I have a small subpannel. It's made by Square D. IT's the QO Generator panel series. Mine has 2 main 60A main breakers interlocked so only one can be on at a time. I feed 4 critical circuits off the panel, not the entire house. The circuits include the main living area lights, kitchen outlets (one of the 2 circuits), Computer den and living room entertainment center. Not having the whole house on the panel gives the advantage of knowing when the power comes back on. The hall lights come on.
My father has a similar setup at home (just a regular gas generator though). He just flips a swich and has a heavy-duty power line to plug the whole house into a generator.
This is exactly what I have except now I plug in the car.
SAFETY ALERT!!!! Most inverters hot nutral. Grounding the nutral of most inverters will damage it. They drive both sides of the plug. Do not ground the nutral. If feeding a house where nutral is grounded (all of them) the car through the inverter becomes HOT. Don't touch the car!!. It will be about 60 VAC hot. I start the car, open the trunk, turn on the inverter, plug in the house not touching the car. Reverse the process to shut down. Do not touch the car while the house is connected to the inverter! You have been warned! As always read and follow the instructions that come with your inverter. I have to lift the ground wire between the car and house.
From what I've been able to find, the 12V system can support a charging rate of about 70A which translates to a power load of 840W
I went to Costco. They had a sale on 1KW inverters for about $70. I trunk mounted it. I fused it at 100A. It too was concerned regarding the capacity of the 12 volt system, so I did my research. The DC converter is rated for 100 amps or almost 1.4KW. The system is larger than most conventional car systems because it has some electric heat, electric compressor for the power brakes (not vaccuum boost) and electric power steering instead of hydraulic. With the car parked, all these high current loads go away. I set the parking brake so even the daytime running lights don't come on. (another aprox 100 watts) so just by shutting down most of the high draw items in the car (heater/AC included) it's all there for other uses with no overload. High peaks such as starting a freezer is why I went to a 1KW inverter. My average load is more in the 400-600 watt range and well within the system design of the car. Having the surge capacity with the large inverter and battery is good for starting the large motors.
I've overloaded it once using a skill saw. I got halfway through a sheet of plywood and the system voltage sagged enough to trip off the inverter.
I never short stocks. Bought stocks can go to zero and all you loose is the entire principal. If on a fluke you shorted SCO and by another fluke they won in court, you can loose many times your investment. You could owe your entire future. The sky is the limit on your potential losses. I'd rather diversify than have the potential for unlimited losses. The potential of unlimited growth is why I'm in the market. The thought of unlimited loss is pretty scarry.
Most people live in cities and suburbs, not country. The Toyota Prius is rated to get getter milage in town than on the highway. Less wind resistance. As long as I'm not dashing and stopping light to light, I've found it to be the case. Put me in a parade going just under 20 mph and I get fantastic milage.
On 55 MPH highways I get much better milage than on 70 MPH freeways. In town in varies a lot depending on if it's creep and slow (not often) or dash and stop which is bad for everyone.
Now for some truth. (disclaimer I drive a hybrid) On the freeway, the hybrid system doesn't do much. It's all plowing wind and the engine never shuts down.
However in city traffic jam traffic, it shines big time. That awful creep and stop at metered on ramps and passing the wreck is usualy done with the engine off most of the time. This is where regular cars are very ineffecient. Unfortunately most of our time on the road isn't in these conditions in the USA. Now as part of the reality check, I have missed the EPA estimates by about 10 MPG. It's still double the milage I got on my last car. At current gas prices, the payback period has droped from never to something in the car's lifetime. If gas goes up more, the payback time will shorten much more. I don't regret my used Prius purchase.
I replaced a 2.3 Liter 4 cyl Ford Mustang with a 1.5 Liter Toyota Prius. Mpg went from 24-28 to 43-48 for my commute. Getting 400 miles on a tank is normal. I haven't risked running out of gas to try for 500 miles, but I've had enough gas left at the next fill to have done it.
