The State of PC Audio
jonesy writes "The Tech Report has put together a pretty decent six-card sound round-up that covers the most popular audio controller chips around. DACs, ADCs, DSPs, and the other important acroymns are explained. One interesting revelation: Creative's Audigy card doesn't do 24-bit/96KHz sound, despite Creative's claims. Gaming benchmarks are provided, and the authors even take a crack at the subjective side of audio, although they seem aware of the difficulties in doing so."
I was just thinking about the limits of sound cards the other day. What features are still in demand from them, considering they can play damn near any sound that we can possibly hear already, and do it directionally? Seems to me that there's really not much more to squeeze out of them, other than maybe making them faster for more advanced applications and cramming them full of memory so any of them can be used professionally. More speaker jacks might be nice, so you can have some really surround sound.
I use a sound blaster 16 on machine. It cost 12. Its grand , plays mp3's ... and games...
Am I the only one who doesn't have an orchestra in the back of my pc , or are most people on this type of older card ?
Cruise TT
What I'm intrested in is 16-bit, 48kHZ sound out ether a Parallel Port or PCMCIA card (for soundless laptops). So far, the only thing you have is 8-bit sound that the computer itself has to make sure it runs at the right speed. I'd like to offload that a bit.
--
# Canmephians for a better Linux Kernel
$Stalag99{"URL"}="http://stalag99.net";
My computer goes "BEEP" when I hit Ctrl-g. What else do I need?
omg, evreyuone knows teh REAL BEST sound cards r the ones that overcl0kc teh BERST.
like, i oc'd my mediavision proaduiuospectrum16 (don't laff its teh BEST) and now i can hear sounds b 4 they happen!
like, omg. this guy was gonan shoot me with rocket launcher but i heard it before hje shooted then i was gonna shoot him first but tehn i heared my shotgun fire b 4 i even press the button!!1!!
HE WAS DEADRESTATED B 4 I EVEN SHOOTED HIM!
I R TEH S0 GLAD I READED THIS REVIEWS.
MY SHOTGUN SOUNDS SO CLEAN AND CRISP AND CLEAR AND BECAUSE I R TEH AUDIOPHILz0RZ I KNOW IT SOUNDS AS BEST AS REALISTIC YES IS.
seriously, sound card reviews like this are a crock, providing little information above the specifications provided by the manufacturers themselves. as evidenced by the previous story about the s00per c00l vacuum t00b sound card, people can't be fooled into thinking these things will provide "audiophilez0rz" quality.
Is good speakers. You can't have one without the other. So what if your Sound Card is 100% buzzword compliant with 128bit 9GHz output, if your 2 cents piezo buzzer is connected to it the its a waste of space. Equally if you are playing Quake 3 and just want surround sound then there isn't much point in the card without the speakers in the right places.
For most people a basic card will, shock horror, do everything they want these days when allied to a decent set of speakers. So much of this is upgrade hype driven rather than actually reality. I've had a creative 5:1 set up for a few years now and why should I upgrade ? I listen to music mostly on the train and at work from my laptop on headphones so what would it get me. And what extra would I _really_ get for a 3D game ? Rather than marketing hype.
Get good speakers, get an okay sound card and buy lots of RAM.
If you want a top of the range sound system, buy seperates don't buy a PC.
An Eye for an Eye will make the whole world blind - Gandhi
Besides the obvious fact that they often use a bit of slight of hand in what features they support (ie 96KHz), every couple years they introduce their new sound card, and promise that this won't ever have to be upgraded again. I think they first did it with the AWE64, but then two years later, BOOM, Live!, and two years later, BOOM, Audigy. Each one they claim is upgradeable via Liveware. But these updates NEVER come.
I think I should've just stuck with my solid SB 16.
I just bought a msi kt3u and I was wondering if anyone knew where to get the s-bracket?
An Education is the Font of All Liberty
The only drawback in my mind is you cannot use the USB interface for 24/96 audio. That, and some issues like jitter and delay, should be solved by the next generation of IEEE-1394 interfaces.
This article neglected two important players in the PC Audio scene. Where is the nForce 420D and the Hercules Game Theater XP? Why were they not included in the roundup? Instead, we got reviews of a bunch of low end cards and high-end Phillips and Creative cards. I think the nForce and Game Theater would have been worthy competition.
