ABOUT TROLLING FLIES: Trolling flies are underwater flies meant to be submerged in the water and presented to the fish as a moving piece of food. All of the Lake Trolling Flies were designed to be trolled underwater. What makes them different from other flies?
DESIGN: The trolling fly is designed to look its best when moving underwater. Where dry fly tyers struggle to reproduce a fly that looks just like the real live variety of bug, the trolling fly does not. The important elements in the design of the trolling fly is to attract the attention of the fish. The suggestion of prey shape, bold use of color, glitter and movement are elements that attract.
SIZE: LAKE TROLLING FLIES: are all tied on size 6 hooks in several styles to match the fly design. Testing over the last 50 years has shown this size is tempting to fish. The KOKANEE FLY, the STREEKER FLY and the #2 MARABOU LEECH are tied on size 2 hooks in several styles to match the fly pattern.These flies are for deep fishing where fish are bigger and need a big fly to tempt them.
MATERIAL: All Lake Trolling Flies are tied with materials such as Chenille. Chenille soaks up water and makes the fly heavy. A heavy fly is necessary to keep the fly from trying to float toward the surface of the Lake. The fly needs to stay on the same plane as the leader that is pulling the fly for the perfect presentation to the trout. Flys are also tied with many glittery material like krystal flash, flashabou and bead heads to increase their visibility to the fish.
COLOR: Trout may see color, or they may see the light reflected off objects. However they see their prey, for the trolling fisherman, color is important. Visibility is determined by light waves that color reemits. The fluorescent colors, fluorescent orange, fluorescent green and fluorescent pink reemit the longest light waves, blues and greens are shorter and red, violet and brown have the the shortest wave lengths and quickly fade to black. The amount of change will depend on the amount of light present. There is also a biological phenomenon that occurs regularly each day that renders the forage prey of the fish invisible, conditions of the environment cause this occurance. Trout are voracious eaters and they would soon eat all their prey without these periods of invisibility. The trolling fisherman can take advantage of this phenomenon by choosing colors with the most light emission to prolong somewhat the visibility of their prey offering.
GLITTER, MOVEMENT AND OTHER ATTRACTANTS: The main purpose of the trolling fly is to attract the attention of the fish. Most of the time the fly itself is the most important attractant. There are times though when more is needed. Movement in the form of a beaded spinner such as theBEAD LINE SPINNER or the LAKE SPINNER can be attached to the fly. Other attractants that work are a bit of worm or powerbait added to the hook. Remember though these flies do work very well without any other attractants.
USING LIGHT TACKLE: Probably the best method devised for trolling with flies is the Light Tackle set up. This consists of a trolling rod or any rod to which a level wind reel or drag reel can be attached. Use 50 to 100 feet of backing and metered lead core line on the reel. The 18 lb. colored leaded line works well and the colors help you to judge the depth at which your fly will be presenting. Attached to the colored leaded line should be at least 20 to 40 feet of leader. The leader needs to be this long to get the fly far enough away from the leaded line, and the boat, so it will not spook the fish. It also allows the fly to work naturally. A good weight for the leader in most trout fishing lakes is four to six pound test. Be sure to Troll the fly slowly and at various depths until you have located the fish. A good plan when fishing a lake new to you is to check a topography map of the lake. Find out where the shallows are, the deep areas and the places most likely to have fish congregatin
I had been running rh7.3 for about 8 months or so. this was in upgrade to rh 7.0 and later 7.1. I went out and purchased teh boxed version of 8.0 personal and took it home and installed it. I immediately re-installed 7.3. I was som completely dissapointed that I couldn't even open a terminal window from the desktop. Instead I'm left with this ckeap ass windows xp wannabe/kde ripoff desktop called BlueCurve? So any way, back to 7.3. Rebuild, update, etc.
Well, after some time of running 7.3 again I finally recieved a notice via email that my up2date service was about to run out. I coughed up the $50 to re-instate the service and continued with my updates etc.
Flash forward to this last Sunday. I'm setting up networking in the house. Simple setup. Hub, router, 4 computers, etc etc. I also picked up a new ATI 7000 video card.
