Slashdot Mirror


An Affordable Pro-Quality Sound Card?

TFGeditor asks: "The company I work for is launching a pre-recorded radio program. I will be working with other staff (all in remote locations) to create the sound clips and then cobbling the show together (mixing). I will also interface with the co-host at a remote studio over the net via uber-broadband connection, producing our portion of the show as if we were in the same studio interacting with each other. What is the best sound card for the money (PC/XP) for this type of application?"

26 of 126 comments (clear)

  1. Wrong place. by Eideewt · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Get thee to an Audio forum, fool.

    I'm not normally one to complain about "Ask Slashdot" questions, but this isn't the best community to turn to for a recording question. There are forums in which nearly every member has bought many different audio interfaces -- you want one of those, not Slashdot.

    1. Re:Wrong place. by Eideewt · · Score: 3, Interesting

      I should add: your question is very vague. Will you be recording audio yourself? If so, you'll be wanting a decent microphone and preamp, as well as a quiet recording environment, more than a special sound card (assuming you've got something better than a Soundblaster), although the sound card is good to have. If you're not recording, just get some decent monitors and call it a day.

  2. Lots of options... by DavidChristopher · · Score: 2, Informative

    It's hard to make a recommendation without knowing at a granular level what you want to do. How many inputs? How many outputs? Is latency an issue? What about frequency/bitrate? Digital inputs? Analog? MADI? Lightpipe? Some light reading... On the ULTRA high end, you would go with Apogee- http://www.apogeedigital.com/ - these are some of the industry's best da/ad converters; and with something like a big ben+rosetta on firewire, you'd be in good hands. Another contender could be rme http://www.rme-audio.com/ Then there's motu's line of products - http://www.motu.com/ - I've personally owned several of their interfaces and can tell you right out of the gate they're great. Good bang for the buck... Then you've got m-audio http://www.m-audio.com/ edirol http://www.edirol.com/ presonus http://www.presonus.com/

    --
    http://www.bistolas.net
  3. some general advice... by wrfelts · · Score: 3, Insightful
    First, identify the tools (software & hardware) you will be using. THEN, see which boards are 1) recommended and 2) of good reputation with said software+hardware (review sites & blogs are good places to search). Look for reported compatibility problems and see if the vendor has corrected them. After you get done with that, you will have a very short list of boards you KNOW are working in the field.

    good luck...

  4. audiophile + motu by ElephanTS · · Score: 2, Informative

    I probably wouldn't go for an internal card. Better to have an external box in many ways. This one a friend of mine has and it's very good for the money.

    http://www.m-audio.com/products/en_us/AudiophileUS B-main.html

    I've only used it on OSX but I think the drivers should be just as reliable on XP.

    This one sounds even better but is more expensive and you'll need firewire.

    http://www.motu.com/newsitems/traveler-press

    I've got their 828mkII and this one uses the same DAC/DAC as that which sound really good.

    --
    spoonerize "magic trackpad"
    1. Re:audiophile + motu by DrSkwid · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Yeah, I can't think why we use Firewire to transfer data from our DV cameras into the computer for online editing ready for TV broadcast, it's just so lossy! 25 Mbit/s is just sooooo demanding.

      Stick to what you know sunshine.

      --
      There are places where the networks are not touching,and there are places where they are-Boeing's Lori Gunter
    2. Re:audiophile + motu by forkazoo · · Score: 2, Informative
      I have problems believing a USB sound card would be the best solution. Mainly because I do not trust USB and Firewire for realtime transfers. If you're going to sugest an external box, how about one with a better connection to the computer? Some in the Creative Audigy series have external boxes that connect to an internal sound card. Most of the processing is done in the box, not on board. Works great and is just as convienient.


      Well, feel free to not believe all you want. You can pry my USB audio hardware from my cold, dead hands. Now, I will admit that if you are doing some crazy multi-device work which requires perfect synchronisation, you may run into some very very slight issues by mixing USB and PCI sound hardware. But, you will probably run into very similar issues by mixing different types of PCI hardware, so I don't consider this a weakness of USB. Almost nobody actually needs that kind of latency. Those who do, shouldn't ask about it on slashdot.

