Install google voice application on a wifi pda, it will give you chat+voip+robust phone number list that follows to cell phones, work, etc. Thus no longdistance (nationwide) and cheapeast international rates. I don't know that asterisk is that hard. I downloaded trixbox.org CD, and stuck it in a old PC with a digium adapter, it rebooted and I had a phone system. The sweet thing is it does the land line, also with google voice, and my old school dell axim, the google voice application with bluetooth headset, and a voip application. You then got everything on one device. I used this at a small office, added some dialing rules and a UPS. It was almost too reliable, we would lose either VOIP, or a analog line and it would realize this and route around it. It wouldn't be until we were getting busy phone line complaints from outside, or a long distance bill that I would realize qwest had screwed up our lines, or the VOIP carrier had issues.
Neutral had always meant "physically disconnect engine from wheels"
http://eahart.com/prius/psd/ So it is impossible to "disconnect" the engine from the wheels of the Toyota Hybrids, it is a direct gear to gear connection between the engine and wheel. But it takes the electric motor making some torque to make the car move, not sure if you would call that physically disconnected?
Problem is efficiency is a combination of engine speed, and intake restriction (assuming we run at stochkometry). Since your gas pedal is actually just decreasing the intake restriction. as you push the gas, at every rpm the more efficient your engine will run (assuming manual trans*, with EFI, no boost.) Generally with peak efficiency at same rpm as peak torque, wide open. So ideally you need a small enough engine that it can run wide open at this RPM the majority of the time, but since this is usually at 70-80% of peak HP, you would have a fairly un-responsive car at that speed. they usually get the gearing right for the best economy possible for the engine, while going 60 MPH. The problem is the engine isn't the correct size for the cars drag at that speed, so things like multiple engines (hybrids) variable displacement engines, etc has more potential for savings. (* manual because in a auto efficiency of the trans decreases with load as well, and anything beyond half throttle only changes the shift point of the trans.)
You do have the right to do all those things with OS-X, that seams clear and not in question. The only question is does a business have those same rights to smash up OSX and sell it for a profit without the consent of Apple. I disagree with Apple, and think it is slimy how far they have gone to squash pyStar. However I do think Apple has built a hell of a reputation for building a stable product (even a bit overblown IMHO), and has a right to defend it. They shouldn't be able to stop Py-star from selling a compatible product, but they should be able to keep a differentiation preventing the clone from harming their reputation. However I don't know where the line should be drawn, for example Pystar shouldn't be able to say OS-X is "supported" without being clear it is not supported by apple on their hardware...
Not really about when are we going to throw away our Garmins. It's about garming charging for maps, road construction, safety camera info, updates. I was debating about paying the $150 for lifetime maps for my Nuvi. But it's locked to a single device, not editable in anyway and pricey (on top of the $180 single use device.) All thoughts of purchasing that are now gone for this phone. I will keep my garmin Vista (or replace with similar) for riding the quads/motorcycles/mountain bikes where there are no roads (sand dunes, changing trails.) So knocking 15%+ off of garmin stock price seams correct, their overall growth in GPS is very unlikely (but lower volume/higher priced boating, fishing, offroad GPS growth is likely to stay.)
Makes me wonder how, and how long they were looking for this. It seams like a whole stream of photons could have bounced off a celestrial body 2000 light years away, and the faster light stream came past earth 2000 years ago as well (and the slower stream will reflect from the same source, and come by us in 2000 years.) If they were just looking for a stream of photons within 1 second of each other, eventually we were likely to find proof, even if Einsteins theory was wrong.
could be deeper. IE they want to outsource more of the jobs directly to India. But they don't want to learn the language, culture, etc. So you bring in talent, from India. That way they learn the language in US, and if they are smart and loyal you use them to outsource everything back to India. As long as they maintain the upper level corruption in place in India, workers will prefer the less messed up US management, so management won't lose their job as well. Then again I don't think the US CEO's are that smart.
Also the Tesla will need a $36,000 dollar battery every 100k miles, while the Elise, during the same time frame needs 4000 gallons of fuel. So count up another $24k in costs to the Tesla, over the Elise, for every 100k of mileage you plan to drive.
