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Keeping Your Apartment Cool in the Summer Time?

uvince asks: "Sure, the air is on all day at work, but when you are at home and it warms up (as the west coast is now) what do you do when a fan just won't cut it? Do you install a swamp cooler, set out a standing air conditioner, or install some air conditioner that fits in the window. How can I keep my apartment, or at least my bedroom cool? Anyone have any creative, green ideas?"

182 comments

  1. Go Naked by BroadbandBradley · · Score: 1

    or get an apartment with AC.

    1. Re:Go Naked by CowboyMeal · · Score: 5, Funny

      or get an apartment with AC.

      Naw, AC is too much of a troll. Can you imagine living with him? Of course the frost piss will cool things down somewhat.

      --
      Your credit card information wants to be free.
    2. Re:Go Naked by Original+AIDS+Monkey · · Score: 0, Funny

      The "green" solution is clearly to suffer in the heat and die of heat stroke or heat exhaustion, thereby lowering the world's population and increasing "sustainability".

      --


      =======
      P.S. Bite! You've been bitten by the Original AIDS Monkey! You have AIDS now!
    3. Re:Go Naked by nocomment · · Score: 1

      NO WAY!!! use a turbine engine!

      --
      /* oops I accidentally made a comment, sorry */
      /* http://allyourbasearebelongto.us */
    4. Re:Go Naked by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hey, that hurts you insensitive clod!

  2. Ask Slashdot by LordLucless · · Score: 1, Funny

    Ask Slashdot: Why do we have to have a hyperlink on the word air?

    --
    Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean there isn't an invisible demon about to eat your face
  3. suggestion: by larry+bagina · · Score: 3, Funny

    turn off your fucking computer!

    --
    Do you even lift?

    These aren't the 'roids you're looking for.

  4. Evaporative cooling? by Smidge204 · · Score: 5, Interesting

    If humidity is really low in your area (which, if you live on the coast, is probably NOT the case!) A simple evaporative cooler can run with a supply of water and very little (or possibly no) electricity.

    The idea is that water has to absorb heat form it's surroundings when it evaporates, like sweat absorbs heat from the body. But if there's no other source of heat, it will absorb it from the air. The water doesn't even need to be all that cold, though cold water will obviously absorb more heat.

    All you need is some way to expose the water to air. One suggestion would be to build an "evaporator" out of brown corregated carboard, use a small pump to trickle water over it and a small fan to draw air through it.

    If you can build a tall "stack" and place the evaporator at the top, you can take advantage of natural convection to eliminate the fan. (Cold, denser air drops down stack, pulling in more air through the evaporator)

    If you can get the materials just right, and/or have a pressurized source of water (house main), you can take advantage of capillary action/mains pressure to eliminate the pump.

    Silent and green. Too bad it doesn't work in humid regions!
    =Smidge=

    1. Re:Evaporative cooling? by Smidge204 · · Score: 1

      Okay, I'm an idiot... the article already mentioned "swamp coolers". Oh well, now you can build your own :)
      =Smidge=

    2. Re:Evaporative cooling? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Evaporative cooling works well for a little while, but the humidity may eventually build up (especially in a small room, or a high-humidity climate) and make the heat worse. You probably wouldn't want to run an evaporator all day.

      Apart from air conditioning, having a dehumidifier and a fan in the room seems to work best if you don't mind the noise. Get a large fan, and put it behind you so it won't be blowing into your eyes all day.

    3. Re:Evaporative cooling? by zackbar · · Score: 1

      In an older place I lived, I ran a dehumidifier and a window air conditioner. It worked reasonably well.

      The dehumifier dried the air, which helped the window unit work better.

      It's easier to cool warmer dry air than warm humid air, since part of the work of the a/c unit is removing the water.

    4. Re:Evaporative cooling? by ecloud · · Score: 2, Insightful

      But, the dehumidifier works on the same principle doesn't it? AFAIK it's basically an air conditioner, except the air also goes over the condenser on the way out (rather than having the condenser mounted outside as with a window AC), so that it doesn't end up any cooler, just drier. I submit that having two compressors doing one job is less efficient than just letting the window AC work harder. (Unless you were exceeding its capacity, and this extra "help" from the dehumidifier got you better performance)

    5. Re:Evaporative cooling? by Jucius+Maximus · · Score: 2, Informative
      " If humidity is really low in your area (which, if you live on the coast, is probably NOT the case!) A simple evaporative cooler can run with a supply of water and very little (or possibly no) electricity."

      I used something like this once for the purpose of keeping the room at a decent humidity, because a place I was renting had friggin' dry air. As a side effect, it did cool down the room quite a lot. (Alas, it was the winter and an undesired side effect.)

      I bought one of these 'cool air humidifiers' for CDN$50 at Future Shop (which is now owned by Worst Buy.) These are not to be mistaken for 'warm air humidifiers'. There are tons of models out there from various companies. I suggest you check out your nearest 'home improvement' type store (building box, home depot, etc.) and see their selection.

      The only downside about them is that you have to clean them once a week which involved vinegar and a small amount of bleach. If you're not careful, you can easily leak water over everything during cleaning. Also, you've got to get a new filter once or twice a year. More often if you have hard water. And yes, it does work fine with hard water.

      For your situation, I'd suggest you get one, and leave it running on 'low' most of the time. The higher settings are kind of noisy.

    6. Re:Evaporative cooling? by calidoscope · · Score: 1
      I'll beg to disagree, having a separate dehumidifier may be more effiecient than having the air conditioner do all the work.


      The issue is that dehumidification requires a fixed amount of heat to be removed from the air - with a dehumidifier, the temperature difference at which this heat is being removed is smaller than the air conditioner (using the already cooled air). Since the air conditioner is not dehumidifying, you can run more air past the evaporator coils, thus improving the efficiency of the air conditioner.


      Also with drier air, you may be comfortable with a higher room air temperature.

      --
      A Shadeless room is a brighter room.
    7. Re:Evaporative cooling? by zackbar · · Score: 1

      Just a small correction: a dehumidifier actually warms up the air in the process. It doesn't remove heat from the air, just water. (Unless you have the warm air blowing outside, in which case you have an air conditioner.)

    8. Re:Evaporative cooling? by calidoscope · · Score: 1
      Point taken.

      My original point is that heat had to be taken out of the air in order to get the water vapor (humidity) to condense. The reject heat can then be used to reheat the air (and will be warmer than the ambient air temp). This is related to why you get such good convection cells going in thunderclouds.

      --
      A Shadeless room is a brighter room.
    9. Re:Evaporative cooling? by EABinGA · · Score: 1

      Allow me to add to this:

      A dehumidifier removes moisture from the air. Moisture in air is also heat (latent heat). Even though it does not lower the temperature in the room, it still removes this latent heat.

      Now the window AC not only also removes moisture from the air like a dehumidifier (see the condensate dripping out of the unit?), it also lowers the temperature of the air (sensible heat)

      Bottom line: Using a dehumidifier and an AC at the same time only makes sense if the air is very humid and the capacity of the AC isnt enough to make you comfortable.

      On the other hand, having an AC that is WAY to large will actually increase the humidity in the room, because it cooled the air so fast, that it didnt run long enough to condense much moisture out of the air. The result can be the moisture condensing on surfaces in the room (bad, very bad) and you feel clammy becuase sweating doesnt help either, because the relative humidity in the room is close to 100%.

    10. Re:Evaporative cooling? by zackbar · · Score: 1

      I dunno. You are likely right.

      But if the window A/C unit is dripping tons of water, that probably means that the humidity of the room is pretty high.

      In my area, (Chicago suburbs), the humidity is usually high when it's warm enough to need a/c. Having a dehumidifier running helps.

      In places such as Arizona, a dehumidifier would be likely useless when trying to cool the house.

    11. Re:Evaporative cooling? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Have you ever felt the heated air coming out of a dehumidifier? I ran one while I was living next to a swamp. It was always blowing hot air.

    12. Re:Evaporative cooling? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Holy shit! I think I just had an orgasm. Could you explain that again?!

      A little faster this time, tho...

  5. take a shower before bedtime by larry+bagina · · Score: 5, Funny

    preferably with a hot chick who will invite you over to spend the night at her (air-conditioned) apartment!

    --
    Do you even lift?

    These aren't the 'roids you're looking for.

    1. Re:take a shower before bedtime by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

      Yeah, but he posts simplistic questions to /. which means the only "chick" he's going to get is one he can buy in the supermarket - which might be a good thing since he can buy them frozen. That should keep him cool. Sleep with a few pounds of frozen chicken.

    2. Re:take a shower before bedtime by zonix · · Score: 1
      preferably with a hot chick who will invite you over to spend the night at her (air-conditioned) apartment!

      Better make that a cool chick? :-)

      z
      --
      What would an EWOULDBLOCK block, if an EWOULDBLOCK could block would? -- me
  6. Keeping cool by smeagols_ghost · · Score: 2, Informative

    swampies can cause fungal growth if you dont clean offen, (high temp + humidity)

    1. Re:Keeping cool by larry+bagina · · Score: 1

      yet another reason why linux users should bathe monthly.

      --
      Do you even lift?

      These aren't the 'roids you're looking for.

    2. Re: Keeping cool by Black+Parrot · · Score: 1


      > Turn off computers, lights, monitors and TVs when they're not being used. Yes, it will ruin your uptime, but most computers from the past few years dissipate 30-90 watts of heat. CRTs and TVs also generate a lot of heat. I had a room that I kept 10 degrees F warmer in winter just by leaving the computers (P3-866 and Athlon 1800+) and their monitors on all night.

      And if you can't turn your computer(s) off for some reason, be sure you've got DPMS set to power off the monitor(s) when you get distracted and forget to hit the switch.

      On UNIX it's easy as

      xset dpms 600 1200 1800
      for progressively cutting back on 10 minute intervals. Use xset q to make sure your favorite desktop isn't disabling it.

      And lose the screensavers. They burn lots of CPU time and keep your OS from halting the processor as often as it would otherwise.

      --
      Sheesh, evil *and* a jerk. -- Jade
    3. Re:Keeping cool by lpq · · Score: 1

      > The halogen torches stay off all summer.
      ---

      They have dimmable florescent torches, now, ya know.

