Doesn't work that way here in the States. You get your ATM card after you're done with all of your transactions... you may withdraw money, then make a deposit, then make a transfer, etc., and when you tell the machine you are all done it prints out (if you told it you wanted paper copies (duh!, always get a paper trail)), and then finally spits out the ATM card.
However, after hearing how it is done elsewhere, it should be that right after you put in your PIN and it is verified that it should kick out the card and make you take it before it'll take a deposit or dispense cash, etc. I'll suggest it to my credit union.
But if you read further on the Wiki page, even having a key and permission to be somewhere doesn't give you permission to take things that you're clearly not authorized to take (say a TV out of a home that a man had his father's keys and permission to be in... I believe that was a case example).
But he didn't not access the system with his own account - that right there shows that he knew what he was doing was crossing the line, otherwise he'd have done it with his own student account. If I take your keys w/o your permission and go into your house, am I not breaking the law? If I snoop your car pin (for those fancy cars that have that sort of thing) and then get in your car, am I not at least trespassing (and actually breaking and entering per the law, see the wiki page for that regarding vessels and vehicles).
IANAL, and I'm just guessing, but wouldn't that be tresspassing? I mean, if you're breaking and entering, I would assume that requires the breaking of something, right?
I'm not a lawyer, but according to the dictionary.com: breaking and entering n. 1) the criminal act of entering a residence or other enclosed property through the slightest amount of force (even pushing open a door), without authorization. If there is intent to commit a crime, this is burglary. If there is no such intent, the breaking and entering alone is probably at least illegal trespass, which is a misdemeanor crime.
Note the "even pushing open a door" bit. In Wikipedia's article on Burlgary, it states that in a store, going behind a shopkeepers counter (an area clearly not for customers) is trespass, which may be all he did.
However, to me it all comes down to intent (to steal or defraud, etc.). If a student logs in and sees in Network Neighborhood a server that allows them to double-click (is that a open door, or a closed door?) and access things with their own credentials (which this student could have used, but apparently tried to be sneaky and used another persons credentials so they won't be caught in the audit log). One place I read made it sound like he was trying to sell or hold ransom some information he'd found.
As a practical matter, nobody is 100% honorable, and somebody who's in charge of building voting machines should not be politically active.
I disagree with the last part. I would say that there should be safeguards such that no single person nor company can control or fix an election. Everyone has the right to participate in the election process, no matter the level.
The local county registrar (the top person in charge of voting, at least where I live) shouldn't be able to "fix" votes any more than any other person, and of course should also be able to vote. If the local county registrar did "fix" votes the others in their office should be able to detect this and blow the whistle.
As an aside, I heard recently that a bunch of town folks (in a nearby small community of less than 10K) objected to a local pastor running for city council (improperly citing separation of church and state). Again, I take issue with that, and say that the folks should just speak with their vote, and not try and tell someone they cannot run for office. State should not dictate the church/religion. There is nothing unconstitutional with church/religion telling state what to do (in a legal manner). Walk into any church right now and you'll find all of the pastors with any spine telling their congregation to vote their beliefs - not party, not canditate, but vote how they believe.
I guess the problem was that the folks who didn't get paid couldn't communicate well enough with the company who paid the money out. If that company had just cooperated then the funds could have been tracked to see where they were deposited, which would then lead to the criminals. I suspect that's what finally happened in the end.
But CDRs from where? To my knowledge, the telco doesn't maintain inbound CDRs or for local calls. It could be that the calls are from her local CO, and therefore would have no CDRs, or my be from anywhere else, and then only the remote CO and LD carrier would have those CDRs, but you have no clue which one it is.
About the only way to catch this would be to be monitoring calls on a line that receives one of these calls. But you cannot (legally) just monitor all lines to find them.
Further, there are a number of internet "telco" companies that let you set your CallerID info. In fact, you can even use a web interface at one site to have it call two numbers and join the calls (spoofing the CallerID of each to each other).