(yes I know if you pay $12k today Tesla will supply you a battery in 7 years. With the risks involved in allowing a company that is on the edge of bankruptcy hold onto my $12k with no collateral, I would rather just pay the $36k today.)
their are many more optimizations available, although my DIY Solar project used electric solar panels, 12Volt pump, car stereo capacitor, and a couple transistors to accomplish the same. That reduced my HW bill ~70% (by ~$30/month), but it definitely messes up often. For example when I use say 10 gallons of hot water during the day, the hot water heater had 40 gallons of hot water (say average of 100F), but what happens is the solar panel actually gets chilled sucking in the fresh cold water (say 60F) too fast, and then has a output of say 70F, while the tank had 100F water. It pushes that 70F water in the top of the tank, and thus gets used first pushing the 100F water down in the tank. But if you always pump slower, then the solar heater won't be as efficient... So if I want to fill my jacuzzi tub on the weekend with 100F water, I found I could turn off the solar pump, and the on demand heater, and run full hot water until full, then turn all back on and use no power, all other options don't work as well, leaving the system on involves the on demand heater raising 70F water to 120F then mizing at the tub back to 120F. But since manual intervention that saves less than $.50 of power, it's not worth the manual effort each time. A Ideal smart system would know I likely want 30 Gallons of 100F water in the tub (minimum to use it) and thus not use power to heat the water to 120F, then cool it back to 100F at the tub (mixing in cool water), and know the solar gain for the next 3 minutes is not worth the mixing of temperate water in the tank. The standalone smart system controllers that can do some of this, costs $400, and thus would take 30 years to pay for it's self. Thermocouples are cheap, so adding this to a planned existing smart system and if DIY might lower this to a in-addition cost of $100 and become more like a 7 year payoff.
power, and water would be my desired benefits. Some data acquisition to know quickly if time of use electric is working (cheaper power at night, more cost during day). I now have a solar water heater, if it's sunny I would like the dishwasher, and clothes washer to run, but with daytime power at a higher rate, the solar heater better be at temperature first. Ability to analyze if small habit changes reduce the bill (best shower time) Also I am 100% electric, with a heat pump for heat/cool in a dry climate. I would like a system that knows inside temperature, outside temperature/humidty, electric rate, habitation status, and weather forecast. Run a fan to bring in cool air, turn on mister next to AC unit outside cooler if running in low humidity, wait 10 minutes to turn on if electric rate is about to change, but not 90 minutes if temperatures rising... My old water heater works, but is also the solar storage tank, with a on-demand after. It would be nice to easily be able to set some plans entered easily. IE if a shower is planned for 8am (after electric rates increase) it would be good to turn on the old water heater, if solar water is spent, but that would be wasted if no shower, and solar heat becomes available. Also to know if a extra solar tank would be a bigger return, or a bigger panel is needed. I can setup and buy the loggers from Omega for a few hundred. Water valves are within my ability. Using relays for the washer/ dryer is not too bad, water heater rely is pricey (220v 25A), the software, and a decent touch screen interface is a bit more of a commitment than I want at this time.
$$$$ I think Amazons use of DRM will help/was designed to break the overhead, where as Apples, and Sonys is clearly to prop up the failed models longer. Amazon has a reasonable, we'll publish your book directly for a flat percentage, no matter what price you want ($.99 - $200) Very easy, very cost affective. Granted Apple kinda sorta, stepped into this, but never gave the same efforts to independents. And never for the kinda price/format flexibility that amazon is going for with their Digital Text Platform (also it doesn't hurt that amazons DRM is fairly easy to crack.)
Except for horses. There won't be any meaningful limits on horse owners.
No doubt, which if their is any truth to this article they are likely the cause. IE because (pleasure) horse owners were so turned off with the thought, when they no longer wanted these pets and sold them, they could be bought for slaughter. That they passed laws forbidding them from being purchased at auction (or otherwise) for the purpose. Therefore the availability for slaughter (for dog food) became to un-predictable and thus these places have largely shutdown in the US. The bottom fell out of the horse markets, so now horses are just being set free (to starve) in the country. And (I assume) all of our dog food now has to be imported (using fuel, etc) from our neighbors to the north and south to make up for this "PETA" movement.