      Also, if you want to optimize your lighting -- go for white, semi-gloss or similar paint. White ceilings -> less wattage light needed. Same for walls and furniture, but everything pure white is hard to keep clean and can be pretty boring, but no reason why not to have, maybe, white perlescent ceilings in every room...we went from 'acoustic white' (an off white) to pure white -- made a noticable difference in light levels.

  7. Breath mints by Pall+Agamemnides · · Score: 5, Funny

    I've seen ads on TV for breath mints that apparently turn everything in their vicinity to ice. I'm not sure I understand the science behind this phenomenon, but maybe with a little experimentation you might be able to harness this strange power for your own needs.

    Good luck!

    1. Re:Breath mints by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      i've seen ads on tv that shows beer having the same effect, as well. Unfortunately, beer has the side effect of hot women in bikinis wanting to party with you, so the breath mints are probably a better idea.

    2. Re:Breath mints by mooniejohnson · · Score: 1

      Whoever the hell modded this one "Interesting" instead of "Funny" needs to read that little line at the bottom of the screen that says "Use of this product does not enable one to freeze the environment."

      Then again, they're probably the same type of person that thinks drinking Miller Lite will make you sexy, fad diets work, and driving a sports car gives you a bigger penis.

      ;-)

      --

      Elmo knows where you live!

    3. Re:Breath mints by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

      No, I've seen these commercials. It won't work -- there is always a female crawling all over one after taking such a product. All that excess body heat will no doubt make the situation worse in the long run. I advise avoid the breath mints, and showers for that matter, in order to avoid the proximity of warm bodies.

    4. Re:Breath mints by cperciva · · Score: 1

      It's called "evaporative cooling".

    5. Re:Breath mints by ecloud · · Score: 1

      Or, harness the sparks from crunching wintergreen, and use the electricity to run your AC...

    6. Re:Breath mints by MooseGuy529 · · Score: 1

      Your post is almost Flamebait but it's sorta funny. Maybe the moderator was kidding--too bad you can't metamoderate a moderation "Funny".

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    7. Re:Breath mints by Squiffy · · Score: 1

      Another problem with breath mints is that sometimes, instead of changing everything to ice, they just take you into an alternate reality where everything is ice. Often you end up falling through big walls of ice, which looks pretty unnerving if not outright painful. However, the guy they show busting up all that ice seems to enjoy it, so who knows.

  8. Some simple answers... by Nathan+Ramella · · Score: 2, Funny
    Some minor environmental changes..
    1. Keep your windows open at night, close them first thing in the morning.
    2. Don't cook with your oven range (Probably not a problem for most slashdot readers)
    3. Keep doors shut to isolate heat transition from room to room
    4. Turn off all PDP-11's in the house.
    If you need an air conditioner and can afford to keep it on all the time, ignore previously mentioned solutions and just keep it cranked.

    However, angels will cry, baby jesus will be vexed, and your PG&E bill will be orbital.

    --
    http://www.remix.net/
    1. Re:Some simple answers... by cpt+kangarooski · · Score: 2, Funny

      Surely you don't mean I have to turn off all of my PDP-11's! Just a few, right?

      --
      -- This and all my posts are in the public domain. I am a lawyer. I am not your lawyer, and this is not legal advice.
    2. Re:Some simple answers... by Parsec · · Score: 1

      Interesting... (1). I use cheap box fans in my windows controlled by X10 timers to cool my house and turn off before it starts to warm up in the morning.

    3. Re:Some simple answers... by pla · · Score: 1

      Keep your windows open at night, close them first thing in the morning.

      On a related note, put a box fan on each of your attic vents, one side blowing in, one blowing out (if one side generally gets more shade, use that as the "in" side). If you only have one attic vent, have it blow out (but this works a lot better with two).

      Leave these on 24/7 (though for the electric-bill paranoid, you *can* shut them off at night and on cloudy/rainy days - But box fans really don't suck that much electricity, and if your attic resembles most I've visited, you won't really want to climb up there twice a day to turn them on and off <G>). But make sure to have them on from dawn until after dusk, because while they'll keep the temperature down, once it rises, they won't do much to lower it.

      This can easily drop your AC use by half, and may make enough difference to not even need the AC at all.

  9. Be kind to your Athlon, for it bears you by airuck · · Score: 2, Informative

    My Athlon workstation noticed the heat before I did. It crashed three times in one day. Wasn't the OS (LeeNux for heaven's sake), couldn't be MY code, must be the hardware. Cracked the box and sure enough dust bunnies camping out all over, including the cooling fins under the cpu fan. All was well after a simple vacuum, but it got me thinking, at 90F, it isn't even hot yet for the Central California Valley.
    I hate using the AC, but most recent architecture around here assumes that you will use it. There is an earth burmed home a short distance from here. Makes perfect sense in this climate.

    --
    First entomology, then virology, and finally bioinformatics systems. Bugs follow me wherever I go.
    1. Re:Be kind to your Athlon, for it bears you by cookd · · Score: 1

      Ditto. I can't run SETI/DNet/GoogleBar background computations during the summer -- my machine starts crashing all the time. Decent heat sink, decent fan, decent air flow as far as I can tell, but once the processor gets over 165C, all bets are off.

      1200 MHz Athlon...

      --
      Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
    2. Re:Be kind to your Athlon, for it bears you by Zarquon · · Score: 1

      I knew Athlons ran hot, but 165C? Maybe 65C or 165F? My old celeron tends to crash at anything above 45C.

      --
      "'Tis great confidence in a friend to tell him your faults, greater to tell him his." --Poor Richard's Almanac
    3. Re:Be kind to your Athlon, for it bears you by cookd · · Score: 1

      Right. Make that 65C.

      --
      Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
    4. Re:Be kind to your Athlon, for it bears you by Telastyn · · Score: 1

      I had the same problem with my (*gulp*) dual athlon machine.

      Solution: open case and a BIG FAN. Also of note, these things work great at keeping people cool too if you don't have AC or a pool to lounge in.

  10. Take off your winter coat! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It might help a bit.

  11. Penguins by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Lots and Lots of Penguins. Things might not stay cool, but hot damn, you'll have an appt full of penguins

    1. Re:Penguins by djcapelis · · Score: 1

      "but hot damn, you'll have an appt full of penguins"

      But he doesn't want that...

      --
      I touch computers in naughty places
  12. I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by danpbrowning · · Score: 3, Informative

    We're purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU Room Air Conditioner for $380. This is why I like it:

    * Highest BTU A/C that runs on 115 volts
    * Isn't a no-name brand
    * Is cheap.

    I researched a *lot* of a/c's and that's what I came up with.

    (If anyone else has found a better one, let me know!)

    --
    Daniel
    1. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by shepd · · Score: 2, Interesting

      >Isn't a no-name brand

      Uhh... Kenmore doesn't actually make anything, eh?

      They're like today's HP. Buy it from a cheap Taiwanese factory and slap a Kenmore sticker on it (okay, okay, not that bad, but a lot of it is actually made by Amana -- at least for fridges).

      What does suck is that sometimes lower quality parts are subbed in. A good friend who once sold power tools told me that if I was to buy Black and Decker (which, in his opinion, sucked anyways) never to buy them at Sears, as the Sears versions often used lesser-rated parts.

      But I might be totally wrong on all this. You should really check into it yourself. :-)

      BTW: I have $5 that says your Kenmore A/C is a Frigidaire OEM. ;-)

      --
      If you could be told what you can see or read, then it follows that you could be told what to say or think - BoC
    2. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by kinema · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Instead of buying a single Kenmore 15,100 BTU Room Air Conditioner for $US380 (39.7 BTUs per dollar) why not buy three Kenmore 5,250 BTU Room Air Conditioners for US$99 each (53.0 BTUs per dollar)? Install each of the three units in different sections of the house or appartment. Some of the benifits of this solution are as follows:

      -> More uniform distribtion of power leads to greater effiency
      -> Slightly lower equipment cost
      -> Multipule "zones" (at night, or whenever you sleep only one "zone" needs to be cooled)
      -> Smaller units are usually quieter leading to a quieter "zone"
      -> A few more BTUs total
      Just a thought.

      --adam


      "Go back to bed America... your government is in control." --Bill Hicks

    3. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by walt-sjc · · Score: 2, Informative

      It's not just a thought, it's the way you should do it. That big-ass AC is going to cycle on and off all the time which is NOT efficient (motors suck tons of juice at startup). For a 12x12 room, a 5000 BTU AC is perfect. That big unit is best for something like a livingroom / dining / kitchen area of at least 20x30.

    4. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by danpbrowning · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the advice, I never thought of that. However,

      * The most important room that we need to cool doesn't have a window that we can install an a/c in. Therefore, I'm installing a *huge* a/c in the nearest window (which is in the next room, the kitchen/living room) and hoping that through some combination of fans or luck it will cool both.

      * that would be ugly (where we're putting the big one now, no one will see it from the outside of the house).

      * I am lazy, and we plan on uninstalling it every winter (2 or 3 would be more to uninstall).

      * We can't buy the normal air conditioners, because we have casement windows. So every installation has to be a real custom job, just to get it in the window, or we have to buy casement window a/c, which cost 2x the normal ones.

      --
      Daniel
    5. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by danpbrowning · · Score: 1

      Thanks for sharing the advice. We have a combined living room / dining / kitchen, just like you said, that is where it is going. Even so, it has 4 fan speeds though... shouldn't we be able to put it on a lower fan speed to keep it from cycling, if it's only a slightly warm day?

      --
      Daniel
    6. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by danpbrowning · · Score: 1

      > BTW: I have $5 that says your Kenmore A/C is a Frigidaire OEM. ;-)

      How funny, you're right! I wonder how I could confirm if any parts have been changed out, say, from the Frigidaire model. I could buy both, then rip them open and see for myself. :-)

      --
      Daniel
    7. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by Jellybob · · Score: 2, Funny

      Please send the $5 to my paypal account under the address jon@jellybob.co.uk

      Thanks :P

    8. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by unitron · · Score: 1

      If you have a heating system that involves a fan and duct pipe running to registers in each room, find out how you can run just the fan (without the heating part) and this will help distribute the cool air from the AC evenly throughout the house or apt or lean-to or beaver mound or whatever.