Unfortunately, you'd really have to have the help of a[ll] telco[s]. Which is about as likely to occur as getting someone to tell you who owns an 800#.
Just a warning, as great as having the same Flash as Windows, etc., Flash 10 breaks compatibility with a number of websites apps. Specifically I've found a problem with CitiBank's Virtual credit card app (it mis-detects Flash 10 as 1.0). BankAmerica's Shopsafe (same concept, temp credit card numbers) works, but also throws errors in different sections saying I need flash 6.4 or greater and that 1.x doesn't cut it.
This occurs with Windows as well as Linux (I tried to get it to work under a Windows VM, but when I installed Flash 10, it had the same problems).
Asking a non-technical cop, "Here's the IP address that he is using, please subpoena Comcast to find out his name and address," is like asking the sun not to shine. It's just not going to happen and your item isn't a big enough ticket for them.
Further, I would use the argument that the IP address proves nothing. I've 2-3 neighbors with open APs that I can see from time to time depending on where I sit in my house (1 right now). A few times I've been upset because my laptop decided to use one of them instead when I was trying to get my wireless working (which I didn't want to occur). You chase down one of those with no stolen laptop at the residence and the cops aren't going to go any further for you. They want a hard item to look for.
Triangulation with a GPS connected to your laptop and wireless card is very trivial to do.
As another person pointed out, 3a and 3b are difficult. However, if you have remote access, a list of nearby APs/SSIDs would be useful. If the folks are near any open APs that are listed in many DBs online, then you can go war driving and triangulate your laptop (since you'll already know where to start near the open AP).
Once you can show the cops "I have the signal coming from there, and it's got to be one of these 3 locations" then I'm sure as the other person posted, they'll just check out the address for know thief-types. Once they have a match, they'll get a warrant to search based on the triangulation and the known offender.
Even if the person is not a known offender, you could always confront them yourself if the cops won't do anything. Social engineer your way in and offer some sort of demo for free (Kirby sales, magazine sales, etc.) and see if you spot your laptop or can trangulate it better. Having a cute g/f do the social engineering is probably more successful. Probably talking to a few nearby neighbors you could narrow down who the "untrustworthy" types are, and they may even let you try to triangulate from their backyard.
I wonder how long until you can get a built-in GPS for your laptop? That'd solve the problem altogether... might even be PCMCIA card ($99), but unless it is built-in or hidden, the perp will probably pull it out.
Here's a hint - have a guest account listed with the password in the description of the account. Make it non-admin/root (no user should have that access anyway, you're just asking for trouble).
Physical security is really everything anyway.
If someone steals my laptop, I want them to log in as my guest user. My PC is going to phone home and let me catch the thief.
I was just going to suggest this as well. Just order a basic DSL circuit and put them behind a cheap-o firewall and leave them at their own devices.
Use Cisco NAC to keep their unauthorized devices off of your trusted network (or put them in an external guestnet with only internet access if NAC authentication fails).
I was going to make this point myself. We don't have real TV's hooked up to Comcast. We use watch most things online and/or have a custom MythTV box that records and streams things all over the house to laptops and bigscreen displays on PCs. We've a family of 6 (4 not yet teens, but they'll all be there in 3-5 more years). I often work from home, and I do download very large files for work (Cisco patches are 1-2gb DVDs). We're moving to a much larger house (everyone will have their own bedroom plus one spare) and may from time to time have a guest staying with us as well.
Part of the problem I see as well is Comcast won't give you more than one account per address. Give me an account I can stick the rest of the family on and they can hammer all day long, and give me an account I can do my work on.
This would be a great DB to have for my custom lojack that reports back to my server the AP SSID and MAC address that any of my laptops are talking to. I'd be able to go to the location myself and verify the AP MAC address is still there, triangulate where the source is, and then notify the police so they could get a search warrant and recover my laptop.
We actually have a department policy that we are are to check email every 2 hours and respond to immediate/emergency type requests at that time. Every 4 hours we have to deal with non-critical items and respond to everything (deal with it, schedule it, get it where it needs to go). We're not to check email any other time, but stay on task.