I get networking all set up in three other windows machines and in the Linux machine.
Okay after testing to make sure every thing is fine, I move on to the video card installation. Easy. Two minutes and I'm booting back to Linux to configure. Here comes kudzu. Yep, discard and reconfigure new. Okay, on my way, reboot. can't bring up the fucking gui! So off to xf86config hell I go. I'm not a pro linux user in fact I'm quite novice by any tough guy linux zealot standards. I can do some shit on the command line but I am not a programmer. I don't necessarily want to be. I just know that I like to run good software, {when it wants to run}.
back and forth back and forth. no luck in rh 7.3 with the new radeon. So it's back to the voodoo 3. Well, som of a bitch, don't you know the only thing I can get the voodoo to do now is 1024 x 768. it was 1200 x 1024 before thsi whole bunch of crap happened.
SO I get curious. I grab my 8.0 disks again thainking that if I throw the radeon card in and opt for an upgrade that I can render properly and get back to where I should be with a new video card.
Okay so this works. Wait, god damned Blue Curve again. I want to change back to some normal 'smaker' setting like before or run 'blackbox' like I am so used to running. But Nnnnnnoooooooooo. Blue Curve is the default and that's what you get.
I just dropped $50 plus the cost of 8.0 so I figured, hey I've talked to redhat support before, they've been helpful over the phone, I'll call them and find out just how to get my old desktop back since I seem to have been sucked under this ugly ass bule curve crap and can't get out from it. Well, it seems that the hoops I jump through on the phone weren't enetrtaining enough for a techie at RH to give me the time of day other than telling me that I get email support only for the money I coughed up in the last week. Well, this screws me. No wait...this screws redhat, because now I really think you suck.
Re:better mod this down quuuuick!
on
Columbia Coverage
·
· Score: -1
No fair! That's a throw back from The Challenger explosion.
When looking for a motor there are several important issues that always come up. In order to cover these issues we have put together this guide. We have covered many points such as saltwater, thrust, shafts, voltage, props, batteries, mounts and more! If you have anything else you think we should include then let us know.
We have posted answers to many questions below. Feel free to send us your question too!
Should I go with a bow or transom mount motor?
Bow mount motors offer very precise control. In the wind or on a river a bow mount motor will help you the most. The drawback of a bow mount motor is that most of them are more or less permanently mounted on your bow.
Transom mount motors are more versatile and can be moved easily from boat to boat. On a small craft like a canoe or row boat they can be used as the primary source of power.
How much thrust do I need?
In general you want to have as much thrust as possible for the times when you run into wind and current. The rule of thumb in choosing thrust is to take the total weight of the loaded boat and divide it by 70. For example, if your boat with people and gear weighs a total of 3500 lbs you will then divide that by 70. That means that ideally you should have a motor with at least 50 lbs. of thrust.
First of all there are several types of steering to choose from. There is hand control, foot control, remote control, and even voice activated. Yes, that's right - voice activated. Believe it or not.
What it comes down to is your preferences and style of fishing. Some like the foot control because it allows for hands free control while fishing. While pulling in a big one you can maneuver your craft if necessary. If you are a no-frills type of person then hand control might be right for you. If you aren't a talker then I don't recommend a voice activated model. Fancy features aren't for everyone.
What length of shaft do I need?
First, that depends on whether you want a transom mounted motor or a bow mounted motor. If you go with a transom mounted motor then you need to know the distance from the transom to the waterline when your boat is loaded. You want to take that distance and add at least 20 inches to it. If there isn't a shaft in that size then round up. Let's say the distance is from the transom to the waterline is 10 inches. You then add 20 inches to that and the length of shaft you want is 30 inches.
If you want a bow mounted motor then you take the length from the top of the bow (where the motor would be mounted) to the waterline when the boat is loaded. You then add 20 inches to that number and then round up to the next longest shaft if you have to. So, if the distance from the bow to the water is 15 inches then you will add 20 inches to that. You come up with 35 inches but find that there is no motor for the brand you want with a 35 inch shaft. Therefore, all you have to do is round up to the 36 inch shaft. Simple, right?