you left out the tinfoil. No seriously you would also want to remove the antennas, or wrap the TW box in a Faraday cage IE tinfoil (OK it is unlikely but...) If anyone can remote into the Wifi/bridge config portion of the router, sounds like you could still remote into the neighbors router with this, change his wifi settings of the TW box for you to connect through, set your wifi connected box as their new dns/dhcp/etc host, change the IP of the TW box (so if they hardcoded) all their traffic would now go through hardware you controlled.) Then you would pretty much have complete control over what they could do on the internet, even with their un-compromised router hardwired behind the TW box.
doesn't take much energy at all to overcome the in-active pump. Lift the front wheels off the ground and push the wheels back and forth engine off, it's nothing (and hear the steering wheel spin, that's the mass at the end of gearing causing most of the drag). The issues are just the gearing differences, the design without power steering has a bigger steering wheel, and is likely 10 turns lock to lock. New cars have smaller wheels, and more like 3 turns lock to lock.
I think it takes less weight, cost, mechanical complexity to do a redundant drive by wire, than to have the hard linkages + a second power assist + speed sensitive/angle sensitive gearing that is now in most cars. Also with the future desires of adding in safety sensors that can prevent you from accidentally wandering across the center lines, etc. But, it is clear the main issue attempting to be resolved is how to have a small car that doesn't have a solid metal linkage right in front of a person that will kill the driver on impact. It isn't completely new either, I just got out of a electric over hydraulic drive by wire truck. Mining trucks have been drive by wire for years, mostly because a person can't produce enough energy to make a useful change in direction anyway. So while I don't really want a drive by wire car, I do think they would be safer if done correctly. And it really doesn't take much weight, even for these 3 story building that go 40+mph, to store enough redundant energy for several turns.
Sounds like your car may need attention. Fairly certain every car made in the last 15 years has a vacuum reservoir (every car I have ever owned) that should give at least one stab at the brakes with boost (then manual.) Every automatic transmission will remain in gear (@ engine die but may not for key off), but the non electronic ones, use pressure to activate the clutches (bands, whatever the correct term is for your car), if the clutches lose pressure (or electric) they will always go into top gear. That top gear will likely let your engine stop below ~40 MPH (if not in lockup). You were in worst case mode though, most cars now have a lockup clutch. At full throttle you were definitely not in lockup (unless over ~80MPH.) If you had been in lockup your engine speed wouldn't have dropped speed one bit (except as the car slowed.)
However this is all gone for good the moment you shift into neutral (unless you have a auto more than 30 years old.) The electronic trans software wont let you back in, the hydrostatic have no pressure to make a gear change, done. This is why I would only buy a manual transmission for towing. I have too big of a camper, and live in the mountains. I once had a battery, I failed to secure, come lose and shorted out killing everything. Had that happened in the mountains with a auto and a trailer that would be very touch and go.
I agree with biryokumaru. FYI The diesel's output shaft peak torque is way higher than the electric drives peak output shaft torque. IMHO the major advantages are:
1) infinite number of gear ratios can keep the engine in peak efficiency without needing a separate gear for every possible sustained speed. Major advantage for emissions, you don't have to ever lug a engine to make up for a non-ideal gear ratio. You can avoid spending any time at a poor pollution engine speed/load combination.
2) traction control is a huge deal on locomotive (poor traction for metal on metal also low percentage of total loaded weight on drive axles), electric drive can instantly change torques independently to each motor, Capacitors average this out to the engine.
3) braking, you can use the wheel motors to dump lots of energy to a fairly simple device (super-sized hair dryer like metal strips and a cooling fan) That does not wear out like all other simple braking devices. Also traction control on braking is better performance than most ABS systems.
4) one to many transmission, it is simpler to split power equally from 1 source to 8 motors with electric.
method of doing so that 100% does not involve the government, but would also be recognized as a legal marriage just the same.
now that's funney, you want government recognition, without government recognition. FYI sounds like you have a Common-law_marriage If you live in a state with that, all you have to do is submit a tax return (at least in AZ, where I live) as a married couple, and it's legally recognized. So choose whatever hippey gathering, flag burning, anti-government ceremony, or whatever you want, and come April 15th it'll be recognized as a "legal marriage." (assuming by reference to "her" and "significant other" that means a person already legally recognized as the opposite sex as yourself, and not a man who likes it on the bottom, or your not a woman with a strap on, or she doesn't require a occasional re-inflation...)