      --

      I see even classic Slashdot is now pretty much unusable on dial up anymore.

    9. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      We can't buy the normal air conditioners, because we have casement windows

      Most people with this problem put a hole in the wall near the ceiling, avoiding the window altogether. Flash and caulk it right, insulate the surround, get a good support frame and a winter cover, and you don't need to worry about it until the unit dies. Fortunately the trend is always toward minaturization, so a new unit can be fitted in.

      Oh, and replace the casements with double-hung when you can. (Sorry, I hate casements).

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    10. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by danpbrowning · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the advice. Others advised us to install the a/c through the wall as well (I never thought about doing it high, that's smart, and obvious) -- but since the house we are living in is rented, and the landlord didn't like the idea, then we have to stick to the alternatives. Thank you for the commentary, however, you've contributed to my knowledge of a/c.

      BTW, why do you hate casements? Besides the fact that they don't play nice with a/c, I've enjoyed them (easy to open, but that's not always a function of window style).

      --
      Daniel
    11. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by walt-sjc · · Score: 1

      If you put the fan on a lower speed, then the compressor is on longer but is not being quite as effective since your are not moving as much air over the coils (but what air IS moving across the coil is getting a little colder than it would at high speed.)

      It's best to just make sure the AC is sized right for the room. Most utility companies have a chart as well as the owners manuals for the AC's. I'm sure it can be found via google.

      The difference in electricity used with a Massive unit in a tiny room is much bigger that a unit slightly too large. I would tend to error one size up, but not two or three.

    12. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by walt-sjc · · Score: 1

      Well, I did put a normal AC in a casement. What I did was put a bracket on the outside wall that holds the AC from falling out, and build a wood frame with a lexan pane that fills the space over the AC. Works just fine.

    13. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      BTW, why do you hate casements? Besides the fact that they don't play nice with a/c, I've enjoyed them (easy to open, but that's not always a function of window style).

      While it's possible for a double-hung to become painted shut, or old ones to get stuck (modern ones have much better jambs), in the event of an emergency it's almost always possible to open a double-hung.

      Casements rely on unreliable hardware to open. Two of the three casements in my house need the cranks replaced. Also, due to styling, the windows themselves are usually narrow and often don't open a full 90 degrees. Combined, these 'features' can cause a deathtrap in the event of a fire.

      Plus I prefer the aestetics of a divided-lite double-hung. :)

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    14. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by cloudmaster · · Score: 1

      My roommate and I used dryer duct and a large PVC "tee" fitting cut in half to duct some of the air from our single large A/C unit (in a rented apt) to the other rooms in the house (ducting was run along the ceiling). We then had fans in the rooms blowing back into the A/C'd room to promote circulation. It worked suprisingly well. I'd use insulated ducting next time, as the temperature conduction through the duct walls hurt efficiency some. The more asthetically concerened would likely dislike that choice.

      One thing to note - make sure that you don't point the A/C unit at the heating thermostat across the room, or try to make sure that you turn off the heater control if you do. It's annoying to find out that your A/C unit is turning on the heater... :) Luckily, the heater in our POS rented house mostly just heated the basement through the extra uncovered ducts (until we noticed that a year later).

    15. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by unitron · · Score: 1

      There's usually a way to run the heater's fan without running the part that generates the heat, although you might have to get somebody who knows about heating systems to do some thermostat surgery and/or run some additional low voltage control wire back to where it's convenient to have a switch (local codes permitting).

      --

      I see even classic Slashdot is now pretty much unusable on dial up anymore.

    16. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by MiniMike · · Score: 1

      The 5250 BTU units only have a EER of 9.7, while the 15100 BTU model has an EER of 10.7 so is more efficient. EER relates to the cooling power per energy used, higher is better. Neither 9.7 or 10.7 is very good, but save what you can. Most of the energy cost comes from the compressor turning on, so 3 small ones would probably cost more than one large compressor. Just get the 15,100 BTU model and strategicaly place some fans around the house to distribute the air further.

    17. Re:I'm purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      how difficult is it to install/uninstall the unit?

  13. my experiences/suggestions... by jeffy124 · · Score: 2, Informative

    I have a drafty apartment, with a bedroom of about 15 ft by 10 ft. Last summer I bought a box air conditioner that goes in the window. It's a 6000 BTU that I got at Wal-Mart for around (I think, dont quote me) $160.

    Some nice things about it is that it attempts to maintain a certain temperature. You can set it to a desired temperature and it'll (try to) maintain that temperature by varying it's output over time. I cant tell for sure how accurate it is, but it gets the job of done from the standpoint of maintaining a consistent "feel".

    You can also set a timer to turn it off after so many hours, or on after so many hours. This good for when I go to bed, I can set the timer to turn the a/c off after 2 hours so that it's not running all night, and then, when leaving for work/school in the morning, set it to how long I plan on being out minus one hour, this way my room is cool by the time I get home without the system running all day with no one there.

    As for how much it's added to the electric bill, I cant really tell (nor remember). I have two roomates, each of whom have their own a/c boxen in their bedrooms. But yes - the bill will go up by a significant margin.

    If you choose a box air conditioner - pick one suitable for the size of the room it'll be installed in. If it's a small room like mine, 5000 or 6000 BTUs will do, but if it's larger, go something with more strength. I highly recommend the features like those I noted above.

    oh - and the best feature of my air conditioner - It has a Remote Control!

    --
    The One Rule Of Chess You'll Ever Need: Don't play someone who carries a kit in their bookbag.
    1. Re:my experiences/suggestions... by Smidge204 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      pick one suitable for the size of the room it'll be installed in.

      Quick rule of thumb: For residential spaces, 20-25 BTUs of cooling per square foot is generally sufficient to keep you comfortable.
      =Smidge=

  14. Dehumidifier by aziegler · · Score: 1

    I live in a relatively shady area, but the humidity gets pretty bad. Instead of buying an airconditioner, we bought a dehumidifier to work with our fans. It works beautifully.

    -austin

    --
    Ni bhionn an rath achx mar a mbionn an smacht (There is no Luck without Discipline)
    1. Re:Dehumidifier by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1
      we bought a dehumidifier to work with our fans

      Not a bad move. Here in Perth, W. Australia where it gets damn hot (as much as 46 deg. Celsius) in summer - and yes, I do know it's winter now :-) it has been getting muggier every year.

      about 10 years ago we did OK with just a free-standing evaporative airconditioner, but now all they do is just make the heat less tolerable.

      The answer: reverse-cycle split-system airconditioning. It doesn't need expensive ducting, and it is really efficient as a heater in winter months, too.

    2. Re:Dehumidifier by walt-sjc · · Score: 1

      Of course humidifiers put out a fair amount of heat. They are basically air conditioners where the heat is not vented out.

  15. ceiling fan by BigBir3d · · Score: 1

    that with a small window a/c unit and you should be set. worked for me in Phoenix and Tucson AZ quite nicely (110 degree summers).

    swamp coolers are not so good. you only get a change of 20 degrees or so, which sucks if it is 105 or so.

  16. awnings by zogger · · Score: 4, Interesting

    --if your room windows get direct sun, by all means install awnings. Just keeping the sun from streaming in is good for a few degree reduction in temp. Shade *works*. the other examples are good too. sometimes there's no replacement for just normal technology,. If it was a home you could mod away at, there are some alternatives, but in an apartment, just a room, not a lot you can do, bite the bullet, slap in the window AC unit.

    well, maybe there's one more thing you can do, if you have no qualms about it.....you can also get a metal detector, probe the walls, find the central HVAC ductwork from the people next door running their AC, tap into it, suck in cool airbandwith, PROFIT!!!!1!

    heh heh

    In the olden daze, people would sometimes use damp sheets at night, I've tried it myself, it works, The easiest way to dampen them without a big mess and a lot of hassle is to get a towel or three wet, wring them out, lay them on top of the sheet, once the amount of moisture you want (damp, not soaking) is transferred, you slip under the sheets, fall asleep. It actually works, gets cool. Another way is to sleep on an unheated water bed, they usually stay pretty cool and will wick away body heat, unless they themselves get to 98.6 obviously. Do the water bed and the damp sheet trick, at least you can fall asleep comfortable, it takes one or two nights to get used to the sheet, but then it feels real nice. That and fans and an awning is about it in the cheap and low energy range in an apartment.

    1. Re:awnings by hmccabe · · Score: 1

      well, maybe there's one more thing you can do, if you have no qualms about it.....you can also get a metal detector, probe the walls, find the central HVAC ductwork from the people next door running their AC, tap into it, suck in cool airbandwith, PROFIT!!!!1!


      I'm glad this story didn't make the front page, or you might start a debate on whether your neighbor's cool air wants to be free.

    2. Re:awnings by zogger · · Score: 1

      --in this case it would be coldwar driving.....

  17. Before you switch on the air conditioner... by Amit+J.+Patel · · Score: 5, Informative
    Things I do to keep cool:
    1. Use the mass of the house to "store cold".

      Keep the windows open at night. Let it get really cold throughout the house (except maybe the bedroom). Close the windows and blinds in the morning. Having tight seals on doors and windows helps here.

    2. Set up efficient air flow.

      In the evening, use fans to bring in cooler air from outside. (This depends on where you live. In the San Francisco area, it gets down into the 50s and 60s in the evening.)

      Put the fans in the windows. Block off as much of the window as you can except the area where the fan goes. Ideally, you can find box fans that fit precisely in the window.

      Important: point the fans OUT. Open a window on the other side of the house where air will come in. Pointing fans out is more efficient at moving air than pointing them in. Although pointing them in feels better, it doesn't do as good a job at actually bringing in cool air from outside.

      Don't use interior fans except when you are in the room.

    3. Use the multiple rooms of your home at different times of day.

      At night, I cool down the non-bedroom areas. During the evening, those areas are most comfortable, so I stay there. But I'm also cooling down the bedroom so that by the time I go to bed, the bedroom is comfortable.