The big savings I found for mine is as a standby generator. During an outage, I ran a TV, refrigerator, lots of lights, and chest freezer off the car. The engine did not run all the time. It would start, cycle for a few minutes and shut back down. Overnight my best guess is I used 2 gallons of gas. Most portable generators would require a refill every 3-6 hours to do the same job. At that consumption rate, I would not worry about refilling it for several days of constant running as an emergency generator. That could never be done with a conventional car.
I guess it was only a matter of time until they converted such units to a home game model...
A simple passive repeater is no problem to install in a dead zone such as a basement.
A high gain antenna on the roof pointing to the cell tower is connected to an omni antenna in the basement. This provides signal in the dead zone.
A small dish works great as it can be pointed to the tower providing high signal strength to feed the basement antenna. Be sure to use antennas cut to the freuency your cell provider is using. Use a large diamater low loss cable or all system gains will be lost in the first 15 feet of the cable. In extreme cases, eliptical waveguide may be used but it greatly adds to the cost of the project. To prevent cable loss, keep the cable as short as possible. Many houses have high attenuation because of masonary walls or aluminum backed insulation in the walls. A roof mount dish coupled with about 6 feet of wire to a ceiling mounted antenna are sometimes all that is needed to couple the signal from outside into the living space covering even the basement with good signal.
Seems like a banner click thru scam, but this time it's with a 1-800 number. Brilliant.
Yeah, brilliant. After all the angry calls come in, what do you want to bet the FAX broadcaster gets no repeat business from the travel timeshare company? It's important to make sure this type of advertising does not pay off. It's unimportant the FAXer is getting a fee for each call. What is important is the business that hired him may haul him into court for fraud or otherwise won't pay because of the injury caused. They certanly are not going to be a repeat customer.
That's the problem of artificialy trying to change the rating of a page. What nobody cares about tries to get on top making the searches irrevelant.
For example, I was trying to find the shelf life on different types of batteries. The first couple pages of results had noting to do with battery shelf life. No if I was actualy ready to buy a battery, I was deffinately in the right place, but research results simply get buried in the advertising driven pages making the research difficult by providing worthless results. Come on guys, quit wrecking Google results. Stick to Froogle so I can find you when I want to buy, but please stop contaminating the research results.
but I use rechargable alkalines, which are good for about 100 rechargings, so I don't expect to buy batteries in my lifetime.
Don't bet on it. The battery is still a chemical reaction. It may get 100 cycles in daily operation, but I don't think the shelf life is anywhere near 100 years. I remember when Lithium cells came out many years ago. They were great because they had up to a 10 year shelf life. It was great for the flashlight next to the fuse box. All too often a regular flashlight on a shelf or in a drawer would be dead when needed simply because of shelf life.
Regular non-rechargable alkaline batteries have a shelf life of less than 10 years. Rechargables usualy have shorter shelf life.
Kodak brags up it's alkaline battery as having a long 7 year shelf life.
Link is here- http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/b atteries/photoAlkaline.jhtml
In summary, don't bother spending big bucks on rechargable batteries for low power draw items such as smoke detectors and low power LED flashlights. You simply won't get many charge/discharge cycles before they are too old to function properly. It's cheaper to buy and replace long shelf life primary batteries for the flashlight next to the fuse box than fight with self discharged and old rechargable batteries.
Yes, but giving copies of the slide show to the bride and parents isn't a copyright violation how? I always get asked for a copy of the slideshow. I always provide it. It' probably outside the law.
Re:Handy for travellers...
on
GPS for GBA
·
· Score: 1
Just 'cause you're seeing the world doesn't mean you need to go without games. Travelling can be amazing, but there's long, boring periods where a waterproof GPS (that may or may not be able to have maps uploaded to it) really isn't as much fun as a GBA.
I guess the point I was trying to make, is if I want to leave the Game Boy home and take just the GPS, I can still use a stand alone handheld GPS but not with the Game Boy dongle. Most stand alone handheld GPS units have an output so they can be tethered to a laptop or handheld if desired. The other problem is if (I know true geeks don't have wifes and kids) you have kids, it's hard to use the GPS while they play with the GBA. I thought the GBA used expensive memory (propritory) instead of off the shelf camera flash of one type or another. My handheld computer and my camera uses the same type memory. GBA is yet another memory format that won't interchange with any of my other devices.