where do you get that viewpoint from? If marriage were about religion, then you should be fighting why any marriage is allowed outside a religious belief and joining, not just picking and choosing a "oh that sounds in-appropriate" I'll be offended if they use the same term. Then again I think gays wanting the "marriage" title, and not just the same rights seams just as stupid. And I do think it is more of a "we hate the typical religions, so were going to shove this in your face for attention" statement by gays than anything else. But all history that I find of marriage, and ceremonies seams to be predated by any religious text, by government requirements. Other than a more general religious context of a committed partner, the churches becoming involved has always been a recognization of the governmental bond, not the opposite.
as far as I can tell marriage has always been more about government, long before religion got involved (obviously not in the US, but more a derived thing from the British history.) Governments all started more about how can the powerful control the masses, and when that becomes problematic religion takes over and tries to do the same. It is natural to try and control sex, and become the defacto "granters of permission" to demonstrate power/compassion/giving. So when it becomes obvious that religion and government have the same goals (a content controlled masses, following a consistent set of rules) naturally they are both going to go about doing this in similar manners.
sometime in the 90's all the issues of timing, etc started becoming fairly mundane tasks for motion controllers. Today anyone can buy motor controllers from hobby stores that can maintain pretty tight torque specifications. My RC plane has a less than $100 VFD drive controller in it capable of pretty good torque control, and weighing a few ounces (we did a first robotics project using these for a skid steered bot.) For higher HP I have purchased motion controllers from automation direct for a few grand that can be setup in a torque following configuration (and controlled over a communications buss with 100ms response times.) Now packing in 4 separate VFD drives (assuming these are AC) along with all the other needed wiring is going to eat up alott of space. Going DC would be easier, the DC drive trucks I worked with just wired the motors in series, that kept torque fairly well balanced. Actually the IGBT electric drive vehicles have much better traction control than mechanical drive, because they can change their response a few hundred times a second if needed, measuring acceleration responses to precisely measured torques (just measure the current.)
I guess I should say how the mining application is different. They are RWD only, with motors inside dually wheels, with a solid axle box between duallys. This gives spacing to the bearings, room for gearing reduction, a good sealed box to push cooling air around everything. Also all diesel generator powered (no batteries) or trolley operated. The suspension is mostly the tires, which limits time at speed. They can go 40+ MPH, but not loaded for anything more than a few minutes, when they stop to dump and reload (may spend half their time loaded, but for short enough times to avoid too much heat buildup.) And only on well maintained roads, at least relative to the diameter of the tires and max speeds allowed.
as a engineer having worked on mining trucks for 12years with wheel motors, that page seams very guilty of avoiding context. Komatsu (mostly GE), Liehbier (Siemiens+GE), and Caterpillar all have wheel motored mining vehicles in production. 1) They show no gearing reduction, electric motors are generally very in-efficient at high torque, they mostly run at around 40:1 reduction in real world car app, this kind of gearing reduction is very pricey to create for high torques without lots of space. 2) Electric motors require a very large current to produce those torques (especially if no gearing reduction) and/or lots of windings (lots of weight) big wiring, and difficult power supplies 3) they show no room for excitation of the rotor, this means permanent magnets = rare earth magnets = $$$ + dense weight. 4) very small bearing surface area, lots of spinning mass = lots of momentum = lots of torque when turning, bumps, etc. Front wheels sounds like a very bad idea. 5) single efficiency number is suspicious, as stated above torque is poor efficiency, I do believe the efficiency at higher speeds but not at high torque. 6) sealing against weather/dirt/mud. Even if they get only 4% loss, good luck with cooling that and sealing it at the same time, without dumping the heat into the tires which will already be under trouble (see the suspended weight = extra tire abuse) 7) still no economical battery choice that can make electric cheaper than diesel over the lifetime of a battery.
That said, I want 2 for my 1970 2WD truck. It has room for them, and I could slap them on get regen braking, and emergency 4WD help. I don't need much help, and since 80% of braking energy is slowing from 75mph to 25mph so I don't care about the torque/efficiency from 25 to 0.
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Install google voice application on a wifi pda, it will give you chat+voip+robust phone number list that follows to cell phones, work, etc. Thus no longdistance (nationwide) and cheapeast international rates.