We have a female cairn terrier, 3 months old and she has a terrible habit for eating poop. I have tried adding MSG to her food-pineapple and other items that I have pulled off the net. So far nothing has worked. We are having a terrible time housetraining her and when we take her outside she hunts for poop to eat and comes in to do her stuff and not always on paper my carpet need help desperately.
What We Think:
Eating poop, unfortunately, is a common problem in some dogs. There are a few products on the market under different names that when mixed with the dog's food it is supposed to make the poop taste bad (as if it doesn't already). One product is named "For-bid" but there are also others that you can try. Ask at your local pet supply store. Also, make sure your puppy is eating a balanced diet. A dog's feces, along with waste, can contain food as well. Your puppy may be seeking out poop as a nutritional source or simply a snack. Be sure you are feeding her a vet-recommended brand of puppy food; if you already are, consider trying another brand as every dog is different.
Also, be sure to pick up ALL the poop outside that you can (including her own) to give her little opportunity to eat it. And start teaching your puppy the "Leave It" command so when she leaves the poop alone, or you pull her away, you can praise her for doing the command correctly. As far as housetraining goes, if you haven't already, be sure to read the Puppy Poop article. As it explains in the article, your puppy must receive consistent praise for peeing and pooping outside, only then will she begin to understand what behavior you want from her. Having newspapers in the house usually confuses things even more, although she has a preference for carpet; she is smart as carpet is much more porous than newspaper! Follow the steps in the Puppy Poop article and after a few months of consistency and praise, she should be getting the hang of things.
What a rush! I mean, with your balls trapped in a steel ring suspending you two feet off the floor, who would let one go all over themselves, right?
Shit, from the sounds of it, you've partaken in this kinky little exercise. How did you like it? Did you cum? Did you come back for more. I bet you did, didn't you.
Now you're posting AC so no one will know how homo-erotic you are. Brilliant, you faggot!
hello, here is what I want to buy. please scan the bar code. take my credit card number and use it to pay for bar code item. the bank has my information so you may forward all of my purchase information to proper authorities. thank you bar code!
hello! I bought condoms today = the government knows I am going to have sex some time soon. thank you bar code!
hello! I did not buy a gun from a dealership. I didn't buy a gun at all, in fact. but if I bought one from an illegal arms dealer, I'm sure when he scans his bar code at the cash register, and I pay for it with my credit card, this information will be forwarded. thank you bar code!
I bought shaving cream and toilet paper. thank you bar code!
I bet they know how many cigarettes I smoke! thank you bar code!
ultimate paranoia. don't buy any thing incriminating. thank you bar code!
Slashdot Mirror
YOU ARE NOT LOGGED IN!
staple it to your left thigh
ABOUT TROLLING FLIES: Trolling flies are underwater flies meant to be submerged in the water and presented to the fish as a moving piece of food. All of the Lake Trolling Flies were designed to be trolled underwater. What makes them different from other flies?
DESIGN: The trolling fly is designed to look its best when moving underwater. Where dry fly tyers struggle to reproduce a fly that looks just like the real live variety of bug, the trolling fly does not. The important elements in the design of the trolling fly is to attract the attention of the fish. The suggestion of prey shape, bold use of color, glitter and movement are elements that attract.
SIZE: LAKE TROLLING FLIES: are all tied on size 6 hooks in several styles to match the fly design. Testing over the last 50 years has shown this size is tempting to fish. The KOKANEE FLY, the STREEKER FLY and the #2 MARABOU LEECH are tied on size 2 hooks in several styles to match the fly pattern.These flies are for deep fishing where fish are bigger and need a big fly to tempt them.
MATERIAL: All Lake Trolling Flies are tied with materials such as Chenille. Chenille soaks up water and makes the fly heavy. A heavy fly is necessary to keep the fly from trying to float toward the surface of the Lake. The fly needs to stay on the same plane as the leader that is pulling the fly for the perfect presentation to the trout. Flys are also tied with many glittery material like krystal flash, flashabou and bead heads to increase their visibility to the fish.
