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Toyotas Suddenly Accelerate; Owners Up In Arms

cyclocommuter writes "Some Toyota owners are up in arms as they suspect that accidents have been caused by some kind of glitch in the electronic computer system used in Toyotas that controls the throttle. Refusing to accept the explanation of Toyota and the federal government (it involves the driver's-side floor mat), hundreds of Toyota owners are in rebellion after a series of accidents caused by what they call 'runaway cars.' Four people have died." The article notes: "The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has done six separate investigations of such acceleration surges in Toyotas since 2003 and found no defect in Toyota's electronics."

1,146 comments

  1. Carmakers lie by loonwings · · Score: 1, Offtopic

    BMW insists there's nothing wrong with their electronics even though every single one of their cars indicates 4-6 MPH over true speed.

    1. Re:Carmakers lie by Ark42 · · Score: 4, Interesting

      You get more MPG if the odometer is tied to a speedometer that is calibrated to show a higher speed, and thus greater distance traveled.

    2. Re:Carmakers lie by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      Thats a feature. I am sure the fuel tank indicates low as well.

    3. Re:Carmakers lie by loonwings · · Score: 0, Redundant

      I don't believe the odometer is tied to the speedometer; GPS data indicates 4-6 mph less than the speedo reads, but the mileage covered is always accurate. Still, the MPG indicators seem to be a bit high too. Fucking Germans. If the rest of the car wasn't amazing I'd be pissed.

    4. Re:Carmakers lie by jaavaaguru · · Score: 1

      I've had a couple of cars that did that - based on a GPS unit's opinion of the actual speed. The car i have now says it is going at the same speed that the same GPS unit says. The two cars that got it wrong were in Europe and the other is in the US.

    5. Re:Carmakers lie by sunderland56 · · Score: 1

      You should never say "every single one" when there is a counterexample sitting in my driveway.

      Besides, I doubt that every single BMW ever made indicates 4-6 MPH when parked.

    6. Re:Carmakers lie by loonwings · · Score: 1

      Most, if not all, fuel gauges in recent cars indicate lower than actual.

    7. Re:Carmakers lie by Ark42 · · Score: 2, Insightful

      My Hyundai nearly always shows 3mph higher than my GPS. My GPS always agrees with the street-side radar things that flash your speed at you exactly. I never actually compared the long distance odometer readings to actual distance traveled to figure out if the speedometer needle is just aimed a few degrees too far to the right, or if the calibration of the axle rotation to distance traveled is just slightly off. I suppose it could be either one, but it's less evil to think that auto manufacturers just want you to drive slower and saver by tricking you into thinking you are going faster than you actual are that it is to think that they are trying to inflate their MPG figures.

    8. Re:Carmakers lie by Fotograf · · Score: 1

      every car in europe does it. it is made to cover difference in accepted tires and measurement error (against speed radars etc) and yes, traveled distance is affected by that too

      --
      God's gift to chicks
    9. Re:Carmakers lie by loonwings · · Score: 1

      I'm more willing to say 10% higher than indicated, but there seems to be a little bit of a curve. Also, I tend to concentrate on the road when in the lower echelons of speed. :P

    10. Re:Carmakers lie by bennomatic · · Score: 1

      Maybe your tires are just low on air.

      --
      The CB App. What's your 20?
    11. Re:Carmakers lie by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          Actually, the details I read on this were something like 10% over the actual ground speed. The ones built for European dealerships are worse about it than the American destinations. From what I read on the matter, most European cars do it to some degree, as a "safety feature". Even though the roads are rated for a speed, it will encourage drivers of their cars to drive a little slower, and make it appear that the cars are safer (lower incidents of speed related accidents, blah, blah, blah)

          In my American car (built in Canada with parts primarily sourced from Canada and Mexico), the speedometer is dead on with the GPS, which is nice. I have my GPS mounted at the roofline on the windshield, so I only have to glance up a few degrees, rather twice as far down to the actual speedometer. Both come pretty close to the road side "your speed is" signs. Unfortunately, the road side signs fluctuate +-3mph (usually). It makes me wonder about the accuracy of radar guns. If I'm not in traffic, I usually set my cruise control, so I don't accidentally get a ticket, so my speed doesn't fluctuate (according to the speedo and the GPS).

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    12. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Maybe I'm misreading this, but it's higher than actual. As in they hover around 3/4 tank and then drop like a stone until maybe 1/4 tank.

      And Honda was busted for slow odometers (i.e. better fuel economy and longevity)

    13. Re:Carmakers lie by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          Some cars do that because of the shape of the fuel tank too. Mine has a float in it, but the bottom of the tank is smaller than the top, so the first quarter tank is larger than the last. It's still fairly close. It's good enough to estimate my travel distance on an Interstate at a fixed speed (when that's possible). Just below empty still leaves 2 gallons though. :)

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    14. Re:Carmakers lie by Lakitu · · Score: 1

      Every odometer I've ever had was tied to the speedometer. How do you think they work? I even knew someone who disconnected the speedometer on a German made car in order to keep the mileage down. On the highway you could judge your speed by the number of RPMs, and use normal judgment otherwise.

      Perhaps your GPS is in error?

    15. Re:Carmakers lie by Lakitu · · Score: 3, Funny

      The BMWs I can remember all indicate 10 mph while parked.

      (the scale is from 10 mph to 160 mph)

    16. Re:Carmakers lie by maharb · · Score: 1

      Its not just BMW that does this. I am assuming they do it so they can't be blamed for people going too fast as well as protecting their customers from speeding as often. Its not like your BMW can't go way faster then it needs to anyway so who cares. As others have mentioned car gas gauges work in the same way. Show empty early to protect the customer from running out.

      Of course this generates problems once everyone finds out and decides to ignore the gauges.

    17. Re:Carmakers lie by Rising+Ape · · Score: 1

      In the UK at least, a speedometer must be accurate to within +10% and -0%, i.e. it must not underread. The obvious solution is for the manufacturers to design the thing to overread by a bit (e.g. 5%), so that any error is still likely to be in the acceptable range.

      Is the law similar elsewhere?

    18. Re:Carmakers lie by oldhack · · Score: 2, Informative

      Phhh. Beemers are a joy to drive, but their electronics suck goatse's ass. And that's been the case for decades.

      --
      Fuck systemd. Fuck Redhat. Fuck Soylent, too. Wait, scratch the last one.
    19. Re:Carmakers lie by Exp315 · · Score: 1

      Yes, it's true that BMW and many other auto makers set the speedometer to read high. It provides a safety margin for inaccuracies such as tire wear, winter snow tires, changing to tires with a slightly different size/profile. It is possible to set the computer to read correct speed though - it's one of options that dealer service centers can change. I should mention that although the speed reads too high on my BMW with the factory stock tires, the odometer is dead on (both compared to GPS).

    20. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny

      Of course, it's because of the Earth's rotation speed.

    21. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      Wheel Rotation...
      as long as you know your wheel radius and RPM you can calculate Distance

      (Pi*(Wheel Radius))^2 * RPM * Time = Distance.

    22. Re:Carmakers lie by overcaffein8d · · Score: 1

      yeah... even the airplanes?

      --
      Those of us who think they know everything annoy those of us who do.
    23. Re:Carmakers lie by loonwings · · Score: 1

      In the 9 months and 15000 miles I've had mine, I haven't had any issues with electronics besides the battery dying (probably my fault) and the fuel gauge fluttering (free replacement of entire instrument cluster). Of course once I hit 100k and shit isn't covered anymore, I'm sure everything will just start failing on me.

    24. Re:Carmakers lie by Sam36 · · Score: 0, Informative

      If you have ever taken a gas tank apart you will notice that the float in the tank only reaches to about 3/4 the way to the top of the tank. Hence the gauge will stay longer on fuel than any other position.

    25. Re:Carmakers lie by mister_playboy · · Score: 5, Interesting

      This is a "feature" of German cars due to a law in Germany mandating that the speedometer must NEVER read lower than real speed... even if the car has non-standard wheels and tires fitted.

      Porsche and BMW exaggerate speed the most, and the theory is because owners of these cars are quite likely to upsize their rolling stock (and thus make the speedo read lower). It's annoying, but it's simply in response to a legal requirement.

      Car and Driver did a test on several vehicles a bit over a year ago. GM vehicles were the most accurate... around +1 mph on average.

      --
      Do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the Law ::: Love is the law, love under will
    26. Re:Carmakers lie by nlawalker · · Score: 5, Informative

      How do you think the speedometer that the odometer is connected to works?

      Besides, wheel radius on a car is variable and is constantly changing. This is one of the primary reasons that speedometers read fast - the car maker provides a conservative buffer to ensure that no matter what your tire wear, air pressure and wheel size are, there is a much better chance of you traveling equal to or slower than the displayed speed, as opposed to faster than the displayed speed.

    27. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Relative to what? The Bavarian homeworld?

    28. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      News at 11, car speedometers are inaccurate by 3-7 mpg!

    29. Re:Carmakers lie by afidel · · Score: 1

      Could be worse, could be a Merc with the damn jog dial.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    30. Re:Carmakers lie by Lakitu · · Score: 1

      You are right, they work by knowing the number of rotations. It's also how the speedometer works. Rather than build two separate mechanisms to do the same thing, they use one.

    31. Re:Carmakers lie by uarch · · Score: 2, Informative

      That's a ridiculously uninformed comment.

      BMW speedometers read high but it's not due to a problem with the electronics. It is intentional and other replies have already stated why it's intentional.

      If you go into the car's service menu (you can reach it with a goofy pedal combination, similar to the old Nintendo up-down-up-down-a-b-start) you can find a menu that presents the ACTUAL speed which is clearly separated from the REPORTED speed.

    32. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

      GPS is horribly inaccurate to start. By that I mean its accuracy is out by a larger margin than you report the Hyundai showing. On a good day you'll be within 5% of your actual speed depending on the number of satellites in view. More sats, more accuracy.

      Those road side radar things, I don't know about their accuracy, but I would imagine angle of approach will have something to do with how accurate they are.

      Tire wear will have an impact on your car's actual speed, the more wear the faster your tires have to rotate to maintain the same speed. Depending on your speed this slight difference could account for your higher mph report.

      Basicaly I am trying to say is that anything better than about 5% margin of error and you should be happy with the reported speed.

    33. Re:Carmakers lie by broken_chaos · · Score: 1

      I'm fairly certain that most places have similar laws. I know my car's speedometer (and odometer) reads about 3-5% faster than actual speed(/distance), tested against both a GPS and road distance markers. It's a late 2006 Jetta station wagon.

    34. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

      It is so that they cannot be sued for displaying a lower speed than the real one - for which reason you could get a damn ticket. And that happens everywhere (or at least "almost" everywhere...)

    35. Re:Carmakers lie by gandhi_2 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      GPS was never intended to measure speed. All it does is get position and repeat. Speed is calculated based on change of position over time, which is good for averaging but NOT good for spot measurements.

      And there are several ways to calculate change of position, not all GPS's do it the same. Haversine, Spherical Law of Cosines, etc. Some may even use geometry on UTM (which can work cause rhumb lines are great circle lines in mercator projections). But again, what happens between refreshes and recalculations is lost in the averaging.

      Those road-side radar speed signs...real police radar (the kind admissible in court) have a calibration regimen in order to stay accurate. The roadside radar signs....not so much.

      I'm not arguing your speedometer is off...could be tire size, bad design, conspiracy...whatever. But GPS and radar signs aren't the standard by which to judge.

    36. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1, Insightful

      Yep, and we have *such* and exact value for Pi.
      Not to mention the radios of wheels are a perfect constant because tire-tread never wears out, and nobody ever uses non-standard wheel-sizes. Also, wheels never skid even for a moment, when turning there isn't a moment where two wheels are actually going the opposite direction....

      In short, accurate speed measurement is basically impossible from inside a car, there is a huge margin of error. In the interest of safety, car manufactures design their speedometers to overcompensate, so the margin is always above true speed. Reporting 5% under true speed would be much more dangerous than 5% over.

      One can only get a truly accurate speed measurement using an external measuring device.

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    37. Re:Carmakers lie by fractoid · · Score: 1

      Interesting. In Australia our design rules for road vehicles stipulate "within 10% for speeds over 40km/h" or something. That's one of the main arguments about speed cameras with stupidly tight tolerances here - you can think you're doing 100km/h in a 100km/h zone and actually be doing 110km/h, even if your speedo is within ADR specifications, but you can be booked for as little as 5km/h over the limit if they feel like being douchebags.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    38. Re:Carmakers lie by BigDXLT · · Score: 1

      My '08 Tundra is quite pessimistic about it's fuel level. It's actually off by quarter of a tank. Of course, I'll take that over the S-10 I had owned previous to that. When the gauge got down to a half tank, it would start going back towards full! When I first bought it, I thought the previous owner was quite generous giving me a full tank of fuel. :(

      Needless to say, I'm in the habit of watching the odometer instead of fuel gauges to know when I should visit the local petrol dealer.

    39. Re:Carmakers lie by Garridan · · Score: 1

      What? Challenging anecdotal evidence with math? I don't think that works in these parts... best to fire back with ad hominem.

    40. Re:Carmakers lie by sexconker · · Score: 2, Interesting

      It's akin to setting your clock 5 minutes ahead so you won't be late.
      It's fucking stupid and it defeats the point of the instrument.

    41. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Wow, that formula is horribly wrong. RPM doesn't read the revolutions of the tire, it reads the revolutions of the crankshaft. If you know the radius of the time...and the ratio of your final drive, and your transmission gearing you can calculate distance. Besides, (pi*R)^2 ?!

      For a rear wheel drive car:

      RPM * rear gear ratio * transmission gear ratio * 2 * pi * r * time in minutes = Distance

    42. Re:Carmakers lie by drtsystems · · Score: 1

      Which is why speedometers normally read high. Carmakers would rather try for say 3mph above the real speed so -5% is still above the real speed. Having a car lie to you and say your going 65 when your going 60 is better (and less likely to cause liability and outrage for speeding tickets) than a speedometer saying your going 60 when your going 65.

    43. Re:Carmakers lie by drtsystems · · Score: 1

      Except if your clock has an error of +/- 5 minutes.

    44. Re:Carmakers lie by drtsystems · · Score: 1

      So two electronics problems within 15k miles? Thats more a statement to unreliability

    45. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      GPS is horribly inaccurate to start.

      _Your GPS device_ might show you an inaccurate reading, but otherwise that sentence is pretty much untrue.

      It is true that GPS as a technology can't respond to sudden changes in speed as fast as a typical car speedometer. Still, it is definitely the more accurate technology if you use longer measurements.

    46. Re:Carmakers lie by Quothz · · Score: 2, Informative

      Yep, and we have *such* and exact value for Pi.

      Are you insane? We have as exact a value for pi as we need, far more accurate than any machine tools we can construct. Accurate enough to measure the entire universe down to Planck values, if it comes to that. Speedometers are rough, but it ain't because we don't know enough digits of pi.

    47. Re:Carmakers lie by Majin+Bubu · · Score: 1

      My Toyota Yaris does (GPS-speed) about 3 km/h less than what the speedometer shows, which is actually quite good, as the typical error is about 10 km/h or so.

      Never had any problem with "engine surges". I don't have cruise control nor an automatic stick, here in Italy cars typically have gear sticks.

      --
      Ander

      @=

    48. Re:Carmakers lie by MadnessASAP · · Score: 1

      Your speedometer MAY be out by as mush as 5 whole kmph (or mph). No police officer is going to give you a ticket for going 5 over the speedlimit so don't even think of using it as an excuse.

      --
      I may agree with what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to face the consequences of saying it.
    49. Re:Carmakers lie by Carewolf · · Score: 1

      All cars show up to 10% higher speed than what you actually travel. The car can't know how large tires you are using and assumes the largest that can be fitted, which usually means larger than what is default. If old "ordinary" tires, this is around 10% compared to large alu-tires.

    50. Re:Carmakers lie by bemymonkey · · Score: 1

      Aren't they required to do that in order to give you headroom for staying under the speed limit? Sure, an exact reading would be better, but what if they indicated 4-6MHP UNDER true speed? :P

    51. Re:Carmakers lie by Toonol · · Score: 1

      Christ, you would think they would be able to narrow down PI to within 5%. Maybe with the next batch of supercomputers, we'll get more precise than "3.1 something".

    52. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1

      Okay... I did cite a whole bunch of the main reasons why speedometers are inaccurate, and I agree, most of them are simply measurement difficulty.

      What I was responding to with the only line you seem to have noticed was the parents claim that since we know how to calculate the circumference of a circle using Pi and the radius we can therefore calculate distance with perfect accuracy.
      Since we can't know the true value of Pi, we cannot calculate circumference from radius accurately, though it's true that we can do it more accurately than we can actually measure it (which mind you - applies to the radius as well).

      My point, which you missed, is that mathematics is simple and logical and straightforward but the real world isn't, and the parent doesn't seem to grasp that while we can do maths with (near) perfect answers, there will always be a margin of error in the application of these results to the real world for a lot of reasons.

      The main reason in this case is that Euclidean geometry is filled with a whole lot of assumptions in it's definitions, it's based in fact, on the maths as it would apply to a whole bunch of things that can never exist - like perfect spheres or circles, in fact the most fundamental Euclidian shape 'the point' - is physically impossible to create (at least out of matter) - all known matter have dimensions, and the very definition of a point is that it doesn't have any size in any of them...

      Maths is an abstraction - that's what MAKES it useful - it allows us to make general rules about the universe that applies with a large degree of accuracy to a whole lot of different things (we can use the same sum to calculate the circumference of a tire or the Earth's equator) but when doing engineering, it's very important to remember that the abstraction is not the real world. Neither of the above is a perfect circle and this introduces inaccuracy. How much inaccuracy and how much compensation to do is determined by the application. 12741 km is not the EXACT circumference of the earth, but it's quite close enough for almost every purpose... sometimes though, you may need to know it in millimeters - then you need to do the same sum to a much more complex degree, and use much better measuring tools.

      And that my friends, is why some things work in theory but not in practice.

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    53. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1, Funny

      Christ, you would think ANYBODY would have read more than the first damn LINE I wrote....

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    54. Re:Carmakers lie by vtcodger · · Score: 1

      ***Every odometer I've ever had was tied to the speedometer. How do you think they work?***

      Yes and no. Both work off information from the transmission. A rotating cable in older vehicles, a digital signal in newer ones.

      But they display different things -- distance in one case, distance divided by time in the other. Moreover, the classical speed display is an analog meter sort of thing whose reading generally is not quite a linear function of speed. So, it's not only possible, but usual, for the odometer and speedometer to have different accuracy even though they work off the same distance data.

      --
      You can't see ANYTHING from a car, You've got to get out of the goddamned contraption and walk...Edward Abbey
    55. Re:Carmakers lie by aetherworld · · Score: 1

      The odometer isn't tied to the speedometer, at least not on my VW GTI. I actually re-calibrated the speedometer to show 3mph less (a tedious process by the way) so it now nearly always matches the speed shown by the GPS. I think parent is correct, auto manufacturers just want you to drive slower and saver. Also it's pretty safe to say you won't get a ticket if your speedometer says you're going 52/53 in a 50 zone.

    56. Re:Carmakers lie by tomatensaft · · Score: 1

      Huh, where is math here? Same anecdotal evidence and inductive logic at best.

    57. Re:Carmakers lie by osu-neko · · Score: 1

      Christ, you would think ANYBODY would have read more than the first damn LINE I wrote....

      Not really. When the first thing you write is utterly absurd, no one bothers to read further. What would be the point? You already know the poster is too far disconnected from reality to have a valid opinion on the subject...

      --
      "Convictions are more dangerous enemies of truth than lies."
    58. Re:Carmakers lie by jimicus · · Score: 1

      Depends also on the laws of the country where the car is sold.

      Here in the UK a speedo may overread by as much as 10% but it may not underread at all. As a consequence, most car speedometers tend to overread.

    59. Re:Carmakers lie by jimicus · · Score: 1

      Except if your clock has an error of +/- 5 minutes.

      Then you need a new clock.

    60. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1

      Well, if you read a single sentence, without the context in which it was written and declare it absurd - that is a fallacy.
      Specifically - it's a strawman attack.

      The statement by itself would be rather absurd, in the context of the post as a whole it was a sensible reality check, see my OTHER response where I clarify it even better.

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    61. Re:Carmakers lie by JosKarith · · Score: 1

      Well, the ancient Egyptians thought Pi was 3, and they built some pretty impressive stuff. Then again I guess a slightly inaccurate value of Pi didn't mess with the whips too much.

      --
      'Don't worry' said the trees when they saw the axe coming, 'The handle is one of us.'
    62. Re:Carmakers lie by afex · · Score: 4, Funny

      and they built some pretty impressive stuff.

      little do we know, the pyramids were actually supposed to be spherical : (

    63. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1

      Actually, that's not always where it's measured, though it's a common one. I had a '99 Renault Megane where the speedometer just completely stopped working one day after an emergency handbrake turn (don't ask).

      The renault (or at least, THAT renault) has a device on the front axels that looks like a wide gearwheel, it doesn't gear into anything though, it passes a small laser-beam and an optic-sensor, as the little gear wheel turns, it interrupts the beam and a small digital computer measures the "clicks" (yep, if this sounds remarkably like how a mouse wheel works, it's because it's virtually the same design).
      Of course, after spending a fortune to replace these... it turned out it wasn't where the fault lay. It took months to get sorted and lots of mechanic visits. Ultimately, it turned out during the emergency turn the battery had spilled acid, some of which had dropped on the circuitry that actually *counts* the clicks from optic-sensor, frying it.

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    64. Re:Carmakers lie by ozmanjusri · · Score: 1
      Your speedometer MAY be out by as mush as 5 whole kmph (or mph).

      My shpeedo's fine, ossifer. Is thish dam road thash mushy.

      I love youse guys.

      Hic.

      --
      "I've got more toys than Teruhisa Kitahara."
    65. Re:Carmakers lie by voss · · Score: 1

      I would be far more concerned if a speedometer was showing 4-6 mph UNDER true speed

    66. Re:Carmakers lie by lambent · · Score: 1

      you're really stretching on this one. using the fact that pi is an irrational number to support an argument that real life doesn't match up with measurements .... you're really off by several orders of magnitude, here. you'd do far better to attack imprecision in the manufacturing process, or aberrations caused by real world use.

      pi is not why some things work in theory, but not in practice. you'd know that if you had more than a passing flirtation with either of those two nouns.

    67. Re:Carmakers lie by siloko · · Score: 2, Insightful

      which is good for averaging but NOT good for spot measurements

      Spot measurements? For speed? GPS does the same as any speed measurement - calculates the time it takes to cover a prescribed distance, if you know of another way I'd be interested ;)

    68. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 0

      Did I say that ? Get over the strawman dude...

      Sheez... Pi is one example of maths and reality not quite matching - I gave a bloody paragraph full of others. I wasn't ATTACKING anything, I was making a general statement.

      There are no perfect circles. The definition of a circle violates the rules of physics, as does a point, a line and a sphere, and triangle... these are abstractions, they were wonderfully USEFULL abstractions, but they are, nonetheless not real things.

      A point has no size, a line has no with, a triangle has not depth (neither does a circle), a sphere is at least possible in dimensions - but physically impossible except perhaps at the exact center of the universe - everywhere else it WILL be distorted by gravity (in the center of the universe it will ALSO be under effect of gravity, but it may just be equal in all directions).

      Very OFTEN the reason some things work in theory and not in practice, is because what we can do mathematically using models of impossible perfection cannot be replicated in reality. Are you happier with this version of the exact same sentence ?

      Or are you one of those people who think that since thermodynamics predict that gas models that are perfect spheres and bounce without ever losing energy have increasing entropy, that all things in the universe must have increasing entropy ?
      Reality-check, thermodynamics is wonderful for predicting what gasses will do, provided you're not predicting anything that is actually affected by what it makes assumptions about (real gas molecules aren't spherical and they have this little thing called friction which leads to energy loss when they hit one another)... but the second rule of thermodynamics does not tell us what say... planets or monkeys will do.

      Assuming the universe will end up with all matter smeared out evenly, because sooner or later that's the lowest energy state of gas in a container... that's taking an abstract model beyond it's usefulness and making predictions about reality that don't hold up (for starters... this classic interpretation is in direct contradiction to what the Einstein equations tell us the universe ought to do over time). I also loved "the last question", it's probably Asimov's single best work - but sorry, he got the science on that one dead (if you'll excuse the pun) wrong.

      Same goes for Euclidean geometry if you forget that the shapes it deals with don't exist.

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    69. Re:Carmakers lie by puthan · · Score: 1

      This is probably due to the speedometers being calibrated for fully (very fully) inflated tyres, where the radius of the tyre would be bigger. The speedometer is based on the number of rotations of the wheel.

    70. Re:Carmakers lie by cmdr_tofu · · Score: 1

      Could underinflated tires be the culprit? I am not a car mechanic, but I believe overinflating your tires should make you go further with each revolution. Perhaps the car speedometer only numbers number of tire revolutions and so cannot be 100% spot on accurate?

    71. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 0, Offtopic

      And before somebody get's all flamey about that, I KNOW energy never gets lost. Friction does however cause energy conversions and transfers which thermodynamics do not consider or keep track off, so for the purposes of the discussion it's "lost" (well more technically, it's over there on the other side where we're not looking).

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    72. Re:Carmakers lie by Selivanow · · Score: 1

      It is funny you say that....you should notify the officer that gave me a ticket for 35 in a 30. I was going 35. He was a prick.

      --
      -- ...trying to make digital files uncopyable is like trying to make water not wet. -Bruce Schneier
    73. Re:Carmakers lie by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      The main reason is speed radars, or more accurately the morons who are challenged by the concept of a speed limit .
      Speed cameras already allow for a buffer and error. This creates a situation where I can be confident driving 10 km/h over the limit, but not if it's a 30km/h limit, because the margins are too small.
      Shear stupidity.

      Many cars actually have some kind of feature for service and testing which will for example show the real speed on the radio display after pushing a certain sequence.

    74. Re:Carmakers lie by itsenrique · · Score: 1

      bmw speedometers go from 0 - 20 - 40 - 60 on the major increments, with unmarked lines for 10 - 30 - 50 - 70. so anything under 10 is just sort of a ? and as soon as you are moving it infers you are going 10mph (probably 4-6 over) (at least in my 328i '97)

    75. Re:Carmakers lie by itsenrique · · Score: 1

      This has to do (i have heard) with laws in either Germany or the EU dictating that sports cars of a certain class must show a higher readout because it slows people down. Wish someone from Germany could chime in.

    76. Re:Carmakers lie by FictionPimp · · Score: 1

      Nope, but they will frequently write your ticket as showing you only going 5 over as a 'gift' to you when they pull you over going 15 over.

      I've never understood how that legally works.

    77. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sheez... Pi is one example of maths and reality not quite matching...There are no perfect circles. The definition of a circle violates the rules of physics, as does a point, a line and a sphere, and triangle... these are abstractions, they were wonderfully USEFULL abstractions, but they are, nonetheless not real things.

      We can't get past your Pi example because it is insane, as is everything else in that sentence.

      No, the wheel is not a perfect circle. It's entirely likely that there are no perfect circles. That's not, in any way shape or form because "the definition of a circle violates the rules of physics. It most certainly does not. Why would you even think that? Because the number of digits are infinite? That doesn't mean that the circumference or radius have impossible values. If you had a perfect circle of radius exactly 1 cm, the circumference is exactly 2*Pi cm. So if you unrolled the circle and measured it with a ruler you'd find that the circumference is within the 6 and 7 cm mark. If you have more granularity you'd find it's between the 6.2 and 6.3 cm marks. If you have further granularity in that ruler, it's going to be between 6.28 and 6.29 cm marks.

      The length isn't some impossible number. Our measuring system in base-10 isn't the best one to measure it is all. It's like trying to measure 0.1 (a number with finite digits in base-10) in base-2. You'll find it has an infinite number of digits. If you want to measure that circumference exactly, have a ruler that is marked in base-Pi. It's going to show up at EXACTLY 2 cm (base-Pi). The reason we don't have perfect circles has nothing to do with not knowing Pi exactly, nothing to do with them being impossible in physics. It's like asking why planets aren't square. They're roughly spherical because gravity is acting in all directions simultaneously. It's not a perfect circle because there are other forces at play.

      Your ruler, of course, does not have the markings in the EXACT right place. Look up uncertainty. Uncertainty can be quantified and measured. We can measure how far from a circle a tire is, we can find the uncertainty in our measurements, we could be as accurate as we need to be. We could find your speed, using wheel rotation, to within 0.00000000001 +- 5% mph if enough effort was put into it to measure every component to that level of precision. Nobody does that, because it doesn't fucking matter, and you really don't care if you're going at 60 mph or 61 mph. You only care if your measurement is sufficiently far off that you're going to get pulled over by a cop.

    78. Re:Carmakers lie by Lordy2001 · · Score: 1

      I always heard that 20 mph over the limit is considered reckless driving. So their "gift" would be the fact that they are too lazy to drag your ass in. So they fudge the number and just give you a ticket.

    79. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I was doing an indicated 88 MPH in a new Ford F-150. The trooper confirmed that the speedo was exactly correct.

    80. Re:Carmakers lie by OnlineAlias · · Score: 1

      In addition, a GPS has no such bias to show a higher reading, like a speedometer does. A GPS is more accurate, a speedometer more precise.

    81. Re:Carmakers lie by Cornelius+the+Great · · Score: 1

      Gift or not, it's the same points off your license, and therefore you pay the same increased premiums for car insurance. Still, the cop was simply being a dick. A difference of 5mph can easily be explained by different wheels than stock or different tires. Or a speedometer that reads too low even for stock tires. Or a radar gun that hasn't been calibrated recently. Or the temperature that day (which affects the expansion of air inside the tire). There are too many variables for such a small variance in speed readings.

      Any judge with a brain would dismiss such a small offense (at least the first time) if you plead not guilty. Also, it won't hurt to get a traffic attorney (if your state has them)- only cost me $100 to get out of a 41-in-a-35 ticket, but it saved me many times that down the road in insurance costs.

      --
      Sigs are for losers
    82. Re:Carmakers lie by mcgrew · · Score: 1

      How about that, my American made (well ok, Crysler is paer German) car's speedometer always matches the radar signs. However, if you change tires and they're not quite as big as the originals your speedometer will measure low no matter what car you're driving.

      The pimps' and dope dealers' cars here are usually older "classics", restored and tricked out with fancy paint (cartoon characters are in style now I see), spinners, and those new eighteen or twenty inch wheels with the funny looking tires that aren't nearly as tall as older tires (I don't know how to describe them well) certainly have their speedometers wrong.

    83. Re:Carmakers lie by 644bd346996 · · Score: 1

      The Doppler effect can be used by a radar system to determine the relative speed of an object with a single, arbitrarily short pulse. If you want to be pedantic, you can certainly argue that this is still essentially the same thing, but I think most people will accept that a method that can only be explained with quantum mechanics is different enough.

    84. Re:Carmakers lie by Cornelius+the+Great · · Score: 1

      If automakers wanted you to drive slower and safer, they would set the speedometer to read high- ie, it reports 60 when you're really doing 55. The upside is that your mpg may improve as well.

      And while the odometer isn't directly tied to the speedometer, they're usually driven by the same shaft- I've fixed both in several vehicles. Changing tire diameter will affect both. Changing shaft itself can affect both as well, but typically, the gears that break and need replacing are the ones connecting the shaft to the odometers/speedometers. Aside- it's funny how legally you cannot roll back an odometer, but nothing legally prevents one from inserting a high ratio gear to report much lower mileage for future drives (not that I'd do that- I'm extremely careful about maintenance scheduling on my vehicles).

      --
      Sigs are for losers
    85. Re:Carmakers lie by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      The few cars in which I've checked the speedometer with a GPS or road markings have all read slightly high (usually more like 2 km/h). I figured it was so if you got a ticket you couldn't blame the car company.

    86. Re:Carmakers lie by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      We periodically have "odometer test zones" where lines are painted on the highway at 1 km intervals for a few km. If you have a watch you can turn them into accurate speedometer test zones. The GPS usually agrees closely with the test zone measurement (averaged over a reasonable distance), and any speedometer I've checked consistently reads a little bit high.

    87. Re:Carmakers lie by bampot · · Score: 2, Informative

      This is exactly correct. Mechanical speedos are designed to show an approximation of speed and will always err on the side of caution by reading high - it has nothing to do with massaging MPG figures. If it were possible to be going faster than the indicated speed then manufacturers would be liable to paying for every speeding ticket ever issued. If I'm going through a fixed speed camera bang on the speed limit, I don't want to get nicked because my speedo under-read by a few mph.

      A few years ago I took part in a charity 'run-what-you-brung' motorcycle event, which consisted of 2 miles of pristine runway, with a calibrated radar trap in the middle. Even though my fastest indicated speed was 180mph, the maximum speed recorded by the radar was only 165mph; a full 15mph out. That was on a Suzuki GSX-R750, but some other bikes had much bigger discrepancies, from speaking to the riders up to 20-25mph in some cases. Note that sports-bike riders generally don't care about mpg either.

    88. Re:Carmakers lie by amoeba1911 · · Score: 1

      BMW insists there's nothing wrong with their electronics even though every single one of their cars indicates 4-6 MPH over true speed.

      So when the car is stationary with true speed of 0 MPH, the indicator is indicating 4 MPH?? That seems highly unlikely. More likely you probably mean it's a percentage over the actual speed, that would make sense, and here's why:
      Look at tread first: Suppose your tires are exactly 18" diameter + tread... minimum legal tread limit is 2/32", tires normally come with 11/32" of tread. So, simply running low on tread will shrink the tire by 9/32", and cause the car to read higher speed limit by a whopping 1.5% ... but wait, there's more!
      Did you ever notice tires inflate and deflate? If you over inflate the tire, you could get it to swell up by almost half an inch, or maybe more, so half inch of difference on 18" tire is about 3%... combine the two and you get about 4.5%. But wait, there's more!
      The metal rim also expands and shrinks slightly with temperature! This is not going to make as much of a difference as the other two, but you still have to factor it into the equation.

      You can't have a speedometer that's showing less speed than actual speed because that would be illegal (illegal to drive a car on public roads without a speedometer that shows actual speed at the least). That explains why speedometers on all cars almost always read higher than actual speed, because they simply can't be allowed to go under the actual speed, and there are lots of factors involved.

      Now, BMW being a big company and all could come up with a way of calibrating the speedometer with the GPS. Unfortunately, as easy as it would be for a dick like me to duct tape a system that can do that, for a big company like BMW there would be millions of dollars worth of R&D, testing, crash testing, fool proofing etc to go through... I don't think you'll see GPS synchronized speedometers anytime soon.

    89. Re:Carmakers lie by commodore64_love · · Score: 4, Informative

      My 1987 Plymouth reports speed 5mph lower than actual. I discovered this after getting two tickets, and the officer told me his radar showed 5mph faster than I was driving. Not the designers' fault, but my own since I inadvertently bought tires that were one size too big than the original stock. (shrug)

      Back to Toyota:

      Prius owners have been reporting over 5 years now that their cars will suddenly accelerate for no reason. I know at least one guy who said the car started moving while he was filling it with gas, so clearly not driver error. The car has a computer and the computer has a mind of its own. Now it seems that Prius tech is being applied to mainstream cars like Camrys, so what was once just a rare occurrence is becoming commonplace.

      Toyota has a bad habit of denying culpability.

      When midsize SUV and sedan engines started failing at only 20-30,000 miles Toyota refused to honor the engine warranty, and owners were forced to spend thousands of dollars for new engines. Toyota blamed the owners for failing to change their oil (even though owners had dealer receipts proving oil changes happened). Later-on it was discovered the engine ran hot and basically cooked the oil, hence early engine seizure, but Toyota still refused to honor the warranty. Eventually the US DOJ became involved and forced Toyota to refund customers for engine repairs, or else face a class-action lawsuit.

      It appears Toyota is once-again being stubborn, and it may take legal action from the U.S. or EU to force them to do the right thing.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    90. Re:Carmakers lie by russotto · · Score: 1

      GPS was never intended to measure speed. All it does is get position and repeat. Speed is calculated based on change of position over time, which is good for averaging but NOT good for spot measurements.

      This is a common misconception. It's entirely false. GPS devices calculate an instantaneous speed directly from the doppler shifts of the satellite signals. The display speed (and position) is indeed filtered, but the speed is not derived from successive position measurements.

    91. Re:Carmakers lie by aetherworld · · Score: 1

      If automakers wanted you to drive slower and safer, they would set the speedometer to read high- ie, it reports 60 when you're really doing 55. The upside is that your mpg may improve as well.

      Yes, that is what they do and that is what i said they do. I just looked up what Volkswagen has to say about this: "To allow for possible differences in overall tire diameter with different tire manufacturers and wheel sizes, a factor is designed into the speedometer function that increases the displayed speed. "

      And while the odometer isn't directly tied to the speedometer, they're usually driven by the same shaft- I've fixed both in several vehicles. Changing tire diameter will affect both. Changing shaft itself can affect both as well, but typically, the gears that break and need replacing are the ones connecting the shaft to the odometers/speedometers.

      In my car, the speedometer is not a gear driven system at all. It uses magnetic pulses so once you have the pulses/sec, adjusting it is a matter of modifying the ECU. 500 pulses per second means I'm travelling 88 ft/sec or 60 mph.

      As a matter of fact (at least on my GTI) the odometer uses the data reported via the CANBUS. The ECU processes this data and then sends it to the computer that displays your current mph. The distance impulse number used to calculate your speed can be changed in the ECU!

      Aside- it's funny how legally you cannot roll back an odometer, but nothing legally prevents one from inserting a high ratio gear to report much lower mileage for future drives (not that I'd do that- I'm extremely careful about maintenance scheduling on my vehicles).

      Actually that too is illegally here (Europe). I even had to get my speedometer and odometer verified by a professional when I changed my 15" rims to the new 19" ones.

    92. Re:Carmakers lie by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      It's the nature of the federal regs. They allow a certain amount of error in speedometers, but the margin is skewed greatly towards OVER-reporting. It's something like -1mph/+8mph allowable deviation. BMW just figured out the possible variables, and said "fuckit, if we report -5mph, we'll always be compliant".

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    93. Re:Carmakers lie by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Except that the GPS does not measure 'distance traveled'.

      It measures change in location, which is not the same thing at all. If I get in my car and drive five miles, I will probably end up 4 miles or less away from my house as measured by GPS. Roads are not straight. If it took me 5 minutes to get there, I drove at 60 mph, not 48 mph.

      Now, the GPS tries to check location often enough that it is moderately correct, and tries to guess based on what road you're on. (I.e., it assumes you drove on a road instead of driving straight.)

      But the inherent inaccuracy of GPS combined with the polling rate, and the inability of maps to include every twist and turn in the road, mean that it's never going to be as accurate as actually measuring how far the wheels traveled, which will exactly match the distance traveled. (Barring any fictionless movement like hydroplaning and skidding, but that's just silly nitpicking.)

      The problem with measuring via the wheels, is that we're actually measuring via the axis, and people do not recalibrate their rotation calculation to the wheel diameter when their wheel changes size. If people would calibrate them, they'd be much more accurate than GPS.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    94. Re:Carmakers lie by mcgrew · · Score: 1

      Yep, and we have *such* and exact value for Pi.

      The "Cajun Cook" Justin Wilson told the story of a Cajun who sent his son to college. When the kid came home on break, Dad asked him "Well, son, wadja larn at that thar school?"

      The son thought a minute ans said "Pi R square."

      The dad says "What??? What kind o' damn fool thangs they been teachin' you, boy? Pie are round, Cornbread are square!"

    95. Re:Carmakers lie by MiniMike · · Score: 1

      when turning there isn't a moment where two wheels are actually going the opposite direction....

      Please tell me if this is a feature of the car you are driving, or because of how you are driving it.

      Of course the wheels on either side spin at different speeds while turning, but I've never seen a car where they are going in the opposite direction while turning (under normal driving conditions, and not mud/ice/snow/pedestrians).

    96. Re:Carmakers lie by aspelling · · Score: 1

      BMW electronics (I have 335i) is BUGGY.
      Sometimes to close the car I have to get back into it start and stop engine and try to re-lock it again.
      Sometimes only one side of the car shuts the lights off (this has happened at low temperatures).
      Radio display is unreadable when hot
      Otherwise, it is really ultimate driving machine and nothing but Mazda comes close to it in term of handling

    97. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      In Pennsylvania at least, that car would not pass inspection (that is not to say it won't get a sticker). As part of the annual inspection process the technician puts the car on a machine that isolates the drive wheels and the car is driven for a period of time. The speed on the speedometer is compared to the read out on the screen and at the same time data is collected for emissions from the exhaust.

      Any mismatch and the technician should notice and fix the problem or fail the car.

      Also a common cause of that mismatch is the replacement of the tires. If you do not replace with the same size spec'd out by the manufacturer then you can throw out the calibration of x rpm's per mph.

    98. Re:Carmakers lie by MikeBabcock · · Score: 1

      Not that its relevant in this case, but many people don't realize their GPS is tracking speed only in two dimensions and not taking into consideration any incline. The only time my GPS and speedometer are out of whack on my car are when I'm going up or down a hill, in which cases the GPS shows a slower speed than does my speedometer. The rest of the time however, my dash speedometer is actually a bit slower than the GPS (gotta watch those speeding tickets).

      --
      - Michael T. Babcock (Yes, I blog)
    99. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This. If you have a GPS device that isn't a software running on a Windows Mobile computer and reading an NMEA data stream, then you can actually see it for yourself: The speed reading is surprisingly accurate and stable even when the location is jumping all over the map.

    100. Re:Carmakers lie by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      You can't sue if the indicated speed is +/-5% of the actual speed. Speedometers are not guaranteed to be precise. Federal regulation only requires them to be within 5%. Now, if you have a car that's also sold in the EU, you will invariably get a speedo that reads high. Their regs state that a speedo must be set such that A) it never reads less than the actual speed, and B) it never reads more than 110% of the actual speed. In other words, they're held to +10%/-0%

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    101. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1

      Okay, that one was a bit of an exageration/oversimplification.

      What actually happens (this is with front-wheel drive cars, rear-wheel-drive and permanent 4x4 have different setups) is that the engin only pulls on both front wheels when you're going straight. As soon as you turn, it disengages the wheel on the side to which you are turning. So your rear wheels are just tagging along anyway, when you turn, so is one of the wheels on the left. If you turn sharply enough, you will indeed reverse them - but that takes a pretty extreme turn. They are only turning at all because of friction with the road - which is a force going the opposite way of the car ;)

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    102. Re:Carmakers lie by cynyr · · Score: 2, Interesting

      your in car GPS is using the unscrambled height measurements so that you can know your true position? You did know that consumer GPS doesn't have the real height in it, right? it uses an altimiter to guess at your height. Now if you had to sign a paper and pass a background check and had a reason to have it (say you are the party responsible for maintaining the safe "cap" over a contaminated area) Expecting your GPS to be more accurate than your car is folly. your GPS is what? 3 feet? 5 feet? hmm pretty easy to get a 0 speed on that even when walking. :P

      --
      All of the above was encrypted with a Quad ROT-13 method. Unauthorized decryption is in violation of the DMCA.
    103. Re:Carmakers lie by operagost · · Score: 2, Informative

      Those funny tires are called low-profile. In North America, the ratio between the tread width and the sidewall height is expressed as a percentage in the tire size. It's the second number. For example, P225-50R16 would indicate that the sidewall is 50% of the tread width (225mm), i.e. about 113mm. The last number is the rim size, which is in inches for historical reasons. The thing that one should note is that it's perfectly possible to keep the same total wheel/tire combo height and thus, keep your speedometer accurate. All you have to do is reduce the profile when you increase the tire width or wheel size. I think that if you reduce the profile by 5 for every 20mm in tread width or every inch of wheel width, you stay pretty close. Unfortunately, the pimps like the full wheel well look, so they usually end up with a taller wheel. I assume they modify the wheel well, spacing, ride height, or axles to keep the tires from rubbing.

      --

      Gamingmuseum.com: Give your 3D accelerator a rest.
    104. Re:Carmakers lie by Dan+Ost · · Score: 1

      My fuel gauge shows empty and turns on the warning light when I've still got 3 gallons in a 13.2 gallon tank. That translates to over 100 miles of city driving left in the tank when it claims it's empty.

      My gripe list against my Honda isn't long, but this is near the top of the list.

      --

      *sigh* back to work...
    105. Re:Carmakers lie by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      I correct myself: EU regs, that should be. BMWs comply with EU speedometer regs. US regs are straight +/-5%. EU regs are +10%/-0%

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    106. Re:Carmakers lie by hrimhari · · Score: 1

      How about measuring the speed with which your wheel turns and extrapolating to the speed of the vehicle?

      If I understand it correctly, the rotation of magnets generates electric current directly related to the angular velocity, which is then extrapolated to the velocity.

      I believe it's something like min wheel radius x pi x angular velocity, the later being represented by the electric current.

      It's not the same as bicycle speedometers, which really measure the time between two passes of the magnet during one wheel revolution.

      --
      http://dilbert.com/2010-12-13
    107. Re:Carmakers lie by Cameleopard · · Score: 1

      little do we know, the pyramids were actually supposed to be spherical : (

      They could be considered very low polygon count domes.

    108. Re:Carmakers lie by HereIAmJH · · Score: 1

      Porsche and BMW exaggerate speed the most, and the theory is because owners of these cars are quite likely to upsize their rolling stock (and thus make the speedo read lower). It's annoying, but it's simply in response to a legal requirement.

      Wouldn't a better solution be a programmable speedometer like the trucking industry uses? Any time tire size or axle ratio is changed, you simply plug the new info into the computer and it adjusts. IMO, if Porsche and BMW do that, every vehicle they sell is defective. Their speedo is about as useful as a Windows progress bar.

      --
      Another day, another update to a Google android app.
    109. Re:Carmakers lie by plague3106 · · Score: 1

      Maybe a just would, but your first "court" isn't a court at all, its an administrative hearing, and unless you've gotten a test showing your spedometer is inaccurate, you're not going to be found not guilty. Even then, they could simply say "you were still speeding, whether you knew it or not."

    110. Re:Carmakers lie by DudeTheMath · · Score: 1

      It can't be arbitrarily short, just really short. You have to have it long enough to accurately measure the returned wavelength. Anything less than half a cycle is a guaranteed failure.

      --
      You save only 59 seconds over 8 miles by going 75 instead of 65. Do you really have to pass that guy? Do the Math!
    111. Re:Carmakers lie by hrimhari · · Score: 1

      Doesn't seem like he missed the point. By insisting on the pi detail, he is pointing out that imprecision between Math and real world has so little to do with the speedometer's innacuracy that it's irrelevant. And this, my friend, has nothing to do with things working in theory and not in practice.

      The theory and the practice in this case are: if we know the radius, we know the speed. Problem is, we don't know the radius, so let's take the minimum standard and add a buffer.

      That's where the real innacuracy probably comes from.

      --
      http://dilbert.com/2010-12-13
    112. Re:Carmakers lie by Random+Destruction · · Score: 1

      Yep, and we have *such* and exact value for Pi.

      We know it to 10^12 digits. That's a pretty bloody small margin of error

      Not to mention the radios of wheels are a perfect constant because tire-tread never wears out, and nobody ever uses non-standard wheel-sizes.

      Correct, wheel diameter changes

      Also, wheels never skid even for a moment,

      Generally they don't on the highway, or during any sort of steady-state operation on pavement.

      when turning there isn't a moment where two wheels are actually going the opposite direction....

      I don't know of any car that can turn this sharply. Either way, it would all work out if we could invent some sort of device that would let the wheels move at different speeds (even in different directions) such that they average out to the speed that the drive shaft is trying to drive the car at. I'd call it a differential. But that's just madness.

      Either way, my point is the measurement error is mostly just due to the speedo, and generally they are correct to better than 5%. They just aim high cause the government tells them to. The allowed tolerances are something like -0.5% to 7%, i forget exactly what, you'd have to look it up. So they aim in the middle of that range and you always get a few percent over.

      --
      :x
    113. Re:Carmakers lie by plague3106 · · Score: 1

      If automakers wanted you to drive slower and safer, they would set the speedometer to read high- ie, it reports 60 when you're really doing 55. The upside is that your mpg may improve as well.

      Slower != safer, as evidenced by the fact that the majority of accidents are on LOCAL roads. The "safe" limits are the ones people would mostly pick for themselves anyway. Civil engineering uses that to set the standard at the 85th percentile, which due to policics, is not used. Instead lower limits are forced, resulting in more accidents.

      One car company (I don't recall at the moment) was found to be messing with odometers so that they had you traveling greater distances than you actually did, so that your milage based warranty would expire sooner. That's pretty much the only reason a company would mess with something like that... not because they want you to be safe ; they want to make you think their car is safe so you'll buy it, but they don't actually care if you die in it or not. So again, greed beats out basic human compassion.

    114. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The other part of the inaccuracy could be how worn the tires are. Are the tires balding with some of the belts sticking out? or are they new tires with major tread showing? 16" new tire vs 15.75" worn tire is a 3% difference in circumference.

    115. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Gift or not, it's the same points off your license

      Actually, lots of states have point penalties proportional to how far over the limit you're going.

    116. Re:Carmakers lie by MiniMike · · Score: 1

      What actually happens (this is with front-wheel drive cars, rear-wheel-drive and permanent 4x4 have different setups) is that the engin only pulls on both front wheels when you're going straight. As soon as you turn, it disengages the wheel on the side to which you are turning.

      Are you sure this is how a differential works?

    117. Re:Carmakers lie by nukenerd · · Score: 1

      From what I read .. most European cars do it [speedometer reads high] to some degree, as a "safety feature". Even though the roads are rated for a speed, it will encourage drivers of their cars to drive a little slower, and make it appear that the cars are safer

      It's not for safety reasons directly, but for legal reasons. In the UK it is illegal to have a speedo that reads under (so the driver cannot use that as an excuse for speeding). They can however read 10% over. The car makers don't want to get sued by owners for getting caught speeding, so they calibrate the speedo for the extreme circumstance of new and over-inflated tyres, then allow more margin as well.

    118. Re:Carmakers lie by joggle · · Score: 1

      Never say never. At a recent GPS trade show some of the most popular devices for sale were systems that combined lasers and high-precision GPS receivers so that once properly rigged on a vehicle drive-by surveying could be done, accurately positioning all objects within a certain range of the vehicle as it drives by.

      Suffice it to say, if you can do that you can also accurately measure distances with GPS. Obviously, that is an extreme example but even consumer GPS receivers can measure distances rather accurately. While there are errors in your exact position, these errors change slowly so that the next position returned by your receiver will have nearly the same position errors as the previous position which gives a very accurate change in position from one second to the next.

      To rely solely on the wheels of your car you would need to know its radius to an extremely high degree of precision in order to match the accuracy of the distance returned by a GPS receiver.

      Roads don't need to be straight in order to get good distances as measured by a GPS. If you are turning sharply, you slow down so there will still be positions returned by the GPS during the turn. When you are moving faster you cannot turn as quickly. The only time you would have trouble is if there is a huge tree canopy or urban corridor blocking the GPS signals.

    119. Re:Carmakers lie by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      Also, a lot of people fit tyres of different diameter from those the car was designed for - so the revolutions per minute of the wheel can translate to quite a different speed from what the dial says.

    120. Re:Carmakers lie by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      BMW insists there's nothing wrong with their electronics even though every single one of their cars indicates 4-6 MPH over true speed.

      In the UK, at least, the law requires that the speedo is allowed to over-read by up to 10% but never under-read. Consequently, car manufacturers tend to aim for a 5% over-read.

    121. Re:Carmakers lie by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      If automakers wanted you to drive slower and safer, they would set the speedometer to read high...

      If they wanted you to drive slower and safer, they would position the driver's seat at the front of the car like some Aztec sacrifice and force you to pay attention.

    122. Re:Carmakers lie by nabsltd · · Score: 1

      your in car GPS is using the unscrambled height measurements so that you can know your true position? You did know that consumer GPS doesn't have the real height in it, right? it uses an altimiter to guess at your height.

      The full US satellite GPS accuracy is available to all GPS devices, and has been for nearly 10 years.

      Altitude is always an "estimate", as it is based on the mean sea level reference, but if you have at least 4 satellites as reference, this value is as accurately calculated as it can be.

    123. Re:Carmakers lie by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      Heh... I still have a great old car built in the days when it was common to approximate pi as 22/7 - for those of us who didn't have a convenient notch on our slide-rules. The car's over 60 years old, and will quite probably last as long again.

    124. Re:Carmakers lie by FireFury03 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      You did know that consumer GPS doesn't have the real height in it, right?

      Umm,you're not making sense. GPS gives you your position in 3 dimensions - height is an integral part of the calculation.

      it uses an altimiter to guess at your height.

      No... no it doesn't. None of my GPSes have a barometric altimeter in them. With a good constellation of at least 4 satellites you can get your 3D position with no external data (your GPS may use external data so as preexisting knowledge of your rough location to speed up the satellite acquisition, but that data is not actually required for the GPS to work). It is true that if you have a poor constellation (e.g. only 3 good satellites) then many GPSes start making assumptions about things like your altitude to fill in the missing data, but if you have a poor constellation then the DOP is going to be insanely bad anyway.

      Many GPSes use doppler shift as well as measuring how your position changes over time to calculate your speed, so the accuracy of your position may not be that important either.

      Expecting your GPS to be more accurate than your car is folly. your GPS is what? 3 feet? 5 feet? hmm pretty easy to get a 0 speed on that even when walking.

      You are making a faulty assumption. You are assuming that if a GPS is "accurate to 2 metres" that you are likely to see a large positional shift between one sample and the next. However, this isn't the case - whilst the position may be 2 metres off, that error is going to be relatively stable over short periods of time. i.e. if you read your position and are told it is 2 metres west of your real location, when you read the position 1 second later it will still be roughly 2 metres west of your real location, it won't suddenly have jumped to 2 metres east. So despite moderate positional errors, the speed can be quite accurate, especially when combined with doppler shift to help filter out sampling errors.

    125. Re:Carmakers lie by AJWM · · Score: 1

      You save only 59 seconds over 8 miles by going 75 instead of 65. Do you really have to pass that guy? Do the Math!

      On the other hand if I'm doing a 650-mile road trip, I'll save nearly an hour and a half driving 75 vs 65. Yeah, I did the math.

      --
      -- Alastair
    126. Re:Carmakers lie by hb253 · · Score: 1

      Simply wrong. Amazingly wrong. Stunningly wrong.

      --
      Self awareness - try it!
    127. Re:Carmakers lie by Cornelius+the+Great · · Score: 1

      Get a lawyer. If you show up to fight in court, you will likely lose. Have a traffic lawyer argue, it's a different story. Under most state laws, radar guns must be tested every so often- usually with tuning forks. Larger municipalities are keen enough to do this, sometimes daily, but small towns do not. Depending on their own logs, evidence may be inadmissible.

      You can reschedule these "hearings" to another date- chances are they won't show- but if they do, keep in mind that you're inconveniencing them even more. If the cop doesn't show up to court, it's thrown out.

      In many states, even if you're guilty, the lawyer can cut a deal with the DA and reduce the charge to a non-moving violation (I know they do this in Missouri). Downside is, you pay a larger fine (on top of lawyer fees), but you don't lose points on your license.

      Not an ideal world. The system is broken, but you can find loopholes.

      --
      Sigs are for losers
    128. Re:Carmakers lie by zmollusc · · Score: 1

      Hmmm, maybe not in your neck of the woods, but here in the UK you can get a ticket (and 3 points, collect 12 points in 3 years and lose your license ) for 33 in a 30. Mind you, getting up to 33 on the potholed, roadwork infested ( always digging up the services under the road, never resurfacing the road itself ) highways round here may be considered wild driving. Cop cars routinely zap around at double the limit with no safety issues though.

      --
      They whose government reduces their essential liberties for temporary security, receive neither liberty nor security.
    129. Re:Carmakers lie by mea37 · · Score: 1

      Could be underinflated tires. Or overinflated. Or normal, actually.

      The reading is based (indirectly) on the rotation of the tires and an estimate of how far you will go with each rotation. In all circumstances, tire motion is a combination of rolling and slipping. Differences in tire tread, road surface, weather conditions, all can impact the actual distance traveled.

      If you calibrate the spedometer for (tire circumferance * tire revs / hour), then you will have an upper bound on speed. That is, outside of a braking skid there's basically no way you're exceeding that speed. But, it also means the reading will be high in all practical circumstances.

      To those who've noted that GPS instant readings and roadside radar are also imperfect - that's true; hell, I've had my GPS claim I managed a top speed over 70MPH on a bicycle once (which I certainly did not). But if the two readings are agreeing I'll take that as higher-confidence than the spedometer.

    130. Re:Carmakers lie by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Surveying doesn't really have anything to do with anything. It happens at a single point in time, which is fine for determining location, but sucky for determining distance.

      Even things like driving on the inside or the outside of turns, which would be near impossible to determine via GPS, can amount to significant change in distance traveled. (Of course, this is nearly impossible for wheel measuring to get right either, as the wheels travel different distances on different sides of the car!)

      I.e, 100% perfectly accurate GPS devices that figure out your position every five seconds will not give you 100% accurate distance. Whereas correctly calibrated wheels will. (And wear isn't as big an issue there as you seem to think. Calibrating every 1000 miles or so should be enough.)

      If you're going to use lasers, though, they would actually be the best way to determine distance traveled. Just aim them at the ground, watch it go past, and, tada, you've solved all calibration problems involved in wheels. You can put them in the middle of the car, and you've solved the whole 'wheels traveling different distances' also. (As long as you're willing to accept 'how far the center of my car traveled' for 'how far my car traveled'.) Also you dealt with the skidding and whatnot of the wheels not moving.

      The only problem would be stuff splashing down there over the optics.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    131. Re:Carmakers lie by Quothz · · Score: 1

      Okay... I did cite a whole bunch of the main reasons why speedometers are inaccurate, and I agree, most of them are simply measurement difficulty.

      Sure, and I agreed that speedometers are rough. You even missed some significant stuff like temperature and tire pressure. (Changing tire sizes, which you mentioned, isn't really a factor tho', since in theory you're required to recalibrate after doing so: That's a user error, not a fault of the device.)

      Speedometers in the US can be off by as much as 5% coming out of the factory, and it's not uncommon for them to be operating with a 10% margin of error. No argument that they're not precise. I just wanted to raise the point that mathematics aren't a factor; the errors are due to limitations in engineering, manufacturing, and consumer budgets, not in our ability to calculate.

    132. Re:Carmakers lie by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      No you didn't. Because there are no cars on this planet that can go 650 miles at 75mph without stopping for gas. and you cant find a 650 mile stretch of road that has no cars or delays in it.

      Going 75 versus 65 will not get you there much faster unless you live in a fantasy world where there are no other cars and no stoplights or traffic delays. Let's forget that you will have an 11% increase in fuel economy by going slower therefore will probably have 1 less fuel stop (at 75mph you will probably have to make 2 fuel stops)

      you will not save nearly an hour, you will save maybe 15 minutes total, nothing worth the increased risk of having a 1 hour delay added by the officer writing you a ticket.

      You claim you did the math.... yeah, how a 5th grader would have done it.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    133. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1

      Well perhaps maths is less of a factor here than I was implying, though I was generalizing about a number of factors. It's still true though - maths is abstracted, and it's frequently invaluable not to forget that. As per my example of the earths circumference at the equator - that's a very rounded figure, and only accurate if you ignore that the earth is full of mountains, valleys, continents and oceans even just accounting for those would probably push the margin of error quite high, maybe at least 3 to 5 percent.

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    134. Re:Carmakers lie by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      I have a 1983 vehicle that has a digital speedo, and a 2001 vehicle that uses a cable.

      it's not a older/ newer. it's however they are designing it today.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    135. Re:Carmakers lie by maharb · · Score: 1

      I agree, kind of. It is worthless to those that know. I think the car companies don't tell you on purpose so that you aren't supposed to know.

      The main difference is that since a car company would be liable in many situations where errors occur with these gauges setting them in a way to minimize manufacturer liability is in their best interest. Clock companies are not liable if you get somewhere at the wrong time but imagine the lawsuits if cars started running out of gas early or were going 5 mph faster resulting in speeding tickets.

    136. Re:Carmakers lie by plague3106 · · Score: 1

      As I said, its an administrative session, not court, so no lawyers are allowed. You can appeal to a real court if you lose, but you have to pay the fine up front to do so, and lawyers are expensive.

    137. Re:Carmakers lie by Chris+Burke · · Score: 1

      Spot measurements? For speed? GPS does the same as any speed measurement - calculates the time it takes to cover a prescribed distance, if you know of another way I'd be interested ;)

      Your speedometer does it by multiplying wheel RPMs by (assumed) wheel circumference.

      Anyway, the point was, the speed measurement |(end +/- error) - (start +/- GPS error)|/time is going to be a lot more accurate when the start and end positions are very far apart to calculate e.g. average trip speed, vs measuring your "instantaneous" velocity by using measurements where the start and end are close together.

      GPS is not a good technology to use to measure your instantaneous speed.

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    138. Re:Carmakers lie by dgatwood · · Score: 1

      Having a car lie to you and say your going 65 when your going 60 is better (and less likely to cause liability and outrage for speeding tickets) than a speedometer saying your going 60 when your going 65.

      Exactly. Automobile manufacturers in many places are liable for damages if they report a speed that is slower than you are actually going. Thus, many (not all) intentionally miscalibrate their speedometers to read about 5% faster than reality to give themselves a safety margin at highway speeds even if the gear in the optical counter loses a tooth or gets clogged.

      --

      Check out my sci-fi/humor trilogy at PatriotsBooks.

    139. Re:Carmakers lie by iamhassi · · Score: 1

      "GPS is horribly inaccurate to start. By that I mean its accuracy is out by a larger margin than you report the Hyundai showing. On a good day you'll be within 5% of your actual speed depending on the number of satellites in view. More sats, more accuracy."**

      **citation needed

      --
      my karma will be here long after I'm gone
    140. Re:Carmakers lie by PerfectionLost · · Score: 1

      I don't seem to have this problem with my BMW.

    141. Re:Carmakers lie by Nicolay77 · · Score: 1

      One can't get a truly accurate speed measurement by measuring only wheel rotation, that's true.

      But I disagree with you about the 'external'.

      I predict that by using an optical sensor bigger but not too different to the ones we use every day in an optical mouse, the reported speed would be exactly the real one. Even in wet climate, as recent laser mouses have shown.

      --
      We are Turing O-Machines. The Oracle is out there.
    142. Re:Carmakers lie by Nicolay77 · · Score: 1

      I predict that by using an optical sensor bigger but not too different to the ones we use every day in an optical mouse, the reported speed would be exactly the real one. Even in wet climate, as recent laser mouses have shown.

      --
      We are Turing O-Machines. The Oracle is out there.
    143. Re:Carmakers lie by Klaus_1250 · · Score: 1

      No police officer is going to give you a ticket for going 5 over the speedlimit so don't even think of using it as an excuse.

      Where I live (the Netherlands), below 100km/h there is a 3 km/h correction (3% correction above 100km/h), so driving 54km/h in a 50km/h zone can get you a fine. Granted, a police officer isn't likely to stop you, but driving past a speed trap (which we have a LOT of) is going to land you a ticket.

      --
      It only takes one man to change the Wisdom of the Crowd to Tyranny of the Masses.
    144. Re:Carmakers lie by joggle · · Score: 1

      I was talking about real-time surveying done from a moving platform. The way it works is by keeping a very accurate position of the vehicle (to within millimeters), then using lasers to position nearby objects to similarly high accuracies relative to this vehicle.

      If you wanted to survey the location of 10 fence posts using this system, the vehicle would drive by a fence at time t1, get its own position then the position of the fence. At time t2 it would pass the next fence post and perform the same procedure. And so on for the rest of the fence posts.

      If it can accurately position each of these fences in an absolute frame of reference (which it does) then it obviously can accurately measure the distance between the posts (remember this is all done in real-time without stopping).

      Also, in the case of this vehicle, it is probably determining its position at a very high rate, up to 20 times per second.

      Your standard GPS will determine your position every second, not once every 5 seconds.

      You can't determine distance to 100% accuracy no matter what kind of technology you use. You can determine it to a very high degree of accuracy though.

      You also demonstrate why relying on wheels is not always an effective way to determine distance. There is no middle wheel so one side or the other will be used to determine distance. While usually it's assumed that this averages out over time, it isn't always the case (such as for shipping companies like UPS that try to minimize left turns for efficiency and safety reasons).

      A GPS, on the other hand, is fixed to your vehicle so will always measure its average distance traveled (rather than how far one side of a vehicle travels vs another, something nobody ever cares about).

    145. Re:Carmakers lie by ray-auch · · Score: 1

      > Because there are no cars on this planet that can go 650 miles at 75mph without stopping for gas.

      Rubbish.

      On regular urban commuting I get 55mpg (imperial) out of a car with approx 12 gallon (55L) tank - ie. range around 650. However, that is short commute into a city. Throw in some long trips and I often get 60+ off a tank - a range of 730 miles, and that is still including some short commutes on the tank. On those long trips I was typically cruising at around 80mph where the road is clear.

      If I have more time on a long trip and am careful to keep it 65-70mph, the car will do 65-70mpg (about 10% or so better, as you surmised) - giving a range of well over 800 miles.

      Now, this is a ten year old car (rated 55 combined mpg I think). It isn't the most economical car I've driven either - years ago I drove a citroen AX which was rated combined mpg of 65+ (and achieved it in real life). That would go much further (although I can't recall how big the tank was). However, it was small and not very pleasant at 80 mph.

      New cars are better, take say VW Golf Bluemotion or Ford Fiesta Econetic, both rated around 75 combined mpg. If they come as close in the real world as my current drive does to it's test numbers, then the range must be around 900 miles at 70-80mph. Plenty of margin over your 650.

      [ Of course you may be working on the assumption that "this planet" == "the USA" - in which case your conclusion might be correct, but only because your assumption is garbage... ]

      and you cant find a 650 mile stretch of road that has no cars or delays in it.

    146. Re:Carmakers lie by flibbajobber · · Score: 1

      Uh, doppler shift? Is that not how radar guns work?

    147. Re:Carmakers lie by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      European cars that make sense dont count. we are talking craptastic American cars that care poorly designed and have 80% more horsepower that is useless.

      Yes all american cars are CRAP. That goes for all forign cars sold in america as well. You yanks fuck them up good.

      only in america does a smart FourTwo get less than 50mpg.

    148. Re:Carmakers lie by cvtan · · Score: 1

      Speedo in our Prius agrees exactly with side-of-road radar displays. GPS indicated speed is exactly what the speedo shows. There is no 5% error as far as I can tell. GPS is exactly right! "Horribly inaccurate" is just wrong.

      --
      Sorry, but gray text on gray background is making my eyes bleed.
    149. Re:Carmakers lie by cvtan · · Score: 1

      I second the motion that BMW speedo indication is intentional. Owner for 40 years so I know. All BMW speedos read high. Even my MINI reads high by 2mph at 60. Prius is exactly right though.