I don't know that asterisk is that hard. I downloaded trixbox.org CD, and stuck it in a old PC with a digium adapter, it rebooted and I had a phone system. The sweet thing is it does the land line, also with google voice, and my old school dell axim, the google voice application with bluetooth headset, and a voip application. You then got everything on one device.
I used this at a small office, added some dialing rules and a UPS. It was almost too reliable, we would lose either VOIP, or a analog line and it would realize this and route around it. It wouldn't be until we were getting busy phone line complaints from outside, or a long distance bill that I would realize qwest had screwed up our lines, or the VOIP carrier had issues.
Neutral had always meant "physically disconnect engine from wheels"
http://eahart.com/prius/psd/
So it is impossible to "disconnect" the engine from the wheels of the Toyota Hybrids, it is a direct gear to gear connection between the engine and wheel. But it takes the electric motor making some torque to make the car move, not sure if you would call that physically disconnected?
Problem is efficiency is a combination of engine speed, and intake restriction (assuming we run at stochkometry). Since your gas pedal is actually just decreasing the intake restriction. as you push the gas, at every rpm the more efficient your engine will run (assuming manual trans*, with EFI, no boost.) Generally with peak efficiency at same rpm as peak torque, wide open. So ideally you need a small enough engine that it can run wide open at this RPM the majority of the time, but since this is usually at 70-80% of peak HP, you would have a fairly un-responsive car at that speed.
they usually get the gearing right for the best economy possible for the engine, while going 60 MPH. The problem is the engine isn't the correct size for the cars drag at that speed, so things like multiple engines (hybrids) variable displacement engines, etc has more potential for savings. (* manual because in a auto efficiency of the trans decreases with load as well, and anything beyond half throttle only changes the shift point of the trans.)
You do have the right to do all those things with OS-X, that seams clear and not in question. The only question is does a business have those same rights to smash up OSX and sell it for a profit without the consent of Apple. I disagree with Apple, and think it is slimy how far they have gone to squash pyStar. However I do think Apple has built a hell of a reputation for building a stable product (even a bit overblown IMHO), and has a right to defend it. They shouldn't be able to stop Py-star from selling a compatible product, but they should be able to keep a differentiation preventing the clone from harming their reputation. However I don't know where the line should be drawn, for example Pystar shouldn't be able to say OS-X is "supported" without being clear it is not supported by apple on their hardware...
Not really about when are we going to throw away our Garmins. It's about garming charging for maps, road construction, safety camera info, updates. I was debating about paying the $150 for lifetime maps for my Nuvi. But it's locked to a single device, not editable in anyway and pricey (on top of the $180 single use device.) All thoughts of purchasing that are now gone for this phone. I will keep my garmin Vista (or replace with similar) for riding the quads/motorcycles/mountain bikes where there are no roads (sand dunes, changing trails.)
So knocking 15%+ off of garmin stock price seams correct, their overall growth in GPS is very unlikely (but lower volume/higher priced boating, fishing, offroad GPS growth is likely to stay.)
Makes me wonder how, and how long they were looking for this. It seams like a whole stream of photons could have bounced off a celestrial body 2000 light years away, and the faster light stream came past earth 2000 years ago as well (and the slower stream will reflect from the same source, and come by us in 2000 years.) If they were just looking for a stream of photons within 1 second of each other, eventually we were likely to find proof, even if Einsteins theory was wrong.
could be deeper. IE they want to outsource more of the jobs directly to India. But they don't want to learn the language, culture, etc. So you bring in talent, from India. That way they learn the language in US, and if they are smart and loyal you use them to outsource everything back to India. As long as they maintain the upper level corruption in place in India, workers will prefer the less messed up US management, so management won't lose their job as well. Then again I don't think the US CEO's are that smart.
Also the Tesla will need a $36,000 dollar battery every 100k miles, while the Elise, during the same time frame needs 4000 gallons of fuel. So count up another $24k in costs to the Tesla, over the Elise, for every 100k of mileage you plan to drive.