I think it's great. I had to turn off my vibrate for work email on my Blackberry, and keep my Outlook minimized so I don't see new emails, but it helps a ton to keep focused.
We also don't take calls except from within our department (which must be urge to call or IM, otherwise must be emailed), or from customers who we're expecting a call from. All other calls go to VM (which is integrated with email) and follow the 2 hour/4 hour rule.
You'll be amazed at how much more work you get done. And how much more you respond to everything, just with a 2 or 4 hour delay in response.
Not "exactly" the same. The video describes the laptop has having much lower specs than what you've linked to (512mb of RAM vs. 128mb RAM, 4gb HDD vs. 1gb flash). Of course, for 2.5 times the price you're getting 4 times the RAM and storage.
Hah, my kids complain about all the sites that want Shockwave, of which there is no Linux version available. We're a Linux-only family. We just move on. Same things for sites that want IE/ActiveX.
I don't think Joe Average or any business user is going to touch this laptop. IMHO, it's meant for the low-end of the market - young kids and old folks. It's perfect for them.
I concur regarding automatic payment. It takes me less than 30 minutes to pay my bills. I've got all the websites bookmarked, and Mozilla remembers the passwords for about half (all of them are stored in a secure text file that I just keep open when paying bills so I can quickly cut-n-paste the rest). I have 2 local paper bills (water/sewer/trash, and electric). The rest come in as email reminders, and worst case I have Gnucash to see what bill is coming up when (and to track assets, etc.). I review each bill to make sure it's not got some stupid new charges - for credit cards I just download all the charges into Gnucash and mark the categories that don't auto-match. I print out a paper copy and "print to pdf" of each bill if there isn't a "download as pdf" option (a few don't have that, like Citibank - or that don't work right and make you request a pdf, and then never have it ready for download). Then I pay the bill via CheckFree (free via my credit union), and print a paper copy and pdf of the confirmation number. Then I pop into Gnucash the pay date I scheduled, what the due date was, and edit the amount.
The only thing that would be cooler is if I could schedule the payment via Gnucash. When I used to use Quicken and when BankAmerica didn't charge me $12/month for it, I used to do that (pay it automatically via Quicken), and never access the bank website. Downside is that I didn't have electronic/paper copies of the transaction numbers unless I went online to get them. I like my credit union much better with CheckFree. BankAmerica used to withdrawl the funds 2-4 business days before the payee even deposited the check (I think they've changed that) - which had me dropping of a paper rent check on the 1st since payday way on the 1st as well. My credit union never removes the money until after the funds hit the payee (after the check is deposited if it is a paper check), and only allows the funds to go after the check pay date (so even if a check arrives "early" they cannot get the funds until the pay date).
One advantage I have over you is that both my local electric (MID) and gas (PG&E) offer "balanced payment plans" so that my bill is the same (so long as my usage stays mostly the same each month compared to the last year). It's always a pain when moving to a new place for the first year since you don't know what to expect, but after a year both bills tell you the usage amount last year for that month (so you can trim things if you need to). The downside is that in the summer I still pay for a gas bill, even though I haven't used a therm of gas in the last 4 months - but it's like a free credit account with the gas company, especially during the winter months when things spike - next month I'll have a $0 balance, but then we'll start using gas as things start to cool down.
Here are some very trivial uses for high-bandwidth: Automated downloads at night - I've a plugin for my MythTV that downloads all the HD trailers from Apple, and then I can watch them any time I please. What if places started to offer this for entire shows? SD shows are 1-2gb. What if a content provider starts offering HD subscriptions for download? I doubt you're going to watch that in real-time as it downloads, so it'll be queued up the night(s) before, but I could see that occuring.
Just that doesn't sound like much, but I've got a household of 6, and I'm sure it can all add up fast.