      --
      Sorry, but gray text on gray background is making my eyes bleed.
    150. Re:Carmakers lie by silentcoder · · Score: 1

      See another post of mine - something like this is already employed on some cars - it relies on measuring the axel rotations rather than the wheel, which is at least constant - but still puts you out by any variations in the size of the real wheel. If there is a way to measure velocity from inside the car, it's using something we've never thought off and the core problem is this: velocity is a relative measurement (at least - if you're not riding a lightbeam) - it's your velocity relative to something else we're measuring. Technically, we're all - right now, moving at about 12000km/24 hours, but because everything nearby is moving at the same speed in the same direction, it's invisible to us.

      In the case of the car, it's the velocity relative to the road and surrounding environment we're interested in - and I suspect it's even theoretically impossible to measure that from INSIDE the moving vehicle (I haven't done the maths or worked out this kind of physics in about a decade though so I may be wrong, if so - I would love to be corrected).

      Ironically, though GPS's are really inaccurate - this is because they weren't designed for the job, one that was, could probably be much MORE acurate -because it measures speed relative to a fixed point of reference (the satelites).

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
    151. Re:Carmakers lie by gandhi_2 · · Score: 1

      This is an old thread by now, but I did a bit of searching.

      I see several people make the same claim as you, that GPSR's can calc instantaneous speeds from doppler shifts.

      So I emailed Garmin to ask about the ETrex series, they emailed back (actually surprisingly),

      Thank you for contacting Garmin International. I'd be happy to help you with your Legend.

      The unit determines speed by using the track log data and calculating time/distance between those points.

      Please let me know if there's anything else I can assist you with.

      I found a thread where iPhone devs were talking about it....turns out they have to use position changes too: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=526261

      And here's some code for it in c++: http://www.geoframeworks.com/articles/WritingApps1_6.aspx

      So we are both right. ):

    152. Re:Carmakers lie by Penguinoflight · · Score: 1

      Because that approach works so well for those who buy motorcycles.

      --
      "And we have seen and do testify that the Father sent the Son to be the Savior of the World"
      1 John 4:14
    153. Re:Carmakers lie by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      Most motorcyclists who come off second-best in an altercation with a car do so because the car driver is just not paying attention. It could be argued that cars, while now "safer" in the event of a collision, have become so damned easy to drive that their owners might as well be in a taxi for all the headspace they are using for the task at hand. Hence all the bimbos we see yapping away on the phone or using the driving mirror to apply make-up.

      I've driven many ancient cars with dodgy brakes where I've had to double-declutch through every gear, but the simple aspect of having to keep the brain engaged has been enough to avoid many accidents.

    154. Re:Carmakers lie by Nicolay77 · · Score: 1

      I think that axel rotations are not the same as surface displacement even if both are measured by an optical sensor. I suspect that measuring the displacement of the road underneath the car requires a very advanced optical sensor, and that's the reason it's not done yet.

      Now... measuring the speed from inside the car is theoretically impossible? Please provide a proof then.

      In fact I will quote you: velocity is a relative measurement. We measure the speed of one object with respect to another.

      So far the fixed object has been the earth surface. I can not see any physical reason that says that the car can't be the fixed object measuring the earth surface speed with respect to it. If you can have a sensor on one object, you can have a sensor on the other. Only the nature of the sensor would change.

      --
      We are Turing O-Machines. The Oracle is out there.
    155. Re:Carmakers lie by RockDoctor · · Score: 1

      I never actually compared the long distance odometer readings to actual distance traveled

      That seems like such a tremendously difficult experiment to carry out. Have you consulted with the massed brains of CERN, SSC and SuperKamiokande to try to work out the experimental details, or do you think that it's within the scope of reader of a website that advertises itself as "News for Nerds" to try something nerdish, such as ... (shock, horror!) an experiment. OK, I'll take "I don't have any appropriate long distance trips planned, where the long distance will reduce the effects of detours, lane changes, etc to negligible." as a valid excuse.

      to figure out if the speedometer needle is just aimed a few degrees too far to the right, or if the calibration of the axle rotation to distance traveled is just slightly off.

      I don't know what rules your country has, but in Britain an odometer (and therefore the speedometer which is it's differential w.r.t. time) isn't considered miscalibrated until it's out by more than 10% either way. Other errors to consider would be over/ under inflation of tyres (when measured at their running temperature, not when static ; i.e. you'd need to change the amount of air in the tyres as the warm up/ cool down), the depth of the tread on the tyre (the legal minimum is 2mm, but a new tyre can easily have a tread depth of 8 or 9mm (I didn't measure the new ones I brought a month or so ago, but it was approaching 10mm). The tread variation is a good 3% variation by itself.

      Oh, hang on - odds-on you're in a country where automatics are common? Don't they slip the clutch a lot, which would add it's own inaccuracies?

      --
      Birds are not dinosaur descendants;birds are dinosaurs, for all useful meanings of "birds", "are" and "dinosaurs"
    156. Re:Carmakers lie by simplexion · · Score: 1

      Why the hell wasn't his car in Park or his Handbrake on while filling up with gas? Frikken idiot.

  2. PEBAAC by jaavaaguru · · Score: 5, Funny

    Problem exists between accelerator and chair?

    1. Re:PEBAAC by wing03 · · Score: 5, Insightful

      I'd think not. It's called "drive by wire" technology. I bought an '09 Civic and the thing has a sensor attached to the gas pedal instead of the traditional wire directly to a butterfly valve. I read somewhere that if the PCM didn't think things were right, there's a failsafe "limp home" mode that trips the throttle plate to some slightly higher than idle position and disconnects the pedal and any other controls. One of the sales guys who I met in the process of buying this car insisted that the computer controlled throttle makes it more responsive and safer. Throttle by wire IMO, is fucking with the KISS rule.

    2. Re:PEBAAC by JWSmythe · · Score: 4, Insightful

          I have a friend with a car that has a drive by wire throttle, to facilitate the traction control. That car is now having a problem when accelerating. It's only at particular throttle positions, but it acts funny. My car with a good ol' fashion cable between the pedal and throttle body is very very reliable. If the cable goes, I can replace it fairly cheap. It's much more expensive to replace the more exotic parts.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    3. Re:PEBAAC by pandaman9000 · · Score: 5, Informative

      Throttle by wire has been proven to be extremely responsive. More importantly, it is part of a closed-loop operation, whereby the ECU can properly evaluate requested levels versus actual in pretty much everything. If the fuel line is pinched, for example, flooring it would cause devastating detonation, EXCEPT in "by wire". Once the fuel present was mismatched to the air, the ECU would force the throttle to close somewhat, regardless of pedal position. The exception is in many cases of a wide open throttle request, when some output levels like fuel overrich are ignored, and the ECU uses an internal map of what "should be going in and out, given the max power request.

      It is exceedingly easy to test the Throttle Positioning Sensor in modern vehicles. In fact, your ECU probably tests idle throttle position every time you turn the key on for a while without staring the engine. The ECU will also log 'implausible signal' for TPS that get an out of range reading, or inconsistent reading throughout the range.

      Note: This information was gathered while researching diagnosing my personal car, a B5 Audi S4. It is a summary, not the automotive gospel.

      This sounds like people getting paid for being stupid. I do not approve, but who am I, eh?

    4. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Cruise control problem? I once drove a Chevy Caprice Classic with a serious cruise control malfunction. Engage cruise at 35mph or higher, gas pedal went all the way to the floor and stayed there until the brake pedal was pressed or the cruise control was turned off. Now granted, a Caprice Classic is not a Toyota, but IMHO it's still worth looking at cruise control as a possible factor in the reported acceleration surge problems.

    5. Re:PEBAAC by DieByWire · · Score: 1, Insightful

      ...It's called "drive by wire" ...

      and it's nicknamed 'die-by-wire'.

      --
      Never shake hands with a man you meet in a fertility clinic.
    6. Re:PEBAAC by TheRealMindChild · · Score: 1

      I'm betting $50 you are an (Army/Navy/RandomUSArmedForces) mechanic. Any takers?

      --

      "When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back!" -- Cave Johnson
    7. Re:PEBAAC by BoneFlower · · Score: 1

      Responsive when it is designed and implemented correctly.

      Mechanical and hydraulic systems are much better understood. While drive by wire certainly has potential advantages, and if done well reliability and durability can be included, it is a more complicated and less mature technology. It is certainly possible for a drive by wire system to be flat out superior to mechanical and hydraulic systems, but if you want a safe bet that it will all work as designed, regardless of manufacturer, go with the traditional systems.

    8. Re:PEBAAC by Warhawke · · Score: 1

      Clearly there's a screw loose behind the steering wheel.

    9. Re:PEBAAC by bongey · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Throttle by wire IMO, is fucking with the KISS rule.

      To propose that somehow mechanical cables are safer because they are simpler is severely flawed.
      Have you every seen how easy it is to get a mechanical throttle to get stuck? Also in a wreck the cable the throttle can become pinched, stuck at full throttle not fun. Look at the back of street/strip drag car they have emergency kill switch on the back bumper for this reason, along with wanting to kill the fuel pump.
      A mechanical throttle lacks any safety controls. A simple cable is in fact simple, but it is a stupid cable.
      Twice I have seen a mechanical fail.
      90s Camaro SS , guy had dropped about 10k in the motor only to have the throttle get stuck, redline, broken valves.
      My Saturn has become stuck more than once when it is cold, never caused an accident.

      Just because you drive car,bought a car, doesn't give you divine insight on how a car works, and somehow your experience brings insight to the conversation.Spend a little time working on/ modifying a car and you will quickly discover; mechanical cables suck ass to put in and are more prone to failure!

    10. Re:PEBAAC by joe_frisch · · Score: 1

      Are the brakes controlled electronically? In any car I know of, the brakes can stop the car even at full throttle. Of course its possible for the anti-skid system to disable the brakes, but I would hope that is a completely separate system...

    11. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      we discovered a loose nut between the steering wheel and the seat, sir

    12. Re:PEBAAC by Jarjarthejedi · · Score: 5, Insightful

      "Mechanical and hydraulic systems are much better understood."

      Computer aren't exactly a new-fangled technology, and most cars built after the 70's or so have had some form of by-wire throttle control (I'm speaking, of course, of electronically controlled anti-lock brake systems which, while not fully by-wire, include a by-wire system alongside the mechanical one). I always find it amazing how people can talk about computer controlled systems are not being 'not well understood' in this day and age. Not well programmed, perhaps (though the analog there would be poorly fabricated parts, a problem that was dealt with much as poorly coded systems are being dealt with now-a-days), but not well understood? Really?

      This isn't a new technology, it's been around for a while in one form or another. Sure it's less mature than conventional hydraulic, but hydraulic are much less mature than banging two sticks together, doesn't make the sticks better than hydraulic. I think my signature sums it up quite nicely, just because drive-by-wire is something relatively new (50yrs of use) and hydraulic something relatively old doesn't make one better or worse than the other, that depends on how they function. If you want to compare the two systems that way be my guest, but just stating that drive-by-wire is worse because it's newer is hogwash.

      --
      There are two kinds of fool One says 'This is old therefore good' Another says 'This is new therefore better'- Dean Ing
    13. Re:PEBAAC by XDirtypunkX · · Score: 1

      I believe in the automotive industry it's actually referred to as a loose nut between the steering wheel and the seat.

    14. Re:PEBAAC by afidel · · Score: 1

      ABS wasn't even an option on most cards until the mid 90's and many of the systems available before ~2000 were hydraulic (my dad brought me one from a customer who was having rusting issues with the inner valve in a system they made for GM).

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    15. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Duh. Classical worn out potentiometer. This problem reoccurs on many models and makes. Early Volvo S80s were famous for that.

    16. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Considering Aircraft have been using this technology for a very, VERY long time, and that the automobile industry is using a version that's even safer than those originally in aircraft, it's safe to say that "Drive by wire" is far more stable than what you're assuming.

    17. Re:PEBAAC by jamesh · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Never had your accelerator cable become stuck then? I think that if you do the numbers you'll find that a fully mechanical system has a far higher chance of an unsafe failure mode (eg butterfly valve stuck open) than the 'fly by wire' systems.

    18. Re:PEBAAC by kestasjk · · Score: 1

      I'd think not.

      So ... why not exactly? You didn't say, just gave an anecdote about extra failsafes in the new system and revealed a prejudice towards simplicity (in a modern automobile, one of the pinnacles of engineering).

      --
      // MD_Update(&m,buf,j);
    19. Re:PEBAAC by kestasjk · · Score: 1

      Hush! We here in Slashdot don't like these damned wires and chips in our good old autos gosh dernit! This tech site likes things pneumatic and analogue thank you very much.

      Did you know in South Korea they believe in "Fan Death" , caused by electric fans being left on overnight? There is no documented evidence leading to this, no-one knows where it comes from, only South Korea seems to be aware of it let alone believe it, yet fan companies have to report that their fans have been tested and absolutely will not cause "Fan Death", and everyone takes it seriously.
      The point of all this is people can build up irrational fears of what they don't understand.
      --
      - Captain Obvious

      --
      // MD_Update(&m,buf,j);
    20. Re:PEBAAC by fractoid · · Score: 4, Insightful

      If the cable goes, I can replace it fairly cheap. It's much more expensive to replace the more exotic parts.

      Also, if the cable gets wet, you have a wet cable. If the leads to the potentiometer have cracked insulation and get shorted out by dirty water or contact with metal, you have a hard open throttle. I know which I'd rather have.

      This is why drive-by-wire stuff is scary. Power assist is fine, but if your hydraulic power steering loses pressure you can still steer the car (even if the steering is much heavier). Vacuum-assisted braking has enough storage to last 2-3 brake pedal pushes, and after that the brakes still function even if they too are much heavier. Antilock braking is scary enough even though it's comparatively failsafe. Handing over complete control of any further automotive function to a computer is goddamn terrifying.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    21. Re:PEBAAC by __david__ · · Score: 5, Interesting

      It is exceedingly easy to test the Throttle Positioning Sensor in modern vehicles. In fact, your ECU probably tests idle throttle position every time you turn the key on for a while without staring the engine. The ECU will also log 'implausible signal' for TPS that get an out of range reading, or inconsistent reading throughout the range.

      You are basically correct. I have first hand hacking experience with the drive by wire throttle because my Grand Challenge team automated a Toyota Prius for the last Grand Challenge. There are 2 completely independent signals that go from 2 independent sensors on the pedal to the computer throttle component. The signals have to move in lock step with each other or the computer will detect a fault. If a fault is detected the throttle goes completely off and the car has to be turned off and turned back on to recover.

      So for the throttle to stick down both pedal sensors have to fail in the same way at the same time, which seems highly unlikely to me. Or there could be a bug in the computer control section, bus as a software engineer I can assure you that that would be impossible. ;-)

    22. Re:PEBAAC by drtsystems · · Score: 1

      One day as I was riding with my friend in his ford explorer, he all of the sudden starts stabbing his foot on the accelerator in a panic as we come to a stop sign. I of course react WTF? He tells me that the throttle gets stuck periodically and he has to push the gas pedal to unstick it. +1 for drive by wire in my book, where there is no physical throttle cable to get stuck.

    23. Re:PEBAAC by rakslice · · Score: 0, Flamebait

      "Also, if the cable gets wet, you have a wet cable."

      Gee, really? What were you really trying to say?

    24. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      As opposed to 'getting strung up' or something if the throttle cable catches with the throttle open.

      Sure, "that wouldn't happen under normal conditions", if that's your excuse then it wouldn't happen "normally" by wire either.

    25. Re:PEBAAC by fractoid · · Score: 1

      That if the cable gets wet, it has little effect on the car or its behaviour. On the other hand, otherwise-insignificant physical faults can be hugely amplified, even without significant mechanical failure occuring, if they cause electrical faults.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    26. Re:PEBAAC by drdoot · · Score: 1

      Personally KISS does nothing for me and I prefer the SEX rule. Sensors Easilly Xcellerate

    27. Re:PEBAAC by AstrumPreliator · · Score: 1

      That explains why planes are falling out of the sky left and right.

    28. Re:PEBAAC by SeaFox · · Score: 2

      Not to mention the transmission lever. Accelerating out of control? Put her in neutral. Keeps the power steering and brakes active, unlike just turning off the ignition, another solution to a stuck throttle.

    29. Re:PEBAAC by Dan541 · · Score: 1

      Salemen are full of shit. It's NEVER safer to add an extra point of failure no matter what the application.

      --
      An SQL query goes to a bar, walks up to a table and asks, "Mind if I join you?"
    30. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yeah, what the fuk are they thinking? Progess, yeah right! That's why I only fly in planes with ye ol' mechanical flight control systems. If I don't see elevator and rudder cables, then I dont fly. No siree bob.

    31. Re:PEBAAC by jez9999 · · Score: 1

      If a fault is detected the throttle goes completely off and the car has to be turned off and turned back on to recover.

      That sounds pretty dangerous if you're on a motorway (highway).

    32. Re:PEBAAC by richard.cs · · Score: 1

      A friend of mine had the return spring on a mechanical throttle break. It happened as he was going around a corner and you have no idea how scary it is to have a tractor up on two wheels. Not really arguing for or against electronic throttles here but mechanical systems can have problems too.

    33. Re:PEBAAC by AHuxley · · Score: 1

      Design problems with a cargo door of the DC-10 aircraft were recognized but not adequately fixed.
      After a crash in a forest outside of Paris killed all 349 passengers the door was fixed.
      This is called “tombstone technology” when there are enough tombstones the technology gets fixed.
      Never ascribe to safety that which can adequately be explained by lawsuits.

      --
      Domestic spying is now "Benign Information Gathering"
    34. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If or not the throttle is broken makes no difference. Try using trottle and break at the same time and tell me who wins. Its sad what happened to some of these people but its clear that they did not press the break at all. Just goto liveleak.com for 10 minutes and you will see 50 videos of people doing this same thing and slamming to shops and parked cars.

    35. Re:PEBAAC by Rick17JJ · · Score: 1

      In my neighborhood, many of the cars and trucks have had reoccurring problems with pack rats building nests in the engine compartment and chewing on wires. A "drive by wire system" sounds like it would just be more wires for the pack rats to chew on.

      I am not suggesting that pack rats have anything to do with Toyota's sudden acceleration problem. But, in general, I would prefer less wires for the pack rats to chew on. Personally, I would trust a "drive by wire" car or truck, which had pack rats living under the hood. I would also prefer that important wires be surrounded by a thick plastic or steel rat resistant shield, or outer layer.

      On two occasions, I have discovered a large nest of sticks, dry oak leaves and cactus thorns under my pickup truck's air cleaner. I smelled the problem when the dry oak leaves started to smolder against the hot exhaust manifold, while driving. What was unusual, was that my old pickup truck did not actually experience the wiring problems which some of my neighbors have had. I have sometimes heard the claim that the wiring on certain brands of cars tastes better to the pack rats.

      I also once had problems with pack rats building a nest inside the air filter on a diesel powered backhoe. It made the engine smoke badly until the nest was cleaned out. Fortunately, that was on an old diesel engine with a purely mechanical fuel injection and no electrical ignition system. Unlike newer vehicles, the pack rats could not do much to that decades old backhoe.

    36. Re:PEBAAC by petermgreen · · Score: 1

      Well the same would happen if your throttle cable broke on a conventional system or your engine cut out for any other reason.

      Afaict usually cars have enough momentum in such situations to steer them off to the hard shoulder.

      Afaict throttle stuck on is in the vast majority of situations far more dangerous than throttle stuck off so it makes sense to fail to throttle stuck off.

      --
      note: i'm known as plugwash most places but i screwd up registering that here somehow in the past and now can't register
    37. Re:PEBAAC by Toonol · · Score: 1

      Gee, really? What were you really trying to say?

      Exactly that, obviously.

    38. Re:PEBAAC by Toonol · · Score: 2, Insightful

      People can also build up rational fears of what they do understand. There's a lot of that on slashdot, too. Overcomplicated overengineering is something much of slashdot has experience with.

    39. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This is BS. If you have fuel line pinched, fuel pressure in line will drop and engine will stop. This effectively shuts down fuel pump. Now no matter how hard you press accelerator, no fuel pump operating = no fuel in line = no explosion.

      Yes, i did that on real running car.

    40. Re:PEBAAC by Froggie · · Score: 1

      Yes, but try doing a Failure Mode Effects Analysis on a computer program. For a hardware system, you can enumerate things like 'what if these wires short?' For a computer, you have an infinite variation on 'what if this function produces *this specific* sort of nonsense?'

    41. Re:PEBAAC by darthflo · · Score: 1

      That sounds pretty dangerous if you're on a motorway

      Huh? If you're cruising at some useful speed (possibly on the leftmost lane), hit the clutch and you'll still have a few hundred yards to get over onto the emergency lane. Add hazard lights and most other drivers will even free the room you require. Driving a girl car^w^w automatic? Go to "N" and move to the emergency lane.

      If you're not doing the 50 mph or so required to pull this off, it's even easier: Turn on your hazard lights, press down your clutch and roll to a gentle stop. Since you're not even using your brakes, anybody behind you can slow down more by braking lightly. It'll cause some congestion but accidents aren't likely.

      Also, in both cases: Turning your motor off and on again should not take more than a few seconds. If it's just a temporary sensor fail, it ought to get the engine going again before even coming to a halt (hazard lights first, though!).

    42. Re:PEBAAC by PhilHibbs · · Score: 1

      This isn't a new technology, it's been around for a while in one form or another. Sure it's less mature than conventional hydraulic, but hydraulic are much less mature than banging two sticks together, doesn't make the sticks better than hydraulic.

      That's a ridiculous comparison. Computer systems are inherently difficult to understand, they don't work the same way that the physical world that we have an instinctive understanding of works. Physics has limits, computers don't. There's no way that the forces involved in a physical cable-and-hydraulic system can be infinite, but a computer can easily go into an infinite loop or accidentally end up trying to divide by zero.

      Computers *are* still a new technology, and they probably will be in engineering terms for the rest of my life-time.

    43. Re:PEBAAC by jez9999 · · Score: 1

      Huh? If you're cruising at some useful speed (possibly on the leftmost lane), hit the clutch and you'll still have a few hundred yards to get over onto the emergency lane. Add hazard lights and most other drivers will even free the room you require.

      Going at 70 (the speed limit over here) in the right lane (the left lane over here ;-) and taking my foot off the throttle would result in my slowing down pretty quickly... I know if someone did that in front of me at that speed I don't think I'd crash into them, but would be rather taken aback and have to have quick reflexes to slow down, assuming they couldn't pull out of that land because of heavy traffic. I can imagine a worse driver hitting the back of them.

      Also, in both cases: Turning your motor off and on again should not take more than a few seconds.

      That's one of the things I've always been taught explicitly NOT to do whilst driving. :-) You lose power steering, the brakes will quickly become less effective, and expecting people to turn their car off and on again with very little notice in the middle of driving (a sudden loss of throttle because of this problem they've probably never even heard of) seems like a bizarre suggestion to me.

    44. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Also, if the cable gets wet, you have a wet cable.

      [Citation needed]

    45. Re:PEBAAC by zmollusc · · Score: 1

      The important point for me is that you can usually bodge a mechanical system together until you make a proper repair, I bet your friend soon found another spring to use, or a rubber band or just drove carefully and lifted the pedal back up with his toe.

      --
      They whose government reduces their essential liberties for temporary security, receive neither liberty nor security.
    46. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Just about any vehicle with a catalytic converter is closed loop, pinch the fuel line and floor the throttle and the mixture runs lean, which in any properly designed system will immediately raise error flags and force the vehicle into limp home mode. The earliest system that I worked on where this was the default behaviour was over two decades ago.

    47. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

      Obviously, I don't know the cause (if any) of these problems, but this sounds like a prime example of a RACE CONDITION ;-)

    48. Re:PEBAAC by richard.cs · · Score: 1

      It was a simple repair to make, but had he been turning more sharply or the tractor had something more powerful than a 30 hp ford ten engine it would have rolled and he wouldn't have been there to make the repair. Easier to fix, but not any less dangerous (the spring that broke was at the carburettor end of the cable and lifting the pedal would only make the cable flex).

    49. Re:PEBAAC by icebrain · · Score: 1

      Don't get on an airliner, then. Quite a number of them are fully computerized (flight controls, engines, brakes, wheel steering, etc) with no mechanical backup.

      --
      The meek may inherit the earth, but the strong shall take the stars.
    50. Re:PEBAAC by confused+one · · Score: 1

      if the behavior changed or is not normal, then either the sensor of the control motor has a bad spot. get it fixed.

    51. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      [...] who am I, eh?

      Canadian ?

    52. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Don't you mean preignition rather than detonation? Detonation is damaging yes but it is hardly devastating. A car could run for years whilst suffering from fairly bad detonation. Not to healthily I might add but it would.

      Preignition on the other hand is absolutely deadly to an engine. 3 or 4 revolutions whilst preigniting WILL destroy an engine. And remember that and engine is revving at more than 800RPM even on tickover (idling to you Americans)

      With love,
      Anonymous coward.

      ps.
      Throttle by wire isn't just more responsive, it's necessary for modern engines to be as efficient as they currently are small European straight 4's or whacking great American V12's. It allows far more precise control of the fuel injection systems so engines can be run on much finer margins fuel wise.

    53. Re:PEBAAC by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      If the fuel line is pinched, for example, flooring it would cause devastating detonation, EXCEPT in "by wire".

      WRONGO. Two technologies exist to prevent this, one is a knock sensor (before it becomes devastating, it is stopped) and the other is tip-in retard.

      It is exceedingly easy to test the Throttle Positioning Sensor in modern vehicles.

      And yet, a bad TPS could actually cause a similar problem in a car without throttle by wire. If there is a bad spot on the TPS, then it can see the throttle as being in a different location than it actually is. Mostly, of course, this just results in stalling, which causes different kinds of accidents. It almost got me in an accident in my '93 Impreza. They want over two hundred bucks for that fucking potentiometer...

      In fact, your ECU probably tests idle throttle position every time you turn the key on for a while without staring the engine.

      No, it doesn't. All it can do in that situation is to test if it is present, which it does by checking for the idle switch (when present) and checking TPS voltage to see if it looks like the position might actually be at idle. OBD-II cars constantly check the TPS, but they can't [usually] detect problems that are not catastrophic. By 'constantly' that means they also sanity check whenever you engage WOT, because most cars also have a WOT switch.

      The ECU will also log 'implausible signal' for TPS that get an out of range reading, or inconsistent reading throughout the range.

      On a vehicle with drive by wire, sure. That's because the pedal has one pot on it, and the TPS is either attached to a servo-driven butterfly, or it's part of the servo feedback itself. On other vehicles, this code is may not be set even if the TPS is obviously bad, because it's non-trivial to find out if it's causing a problem. Anything other than jitter or a big obvious bad spot will probably escape detection.

      The simple truth is that in a drive by wire scenario, you are not controlling the engine. Just another reason why having a reciprocating engine attached mechanically to your wheels is an idea whose time has long since passed. Where the fuck are all the plug-in series hybrids?

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    54. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A TPS (throttle position sensor), even of the dual track variety, is dirt cheap to replace.

      I can imagine the TPS being cheaper than the steel wire of old in some cases!

    55. Re:PEBAAC by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      (I'm speaking, of course, of electronically controlled anti-lock brake systems which, while not fully by-wire, include a by-wire system alongside the mechanical one).

      Only in cars with traction/yaw control is the ABS necessarily connected to ANYTHING ELSE. In older vehicles like my 1992 Ford F250, which has rear-only ABS, it is connected to precisely jack shit except the brake lines and the sensors integrated into the axle. When the brakes are applied and the wheels are locking up the pump unlocks 'em, that is all. There is ZERO relation to the throttle. The same is true in my 1993 Subaru Impreza, except it has four-channel ABS. Understanding ABS? YOU FAIL IT!

      If you want to compare the two systems that way be my guest, but just stating that drive-by-wire is worse because it's newer is hogwash.

      Throttle by wire provides small efficiency improvements for a significant increase in complexity. Like everyone else, I'm tired of waiting for battery technology to come along that allows EVs to murder liquid-fuel vehicles. I'm sick of replacing injection pumps etc.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    56. Re:PEBAAC by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      So for the throttle to stick down both pedal sensors have to fail in the same way at the same time,

      That might be true in an analog system where fuel delivery was directly controlled by the pedal sensors, but in this case there are not only two sensors but software involved. The software has to also decide to do the right thing, which is a danger even in pure-EVs. You're assuming that something intelligent is being done with those sensor inputs, and we all know the problem with making assumptions.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    57. Re:PEBAAC by Jesus_666 · · Score: 1

      Given taht the motor doesn't produce any forward acceleration anymore, most people would probably try to restart it after they rolled to a halt due to exactly that.

      --
      USE HOT GRITS WITH STATUE OF NATALIE PORTMAN (NAKED AND PETRIFIED)
    58. Re:PEBAAC by datapharmer · · Score: 1

      wow. bad idea. ever had an engine explode on you? do that and it most likely will. If it won't stop, turn it off. There have been plenty of cars over time with no power steering - you can still steer, it is just a little harder (a good thing at a high rate of speed) and you can always pull the emergency brake - that is why it is there!

      --
      Get a web developer
    59. Re:PEBAAC by gabebear · · Score: 1

      It's NEVER safer to add an extra point of failure no matter what the application.

      Acceleration is a serial network... I have no idea what the real numbers are, but if the dangerous failure rates were:

      • Mechanical pedal = 10hr MTBF
      • Accelerator wire = 5hr MTBF
      • Butterfly valve = 10hr MTBF

      and

      • Electronic pedal = 10hr MTBF
      • Software = 20hr MTBF
      • Electronic hardware = 20hr MTBF
      • Electronic valve = 20hr MTBF

      Which would give manual acceleration a 1.5hr MTBF, and electronic acceleration a 4hr MTBF. Adding failure points into a system can make it much more reliable if they are less likely to happen.

    60. Re:PEBAAC by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          I actually had a problem with my cable. My car has a crappy plastic retainer at the throttle body end, which cracked. It was a weekend, after the dealerships had closed. I went to another parts store, and they couldn't get a replacement cable. I used plastic cable ties to hold it in place where it belonged. It's been like that for 3 months, without fail. :)

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    61. Re:PEBAAC by genw3st · · Score: 1

      My sentiment exactly!

    62. Re:PEBAAC by datapharmer · · Score: 1

      Yep, I can second bongey's remarks about the mechanical cables. I was driving a 2000 Taurus around 2001 or 2002 and the throttle cable got stuck on me. I had to turn it off and park it in a ditch on the side of the road or I would have slammed into the guy in front of me. Ford had a recall for this problem on the Focus and several other models, but never on the Taurus. Despite no recall, I watched the dealer replace all the components from the cabling to the throttle body and there was not even so much as a discussion about being charged for the work. Apparently Ford shipped out a bunch of vehicles where the cable was too long and not properly clipped at one end, so it would eventually fray and catch on one of the rubber seals that are there to prevent rust, leaving the throttle wide open if you punched the accelerator. It appears that NHTSA missed a few models for the recall campaign (00V302000), and Ford apparently had no interest in furthering the recall unless someone reported a problem.

      --
      Get a web developer
    63. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You're full of shit. If your car is fuel injected they have had all kinds of things (since the early 80s) to stop it leaning out in bad fueling conditions.
      If throttle by wire was more responsive, it would be widely used in racing. Not one F1 team in the current season is using only dbw so again you're wrong,

    64. Re:PEBAAC by digitalaudiorock · · Score: 1

      Throttle by wire IMO, is fucking with the KISS rule.

      To propose that somehow mechanical cables are safer because they are simpler is severely flawed. Have you every seen how easy it is to get a mechanical throttle to get stuck? Also in a wreck the cable the throttle can become pinched, stuck at full throttle not fun.

      Back in the mid-70s on a trip I took with a friend to Florida, he got in a front end collision. We only had enough money at the time to get the car more or less jury rigged enough to get by. What we didn't realize at the time was that one or more engine mounts were broken just enough to let the engine shift position occasionally when you hit a bump. That's right...the engine would move a little but the throttle cable wouldn't. Try taking an off ramp with a big block V8 (an old Ford LTD) at full throttle...I did...nice way to test those breaks.

    65. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      With this logic, I can't see how your DNA branch ever stopped walking as transportation. Walking is more reliable than riding a horse or biking. Also, walking is less expensive.

      I bet you suck at giving Christmas gifts. :D

    66. Re:PEBAAC by maxume · · Score: 3, Insightful

      If I were programming/designing the drive by wire system you describe (don't worry, I'm not), I'm pretty sure that I would read a shorted potentiometer as closed and only use about 1/3 of the range of the thing (so it would be apparent if it failed in the other direction).

      Going a little further, I would only use about 1/3 of the range of it, in the middle, so a short would be an obvious failure condition (as would the highest resistance of the potentiometer).

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    67. Re:PEBAAC by maxume · · Score: 1

      Did you buy a service manual and brain him with it? (he is obviously too cheap to take it to a mechanic...)

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    68. Re:PEBAAC by Urza9814 · · Score: 1

      The problem, IMO, is likely that drive-by-wire systems have too much unnecessary complication. Now, I know absolutely nothing about cars, so I could be completely wrong here, but based on how these things happen in other industries, I would imagine that general-purpose microcontrollers are far cheaper than building their own, so that's what they're using, and they're doing everything in software. That's fine in theory, but when you throw in general purpose hardware like that, you introduce a huge number of unnecessary systems that have the potential to interfere with the control system. Sure, nothing _should_ go wrong....but that just reminds me of a story in The Jargon File ("A story about 'Magic'") http://www.catb.org/~esr/jargon/html/magic-story.html

    69. Re:PEBAAC by Phat_Tony · · Score: 1

      That's absolutely right though, there have been reports of "unintended acceleration" in cars as long as there have been cars, and the problem is caused by a person accidentally pressing the gas when intending to press the brake, and then instead of recognizing the error, flooring the car by pressing what they still believe to be the brake to the floor to counter the "unintended acceleration" they are experiencing.

      A friend of mine suffered a serious brain injury when an old lady plowed into a crowd of students at a bus stop at high velocity. She claimed she was a victim of a spontaneous acceleration malfunction in the car, but the people on the scene who helped her out of her car said her foot was still flooring the gas when they opened the door, well after she ran over everybody. The front end was off the ground from hitting a low wall, so the wheels were just spinning, the engine racing.

      So at the time, I did a lot of looking into "spontaneous" or "unintended" acceleration disorders, and here are some things I found:

      - Despite a lot of lawsuits and accident investigations, there were no instances of lawsuits over "unintended acceleration" problems where any mechanic, engineer, or other inspector could find any physical cause for such machine-actuated acceleration when examining the vehicles after the accidents.
      - While geography, weather, traffic conditions, etc. varied tremendously across different accident that were blamed on "unintended acceleration," there was a very strong correlation that the age of the drivers involved tended to be much higher than average.
      - Cases of "unintended acceleration" occur across all makes and all models, but there is a concentration among Buick, Lincoln, Cadillac, Audi - cars favored by older drivers.
      - In cars with "black box" crash-data recorders involved in "unintended acceleration" accidents, despite almost unanimous claims by the operators that the car accelerated despite them fully depressing the brake pedal, the black box did not record any push on the brake pedal at all- just flooring the accelerator.
      - In 1989 the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration investigated and released a report on unintended acceleration accidents, which found no evidence that any of them were due to anything other than operator error.

      Maybe there's some new engineering problem with Toyotas that actually causes this, and I wouldn't place any bets on how lawsuits will turn out. But I'd sure bet you've hit the nail on the head with your PEBAAC idea regarding the true cause. Now that it's in the news, there are bound to be a lot more cases reported.

      --
      Can anyone tell me how to set my sig on Slashdot?
    70. Re:PEBAAC by SHaFT7 · · Score: 1

      Runaway car? Are you kidding me? There's a thing called the key, (or the start/stop button). TURN THE CAR OFF. Coast to a stop. Wreck avoided.

    71. Re:PEBAAC by Chris+Mattern · · Score: 1

      Going at 70 (the speed limit over here) in the right lane (the left lane over here ;-) and taking my foot off the throttle would result in my slowing down pretty quickly... I know if someone did that in front of me at that speed I don't think I'd crash into them, but would be rather taken aback and have to have quick reflexes to slow down,

      If you would have trouble with the person in front of you taking his foot off the throttle, you are following WAY too damn close. God forbid there should be an emergency that actually required him to *brake*.

      I can imagine a worse driver hitting the back of them.

      I hate to be the one to break this to you, but you *are* the "worse driver".

    72. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      All of the recent Audis I've driven have been drive by wire, and one of it's features is that if you hit the brake while also pushing the accelerator, you would get no acceleration. This would obviously prevent unintended acceleration if a floor mat was holding the accelerator pedal down. I know this because on old trick for clearing the snow from a wheel (which creates several problems) is to drive for a short period with the brake and accelerator both depressed - that no longer works.

    73. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yeah, mechanical links aren't bullet proof at all. The clutch cables get snapped all the time, and I've had a "sudden acceleration" experience with an '86 Scorpio. My dad was driving it, and when at one point it was time to slow down, the car just continued to plow straignt ahead.

      After a few attempts to slow down or stop he just killed the engine, as we thought it would be better than letting it redline in neutral. Thankfully this was on a highway so some excessive speed wasn't a big problem, and we could just coast to a stop even if power steering/brakes went out. Turned out that the cruise control cable was repaired by an idiot previous owner, and the connection point had a bolt sticking out. It caught on some part of the engine, keeping the throttle at that position. Of course this is mainly the faut of the PO, and the spring in most cases will usually position the throttle to idle should the cable snap, but there are still many ways in which the system can fail.

      By the way, while it might be possible to stop a Prius, even the standard 4-wheel disk brakes had trouble overcoming the 2.8 V6, so they slowed it down from highway speeds a good deal, but didn't stop the car. This makes me doubt that even somewhat better brakes could stop a more powerfull modern V6, let alone the larger and more powerful engines. Maybe prevent a stationary car from taking off, but not stop a the car from high speeds. I'm basing this only on my experience with a 23 year old car so of course I might be wrong, but then that V6 had only about 150hp while modern ones are pushing 250. Meanwhile, the brakes on regular cars are still plain steel disks (possibly a bit larger ones on cars of this class), if not drums on the rear axle.

      -mobby_6kl (can't long on now)

    74. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      In addition, overriding a sensor is much easier with a throttle position sensor.

      In my '98 VW TDI, if you touch the brake, it completely ignores the throttle input. I could push the accelerator to the floor and it won't do anything if the brake pedal is pushed ANY slight bit.

    75. Re:PEBAAC by Chris+Mattern · · Score: 1

      we all know the problem with making assumptions.

      You make an ass of ump and tions!

    76. Re:PEBAAC by Chris+Mattern · · Score: 1

      Computer aren't exactly a new-fangled technology

      Mankind has thousands of years of experience with mechanics and hydraulics. Compared to that, computers aren't just a new-fangled technology; they're an infant technology.

    77. Re:PEBAAC by Chris+Mattern · · Score: 1

      The point of all this is people can build up irrational fears of what they don't understand.

      I understand computers very well, thank you. I earn my paycheck running them. It's *because* I understand computers that the idea of having one run my car's brakes makes me nervous. It's only the people who don't understand computers who believe, "The computer said it, so it must be true." Read the RISKS forum some time: http://catless.ncl.ac.uk/Risks.

    78. Re:PEBAAC by Chris+Mattern · · Score: 1

      Accelerating out of control? Put her in neutral.

      Try to ignore the ear-shattering whine as your engine tears itself to pieces. If you're lucky, it won't catch on fire.

    79. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Drive-by-wire has been in the aviation industry since the 50's. And every modern commercial jet uses Drive-by-wire, as well as every fighter plane in service. The idea is not flawed. If there is problem, it is because the manufacturer didn't fully consider the extra complexity and didn't put in the appropriate front end engineering. Drive-by-wire is becoming a buzzword and a selling point, it CAN reduce gas consumption and improve responsiveness. This said manufactures are think that if any implementation of a drive-by-wire system will make the car better in every way, WRONG. As a mechanical engineer I get "green ideas" and "future tech" shoved down my throat, and am expected to solve now 10's of times more complex problems with the same amount of time and effort.

      If there is anyone to blame, it is the people that blindly commit to things they are not willing to give the resources to produce reliably. Sad to say with the reduction of prototypes and shorter design time, the proving grounds is moving into our garages.

    80. Re:PEBAAC by MattSausage · · Score: 0

      Considering four people have possibly died due to the malfunction mentioned in the article, I would expect a loud whine and bang while in neutral would be a preferable result.

    81. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Every VW for the past decade or more (1996 with Diesel VWs) has had an electric accelerator.

      To date I've read more about "my car won't go (Bad pedal sensor)" vs "My car unexpectedly ran away (bad pedal sensor)"

      Dare I say THE GERMANS GOT IT RIGHT AND THE JAPS DID'T!!!!!! ???

    82. Re:PEBAAC by Big+Smirk · · Score: 1

      Drive by wire is necessary for things like traction control (or you could have an extra canister and all kinds of levers to disconnect the gasoline). I believe actual throttle position is also modified when the engines use some of the gas mileage techniques like cylinder deactivation. Then there is also cruise control. Having a single actuator on the throttle blade, vs. 3 or more solenoids does simplify things.

      Remember, diesel doesn't even have throttle blades.

      So, the computer is necessary for the engine to run - the computer must decide how much gas to squirt in and when. If it squirts the gas at the wrong time, or the wrong amount, it could literally destroy your engine (or clog the catalytic converter). So it does that all O.K. but its not to be trusted to monitor the gas pedal position?

      Again, as a I posted earlier. The brakes will over power the engine (and you always have neutral).

      --
      TODO: create/find/steal funny sig.
    83. Re:PEBAAC by couchslug · · Score: 1

      "hydraulic are much less mature than banging two sticks together, doesn't make the sticks better than hydraulic. "

      Using hydraulics when "two sticks" would do is still stupid.

      Example: there is no reason to have a hydraulic clutch on a car or light truck. The slave cylinder WILL eventually leak down and usually take the clutch with it. The cost of a hydraulic clutch is greater than the much more reliable cable. Disposal of toxic hydraulic fluid is another waste for those who care.

      As a mechanic I observe that auto engineers cram every possible "feature"/useless addition into designs (in my opinion, to impress management). A mechanically illiterate public will not be curious about such detail. We get overly complex designs that are punitively expensive to fix unless one has access to plenty of salvage parts.

      --
      "This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
    84. Re:PEBAAC by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      So how would you design a hybrid or electric car without drive by wire?

    85. Re:PEBAAC by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      I knew a guy with a VW golf that had it's throttle freeze open. It happened as he was climbing a hill. When he got to the crest he suddenly found that the car kept accelerating even though he took his foot off the gas.

    86. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      my last truck was a dodge Durango and that had a cable throttle with a bad throttle position sensor. It took years to figure out that was the problem.. at low throttle on level ground (low load), the transmission would start randomly shifting. the dealer never could figure it out. when it final really failed (the check engine light would finally stay on, I used a OBD II computer checker to figure out the problem. changed the part (less then $25) and then traded in the truck for a Toyota Tacoma with a Throttle by wire. If there is any erratic throttle or transmission problem, the first thing I'll be checking are the throttle position sensors. The only problem I have a throttle by wire is that when using cruse control, you can't tell where the throttle is at.. (say you get to the bottom of a hill and you want to give the throttle a little extra push before the car losses to much speed going up a hill (Dodge have a quicker response, GM/Ford/Toyota are all slow responding) and the CC floors the throttle.) with a cabled throttle, you push down lightly on the throttle until you feel some resistance but with Throttle by wire, you can only tell when the RPMs start increasing.

    87. Re:PEBAAC by Abcd1234 · · Score: 1

      If the leads to the potentiometer have cracked insulation and get shorted out by dirty water or contact with metal, you have a hard open throttle. I know which I'd rather have.

      Yes, because you can't possibly test for such a condition in software and close the throttle...

    88. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This sounds like people getting paid for being stupid. I do not approve, but who am I, eh?

      A Canadian?

    89. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If the fuel line is pinched, for example, flooring it would cause devastating detonation, EXCEPT in "by wire".

      No, it won't. It checks the amount of fuel that goes in the engine from each injector. It then looks up the amount of air it needs in a table to ensure that the fuel to air ration is correct.

    90. Re:PEBAAC by bkaul01 · · Score: 1

      If the fuel line is pinched, for example, flooring it would cause devastating detonation, EXCEPT in "by wire".

      Sorry, but that's not true. It is true that in off-road race engines, where the mixture is usually somewhat fuel-rich, leaning it out will cause higher combustion temperatures, but those peak temperatures occur very close to the stoichiometric fuel/air ratio that all modern cars with three-way catalytic converters are designed to operate at. If you lean it out from there, you'll have a much more dilute mixture, which not only makes detonation much less likely to occur, but in that extreme, makes it less likely that the fuel will ignite at all. I did my dissertation research on highly dilute SI combustion, and even with a very advanced spark timing, the problems to be avoided are always misfires and incomplete combustion, not detonation.

      Besides that, the ECU has full control of the ignition timing on new vehicles, and control of spark advance from the base timing even on older vehicles that still used distributors. By retarding the spark timing, knock can be easily avoided even under conditions much more favorable than the ultra-lean mixture that would result from WOT and a pinched fuel line.

      I'm not suggesting that there are no benefits to drive-by-wire throttle control. There certainly are, especially in more technologically advanced engines like the direct injection turbocharged engines Ford's rolling out. But the situation you pose where a mechanical throttle would supposedly be disastrous goes completely against how combustion physics actually work.

    91. Re:PEBAAC by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      If we followed KISS when building cars, you'd get about 12 MPG.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    92. Re:PEBAAC by j00r0m4nc3r · · Score: 1

      Throttle by wire IMO, is fucking with the KISS rule.

      We can't just make everything out of cogs and butterfly valves forever. Everything will be by-wire eventually. The sooner we nail this shit down, the better...

    93. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      To propose that somehow mechanical cables are safer because they are simpler is severely flawed.

        Have you every seen how easy it is to get a mechanical throttle to get stuck? Also in a wreck the cable the throttle can become pinched, stuck at full throttle not fun. Look at the back of street/strip drag car they have emergency kill switch on the back bumper for this reason, along with wanting to kill the fuel pump.

      Depress clutch, depress brake, pull over?

    94. Re:PEBAAC by MikeBabcock · · Score: 1

      We had to do this in my driver training. Throw the car in neutral, turn off the power, then turn it back on again with your foot over the brake in case something on the road requires your attention.

      The car shuts off, and turns back on just fine without coming to a stop.

      --
      - Michael T. Babcock (Yes, I blog)
    95. Re:PEBAAC by bkaul01 · · Score: 1

      Computer aren't exactly a new-fangled technology, and most cars built after the 70's or so have had some form of by-wire throttle control (I'm speaking, of course, of electronically controlled anti-lock brake systems which, while not fully by-wire, include a by-wire system alongside the mechanical one).

      Huh? ABS systems didn't come out nearly that early, have no interaction whatsoever with the throttle, and aren't even braking-by-wire: they can momentarily relieve the pressure on a brake line to prevent wheel lock-up, but they can't apply the brakes on their own (except in newer vehicles when combined with a traction control system, which can apply brakes and retard engine timing, etc. to arrest wheel spin). I agree that there's no need to be paranoid about computer controls, but where do you get the idea of ABS as by-wire throttle control?

    96. Re:PEBAAC by MikeBabcock · · Score: 1

      I was going to make the same comment about following too close, but I have to disagree on worst driver status.

      That honour goes to the idiot who was backing up in the slow lane on a divided highway the other day in front of me. That's right, i saw the whites of his reverse lights as he weaved around trying to back his car up to get to the missed off-ramp. Not only was he in reverse on the road, but on a major highway, and not on the shoulder, and couldn't drive in a straight line in reverse anyway.

      Yes, I speed-dialled the authorities as I avoided him.

      --
      - Michael T. Babcock (Yes, I blog)
    97. Re:PEBAAC by fractoid · · Score: 1

      Your suggestions definitely improve things a lot, but there's still the potential for some physically very small fault to cause an arbitrarily large misbehaviour in the vehicle as a whole. I think I could probably tolerate it if the critical components were sealed 'smart' units which communicated metadata as well as raw measurements, giving a much more controlled failure mode.

      At some stage, electronics will become more reliable than cables, statistically-wise. But I don't think we're there yet. And socially, it's going to cause dramas when we do get there. Think of the debate about automated cars. Thousands of people worldwide die in car crashes every day due to human error but the moment someone dies in a car driven by a computer, all hell will break loose.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    98. Re:PEBAAC by maxume · · Score: 1

      From other comments, it sounds like most of the systems use at least two senders, and when the output does not match sufficiently, close the throttle (assuming the reliability on the individual sensors is high, this is a reasonable response; I'm sure that a good deal of thought goes into how quickly to close the throttle and such, to mitigate consequences when it happens at high speed; a more expensive system could use 3 senders and continue to function while reporting that 1 of the senders had failed).

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    99. Re: PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Having redundant sensors on the Prius does not guarantee redundant sensors on all Toyota 'throttle by wire' models.

    100. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'd think not.

      It's called "drive by wire" technology.

      I bought an '09 Civic and the thing has a sensor attached to the gas pedal instead of the traditional wire directly to a butterfly valve.

      I read somewhere that if the PCM didn't think things were right, there's a failsafe "limp home" mode that trips the throttle plate to some slightly higher than idle position and disconnects the pedal and any other controls.

      One of the sales guys who I met in the process of buying this car insisted that the computer controlled throttle makes it more responsive and safer. Throttle by wire IMO, is fucking with the KISS rule.

      If butterfly valve is "directly" linked to the throttle you control the valve directly by pedal position. The more you press on the pedal the more the valve opens, more fuel+air gets into the cylinders giving you more power.

      But there is a catch, when cruising with low throttle, butterfly valve is almost closed and engine starts acting like a vacuum pump sucking the mixture through the almost closed valve. It's called "pumping loss" and has a (obviously) negative effect on fuel efficiency.

      The people that designed the Civic's R18 engine thought of a pretty clever idea how to reduce the pumping loss and thus improve the fuel efficiency under low load.

      Civic's R18 engine requires throttle by wire. The trick is that under low load conditions ECU opens the butterfly valve almost fully in order to reduce the pumping loss and then expels the excess mixture in the upstroke. That is exactly the opposite of what you would have were the throttle and butterfly directly connected (as fully open butterfly corresponds to full throttle).

    101. Re:PEBAAC by StayFrosty · · Score: 1

      Throttle by wire has been proven to be extremely responsive. More importantly, it is part of a closed-loop operation, whereby the ECU can properly evaluate requested levels versus actual in pretty much everything. If the fuel line is pinched, for example, flooring it would cause devastating detonation, EXCEPT in "by wire". Once the fuel present was mismatched to the air, the ECU would force the throttle to close somewhat, regardless of pedal position. The exception is in many cases of a wide open throttle request, when some output levels like fuel overrich are ignored, and the ECU uses an internal map of what "should be going in and out, given the max power request.

      The TPS is quite different than "drive by wire." Most (I want to say all here but I'm not 100% sure) EFI cars have a TPS. The TPS is attached to the throttle butterfly valve that is moved with a cable or other mechanical linkage. The "drive by wire" systems that are being discussed here eliminate the cable/linkage and open the valve electronically. Any car with a TPS is going to avoid the detonation scenario you mention above. Any carbureted car is not going to have that issue as the fuel flow is controlled by airflow due to the ventri effect.

      --
      "Frequently wrong, never in doubt."
    102. Re:PEBAAC by GooberToo · · Score: 1

      Handing over complete control of any further automotive function to a computer is goddamn terrifying.

      And yet people fly commercial airliners every day without a second thought.

      Interesting note, at least three commercial jet crashes are known to have been as a direct result of failed fly by wire (hydraulic) controls. As many as six, in total, are suspected, which were previously deemed pilot error. The failure is in its hydraulic system which controls the rudder of the aircraft.

      It seems the hydraulic jack which moves the rudder left or right can spontaneously reverse direction in a linear manner. This reversal forces pilots to compensate to prevent the aircraft from spiraling into the ground. Yet because the rudder is moving in the opposite direction than pilot input, it exacerbates the problem. This in turn forces the pilot to compensate far more aggressively which only continues to aggressively make the death spiral worse. An impact into the ground is all but assured because the correction required of the pilot is completely unintuitive (exactly opposite of all training); requiring input which pilots know would classically make the problem far, far worse.

      The manufacturer's engineers have verified the problem is theoretically impossible and yet have somewhat recreated the problem. The exact problem has never been fully recreated. To date they are at a complete loss as to exactly how or why it happens; though unverified theories exist and they do know large temperature deltas are a component. To address the problem the manufacturer added a third hydraulic jack such that no single jack reversal can overpower the other two; thusly ensuring the pilot always maintains control of the rudder during a single hydraulic jack failure. And that's what much of America's passengers are flying with today, via commercial passenger air travel.

      The aircraft is question is a Boeing 737.

      Have a happy flight!

    103. Re:PEBAAC by interkin3tic · · Score: 1

      Handing over complete control of any further automotive function to a computer is goddamn terrifying.

      Less fun too, and many times, more to go wrong. I'm looking at you, automatic transmissions.

    104. Re:PEBAAC by joggle · · Score: 1

      Why the heck can't these people just pop the shift lever to neutral? I can't imagine how that wouldn't stop them from accelerating.

    105. Re:PEBAAC by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          When I can walk at over 100mph, and not get wet in the rain, or hot when it's 100 degrees out, I'll be more than happy to walk rather than drive. :)

          But hey, you're a troll, I don't know why I'm bothering to answer.

          And ya, I suck at giving gifts for a holiday that the Christians subjugated from ... well, everyone else. I'm a lot of fun for the holidays surrounding the Winter Solstice though. Food, drinks, and gifts for all! Even for you, my blasphemous little friend... even you...

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    106. Re:PEBAAC by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          Oddly enough, I just replaced a TPS in a friends Dodge truck. It would stall when started cold, and would sometimes stall while driving. Oh, and it ran terribly rough. There were absolutely no stored OBD-II codes. He took it to three different shops that couldn't figure it out. I noticed the computer wasn't registering my throttle position changes quite right, so I swapped the TPS. It was $35 for his.

           

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    107. Re:PEBAAC by socrplayr813 · · Score: 1

      I had the throttle stick on me with my old Toyota Camry (before computers took over) and I have to say, that was frightening. It was an especially cold day and it took a couple of minutes for it to warm up and move freely again. Luckily, I was driving on a relatively straight road with no stops. Not that I'm in any way afraid of technology, but after that experience, I will gladly give myself to the computer-controlled goodness of this new age.

      I'm a mechanical engineering doing Quality Assurance for a medical device manufacturer, so I know a thing or two about testing and validation. While there is a chance of a software problem, the odds of something like that making it through QA and repeated government tests are astronomical.

      --
      The confidence of ignorance will always overcome the indecision of knowledge.
    108. Re:PEBAAC by DomNF15 · · Score: 1

      That throttle valve is located in most cases close to the top of your engine - as is the cable or the electronic throttle positioning device. If those things are getting inundated with water, you have bigger problems than electrical shorting...

    109. Re:PEBAAC by phision · · Score: 1

      I totally disagree. My current car (Citroen C5) has a drive-by-wire throttle and it is a very unpleasant experience to drive it. There is like 0.5 - 1 second delay in the reaction of the throttle. This leads to difficult starting (especially on a slope), revving up while changing gears and so on. I am already used to the slowness and I manage to drive smoothly, but I do not like the feeling anyway.
      Of course there may be some problem with my car. I got it diagnosed by my dealer and they assured me everything is OK and this is normal. It is hard for me to believe that the computer inside is too slow ;), so I guess this behavior is intentional.

    110. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "So for the throttle to stick down both pedal sensors have to fail in the same way at the same time, which seems highly unlikely to me."

      Really? Unlikely? How about Yaris/Prius cars losing brakes when you lose power?

      Wire operation is CRAP. You lose your power source, you're fucked without manual safeties or manual backup systems, which overall just increases complexity and poijts of failure.

      NO THANK YOU. Keep your Drive By wire crap out of here, I'll take rack and pinion and steel braided throttle cable all day every day.

    111. Re:PEBAAC by jim_v2000 · · Score: 1

      >mechanical cables suck ass to put in and are more prone to failure!

      Have some numbers to back that up or is today baseless-assertion day and no one told me?

      --
      Don't take life so seriously. No one makes it out alive.
    112. Re:PEBAAC by LWATCDR · · Score: 1

      Yea mechanical throttle cables never fail....
      Actually drive by wire does make the care more responsive and smooths out throttle response. Using the a drive by wire you can create a linear power curve where there was none. That makes the car or motorcycle a lot easier to control. It all also allows traction control. A lot more people have died from and or gotten hurt from a car getting out of control than will or have gotten hurt from drive by wire.
      As it is your car is already using EFI so forget about KISS. Drive by wire and EFI beats the daylights out of a carb and gas pedal for safety any day.

      --
      See my blog http://ilovecookes.blogspot.com/ for light hearted technical information.
    113. Re:PEBAAC by Big+Boss · · Score: 1

      Well, it keeps the power steering and brakes active for a minute anyway. Till your engine self-destructs from the over-RPM condition caused by an unloaded engine with an open throttle. Still, better than death caused by an out of control vehicle.

    114. Re:PEBAAC by Khyber · · Score: 1

      "To propose that somehow mechanical cables are safer because they are simpler is severely flawed. "

      Ahh, someone that has no clue about the physical properties of the metals about which they speak!

      Steel vs Copper

      Tensile strength - Steel wins
      Conductivity - copper wins but steel can work just as well as copper for the simple task of transmitting electrical signals.
      corrosion resistance - You can make stainless steel. Copper still corrodes.
      Steel is harder than copper on the Moh's hardness scale.

      Steel is pretty much superior for all but the fact that it has less electrical conductivity than copper.

      And I've built junior dragster cars, so I *DO* have some degree of divine insight into how a car works. Electronic systems fail much more often than mechanical systems, from both owned purchased vehicle experience and built vehicle experience.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    115. Re:PEBAAC by mayko · · Score: 1

      Normally I would just turn the key off. I don't know why people ever freak out about a stuck throttle. This isn't the movie speed, just turn the key off and stop the car with the brake peddle.

    116. Re:PEBAAC by Khyber · · Score: 1

      ICEs require mechanical parts to operate. You just can't get around that. You're adding yet ANOTHER layer of complexity by introducing excessive electronics. A fully mechanical system may have a high chance of an unsafe failure but there's less of a chance of ANY failure because there are less things to fail. There's also a higher chance of cheap, safe, and effective self-repair with a mechanical system as opposed to one supported by electronics.

      Also, that electronic system isn't going to do a goddamned thing for safety if the brakes totally fail, anyways. You're going to either have to force the transmission into park or you're going to have to jump from the vehicle, or crash. Just like Toyota experienced recently with one of their hybrids. Power failed, no way to stop, or effectively steer.

      So I'll stick with pure mechanical.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    117. Re:PEBAAC by mcgrew · · Score: 1

      drive-by-wire is something relatively new (50yrs of use)

      The first computer was patented in 1946. There was no "drive by wire" in 1959. Back then a computer comparable to a musical hallmark card took an entire building to house.

      See Growing Up With Computers for a history lesson.

      hydraulic are much less mature than banging two sticks together

      You're giving badanalogyguy a run for his money! As to the "drive by wire being better or worse because it's new", traditional throttle controls have caused people to die, too -- I knew a man who did. The verdict was suicide until an accident investigator examined the car.

      It's been over thirty years ago, I don't even remember the fellow's name, but I can't forget his death. He had the absolute worst day of anybody's life I ever heard of.

      He had a Firebird with a 396 CI engine with dual exhaust and two four barrel carbs. Really nice car. Anyway, he lost his job, his girlfriend broke up with him, and his dad threw him out of the house. An hour later he hit the 17th car of a freight train at 96 miles per hour. Everyone thought he'd committed suicide.

      The accident investigator said different. He'd taken off from a stop sign and the motor mount broke, twisting the engine and pulling the throttle cable all the way open. It would have been a matter of seconds before he hit the train.

    118. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This actually sounds like a problem with the MAF.

    119. Re:PEBAAC by bongey · · Score: 1

      There are many unseen safety features , just look at this. http://tinyurl.com/yf5cb44

    120. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've had a mechanical throttle catch because the engine rotated farther than normal on its mounts and trapped the linkage, causing the vehicle to stick in full throttle.

      That said, I'd still rather have a mechanical linkage. I was able put my toe under the pedal and lift it to free the linkage and stop the runaway engine. If a computer decides to do a full throttle runaway, fiddling with the pedal probably won't help.

    121. Re:PEBAAC by bongey · · Score: 1

      Ahh, someone that has no clue about the physical properties of the metals about which they speak!

      This a red herring from hell. I was not comparing copper vs steel.I was comparing the implementation of the Mechanical throttle vs Electronic Throttle Control. Here I looked it up for you http://tinyurl.com/yf5cb44 . If I was arguing about the safety of ABS vs non-ABS, your reply would be comparing the different types of brake fluid I could use,totally off point.

      Also for junior dragsters I wouldn't be surprised if it was illegal to use ETC, think about it . The driver would have not need any skill in throttle control. You could write a program to execute the acceleration perfectly every time.

      On side note I majored in math,cs and minored in physics along with being physics TA, so I do know a little about physical properties, but I wasn't comparing the physical properties.

    122. Re:PEBAAC by mobby_6kl · · Score: 1

      I assume you mean "on most cars" :)

      ABS was standard on my '86 Ford Scorpio, I think Opel/Vauxhall Omegas had it as an option from about the same time, and it was most definitely available on various Mercedes models from that period. Wikipedia also suggests that ABS was standard on E28 BMWs from '85. By volume you're probably still right, as this doesn't account for the majority of shitboxes people actually drive, but it's not like it was an unheard of technology at the time.

    123. Re:PEBAAC by shiftless · · Score: 1

      The problem, IMO, is likely that drive-by-wire systems have too much unnecessary complication. Now, I know absolutely nothing about cars,

      That much is obvious. But then again, what ever stopped a random Slashdotter from having an opinion on something he knows nothing about?

      Drive by wire systems are becoming standard because they cut down on noise and vibration being introduced in the cabin, because they make the throttle response more linear and smooth (especially when the A/C compressor, cruise control, hydroboost braking system, power steering, etc are kicking on and off) and because most importantly, giving the ECU control over throttle position enables better launch and traction control schemes to be implemented. It's not about cost at all. I guarantee a simple throttle cable is a hell of a lot cheaper to manufacture than the double or triple redundant throttle position sensor plus highly fault tolerant throttle position motor and extra wiring required for a drive by wire scheme.

      Likewise, at the idiots claiming that fly-by-wire is worse because OMG the computer could go into an infinite loop or something: what, is the ECU running Windows Vista? Did they hire some 16 year old hacker to design their hardware with parts ordered off Newegg? No, dumb asses. Automotive ECUs are some of the finest embedded and integrated electronic control systems ever built. The manufacturers put a metric fuckload of thought, effort, and money into engineering (in the real sense of the term, not like "software engineering") reliable, trustworthy firmware and hardware for their ECUs. They are designed from A to Z to be highly reliable and safe. Yes, minor bugs do sometimes slip through, but it's pretty much unheard of for a major bug to get through that could actually result in injury or death.

    124. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Personally, I can't believe that nobody has mentioned SkyNet

    125. Re:PEBAAC by lewiscr · · Score: 1

      you can always pull the emergency brake

      Do they make cars with emergency brakes anymore? My last 4 cars have only had a parking brake, that manually activates the rear brakes. In my current car, the rear brakes are so pathetically small that I doubt they would do much. The drum brake in my previous car might have done it, but that car was front wheel drive with a big weight imbalance. I'm pretty sure the rears would have locked up before they slowed the car down at all.

    126. Re:PEBAAC by Burning1 · · Score: 1

      If the fuel line is pinched, for example, flooring it would cause devastating detonation

      Citation please?

      Cars have literally had knock sensors for decades. My observation is that the main advantage of throttle by wire is that it allows the computer to smooth out and dynamically adjust the throttle based on conditions.

      For instance, many throttle by wire motorcycles have a rain mode. The computer prevents the user from whacking the throttle open in slippery conditions. Likewise, it somewhat slows throttle response for smother acceleration - typically only sport or race modes would allow the user to open the throttle instantly.

      Previously, this kind of smothing might be accomplished using a set of servo controlled throttle plates. Throttle by wire simplifies the design by eliminating the mechanical plates.

    127. Re:PEBAAC by shiftless · · Score: 1

      Sorry, but that's not true. It is true that in off-road race engines, where the mixture is usually somewhat fuel-rich, leaning it out will cause higher combustion temperatures, but those peak temperatures occur very close to the stoichiometric fuel/air ratio that all modern cars with three-way catalytic converters are designed to operate at. If you lean it out from there, you'll have a much more dilute mixture, which not only makes detonation much less likely to occur, but in that extreme, makes it less likely that the fuel will ignite at all. I did my dissertation research on highly dilute SI combustion, and even with a very advanced spark timing, the problems to be avoided are always misfires and incomplete combustion, not detonation.

      Wow, I'm glad you're not an engine tuner. I think you need to take your degree back for a refund. A gasoline automobile engine only operates around stoich at idle and cruise conditions. Under moderate to heavy acceleration, a properly-tuned engine runs much richer than stoich. If you tried to run an automobile engine at stoich under acceleration it'd self destruct from detonation in short order.

    128. Re:PEBAAC by shiftless · · Score: 1

      That would have been a throttle linkage, i.e. a solid bar connecting throttle pedal to carburetor. The scenario you described is the very reason throttle linkages went the way of the dodo in the early 70s to be replaced by throttle cables, which are not susceptible to that problem.

    129. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      When you hire an entire crew of highly paid professional mechanics to fully examine and service your car after each trip you make, that analogy will make sense.

    130. Re:PEBAAC by kestasjk · · Score: 1

      But independent tests were run and found no problems with it. Unless you believe in gremlins that's pretty conclusive. (And I expect 90+% of people here earn their paychecks based on some understanding of computers, please don't flatter yourself into thinking you're an expert.)

      --
      // MD_Update(&m,buf,j);
    131. Re:PEBAAC by shiftless · · Score: 1

      wow. bad idea. ever had an engine explode on you? do that and it most likely will.

      LOL, your fucking engine is not going to explode. Do you, or any of the others who made this brain dead comment, have the slightest clue how an engine works? Even back in the 60s, even with a shitty bottom of the barrel Chevrolet motor you weren't likely to blow up an engine from holding it wide ass open, especially for the 30 seconds it might take to pull over and stop the car. The valves will float and limit engine RPMs long before the engine reaches speeds high enough to sling it apart. Nowadays, every modern car engine has a rev limiter which keeps the engine within safe operating limits. You can bounce the thing off the rev limiter all day long and you're not going hurt a thing. If your engine explodes into flaming pieces and kills you because you bounced it off the rev limiter for a few seconds, then you and your Yugo both deserved to die anyway.

    132. Re:PEBAAC by Jarjarthejedi · · Score: 1

      Odd...looks like slashdot throws away the less than sign symbol, that was supposed to be less than 50 yrs.