(yes I know if you pay $12k today Tesla will supply you a battery in 7 years. With the risks involved in allowing a company that is on the edge of bankruptcy hold onto my $12k with no collateral, I would rather just pay the $36k today.)
their are many more optimizations available, although my DIY Solar project used electric solar panels, 12Volt pump, car stereo capacitor, and a couple transistors to accomplish the same. That reduced my HW bill ~70% (by ~$30/month), but it definitely messes up often. For example when I use say 10 gallons of hot water during the day, the hot water heater had 40 gallons of hot water (say average of 100F), but what happens is the solar panel actually gets chilled sucking in the fresh cold water (say 60F) too fast, and then has a output of say 70F, while the tank had 100F water. It pushes that 70F water in the top of the tank, and thus gets used first pushing the 100F water down in the tank. But if you always pump slower, then the solar heater won't be as efficient... So if I want to fill my jacuzzi tub on the weekend with 100F water, I found I could turn off the solar pump, and the on demand heater, and run full hot water until full, then turn all back on and use no power, all other options don't work as well, leaving the system on involves the on demand heater raising 70F water to 120F then mizing at the tub back to 120F. But since manual intervention that saves less than $.50 of power, it's not worth the manual effort each time. A Ideal smart system would know I likely want 30 Gallons of 100F water in the tub (minimum to use it) and thus not use power to heat the water to 120F, then cool it back to 100F at the tub (mixing in cool water), and know the solar gain for the next 3 minutes is not worth the mixing of temperate water in the tank.
The standalone smart system controllers that can do some of this, costs $400, and thus would take 30 years to pay for it's self. Thermocouples are cheap, so adding this to a planned existing smart system and if DIY might lower this to a in-addition cost of $100 and become more like a 7 year payoff.
power, and water would be my desired benefits. Some data acquisition to know quickly if time of use electric is working (cheaper power at night, more cost during day). I now have a solar water heater, if it's sunny I would like the dishwasher, and clothes washer to run, but with daytime power at a higher rate, the solar heater better be at temperature first. Ability to analyze if small habit changes reduce the bill (best shower time)
Also I am 100% electric, with a heat pump for heat/cool in a dry climate. I would like a system that knows inside temperature, outside temperature/humidty, electric rate, habitation status, and weather forecast. Run a fan to bring in cool air, turn on mister next to AC unit outside cooler if running in low humidity, wait 10 minutes to turn on if electric rate is about to change, but not 90 minutes if temperatures rising... My old water heater works, but is also the solar storage tank, with a on-demand after. It would be nice to easily be able to set some plans entered easily. IE if a shower is planned for 8am (after electric rates increase) it would be good to turn on the old water heater, if solar water is spent, but that would be wasted if no shower, and solar heat becomes available. Also to know if a extra solar tank would be a bigger return, or a bigger panel is needed.
I can setup and buy the loggers from Omega for a few hundred. Water valves are within my ability. Using relays for the washer/ dryer is not too bad, water heater rely is pricey (220v 25A), the software, and a decent touch screen interface is a bit more of a commitment than I want at this time.
$$$$
I think Amazons use of DRM will help/was designed to break the overhead, where as Apples, and Sonys is clearly to prop up the failed models longer.
Amazon has a reasonable, we'll publish your book directly for a flat percentage, no matter what price you want ($.99 - $200) Very easy, very cost affective.
Granted Apple kinda sorta, stepped into this, but never gave the same efforts to independents. And never for the kinda price/format flexibility that amazon is going for with their Digital Text Platform
(also it doesn't hurt that amazons DRM is fairly easy to crack.)
Except for horses. There won't be any meaningful limits on horse owners.
No doubt, which if their is any truth to this article they are likely the cause. IE because (pleasure) horse owners were so turned off with the thought, when they no longer wanted these pets and sold them, they could be bought for slaughter. That they passed laws forbidding them from being purchased at auction (or otherwise) for the purpose. Therefore the availability for slaughter (for dog food) became to un-predictable and thus these places have largely shutdown in the US. The bottom fell out of the horse markets, so now horses are just being set free (to starve) in the country. And (I assume) all of our dog food now has to be imported (using fuel, etc) from our neighbors to the north and south to make up for this "PETA" movement.
you left out the tinfoil. No seriously you would also want to remove the antennas, or wrap the TW box in a Faraday cage IE tinfoil (OK it is unlikely but...)