I finally had to replace my old SoundBlaster AWE32 recently because I got a new processor and motherboard which had no ISA slots. If it weren't for that, I'd still be using that AWE32.
I still run an AMD K6-450 for a single reason: it's got 3 ISA slots that I can put my dual-port joystick board, my Advanced Gravis Ultrasound MAX and my SoundBlaster AWE32 in. Those 2 sound boards kick this living [explative] out of everything else I've heard in the (affordable) PC sound dept. And, the AWE32 has 8 megs of RAM for something useable: putting sound samples into for MIDI/MOD playback.
Sure, I don't get 18bit, 48KHz playback (which, I'll admit, may be nice for homestudio stuff) but all my 16bit, 44.1KHz stuff (practically everything, since that's what CDs are) sounds fantastic. Nice CODEC chips, nice analog output stages, descrete amps, etc. And, yes, I do listen to it through something worthy of playing back good sound.
I'd like somebody who has a good A/B comparison rig, good ears and a newer whiz-bang audio card to campare it to a GUS or AWE32 and tell me if they agree. Have these newer everything-on-one-piece-of-silicon cards caught up in sound quality? Keep in mind, also, that I payed only $35 for both of these cards (having dated hardware is nice on the wallet :).
-Josh
Need better sound out of a laptop? Lots of them do have cheap soundcards. Try USB audio "boxes". Here are a couple from amazon:
Yamaha AP-U70 CAVIT External Audio.... $350 or so. Include a built in amplifier.
or
Creative Labs Sound Blaster Extigy Sound..., for about $134.
I don't know about Linux support, but they will makes a Windows Laptop rock.
-Pete
Soccer Goal Plans
I'll repost (most of) the comment I put on TR this morning. TR's comments don't get much feedback usually, and I'd like to get responses/pointers on the points I bring up.
The review is completely oriented toward gaming though, with only a slight nod toward music listening or DVDs (and the cards reviewed aren't particularly good toward those). With that in mind, the review isn't all that bad. And it brings up several nasty issues with Creative Labs - their drivers continue to suck, they seriously overdo reverb in EAX (uh, guys... you wrote the standard... why can't you do it right?), bloatware on a massive scale, and some of the comments indicate possible spyware.
Anyway, my original comment is now below, sans a few bits that pertained only to over there.
Sigh... well, not what I was hoping for, but still a decent review (as soundcard comparisons go at least). Should've marked this as a review for gamers though - for those looking to build a Home Theater PC it's reviewing the wrong cards (the M-Audio 6-channel is pretty much the standard nowadays, but there are competitors).
It would've been nice to get a few motherboard chipset reviews in with the cards. I know, you were already in review hell. But to whomever is going to try this next, do include a review of the cheapo AC97 codecs, the upgraded ones (such as CT5880), nForce, and such.
There are also sampling/playback issues - CL has long had an issue with automagically resampling from 44.1 KHz to 48 KHz. This introduces errors during playback. Testing to see which cards do this (on either record or playback) would've been nice.
Testing to see if the connectors provided are actually standard conforming would've been nice too. The digital output jack on the SB Live series, for instance, conforms to no standard known to man. It will work with most Dolby Digital decoders, but not all of them - it runs the voltage far, far, FAR too high, has absolutely no noise protection, and a few other issues. CL deciding to label their IEEE1394 connector as a "SB1394" makes me suspicious of it as well.
Books, books, manuals, workshops (your local music store often holds workshops and seminars as a means of generating sales, but its a great way to get your foot in the door and see what these things are for and what they do.)
.. I've got a very good impression of their sales support.
I learned most of my knowledge from experimenting and toying around, but I've always been more on the MIDI/Synth side than recording what instruments I play live and doing multitrack audio sessions, so it may have been somewhat easier for me than most traditional musicians.
www.sonicstate.com is a good place chalk full of reviews (the hardest part of home studio recording is getting past the hype and knowing what you need to buy to accomplish your goals), and www.harmony-central.com has a very active classifieds section. www.sweetwatersound.com staff, IMHO, have always been very good at taking time to help the customer in order to generate sales
"Old man yells at systemd"
Yeah. If you are going to do anything music-related, invest in *studio monitors* .. the Yorkville YM-1s are what I have. A very unbiased sound, set me back about 250$ american, and easily the most important part of my setup after the signal is mixed down and goes out my audio card (Echo MIA).