      --
      There are two kinds of fool One says 'This is old therefore good' Another says 'This is new therefore better'- Dean Ing
    133. Re:PEBAAC by volpe · · Score: 1

      Throttle by wire IMO, is fucking with the KISS rule.

      Except in a hybrid (I drive a Prius). It's gotta decide to rev up the electric motor or the gasoline engine.

    134. Re:PEBAAC by Khyber · · Score: 1

      "I was comparing the implementation of the Mechanical throttle vs Electronic Throttle Control."

      Might as well be the difference between copper and steel, because inherently those are the metals used respectively in each mentioned throttle type, and is truly the major difference - analog versus digital, in a sense. One uses physical force, the other uses electrical impulses. Why not build both along the same cable? Manual control fails, send a signal down the cable anyways to force electric backups to work.

      Stil too many points of failure in an electronic system. Also, more cost to repair electrical systems that fail. Wiring harnesses alone for most vehicles top three thousand dollars (the replacement for my 98 Taurus was 2200)

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    135. Re:PEBAAC by mhajicek · · Score: 1

      Auto makers avoid KISS like the plague. The more complicated a car is, the more expensive and difficult it will be to repair, and the more likely you will be to give up and buy a new one.

    136. Re:PEBAAC by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          You know, that's one of those things that I've always wondered.

          Years ago, I was driving in an old van. I had just hit the gas to accelerate from a stop. I needed to accelerate to 30mph. When I left off the gas, it didn't stop accelerating. It didn't take me more than about 2 seconds to realize what happened, bump the key down to "off" (but not "lock"), the shifter into neutral, and rolled just off the road to a nice safe stop.

          Hell, if for some mysterious reason you can't do that, stand on the brakes, and set the emergency brake until it stops. Pull it into the grass, the extra resistance will help slow it down. Or worst case, rub it against a guard rail or a wall until it stops. You can really upset some folks, and rub it down the side of parked cars. It's not as bad as head on.

          Shouldn't drivers know how to deal with emergencies? Oh ya, they are.

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
    137. Re:PEBAAC by fractoid · · Score: 1

      An impact into the ground is all but assured because the correction required of the pilot is completely unintuitive (exactly opposite of all training); requiring input which pilots know would classically make the problem far, far worse.

      Unless, of course, the pilots spent their youth playing Tornado. Those aircraft had the nasty aerodynamic 'feature' that if you got into a tailspin, they couldn't get out in the conventional manner (by using pitch-up and rudder-out). Instead you had to pitch IN to the turn and essentially do a wing-over to get the plane aerodynamically stable again. Just hope to god you're high enough above the ground...

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    138. Re:PEBAAC by fractoid · · Score: 1

      As a lot of people have said, apparently this car had no rapid, intuitive way to disengage the drive mechanism if the central computer stopped behaving. So none of that old-fashioned stuff that'd work your or my vehicles will work because the controls in the cockpit just ask the computer nicely instead of directly pushing bits of metal around to do the job.

      That was a big safety issue with electric cars, which is that an electrical fault could cause the car to instantly go to full power. They generally have a prominently placed kill switch which triggers a heavy duty circuit breaker; I can't see why hybrids or any other drive-by-wire design should not have similar.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    139. Re:PEBAAC by adolf · · Score: 1

      I own a car that has drive by wire throttle, to facilitate traction control. Here's the cool part about it:

      It also has a bog-standard, completely separate, isolated cable-driven mechanical throttle.

      The two of them are merely placed in series in the intake path. So, I get a real throttle control all for me, and the traction control system gets one for itself as well.

      The extra throttle body and plate default to being wide open. The worse case failure is that it closes due to a logic fault, the car decelerates as if you've lifted your foot off the gas, and then you just lift the hood, unplug the sodden thing and drive away.

      (I've actually been considering unplugging the sodden thing anyway, in order to get more oversteer while maintaining the brake-actuating TCS functions, but that's another story altogether.)

    140. Re:PEBAAC by adolf · · Score: 1

      Turning the key off, in most vehicles that I am experienced with over the past 30 or so model years, also locks the steering wheel.

      Having to choose between a runaway vehicle, or a vehicle which can be slowed but cannot be steered is an ugly fucking choice that should not have to be made.

      Some manufacturers don't build vehicles that work that way -- for instance, my 1995 BMW does not lock the steering until the key is not just turned off, but completely removed. It is therefore safe to turn this car off, also safe to steer and slow it to a stop.

      In a GM? Fahgetaboutit. Dig it: After reaching an uncongested and straight bit of road during the uncontrollable acceleration event which you are trying to eliminate, you first ensure that the steering wheel is set appropriately, and turn the key to "Off. Then, you forget about steering lest it lock in some horror-causing orientation that sends you cartwheeling through a ditch. You wait for the motor to stop running and turn the key back on so you can operate the gearshift lever. Then, quickly, you put the transmission in neutral (before the motor restarts), and then turn the car back on (so you can bloody steer again...). Meh. Double-meh, even. Various variations depending on make and the interlocks in play, but that just adds more complications to an unexpected and irrefutably bad sitatuion. Triple-fucking meh.

      No, sir. Neutral is a far better choice. I've driven unmodified factory motors at or near redline for tens of thousands of miles, while bouncing off the rev limiter on every bloody shift. A half-minute or so of a modern gasoline engine hitting the rev limiter while you safely slow to a stop is ALWAYS going to cost less than the alternatives, on average. Worse case? Broken valves. But at least you'll fucking live.

      It ain't "movie speed," you're right about that. But four people have died. You wanna make yourself the fifth?

    141. Re:PEBAAC by SeaFox · · Score: 1

      Well, it keeps the power steering and brakes active for a minute anyway.

      And how long were you planning to spend pulling your car over and shutting it off now that you can slow it down?

    142. Re:PEBAAC by SeaFox · · Score: 1

      Turning the key off, in most vehicles that I am experienced with over the past 30 or so model years, also locks the steering wheel.

      On many that's only if you put the key in the "Lock" position (the only one where you can remove the key on any make and model, some will allow key removal even in Accessory mode). You could also turn the key to Accessory, and then back to On after the engine has died. This will free the wheel but the engine will remain off since it has to be restarted now. The ignition coil (if your car has one) will continue to charge and may eventually overload since it's not being discharged by the ignition system firing pistons now, but that will take some time to happen, so it wont be an issue in the time it spends on while you slow the car and pull over.

      Depending on the power steering or brake system you have you may be able to operate them even without the engine running. An electric power steering pump will keep working off the battery for example.

    143. Re:PEBAAC by SeaFox · · Score: 1

      There have been plenty of cars over time with no power steering - you can still steer, it is just a little harder (a good thing at a high rate of speed) and you can always pull the emergency brake - that is why it is there!

      I was speaking for the average driver who doesn't know how to handle a vehicle with non-power assist steering and brakes. I had an old Honda Accord that developed a leaking steering rack. After awhile I couldn't keep the power steering fluid filled and eventually stopped trying. Drove the car for years with no power steering after that. My first car was a '64 Ford Galaxie. It had power steering but all-drum manual brakes. It wasn't the lack of power assist on the brakes that frightened me occasionally, it was the brake fade from being all drums.

    144. Re:PEBAAC by SeaFox · · Score: 1

      Try to ignore the ear-shattering whine as your engine tears itself to pieces.

      You underestimate the stress-taking ability of your car's engine. Unless you're going to let your car roar at maximum RPM for a few hours it will be okay. I personally plan to pull over once I regain control and have the engine off within a minute or so, but maybe you're different. Also remember that most cars nowadays have rev limiters in the ignition system.

      Catch on fire? Would you mind explaining how that's likely to happen? Even if you throw a rod the engine will just begin knocking VERY loudly. Once it's unable to keep the assembly rotating it will stall and maybe smoke. You're not getting much fresh air inside a stalled engine to feed a fire, and unless it's way overheated there isn't going to be anything igniting.

    145. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My old car's antilock brakes used to kick in while stopping even when i wasn't sliding. Turns out the wheel speed sensor was giving false readings about the wheels not turning and thus the ABS would kick in causing absurdly long stopping distances. it was kinda scary.

    146. Re:PEBAAC by adolf · · Score: 1

      Very interesting. Almost.

      I was following right along with what you said, until I got to the part about The ignition coil (if your car has one), and then my mind went blank with imagery of sheer stupidy.

      Every modern gasoline-fired car has an ignition coil. As does every single genuine antique gas-powered vehicle that I can think of. It is, essentially, a prerequisite of making spark plugs spark.

      My own car has six of them. My previous car had three. The car before that had two. And, way back when, I had a car that just had one coil.

      And all but the last of these were electronically-controlled, and would not charge the coil (nor discharge it into a sparkplug) when set to "Off" (or "Lock" or "Default" or whatever the fuck you want to call it.)

      What were you going on about, again?

    147. Re:PEBAAC by SeaFox · · Score: 1

      I was following right along with what you said, until I got to the part about The ignition coil (if your car has one), and then my mind went blank with imagery of sheer stupidy.

      Every modern gasoline-fired car has an ignition coil. As does every single genuine antique gas-powered vehicle that I can think of. It is, essentially, a prerequisite of making spark plugs spark.

      That was a brain fart on my part. I was remembering a '75 Maverick I bought parts for to do a tuneup, and then realized the ignition points I bought were not needed, because the engine I had mas the model with the electronic ignition module, not mechanical points as some other engine options did. They both had coils obviously.

      My point is if you leave the ignition switch in "On" to keep the steering wheel unlocked, the car may continue to charge the ignition coil (since it is supposed to be operating in that mode), but since the engine is not actually running (since you never restarted it) the coil is not being discharged, and therefore may be getting overcharged depending on how sophisticated your ignition setup is.

      If you left you car in the garage this way, you would eventually burn out your ignition coil. But that wouldn't be anything to worry about in the time it takes your to deal with this emergency.

    148. Re:PEBAAC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Just because you drive car,bought a car, doesn't give you divine insight on how a car works, and somehow your experience brings insight to the conversation.Spend a little time working on/ modifying a car and you will quickly discover; mechanical cables suck ass to put in and are more prone to failure!

      There's a polite word for how you said what you said above but I prefer 'complete wanker'. Yes I have spent quite some time working with cars and I would go with a mechanical system every time given the choice. A cable is also incapable of thought it is just an object. Sticking a fucking computer and associated electronics in the loop is not a fucking universal panacea for the worlds ills and just because you suspect you have a bigger brain that n the person you responded too also doesn't make it so.
      More prone to failure? please upgrade to 'complete an utter tosspot'

    149. Re:PEBAAC by TheMaTrIxBEL · · Score: 1

      Exactly what I was thinking. Because 1 idiot used that as an excuse and others got wind of it, they are now all thinking thats what caused their accidents. Some people are just shit drivers. There's plenty of video's on Break and Youtube to show how bad some drivers are.

    150. Re:PEBAAC by atamido · · Score: 1

      Are you saying the emergency brake lever doesn't work in a Prius if there is no power?

    151. Re:PEBAAC by mcgrew · · Score: 1

      The less than sign is used for HTML, even when you're using Plain Old Text. For instance, <i>italics</i> makes italics. For the "<" sign, &lt; comes out as <.

    152. Re:PEBAAC by bondjamesbond · · Score: 0

      Probably not. Most enlisted guys cannot afford S4s.

    153. Re:PEBAAC by joggle · · Score: 1

      Well, the emergency brake would work, at least on the Prius. It is the same as emergency brakes on other cars and not computer-controlled or interfered with at all. The normal brake and accelerator are completely fly-by-wire on the Prius though, as is the shift lever and power switch so I really don't know how those would behave in this situation.

      Of course, applying the emergency brake at high speeds would be very dangerous since you could easily lock your wheels and spin out of control. It would also be murder on your engine. That would definitely be a last resort for me (well, I guess rubbing my car against parked cars would truly be a last resort).

    154. Re:PEBAAC by adavidw · · Score: 1

      I can't begin to tell what the GP post was trying to say. I will say this, however: Cars don't have emergency brakes these days. They have "parking brakes". Sure, you can try to use it in an emergency, but it's not for nothing that all references in the manuals and other documentation call it a "parking brake".

      In the case of the 2004-2009 Prius, the pedal for the parking brake is hooked directly to a cable that goes straight to the rear drum brakes. That means it will work fine in an emergency, but remember, these are only the rears, and they're drums (except the touring edition). It still might work in many emergency situations, but I don't know if that's enough to stop a car that thinks you're flooring it.

    155. Re:PEBAAC by darthflo · · Score: 1

      Huh? If you're cruising at some useful speed (possibly on the leftmost lane), hit the clutch and you'll still have a few hundred yards to get over onto the emergency lane. Add hazard lights and most other drivers will even free the room you require.

      Going at 70 (the speed limit over here) in the right lane (the left lane over here ;-) and taking my foot off the throttle would result in my slowing down pretty quickly... I know if someone did that in front of me at that speed I don't think I'd crash into them, but would be rather taken aback and have to have quick reflexes to slow down, assuming they couldn't pull out of that land because of heavy traffic. I can imagine a worse driver hitting the back of them.

      Also, in both cases: Turning your motor off and on again should not take more than a few seconds.

      That's one of the things I've always been taught explicitly NOT to do whilst driving. :-) You lose power steering, the brakes will quickly become less effective, and expecting people to turn their car off and on again with very little notice in the middle of driving (a sudden loss of throttle because of this problem they've probably never even heard of) seems like a bizarre suggestion to me.

      Hm, just got the notification email that there were replies half an hour ago or so, bad slashcode and/or gmail!
      Anyhow, you picked the wrong guy to bullshit. I needed to pick up my jacket from the drycleaner's anyways, so I hopped on my bike and tested it.
      The bike used was a Suzuki, weighting in at about 250 kg (that's including me), with rather fresh tires, without ABS; the road is standard asphalt, slightly damp. Fair weather, temperature around 3 deg C.
      I did four runs, each one consisting of accelerating to 60 km/h (+/- 5%), then performing one of the following four actions at the same point:

      1 - disengaging the clutch, letting the bike run to a slow halt; the action I proposed to be taken in the event of an engine failure.
      2 - turning the engine off with the clutch still engaged.
      3 - standard degressive braking (i.e. not as soft as your average bus driver, but still not as hard as to spill coffee anybody might be holding a cup of.)
      4 - hard braking (i.e. slamming the brakes as hard as possible without the front wheel blocking, me falling off the bike and trashing the poor asphalt on impact.)

      Run #1 had me slowing down very calmly, coming to a halt after some 500 metres.

      In run #2 I was slowed down noticeably faster, stopping after some 200 - 250 metres.
      Runs #3 and #4 were a lot shorter, clocking in at some 60-70 and some 30-40 metres, respectively.

      Values for cars ought to be somewhat more extreme as they are more aerodynamic (extends #1) but have better road contact (brakes more in #2,3,4 than #1).

      Where am I going with this, you may ask. It's pretty simple: At any point in time you absolutely need to be prepared to deal with the guy in the car in front of you to do a #3 as described. They happen, and they aren't rarities. A full-on emergency stop is more rare, but you should be able to react to it nonetheless, you probably are required by law to.

      An engine failure, though, cannot ever be a problem. An unprepared, newbie driver will give you about four times the amount of road you should require to calmly stop, and a somewhat skilled driver can prolong that to a factor of nine or ten, enough for either him to get to the emergency lane or you (and the cars behind you) to merge into a neighboring lane, avoiding jams.

      All things considered: Don't fear the engine failure, it's an inconvenience but, handled correctly, as far from dangerous as a Big Mac is from fine food. :]

    156. Re:PEBAAC by clone53421 · · Score: 1

      failsafe "limp home" mode that trips the throttle plate to some slightly higher than idle position and disconnects the pedal and any other controls

      I'm guessing by "other controls" you're not referring to, say, the brakes, steering wheel, or blinkers.

      --
      Alexander Peter Kristopeit bought his basement from his mommy for one dollar.
    157. Re:PEBAAC by Agripa · · Score: 1

      In the case of the 2004-2009 Prius, the pedal for the parking brake is hooked directly to a cable that goes straight to the rear drum brakes. That means it will work fine in an emergency, but remember, these are only the rears, and they're drums (except the touring edition). It still might work in many emergency situations, but I don't know if that's enough to stop a car that thinks you're flooring it.

      Even when completely rebuilt and adjusted, I have never used a drum parking brake that could stall the engine. Lock up the rear wheel or hold the car on an incline? Sure. But they will not stall the engine on a rear wheel drive car. Try using your parking brake sometime to slow down from freeway speeds. It takes quite a bit of distance.

    158. Re:PEBAAC by Agripa · · Score: 1

      We had to do this in my driver training. Throw the car in neutral, turn off the power, then turn it back on again with your foot over the brake in case something on the road requires your attention.

      They did not do this where I learned but I have always driven a manual transmission. Putting the car into gear and releasing the clutch to restart the engine is second nature for me if already moving. I have always owned cars that I could push start solo.

    159. Re:PEBAAC by Agripa · · Score: 1

      I actually prefer a hydraulic clutch because then I don't have to periodically adjust the cable or linkage length.

    160. Re:PEBAAC by YourExperiment · · Score: 1

      If a fault is detected the throttle goes completely off and the car has to be turned off and turned back on to recover.

      So your advice is to trying turning it off and on again?

  3. Put the damn thing in neutral! by the_humeister · · Score: 5, Insightful

    I have to say that the decline in manual transmission driving has really diminished people's driving abilities. It's one thing that the there's an acceleration issue. It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered.

    1. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Dyinobal · · Score: 4, Insightful

      because everyone is always so clear headed when their vehicle suddenly accelerates for no clear reason,and\or has the time to calm down before they collide with something.

    2. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

      The case the media is portraying constantly had enough time to call 911 and ask for help.

      Neither driver nor emergency responder thought of this solution that really should be second nature if you've had THAT much time to react.

      Now, other cases may have been less lucky but for that specific case its kinda darwinistic.

    3. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Predius · · Score: 2, Interesting

      With Toyota Hybrids, the gearshift lever is just a switch for all positions other than park. Flip it all you want between R, N, D, B and all you're doing is asking the ECU to alter what it does with the 'synergy drive', it doesn't change any gears.

      I've played around a bit with my Highlander Hybrid, it does some odd stuff... Put it in Park or Neutral, give it gas, and it'll fire up the gas engine and rev it a bit? Floor the brake pedal, give it some gas, and again, it'll rev the gas engine but not transmit any power to the wheels?

    4. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

      It would be second nature to put the vehicle in neutral if the driver has ever driven a stick-shift for a reasonable period of time. Since anyone who can't drive a stick is automatically a pussy, they get no sympathy =)

    5. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Stupendoussteve · · Score: 1

      This is so people can feel important when they rev their noisy engine and/or signal a street race. Unfortunately it doesn't sound like the Highlander includes the automatic throttle feature.

    6. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by luftrofl · · Score: 1, Insightful

      because everyone is always so clear headed when their vehicle suddenly accelerates for no clear reason,and\or has the time to calm down before they collide with something.

      I apologize in advance if you're NOT being sarcastic. That should be one of the first things that comes to mind- close to but before or after using the brakes depending how fast the driver recognizes the cause of the sudden increase in speed. If one isn't "clear headed" enough to get out of a situation like this, then one shouldn't be driving.

    7. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      or HIT THE BRAKES

    8. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by shutdown+-p+now · · Score: 2, Insightful

      With Toyota Hybrids, the gearshift lever is just a switch for all positions other than park. Flip it all you want between R, N, D, B and all you're doing is asking the ECU to alter what it does with the 'synergy drive', it doesn't change any gears.

      If that's true for N, I smell a lawsuit. Neutral had always meant "physically disconnect engine from wheels". Are you absolutely sure you're correct? I wouldn't ever drive a car in which this isn't true.

      I've played around a bit with my Highlander Hybrid, it does some odd stuff... Put it in Park or Neutral, give it gas, and it'll fire up the gas engine and rev it a bit? Floor the brake pedal, give it some gas, and again, it'll rev the gas engine but not transmit any power to the wheels?

      What's strange about it, and how does it prove your point? Now if you gave it gas on Neutral and it'd drive, then yeah...

    9. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by khallow · · Score: 1

      Absolutely. It's driver's ed 101. If your car is accelerating on its own, put it in neutral and brake. Sure, one can come up with a scenario where you don't have time to react before you hit something, but that apparently wasn't the case with this story.

    10. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If you're not cleared-headed enough to handle this situation you're not capable of driving period.

    11. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by TheModelEskimo · · Score: 4, Funny

      Are you asking us questions or what? I want to take those as statements of fact but it's like you're teasing us with some inappropriate punctuation or something.

    12. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Neutral?? Just stomp on the goddammed BREAKS. You know they fix acceleration issues with deacceleration.

    13. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      With automatic transmissions these days there is this legacy behavior whereby at idle on level ground with no brakes applied the car will creep forward slowly. So now if you want to cross the road you have to dodge creeping cars. I think the default should be for gentle braking with no pedals pressed. With hybrids and electric cars it should be safer to cross the road when there is a queue of nominally stopped cars.

    14. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Known+Nutter · · Score: 1

      Shifting to neutral, steering, and braking in a coordinated fashion seems like a simple operation until you throw the iPod, cell phone, coffee cup, navigation unit, screaming kid, makeup, and stupidity into the equation.

      --
      Beware of the Leopard.
    15. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by mysidia · · Score: 1

      Well, with the amount of force applied by the engine revving that much, it may be almost impossible to switch to neutral. You ever try to switch any of these automatic transmission vehicle from Drive to Neutral when travelling at 100mph with a full open throttle?

      It's not like they have a clutch pedal designed to assist them effortlessly switch gears.

      The accident may occur before they have time to even touch the gear shift lever.

      And in the cases, where the shift controller is an electronic command to the computer, it may not work at all.

    16. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Beryllium+Sphere(tm) · · Score: 1

      In a Prius, the gas engine is always connected to the planet carrier of the power split device, and the ring gear is always connected to the wheels. In neutral, the electric system is neither supplying nor consuming power and the sun gear idles, canceling out the gas engine.

      If, that is, the gas engine is even running. With the car in neutral, the only reason for the car to switch on the gas engine would be to re-warm the emission control system. Or for backwards compatibility if someone steps on the accelerator.

    17. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by oldhack · · Score: 1

      That applies to just about any advancement in the automobile. Years ago I've gone into a minor fenderbender because I was pumping the brake when the car had ABS.

      --
      Fuck systemd. Fuck Redhat. Fuck Soylent, too. Wait, scratch the last one.
    18. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maharb · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Those that drive manuals would be more clear headed because driving is an active activity where one is engaged with the machine. I don't mean to be a dick but people who drive manuals inherently understand how the fuck a car works because it is required to get the thing moving and stopped. The new generations of people who drive only automatics truly don't understand what is going on with their cars even if they had time to think clearly and then you have the people who may know but have never had to react in that way.

      When you drive a manual transmission daily you will probably encounter several situations a year where "both pedals in" is required to keep you safe. Essentially anyone who has driven manual has practiced the solution to this problem. Anyone in a automatic has not. In a automatic cars you can just hit the breaks and forget about what that meant the car had to do.

      So I believe the parent is correct in his assumption that manual transmissions create drivers that are better equipped to handle situations on the road than the average automatic only driver. I am not saying that every person who drives a manual is a great driver, just that they are better equipped to handle situations on the road assuming all other variables are equal.

    19. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by 0123456 · · Score: 1

      It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered.

      Will an electronically controlled transmission even let you put the car in neutral while the engine is running flat out?

      These days the controls in the typical modern car are merely suggestions to the computers that are really driving it, so who knows they'll do in extreme circumstances?

    20. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      yes (at least a nissan altima hybrid, which uses the same toyota patented technology as a prius or lexus hybrid allows you to shift into neutral while running at speed)

    21. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by cyn1c77 · · Score: 5, Insightful

      because everyone is always so clear headed when their vehicle suddenly accelerates for no clear reason,and\or has the time to calm down before they collide with something.

      Way to prove the grandparent's point!

      Seriously, if my car were to accelerate without warning, the first thing I would do would be to push down the clutch. The second would be to apply the brake. And if that didn't work, I would pull the emergency brake. Meanwhile, aim for something soft without people in it.

      If you can't mentally run through that four step list in a throttle malfunction, you shouldn't be driving. I mean, come on...The first two actions should be instinctual, panic or not.

    22. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by sustik · · Score: 1

      You put the car in neutral and the engine goes to 8000RPM. That will freak you out, I guarantee.

      I had a problem of the accelerator pedal sticking down when I floored it (car was getting old needed to floor to get the acceleration). Just press on the break, it will win over the gas pedal, eventually the engine will stop as the rpm drops. Once the engine stopped the gas pedal released.

      Second time it happened I turned off the engine and pushed out the clutch the same time, gas pedal unstuck, and I restarted the engine in 5th!

    23. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by sustik · · Score: 1

      Your engine will race to 8000RPM. Will that freak you out? Were you prepared for that when you wrote the above? Honestly? (When I taught my fiance to drive a manual she freaked out regularly at the beginning over the engine revving; until she learned to coordinate the clutch/gas/stick.)

      You may need to turn off the engine *and* push out the clutch (to avoid the sudden jerky slowdown) and break in a controlled fashion. You may restart the engine in 4th or 5th too if you have the guts.

    24. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      People who are trained on Unix knows their computers better than people who are trained with brain-dead OSes such as Windows, Macs and Ubuntu.

    25. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by the_humeister · · Score: 1

      No it won't freak me out, because I know what I'm doing. I'd shift to neutral and turn off the engine. It's that simple.

    26. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Exactly... and this can happen in an old-fashioned car too...I had an '84 chev and one day, was changing the air filter...was in a hurry, and when I reinstalled the air filter body I misaligned it... halfway down the street, I opened the throttle and when I took my foot off the pedal the engine continued to accelerate .threw it in neutral and pulled over... turned out, the misaligned air filter body had caught the throttle cable when it moved, sticking it open...

    27. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My 07 Camry hybrid won't even rev the engine if I'm in park or neutral. As I understand it, the highlander hybrid uses the electric motors to add power to the gasoline engine, but the gas engine has to always run. the camry is like the prius in that it can run on electric only up to about 40 mph.

      That said, my Camry has also lunged a few times when I'm turning the engine off. Sequence of events: pull into driveway, put car in park, take foot off brake (car does not move; it also happens if i keep my foot on the brake, which I try to do), push the start/stop button to turn the car off and the car will suddenly jump forward a couple of inches. Oddly enough, killing the car in drive, then shifting to park and the problem doesn't happen. It's very disconcerting to say the least.

    28. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by cgenman · · Score: 1

      If that's true for N, I smell a lawsuit. Neutral had always meant "physically disconnect engine from wheels". Are you absolutely sure you're correct? I wouldn't ever drive a car in which this isn't true.

      If you have a drive-by-wire system, "N" inherently means "tell the computer to physically disconnect the engine from the wheels." And if your computer is staying up, that should allow you to engage neutral in more places than you otherwise should, though considering this is a hybrid I doubt engine breaking is a normal concern.

      I actually had thought that breaking in a regular car would disengage the engine... until I tried it. Good on Toyota for getting it right with their hybrid, and hopefully this "strange" behavior will become standard.

    29. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Random5 · · Score: 1

      brAKEs aren't designed to counter the engine at full throttle, they will overheat and fade (look up 'brake fade', you might learn something). When your car locks you out of neutral because it thinks you're accelerating and is push button start there's pretty much nothing you can do but jump out or deliberately crash before you speed up too much

    30. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by FrankieBaby1986 · · Score: 1

      What's strange about it? It's a HYBRID. With electronic throttle control. There is no point in starting and revving the engine in neutral to it. It is a pure waste of fuel and wear on the starter. Neutral in such a vehicle should basically disable the pedal.

      Unless of course they are leaving a traditional behavior in place so people are used to it, and as a diagnostic tool.

      --
      ERROR: SIG NOT FOUND (A)bort, (R)etry, (F)ail?:
    31. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by BluBrick · · Score: 1

      I don't know what sort of cars you're talking about, but without exception, every auto transmission I've ever driven has been dead easy to flip into neutral from drive - even under load. Sure, the engine races terribly, but if it's instant loss of power you want, you got it!

      --
      Ahh - My eye!
      The doctor said I'm not supposed to get Slashdot in it!
    32. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by steelfood · · Score: 1

      That's pretty much the mentality you have to step into a car with--that at any time, anything can go wrong. It's not a big issue if your radio presets have been reset, but if your brakes go, or there's something stuck under your break pedal, or your accelerator is stuck, you have to be prepared for these situations before even thinking about driving. The most common thing is blowing a tire. People wouldn't be so aggressive if they drove thinking they could blow a tire at any given time.

      I've had brakes fail on me twice, once the fluid lines, and the other time the pedal wouldn't go down. The solution's trivial, though slightly dangerous, and that's to hit the hand brake smoothly and forcefully.

      I've had the accelerator stuck in the down position, and I had to kick it back up from underneath while braking with the other foot.

      Mechanical, electrical, a car is still a machine, and the potential to malfunction is there regardless. A good driver is prepared for all such events from the first sound of cranking.

      --
      "If a nation expects to be ignorant and free in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be."
    33. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by shutdown+-p+now · · Score: 1

      What's strange about it? It's a HYBRID. With electronic throttle control. There is no point in starting and revving the engine in neutral to it.

      Well, judging from TFA, there is a good reason for having neutral in a car, no matter how advanced it is, after all. It's not about revving the engine; it's about knowing that no matter what happens with the engine from that point on, your car can only decelerate.

    34. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by TheLink · · Score: 1

      > I actually had thought that breaking in a regular car would disengage the engine... until I tried it.

      Apparently if you don't disengage the engine in a regular car when slowing down, you can actually save fuel, since the car can completely stop sending fuel to the engine and still have stuff running (aircon etc) due to the car momentum keeping everything turning.

      Whereas if you put the engine in neutral tried to cut the fuel, the engine dies and it's not so good that way ;).

      --
    35. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      as I recall from another article, one of the Lexus's mentioned had a kind of tiptronic system where you asked to increase, or to decrease gears, while neutral was a non-intuitive option. Further, to just 'turn the car off' you had to hold the power button for 3 full seconds (one driver was going in excess of 150mph - where 3 seconds seems like a lifetime...). Further, the brakes no don't work like they should when the engine is at full throttle: "power-assisted brakes, which operate by drawing vacuum power from the engine. But when an engine opens to full throttle, the vacuum drops, and after one or two pumps of the brake pedal the power assist feature disappears."

      http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-toyota-recall18-2009oct18,0,739395.story?page=2

    36. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by icannotthinkofaname · · Score: 5, Funny

      Did you just make a computer analogy for a car discussion?

      This thread is so backwards....

      --
      Let q be a radix > 1. I am in ur base-q, killing 10 d00ds.
    37. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by afidel · · Score: 1

      Seriously? People are freaked out by redlining their vehicle? Wow! Yeah, that would be an almost weekly occurrence for me, downshift (in an automatic!) and then stomp the gas to merge. Of course my first car was a manual so I actually understand how the whole clutch, downshift, accelerate thing works.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    38. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The driver ed 101 you took is stupid. Slam the brake. Who cares about shifter. You want to stop the car, not prevent the engine from stalling, or torque converter to heat up.

    39. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Maelwryth · · Score: 1

      "It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered."
      People panic. I was in a car where a friend had his shoelace closed in the door and panicked about not being able to reach the brake. It never crossed his mind to use his other foot, or the handbrake.

      --
      I reserve the write to mangle english.
    40. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ishobo · · Score: 1

      people who drive manuals inherently understand how the fuck a car works

      Pure conjecture. My wife and I both drive manuals here in France, yet neither one of us understand how the fuck a car works.

      I believe the parent is correct in his assumption that manual transmissions create drivers that are better equipped to handle situations on the road than the average automatic only driver.

      You and the parent can believe all you want, that does not make it true.

      Let us take that case that got the Toyota floormat recall started, the Lexus that was going 120MPH on a San Diego freeway before it crashed. The car was driven by an off-duty CHP patrol officer and vehicle safety inspector. He was highly trained in offensive and defensive driving tactics.

      --
      Slashdot - The great and glorious cluster fuck of Internet wisdom.
    41. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm very glad you're not a car engineer. Unfortunately your ilk will probably infiltrate the industry soon enough, and the government will have bought all the old cars and crushed them by then. It would be nice if the future wasn't so fucking bleak.

      It's "braking", by the way.

    42. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by macraig · · Score: 1

      Isn't the process of "learning to drive" supposed to specifically involve learning to be clear-headed and observant at all times? I pretty clearly recall that being part of the text of my instruction, though perhaps what is needed for some people is more simulated real-world catastrophes rather than mere words and admonitions? TELLING someone to think and behave a certain way tends to not work very well, unless they're exposed to vaccination-like scenarios where they can make mistakes and adapt (without the dying and maiming part).

    43. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Those that drive manuals would be more clear headed because driving is an active activity where one is engaged with the machine.

      You're not engaged with the machine unless you're manually controlling your valve timing!

    44. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by fractoid · · Score: 1

      I have to say that the decline in manual transmission driving has really diminished people's driving abilities. It's one thing that the there's an acceleration issue. It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered.

      Or even just turn the keys off.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    45. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by fractoid · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Shifting to neutral, steering, and braking in a coordinated fashion seems like a simple operation until you throw the iPod, cell phone, coffee cup, navigation unit, screaming kid, makeup, and stupidity into the equation.

      Ignoring all that shit until the current emergency situation is over should be part of every driver's education. I bet there's a significant proportion of accidents which are due to the "driver was changing the radio station while drinking coffee and masturbating" factor.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    46. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Ivan+Stepaniuk · · Score: 1

      This behavior is needed to pass the emissions tests in most Europe. Here in Spain, after your car is four years old you have to bring your car to an authorized test workshop and among other things, have your gas emissions measured every year. My father has a Prius and pressing the gas pedal while the car is in neutral is the only way for the user to accelerate the gas engine without moving the car, thus generating exhaust gases.

      --
      My other signature is a car
    47. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by fractoid · · Score: 3, Insightful

      You and the parent can believe all you want, that does not make it true.

      Let us take that case that got the Toyota floormat recall started, the Lexus that was going 120MPH on a San Diego freeway before it crashed. The car was driven by an off-duty CHP patrol officer and vehicle safety inspector. He was highly trained in offensive and defensive driving tactics.

      And yet he was unable to reach forward with his right hand and pull the floor mat off the pedal? And this highly trained officer did not consider turning off the ignition, or pulling the car out of gear? I call shenanigans.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    48. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by fractoid · · Score: 1

      This is so people can feel important when they rev their noisy engine and/or signal a street race. Unfortunately it doesn't sound like the Highlander includes the automatic throttle feature.

      Sadly true. There was a big section of an article I read on the GM Volt about how they had the ICE running at a constant speed for maximum fuel efficiency, but they were going to change it to vary RPM with the car's speed and acceleration "to make it sound more like a normal car". Gah.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    49. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by mpe · · Score: 1

      I have to say that the decline in manual transmission driving has really diminished people's driving abilities. It's one thing that the there's an acceleration issue. It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered.

      There's also a clutch which can separate the engine from the transmission :)

    50. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Mjlner · · Score: 1

      because everyone is always so clear headed when their vehicle suddenly accelerates for no clear reason,and\or has the time to calm down before they collide with something.

      If you're used to driving with a manual transmission, the instant reaction is to apply the clutch immediately in any dangerous situation. You don't think about it, you just do it. After that, switching into neutral is trivial, but you'd probably hit the brakes first, depending on the situation.

      --
      Lemon curry???
    51. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by mpe · · Score: 1

      Let us take that case that got the Toyota floormat recall started, the Lexus that was going 120MPH on a San Diego freeway before it crashed. The car was driven by an off-duty CHP patrol officer and vehicle safety inspector. He was highly trained in offensive and defensive driving tactics.

      The driver would presumably have applied the brakes as well as attempting to select neutral and turn off the engine. Yet the car managed to reach a speed well in excess of that anyone would drive. Sounds like more that just the throttle control is an issue here.

    52. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Mjlner · · Score: 1

      I've played around a bit with my Highlander Hybrid, it does some odd stuff... Put it in Park or Neutral, give it gas, and it'll fire up the gas engine and rev it a bit? Floor the brake pedal, give it some gas, and again, it'll rev the gas engine but not transmit any power to the wheels?

      That's what cars do when they're in neutral. The question mark at the end of your post indicates you have a question, but I can't find any.

      --
      Lemon curry???
    53. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well technically, if your car is on a slope and you aren't holding the break, Neutral could cause it to accelerate.

      That being said, Neutral is also the gear you usually want to be in when you have to push a car.

    54. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by sarhjinian · · Score: 1

      One, brake fade happens after multiple, repeated stops (eg, after you've been autocrossing). Just standing on the brake pedal---once and hard---will slow down any car. Most people don't or won't press the brakes hard enough. Try it, it's easy, though perhaps in a rental.

      Two, automatic transmissions do not lock you out of neutral ever. At any engine speed you can slap the shifter into neutral, though not into lower gears or reverse. This is by design, and exists for this very reason. Again, you can do this test yourself, but would be wise to do it in a rental because you'll bounce off the rev limiter repeatedly.

      --
      --srj/mmv
    55. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ishobo · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I call shenanigans.

      On what? Do have any idea the training a CHP cadet receives?

      My point, even when people have specific training, they can panic. Simply making a statement that driving a manual endows one with special abilities to control a car is ridiculous. If anybody wants to continue to hold that view, I would love to see some citations of credible studies.

      --
      Slashdot - The great and glorious cluster fuck of Internet wisdom.
    56. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Eivind · · Score: 1

      Even if they don't disengage the engine, what's your number one instinct if your car goes fast, and you want it to go slow and/or stop ?

      That's right: brake.

      Which will infact work, cars tend to have brakes that are MUCH stronger than the engines, thus braking will generally stop a car, even if it's stuck at full throttle.

    57. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by drtsystems · · Score: 1

      Whether or not a manual driver understands the car, in this specific instance, a manual driver will be much better equipped. First instinct in a manual when something isn't right is to step on the clutch. Well maybe slightly behind hitting the brakes. Hitting the clutch on a car with a stuck throttle will effectively put the car in neutral, making any stuck throttle issues irrelevant.

    58. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by GAB_cyclist · · Score: 2, Informative

      In any car, the brakes must be strong enough to counter the engine, otherwise they are not street legal. (look up 'car mechanics', you might learn something). Better to overheat your brakes than to crash.

    59. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by drtsystems · · Score: 1

      Plus, I believe by law, every car you don't even need to press in the "switch gears button" or pull the leaver forward or whatever to switch to neutral. Simply push the gearshift leaver

    60. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Eivind · · Score: 1

      It will. But it won't kill you. It probably won't even destroy the engine, not immediately anyway.

      It shouldn't take you a lot of seconds to ponder your way from "engine is being crazy" and to "now that I'm stopped anyway, let's turn it OFF"

    61. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by GAB_cyclist · · Score: 1

      Just to mention. I used to be a jet mechanic. At 100% throttle the tires of an F-16 have some problems but the brakes will hold.

    62. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Eivind · · Score: 1

      Yes. And that's one of the 2 good reasons for -not- disengaging it.

      If you disengage the engine, but keep it running, it's going to consume fuel for idling. Not a lot mind you, but more than zero. (my toyota drinks 1l/hour for idling) In contrast, whenever the rpm is above idle, and the throttle is released, consumption is literally -zero-.

      The other reason is that the engine helps braking, particularily at high rpms. This saves brake-pad-wear and is *required* when driving long steep declines. You switch the car into a lower gear, and let the engine do most of the braking, adding just the last tiny bit with the brake-pedal.

      If the engine disengaged, you'd have to brake a lot MORE, aside from the added wear, that's potentially dangerous, because the brakes could run so hot their efficiency decline severly.

    63. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by fractoid · · Score: 1

      If anybody wants to continue to hold that view, I would love to see some citations of credible studies.

      I don't have any idea what training he received but you claimed he was "highly trained in offensive and defensive driving tactics". I stand by my statement that anyone aspiring to the level of "highly trained" should know several ways to deal with a stuck accelerator, especially if (as claimed by Toyota) it was simply being held down by a floor mat.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    64. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      .... hmmm perhaps not on these models, but ... many cars that I've driven, have a shift lockout that would remove the drivers ability to move the shifter while under load, and thus remove the ability to put the car in nuetral... as a side note; wasn't Toyota the "model" that Obama said America should strive after ? ... maybe he's wrong, maybe he's right... but, I do see one thing here; GM, for example, understands that removing such control from the driver can be fatal and thus has refrained from doing it for many decades now.

    65. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Meanwhile, aim for something soft without people in it.

      I can't help, but I read this as

      Meanwhile, aim for something with soft people in it.

    66. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      >I actually had thought that breaking in a regular car would disengage the engine... until I tried it.

      WTF!? How are your allowed to drive?

      clutch = disengage the engine

      break = enable the break pads

      when you break you don't always want to disengage the engine because you get something called engine breaking. Seriously I'm not a car nut, I rarely drive (e.g not driven over a year) but I at least now the basics!

    67. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ishobo · · Score: 0, Flamebait

      I don't have any idea what training he received but you claimed he was "highly trained in offensive and defensive driving tactics"

      You think that CHP officers are handed a gun, badge, and the keys to their car after they pass the physical? Are you that stupid? Let us see how well you can handle a RWD car with the rear tires bald and over inflated on a special smooth surface circular course that has been made slick by water.

      especially if (as claimed by Toyota) it was simply being held down by a floor mat.

      Do you see it yet? Work that grey matter a littler harder. Do you want a hint? Maybe he panicked, especially with passengers in the car, or it is more than a floormat issue. The passenger that called 911 from the backseat of this Lexis in question stated that the accerlator was stuck and the brakes failed.

      --
      Slashdot - The great and glorious cluster fuck of Internet wisdom.
    68. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Eivind · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Even if you don't consciously "understand" it, you do habitually clutch when braking to a stop. If you didn't, the engine would go out at every red-light.

      It's not a stretch to imagine that if the engine got stuck at full throttle, you'd also brake-and-clutch, which happens to be the right thing to do anyway, whether you understand it or not.

    69. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by j_sp_r · · Score: 1

      Just press the clutch and brake. Like in most cases when you want to slow down (OK, normally you will release gas first and brake till the engine almost stalls so you have less wear on your break pads, but your foot will be very near a clutch anyway).

    70. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by addsalt · · Score: 0

      Floor the brake pedal, give it some gas, and again, it'll rev the gas engine but not transmit any power to the wheels?

      that's the first time I've ever heard of someone trying to do a burnout in a Prius!

    71. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      being carful not to lock the steering wheel. I did that once but was lucky.

    72. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by CaptnMArk · · Score: 1

      Try first braking without neutral (it should stop the engine).
      Otherwise, the engine could be ruined if it can't be stopped.

    73. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      'Both pedals in" several times a year? How the hell fast do you drive?

      I have probably had to do that twice in my life, and I'm probably pushing a million miles over 30 years, virtually all in manuals. And I'm not known for paying much heed to speed limits myself!

    74. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Part of getting a car to stop involves making it stop accelerating, wouldn't you say? So that thing that is linking the out-of-control engine to the continued forward motion of the vehicle should probably be disengaged, right?

    75. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by qc_dk · · Score: 1

      Wouldn't the whole point of his super advanced training be that he wouldn't panic? I can understand a soccermom panicking, but this allegedly highly skilled driver with many hours of experience not so much.

      I have done emergency and ice driving training, it is a requirement to get a driver's licence here in Denmark. Let me tell you the very first rule of emergency driving taught here after don't panic: Cut the power! Stomp on the clutch, rip the car out of gear. The only time you would need the power is if you are in a rear wheel skid with a front or 4 wheel driven car and in those cases you need the time to align the front wheels with the direction the car is travelling so you can get traction on the front wheels before gently applying power to drag you out of the slide.

      It's not that people who drive a stick shift are better drivers or more aware of how the car works, but that their standard behaviour is beneficial. Whenever I break I will disengage the clutch, thereby also removing the engine power from the wheels. There is no reason for me to fight the power of the engine also. It's a reflex for me now. If I'm in an automatic my left foot will stomp on the floor where the clutch pedal should have been and I will put the car in neutral if I'm suprised and need to do a quick brake.

    76. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by pjt33 · · Score: 1

      It is a bit of a stretch. You use the clutch to change gears or to stop, not every time you brake. It might be less of a stretch to suppose that some half-remembered mention of braking with the gears on a steep hill would float to the surface.

    77. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by RzUpAnmsCwrds · · Score: 1

      If that's true for N, I smell a lawsuit. Neutral had always meant "physically disconnect engine from wheels". Are you absolutely sure you're correct? I wouldn't ever drive a car in which this isn't true.

      This is impossible in a Toyota hybrid, because the gears are never 'shifted' and always remain in the same mechanical configuration.

      HOWEVER, it takes active computer control to actually deliver power. With both motors disconnected, the gears are free to spin and the engine cannot deliver power even if it were running.

    78. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by madbavarian · · Score: 1

      I owned a GM car that was prone to a stuck throttle at wide-open-throttle. The damn throttle-lever was never tightened at the factory and the lever would get stuck over the top of some parts hanging on the side of the carb. The factory trained monkeys they have doing warranty repairs never found the problem. It only got fixed when I finally decided to have a look myself.

      The stuck throttle was pretty exciting. There is nothing like accelerating down city streets watching the slow traffic in front of you getting larger in your windshield. I can see why some people might panic. There is a part of you that just screams NOOOOOOO! On the other hand there is hopefully also the part of you that says, time to turn off the ignition, which is what I did.

      The inclination to anyone that is used to driving a stick and likes their engine is to never hit the clutch when the engine is at WOT. It will almost certainly over-rev and destroy itself. I just turned the ignition off, coasted to a stop and then waited for my blood pressure to return to normal.

      I find these claims of failed brakes etc very hard to take. Just how is the brake supposed to fail? The brakes are also much stronger than the engine, so would always win a tug of war. Which production car can do 0-60 faster than it can do 60-0?

    79. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Brakes. Use them.

    80. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by tkrotchko · · Score: 1

      I agree with the overall assessment that people who drive manual transmissions are overall better drivers.

      In fact, as I watch people struggle with basic things like steering and braking on a daily basis, I'm convinced that regardless of what your daily driver will be, you should be required to pass your driver's test in a manual transmission. In a way, it's sort of like the requirement to pass morse code for ham radio operators; it's less about knowing morse code than it is about showing a commitment to learning your craft better.

      --
      You were mistaken. Which is odd, since memory shouldn't be a problem for you
    81. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by houghi · · Score: 1

      Full ack. When I am driving down a hill and I go faster then what I would like to do, I automatically shift down, so I break on the engine. So I have already been in situations where the things as described happend.

      --
      Don't fight for your country, if your country does not fight for you.
    82. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      being calm and clear headed is part of driving. if someone can't do this during an unexpected event, they should not be driving. i think people should get qual'd like for aircraft. they need to pass knowledge and reflex tests. you statement is the same as saying, yeah, because everyone is so clear headed when someone pulls out in front of them or walks out from behind a parked car for no reason and has time to slow down.

      welcome to driving. if a car suddenly accelerates, the driver damn well better be able to have enough brain cells to realize they need to put the car in neutral. i had this happen to an old trans am when a stick got wedged into the throttle body. i put it in neutral, turned the key off, then forward so i could steer it safely off the road. it also happened with a friends old 69 chevy c-10. his throttle spring broke and it got stuck wide open. he also put it in neutral and shut the vehicle down. time to rely on brains and skill. if these aren't present, time to relinquish you keys. same goes for if you can't pass a basic reflex test. drivers licenses are given out far too easily.

    83. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by pkinetics · · Score: 1

      I call BS. Plain and simple: No one knows what they will do unless they have trained for that situation. That's why drivers need to spend more time on the road learning all the crap that can go wrong. The steps a driver will go through to remedy the situation is over generalized. The assumption is that the vehicle suddenly accelerates, so the driver will throw the vehicle in neutral. That is wrong. The real thing a driver will do is take their foot off the accelerator, to reduce pressure to confirm that the vehicle is still accelerating on its own violation. That also assumes they haven't left it on cruise control. Come to think of it, I wonder if the cruise control is the issue. If the vehicle is still accelerating, they are more than likely going to hit the accelerator and then pull foot off, to test if it is stuck. If it becomes more stuck, then we know why the vehicles are suddenly accelerating to over 100+ mph. After that, then it depends on how rational the person is, whether they will think to throw the vehicle in neutral, or shut off the vehicle. If the average human response time is about 2 seconds, you'll be lucky if you haven't buried your vehicle into the back end of another vehicle, while you work through how to stop the situation. Call me silly, but I'm pretty certain I didn't spend a lot of time practicing this scenario when I was learning to drive. And I'll wager even people learning to drive a manual don't practice this at all. Assuming how people will assume responses will be, is worse than making an a$$ out of u and me. Its just... overassumptious. =)

    84. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by X0563511 · · Score: 1

      Which is 100% the driver's fault.

      I've had something... eh "similar" happen to me. The soda in my hand at the time? Lets just say I had to spend some time cleaning the car after that.

      If the drink/phone/whatever in your hand is of a higher priority than the vehicle, FUCK YOU and get off the road!

      --
      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
    85. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by dargaud · · Score: 1
      I absolutely agree with you that a "highly trained driver" who can't stop his car is either a moron or someone trying to cash in big on insurance.

      I've had a stuck accelerator once while driving a company van. After a brief surprise I placed my foot on the side of the pedal and pulled; if it hadn't worked I would have shifted to neutral or turned off the ignition or stepped lightly on the brakes to see if I could slow down enough to stall the engine.

      There have been a few case a people calling 911 while in this situation, including one in France who drove for 200 fucking km before running out of gas. They should be thrown in jail, no questions asked, even if the car is faulty. Way to joyride.

      I've seen old or incompetent drivers confuse the accelerator for the brakes a few times. Now they can claim it's 'the electronics'.

      --
      Non-Linux Penguins ?
    86. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Froggie · · Score: 1

      Turning the key is another fine solution. In fact, braking is the only one that really won't work...

    87. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by StuckInSyrup · · Score: 1

      I actually had thought that breaking in a regular car would disengage the engine... until I tried it.

      Not a good idea. Disengaging the engine means lower control over the car, as the engine in lower gear actually helps you with braking. The injection system cuts the fuel flow, the engine is decompressing warm air, which slows the car down. Very convenient when going downhill. With the engine disengaged, the only thing that's slowing the car down are the brakes. Leaving the gear in saves fuel, brakes and the engine health as well. Additionally, in critical situations you can hit the gas pedal and accelerate immediately.

      --
      Ni.
    88. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by TeethWhitener · · Score: 1

      Essentially anyone who has driven manual has practiced the solution to this problem. Anyone in a automatic has not. In a automatic cars you can just hit the breaks and forget about what that meant the car had to do.

      First off, I think you're conflating manual brakes and manual transmission. Second, essentially anyone who has piloted a horse-driven carriage has practiced the solution to 'my horse crapped in the street' several times a year. Anyone in a horseless carriage has not.

      Probably what you meant to say is that manual transmission drivers are better equipped to handle situations pertaining to manual transmissions. In which case I'd wholeheartedly agree with you. But in situations that occur in generic 'transmission-blind' driving, I'd be hard-pressed to buy your argument. In fact, one could--I'm not saying I will, but one could--argue that this kind of overconfidence in manual drivers leads them into more dangerous situations.

    89. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by DrainBoy · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Seeing as you're sitting calmly at a computer and you still didn't consider turning the damn engine off as a possibility before aiming for something to crash into, it kind of begs the question as to why you think people panicking in a runaway car at 100 mph would be more cogent than they were. I once had my car start to accelerate without my foot on the pedal (due to a build up of grease around the wire next to the engine), where I tried clearing the problem by hitting the accelerator a few times (which made it much worse), before going out of gear (hitting about 7000 revs and heading towards damaging the engine), then finally resolving it by turning the engine off and coasting to a stop without power steering. Believe me, you panic like f*ck and if I hadn't been on a quiet, straight country road I could have been in a heap of trouble. Still, having enough time to call the police, I agree they weren't the smartest tools in the box.

    90. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Predius · · Score: 1

      Ok, that explains it then. I couldn't come up with a reason for that behavior, in my mind, the ECU knows it's in neutral or full brake, so why waste the gas, now I know.

    91. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Rick17JJ · · Score: 1

      Owners of Toyota vehicles affected by that problem, should regularly remind themselves that they have the option of putting the vehicle in neutral. They should mentally rehearse that option until they are confident that they will not forget.

      My pick-up truck has a 5-speed stick shift. So I would have the option of either pushing in the clutch or putting the gear shift lever in neutral.

      I learned to drive back in about 1969 or 1970. With cars back then, the key could be removed from the ignition without causing the steering wheel to lock-up, or having to put an automatic transmission in park first. When learning to drive back then, I was told to remove the key if the throttle ever stuck. Just now, it has finally occurred to me that in a modern car or truck, removing the key would cause the steering wheel to lock up and cause the vehicle to crash. Of course, with an automatic, it would not even be possible to remove the key, without putting it in park first.

      My pick-up truck once had a hidden anti-theft kill switch under the dash. For me that would have also been a good option.

    92. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by darthflo · · Score: 1

      Wtf?

      Driving a a stick you won't be able to get the vehicle rolling if you can't use both feet (left goes onto clutch, right onto break, turn engine on, left slowly releases while right moves to accelerator). After that, your setup is guaranteed to be functional as you won't have to move your left foot from the clutch ever again (i.e. right foot is for gas and brakes, left only for the clutch). An exception exists for race drivers who need to downshift, brake and rev up into turns, but they'll just turn the right foot by some 90 degrees, so even then they won't have to move it.
      In an automatic transmission, it's even simpler: your left foot does nothing, ever. The right foot takes care of both pedals -- you'll never need to use both at the same time, so don't.

    93. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Predius · · Score: 1

      Except that with a Toyota style 'HSD' hybrid, there is no neutral, there is only the ECU being nice and not powering the two electric motors in the planetary gear setup to force motion. If the ECU isn't cooperating, shifting to 'N' isn't going to do anything to alter the car's behavior.

    94. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Rick17JJ · · Score: 1

      P.S. it just occurred to me that with most vehicles, I would not actually need to remove the key, I could probably just move the key to a different position.

      I should check sometime, to see if that would actually work when my truck is moving slowly. Of course, just pushing in my clutch would would be faster and easier.

    95. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by hapalibashi · · Score: 1

      In 2005 there was a chap in Renault Megane who claimed cruise control would not disengage. He was in France on the Autoroute, there are toll gates. He phoned up the emergency services and they cleared the toll areas and raised the barrier so he could go through. In this case turning the key wouldn't work, the ignition is a electronic card. Several cars suffered the same problem. Renault denied saying it was a result of drivers pressing the clutch instead of the brake!

    96. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well if your not that clear headed, get off the fucking road! Don't drive if your not prepared for any outcome.

      Its irrelevant tosspot excuses like that dilute our worlds intellect.

    97. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by zmollusc · · Score: 1

      I get freaked out by automatic transmissions requiring the engine to rev. It always seems to be bizarre to be in a 6.5 litre V8 car and have to rev up the engine just to manouver into a parking space when you can do it with clutch and tickover in a clapped out 1100cc ford.
      Back to the subject of overcoming failures, motorcycles are good practice for this as you often have to get home when some of the controls have been wiped out due to falling off.

      --
      They whose government reduces their essential liberties for temporary security, receive neither liberty nor security.
    98. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Pinky's+Brain · · Score: 1

      If you drive a manual you are simply used to taking the power off frequently while driving ... making it more likely to do this in a stressful situation too.

    99. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by awol · · Score: 1

      I actually had this experience in my new Mazda2. It was quite scary. I was going up a steep hill and the engine revved a little higher than normal, I did a bit of gear changing (it is an auto) and the revving continued, as I pulled up to the queue of traffic at the lights at the top of the hill (with the massive truck behind me!). It was all getting out of control. What was weird was that the throttle was still responsive, depress it, the engine revved up, back off it de-revved, but back to well above idle.

      I too was worried about the engine electronics, until I checked the floor mat and found it had slid up over the base of the accellerator, pulled the mat back and all was ok. All in all probably about a minute but very disturbing at the time. I can totally see the source of an accident in such an event. It really felt like an electronic issue at the time, until I realised what it actually was.

      --
      "The first thing to do when you find yourself in a hole is stop digging."
    100. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Jaysyn · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the heads up. I'll not be getting any car with a "Synergy Drive" until that is fixed.

      --
      There is a war going on for your mind.
    101. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The officer couldn't turn off the car because it was key-less push-button-start car. Thats what I saw on the news anyway.

    102. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by realinvalidname · · Score: 1

      I had the exact same thing happen back in like '84 or '85, when I was 17 and driving my parents' Mercury Cougar. While going down a four-lane street at about 30 MPH, the accelerator just floored itself. I jammed on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car ahead of me, and then thought to throw it in neutral.

      That said, I did learn on stick. Doesn't prove your statement, but it's anecdotal evidence in support.

      Ford insisted the problem was with floor mats, just as Toyota does in this article.

    103. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The behaviour you describe with Park and Neutral is not at all strange: it is meant for driving away when you are parked on a slope. In that case, the engine needs the extra revs to keep you from rolling back or stalling the engine. Many people do the same with manuals.

    104. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by slonik · · Score: 1

      > Seeing as you're sitting calmly at a computer and you still
      > didn't consider turning the damn engine off...

      Never ever even think of turning engine off while driving in a modern car. If you do you will lose most of your car controls like power steering, power breaks, etc.

    105. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by wtansill · · Score: 1

      The other thing to consider is that no car ever made has enough engine power to overcome the brakes. Even if you don't put the transmission in Neutral, you should be able to stop the car barring massively failed brakes.

      Don't believe me? Go start your car. Step on the brakes and hold them, and then put the transmission in gear. No matter how much you rev the engine, the car won't move other than torquing over a bit. The brakes are designed specifically to overcome the engine.

      --
      The contest for ages has been to rescue liberty from the grasp of executive power. -- Daniel Webster
    106. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by fgouget · · Score: 1

      Seeing as you're sitting calmly at a computer and you still didn't consider turning the damn engine off as a possibility

      As soon as you turn of the engine you start losing break assist which is not a good thing when you're going too fast. So the GP got the order right. Shutting the engine off should really be a last resort.

    107. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by DrainBoy · · Score: 1

      I really did mean consider turning the engine of as a possibility before aiming for something to crash into. i.e. after going into neutral, trying the brakes etc. But before ringing the police ;) Also, you could turn the engine off and on again. Wouldn't have helped me, but then my car didn't even know what a computer was. A quick reboot of the car's computers might have sorted it.

    108. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I managed it. Over-filled my manual diesel with engine oil. It popped a seal in the fast lane and started to pull away on it's own. I bumped it out of gear, the engine dived into the red but I got off the highway before it caught fire.

      In 15 seconds and I was out and running the opposite direction like a bagger with his ass on fire.

    109. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I agree. I grew up driving VW bugs. I had this ratty old '71 el camino and I was speeding down the highway when the carb stuck open and was accelerating out of control. First thing I did was stick it in neutral and coast off the next ramp. I even killed the engine so I wouldn't blow it up.

      On another occasion, I had a ratty old floormat stick the accelerator and I did the same thing. First thing I did when I stopped was toss that crappy ass floormat out the window so that would never happen again.

      Man, that was the best vehicle I ever owned. As for the OP, sure, it could be floor mats but my money would be on the computer. Oh yeah, I've been programming since, oh, '74 and I trust computers less than most of you.

    110. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by BOFslime · · Score: 1

      Just adding to this, as I've thought this for years!

      Manual drivers also are much more well aware of their speeds, they understand, road speed, transmission speed and motor/flywheel speed or RPM. Today's auto drivers more so don't even care, there's no ambition to learn, they just want to get from A to B.

      On the other topic, Both my car and my truck have throttle by wire, but they are tuned VASTLY different from each other. The car still has all the fail safes, etc, and can 'fuel' cut more safely at the rev limiter, and 'boost' cut safely if over boosted, but its incredibly responsive (sports car) you put your foot down, and it opens the throttle body. My truck however, I could floor it on the high way and not always get WOT in return. Sadly in the truck the programmers thought it better to not provide responsiveness but instead rate fuel economy and emissions over my inputs. I just don't understand why I would need fuel economy when I'm attempting to go WOT, I fully understand what that means in terms of fuel consumption. Then again, I'm a driver, and not a sheep.

    111. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      When my brakes failed while speeding down a very steep into a busy intersection I had did not even think twice - I used the emergency brake. Not the best way to drive but it got me home and later the shop to get the brakes fixed.

      I had even encountered my steering shaft linkage breaking - no steering at all!!!! That was fun as it happened on the highway. That goodness for friends and the muscle power to move a car that you can not steer off the highway.

    112. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by icebrain · · Score: 1

      TELLING someone to think and behave a certain way tends to not work very well, unless they're exposed to vaccination-like scenarios where they can make mistakes and adapt (without the dying and maiming part).

      Too many people forget this part.

      It's easy to sit there in the comfort of your computer chair and talk about how one should react to various emergencies. It's easy to sit there and say "well, this is what you should do, it's only four steps, how hard can it be?" But unless you sit there, and practice it over, and over, and over again, it's all just theory.

      Take a look at how the professionals do it. Airline pilots, for example, don't just get a basic "here's how this airplane works, now go fly it" kind of training. First, they spend a couple of weeks of book learning and going over normal operation of the airplane. Then, they spend quite a bit of time in simulators where the instructors throw every problem they can think of at them, usually several at once, in bad weather. A sim session might have an engine failure on takeoff, followed by an electrical fault, loss of primary hydraulics, and instrumentation failure. Oh, and a simulated medical emergency. And it's dark, with thunderstorms and windshear on the approach. The crews get used to handling such problems and will rehearse the actions to deal with them. Even low-time private pilots get put through engine failure drills on a regular basis.

      Astronauts do the same thing, though they spend even more time in simulators. Go read the stories about some of the sim sessions for Apollo and Shuttle training. See how many times the crews simulated aborts, malfunctions, and all that. See how many times they "died" in the process. Very, very interesting.

      Look at a special-ops or SWAT team. They spend hours practicing with their weapons and dealing with simulated malfunctions like jams and misfires so that their response is instinctual. You don't want to be sitting there fiddling around trying to figure out why your gun didn't go bang when rounds are flying at you--much better to run through the clearing drill real quick, and if that doesn't work, you transition to a backup.

      The average person doesn't get this kind of training when getting a driver's license, or even in driver's ed. Mechanical failures like a stuck gas pedal or loss of brakes are extremely rare in modern cars; it's quite possible to drive for years and never experience a mechanical problem with the car. Even if they've been told what to do in a classroom setting, the lesson doesn't really kick in until they've handled it in a car under something approximating real-world conditions. And if you take someone, even someone with a decent understanding of how a car works and several years of driving under their belt, and throw a sudden problem like a stuck wide-open throttle at them, they're most likely going to get a massive adrenaline dump and freak out for at least a second or two until the rational part of the brain kicks back in. And even then, any response isn't "instinctual"--it is learned, whether by reasoning or through practice.

      --
      The meek may inherit the earth, but the strong shall take the stars.
    113. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maxume · · Score: 1

      It had better. Generally, automakers take failing safe pretty seriously for electronic systems, and government safety bodies take it even more seriously, so I wouldn't fret too much.

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    114. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Enzo1977 · · Score: 1

      I will speak from first hand experience. I was driving a 1988 Ford Ranger. The heavy duty floor mat under my feet jammed up around the accelerator, and the truck began to accelerate out of control. I pounded my foot down on the brake to no avail as the torque was far too great.

      I was able to maintain a cool enough head to think through the process of putting the vehicle into neutral, and to then turn off the engine. This process is not rocket science. What boggles my mind even more so are the people who opt to calling 911 before trying to engage a car into neutral or turn off the ignition.

      --
      I hate all sigs, even this one.
    115. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Fahrvergnuugen · · Score: 4, Insightful

      In the officer's defense, the car he was driving had a push button starter instead of an old fashioned key switch. To turn the car off, you have to hold the button down for 3 seconds. The car was a loaner, so he was not familiar with it. (I wouldn't have been either)

      In my eye's, Toyota's engineers built a death trap. Why didn't the ECU cut throttle when it detected the brake switch engaged? In a VW/Audi, the ECU will cut throttle if you hold down both the brake and the gas for several seconds (why on earth would any DBW system NOT do this?).

      The only thing I don't understand, is why didn't he shift into neutral...

      --
      Kiteboarding Gear Mention slashdot and get 10% off!
    116. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maxume · · Score: 1

      In a car with an automatic transmission, there is an interlock between the shift mechanism and ignition to prevent you from locking the steering when the vehicle is not in park.

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    117. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Fahrvergnuugen · · Score: 1

      And yet the brakes on this loaner toyota could not stop the vehicle with the throttle stuck open.

      Braking systems have this thing called a brake booster. When the throttle plate isn't fully opened, the engine creates vacuum. The vacuum pressure is supplied to the brake booster, which has a diaphram inside. When vacuum is present, the booster assists the brake pedal making it easier to depress.

      When the car is at WOT (wide open throttle), there is no vacuum and therefore no brake assist. On a turbo charged car, there is positive pressure at WOT (though there should be a check valve in the vacuum line). If you put positive pressure in the brake booster, you get the opposite effect, and you're not going to stop the car.

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      Kiteboarding Gear Mention slashdot and get 10% off!
    118. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maxume · · Score: 1

      Yeah, it sounds like his friend shouldn't have been driving, I specifically remember being instructed to operate the gas and brake with only my right foot.

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    119. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by thickdiick · · Score: 1

      Exactly. When you fly an airplane, you have a checklist for the most common types of emergencies, and you must have it memorized!! To have no such discipline while operating a motor vehicle is pure folly.

    120. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Dare+nMc · · Score: 1

      Neutral had always meant "physically disconnect engine from wheels"

      http://eahart.com/prius/psd/
      So it is impossible to "disconnect" the engine from the wheels of the Toyota Hybrids, it is a direct gear to gear connection between the engine and wheel. But it takes the electric motor making some torque to make the car move, not sure if you would call that physically disconnected?

    121. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by kick6 · · Score: 1

      I have to say that the decline in manual transmission driving has really diminished people's driving abilities. It's one thing that the there's an acceleration issue. It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered.

      Or turn the car off entirely. I mean COME ON people on ABC News: It is NOT the car's fault that you're a moron that does not know how to properly operate a motor vehicle in a panic situation. If you expect someone/something to do all of the thinking for you in an emergency..................ride the bus!

    122. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by duh_lime · · Score: 1

      Neutral will be such a lame concept in the future: Who needs a transmission when you can have direct drive? Then what? Let's just call it "Fly-By-Windows". That's scary!

    123. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by RivieraKid · · Score: 1

      Not entirely true.

      If you're idling, in drive, with no brakes, then you'll creep forward - but that's only because with no clutch to speak of that you have direct control over, once in gear, guess what? You're in gear! So depending on the power and torque of the engine, the idle revs are enough to move the car. That's also the reason why, if you're in stationary traffic, on a slight uphill incline, you can take your foot off the brake and accelerate without rolling backwards. Not because the car is braking for you, it's because the engine is giving just enough power to hold you.