      My USB hardware isn't even high end. It was $30 dollars and came with a headset with microphone. Seriously. It sounds better than the internal audio hardware on my Mac, my Dell, and my Athlon64. I've also tried one or two PCI sound cards in the Athlon. I even did a blind test with my room mate to see if I was just imagining the better sound quality. Moving the DAC outside of the computer has a very appreciable effect. What's more, I can bring it with me and plug it into a laptop when I want to record something on location, and I can plug it into my Athlon when I want to record using my nice dual monitor workstation. It works with Windows, Linux, and OS-X. (I've had some issues with Linux, but I always seem to have shit luck with Linux and sound, so I don't think it's any fiddlier than PCI sound hardware would be.)

      And, if I wanted, I could get a half dozen of the little USB audio dongles to do multitrack recording. I don't have that many PCI slots. Certainly not in my laptop.
  5. Re:Your output is no better than the weakest link by qortra · · Score: 4, Informative

    Not necessarily. People keep pushing this viewpoint, but it isn't always true. Sure, if you're using a fisher price speaker with your computer, you might not be able to discrimiate between sound cards, but in general, a relay race is a more apt analogy for audio equipment than a chain. Each component can single-handedly degrade or improve the performance of the entire system regardless of the other components' performance.

    To answer the original question, I think the M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 is one of the best consumer audio cards on the market (so long as you're not looking for a ton of I/O).

  6. I would suggest an Echo product by GrizlyAdams · · Score: 2

    Echo makes some good budget pro audio cards, 20 or 24 bit DACs, well designed, with propper sheilding. Pick one that meets your needs for input / output channels. Be sure to have a sound engineer hook things up, or at the very least learn how to avoid ground loops. If you don't have any PCI slots, theres good external boxes out there that plug in via Firewire. Also you can possibly find a good PCIe card.

  7. Parent has the right answer by Optic7 · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I'm no expert at this, but hang out in certain audio/video boards and read professionals' opinions on this (and stayed at a Holiday Inn last night). The common advice is to get an external audio interface that hooks to your computer via USB 2.0 or Firewire. The reason for this is that the electronic environment inside the PC case is extremely noisy (RF interference) making it almost impossible to get really clean audio if the analog audio circuitry is in there. That's why any professional audio card you see is usually external. I have seen M-Audio and motu recommended too. Oh, and what someone said about noise-free environment (quiet room) and correct microphone are also very important.

    By the way, I imagine you'll probably find a better selection (and prices) of these interfaces at your local Guitar Center or discount music superstore than at your regular computer parts store.

    Good luck.

  8. I second the motion by TheSHAD0W · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Internal sound cards have gotten pretty darn good, but you can still wind up with RF noise leaking into the audio. Keeping the ADC/DAC outside of the computer eliminates the possibility.

  9. Other Sound Cards by knuxed · · Score: 2, Informative

    The ESI Julia@ and Audiotrak Prodigy 7.1 are very very nice cards.Quite popular in Malaysia as it is dirt cheap,or u could even go for a modified 0404 ,though i am not so sure on the price

  10. Re:Your output is no better than the weakest link by buswolley · · Score: 3, Informative
    Another worthy M-audio card is the Delta 44.

    If you need to record audio from microphones with XLR inputs I'd go with something like the M-Audio Delta 44 24bit/96. It has 4 ins and 4 outs that can be used for recording from a mixer using professional microphones. The quality A/D and D/A converters are pretty good, and keeps in sync well. I've gotten some good recordings out of the card.

    If you require more ins and outs, I believe that you can stack multiple M-Audio cards.

    Note: They provide drivers for Linux too.

    --

    A Good Troll is better than a Bad Human.

  11. Re:I recommend the Soundblaster 16 by tonsofpcs · · Score: 2, Funny

    The SB 16 is actually [still] one of the better consumer sound cards, however I think that this company would be better served by a LynxOne.

  12. Avoid Creative Labs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    Seriously. Their quality has gone up quite a bit in the past few years, but it's still not as nice as the MOTU, Echo, or M-Audio gear. Creative sells a great deal of gear to people who believe gimmickry like their claims of impossible S/N ratios, so you must understand that their efforts are really focused on attention-grabbing features (like 5.1 simulations from stereo in hardware) instead of quality (like rock-solid clock signals). Also, their drivers suck. Professionals DO NOT use Creative's products, and their attention to professional features like simple, solid drivers is lacking for that reason. Other manufacturers cater to the crowd that is more discriminating about these details and don't care about 3D audio accelleration in games, for example.