Re:I knew it!
on
GPS for GBA
·
· Score: 2, Informative
"I take 4 AA batteries yet my light only lasts a whole 2 hours" flashlight attachment.
Dude! Trade that in. Eveready makes a nice folding LED reading/tent light. (it looks like a miniture folding flouresent lantern) It claims 200 hours on a set of batteries. I can't verify the claim as I'm still on my first set of batteries from last summer.
Re:Handy for travellers...
on
GPS for GBA
·
· Score: 2, Interesting
Backpackers and other travellers
Why would a backpacker want to deal with water damage and fragile connections? For about the same price, get a handheld map GPS that is waterproof and floats. I use a handheld GPS. If I want to connect it to a laptop or handheld, I can connect the cable, but a GPS that does not work when your gameboy dies doesn't seem very useful. The ability to interconnect is nice. Leaving some weight home and still having a useful tool is even better.
While a sculptor or photographer can contractually agree to assign his copyright, you will lose in court big time if you simply are hoping that the contractual recitation that this was a "work for hire" somehow works to automatically vest the copyright in you.
I just re-read my post which you replied to. Here is the important part.
[snip]Do expect to pay more for the service, but get the copyright in writing.[/snip]
You are absolutely right. A simple work for hire does not cover all the bases. Get the transfer of copyright in writing.
While a sculptor or photographer can contractually agree to assign his copyright
I did say AND didn't I? It is a work for hire AND includes all copyrights in the contract. Did I miss something? This is not just a Work for Hire. It is a Work for Hire including transfer of Copyright.
You do have a good point. You need both clauses in the contract. One to pay for time and lab (traditional pro photographer job) and transfer of copyright.
First part pays pays the photographer for the job and contracts a certain number of prints (finished product) and the second part enables the purchaser to post the pictures on the web, make photo CD's, make reprints, digitaly archive the work for protection against fading (my biggest beef with pro-photography, 10 year old framed prints always fade) Acquiring the copyright permits reprinting from digital media to replace lost prints due to age even if you persue your career and can't chase down the original photographer for legal reprints.
Most pro photographers try to own anything they shoot. This is a broken business model. If they shoot people, they have to get a model release to sell the photos. When was the last time your wedding photographer did this? (Oops) They do not have the right to sell the likeness of the people in the photos without a model release. On the other hand, photographers should simply do weddings and such as a work for hire and not own the copyright. When I hire a photographer, I bring my own contract to that effect. My works for hire buys the copyright. Many photographers won't go along. Some want sky high prices to discourage the contract. If we can't settle, then I take bids. Do expect to pay more for the service, but get the copyright in writing. Hire it for albums and web. Offer to buy a fixed number of prints to support the studio. With the current copyright issue, taking a families photo album, scanning the photos including school and sports photos, and showing them as a slide show at a wedding is a copyright violation. It's also common. Quick, can you find your friends 3rd grade school photographer to get permission to use the school photo in her wedding slide show? The business model is very broken and needs to change to adjust to the reality of how photos are shown nowdays. It shouldn't be a crime to show kid growing up photos including school and sports photos. Changing the law simply makes what is now being done legal. Is there anyone out there that put together a slide show for a wedding and actualy found and paid the school photographer to produce a slide show? (I'm guilty as anybody on this one. How do you find them?) Do you simply leave out school and sports photos? Is making a slide show not a copy but just another way of presenting the photos? If you are a school photographer and are at a family wedding, do you say anything regarding the inclusion of school photos in a slide show?
The law is broken and needs to change.
Non-works for hire such as nature photos should still be pieces of art and protected as a piece of art such as a painting, movie, or song. My wedding for hire photos should be mine, not the photographers.