"Old man yells at systemd"
The problem I see with PC audio is not the quality of the cards but getting people to hook up decent speakers and listening to them. People seem to reserve their best amps and speakers for the living room and car. Already in 1991 the Sega Genesis and SNES were putting out better sound than cheap TV speakers could reproduce. DVD consoles at least may get hooked to home speakers reserved for movies, and incidentally also use it for games. MP3s have got a lot more people to listen to their PCs, but that's just a drop of the sound today's PCs and consoles can put out.
One way I see of getting people to get better sound out of their PCs and consoles is headphones. For just $20 the Koss KTX-PRO (also called the Optimus Titanium 35 Pro at Radio Shack) headphones will get you better sound than hundreds, if not thousands of dollars of amps and speakers. As for the surround effect, the Dolby Headphone algorithm supposedly simulates it with DVDs made for 5.1 speakers. It's nice that most PCs have headphone jacks; I wish consoles would as well. Many console games, and PC games as well, I would assume, have great soundtracks that never get heard.
sorry but the review at Here at pcavtech is dead on.. tests done with audio calibration and testing hardware to give real numbers and real information not this "pull something out of our butt" review.
any review on audio equipment that doesnt use real testing is pure crap and needs to be loudly labelled as such.
Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
I have a Monster 3D sound card based on the Vortex 2 chipset. I payed $30 for it a few years ago and I have been well pleased with it. I use it for playing MP3s to my stereo all the time and it sounds great. I really enjoy using the Vortex setting in games like Descent 3. It adds some nice 3D effects to the game.
Most Audigy users that have looked at any of the sound card forums out there have already discovered their claims are false.
Creative seems to have really dropped the ball with the Audigy line. A look at any audio forums (Creative's own even) will show a large contingent of unhappy customers. Audiophiles that think it's a piece of crap sound-wise, gamers who are pissed off with its driver performance. Calls for people to return their Audigies and get a Game Theatre or Santa Cruz.
Compatibility issues with different hardware configurations, WinXP, etc.. are also popping up. The biggest seems to be an issue where the EEPROM on the card gets scrambled, disabling the rear speakers, and causing the card to be recognized as EMU10K instead of an Audigy, thereby making proper software/driver upgrades impossible for it. The only known solution for this so far is to get the card replaced and hope the new one doesn't get FUBAR as well. There are a lot of very annoyed Audigy owners out there.
- In hell, treason is the work of angels.
not.
If you have $9800.00 each legacy audio studio monitors they will sound like crap if you have a crappy amp and crappy source. speakers are the 3rd most important. AMP with very low THD and clean transients is the number one most important component of an audio system. anyone who says otherwise is faking it. Second your audio source has to be clean and handle the dynamic range. and finally the speakers.
a pair of 100 watt speakers on a 5000 watt amp will sound better and last longer than a pair of 500watt speakers on a 10 watt amp.
in fact I can blow any set of speakers on this planet with a 10 watt amp. (DC clipping is NOT your friend)
So if you want really good audio out of your computer, have your soundcard drive a nice amp and then some decent speakers.
Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
Integrated Sound...
...sounds pretty good to me [16-bit].
And 500mhz Pentium II chips seem fast to lots of people. But Slashdot is more aimed at the computer enthusiast. Many sound cards are used for converting analog to digital, so that's a function that is important to many. The CPU usage is an issue for many gamers and much built-in sound hardware is pretty brutal on CPU usage. Still other people hook their computer to their stereo systems and "good enough" isn't.
On April 5th, Philippe Ramelet wrote an article about the Extigy's alleged 24-bit, 96kHz capabilities at Tom's Hardware Guide. Here's the debunking part.
We reserve the right to serve refuse to anyone. -management
You want quality audio in a PC? Go get a card made by these people, these people, these people, these people, these people, or these people. Then we'll talk.
I thank my lucky stars that I don't have "golden ears". 128k MP3 sounds fine to me. If I need music to sound better than that, I'll perform it.
God save me from a discerning ear...it'd be way too expensive.
Why yes, I AM a rocket scientist!