      It also means you can roll forward in very slow traffic without wasting fuel or friction material on your brakes.

      If you don't want to move, disengage the freakin gearbox/transmission. It's not rocket science. Put the thing in park if you want to remain stationary. Better yet, put the handbrake on too. For what it's worth, the handbrake is NOT designed to slow you or stop you if you're moving, it's designed to hold you reasonably stationary when you stop, though some may be better at others when it comes to stopping a moving vehicle.

      --
      "Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves
    124. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by RivieraKid · · Score: 1

      The wheel should only lock if you remove the keys, not just turn the engine off but leave the keys in the ignition.

      --
      "Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves
    125. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by lowrydr310 · · Score: 4, Interesting
      There's more to the story than what you see in the slashdot summary - don't make any uninformed assumptions.

      The guy apparently did try pulling the car out of gear and into neutral, but it didn't do anything (many auto transmissions are electronically controlled and have failsafe mechanisms to prevent desctruction). He also tried shutting off the ignition - but this vehicle like many other fancy new vehicles doesn't have a key ignition. It's a button, and when pressed while driving it won't turn the engine off. Buried in the owners manual is a single sentence that essentially says that in order to turn the engine off while driving, you have to hold the button down for three seconds.

      Now I've never gone 120MPH on a congested roadway, but I could only guess that when you're trying to avoid hitting anything, it's not a simple task to 'reach down and pull the floor mat off the pedal'

      Although recently I had the accelerator pedal stick to the floor on a 2009 F-350 diesel. It happened as I was accelerating from a complete stop. I immediately pressed the brake to the floor which prevented me from shortening the wheelbase of the Civic in front of me, but with 650 lb-ft of torque it was still accelerating. I was able to lift the accelerator with my foot and bring it back up.

    126. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by oh-dark-thirty · · Score: 1

      Even in the case of an auto trans., it's a .5 second operation to move the shift lever one notch forward to "N". Even if you overshot and dropped it into reverse or park, worst case would be a blown trans as opposed to death. There's also an ignition switch inches from your hand that could be turned one click to avert tragedy.

    127. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by 1800maxim · · Score: 1

      "Never ever even think of turning engine off in a modern car..."? Are you for real? That's the most moronic statement I read as it pertains to the discussion here.

      Because it's much better to crash into something at 120 mph with the engine ON instead of crashing into something at 60 or 80 mph with engine OFF? Wow!

      You turn the engine off and you can still coast in a more or less straight line, you can even make turns. You are one of those people who think that you lose ALL control of the car once the engine is turned off. That's not the case at all, and in fact, while the car is rolling, it's much easier to steer it without power assist than if it were stationary. You can also brake, though not as quickly.

    128. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by iamhigh · · Score: 1

      GP is right, if you can't handle this situation, you shouldn't be driving. You are correct that even if you overshoot... some automatics have a safety check that won't let the tranny go into reverse if you are going over a certain speed forward.

      --
      No comprende? Let me type that a little slower for you...
    129. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by 1800maxim · · Score: 1

      It's one thing to run mentally through the steps after the media has been talking about deaths and runaway cars, and it's quite another not to even think of such a scenario beforehand.

      Moreover, all you need is a split second loss of control and you can lose your life. For you to mentally realize what's happening, then to put the car into neutral and then stop will take a few seconds.

      In Toronto we just had a death (yesterday November 3) in a Toyota Camry. The person was stopped at the lights, waiting for the signal to make a left turn. Suddenly accelerated onto the intersection. In a case like this, you don't have any time at all to react. By the time you do, you can be in a serious accident.

    130. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've actually had two instances where my vehicle was "moving forward involuntarily".

      In the first case, I was in a 1986 Chevy Cavalier with an automatic transmission. It was a very cold winter morning in Upstate New York and I had just pulled out of my driveway and was accelerating towards an intersection with a green light. The light turned yellow and I released the accelerator only to find that the car was still lurching forward (towards the yellow, soon to be red, light). I applied the brakes, which were helpful but not enough to stop the vehicle in time, and so I INSTINCTIVELY put the transmission in neutral. The engine was racing now, but I had stopped (thankfully). I then noticed that the pedal had gotten stuck behind a fold in the floor mat. Recall that it was winter; the floor mat was stiff due to the slush, making for a nice little peak behind which the pedal had snapped in place. Ever since then, I've been very cautious about floor mats on the drivers side in proximity to the gas pedal. I've noticed on the past several vehicles that I've owned that the drivers-side floor mats all have hooks that keep them from sliding forward, possibly to keep exactly this kind of thing from happening? Hard to tell, I don't design automobiles.

      In the second case, I was driving a 1983 Chevy S-10 with a manual transmission. This time it was a summer afternoon during rush hour. I was approaching an intersection to make a left turn and had depressed the clutch and brake pedals to come to a stop (I had already downshifted into second gear at this point). There was a muffled bang and the truck lurched forward toward the car that had stopped in front of me. I had to think faster in this situation than the one above and IMMEDIATELY yanked the transmission into neutral (anyone noticing a trend here?) After I stopped the vehicle I figured out that the clutch cable had snapped. At that point, I couldn't get the vehicle into gear (I didn't want to force it, these were my salad days and I wasn't relishing an expensive transmission repair) and had to push it out of the intersection and get it towed.

      Ok, so now that the stories have been told it's time to wrap up with a moral. As the driver of a vehicle it is YOUR responsibility to keep it under control (I have another story where a judge told me this in no uncertain terms). Know your vehicle, understand what you need to do when things go wrong, and how to execute those operations in a way that keeps everyone in and around your vehicle safe. If you can't (or worse, won't) do that, stick with public transportation.

    131. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have to say that the decline in manual transmission driving has really diminished people's driving abilities. It's one thing that the there's an acceleration issue. It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered.

      I totally agree with this statement. Recently, I switched to a manual transmission and you are forced to pay attention to what the car is doing. You monitor speed, whats it front of you (to anticipate if you have to change gears) and engine revs. You also don't have the luxury of texting, talking on the phone, eating breakfast, etc....

      Automatic cars with luxuries like cruise control and everything else that takes the *driving* out of driving enables a culture of carelessness on the road. When I screw up, my car immediately lets me know about it either by a high revving engine or a nice attention getting "gear grinding" which snaps you to attention. Newer cars are more like sitting on a couch and watching tv than actual driving. I feel this encourages people to think less about that 2-3 thousand pound rocket they are riding in than they should.

    132. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      Or if you want to keep the engine, shut off the ignition, then turn it back on without engaging the starter (so you can steer).

      We were taught things like this in driver training.

    133. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by rhsanborn · · Score: 2, Informative

      There is also the danger of accidentally engaging the steering lock which is a dangerous prospect when the car is traveling at speed. I have experience with this while driving an old VW prone to stalling. If you turned the car off and overshot off you could easily put the steering lock on. I made the mistake once, and after that always allowed the car to stop before trying to restart.

    134. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      Offensive and defensive driving training, sure. But does anyone teach them the basics, like what to do when your throttle sticks? My driver training instructor way back in high school did, and made me practice.

      Note, I'm not necessarily agreeing with the manual-vs.-automatic argument. I've seen lots of manual transmission drivers do dumb stuff because they didn't want to put in the clutch. Naw, that guy will start moving again before we get too close to him....

    135. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Cro+Magnon · · Score: 1

      In the officer's defense, the car he was driving had a push button starter instead of an old fashioned key switch. To turn the car off, you have to hold the button down for 3 seconds. The car was a loaner, so he was not familiar with it. (I wouldn't have been either)

      I never heard of that in a car, but such things are routine if my Windows-based PC locks up. Ugh, now I'm using computer analogies in a CAR thread!

      --
      Slow down, cowboy! It has been 4 hours since you last posted. You must wait another few hours.
    136. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      Even so, it's a second control pathway that would have to fail. If it DOES fail, at the same time that the throttle control fails, you can always switch off the ignition.

    137. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by avjt · · Score: 1

      Well yes! I drive a manual (a manual transmission is the rule rather than the exception here in India). If my car did something like this, my instinct would be to hit the CLUTCH!

    138. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Abcd1234 · · Score: 1

      It is a bit of a stretch. You use the clutch to change gears or to stop, not every time you brake.

      Oh please, now you're just being an idiot. If the throttle on my manual suddenly got stuck open, you can be damned sure I'd be jamming on the clutch and break because, guess, what? I'm trying to stop the car.

    139. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Cro+Magnon · · Score: 1

      Seriously, if my car were to accelerate without warning, the first thing I would do would be to push down the clutch. The second would be to apply the brake. And if that didn't work, I would pull the emergency brake. Meanwhile, aim for something soft without people in it.

      I don't have a clutch, you insensitive clod!

      Once, when I had been using the Cruise Control, I had to slow down briefly, and then hit the "cruise resume" button, and the car suddenly accelerated BEYOND where the cruise had been set. The brake was the first thing I thought of. Since it worked, the rest of the list was moot, but I probably would have tried emergency brake, downshift/shift to neutral, turn off ignition, aim for something soft, in that order.

      --
      Slow down, cowboy! It has been 4 hours since you last posted. You must wait another few hours.
    140. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Nakarti · · Score: 2, Informative

      Seriously, when my shoe got wedged between the dash and accelerator, the FIRST thing I did was hit the clutch, the second thing I did was shift into neutral so I could slow down, and the third thing I did was unwedge my damned shoe!
      I think there was an itch on the top of my foot or something, but I learned to be more careful of where my feet were in that car.

      I'd been a manual transmission driver for 5 years at the time. Did I waste time thinking about it? NO! My instinct when I need emergency slowdown is hit the clutch. My instinct when I need precise braking is to go into neutral. I don't need to think about those anymore because I spent enough time thinking about them so I could drive at all.

    141. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      No, the right thing to do is to *turn the fucking engine OFF* so that you both lose the acceleration and your engine doesn't die from the RPMs jumping way above redline. This also works on both automatic and standard transmission, although you may have problems with those cars that just require a RFID tag and a push-button to start (throw the RFID out the window maybe?)

    142. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by bkaul01 · · Score: 1

      If you can't be clear headed when an unexpected situation arises while driving, you really shouldn't be driving to begin with.

    143. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      I once had the joy of a passenger knocking the transmission from drive to neutral while driving down the road. Incidentally, the reason you can do that without pushing the button is precisely so that you can put the car into neutral if something goes wrong. (And not worry about overshooting into reverse.)

      Sounds fine, until you realize I was on cruise control, and my car apparently was built before they realized 'Hey, if the cruise control is on, and the car is not in gear, perhaps we shouldn't accelerate as hard as possible to attempt to impossibly reach that speed.'

      Coping with a coasting car on a non-busy interstate is easy. Dealing with it while you're trying to figure out why your engine is about to explode is something else.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    144. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by steelshadow · · Score: 1
      From the LA Times article:

      One obvious line of defense is to simply shut off the engine, a step that may not be intuitive on the ES 350. The car has a push-button start system, activated by the combination of a wireless electronic fob carried by the driver and a button on the dashboard.

      But once the vehicle is moving, the engine will not shut off unless the button is held down for a full three seconds -- a period of time in which Saylor's car would have traveled 528 feet. A driver may push the button repeatedly, not knowing it requires a three-second hold.

    145. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I read this article on a different site.

      a) This was not his normal vehical, but a rental unit while his was in the shop.
      b) This car did not have a key-in-the-ignition switch, but a push-button start. Instructions say you have to push the switch in for 3-4 seconds to emergency-kill the engine. But how many people go over the manual of arental?
      c) To change out of Drive on most automatics these days, you have to apply the brakes to engage the clutch bands, then you can physically move the shifter to the N position. But, brakes are a vacum assist feature, and at MAX RPMs, there is little to no engine vacum, and thus, little or no brakes. And that's not assuming that such a shift isn't overridden by faulty electronics.

    146. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by steelshadow · · Score: 2, Informative
      He probably did not have time to discover it was the floor mat causing the problem. That's something I never would have thought of in an emergency. As for turning off the ignition: (LA Times article):

      One obvious line of defense is to simply shut off the engine, a step that may not be intuitive on the ES 350. The car has a push-button start system, activated by the combination of a wireless electronic fob carried by the driver and a button on the dashboard.

      But once the vehicle is moving, the engine will not shut off unless the button is held down for a full three seconds -- a period of time in which Saylor's car would have traveled 528 feet. A driver may push the button repeatedly, not knowing it requires a three-second hold.

      ...

      The other common defense tactic advised by experts is to simply shift a runaway vehicle into neutral. But the ES 350 is equipped with an automatic transmission that can mimic manual shifting, and its shift lever on the console has a series of gates and detents that allow a driver to select any of at least four forward gears.

    147. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by alexo · · Score: 1

      No, the right thing to do is to *turn the fucking engine OFF*

      Perhaps.
      But you also have to consider that the steering system in modern cars has a very low gear ratio and relies on engine-supplied assistance. A loss of control at 120mph (190 km/h) can be just as fatal.

    148. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ucblockhead · · Score: 1

      So what you are saying is that you would feel comfortable taking your eyes off the road and reaching down to see if something was jammed in the accelerator when your car was careening 120 mph through 70 mph traffic?

      --
      The cake is a pie
    149. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Indeed. All these people are talking about switching to neutral and braking and stuff.

      Due, if your car is out of control, the very first thing you need to do is turn the engine off. For several reasons.

      1) With your engine off, but car in gear, the engine operates as a brake on the car, slowing you down.

      2) If your engine is redlining, the last thing you need do for it is switch it to neutral and thus entirely disconnect it from the drive system, allowing it to run as fast as possible, and possibly, blow up. Granted, a secondary concern to running into people, but still a concern.

      3) It is at least slightly possible that something has gone horribly wrong under your hood, like a fuel injection that has blow up, and thus you don't want to continue, you know, sending gasoline up there, just a general rule.

      Also, you shouldn't need the emergency brake to stop the car. Once you put stop the engine, normal braking should be more than enough. Emergency brakes are dangerous to use while driving, as you can end up spinning randomly. (Good luck getting out of a spin the emergency brake put you in.)

      Now, WRT to these people, one of the problems is that their ignition is not key operated. They have to hold down a button to cut the thing off mid-run. A good idea for a computer, a mind-bogglingly bad idea for a car.

      I think the government should mandate that all cars can be switched off via a 'switch'. (Which a key would count as.) They can, if they want, also turn on and off some other way, but somewhere close to the driver's right hand, where a key would normally be, there needs to be a thing they can grab and twist to make the damn car stop working, period. Mechanically stop working, cutting off gasoline and disconnecting electricity.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    150. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ucblockhead · · Score: 1

      The car in question had no key. It used push-button ignition. The button has to be pushed down for three seconds to work if you are moving.

      --
      The cake is a pie
    151. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by j00r0m4nc3r · · Score: 1

      Even if you don't consciously "understand" it, you do habitually clutch when braking to a stop. If you didn't, the engine would go out at every red-light.

      It's not a stretch to imagine that if the engine got stuck at full throttle, you'd also brake-and-clutch, which happens to be the right thing to do anyway, whether you understand it or not.

      Under normal circumstances Brake-And-Clutch is significantly less safe than braking and then clutching later. You have much less control of the car when it's not in gear than when it is. So it shouldn't be your general habit to Brake-And-Clutch. BUT, that's not to say that in these cases Brake-And-Clutch is worse than Sit-And-Die, but in general it's best to keep the car in gear when braking. Brake-And-Clutch is a good panic button though...

    152. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Macgruder · · Score: 1

      I read this article on a different site.

      a) This was not his normal vehical, but a rental unit while his was in the shop.
      b) This car did not have a key-in-the-ignition switch, but a push-button start. Instructions say you have to push the switch in for 3-4 seconds to emergency-kill the engine. But how many people go over the manual of arental?
      c) To change out of Drive on most automatics these days, you have to apply the brakes to engage the clutch bands, then you can physically move the shifter to the N position. But, brakes are a vacum assist feature, and at MAX RPMs, there is little to no engine vacum, and thus, little or no brakes. And that's not assuming that such a shift isn't overridden by faulty electronics.

      (previous AC post was me, forgot to log in)

      --
      I'm not crazy,I'm actively irresponsible.
    153. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by cialowicz · · Score: 1

      I believe there were a number of factors here:

      1) He was driving a dealer-loaned car that he was unfamiliar with.
      2) This particular Lexus was equipped with a push-button ignition. This means that if the car's in motion the button has to be held for 3-seconds before shutting off.
      3) The Lexus power-assist braking system loses power when at full throttle. That seems like the major flaw to me.

      Take a look here: autoblog.com.

    154. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Macgruder · · Score: 1

      Brakes on all modern cars are a power-assist unit that runs off the engine vacum. At WOT, there is practically no vacum, so all you have is the pure mechanical linkage, which is no where near enough to stop a vechicle at that velocity.

      --
      I'm not crazy,I'm actively irresponsible.
    155. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Erm, what are you talking about? Automatics can switch to neutral, and back, just fine while being driven.

      I can even switch to neutral, cut the engine off and turn it back to the start position, flip back to drive, and recover, aka, a 'push start' like on the old manual transmission, although you have to 'push' the car at 20 mph or so, so it's not actually plausible to do by hand.

      Granted, I've never tried it with a 'full open throttle', but that's because I, like most people, do not normally drive that way, having to obey laws of physics that govern how fast we can turn corners.

      But all this is wrong, anyway, as switching to neutral is entirely the wrong thing to do in this situation. The correct thing to do is to turn the damn engine off and leave it in drive, so the engine will slow you down.

      Of course, the poor saps in this story don't have a fucking ignition key, instead having to hold a button down for several seconds. (Holding a button down while driving an out of control car? Yeah, I'm sure that's doable.)

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    156. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Or you could turn the key to OFF

    157. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      1. Pulling the pedal out is a pretty dangerous thing to do if you're already busy with traffic. It's more of a last resort, which he may have not gotten to (though, I don't know how bad this was prior to the accident. the article I read didn't cover that).
      2. He tried turning off the ignition. This car doesn't use a key, but a button. To turn it off, you need to hold down the button for 3 seconds. Not exactly the most intuitive mechanism.
      3. That, I don't know. Could be that putting it in neutral didn't do anything, or wouldn't do anything. Or it could be that he didn't think of it.

      The situation is pretty screwed up. I think there may have been problems on both sides. I tend to side with the people that think that the system is more complicated that it needs to be.

    158. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by home-electro.com · · Score: 1

      Pppppplease. People get training specifically not panic in extreme situations. Hit the break, nothing happens, check if you hit the left pedal, hit it again, honk to alert cars around, put the gear in neutral. It all takes 2 seconds.

      I've seen these incidents in movies so many times. It is a classic plot, stuck accelerator. When I see it I think how I'd react. In fact I do that when I learn about any kind of accident. In one case it helped me. (Car could not stop on ice, and collision with car in front was imminent. So I released the breaks and steered car into a snow bank on the shoulder. Steering requires a lot less grip with the road than breaking, so it worked. Accident avoided. )

    159. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by home-electro.com · · Score: 1

      There's more to the story than what you see in the slashdot summary - don't make any uninformed assumptions.

      The guy apparently did try pulling the car out of gear and into neutral, but it didn't do anything (many auto transmissions are electronically controlled and have failsafe mechanisms to prevent desctruction). He also tried shutting off the ignition - but this vehicle like many other fancy new vehicles doesn't have a key ignition. It's a button, and when pressed while driving it won't turn the engine off. Buried in the owners manual is a single sentence that essentially says that in order to turn the engine off while driving, you have to hold the button down for three seconds.

      Wow what a horrible engineering. Way to go -- keep the transmission from destruction, kill the driver.

    160. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You are a genius. Thank you.

    161. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Doctor+Faustus · · Score: 1

      the decline in manual transmission driving has really diminished people's driving abilities... It's another thing to not consider putting the car in neutral when something like this is encountered.
      Probably 95% of my driving (18 years worth) has been with a stickshift. If that happened in a stick, I would immediately push in the clutch, as a matter of instinct. If I was driving an automatic, though, I doubt I would think of shifting to neutral in time.

    162. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by sxltrex · · Score: 1

      I felt like Ron Burgundy reading that post.

    163. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Khyber · · Score: 1

      I was taught differently. If you're driving a manual and your throttle gets stuck, you depress the clutch and kill the vehicle. Don't bother with shifting gears or braking, stop the problem first by killing the transmission, then vehicle, then apply the brakes.

      Manual transmissions should be mandatory for everyone that is not disabled.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
    164. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      He couldn't turn the ignition off, it was push button. It was an unfamiliar rental vehicle, and he was likely not aware that you need to push *and hold* the START button to turn it off. See RISKS Digest discussion of this issue.

    165. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Macgruder · · Score: 1

      Check again. Brakes on all modern cars are a power-assist unit that runs off the engine vacum. At redline (which these cases were), there is practically no vacum, so all you have is the pure mechanical linkage, which is no where near enough to stop a vechicle at that velocity.

      --
      I'm not crazy,I'm actively irresponsible.
    166. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by th0mas_g · · Score: 1

      The rev limiter *should* kick in as soon as you put the car in neutral and the rpms go through the roof.

      However, I suppose that if an electronic throttle has decided to go wide open, then it's possible for the rev limiter to go haywire as well. They should be mutually exclusive in the event of failure, but i suppose anything is possible.

    167. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Nicolay77 · · Score: 1

      They should be. This should be required learning before the driving license is issued.

      --
      We are Turing O-Machines. The Oracle is out there.
    168. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by BetterSense · · Score: 1

      I drive a Corolla with a stick shift. In Dallas traffic, I push the clutch pedal in to disengage the engine from the wheels probably 100+ times per hour. It's not some special function that you would have to, in your panic, "remember" to do. If for some reason the throttle on my car ever got stuck or raced, the clutch pedal would be pushed in, quite seriously, before I had a chance to even think about it. It's not necessary to think Gee, my car is going faster than I want it to, what should I do????? In this case the correct thing to do is what you would in fact do without thinking about it, that is, the same thing you would normally do every time you drive, which which for people who drive stick shifts is simply called "driving the fucking car".

    169. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ishobo · · Score: 1

      Wouldn't the whole point of his super advanced training be that he wouldn't panic?

      Yes. Either he did panic (not unheard of) or there were other mechanical/electrical problems.

      I have done emergency and ice driving training, it is a requirement to get a driver's licence here in Denmark

      The States have the easiest driving tests in the world. It is based on operating a car in good weather with no defensive skill needed and no requirement to drive a manual, or a restriction to automatics if you test in one. In California, I drove around a pretty empty street, never needed to get on the freeway, never did any parking, and no obstacle course. California sees a heavy wet season from late fall to early spring, and snow and ice in the mounutains. If you take the test during the summer, you will never have to demonstrate bad weather driving skill.

      --
      Slashdot - The great and glorious cluster fuck of Internet wisdom.
    170. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Hell, in a manual just hit the clutch. Slushboxes suck.

    171. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Never mind the fact that the driver of the vehicle was a seasoned California Highway Patrol officer with at a minimum of 24-hours of mandatory emergency driver training. During the call, dispatch was told that the driver tried to put the car in neutral, but couldn't. The car apparently wouldn't allow the driver to put the car in neutral at that speed.

    172. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by hmar · · Score: 1

      The flip side, of course, is when you try to downshift said automatic on the highway and drop it into reverse. Always fun.

    173. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by jbengt · · Score: 1

      Easier said than done
      I was having trouble with "braking" on a cold day last December, which was a reasonable assumption the first couple of times it happened, since there was snow on the ground. But when it seemed like I was going to crash into a car in front of me at a red light, it suddenly dawned on me that the engine was revving while I was braking (and, no, I didn't have my foot on the gas). I did quickly put the automatic transmission into neutral and that avoided the crash, but unfortunately, I overshot and hit park for a split second, which resulted in a slow transmission leak that showed up as a puddle in my garage a few days later.

    174. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maharb · · Score: 1

      I am going to (maybe dumbly) assume that you don't know how to drive a manual or don't drive one regularly or you would understand my point better. You can't just slam the brakes without downshifting or going to neutral. By driving a manual transmission you do all things a automatic driver does plus more. Manual transmissions require you to learn at minimum that there are gears and the position of neutral. A automatic driver could literally get by not even knowing that neutral exists.

      There are many other things a decent manual driver would also understand that a automatic driver wouldn't. In an emergency situation this knowledge could come in handy even if they are generally worse drivers. I am not going to argue that a person who drive a manual is a 'better' driver as there are so many aspects to that opinion it would be impossible to determine. What I can tell you is that more knowledge and understanding of the machine you are using can only be a good thing when in an emergency situation where you need to act fast.

    175. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by jbengt · · Score: 1

      No one driving an automatic would think of pushing in the clutch.
      And, unfortunately, if the throttle is stuck, the emergency brake is likely to cause skidding/steering control probelms.
      Braking would be anyone's first thought, though manual shifters would automatically (no pun intended) hit the clutch first as part of braking and so be saved. Shifting to neutral would be the second thought, but it's not necessarily instinctive when you have your foot pressing hard on the brake. It's happened to me, and I did shift to neutral at the last second, but I could have just as easily been too late to avoid the car in front of me.

    176. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maharb · · Score: 1

      I am not saying this scenario has been practiced, I am saying the solution to the scenario has been practiced by manual drivers. What you are saying is that it is dumb to assume someone with more knowledge of something will perform better at a task related to that knowledge. I am going to say your assumption that the extra knowledge is worthless is a dumb assumption.

      If everyone had your point of view, school would be worthless because extra knowledge would be assumed worthless. Just because someone hasn't trained for a specific situation doesn't mean related knowledge is worthless. The whole idea of 'professionals' in a job is that they have accumulated enough related knowledge in a subject to act in a manner that will result in better outcomes despite having never been in that specific situation.

      I find it comical that you have about 6 or 7 assumptions in your post without justification yet call me "overassumptious".

    177. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Lars+T. · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Those that drive manuals would be more clear headed because driving is an active activity where one is engaged with the machine. I don't mean to be a dick but people who drive manuals inherently understand how the fuck a car works because it is required to get the thing moving and stopped.

      Interesting theory. That would mean that Germany, where most drivers have never even driven an automatic, should be full of expert drivers. Not so.

      --

      Lars T.

      To the guy who modded me down from perfect to terrible Karma - Apple haters still suck

    178. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by mindaktiviti · · Score: 1

      Driving habits should be wired into our sub conscious & instinct. I've had a situation where I was accelerating on a highway and the pedal was stuck under the matt (automatic honda). My first instinct was to hit the breaks, alright didn't do much, then I slapped it in neutral and while the engine was screaming at me I was able to pull the matt under and the accelerator was released. I slapped it back into drive & put on my hazards for a few moments while I composed myself (still driving at this point).

      Another instance I had was following too closely and the guy in front of me decided to stop at the yellow light. I instantly slammed on my breaks but due to road conditions I rear ended him. Luckily the speed of my reaction minimized any potential injuries, although I still wrote off my car.

      Two situations where my instinct saved my butt from a potentially fatal situation.

      I did have one instance where I was sitting at a light and I saw a salt dump truck barreling down the road to the left of me incoming into the intersection - he lost control in the snow, figure that one out. I put the car in reverse put because I was so tense it slapped into park (still the automatic Honda). At that point I froze like a deer in headlights. Luckily this behemoth of a vehicle only took out my bumper as he turned int he last minute, but it's an example of where you have enough time to make the correct reaction, but you don't take it because you're just frozen.

      For what it's worth, this last situation also preceded the previous two, so maybe it gave me nerves of steel and I'm better equipped to handle intense road situations, but I can see it happen. A side note, I think a manual transmission vehicle is better than automatic for obvious reasons.

    179. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by jbengt · · Score: 1

      You might not want to turn off the engine if you have power steering.

    180. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maharb · · Score: 1

      Driving tactics are not what you learn by driving a manual. You learn about the car works. You learn that there is a way to disengage the engine from the wheels by putting it in neutral. You do this on a regular basis.

      By know how a car worked I only meant the basics. Not every detail. You can't drive a manual without knowing about gears, neutral, etc. You can get away with knowing almost nothing when driving an automatic.

      Also, going through a training course (what one or two days? at most a week) does not equate to the same experience a lifetime of daily driving give you.

    181. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by khallow · · Score: 1

      If you're driving an automatic, then you don't have that option. Many of the complaints seem to be about automatic vehicles FWIW. I definitely agree about driving a manual.

    182. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by the_humeister · · Score: 1

      Power steering isn't entirely necessary when the car is moving. And you get 3 full brake presses before power brakes go away.

    183. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by cyn1c77 · · Score: 1

      Seeing as you're sitting calmly at a computer and you still didn't consider turning the damn engine off as a possibility before aiming for something to crash into, it kind of begs the question as to why you think people panicking in a runaway car at 100 mph would be more cogent than they were.

      Turning the engine off is a secondary priority to me. Regaining control of the car is the primary objective. I value preventing loss of human life more than an intact engine. I can replace an engine for less than $10K max (and I have insurance to cover that), there is no price on human life for me.

    184. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Chris+Burke · · Score: 1

      And yet he was unable to reach forward with his right hand and pull the floor mat off the pedal?

      What the fuck? Are you serious?

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    185. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by ShakaUVM · · Score: 1

      >>Seriously, if my car were to accelerate without warning, the first thing I would do would be to push down the clutch. The second would be to apply the brake. And if that didn't work, I would pull the emergency brake. Meanwhile, aim for something soft without people in it.

      I used to drive an old Caprice Classic, which had a famous "flying dutchman" syndrome in which it would accelerate out of control. Happened to me once when driving along a 15MPH campus loop drive at my university. I slammed down on the brakes but it still accelerated. I went through a couple stop signs and nearly hit a few people before I thought to shift it into neutral and then killed the gas.

      Scary as hell. I believe it was caused by the cruise control computer turning on spuriously (and set at a very high speed). They never did do a recall on that model, IIRC.

      So I do have a tendency to believe these new car owners...

    186. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Xest · · Score: 1

      Maybe it's because I've always driven a manual, but to me it would be instinctive and not something I'd have to be clear headed and think about.

      Changing gears isn't something you even think about a while after you start driving, it's just something that comes naturally and you just automatically change to the correct gear.

      This is why the parent is correct- not necessarily because people who drive manual understand the gear system better, but simply because they naturally and instinctively will change gear to the situation without a thought.

    187. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Now give this a try while you are at speed. Keep your gas pedal down by hit the brakes, now when you start seeing the flames because your brakes are glowing red tell me again that the brakes are meant to overcome the engines power.

    188. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      Its residual drag in the torque converter. These days with electronic throttle and fully electronic automatic transmissions there is no reason not to put the gear box in neutral when the engine is at idle.

    189. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maharb · · Score: 1

      I never said expert drivers or even better drivers are produced by manual transmissions. In fact I specifically said in my last sentence that I don't think that they make the driver better(way to read). I do think it makes them more capable of handling an emergency situation because of the relationship manual drivers have with their cars.

      It comes down to having the knowledge vs using it. Manual drivers have more knowledge and are more aware of what is going on with their cars. Most of the time they don't use this knowledge to their benefit because nothing is going on and they are humans.. they let their mind wander just like an auto driver. But when an emergency does arise, all of the extra stuff that manual drivers know can be used by the brain to make the correct decision where the automatic driver is more likely to panic.

    190. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by TeethWhitener · · Score: 1

      I understand your point. But my point is this: if you put a manual driver behind the wheel of an automatic, what advantage does knowing how to drive stick confer in an emergency? (This isn't a rhetorical question; I really am curious what you think)

      Maybe in this situation, you'd throw the car into neutral anyway, but there are a few problems to this: 1) Automatic transmissions don't have a clutch, so it's not clear that simply putting the car into neutral is going to be very good for the transmission, and 2) neutral in an automatic is typically right next to reverse, and throwing the car in reverse when you're suddenly accelerating is probably the last thing you want to do.

      Besides, having to 'do all things a [sic] automatic driver does plus more' doesn't seem to me to be a convincing argument for being 'a good thing when in an emergency situation where you need to act fast.'

    191. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Try this in a rental car (preferably something with ~270hp like the ES350 or the v6 Camry): get the car up to 90mph, press the gas pedal all the way down with your right foot, press the brake pedal all the way down with your left foot.

      From the LA Times: "Rotors were discolored and heated, had very rough surfaces, had substantial deposits of brake pad material, and showed signs of bright orange oxidation on the cooling fins consistent with endured braking"

      http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/nation/la-na-toyota-crash25-2009oct25,0,2288195.story

    192. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Capt.DrumkenBum · · Score: 1

      I had to do this in my drivers course. Several times. Including shifting into neutral, and stopping the car with the emergency brake.

      --
      If I were God, wouldn't I protect my churches from acts of me?
    193. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by maharb · · Score: 1

      I would agree that if you threw me in an automatic right now, and put me in a crazy situation I would probably be worse off than if I was in a manual. (I will never buy an automatic car btw. I can't stand the lack of control.)

      But if I had been driving that automatic for a decent amount of time I think I could handle the situation close to as well. I don't think putting a car into neutral can ever hurt the transmission unless something crazy I don't know about happens in some automatics. I did some quick research and nothing came up saying anything wrong with doing it.

      You never really told me if you have had experience with a manual transmission but when you drive a manual you can 'feel' the car. The inputs you give mean a lot more because you need to do more than just press 'go' or 'stop'. Most manual drivers I have been around don't use their gauges after they are used to the car, they literally feel the car needs to shift up or down. This sort of connection would instantly tip me off if something was going wrong and I needed to correct. I can 'feel' the revs of my car to probably within 100 rpm without looking at the gauge, if it is in the range that I usually drive in, so I would almost instantly know something was wrong without even looking at my speed.

      Not having this connection with a automatic car would hinder the ability to use it to your advantage, I agree. I hope that clarifies why I think the way I do.

    194. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Cid+Highwind · · Score: 1

      Forget the sound, the real freakout comes when one discovers that having the throttle stuck wide open means there's no manifold vacuum, and on most cars that means there's no power brake boost. "HOLY CRAP NOW THE GAS AND BRAKE ARE BOTH STUCK, WE'RE ALL GONNA DIE!"

      --
      0 1 - just my two bits
    195. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by toddestan · · Score: 1

      I don't know about other cars, but my Infiniti (aka Nissan) won't let you turn the key enough to engage the steering lock unless you have the car in park. Of course, this doesn't help you if you have a manual - for those there is a small button you must push in to move the key enough to engage the lock, but once I've gotten used to it, I just automatically push the button without even thinking about it.

    196. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by fractoid · · Score: 1

      Sounds to me like the fail modes on that particular car model are tantamount to negligent homicide. Blech.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    197. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by rochberg · · Score: 1

      I've previously driven a manual and now have a 2007 Prius. Like you, my first intuition would be to put the car in neutral. Except in my Prius, I don't have a traditional gear shift that has direct control over the matter. Instead, I have a little nob that I can push in the direction of "D," "N," "R," or "B" (engine breaking). When I push the nob in one of those directions, an electronic component evaluates the command. If my car doesn't like my choice (like trying to shift from D to R while going 45 mph), it makes a little beep and ignores my request. So if it is a problem with the electronic system, and it's ignoring basic requests from the accelerator and the brake pedal, I'm tempted to think it'll ignore the request to shift to neutral. Hopefully, I'll never experience this and find out.

    198. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Brianwa · · Score: 1

      I normally hit the brake first and worry about the clutch later, when I actually have to let it idle or downshift and engine brake. When I had to emergency brake in the rain once, the tires were locked up and the engine was stalled long before I even thought about the clutch.

    199. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Automatic = clutch is engaged and disengaged as needed automatically, generally including computer-controlled fuel injection. Intentionally powering the engine while applying the brakes seems like an obvious error condition. This could be rectified at the fuel injection level, or at the clutch level.

      Engine braking is only applicable if the car is going faster than the engine, such as on a downhill, or if you've got a nice big truck.

      Quite frankly, engine braking always struck me as a good way to overdrive yourself into a new engine. I'd rather not test a Honda Civic's engine close to the redline if I'm the one who has to pay for repairs. Maybe it's just a prejudice of mine, but unless you're riding down out of Colorado... use your brakes.

    200. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      hell, brakes and clutch IS the panic reaction.

    201. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by metaforest · · Score: 1

      +=10 Insightful.

      At any time a car can experience a throttle failure, blowout, rotor lock-up, etc. Without a clear head, focused on the task at hand... DRIVING; someone is likely to get killed.

      I read the NTSB report on the crash, and I doubt their findings. Too many ways for that mat to get under the accelerator during the incident. Why the report states that they did not examine the data recorder output (the vehicle has one) makes no sense to me.

    202. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by qc_dk · · Score: 1

      I have alwaays wondered why you would let people out in public with a 2 ton death machine, without at least testing whether they are capable of operating it in a reasonable manner.

      Of course I don't mean to imply that we are all wonderful bad weather drivers here. The course is way too short to really teach you, but you have an idea of the right thing to do, and you know what definitely not to do. I think the biggest lesson you learn is how much speed matters. Go around a soft bend on the simulated icy road at 50 mph and you won't even notice there's a problem, 53 mph and you'll be fighting like crazy not to spin, and go 55 mph and there's no way to save it, unless you are a seasoned rally driver.

      I was very suprised the margin between not noticing there is a problem and ending up in a ditch is as small as 5 mph

    203. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Vulture101 · · Score: 1

      I drive an Audi and you dont need to wait for for the gas to be cut, the moment you hit the brake pedal, the gas is cut to around 1200/1500 RPM - i think it doesnt cut to idle so it can maintain more vacuum to the servo. I found it when i bought it and was trying to do that maneuver where you brake with you heel and accelerate with the tip of the foot to keep the rev (yes, its a manual) - impossible to do in vw/audi :(

    204. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The particular car in question had the two mode shifter with a ratchet shifter mode to simulate manual shifting. If it was in this mode, it might be difficult to figure out how many shifts it needed to get into neutral.

      It also had that lame push button start. How many people know to hold the button in for 3 seconds to turn the car off manually? How many people have 3 seconds of time at WOT to avoid an accident?

      Also, at WOT there isn't enough vacuum to power assist the brakes more than a couple of pushes on the pedal. After that, under WOT, a test I read says it's difficult, at best, to stop a car with no power assist. The testers calculated 225 lbs of force is required on the brakes and didn't think that was possible from a person sitting in the seat.

      Personally, I prefer a manual transmission and don't particularly care for any of the drive by wire features. I just don't believe any piece of hardware and software combination can be guaranteed to not have a bug somewhere.

    205. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I don't know about reaction time in a sudden acceleration scenario but as a manual transmission driver I'm pretty sure I'd hit the clutch really fast and hard without thinking much (and possibly brake, too).
      It's not for nothing that in driving school they made us practice "ready to brake!"-children-with-a-ball-playing-near-the-street maneuvers.

      But I'll give you that the additional surprise element may get the better of the driver when there's not enough space to stuff the
      "(accelerated) velocity * time" into.

    206. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral! by DRACO- · · Score: 1

      This all reminds me of the day I borrowed my brother's ford ranger (automatic) and he forgot to tell me not to floor it, the cable had a spot where it was unbraided slightly and would get stuck in the ferrel before the cable jacket. I found this out the moment after I raced ahead of some vehicles after coming off the red light and got in the left hand lane to make a u-turn... I suddenly discovered the stuck throttle and shifted into neutral. The engine blared and the computer knocked the rpm's down to 3k after running at 6k for a few seconds unloaded. Good on ford for that programming.

      I typically drive manual transmission and it was of course my first thought was throw into neutral. Once I stopped, all I had to do was shut off the engine, pop the hood, tap the throttle cable and all was good. All I had to contend with is complaining to my brother his ford is crap again. Funny thing is now, he gave up the truck a few months later and had me take over the payments/owership of it. He got pissed off at ford when working at an automotive shop and decided he will never own a ford again.

      --
      Consider yourself blessed if you are sneezed on by a dragon and only get wet, it could have been a fireball.
  4. Anonymous Coward by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Well, looks like regardless of whether or not the problem is electronics or floor mats, people still go with the things they don't understand. Regardless of whether it's bad floor mats or electronics, it's still a design issue and Toyota. Poorly designed floor mats that trap the accelerator pedal are no worse than malfunctioning computer systems if the end result is that you end up in a flaming wreck or plunging off a cliff (that's from tfa).

  5. Floor mat, really? by shutdown+-p+now · · Score: 3, Interesting

    So Toyota says it's floor mat. But here's something I don't understand after reading TFA... all people who had that problem (and lived to tell the tale) insist that they were braking hard as the car was accelerating. If it were really just gas pedal stuck in a floor mat, then surely applying brake would force the car to decelerate regardless?

    1. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A "floored" engine can produce more kinetic energy than the braking system can dissipate.

      TURN OFF THE CAR! That's what the key in the ignition is for. I remember my driver's ed teacher telling me this.

    2. Re:Floor mat, really? by dachshund · · Score: 1

      TURN OFF THE CAR! That's what the key in the ignition is for. I remember my driver's ed teacher telling me this.

      There is no key in many modern vehicles. Apparently the typical push-button start system can be manually turned off, but you have to hold the button for several seconds. People who are trying to control a surging vehicle often don't realize this. In any case, I'm not sure this is a standard, so you might be unlucky to wind up in the one car brand that doesn't support that feature.

    3. Re:Floor mat, really? by jaavaaguru · · Score: 1

      TURN OFF THE CAR!

      And lose power assisted braking and steering, also risking the steering lock activating. For sure putting the car in neutral and applying the brakes is a better idea.

    4. Re:Floor mat, really? by Thantik · · Score: 1

      The prius, which this affects, isn't turned off by the key. The power button also does not immediately turn off the car either. Just like a computer, if you need to cut the car off in an emergency situation...believe it or not, you have to hold the power button down for 3 seconds.

    5. Re:Floor mat, really? by catmistake · · Score: 1

      It's not the electronics. Japanese are a small people, small feet... it's poor design for big american feet. The pedals are too small and too close together. Every one of the people claming to be hitting the brakes hard were in fact, you guessed it, accellerating hard.

    6. Re:Floor mat, really? by icebike · · Score: 2, Informative

      You don't lose power assisted braking or steering as long as the engine is turning. If you turn an engine off as it is running full throttle I guarantee it will diesel along for a while, enough time to slow the car even without power assisted braking.

      Power assist brakes have to be able to stop a car even with the engine is not turning. FHSA rules.
       

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    7. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      true, but tapping the power button while going over 5MPH automatically shifts the car into N

    8. Re:Floor mat, really? by RightwingNutjob · · Score: 1

      On every large piece of moving equipment I've ever seen, (radar dishes, telescopes, autonomous robots, etc), there's usually one (or more) BIG RED BUTTONS that, when pushed, disconnect electrical power from the system, short the drive motor leads, etc. Think long and hard about what fail-safe should actually mean for a car, but surely a good interlock can be designed to prevent these sorts of things.

    9. Re:Floor mat, really? by Rakshasa+Taisab · · Score: 1

      They all floored the break. Which makes me think, being an armchair driver in a runaway toyota, is that I'd let go of the break and hope what ever the software glitch was it would be related to breaks being floored.

      --
      - These characters were randomly selected.
    10. Re:Floor mat, really? by jaavaaguru · · Score: 1

      I've been in a car that did lose both of these systems... but yes, the brakes still work... just takes more effort. And not every country has an FHSA or their rules ;-)

    11. Re:Floor mat, really? by BoneFlower · · Score: 2, Informative

      Clicking through a couple links on the article gets you to a video on what to do.

      Put the car into neutral first. Then apply the brakes and come to a stop as you would for any other serious problem with your car. Do not turn off the engine until you have come to a complete stop, or else you lose all your power assists and that is kind of bad. I've had power steering suddenly fail on me. It is not easy to drive a car in that condition, and trying to drive it in an emergency situation? Yeah, not something I'd recommend if you can help it.

      Even automatics can do this. The video did note that neutral isn't used often, so people might not be familiar enough with their transmission controls to quickly find it, so check the control, find where it is and how to shift to it quickly.

      Turning off the engine should basically be a last resort to be used only if the transmission won't go to neutral. You're probably out a few grand if your car is fucked this badly.

    12. Re:Floor mat, really? by sjames · · Score: 1

      Turn off the car is a good idea. Another factor is that these cars have the pushbutton system and apparently, like a computer, you have to press and hold the button for several seconds to shut it off if the car is in motion. Apparently not everyone knows that.

      I can see a driver who doesn't know that presuming the button isn't working when they press it quickly and nothing happens.

      Really, all drivers need to have the various contingency plans in mind at all times. I've never had the runaway car, but the downshift and emergency brake contingency came in handy one night when I hit the brakes and nothing happened.

    13. Re:Floor mat, really? by mirix · · Score: 1

      A "floored" engine can produce more kinetic energy than the braking system can dissipate.

      That would be incorrect.

      Maybe if you just press lightly on the brakes for miles, and overheat em... but if you're going 60MPH and punch both pedals, the car will stop.

      --
      Sent from my PDP-11
    14. Re:Floor mat, really? by icebike · · Score: 1

      These were cars sold in the US. What Bolivia or Norway have for rules doesn't matter here. The cars were compliant with US regs.

      Its not clear the drivers were.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    15. Re:Floor mat, really? by SteveWoz · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I have owned many Prius's. I currently drive a 2010 one. Let's say that I'm in some place where the speed 85 mph is legal. I can nudge my cruise control speed lever and my speed barely goes up, say from 80 to 81.I nudge at again and again, up to 83. Then I nudge it again and the car takes off, no speed limit. Nudging the cruise speed control lever down has no effect until I've done it about 10 times or more. By then my Prius is doing 97. It's scary because it's so wrong and so out of your normal control. I tested this over and over the night I observed it.

      It's scary because you don't think of things like putting the car in neutral when this happens. I am sure you can't turn the car off with the keyless power button, the only option on this model.

      Braking does disable this scary cruise control effect. It is a natural response, so the problem is mitigated a great deal.

      I have not seen this happen before so I think it's new to the 2010. I have the package which includes parallel parking assist and cruise control distance limiter.

      --
      OK a new size TV
    16. Re:Floor mat, really? by Rising+Ape · · Score: 1

      A "floored" engine can produce more kinetic energy than the braking system can dissipate.

      I find that hard to believe - all cars I've driven have had much stronger brakes than engines. Perhaps they weren't pushing the brake pedal hard enough.

    17. Re:Floor mat, really? by Lakitu · · Score: 1

      This is not true. Although this was in an older car, I've personally had an engine turned off while driving due to an electrical problem. The engine was still turning.

      Not only did I lose power steering, but the steering wheel actually locked because I turned it too far.

    18. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If any car is still acceletrating while you break hard, then there's something seriously wrong with your breaks. Compared to failing breaks the acceleartion issue would hardly be worth mentioning.

    19. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      you have to hold the button for several seconds. ... you might be unlucky to wind up in the one car brand that doesn't support that feature.

      Or worse, if it activates the turbo rocket.

    20. Re:Floor mat, really? by Beryllium+Sphere(tm) · · Score: 1

      No, it can't, not on any car remotely within the normal range. Not even close.

      To see this, simply compare the 0-60 time (which is what the engine can do) with the 60-0 time (which is what the brakes can do).

    21. Re:Floor mat, really? by IntlHarvester · · Score: 2, Informative

      You should consider contacting NHTSA about this.

      --
      Business. Numbers. Money. People. Computer World.
    22. Re:Floor mat, really? by jrumney · · Score: 1

      Since this same problem has been reported before with Audis, it is probably more large (or perhaps clumsy) American feet at fault here than small Japanese ones.

    23. Re:Floor mat, really? by kimvette · · Score: 1

      A "floored" engine can produce more kinetic energy than the braking system can dissipate.

      With most cars, and certainly all Toyotas currently sold here, that is not true. What you're saying may be true for some cars, e.g., the ZR1, BMW, Lamborghini, etc.

      If the brakes can't hold back the little bit of torque any currently-produced Toyota can muster, the vehicle is probably unsafe to start with. This is most likely going to ultimately be the same cause as the Audi "sudden acceleration" problem: people mashing on the "throttle" pedal rather than the brake, but that won't be proven until Toyota is ripped off to the tune of several million in fraudulent liability cases.

      --
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    24. Re:Floor mat, really? by Beardo+the+Bearded · · Score: 1

      ?

      I have no problem using the pedals in my Mazda 5, even when wearing heavy winter boots. If this situation ever happened, I would hold in the clutch, shift into neutral, and let the rev limiter take care of the problem.

      I have been in a car where the driver had his foot on the wrong pedal. It was fairly obvious that he thought his foot was on the brake, because he kept pressing the gas harder and harder until we hit the other car. He was still flooring it after impact and couldn't understand why the car was accelerating instead of braking. His Porche hit an SUV.

      The same thing happened to my kids, except they were in a stroller and a car ran over them. The gas pedal was still floored after the accident. The car was a Mustang.

      --

      ---
      ECHELON is a government program to find words like bomb, jihad, plutonium, assassinate, and anarchy.
    25. Re:Floor mat, really? by Tablizer · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I have owned many Prius's.

      They've only existed for about a decade. Do they really wear out that fast, or do you just like the new car smell?

    26. Re:Floor mat, really? by Fanboys_Suck_Dick · · Score: 4, Informative
      Quoted from http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20091019/BUSINESS/910191027/1036?Title=Fears-over-Toyota-s-runaway-cars

      The ES 350 and most other modern vehicles are equipped with power-assisted brakes, which operate by drawing vacuum power from the engine. But when an engine opens to full throttle, the vacuum drops, and after one or two pumps of the brake pedal the power assist feature disappears.

      As a result, a driver would have to apply enormous pressure to the brake pedal to stop the car, and if the throttle was wide open might not be able to stop it at all, safety experts say.

      "I don't think you can stop a car going 120 mph and an engine at full throttle without power assist," said Ditlow, the safety center director.

      "There's a standard where you have to be able to stop the car without power-assisted brakes, but obviously I don't think it includes situations where the throttle is wide open," he added.

      Drivers in other crashes also found it difficult to rein in a runaway Toyota. Guadalupe Gomez of Redwood City said he was held hostage for 20 miles on a Bay Area freeway by a 2007 Camry traveling more than 100 mph.

      Gomez was unable to turn off the engine or shift into neutral and then burned out his brakes before slamming into another car and killing that driver, said attorney Louis Franecke, who represented that victim's family.

    27. Re:Floor mat, really? by Tablizer · · Score: 1

      A "floored" engine can produce more kinetic energy than the braking system can dissipate.

      Shouldn't breaking disable acceleration? I can't think of any reason to allow both of them to be activated at the same time. Somewhere in the root circuitry should be a simple accelerator voltage cut-off relay if there's current in the breaking line.
         

    28. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      No, that is not necessarily true. If you have a car with a decent sized engine in it, probably not. Forget about them stopping you if the car is already moving and your accelerator gets stuck.

      I thought all Toyotas had that little hook, like in my Tacoma that keeps the floor mat from sliding forward. Guess not.

    29. Re:Floor mat, really? by mysidia · · Score: 1

      Seriously... how much harder would it have been for them to have a red button with a molly-guard on it beside the ignition button for "kill engine NOW" ?

    30. Re:Floor mat, really? by Cabriel · · Score: 1

      Shift to Neutral? Largely the same effect as turning off the car, except all the power-related features are still on, yes?

    31. Re:Floor mat, really? by Deluge · · Score: 1

      "I've had power steering suddenly fail on me. It is not easy to drive a car in that condition, and trying to drive it in an emergency situation?"

      Please. The only time power steering is useful is when you're turning the wheels while stopped or going very slowly. Losing it doesn't make a car difficult to drive. Hell if 8000lb UPS trucks can manage without it, a little passenger car sure can.

    32. Re:Floor mat, really? by Divebus · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I used to have one of those "sudden acceleration" Audi 5000's (1979). It happened to me once and I figured out exactly what happened within five minutes. It wasn't the computer or the floor mat or anything. The accelerator pedal linkage was a solid rod which ran up a few inches from the tip of the pedal, then turned left to pass behind and above the brake pedal. If you put the arch of your foot on the brake pedal, your toes could contact the accelerator rod and depress it. Even light braking action was enough to impart enormous acceleration. The harder you stomped on the brake, the more the engine overcame the braking action. The fix was to put a metal guard plate over the rod behind the brake pedal.

      --

      Most of the stuff on /. won't survive first contact with facts.
    33. Re:Floor mat, really? by hamburgler007 · · Score: 1

      Or, put the car into neutral, so you can do important things, like steer the car so you don't drive into a fucking tree.

    34. Re:Floor mat, really? by hamburgler007 · · Score: 1

      Looks like cabriel beat me to this.

    35. Re:Floor mat, really? by BoneFlower · · Score: 1

      My car was fairly difficult. I was able to get home without a problem, but it was one of the more difficult driving situations I've been in.

      Then again, I really can't rule out a more complicated failure than just power steering. It was close to 20 years old, over 200k miles, and the previous owners had not taken very good care of it at all. I sometimes marveled that it could move under its own power.

      I got it home and my brother did something with it and steering was good again, but the car did not last much longer before an oil pump failure killed the engine.

      At least I only paid $275US for the thing.

    36. Re:Floor mat, really? by Entropius · · Score: 1

      In all the cars I've driven, if you cut the engine while it's still turning, you keep power steering. Even if it's not, you can still steer the car without it. If you're going fast enough that there's danger, then anything more than small steering corrections will probably make you lose control anyway, and you need the power assist far less.

      Honestly -- if your vehicle is so big that you can't steer it at (say) 30mph without power assist, you probably shouldn't be driving it. American cars have just gotten too damn big.

      Likewise, if you lose your power brake assist, there's still pressure in the cylinder, and you can bleed off a lot of speed before it runs out -- then you get to pump the brakes.

    37. Re:Floor mat, really? by scotts13 · · Score: 1

      On at least some cars, it does something similar. My Volkswagen (with drive-by-wire throttle) severely limits the RPM the engine can run at if the brake is pressed.

    38. Re:Floor mat, really? by Entropius · · Score: 1

      It's even more than what you say, actually.

      When you stomp the brakes and go 60-0, the decelerating torque applied by the brake pads to the wheels is limited by traction: ABS (or good braking practice) will limit the braking friction to keep the wheels turning. The brakes can apply an even higher decelerating torque than this; they just don't under normal driving conditions. But if you're trying to overcome the engine torque, then traction isn't an issue.

    39. Re:Floor mat, really? by Random5 · · Score: 1

      Not necessarily, if the engine is revving 2000rpm, sure. 5000 rpm? No way the brakes are going to counter that.

    40. Re:Floor mat, really? by Entropius · · Score: 1

      I know that part of the standard procedure for getting yourself unstuck involves braking and accelerating at the same time. It's also useful for starting a car on an incline without rolling backwards.

    41. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Power assisted brakes are done by vacuum. This can be tested by putting a modern car in park, turning it off. Pump the brakes, and the first few pumps will be normal, then the rest will require a lot harder pressure, due to the vacuum being used up.

    42. Re:Floor mat, really? by Excelcior · · Score: 1

      Braking power assist is just that -- it's a powered assist to the brake. While the average soccer mom probably won't be able to make the wheels lock up without it, you can definitely slow the car down without it. And that's assuming you've used up the pent-up pressure. See, assisted braking is on a pressure basis. It maintains pressure in a reservoir for use the next time you press the brake, and replenishes it when you release the brakes. It will slowly deplete on its own, but it takes minutes, not moments. Try pressing the brakes after you have your car shut off next time you park it. The first time or two, the pedal will depress like always. The more times you press it, the harder it will be to depress; you still have to depress the pedal as far to incur the same amount of braking power, but notice it's still possible; just takes more force on the pedal.
      The steering wheel locking is a definite concern, though. However, you can typically turn the engine 'off' without turning the entire car off. The only issue is that when you're panicking, it's quite easy to turn the key one click too far.

      My persuasion, however, is that the best vehicles are always the simplest. If it's from 1980 or newer, it needs to have some electrical systems bypassed. I don't like trusting my life to something i didn't built/rebuild/reverse engineer. My '73 Jeep Wagoneer & '89 Dodge pickup had to be entirely re-engineered, electronically. Heck, I even re-designed the headlight controls in my Jeep. My '71 VW Beetle is next. Sure, I drive a newer car ('05 Chrysler), but I'll never feel as safe in her as I do in my purely mechanical rides. And even so, I chose my Chrysler partially based on how non-electronics-dependent the core systems were, as compared to competing models.

      --
      A small comparison of interest:
      Windows: Public School. Mac: Private School. Linux: Homeschool. Assembly: Unschool.
    43. Re:Floor mat, really? by FrankieBaby1986 · · Score: 1

      To be fair, if your throttle sticks open while driving, neutral and brake is definitely the right thing to do, but you'd also better kill the engine before the high revs cause damage (assuming no rev limiter, and even then you shouldn't be hitting the limiter if avoidable)

      Over-revving the engine can also cause expensive damage.

      --
      ERROR: SIG NOT FOUND (A)bort, (R)etry, (F)ail?:
    44. Re:Floor mat, really? by pleappleappleap · · Score: 4, Informative

      God damn, people! break != brake

    45. Re:Floor mat, really? by pleappleappleap · · Score: 1

      Nope, it's not true for the ZR1, BMW or Lamborghini either. All of these cars not only have uprated engines, but uprated brakes also.

    46. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's true... In a car with a manual gearbox, or in an auto going a reasonable speed. A slow moving torque converter with the high "torque" of the car's kinetic energy will cause the converter to stall at that speed, and it will more or less decouple.

      The steering wheel lock, on the other hand, has not a fucking thing to do with any sort of electrical mishap. That's purely a mechanical issue with your ignition and or key. You probably lost engine power because you somehow managed to turn the ignition off, and or your worn out key or ignition popped out slightly, activating the steering lock.

    47. Re:Floor mat, really? by ThrowAwaySociety · · Score: 4, Interesting

      So Toyota says it's floor mat. But here's something I don't understand after reading TFA... all people who had that problem (and lived to tell the tale) insist that they were braking hard as the car was accelerating. If it were really just gas pedal stuck in a floor mat, then surely applying brake would force the car to decelerate regardless?

      Funny thing about the brake. It's operated in the same way as the accelerator, and located in a place where most people don't normally look while they're operating it.

      This was famously the case with Audis in the early '90s. Audi, designing for the heel-to-toe autobahn driver, put the brake and accelerator pedals closer to each other than on most US-market cars. Cue a number of reports in the US from drivers screaming, "I was mashing the pedal as hard as I could, and the car just wouldn't stop! In fact, it kept going faster and faster!"

      No defect was ever found (though that didn't stop the media from demonstrating it) and the problem was only reported in the US, although the same cars were sold worldwide.

    48. Re:Floor mat, really? by BluBrick · · Score: 4, Funny

      The ashtray was full - what else could the guy do?

      --
      Ahh - My eye!
      The doctor said I'm not supposed to get Slashdot in it!
    49. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Audi had a similar PR problem back in the 80's with a phenomenon called "unintended acceleration". It was featured on 60 minutes and ended up being the near death of Audi. The alleged failure mode matches what is described for the Toyota exactly. It was eventually proven that it was impossible for the "unintended accelerations" to exist with the car's design. Although it could not be proven exactly why people managed to drive their cars through windows and the like, it was chalked up to floor mats, pedals being close, women in high-heals, etc... I think the only corrective action Audi ever did was to put grommets in the floor mats to hold them in place.

      That being said, the drive by wire does irk me. I have a BMW X5 and the engineers put a "redundant" sensor in the pedal. So, instead of having three sensors that can majority vote and alert you when one doesn't agree, I have two that put the car into a dangerous limp home mode when one goes out. It's kind of embarrassing that my car broke down and especially so for a gas pedal. My old 70's pickup had a broken gas pedal too, but I could still press on the linkage bar to make it go and only had to be careful that my heal didn't fall through the hole in the rusted floor. Oh well, that is progress for you.

    50. Re:Floor mat, really? by skastrik · · Score: 1
    51. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      And lose power assisted braking and steering,

      According to the article, in a floored situation the engine routes power away from the vacuum system. So you quickly lose power-assist braking anyway.

      BTW, Consumer Reports tried this earlier, and couldn't get a Toyota or a Chevy to fully stop from 60 MPH, though they slowed down to 10 before the brakes fatigued. http://blogs.consumerreports.org/cars/2009/10/toyota-recall-putting-stuck-floor-mat-survival-strategies-to-the-test.html

    52. Re:Floor mat, really? by TheLink · · Score: 1

      Perhaps they were flooring the wrong pedal e.g. the throttle. Happens and too often. People step on the throttle, think it's the brake, panic because of the unexpected acceleration and keep flooring the "brake".

      I personally know someone who did that in the driveway - stepped on wrong pedal and rammed the parked car in front. Not me, but hey it could happen to me one day, the pedals are next to each other after all.

      Sure it could be a Toyota problem but as you said, people who know cars know that on modern cars the brakes are more powerful than the engine. You'd need to experience a brake failure at the same time. So what are the odds?

      Unless there's more evidence I think it's a driver problem. Maybe Toyota will start putting "black boxes" in their cars analogous to the ones on airliners.

      --
    53. Re:Floor mat, really? by broken_chaos · · Score: 1

      I'm not sure how modern automatic cars handle it (I drive a few-year-old standard, which still uses a physical key), but this likely causes the engine to rev out of control. Granted, better situation than having the car hurtling towards high speeds on a road, but it's not even close to the equivalent of turning the car off, not at all.

    54. Re:Floor mat, really? by XDirtypunkX · · Score: 1

      On a manual/stick it is often advantageous to brake and accelerate at the same time while down-shifting, but the clutch is in when you're doing so.

    55. Re:Floor mat, really? by random+coward · · Score: 1

      Yes they will and its easily testable. What is the 0-60mph acceleration time of the car? what is the 60-0 declaration time of the car? EVERY car can decelerate faster than it can accelerate. Therefore it has more breaking power than engine power. QED.

    56. Re:Floor mat, really? by Trepidity · · Score: 1

      Well, not quite "out of control"; it'll cause the engine to rev to red-line, which doesn't really have much harmful effect besides using some fuel and making noise.

    57. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Incidentally, power-assisted braking relies on back-pressure, and if an engine is at full throttle there is very little back-pressure. If the engine is at full throttle you get one or two pumps of assisted braking before you lose all that pressure.

    58. Re:Floor mat, really? by lemur666 · · Score: 1

      Dollars to donuts says they only thought they were mashing the brakes down. In panic situations I've seen many people "lock up" or target fixate and continue to do exactly what they were doing that got them into the bad situation they were in. So small throttle sticking leads to mild panic which leads to more throttle and more panic and... Lather, rinse, repeat until accident and/or lawsuit.

      --
      Corollary to Hanlon's razor: Any significantly advanced stupidity is indistinguishable from malice.
    59. Re:Floor mat, really? by Random5 · · Score: 1, Troll

      The brakes assert a constant force, while the force the engine exerts increases with the engine's rotational speed. Therefore at the end of that 0 to 60 acceleration it's accelerating faster than the constant rate the brakes slow it in the 60 to 0 deceleration, QED bitch.

    60. Re:Floor mat, really? by MachDelta · · Score: 1

      I call BS. The steering column lock is a function of the key tumbler, not the engine or electrical system. The only way for it to lock is if the key is in the lock position (hence the name). Either you bumped the key (happened to me once when I had too much crap on my keychain) or you're just making things up.

    61. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I can't think of any reason to allow both of them to be activated at the same time.

      That's because you're not a very good driver. Getting the car moving on an incline is probably the most convincing reason, because I suppose heel and toe isn't something that the designers of Toyota Driving Appliances have in mind. But there certainly are reasons.

      The best one is that the car should, by default, do exactly what you tell it. If you floor the brake and the accelerator at the same time, it should interpret that as an instruction to brake hard and open the throttle wide. Even if there's no reason for it. Otherwise the driver isn't in control of the car, the computer is.

      Then again, you're a slashdotter! You probably think it's cool as hell that the computer is driving the car, and want every car to be driven by a computer. Asshole.

    62. Re:Floor mat, really? by dafing · · Score: 1

      They've only existed for about a decade. Do they really wear out that fast, or do you just like the new car smell?

      read his username, he's known for liking new gadgets :)

      --
      --- ...or a new slashdot signature. Dear aunt, let's set so double the killer delete select all
    63. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      didn't know a prius could go over 80

      And what were you doing playing with your cruise control like that?

      I am glad my car is 14 years old at this point. pedal connected to engine neutral is NEUTRAL and most importantly it is rwd and if i wanted to 120mph is not out of the question...

    64. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You don't lose power assisted braking or steering as long as the engine is turning. If you turn an engine off as it is running full throttle I guarantee it will diesel along for a while, enough time to slow the car even without power assisted braking.

      My '01 Skoda Octavia disagrees with you.

    65. Re:Floor mat, really? by ars · · Score: 3, Informative

      Hell if 8000lb UPS trucks can manage without it [power steering], a little passenger car sure can.

      It depends on the design of the vehicle, specifically the caster angle.

      If your angle is 0 it's pretty easy to turn the wheel. But if it's not, then turning the wheel means also lifting the vehicle higher, and that's not easy.

      They use non-zero angles so that the weight of the vehicle will auto put the wheels back to straight. It makes it much easier to drive long distances if the wheel "likes" to be straight.

      --
      -Ariel
    66. Re:Floor mat, really? by ars · · Score: 1

      I find that hard to believe - all cars I've driven have had much stronger brakes than engines. Perhaps they weren't pushing the brake pedal hard enough.

      Then you drive underpowered cars, because in all the ones I've driven the engine was MUCH stronger than the brakes.

      --
      -Ariel
    67. Re:Floor mat, really? by sarhjinian · · Score: 1

      The current Toyota Camry is designed more or less with the North American market in mind. Honest to god, have you seen this car? It's huge, soft and simple: there's no way it was designed for Japan or Europe.

      --
      --srj/mmv
    68. Re:Floor mat, really? by jamesh · · Score: 1

      You don't lose power assisted braking or steering as long as the engine is turning. If you turn an engine off as it is running full throttle I guarantee it will diesel along for a while, enough time to slow the car even without power assisted braking.

      Power assist brakes have to be able to stop a car even with the engine is not turning.

      The last time I seriously looked under the bonnet (1978 Ford Cortina), the power brakes were assisted via a vacuum reservoir. The reservoir was kept in a state of vacuum via a hose from the inlet manifold. This means that with the throttle in full closed position (eg in the kind of state you'd want to apply the brakes anyway) and the engine turning, you should get some vacuum happening. The vacuum reservoir will stay in a state of vacuum for a bit after the engine stops... i've never had cause to find out exactly how long though.

      The power steering gets its power from a hydraulic pump attached (via a belt) to the crankshaft. So in theory, as long as the engine is turning you should get some assist.

      By 1978 though, and probably much earlier, the dieseling problem had been solved via a fuel cutoff solenoid in the carburetor, so it simply won't happen. A fuel injected vehicle doesn't have the problem, as obviously the fuel is completely cut off if the engine has stopped. The engine might be kept turning via the drive train in a manual vehicle, as long as it is kept in gear, but possibly not so much in an automatic vehicle. That's not dieseling though.

    69. Re:Floor mat, really? by jamesh · · Score: 1

      Turning off the engine should basically be a last resort to be used only if the transmission won't go to neutral.