It takes a lot of resouces to keep people shackled
It must be for the signature file of every copyrighted song, e-book, photo, and article so the DRM cop can identify it and report the violation to the proper **AA.
Most folks I work with/for are still on Pentium II or III machines, with 256MB of RAM being "a TON of memory, dude!"
I mostly need more online storage. I'm not looking to a hoter desktop unit. I'm looking for a bigger hard drive for the central server! FOr the house, it makes sense to store the media on a server instead of individual workstations.
Sony is a good, solid brand. I own and love a Sony digital camera
I'm glad you are happy with it. I had one. It used a propritory battery. It used (at the time) propritory memory. It was OK for getting cute kid snapshots once in a while, but the first time I tried to shoot a parade, a weeks vacation or a wedding, I was dead in the water after about 30 minutes. Spare batteries are $40 a pop. Memory was almost double in cost of anything else I used.
Enter new camera. It uses CF the same as my handleld computer. It uses AA batteries, same as my GPS, FRS radios, flashlight, LED safety strobe, etc. Finding enough borrowable memory and batteries for a parade or wedding is now no problem. I can easly find 5 sets of rechargable batteries (about $10/set of 4 not $40 each) and about a half dozen CF cards of various sizes.
I stick to MP3's for the same reason I stick to AA batteries and CF cards. I can use them in more than one place and in more than one device as needed. I have no need for single application format hardware or content that is incompatible by design. I don't have to worry if the memory card recorded in device A won't play it back in device B.
Here is a hint, my DVD in the living room plays CDR's of MP3's. So does my portable CD, computers, and car. You are trying to sell me content that won't work there? Why would I want to buy into this new format?
Judging by the size of the hybrids that I've seen, I doubt that after being hit by any of the overly large gas guzzling SUV's on the road today, there will be much car to actually cut.
Don't laugh, but to improve performance, milage, and emissions, Ford has lisenced the Hybrid technology from Toyota. Don't be suprised when your new SUV gets 25-35 MPG around town and is rated a SULEV instead of a polluting gas hog. Some buses are already Hybrids in Japan.
In the Toyota Prius, The HV breaker is tied into the system. They claim it usualy operates prior to the air bag deployment (while the computer figures the impact force the sensing of any impact disconnects the HV pack).
Racing cars have a standard placed cut off for the motor/fuel line inside the drivers door for rescuers, why not something like that for the hybrids?
There is. In my Prius, it's in the trunk on the left side of the battery pack. Pull out the orange disconnect plug. Upon loss of the 12 volt system, the high voltage circuit breaker in the trunk opens so simply cutting the small 12 volt battery cable will do the trick.
In the Honda Insite, the disconnect switch is in the back under a small square cover.
But after an accident, any part of the wiring harness could be energized relative to the frame -- you just don't know, for example, if the dome light circuit is going to happen to be connected to the same bank of circuits that were smushed into the Big Orange Cable in a front-quarter collision that also happened to damage the fail-safe circuit breakers.
Troll or FUD, I'm not sure, but I'll bite. The dome light circuit goes from under the dash and up. The big orange cables go under the floor in conduit. This is like saying don't touch your metal case toaster in the morning because a car might crash into a utility pole putting thousands of volts on your toaster. True, it could happen. It's happening is very rare and mostly improbable. The high voltage when tangled into low voltage tends to blow circit protection devices very quickly resulting in a blackout. The Prius is no different in this regard. High voltage high current into low voltage circuits woud quickly burn away only if the high voltage protection failed to operate. Cutting into a grounded metal roof and hitting a dome light wire with the high voltage on it would provide a fault current high enough to vaporise the small gauge wire in a split second. Other than a suprising flash and puff of smoke, the operator of the cutting tool (grounded to the roof being cut) would only wonder what went pop. Anything that tore up the car enough to tangel the high voltage wire and the dome light wouldn't need cutting tools to enter anyway. It would already be open.
Slashdot Mirror
I'd be glad to explain.