If anyone can remote into the Wifi/bridge config portion of the router, sounds like you could still remote into the neighbors router with this, change his wifi settings of the TW box for you to connect through, set your wifi connected box as their new dns/dhcp/etc host, change the IP of the TW box (so if they hardcoded) all their traffic would now go through hardware you controlled.)
Then you would pretty much have complete control over what they could do on the internet, even with their un-compromised router hardwired behind the TW box.
doesn't take much energy at all to overcome the in-active pump. Lift the front wheels off the ground and push the wheels back and forth engine off, it's nothing (and hear the steering wheel spin, that's the mass at the end of gearing causing most of the drag). The issues are just the gearing differences, the design without power steering has a bigger steering wheel, and is likely 10 turns lock to lock. New cars have smaller wheels, and more like 3 turns lock to lock.
alternate power supply is going to add weight,
I think it takes less weight, cost, mechanical complexity to do a redundant drive by wire, than to have the hard linkages + a second power assist + speed sensitive/angle sensitive gearing that is now in most cars. Also with the future desires of adding in safety sensors that can prevent you from accidentally wandering across the center lines, etc.
But, it is clear the main issue attempting to be resolved is how to have a small car that doesn't have a solid metal linkage right in front of a person that will kill the driver on impact. It isn't completely new either, I just got out of a electric over hydraulic drive by wire truck. Mining trucks have been drive by wire for years, mostly because a person can't produce enough energy to make a useful change in direction anyway. So while I don't really want a drive by wire car, I do think they would be safer if done correctly. And it really doesn't take much weight, even for these 3 story building that go 40+mph, to store enough redundant energy for several turns.
their is a mechanical connection between the engine and the rear wheels. Those connections work both ways (yes even in a auto, just not as efficient.)
Sounds like your car may need attention. Fairly certain every car made in the last 15 years has a vacuum reservoir (every car I have ever owned) that should give at least one stab at the brakes with boost (then manual.)
Every automatic transmission will remain in gear (@ engine die but may not for key off), but the non electronic ones, use pressure to activate the clutches (bands, whatever the correct term is for your car), if the clutches lose pressure (or electric) they will always go into top gear. That top gear will likely let your engine stop below ~40 MPH (if not in lockup).
You were in worst case mode though, most cars now have a lockup clutch. At full throttle you were definitely not in lockup (unless over ~80MPH.) If you had been in lockup your engine speed wouldn't have dropped speed one bit (except as the car slowed.)
However this is all gone for good the moment you shift into neutral (unless you have a auto more than 30 years old.) The electronic trans software wont let you back in, the hydrostatic have no pressure to make a gear change, done.
This is why I would only buy a manual transmission for towing. I have too big of a camper, and live in the mountains. I once had a battery, I failed to secure, come lose and shorted out killing everything. Had that happened in the mountains with a auto and a trailer that would be very touch and go.
I agree with biryokumaru. FYI The diesel's output shaft peak torque is way higher than the electric drives peak output shaft torque.
IMHO the major advantages are:
1) infinite number of gear ratios can keep the engine in peak efficiency without needing a separate gear for every possible sustained speed. Major advantage for emissions, you don't have to ever lug a engine to make up for a non-ideal gear ratio. You can avoid spending any time at a poor pollution engine speed/load combination.
2) traction control is a huge deal on locomotive (poor traction for metal on metal also low percentage of total loaded weight on drive axles), electric drive can instantly change torques independently to each motor, Capacitors average this out to the engine.
3) braking, you can use the wheel motors to dump lots of energy to a fairly simple device (super-sized hair dryer like metal strips and a cooling fan) That does not wear out like all other simple braking devices. Also traction control on braking is better performance than most ABS systems.
4) one to many transmission, it is simpler to split power equally from 1 source to 8 motors with electric.
method of doing so that 100% does not involve the government, but would also be recognized as a legal marriage just the same.
now that's funney, you want government recognition, without government recognition. FYI sounds like you have a Common-law_marriage If you live in a state with that, all you have to do is submit a tax return (at least in AZ, where I live) as a married couple, and it's legally recognized. So choose whatever hippey gathering, flag burning, anti-government ceremony, or whatever you want, and come April 15th it'll be recognized as a "legal marriage." (assuming by reference to "her" and "significant other" that means a person already legally recognized as the opposite sex as yourself, and not a man who likes it on the bottom, or your not a woman with a strap on, or she doesn't require a occasional re-inflation...)
where do you get that viewpoint from? If marriage were about religion, then you should be fighting why any marriage is allowed outside a religious belief and joining, not just picking and choosing a "oh that sounds in-appropriate" I'll be offended if they use the same term.