    4. -
    5. Amit
    1. Re:Before you switch on the air conditioner... by Rxke · · Score: 2, Insightful

      That's the way to go!The main reason (i think) for Americans huge energy consumption compared to the rest of the world, is because AC's are used everywhere, most of the time, houses, work, cars... A lot of places in Europe have comparable climate with New York; but usage of AC is A LOT lower, especially in domestic circles, people using them are considered 'wasters of energy, too lazy to open ther windows at night et.c.) admittedly, New York is not the hottest place in US of A, I guess sometimes AC's are a real necessety to live a Western (= very active, no sleeping during the hot hours, et c) life...

    2. Re:Before you switch on the air conditioner... by ArmorFiend · · Score: 1

      A lot of it depends on location. In San Fran & the East Bay most houses don't have A/C because it only gets hot enough to use it about 2 weeks of the year.

      If you're really dedicated and have done all the things the grandparent of this post mentioned, it might be time to go to Lowes/HomeDepot and buy $70 worth of blow-in insulation (read: big bales of pocket-lint). Such a purchase allows you to borrow their insulation blower. You install the insulation it in your attic. If you have balls you can charge your landlord $1000 for the installation. (Professionals charge even more).

      picture

    3. Re:Before you switch on the air conditioner... by benzapp · · Score: 1

      Use the multiple rooms of your home at different times of day.

      One minor point here, the topic is cooling apartments... For most apartment dwellers, this is simply not at option. In most metro areas, people only rent a multi-bedroom apartment if they have roommates...

      --
      I don't read or respond to AC posts
    4. Re:Before you switch on the air conditioner... by Amit+J.+Patel · · Score: 1

      I used this technique in my one-bedroom apartment -- the living room and kitchen were one area and the bedroom was the other area. - Amit

    5. Re:Before you switch on the air conditioner... by demonlapin · · Score: 1
      I understand your concern, but the US has extraordinarily few climate zones that would make sense to any European.

      For example, I live in USDA zone 8, close to zone 7 (US Dept of Agriculture zones are a guide to how cold it gets in an average year, in my case 10 to 15 F or -12 to -9.5 C). This is roughly comparable to what you would find in Dijon, Rotterdam, or Hamburg, or maybe in the hills above Trieste.

      A typical summer, however, will top 100 F (~38 C) several times, with >75% humidity common - and there are many places both hotter and more humid than this.

      I lived one summer in Gainesville, Florida, in the north-central part of the state. At night, it was quite common for the low temperature to be 80 F (27 C), although that was just before dawn - at any reasonable hour, figure on at least 85 (29 C).

      Anyway, the North American climate is, to say the least, largely less hospitable than that of Europe.

      The air conditioning is still not always necessary at night (which is to say, it's not running much, as it's a central unit with thermostat), but I will be utterly dependent on it in another week or two, and won't turn it off until late October. Around December 1, I'll have to turn it on again for a month or so. (It's not too rare to wear shorts as late as New Year's Day, although it's usually cold.)

    6. Re:Before you switch on the air conditioner... by jrifkin · · Score: 1

      I agree. Be sure to try this first before you go the Air Conditioning route.

      I've done this in my apartments/house for 20+ years. We place box fans in one or more windows (even though the box fan instructions say not to) on one end of the house, and open windows on the other.

      The fans blow out so we don't suck in small insects like 'no-see-ums', they can sometimes be a real nuisance.

      Sometimes when I get ambitious, I'll hang a sheet across the doorways to the rooms with the fans, leaving only a foot of clearance between the sheet and the top of the doorway. That way cold air - which sinks BTW - dams up behind the sheet. Only the warmest air get pulled up over the sheet into the fan room and then is expelled by the fan. It might sound silly, but you can feel the difference with and without the sheet on a cool (less than 70F) night.

      During the day, we pull the shade down over the windows, especially those in the sun. We have room darkening shades, these are not translucent. The translucent shades mostly diffuse light so people can't see in, but you don't want that light, it carries heat. Awnings might even be better, but we don't have those.

      You should try it - it's cool :)

  18. My first tip: by breon.halling · · Score: 1

    For God's sake, man! Turn off your computer! ;)

    Seriously. My damned machine heats up the entire apartment!

    --
    "Yeah, well, Dracula called and he's coming over tonight for you and I said okay."
    1. Re:My first tip: by foniksonik · · Score: 1

      OR get an iMac ;-p or a nice Apple Laptop... doesn't heat a thing, well maybe the keyboard a little...

      --
      A fool throws a stone into a well and a thousand sages can not remove it.
  19. Green allright, cool down and save money. by braddeicide · · Score: 1

    Turn off a few computers, makes a HELL of a difference. SETI crunching is a good winter activity.

  20. It's the Humidity by Markus+Registrada · · Score: 2, Insightful
    Sorry about the subject line...

    A swamp cooler will only work if it's hot but not very humid. Here in Boston, for example, it would only make things worse. Note that you can't leave loose papers lying around with a swamp cooler running -- it's like a hurricane in the house.

    A ceiling fan makes your air conditioner work much better.

    One thing to look for in an air conditioner is the ability to suck in a bit of its air from outside, instead of just recirculating inside air or (with the lever pulled) blowing some inside air out. (Why you would want to do the latter mystifies me, but that's what they do.) Sucking in some outside air helps push some of the cold air into other rooms.

    Some ACs can be configured as heat pumps, too, so that when it turns cold they can heat the room, for much less than the cost of running an electric radiant heater, and maybe for less than gas heat, these days. As heat pumps, they cool off the outside air and blow inside air past their hot condenser coils.

    Live on the ground floor in summer, the top floor in winter.

  21. get an air conditioner by Suppafly · · Score: 0, Troll

    just get an ac or get central air for your house. what is the question that you are asking?

  22. drink hot beverages by falsification · · Score: 3, Informative
    Conversely, when you drink hot beverages your body cools down, because it is trying to balance out the temperature. When you drink cool beverages, your body will heat up, because it has to expend energy to keep your body at 37 degrees. So drink hot beverages. Don't drink anything cold.

    And lose some weight. You'll sweat less.

    1. Re:drink hot beverages by foniksonik · · Score: 1

      I always try to tell people that when I'm drinking hot coffee on a hot day... they insist I'm wrong and get an iced drink. Nice to hear that there are others who know the truth.

      --
      A fool throws a stone into a well and a thousand sages can not remove it.
    2. Re:drink hot beverages by Loosewire · · Score: 1

      i always wondered why a hot drink cooled me down....

      --
      Slashdot - The one stop shop for procrastination
    3. Re:drink hot beverages by vrt3 · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I had a professor who said the same thing, and I know people in Turkey and Morocco (amongst others) drink hot tea for that reason, but my experience is different. When I drink hot soup I get hot, when I eat ice cream or drink cold water/coke/ice tea I get cold.

      The whole idea is that your body overcompensates, because its 'thermostat' is in the back of your mouth (or troath, don't remember) and it gets it contact with the beverage, measuring an incorrect temperature.

      Now that may be (though personally I doubt it), but it still is counterproductive. When it's hot, your body needs to lose heat. When you drink something hot, you need to lose even more heat.

      --
      This sig under construction. Please check back later.
    4. Re:drink hot beverages by amarodeeps · · Score: 1

      I think it might be even simpler; when it is hot, and you drink a hot beverage, you sweat more. Sweating is your body's way of cooling down.

    5. Re:drink hot beverages by vrt3 · · Score: 1

      You sweat more *because* you need to cool down more, to lose the extra heat that was in the beverage.

      If you leave the door of the refrigator open, or if you put hot stuff in it, it will work harder to cool down, but it won't be any cooler in it. And if it was already it at the maximum of its cooling capacity, it will warm up instead of cool down.

      --
      This sig under construction. Please check back later.
    6. Re:drink hot beverages by thebigmacd · · Score: 2, Informative

      Instead of drinking something hot and adding to the problem, eat tons and tons of salsa, garlic, and horseradish. You will sweat buckets, breathe easier, and cool down without adding heat. You will also feel an urge to drink lots and lots of water, which is a good thing. But don't drink COLD water, drink lukewarm water (if you can stand it). Lukewarm water is best for temperature regulation.

    7. Re:drink hot beverages by vrt3 · · Score: 2, Funny

      And on top of that: if you eat lots of garlic, the people around will give you more breathing room.

      --
      This sig under construction. Please check back later.
    8. Re:drink hot beverages by kitsch · · Score: 1

      It will feel hot at first when you drink something hot, but then your body turns down your metabolism a bit since you have now added an external ammount of heat for your digestive enzimes to use. When your metabolism goes down you'll cool off and the effect will last a pretty good ammount of time. If you drink something cold the effect is the oposite. Of course it depends on the temperature. Room temp might be best or only slightly above. You only need to make it easy for your body to be at standard body temp which is where your metabolism work most efficiently.

  23. Green Solutions by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 1

    If you do want to stay green, just put in a ceiling fan. When I was living in a place without A/C (island in Thailand... high humidity and temperature), and as long as the fan was working life was good.

    If you have heat sources other than a couple people recreationally involved, then cooling might actually be required. Simple solution... shut off the computer at night!

    1. Re:Green Solutions by zakezuke · · Score: 1

      Or if that's not an option, funnel the exhost air from computer outside.

      --
      There is no sanctuary. There is no sanctuary. SHUT UP! There is no shut up. There is no shut up.
  24. you need more than a ceiling fan by E1v!$ · · Score: 1

    110? What part of phoenix were you living in? EVERY summer here the hot months are 115-125.

    Evap works really well except during monsoon season. All you have to do is leave your doors open, that's something many people don't realize about evap, you need to get max flow and to do that you need low backpressure (ie, open all the doors)

    1. Re:you need more than a ceiling fan by BigBir3d · · Score: 1

      Cave Creek (north of Paradise Valley).

      Never got over 114 in the shade when I lived there. In 56 years of keeping records...

      PHOENIX, AZ (56yrs) 88Jan 92Feb 100Mar 105April 113May 122June 118July 116Aug 118Sept 107Oct 93Nov 88Dec 122annual

      http://www.met.utah.edu/jhorel/html/wx/climate/h it emp.html

      125... uh huh. In the sun.

