Re:The similarities escape some....
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Hack Your Ride
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· Score: 1
I had a z28 that I had reprogrammed (95 lt1, in case anyone cares...) with a power programmer 2 from Hypertech.
Gave a noticable seat-of-the-pants improvement, along with about a 1-2mpg difference in fuel economy (which is practically useless, I could have been driving differently I know...)
The one thing it WOULD NOT let you do is disable the rev limiter. It would let you raise it to 6250, I believe... but, the weird thing with the LT1 is that after about 5800RPM, you'd lose power. You could feel when you had to shift in the high end.
The Rev limiter did save my butt in a race once. I wasn't paying attention to the gauges, and wasn't too used to the high end drop -- felt like the car was going to shake apart, but from that point forward, I was glad to have a rev limiter. Maybe this guy should have kept the rev limiter as well -- probably just opted not to have one, which is a VERY STUPID idea on a manual transmission vehicle.
No. That's what I thought at first as well -- if you keep reading, you'll see that he's only feeding 6w per sub channel (a total of 12w) at the peak of the program.....
So, while a horn costs a lot to build, it doesn't cost much to run....
"The real maximum power fed to both subhorn measured with an oscilloscope at the highest musical peak roughly reaches 6 watts per channel."
Now, he's also stating that he calculated for the seating area about 110db/1w/1m. Since my math has gotten quite rusty, I'm assuming with a horn setup that it's quite loud.
What I don't know is if he's doing 6w/ch, meaning 6w to each sub, or 6w to each "set" of subs... so either 12 watts at musical peaks or 96 watts total.... either way, though... watt for watt, this setup would be much more efficient than any setup you could ever place in a car.
Not saying getting loud SPL's out of cars isn't fun, just a different challenge. Usually requires more power, and while you can get a car setup to sound good, working with a true "listening room" (and lotsa cash) can yield almost "perfect" results.
Actually, wouldn't Windows be more like a vacuum cleaner?
One that you can buy for 200$, that comes with no attachments (tools) for free. You can buy the tools to add on to the end to get various jobs done a lot quicker and easier.
However, without spending more money than just on the core product, it just kinda sucks. With the attachments, you can make the suck more productive, but it still sucks...
Given, a spindle of Ritek G04's (50) are about 46$ on newegg.com, and price/gig of data is actually quite good compared to a spindle of 50 CD-R's.
I've been doing a lot of...ahem... backing up of... well, you know. But, what I'd like to see is dirt cheap media that I can rely on for about a year and then re-burn on newer media -- my full album rip backups. Then I'd be set.
So far, I've not used any media but Ritek's, since the price isn't like CD-Writables are now. But... this will just help the single-layer prices!
Is anybody else out there just a tad pissed off like myself to find that nearly every new album that comes out is compressed all to hell?
I've been attending some local band concerts lately, and love the live sound. Then I buy their CD. Crank up the stereo, and it sounds like utter crap because they've compressed the hell out of it.
Cymbals tend to sound like mud. Voices get mushed into the music. Drums get squashed.
Doesn't sound like they're even trying to engineer good masters anymore. As much as I like music, I cringe from time to time listening to how the engineer butchered the music.
(All I mainly listen to is Rock/Alternative, so maybe it's just a "style" thing nowadays...)
There's no real good analogy for this.... Well, maybe one. Let's say I break into a web server and steal all of the server-side usernames and passwords. Now, if I don't do anything with them, there's not a lot of harm done... but knowing what those usernames and passwords are could cause havoc in the future... we are all human, you know.
My initial thoughts on this problem -- would an encoder "see" the extra information within a Dolby Pro Logic encoded track, and attempt to get rid of it since it's not necessary information? I think you'd probably see problems with this, at least at the low bit rates. I've never been inclined to try to encode a pro-logic recording -- most of them would be on VHS, and I have no use for that.
Honestly, though, you will probably see little to no increase in performance with binding cards...
1. Unless you have more than one person hitting the server, i.e. copying files around... you won't see much of an increase.
2. You would also need to bind cards together on your client machine in order to take advantage of 2 cards bound on the server.
3. You need a switch that can handle binding cards -- something fully managed, which guessing from your post, you probably wouldn't want to spend (price/performance)...
In short, it's kinda like raid-0. A select few sets of people need it, but it's all the rage. Doesn't really help the average or above average joe....
Speaking of Media incompatibility, DVD media appears to be as compatibility-fragile as CDR's were way back when.
There are threads all over (dvdinfo.com?) that state media compatibility for burning, as well as for reliable storage. I wish for two things though:
1. DVD media all has a baseline "quality", meaning every piece of media you could buy (even cheaper ones) would be reliably written and read. Cheap CDR's do that now, and yes, you gamble with longevity, but really, do any of us typically expect a writable medium to last >5 years?
2. Cost. As of now, cost/storage unit is pretty sweet. A 100 pack of CD-R's recently cost me around 20$ (imations, I believe.) That's about.20$/disc, which is acceptable. So, for 70gigs of storage, I paid 20$.