Not to mention I work from home. Cisco CallManager patches and engineering specials these days are 1-2gb. Unity 5 DVDs are many GB (over 8, I think). It all adds up.
While I can monitor my own firewall using MRTG or other utilities, I'd like to see what Comcast says my usage is. Any idea if they're going to provide this, or just "warn" you when you get to 249.99999gb?
I'm not sure if you saw the section in the clip using the Olympic rings as handcuffs. My guess is that is what they're upset about, not just the Olympic rings up on the buildings.
I don't know if it's legal or not, but I could see how any org would be upset if their org logo was used to handcuff someone.
See the clip at 1:11 to see the shot I'm talking about:
I don't think there is a need in California. Any time your policy lapses the insurance companies are required by law to notify DMV. Whenever you insure a vehicle DMV is also notified (I know this as I no longer have to show proof of insurance when renewing my cars).
I'm as the parent two back said, I'm generally in favour of this, but the technology could be use for scary purposes in the wrong hands.
Another concern I have is how many red light and speeding (actual dangerous issues) are being missed because traffic officers are busy pulling over and writing up minor violations?
If your insurance is lapsed, an easier solution is to mail a letter stating the car may not be driven until proof of insurance is provided, and send meter maids to those homes in a week and offer 3 choices: 1. Pay to renew your insurance on the spot 2. Change your registration status to non-op and have them install a boot locking the wheels 3. Have your vehicle towed
I'm thinking this would put an end to lack of insurance. A "fee" can be charged for this "service" the same as cable companies and the like charge a fee to get your service turned back on after you've been disconnected.
Slashdot Mirror
Doesn't work that way here in the States. You get your ATM card after you're done with all of your transactions... you may withdraw money, then make a deposit, then make a transfer, etc., and when you tell the machine you are all done it prints out (if you told it you wanted paper copies (duh!, always get a paper trail)), and then finally spits out the ATM card.
However, after hearing how it is done elsewhere, it should be that right after you put in your PIN and it is verified that it should kick out the card and make you take it before it'll take a deposit or dispense cash, etc. I'll suggest it to my credit union.
But if you read further on the Wiki page, even having a key and permission to be somewhere doesn't give you permission to take things that you're clearly not authorized to take (say a TV out of a home that a man had his father's keys and permission to be in... I believe that was a case example).
But he didn't not access the system with his own account - that right there shows that he knew what he was doing was crossing the line, otherwise he'd have done it with his own student account. If I take your keys w/o your permission and go into your house, am I not breaking the law? If I snoop your car pin (for those fancy cars that have that sort of thing) and then get in your car, am I not at least trespassing (and actually breaking and entering per the law, see the wiki page for that regarding vessels and vehicles).
IANAL, and I'm just guessing, but wouldn't that be tresspassing? I mean, if you're breaking and entering, I would assume that requires the breaking of something, right?
I'm not a lawyer, but according to the dictionary.com:
breaking and entering
n. 1) the criminal act of entering a residence or other enclosed property through the slightest amount of force (even pushing open a door), without authorization. If there is intent to commit a crime, this is burglary. If there is no such intent, the breaking and entering alone is probably at least illegal trespass, which is a misdemeanor crime.
Note the "even pushing open a door" bit. In Wikipedia's article on Burlgary, it states that in a store, going behind a shopkeepers counter (an area clearly not for customers) is trespass, which may be all he did.
However, to me it all comes down to intent (to steal or defraud, etc.). If a student logs in and sees in Network Neighborhood a server that allows them to double-click (is that a open door, or a closed door?) and access things with their own credentials (which this student could have used, but apparently tried to be sneaky and used another persons credentials so they won't be caught in the audit log). One place I read made it sound like he was trying to sell or hold ransom some information he'd found.
As a practical matter, nobody is 100% honorable, and somebody who's in charge of building voting machines should not be politically active.
I disagree with the last part. I would say that there should be safeguards such that no single person nor company can control or fix an election. Everyone has the right to participate in the election process, no matter the level.