    Finally, they recently had a serious issue where they advertised 24bit audio, but it was only 24bit on PLAYBACK. This may have been resolved, but I recently saw some posts on a forum that indicated that it wasn't. I have been doing semi-pro audio on PC's since the days of the Turtle Beach Tahiti in 1994 (back when TB made really wonderful gear... sigh) and I would never trust my music to a Creative Labs product. -NEVER-

    A friend has the Mia and we're wrapping up an EP on it for our mastering setup. We recorded at my place where I use a Yamaha 01V digital mixer with an optical connection to a Terratec EWS/88D (older stuff, but I like it). The Mia is nice. I've heard great things about the recent M-Audio products as well. You should strongly consider an external box if you are doing recording (as opposed to mixing). Cards are still prone to noise (although it's much better these days than when PC audio first started) and breaking it out from the inside of the EM-washed case makes a big difference. Not to mention that if you get a firewire or USB device you can use it with your laptop and have a mobile recording solution (of course, you will then not be able to match the latency of a PCI card; this explains why I have a card but I use the card as a digital interface to an external A/D D/A converter, my mixer).

  13. Re:I recommend the Soundblaster 16 by Uncle+Snuffagus · · Score: 5, Informative

    Soundblaster cards are great for games, movies, and listening to music. When the intented use is to record, however, they are a poor choice because the input convertors are not very good. There is also the issue that they are internally rate locked to 48k and will force SRC onto streams of any other rates (such as the CD standard of 44.1k). Good for games, but not so good for the project studio. A simple low-end pro card like an audiophile 24/96 is a much better choice for about $100 or so, if you can deal with only having line-level inputs. Do you need Mic inputs? Phantom power? How many input signals will you be dealing with at the same time? After you have the answers to these questions, you can compare products with the feature set you need from M-audio, RME, and Presonus to determine the exact card that is best for you. You can't go wrong with products from any of these three companies.

  14. Re:Your output is no better than the weakest link by nnet · · Score: 2, Insightful

    note: Balanced and unbalanced I/O :)

  15. Re:Hit zzounds.com and look around. by ben+there... · · Score: 2, Informative

    I'd recommend M-Audio as well. In a break out box. All the professional solutions are external. If you can find a cheap one that is still external, it's probably at least better than most consumer cards.

    You'll still have some latency problems because of your PC, but I'm not sure if that will be an issue with what you're using it for. Check M-Audio's recommended PCs/Macs if it's an issue.

  16. Soundcards by clockwise_music · · Score: 4, Informative
    • Stay the hell away from any internal cards. Noisy and a royal pain in the bum.
    • A "breakout" box will make your life a lot easier. Try to get something that has at least 4 ins and 2 outs. Avoid those things that are an internal card but come with a jack with lots of female plugs. Ergh.
    • Stay the hell away from anything by Creative.
    • Try to get yourself a decent microphone. A nice condenser makes everything sound a lot better.
    • Have you considered software? What are you going to use? What have you used previously?
    • Myself, I have an MBox2 by digidesign. Doesn't seem like a long of bang for your buck, but it does come with ProTools. While this may be overkill for a radio show, if you want to seriously get into recording and mixing, it's really the industry standard. Works fine in XP. (Also consider Cubase).
    • M-Audio hardware is meant to be ok. Check it out.
    • Don't listen to those losers who tell you that you need a Mac. You'll be paying twice the price (no offense, I love OSX, but hardware is $$$) for the same thing.
    • Getting a great soundcard + mic will make a big difference, even if you have crap speakers (or headphones). Especially if you're doing stuff for other people. Mixing will be difficult though.
    • Get yourself a good pair of headphones. Annoying, but a lot cheaper than a good pair of speakers (+ amp).
    • Go to a recording studio and ask if you can 'shut up and watch' for a while. Don't go a super-duper expensive studio, maybe just a place where they record demos. If the guy is nice enough you'll learn a lot.
    • Keep it simple! The less stuff you have, less can go wrong!
    • Mixers are cheap as hell these days. The behringer stuff is very cheap and good. If you're not recording multiple sound sources simultaneously, consider getting a good soundcard that only has 2 or 4 good AD converters and piping everything through your mixer.
    • Don't skimp on patch leads and plugs and connectors.
    • Sales people will bullshit you into buying expensive crap! Don't listen to them! Find someone who is genuially interested in helping you meet your needs!
    • Good luck!
    1. Re:Soundcards by SkunkPussy · · Score: 3, Informative

      Stay the hell away from anything by Creative.

      hear, hear. I have had no end of problems with 2 different soundblaster lives. In both cases, creative's own drivers refused to install claiming no soundblaster product existed in my system. For reasons known only to creative, they wrap their drivers in some shite installer that fails to detect their soundcards in many cases. They cripple their drivers so that they cannot be installed through the normal windows hardware detection routines, so when their installer doesn't work, you're fucked. Why Creative? Why?