      You just can't say this loudly enough. My car key turns about 180 degrees between off and start, with positions for "off", "accessories", "on", and "start". I think there is somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees between "on" and "start", leaving the other settings reasonably close to each other. In an emergency you would need to turn it to 'accessories' without moving it to 'off' which would engage the steering column lock. There was an accident just recently here in Australia where some kids were driving and someone turned the keys to the off position. They crashed... can't remember how many were killed.

    70. Re:Floor mat, really? by Lakitu · · Score: 1

      You're right, calling it simply an electrical problem is kind of misleading. There was some loose connection when the key was in a certain position (while in the on position), something would short, and it would shut off. Fully off, not just the engine. I had to turn the key into the full-off position and restart it in order to get it going again. Sometimes if I jiggled it just right I could restart it right away without switching it completely off.

      I didn't mean to be misleading, but it can definitely happen! There's also multiple definitions of "off". A lot of ignition switches have off, accessories, on, start. Some have multiple off positions. Either way, simply turning the car off isn't guaranteed to work, as was suggested. It's not likely to lock up the steering wheel.

      I'm fairly certain that that car would have to be switched off quickly to shut off the engine and then back into the on position in order for power steering and brakes to work, but I'm not positive. Some may not, but the point is that it's definitely not true across the board.

      It's also been pointed out that the car in question doesn't even have anything resembling an ignition switch, it has a power button that works like the ones on most computers, which sounds crazy to me. It also perfectly explains why someone might not consider shutting off the car.

    71. Re:Floor mat, really? by jamesh · · Score: 1

      I've done exactly the opposite. Put my foot gently on the accelerator and the car seemed to slow down. Pressed it a bit harder and got a hell of a jolt. I was hitting the brake instead. I'd just gotten into the car after putting some air in the tyres and had foolishly started to drive off before getting comfortable.

      I've been doing some pretty long drives lately and have become conscious of the fact that when cruise control is engaged and my foot is anywhere other than resting on the accelerator, that finding the brake takes longer than I would like it to. In particular, if my foot is resting to the right of the accelerator, then I figure that in an emergency, moving it to the left to find the brake might not find the brake first go, with unwanted results.

      I rest my foot on the accelerator now when on cruise control, although more and more I just use the speed limiter instead which is great when following behind someone who's speed is varying wildly, or going around winding roads - so many times i've been concentrating on the winding roads and not looking at the speedo and just doing a speed that feels safe, and suddenly i'm doing 120 in a 100 zone!

    72. Re:Floor mat, really? by francium+de+neobie · · Score: 1

      If you look careful at that guy's user name, you'll notice that it's someone who definitely have the money to buy a new Prius every month.

    73. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      After all, it's 'Woz!

    74. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Seems plausible. While driven by the pedal there's usually something in place to double-check (two wires, second micro, parallel software, ...) driver's intend and throttle position. There are other features (like cruise control) that may act on the throttle and are explicitly ignored by these checks - or have their own special (more limited) checks. If cruise control is on and wants to do Vmax, it likely can without being caught. Maybe it's just a feature like "double click to go up 10 mph" with some odd timing for the double click detection?

      What's the control unit brand?

    75. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      actually, I've had occurances when carting where I was applying both brakes & gas subconciously when I was sure I was only applying gas. while quickly corrected, the case with the Toyotas of applying gas when you should be applying brakes is pretty likely to be driver error. the fact one instance however had the time to make a 911 call is baffling. by then you should obviously have had the time to check your pedals.

      I don't drive any modern cars, but the first thing I'd do is shift down as far as i can (potentially blowing the engine, but whatever) and then go to neutral. there is also the hand brake, of course. I suspect most hand brakes are progressive by now?

      anyhow, if the problem occurs with my motorcycle (also has an ECU & the whole nine yards), there's a simple emergency interrupt switch that will turn off all power, including spark ignition.
      why don't cars have a similar button or switch if they don't have a regular key? (and I don't mean the ignition/power/start switch, but something distinct)

    76. Re:Floor mat, really? by choprboy · · Score: 1

      I can nudge my cruise control speed lever and my speed barely goes up, say from 80 to 81.I nudge at again and again, up to 83. Then I nudge it again and the car takes off, no speed limit. Nudging the cruise speed control lever down has no effect until I've done it about 10 times or more. By then my Prius is doing 97. It's scary because it's so wrong and so out of your normal control

      Having an older Toyota truck and being someplace you can safely drive 85... I'd have to say this sounds like a misunderstanding of the cruise control. I have experienced the very same thing, and it can be scary, but it is NOT an ECU problem (at least mechanically, it could be argued to be an interface problem). It is an impatient driver problem. Using the same scenario you just describe imagine the following:

      You are driving up a long gentle grade on cruise control at 80MPH, perhaps with a headwind. Unbeknownst to you, your throttle is already wide open as the cruise control maintains your set speed. You bump the cruise control up two notches, but you do not appear to speed up. You bump it up two or three times again and your car barely accelerates to 81... You bump it up another 5 times and creep up to 83. Now you are really impatient and hit it another 10 times with no apparent affect.

      Sound familiar? Now think about what you have done, you have set the cruise control from 80 to 100, but your engine is maxed out maintaining 80-ish. As you start to crest the grade your engine has more available power and the vehicle takes off to reach the new speed you set the cruise control at, 100. As you accelerate thru 85, then 87, then 89, you bump the cruise control down and then again and again, but your set at 97 now so you continue to accelerate.

      This is not a problem of the ECU "going crazy" and taking off... this is the driver losing track of what they have told the ECU to maintain. The solution is simple, pull down on the cruise control lever as many times as you pushed up. Or. more preferably, pull back on the cruise control lever to immediately cancel the set speed. Or, step on the clutch to immediately cancel the set speed. Or, step on the brake to immediately cancel the set speed.

      Having a 10 year old 2WD Tacoma truck with a vacuum-actuated cruise control throttle, this can be even more fun. With the throttle wide open the actuator is at full vacuum and can take a couple seconds to release when cruise control is canceled. Having new Prius with "drive-by-wire", the cancel effect should be almost instantaneous.

      Neither my Toyota truck nor the Prius are speed demons. Yes you can get them both up past 100MPH (OK.. so Ive only had mine to 97), but neither has the power to maintain that speed up grade. You can always ask the vehicle to do more than possible at the moment, it will happily oblige when the power later becomes available.

    77. Re:Floor mat, really? by eggnoglatte · · Score: 1

      I never understood why this hasn't been fixed yet. Surely it can't be THAT hard to come up with a system where you simply can't turn the key all the way to the "lock" position while the wheels are still moving?

    78. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Actually, it IS easy to drive a car in that condition. Hell, I've had the serpentine belt shred in a half-ton pickup (twice), and even that's easy to drive once you're over 10mph. If you're so weak that you can not, or only with difficulty, steer to a stop with no power steering, you have no business driving that car, because you _can't_handle_ a whole class of malfunctions, and you risk taking me out with you should they happen.

      Besides, on a long downgrade with a heavy load, you may NEED the engine in gear to get stopped in time. Real drivers understand the vehicle well enough to understand both options, assess the situation, and choose appropriately.

    79. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Unless it is operated with a solenoid. As would be the case with a car that has keyless operation.

    80. Re:Floor mat, really? by VoidCrow · · Score: 1

      Actually, the *torque* the engine produces lies in a curve and peaks somewhere around 3000-4000rpm for many engines. This is the maximum force exerted via the flywheel. The maximum *power* is near peak rpm, produces *less* force, but makes up for it by the increase in rpm... ie more energy delivered per unit time.

      The maximum constant force the brakes must overcome is at peak torque. There is an additional factor in that the engine and drivetrain have a large amount of rotational inertia (this is why fast-revving powerful engines often have lightened flywheels), but the brakes apply more retardation (srs) than the engine applies acceleration, for ic-engined cars.

    81. Re:Floor mat, really? by VoidCrow · · Score: 1

      Out of interest, name a few.

    82. Re:Floor mat, really? by VoidCrow · · Score: 1

      And, what were the 0-60 times, and the 60-0 times?

    83. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      There is a way to turn off those keyless models it seems.

      Most involve holding the start button for 5 seconds.

      Not good enough imo. There should probably be a physical switch, maybe where the keys should, just for old times sake in panic situations.

    84. Re:Floor mat, really? by qc_dk · · Score: 1

      I've been in a car that did lose both of these systems... but yes, the brakes still work... just takes more effort. And not every country has an FHSA or their rules ;-)

      But I'm pretty sure all western countries have an equivalent. So you would have to design your cars to those specifications if you ever wanted to sell them in america/europe. BTW. how could you possibly design a brake that worked with the power assist but not without?

      My worst experience was losing the engine and the power assist going down the alps. There was something wrong with the ECU so the engine lost all power but was still running and then the assist went. Which isn't fun when going down steep slopes and the brake are already suffering some fade.

    85. Re:Floor mat, really? by hasdikarlsam · · Score: 1

      So, what did you do?

      My response would be "stop, by any means necessary, then call for assistance".

    86. Re:Floor mat, really? by ars · · Score: 1

      Chevrolet Beauville van, don't remember year prob about 1985.

      Mercury Sable Station wagon, 1998 (I still have that one, I would retest it, but I'm too worried about the transmission to do that. And incidentally I hate the brakes on it.)

      I've tried 1 or 2 others, but don't remember their names.

      --
      -Ariel
    87. Re:Floor mat, really? by Idiomatick · · Score: 1

      Depends on how strong your legs are.

    88. Re:Floor mat, really? by Filgy · · Score: 1

      It sounds like this is the cruise control distance limiter combined with the speed increase button trying to be smarter then it should be.

      Bumping the cruise control the first few times gives a slight speed increase. However, after X amount of bumps within Y time, the distance limiter notices there is no car in front of you and that you keep bumping the increase speed button. So the only logical conclusion for it to make is you want to go REALLY fast. Cue car taking off like a rocket until you hit the brake or (I'm assuming) come up on a car in front of you.

      You call it a bug, I call it a feature! :)

      Seriously though.. this sounds like a major screw up on Toyota's part..

      PS You should do Kathy Griffins show again...

      --

      -- filgy
    89. Re:Floor mat, really? by roguetrick · · Score: 1

      Informative, Coward.

      --
      -The world would be a better place if everyone had a hoverboard
    90. Re:Floor mat, really? by LuxMaker · · Score: 1

      Yo dawg, I put a break in your brake so you can break dance with a floor mat while applying the brake.

      --
      I regret that I only have one mod point to give per post.
    91. Re:Floor mat, really? by knarf · · Score: 1

      And apart from that, you don't need power assisted steering when driving over 10 km/h. Power assisted braking is handy to have but if it fails you just jam down the pedal. Pull the handbrake or push the emergency brake pedal as well for even more stopping power. The handbrake should be able to lock the wheels, if it can not you should adjust it. Some handbrakes are just woefully inadequate and will need regular care to be effective but that's just something to keep in mind when looking for a new used vehicle...

      --
      --frank[at]unternet.org
    92. Re:Floor mat, really? by smoker2 · · Score: 1

      EXCEPT when the brakes are competing with a wide open throttle. You don't generally brake hard while simultaneously flooring the throttle. Neither of your questions addresses simultaneous operation. So no, not QED.
      Ever been to a tractor pull ? Two identical machines, one uses brakes and the other one goes full throttle in the other direction. The braking one gets dragged backwards, without locking the wheels. So brakes are stronger ?

    93. Re:Floor mat, really? by Wild+Wizard · · Score: 1

      I tested this over and over the night I observed it.

      Just curious but did you test pressing the cruise control up again after it started accelerating seemingly out of control?

      Nudging the cruise speed control lever down has no effect until I've done it about 10 times or more.

      Toyota default override is 10 times, can be used on a variety of things in the car that have sensors to control how far a button push will take something.

    94. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yeah, right. Car and Driver took an audi 5000 out to some remote place (to the desert I think), accelerated the car to 80mph, held the accelerator down and stomped on the brake. They repeated this simple test several times. The car stopped every time. Brakes in the audi were more than sufficient to overcome the engine power.

    95. Re:Floor mat, really? by Tobor+the+Eighth+Man · · Score: 1

      I am sure you can't turn the car off with the keyless power button, the only option on this model.

      You can force a Prius to turn off in an emergency by holding down the power button for several seconds.

    96. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm guessing he tinkers with them. After all, look at who you're replying to.

    97. Re:Floor mat, really? by Rising+Ape · · Score: 1

      Brakes are capable of locking the tyres at any speed (in the absense of ABS). If not, your brakes are not good enough. How many engines are capable of spinning the tyres at any speed?

      Pretty much any car can do 60-0 much faster than 0-60. You really need to get your brakes fixed.

    98. Re:Floor mat, really? by Kpechtunx · · Score: 1

      My wife's old Fiesta used to rev uncontrollably occasionally. More often in wet weather. We kind of learnt to drive it that way though until it was scrapped. No "runaway vehicle" type incidents occurred, however, probably due to a thing called the "clutch". Bit embarrassing at traffic lights though.

    99. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So Toyota says it's floor mat. But here's something I don't understand after reading TFA... all people who had that problem (and lived to tell the tale) insist that they were braking hard as the car was accelerating. If it were really just gas pedal stuck in a floor mat, then surely applying brake would force the car to decelerate regardless?

      We drive a 2006 Toyota Tacoma and have had it happen 2 times. And the first time we experienced the acceleration while braking we were able to slow and stop the car. A closer examination indicated the thick rubber mats had come free from the floor anchors and over time shifted under the accelerator pedal. Didn't think much about it until it happened again. A quick reach down to tug the mat back solved the problem. And the complete solution was reached by replacing the mat. Hasn't happened in a year. Anecdotal? Sure. But just thought I'd share an owner's observations. Not saying there isn't something else there but ya know - Occam's Razor and all.

    100. Re:Floor mat, really? by Divebus · · Score: 1

      I'm just saying that if you managed to catch the accelerator linkage, you got more accelerator than brake for the same foot travel. The linkage would actually keep your foot from applying too much brake if you really mashed down.. The conspiracy theorists would rather think the issue was much more unfathomable than something simple like that.

      --

      Most of the stuff on /. won't survive first contact with facts.
    101. Re:Floor mat, really? by mantis2009 · · Score: 1

      Can you throw a cruise control computer out a window?

    102. Re:Floor mat, really? by Fahrvergnuugen · · Score: 1

      Power assisted brakes rely on vacuum pressure. Vacuum pressure (on a gasoline engine) is only available when the car is not at wide open throttle. The brake booster will store vacuum pressure, but it only works for 1 or 2 pumps. If you shut the car off while coasting and pump the brake, you will feel it get stiffer and stiffer.

      --
      Kiteboarding Gear Mention slashdot and get 10% off!
    103. Re:Floor mat, really? by destroyer661 · · Score: 1

      I can confirm a similar occurrence in my 2008 Ford Escape. If I tap the accelerate button once or twice, it will only go up a small bit, hitting it again will suddenly increase the speed a lot (I don't know how far it would go, I've let it go from 120km/h to 140km/h before I tapped the brakes to turn it off).

      --
      #define true false // Have fun debugging!
    104. Re:Floor mat, really? by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      I have the same problem with the cruise control on my car.
      The way it works is that there are two buttons for the CC. There's this "feature" that when you brake and deactivate the cruise control, it remembers your last speed. Sooner or later you'll probably want to set it back on again. That's where the two buttons come in. While the "minus" button will set the CC to your current speed, pressing the "plus" button acelerate the car at an alarming rate up to your last speed.

      It surprised me twice before I read the fucking manual. Obviously most people won't do that.

      It's rediculously dangerous for a totally bullshit and useless feature. It's not as if cruise control is new and exciting tech here.

      In my opinion there should be stricter usability standards for cars. You could probably prevent thousands of accidents simply by requiring car radios to be more ergonomic and simple-tp-use. I shouldn't have to read a manual to tune in to a stupid radio station.

    105. Re:Floor mat, really? by deroby · · Score: 1

      Not being familiar with the dash of a Toyota Prius (or Toyota in general), I do was wondering if there isn't some kind of indication on what the Cruise Controls' requested speed is ?
      I know my Citroen C4 shows this nicely side by side to the actual speed.

      --
      If there is one thing to be learned on slashdot, it has to be sarcasm.
    106. Re:Floor mat, really? by RivieraKid · · Score: 1

      My 2008 RAV-4 XT5 has keyless operation. The steering wheel lock solenoid will only operate when the ignition is off and you open the driver's door.

      --
      "Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves
    107. Re:Floor mat, really? by fulldecent · · Score: 1

      >> I have owned many Prius's
      >> Then I nudge it again and the car takes off, no speed limit.

      Please post to YouTube and provide a link.

      --

      -- I was raised on the command line, bitch

    108. Re:Floor mat, really? by ThatMegathronDude · · Score: 1

      Many vehicles for the US market since the '90s require you to engage some sort of safety before putting the key into the OFF/lock position. Some work by pressing the key in, others have a button that must be pressed while turning. If you are accustomed to turning the key to OFF in one motion, it doesn't do much, but you can't account for all driver errors.

    109. Re:Floor mat, really? by GaryOlson · · Score: 1

      I tested this over and over...

      There is a sign of an engineer who really likes his work. Next time you have one of these interesting problems, let me know. I would love to help test.

      Odd thought...if you told the Prius to park at that speed, would it attempt to comply?

      --
      Every mans' island needs an ocean; choose your ocean carefully.
    110. Re:Floor mat, really? by RivieraKid · · Score: 1

      Here in Europe at least, the wheel absolutely will not lock until the key is physically removed from the ignition. Simply switching off the ignition will do nothing to the wheel lock.

      --
      "Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves
    111. Re:Floor mat, really? by MattSausage · · Score: 0

      Just out of curiosity, how do you hold down the clutch, the brake and the accelerator all at the same time?

    112. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      All Toyota-built electronic starter vehicles (the ones with the power button and proximity key) can be shut off in gear by holding down the power button for three seconds. (And I don't mean this is a demeaning manner, but this is in my 2010 Prius' Manual)

    113. Re:Floor mat, really? by Froster · · Score: 1

      There are some other problems with Toyota's that seem to contribute to this problem. The most significant of which is that the models in question apparently lack a failsafe that shuts off the engine when both the gas and brake are applied simultaneously. Most other manufacturers have this, and it would immediately solve the problem (even if the root cause was the floor mats).

      Also, the shifter layout of many current Toyota's makes it not entirely trivial to shift into neutral without looking at the shifter, as there are a couple of different stops in the shifter's travel to accommodate things such as manual shift modes. So, its not as simple as just dropping down one position from drive, and something that a panicked driver may not be able to do.

    114. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Any post that starts with "I have owned many Prius's." has got to be suspect when it comes to opinions about cars.
      Prius's are the un-car. They are slow, fat, ugly, can't turn and have crappy brakes. Public transportation is more stylish.
      The looks of the Pontiac Aztec....

      Yeah, I know... Troll -1

    115. Re:Floor mat, really? by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      This feature has existed for decades. My 94 Honda Civic will only turn to Accessory and then stops. To turn it to LOCK you have to push the key in. Even my old 79 Dodge Van wouldn't turn past OFF to LOCK without pushing in on the chrome collar around the key.. unfortunately, the collar spring is invariably weak, and most people push in the collar by habit when they turn the key, so that safety feature might as well not even be there.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    116. Re:Floor mat, really? by penguinbrat · · Score: 1

      There's something else I don't quite understand - I've had the gas pedal stick on me a more than few times because of the floor mat. The problem I'm having with Toyota's theory though is that in my situation the floor mat simply held the gas pedal where it was on each occasion - so when I went to stop/slow down, letting off the gas didn't do anything - but it sure as hell didn't floor the beast to where I was all the sudden doing 90 and thrown back into the seat (as one of the reports claim) and yes the brakes did still work - just more pressure was required to use them.

    117. Re:Floor mat, really? by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      My old 1967 Dodge Dart! V8 engine, 4 wheel drum brakes. No fucking WAY you're going to stop that car with a wide open throttle.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    118. Re:Floor mat, really? by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      Brakes are capable of locking the tyres at any speed (in the absense of ABS). If not, your brakes are not good enough. How many engines are capable of spinning the tyres at any speed?

      Failure to understand the difference between inertia and torque.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    119. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You CAN turn the car off while driving. just press the ignition button for 3 seconds.
      I agree with all the other posters on this forum. These people should learn to operate their vehicles before traveling at 97 mph on the highway. IDIOTS.
        You can also put the car in neutral under acceleration.
      LEARN HOW TO DRIVE.

    120. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Don't the vehicles involved in these incidents have Event Data Recorders? It seems they could be checked to determine throttle and brake position.

    121. Re:Floor mat, really? by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      I used to have a gutless wonder '80 Mazda 626. The engine was so weak that if you were on any sort of incline at all, you'd have to goose the throttle significantly as you let up the clutch or the engine would die. If you were on a steep freeway offramp waiting for a green light, you'd have to operate the clutch with your left foot, the brake with your right heel, and the accelerator with your right toe to keep from rolling backwards or killing the engine.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    122. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not true.

      The higher your engine RPM, the less power it has. Um, QED beyotch!

    123. Re:Floor mat, really? by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      Almost sounds like bad debouncing in the switch. You click it up once, and the un-debounced signal gets interpretted as 20-40 individual up clicks.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    124. Re:Floor mat, really? by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      Ah...nevermind. If your name and sig are not untrue, I suspect you are quite familiar with debouncing.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    125. Re:Floor mat, really? by qmetaball · · Score: 1

      this is bullshit logic, tractor pull trucks have engines bigger than anything you could stop with the kind of brakes you could fit behind those wheels. we're talking production cars here, by law, street legal cars must have brakes strong enough to overpower the engine, that is to say, you must be able to push the brake pedal down, floor the gas pedal, and not move the car.

      --
      Everything is porn to somebody.
    126. Re:Floor mat, really? by qmetaball · · Score: 1

      i have never seen a car that shuts off the engine if you press both pedals.

      --
      Everything is porn to somebody.
    127. Re:Floor mat, really? by alexo · · Score: 1

      power-assisted brakes, which operate by drawing vacuum power from the engine. But when an engine opens to full throttle, the vacuum drops, and after one or two pumps of the brake pedal the power assist feature disappears.

      Can anyone verify this?

      Also, is there a similar effect on power-assisted steering or does it use a different mechanism?

    128. Re:Floor mat, really? by ubercam · · Score: 1

      My car (2002 VW Jetta TDI) has a drive by wire system and if you are moving, pressing the go pedal and the brake at the same time cancels the input from the go pedal. Imagine you're driving at night and an animal jumps out in front of you and you hammer the brake but your foot isn't quite centred and you hit the throttle at the same time. This prevents that from having any effect. You can floor it and nothing happens till you take your foot off the brake. If you're stationary you can have the brakes on and rev the engine. The only annoying thing is that if you want to flash your brake lights at some douche behind you who hasn't shut off their brights, you end up slowing down a bit because it cancels the throttle.

      Does Toyota's system have a failsafe like this? There really aren't any reason why you'd have to push the gas and the brake at the same time if you're moving.

    129. Re:Floor mat, really? by Tablizer · · Score: 1

      Getting the car moving on an incline is probably the most convincing reason

      Please clarify. My manual shift used to drift backward on hills, but I've never used an automatic that did.

      Then again, you're a slashdotter! You probably think it's cool as hell that the computer is driving the car, and want every car to be driven by a computer. Asshole.

      I don't know about that specific case, but you're doing a great job selling the concept that computers are more pleasant than humans.
           

    130. Re:Floor mat, really? by epyx · · Score: 1

      Except that you're talking about braking with the engine decoupled from the transmission. Compare the 0-60 time to the 60-0 time while you're maintaining throttle for a more accurate test.

    131. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Yeah, I'm getting confused too.

      We're talking about a situation where the car is out of control here. We're not making right hand turns from a stop or anything. How much hard steering are you doing?

      Seriously, on a car with a stopped engine, if you use up all the power steering pressure before you use up all the forward momentum, wow!

      Same with power brakes. It is astonishing that someone can be going fast enough that their hydraulic assist can run out before the car is, in fact, stopped. Not as impossible as braking, someone going 120 mph downhill might, in fact, run out.

      Which isn't that important, as you can still stop the car using non-powdered brakes, but whatever.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    132. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Lol, no kidding, I am sick of those loosers!

    133. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Nonono.

      If you kill the engine you should not shift to neutral.

      That way the engine drag will slow you down.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    134. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      In all the cars I've driven, if you cut the engine while it's still turning, you keep power steering.

      I used to think that, I though that my power steering was operating off the movement of my wheels. Because it seemed to last as long as I was going forward.

      Now I'm not so certain. I think what's actually going on is, like you said, all you can do with a stopped engine is make small corrections or the car stops anyway from losing momentum.

      So a small reservoir of pressure would be more than enough to cover you until then.

      One day, I need to find a hill with a slope and go down it in neutral with the engine off...and see if I magically gain power steering and braking halfway down. Or, safer, cut the engine, stop the car with the brakes, and see if I have power steering left to turn the wheels while parked.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    135. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      However:

        !brake = break

      (at least sometimes...)

    136. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Power assisted steering is not necessary (and in fact turns off on most cars) at high speeds. If you have this problem at low speeds, you don't really have a problem, now, do you (since, at low speeds, even the brakes themselves can overpower the engine, and the impending accident isn't life threatening)?

      Power assisted braking is provided by engine vacuum, which means that as long as the engine is turning over (which it will be if it is still engaged to the wheels), it is working. In fact, you will lose the power assisted braking in neutral with the engine revving as there won't be the necessary vacuum.

      Next, the steering lock WILL NOT ACTIVATE WITH THE KEYS IN THE IGNITION. If you just turn the keys without removing them (or, on manuals, pressing the key release), the wheels won't lock. This is definitely true for Toyotas as I've tried it on mine and it won't lock. As you can imagine, this is done for safety's sake.

      So, putting the car in neutral is a worse idea as you're going at high speeds and losing braking ability. You may also risk damaging the engine.

      Whereas, turning the keys to "ACC" or "OFF" means you are going to slow down, have more braking power, and not damage the engine.

    137. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      No, it shouldn't have a button...it should have a 'key', or, rather a switch that turns like a key. In the same place that keys normally are, on the steering column. Same amount of mechanical force to turn as a key.

      I think we should mandate this by law. And that it be a mechanical disconnect for both gasoline and electrical drive systems. Where it physically disconnects the gas intake or distributor voltage, and it flips a switch that stops electric power from getting to the electrical engine. And both these should fail safe to the 'nonworking' position.

      Car manufacturers, of course, would be free to leave this in the 'on' position, and implement whatever other ignition system they wanted on top of this. But that switch should be right there, ready to be rotated counter-clockwise if someone needs to disable their damn car from working in any manner until the switch is turned back.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    138. Re:Floor mat, really? by frogzilla · · Score: 1

      I usually try to stay out of the correction game but this has been making me crazy as well.

    139. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Really, all drivers need to have the various contingency plans in mind at all times.

      What drivers need to do is practice in empty parking lots. I wish the government provided some sort of practice area, and I wish that assholes turning donuts didn't result in the police thinking that you driving around and braking randomly wasn't for some good purpose.

      When I was at college, I had the good fortune of finding an empty, huge, out-of-the-way parking lot, and testing out my car in it, both in the rain and otherwise. I know roughly how my car can corner on wet ground, I know how to turn into a skid, I know how to stop my car with the accelerator floored, I tried all that stuff.

      Good thing I did...anti-lock brakes do not behave like I expected to behave. (I expected them to be near-instant on and off, not the half-second pulses they actually are.) If they had ever come on and I hadn't experienced before, I'd probably think something was wrong with my brakes.

      Seriously, that should be part of driver's ed. An actual government course where you test each thing. And the course should remain open for adults to sign up for and use, because cars change.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    140. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      If the brakes can't hold back the little bit of torque any currently-produced Toyota can muster, the vehicle is probably unsafe to start with.

      OTOH, there are a hell of a lot of people driving around with unsafe brakes.

      Hey, morons. When your brakes make noise, they need looking at! Any noise! Brakes are not supposed to make noise! In fact, they needed looked at a few thousand miles ago, before they started making noise! Noise is bad!

      Presumably current model-year Toyotas still have good brakes, though.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    141. Re:Floor mat, really? by mysidia · · Score: 1

      Despite your er, fascination with keys, I don't think they're necessary and represent a point of failure.

      I mean.. I've had problems with my key falling out of the ignition on my old car when it's in the on position, and let me tell you that's not fun, then I have to scramble around on the floor looking for the key to turn it off.

      It would be rather uncool for that to happen in an emergency.

      That doesn't seem very reliable.. a shielded two-position click button or shielded simple up/down switch is much more reliable, if a quality part is used, and won't be activated accidentally by the driver.

      They may have the downside that a kid who isn't supposed to touch the button might have an easier time hitting it than the key, but it's so minor, that it's not worth the extra risk of having keys fall out of the ignition.

      Actually, i'd rather that manufacturers were required by law to make and use only reliable components in vehicles, test everything to exacting standards, and have multiple failsafes.

      For example, the throttle should have a failsafe, that if breaking is being applied at high force, the throttle is forced to be closed.

      There should be multiple controls for safely performing a shutdown, but all of them need to be protected in a way to guarantee they can't be accidentally activated by the driver or maliciously/jokingly activated by a passenger, without the driver having warning.

    142. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      I didn't say they needed a 'key'. I said the needed a switch that is operated the same way a key ignition is now, in the same place.

      So people can find this never-before-used switch when their car is out of control and know how to operate it. Without looking.

      No, it should not have any sort of protection on it. The number of people who randomly reach though their steering wheel and bump the key off currently is near zero, and I don't see why it would increase with a switch instead.

      The key falling out is, indeed, an actual problem on really shitty cars, but not actually relevant if there's a switch without a key.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    143. Re:Floor mat, really? by choprboy · · Score: 1

      I do not know about the latest Prius, however neither an early Prius I rented several years ago, nor my current truck, have an indication of the set speed. Only an indication of whether or not the cruise control is on is given.

    144. Re:Floor mat, really? by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      Please post to YouTube and provide a link.

      heh, that was going to be my response as well. Besides proving it to be real, it prevents 'the dealer' from just papering over the issue on an ad-hoc basis.

      Being that this is a Pious, I'd assume that it'd be easy to re-program? I have to admit, I must not understand how these kinds of cars are programmed to not test boundary conditions. Here, fellas, tell me why this is crazy:


      if (command == ACCELERATE) {
          if (car.speed > 10 && car.brake > 0) {
                  continue;
          }
          car.accelerate(1);
      }

      Or do we have these checks but maybe some sort of controller here that's gone off the reservation and eventually gets reset by a watchdog?

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    145. Re:Floor mat, really? by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      Turning off the engine should basically be a last resort to be used only if the transmission won't go to neutral. You're probably out a few grand if your car is fucked this badly.

      Eh? Stopping an engine at speed won't cause a few grand in damage. Did I misunderstand?

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    146. Re:Floor mat, really? by Rising+Ape · · Score: 1

      Then perhaps you'd care to enlighten me? Both are caused by a greater torque being applied to the wheel (by the engine or brake) than the friction of the tyre on the road can handle, thus causing the wheel to rotate at an incorrect speed.

      The two are the same, just in the opposite direction.

    147. Re:Floor mat, really? by hmar · · Score: 1

      The problem with this logic is that a car designed with power steering is vastly more difficult to control when said power steering fails than had the car not had it to begin with. that 8000lb truck has mechanical steering designed to function without power assist. When power steering fails you have no assistance, power or mechanical, to fall back on.

    148. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Come on, give them a brake, this is slashdot after all.

    149. Re:Floor mat, really? by icebike · · Score: 1

      But you will still be able to stop the car with a lot of pressure, something a full grown highway patrol officer should be able to do.

      Really people, stop with these redundant posts about how power assists work, and read the FHSA regs. Brakes MUST WORK in the absence of power assist. Its the law.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    150. Re:Floor mat, really? by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      More likely your cars did not have enough brake.

    151. Re:Floor mat, really? by StayFrosty · · Score: 1

      Honestly -- if your vehicle is so big that you can't steer it at (say) 30mph without power assist, you probably shouldn't be driving it. American cars have just gotten too damn big.

      Yeah, cause the average car on the road in the US today is so much bigger than a 1954 Packard Clipper (or any other random land barge made from the 1950's to the mid to late 1970's.) Interestingly enough, power steering and brakes were options on a lot of cars made during this era. They are actually pretty easy to steer.

      --
      "Frequently wrong, never in doubt."
    152. Re:Floor mat, really? by Lars+T. · · Score: 1

      Nope, it's not true for the ZR1, BMW or Lamborghini either. All of these cars not only have uprated engines, but uprated brakes also.

      Yeah, actually sounds more like (some of) the old American Muscle Cars.

      --

      Lars T.

      To the guy who modded me down from perfect to terrible Karma - Apple haters still suck

    153. Re:Floor mat, really? by FrankieBaby1986 · · Score: 1

      Yes, if you have a manual, I forgot that case since most cars are auto in the US. In my car, I'd have to shift into "2" or "1" (which, depending on speed, could be bad) to get any real slowdown. However, many auto trans cars only have P, R, D, and N.

      --
      ERROR: SIG NOT FOUND (A)bort, (R)etry, (F)ail?:
    154. Re:Floor mat, really? by Nicolay77 · · Score: 1

      It helps stabilize some cars under turning and braking at high speed.

      --
      We are Turing O-Machines. The Oracle is out there.
    155. Re:Floor mat, really? by Hatta · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I sure hope you've contacted your dealer, the government, and a lawyer.

      --
      Give me Classic Slashdot or give me death!
    156. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The car didn't slow down because they thought they were pressing the brake, but they were pressing the gas.

    157. Re:Floor mat, really? by Froster · · Score: 1

      I can't provide an exhaustive list, but I can give at least one brand example - every recent VW/Audi has this. I may be wrong that the feature is widespread among other brands, but it certainly is a part of VW AG's products.

      There is an article from IEEE Spectrum's Risk Factor Blog about the number of design faults that may have contributed to these crashes.

    158. Re:Floor mat, really? by Entropius · · Score: 1

      I think it's the motion of the engine, not the wheels. The engine turns the power steering pump, which makes the magic happen.

      In a situation like this, if you cut the engine but don't put the car in neutral (or put in the clutch), the engine is still engaged, so the forward momentum of the car keeps it turning and keeps the power steering active.

    159. Re:Floor mat, really? by modecx · · Score: 1

      60 Minutes or one of the other contemporary news shows also covered this serious "problem" with the Audi 5000. The mechanics apparently had to do some serious modifications to "make" the car rev uncontrollably. But the breaks are more than enough to counter the engine torque anyway. So. Yeah. Driver error. //Owner of a mighty awesome Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro. Wish they still made equivalent vehicles.

      --
      Constitutional rights may be respected, repealed, or modified; but they must never be ignored.
    160. Re:Floor mat, really? by Divebus · · Score: 1

      Oh, yeah... if you stand on the brakes, the engine isn't pushing you anywhere. If you're driving along and catch that accelerator linkage with your brake foot, you speed up, panic and mash the pedal harder speeding up more. The travel limit of the accelerator (floored) stops your foot and equates to only light braking pressure. If you don't realize the pressure on your toes is holding up the works... Morley Safer shows up at your house with a camera crew.

      I loved my Audi 5000(s). I had three of them - '79, '84 Avant Wagon and '84 Sedan, and two 100 LS's; '74 and '76.. not all at once, of course - no more than two at a time.

      --

      Most of the stuff on /. won't survive first contact with facts.
    161. Re:Floor mat, really? by Fahrvergnuugen · · Score: 1

      Brakes MUST WORK in the absence of power assist

      Yeah, if the engine stalls. What if it's stuck at WOT? You missed the point of my post.

      --
      Kiteboarding Gear Mention slashdot and get 10% off!
    162. Re:Floor mat, really? by jamesh · · Score: 1

      Actually I think you may be right... now that you mention it I do seem to remember that in any car i've driven recently the key needs to be removed to engage the steering column lock. Maybe I was being a little overzealous in my recommendations...

    163. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If you are using the arch of your foot on the brake pedal - you're doing it wrong.
      You should ALWAYS be using the ball of your foot for sensitivity reasons, failure to do so is driver error.
      Please submit your licence to the nearest DOT office for cancellation.

    164. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Ah, that makes even more sense.

      So if I start coasting down a hill with the car in gear, but without the engine operating, I should find myself with power steering. Likewise, if I do it with the car in neutral, I shouldn't get it.

      I'll have to try that one day.

      Anyway, anyone who runs out of power steering while trying to stop a car is not seriously trying to stop the car.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    165. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      You still get some slowdown even in automatics.

      Essentially, there's no reason not to stay in gear. It's entirely a waste of time to shift into neutral, and a distraction in an emergency. Turn off the key, and then brake.(1) Or, hell, coast to a stop.

      Also, all automatics that I've ever seen in my entire life have a 1st and a 2nd on the gearshift. Which you should not shift into until you've slowed to about 30 MPH or so for 2, or you will blow up your transmission.

      In fact, there's not really much of an advantage to do it manually...by the time you've gotten slow enough to do that, the situation is mostly under control. Just totally ignore your gearshift. Cut engine, coast/brake to a stop.

      1) Now, if the key won't turn, feel free to not deal with it and shift into neutral instead.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    166. Re:Floor mat, really? by ProfBooty · · Score: 1

      I find it odd that the safety center director made those coments when peope do exactly that while participating in HPDE's. You just press the pedal harder.

      What is more scary is not when you loose vaccum assist (turn off your motor while driving and you will be able to brake just fine) but when your brakes are overheated and the pedal goes right to the floor with very little braking due to boiled fluid.

      --
      Bring back the old version of slashdot.
    167. Re:Floor mat, really? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      yeah man, give me a brake.

    168. Re:Floor mat, really? by qc_dk · · Score: 1

      Clutch, brake and emergency brake. Turn the key to shut down the engine, then turn it back on. The engine came back to full power and the brake assist too.

      Basically windows saved me, I knew my best bet was to reboot the ECU. :-)

    169. Re:Floor mat, really? by uninformedLuddite · · Score: 1

      strange sort of 'feature'

      --
      The new right fascists are bilingual. They speak English and Bullshit.
    170. Re:Floor mat, really? by metamatic · · Score: 1

      Also, all automatics that I've ever seen in my entire life have a 1st and a 2nd on the gearshift.

      You haven't seen a Prius. It has no 1st or 2nd, because it has no conventional gearbox. The gearshift has reverse, neutral, and drive.

      --
      GCHQ Quantum Insert installed. If only our tongues were made of glass, how much more careful we would be when we speak
    171. Re:Floor mat, really? by metamatic · · Score: 1

      No, it shouldn't have a button...it should have a 'key', or, rather a switch that turns like a key. In the same place that keys normally are, on the steering column. Same amount of mechanical force to turn as a key.

      Why?

      I'm a Prius owner, and I've never had any other car. I find the power button right there in front of me to be far easier to find than any key. When I occasionally have to deal with a rental car, fiddling with the key is awkward and error-prone.

      You just like keys because it's what you're used to. If we're going to standardize on something as important as this, why not take the time to do some UI work and determine what would actually be the most safe and easy to operate in the event of an accident? I'm betting that turning a metal key in a rotary lock would not be the answer.

      --
      GCHQ Quantum Insert installed. If only our tongues were made of glass, how much more careful we would be when we speak
    172. Re:Floor mat, really? by adavidw · · Score: 1

      Um, no it doesn't. I can't speak to the 2010, because that's a total redesign, but on the 2004-2009 tapping the power button at speed does absolutely nothing.

    173. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      AT NO POINT DO I WANT A KEY.

      Christ, people seem unable to actually read what I write.

      I want a rotating switch that rotates the same as a key. In the same place.

      So that people can find it.

      And we aren't 'going to standardize' on this, we, um, already did. Decades ago.

      In 99.9% of every car ever made, you find the emergency cutoff on the steering column, or sometimes on the dash directly to the left of it. It is a rotating switch that is you turn counter-clockwise to disable the engine. That is where they are.

      They're posing as a 'key' right now that also is where you start, stop, and secure the car if you remove it, but I have no problem if that functionality goes away. The emergency cutoff, however, is a safety feature that must remain.

      And if all other functions of it go away, if you can operate the car without even knowing where the emergency cutoff switch is, it's even more important to keep it in the standard location and operated the standard way. So that people aren't looking for it the very first time during an emergency. (Which this article rather proves, as these cars have the ability to cut the engine...and the drivers did not know how to do it!)

      I have no problem with anything else the car makers want to add. If they want to add a big red button with a molly guard somewhere else that does the same thing, fine by me. Put on the middle of the dash for all I care. (I recommend adding one where the backseat can get to it, that is activated and deactivated via the child-lock mechanism.)

      But if there is anything in a car that we should standardize on by law, it's the location of a damn emergency cutoff switch so the driver can turn things off without having to figure out where it is. And, considering that almost every car throughout history already has it in certain place, one that the driver can find without looking, and the passenger can even reach, I think it's reasonable to standardize on it there.

      And, also, it shouldn't be 'switch by wire'. It should be a nice mechanical thing that physically disconnects all electricity to all electric engines and gas pumps.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    174. Re:Floor mat, really? by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Well, no, I haven't, but a hybrid wouldn't work that way anyway, because the wheels aren't hooked to the engine.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    175. Re:Floor mat, really? by Fahrvergnuugen · · Score: 1
      --
      Kiteboarding Gear Mention slashdot and get 10% off!
  6. Cars, floor mats and old people by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    A very dangerous combination...

  7. No fault? by BoneFlower · · Score: 1

    What exactly were they testing?

    Were they testing implementation of the design and build quality issues, or were they reviewing the design itself?

    Passing the former by no means guarantees you'll pass the latter.

    That said, are there any reports of this happening in vehicles that for whatever reason lack floor mats?

    1. Re:No fault? by afidel · · Score: 1

      Yes, on the show tonight they had someone who had the same issue with I believe it was a Highlander that did not have the mats that were implicated in the recall.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
  8. It's those damn HAMs again! by Stupendoussteve · · Score: 2, Funny

    There you have it, the HAM in the truck in the other lane rag chewing on HF about his new rig has managed to seize control of the Prius.

    I for one welcome our RC Prius wielding retired overlords.

    Hihi

  9. No such problem with my Prius by linuxguy · · Score: 0

    I own a 2005 Prius. My wife and I have been driving it around for years and not once have we noticed a sudden acceleration. We recently bought a 2003 Toyota Sienna mini van and drove it around the country, putting several thousands of miles on it. Never noticed any sudden acceleration with that vehicle either.

    This is only anecdotal evidence, but combined with all the various investigations that the govt. has done I am thinking that this is a non-issue.

    1. Re:No such problem with my Prius by Stupendoussteve · · Score: 1

      Note that hundreds are reporting the story, out of the tens or hundreds of thousands sold. It is probably an isolated issue if it even exists and not necessarily easy to replicate. I wouldn't expect a single person, or person that person knew, to actually have this issue.

      If it is the floormats, they are an issue themselves. It seems silly to recall a vehicle due to floormats or a gas pedal, but if need be.

    2. Re:No such problem with my Prius by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      Its the Last Bug which is always impossible to find.

    3. Re:No such problem with my Prius by royallthefourth · · Score: 1

      I too have an anecdote.

      My 2009 Yaris has never accelerated fast enough to cause trouble either. In fact, it couldn't if it tried!

    4. Re:No such problem with my Prius by bennomatic · · Score: 1

      "Recall" doesn't mean that they take the whole car back. It means you get a notice to come into the dealership, they fix what's wrong--i.e. replacing the overly-aggressive floor mats--and you take it away later that day. Only serious, serious recalls mean the owner giving up the car.

      --
      The CB App. What's your 20?
    5. Re:No such problem with my Prius by Fulcrum+of+Evil · · Score: 1

      A Prius has 400 ft lbs at a standing start. Is that enough go juice? :)

      --
      "We returned the General to El Salvador, or maybe Guatemala, it's difficult to tell from 10,000 feet"
    6. Re:No such problem with my Prius by Techman83 · · Score: 2, Funny

      Nah your thinking of Volkswagon, this is a Toyota article.

      --
      # cat /dev/mem | strings | grep -i cat
      Damn, my RAM is full of cats. MEOW!!
    7. Re:No such problem with my Prius by Entropius · · Score: 1

      I bought an '09 Yaris this year, and quickly found myself doing 90 on the freeway, not aware of my speed because the car's so quiet. It's no speed demon, but it's not that slow.

      The transmission is geared for efficiency rather than power, though -- so if you want acceleration you need to downshift.

  10. Yes, and a bunch of Audi Senile Sitizens concur by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    How many times has the Audi science been reaffirmed (answer: too many times to even mention) that shows that a bunch of old, sensory input deprived, "should not be driving" people press the ACCELERATOR instead of the BRAKE, not because of a bad design, or because of some "computer" malfunction (dear sir: the "computer" (DME) that controls the engine has NOTHING to do with the brakes, you senile retards), but because OLD FUCKING PEOPLE CAN'T FUCKING DRIVE AND PRESS THE WRONG PEDAL.

    THIS WOULD HAPPEN EVEN IF THESE FUCKTARDS WERE DRIVING MOPEDS.

    The answer is: take their licenses away, NOT improve technology so they can continue their hazardous, reckless, wanton travel.

    1. Re:Yes, and a bunch of Audi Senile Sitizens concur by ResidntGeek · · Score: 1

      Someone's been reading too much P.J. O'Rourke.

      --
      ResidntGeek
    2. Re:Yes, and a bunch of Audi Senile Sitizens concur by MasterOfGoingFaster · · Score: 1

      Wrong. See my post above about my Audi experience and what I believe to be the root cause - the cruse control, and a malfunction in the brake assist check valve.

      --
      Place nail here >+
  11. Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by scotts13 · · Score: 5, Insightful

    And again, nothing was ever found to be wrong with the cars. Seems most of the drivers were used to American cars, and the Audi had both brake and accelerator a little to the right of the more typical position. They were pressing the accelerator instead of the brake. Fact is, in almost all commonly available cars, if you stand on the brake and on the accelerator simultaneously, the car will go nowhere. For events to have happened as described, you'd need the simultaneous failure of two unrelated systems, which both healed themselves miraculously after the event. Additionally, same as last time, there are a few unfortunate cases followed by a deluge of similar claims. I wonder why...

    1. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by sjames · · Score: 4, Informative

      In the case of the state trooper, witnesses did report that the brakes were on fire as he went by.

      I'm presuming not so much actual flames as burned up brake pads billowing smoke.

    2. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by IntlHarvester · · Score: 1

      True, but if you've ever been in those 1980s cars, the German ones had 3 inch wide pedals, while the typical wife's GM station wagon had a 10 inch wide brake pedal. Its an understandable user error.

      The difference in modern auto ergonomics is no longer that great, and these Toyota models are designed for the US market. Furthermore, many of the Toyota cases happened at highway speeds, versus in the driveway. So while they shouldn't rule out 'user error', the facts are different enough to warrant an investigation and not just dismiss it as Audi-style housewife error.

      --
      Business. Numbers. Money. People. Computer World.
    3. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by SteveWoz · · Score: 2, Interesting

      My 2010 Prius has a package that includes parallel parking assist and cruise control distance limiter. In some fictional state (let's say 'private property') I tap my cruise control speed lever up and the car speed increases from 80 to 81.I tap this leve again and again, up to 83 mph. Then I tap it again and the car takes off without speed limiting. Tapping this lever down has no effect. The car is shortly up to maybe 97 mph. I repeated this many times.

      One doesn't think of things like putting the car in neutral instantly.

      The natural braking action does disable this effect.

      --
      OK a new size TV
    4. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Funnily enough I had this happen in an Audi with a CVT, though it wasn't sustained and a brief crack on the brakes halted it it wasn't terribly comfortable. It happened a while later while stopped at the lights, though I had my foot on the brake so I didn't go anywhere but the revs surged briefly and it tried to push forward. I can't imagine any kind of accelerator lock down that couldn't be beaten by hitting the brakes though, or the natural instinct to knock it into neutral.

    5. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Tablizer · · Score: 1

      If that happened to me just once and the mechanic couldn't find any problem, I'd likely sell the sucker. I wonder, though, if I could be sued for not telling the new buyer. The mechanic would have it on record. And, I'd feel guilty if I didn't tell the buyer. It's sticky no matter what (semi-intentional pun).

    6. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Having worked in C++ for a while now, let me just say this: "Never say that a program can't fail in that way."
      I have seen the craziest shit ever here. Programs that SHOULD NOT RUN! Seriously! Temporary programs that just worked for a few months, nobody ever questioned them not working the way they should, and stuff built on top of them. Suddenly someone decides to do their job the way they should in the first place, and complains that "it's not working." I peep under the hood and see someone's half-finished game of mousetrap.

      If it cannot be done programmatically, I guarantee you it IS done that way somewhere. You just can't see it until you see it.

    7. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by BoneFlower · · Score: 1

      In switch statements, it's interesting how enlightening putting this in the default case can be:

      cout "This should never be seen\n";

      And by all apparent logic, it shouldn't. Should be impossible to get the right value into the right variable.

      Of course, there is always some silly error, or "this will work ok" shortcut, or maybe "screw it, I'll fix it later I'm on a deadline", and those messages get seen.

      I do find defaults like this to be very useful though, if I don't need the default for something else it can be a very fast way to find subtle but serious bugs in the code. I'll use the default for something else if the problem warrants, but "impossible" values get assigned often enough that I find this to be a good "default default".

    8. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by dattaway · · Score: 4, Informative

      I have a 2009 Highlander Hybrid. It happened to me last week. No floormats to get in the way. Accelerator pedal returned to "home: position. The event went like this: full acceleration by me to merge into traffic and complete release of accelerator. The acceleration continued at 100% for another full second. Over 150KW of power. Now I wonder what kind of computer fault would have happened if I had pressed on the brake to compensate for the uncontrolled acceleration.....

    9. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      At least it was a Prius. You probably had time to read the morning paper and shave your face before the car got to 97mph.

    10. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Fact is, in almost all commonly available cars, if you stand on the brake and on the accelerator simultaneously, the car will go nowhere. For events to have happened as described, you'd need the simultaneous failure of two unrelated systems, which both healed themselves miraculously after the event.

      No. From the IEEE Spectrum:
      Tests indicate that a person would have to exert 225 pounds of pressure on a brake pedal to stop it - a mean feat for almost anyone, let alone a person trying to keep a car on the road while avoiding hitting anything as it is traveling at 176 feet per second.

      http://spectrum.ieee.org/blog/computing/it/riskfactor/how-hard-should-it-be-to-stop-a-runaway-car

    11. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      > One doesn't think of things like putting the car in neutral instantly.

      One doesn't? I would say, in that case, that one needs more practice and experience driving.

      Once, when I did something stupid... I drove wearing new and bulky (platform) shoes I wasn't used to yet... and I managed to get my right foot jammed in such a way that I couldn't get it off the accelerator; It took less than a second before my left foot came down on the clutch and I had my car in neutral. It happened so fast, I don't think I thought about it at all. It was like a reflex. If "shifting into neutral" is really such a trying task for someone; then maybe that person shouldn't be on the road in the first place.

    12. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by DirePickle · · Score: 2, Insightful

      In a manual, shifting into neutral (depressing the clutch) is something you're going to do many many many many times in any given trip. It is ingrained in your reflexes along with braking. Plus, your foot is always in a position that it can get to the clutch in a hurry. In an automatic, shifting is something you usually do twice a trip. Once from P->D and once from D->P. And most automatic drivers' hands aren't resting on the stick for a quick shift.

    13. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by nedlohs · · Score: 1

      If you are already moving at highway speeds when you jam the brake and accelerator you are going to keep moving.

      http://spectrum.ieee.org/blog/computing/it/riskfactor/how-hard-should-it-be-to-stop-a-runaway-car claims that "Tests indicate that a person would have to exert 225 pounds of pressure on a brake pedal to stop it " where it is a Lexus ES 350 with the throttle stuck on full open. Because the power assist fails after you panic pump the brakes...

      Assuming you don't cut the engine of course, which given the strangeness of that car - no key to turn to kill the engine, non-standard tricky (in a panic situation) way to get it into neutral - doesn't seem that strange.

    14. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Recovery1 · · Score: 1

      Something else bothering me about the case of the state trooper as well that your comment got me thinking. I mean, he is a state trooper. Don't state troopers have special training to deal with the handling of vehicles in emergency situations? If so wouldn't he have known to put it in neutral? He had enough time to do that because his brother was in the back seat and made a 911 call and from what we know the brakes were pressed so hard that they were burning up. That doesn't happen right away unless you have gone quite a few miles with them applied.

    15. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Rockoon · · Score: 1

      I'm not so sure about the "unless you have gone quite a few miles" thinking.

      These cars also have wired braking systems and I simply have no idea how much pressure these wire systems can put on the brakes in a situation where the sensors never witness the tires slowing down, as I suspect the response to such a condition is to keep increasing the pressure.

      As far as putting it in neutral.. maybe he did (are you sure that neutral does what is traditionally expected in these new cars?) .. or maybe hes stupid..

      --
      "His name was James Damore."
    16. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Why the fuck are you posting this same crap AGAIN??

      Mod whore.

    17. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      In an automatic, shifting is something you usually do twice a trip. Once from P->D and once from D->P.

      Only if you aren't encountering any hills. Maybe it's because my vehicles are a bit anemic and I like to drive the piss out of them, but I pretty much always downshift manually when going up a hill to save myself a bunch of useless shifts; at bare minimum I have to disable overdrive, especially on my F250. Nobody wants the automatic behind a 7.3 turbo diesel to be shifting back and forth continually. It takes quite some time to get into 3rd from OD on a C6.

      If you can't grab the shift lever and slam it into neutral any old time, then you shouldn't be driving. No excuses, please! Cars and trucks are heavy machinery (mine range from around 2750 up to over 8000 lbs) and you have a significant responsibility to drive them responsibly.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    18. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by ed1park · · Score: 1

      1. There was something wrong with the Audis. The throttle and brake pedals were too close together.

      2. The problems with the Lexus/Toyotas have not been reproducible. The Audi problems were reproducible with video cameras pointed at the feet. Toyota blames the floor mats, but no one has been able to reproduce it as far as I can tell. Regardless, the floor mats may not be the only culprit. (Therac-25 had multiple bugs.)

      3. For events to have happened as described, the code and designs for the system need to be open for peer review and testing before anyone can make any conclusive claim. (One can only guess at how comprehensive the investigations have been.)

      4. Go read about the Therac25.
      http://courses.cs.vt.edu/cs3604/lib/Therac_25/Therac_1.html
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Therac-25

    19. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Ogive17 · · Score: 1

      A few years ago after we got 3-4" of snow I was leaving work and screwing around and decided to pull the e-brake going about 15-20mph in my civic si (manual). It was stupid and I almost spun the car out in the middle of the road (fish tailed about 180 degrees). Well it never occured to me to throw it in neutral.. in fact I think by the time I got it going straight again I had the brake pressed, no clutch, and I was very close to stalling out the car. The whole event probably lasted about 3 seconds...

      Just trying to say that even though it's much easier to pop a M/T into neutral during an emergency.. when something unexpected occurs it's probably not your first instinct.

      --
      "Action without philosophy is a lethal weapon; philosophy without action is worthless."
    20. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Astronomerguy · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I have an automatic '06 Toyota Matrix. At least 5 times now, while stopped at a red light and my foot was on the brake pedal, the engine RPMS shot up suddenly and the engine was roaring like I was getting ready to start a street race. Each time the car wanted to surge forward, and each time I stood on the brakes and threw the gear-shift into neutral. I could never reproduce it and the dealership could offer no explanation nor did they have any interest in looking into it. The floor mat was definitely not a participant in these very disconcerting incidents.

    21. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by sjames · · Score: 1

      According to other reports I've read on that, even though it's an automatic, getting it into neutral is more difficult than would normally be expected. It's apparently designed not to let you make that 'mistake' easily.

    22. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Interesting

      Many years ago I had a Mercedes 280SE 4.5 -- a wonderful sedan with their first injected V8 crammed into the engine compartment. The injector controller lived at the front right by the radiator. Normally the car ran perfectly, but sometimes if I was stopped at a light next to someone visibly talking on a CB, the engine would start missing badly. When the other vehical moved away the idle stabilized and I could pull away. Of course, the dealer could never find a problem -- but the circumstances seemed quite clear. My experience makes me wonder how many of these issues have a root cause in RFI?

    23. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Toad-san · · Score: 1

      That trooper needs to get a different day job.

      Because any yoyo frozen to a wheel, stomping on his brake (to the point of smoke) and NOT thinking to "Take the stupid g*dd*mned car out of gear, stupid!" ... isn't safe on a highway at all, much less be considered for any high speed chase.

      Now if this were a straight shift, and the clutch failed as well, I could see a problem. But it is NOT hard to just slip the shift into neutral. Let the damned engine rev until it explodes. Screw the engine.

      But nooooo ... freeze on the wheel, stomp on the brakes, brain off. Atta boy, dummy.

    24. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by qmetaball · · Score: 1

      you might want to check for vaccuum leaks or the like, i've got an 86 ford that does the same thing sometimes and it's got a cable throttle.

      --
      Everything is porn to somebody.
    25. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by ucblockhead · · Score: 1

      I have a Prius with a push button ignition. When I first heard about this I realized that I hadn't actually ever put the thing in neutral in the two years I owned the car and wasn't entirely sure how it worked. I went to the garage and it actually took me three attempts to do it the first time because of the way the lever is designed. (Over and up is drive, over and down is reverse, just over is neutral. It is very easy to accidentally go up as that's what your muscle memory is used to and you barely have to nudge it up.)

      --
      The cake is a pie
    26. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Interesting

      I have a 2009 Highlander Hybrid. It happened to me last week. No floormats to get in the way. Accelerator pedal returned to "home: position. The event went like this: full acceleration by me to merge into traffic and complete release of accelerator. The acceleration continued at 100% for another full second. Over 150KW of power. Now I wonder what kind of computer fault would have happened if I had pressed on the brake to compensate for the uncontrolled acceleration.....

      That is the exact same phenomenon I have experienced in my 2004 Matrix on a couple of occasions. Press accelerator to floor to pass traffic; lift foot back, but pedal remains on floor and acceleration continues for ~5 secs, then the accelerator pedal returns to normal position. On both occasions the weather had turned rather cold after a long period of warm weather which is what I talked myself into contributing to the cause.

    27. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Yet, he was too uneducated about cars to put the thing in neutral?

    28. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "One doesn't think of things like putting the car in neutral instantly."

      I think the reasonable response to this is: why not? Supposedly people are required to take a test to demonstrate proficiency in order to legally drive. Shouldn't "proficiency" include things like handling emergency situations or mechanical failure?

      I think the biggest problem (obvious mechanical/computer bugs aside) is that most drivers are unprepared for the act of driving. Most drivers view a car as recliner that can take them places with the press of a button. The fact is that cars are machines, and machines can fail. You SHOULD be able to safely respond when your car does something weird and dangerous. If you are unable to respond to these kinds of situations, you should not be allowed to operate a vehicle - it's not like it's some sort of natural right...

    29. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by JobyOne · · Score: 1

      225 pounds on the brake pedal? That's not actually very much.

      I can lift upwards of 1,000 pounds with my calves (not including my own weight), so 225 with one of them is cake. Basically if you weigh 200 pounds ask yourself if you could stand on one leg with a 25 pound backpack. If the answer is yes then you can stop that car.

      --
      Porquoi?
    30. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by cbope · · Score: 1

      Exactly. Nothing was ever found wrong with Audi's cars. I remember that case went on for a couple years, yet no evidence could be found that the car was at fault. If I remember correctly, in the end Audi was forced to pay out to some of the "victims", even though they were never proven to have been at fault.

      Pretty soon we will not have to be responsible for our own actions in anything we ever do, we can just blame some company or product for our own mistakes.

    31. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by nedlohs · · Score: 1

      Most people don't weigh 225 pounds. Sure fat ass Americans maybe, but normal people don't. I don't weigh that much, my wife weighs about a third of that.

      You are also trying to steer a car going 90mph through traffic.

      But sure dismiss it and ignore the fact that people died failing to do this very thing.

    32. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by Astronomerguy · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the tip. I'll bring that up with my mechanic next time it's in for maintenance.

    33. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by JobyOne · · Score: 1

      This has happened to me. I had my timing belt tensioner fail in a Ford Ranger going 70. The timing belt of course broke, so the engine died and I was left without power steering or power brakes (in a small truck with really terrible handling, no less).

      You know what I did? I didn't panic. First I tried to start it up again with the clutch in. When that didn't work I hit my turn signal and flashed my brakes, eased across the 3 lanes of traffic, parked in a parking lot with my remaining momentum and waited for the towtruck.

      I never said it wasn't a dangerous situation, I just said it's not as dangerous as people are making it out to be. Like most emergencies you'll be alright if you just keep your wits about you (which most people don't).

      And don't call me fat. I'm 185 which you would call big, but I'm also 6'1". I figured 200 (not 225, read) precisely to account for those "fat ass Americans."

      --
      Porquoi?
    34. Re:Same thing happend to Audi a few years ago by nedlohs · · Score: 1

      You seriously see no difference between the engine cutting out and you losing power braking, and the engine being stuck on full throttle and you losing power braking?

      Sure you might have your wits about you be the world's greatest driver. But the guy who couldn't was a highway patrol officer and hence you would have to assume was in fact trained in how to drive a damn car and how to keep his wits in an emergency situation.

      Then again he'd been injured a few years before hand and hence not on active highway patrol duties so he might just have not been physically able any longer. And as I mentioned the car was weird so "jam it into neutral" probably didn't work for him.

      I've been in cars which have had the steering wheel come off, one of the back wheels come off, and the engine die. All while the car moving (high school was fun!). I'm still alive, so I'm not saying it's an impossible situation. But a trained professional police driver didn't manage to, so just declaring that it's easy-peasy seems just a tad optimistic

      And I didn't call you fat, I declared an unspecified subset of Americans as fat ass. My wife is American, she's certainly not fat.

  12. God damn it this again by IICV · · Score: 3, Informative

    God damn it, this again? All these "sudden acceleration" accidents are caused by morons "suddenly" putting their foot on the gas pedal. Afterwards, they say that the car accelerated by itself - and it's impossible to prove them wrong.

    1. Re:God damn it this again by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

      I saw a TV show where they interviewed people this happened to. One was on a test drive! Another recalled the smell of the brakes burning, as the motor has so much torque at 0rpm that the brakes are useless. One even put the transmission in park, to no avail. None of the stories sounded like a moron who floored it but thought they were braking.

      Of course the computer systems weren't designed to diagnose a problem like this, so there is no record of things like speed vs. pedal position as there would be in an airplane. This means that the dealership runs the standard self-check diagnostics and declares that nothing is wrong with the car, so the driver must have been mistaken. But that's like taking your computer to get fixed after some software crashed. Obviously whatever caused it to crash isn't going to be around anymore, yet nobody tells the user that it couldn't have crashed!

      Nobody's saying that floormats don't get stuck over the gas pedal every so often (it happened to me once), but there are other cases that floormats and wrong pedals don't explain. And those need to be investigated and fixed.

      dom

    2. Re:God damn it this again by c.r.o.c.o · · Score: 1

      I'm sure that someone somewhere is at this very moment pressing the acceleration pedal instead of the brake pedal, but your argument does not apply in this case. Then the problem should extend to all other vehicles manufactured in the world, but only Toyota has issued a floor mat recall.

      So there are two explanations. Either the floor mat design is at fault, in which case Toyota is responsible and has corrected the issue (it's as simple as removing the winter floor mats from the vehicle and installing the summer ones). Very sloppy floor mat design though, because I've been driving with two sets of mats every winter since I got my license 10 years ago, and not once did the acceleration pedal get stuck to the floor. If I were the exception, the aftermarket mat manufacturers would have been sued out of existence by now.

      The other explanation is that there MAY be something else wrong with the cars, and the cause is yet to be determined. One thing is certain though. If the floor mats are not at fault, more accidents will happen and some of them will happen in cars where the recall will have already been performed. I just hope no other people will die as a result.

      The only reason I can be so detached from this issue is because nobody in my family has drive-by-wire cars. I actually drive a standard car, so even if my throttle decides to go insane, all I have to do is clutch in and put it in neutral. The engine may bounce off the rev limiter, but the car won't be going anywhere.

    3. Re:God damn it this again by dissy · · Score: 1

      The only reason I can be so detached from this issue is because nobody in my family has drive-by-wire cars. I actually drive a standard car, so even if my throttle decides to go insane, all I have to do is clutch in and put it in neutral. The engine may bounce off the rev limiter, but the car won't be going anywhere.

      Well, I guess I am happy for you, that where you drive consists of no one but yourself and family members.
      That would be a pretty safe way to do it, and thusly I am glad you are safe.

      Sadly I am scared shitless, since I imagine these Toyotas will be driving on the same road I am driving on. More than likely, more than one over time.

      While I am plenty confident in my own driving skills, and I do not own one of these vehicles, neither of those facts will stop one from plowing into me :(

    4. Re:God damn it this again by Orgasmatron · · Score: 1

      Don't imagine that Toyota believes the floor mat thing.

      Back in the 80s, a kid got crushed to death between the family Audi and the back wall of the garage. His mom was pushing so hard on the "brakes" trying to stop it that she bent the gas pedal out of shape.

      Now, Audi has to say something. Option A is "You killed your own son. If you have more kids and find yourself in a similar situation in the future, take your foot off the gas, shift out of drive, or turn the key off." Option B is "The floor mat must have gotten wedged in there. Freak accident, could have happened to anyone."

      So, just because they say floor mats doesn't mean they really think it was floor mats.

      --
      See that "Preview" button?
    5. Re:God damn it this again by sarhjinian · · Score: 4, Interesting

      What's happened, in each case, is that the dealer or driver put winter floor mats, either OEM or aftermarket, on top of the regular carpeted mats. What this means is that, unlike the normal mats, they're not pinned down in any way and will slide forward. In the case of the CHP officer in the rental Lexus, the dealer slapped truck mats down on top of the "normal" Lexus mats

      What happens next is easy: the mat jams the accelerator pedal. What happens after that is that people panic, do the wrong things, and plow into people in front of them.

      And what happens after that is lawyers.

      There's no car you can buy today where you cannot overpower the engine with full braking force. Try it: stand on the accelerator with your left foot for a while, then stand on the brake. Push both down as hard as you can; your car will slow down and stop. It won't be happy about it, but it will. The drivers in this case didn't do that: they panicked and didn't press the brakes hard enough.

      Nor did the slap the car into neutral or stop the car. And yes, the car could have a gated shifter or a Prius-style stick. You can also turn the car off: even with an engine-stop button, all you need to do is holdit down. Again, in both cases it requires the driver to not panic.

      There's no real way around the human factor in this. I've seen drivers who two-foot drive. I've seen drivers who, when they're presented with a scary situation, take their hands off the wheel and cover their eyes. I've been in the car when a driver's panic reaction was to flail madly at the pedals with her feet and see-saw the wheel---in that case, the car rolled. While the floor mats can create a problem, and while Toyota could fix it by mounting them a little bit higher, you'll never truly idiot-proof a car until the car drives itself.