    2. Re:you need more than a ceiling fan by E1v!$ · · Score: 1

      North of PV? It's much cooler up there than in central phoenix. When I lived on Bell and 7th street coming over north mountain there was a definite temperature change (for the worse going south)

      56 years.. Supposedly the average temp outside the city is 10deg F. cooler than in it. That long ago PV and Cave Creek wasn't even in the city; hell, I think Sunnyslope was still it's own burg. Have you noticed an increase in the average temp with the city encroaching?

    3. Re:you need more than a ceiling fan by BigBir3d · · Score: 1

      Increase in average... not enough to be worth mentioning. The string of 100 degree days is getting longer, which is fine with me. I love the heat.

      I would say the difference is nowhere near 10 degrees during the day. At night, yes. Daytime only 2 or 3 degrees most of the time.

    4. Re:you need more than a ceiling fan by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Three words: urban heat island. Plant some trees, paint your house a light color, use real grass instead of stone. Or move to Flagstaff ;)

  25. Air Conditioner? by SecretAsianMan · · Score: 1

    Are air conditioners not standard equipment on the west coast?

    --

    Washington, DC: It's like Hollywood for ugly people.

    1. Re:Air Conditioner? by foniksonik · · Score: 1

      As a matter of fact, no they are not! I grew up in the south east and was incredibly surprised to find that air conditioners are not very common in west coast homes... well at least not in southern california homes.

      Don't ya know, it's because electricity is so damn expensive here! Well, plus we have nice ocean breezes or the Santa Ana winds most of the time.

      --
      A fool throws a stone into a well and a thousand sages can not remove it.
    2. Re:Air Conditioner? by zakezuke · · Score: 2, Informative

      The first time I saw an air conditioner was when I was 7 years old and moved to the east coast.

      Dispite the pacific north west's relitivly low cost of electric... air conditioners are none too popular. I mean it would be kinda cool to have one in the car, and I plan to upgrade to having one in the future, but for the most part they are they are rare items to find.

      For me, a large attic fan is most adquate for my cooling needs, though it wasn't quite enough when I was operating a sun 4/260 i'll tell you.

      ----
      While this wouldn't nessicarly apeal to the apartment dweller, I saw something on telivision regarding terrestrial heating. basicly it went like this. Antifreese in copper pipes underground. In the summer time, ground temp in most enviroments is cooler then air temp, just flow water through system, blow air over radiator, radiator = heat. In winter, assuming ground temp is greater then air temp, same deal but just add a touch of heat. The idea was to lower heating bills.

      --
      There is no sanctuary. There is no sanctuary. SHUT UP! There is no shut up. There is no shut up.
    3. Re:Air Conditioner? by dago · · Score: 1

      later things you talked about is a 'heat pump' which basically transfer 'heat energy' (cannot find back the english term) from the house to outside (and opposite)

      It doens't matter which one is hotter and which one you want to warm. Has much better efficiency than most other heating/cooling method (execpt burning fossils). Cost a lot to install. Need to have a house. Last longer. Very eco-friendly.

      --
      #include "coucou.h"
    4. Re:Air Conditioner? by blahtree · · Score: 1

      I have seen this done before (kind of) in a school in Penticton (Canada). Underneath the school there is a huge tank of water. Anti-freeze would probably work better, but water is cheaper. The water helps cool the school in the summer, and heat it in the winter. Pretty neat...

    5. Re:Air Conditioner? by mfarver · · Score: 1

      While this wouldn't nessicarly apeal to the apartment dweller, I saw something on telivision regarding terrestrial heating. basicly it went like this. Antifreese in copper pipes underground. In the summer time, ground temp in most enviroments is cooler then air temp, just flow water through system, blow air over radiator, radiator = heat. In winter, assuming ground temp is greater then air temp, same deal but just add a touch of heat. The idea was to lower heating bills.

      The United States EPA has recommended ground source or geothermal heatpumps for about 10 years. Basically a standard central air conditioning system, but instead of dumping the excess heat into 90-100F outside air, the heat is coupled to a water loop run 6' or more below ground where temps are about 50-60F year round. Compared to standard Central air or air source heatpumps it is about twice as efficent. In the heating cycle it is about 5 times as efficent as fossil fuels, but the higher cost of electricity makes it only slighty less expensive to run. Up front costs are about twice as expensive, but the payoff is noticible enough that many mortgage companies will let you roll the cost into your home loan. Its a great technology.. and almost no one uses it.

  26. Fans fans and more fans by NeoSkandranon · · Score: 2, Insightful

    After seeing all these suggestions for fans, I'm surprised no one's suggested a huge copper heatsink and a vat of Arctic Silver III.

    Seriously though, having a house in the shade of something else (trees most of the time) does wonders. I know it's not the greatest idea to have trees large enough to overhang a structure (not my idea, not my tree, yes limbs have damaged the roof when falling before) between the shade from the trees and the fact that none of the windows have a clear path to catch sun, it stays a good 5-10 degrees colder most of the time.

    --
    If you can't see the value in jet powered ants you should turn in your nerd card. - Dunbal (464142)
  27. plants by mattsucks · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I find that when I water my plants, I get a nice cooling effect. Ceiling fans + watered plants + moderate to low humidity (Texas) work like a champ. Plus it makes the plants happy.

  28. Turn on the oven in the kitchen... by dotpl · · Score: 3, Funny

    ...that way, when you go in and out of the kitchen, you'll notice just how cool the rest of your house is compared.

  29. Move by flikx · · Score: 2, Funny

    Move to a place with central air. My place is no more expensive than any other.

    Either that, or move to Alaska.

    --
    One future, two choices. Oppose them or let them destroy us.
    1. Re:Move by richardmilhousnixon · · Score: 1

      Speaking for all Alaskans: we don't want your sweaty-ass here!

      --
      -- sometimes AND gates turn me on.
  30. Keeping cool by travail_jgd · · Score: 5, Insightful

    My apartment's AC isn't that good, so here's some of the things that I try to do:

    1. Change your lightbulbs. Either switch to a lower wattage incandescent, or use the compact flourescent fixtures. The halogen torches stay off all summer.

    2. Turn off computers, lights, monitors and TVs when they're not being used. Yes, it will ruin your uptime, but most computers from the past few years dissipate 30-90 watts of heat. CRTs and TVs also generate a lot of heat. I had a room that I kept 10 degrees F warmer in winter just by leaving the computers (P3-866 and Athlon 1800+) and their monitors on all night.

    3. Use your bedroom for nothing but sleeping. Turn on as few lights as possible, keep the TV and computer out of there. And sex will heat up a room (done properly).

    4. Control your apartment's airflow. Put a fan in the window of your bedroom, aimed in. In another room, put a fan in the window, aiming it out. Close all other windows, and you should get a nice amount of airflow -- either to cool down your bedroom, or take heat out of the rest of the apartment.

    5. Put a fan at the foot of your bed, and crank it up.

    #2, #4, and #5 have the greatest effect in my apartment. Just remember that everything that uses electricity is going to generate some heat, and decide what you want to do from there.

  31. Earth. Use It. Don't Abuse It! by yancey · · Score: 4, Funny

    The cheapest solution (green too) that I can think of is to move underground. Have you ever been in a cave? Once you get about six feet underground the temperature never changes. It's always nicely cool. Some caves even come with filtered running mineral water. Bonus!

    Once underground, your only real environmental problem is lighting, for which you should use fibre optics and solar collectors during the day and use LED lighting powered by batteries when the sun is not out. Oh, and charge the batteries using solar too.

    If there are no caves on the market in your area, just bury your house. Remember, the dirt needs to be at least three feet thick, but you will reach a point of diminishing returns at around five or six feet so there's no need to waste your money and labor on extra dirt. Where you get the dirt is up to you, but please ask your neighbor before digging in their yard!

    Note: author not responsible for damage to buried houses

    --
    Ouch! The truth hurts!
    1. Re:Earth. Use It. Don't Abuse It! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Osama, is that you? It's Muhammed from Sleeper Cell #75. Where's the next strike location and time on the filthy Americans?

    2. Re:Earth. Use It. Don't Abuse It! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      Osama, is that you? It's Muhammed from Sleeper Cell #75. Where's the next strike location and time on the filthy Americans?

      May Allah bless us and curse the infidels. Commander Muhammed, it is so good to hear from you. We have a slight change of plans. We have decided to drop our original targets, and focus on bombing other Muslims. So don't attack any more infidels for now. As an aside, Muhammed, congratulations on the whole SARS thing! The stupid Americans think that it is actually from another planet! Ha ha ha! May Allah curse them!

      Remember, Muhammed, 72 virgins and 28 servant boys are waiting for you, and also remember that in Paradise, a believer's penis is eternally erect.

      Your evil^H^H^H^H holy master, Osama.

    3. Re:Earth. Use It. Don't Abuse It! by menscher · · Score: 1

      That comment was modded up as funny, but I actually know of a house built like that. It was the architect's second design (after a three-story "solar" house that was always the wrong temperature).

      And by the way, if the "standing AC" in the original question meant taking a window AC and putting it in the middle of your room, DON'T. That's equivalent to leaving the refrigerator door open. From a physics perspective, you're pulling energy into your place, so overall it will heat up.

      One idea I had once was to run water (hot/cold depending on what you're trying to accomplish). Passing it slowly through a long metal pipe would help. Adding heat-sink fins would be best. And then I realized I'd invented the radiator! Oh well, it was a good idea anyway (free heat/AC if you don't pay for your hot/cold water).

    4. Re:Earth. Use It. Don't Abuse It! by Dolly_Llama · · Score: 3, Funny
      Once you get about six feet underground the temperature never changes. It's always nicely cool.

      I'll get there eventually. I'm smoking all I can! Don't rush me!