      To compound it all, if you think to download the latest drivers which may now be fixed, well the drivers they make available on their website are not full drivers in their own right, merely upgrades to the ones provided on cd with the product - WHICH DON'T FUCKING INSTALL!

      I went through their customer support process and they were reasonably helpful to the point of posting me a new driver cd - but when that didn't work either, I just gave up.

      Creative's soundcards are full of gimmicky features and never live up to marketing promises. For example creative advertised their soundblaster live cards as being upgradeable - promising new features via their "liveware" sytem (i.e. some kind of firmware on the device I suppose)...guess what, when I get my soundblaster live, the liveware was at version 3, and at no time since I bought the card has Creative released a new version of "liveware" beyond incremental bugfixes. Lying bastards.

      Creative are not an engineering company, they are a scummy den of marketing snakes and it is in nobody's interest to buy from them.

      Even their name is a joke - no serious creative professional would touch a creative card with a bargepole.

      --
      SURELY NOT!!!!!
    2. Re:Soundcards by multimediavt · · Score: 2, Informative

      Liked this post and just wanted to add (to the OP, not this one), What do you define as "pro audio"? Today's high-end systems are 24-bit, 192kHz; to me, that's pro audio. There aren't a lot of vendors out there making USB or Firewire equipment that operates in this realm, and the ones that do have really big price tags. I do a lot of live and studio recording for musician buddies of mine. Haven't done anything for money for a while, but do work for beer! If this person is only going to be doing voice recording, an everyday 16-bit, 44 or 48 kHz solution could be all they need. If you're talking about doing audio production where instruments, foley, and other audio is going to be recorded and mixed, then a higher-end system is a better choice. I also agree that your audio quality is GREATLY affected by, not only your recording hardware/software, but by the microphone(s) you use. I can make a 24/192 recording device sound worse than 16/44 if I use a crappy microphone. If you're doing voice (this is to the orignal post again), spend the money on really nice cardio-condenser mics and good cables, and get a decent M-audio or Lexicon USB input device. MusiciansFriend.com has decent prices, but shop around (Sweetwater, etc.). You should spend more money on your mic(s) than you do on the input box. Rode, Shure, AKG, Neumann, are some good mic brands.

  17. The Rules by BigFootApe · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Now, the only audio input work I've done was digitizing vinyl, which isn't all that taxing. However, I'm fairly particular about sound quality.

    What I've determined is that even good quality on board D/A equipment is poor. Much better, for a number of reasons, to use an external converter plugged in to an spdif jack (input and output).

  18. Look to EMU by BoneFlower · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I'm very happy with my EMU 1820, though for what you plan to do it may be overkill- I doubt you have much of a need for 8 channels of analog input + 10 digital channels, not to mention the other 14 host sources you can mix in(total of 32 channels hardware mixing). But the EMU cards also offer hardware accelerated effects... some of which, especially compression, can be quite important for broadcasting. Taking the load off your CPU can make a big difference sometimes.

    Look for high quality DACs. Don't worry too much about 24 bit bit depth, or 96/192khz sample rates... 44.1/16 implemented well will be overkill as it is for any sort of radio broadcast or webcast. If you do want to go further, bit depth will generally mean more than sample rates, at least in my experience recording stuff- but there is little need unless you want to master for an analog medium and get aural advantages over compact discs.

    The one problem with EMU cards is the tendency for the driver to go mental and corrupt itself. On the upside, this has only happened to me on boot- you really don't need to worry aobut it dying in the middle of a session. On the other hand it sometimes requires registry surgery and manual deletion of files in c:\windows\system32\ to let you reinstall the drivers. This doesn't happen often, but it's certainly a pain in the ass when it does.

    For the capabilities they offer, the EMU cards are priced quite low. But as explained above, driver stability can sometimes be a significant issue. If you need 24/7 immediate availability, don't get them. But given that the worst case is probably that you lose an hour a day every 4-6 months(probably less), they can be quite good for many contexts.