      The solution to the likes of this are systems like stability control, ABS, Volvo or Nissan's Lane Departure Control and Mercedes' and Lexus' Pre-Safe crash mitigation systems: keep the car on-course and stable, allow the driver to maintain control and, if a crash is imminent, apply full braking force, tighten the seatbelts and pre-charge the airbags. Oh, and call 911.

      --
      --srj/mmv
    6. Re:God damn it this again by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Using terms like 'all' proves you're an idiot. I have personal experience with unintended accelleration (in this case in a Ford) there was no confusion about where the brake was, the floor mat was exacly where it should be and not affecting the pedal in any way, and yes, putting it in neutral stopped the accelleration, but there must have also been something wrong with the rev limiter because it also physically broke off the tachometer needle (it was hanging loose at the bottom of the gauge) and blew the head gasket. Subsequently shutting it off caused it to lose power steering and braking and it was difficult to pull over to the curb safely. Vowed to never buy a Ford again.

    7. Re:God damn it this again by Tablizer · · Score: 1

      His mom was pushing so hard on the "brakes" trying to stop it that she bent the gas pedal out of shape.

      It's amazing the strength of a mother when her kids are in danger. A bond like no other. What a shame, though.
         

    8. Re:God damn it this again by Chris+Burke · · Score: 4, Funny

      Try it: stand on the accelerator with your left foot for a while, then stand on the brake.

      Trying to drum up business for your brake company, eh? This recession is tough all over.

      I've seen drivers who, when they're presented with a scary situation, take their hands off the wheel and cover their eyes.

      That's why I wear Peril Sensitive Sunglasses while driving. That way, I don't have to take my hands off the wheel to avoid seeing things that might alarm me.

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    9. Re:God damn it this again by dropadrop · · Score: 1

      I agree... My previous car was a Toyota, and I felt like the gas would get stuck in strange way's. I thought it was broken for a long time, but I could always put it down to the carpet or the shoes I was wearing (if they where very wide). I've driven a lot of different cars during my life (+50) and never experienced it with any of the others.

    10. Re:God damn it this again by lannocc · · Score: 1

      There's no car you can buy today where you cannot overpower the engine with full braking force. Try it: stand on the accelerator with your left foot for a while, then stand on the brake. Push both down as hard as you can; your car will slow down and stop.

      Of course, you can't see where you're going since you happen to be turned around in your seat!

    11. Re:God damn it this again by malv · · Score: 1

      No, I can definitely say I've had my Saturn do this and it had absolutely nothing to do with the floor mat. After almost rear-ending a guy in a drive-through the car basically would accelerate erratically and unpredictably until we took it to the dealer and the bad chip was replaced. The car was beyond dangerous and I can easily say it was infuriating to know that these things can happen, and probably do happen frequently. Nobody should lose their life because of a bug.

    12. Re:God damn it this again by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I saw a TV show where they interviewed people this happened to. One was on a test drive! Another recalled the smell of the brakes burning, as the motor has so much torque at 0rpm that the brakes are useless. One even put the transmission in park, to no avail. None of the stories sounded like a moron who floored it but thought they were braking.

      Wait, they put the transmission in Park? With the car moving at speed? And it had no effect? Horsepucky: I dare you to try that with your own car and watch what happens. Hint: you won't like it.

      As for "so much torque at 0rpm": please, have a look at a torque curve diagram. Only an electric motor can produce decent torque at that engine speed, and even the strongest electric motors in a mass-market auto are easily overwhelmed by brake force.

      The Audi 5000 case should give people pause: it was all over the media, and people swore up and down that they were standing on the brakes and/or putting the car in park. Except they weren't, they were jamming the accelerator down every single time. The case nearly destroyed Audi in North America, and none of the responsible parties, notably 60 Minutes and CBS---who faked the test outright---were ever held responsible.

      People have this, oh, I don't know, tendency to say that they're not wrong, especially if they're on public record. If I were being baited by a reported, I'd be hard-pressed to say "Nope, I didn't step on the brakes hard enough, or try shifting it, or turned it off. No sir, it was all my fault for panicking and doing the wrong thing." Hell, even if I did say that, my statement would end up in the cutting-room floor and they'd just go onto the next rube willing to perjure him/herself.

    13. Re:God damn it this again by sarhjinian · · Score: 1

      Oops. My bad.

      What I'd meant was this:

      • Stand on the accelerator with your right foot.
      • Stand on the brake with your left.
      --
      --srj/mmv
    14. Re:God damn it this again by noidentity · · Score: 1

      God damn it, this again? All these "sudden acceleration" accidents are caused by morons "suddenly" putting their foot on the gas pedal. Afterwards, they say that the car accelerated by itself - and it's impossible to prove them wrong.

      It's possible to show the likelihood of such an event by testing the vehicle many times. You might find that yes, it's fairly likely, or that it's rare, or that it has less than a 1 in a million chance.

      But I have to ask, let's say I am driving and do experience this; how can I prove it happened, and prove your "you're just an idiot" claim to be false?

    15. Re:God damn it this again by WaXHeLL · · Score: 1

      My Volkswagen GTI is drive by wire, and actually when both the accelerator and brake are held down at the same time, power is cut to the engine. I would expect most (properly built) drive by wire systems to have such a safety feature.

      It means you can't left foot brake, but most people don't left foot brake in daily driving.

      --
      The troll with karma.
    16. Re:God damn it this again by BikeHelmet · · Score: 1

      There's no real way around the human factor in this. I've seen drivers who two-foot drive. I've seen drivers who, when they're presented with a scary situation, take their hands off the wheel and cover their eyes. I've been in the car when a driver's panic reaction was to flail madly at the pedals with her feet and see-saw the wheel---in that case, the car rolled. While the floor mats can create a problem, and while Toyota could fix it by mounting them a little bit higher, you'll never truly idiot-proof a car until the car drives itself.

      I wonder what their reaction would be if they were in the situation I was in last summer?

      I was driving along a two-lane road with no dividers, and then my hands started getting itchy. I looked down, and saw little green specs all over them. Green specs...hmm...I wonder what those are? No...noo!... it couldn't be hundreds of little green bugs crawling off my wheel and onto my hands/arms, could it!?

      Well shit!!

      I pulled over quickly, but safely, and then braked really hard. I got out of the damn car and pulled my shirt off, then swiped as many of those things off as I could. Was quite a sight I imagine, for anyone driving by. :P

    17. Re:God damn it this again by Waccoon · · Score: 1

      Every car I've ever owned had the pedals attached to the console, not to a lever joint mounted on the floor. The only exception I even know about are old Porsches and VWs. The pedals are always suspended well above the floor and will never contact the floor mats, no matter how poorly the mats are designed or how far they are jammed up into the foot well. If the mats are jammed up against the pedal joint, shouldn't that prevent acceleration by not allowing the pedal to be pushed?

      I can visualize how a floor mat can end up overlapping the face of the accelerator, but not the physics to actually do it.

    18. Re:God damn it this again by otter42 · · Score: 1

      There's no car you can buy today where you cannot overpower the engine with full braking force. Try it: stand on the accelerator with your left foot for a while, then stand on the brake. Push both down as hard as you can; your car will slow down and stop. It won't be happy about it, but it will. The drivers in this case didn't do that: they panicked and didn't press the brakes hard enough.

      Unfortunately, you are categorically wrong.

      In fact, it might not be far off to say that there is not ONE SINGLE car that can be stopped with brakes alone when at full throttle. Read http://spectrum.ieee.org/blog/computing/it/riskfactor/how-hard-should-it-be-to-stop-a-runaway-car

      As for hitting the brakes to slow a car down, another issue pops up, says the Times. "The ES 350 and most other modern vehicles are equipped with power-assisted brakes, which operate by drawing vacuum power from the engine. But when an engine opens to full throttle [like in a runaway car situation], the vacuum drops, and after one or two pumps of the brake pedal, the power assist feature disappears."
      Tests indicate that a person would have to exert 225 pounds of pressure on a brake pedal to stop it - a mean feat for almost anyone, let alone a person trying to keep a car on the road while avoiding hitting anything as it is traveling at 176 feet per second.

      While what you said makes sense (and I believed the same myself until I started looking into it), it unfortunately is not the reality. You lose your power brakes at full throttle, and it seems that people are paying with their lives in these circumstances.

      I know the tendency at /. is to believe that most people are nitwits-- most of all policemen-- (a belief I tend to share), in the case of the Lexus police officer, he was trained for high speed pursuits, and witnesses say they saw smoke coming out of the brakes. Sometimes, you have to hang your beliefs at the door and examine the facts.

      --
      www.eissq.com/BandP.html Ball and Plate System. Amuse your friends. Crush your enemies.
    19. Re:God damn it this again by kannibal_klown · · Score: 1

      There's no real way around the human factor in this. I've seen drivers who two-foot drive. I've seen drivers who, when they're presented with a scary situation, take their hands off the wheel and cover their eyes. I've been in the car when a driver's panic reaction was to flail madly at the pedals with her feet and see-saw the wheel---in that case, the car rolled. While the floor mats can create a problem, and while Toyota could fix it by mounting them a little bit higher, you'll never truly idiot-proof a car until the car drives itself.

      The solution to the likes of this are systems like stability control, ABS, Volvo or Nissan's Lane Departure Control and Mercedes' and Lexus' Pre-Safe crash mitigation systems: keep the car on-course and stable, allow the driver to maintain control and, if a crash is imminent, apply full braking force, tighten the seatbelts and pre-charge the airbags. Oh, and call 911.

      I had a problem with the throttle-by-wire on my '06 Cadillac.

      After I'd owned it for a few months, the engine throttle/power would start fluxuating heavily upon acceleration. IE, alternating between 1k and 4k RPM every second.

      It took them forever to diagnose the problem; they had the car for a total of 9-12 days and refused to believe it was mechanical or electrical. They thought it was user error. The sad thing is, it was VERY reproducable yet they refused to acknowledge it. So long as you drove the thing before the temp-gauge normalized at 1/2 way you could do it 100% of the time; so from a cold start you had 5-10 minutes to reproduce it.

      On the last time they looked it at (which if they failed would qualify as lemon law) they had an engineer from the headquarters come. He found that the accelerator was faulty and sending bad signals. Apparently it would just start sending bad data to the computer. They replaced the accelerator and it was all fixed.

      9-12 days in the shop spread over a month, and it was only under the threat of "lemon law" did they acknowledge there was a problem.

    20. Re:God damn it this again by dfenstrate · · Score: 1

      That reminds me of an instance when I was a teenager, and I was letting my unlicensed friend drive.

      It was at night, on some backroads, and a rabbit ran across the road in front of us. She panic-braked and cut the wheel to the side.

      We didn't crash, but it was a dangerous over-reaction. I told her right then and there that if a little furry creature runs in front of us again, she must accept that she will kill it, because our safety and the value of the car outweighs the critter's life. Teenage girls must accept that the lives of various woodland creatures are forfeit so that they can drive.

      She kept a level head after that.

      Now somewhat ironically, accepting this makes it less likely you will actually kill a furry little woodland creature. If you have accepted it's death as a premise of driving, then you needn't panic when a squirrel runs across the road- and you can calmly make small adjustments around the critter.

      --
      Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms should be the name of a store, not a government agency.
    21. Re:God damn it this again by sarhjinian · · Score: 1

      In fact, it might not be far off to say that there is not ONE SINGLE car that can be stopped with brakes alone when at full throttle. Read http://spectrum.ieee.org/blog/computing/it/riskfactor/how-hard-should-it-be-to-stop-a-runaway-car [ieee.org]

      I managed to haul down a Honda Civic going 80km/h. Consumer Reports was able to stop a VW and a Mercedes because of their throttle management system, and was able to bring a Toyota Venza (a four thousand pound vehicle with a honey of a an engine; the same as in the Lexus in question) down to ~15km/h and would likely have eventually stopped it.

      I'd try the experiment with our own Toyota Sienna (same engine as the Venza and the Lexus) except that I don't want to damage my own car.

      It's very easy to apply 225 pounds of pressure to a brake pedal, unless you're very small. Most people can approach or exceed it by standing on one leg and jumping. The IEEE is not correct in this.

      While what you said makes sense (and I believed the same myself until I started looking into it), it unfortunately is not the reality. You lose your power brakes at full throttle, and it seems that people are paying with their lives in these circumstances.

      No, you don't. You lose braking force after one or two presses at full throttle, just as you would if the car lost power entirely. Pumping or repeatedly stabbing the brakes will use up that assist and/or boil the brake fluid and/or heat the pads and rotors. Stomping on it will just heat the rotors and pads, and will slow you down.

      I'm not saying this isn't a tragedy, because it is. What I am saying is that it was entirely unavoidable:

      • The dealer laid down the wrong mats for the car (winter mats for a truck, FWIW)
      • The dealer put those mats on top of the existing, clipped-down mats, and didn't secure them.
      • The accelerator pedal is mounted as such that the mats could snag it (lots of cars are like this)
      • The driver, despite being a trained CHP officer, panicked and did the wrong things. You can slap a Lexus ES into neutral easily---even if it's in the manumatic gate, you can move it over and up. He likely pumped, rather than stood, on the brakes. He also didn't hold down the engine stop button to halt the car, or use the emergency/parking brake

      People tend to think about driver training as the cure-all or panacea, but training, especially in an emergency, is not a given. People---even cops---panic, especially in an unfamiliar or out-of-context setting and do the wrong thing despite training to the contrary. Never mind that what you do in a controlled, high-speed chase as a highway patrol officer is not the same thing as being in the car that's speeding.

      The only people with "training" in this are drifters, rally-racers and stunt drivers.

      --
      --srj/mmv
    22. Re:God damn it this again by GeckoAddict · · Score: 1

      Try it: stand on the accelerator with your left foot for a while, then stand on the brake. Push both down as hard as you can; your car will slow down and stop. It won't be happy about it, but it will.

      And then you can take your car to the nearest shop for new brakes, rotors, and a handful of other things that could go horribly wrong during this 'experiment'.

    23. Re:God damn it this again by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "The drivers in this case didn't do that: they panicked and didn't press the brakes hard enough."

      You're an ijit.

    24. Re:God damn it this again by snspdaarf · · Score: 1

      I don't put mine on until the tomato throws itself out of the car.

      --
      Why, without your clothes, you're naked, Miss Dudley!
    25. Re:God damn it this again by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      There's no car you can buy today where you cannot overpower the engine with full braking force.

      You sir, are mistaken. The Camaro, Corvette, Cadillac XTS all have engines capable of moving the vehicle while applying full pressure to brakes. All at less than 2900 RPM.

      Disclaimer: I am a mechanic.

    26. Re:God damn it this again by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      No kidding. One person wrecks their car, and all the sudden everyone else magically remembers that their Toyota accelerates out of control.

      Learn how to drive, you fucks. No other Toyoya drivers died from this problem or even reported it until recently. Stop putting your foot on the fucking gas pedal and using cruise control for everything. It saddens me to see more frivolous lawsuits.

    27. Re:God damn it this again by gordguide · · Score: 1

      " ... I saw a TV show where they interviewed people this happened to. One was on a test drive! Another recalled the smell of the brakes burning, as the motor has so much torque at 0rpm that the brakes are useless. One even put the transmission in park, to no avail. ..."

      I was about to call Bullshit, when it occurred to me that you must be talking about a Prius, or some other electric car. Conventional (internal combustion) engines develop relatively little torque at low RPM and none at 0 RPM. Exactly where the torque peak happens is mostly a function of engine event timing, but even vehicles that develop maximum torque at relatively low RPM (tow trucks, heavy vehicles, diesel engines, etc) are still moving fairly well if equipped with auto transmissions (manuals don't normally have a Park function).

      As for putting the transmission in Park, with a conventional drivetrain this is very difficult to do, in most cases near impossible or truly impossible, as there is a pin that locks the planetary gear-set (or some other moving part directly connected to the output) when in Park that would have to be sheared off if the engine was rotating at any appreciable legal (street, i.e. less than highway) speed, at moderate speeds it probably wouldn't find the corresponding hole necessary for engagement, and compounding the problem, generally the linkages simply are not strong enough, even if you are, to pull this off by manipulating the shift lever ... something will bend instead. If you do pull it off, you will damage the transmission, and the vehicle will from that point on roll when stopped and in Park unless the parking brake is engaged. It's not a cheap fix.

      But, energized electric engines do develop maximum torque (potential) at rest, falling as the motor speed increases, although not to anywhere near zero within the operational RPM. (Horsepower increases, because Horsepower is torque x RPM, and therefore higher RPM tends to give higher horsepower values).

      [Hot tip: torque is always equal to horsepower at 5252 rpm; it's one way to describe the formula, and horsepower is a calculated value derived from measured torque; we don't actually measure horsepower itself directly. If the HP & Torque vs RPM chart you are looking at doesn't cross at 5250 (the practical point, given that the scale probably divisible by 10), it's not drawn properly or possibly is simply bogus].

      An electric motor driven car also may have a non-mechanical transmission shift lever; you might be able to put it into a Park position at a moving speed. However, the Park pin (if there was an actual transmission; electric motors can drive wheels directly and/or use electric means to bring the drive motor to a stop); almost certainly would not engage until the control system decided it was appropriate; in essence "Park' would not actually be "Park" until the vehicle was at rest. As you implied, putting it in Park could conceivably do nothing.

      So, what you didn't say (Electric car) makes sense of your post.

  13. I have a 2002 Prius by Cybersonic · · Score: 1

    The computer went bonkers over a year ago. All the warning lights came on, etc... I bought it in South Florida, moved several times, put 140k miles on it, and live in the San Francisco Bay Area now. I took it to the Toyota dealership here and wanted an explanation!

    They kept it a few months, brought in an expert, and told me it was a faulty sensor. The on-board computer thinks the hybrid battery is dead, yet it is continuously sending out a full charge! The dealership told me the faulty sensor was embedded in the transmission housing, would require a complete replacement of the transmission (which involves removing the engine), at a cost of $7,000. To fix... a sensor.

    Ugh... so I opted not to fix it, as the car works great otherwise. Kinda annoying though - as every warning indicator is always lit so I never know if anything else needs service.

    I gotta admit, other than that - its never accelerated on its own - thank goodness!

    --
    Cybie! aka Ralph Bonnell
    1. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by FlyingSquidStudios · · Score: 1

      If you didn't want to pay a lot to fix your car, maybe you shouldn't have gotten one that was as complex and with as many specialized parts as a Prius. My wife's cousin used to work at a muffler shop in a college town. All these kids who brought their daddy's Jags and Beemers to the shop were stunned to find out how expensive parts were. That's what happens when you buy a more select brand of car.

    2. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by Sir_Lewk · · Score: 1

      The chip in my 2004 Honda Accord's automatic transmission fried about two years ago. I was driving along, up a slight incline when all of a sudden my car dropped down into 3rd gear and would "surge" whenever it tried to shift into 4th. I managed to get it home, and then to the shop the next day. Apparently some chip just went haywire, they replaced it in about an hour for around $40. I haven't had any issues since but I certainly don't trust the things very much anymore.

      --
      "linux is just DOS with a UNIX like syntax" -- Galactic Dominator (944134)
    3. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You talk about specialized parts, but were talking about pure labor here, who should be at fault for the car requiring the entire drive train to be removed to replace a sensor?

      Yet another example why you should never go to the internet for car advice, EVERYBODY thinks they know everything about cars (myself not excluded), but holding an opinion like that just proves that you've never really had any experience, otherwise you would be much humbelererer.

      Now I shouldn't even be pointing this out but you do realize that your talking about a guy you knew who used to work in a muffler shop, which is pretty much the bottom of the barrel, only slightly higher than tire dicks.

      SOME PEOPLES CHILDREN!! GALL!!

    4. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A muffler shop selling BMW and Jags parts? Sounds like your full of shit.

      As for the I have a 2002 prius owner, you've been feed a load of bullshit if your think the sensor for the battery is in the transmisson. It's not. I installed aftermarket batt packs in the prius. Chances are your motor winding is shorted out to the car chassie.

    5. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by garynuman · · Score: 1

      the stupid American car i currently drive has cost much more to fix than the beemer (that i bought myself) that i drove through college... it has much less to do with the make of the car and much more to do with how new/complex it is, your average /.er would be able to find parts for his beemer online much less under the cost of the dealership and if unable to do the work himself pay a local mechanic to do it, that what i did with my late model 3 series for years and it still remains my favorite car I've ever had... just my 2 cents...

    6. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      problem is that even 'cheap' cars are becoming dependent on overdesigned complex systems like this. for now, one can buy an older car, but eventually parts availability will take them off the road...assuming the politicians don't get to them first. after all, they want to be able to track you when you drive....

    7. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by drtsystems · · Score: 1

      Give these companies some credit. That "haywire" issue you ran into was a safety feature. If anything in the transmission goes wrong, even if its just a sensor failing, instead of letting you drive on possibly unsafely or ruining the transmission, it will force you into a "limp home mode" in say third gear. This allows you to safely get home/to a mechanic to have the transmission fixed. This was perfectly intentional in design.

    8. Re:I have a 2002 Prius by itsenrique · · Score: 1

      Dude, If I'm not working on European cars I'm sleeping or posting on slashdot. BMW parts are not that expensive (for same-brand replacement as came out of the car). Just don't get them from the dealer. Also fairly common cars, jaguar on the other hand.... good luck. Even VW parts are more of a pain in the ass to find locally most of the time.

  14. Hello Audi? by whoever57 · · Score: 0

    Perhaps Toyota should talk to Audi for advice on this problem?

    --
    The real "Libtards" are the Libertarians!
  15. problems with complexity by skydude_20 · · Score: 4, Interesting

    F-22 raptor - 1.7 million lines of code
    F-35 joint strike fighter - 5.7 million
    Boeing 787 - 6.5 million
    Premium class automobile - ~ 100 million

    IEEE Spectrum: "How hard should it be to stop a runaway luxury car?" http://spectrum.ieee.org/blog/computing/it/riskfactor/how-hard-should-it-be-to-stop-a-runaway-car

    IEEE Spectrum: "This car runs on code" http://www.spectrum.ieee.org/green-tech/advanced-cars/this-car-runs-on-code

    --
    Jesus saves souls and redeems them for valuable cash prizes
    1. Re:problems with complexity by mirix · · Score: 1

      My car has an 8kB EPROM, so most of those 100M lines must be comments.

      Mind you, it is 20 years old.

      --
      Sent from my PDP-11
    2. Re:problems with complexity by khallow · · Score: 1

      It's an odd thing to ask, but do we have independent evidence that there is a modern car with 100 million lines of code in it? It sounds like an incredible amount of code bloat. Even 100 embedded CPUs and an onboard navigation/entertainment system shouldn't be that complex a problem in my view. For example, in 2001, GNU/Linux was thought to have 30 million lines of code in it, and IMHO it does a lot more than a modern car does. I'm wondering if there's really just a few hundred thousand lines of code duplicated in 100 CPUs and a standard Linux or Windows embedded OS running the GUI stuff.

    3. Re:problems with complexity by PinkyGigglebrain · · Score: 1

      F-22 raptor - 1.7 million lines of code
      F-35 joint strike fighter - 5.7 million
      Boeing 787 - 6.5 million
      Premium class automobile - ~ 100 million

      And only one block of bad code to ROYALLY FUCK IT ALL UP!

      Is this a case of the driver stepping on the gas instead of the brake? Maybe.

      Is this a case of a 1:1000000 race condition? Maybe.

      In a multi-tasking environment, as most car computers are, you can have dozens if not hundreds of different tasks all using the same resources. Unless access to a resource is protected, and every block of code that uses the resource also recognizes the protection (mutex semaphore, hardware flag, whatnot,...) then it is a race condition, or worse, waiting to happen.

      As others have pointed out in the past this sort "runaway car" event has been driver error.

      My point is that the more code a car has the more chance that one of these days its going to be something in the code, and not driver error, that costs someone there life.

    4. Re:problems with complexity by Jarjarthejedi · · Score: 1

      Yeah, that sounds like WAY too many lines of code to be feasible. Just a rough estimate, I have a 1500 line java program* that's pretty normal (not compact or anything) and it's about 60KB source, 40KB compiled, so using that same metric a 100,000,000 line block of code would be about 2.5 GB of code. That seems ridiculously unfeasible (the source would be around 4 GB with that metric)

      * Yeah, it's probably not coded in java, but that was the only available code more than a couple hundred lines on my computer atm

      --
      There are two kinds of fool One says 'This is old therefore good' Another says 'This is new therefore better'- Dean Ing
    5. Re:problems with complexity by tokul · · Score: 5, Insightful

      F-22 raptor - 1.7 million lines of code F-35 joint strike fighter - 5.7 million Boeing 787 - 6.5 million Premium class automobile - ~ 100 million

      F-22, F-35, Boeing - flown by professionals
      Premium class auto driven by morons

      Two different things. Different environments and different safety measures

    6. Re:problems with complexity by eh2o · · Score: 1

      From TFA:

      "Alfred Katzenbach, the director of information technology management at Daimler, has reportedly said that the radio and navigation system in the current S-class Mercedes-Benz requires over 20 million lines of code alone and that the car contains nearly as many ECUs as the new Airbus A380"

      The estimate of 100M includes items like the nav system which probably runs on windows mobile or some godawful thing...

    7. Re:problems with complexity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That doesn't seem a fair comparison, considering cars have things like radios and sophisticated navigation systems. You can afford complexity and not be too worried if complexity causes the driver to be unable to find the nearest McDonalds.

    8. Re:problems with complexity by Mike1024 · · Score: 1

      Premium class automobile - ~ 100 million

      Maybe - but how many of those lines of code do you suppose are capable of causing unintended acceleration?

      Every car I'm aware of has different wires and connections for different types of traffic - so the in-car DVD entertainment system is on a different system to the electric wing mirror adjustment and keyless entry and electronic boot entry and electronic climate control, which is on a different system to the throttle, which is on a different system to the cruise control and ABS. And the foot brake is still connected by a conventional hydraulic system.

      The purpose of this separation is because of the point you're making - it may not be practical to prove 100 million lines of code is bug-free, but what you can do is perform a lot of testing on the ~1000 line throttle-by-wire system, including testing for all of the (small number of) inputs it can get from elsewhere in the vehicle.

      My point being: It's bogus to say "Throttle-by-wire must be unsafe because cars have 100 million lines of code which is more than can be validated" because most of those lines of code, by design, are isolated from the safety-critical systems, and the safety critical systems are small enough that they can believably be validated.

      --
      "Goodness me, how unlike the FBI to abuse the trust of the American public." -- The Onion
    9. Re:problems with complexity by BikeHelmet · · Score: 1

      100 million? They need a more maintainable language!

      And here I considered 500k to be quite large. :/

    10. Re:problems with complexity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Non-mission-critical radios and navigation systems, you mean. Of course the planes have them both, but then they are kinda required to remain in the air and unfired-upon by friendlies, so by necessity they're much simpler and more robust code-wise.

    11. Re:problems with complexity by ei4anb · · Score: 1
      Good articles in Spectrum, thanks for the link. I have a background in Engineering and understand how my car works (both my manual and my wife's Prius) but I had forgotten how the vacuum assisted brakes would behave at very high engine RPM so I found this very interesting:

      "The ES 350 and most other modern vehicles are equipped with power-assisted brakes, which operate by drawing vacuum power from the engine. But when an engine opens to full throttle [like in a runaway car situation], the vacuum drops, and after one or two pumps of the brake pedal, the power assist feature disappears."

      So, in a runaway Prius you have to depress the engine stop button (for >3 seconds) and the brake pedal and hold them pressed without releasing or 'pumping', oh and don't panic at the same time!

    12. Re:problems with complexity by khallow · · Score: 1

      They must be counting libraries too, perhaps multiple times. By that measure, your Java code could be ten thousand lines of code. A second copy of the same program might be another ten thousand lines.

    13. Re:problems with complexity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      the F-22 and 35 will be flown by professionals. The Boeing, at best, will be flown by former professionals, and possibly by alcoholics who didn't get weeded out on smaller planes.

    14. Re:problems with complexity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      I call BS. A Raptor is completely fly by wire, has multiple times more directional inputs and outputs, and you want to say that a passenger car, which has at least one order of magnitude simpler control complexity requires an order of magnitude MORE code? You're likely to get your Slashdot credentials revoked with that kind of 'logic'. Incidentally, the requirement for 'simple' controls is dramatically greater for a Raptor than for a car because of the degrees of freedom of movement, not to mention the thrust vectoring feedback mechanism. Who moded this guy insightful?

    15. Re:problems with complexity by Hatta · · Score: 1

      It wasn't too long ago when we had cars running on 0 lines of code. Why do we need millions now?

      --
      Give me Classic Slashdot or give me death!
    16. Re:problems with complexity by edschurr · · Score: 1

      There is a video with physicist/programmer Brian Beckman talking about how it's harder to model a car than a plane in a video game. I'm not sure that's relevant here but you're comparing two different classes of vehicles. (It's an interesting video anyway.)

    17. Re:problems with complexity by aphelion_rock · · Score: 1

      Aircraft also have multiple systems, two , three - up to five for critical things like flight controls. They do this because anything mechanical or electronic is subject to failure and usually does at some time in its life. The humble automobile typically uses single systems with the exception of some critical components like brakes. Using a single system on the throttle can only result in a failure at some point in time. Floor mats aside, there will be some failures experienced by some people that result in a full throttle situation.

    18. Re:problems with complexity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      Car ECU's do not have ~100 million lines of code.

    19. Re:problems with complexity by tokul · · Score: 1

      I call BS
      ..
      Who moded this guy insightful?

      Yeah. I liked it more when it was modded as funny.

      But pilots don't need clippy when they release smart bombs or do vertical takeoff from the carrier. Premium class car drivers like navigation advises and other guides.

      Military software might be simple in order to avoid programming errors that are likely to be fatal and will cost over 150 millions.

      Car software does not follow KISS principle. Car unexpectedly accelerates, big f... deal. Car software programmer is not in that car and car owners don't have tactical nukes.

      Comparing car navigation with plane navigation is like comparing apples with oranges. Totally useless.

  16. This is why American cars are gaining by BadAnalogyGuy · · Score: 2, Funny

    With American cars, the floormats are optional and come with a big price tag. This is a safety feature to prevent exactly this type of problem.

    It's exactly like when Ashlee Simpson appeared on SNL and was caught lip syncing. She knew that she couldn't sing live, so she played her auto-tuned voice over the speakers. When the playback stopped and she was shown to be faking it, she danced a little jig. American car floormat pricing is like that little jig.

    1. Re:This is why American cars are gaining by jaavaaguru · · Score: 4, Funny

      It's exactly like when Ashlee Simpson appeared on SNL and was caught lip syncing

      I have no idea who that is. Can you give a car analogy instead?

    2. Re:This is why American cars are gaining by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's like that time the GM CEO was asking for money from congress, and they actually called him on his management ability, so he danced a little jig. American politics is like that little jig.

      Don't ask for a computer analogy or I'd have to post about Steve Ballmer.

    3. Re:This is why American cars are gaining by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      She's roughly analogous to a '78 Fiat Spider.

    4. Re:This is why American cars are gaining by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's like a Library of Congress full of station wagon 8-track tapes of the Cars on a cross country trip?

    5. Re:This is why American cars are gaining by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Would you accept a celebrity under-garment analogy?

    6. Re:This is why American cars are gaining by 2obvious4u · · Score: 1

      What is the '78 Fiat Spiders better looking sister?

  17. no cure by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    for stupid

  18. I hate to be mean about a possibly serious issue by LockeOnLogic · · Score: 1

    Isn't a stuck floor mat a far more likely explanation than a mysterious computer bogeyman? Even with a recall there would be tons of cars that never changed them out. No doubt this should be investigated, but the article seems to be nothing but speculation and hearsay.

  19. Brakes by icebike · · Score: 1

    From the linked article:

    There have been other deaths as well, including a fatal accident near San Diego this August that took the lives of California Highway patrol officer Mark Saylor, his wife, daughter and brother-in-law.

    The Lexus they were driving, borrowed from a dealer, raced out of control at 100 miles an hour before hitting another vehicle, crashing into an embankment and bursting into flames.

    The car was clearly new to him (borrowed), and he could have mistaken the pedals, but since he died in the crash no one will know. They had time to make a phone call to 911 claiming no brakes?

    A highway patrol officer should know how to take the car out of gear, hit the brake, pull the parking break and kill the ignition. Or even just selecting a lower gear.

    The fact that non of those things were done, or they didn't work suggest to me that it was indeed the floor mats trapping the pedal when they floored it to test acceleration.

    But still, full brakes will at least slow down a car under full acceleration.

    --
    Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    1. Re:Brakes by Mendokusei · · Score: 1

      Even better, you can shift the car into neutral while braking, or maybe even turn off the ignition and coast? I don't understand how people can't seem to think of these things. It's not like the car suddenly accelerated to 100mph in the blink of an eye; even in the more powerful cars, it still takes a few seconds to get up to speeds like that.

    2. Re:Brakes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sounds like a Darwin award candidate to me.

      Took out his offspring as well, which is better than most.

    3. Re:Brakes by tixxit · · Score: 1

      But still, full brakes will at least slow down a car under full acceleration.

      Not really. When brakes get really hot, the pad material starts to turn directly into gas and causes the pads to "float." The effect is that your brakes don't work at all. If you are going very fast and are slamming on the brakes, they'll start to float from the heat. After that your brakes are useless.

    4. Re:Brakes by icebike · · Score: 1

      So its your contention that it is impossible to panic stop a fast moving car?

      Who knew?!?!

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    5. Re:Brakes by BoneFlower · · Score: 1

      If your engine is going full out and you are in gear, your brakes will be stressed far harder than they are meant to ever be stressed.

      Now, under normal circumstances your engine will not be going full out when you are braking, but we are not discussing normal circumstances here.

    6. Re:Brakes by flghtmstr1 · · Score: 1

      This is not true. Brake fade is caused by the hydraulic fluid boiling, thereby turning an incompressible fluid into a compressible one, thereby greatly reducing the amount of force applied to the pads. It is also important to keep in mind that, as has been previously stated but largely ignored, most modern-day brakes are vacuum-assisted. At wide open throttle, there is no appreciable vacuum in the intake manifold, so the brakes will only work for one or two pumps (there is a vacuum reservoir that maintains a limited amount of vacuum in the event that the engine is shut off and the brakes need to be applied).

    7. Re:Brakes by frozentier · · Score: 1

      The fact that non of those things were done, or they didn't work suggest to me that it was indeed the floor mats trapping the pedal when they floored it to test acceleration.

      But still, full brakes will at least slow down a car under full acceleration.

      Who floors a car to test acceleration in any area other than an open road where there is no obstacles in front of them? You don't "floor it" somewhere that you might have to stop immediately.

    8. Re:Brakes by BluBrick · · Score: 1

      Sounds like a Darwin award candidate to me.

      Took out his offspring as well, which is better than most.

      In his case, it was a necessary attribute for a Darwin rather than "better than most". Having had offspring really should disqualify him unless his stupidity took care of them as well.

      --
      Ahh - My eye!
      The doctor said I'm not supposed to get Slashdot in it!
    9. Re:Brakes by TheLink · · Score: 1

      > So its your contention that it is impossible to panic stop a fast moving car?

      It's not impossible. The problem is "panic stopping" the car without involving a collision.

      --
    10. Re:Brakes by pandaman9000 · · Score: 1

      Not -all- modern brakes are vac-assisted. Anything with forced induction spends a lot of time with little to no vacuum, or in boost realm.

    11. Re:Brakes by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      A highway patrol officer should know how to take the car out of gear

      Gears are controlled by computer, you cannot actually change gears, even though you think you are.

      hit the brake

      Which will rather quickly burn off. Which happened in this case. (A cop responding to the situation saw the brakes 'on fire', although I suspect they were just smoking.)

      pull the parking break

      He had that on. He rather quickly had no functioning brakes at all.

      kill the ignition

      He did not know how to do that, as apparently to force the ignition off you have to hold the start button down for several seconds.

      This isn't some stupid user error. This is a car that sometimes gets stuck on full throttle for whatever reason(I think the floor mat explanation is nonsense, but we'll see), which is bad enough, but people are dying because people in the car can't figure how to turn it off

      Like you said, a highway patrol officer does know what to do in a runaway car. He did what he could, and it didn't stop.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    12. Re:Brakes by NotTheNickIWanted · · Score: 1

      When brakes get really hot, the pad material starts to turn directly into gas and causes the pads to "float."

      This is not true. Brake fade is caused by the hydraulic fluid boiling, thereby turning an incompressible fluid into a compressible one, thereby greatly reducing the amount of force applied to the pads.

      Yes, the GP is true. This is why in sport and high performance applications you often find cross-drilled brake rotors. While the holes do provide some additional surface area to the rotor which promotes cooling, their primary purpose is to give the gas somewhere to go & thereby allow greater pad-to-rotor friction.

      That's not to say that brake fluid doesn't boil, however boiling brake fluid is usually caused by the demand for braking force exceeding the components' ability to dissipate heat away from the caliper, or excessive moisture being present in the brake fluid.

      --

      unsigned int question = 0x2B | ~(0x2B)
    13. Re:Brakes by tixxit · · Score: 1

      What? I am not sure if I understand your comment. I am saying that if your car is "under full acceleration" braking won't do you any good, as the force required to slow the car down would most likely fade your brakes. You said it was possible to slow it down. I am disagreeing with you. I've decided to "join the discussion."

    14. Re:Brakes by icebike · · Score: 1

      I am saying you will be able to slow it down and bring it to a stop, (probably stalling the engine in the process), by heavy break pressure. (Pressure well within the capability of a 100 pound scared-to-death woman).

      Because of ABS, you will also be able to steer during the process.

      Brakes will get hot, just like descending a steep mountain road, but they will be sufficient to stop the car and stall the engine with the automatic transmission in forth or fifth gear as all Toyotas use, and probably even in second or third.

      Prove me wrong.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    15. Re:Brakes by tixxit · · Score: 1

      If your car is under severe load, then it will be in the lowest gear possible. At high speeds, that would be 4th or 5th (if the car has it), but it would bump down the gears once you get slow enough. If the car is an automatic, and you actually could bring it to a stop, it wouldn't stall (you can try torque braking on your own time). I'm not sure how you have proved your point any more then I have. That said, I was talking about floating, which is still a problem (even with ABS - I have had brake float on cars with ABS). It is just really all about heat. Even if you could slow your car down gradually by using the brakes, you'd be generating a lot more heat then you would during normal braking. If you are going over 140kph, I can't imagine brake float not becoming a problem. Of course, I can't prove it since I am not about to go rent a Toyota, go at highways speeds, slam the pedal down then slam the brake pedal down and see what happens. If you want to dismiss my point, that is fine, but don't pretend like I have to do the proving. We're both using anecdotal evidence here.

  20. Re:No fault? software design standards by russ1337 · · Score: 1

    Does anyone know the software design / assurance standards for automobiles? Aviation (FAA) mandates DO-178B (level A through D) for software deemed to have an effect on flight safety... is there something similar for Cars? Closest i can find is this PDF Automotive Software Engineering [pdf]. THis calls out what looks to be the right things, but is it mandated anywhere that system-safety through to software assurance is followed?

    anyone?

  21. My 2c by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I label drivers on the road among some of the following catagories, Mini Van drivers, Hyundia / Kia drivers, and Toyota drivers.

    All of these groups I consider highly dangerous, and avoid them at all costs. Also it provides me with much entertainment when my suspicious are reinforced, usually on a daily basis.

  22. Not a bug. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It's not a bug, it's a feature.

  23. Again? by Orgasmatron · · Score: 1, Interesting

    Ok, repeat after me: there is no production car on the planet with an engine capable of suddenly overpowering simple hydraulic brakes.

    Know what Audi's engineers found back in the 80s? They found gas pedals bent out of shape by people standing on their "brakes".

    This is not "news for nerds". This is the same bullshit driver error as before, just the computers playing boogeyman are a bit more advanced this time.

    P.S. This opinion is based on the statements quoted in the article. The laws of physics may not be widely known, but your car can't nullify them.

    --
    See that "Preview" button?
    1. Re:Again? by 0123456 · · Score: 1

      Ok, repeat after me: there is no production car on the planet with an engine capable of suddenly overpowering simple hydraulic brakes.

      There is if the engine is running flat out and you burn out the brakes trying to stop it.

      This is the same bullshit driver error as before, just the computers playing boogeyman are a bit more advanced this time.

      From what I've read on the subject, I believe at least one car affected in this way did have its brakes burnt out; so I suspect the bullshit is coming from a different direction.

      That said, I tend to suspect floor mats are at least as likely an explanation as software faults: I remember my throttle getting stuck on something in the footwell some years ago, but fortunately it was a manual with an ignition key rather than an automatic with a 'hold down for five seconds to stop the engine' button.

    2. Re:Again? by m85476585 · · Score: 1

      As for hitting the brakes to slow a car down, another issue pops up, says the Times. "The ES 350 and most other modern vehicles are equipped with power-assisted brakes, which operate by drawing vacuum power from the engine. But when an engine opens to full throttle [like in a runaway car situation], the vacuum drops, and after one or two pumps of the brake pedal, the power assist feature disappears."

      Source

    3. Re:Again? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If the brake fluid boils before the vehicle stops, the engine will win.

    4. Re:Again? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      and how many times has it happened with one where the floor mats were REMOVED for safety measures....

    5. Re:Again? by GrahamCox · · Score: 1

      Ok, repeat after me: there is no production car on the planet with an engine capable of suddenly overpowering simple hydraulic brakes.

      That's incorrect, as anyone who has done any motorsport or even driven hard will testify. Brakes work by converting kinetic energy into heat. They have a finite capacity (rate) at which they can do this. If the car has more energy than the brakes can dissipate, it will continue to move. In addition, the brakes also have a maximum working temperature at which point they cannot convert any more energy into heat - effectively they are saturated - this point is easily felt as a sudden loss of deceleration (aka "fade"). Different materials can help, which is why competition vehicles are invariably fitted with a different pad material, ventilate the discs (to increase the heat dissipation) and maybe use ceramic discs and so on.

      Ordinary cars compromise on having brakes which work and feel better from cold but often perform badly when used hot. They are usually rated for only two consecutive emergency stops from 60km/hr or so before they will become effectively non-functional. Frequent applications of the brakes on a twisty road will reach the same temperature quickly, so let's hope there isn't a child about to step out just around the next bend, eh? And on the same topic, next time you drag your car down a long hill on the brakes (instead of changing to a lower gear), you're also in great danger of having no brakes available if you need to actually stop at the bottom. Every time I follow someone whose brake lights are permanently on all the way down a long hill, I want to scream.

    6. Re:Again? by Jarjarthejedi · · Score: 1

      If you're standing on the breaks long enough for the fluid to evaporate without doing anything else (shift to neutral, shut off car, jump out door like action hero...all right, that last one's probably not a good idea, but you get the picture) then it's not the brakes which failed you, but simply your lack of knowledge about how to stop a car that did.

      --
      There are two kinds of fool One says 'This is old therefore good' Another says 'This is new therefore better'- Dean Ing
    7. Re:Again? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I tend to agree that most of the incidents can easily be chalked up to drivers fucking up and pressing the wrong petal going on to blame their mistake on the rain/vechicles. That makes perfect sense.

      However this does not mean real problems do not exist and all such reports deserve to be dismissed outright. The ODB II freeze frame data actually does provide valuable insights into such cases someone with half a clue can correlate basic metrics to at least be able to deduce if the break was being applied even when break specific information is not available as part of the data! ABS histories where available can reveal a hideous amount of information to someone clueful enough to look at the data and carefully interpret/reconstruct the incident.

      I would focus on incidents that did not result in a crash where the driver was able to recover. Preferably cases where the driver was
      alone at the time.

      If you troll around on the net there are reports of runaway cruise controls where the driver had to shutoff the engine to prevent their vechicle from accelerating out of control when their foot was not on either petal AND turning it off didn't stop the acceleration.

      God knows my cruise control has an annoying habbit of messing up in the most specatuclar ways including unnecessarily redlining the fricking engine. I have never experienced sudden acceleration but I know people who have.

    8. Re:Again? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      See the above comment. These brakes aren't the "simple hydraulic brakes" you're thinking of.

      http://spectrum.ieee.org/blog/computing/it/riskfactor/how-hard-should-it-be-to-stop-a-runaway-car

    9. Re:Again? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Except that Toyota uses vacuum assist breaks, NOT hydraulic brakes.

      And guess what - with the throttle FULL open, that vacuum is no where near as strong as it used to be.

      So this could indeed be a combination failure of the engine electronics and brakes, at least partially a failure of design.

    10. Re:Again? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What type of brake system does the vacuum act on? Air, Hydraulic or something else?

    11. Re:Again? by LinuxIsGarbage · · Score: 1

      fortunately it was a manual with an ignition key rather than an automatic with a 'hold down for five seconds to stop the engine' button.

      God, and I thought the ACPI power button in computers was annoying when you have to hold them for five seconds to execute a hard power off. Never thought there'd be the same situation in a car.

  24. same thing happened with my old beemer by margaret · · Score: 1

    and it really was the floor mat. Now I'm OCD about making sure it's in the right spot before I get in the car...

    1. Re:same thing happened with my old beemer by Mr.+Roadkill · · Score: 1

      and it really was the floor mat. Now I'm OCD about making sure it's in the right spot before I get in the car...

      Same thing happened with my last Toyota, a '67 Corona. Turned out to be the breather tube from the rocker cover to the carbie fouling the throttle linkage and holding it wide open.

  25. One small change to the tech specs by DieByWire · · Score: 1

    $tech_specs =~ s/Drive-By-Wire/Die-By-Wire/g;

    --
    Never shake hands with a man you meet in a fertility clinic.
  26. I have seen this... by theendlessnow · · Score: 5, Funny

    My Geo Metro had the EXACT same problem. It would suddenly jump from 1mph to 1.1mph very quickly. They wouldn't admit the problem either. We figured it was due to having an odd number of cylinders.

    1. Re:I have seen this... by Tablizer · · Score: 1

      LOL: +5000000 mods! I drove one of those Metro bastards once as a rental and ditched it and took a lawn-mower to work instead after getting fed up being passed by Yugos.

    2. Re:I have seen this... by mister_playboy · · Score: 1

      I drove a 1991 Metro for a while... the slowest of the slow models: 1.0L 3 cylinder, 4 door hatchback, 3 speed automatic. Peaks of 55 hp and 58 lb-ft of torque. \o/

      Lots of odd things about a Metro. If you are in the car and someone else is refueling it, you can clearly hear the fuel sloshing into the tank because there is so little sound deadening. The idle was very precisely tuned to a RPM where the motor was well-balanced and smooth, but noticeable vibration could be felt at any other engine speed. The non-power steering is was really great in that car... 12 inch wheels and 1650 pounds dry weight will do it for steering response...

      The car was acquired for free, and it leaked oil like a sieve. Literally, oil had to be added every 20 miles or so... that actually made it expensive to drive. Everything went well enough otherwise, and the A/C was extremely good... but the car would feel noticeably slower whenever it was on! :)

      --
      Do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the Law ::: Love is the law, love under will
    3. Re:I have seen this... by greenskyx · · Score: 1

      HAHA... My Ford Aspire had that EXACT same issue!

    4. Re:I have seen this... by CompMD · · Score: 1

      I don't know man, my daily driver has an odd number of cylinders and can smoke a Mustang from a stoplight...its a turbocharged 2.4L 5-cylinder Volvo station wagon with ECU and intake modifications bringing it to 275hp. My friend's Volvo S60R Evolve has a twin-cooled turbo 2.5L 5-cylinder engine with an Evolve exhaust system and ECU bringing it up to 420hp. He has fun scaring Porsche drivers in his sedan.

  27. "The formula" by Sideshow+Mark · · Score: 1

    Maybe they sent in Tyler Durden to apply "the formula" and X was less than the cost of a recall.

    1. Re:"The formula" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Who is Tyler Durden?

  28. Gotta be some edge case set of conditions... by Trip6 · · Score: 0

    they can't replicate.

    --
    I hate being bipolar; it's awesome!
    1. Re:Gotta be some edge case set of conditions... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It is: extremely stupid drivers. For their testing, they keep hiring professionals.

  29. Same thing happened with Audi 5000s by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/60_Minutes#Unintended_acceleration

    After a lot of controversy the final conclusion was user error.

  30. Driver error. by MaWeiTao · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I guarantee you this is another example of driver error in the same vein as the unintended acceleration that afflicted Audi 5000's years ago. If I'm not mistaken I think the problem in the Audi was that the position of the pedals was slightly off from what people were accustomed to causing them to think they were pressing down on the brake when they actually had the accelerator down to the floor. There have been a few other cars with similar issues.

    I'm quite certain the problem with these Toyota's is similar. How in the hell could a car possible start accelerating on its own? And even if the accelerator is drive-by-wire the brakes are not and will likely never be. This means that if the owner got on the brakes hard they'd be able to slow the car. Even if the ECU didn't cut power when braking as some cars do, the engine won't be able to overpower the brakes. About the only possible culprit I see is cruise control, but again, that should be fairly easy to defeat.

    The fact is that when some people panic they freeze up and are unable to do anything else. As with the Audi, they press the gas accidentally, the car lunges forward and they panic, pressing down harder on the pedal. It reminds me of what happened to my father years ago. He was teaching my sister's friend to drive. For whatever reason she got on the gas, started barreling towards a car and hit it. She freaked out and froze, her foot firmly planted on the gas. My father actually had to take her leg and lift it off the gas because she was completely unresponsive.

    And the problem is that sometimes the issue isn't actually unintended acceleration but some other problem that gives that impression. I know of some cases, for example, where a transmission doesn't engage properly for whatever reason. The driver tries to accelerate but the car doesn't move, so they give it more gas. The transmission eventually does engage and the car lunges forward more aggressively than anticipated. The car may have a real problem, but the driver didn't respond to the issue appropriately.

    People nowadays are far too ignorant about they drive. Some people barely know what they're driving, let alone how anything works. As part of driver training basic instruction on the mechanical operation of a car should be mandatory. This would allow drivers to better respond to problems and make them better informed when they deal with mechanics so that they don't get taken advantage of so easily. It's like Toyota's recall over the floor mats. Are drivers so oblivious that they don't notice their floor mats riding up under the pedals. It's not like those things slip under there that easily. Too many people seem to take driving as seriously as they do sitting on the sofa watching television. But they sure do manage to have quite an ego about what they drive.

    1. Re:Driver error. by Bengie · · Score: 1

      "As part of driver training basic instruction on the mechanical operation of a car should be mandatory"

      Need to stop stupid people from breeding in general

    2. Re:Driver error. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      MaWeiTao (908546) is correct. For anyone that was cognizant during Audi's "unintended acceleration" fiasco in the 80's this is deja vu all over again. Those cases were ALL proven to be driver error and, during the investigation, it was demonstrated that any of the cars involved could have been stopped with full application of the brakes, even if the throttle was stuck full on. I am sure that modern car's braking systems are even more capable. I quick application of the brakes (which should be instinctual) would have stopped these Toyotas.

    3. Re:Driver error. by chemical_9 · · Score: 1

      I'm afraid your wrong. I guarantee you this is not a case of driver error, because I've seen the evidence, and I know someone this affected. My dad (who taught auto mechanics for 30 years) has had this happen to him twice now with his new '09 Toyota Tacoma. Both times he was backing out of the garage, and the truck suddenly lunged backwards, tires spinning away. Thankfully he was calm and collected enough to hit the brake and shift the car into neutral while the engine decided to its thing. If this just happened once, I might be inclined to think that it was driver error, but having the exact same thing happen twice pretty much rules that out in my head. On another note, my mom, who's never been the cause of an accident, recently ran into the side of a building with her '06 Toyota Avalon when it suddenly lunged forward while she was parking. Now, my mom's incident I'm not so sure if it was driver error or not, but it's suspicious all the same. In any case, there's nobody I'd rather have drive a vehicle I'm in than my dad, and I can assure you that this is much more than people being 'ignorant drivers'.

      It really isn't that far fetched to think that there could be a bug in the software that drives the throttle. It could be something as simple as a division by zero. Obviously, something in the code is getting the wrong data that the coders didn't take into consideration.

    4. Re:Driver error. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      About 2 months ago I flew to another city to interview for a possible transfer. I've been driving a manual car for about the last year now, and had rented an automatic on this trip. Depressing the clutch has become so ingrained in my muscle memory that not once but twice when I was going to coast for a short distance and brake, I instead slammed on the brake because it was a different shape than the brake in my car, and occupied some of the room that the clutch in my car did.

    5. Re:Driver error. by chemical_9 · · Score: 1

      I forgot to mention something that helps support my case: you can't put the car in reverse without putting your foot on the brake. So, it goes to reason that you can't mix up the pedals when you have your foot already on the brake.

    6. Re:Driver error. by whitedsepdivine · · Score: 1

      I have seen cars with bad tps that would not die past a certain point because the potentiometer was grounding out. It is reasonable to think that if they reversed the potentiometer where ground was positive movement that if the tps sensor then went bad it would have the reverse effect of redlining. I guarentee that cars are not infalable. In fact cars are designed to not last. Appearently you where on the Therac-25 development team.

    7. Re:Driver error. by ucblockhead · · Score: 1

      If both the brakes and the accelerator are on maximum, you are going to burn out the brake pads *very* quickly and end up essentially rendering the brakes useless. The brakes on a car are designed to slow a car that isn't accelerating.

      --
      The cake is a pie
    8. Re:Driver error. by whitedsepdivine · · Score: 1

      Not true for all cars. In toyotas and many other cars you can put it in reverse if the gears line up while moving forward. Most GM models have a button that is required to be pushed to move from neutral to reverse. I replace and rebuilt engines and transmissions for 3 years.

    9. Re:Driver error. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      there's no reason why the engine at full speed couldn't overpower the brakes, and if the throttle's controlled by computer it could quite plausibly bug up and start misbehaving.

  31. That's why cars had ignition keys. by Deathlizard · · Score: 1

    I had this happen to me once on my 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis. The accelerator got stuck under the floor mat and the car took off. Know what I did? I Put it in neutral, Realized that was stupid (since the engine was redlining now) and turned the key to off. once I pulled over, I fixed the mat, started the car and went down the road.

    These new cars, with no physical ignition cutoff is a bad thing. I swear to god the auto industry wants eX-Driver to happen, where we got teenagers running down freeways at breakneck speeds going after rogue cars with chaff guns because some idiot in R&D was too stupid to put a big red EMERGENCY STOP Button in the cab of the rogue AI car.

    1. Re:That's why cars had ignition keys. by Strider- · · Score: 2, Interesting
      Guy I know had his Volkswagen TDI go into true runaway on him. The bearings on his turbocharger failed early, causing engine oil to get aerosolized into his air intake stream. Being a diesel engine, it quite happily burned the engine oil, promptly sending the engine into full runaway untill it seized up due to massive over-revs, and lack of oil.

      There is a butterfly valve on the air intake designed to keep this from happening (chokes the air from the engine) but I think it might have sucked that through too.

      --
      ...si hoc legere nimium eruditionis habes...
    2. Re:That's why cars had ignition keys. by ubercam · · Score: 1

      That butterfly valve is called an Anti-Shudder Valve (ASV) and it's part of the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve assembly. Many people do an EGR delete on the ALH motor (1999.5-2003/2004, can't do it on the newer engines without replacing the entire intake manifold) because in combination with the oily fumes from the crankcase vent causes the intake manifold to soot up and restrict airflow. In most cases this is a very easy process involving a bolt on part called a Race Pipe in TDI lingo. I've done this, but I modified the EGR valve itself and kept the anti-shudder valve intact. Without it, when you shut off the car, all you're doing is shutting off the fuel pump, which causes the car to run itself out of fuel and it shudders a lot, which I really didn't like. With the ASV intact, when you turn the car off, you activate a vacuum solenoid which closes the ASV for 3 seconds, cutting off the engine's air supply and causing it a nice smooth shutdown.

      In the event of a turbo failure, like you described, you don't have long to shut off the car before you get chunks of turbo and hot engine oil going through your cylinders. If you don't have an ASV you're pretty screwed and you probably just cost yourself a motor. In the event of a runaway the recommended practice is to shut off the car as soon as you can after the turbo blows (you have to be VERY quick though as the window is quite small, maybe a second or so). If you caught it in time it'll shut off and you just have to replace the turbo, do an oil change and clean out the intercooler and intake pipes after the turbo, but the motor is probably just fine. The ASV closing will stop the hot oil and chunks of metal from getting into the cylinders. If you didn't catch it in time and it's still running away you need to put it in 5th to hopefully bog it down below 1900rpm (peak torque) and stand on the brake, or you could just wait until it pops.

      The best way to ensure that this doesn't happen to you is to be vigilant about oil change intervals (follow the recommendations in the owner's manual) and to use the right kind of oil (again, see the manual). The turbo needs oil for cooling and lubrication. Also don't idle the car excessively because the turbo's seals work best when they're under pressure, which they definitely aren't at idle. If you start your car 20 minutes before leaving for work expecting it to be nice and warm by the time you leave, you're wasting your time with a TDI. You need to drive it to warm it up. That's what heated seats are for :)

      On old VW diesels (circa 1979-1980) there was a recall because the crankcase vent vented right into the top of the airbox and oily fumes were sucked through and soaked into the air filter and condensed into liquid over time. This would pool and get sucked into the engine and cause short runaways until the pooled oil was burned up. The solution was the reroute the CCV's entry point to somewhere in the system after the air filter.

  32. Reproducible testcase by QuoteMstr · · Score: 2, Informative

    It's very difficult to diagnose problems like these without a reproducible testcase. It sounds like you've stumbled upon one. You should talk to your dealer. Either:

    1. something is wrong with your car, in which case the dealer will fix it
    2. you've managed to reproduce a problem with your model in general, which case the manufacturer will fix it to avoid liability
    1. Re:Reproducible testcase by SvnLyrBrto · · Score: 5, Funny

      Look who you're replying to. He's probably fixed it himself by now. In fact, he's probably re-wired and re-programed the whole thing to get at least 25% better mileage and acceleration by now.

      --
      Imagine all the people...
    2. Re:Reproducible testcase by QuoteMstr · · Score: 1

      Heh. Somehow it never occurred to me that the person I was replying to was actually Wozniak!

    3. Re:Reproducible testcase by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've seen this behavior on every small engined car I've owned with cruise control (from multiple manufacturers).

      It seems like this is what is happening:

      - You push the cruise lever up once or twice to get moving faster
      - The throttle opens, but since you're already at high speed (and in overdrive), the car doesn't move very much
      - The cruise control computer notices that it's not accelerating very much and opens the throttle further.
      - As you reach the desired speed, the cruise control computer backs off the throttle very gradually (it seems to match the rate at which the addition of throttle caused acceleration).
      - This causes the car to overshoot the desired speed.
      - Combined with the driver often hitting the cruise switch more often than necessary (since the initial hit didn't seem to do anything), this can be quite disconcerting.

      On cars with a throttle cable, the pedal moves so you can 'feel' what the cruise control is doing.

      Workaround - accelerate yourself and then set the cruise when you reach the speed you want.

      I don't know of a situation where you can't overwhelm the power of the engine with your brakes, though.

    4. Re:Reproducible testcase by Tablizer · · Score: 1

      Look who you're replying to.

      Holy carp! I deserve the "-5 clueless bastard" mod for that.
             

    5. Re:Reproducible testcase by skeeto · · Score: 1

      And since he's prankster, he probably used it to play a prank on the car dealer too.

    6. Re:Reproducible testcase by slimjim8094 · · Score: 1

      Yes, in hand-written assembler.

      --
      I have developed a truly marvelous proof of this comment, which this signature is too narrow to contain.
    7. Re:Reproducible testcase by alexburke · · Score: 1

      1. you've managed to reproduce a problem with your model in general, which case the manufacturer will fix it to avoid liability

      You haven't watched Fight Club, have you?

  33. Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful
    from IEEE Spectrum

    As for hitting the brakes to slow a car down, another issue pops up, says the Times. "The ES 350 and most other modern vehicles are equipped with power-assisted brakes, which operate by drawing vacuum power from the engine. But when an engine opens to full throttle [like in a runaway car situation], the vacuum drops, and after one or two pumps of the brake pedal, the power assist feature disappears." Tests indicate that a person would have to exert 225 pounds of pressure on a brake pedal to stop it - a mean feat for almost anyone, let alone a person trying to keep a car on the road while avoiding hitting anything as it is traveling at 176 feet per second.

    Sorry for the anon posting, but I don't want to undo my moderation in this thread ...

    1. Re:Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sorry for the anon posting, but I don't want to undo my moderation in this thread ...

      IIRC even if you post AC it undos moderation if it's from the same IP address.

    2. Re:Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hmm... let's test that.

      I've posted as anon already, let's see if my mod of your post sticks.

    3. Re:Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by mister_playboy · · Score: 1

      No, it does not.

      --
      Do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the Law ::: Love is the law, love under will
    4. Re:Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A society of electrical and electronic engineers is maybe not such a great authority when it comes to other types of engineering.

      I know how vacuum servos work. And I also know that delivering 225 pounds of force is trivial for just about any person old enough to drive a car.

      You can stop any normal car from any reasonable speed with a single use of the vacuum booster. All you have to do is stay on it. And if you do somehow manage to deplete your vacuum, even at full throttle your dirty air filter should have enough resistance to give you a partial vacuum recharge in short order. If you have a turbo, you are probably on your own. The inlet path to a turbo engine ALWAYS has vacuum at some point, but a check valve to harness it is just too expensive.

      Which totally doesn't matter because you are anchored in a seat, applying force with the largest muscles in your body. 225 isn't a big deal in this context. If you don't believe me, go put 225 on a leg press machine and see how easy it is. If you can't lift it, just pretend that you are going to die if you can't lift it four inches. With the proper motivation, I bet you could do it with just your ankle.

    5. Re:Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hmm... turns out you're right.

      Well I'll be damned.

    6. Re:Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Actually it does, I just tried it.

      Test it out some time if you have mod points.

    7. Re:Bzzzzz ... wrong ... (IEEE Spectrum) by TheLink · · Score: 1

      I think a better test is - say you're a skinny person who is 115 pounds, if you were carrying a 110 pounds (some other light person) could you do a small hop on one foot? Or you were a 170 pounder and carrying a 60 pound kid - can you do a small hop? If you can, then you can probably push the 225 pounds required. That's closer to the brake leg movement than a leg press lift.

      The CHP officer should have been able to easily do 225 pounds with one foot.

      IMO the problem is if you don't apply max force on the brakes (just step on them hard but not max) - then the brakes might start burning out first.

      --
  34. Can't say I'm surprised, unfortunately. by MrCrassic · · Score: 1

    Especially after waking up one winter morning to my neighbor's new Cadillac Escalade engulfed in flames. The neighbors were sleeping inside; by the time the owner came out to settle the flames, it had destroyed the Mercedes parked right in front of it. Had he not woken up, his house would've been gone.

    He claimed that it just happened spontaneously, and I'd believe that, since my sister heard a loud sound and I heard it continuously honking before the fire started. It's kind of scary to think about, but freak accidents are called that for a reason...

    1. Re:Can't say I'm surprised, unfortunately. by BoneFlower · · Score: 1

      This event you describe really has nothing to do with car computers such as those that are alleged to be the cause of these runaway cars.

      All it takes is a fault in the fuel system allowing fuel vapors to reach a faulty electrical line. Then the car draws power across that line, a spark is generated, and the vapors ignite. There are also some situations where car batteries can emit hydrogen gas which can then be ignited by a spark.

      My 93 Sunbird is probably just as vulnerable to such a random fire event as that Escalade was. It's not something to really worry about... the chances of this sort of fuel system fault happening at the same time as this sort of electrical fault are extremely small, and even then you need fairly precise vapor concentrations for it to actually result in fire. But it is entirely the result of simple failures in systems that all cars have had... well pretty much since cars existed.

    2. Re:Can't say I'm surprised, unfortunately. by Peter+Mork · · Score: 1

      And the best part is, when your car spontaneously starts on fire, the damage is not covered by the warranty (at least if it's a Ford). Having been burned (ha-ha) by Ford once in this regard, I am never purchasing another car from them again. Ever.

    3. Re:Can't say I'm surprised, unfortunately. by BoneFlower · · Score: 1

      I'd love to be able to make flat decisions on cars like that.

      Unfortunately, I'm fairly harshly limited on costs. The most expensive car I've owned is my current Sunbird which I paid $800 for, and it was a stretch to afford that much. But, as might be expected, this being the most I've paid, has also gotten me the most mechanically reliable of any of them.

      I've pretty much got to go with whatever is cheap. But since getting the Sunbird and driving it in New England weather, I'm going to go out of my way to find something affordable that has ABS. ABS is no replacement for being a decent driver, but it can certainly help when other people start being dumb in the snow.

    4. Re:Can't say I'm surprised, unfortunately. by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      Considering that cars are not turned on when parked in driveways, it seems unlikely that any sort of computer control could vaguely be at issue.

      Yes, the computer could have spontaneously turned the car on, and then spontaneously opened the throttle wide, but that seems incredibly implausible.

      And, also, a stuck throttle shouldn't result in the car catching on fire anyway! It is very hard to blow up a car by running the engine. You essentially need the cooling system to fail. (And cars do not have 'cool-by-wire'.)

      So, really, if you're looking to blame drive-by-wire, you're needing to postulate at least three serious failures, all at once. And at least one of them has to be mechanical.

      A much simpler explanation is what BoneFlower said, a spark setting off leaking vapors, either gas or hydrogen.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
  35. First Hand Experience by hubang · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Toyota has a serious problem. Have for years. It's not the floor mats.

    I was driving a '98 Toyota Camry. Foot on the brake. B-R-A-K-E. Yes, I know the difference. Car in drive. Waiting for a right turn. The car revved up high. I did manage to throw it into neutral, and the engine continued to surge. Luckily I didn't hit anything. And it was pure luck.

    The car did not have All-weather floor mats.

    I have racing experience, and a background in Mechanical Engineering.

    The reason the problem hasn't been found is that it's probably a subtle fault (like the AT&T crash back in the early '90s, or the stress concentrations in the DeHavilland Comet) and they're (by they I mean the NHTSA) probably not looking very thoroughly, due to lack of manpower. They don't do investigations of car crashes the way they do for other serious engineering failures, like plane crashes or bridge collapses.

    1. Re:First Hand Experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Aha! A data point!

    2. Re:First Hand Experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So what that it revved up high. You had the foot on the brake. Reboot the car and off you go. It could have been a single bit upset due to radiation, for all you know. There are enough cars out there that people will hit very, very "unlikely" events. Same goes for PCs.

    3. Re:First Hand Experience by XCondE · · Score: 1

      They don't do investigations of car crashes the way they do for other serious engineering failures, like plane crashes or bridge collapses.

      They do; after they apply the formula and X is more than the cost of fixing the problem.

    4. Re:First Hand Experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Did you have the air conditioning on?

    5. Re:First Hand Experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So what that it revved up high. You had the foot on the brake. Reboot the car and off you go. It could have been a single bit upset due to radiation, for all you know. There are enough cars out there that people will hit very, very "unlikely" events. Same goes for PCs.