      --

      Somewhere, something incredible is waiting to be known. -- Carl Sagan

  32. Simple solution by Feztaa · · Score: 1

    Live in a basement. Basements, almost by definition, are cold -- even in the summer. I love it here in my grandparent's basement :)

    1. Re:Simple solution by MarcQuadra · · Score: 1

      Word. My floor (linoleum tile / basement) is cool to the touch all year round, which sort of sucks in December, but ceiling fans in the summer just blow the hottest air onto the cooling floor tiles. The place stays cool in the summer and warm in the winter. I'm thinking about installing a timed 'bleeding' hose up around the whole house up where the foundation ends, that way I can keep the outer concrete damp, that should keep it a bit cooler in here. I also have a section of ceiling that extends from the house, so it's a tar roof, and I'm going to put some dirt down and grow grass on it with another 'bleeder' hose, that oughtta look cool and the grass will do some serious cooling in the summer and insulating in the winter.

      --
      "Sometimes, I think Trent just needs a cup of hot chocolate and a blankie." -Tori Amos on Nine Inch Nails
  33. Bad timing... by DigiShaman · · Score: 2, Funny

    Athlons are perfect in the winter time as the keep you warm all day/night long. Your prolly thinking this will save you alot of money on the heater bill, which it does (CPU is a multi-purpose device now acting for both PC and climate comfort). But.....durring the summer time. Muahahhahah, payback's a bitch. Enjoy ;)

    --
    Life is not for the lazy.
  34. Cold Water? by jedo · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I've always wondered how effective running cold water from the tap through a radiator would be. Point a fan at it and let the heat go down the drain!

    1. Re:Cold Water? by lpq · · Score: 1

      Good idea if you have a wet environment -- but So. Cal isn't known for it's swamplands nor excess water. Water prices are climbing and [pick one: realists/alarmists] claim water crises are not far away. Large underground aquifers like in LA that store water in wet seasons and are tapped in dry seasons, are *shrinking* in size -- because they are being overly tapped in dry seasons as population increases and the porous rock that holds the water is slowly compressing each season. On one hand, you have population increasing, and on the other, you have the ability to store less and less each year. Pundits claim when a long dry spell happens, the doubled effect of decreasing supply and increasing demand will magnify any shortcoming considerably -- such that we might not just be "a little short", but it might be a big shortfall.

      I'm amazed at the amount of water that is pumped from No. Cal to So. Cal -- so much so that the energy to run the pumps makes up a sizable percentage of energy consumed -- such that turning off the pumps in the last energy crisis was the difference between the grid falling or not.

      We really should be spending more money on researching cheap ways to do water desalination -- in areas like SoCal, with the natural heat for evaporation, it might be feasible, but last I heard, water would cost about 10x the current prices.

    2. Re:Cold Water? by ONOIML8 · · Score: 1

      Just one more reason I've never had a desire to live in California (or have anyplace else californiacated).

      When I die, I hope that I go straight to hell. Just so long as there isn't a layover in California.

      --
      . Quit playing Monopoly with Bill. Switch to one of many non-Microsoft products today.
  35. Caves are forbidden by DigiShaman · · Score: 1

    Sounds like an awsome idea. But the eviromental wackos would never allow it where I live (Austin TX).

    --
    Life is not for the lazy.
  36. Paint the roof... by curious.corn · · Score: 1

    ... if you live in a building with a tar impermeable layer. A couple of buckets of white paint will drastically reduce the amount of heat your air conditioner has to pump out.

    --
    Mi domando chi à il mandante di tutte le cazzate che faccio - Altan
  37. One Word...... Patton by frenchs · · Score: 1

    I have a second hand patton whole house air circulator, and god, do I love it. Turn it on during the day to blow all the hot air out of the house, and point it in the room at night to bring the cool air inside.

    link here from amazon

  38. The easiest way I know by IO+ERROR · · Score: 1

    ...is to move to an apartment with central air conditioning. I also have a programmable thermostat so the thing doesn't need to run when nobody's home.

    --
    How am I supposed to fit a pithy, relevant quote into 120 characters?
  39. Insulation by lowmagnet · · Score: 2, Informative

    Since I own my house, I decided to get my walls injected with tri-poly insulation. My house is all brick and hollow tile construction, so it was a bit difficult for them to do the task, but it's worth the money. On days where we hit 80 degrees here, the house has warmed up inside to at most 68-70. This, combined with opening windows at night, should make life bearable inside this summer.

    --
    Heute die Welt, morgen das Sonnensystem!
  40. Check out the roof by adso · · Score: 2, Insightful

    When I lived in Southern California, I rented an apartment on the top floor. Typical California apartment complex- the roof was six inches think, maximum. The landlords reroofed the place and all that black tar up there would help the sun cook my place in the summer. The "property managers" were unresponsive so I took matters into my own hands, climbing up on the roof with a bucket of white paint and basically spilling it about where my apartment was located (the roof was flat and not visible from the street). This made a huge difference in temperature.

    I subsequently learned that they make a paint specifically for this purpose (reflecting sunlight off of roofs instead of absorbing it) and that a lot of large buildings in the LA area were using it to lower energy usage.

    Also, the previous post about awnings was spot on. Having shades is one thing, but the heat is already inside. Being able to block direct sunlight before it gets to the window will shave a few degrees off of the temperature.

    1. Re:Check out the roof by lpq · · Score: 1

      I always wondered why someone hasn't come up with a way of changing the roof colors according to the season -- black in winter and white in summer.

      I guess a mechanical means like slats would just cost to much to be worth it -- maybe paints that change color based on temp or by running a current through them? -- like the IBM electronic paper -- cover the roof and erase the paper in summer -- make it all white, and all black in winter.

      So many of our current designs don't take into account energy consumption because energy has traditionally been so cheap/plentiful, but with some customers having electric bills near the size of their rent, change might come.

    2. Re:Check out the roof by shfted! · · Score: 1

      There is little point in a lot of locations, because snow often covers the roof in winter -- and believe it or not, snow is a good insulator, and will do much more for keeping the house warm, when you only get 8 or 9 hours of weak sunlight in the winter.

      --
      He who laughs last is stuck in a time dilation bubble.
  41. Haxor ways to cool the house by Glonoinha · · Score: 2, Funny

    Actually I spent some time thinking about this long ago (what kind of person overclocks his house?) I often thought that the evaporative cooling might work wonders on a brick house, set up a sprayer outside to spray enough water to saturate the bricks, let it trickle down and entirely wet the whole wall.

    My thinking was that when we as people get out of the pool / ocean / whatever and are still wet, even a moderate breeze cools us off very quickly, to the point of chills. Soak down the outside walls of your house to do the same thing.

    Didn't work, the red bricks were retaining ungodly amounts of heat from baking in the sun all day, the first splashes of water evaporated almost instantly. I guess the solid mass, a few tons of bricks, can retain way more heat than can be quickly drawn off by applying water to the surface.

    At least I tried. At first I thought it had worked, but while I was outside goofing off with water cooling my house, my girlfriend was inside turning on the central AC and cranking it down to 72, which she generally does when I am not looking. Pretty effective way to cool a house, in her mind, and I have to say she is right.

    --
    Glonoinha the MebiByte Slayer
  42. Overclocking cooling? by psyconaut · · Score: 1

    Attach:

    - Thermal grease
    - Water cooled heatsinks
    - Various overly large fans ...to yourself...And you're cooling problems will be over! ;_)

    -psy

  43. Summertime and the living is easy... by maggard · · Score: 1
    I've lived in apartments in a lot of cities, learned a thing or two about hot summers. Now living in Montreal this isn't the hottest place in summer but there is a few weeks of high temps and most structures here are optimized for the long cold winters. Here's my advice on what has worked over the years and locations...

    • Ensure good airflow in the space. Try and figure out if the breezes come from one side of your place or another and take advantage of that. Place fans to pull in air from one side of the house and push it out the other.

    • Keep air moving around you. Ceiling fans are great - cheap, quiet, out of the way. If you've appropriate mounts the landlord shouldn't care and you can take 'em with you when you leave. Also the big cheap box fans are good as they can run on a quiet low setting yet still move air over you.

    • Reduce the heat generated inside. Consider the lighting you really need. Is it best to light a room by bouncing light off the ceiling (a la torchiere) or would a few task lights for reading and such be more efficient? Turn off and even unplug electronics that aren't in use; things like amps, TV's, monitors, etc. put out lots of heat, some even when "off". Instead of using the dryer use a line outside.

    • Invest in good curtains or blinds. Obviously you'll get the best ROI on the sunny side but man does it make a difference. Make sure they're light colored on the outside, or even put an additionial white layer on the outside (pinning up cheap white sheets to the backs of colored ones work ok but your local fabric shop will have better stuff.) We've gone so far as to tape a 99 cent aluminized mylar "emergency blanket" to a patio door we don't see or use but gets lots of sunlight. Finally, good curtains mean you can go cool and nekkid without attracting unwanted attention.

    • Consider what rooms you air condition. We only cool our bedroom, the rest of the apartment is bearable. However we made sure to get a good AC for the bedroom and have tightly sealed the window around the AC, the door closes tightly, etc. For those like us with horizontally sliding window scoring a piece of rigid foam to fit over the tracks both seals the bottom side and reduces vibration.

    • Learn how to cook "cool". The less heat you generate making meals the less there is to deal with. Find recipes that require the least cooking/roasting/boiling/frying/etc. Instead of using the oven consider the toaster oven. Figure out what meals your microwave can do a good job at. Prepare meals in advance by cooking in the late evening (or early morning) when it is coolest. Avoid eating in a hot kitchen.

    • Consider making one room "the hot room". If you've machines acting as servers toss 'em in there. Same for other devices that produce lots of heat.

    • If you live on the top floor see about cooling the roof. We've talked our landlord into putting a white wash onto our roof this summer. It won't cost a lot but the heat difference should be substantial, especially as we've a flat roof with no discernable insulation. Otherwise when it gets really bad consider spraying a hose up there.

    • Get out of the house! Invest in books of movie tickets. Find a good park with some nice trees to sit or lay below. Here in Montreal we have an endless series of festivals (Comedy, Jazz, Carifiesta, Grand Prix, Gay Pride, Francofollies, Fireworks Competition, etc.) to keep us entertained, plus of course great street and club nightlife. Or escape the city and head to the nearest mountains, plains, or seaside, camping is cheap and fun or make friends with folks who have cottages.