I currently pay Newegg about 46$ per 50 pack of Ritek G04 media (DVD-R). So, for 46$, I get 225gigs or so of storage. Cost per megabyte, this just makes better sense.
Oh. Back to cost. When the DVD-R media (my own preference... what is most compatible to my players) comes down below 50 cents per disc (decent media, not the cheap stuff) then I'll be really tickled pink. And this may happen with the new dual layer ones coming out -- of which, I won't be an early adopter of.
The only real reason I use CD's anymore is for swapping files out from home/work, as well as mix mp3 cds for the car. Of course, I'm waiting for a car player that will read DVD+-R/RW full of MP3's, so I'll have even fewer discs to keep!
Kind of offtopic here, but your relationship sounds similar to me and my girlfriend (whom I will marry one day...)
We both have almost nothing in common, but we always find a way to share time and enjoy each other's company. I don't think I'd like someone that was a "perfect match" for me -- variety being the spice of life and all.....
And, as far as moving out of the city, I'd do it in a heartbeat if I hadn't racked up so much debt in the past 5-10 years. Oh well, you live and learn, eh?
I recently bought a projector, and was in process of wanting to build a screen for it. I knew the width and height would be 4:3, but I wasn't quite sure how to get the diagonal....
Then I saw on a web page -- just remember "3,4,5" with 3 being the height, 4 the width, and 5 the diagonal... and with that, you can solve any regular TV size image....
My problem being, I had a diagonal I wanted to shoot for (since I knew where I wanted the projector) but didn't know the other areas... and I wasn't at home, so I couldn't just be a slacker and measure it with tape... heh....
I wish I had kept up with my math as well. I feel somewhat stupider not knowing that stuff now, but apparently I still enjoy life, so it's not too big of a regret for me.
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I had a z28 that I had reprogrammed (95 lt1, in case anyone cares...) with a power programmer 2 from Hypertech.
Gave a noticable seat-of-the-pants improvement, along with about a 1-2mpg difference in fuel economy (which is practically useless, I could have been driving differently I know...)
The one thing it WOULD NOT let you do is disable the rev limiter. It would let you raise it to 6250, I believe... but, the weird thing with the LT1 is that after about 5800RPM, you'd lose power. You could feel when you had to shift in the high end.
The Rev limiter did save my butt in a race once. I wasn't paying attention to the gauges, and wasn't too used to the high end drop -- felt like the car was going to shake apart, but from that point forward, I was glad to have a rev limiter. Maybe this guy should have kept the rev limiter as well -- probably just opted not to have one, which is a VERY STUPID idea on a manual transmission vehicle.
No. That's what I thought at first as well -- if you keep reading, you'll see that he's only feeding 6w per sub channel (a total of 12w) at the peak of the program.....
So, while a horn costs a lot to build, it doesn't cost much to run....
Quote from the article:
"The real maximum power fed to both subhorn measured with an oscilloscope at the highest musical peak roughly reaches 6 watts per channel."
Now, he's also stating that he calculated for the seating area about 110db/1w/1m. Since my math has gotten quite rusty, I'm assuming with a horn setup that it's quite loud.
What I don't know is if he's doing 6w/ch, meaning 6w to each sub, or 6w to each "set" of subs... so either 12 watts at musical peaks or 96 watts total.... either way, though... watt for watt, this setup would be much more efficient than any setup you could ever place in a car.
Not saying getting loud SPL's out of cars isn't fun, just a different challenge. Usually requires more power, and while you can get a car setup to sound good, working with a true "listening room" (and lotsa cash) can yield almost "perfect" results.
Just crank up the volume. You'll rattle them to death!
Actually, wouldn't Windows be more like a vacuum cleaner?
One that you can buy for 200$, that comes with no attachments (tools) for free. You can buy the tools to add on to the end to get various jobs done a lot quicker and easier.
However, without spending more money than just on the core product, it just kinda sucks. With the attachments, you can make the suck more productive, but it still sucks...
Did I mention the attachments are proprietary?
Which one usually wins? You, or your car?
208 volts between the legs would probably burn...
And after you got the contact buzz..., you'd really start to think that they were thinking too much.
"A digital image is not going to rise in value because it is not tangible property and it can be easily reproduced."
Someone should tell this to the RIAA.
The sun won't make my radiator boil over. Me being a dumbass and not taking good care of my car will do a fine job of that all by itself!
You mean if you group together 6 IT Indians, they all make 19,700 a year altogether? ...
I'm just waiting for the media prices to drop.
.ahem... backing up of ... well, you know. But, what I'd like to see is dirt cheap media that I can rely on for about a year and then re-burn on newer media -- my full album rip backups. Then I'd be set.
Given, a spindle of Ritek G04's (50) are about 46$ on newegg.com, and price/gig of data is actually quite good compared to a spindle of 50 CD-R's.
I've been doing a lot of..