The local county registrar (the top person in charge of voting, at least where I live) shouldn't be able to "fix" votes any more than any other person, and of course should also be able to vote. If the local county registrar did "fix" votes the others in their office should be able to detect this and blow the whistle.
As an aside, I heard recently that a bunch of town folks (in a nearby small community of less than 10K) objected to a local pastor running for city council (improperly citing separation of church and state). Again, I take issue with that, and say that the folks should just speak with their vote, and not try and tell someone they cannot run for office. State should not dictate the church/religion. There is nothing unconstitutional with church/religion telling state what to do (in a legal manner). Walk into any church right now and you'll find all of the pastors with any spine telling their congregation to vote their beliefs - not party, not canditate, but vote how they believe.
I guess the problem was that the folks who didn't get paid couldn't communicate well enough with the company who paid the money out. If that company had just cooperated then the funds could have been tracked to see where they were deposited, which would then lead to the criminals. I suspect that's what finally happened in the end.
But CDRs from where? To my knowledge, the telco doesn't maintain inbound CDRs or for local calls. It could be that the calls are from her local CO, and therefore would have no CDRs, or my be from anywhere else, and then only the remote CO and LD carrier would have those CDRs, but you have no clue which one it is.
About the only way to catch this would be to be monitoring calls on a line that receives one of these calls. But you cannot (legally) just monitor all lines to find them.
Further, there are a number of internet "telco" companies that let you set your CallerID info. In fact, you can even use a web interface at one site to have it call two numbers and join the calls (spoofing the CallerID of each to each other).
Unfortunately, you'd really have to have the help of a[ll] telco[s]. Which is about as likely to occur as getting someone to tell you who owns an 800#.
Just a warning, as great as having the same Flash as Windows, etc., Flash 10 breaks compatibility with a number of websites apps. Specifically I've found a problem with CitiBank's Virtual credit card app (it mis-detects Flash 10 as 1.0). BankAmerica's Shopsafe (same concept, temp credit card numbers) works, but also throws errors in different sections saying I need flash 6.4 or greater and that 1.x doesn't cut it.
This occurs with Windows as well as Linux (I tried to get it to work under a Windows VM, but when I installed Flash 10, it had the same problems).
Asking a non-technical cop, "Here's the IP address that he is using, please subpoena Comcast to find out his name and address," is like asking the sun not to shine. It's just not going to happen and your item isn't a big enough ticket for them.
Further, I would use the argument that the IP address proves nothing. I've 2-3 neighbors with open APs that I can see from time to time depending on where I sit in my house (1 right now). A few times I've been upset because my laptop decided to use one of them instead when I was trying to get my wireless working (which I didn't want to occur). You chase down one of those with no stolen laptop at the residence and the cops aren't going to go any further for you. They want a hard item to look for.
Triangulation with a GPS connected to your laptop and wireless card is very trivial to do.
As another person pointed out, 3a and 3b are difficult. However, if you have remote access, a list of nearby APs/SSIDs would be useful. If the folks are near any open APs that are listed in many DBs online, then you can go war driving and triangulate your laptop (since you'll already know where to start near the open AP).
Once you can show the cops "I have the signal coming from there, and it's got to be one of these 3 locations" then I'm sure as the other person posted, they'll just check out the address for know thief-types. Once they have a match, they'll get a warrant to search based on the triangulation and the known offender.
Even if the person is not a known offender, you could always confront them yourself if the cops won't do anything. Social engineer your way in and offer some sort of demo for free (Kirby sales, magazine sales, etc.) and see if you spot your laptop or can trangulate it better. Having a cute g/f do the social engineering is probably more successful. Probably talking to a few nearby neighbors you could narrow down who the "untrustworthy" types are, and they may even let you try to triangulate from their backyard.
I wonder how long until you can get a built-in GPS for your laptop? That'd solve the problem altogether... might even be PCMCIA card ($99), but unless it is built-in or hidden, the perp will probably pull it out.