  19. Re:I recommend the Soundblaster 16 by dgatwood · · Score: 4, Informative

    This company would be better served by asking on an audio board. You should ask on ProSoundWeb if you're feeling lucky. Otherwise, homerecording.com has a BBS that a lot of recording folks frequent (myself included). Neither the SB 16 nor LynxOne will EVER be recommended on an audio board. You can't even get Mac OS X drivers for the LynxOne (according to the company's website). It's a fossil. And the SB 16 is a toy. Utterly a toy.

    The first mistake the person asking the question made is to use the words "sound card" and "professional" (well, pro-quality) in the same sentence. These days, the correct term is "audio interface" because almost every modern interface these days is NOT a card. I would strongly recommend FireWire; USB is at best marginal, IMHO. Above all else, though, get something that is external. I say this for three reasons:

    • Internal bus architectures cannot be easily adapted to new bus architectures. PCI is being phased out in favor of PCI Express which is not compatible with legacy parallel PCI cards, so with a PCI card, you'll be stuck with a large investment that you won't be able use after you replace your computer a couple of times.
    • External audio interfaces are more immune to interference generated by electronics inside your computer. While it is possible to achieve this with PCI cards using a breakout box, it's less than ideal.
    • FireWire audio interfaces can be used with laptops.

    With a PCI interface, you're stuck on a Windows PC desktop forever (unless you want to try to run Ardour under Linux). You'll never be able to switch to a Mac because current Macs don't have legacy parallel PCI slots. You'll never be able to move to a laptop because the cost of a PCI breakout box is much, much more than it would cost to buy a FireWire interface . Finally, within about 5 years or slightly over, you'll be stuck trying to keep your current computer running because you'll be hard pressed to find a motherboard that still supports PCI.

    I'm not going to give any specific recommendations within the FireWire space. I'll say that the Presonus pres are slightly better than the M-Audio pres, IMHO, and I've heard some people also mention that Presonus pres are better than the TASCAM pres. So if you're going for that very last tiny drop of quality, that's something to consider. Of course, if you're really trying to spend money, you can't go wrong with an RME Fireface or an Echo AudioFire. I'm also a fan of MOTU; of course, while a lot of Mac users swear by them, I've heard some PC users swear at them, so YMMV.

    --

    Check out my sci-fi/humor trilogy at PatriotsBooks.

  20. Look at Echo products by cachorro · · Score: 2

    The best bang for the buck I've found (and used) is the Echo Mia Midi PCI card. It is a pain getting it to work on Linux, but it will work there and I assume it is much more easily configured under Windows or on a Mac.

    AFAIK all the songs at the site www.mauiruhisongs.com were recorded using that card [disclaimer: religious content], so you can listen there to get an idea of the quality of the sound.

    Two channels in and two out are not enough for some though.

  21. Re:I recommend the Soundblaster 16 by ShadowLeo · · Score: 3, Informative

    I have to agree with the parent. This is most certainly not the place to be asking this kind of question. However, I'm willing to throw in my 1.5 cents, as a musician.

    Now you said this is primarily a radio show, so I'm going to take a jump here and say you won't actually be playing much live music. If this is the case, then you don't have to splurge on the much higher end stuff for that "perfect" sound. In fact, your recording quality doesn't have to be the max you can handle either. I will recommend that you do yourself a favor and go get yourself a nice quality Condenser Microphone with a pop shield(those funny felt looking disks they suspend in front). This will help reduce the wind noise generated by certain sounds you will make(Such as P's and B's).

    I have to say, from experience, that my absolute favorite recording card is the Mark Of The Unicorn 828 mkII, but it has a serious amount of inputs that you may not need. You may find the Traveler or the Ultralite more your cup of tea. Either way, nothing beats getting into your local audio shop and trying one out

    One final question I have is what program are you using? If you are using anything but Pro Tools, such as Cubase, then the MOTU stuff should be good for you. However, if you DO plan to use Pro Tools: then you are kind of locked into M-Audio or Digidesign. Pro Tools will only work with Digidesign/M-Audio approved hardware. Namely their own.

    Don't skimp on a good mixer, be it software or a physical one; make sure your mixer is up to par with what you are doing. If you prefer to work with more physical equipment rather than virtual, then I would also recommend getting a compressor for your voice. These things can do wonders for your sound and levels

    Finally, above all else: Be careful WHERE YOU RECORD!. 90% of people overlook this one critical, CRITICAL variable. You could have this amazing live sound, your could be Howard Stern (or Opie and Anthony); and if your acoustical environment is terrible: your recording will suck. There are some excellent resources out there. You just have to google for it.