I have a small subpannel. It's made by Square D. IT's the QO Generator panel series. Mine has 2 main 60A main breakers interlocked so only one can be on at a time. I feed 4 critical circuits off the panel, not the entire house. The circuits include the main living area lights, kitchen outlets (one of the 2 circuits), Computer den and living room entertainment center. Not having the whole house on the panel gives the advantage of knowing when the power comes back on. The hall lights come on.
My father has a similar setup at home (just a regular gas generator though). He just flips a swich and has a heavy-duty power line to plug the whole house into a generator.
This is exactly what I have except now I plug in the car.
SAFETY ALERT!!!! Most inverters hot nutral. Grounding the nutral of most inverters will damage it. They drive both sides of the plug. Do not ground the nutral. If feeding a house where nutral is grounded (all of them) the car through the inverter becomes HOT. Don't touch the car!!. It will be about 60 VAC hot.
I start the car, open the trunk, turn on the inverter, plug in the house not touching the car. Reverse the process to shut down. Do not touch the car while the house is connected to the inverter! You have been warned! As always read and follow the instructions that come with your inverter. I have to lift the ground wire between the car and house.
From what I've been able to find, the 12V system can support a charging rate of about 70A which translates to a power load of 840W
I went to Costco. They had a sale on 1KW inverters for about $70. I trunk mounted it. I fused it at 100A. It too was concerned regarding the capacity of the 12 volt system, so I did my research. The DC converter is rated for 100 amps or almost 1.4KW. The system is larger than most conventional car systems because it has some electric heat, electric compressor for the power brakes (not vaccuum boost) and electric power steering instead of hydraulic. With the car parked, all these high current loads go away. I set the parking brake so even the daytime running lights don't come on. (another aprox 100 watts) so just by shutting down most of the high draw items in the car (heater/AC included) it's all there for other uses with no overload. High peaks such as starting a freezer is why I went to a 1KW inverter. My average load is more in the 400-600 watt range and well within the system design of the car. Having the surge capacity with the large inverter and battery is good for starting the large motors.
I've overloaded it once using a skill saw. I got halfway through a sheet of plywood and the system voltage sagged enough to trip off the inverter.
I never short stocks. Bought stocks can go to zero and all you loose is the entire principal. If on a fluke you shorted SCO and by another fluke they won in court, you can loose many times your investment. You could owe your entire future. The sky is the limit on your potential losses. I'd rather diversify than have the potential for unlimited losses. The potential of unlimited growth is why I'm in the market. The thought of unlimited loss is pretty scarry.
I have often gotten 48-53mpg on long trips.
Most people live in cities and suburbs, not country. The Toyota Prius is rated to get getter milage in town than on the highway. Less wind resistance. As long as I'm not dashing and stopping light to light, I've found it to be the case. Put me in a parade going just under 20 mph and I get fantastic milage.
On 55 MPH highways I get much better milage than on 70 MPH freeways. In town in varies a lot depending on if it's creep and slow (not often) or dash and stop which is bad for everyone.
Now for some truth. (disclaimer I drive a hybrid) On the freeway, the hybrid system doesn't do much. It's all plowing wind and the engine never shuts down.
However in city traffic jam traffic, it shines big time. That awful creep and stop at metered on ramps and passing the wreck is usualy done with the engine off most of the time. This is where regular cars are very ineffecient. Unfortunately most of our time on the road isn't in these conditions in the USA. Now as part of the reality check, I have missed the EPA estimates by about 10 MPG. It's still double the milage I got on my last car. At current gas prices, the payback period has droped from never to something in the car's lifetime. If gas goes up more, the payback time will shorten much more. I don't regret my used Prius purchase.
I replaced a 2.3 Liter 4 cyl Ford Mustang with a 1.5 Liter Toyota Prius. Mpg went from 24-28 to 43-48 for my commute. Getting 400 miles on a tank is normal. I haven't risked running out of gas to try for 500 miles, but I've had enough gas left at the next fill to have done it.