      If enough people keep having "unlikely events" then the events are no longer unlikely. I'll admit, it is an "unlikely" event that a Windows box would ever need a reboot.

    6. Re:First Hand Experience by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      So what that it revved up high. You had the foot on the brake. Reboot the car and off you go. It could have been a single bit upset due to radiation, for all you know.

      No, it could not, because even the pathetic 8-bit MCU in my 1989 Nissan 240SX ran at 3MHz and it takes less than a million cycles for EVERYTHING to happen. Even the O2 sensor is checked more than four times a second. You are talking pure shit.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    7. Re:First Hand Experience by k8er · · Score: 1

      Well, my first hand experience is that the all weather mats DO cause this problem. Just because you had a different type of mechanical failure with a 10 year old Toyota doesn't mean that it is the same thing going on now.

      I drive a 6 speed manual Tacoma with all weather mats. The driver's mat always creeps up and is prone to get stuck of you floor the accelerator. It freaked me out the first couple of times that it happened. Both times I had floored the accelerator and it got hung on the approximately 3/4 inch floor mat. When I shifted gears, the tachometer pegged out. It sounded horrible. I think that there is some sort of governor that shuts it off as soon as it redlines, but it comes back on immediately and if you are in neutral it revs right back up again. It is very unsettling. It took me a second to figure out what happened, and I reached down an pulled the floor mat back. This happened twice before I developed the habit of constantly checking the floor mat and repositioning it. There seems to be a special hole in the carpet made for putting some sort of anchor for a floor mat, but the anchor was never actually implemented with those floor mats. I like Toyota's products, but those mats are an epic fail. Until this news came out, I always assumed that this only affected the Tacoma, and perhaps only my configuration. Aside from that problem, the driver's mat has worn through in less than two years.

      I can see a lot of users panicking and know knowing what to do. If you have an automatic, it is just going to accelerate unless you drop into neutral or shut off the engine. In my case, I caught the problem between gears and only had to worry about blowing the engine.

      Not that there might not be other types of problems on Toyotas out there, but we can stop spreading the FUD that the floormat theory is a cover up for a more serious wide spread mechanical or electronic problem. It is real and it is bad enough.

    8. Re:First Hand Experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      And just because your mats are messed up in your Tacoma has nothing to do with CARS on the Camry and Prius platforms.

    9. Re:First Hand Experience by hacksoncode · · Score: 1
      So did the car actually move with your foot pressed hard on the brake, or did it just surge?

      Did you ever try pressing both at maximum force in that car? Was the engine actually capable of overpowering the brakes?

      If it was, you had defective brakes. Not that uncommon. What would be extraordinarily uncommon is a throttle failure happening at the same time as a brake failure. Brakes that fail in such a way that the engine can overpower them are very obviously broken in normal use.

      If it wasn't, then what's the point here? People are idiots. Even smart people are idiots when they panic (even just a little).

    10. Re:First Hand Experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      There is no such thing as a subtle fault. Either there is faulting or there isn't one.

      A very large chunk of expert people in different organizations (not only Toyota) are looking into it. Not one shred of evidence about what you're talking about.
      Specialists are going where the facts lead them, and not you nor your alleged experience/profesional background means squat without evidence.

      Another interesting fact: there is not ONE report of this event outside the U.S.
      And just to be clear, I am not suggesting squat, THE EVIDENCE is suggesting it by itself.

      Be careful with what and how you say things. No, I'm not new here. Yes, I know this is slashdot. I'm just doing my part taking missinformation fires down.

      -Arc

      http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/nation/la-na-toyota-crash25-2009oct25,0,2288195.story

      Associated Press, "U.S. finds no fault with accelerator: Toyota", Japan Times, November 4, 2009, p. 1.

  36. Hasn't this been covered before? by bongey · · Score: 0

    Audi almost went bankrupt when 60 minutes investigated Audi's accelerating out of control. http://www.automobile.com/audi-investigated-for-unintended-acceleration.html
    In the end it was all just a fairytale.

    From working on cars , drag racing and that I work on autonomous car that needs an remote emergency stop. I find that the drivers couldn't stop the vehicle as a problem with the driver. Sorry for there loses but they should have payed attention in drivers education. I remember the old videos from the 70/80s where they went over if your throttle gets stuck what you should do. IMPO was more likely on older cars with a manual throttle cable would be come stuck or go out of control. The throttle in my Saturn has become stuck due to moisture in the throttle cable, along with cold temperatures; one time on the highway , one time coming out of the subdivision and I didn't go flying off a cliff.

    Fun facts for people that forgot drivers education.
    1) A fully depressed brake will stop the car even if the throttle is stuck.Unless your brakes fail also , or you have 500 lbs of torque, but I don't see Prius putting up those numbers.
    2) Kill the ignition. No ignition the engine stops quick. In fact your engine stops quicker if there is more fuel in the engine. In older cars with a carburetor when the car would "diesel" continue to run after the ignition is cut, flooring the gas instantly kills the engine.
    3) Put it in neutral. Nothing to explain there.

    1. Re:Hasn't this been covered before? by Technician · · Score: 1

      I remember one of the muscle cars in the '70s had a problem with the accelerator cable getting pinched against the hood on hard accelleration. It took a while to find the cause as most drivers switched off the igninton. The loss of torque released the cable so it too lots of trial and error and examination to find. I also remember driver's ed where stuck accellerator recovery was taught. The problem with a Prius is it can't be started in Neutral like many cars. This means you have to come to a complete stop and put it in park to restart it.

      --
      The truth shall set you free!
  37. Throttle Position Sensor by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

    I had this same problem with a 1989 Jeep Cherokee in 2000. People died because of similar problems. On the internet and in court, Jeep claimed it was user error. The problem is people don't know enough about their cars to diagnose it, but it turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor. Which would randomly rev the engine to 4000 RPM's instead of the idle of ~900 when you put it into gear. Yes, absolutely unpredictably. It was not easily duplicated for a mechanic, because when the TPS first started to go bad, it was very infrequent.

    The problem is your normal routine is start the car and put it into gear almost immediately. The engine takes more time to rev noticeably past idle speed, at which time you're already moving and lost control of the car. Jeep claimed this was an unreasonable explanation, because they had an engineer sit in the car, depress the brake, put the car into gear, and then rev the engine and be unable to overpower the brakes. I found this only to be true if I were standing on the brakes, something I wasn't in practice to do, from a stop. It also overlooked the problem that once you let the car start moving, getting it stopped again was extremely difficult.

    So everyone always assumes there are enough idiots out there for it to be driver error, but it happened to me, so I never trust any of the car manufacturers when this problem creeps up which it does fairly often. Also, it seems like extremely poor engineering on the manufacturer's part to fail to acknowledge this possible avenue of failure. Seems more like they are just covering their asses to avoid culpability.

    I was in college at the time, and this is probably one of the more valuable lessons I've ever learned in engineering and something I think would be valuable in software engineering also. Never, ever dismiss complaining customers as morons just because its the simplest explanation especially regarding a safety issue. People actually put up with a lot. More often than not, when people complain and it is difficult to do so, there is merit to the complaint. A proper investigation is required, and a open mind, and wide imagination help determine the failure states.

    1. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by Renraku · · Score: 1

      Mod parent up.

      There are many things besides pedal position that can potentially affect the throttle. Possibly something that is linked to failure of the brakes. However, in either circumstance, the car can be stopped by putting it in neutral to retain power steering and braking, or by turning off the ignition. Absolute worst case scenario is to look for whatever is going to do the least damage to stop you. Guard rail, runaway barriers, curbs, etc.

      Most people don't make it to step 2, however, and will hold the brakes to the floor (be it brakes or 'brakes' aka gas pedal) until someone dies for it. Imagine if they were on a cell phone at the time..the startle reaction probably wouldn't happen until they've hit something.

      --
      Job? I don't have time to get a job! Who will sit around and bitch about being broke and unemployed then?
    2. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "How in the hell could a car possible start accelerating on its own?"

      Quite easy actually. Even for a Non-drive by wire vehicle. Cars have to be able to meet emissions at idle, the throttle is closed at idle but the load on the engine still varies ,AC, alternator, etc so the ECU has to have a way to control the amount of air entering the engine. THis is done with a stepper motor contolled valve that bypasses the throttle plate. If this bypass circuit is wide open the engine will acelerate. If this valve gets worn or gummed up it can stick open. This happens on my 88 jeep with the french designed engine control system. Note that this is another vheicle that has a reputation for unintended acceleration. The stepper motor used to controll this valve does not have an encoder on it so the ECU has no idea where the valve is positioned or if it responed to the command to move.
        Also note that the engine produces a good amount of torque (~200 ftlbs just above idle) I can tell you from experience that when the engine decides to rev to 3000 rpm it takes a good bit of pressure on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving.

      Cleaning this motor and the throttle body is enough to make the problem go away, and shutting it off and restarting it a few times is enough to clear the fault.

      And yes I have replaced the TPS this did not seem to be the problem.

    3. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I had the TPS go bad on my 1998 Jeep Cherokee. This seems to be a common problem. I drove a standard transmission, so you can control the clutch if things go wonky. The fault was that the TPS disagreed with the MAP sensor. It would sometimes rev very high when it was supposed to be idling low. If it was an automatic I bet it would have surged ahead unexpectedly because I would have had it in "D".

    4. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My 1988 jeep does the same thing ... french ECU

      The Idle air stepper motor gets stuck open. Cleaning the stepper motor and the throttle body fixes it, when the problem happens shutting the engine off and restaring it a few times clears the fault.

      I have replaced the TPS but that did not seem to be the problem.

      Most cars have one of these bypass valves to control idle speed even the so called non-drive by wire vehicles.

    5. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by jaraxle · · Score: 1

      The fact is that when some people panic they freeze up and are unable to do anything else.

      You're probably exactly right here. I consider myself a fairly intelligent driver (perhaps I get a bit too aggressive/angry towards people who drive like morons) that keeps a clear head and drives safely. However, trying a dirtbike for the first time this summer, I wound up getting into a very embarrassing accident simply because I was unfamiliar and obviously not completely comfortable.

      I hopped on and, not realizing how touchy it was, pulled a bit on the accelerator handle while keeping my left hand over the brake just in case. However, the bike took off and I sort of got knocked off a bit. Despite having my left hand over the brake ready to pull on it, I wound up pulling harder on the accelerator instead, running myself and the bike into a chain link fence, then throwing myself over the bike. Nothing broken or bruised but my ego, but still... it's easy for even intelligent drivers to make idiotic mistakes like this when they're not fully comfortable with their situation.

      ~jaraxle

    6. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by minchazo · · Score: 1

      I think you need to write a TPS report on this issue. Don't forget the cover sheet.

    7. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      However, in either circumstance, the car can be stopped by putting it in neutral to retain power steering and braking, or by turning off the ignition.

      Except in these Toyotas, where you can't actually put the car in 'neutral' without computer consent, which they won't give if you're driving down the road.

      And, likewise, you can't cut the ignition unless you know the secret of holding the button down.

      The problem here isn't out of control cars. Cars occasionally have weird errors. Throttles get stuck open, pedals get stuck down, whatever.

      It's that no one trapped in these cars can actually figure out how to recover from these problems. Yes, we've always had morons unable to figure this out, who drive miles down the highway without being smart enough to turn off their car.

      But now we're got perfectly rational and intelligent people saying "Okay, I shifted to neutral, and the car kept going, so that didn't work. And I push the 'engine' button to turn it off but, um, it kept running. Um...okay...I'm out of 'things to do when your car is driving by itself'."

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    8. Re:Throttle Position Sensor by ThatsNotPudding · · Score: 1

      Yes, but do keep a proper sense of perspective! Jeep probably saved millions going with the cheaper TPS!

  38. Could be worse by mirix · · Score: 1

    They could have Lucas electrics.

    --
    Sent from my PDP-11
  39. there was in fact a recall by osssmkatz · · Score: 1

    of the floor mats, which jam the accelerator in some instances. People who refuse to get them replaced are putting themselves and others in danger.

  40. Had time to use a cell phone? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    My favorite quote from the article:

    Right before the crash, Saylor's brother-in-law called 911 from the backseat of the vehicle and said urgently, "Our accelerator is stuck. We're in trouble&There's no brakes."

    So there was time for the passenger to use a cell phone but no time for the driver to either:

    1) Turn off the engine
    2) Put the car in neutral
    3) Use the E-brake

    That is, of course, assuming an unlikely coincident failure of two independent systems in the car (hydraulic breaking system and throttle). . . .

    1. Re:Had time to use a cell phone? by Deluge · · Score: 1

      Maybe he didn't disengage his parking brake fully before setting off. I did that once and was mighty surprised by the brake pedal going almost to the floor and not doing much of anything. Add to that a stuck throttle (floormat or otherwise) and an idiot who can't think to turn off the ignition or put the car in neutral behind the wheel, and there's your accident.

  41. Sure about that? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I have a 2007 Sport RAV4 that I bought for my wife. I am usually driving rear-wheel-drive vehicles with stick or auto, so this is the first front-wheel-drive I have owned.

    Forget about the slight difference in handling, I have noticed a very odd issue with both the "fully electric" power steering and throttle. On at least several occassions where I was accelerating the vehicle suddenly surged forward as though the throttle had been floored. It was totally shocking each time it occurred to me. It had nothing to do with braking because my foot was on the accelerator the whole time and wasn't trying to slow down.

    The first time it happened to my wife she almost lost control of the car. I was very upset with her and asked what the hell she was doing, she said the car just surged on it's own. I didn't believe her until it happened to me several times. I have also seen a couple very strange transmission shifts that occurred.

    Seems like some buggy ECM logic to me.

    1. Re:Sure about that? by CuriHP · · Score: 1

      Any chance that this is actually something intentionally designed?

      My wife drives an 05 Mini Cooper with the CVT. As you depress the gas the car smoothly accelerates until you get near the floor. At that point you can feel it click past a little switch and the CVT will down shift to take you to just below redline.

      This is obviously not the same car or design, but something similar that a driver was unaware of could seem like a random acceleration.

      --
      If it's not on fire, it's a software problem.
    2. Re:Sure about that? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It doesn't have a CVT and the throttle position wasn't anywhere near wide-open-throttle. It was like a normal slow start after traffic light goes from red to green (well, normal for those people that don't fancy themselves a star of 2Fast2Furious). All of a sudden, its just like wide open throttle and thank god there wasn't a car in front of me or I could easily have tapped them before it settled down on its own.

      It wasn't:
      1) accidental throttle use when "braking".
      2) floor mat under the pedal (the mat is still stock, in proper position and captured by 2 hooks)
      3) stupid driver. (I have to apologize to my wife for thinking that was the case when it first happened with her at the wheel.)

  42. Go to the ABC site - watch video by ctmurray · · Score: 2, Informative

    The ABC web site has a video from Consumer's Report on what to do in case of uncontrolled acceleration. They use a Toyota to demonstrate that pumping the brakes results in brake failure - so the brakes cannot always overcome the engine. The Toyota off button requires holding down for three seconds, which is not obvious (until this happened) even to Toyota owners. They recommend putting into neutral and braking to demonstrate that this does work the best. At then end they show a VW where the full on brake does override the full on accelerator, and this is where good programing could make the car "failsafe" (I know, not the correct term but cut me some slack).

    1. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by shutdown+-p+now · · Score: 1

      They use a Toyota to demonstrate that pumping the brakes results in brake failure - so the brakes cannot always overcome the engine.

      This is insane. Why isn't this alone considered a major defect, regardless of any perceived or real problems with accelerator?

      Also, what about hand brake?

      Well, I guess I won't even be looking at Venza now when I go car shopping next year.

    2. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by Eskarel · · Score: 1, Troll

      Pumping the brakes always causes brake failure in cars with power assist braking. It always has. That's why no one teaches you to do it anymore.

    3. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by drinkypoo · · Score: 2, Informative

      Pumping the brakes always causes brake failure in cars with power assist braking. It always has. That's why no one teaches you to do it anymore.

      You are completely and totally fucking wrong. Shut the fuck up before you tell someone something that may KILL THEM.

      Pumping the brakes causes failure in the vast majority of vehicles equipped with ABS. It doesn't actually break anything, but you can't stop effectively while both you and the brake system are reducing braking force in order to try to modulate braking. SOME of the newest ABS-equipped vehicles can still work fine if you are pumping the brakes. These systems are most likely to be used in conjunction with traction or yaw control, because THESE are the vehicles with powerful pumps that can brake without you even pressing the pedal, unlike typical ABS such as that found in my '93 Impreza or on the back of my '92 F250. They need this functionality in order to be able to apply the brakes on an individual wheel, in order to yaw the vehicle.

      Power-assisted braking almost always uses a brake booster installed between the firewall and master cylinder, whose only purpose is to help you press the pedal. It does this either by using engine vacuum (or on the case of a turbo diesel or even most normal diesels, a vacuum pump) to pull on the M/C side, or by using hydraulic fluid pushed by the power steering pump to push on the firewall side. Either way, "pumping" the brakes happens in a TINY range of actuation, causing less than a quarter-inch of travel in the master cylinder, because you're really not pumping them. You're just modulating, letting up a tiny bit basically, then returning your foot to a braking position. Even if you were REALLY pumping the brakes (like you might do to build up pressure when braking, if there is a problem with your brake system) the booster would work fine so long as the engine was running.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    4. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by drrck · · Score: 1

      In my VW TDI full brake and accelerator causes the ECU to cut the fuel back to idle. It will not accelerate again until you completely release the brake and wait a few seconds.

    5. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by maxume · · Score: 1

      That people are willing to drive vehicles they do not know how to turn off is a massive failure of driver education.

      (I'm not sure I would have been bothered that I didn't know how to turn off the Prius, but I would be now...)

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    6. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by LinuxIsGarbage · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Pumping the brakes always causes brake failure in cars with power assist braking. It always has. That's why no one teaches you to do it anymore.

      For those that don't know, power assist brakes generally get their assist from engine vacuum. There is more vacuum when the throttle is closed (engine idling) than there is when the throttle is open (full acceleration). Normally there's enough stored energy to give one or two assisted full brake applications. After that you run out of assist and are completely manual. Even standing on the brakes might not be enough to overpower the engine, particularly if the driver is a petite woman. Try pumping the brakes with the engine off to see the loss off assist.

      The recommendation to not pump the brakes comes from inclimate weather. Cars with ABS it's the wrong thing to do. Step on the brake and let the ABS do the pulsing for you. Unfortunately many drivers don't realize that the pulsating pedal is normal in ABS cars and let up, or start pumping. In cars without ABS "threshold" braking is preferred, but it's a different technique that randomly pumping the brakes, but that's what people take away.

      As far as using the hand brake in this situation... good luck. In my car I can fully apply the hand brake, and the rear wheels will lock up, but I can continue to accelerate down the road.

      The truth is a shocking number of people don't know how to fully control their car. Given that it is capable of killing themselves or others if it's out of control, that's quite frightening.

    7. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by Eskarel · · Score: 1

      It won't actually break your brakes. It will prevent them from working for the duration of that particular stop.

      You won't kill anyone by saying "do not ever pump the breaks on a car with power assist braking". It's just never a good idea. Will it damage your brakes, no. Will it 99.99% of the time mean you're going to have one hell of a time actually stopping the car. Hell yes. Even in cars which handle it, it's not a good idea. Pumping the breaks used to work, it doesn't anymore.

    8. Re:Go to the ABC site - watch video by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Pumping the breaks used to work, it doesn't anymore.

      See, that's only true in cars with ABS, and they don't all have it.

      The only time pumping the brakes even repeatedly will harm you is when you're experiencing a runaway condition and your engine is at WOT, because it is probably not producing enough vacuum to operate them at their full potential. In most vehicles, though, the vacuum storage tank provides enough for a couple decent depressions... and in any case, you don't need that much travel. My vehicles both produce vacuum with a vacuum pump because they are turbocharged diesels, so they will produce more of it at full RPM... so I don't personally have to care about that, and can use my brakes as necessary. The Mercedes does not have any ABS, and the Ford only has it in the rear.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
  43. I also think not... by vaporland · · Score: 2, Informative

    My mom's best friend was killed when her husband was parking their Toyota Camry at a restaurant on the Pacific Coast Highway, and the car suddenly accelerated through a fence and off a tall cliff onto the rocks below. Her husband survived with severe injuries, and he swears that the whole floormat excuse is BS. The car had been giving them acceleration issues prior to this incident, but the mechanic they took it to could find nothing wrong.

    --
    Ask Me About... The 80's!
    1. Re:I also think not... by failedlogic · · Score: 1

      Wow. That's really sad. By the sound of it, he's really lucky to be alive.

    2. Re:I also think not... by vaporland · · Score: 1

      I did not realize it until I read the posted news article, but the crushed Camry in the photograph is his car. He's been devastated since the incident. My mom was also pretty upset as well. I drive a Corolla with a manual five speed...

      --
      Ask Me About... The 80's!
    3. Re:I also think not... by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Then just put it in neutral if it suddenly accelerates.

  44. Does it need a service pack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Besides the obvious, does it run on windows, how you fix this, are we going to start seeing service packs for cars?

  45. Well, then! by foo+fighter · · Score: 4, Funny

    Hundreds of Toyota owners?! Well, then: if a percentage of the population of Toyota owners of North Dakota are upset, by all means, everyone who has ever owned a Toyota should raise their torch and/or pitchfork!

    --
    obviously no deficiencies vs. no obvious deficiencies
    1. Re:Well, then! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hundreds of Toyota owners?! Well, then: if a percentage of the population of Toyota owners of North Dakota are upset, by all means, everyone who has ever owned a Toyota should raise their torch and/or pitchfork!

      We're talking about newer Toyotas, so the other hundreds - 12 gotta come from somewhere...

  46. Re:I hate to be mean about a possibly serious issu by Technician · · Score: 2, Informative

    One thing I haven't understood on the Prius floor mats. I don't know if this is on the newer models or not but the older sedans have a clip that prevents them from skidding up into the pedal. There has not been any reports of the retaining clip breaking, only the mats slid. I wonder if this is an issue on only newer ones.

    For a picture of the hole for the carpet clip;
    http://www.boston.com/cars/newsandreviews/overdrive/Toyota-floor-mat-proper-installation.jpg

    I've never had my mat come lose. Due to the shape shown in the photo, it can't get in the way unless it comes lose. If it comes lose, I'll remove it.

    --
    The truth shall set you free!
  47. Re:I have seen this... (Addendum) by Tablizer · · Score: 1

    ...being passed by Yugos

    one with a flat.
       

  48. Check /var/log/syslog? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Shouldn't it be possible in these computer-run-cars to check the logs and see if the brakes were actually applied while the accelerator was slammed? Perhaps I'm mistaken, but I thought they logged that type of stuff, similar to an airplane's black box (but not as sophisticated, obviously).

  49. adding year models affected. by Technician · · Score: 1

    The older Prius sedans are not affected. From the Boston Globe article with the photo above they list the affected model years.

    About 3.8 million Toyota and Lexus models are affected, including the 2007-2010 Camry, 2005-2010 Avalon, 2004-2009 Prius, 2005-2010 Tacoma, 2007-2010 Tundra, 2007-2010 ES 350, and the 2006-2010 IS 250 and IS350.

    My 2002 isn't in the list. Only the hatchbacks are.

    --
    The truth shall set you free!
  50. Just like the Therac-25... by Mr.Radar · · Score: 1

    ... it's probably a race condition causing the problem.

    --
    What if this signature were clever?
  51. Not Gas! by beej · · Score: 1

    I honestly don't know what the deal is, here--I'm sure a complex software system like that has bugs.

    That being said, I'm certain that a small percentage of the Toyota-driving population accidentally steps on the gas instead of the brake, when they are 100% sure they are stepping on the brake. There are plenty of videos floating around of people in parking lots stomping on the gas at the last minute and plowing into cars or restaurants.

  52. Shift to neutral by networkzombie · · Score: 1

    All these posts remind me of when my 1972 Buick, a small block 350 with a Rochester four jet and 220 HP, had a half eaten acorn left on my intake manifold by a squirrel/chipmunk trying to keep warm while enjoying a snack. The result was a stuck throttle. If I accelerated the acorn shell kept the throttle wide open. Even with the gear shift on the tree I was easily able to find neutral in a split second. Any competent driver can shift to neutral and/or turn off the car (a feature I believe is mandatory in all U.S. cars). Sure you end up with armstrong steering and greatly reduced braking power, but they still work. Sure I almost killed a few people, but I didn't. I shifted to neutral. That was 25 years ago and I still have that half eaten acorn. With my current car (Acura) I am fully aware that I may need to shift to neutral or turn the vehicle off, and I have, just to make sure the vehicle operates as I expect. Learn to control your vehicle or get the fuck off the road.

    1. Re:Shift to neutral by Runaway1956 · · Score: 1

      Hooray for common sense. Who watched the article on the news last evening? A cop - or all people a COP - called 911, to tell them that his car was accelerating, and he had no brakes. OK, good for him - he now has a car out of control, and he chooses to dial his fucking CELL PHONE. So, he's talking for several seconds - maybe half a minute. Then he runs through an intersection, crashes into someone, and I think he was killed.

      I say - GOOD DEAL!! Thanks to Charles Darwin, I know that the gene pool has been filtered just a little bit.

      NOT ONCE did he think to shift to neutral, or to turn the key off, or to pull the EMERGENCY brake, or to steer into something like the barriers alongside the road. The damn fool drove at an ever increasing speed into a busy intersection.

      This fool's parents didn't wade very far out into the gene pool. No one ever told him, "HANG UP AND DRIVE, STUPID!" To him, it was more important to TALK TO SOMEONE, than to solve the problem.

      So long, sucker.

      --
      "Windows is like the faint smell of piss in a subway: it's there, and there's nothing you can do about it." - Charlie Br
    2. Re:Shift to neutral by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Did you even READ the FUCKING ARTICLE? (of course not, this is slashdot).

      It was his Brother-In-Law that was on the phone:

      n the tape, Lastrella tells the dispatcher, “We're in a Lexus. We're going north 125 and our accelerator is stuck.”

      The dispatcher asks where they are and Lastrella asks others in the car before replying, “We're going 120 (mph)! Mission Gorge! We're in trouble – we can't – there's no brakes, Mission Gorge -- end freeway half mile.”

      The dispatcher asks if they can turn the car off.

      Lastrella doesn't answer and says repeatedly: “We are now approaching the intersection, we're approaching the intersection, we're approaching the intersection.”

      The 50-second tape ends with someone saying “hold on” and “pray.” Lastrella says: “Oh, shoot -- oh -- oh” And then a woman screams.

      [...]

      Witnesses told San Diego 6 News they saw fire coming from the wheels of the 2009 Lexus ES 350 before it crashed. That indicated "long, constant, heavy braking," said San Diego Sheriff's lead investigator Scott Hill in an interview with the U-T.

      -AC

  53. not well-programmed == not well-understood by ChipMonk · · Score: 1

    If sensible input creates wonky output, it doesn't matter how well we understand the physical components. A screwy program will screw with the components in ways the operator doesn't expect or want. Google "breathalyzer source code" or "therac-25" for simple proof. More examples abound.

  54. a computer?! in a car?! it'll never catch on by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    My car doesn't have this problem.
    Possibly because the only electronic device on the whole vehicle is the auto-reverse cassette deck

  55. Up in arms? by dakameleon · · Score: 1

    One might suggest that if people are dying, you'd want to be more than up in arms, before people end up in trees.

    (thanks, I'll be here all week)

    --
    Man who leaps off cliff jumps to conclusion.
  56. OMG - I own a Nissan Sentra and it happened to me. by crispytwo · · Score: 5, Informative

    The government & Toyota are probably right about the floor mat. But that's what recalls are for.

    This is exactly what happened to me and I was heading to a cliff - 3rd gear - floored and I had the presence of mind to turn off the ignition. Seriously - I was terrified.

    Picture this, you turn a corner, accelerate, change gears, and suddenly you are going around 80 Km/h with about 1 block to the edge of cliff and a 90 degree turn on a residential street with a cliff in front of you.

    I had the time to turn off the ignition and jerk to a stop... BTW taking it out of gear under full acceleration is not simple either. I can hear the vacuum cleaner sound of the engine too - it was crazy. However, when the engine red-lines - it kill the accelerator for a second and then lets it restart... grabbing the ****ing anything with that is un-fun.

    AFTER it stopped I could diagnose the problem being that the driver's side floor mat came off the hook that is supposed to hold it in place and inched up over the gas-pedal... thus couldn't un-press it until the carpet was pulled back.

    Since there was a slot in the peg that holds the carpet in place, I took a handy dandy twist tie and wrapped the peg with the carpet in place preventing the carpet from EVER popping off that peg. Since then - no scary shit.

    Toyota and Nissan should fix this problem - at their cost - and it should be a recall. - After all - it's a 10 cent fix - a peg that has a simple spring latch on top would fix it with no problems. Picture hanger anchors have used that technique for decades now.

  57. I've had the problem by Xerfas · · Score: 2, Informative

    This year I've been driving 4 different Toyota Yaris and 2 Toyota Auris from 2009. The floor mat stuck on the gas pedal on all 6 cars which can be a bit annoying when driving 75 mph on the freeway and some idiot is stuck in 70-72 mph and you can't pass him because you got someone else driving past in the outer lane. Just breaking while the gas pedal is stuck is no fun. First time this happened I almost panicked, but I managed to remove the floor mat in time. So I wouldn't call this an electrical glitch, you just need to move the floor mat back 2-3 inches and this doesn't happen.

    1. Re:I've had the problem by cheros · · Score: 1

      Funny that. My dad's a Toyota fan (must be his age, it used to be VW Passat :-), but I'll wind him up about this the next time I see him.

      My Audi has its floor mats anchored so they don't shift (you unclip them from the pillars that hold them in place for cleaning), and thus don't get in the way.

      I'm actually surprised that this can happen, AFAIK Toyota is normally pretty thorough in its design. OK, it still looks plasticky and very Japanese but it's normally all pretty thought through. Let's see what happens next.

      --
      Insert .sig here. Send no money now. Owner may sue, contents will settle. Batteries not included.
  58. Some automakers (e.g., Audi) are framed. by reporter · · Score: 2, Interesting
    This sudden-acceleration problem in the Toyota Camry inspires a feeling of deja vu.

    About 20 years ago, the Audi 5000S had the same supposed problem. You can read about the problem at the "New York Times", the "Los Angeles Times", and the "Business & Media Institute".

    The trouble began when "60 Minutes" (of CBS News) broadcast a story about a woman who killed her son when she accidentally pressed the accelerator pedal instead of the brake pedal. Her son was standing in front of the car. The woman, refusing to admit guilt, accused Audi of producing a defective car which accelerates automatically without driver intervention. She even filed a lawsuit against Audi. (Later, the court determined that she was at fault, but that fact was never broadcast in the original "60 Minutes" program.)

    The sales of Audi vehicles fell dramatically after that "60 Minutes" program.

    The Audi 5000S was never defective, but it did have 1 minor inconvenience. The accelerator pedal and the brake pedal were much closer to each other than they were in a traditional American car. This closeness was something to which a small subset of American drivers could not become accustomed. They sometimes did press the accelerator pedal when they intended to press the brake pedal.

    As for the Toyota Camry, is it defective? The probability of it being defective is higher than the probability of the Audi 5000S being defective. Consumer-safety standards in Japan are lower than the standards in the European Union.

    Even from an engineering perspective, the Toyota Camry is a dangerous design. For example, the transmission is mechanically separated from the automatic-transmission lever (that the driver uses to change gears). The lever is connected to an electronic box that sends some electrical signals -- along copper wires -- to the tranmission to control it: the process is drive-by-wire. Supposedly, Toyota used 2 identical sets of wires (for reasons of fault tolerance) from the electronic box to the transmission.

    Another participant in this discussion claims that Toyota also mechanically separated the accelerator pedal from the fuel line. Toyota appears to have used drive-by-wire throughout the design to eliminate some metal -- thus saving money.

    Do not trust the fault tolerance in mass-merchandise products. Fault tolerance is expensive and is meant to be expensive. Toyota likely tried to save some money on the fault tolerance, and it was not able to protect the vehicle from the 1-in-1,000,000 chance of a transient fault in the electronic circuits. The chance of a glitch is low, but the probability that it occurs exactly once among 200,000 vehicles is high.

    The fact that only a handful of people have been affected by the freak accelerations matches a distribution of a low-probability electrical glitch. If you own a Toyota Camry, I suggest that you sell it as quickly as possible and get an old-fashioned-technology vehicle without the drive-by-wire. The Ford Fusion exceeds the quality of the Toyota Camry, does not use drive-by-wire, and costs much less than the Toyota deathtrap. Think about it.

    1. Re:Some automakers (e.g., Audi) are framed. by mewsenews · · Score: 1

      The Ford Fusion exceeds the quality of the Toyota Camry, does not use drive-by-wire, and costs much less than the Toyota deathtrap.

      This is the worst astroturfing I've ever seen. The Toyota Camry is the best selling car in the United States. Think about it.

    2. Re:Some automakers (e.g., Audi) are framed. by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Most GM cars sold from 2001- now use electronic transmission control and electronic fuel control.

      They do not suffer these problems. There fore your assertation that drive by wire is dangerous is simply silly.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
  59. Sue your parents! by syousef · · Score: 1

    Problem exists between accelerator and chair?

    Cool! That means I can avoid responsibility by suing my manufacturer! Always wanted a way to get back at my parents! MUhahahhahaha.

    --
    These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
  60. how american by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'm causing an accident, let's blame the car. Let's blame, and therefore sue, anything or anyone. How very, very american.

  61. Fight Club rule! by Hurricane78 · · Score: 1

    I can't believe, that nobody mentioned the rule from Fight Club:

    Narrator: A new car built by my company leaves somewhere traveling at 60 mph. The rear differential locks up. The car crashes and burns with everyone trapped inside. Now, should we initiate a recall? Take the number of vehicles in the field, A, multiply by the probable rate of failure, B, multiply by the average out-of-court settlement, C. A times B times C equals X. If X is less than the cost of a recall, we don't do one.
    Woman on plane: Are there a lot of these kinds of accidents?
    Narrator: You wouldn't believe.
    Woman on plane: Which car company do you work for?
    Narrator: A major one.

    --
    Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
  62. naive explanation for the crashed lexus by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    "panicked and didn't press the brakes hard enough."

    well, if I was put into that situation, I guess I will use all my muscles!

    The Lexus did not stop is probably due to its lacking of a “smart-throttle” technology which is standard on German autos such as VW or MB.

    http://blogs.consumerreports.org/cars/2009/10/toyota-recall-putting-stuck-floor-mat-survival-strategies-to-the-test.html

  63. I, Toyota! by dogganos · · Score: 1

    Isaak Asimov has said it all...

  64. Totota problems..... by stfvon007 · · Score: 2, Interesting

    A friend of mine just had her toyotas engine die because a cheap $20 hose was prone to failure, When it failed, the oil all leaked out WITHOUT the oil light coming on. This issue has occured for quite a few people with the Toyota Avalons (though almost all the ones with this issue were made in the same year)

    --
    All misspellings and grammatical errors in the above post are intentional and part of my artistic expression.
    1. Re:Totota problems..... by confused+one · · Score: 3, Informative

      I'm not discounting your friends problem, it certainly is bad. Point is though, funny thing about the oil light: by the time it comes on, it is too late anyway. The oil light is triggered by a pressure sensor on an oil gallery on the engine block, which is fed directly by the oil pump. If that pressure switch is activated (by low pressure), then there is insufficient pressure being generated by the pump (usually due to failure or complete lack of oil supply). By the time a typical driver reacts to the oil light and stops the car, the engine has been running for some minutes, under load, with no oil pressure to the bearings. Since the crankshaft and camshaft bearings rely on oil pressure to float the shaft in the center of the bearing cavity... the bearings are usually damaged.

    2. Re:Totota problems..... by Runaway1956 · · Score: 0, Flamebait

      Ever actually CHECK the oil? You know, raise the hood, pull the dipstick out, wipe it, put it back in, pull it out, and READ IT?

      They are called "idiot lights" for a reason. There is just a little light bulb glowing, to let you know that something is wrong. Sometimes, light bulbs don't work. At the other end is a sensor. Sometimes, sensors don't work. Want to be half-ass sure? Demand a GUAGE on your dash. Screw an idiot light. To be really sure, CHECK THE OIL!

      People who rely on idiot lights shouldn't be permitted to drive. These are the same people who need an air pressure warning system for their vehicles, because they are to stupid to walk around their vehicle, and CHECK their tires.

      --
      "Windows is like the faint smell of piss in a subway: it's there, and there's nothing you can do about it." - Charlie Br
    3. Re:Totota problems..... by OnlineAlias · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Ever drive a modern BMW? No dipstick. That's right, no checking the oil at all.

      Besides, checking oil level only determines if there is enough oil in the sump, not if there is a major failure of the oil system. For that you need a gauge or an idiot light.

    4. Re:Totota problems..... by nmg196 · · Score: 1

      You're still driving a car which has a physical dipstick and a wooden running board? Oh well, I hope you get a better job soon :)

    5. Re:Totota problems..... by Runaway1956 · · Score: 1

      You're serious? No dipstick? I'm surrounded by freaking idiots. Forget what I said about idiot lights. Good God Almighty.

      --
      "Windows is like the faint smell of piss in a subway: it's there, and there's nothing you can do about it." - Charlie Br
    6. Re:Totota problems..... by tom17 · · Score: 1

      THIS.

      And not to mention the fact that everyone I talk to thinks that the oil light means "Oh, I best pull over when I get a chance and check the oil level or something"

    7. Re:Totota problems..... by GameboyRMH · · Score: 1

      Wow, that's really screwed up, I can't imagine how that happened. The oil pressure sensor should be attached at the oil pump's output, so it lights up as soon as oil flow becomes insufficient. If the oil light really didn't come on when the oil was gone, either the sensor was bad (if the light is on when the key is on the ON position but the engine is off, and goes off as the engine starts up, the sensor is OK) or some kind of MAJOR design flaw. I hope she got a rental car and got a new engine under warranty...

      --
      "When information is power, privacy is freedom" - Jah-Wren Ryel
    8. Re:Totota problems..... by tom17 · · Score: 1

      And no throttle cables. Welcome to this century!

    9. Re:Totota problems..... by Dun+Malg · · Score: 1

      Hell, I drive a 20 year old volkswagen with pushrods, rocker arms, and 2 valves per cylinder. I can fix it by the roadside with beer cans and baling wire.... which is a good thing, because they crap out fairly often.... I can afford a better car, but in my mind a better car DOES NOT EXIST! Until they make a 4WD van with an engine in the back where it BELONGS, I will continue to drive my Syncro.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    10. Re:Totota problems..... by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      The oil light problem, while serious enough, is at least fixable, even if it does tell you your engine's cooked.

      But I guess there must be many of us who have reported a fault to their service agents only to be told that "we can't fault it". Meaning that rather than undo a single screw or bolt, what they've done is plug your car into their magic black box, waited for it to go "bing" and then hit you with a big bill for the "service".

      Maybe what we need is a Campaign For Real Cars which can only be fixed by someone who is prepared to actually get a little bit of oil on his hands. Even then, unless you get lucky in your choice of mechanic, you're probably better off doing the work yourself.

    11. Re:Totota problems..... by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Checking the OIL gives you lots of indicators if you are educated in how to check it. Looking for water or other contamination as well as oil level and if there is any oil consumption.

      The Idiot light = you just fried your engine. low oil pressure at highway speeds = toasted crank bearings and a destroyed cam in very short order. Well designed cars will cut the fuel pump when the oil light comes on.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    12. Re:Totota problems..... by Rakeris · · Score: 1

      I'm not discounting your friends problem, it certainly is bad. Point is though, funny thing about the oil light: by the time it comes on, it is too late anyway. The oil light is triggered by a pressure sensor on an oil gallery on the engine block, which is fed directly by the oil pump. If that pressure switch is activated (by low pressure), then there is insufficient pressure being generated by the pump (usually due to failure or complete lack of oil supply). By the time a typical driver reacts to the oil light and stops the car, the engine has been running for some minutes, under load, with no oil pressure to the bearings. Since the crankshaft and camshaft bearings rely on oil pressure to float the shaft in the center of the bearing cavity... the bearings are usually damaged.

      Not entirely true, some newer vehicles ( I would assume most/all but can't say from first hand exp.) electronically monitor oil levels. My care for example (02 Camaro) Throws the oil light whenever it's 2quarts low, (holds almost 6 quarts). Tested this one time before changing the oil. (stared it up, let it run for a minute, and see if the light comes on) Tested it on a 99 dodge RAM as well, same thing.

      --
      If brute force isn't working, you are not using enough.
    13. Re:Totota problems..... by iamhassi · · Score: 1

      "You're serious? No dipstick? I'm surrounded by freaking idiots. Forget what I said about idiot lights. Good God Almighty."

      Why isn't there a idiot light for oil level? If the dipstick and show empty/full, can't a idiot light come on showing low oil levels? Pulling on a dipstick in 2009 is stupid. Does anyone check oil levels when they're getting gas? I've never seen anyone pop the hood and check the oil level. New cars even have idiot lights for low tire pressure, so where's the low oil light already?

      --
      my karma will be here long after I'm gone
    14. Re:Totota problems..... by confused+one · · Score: 1

      Well that's certainly an improvement over the behaviour of all of my previous vehicles. Now I'll have to look at my wife's 2003 Honda to see if they implemented something similar in it.

    15. Re:Totota problems..... by Runaway1956 · · Score: 0

      Allow me to explain. "Idiot lights" are named so, because only idiots depend on them. They don't work reliably. If you want to be sure that there is air in your tires, and oil in your engine, you PHYSICALLY INSPECT them. Ditto for the fuel tank - no truck driver worthy of the name trusts his fuel guage, he LOOKS.

      An OIL GUAGE is reliable. An AIR GUAGE is reliable. A FUEL GUAGE is generally reliable - most are off, but once you get used to it, it's fairly reliable.

      Trusting a light bulb hooked up to a computer is simply nuts.

      --
      "Windows is like the faint smell of piss in a subway: it's there, and there's nothing you can do about it." - Charlie Br
    16. Re:Totota problems..... by cvtan · · Score: 1

      You are right that there is no dipstick, but there is an on-board sensor system to check the oil level so it's incorrect to say there is no checking the oil at all. There is also no way that an electronic system can be as reliable as a dipstick, so I'm not in favor of this high-tech solution to a non-problem. If the engine is overfilled, there is no way to tell and you have to take the oil out, measure it and put it back in. This is dumb. I have a 2007 Prius subject to the recall. The mats are held down via two hooks that stick out of the floor at the rear edge. I find it hard to believe that they could slide forward at all. What I really don't understand is how the car continues to accelerate when people have both feet on the brakes. I have tried this with two BMWs - floor the throttle and step on the brake. The brakes win every time. The Prius also is an underpowered vehicle so it should be even easier to stop. This makes me think the brakes don't work at the same time the throttle is wide open. That would be bad... Also, with a keyless push button engine start, it is not obvious how to turn the car off; you can't just take out the key.

      --
      Sorry, but gray text on gray background is making my eyes bleed.
    17. Re:Totota problems..... by onemorechip · · Score: 1

      I have a 2007 Prius subject to the recall. The mats are held down via two hooks that stick out of the floor at the rear edge. I find it hard to believe that they could slide forward at all.

      Got plastic floor mat covers (the ones used to protect the floor mats from mud)? These don't have holes where the hooks are. They can slip forward. I drilled holes in mine to solve the problem.

      What I really don't understand is how the car continues to accelerate when people have both feet on the brakes. I have tried this with two BMWs - floor the throttle and step on the brake. The brakes win every time.

      I'm guessing the cars that have the problem don't close the throttle when the brake is pressed. I don't know about BMWs, but I think the nature of a hybrid design implies the throttle will close when you step on the brake; I would imagine a drive-by-wire conventional engine would do this, too.

      --
      But, I wanted socialized health insurance!
    18. Re:Totota problems..... by stfvon007 · · Score: 1

      It was out of warrenty, but was a major design flaw. (Toyota issued a recall due to this issue about a week after it happened to her car.) Currently there is class action lawsuit about the flaw. She had just checked the oil levels a few days before, but because the flaw was in an oil line that burst during driving, the oil all leaked out before she knew what had happened.

      --
      All misspellings and grammatical errors in the above post are intentional and part of my artistic expression.
  65. Full throttle = Low Vacuum = Low Power Assist by bretberger · · Score: 1

    At full throttle engine vacuum drops and most of the power assist for the brakes disappears.

  66. Black Box ? by DavidD_CA · · Score: 1

    I admit I know nothing about cars, let alone their computer systems.

    But I always thought that modern cars had some kind of primitive "black box" type feature that would record things like acceleration, breaking, speed... I dunno what else, and tie that into the air bag deployment.

    I have no idea WHY I assume this, but it's always been floating around in my mind.

    Can anyone confirm or set me straight on this?

    --
    -David
    1. Re:Black Box ? by mikep554 · · Score: 1

      There are a few newer models on the road with this type of functionality (OnStar vehicles?), but most road-going cars do not have such a feature. It would create extra cost on the car, so unless the government mandates it as a safety feature or the the dealers can sell it as an extra-cost option, I wouldn't expect that to change.

  67. It's happened to me... by malv · · Score: 1

    I had this happen with a Saturn. I was in a drive through waiting to get to the window when they car suddenly lurched towards the vehicle infront of me. I nearly rear-ended him, but luckily I was able to cut the gas in time.

  68. similar problems by MSG · · Score: 1

    I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of other cars had similar problems. I was on the freeway a couple of years ago in my 2005 VW Jetta. The cruise control was still on, but was not active after I'd braked to slow down while passing through relatively denser traffic. For no apparent reason, the car began accelerating as if the "resume" button had been pressed. I didn't collide with any other drives, but it spooked me pretty good. I still use the cruise control, but I always turn it off entirely as soon as I decide to slow down.

  69. no way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    good luck, trying to pull the handbrake so hard, that it will stop a car going full-throttle ahead...

    1. Re:no way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's a lot easier once the clutch is down...

  70. Did I miss the joke? by rakslice · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Hey, when you come up with that Ford Fusion that has a non-electronically controlled automatic transmission and that doesn't have the electronic throttle control that they're wallpapering the world with press releases about, I've got some nice land to sell you to park it on...

    1. Re:Did I miss the joke? by toddestan · · Score: 1

      Well, you can buy a Fusion with a 6-speed manual transmission (in theory, I have yet to see one in person). But you're stuck with the electronic throttle control.

  71. Such story are doubtful by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Why would this happens only in the US market ? They don't do a software+hardware for the US, they do the same world wide, it would be costly to adapt the software. Now think about this : why such story never happen in Europe ? Here is an answer for you : last time this happened people were pushing the wrong pedal. And after various people checked this over in many accident, I betcha this is the same problem. People panicked and hit the wrong pedal.

  72. My Chysler PT Cruiser did this too by OrangeTide · · Score: 1

    But my problem wasn't a computer glitch, some part go jammed into the lever for the throttle and it was stuck at about 2/3rd down. Was really fun to park with the engine roaring and having to stand with my full weight on the break to have it just creep along. My problem wasn't internal to the car, flipping the throttle and pounding on it trying to get it "unstuck" didn't work for me. It was an issue of components inside the engine compartment, something I can't address myself without basically removing the entire engine (thanks Chrysler, the parts are cheap but the hours of labor to replace them really keeps my mechanic in business)

    This is a common mechanical problem that has plague cars since the beginning, and people have been killed by throttles that have gone out of out control. I don't see any practical difference between one that has broken physically, like mine, and one that is the result of a computer glitch. Either way, it's an unacceptable situation with essentially the same outcome. A dangerously uncontrollable vehicle that needs to be repaired.

    --
    “Common sense is not so common.” — Voltaire
    1. Re:My Chysler PT Cruiser did this too by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      A PT Cruiser is a fucked over Neon. The Neon is the biggest piece of shit on the American road, this is not an exaggeration. Not only are they horribly unreliable but they have the worst crash ratings on the American road, too. To make a Neon into a PT cruiser, they raise the engine four inches and take a gigantic shit on the rear suspension, which eliminates everything good about the Neon (handling.) Then they put a pie wagon body with shit rear visibility on it to make sure that you will have a better than average chance of backing over someone or something. You deserve what you got.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    2. Re:My Chysler PT Cruiser did this too by RogL · · Score: 1

      Quite the vivid description - incredibly wrong, but very lively.

      The PT Cruiser has an excellent rear suspension - very good handling for it's size/shape, especially on the highway. You could nit-pick the base suspension's body-roll on tight turns, but it can be rolled around curves briskly. They had to use a "flat" suspension to get the flat load floor - they actually picked a good design.

      Interestingly, the European crash-tests rate the PT high for side-impact - but the American tests rate it poorly. The front-impact tests are the reverse. Depends on exactly how you test, I guess.

      Have you ever driven a PT? I've driven PTs from 2001 & 2005, been impressed with the handling & brakes on both cars. My wife owns a 2005, reasonably reliable so far - needed an oxygen-sensor replaced, that's it so far.

  73. KG by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    This reminds me of the recent article in Wired Magizine about Autism being caused by Vaccinations.
    Sure the overwhelming scientific/engineering evidence points to User Error,
    but a collection of well intentioned, but unverifiable, personal stories keep it alive.

  74. Runaway Prius = Danger! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/10/tesla-electric-car-accident-denmark-prius-suv.php
    and
    http://wattsupwiththat.com/2009/11/01/prius-and-tesla-gang-up-on-suv-the-suv-wins/

    Here's an example of the levels of damage a Prius can do. (Example from Denmark)
    I realize this probably is a bit OT since the Prius-driver was at fault (didn't notice the SUV, the Tesla and a motorbike stopping at a junction), but it is impressive, not to mention scary, to see the kind of damage a small car like the Prius can do. The Tesla is LITERALLY wedged under the SUV.

    BTW: No-one was hurt, the motorbike is in the bushes somwhere (not in photo).

    T-Bone

  75. brakes, neutral, brakes, ignition off by AliasMarlowe · · Score: 3, Interesting

    You put the car in neutral and the engine goes to 8000RPM. That will freak you out, I guarantee.

    Not really. I had a 1980 Ford Granada (US/Canadian model with 4.1L 6 cylinder automatic http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Granada_(North_America), a totally different car to the European model) in the early 80s. Its throttle was entirely mechanical, and the linkage to the butterfly valve involved a rod which twisted when the gas pedal was pushed down. One of the cheap clips holding this rod at one end got broken, and as a result, when I floored the throttle (required for manoevering in fast traffic on urban expressways), one of the engine hoses got jammed under it, effectively locking the trottle wide open.

    I think the other highway users were more freaked out than I was, since I was driving with the brake lights on while holding the car at the speed of the traffic (65-75mph). There was no shoulder to stop on, but it was only a few km to the next exit ramp, where I dropped to neutral and then switched off the motor (as it raced towards bursting speed) and coasted to a safe halt with manual brakes and manual steering. A quick look under the hood revealed the problem, but I waited a few minutes extra to allow the motor and brakes to cool properly, before continuing home.

    Despite driving more cautiously, I had the same thing happen two more times, before the clip was replaced a couple of days later.

    --
    Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities. - Voltaire
  76. It's called Cruise Control by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

    I've had no problems with my Prius, however I did experience something similar to what those drivers are complaining about when I had cruise control turned on and active (set to a specific speed, as opposed to having no speed set). When cruise control is on and I tap the break to slow down and temporarily take the car off cruise control, if I don't touch any of the pedals for a few seconds and the car continues to decelerate, cruise control will kick back in and accelerate the car back up to the set speed. I would not be at all surprised if the problem was actually due to misuse or misunderstanding of cruise control.

    Hell, some people are stupid enough that they need to be specifically told that just because cruise control is on, doesn't mean you can get up to go make a sandwich while driving, I guess they also need to be told that cruise control will cause the vehicle to maintain a set speed with no throttle or break input. Oh wait, that's specifically what it does.

    1. Re:It's called Cruise Control by Ogive17 · · Score: 1

      Really, your car's cruise will re-engage if you don't touch any pedals for a few seconds? That just doesn't seem right, even if that is the designed functionality. If I want to turn cruise off, let's say I'm approaching some traffic and have a slight downward slop that still decelerates me, but very slowly.. I don't want it to suddenly kick back on.

      --
      "Action without philosophy is a lethal weapon; philosophy without action is worthless."
  77. ... And the Federal Government? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    So, now every time there's news to be had the Federal Government have to give us their genius insight? You might as well say, "Hey we're lying to you... and to prove it, the biggest liars in the room agree with us!"

    The only thing I want the Federal Government to say to me is "yes sir". I've gone to sleep in America and Woken up in Soviet Russia, eh?

  78. This all happened to Audi in the 1980s! by elwinc · · Score: 1
    At least some of these cases happen when the driver doesn't realize his/her foot is on the accelerator not the brake. This is known as 'pedal misapplication.'

    In 1986, CBS TV show 60 Minutes aired a program about unintended acceleration ini the Audi 500S. As far as I can tell, the '5000 (AKA the Audi 100/200) is not drive by wire. Wikipedia has an article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/60_Minutes#Unintended_acceleration that claims NHTSA and Transport Canada both found the problem was operator error and that CBS partially retracted their claim. Didn't help Audi's sales though.

    Here's a guy claiming it can't be double pedal actuation because brakes are stronger than V8 engines: http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/in-defense-of-the-audi-5000/.

    --
    --- Often in error; never in doubt!
  79. Duh duh Duh by tanveer1979 · · Score: 1

    They show more speed because they want you to drive slower??
    I don't think such weird explanations are needed.
    The fact is that its impossible to design a speedometer(conventional) which will show you exact speed. So you are always going to have some error based on tire inflation etc.,
    Now its your Speedo showed less speed than actual, and you got ticketed, it would mean lawsuits, so its safer for the mfrs to show more speed than actual,
    Imagine you are in a 65 zone, and you are at 70 and speedo shows 65, you get ticketed. Big lawsuit problem. So they go the other way, err on the side of caution. 2-5% is there in almost all cars.

    --
    My Aurora : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o91ZsGwJYyg
    FB : https://www.facebook.com/TanveersPhotography
  80. Up in arms? by Slashcrap · · Score: 1

    If your car suddenly accelerates I would have thought you'd be better off keeping your hands firmly on the wheel.

  81. Why he could not shift to neutral or turn it off: by jhein · · Score: 1

    From the RISKS Digest:

    There have been several recent cases where Toyotas have suddenly accelerated
    out of control.

    The most notable had a passenger who called 911 and reported her spouse, a
    Calf. Highway Patrol officer who taught driving safety, was unable to stop
    their car. They crashed with all on board killed.

    Toyota has recalled several million cars to replace a floor mat that may jam
    the accelerator.

    But the crash raises the question: why couldn't an experienced officer stop
    a runaway car?

    a) It was a loaner from the dealer.
    b) It was equipped with a keyless RFID ignition lock. To force such off, you
    must *hold* the Start button down for 3+ seconds; touching it is
    ineffective.
    c) The transmission was some mix of manual and automatic, with a series of
    gates to keep you from mis-shifting. Apparently there is no clutch pedal.
    d) There were passerby reports the car brakes were on fire as it went by.

    I see two big risks here. The first is changing longstanding,
    well-understood, user interfaces without considering the uninitiated
    driver. While Windows may have taught some of us that of course we use the
    Start button to stop; it's not clear such learning transfers to driving.
    And when you hide a vital safety function behind a time delay....

    The second is more alarming. I thought that there was a {?unwritten}
    requirement that no US road-legal car could even overpower its own brakes;
    i.e., given full throttle and full brakes; the car stops, period. (This may
    not be the case for a dedicated race car...)

    Is this no longer true? Are there production cars where the brakes can't
    stop a runaway? (That does not say you couldn't fade the brakes into
    worthlessness, but we can assume the driver knew that.)

    There are obvious add-ons that could reduce the possibility of a recurrence
    [Tie brake activation to a throttle cutoff, add a real STOP button to the
    dash, etc.] but those add complexity or direct costs...and may provoke new
    problems.

    While Toyota's head is now on the chopping block; they won't be the last.

  82. We've seen this before in the Audi by tkrotchko · · Score: 1

    http://www.audifans.com/archives/1998/07/msg02207.html

    People forget that when the Audi 5000 was released, it was hit with the same allegations. Owners swore the car started accelerating by itself, even though they were pressing as hard as they could on the brake!

    60 minutes did a hatchet job on the car, and it almost ruined Audi.

    And at the time, clearer heads pointed out (in car magazines, newspapers) that it is impossible for an engine to overcome the brakes in a car. This is clearly true. But people swore they were pressing the brake.

    Here's what NHSTA found: the Audi had much smaller pedals than American cars, particularly the brake, so that when people were panicked, they were actually pressing the accelerator, not the brake. It seems impossible, but true! The car was designed for European audiences and had smaller pedals to accommodate a clutch, even when it had an automatic transmission. So when people moved from old-style American cars with a huge, wide brake pedal, they were not reacting properly in a panic situation.

    I've seen the same thing in relatives. About 2 decades ago, a female relative claimed she got into an accident because the car started accelerating, no matter how hard she pressed on a brake. She swore this to be true, even though what she was suggesting was a physical impossibility. But to this day, she believes it.

    So I would be skeptical of this claim by owners. Not impossible, but highly improbable based on what we've seen from people in this situation many times before.

    --
    You were mistaken. Which is odd, since memory shouldn't be a problem for you
  83. No glitch. Something must be breaking. by v(*_*)vvvv · · Score: 1

    Cars are tested an insane amount before they are put on our roads. The easiest part of a car to test is its software. We aren't talking about a CGI script by a teenager here. And software doesn't erode or malfunction or break. If it has bugs, it always has them, and they will be there from the beginning, meaning they will be found.

    If there is some real glitch, it would have to be mechanical or in the wiring. Like a switch not getting flipped, or some sensor going wack.

  84. This happens in older cars, too. by GWRedDragon · · Score: 1

    It's not just 'drive by wire' vehicles. At one point while driving a 1991 model car, I pressed the accelerator hard to get up a hill. When I let off the pedal, the cable/pedal must have gotten stuck because the vehicle kept accelerating (now down the hill). In retrospect, I should probably have switched it to neutral, but at the time my immediate snap response was to turn off the ignition key. Despite the loss of power steering and braking, it was quite effective.

    It seems to me that if people are hitting the vehicle in front of them because of unexpected acceleration, they either are very bad at making quick decisions or they do not maintain a safe following distance while driving (a common problem these days).

    1. Re:This happens in older cars, too. by datapharmer · · Score: 1

      No, you did the right thing. If you put the car in neutral you would be replacing more than a cable. The entire engine would have probably gone and it is easy to over-correct when things like that happen, so power-steering loss was probably more of a help than a hindrance.

      --
      Get a web developer
  85. Some jet engines had this problem in the 80's by twosat · · Score: 1

    When jet engines with Full Authority Digital Engine Controllers (FADECs) were introduced in about the late 80's there were several cases of engines suddenly surging to uncommanded high speeds. It turned out that the digital commands were sometimes getting corrupted between the cockpit computers and the FADECs. This was cured by requiring the commands to be repeated several times before they were accepted by and acted on by the FADEC in question.

    1. Re:Some jet engines had this problem in the 80's by Viol8 · · Score: 1

      Surely it would have been better to fix whatever caused the corruption in the first place than inplement that band-aid style fix? Corrupted digital commands to me says serious wiring or electronics issues.

    2. Re:Some jet engines had this problem in the 80's by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Surely it would have been better to fix whatever caused the corruption in the first place than inplement that band-aid style fix? Corrupted digital commands to me says serious wiring or electronics issues.

      FAIL! It would have been best to fix what caused the corruption in the first place AND require command confirmation, because even if you fix the problem, some other problem could cause the same thing and then you'd be right back where you started.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    3. Re:Some jet engines had this problem in the 80's by Viol8 · · Score: 1

      Command confirmation isn't a solution - how do you pick the correct command - best of 3? 4 out of 5? If theres consistent interference it not only shows a design flaw but also command confirmation will just give fake reassurance because all it will do is reduce the probability of it happening again , not rule it out entirely. The problem needs to be fixed at source with some sort of CRC check made on the command and if it fails the aircraft is grounded as soon as possible.

  86. Re:OMG - I own a Nissan Sentra and it happened to by noidentity · · Score: 1

    How about having a larger cutout near the pedal, AND having the damn pedal not go so close to the floor?

    But still, as others have suggested, how are you sure this is what happened? Before the idea of the pedal getting stuck under the mat was publicized, you might have considered other possibilities, like operator error. I've experienced something like this at least twice now, where I confused the brake and accelerator pedals, which was very freaky. I've traced the issue to some some operations involving lots of shuffling between the two, where instead of mentally thinking "brake... ok, now accelerator", I'm just thinking "need to alternate between moving and stopping... OK, alternate again". If it became unclear as to whether I was accelerating or braking, that would fail, and the usual response, "press harder", would make it worse. One or two of the times, it occurred while backing out of a parking space. The other was making a right turn into a gas station, just after going through a traffic light. After the turn, I was fucking accelerating towards a guy standing just outside the building, within 30 feet. He didn't seem jarred, but I sure was.

  87. This happened to me ... by Katchu · · Score: 1

    I had a 91 Geo Prism (a Toyota Corolla) that had this problem. It scared the heck out of me the first time--I put it in neutral then shut it off because the brakes weren't doing the job. I got to the side of the road and it took me about a minute to figure out it WAS THE FLOOR MAT. If I wasn't careful to keep the floor mat back out of the way it would do the same thing again. Not so scary then, but it did take more time than braking to correct the situation so it was dangerous. There also may be a computer problem, but not in this case.

    --
    Keep Doing Good.
  88. Re:Put the damn thing in neutral - HOW? by ei4anb · · Score: 1

    I drive a Prius. The emergency shutdown procedure is to hold the "stop" button pressed for at least three seconds. That's a long time if you are out of control doing high speed on a motorway. I do not know if the transmission switch will respond if you try to select neutral while accelerating. The worry is that the computer controls everything except the manual/hydraulic part of the brake (unless pressed hard the brake pedal only activates "engine braking" which is electrical) and if the ECU is having a brain fart you have limited options.

  89. Serves you right for buying a Jap Car by tjstork · · Score: 1, Insightful

    That's all I'm saying... Why I am supposed to care about some malady that befalls you in your foreign car, when my city is destroyed by Big 3 downsizing. If our unemployment is our fault for building shitty cars, then, certainly your accident is your fault for buying one too. Don't come crying to me about your Toyota problems...If you get killed in that thing, its not my problem. You abandoned my country decades ago.

    --
    This is my sig.
    1. Re:Serves you right for buying a Jap Car by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      You're kidding, right? This is some kind of joke, yes? The American automakers lost in the 70s and 80s because they rested on their laurels when it came to fuel consumption and failed to produce efficient cars during an energy crisis, and started building cars for planned obsolescence at the same time, with built-in failures at the end of their intended service lifetimes.

      I have a ford truck, but it has an International Navistar engine. The only reason it's even got an American body is that foreign trucks don't get big enough, there's no 3/4 ton Tundra and you can't tow a backhoe with a 1/2 ton. I've got a 1982 Mercedes that has a superior ride to any American luxury car ever made, and a 1993 Subaru with better handling than anything America has ever made in that class.

      American automakers abandoned America decades ago, when they bought up profitable trains and streetcar lines and shut them down to spur demand for their crap cans. If you can't win by competing, win with dirty tricks that harm the people!

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    2. Re:Serves you right for buying a Jap Car by Ogive17 · · Score: 1

      A good portion of Japanese cars sold in the US are built in the US. Meanwhile the Detroit automakers are building more and more of their vehicles in Mexico.

      Maybe it's the people in Detroit that led to the failures of the Big 3. If they only had close minded people such as yourself to chose from, it's no wonder they never adapted to any market changes.

      --
      "Action without philosophy is a lethal weapon; philosophy without action is worthless."
    3. Re:Serves you right for buying a Jap Car by tjstork · · Score: 1

      American automakers abandoned America decades ago

      Whatever. The fact is, if you aren't supporting your countrymen, why should they support you. If this dodge owner sees you in a wreck, I'm driving by. If you hold other people to task for their decisions, that's fine, but don't be angry if they should do the same.

      --
      This is my sig.
    4. Re:Serves you right for buying a Jap Car by tjstork · · Score: 1

      Maybe it's the people in Detroit that led to the failures of the Big 3. If they only had close minded people such as yourself to chose from, it's no wonder they never adapted to any market changes.

      Am I so close minded to see that perhaps a person's need for the absolutely most perfect car at the expense of a community as a whole might not be the best thing?

      I mean, if you aren't supporting an economy in peacetime, why would you expect someone to support the country in a war? If you aren't supporting my people, what makes you worth fighting for? I'm drawing a blank.

      --
      This is my sig.
    5. Re:Serves you right for buying a Jap Car by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      If this dodge owner sees you in a wreck, I'm driving by.

      You would have driven right by my 1992 Ford F-250 Diesel 4x4 with american aftermarket turbo and lift anyway, hypocrite. Your jingoism is naive and pathetic. You think the bastards getting rich off the auto company bailouts are keeping their money in the country? Snicker, snort.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
  90. You know less than you think you do by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    And even if the accelerator is drive-by-wire the brakes are not and will likely never be.

    An old Air Force paper http://www.ml.afrl.af.mil/publications/factsheets/Brake_by_Wie.pdf references an agreement with Delphi Automotive Systems to bring brake-by-wire to the US auto industry.

    According to a market forecast published by Tier One in 2001, "brake-by-wire installations were predicted to jump from zero in 2002 to over 19% by 2010. The most likely applications were assumed to be luxury vehicles, performance cars and hybrid vehicles (combined with regenerative braking systems)." Gosh, that sure sounds like the vehicle classes folks are complaining have the problem...

  91. unclear on the concept by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    >whereby the ECU can properly evaluate requested levels versus actual in pretty much everything.

    Hmm, requested......

    >This information was gathered while researching diagnosing my personal car, a B5 Audi S4.

    If you have to request things you don't own it.

  92. My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by MasterOfGoingFaster · · Score: 5, Informative

    The Audi 5000S was never defective...

    It might be true that some people hit the wrong pedal, but I actually owned an Audi 5000 Turbo and experienced sudden-acceleration.

    I was driving down an Interstate highway in Texas, when the car suddenly began accelerating. I was on cruse control, and my feet were not touching any pedals. Since I'm comfortable at high speeds (past racer) and the weather and road were good, I was pretty calm. I put my foot behind the accelerator pedal and pulled back. It moved freely. I realized the cruse control had opened the throttle wide open.

    I tapped the brakes to shut down the system. The pedal wouldn't move. I pressed hard with both feet, and could feel the arm flex, but it would not move. Realizing I had no brakes, and a wide open throttle, I hit the dash switch to shut off the cruse control. As the car slowed, the brakes slowly became operational. I noticed the turbo boost gage was now reading negative pressure. When the turbo boost was on, you could not apply the brakes.

    It turns out that there was a check valve between the intake manifold and the brake booster. If it leaks/leaks, then high pressure air prevents the application of the brakes.