I've got the origional SB Live! and a pair of crappy multimedia speakers with subwoofer and I'm perfectly happy with it. I like the 3d positioning for games, but otherwise I don't do anything with it that I couldn't do just as well with an SB16. It was the card I put into the first box I built myself, and I paid way too much for it. Now you could get it and the speakers for about $30. I plan to keep using it until they stop making mobos with PCI slots, though onboard audio with 3d positioning could convince me to abandon it.
I'm a musician, also, and my hearing is good enough that I find mp3s irritating. When I want good sound, well, that's why I own a Bose Wavestation and over 200 CDs.
Under capitalism man exploits man. Under communism it's the other way around.
I would only recommend this to musicians or engineers though, since it's a bit of overkill for RTCW.
Recording? Wow! It is absolutely quiet.
Get Pro Tools free from Digidesign. Musicians like Beck, Bjork and Aerosmith use it. Of course, they use the version that's tens of thousands of dollars. Basically, the difference is the more money you spend, the more hardware (and thereby processing power) you get.
The best way to learn is to just start doing it. If you have a sound card and Pro Tools free, you should be able to just start laying down tracks with the mic that came with your computer. Experiment with EQ settings. It's all about training your ear to recognise what sounds good and what doesn't. After you've recorded an album's worth of material, you'll find you're able to make much better sounding songs, though you won't be sure how you got there.
If you don't have a sound card, get one that has at least a stereo input and output. Before you get it, make sure it's supported by whatever software program you're using. If you don't have a firewire port, think about getting one. Firewire is useful in so many ways.
If you want to get some higher fidelity, you'll need to get a decent mic. Pick up a Shure SM57 if you're recording mostly instruments or 58 if it's mostly vocals ($80-100). These mics are workhorses of the industry and will remain useful even after you become a famous rock star. You might be able to find a XLR -> 1/8" adapter to plug the mic into the back of the computer, but I recommend either buying a cheap mixer and going mic -> mixer -> soundcard, or getting Digidesign's mBox ($450), a firewire-based audio input system. The good thing about the mBox is you get a more robust version of the software along with it.
Pro Tools isn't the only way to go, though I think it's the only way that's free. Kruder & Dorfmeister use Cubase, and Thievery Corporation use Cakewalk. I've heard lots of great things about Cubase, but the Cakewalk seems to be more amateurish. Thievery has a crapload of hardware, and I think Cakewalk is just a small part of their studio.
If you're broke, you can always pirate plug-in's from p2p networks, but audio programmers are generally non-rich really cool people, so if you ever wind up making decent money off of your music, you should buy the software you use frequently.
If you're into programming, check out MAX/MSP. Autechre uses it.
Also, check out Propellerheads Software:
Reason- Berklee is using this to teach recording concepts.
Rebirth- 303, 808, 909. Kicks ass.
For a reference, my stuff was recorded using Pro Tools with the Audiomedia III sound card (it's pretty old), a Neumann TLM103 mic and a Roland xp-60 synth, both going into a mackie 1202 mixer. I'm completely self-taught.
c-hack.com |
I don't trust USB completely. I've had problems with hubs deciding not to supply power, and the bandwidth is too narrow. From what I've heard about USB CD recorders, I'm not alone. For $450, you can get Digidesign's Mbox, which is firewire-based. It samples at up to 24-bit/48khz, has focusrite mic pre-amps with phantom power, and most importantly, zero latency. It also comes with Pro Tools audio recording/editing software. No, I don't work for them, I've just been drooling over this thing lately. The idea of having a decent home studio with one of these and a laptop...
c-hack.com |
I love Day of Defeat. I'm married and have kids so usually get to play it at night after they're all in bed, so I seldom get to crank things up.
:)
Even if I did, my ears are so messed up from '80s metal concerts, I probably wouldn't know the difference between 16bit vs 24bit.
But the audigy gave me two things that I wanted/needed. The first is the 4+ speakers. So now when I get killed again and again, I know which way it came from
The other is the onboard 1394. I stupidly bought a proprietary IntroDV board, which the company wanted to charge me to get the 2000 version of the drivers. Plus it took up it's own slot and could only connect to dv cams. Now I have an OHCI standards based port on the same PCI slot as another card that can hook up to anything.
Oh yeah...and it was dirt cheap too for all that.
Unfortunately, a lot of closed drivers are a problems for specific chipsets in Linux. I hope for a time soon that Cirrus releases some drivers or data on proper 4 channel support of the CS4630 DSP that is used in the Santa Cruz. Until then, split 2 channel is the best that you can get.