    Or, consider moving someplace cooler...
    --
    I don't read ACs: If a post isn't worth so much as a nom de plume to its author then I wont bother either.
  44. Homer would by Gerry+Gleason · · Score: 1

    Just rip it out of the side of Flanders' house, don't bother to cover you tracks and deny it when Ned comes over to ask about it.

  45. Re: dehumidifiers reduce mold by jasonrocks · · Score: 1

    I lived in New Brunswick, Canada for about 8 months. In one apartment I was in, we had a dehumidifier right by the bathroom. In such a humid climate, humidity can cause mold to form quicker. (this was also evidenced by bread in the cupboard going moldy quickly in cupboards) I'm not sure if it decreased the tempetature, but it did decrease mold and humidity. If you live in a humid climate, dehumidifiers can help maintain your dwelling place.

    --

    void
  46. Turn off the computers by dheltzel · · Score: 1

    That will cool things down a lot!

    And if that doesn't work or if is drives you crazy to have the computers off (no Slashdot!!), just spend the night at work where it's cool. Your boss will think you're really dedicated, too. Trust me, he'll never make the connection that you only work late on hot nights.

  47. Sell your soul to the electric company... by Maul · · Score: 1

    ...and crank up the A/C.

    --

    "You spoony bard!" -Tellah

  48. Try cool seal (silver) to stay cool by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    Our condo insurance company was told we would be liable if it was any other material or color on our roof. Luckily it was done with cool seal which is silver this last go around. It was some kind of tar before. Cool seal does a good job of reflecting better than white, but gets HOT in the winter too.

    Two other suggestions just to reply to the ? post:

    Solar fans actually work as nice as a ceiling fan, if you get a solar cell that power an actual ceiling fan, all the better.

    If you live somewhere that it's possible to plant trees that's the best thing to do. Buy a poplar or pair tree (they grow fast)

    Painting your interior walls navy or gray and keeping shades pulled actually makes it cooler "seeming"

    A humidifier makes dry heat seem more bearable

    Make sure your duct work is PERFECTLY sealed no holes - cover it poor seals and holes if you have to with duct tape.

  49. duh by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    get an air conditioner, you fucking retard. and get rid of the 12 old computers you have on. sheesh.

  50. Good thought by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

    Instead of buying a single Kenmore 15,100 BTU Room Air Conditioner for $US380 (39.7 BTUs per dollar) why not buy three Kenmore 5,250 BTU Room Air Conditioners for US$99 each (53.0 BTUs per dollar)?

    Having just made an almost identical decision at BJ's last month, I'm backing this. I went in for the 15 KBTU $400 unit, left with 3 5 KBTU $89 units. These were Maytags with a 5-year in home service warranty and a $10 rebate. I think they were mid range in efficiency, but they sticker said they cost $38/yr to run. Being in NH I'll probably get away with $20/yr easily. All good except they screwed up and only sent me the rebate for 1 - must call...

    One goes our bedroom, one in the kid's room, one in the living room. As a bonus, I save the cost of running the fans from my original plan and none of the rooms get too hot or too cold.

    --
    My God, it's Full of Source!
    OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  51. Ducting by Alizarin+Erythrosin · · Score: 1

    I had a real problem with the heat from my computer heating up the area around my desk, so I fabricated some simple directional ducts out of soda cans to direct the air away from behind my desk, and I've already noticed the results... mind you, this doesn't make the entire room cooler, just makes it seem cooler while I'm sitting at my desk.

    --
    There are only 10 kinds of people in this world... those who understand binary and those who don't
  52. Water evaporators are bad by Muhammar · · Score: 2, Funny

    Humid heat is unbearable - and that is the kind of condition when evaporator fails.

    Evaporate pure grain alcohol! At $35 a galon, it is not too expensive. (Albertson's vodka is even cheaper than Everclear). Alcohol will prevent growth of mold, give out a nice refreshing smell and make your hot appartment very enjoyable. Biodegradable - and will not hurt ozonosphere.

    If you are willing to invest, buy a big dewar. Liquid nitrogen in bulk volumes is cheaper than milk. Wach out for a frozen mailman on doorsteps.

    --
    I doubt that we will ever figure out - and I suspect that even if we did figure out we couldn't do much about it
  53. Move out of NYC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    go to somewhere you can
    a. afford an apartment
    b. afford to have AC
    c. live above the poverty line

    1. Re:Move out of NYC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      First you don't want to live with me, now you have to afford me? Make up your mind!

  54. Ummm... by Wolfrider · · Score: 1

    Perhaps you should look into some safety tips before sleeping on an unheated waterbed. Last I heard, doing that can either KILL you - or cause long-term bad effects. And at the very least, it would be incredibly uncomfortable. As a (former) waterbed sleeper, un-heating the bed is NOT recommended.

    --
    .
    == WolfriderV6 == I'm willing to admit that *I just might* be wrong... Are you??
  55. For the uninformed by KillerHamster · · Score: 1
    air (âr) n.
    1. a. A colorless, odorless, tasteless, gaseous mixture, mainly nitrogen (approximately 78 percent) and oxygen (approximately 21 percent) with lesser amounts of argon, carbon dioxide, hydrogen, neon, helium, and other gases. b. This mixture with varying amounts of moisture and particulate matter, enveloping the earth; the atmosphere.
    2. a. The sky; the firmament. b. A giant void; nothingness: The money vanished into thin air.
    3. An atmospheric movement; a breeze or wind.
    4. Aircraft: send troops to Europe by air.
    5. a. Public utterance; vent: gave air to their grievances. b. The electronic broadcast media: "often ridiculed... extremist groups on air" (Christian Science Monitor).
    6. A peculiar or characteristic impression; an aura.
    7. Personal bearing, appearance, or manner; mien.
    8. airs An affected, often haughty pose; affectation. See Synonyms at affectation.
    9. Music. a. A melody or tune, especially in the soprano or tenor range. b. A solo with or without accompaniment.
    10. Air conditioning.
    11. Archaic. Breath.

    Source: Dictionary.com

  56. sunshine out; night breeze in by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Here's the verified scoop.
    First thing in the morning, before sunrise, open the windows to let in the relatively cool air; shortly after sunrise, close the windows to keep the cooler air inside, and do what you need to do to keep the sunshine out; when it becomes cooler outside than inside, open the windows again; then ...

    for sleeping, close all windows except for one by your bed which you leave open just an inch, and one on the far side of the apartment into which you place a fan blowing OUT, which draws night air in through your bedroom window;

    rise and repeat.

  57. Try eliminating A/C altogether by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I realize that you're asking for cooling suggestions, BUT... I would like to relate my experiences in this matter. A few years ago, I had a short-term contract working in the hot, humid, jungly tropics (I'm talking 4 south of the equator in the Pacific). Coming from a Nordic country, it was a helluva system shock, but after a few days, I adapted, living and sleeping comfortably with just an overhead fan. That was until I began spending my some of my working hours in an air conditioned office. Immediately, I lost the tolerance to the heat, so that whenever I left the A/C'ed office, I felt wiped out. Spent a few days away from it, and I built a tolerance again...

    SO

    Perhaps you could arrange to not get exposed to the conditioned air at your workplace. I suspect you would adapt quickly, and be comfortable with just a standup fan at your home, providing there is already some air flow from open windows.

  58. quietest AC's? by ed1park · · Score: 1

    I find the noise of AC's disturbing. Can someone recommend some silent AC's?

    Also, i have a basement room that gets hot, but i can't really install an AC there. Are there any alternatives out there that might help.

    1. Re:quietest AC's? by QueenOfSwords · · Score: 1
      I find the noise of AC's disturbing. Can someone recommend some silent AC's?


      Sure. Just read Slashdot with a threshold of 1. You won't hear a peep out of the AC's.

      *Boom - tish*
      --
      -- INTX Grouch. http://www.midnightblue.net
    2. Re:quietest AC's? by megabyte405 · · Score: 1

      Well, you know what I always say. The only good AC is a dead AC. JK!
      All the ones I've seen tend to troll too much to be quiet. A nice alternative would be surfing at +2.

      --
      I recognize people by their sigs. Is that a bad thing?
  59. lump of mirror matter by g4dget · · Score: 1

    I just keeep a lump of mirror matter around. It couples weakly with regular matter and radiates off most of the heat as mirror photons. Also works great for cooling Pentiums, and you can run cables right through it. I thought all geeks did that.

  60. Geez just get 'air' and a celing fan. by nurb432 · · Score: 1

    Its not that complex..

    Stick a unit in the window(s).. if thats not allowed get a free standing one and drag it around the apartment with you...

    Or find another place to live..

    Not been on your own long i take it?

    --
    ---- Booth was a patriot ----
    1. Re:Geez just get 'air' and a celing fan. by mindstrm · · Score: 1

      Freestanding units are nowhere near as effective as you'd think, or as advertised.

      Even the BTU rating is misleading.. yes, they remove heat.. but then there is the hose that leads out to the window. it ends up radiating a lot of heat back into the room.

  61. Have two levels? by Alan+Shutko · · Score: 1

    If you have more than one level (we had an apartment with a loft) open up windows on top and bottom. With just the windows on the main level open, our apartment would hold around 20F above outside temperature, but with the top windows open we got such a breeze (even though all windows faced the same direction!) that the differential was less than 10F.

  62. New idea... by qat · · Score: 1

    I suggest purchasing a refrigerator &/or freezer, relocate all of your necessary belongings to be in front of these units, and leave them open. Pretty decent cooling, but any meat or icecream quickly becomes less appetising (yet still edible)

    --
    Pls No Negative Modding!
  63. Skylight by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    In San Diego it rapidly cools after sunset. We installed an operational skylight at the head of the stair case that cools the house in about twenty minutes. Kinda like being in a charcoal coffee can lighter, hot air rushes out the skylight and cool air comes in the downstairs screen doors. Once the house is cooled, lock up for the next day.

    Option 2. Go work in the nice a/c. Time shifting to make the most of their a/c.