Then again I think gays wanting the "marriage" title, and not just the same rights seams just as stupid. And I do think it is more of a "we hate the typical religions, so were going to shove this in your face for attention" statement by gays than anything else.
But all history that I find of marriage, and ceremonies seams to be predated by any religious text, by government requirements. Other than a more general religious context of a committed partner, the churches becoming involved has always been a recognization of the governmental bond, not the opposite.
as far as I can tell marriage has always been more about government, long before religion got involved (obviously not in the US, but more a derived thing from the British history.) Governments all started more about how can the powerful control the masses, and when that becomes problematic religion takes over and tries to do the same. It is natural to try and control sex, and become the defacto "granters of permission" to demonstrate power/compassion/giving. So when it becomes obvious that religion and government have the same goals (a content controlled masses, following a consistent set of rules) naturally they are both going to go about doing this in similar manners.
sometime in the 90's all the issues of timing, etc started becoming fairly mundane tasks for motion controllers. Today anyone can buy motor controllers from hobby stores that can maintain pretty tight torque specifications. My RC plane has a less than $100 VFD drive controller in it capable of pretty good torque control, and weighing a few ounces (we did a first robotics project using these for a skid steered bot.)
For higher HP I have purchased motion controllers from automation direct for a few grand that can be setup in a torque following configuration (and controlled over a communications buss with 100ms response times.)
Now packing in 4 separate VFD drives (assuming these are AC) along with all the other needed wiring is going to eat up alott of space. Going DC would be easier, the DC drive trucks I worked with just wired the motors in series, that kept torque fairly well balanced.
Actually the IGBT electric drive vehicles have much better traction control than mechanical drive, because they can change their response a few hundred times a second if needed, measuring acceleration responses to precisely measured torques (just measure the current.)
I guess I should say how the mining application is different. They are RWD only, with motors inside dually wheels, with a solid axle box between duallys. This gives spacing to the bearings, room for gearing reduction, a good sealed box to push cooling air around everything. Also all diesel generator powered (no batteries) or trolley operated. The suspension is mostly the tires, which limits time at speed. They can go 40+ MPH, but not loaded for anything more than a few minutes, when they stop to dump and reload (may spend half their time loaded, but for short enough times to avoid too much heat buildup.) And only on well maintained roads, at least relative to the diameter of the tires and max speeds allowed.
as a engineer having worked on mining trucks for 12years with wheel motors, that page seams very guilty of avoiding context. Komatsu (mostly GE), Liehbier (Siemiens+GE), and Caterpillar all have wheel motored mining vehicles in production. 1) They show no gearing reduction, electric motors are generally very in-efficient at high torque, they mostly run at around 40:1 reduction in real world car app, this kind of gearing reduction is very pricey to create for high torques without lots of space. 2) Electric motors require a very large current to produce those torques (especially if no gearing reduction) and/or lots of windings (lots of weight) big wiring, and difficult power supplies 3) they show no room for excitation of the rotor, this means permanent magnets = rare earth magnets = $$$ + dense weight. 4) very small bearing surface area, lots of spinning mass = lots of momentum = lots of torque when turning, bumps, etc. Front wheels sounds like a very bad idea. 5) single efficiency number is suspicious, as stated above torque is poor efficiency, I do believe the efficiency at higher speeds but not at high torque. 6) sealing against weather/dirt/mud. Even if they get only 4% loss, good luck with cooling that and sealing it at the same time, without dumping the heat into the tires which will already be under trouble (see the suspended weight = extra tire abuse) 7) still no economical battery choice that can make electric cheaper than diesel over the lifetime of a battery.
That said, I want 2 for my 1970 2WD truck. It has room for them, and I could slap them on get regen braking, and emergency 4WD help. I don't need much help, and since 80% of braking energy is slowing from 75mph to 25mph so I don't care about the torque/efficiency from 25 to 0.
Is there a way to remedy the unsprung weight problem?
a flat road with no bumps, or rail.