Here's a hint - have a guest account listed with the password in the description of the account. Make it non-admin/root (no user should have that access anyway, you're just asking for trouble).
Physical security is really everything anyway.
If someone steals my laptop, I want them to log in as my guest user. My PC is going to phone home and let me catch the thief.
I was just going to suggest this as well. Just order a basic DSL circuit and put them behind a cheap-o firewall and leave them at their own devices.
Use Cisco NAC to keep their unauthorized devices off of your trusted network (or put them in an external guestnet with only internet access if NAC authentication fails).
Will Firefox w/NoScript installed block this sort of misbehavior?
My account in the Modesto area shows:
The Comcast Newsgroups service will be discontinued on 10/25/2008.
We apologize for the any inconvenience.
Comcast Newsgroups Usage Meter
You have used 44.1 MB (megabytes) this period.
(I don't use it much).
I found this via the "My Account" link and then "Comcast Newsgroups usage meter".
When will Comcast add an overall (non just NNTP) bandwidth meter so I know how close I am to the 250gb cap?
I was going to make this point myself. We don't have real TV's hooked up to Comcast. We use watch most things online and/or have a custom MythTV box that records and streams things all over the house to laptops and bigscreen displays on PCs. We've a family of 6 (4 not yet teens, but they'll all be there in 3-5 more years). I often work from home, and I do download very large files for work (Cisco patches are 1-2gb DVDs). We're moving to a much larger house (everyone will have their own bedroom plus one spare) and may from time to time have a guest staying with us as well.
Part of the problem I see as well is Comcast won't give you more than one account per address. Give me an account I can stick the rest of the family on and they can hammer all day long, and give me an account I can do my work on.
This would be a great DB to have for my custom lojack that reports back to my server the AP SSID and MAC address that any of my laptops are talking to. I'd be able to go to the location myself and verify the AP MAC address is still there, triangulate where the source is, and then notify the police so they could get a search warrant and recover my laptop.
We actually have a department policy that we are are to check email every 2 hours and respond to immediate/emergency type requests at that time. Every 4 hours we have to deal with non-critical items and respond to everything (deal with it, schedule it, get it where it needs to go). We're not to check email any other time, but stay on task.
I think it's great. I had to turn off my vibrate for work email on my Blackberry, and keep my Outlook minimized so I don't see new emails, but it helps a ton to keep focused.
We also don't take calls except from within our department (which must be urge to call or IM, otherwise must be emailed), or from customers who we're expecting a call from. All other calls go to VM (which is integrated with email) and follow the 2 hour/4 hour rule.
You'll be amazed at how much more work you get done. And how much more you respond to everything, just with a 2 or 4 hour delay in response.
Not "exactly" the same. The video describes the laptop has having much lower specs than what you've linked to (512mb of RAM vs. 128mb RAM, 4gb HDD vs. 1gb flash). Of course, for 2.5 times the price you're getting 4 times the RAM and storage.
Hah, my kids complain about all the sites that want Shockwave, of which there is no Linux version available. We're a Linux-only family. We just move on. Same things for sites that want IE/ActiveX.
I don't think Joe Average or any business user is going to touch this laptop. IMHO, it's meant for the low-end of the market - young kids and old folks. It's perfect for them.
Here's the problem:
"COPYRIGHT NOTICE
© 2008, STATE OF CALIFORNIA.
This material may not be commercially reproduced or sold in print or electronic forms without
written permission of ThomsonlWest."
http://bulk.resource.org/codes.gov/ccr/ca.ccr.01.pdf page 2
I concur regarding automatic payment. It takes me less than 30 minutes to pay my bills. I've got all the websites bookmarked, and Mozilla remembers the passwords for about half (all of them are stored in a secure text file that I just keep open when paying bills so I can quickly cut-n-paste the rest). I have 2 local paper bills (water/sewer/trash, and electric). The rest come in as email reminders, and worst case I have Gnucash to see what bill is coming up when (and to track assets, etc.). I review each bill to make sure it's not got some stupid new charges - for credit cards I just download all the charges into Gnucash and mark the categories that don't auto-match. I print out a paper copy and "print to pdf" of each bill if there isn't a "download as pdf" option (a few don't have that, like Citibank - or that don't work right and make you request a pdf, and then never have it ready for download). Then I pay the bill via CheckFree (free via my credit union), and print a paper copy and pdf of the confirmation number. Then I pop into Gnucash the pay date I scheduled, what the due date was, and edit the amount.