The actual quality of the audio seems to be a little lower in Linux on this card (at least to my ears). It is probably a driver issue. It isn't very well optimized, by Cirrus seems content with leaving it that way.
And keeps getting /.ed every 5 minutes after that.
Maybe they are using their server to run some sound "benchmarks".
:)
If anybody is considering buying an Audigy because of the remote, think again. I don't think the article made any mention of the remote (which I believe is only available in the Platinum or better) , but it is just about worthless if used in conjunction with anything else that uses a remote.
I had set up a small tower in my living room, complete with wireless keyboard/mouse and an ATI All-in-wonder, and I upgraded from the SB Live to the Audigy for several reasons- better inputs/outputs mounted on the front were important, but the remote control was extremely important. After all, if I could use this remote to control winamp and other programs (possibly including the ATI TV app), I wouldn't need the keyboard or mouse 90% of the time.
Unfortunately, every other remote I have interfered with the audigy - I couldn't use the DVD player, TV, stereo, or even the PS2 remote without royally pissing off the Audigy Remote app (even when pointing the remotes in the opposite direction, it still picked up signals far more often than the devices that were supposed to get the signal). Ironically, the Audigy remote caused the least amount of response from the Audigy, and no problems with the rest of the entertainment center. And the Audigy Remote app is such a horribly bloated app that I had to disable it entirely (which is almost as difficult to do as disabling RealPlayer or removing all the AOL icons).
I like the sound that comes out of the card, I like the 1/4" input jacks (which lets you plug a guitar directly in the front, for example), and I like the fact that there are so many controls and inputs that are mounted on the front (with the platinum version). But the remote was such a disappointment; don't buy this card for that feature - you may get better results, but don't raise your hopes.
I really hate signatures, but go to my website.
There is no such thing as a Creative Labs compatible soundcard anymore. Windows sound devices use directsound and wav output as the primary APIs, and have no requirement for "Soundblaster compatibility" that the old DOS soundcards needed. The only exception is through EAX in games, which is a pretty open standard now anyway.
It is USB. I could've sworn it was firewire. I wonder how they get the zero latency with USB. Oh well. Yeah, it still looks cool, and I still want one, just a little less now.
c-hack.com |
Creative Labs (NASD: CREAF) down 2% on the 'news'
stop lying boys!
MARIJUANA, SHROOMS, X: ONLINE?! - E
I'd appreciate a greater discussion of your setup. Despam my email address to contact me.
You could've hired me.
pretty straightforward - dynamic range = 6*NB.
rationale - each bit is a factor of 2 in voltage, factor of 4 in power. each factor of 2 in power is 3dB. in other words dB=20*log(V) (log base 10).
plug in either 2^16 or 2^24 and this gives the oft-quoted 96 dB for 16 bit ("cd quality") audio, 144dB for 24 bit. (not exact numbers, but close enough)
So, it turns out that your result is actually pretty close, even if your math is wrong. True state-of-the-art converters can get 19-20 bits out of a signal. Check out either the LynxTwo or the new EgoSys 192x for cards that are pushing this. The LynxTwo measures at 115+ dB, or about 19 bits.
Then let it suck no more!
M-Audio Delta 44/66 or M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 coupled with a set of Project Studio 8 or 10 pro monitors. (Or any other decent monitor)
Actually there are a lot of alternatves, but as usual. Stuff that doesn't suck usually costs a little bit more and isn't sold at CompUSA.
Contrary to popular belief, coding is not all free blow-jobs and beer. Those things cost MONEY!
Um, the testers seemed reasonably competent technically, but I have to point out that judging a card's audophile capabilities by playing classical MP3 is not the best way to do it. Playing the original uncompressed music, whether from the hard drive or (preferrably), directly from the original CD is always the best method. MP3s will always sound different than the original source music because like JPEG, it's a lossy compression. Take a classical CD with some demanding music, make MP3's from it, take and burn those MP3's to another audio CD and compare the two in a standard audiophile CD player in your home stereo and you'll easily hear the difference between the original and the copy, especially with a good violin piece. Yeah, it's nitpicking, but anyone claiming to do a "listening test" and using MP3 playback as the last word in audio quality is no audiophile, in my opinion. Just my two cents.