The big savings I found for mine is as a standby generator. During an outage, I ran a TV, refrigerator, lots of lights, and chest freezer off the car. The engine did not run all the time. It would start, cycle for a few minutes and shut back down. Overnight my best guess is I used 2 gallons of gas. Most portable generators would require a refill every 3-6 hours to do the same job. At that consumption rate, I would not worry about refilling it for several days of constant running as an emergency generator. That could never be done with a conventional car.
I guess it was only a matter of time until they converted such units to a home game model...
A simple passive repeater is no problem to install in a dead zone such as a basement.
A high gain antenna on the roof pointing to the cell tower is connected to an omni antenna in the basement. This provides signal in the dead zone.
A small dish works great as it can be pointed to the tower providing high signal strength to feed the basement antenna. Be sure to use antennas cut to the freuency your cell provider is using. Use a large diamater low loss cable or all system gains will be lost in the first 15 feet of the cable. In extreme cases, eliptical waveguide may be used but it greatly adds to the cost of the project. To prevent cable loss, keep the cable as short as possible. Many houses have high attenuation because of masonary walls or aluminum backed insulation in the walls. A roof mount dish coupled with about 6 feet of wire to a ceiling mounted antenna are sometimes all that is needed to couple the signal from outside into the living space covering even the basement with good signal.
Seems like a banner click thru scam, but this time it's with a 1-800 number. Brilliant.
Yeah, brilliant. After all the angry calls come in, what do you want to bet the FAX broadcaster gets no repeat business from the travel timeshare company? It's important to make sure this type of advertising does not pay off. It's unimportant the FAXer is getting a fee for each call. What is important is the business that hired him may haul him into court for fraud or otherwise won't pay because of the injury caused. They certanly are not going to be a repeat customer.
That's the problem of artificialy trying to change the rating of a page. What nobody cares about tries to get on top making the searches irrevelant.
For example, I was trying to find the shelf life on different types of batteries. The first couple pages of results had noting to do with battery shelf life. No if I was actualy ready to buy a battery, I was deffinately in the right place, but research results simply get buried in the advertising driven pages making the research difficult by providing worthless results. Come on guys, quit wrecking Google results. Stick to Froogle so I can find you when I want to buy, but please stop contaminating the research results.
but I use rechargable alkalines, which are good for about 100 rechargings, so I don't expect to buy batteries in my lifetime.
b atteries/photoAlkaline.jhtml
Don't bet on it. The battery is still a chemical reaction. It may get 100 cycles in daily operation, but I don't think the shelf life is anywhere near 100 years. I remember when Lithium cells came out many years ago. They were great because they had up to a 10 year shelf life. It was great for the flashlight next to the fuse box. All too often a regular flashlight on a shelf or in a drawer would be dead when needed simply because of shelf life.
Regular non-rechargable alkaline batteries have a shelf life of less than 10 years. Rechargables usualy have shorter shelf life.
Kodak brags up it's alkaline battery as having a long 7 year shelf life.
Link is here- http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/
In summary, don't bother spending big bucks on rechargable batteries for low power draw items such as smoke detectors and low power LED flashlights. You simply won't get many charge/discharge cycles before they are too old to function properly. It's cheaper to buy and replace long shelf life primary batteries for the flashlight next to the fuse box than fight with self discharged and old rechargable batteries.
Yes, but giving copies of the slide show to the bride and parents isn't a copyright violation how? I always get asked for a copy of the slideshow. I always provide it. It' probably outside the law.
Just 'cause you're seeing the world doesn't mean you need to go without games. Travelling can be amazing, but there's long, boring periods where a waterproof GPS (that may or may not be able to have maps uploaded to it) really isn't as much fun as a GBA.
I guess the point I was trying to make, is if I want to leave the Game Boy home and take just the GPS, I can still use a stand alone handheld GPS but not with the Game Boy dongle. Most stand alone handheld GPS units have an output so they can be tethered to a laptop or handheld if desired. The other problem is if (I know true geeks don't have wifes and kids) you have kids, it's hard to use the GPS while they play with the GBA. I thought the GBA used expensive memory (propritory) instead of off the shelf camera flash of one type or another. My handheld computer and my camera uses the same type memory. GBA is yet another memory format that won't interchange with any of my other devices.