The only thing that would be cooler is if I could schedule the payment via Gnucash. When I used to use Quicken and when BankAmerica didn't charge me $12/month for it, I used to do that (pay it automatically via Quicken), and never access the bank website. Downside is that I didn't have electronic/paper copies of the transaction numbers unless I went online to get them. I like my credit union much better with CheckFree. BankAmerica used to withdrawl the funds 2-4 business days before the payee even deposited the check (I think they've changed that) - which had me dropping of a paper rent check on the 1st since payday way on the 1st as well. My credit union never removes the money until after the funds hit the payee (after the check is deposited if it is a paper check), and only allows the funds to go after the check pay date (so even if a check arrives "early" they cannot get the funds until the pay date).
One advantage I have over you is that both my local electric (MID) and gas (PG&E) offer "balanced payment plans" so that my bill is the same (so long as my usage stays mostly the same each month compared to the last year). It's always a pain when moving to a new place for the first year since you don't know what to expect, but after a year both bills tell you the usage amount last year for that month (so you can trim things if you need to). The downside is that in the summer I still pay for a gas bill, even though I haven't used a therm of gas in the last 4 months - but it's like a free credit account with the gas company, especially during the winter months when things spike - next month I'll have a $0 balance, but then we'll start using gas as things start to cool down.
Here are some very trivial uses for high-bandwidth:
Automated downloads at night - I've a plugin for my MythTV that downloads all the HD trailers from Apple, and then I can watch them any time I please.
What if places started to offer this for entire shows? SD shows are 1-2gb. What if a content provider starts offering HD subscriptions for download? I doubt you're going to watch that in real-time as it downloads, so it'll be queued up the night(s) before, but I could see that occuring.
Just that doesn't sound like much, but I've got a household of 6, and I'm sure it can all add up fast.
Not to mention I work from home. Cisco CallManager patches and engineering specials these days are 1-2gb. Unity 5 DVDs are many GB (over 8, I think). It all adds up.
While I can monitor my own firewall using MRTG or other utilities, I'd like to see what Comcast says my usage is. Any idea if they're going to provide this, or just "warn" you when you get to 249.99999gb?
I'm not sure if you saw the section in the clip using the Olympic rings as handcuffs. My guess is that is what they're upset about, not just the Olympic rings up on the buildings.
I don't know if it's legal or not, but I could see how any org would be upset if their org logo was used to handcuff someone.
See the clip at 1:11 to see the shot I'm talking about:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j60x3C43Qao
I'm not saying it's right or wrong one way or another, just pointing out a fact not everyone might have noticed.
I don't think there is a need in California. Any time your policy lapses the insurance companies are required by law to notify DMV. Whenever you insure a vehicle DMV is also notified (I know this as I no longer have to show proof of insurance when renewing my cars).
I'm as the parent two back said, I'm generally in favour of this, but the technology could be use for scary purposes in the wrong hands.
Another concern I have is how many red light and speeding (actual dangerous issues) are being missed because traffic officers are busy pulling over and writing up minor violations?
If your insurance is lapsed, an easier solution is to mail a letter stating the car may not be driven until proof of insurance is provided, and send meter maids to those homes in a week and offer 3 choices:
1. Pay to renew your insurance on the spot
2. Change your registration status to non-op and have them install a boot locking the wheels
3. Have your vehicle towed
I'm thinking this would put an end to lack of insurance. A "fee" can be charged for this "service" the same as cable companies and the like charge a fee to get your service turned back on after you've been disconnected.