I'll be the first to agree that USB is a nasty hack, but there aren't a lot of 1394-connected audio devices, and certainly not any I can afford. The Edirol unit is nice though, because it can operate alone without the computer connected.
[laughing] I also still have my original ISA SB16, from my original 486; it's now 8 years old. It worked fine in the 486 and the P90 and had pretty good sound for its day, but it really doesn't like the P3-550 very much -- sounds like crap (gritty, and I can't get the R/L volume balanced no matter what I try). I wonder if it simply can't keep up with the higher system speed or something.
:)
I added it to the P3 because its SBLive could not be induced to work in DOS (its DOS emulator crap hosed Win98, and didn't work anyway, so I had to disable it in hardware profile). And I need a sound card that 100% works in DOS.
[changes subject line] Hey, does anyone know which pretty-good reasonably current sound cards still work in *pure DOS*? None of the reviews I've seen over the past 3-4 years have touched on this. But it's a *must* for those of us who play older games.
~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
When I burned my first couple of cd's I was careful not to use the machine (laptop, PIII 750) for fear of swamping the USB's bandwidth... I've got a USB keyboard, USB mouse, USB compact flash reader and a USB cable for my PDA.
However, I'm happy to report, everything seems to work just fine and dandy when using other USB devices. Granted, I haven't tried using everything at the exact same time... but, I'm pleasantly surprised by the performance.
Maybe tonight I'll try my hardest at making a coaster... </evilgrin>
Anyway, I've also been thinking about getting a USB sound device... either the Stereo-Link or Extigy. I like the Extigy because it's got a lot of "stuff" (sparing the details). But, I also like the Stereo-Link because it's not Creative's product. I haven't quite decided, yet... here are some reviews:
...and if you want to bench your internal pc speaker, install vi .
{{.sig}}
Reviews: 1, 2, 3.
I feel like a guru over here because I built an HTPC in August of 2000, which makes me feel like I'm two years ahead of the curve ;-)
I'm using a Realmagic Hollywood Plus DVD decoder card from (www.sigmadesigns.com) in my PC. It has outputs for S-video and coax digital out, which I send to my Sony Wega and the ADS-2000 decoder which comes with my Midiland S4 8200 5.1 surround speakers (www.midiland.com). This is a dedicated DVD setup.
For PC audio, I have a SB Live Platinum, of which I use the headphone jack 90% of the time, and the coax S/PDIF out for when I want to play a game with Dolby Digital sound. If I want to play a EAX or non DD game, I use the analog ouputs on the back of the SB Live connected to the ADS-2000 decoder (it allows for simultaneous digital and analog connections which can be switched with the included remote control).
I'm thinking of upgrading to the SB Audigy Platinum and the new Realmagic Xcard, which has component video ouputs and hardware Divx decoding.
They use higher quality soundcards, or usb/firewire boxes. Mark of the Unicorn has a number of products that work on Macintosh machines. (as well as ms. windows). Most consumer digital audio gear-- cd players, minidisc, or dvd players, make use of the spdif coaxial or fibre port. This is also commonly found on pc soundcards, but does not come with macs. Edirol has several USB to s/pdif converters that work with mac, but I have no idea if Apple's DVD player will stream the required dts or ac3 data correctly.
Further digging also reveals that it only works with MacOS. That probably rules out 99.9% of the people here (and before you flame me for saying that, my Quadra 610 doesn't speak USB anyway).
20 January 2017: the End of an Error.
I think that it made it to 550mhz in the Slot 1 version and at least 600mhz in the mobile version. I know that my PII made it to more than 500mhz -- despite what the label on the box said. ;-)
After buying a Hoontech card that uses the ymf754 chipset, and getting burned by the fact that their drivers only support a very small subset of features of the card under Windows XP, I would highly recommend that consumers avoid Yamaha soundcards till they learn to respect their customers.
That's a great link you posted. Even better, it does appear at least 1 is supported under Linux. The ALSA Project's Soundcard Matrix lists support for the Midiman Delta 66, and there's also OSS/Linux beta support for the LynxONE (though binary non-free).
Of course, they'll both set you back 400-500 bucks... Fortunately, the still well-performing Turtle Beach cards have long enjoyed good Linux support.