"I take 4 AA batteries yet my light only lasts a whole 2 hours" flashlight attachment.
Dude! Trade that in. Eveready makes a nice folding LED reading/tent light. (it looks like a miniture folding flouresent lantern) It claims 200 hours on a set of batteries. I can't verify the claim as I'm still on my first set of batteries from last summer.
Backpackers and other travellers
Why would a backpacker want to deal with water damage and fragile connections? For about the same price, get a handheld map GPS that is waterproof and floats. I use a handheld GPS. If I want to connect it to a laptop or handheld, I can connect the cable, but a GPS that does not work when your gameboy dies doesn't seem very useful. The ability to interconnect is nice. Leaving some weight home and still having a useful tool is even better.
While a sculptor or photographer can contractually agree to assign his copyright, you will lose in court big time if you simply are hoping that the contractual recitation that this was a "work for hire" somehow works to automatically vest the copyright in you.
I just re-read my post which you replied to. Here is the important part.
[snip]Do expect to pay more for the service, but get the copyright in writing.[/snip]
You are absolutely right. A simple work for hire does not cover all the bases. Get the transfer of copyright in writing.
While a sculptor or photographer can contractually agree to assign his copyright
I did say AND didn't I? It is a work for hire AND includes all copyrights in the contract. Did I miss something? This is not just a Work for Hire. It is a Work for Hire including transfer of Copyright.
You do have a good point. You need both clauses in the contract. One to pay for time and lab (traditional pro photographer job) and transfer of copyright.
First part pays pays the photographer for the job and contracts a certain number of prints (finished product) and the second part enables the purchaser to post the pictures on the web, make photo CD's, make reprints, digitaly archive the work for protection against fading (my biggest beef with pro-photography, 10 year old framed prints always fade) Acquiring the copyright permits reprinting from digital media to replace lost prints due to age even if you persue your career and can't chase down the original photographer for legal reprints.
Most pro photographers try to own anything they shoot. This is a broken business model. If they shoot people, they have to get a model release to sell the photos. When was the last time your wedding photographer did this? (Oops) They do not have the right to sell the likeness of the people in the photos without a model release. On the other hand, photographers should simply do weddings and such as a work for hire and not own the copyright. When I hire a photographer, I bring my own contract to that effect. My works for hire buys the copyright. Many photographers won't go along. Some want sky high prices to discourage the contract. If we can't settle, then I take bids. Do expect to pay more for the service, but get the copyright in writing. Hire it for albums and web. Offer to buy a fixed number of prints to support the studio. With the current copyright issue, taking a families photo album, scanning the photos including school and sports photos, and showing them as a slide show at a wedding is a copyright violation. It's also common. Quick, can you find your friends 3rd grade school photographer to get permission to use the school photo in her wedding slide show? The business model is very broken and needs to change to adjust to the reality of how photos are shown nowdays. It shouldn't be a crime to show kid growing up photos including school and sports photos. Changing the law simply makes what is now being done legal. Is there anyone out there that put together a slide show for a wedding and actualy found and paid the school photographer to produce a slide show? (I'm guilty as anybody on this one. How do you find them?) Do you simply leave out school and sports photos? Is making a slide show not a copy but just another way of presenting the photos? If you are a school photographer and are at a family wedding, do you say anything regarding the inclusion of school photos in a slide show?
The law is broken and needs to change.
Non-works for hire such as nature photos should still be pieces of art and protected as a piece of art such as a painting, movie, or song. My wedding for hire photos should be mine, not the photographers.
If you're an educated user, shoring up your home network is extremely simple:
;-)
It's very simple and secure.. Remove the floppy and CD drives, Then remove the cable modem, or dial up modem, or DSL modem.
Part of my home network is this way so I am sure to have a running machine to use to scan the other machines when things go wrong.