    My belief is there was a bug in the cruse control, or it was susceptible to outside interference (trucker with hopped-up CB radio?) Combine that with the check valve issue and you have a car that could very well exhibit the behavior that 60 Minutes indicated. Those people said the car suddenly accelerated and the brakes didn't work. And that matches my experience exactly.

    I contacted Audi USA, but they blew me off. The dealer didn't care either.

    I'll let others argue whether this is a 'defect', but I've been cured of ever buying another Audi.

    --
    Place nail here >+
    1. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by fratermus · · Score: 1

      This is the first credible account of Audio unintended I have read. Thanks for writing it up; interesting stuff.

      --
      L.V.X., brother mouse
    2. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by markitect · · Score: 1

      The problem is none of these Toyotas have turbos. So there is no check valve that can malfunction to make it impossible to press the brakes. In fact the wider the throttle is opened the easier it will be.

    3. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by jcaplan · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the post. Generally eyewitness accounts are pretty worthless in these kinds of situations because:

      1.) The driver is in a state of panic when the car suddenly accelerates. Panic tends to create a state where the operator continues with a chosen course of action, despite evidence that it might be wrong, such as the car speeding up.(This was apparently one of many contributing factors to the airline crash in Buffalo, NY last year.) Panic also tends to make memories very clear, so the operator clearly remembers pressing on the [brake | gas] pedal very hard.

      2.) The possibility that the driver's error has caused an accident gives a strong psychological incentive for the mind to settle on other possibilities. I do not mean that the driver intentionally chose to believe something not true, but that belief about what happened in an event was constructed out prior beliefs, such as: "I am a good driver" and "I was trying to stop". When there is a fatality involved this greatly increases the cost of believing that one was at fault.

      This story is more credible since:

      1.) The driver did not panic due to comfort at high speeds and as evidenced by his rational, methodical approach to working the problem.

      2.) No accident was involved.

      One thing which strikes me as odd about many of the accounts is that the drivers never simply turn off the car using the key, especially in the case where the passenger had time to call 911. Are people unaware that they can do this or is it related to some new electronic interface not present in my older vehicle?

    4. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by RingDev · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Virtually all (all that I have ever worked on) gasoline cars use the vacuum created in the intake plenum to operate the brake booster. Some cars use an electric vacuum motor to maintain the power breaks in designs where there is not a consistent vacuum or not accessibility to the plenum.

      If you have a leak in your plenum or vacuum booster line, your engine should run rough and your breaks will be much harder too push.

      The system will never prevent the application of the breaks, but it does mean instead of having power breaks, you are relying on the mechanical advantage of the pedal and your own leg power to stop the car. If you go back to the 60's you'll see "Power Brakes!" as an option you could add to your car.

      Another option to shut down the cruise would be to put the car in neutral. If the engine continues to rev uncontrolled, it likely isn't the cruise control that is at fault.

      I have experienced 3 sudden acceleration incidents. 1 was in my Fiero when the 15 year old Cruise Control vacuum got stuck (turning off the CC restore normal driving) and the 2 others, in a '87 Dodge Raider and an '06 Golf TDI we both due to floor mats not being properly installed. The velcro backing on the Dodge's mats had worn out, and the dealer threw in rubber mats on top of the stock mats in the Golf. In both cases the mats had crept forward enough to interfere with the gas pedal.

      I'm not saying that there isn't a problem with any specific design, but in my personal experiences the faults have tended to center around pedal interference and/or aging mechanical devices.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    5. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by Whorhay · · Score: 1

      I've ridden in and driven several cars that had a relatively dumb cruise control. Shifting the car into nuetral did not kill the cruise and it would rapidly rev up the engine as the car slowed down. Not that blowing an engine isn't worth avoiding a runaway incident where you risk many lives.

    6. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by steelshadow · · Score: 1
      From an LA Times article:

      One obvious line of defense is to simply shut off the engine, a step that may not be intuitive on the ES 350. The car has a push-button start system, activated by the combination of a wireless electronic fob carried by the driver and a button on the dashboard.

      But once the vehicle is moving, the engine will not shut off unless the button is held down for a full three seconds -- a period of time in which Saylor's car would have traveled 528 feet. A driver may push the button repeatedly, not knowing it requires a three-second hold.

      "When you are dealing with an emergency, you can't wait three seconds for the car to respond at 120 miles an hour," said Clarence Ditlow, executive director of the nonprofit Center for Auto Safety.

      The ES 350 Saylor was driving that day was a loaner provided to him by Bob Baker Lexus when he took his family's Lexus in for servicing. It's unclear whether Saylor's own car had the same feature or whether he was aware of the shutdown procedure. Bob Baker Lexus did not return calls.

    7. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by rawg · · Score: 1

      I have a 93 Dodge 2500 pickup truck. I came to a stop light and the truck was trying to push through the brakes. Ended up being the cruse control. It was on, but not enabled. It somehow enabled and was trying to take off. Even though I was holding the brakes, it was still trying to go. I finally realized and turned off the control.

      So it's not only foreign/new cars that have this issue.

      --
      The above is not worth reading.
    8. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by synth7 · · Score: 1

      I had a similar experience just last year in a Honda Accord, however in my case the cruise control mechanism cam broke and jammed the throttle in a wide-open position. I was doing 90 on the interstate in fairly short order. You could slow the car with the brakes, but you were fighting the engine... and as soon as you let off it would speed back up. Toggling cruise control or turning the ignition on and off had no effect, because the throttle mechanism was physically jammed by the broken cam.

      I was able to safely stop by simply popping the transmission into neutral at speed (where the unloaded engine would then race at high RPMs) and brake to a stop on an off-ramp where I pulled off the road and shut off the engine. Had the brakes not worked correctly I would have used the emergency brake to stop. Had none of the brakes worked I would have shut off the engine and rolled to a stop. If it got too dicey I would have jammed the transmission into park, which would have been abrupt and damaging to the car, but is better than an uncontrolled wreck.

      It's really too bad about the people who have died, but I just don't understand why the drivers didn't take one of these actions. The one policeman (and his family) who died should have known this... I think perhaps, he didn't want to damage his Lexus? They were on the phone with 911 for a minute and a half before the crash, which is plenty of time to pick a spot to shut off the engine and coast.

    9. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I once had my cruise control get itself stuck open so that even when I did put the car in manual it continued to rev. After stopping it and pulling over I popped the hood and was able to locate the valve that wasn't closing and forced it closed myself. Taking it in to the shop they said it was just slightly misaligned. It was an after-market cruise control, so it wasn't fully integrated with the engine if that impacts the possibilities for failure (Though it was the dealer approved installation)

      So while the cruise control may not usually be at fault if it revs while in neutral, its mechanism can have problems same as anything else.

    10. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You clearly didn't read the above post. In a turbocharged car or any forced induction car when the engine is under boost will have positive pressure in the manifold. A bad check valve will allow the pressure in the brake ( yes B R A K E ) booster to follow manifold pressure. The positive pressure will prevent the car from producing any brake boost though unless the booster is poorly designed it should not be pushing back on the pedal.

      You end up with manual brakes with a poor pedal ratio making effective braking difficult.

      And yes, to people who have said otherwise, there are many cars where the crappy brakes that the factory puts on don't have the heat capacity to hold back the full power of the engine for more than a few seconds without severe fading.

      Still, I had an Audi 5000 and I always wished it would accelerate anywhere as fast as the 'victims' claimed. It was a pig.

    11. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by Hatta · · Score: 1

      You have an awfully appropriate name for this topic.

      --
      Give me Classic Slashdot or give me death!
    12. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by Gnavpot · · Score: 1

      It turns out that there was a check valve between the intake manifold and the brake booster. If it leaks/leaks, then high pressure air prevents the application of the brakes.

      Were the American Audi 5000s really that different from the European Audi 100/200s? I always thought it was the same car with another model number

      I have owned two European models which had hydraulic brake boosters, connected to the power steering pump. Given that my cars were non-turbo models, it seems really strange that they would put an old-fashioned vacuum booster on a turbo model which - as you have already described - will have overpressure instead of vacuum in some situations.

    13. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by MasterOfGoingFaster · · Score: 1

      The system will never prevent the application of the breaks

      I guess you missed the bit about it being a TURBO. There is a check valve in the vacuum assist line. It is open when you have a low pressure (no turbo boost) to create a "vacuum assist" for the brakes.
      It closes when the turbo boost goes above atmospheric pressure. But if it fails, you have pressure on the vac assist, and rather than assist you, it prevent the application of brakes. In my opinion, this is a bad design, and if you combine it with a cruse control that suddenly accelerates the vehicle, you have a potential problem.

      In the case of my own Audi 5000 turbo, it did indeed prevent me from applying the brakes. Yes, I did look down and was pressing the brake pedal with both feet. I could not budge it in the slightest.

      --
      Place nail here >+
    14. Re:My sudden-acceleration Audi experience by cvtan · · Score: 1

      Many cars without turbos have such a one-way valve. At light throttle openings the manifold vacuum is passed to the brake booster vacuum reservoir. If you floor the throttle, the manifold vacuum vanishes, but the vacuum in the booster remains (because of the check valve) and the brakes still retain their power assist. If you insist on pressing the brakes many times with the throttle open, eventually the power assist will go away and the brakes will become VERY difficult to use. It is not true that a wider throttle opening will make the brakes easier to apply. Exceptions to this are BMWs that have hydraulic pumps that are also used to run the power brakes (1984 733i which I once owned was like this). In that case, the power assist was present as long as the engine was running (and even when it wasn't due to a backup pressure reservoir).

      --
      Sorry, but gray text on gray background is making my eyes bleed.
  93. User Error by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The classic line: "The harder I pushed on the brake, the faster it went".
    Um, OK then. Try pushing on the brake pedal next time.

  94. I don't get it. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I don't get it. Can somebody explain it to me using a computer analogy?

  95. I had this happen on my Infinity I30 by cs668 · · Score: 1

    The dealer wouldn't believe me as it was intermittent. When it did happen I had to slam on the break and turn off the ignition, and then everything would be fine.

    I finally talked the dealers mechanic into taking my car and using it. After 3 days I get a call where he finally experienced the problem.

    Turns out it was something strange with the cruise control, even with it turned off at the steering wheel it would still engage and not stop accelerating.

    Let's just say that when your driving on a downtown street and your car decides to floor it, you end up in situations where you really wish you were wearing a diaper.

    I feel sorry for the Toyota owners going through this. Specially because I know how skeptical the dealers can be.

  96. Drive by wire has been used in diesels for years by jnelson4765 · · Score: 1

    The computer-controlled diesel engines in all the big trucks and buses use drive-by-wire. The throttle position sensor is built into the accelerator pedal.

    Granted, there's no throttle plate to control (the accelerator pedal in diesels control fuel flow only) but Detroit Diesel, Cummins, and Caterpillar have been making these drive-by-wire systems since the late 1980s in vehicles that are a heck of a lot more dangerous when running out of control than the biggest car or pickup.

    --
    Why can't I mod "-1 Idiot"?
  97. I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by rcb1974 · · Score: 4, Informative

    As an owner of a 2009 Toyota Camry LE, I can confirm that my car will occasionally (maybe once every 30 minutes on average) start accelerating (not fast, maybe 1 mile per hour per second) for about 2.5 seconds, even when my foot is steady on the gas pedal, and even when I'm driving on a completely flat surface, with the cruise control off, and with no external forces like wind outside or gravity pulling the car up/down a hill. This absolutely has nothing to do with the floor mat because it happens when my feet are not shifting at all. I'm a test engineer and have a good sense of cause and effect, how changes on the inputs to a system affect the outputs. The next thing I'm going to do is remove the floor mat and see if it still happens.

    Anytime your car starts to accelerate when you don't want it to, you can always just put the car in neutral. You have to train your brain to do this automatically and quickly, because if you start accelerating rapidly, you will also need to focus on the road and not cause an accident. My wife almost got in an accident several years ago because our old 1993 Ford Explorer had a sticky gas pedal. We've since gotten rid of that clunker (thank goodness), but when it was happened I told her it was important for her to train her "muscle memory" to put the car in neutral. Many people who don't know how to drive a manual transmission also don't ever use the neutral on their automatic transmission vehicles.

    1. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      Automatics are specifically designed so you can just hit the shifter and it will pop into neutral and stop before it hits park or reverse.

      When I was learning to drive we were taught this, and made to practice it.

    2. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by LWATCDR · · Score: 1

      "My wife almost got in an accident several years ago because our old 1993 Ford Explorer had a sticky gas pedal. We've since gotten rid of that clunker (thank goodness), but when it was happened I told her it was important for her to train her "muscle memory" to put the car in neutral."
      Why not just fix the gas pedal?
      I mean if your car has a sticky gas pedal get it fixed don't live with it or train you "muscle memory" to deal with it.

      --
      See my blog http://ilovecookes.blogspot.com/ for light hearted technical information.
    3. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      Automatics are specifically designed so you can just hit the shifter and it will pop into neutral and stop before it hits park or reverse.

      Good on-the-floor ones are. Toyotas are in this category. GM's with shift on-the-wheel will let you do stupid things. My plow truck goes 'crunch' a bit too frequently.

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    4. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not sure if this could be the case, but my 2001 Oldsmobile showed the same symptoms. Sometimes it would gradually accelerate for no reason. If I put it in neutral I could see that it was idling way too fast (RPM would jump). Shutting off the car and turning it back on would usually fix it. I took it to two different places and they couldn't find the problem. Finally the third place I took it to figured out it was a problem with the 'Idle Air Control Valve'. I'm no car expert and not sure if Toyotas have a similar part, but you might want to get it checked out.

      After I had taken it to two places with no luck, I probably drove it for a year before having someone else check it out. Your passengers give you a strange look when you're going 60-65 mph and you push it into neutral, shut off the car, start the car back up, and then pull it back into drive to correct the problem.

    5. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      Hm... last time I drove a shift-on-the-wheel (a LONG time ago) I was worried about that same problem. Since I was trained to shove the shifter into neutral whenever the car skids on ice, I was worried I'd be whacking the thing into reverse.

      That car had a similar mechanism where you couldn't shift past neutral without pulling the lever towards you. Not quite as good as the on-the-floor ones, but not bad. I can't remember what make it was though.

      Good to hear they've been getting lax on including that feature.

    6. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      That car had a similar mechanism where you couldn't shift past neutral without pulling the lever towards you.

      On mine ('96), anyway, you have to pull the lever to get it to shift in any direction, and then you get P to L, with poor indexing and short spacing between them.

      My Subaru has it on the floor and I'm a pretty involved shifter with it - lots of hills here and I like to save the brakes and up the mileage (a quarter of my ride to work is low-speed down-hill). With the truck I just put it in D and leave it alone unless I'm pulling a big load, then I'm just really really careful not to grind it.

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    7. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by rcb1974 · · Score: 1

      We got rid of that car for other reasons, not just because of the sticky gas pedal. It would have cost about $2k to get it to pass NY state auto inspection, and it got really bad gas mileage (14 miles/gallon).

      If it were just the gas pedal that was the problem, then yes, I would have fixed it.

    8. Re:I can confirm this problem with my 2009 Camry by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Personally, I think automatics should have a foot peddle that engages a "neutral shift" where manual cars have a clutch.

      I've driven automatics my entire life, and I have to say that I still have the instinct to step on something with my foot when the car accellerates; maneuvering one of the myriad of automatic shifters into neutral is NEVER an instinctive or quick operation, except on cars I've driven for years already. Even then, fiddling with something with your hands instead of keeping them on the wheel feels wrong.

      Of course, the shifter would be by-wire too, so it's possible for a multiiple failure to put you in an even worse situation....

  98. Or turn it off by gr8_phk · · Score: 1

    Time to call 911, but no time to turn the ignition off - one notch, don't lock the wheel. This is nicer than putting it in neutral. I think the media need to point out these options when they report on this because a lot of people probably don't know why "N" is there or that it's OK to turn off the ignition while moving (but not normally recommended).

  99. There's a button for that by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    How about the overall problem being a combination of bad design *and* a lack of driver abilities? Floor mats, sure, no doubt that people do it wrong just like child seats. You take the summer mats out when putting in winter mats, jeez. Car trying to be too smart so that the driver can be a little less smart, absolutely a problem in general. Manual tranny for me, screw those slush boxes. Drive by wire, no problem as long as the driver can react to problems just like us old fogies do.
    Can't put the tranny in neutral because you've never done it due to being a slush box, that's a user issue most of the time. Can't turn off the engine due to a fancy key fob, that's a dumb design, really dumb. What's the point in that other than a kewl factor? If it doesn't have at least a push button or an old fashion key then just say no to that nonsense.
    'assisted parking'? wtf, that's the biggest waste of technology I've heard in a car in a long time. I have to keep a mental list of cars with the most gadgets and technology so I can stay clear of them. Not because I fear that the technology will fail but because I fear that the driver has no clue how to drive much less react in a sensible manner.

    The big 'feature' on my new car is traction control. I've never had that so when I tested the car by putting into a slide on purpose to see how it reacts I was stunned that it corrected my slide even though I know how to do it better, same for ABS. I'll get used to it but I typically turn that function off, thankfully there's a button for that.

    1. Re:There's a button for that by tiny1877 · · Score: 1

      My very first thought when I heard the story about the police officer in California and his family dying because of the accelerator issue was "Why didn't they put it in Neutral and shut off the key?" Even with the fancy fob, if you hold the "Start" button in, it will shut off. Assisted parking is obviously designed by someone whose kid or wife or husband was backing into cars a lot and didn't want them to have to worry about it anymore. ;-) I've had more issues with ABS and Traction Control in my 12 years of driving than I care to remember. Worst of which was being stuck in my steep driveway in about 4" of snow for 10min. Traction control kept killing the throttle and I didn't realize it. When I woke up from the adrenaline-fused anger, I thought "Maybe I should switch this off?" and up and out the driveway I went in one shot. All because my 4WD was in the shop and I had to borrow my dad's Hyundai sedan...

  100. Patented! by liquiddark · · Score: 1

    My patent pending banging-two-sticks-together throttle system brings the whole thing full circle.

  101. Tall tale... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    evidence being the words “Prius is doing 97"

    1. Re:Tall tale... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      evidence being the words "Prius is doing 97"

      Most Prius owners don't do 97 because they bought the car with the intention of saving gas.

      When they first came out, I was offered one as a weekend rental (ironically enough, because the customer in line ahead of me was a little old lady who couldn't fathom the pushbutton ignition). First thing I did with it, after about half an hour to familiarize myself with its handling, was to see what it could do. I was at 90 and still accelerating (albeit slowly) when I saw Officer Friendly in the distance, and backed off in time to avoid a ticket.

      Just because its target demographic is interested in driving styles that optimize mileage/emissions, doesn't mean it can't be driven hard. No, it's not a sports car and never will be, but it's a highly-aerodynamic car with a small gasoline engine, backed by a big-ass electric motor full of torque. Given the further emissions optimizations embedded into the ECU, it was a lot of fun to drive. If I'd been in the market for a car at that time, I'd have bought one after that weekend.

  102. Cool tech names didn't work as intended by Ilgaz · · Score: 1

    ABS, ASR (and dozens more) like stuff gave the people wrong impression that their cars and even trucks/bus stuff they drive will save them from every kind of stupid mistake (like driving 140 km/h in city) they do.

    Every time I see a bus driving at insane speeds and he won't be able to stop because of basic Newton principles, he has some "ABS" or "ASR" sticker at back. They should come with warnings like: "ABS doesn't mean you can drive 170km/h and your car will magically stop when you push the brake."

    It is sad that ABS (using as its widely known) like technologies should have make things way more safer but because of PEBAAC factor you mention, they could be causing more harm than good.

  103. And when the cable goes? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    And when the cable goes, it isn't working at all.

    But that's OK, it's cheap to replace.

    Just have to hope you can coast to the nearest car repair shop...

    1. Re:And when the cable goes? by JWSmythe · · Score: 1

          When's the last time you had a throttle cable break?

          I've only seen it happen twice. Those were motorcycles. One was a "pocketbike", being driven by a big teenager who overstressed the inferior piece. (he twisted it til it broke).

      --
      Serious? Seriousness is well above my pay grade.
  104. Throttle Control Threading problem by JBHarris · · Score: 1

    There is obviously a race condition in the throttle system.


    da-dum-dum-tsh.
    Try the veal.

  105. Foam O-rings and Pintos by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    These the same guys who initially said there was no problem with the Shuttle booster tank foam or the O-rings? That Pinto gas tanks were perfectly safe?

    "Refusing to accept the explanation of Toyota and the federal government". I would hope people had enough sense not to trust them.

    The Vendors and the government has a notoriously bad habit of publishing outright lies. If Toyota wants to clear this up, the need an impartial COMPETENT independent investigation. The government may be considered independent and sometimes semi-impartial, but is often greatly lacking in the competence department.

  106. They could combine both by Ilgaz · · Score: 1

    Doesn't modern planes have both "digital" and old fashion wire controls which also helps computer to validate sanity? Perhaps they should have both and in case something makes no sense at all, it should do some logical choice based on the data?

  107. Throttle Body Icing by wiredog · · Score: 1

    There was this "issue" with an old VW Bug I had once. The carb would ice up on the outside, causing the throttle to stick in the open position. Lots of fun/ Had to throw it in neutral and kill the engine before it over-revved.

  108. Re:OMG - I own a Nissan Sentra and it happened to by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

    I had this happen to my in my 1989 Nissan 240SX, but I felt the floor mat slip. Due the position in which you sit in the car, you're fairly well held in the seat, so I was able to drag the mat back with my feet. I will note that the rev limiter in Nissans seems to be implemented with a particularly brutal fuel CUT, not a reduction, and it's a MUCH harder hit than in most other vehicles. 1989 240SX, 2.4 liter 8.6:1 compression jerks like you've got a frozen diff when you hit the fuel cut; 1993 Subaru Impreza, 1.8 liter 9.5:1 compression is almost graceful. Yet they're made with many of the same parts :)

    --
    "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
  109. Why are you cruising above legal? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Really. Unless you have a hundred miles of estate, why do you need cruise at 83mph?

    Is there also not a "cruise at my speed"? So just get the speed you want (if it's your own land, why do you want EXACTLY 83 mph? surely 85 is just as OK too) and then go "cruise".

  110. Look up "accurate" by nightsweat · · Score: 1

    I don't think that word means what you think it means. Hint - accurate != exact.

    --

    the major advances in civilization are processes which all but wreck the societies in which they occur - A.N. White
    1. Re:Look up "accurate" by silentcoder · · Score: 0, Troll

      I'd rather look up yo momma's skirt... it's cheap and much more educational.

      pwned.

      --
      Unicode killed the ASCII-art *
  111. strong words by fireylord · · Score: 1

    I do hope that the British Libel lawyer ambulance chasers dont come after you! (im british btw)

  112. This is a new issue? by qmetaball · · Score: 1

    hell, i've got an 86 Bronco II that occasionally tries to surge and ram the guy in front of me at a light, this isn't really a new problem.

    --
    Everything is porn to somebody.
  113. 1998 Volkswagen Jetta TDI by misfit815 · · Score: 1

    I had a similar incident happen on my '98 Jetta. I was on an interstate with the cruise control on, and it decided to start accelerating for no reason. The best part is that this was one isolated incident for a car in which I logged over 200k miles. By the way, that was an awesome car. I could drive like an old lady and get 45mpg, or (typically) like Mario Andretti and *still* get 43mpg.

    In response to the claims of tinkering with the speedometer, both my '98 Jetta and my '08 Mazda3 have always reported the exact same speed on the speedometer as those roadside radar detectors.

    --
    Jesus told him, "I am the way, the truth, and the life. No one can come to the Father except through me. - John 14:6 NLT
  114. Why not ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Why not just slam it into neutral?

    ~SAB

  115. This is serious by Pictish+Prince · · Score: 1

    It takes a lot of acceleration for my arms to go up.

    --
    Only his tendency toward a dazed stupor prevented him from screaming aloud.
  116. Drive By Wire by sjbe · · Score: 3, Interesting

    The Audi 5000S was never defective...

    That's right it wasn't. It was people blaming the equipment for their own failures.

    As for the Toyota Camry, is it defective? The probability of it being defective is higher than the probability of the Audi 5000S being defective.

    Umm, please show your calculations. You already admitted that the Audi 5000S was not defective so this should be interesting.

    Consumer-safety standards in Japan are lower than the standards in the European Union.

    Even if true (and you've provided no evidence that it is true) that has precisely nothing to do with a car sold in the United States where US consumer safety standards apply. Never mind that the Toytoa Camry is produced right here in the US (also in Japan, Russia, China and Australia).

    Even from an engineering perspective, the Toyota Camry is a dangerous design. For example, the transmission is mechanically separated from the automatic-transmission lever (that the driver uses to change gears). The lever is connected to an electronic box that sends some electrical signals -- along copper wires -- to the tranmission to control it: the process is drive-by-wire.

    Drive by wire does not make it a more dangerous design. It has DIFFERENT failure modes but different is not the same as dangerous. Fly by wire has become state of the art in airplanes where they have much stricter reliability standards so the technology clearly CAN be safe. While it is certainly possible Toyota has a defective system, I want to see some actual evidence of a fault beyond a few anecdotes of customers.

    Do not trust the fault tolerance in mass-merchandise products

    You do that every day whether you are aware of it or not. There is a reason we have product safety and liability laws. You trust your life to mass merchandise products every single day of your life.

    If you own a Toyota Camry, I suggest that you sell it as quickly as possible and get an old-fashioned-technology vehicle without the drive-by-wire.

    Good luck with that. Lots of cars are already drive by wire and within a few years nearly all will be. Enjoy driving unsafe older cars.

    Fault tolerance is expensive and is meant to be expensive.

    Actually it doesn't have to be expensive at all. A pipe wrench is a great example highly fault tolerant engineering but it isn't expensive. Fault tolerance CAN be expensive but it doesn't have to be. With an appropriate design it can even be cheaper.

    The fact that only a handful of people have been affected by the freak accelerations matches a distribution of a low-probability electrical glitch.

    It also matches the distribution of a handful of people standing on their accelerator pedal and being too embarrassed to admit they weren't using the brake. Remember the Audi? It's entirely reasonable to believe this is people trying to get money via our legal system instead of an actual engineering fault.

    The Ford Fusion exceeds the quality of the Toyota Camry, does not use drive-by-wire, and costs much less than the Toyota deathtrap. Think about it.

    The Ford Fusion DOES use drive by wire. Every hybrid car is drive by wire and soon enough so will (nearly) every non hybrid. Drive by Wire has FAR too many advantages in both cost and features to not be used.

    Regarding quality, JD Power thinks you are full of crap and I tend to believe them more than you. 2010 Ford Fusion vs 2010 Toyota Camry

    1. Re:Drive By Wire by DavidTC · · Score: 1

      I'm frankly astonished that someone thinks a car with an electric engine is operated in some other way than electric wiring. WTF.

      What other way could it possibly operate? Please, someone explain to me a non-'fly-by-wire' way to control the speed of an electric motor.

      Oh, wait, I got one: The electric engine is on full the entire time, and has some sort of mechanical braking slowing it down that you move away with the gas pedal?

      So you'd have to replace the mechanical brake every five minutes of operation. Ford wins an award for 'Worse engine design in the entire history of mankind', narrow beating out the styrofoam-and-paper-engine-block internal combustion engine.

      Of course the irony there is such an absurd design would result in even more random acceleration.

      I guess he could be assuming that the gas engine was still directly controlled by the gas pedal, which demonstrates an amazingly poor grasp of how hybrid cars work, but at least is within the realm of physics.

      --
      If corporations are people, aren't stockholders guilty of slavery?
    2. Re:Drive By Wire by StayFrosty · · Score: 1

      Enjoy driving unsafe older cars.

      It really bothers me when people say things like this. What do you consider "older?" 5 years old? 10 years old? Is a 10 year old car with 50,000 miles on it more unsafe than a 2 year old car with 150,000? What about a 15 year old car that's been properly maintained and serviced? Is that more unsafe than a brand new car? What is so "unsafe" about older cars anyway? Mechanical parts wear out but that has more to do with mileage than age. Cars from the mid 1990's an up all have airbags as standard equipment.

      --
      "Frequently wrong, never in doubt."
    3. Re:Drive By Wire by sjbe · · Score: 1

      What do you consider "older?" 5 years old? 10 years old?

      I mean older when I say older. Cars in general get better, safer and more reliable each year. The progression in just one year is small but it is steady and measurable. The difference between a car from 2009 and one from 1999 is more noticeable, and even more so the farther back you go.

      Is a 10 year old car with 50,000 miles on it more unsafe than a 2 year old car with 150,000?

      Depends on the car and the safety features without a specific car to point to odds are the newer car is safer. In general newer cars have newer and better safety features. Not to mention more years of engineering and design baked into them. Overall they also are measurably more reliable than a car from even 10 years ago. There are exceptions to be sure but I'm talking generalities here.

      What about a 15 year old car that's been properly maintained and serviced? Is that more unsafe than a brand new car?

      Quite possibly yes. 15 year old cars typically don't have side airbags, traction control, might not have ABS, and have materials and engineering that is 15 years older. State of the art has progressed in the last 15 years. Without getting into specific models, cars in general are safer, more reliable, and have better technology than older cars.

      What is so "unsafe" about older cars anyway?

      Depends on how far back you want to go. My dad had a 1971 Opel GT that had only a waist belt for a seatbelt. The 1993 Ford Taurus I drove for a while didn't have side airbags or traction control. My 2009 Honda has 4WD, side airbags, traction control, GPS, fog lights, a backup camera and lots of other features besides that you won't find in most vehicles more than a few years old.

    4. Re:Drive By Wire by onemorechip · · Score: 1

      I agree on the drive-by-wire not being inherently more dangerous. Just a different set of failure modes which may or may not lead to greater risk.

      I had sudden acceleration twice in my Prius. It was due to the floor mat -- or to be exact, to the plastic floor mat cover, which did not have holes where the anchor hooks are that hold the floor mats in place. After the second time, I drilled a pair of holes in that sucker and these now sit over the same two hooks that hold the floor mat in place. It hasn't happened again in the (I'm guessing) three years since I did that.

      But my point about the drive-by-wire is this: Not only did it not play a role in causing the sudden acceleration, in my case anyway, but as soon as I put my foot on the brake pedal, the engine stopped revving. If there had been a mechnical linkage to the throttle, then getting out of trouble would have been more difficult.

      --
      But, I wanted socialized health insurance!
  117. Re:PEBAAC ... or RF interference? by Sipper · · Score: 1

    The traditional problem with drive-by-wire or fly-by-wire systems is that they are susceptible to high power radio frequency interference. The long wire for the controls can act like an antenna, and a high enough power RF signal can become stronger than the control signal so that the computer acts on it instead. There have been a few instances of fly-by-wire military aircraft crashing into the deck of a carrier due to the high power RF from the carrier's onboard radar. Likewise there have been a few drive-by-wire mishaps on the road due to high power RF from CB radios boosted with linear amplifiers well beyond the legal limits. There have been instances of drive-by-wire cement trucks dumping their load onto highway due to these issues.

    Problems with drive-by-wire and fly-by-wire occasionally repeat because these high power RF corner cases are unexpected and *theoretically* shouldn't happen, but do.

    So it's not at all a surprise that no FAULT with the electronic hardware has been found, because the problem likely ISN'T a fault with the electronic hardware.

  118. Safety off switch. by McFly777 · · Score: 1

    Apparently the typical push-button start system can be manually turned off, but you have to hold the button for several seconds.

    This sounds like a poor design as regards safety. In industrial equipment it is standard practice (required by code I think) that the off switch be more prominant and completely override the on button. Often the "off" is a button that must be pulled out (it remains in that position) for the system to operate, whereas the "on" is a momentary button.

    The idea is that, in an emergency situation, if one flails at the control panel, you are most likely to accomplish turning the thing off; which is probably what you wanted to do (in an emergency).

    --

    McFly777
    - - -
    "What do people mean when they say the computer went down on them?" -Marilyn Pittman
  119. All automatics I have seen "land" on N if you push by Fastfwd · · Score: 1

    You need to go slightly to the left or right or press something to get into reverse but pushing it straight all the way should land you on "N". Maybe some cars don't I have not driven all of them.

  120. Can we have a little sanity please? by ctromley · · Score: 1

    There's a very basic problem here that no one seems to be getting. Drivers claim that their cars accelerate even though they push hard on the brake pedal. That's not possible. The brakes are more powerful than the engine. Always. Because it's so much easier and cheaper (both initially and liability-wise) to make powerful brakes than a powerful engine. The brakes win. Every time. No exceptions. You can prove this to yourself by going to a deserted road and flooring the gas pedal. Hold it down, then use your left foot to step on the brake. You can easily bring the car to a dead stop, even with your gas pedal mashed to the floor. Even if you're driving the most over-powered performance car on the road. (If it's a manual transmission, let up around 2000 rpm or you'll damage the engine.) There is no connection, mechanical, electronic or via software, between the engine management system and the braking system. A failure relating to the gas pedal cannot in any way affect the brakes. Even if all the electronics go completely nuts, the brakes still default to a simple, independent hydraulic system. This whole story is hogwash. It's the Audi 5000 all over again. Everyone went crazy over how the demonic "unintended acceleration" was going to kill us all. The final conclusion? People were stepping on the wrong pedal. This is not a technological problem. It's a human factors problem. Still a problem that needs to be addressed, but can we please shut up the science-challenged Chicken Littles so we can address it?

    1. Re:Can we have a little sanity please? by Shadyman · · Score: 1

      "The brakes are more powerful than the engine. Always."

      If that were so, then how come the crash that prompted the Toyota Floor Mat recall had "[r]otors [that] were discolored and heated, had very rough surfaces, had substantial deposits of brake pad material, and showed signs of bright orange oxidation on the cooling fins consistent with endured braking." [Autoblog: NHTSA releases new info about... (26 Oct 2009)?

  121. Safety Kill Switch by McFly777 · · Score: 1

    I am sure you can't turn the car off with the keyless power button, the only option on this model.

    You can force a Prius to turn off in an emergency by holding down the power button for several seconds.

    This is still a safety flaw. The off switch should be more prominant and easier to hit than the on switch. Having to do an emergency action that requires one to wait several seconds is just wrong.

    --

    McFly777
    - - -
    "What do people mean when they say the computer went down on them?" -Marilyn Pittman
    1. Re:Safety Kill Switch by Tobor+the+Eighth+Man · · Score: 1

      How is an emergency shut-off button that's easier to use than it is to start the car safe? Given that shutting off the power deactivates the power steering and makes the car harder to control, it could lead to an accident if someone hit it accidentally while (for instance) coming up to a turn and didn't compensate for the harder-to-control unpowered steering, causing them to veer into oncoming traffic or a barrier.

      Also, it seems much more likely that someone would accidentally turn their car off than it is they would need to instantly turn it off with the tertiary failsafe.

      There are at least three other methods of stopping the car in the case of uncontrollable acceleration. And the other emergency actions ARE all instant.

      1. Brakes work as normal. (instant)
      2. Brakes fail, shift into neutral. (instant)
      3. Parking brake (foot pedal on the Prius [at least the old ones, don't know about the new ones], doesn't even require moving your hands). (Slow, since parking brakes really aren't meant to stop a car these days, but instant in activation)
      4. Turn car off with emergency button. (Takes a couple seconds, then you still have to coast assuming your brakes have failed)

      I see where you're coming from, but I think an instant-turn-off safety feature is going to be more prone to causing accidents than it is to avoiding them.

    2. Re:Safety Kill Switch by Tobor+the+Eighth+Man · · Score: 1

      On second thought ... if hitting the power button shifted the car into neutral, that would be an ideal situation.

      So I guess I agree. It should immediately do SOMETHING if you press it.

  122. Re:OMG - I own a Nissan Sentra and it happened to by khallow · · Score: 1

    But still, as others have suggested, how are you sure this is what happened? Before the idea of the pedal getting stuck under the mat was publicized, you might have considered other possibilities, like operator error.

    From the original post:

    AFTER it stopped I could diagnose the problem being that the driver's side floor mat came off the hook that is supposed to hold it in place and inched up over the gas-pedal... thus couldn't un-press it until the carpet was pulled back.

    In other words, he diagnosed the problem right after it stopped, not much later when a convenient excuse showed up in the news.

  123. Not again!!! by DaveV1.0 · · Score: 1

    The only thing about this that is "news" is that stupid people are once again reject evidence and reality. It is always the same thing:

    I have fifty anecdotes and these two things happen in concert, so one must be causing the other. It doesn't matter what science or statistics say because I believe it so it must be true.

    --
    There is no "-1 offended" or "-1 you don't agree with me" mod options for a reason.
  124. ETC/DBW has many failsafes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I've spent a fair amount of time disassembling several Denso electronic throttle ECUs used in Subarus and some Mitsubishis. They use several throttle position sensors to make sure the throttle angle is what is called for. When any of the sensors detect failure (i.e. they do not match one another, or they do not match requested angle), the car failsafes to about 6% throttle, just a bit above idle, until the code is cleared (ECU reset, or a OBD2 tool is used to reset). These are monitored in real time. There is also an extra diagnosis step right when the car is started. These are embedded systems running real time code, the ones I've spent time on specifically are SH-2 RISC, running Hitachi's "vehicle operating system", then the vendor's own code (mishmash, unsure, I think mostly Denso's, but there is code based on each manufacturer's patents).

    A software bug is always possible, but I have a hard time believing something like that would be the root cause due to the limited scope, validation, and closed nature of the code. Electrical gremlins even less likely, because of the multiple circuits that monitor the throttle angle.

    I suppose the actual accelerator pedal sensor could fail, I think there is only one.

  125. The story here is not knowing if it is a joke by Fastfwd · · Score: 1

    We all know there are people out there who actually really think that way. We don't expect them to hang around on slashdot but maybe there are a few.

    I have not owned many cars but enough to see good and bad floor mats designs.
    Chrysler daytona '87 was terrible. Nothing at all to hold the mats in place and even winter mats with "spikes" under to hold them to the carpet would frequently move around.
    Audi A4 2001 was great. Pin system that held really well and worked with both summer and winter mats. I can't see how they would move accidentally.
    Acura MDX 2005 is also great. Different pin system but holds just as well.

    And if the floormat is not too blame surely braking should help enough to prevent accidents in most situations unless you were already going too fast and too close to someone. And then after the braking helps with the initial panic you can turn the ignition off or go for neutral.

  126. true of all gas vehicles by Fourpole · · Score: 1

    This is true of any gas powered automobile with vacuum assisted braking, not just Toyota models. Manifold vacuum goes down as engine speed goes up. Modern cars have a vacuum reservoir to give you a few assisted pumps of the brake in the absence of a source of vacuum, but after that you are on your own.

  127. Turning off a Toyota with Smart key. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Some one mentioned their 2010 prius with the smart key and being unable to turn off the ignition while driving. This is not true. If you actually read your owners manual you would see that if while driving, you put the foot on the break, and hold the power switch down for 5 seconds, the ignition in your smart key vehicle will cut ignition.

  128. Wasn't the Metro.. by Dareth · · Score: 1

    That was the kid on the bicycle behind you pushing!

    --

    I only look human.
    My mother is a halfling and my dad is an ogre, so that makes me an Ogreling
  129. Brakes!!!!!! (Re:PEBAAC) by Big+Smirk · · Score: 1

    What gets missed in all these articles is that the brakes on a car can always over power the motor. Take a car like Porsche twin turbo. It decelerates from 100 mph to zero in about 3 seconds. Takes 10+ seconds to get there.

    So when you hit the brakes you will slow down. Unless you drive like an idiot, dragging the brakes and overheating to the point they are outgassing so much there is no pad to rotor (or shoe to drum) contact.

    So... unless there is indication of a brake failure, PEBAAC is right

    --
    TODO: create/find/steal funny sig.
    1. Re:Brakes!!!!!! (Re:PEBAAC) by Binary+Boy · · Score: 1

      Ever noticed that most people actually remove their foot from the accelerator before applying the brakes? Ever tried stomping the brakes *while* the accelerator is floored?

      There was a recent case in Southern California of an off-duty sherrifs deputy, I believe, dying (with several members of his family) in a Lexus whose accelerator was stuck (floor mats, apparently)... applying the brakes did nothing but disintegrate his brakes, enough so that witnesses said flames were licking out of the wheels. At 120mph, with the accelerator stuck, your brakes are not going to help much.

    2. Re:Brakes!!!!!! (Re:PEBAAC) by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      There are almost no cars in existance where the brakes would "disintegrate" before the car was stopped. It could happen if the driver rides the brakes for a while holding the speed of the car down, however that isn't applying them to stop the car. If you don't believe me, try it. Get in your car, hold down the gas until you are going 100 mph, then floor the throttle and brake at the same time, pressing both as hard as you can. In about 5 seconds (or less) you will be at a complete stop.

      And if you are an idiot sheriff, you would have never thought to put the car in neutral or turn it off. And these are the people who run around thinking they can speed because they are better drivers than everyone else? A good driver would have noticed a shifting floor mat, and not killed his family through absolutely horrible driving choices.

  130. Another emergency option by RealErmine · · Score: 1

    My current car is a Mitsubishi with their FASTkey system that allows me to keep the key fob in my pocket and unlock the door by grabbing the handle. The fob also acts as an electronic ignition enable while it is inside the car.

    If the car is running and the key fob is moved away from the car, the engine will be disabled.

    I would like to think that in an emergency situation, such as a runaway throttle event, I would have the presence of mind to chuck my keys out the window as a last resort.

    --
    Dewey, you fool! Your decimal system has played right into my hands!
  131. Audi Suffered the Same Thing by IronSilk · · Score: 1

    In the 1980's CBS' "60 Minutes" repeatedly aired an article about "unintended acceleration", including a dramatic interview with a woman who ran over and killed her 6-year-old son. Audi sales were severely affected for years. In the end, the consensus among engineers is that drivers were pressing on the gas pedal when they thought it was the brake. In the case of the 6-year-old, the accelerator pedal was mashed heavily into the floor mat. For obvious psychological reasons, the woman could not admit she was pressing the gas. The Toyota situation of unintended acceleration is probably an urban legend. We will see.

  132. A times B times C equals X. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If X is less than the cost of a recall, we don't do one.

  133. Re:brAKEs aren't designed to counter the engine at by Big+Smirk · · Score: 1

    Bull.

    Try it with any production car. Mash the throttle and hold it back with the brakes. The brakes will win. Period, end of story.

    Brake fade can be one of two reasons. Boiling the brake fluid which typically doesn't happen right away. Besides, you are flushing the brake fluid every year right???? and "Pad Fade" where the brake pads themselves overheat to the point they no longer grip the steel rotors or drums.

    Try another experiment. On a road, at 50mph, mash the same pedal (in whatever gear) then floor the brakes. You again will stop the car.

    Brakes can (at least for a short period of time) absorb about 5x the horsepower that the engine can put out. As long as you ultimately bring the car to a complete stop you will be O.K.

    --
    TODO: create/find/steal funny sig.
  134. F1 by johno.ie · · Score: 1

    Perhaps Toyota should have used this "technology" in their Formula 1 cars. It might have helped them tremendously during the last few years. It seems that it's too late now though.

    --
    872835240
  135. Lexus has issues as well by aspelling · · Score: 1

    My wife co-worker's Lexus accelerated unexpectedly unfortunately she had automatic tranny which refused to go into neutral.
    Two things has happened as a result -
    Bad: she got injured
    Good: her Lexus was a total loss so she could get rid of it

  136. Remain calm, brake then neutral by whitedsepdivine · · Score: 1

    http://abcnews.go.com/Video/playerIndex?id=8980024 Remain calm, brake then neutral. See link above. I like 1990 - 2000 Japanese manual cars. They only have one computer and things are pretty simple. I wonder if there is a separate computer in the newer cars that controls the interaction between the throttle and the intake valve.

  137. Re:OMG - I own a Nissan Sentra and it happened to by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Toyota's all come with hooks for the floor mats. It appears that some dealers had been applying winter mats over the normal factor mats (so they weren't hooked in and slipped forward).

  138. knowledge is freedom by e-scetic · · Score: 1

    As a sailor I find this discussion interesting because I've been forced by necessity to learn and understand how everything on my boat works, including diesel engine, electric, plumbing, rigging, sail, paint, even the construction materials used. I've also come to mistrust hi-tech in a marine environment.

    If my diesel runs away, I know of at least two methods to stop it, and can usually diagnose and solve other mechanical problems. If the steering fails, I know how to access and repair the steering components, but if I can't then I at least know how to steer by sail alone. If the electric fails I can systematically isolate the fault, or just sail without. If the plumbing fails I can likewise isolate the cause and have the equipment on hand to repair it or stop the leak. In essence, I've become a plumber, mechanic, electrician, carpenter, engineer, etc.

    But I think most yachties are more like car owners, they don't want to know, they just pay others to fix it.

    I tell you, knowledge is freedom. The less you understand the workings of something, the more enslaved you are.

    Oh, and the more you pay through the nose for it.

    Me, I'll continue to ride my bike to work.

  139. Found on EBay: Toyota Rapid Acceleration Kit by LifesABeach · · Score: 1

    Contents of kit:
    1. Head Band with a large red dot in the middle.
    2. 1 copy of written instructions:
    When Rapid Acceleration occurs, place Head Band on head.
    Raise both hands above head.
    Scream the following: "Banzai! Banzai! Banzai!"

    My apologies, to Anime Fans, everywhere.

  140. Floormat Hook? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Do we know if the toyotas have the "floor mat hook"? so the mat does not move....

    I had the same problem with my old saturn (01 SC1) with the throttle sticking. POS CAR!

    i have a honda (06 accord 5speed), wire throttle.. no issue yet..

  141. Buy American - problem solved ;-) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Buy American - problem solved ;-)

    nuf said

  142. It's The Cruise Control by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Do the accident related automobiles have cruise control?

  143. Has time to call 911 on cell phone, but ? by puddles · · Score: 1

    But no time (or presence of mind) to push the selector into neutral? How about turning the ignition off? What?

    The stupid, it burns!

  144. Overheated brakes don't by enbody · · Score: 1

    One point missed on all posts is that overheated brakes don't work. If brake operation allows them to heat up too much before enough stopping occurs, you will get to complete failure. I can see it possible to be racing down the road, get the brakes heated, and then fail to generate enough braking to stop the vehicle.

    Having said that, I'm on the side of "user error" in these cases.

  145. For my car, floor mats are definitely a problem by Shane+dot+H · · Score: 1

    I drive a current generation Tacoma with manual transmission, which is covered by the recall.

    In my case, the floor mats really do get in the way of the pedals on a regular basis. I noticed it nearly immediately, but loved the truck enough to look the other way. Maybe it's because I drive a manual transmission that I notice it, but the mat OFTEN interferes with the pedals. I just sorta have to reach down and pull it out of the way from time to time.

    And I've noticed similar issues with other Toyotas/Lexuses that I've rented/borrowed. Now I'm not saying that these guys in TFA aren't right, but in my case the floormats are a sufficient explanation. Throw in a pushbutton start and an automatic transmission and I understand how accidents could happen.

    SteveWoz's concern about Toyota cruise controls - that's something I definitely started noticing in the early 90's. Some models are worse than others, but either way - the speed control is errative and unresponsive in most Toyotas I've driven.

  146. Floor mat stuck on my Audi by DomNF15 · · Score: 1

    So, the situation that has been described with the Toyota/Lexus cars has happened to me at least a handful of times with my A4. When I notice the car continuing to accelerate, which usually takes about a second or so, I immediately depress the clutch, let the engine "redline", which really means it hits the fuel cutoff, and yank the floor mat back. I think driving a manual does make you more aware of what's going on. At the very least it requires more attention and physical coordination/finesse. Maybe if I drove an automatic, I wouldn't realize I had to pull the lever into Neutral, or at least not as quickly.

  147. Ford acceleration problem by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I had a Ford in the 90s that seemed to accelerate on its own. Happened for a few months. I assumed it was some problem with the cruise control, and so did everyone in my family who drove the car. One day it happened as I was rounding a corner in the snow. Not good. A few weeks later I noticed it was the floor mat getting in the way of the pedal. Especially in cars that have cruise control, it is easy to think that is the problem and overlook a simpler explanation.

  148. Re:brAKEs aren't designed to counter the engine at by Macgruder · · Score: 1

    From a post above you....

    "Braking systems have this thing called a brake booster. When the throttle plate isn't fully opened, the engine creates vacuum. The vacuum pressure is supplied to the brake booster, which has a diaphram inside. When vacuum is present, the booster assists the brake pedal making it easier to depress.

    When the car is at WOT (wide open throttle), there is no vacuum and therefore no brake assist. On a turbo charged car, there is positive pressure at WOT (though there should be a check valve in the vacuum line). If you put positive pressure in the brake booster, you get the opposite effect, and you're not going to stop the car
    "

    --
    I'm not crazy,I'm actively irresponsible.
  149. A few points on E-throttle design by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I work in a European automotive company and I'd like to make a few points : 1) e-throttle is the reference design on every new car sold in Europe, it is the only way to meet the pollutant emissions regulations in Euope. Moreover it provides reductions in fuel consumption. 2) The unwanted acceleration is the most dangerous event that is taken into account in the design of the system 3) several levels of redundancies are designed to avoid this, both at hardware and software level. It implies dual sensors for the gas pedal, dual estimation of the desired torque, and switching to a safe state in case of discrepancy. The floor mat hypothesis seems not too far fetched for me, even if I have no insight on the Toyota design for this ECU.

  150. Not all situations are driver error. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Doesn't anyone remember the issue with Ford vehicles accelerating out of control back in the '90's ?
    The problem was EVENTUALLY traced to the design of the wiring harness.
    The wiring harness was not supported correctly and eventually some of the wires would get bare spots. And whenever there was enough moisture in the air; due to either rain or simply high humidity. The cruise control would accelerate the car.

    Also; I once had a VW diesel Dasher that would accelerate wildly on it's own.
    The issue turned out to be that particular year had a problem with uneven pressure in the cylinder head. Causing engine oil to leak past the rings.
    When enough engine oil entered the combustion chamber; the car would then run and accelerate uncontrollably on that oil.

    So DON'T dismiss all the cases as driver error.

  151. you speak as a true geek ... by Brigadier · · Score: 1

    Your absolutely right, now move this conversation to Detroit ... or mexico or wherever it is that they make cars. The engineers get paid bank, the programmer who buys a no brand multi use controller off a radio shack shelf and programs it using 50 lines of basic code gets paid crap. Fact is computers are still not a part of true car culture. For the record just because you have a dressed down garmin heads up doesn't make it computer controlled.

    Shoot the capacitors in my 94 galant still explode periodically because they were the cheapest parts Mitsubishi could get.

  152. Learn to drive by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    So Toyota is the latest whipping boy... While I don't doubt that it's possible for a cruise control system or throttle body control computer to get stuck/fail, or a floor mat getting in the way, 99.99% of all these 'run away acceleration' incidents are driver error. I was the owner of an Audi 5000 back in the 80's when Audi was getting the beating over this. As it turns out people were pressing the accelerator instead of, or in addition to, the brake pedal because they were so close together (a design I really like in cars cause it allows easy heal-toe pedaling - something almost impossible to find now since the lawyers ravaged the auto industry over the design).

    I had my own experience with a gentleman test driving my Audi when it came time to sell it. He accelerated when approaching a stop sign instead of slowing... He thought it was the car "still warming up" or some such nonsense, but I happened to look at his feet at the time, and saw he was pressing both pedals (gas more than brake) instead of only the brake pedal. Fortunately we didn't have an 'incident'.

    Regardless, in all tests from all auto manufacturers that have been accused of this "unintended acceleration" thing... It doesn't matter what they do to cause a full open throttle (simulated failures, full accelerator pedal depression, etc) the cars can always be brought to a full and remarkably quick stop by applying full pressure to the brake pedal. Sooooo, people, use the damn brakes! Even if you accidently press the gas too, you can still stop by fully depressing the brake pedal! Use both feet on the brake pedal if you have to!! You can also throw 'er in neutral and pull the emergency brake should the worst coincidence occur - where you have an open throttle plus brake failure - what are the chances of that?

  153. Bugatti Veyron UNDERpowered? by professorguy · · Score: 1

    The Veyron has 1001 horsepower. It can accelerate from 0 to 400k/h in 50 seconds. But it can decelerate from 400k/h to 0 in 10 seconds.

    Correctly functioning brakes are ALWAYS more powerful than the engine.

  154. Awww, c'mon you guys ... by gordguide · · Score: 1

    All this stuff about drive-by-wire failing, blaming the computer, and all that is clearly impossible.

    Didn't you read the parent post? The NHTSA has investigated SIX of these computers and the controlling software, and found no issues.

  155. Revise their new "forward" slogan? by sethstorm · · Score: 2, Funny

    Toyota: Moving you forward into the next traffic jam. Whether you like it or not.

    --
    Twitter supports and protects racists - by smearing their critics with the "Hate Speech" label.
  156. Been there before by brain1 · · Score: 1

    I had a 1969 Chevy Nova that had this same kind of problem. The design of the accelerator was a set of rods that was hinged off the pedal, up the firewall to a pivot, and straight forward to the carburetor. All was well and good until an engine mount broke and it rocked a bit to one side. Engine mounts are intentionally captive, so it never breaks free, but suddenly there's a lot more transverse travel. Make a hard turn in traffic and the throttle gets pinned full open by that fixed linkage as the engine rocks to one side and stays there due to torque. I was a scared 16 year old kid in a suddenly hurtling rocket. But even through that, I had the presence of mind to reach up and turn the key off. So the question begs: Why didn't these people just switch off the engine when things went wrong?

  157. Re: The Case by colinnwn · · Score: 1

    I assume you are talking about the case of the 20 year police officer and his family in a loaner Lexus?

    In the article I read, it was postulated possibly the zigzag gating of most newer car auto trannies makes it harder to quickly bump into neutral. This seems somewhat silly as I doubt most people look down when shifting to park. You just kinda cram it up there till it goes. It seems like if it was an emergency, you could get the car into neutral/reverse/park which would stop power transfer to the wheels.

    As I was thinking about this though, I thought to myself - do any of these new cars with fly-by controls either lock out certain gates in the mechanical automatic tranny linkage, or do any of them have fly-by automatic tranny control, where this would be impossible?

  158. Not driver error? bzzt - wrong! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    "moving while he was filling it with gas, so clearly not driver error"

    If the car was not turned off and in park (or as applicable w/manual trans.) then it is definitely driver error.

    Or are you claiming the car spontaneously started itself?

    1. Re:Not driver error? bzzt - wrong! by longbot · · Score: 1

      The Prius is a hybrid. The gas engine doesn't HAVE to be running for it to begin moving. Just the electric portion.

      --
      I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it! --Longbottle
    2. Re:Not driver error? bzzt - wrong! by cbiltcliffe · · Score: 1

      The Prius is a hybrid. It can move with the electric motor without ever starting the gasoline one.

      And yes, that could be done completely by the computer.

      --
      "City hall" in German is "Rathaus" Kinda explains a few things......
    3. Re:Not driver error? bzzt - wrong! by adavidw · · Score: 1

      The Prius is a hybrid. It can move with the electric motor without ever starting the gasoline one.

      And yes, that could be done completely by the computer.

      Problem is, it can't be done when the battery is physically disconnected from the electric motor. When you turn the Prius off, there's a big honkin' relay that actually cuts the supply from the traction battery to the motor. That relay doesn't get connected until the start button gets pressed with a valid key present, plus about a couple of dozen more checks. For a Prius that's actually shut off to start moving would require a cascade of failures to occur just to even get the battery reconnected to the motor. Then, once that happens, the ECU would have to shift itself out of park, which it's designed not to do unless the brake pedal is depressed. So, again, a couple of failures have to occur simultaneously for that to happen.

      A much more likely scenario is that someone gets out of the car and forgets to turn the car off because the engine's already stopped. Not saying it's impossible for what the GP described to happen. It's just about a billion times more likely for the driver to screw it up. Occam's razor and all that.

    4. Re:Not driver error? bzzt - wrong! by cbiltcliffe · · Score: 1

      While I can see how you'd say that "a cascade of failures" would be required for this to happen, the one thing you're not realizing is:

      The relay control, the valid key check, and all the other checks are all performed by the computer. That computer is a single point of failure.

      The only thing that would have to fail besides the computer is the brake/transmission interlock. But I wouldn't think a single mechanical failure in a car with electronics problems would be that unlikely, if the electronics failures are as widespread as claimed.

      That's like saying a transmission failure and an exploding gastank are unlikely to occur in the same car.

      That logic breaks down if the car in question is a Pinto.

      --
      "City hall" in German is "Rathaus" Kinda explains a few things......
  159. Morons by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    "She was driving her Toyota Prius outside Denver, CO when she says it suddenly shot up to 90 miles an hour......." In a Prius??? Suddenly??? I think not. There's the ignition switch....the little thingy that the shiny metal piece goes into to turn the car on and off. TURN IT OFF! There's the emergency brake....PULL IT! There's this thing called the gear shift, PUT IT IN NEUTRAL or if necessary, slam it into park.

  160. vacuum power brake by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The power brake uses vacuum from the intake to operate. At high rpm there is no vacuum and therefore no brake assist.

  161. 1970s Audi fix by damn_registrars · · Score: 1

    The fix was to put a metal guard plate over the rod behind the brake pedal.

    I thought the fix was to require the driver to depress the brake pedal to shift from park to reverse or drive - which later became a requirement for all automatic transmissions in the US. If the driver has to depress the brake first (while still in park) they are less likely to have the engine start revving up without noticing it (and before engaging drive or reverse).

    --
    Damn_registrars has no butt-hole. Damn_registrars has no use for a butt-hole.
    1. Re:1970s Audi fix by Divebus · · Score: 1

      Yes, that's what the "driver error" camp had come up with as one likely fix for the cause. I don't know about that one. Forty years after the introduction of the Hydra-Matic transmission, suddenly people are confused about when to step on the gas and shift into drive? A silent modification on the post "60 Minutes" Audis was to put a steel plate as a guard over the accelerator linkage rod behind the brake pedal. Having owned a pile of Audis through that era, I'd have to say my later ones with the steel plate prevented accidental contact with the accelerator link. It was an incredibly dumb design to start with. Might as well put the power window and ejection seat buttons next to each other.

      --

      Most of the stuff on /. won't survive first contact with facts.
    2. Re:1970s Audi fix by damn_registrars · · Score: 1

      accidental contact with the accelerator link. It was an incredibly dumb design to start with

      I can say from my experience that you didn't see the first German car with an impeccably stupid throttle linkage design. One of my previous cars was a dune buggy (on an original bug chassis); somehow the original linkage on that was knocked out while I was driving one day. The linkage was a single piece of metal bent to the shape of an "S" with an additional 90 degree bend. Once it was out there was no way to reinstall it. I eventually went to a shop that specialized in old bug parts, where the owner was very familiar with that problem. He gave me an aftermarket device that was made to substitute (one of these) which looked a bit odd but worked much better than original.

      --
      Damn_registrars has no butt-hole. Damn_registrars has no use for a butt-hole.
  162. Nationalism is not wrong. by tjstork · · Score: 1

    Your jingoism is naive and pathetic

    You can call me jingoistic and naive, but at least I checked the numbers. Free trade hasn't worked. If it did work, over the last 40 years, American standard of living would have risen, but it has fallen. If it did work, we might have had a positive trade balance more than once during the course of the 40 years. If it did work, we would not be twenty trillion dollars in debt.

    I mean, sure, you can go ahead and drive your jap car past all the blown own cities, pretend the sapping of our national resolve has nothing to do with the fact that we do not make anything anymore, mutter on some jumbo crap about having an IP based economy, but, the fact is, free trade doesn't work, hasn't worked, and won't work, and quite frankly, by the numbers, is just as big as a failure as socialism is.

    It's not even that you are screwing your own country over by buying foreign products. It's that, you think you are smart to do so. What's next, 2+2 = 5?

    --
    This is my sig.
    1. Re:Nationalism is not wrong. by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Free trade hasn't worked.

      Free trade hasn't been tried. The current situation is anything but free trade. The terms under which my Jap Car and my Kraut Can were imported into the USA (they're old enough to have been made in Japan and Germany, respectively... though oddly the MBZ has numerous American parts) were established as part of "the whole WWII thing", which is to say they were designed largely by "our" government.

      pretend the sapping of our national resolve has nothing to do with the fact that we do not make anything anymore,

      The fact that two out of three of the vehicles I own (the Subaru is leaving my hands soon, but I digress) were made in other countries is due to the fact that the stuff that was being made at the time they were imported was a bunch of pure shit. Name one American car made in the 1990s that can come up against my Subaru. Name one in the 1980s which is even vaguely close to what a '82 MBZ 300SD is. It's purely impossible. What the hell does "our national resolve" mean, anyway? My lack of interest in this nation is founded upon the fact that its government exists primarily to self-perpetuate and to fatten some already excessively fat pockets, and the people have lost their interest in making it do anything else. Whether they gave it up or it was taken is essentially an academic point; it happened long before I was born, and the system of education is designed to indoctrinate new citizens into a way of thinking that is essentially unsustainable and fallacious.

      It's not even that you are screwing your own country over by buying foreign products. It's that, you think you are smart to do so. What's next, 2+2 = 5?

      Well actually, I don't even buy new cars whether I can afford to or not (sometimes in life I've been able to, sometimes not so much.) So really, it doesn't matter what brand I'm buying. Someone has to buy a new car sometime, but I'd rather let someone else eat that cost. The situation is more complicated than you imagine it to be; many of the parts I'm buying are remanufactured right here in the USA. But what boggles my mind is that you think it's smart to buy an inferior product just because it's made in your own country. Just to put all this in perspective, Japanese cars are made primarily out of recycled American steel bought for pennies on the ton. Their use of this harder steel in the 1970s enabled them to build vehicles which are lighter yet more rigid. And to put that in perspective, Mitsubishi Zero aircraft were built with aluminum purchased from ALCOA. Tell me again what the difference is between one country and another?

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    2. Re:Nationalism is not wrong. by tjstork · · Score: 1

      Free trade hasn't been tried. The current situation is anything but free trade. T

      This is just like how they say socialism hasn't really been tried. Thing is, we've tried free trade and we've tried socialism enough. Both failed because they rely on people having a utopian vision. Free trade can't work, and won't work, because, no trade agreement will ever allow the free flow of goods, because, cultural differences make the value of goods impossible to map, and, finally, and most importantly, money is inadequate to the task of comparing value in goods.

      Name one American car made in the 1990s that can come up against my Subaru. Name one in the 1980s which is even vaguely close to what a '82 MBZ 300SD is.

      I'm not saying that the Suburu isn't a good car. In fact, my point, is, let's say the Suburu is five times the car that the American car is. If so, why doesn't it cost 5 times as much? Before you go on about labor costs, consider this. An ounce of gold costs the same, regardless of how it is mined or extracted. The cost to make something has absolutely no relationship to its price, so if you take that off the table, it says that the money itself is screwed up.

      But what boggles my mind is that you think it's smart to buy an inferior product just because it's made in your own country

      It is, by far, because you create a capability in your people to make things. I've written about this a little bit and researched it. Compare the north and the south pre-civil war. The north was protectionist and built up its manufacturing. The south was free trade and relied on imported goods and comparative advantage. Who won the civil war? The north did, because southerners were too stupid to make their own cannon.

      Nowadays though, look at where the manufacturing is in the USA, increasingly. It's the South, and you know why? a) they've built up great engineering schools as a regional priority, and b) they've made themselves more competitive in wages... even the japanese in the usa predominantly build themselves in the south.

      BTW, you are pretty wrong on the steel in Japanese cars.. the rigidity of the car has nothing to do with the steel. It's the unibody design that does that for you. American cars pre-1980s were actually made of a higher grade steel than their japanese counterparts and were and are very strong cars. But they are body on frame and frames flex. So, the American car tended to not feel as stiff, but, if it ever ran into a Japanese car (as my Olds vs Honda experiment illustrated), the Japanese car would be destroyed. Nowadays the only way you get body on frame with a decent steel is in a truck, an SUV... its like, my next car is going to wind up being a used Mercury Marauder, if I can find one.

      --
      This is my sig.
    3. Re:Nationalism is not wrong. by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Thing is, we've tried free trade and we've tried socialism enough.

      No, no, a thousand times no. Socialism, maybe. Free trade, though, has never existed throughout human history and it's one of those boolean things; either you have it or you don't. The "invisible hand" cannot correct anything when even one digit is tied off... or cut off, as is a more apt metaphor here.

      I'm not saying that the Suburu isn't a good car. In fact, my point, is, let's say the Suburu is five times the car that the American car is. If so, why doesn't it cost 5 times as much?

      Because it can't be sold for five times as much, because people won't pay five times as much. As you point out, the way things are priced has to do with what the market will bear.

      It is, by far, because you create a capability in your people to make things.

      But you clearly don't, because American cars had become pure shit, and that is why the Japanese were able to take the lead. Americans were resting on their laurels instead of learning how to make better things. You need competition for advancement, and the Japanese provided that. Without the Japanese we'd still be making cars based on 1960s technology, because people would still be paying for them.

      Nowadays though, look at where the manufacturing is in the USA, increasingly. It's the South, and you know why?

      Because there's a lot of cheap land, low taxes, and rail available to transport raw materials and finished vehicles. Thanks for playing, though.

      BTW, you are pretty wrong on the steel in Japanese cars.. the rigidity of the car has nothing to do with the steel. It's the unibody design that does that for you.

      BTW, I took two years of auto body and paint classes and learned this fact from a 35-year veteran body man who knows a fuck of a lot more about auto body than you do... and apparently, so do I. American cars have been primarily unibody since the 1970s, and were going that way before the Japanese even sold any significant number of cars here... anything in the 1970s that's not a full-size land yacht usually uses at least stub frame construction (where the front end of the vehicle has some pretty honest frame rails, but the rear is pure unibody) because Americans had figured out that much at least. Unfortunately, the message that we failed to receive is that big ignorant engines are not the future. With a little more engineering you can get nearly the same output out of much smaller engines; Domestic automakers have their own engines of this type now, e.g. Ford Zetec. Smaller engine means less weight, which means less body, which means less weight! Let us not forget also that Japanese automakers advanced their suspensions long before American automakers even got hip to the idea of handling. Every where you look, American automakers simply failed to execute. I don't know if it was racism or just misplaced belief in our own superiority, but they expected us to buy shit with a smile and refused to engage in technology transfers with foreign automakers. Have you really not noticed that American cars have only become halfway decent since the whole DaimlerChrysler thing? And those big Chryslers only even have E-class suspension, hardy har har.

      Buying American because it is American is precisely what you want to do if you want your country to turn into a gigantic, mediocre piece of shit. Personally, I only buy things made in the USA if they are actually superior. I have few things made in the USA. Because I am totally lacking in jingoism I would rather see America forced to change our unsustainable practices rather than simply supporting them by throwing money at companies whose actions I do not agree with. I could give one tenth of one shit about this country; I care much more for humanity, but don't ask me how much I care about that, either.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
  163. Love the headline: Owner's "up in arms" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Meaning "arms are raised rollercoaster style while drivers accelerate off edge of cliff" ....AHHHHHH!!!!!!

  164. maybe I am daft but by vuffi_raa · · Score: 1

    did the inspectors inspect the code that is driving the electronic systems or just turn it on and see if it works?