So far, I've not used any media but Ritek's, since the price isn't like CD-Writables are now. But... this will just help the single-layer prices!
Is anybody else out there just a tad pissed off like myself to find that nearly every new album that comes out is compressed all to hell?
I've been attending some local band concerts lately, and love the live sound. Then I buy their CD. Crank up the stereo, and it sounds like utter crap because they've compressed the hell out of it.
Cymbals tend to sound like mud. Voices get mushed into the music. Drums get squashed.
Doesn't sound like they're even trying to engineer good masters anymore. As much as I like music, I cringe from time to time listening to how the engineer butchered the music.
(All I mainly listen to is Rock/Alternative, so maybe it's just a "style" thing nowadays...)
"Eh Eh See"
How do you know PorscheDriver is from Canada?
Batman may not be able to fly, but as far as the movies have shown me, he can float gracefully...
But then the bank is out of money.
There's no real good analogy for this.... Well, maybe one. Let's say I break into a web server and steal all of the server-side usernames and passwords. Now, if I don't do anything with them, there's not a lot of harm done... but knowing what those usernames and passwords are could cause havoc in the future... we are all human, you know.
My initial thoughts on this problem -- would an encoder "see" the extra information within a Dolby Pro Logic encoded track, and attempt to get rid of it since it's not necessary information? I think you'd probably see problems with this, at least at the low bit rates. I've never been inclined to try to encode a pro-logic recording -- most of them would be on VHS, and I have no use for that.
Actually, is Qsound still around? I know that Capcom licensed their technology in the Street Fighter series of games (possibly more)...?
Honestly, though, you will probably see little to no increase in performance with binding cards...
1. Unless you have more than one person hitting the server, i.e. copying files around... you won't see much of an increase.
2. You would also need to bind cards together on your client machine in order to take advantage of 2 cards bound on the server.
3. You need a switch that can handle binding cards -- something fully managed, which guessing from your post, you probably wouldn't want to spend (price/performance)...
In short, it's kinda like raid-0. A select few sets of people need it, but it's all the rage. Doesn't really help the average or above average joe....
Wouldn't that be "JesusSavesYourFilesystem"?
Having an illegal act done to you doesn't get negated if you're doing an illegal act as well.
Consider if I attempt to rob a bank. If I catch someone stealing my car before I can get away, they can still be charged with theft.
And yes, I know it's not a perfect analogy, but that's why they call it an analogy.
Speaking of Media incompatibility, DVD media appears to be as compatibility-fragile as CDR's were way back when.
.20$/disc, which is acceptable. So, for 70gigs of storage, I paid 20$.
There are threads all over (dvdinfo.com?) that state media compatibility for burning, as well as for reliable storage. I wish for two things though:
1. DVD media all has a baseline "quality", meaning every piece of media you could buy (even cheaper ones) would be reliably written and read. Cheap CDR's do that now, and yes, you gamble with longevity, but really, do any of us typically expect a writable medium to last >5 years?
2. Cost. As of now, cost/storage unit is pretty sweet. A 100 pack of CD-R's recently cost me around 20$ (imations, I believe.) That's about
I currently pay Newegg about 46$ per 50 pack of Ritek G04 media (DVD-R). So, for 46$, I get 225gigs or so of storage. Cost per megabyte, this just makes better sense.
Oh. Back to cost. When the DVD-R media (my own preference... what is most compatible to my players) comes down below 50 cents per disc (decent media, not the cheap stuff) then I'll be really tickled pink. And this may happen with the new dual layer ones coming out -- of which, I won't be an early adopter of.
The only real reason I use CD's anymore is for swapping files out from home/work, as well as mix mp3 cds for the car. Of course, I'm waiting for a car player that will read DVD+-R/RW full of MP3's, so I'll have even fewer discs to keep!
Kind of offtopic here, but your relationship sounds similar to me and my girlfriend (whom I will marry one day...)
We both have almost nothing in common, but we always find a way to share time and enjoy each other's company. I don't think I'd like someone that was a "perfect match" for me -- variety being the spice of life and all.....
And, as far as moving out of the city, I'd do it in a heartbeat if I hadn't racked up so much debt in the past 5-10 years. Oh well, you live and learn, eh?
Dear god! You had the same dilemma I had!!!
I recently bought a projector, and was in process of wanting to build a screen for it. I knew the width and height would be 4:3, but I wasn't quite sure how to get the diagonal....
Then I saw on a web page -- just remember "3,4,5" with 3 being the height, 4 the width, and 5 the diagonal... and with that, you can solve any regular TV size image....
My problem being, I had a diagonal I wanted to shoot for (since I knew where I wanted the projector) but didn't know the other areas... and I wasn't at home, so I couldn't just be a slacker and measure it with tape... heh....
I wish I had kept up with my math as well. I feel somewhat stupider not knowing that stuff now, but apparently I still enjoy life, so it's not too big of a regret for me.
Have you ever lived out in the country? Tell me you don't need a car when the closest place to get any sort of food is >25 miles away.