Well durn. I bought a mediocre card, according to this article, the Creative Live!
Oh well, at least when I installed RedHat 7.2 it was automatically configured and working with no config file fiddling from me (unlike in Windows where I had to download a driver and reboot multiple times). This in comparison to my old Turtle Beach Monterrey card where I had to tweak it just to get it to work.
Anyway, the Live! sounds good and gives decent positional feedback.
Codifex Maximus ~ In search of... a shorter sig.
According to Creative's promotional material, the Audigy supports 24bit 96khz output, but only digitally; presumably this is because it doesn't have a high-rate DAC onboard.
However, promotional materials claim that the Digital Entertainment version of the Audigy, a higher-end version released for the Asian market, does have a 24bit 96khz capable DAC onboard. Additionally, the "Audigy drive" breakout boxes included with the Platinum and Platinum EX both have 24/96 DACs; 24/96 audio should play properly through them.
But, a grain of salt:
Creative's promotional materials and product specs are fairly... creative. =)
My Creative Labs CD-R Blaster 8432 (an OEM ATAPI Plextor Plexwriter 8432) is the last CL product I'm ever going to buy (well, at retail prices anyway, second-hand ebaying aside). The drive itself performs very well in terms of burn data error rates. However, it has performance problems which have occasionally led to underrunning. The buffer is half the size of the Plexwriter's (2mb instead of 4mb) -- but I knew that when I bought it. And, more importantly, like its equivalent ATAPI Plexwriter cousin, the drive doesn't support DMA properly, even though it claims in four seperate places on the box that it does. It even lists UDMA support as a system requirement. Creative tech support personnel are generally clueless, or seem to feel that giving out any product information will only encourage warranty returns or something. But from what I've been able to determine on the net, there Creative has OEMed at least 3 different drive models from Plextor, Panasonic, and Samsung, under the "CD-RW Blaster 8432" name. And the Samsung doesn't support UDMA either.
So you don't bother to hook up your stereo to your TV to watch movies and you haven't noticed a difference in PC sound since 1995? Is this because the technology of sound hasn't progressed in the last 7 years or because you Don't Really Care about good sound?
I just picked me up the lower-end Waveterminal 192L for $139. It only has 96/24 input but true 192/24bit output. This thing is going to rock for home-theater with DVD-A (rumour has it both WinDVD and PowerDVD will be decoding DVD-A and DTS 96/24 in the near future).
2 l. html
l
http://egosys.net/1-pro/eng/product/wt192l/wt19
The more expensive Waverterminal 192X with both 192/24 in/out can be had at Tracertek for under $200.
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tracertek/index.htm
Good sound? Forget this worthless article for 14-year old 31337 gam3rz. Here's what you do:
/dev/dsp to a SP/DIF interface. Price around $25 for one that's C-Media 8738 based. Using hacks you can also dump raw AC3 frames over the digital out for watching DVD's.
1.) Get a cheap digital out card that does not resample or process the signal in any way. Just plain and simple 16-bit, 44.1Khz. is all you need. No bells and whistles--Just a way to get from
2.) Using a coaxial (not optical) cable, connect your digital-out card to a quality outboard DAC. You can get a module on Ebay that does both Dolby Digital and plain old stereo for less than $200.
3.) Connect the DAC to the best amp / speakers you can afford / build. Price variable.
The true audiophiles will also replace the quartz crystal on the soundcard with a low-jitter clock circuit (homemade or LCaudio) and upgrade the op-amps in the outboard DAC to something like a Nat.Semi. LM6172.
So there you have it folks. Studio quality audio for about what you'd pay retail for one of those silly Audigy cards that'll be "obsolete" in another 6 months.
In fact, your analogy is pretty bad, because 19" monitor at 1600x1200 with 16.7 million colors is not resolute enough and lacks the color depth of human vision. You can STILL see individual pixels, and 8 bits is not enough order of magnitude for each channel (the eye can perceive a 1:1000 contrast _difference_, so 10 bits [11 for green] for each component would be the minimum)
Black holes are where the Matrix raised SIGFPE
It's possible on Linux (Ogle, OMS), it's possible on Windows 98-- it's even theoretically possible on macs. AC3 streaming is a fairly simple patch-- but not all players implement it. All I wanted was info on whether Apple's DVD player worked-- not an advertisement for billg's pride and joy