It takes a lot of resouces to keep people shackled
It must be for the signature file of every copyrighted song, e-book, photo, and article so the DRM cop can identify it and report the violation to the proper **AA.
Most folks I work with/for are still on Pentium II or III machines, with 256MB of RAM being "a TON of memory, dude!"
I mostly need more online storage. I'm not looking to a hoter desktop unit. I'm looking for a bigger hard drive for the central server! FOr the house, it makes sense to store the media on a server instead of individual workstations.
Sony is a good, solid brand. I own and love a Sony digital camera
I'm glad you are happy with it. I had one. It used a propritory battery. It used (at the time) propritory memory. It was OK for getting cute kid snapshots once in a while, but the first time I tried to shoot a parade, a weeks vacation or a wedding, I was dead in the water after about 30 minutes. Spare batteries are $40 a pop. Memory was almost double in cost of anything else I used.
Enter new camera. It uses CF the same as my handleld computer. It uses AA batteries, same as my GPS, FRS radios, flashlight, LED safety strobe, etc. Finding enough borrowable memory and batteries for a parade or wedding is now no problem. I can easly find 5 sets of rechargable batteries (about $10/set of 4 not $40 each) and about a half dozen CF cards of various sizes.
I stick to MP3's for the same reason I stick to AA batteries and CF cards. I can use them in more than one place and in more than one device as needed. I have no need for single application format hardware or content that is incompatible by design. I don't have to worry if the memory card recorded in device A won't play it back in device B.
Here is a hint, my DVD in the living room plays CDR's of MP3's. So does my portable CD, computers, and car. You are trying to sell me content that won't work there? Why would I want to buy into this new format?
Judging by the size of the hybrids that I've seen, I doubt that after being hit by any of the overly large gas guzzling SUV's on the road today, there will be much car to actually cut.
Don't laugh, but to improve performance, milage, and emissions, Ford has lisenced the Hybrid technology from Toyota. Don't be suprised when your new SUV gets 25-35 MPG around town and is rated a SULEV instead of a polluting gas hog. Some buses are already Hybrids in Japan.
scene of an accident, the radio is NEVER on?
;-)
Um, it's TV. They would have to pay the RIAA extra if the radio was on. It's cheaper to just blow the horn.
In the Toyota Prius, The HV breaker is tied into the system. They claim it usualy operates prior to the air bag deployment (while the computer figures the impact force the sensing of any impact disconnects the HV pack).
Racing cars have a standard placed cut off for the motor/fuel line inside the drivers door for rescuers, why not something like that for the hybrids?
There is. In my Prius, it's in the trunk on the left side of the battery pack. Pull out the orange disconnect plug. Upon loss of the 12 volt system, the high voltage circuit breaker in the trunk opens so simply cutting the small 12 volt battery cable will do the trick.
In the Honda Insite, the disconnect switch is in the back under a small square cover.
But after an accident, any part of the wiring harness could be energized relative to the frame -- you just don't know, for example, if the dome light circuit is going to happen to be connected to the same bank of circuits that were smushed into the Big Orange Cable in a front-quarter collision that also happened to damage the fail-safe circuit breakers.
Troll or FUD, I'm not sure, but I'll bite. The dome light circuit goes from under the dash and up. The big orange cables go under the floor in conduit. This is like saying don't touch your metal case toaster in the morning because a car might crash into a utility pole putting thousands of volts on your toaster. True, it could happen. It's happening is very rare and mostly improbable. The high voltage when tangled into low voltage tends to blow circit protection devices very quickly resulting in a blackout. The Prius is no different in this regard. High voltage high current into low voltage circuits woud quickly burn away only if the high voltage protection failed to operate. Cutting into a grounded metal roof and hitting a dome light wire with the high voltage on it would provide a fault current high enough to vaporise the small gauge wire in a split second. Other than a suprising flash and puff of smoke, the operator of the cutting tool (grounded to the roof being cut) would only wonder what went pop. Anything that tore up the car enough to tangel the high voltage wire and the dome light wouldn't need cutting tools to enter anyway. It would already be open.