  64. green cooling ... by anythings-possible-b · · Score: 0

    19:29 26/5/2546

    TOPIC: cooling ...(AC=[A]ir[C]onditioning)

    i think everyone said everythings usefull (green) already:
    Albedo (shades, cardboard, alufolie, etc..)
    plants, trees (O2->CO2),
    humidifier/dehumdifier (damp towl around fan),
    store temp (open all night, close thru day, bucket full of water from cellar at night, fill bathtub with cool water, shower, put don't drain bathtub thru night. ).
    turn off heating-devices (normal lamps, not "neon-lamps", computers, TV, NOT flat-screen.)

    less usefull (green) ideas:
    use some peltier-elements like the ones in your computer and stick them to your window. use
    solarpower, self-made alternator for current source. etc... cardboard,
    styrofoam around peltier-elements for NO-albedo.

    get a sterling engine. very usefull if you get alot of sunshine.
    put a parabol-antenna around it, so it focusses the heat to the tip of the sterling engine.
    it doesn't produce any current if you don't add an alternaor, but one could use a
    "belt" to tranfer the momentum from the sterling-engine to the AirConditioning-compressor.
    heat from sun->sterling-engine->AC.compressor. (no current needed)

    if you DO have a AC-device, i can help if you put it away from direct sunlight, and use the water, that tends to
    condesate IN the room to cool the heat-sink on the OUTSIDE (simple ALU-can collecting the condesated water behind heatsink.)
    install extra (passive) heat-sinks around primary (active) heatsink of the AC-unit.
    if your AC is in a windy place, install it so, that the wind can help draw heat from the HEATSINK.
    some better models turn of the fan in the HEATSINK if it reaches a cetain TEMP, so let the wind do it ...

    all the (green) ideas to cool yourself without a AC should help to cool the HEATSINK of the AC if you have one ...

    there WAS something about the earth-magnetic-field, but i forgot ...
    -
    have fun, stay cool!

  65. Vent the heat out of your attic! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I put a fan in my attic to suck the hot air out of my attic. I got the fan from Home-Depot ~C$70)built for that exact purpose and it comes with its own thermostat to turn the fan on/off automatically. The idea is to cool down the ceiling where you live and which in turn helps out the AC greatly. The shingles on the roof lasts longer too since they don't bake as much. At night when the temperature drops I sometime open the attic trap door to suck out all the heat at the ceiling but I haven't determined if that is more effective than just letting the attic venting system keep running at status-quo.

  66. water cooled chair? by kcf3r · · Score: 0

    yep! possible: http://www.deviantmods.com/article.php?articleId=2 1

  67. Abusing Ask Slashdot with these questions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

    What's next?
    Dear Slashdot, I am unable to wipe my ass without leaving little balls of shit tangled in my ass hairs. How do you Java programmers groom your A-holes?

  68. Move into a warehouse! by VWswing · · Score: 1

    I live in this steel warehouse in san francisco, and cooling is never a problem.. Those few days a year that SF gets above 80 degrees, I turn on the big 4' fan that's downstairs (phase three power, woo hoo!) and it moves air around the entire warehouse as long as the doors are open.. you can feel that puppy if you're standing 60 feet away.

    --
    "And how can this be? For he is the ..."
    1. Re:Move into a warehouse! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What is your address?

    2. Re:Move into a warehouse! by kruczkowski · · Score: 1

      How much do you pay a month for a warehouse?

      I always wanted to live in a indurtial setting. Especialy if I can drive my car into my "living" room.

      --
      hmm... for fun I enjoy launching DDoS attacks against 127.87.42.5
  69. Go to the mall! by homer_ca · · Score: 1

    This won't help you if it's hot at night and you want to sleep, but if it's a hot summer day, go somewhere with free A/C like the mall. Beats paying a $100+ electric bill.

  70. Greenery by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Green idea: Plant Tree. Wait 10 years.

  71. Semi-OT: Rebate for one by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 1

    MANY of these items that have rebates are a limit of one per person or one per household.

    I would often get rebates at my school apartment for stuff my mom bought - An extra "household". :)

    --
    retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
  72. Computers and Electronics by SB5 · · Score: 1

    When I really want to cool down my room at night I put a fan in my window and use it as an "exhaust" fan, then I open my door and point another small Vornado fan pointing out. Although if I really wanted to cool down my room, then it would be a good idea to move all my electronics out of my room, they heat up my room by about 5 degrees.

    --
    If what you are reading sounds funny, or sarcastic, lame, or stupid
    it is because it is supposed to be. just laugh
  73. WEAK! by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 1

    Only 18" - That's tiny.

    We have an old but MASSIVE exhaust fan that's easily 24" or more. We have it in an upstairs room, facing out the window.

    For a significant portion of the summer (until it gets REALLY hot), all we need to do is open all the windows and turn that thing on, we get a cool breeze coming in to every window in the house.

    Even on some of the hotter days, running it at night makes the house cool enough so that the AC doesn't kick on until late afternoon.

    --
    retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
  74. Some creative ideas. by dlakelan · · Score: 1

    Sunlight pouring into a room through older windows will really heat up the room. There are several things you can do about this, including installing reflective window films (from Tap Plastics for example), or even painting some white paint onto the outside of the windows (great for places where there is no view anyway). To clean it off you just scrape with a razor blade. If you have fancy modern low-e coatings on your windows, DON"T do this.

    In california, nevada, arizona, etc Evaporative cooling almost always works very well. You want to watch out for mold growth on the pads or condensation in the room. Last year Home Depot had a portable unit from "Bonaire". Anyone know where to get replacement pads?

    Proper reflective roofing is a fantastic way to reduce the cooling load of your house. Google for "cool roofs" for more information. Unfortunately the most common type of roof is asphalt shingle, and there is no way to make them cool. White painted metal roofs, or built up roofs with a special white foam coating are both good ways to go.

    Deciduous trees on the sunward side of the house are fantastic in the long run, but take years to grow. Perhaps instead you might prefer to plant a trellis of climbing plants on the sunward side of your house.

    Indoor plants cool the room through transpiration of water, similar to evaporative cooling. This is a small effect, and works only in low-humidity environs.

    Lastly, when it comes to air conditioning, multiple smaller units are usually better than one big unit. You can better modulate the cooling effect, have different zones, and run the units at higher efficiency (less starts and stops).

    If you're looking to efficiently cool things on a commercial scale, absorption cooling systems can run off solar heat, or cogenerated heat.

    --
    ((lambda (x) (x x)) (lambda (x) (x x))) http://www.endpointcomputing.com a scientific approach to custom computing.
  75. environmentally friendly solutions by misterpies · · Score: 1

    anyone have any creative, green ideas

    If you're looking for environmentally friendly ways to keep cool, don't get an air conditioner. Those beasts are incredibly inefficient. According to basic thermodynamics, the _maximum_ efficiency possible from a heat engine (one that either uses heat to do work, or expends work to move heat) is given by (T_h-T_l)/T_h, where T_h is the temperature (in Kelvin) of your hot reservoir, and T_l the temperature of your cold reservoir.

    Now in the context of air conditioning, the "hot" reservoir is the air outside, which is at say 305K (32 C), and the "cold" reservoir the air inside, at say 293K (20C). That gives an efficiency of 4%. So for every 100 watt of electricity you'r paying for, only 4 watts actually go towards cooling your house. The other 96 watts are expended in heating up the outside air..

    So what's a green alternative? Well in the middle east they came up with a pretty good solution a couple of millenia back. They're called wind towers -- basically like very tall, wide chimneys only with no fireplace underneath. As the wind passes over the chimney (and there's almost always some wind), it draws the air up and creates a cooling breeze throughout the house. Other aids are thick solid walls and stone floors -- these cool overnight and take a long time to heat up in the day.

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    1. Re:environmentally friendly solutions by dlakelan · · Score: 1

      This isn't right. You've got the carnot cycle upside down. You want to know how much heat can be transferred per unit of work input, not how much work can be generated per unit of heat available.

      A typical efficient air conditioner has an energy efficiency ratio of about 9, this means 9 BTU/hr per watt of electricity used.

      or about 2.6 watts of heat extracted from the cold side per watt of electricity consumed.

      You can see that your calculation is wrong because it predicts higher efficiency when you pump up a larger gradient, in other words if you are trying to pump heat out of my room directly into the sun's surface it would predict a very high efficiency, obviously the wrong formula.

      The formula you've given is for the efficiency of a heat engine trying to extract work from a temperature differential, not for a refrigeration system trying to extract heat using work.

      The internet to the rescue: Hyperphysics shows some information on heat pumps.

      A typical efficiency is therefore about 300%, whereas if you use the air conditioner to pump heat into ground water (ie. use the earth as a heat sink) you can get very high efficiency, in that case you're acting like a heat pump, ie. heating ground water from a high temperature room.

      If the inverse carnot equation held and you had ground water at 55F (286K) and air at 95F (308K), you'd get about 1300% efficiency.

      This is clearly the best way to cool your house, use a heat pump to pump heat out of your room into the earth.

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      ((lambda (x) (x x)) (lambda (x) (x x))) http://www.endpointcomputing.com a scientific approach to custom computing.
    2. Re:environmentally friendly solutions by misterpies · · Score: 1


      Your maths is right, but your example is misleading. Moving heat from a hot room into cool ground water takes no energy input at all -- that's just the regular flow of heat (what's hot gets colder, what's cold gets hotter). What air conditioners do is move heat from a cold room into hot outside air, i.e. the cold gets colder and the hot gets hotter.

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    3. Re:environmentally friendly solutions by dlakelan · · Score: 1

      Sorry. I sort of glossed over the main point, which is that even under normal conditions, a reasonable AC unit is still 300% efficient (ie. energy efficiency rating of 9 BTU/hr / watt, which is about 2.6 watts of heat removal / watt of electricity).

      The groundwater is just a way to make them EVEN MORE efficient.

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      ((lambda (x) (x x)) (lambda (x) (x x))) http://www.endpointcomputing.com a scientific approach to custom computing.
    4. Re:environmentally friendly solutions by misterpies · · Score: 1

      The groundwater way is not just efficient, you can use it to do work. In fact you don't even need to pump the water to achieve cooling. Just stick one end of a thermocouple in your house and the other end in the ground. Hey presto, you're generating electricity while cooling the house. (not much, but it's still pretty neat)

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