COLOR: Trout may see color, or they may see the light reflected off objects. However they see their prey, for the trolling fisherman, color is important. Visibility is determined by light waves that color reemits. The fluorescent colors, fluorescent orange, fluorescent green and fluorescent pink reemit the longest light waves, blues and greens are shorter and red, violet and brown have the the shortest wave lengths and quickly fade to black. The amount of change will depend on the amount of light present. There is also a biological phenomenon that occurs regularly each day that renders the forage prey of the fish invisible, conditions of the environment cause this occurance. Trout are voracious eaters and they would soon eat all their prey without these periods of invisibility. The trolling fisherman can take advantage of this phenomenon by choosing colors with the most light emission to prolong somewhat the visibility of their prey offering.
GLITTER, MOVEMENT AND OTHER ATTRACTANTS: The main purpose of the trolling fly is to attract the attention of the fish. Most of the time the fly itself is the most important attractant. There are times though when more is needed. Movement in the form of a beaded spinner such as theBEAD LINE SPINNER or the LAKE SPINNER can be attached to the fly. Other attractants that work are a bit of worm or powerbait added to the hook. Remember though these flies do work very well without any other attractants.
USING LIGHT TACKLE: Probably the best method devised for trolling with flies is the Light Tackle set up. This consists of a trolling rod or any rod to which a level wind reel or drag reel can be attached. Use 50 to 100 feet of backing and metered lead core line on the reel. The 18 lb. colored leaded line works well and the colors help you to judge the depth at which your fly will be presenting. Attached to the colored leaded line should be at least 20 to 40 feet of leader. The leader needs to be this long to get the fly far enough away from the leaded line, and the boat, so it will not spook the fish. It also allows the fly to work naturally. A good weight for the leader in most trout fishing lakes is four to six pound test. Be sure to Troll the fly slowly and at various depths until you have located the fish. A good plan when fishing a lake new to you is to check a topography map of the lake. Find out where the shallows are, the deep areas and the places most likely to have fish congregatin
You what else cable ruined?
Saturday morning cartoons that's what it ruined.
Before there was SpongeCock SquarePussy there was Droopy and that isn't so any more. And that makes me mad.
I had been running rh7.3 for about 8 months or so. this was in upgrade to rh 7.0 and later 7.1. I went out and purchased teh boxed version of 8.0 personal and took it home and installed it. I immediately re-installed 7.3. I was som completely dissapointed that I couldn't even open a terminal window from the desktop. Instead I'm left with this ckeap ass windows xp wannabe/kde ripoff desktop called BlueCurve? So any way, back to 7.3. Rebuild, update, etc.
Well, after some time of running 7.3 again I finally recieved a notice via email that my up2date service was about to run out. I coughed up the $50 to re-instate the service and continued with my updates etc.
Flash forward to this last Sunday. I'm setting up networking in the house. Simple setup. Hub, router, 4 computers, etc etc. I also picked up a new ATI 7000 video card.
I get networking all set up in three other windows machines and in the Linux machine.
Okay after testing to make sure every thing is fine, I move on to the video card installation. Easy. Two minutes and I'm booting back to Linux to configure. Here comes kudzu. Yep, discard and reconfigure new. Okay, on my way, reboot. can't bring up the fucking gui! So off to xf86config hell I go. I'm not a pro linux user in fact I'm quite novice by any tough guy linux zealot standards. I can do some shit on the command line but I am not a programmer. I don't necessarily want to be. I just know that I like to run good software, {when it wants to run}.
back and forth back and forth. no luck in rh 7.3 with the new radeon. So it's back to the voodoo 3. Well, som of a bitch, don't you know the only thing I can get the voodoo to do now is 1024 x 768. it was 1200 x 1024 before thsi whole bunch of crap happened.
SO I get curious. I grab my 8.0 disks again thainking that if I throw the radeon card in and opt for an upgrade that I can render properly and get back to where I should be with a new video card.
Okay so this works. Wait, god damned Blue Curve again. I want to change back to some normal 'smaker' setting like before or run 'blackbox' like I am so used to running. But Nnnnnnoooooooooo. Blue Curve is the default and that's what you get.
I just dropped $50 plus the cost of 8.0 so I figured, hey I've talked to redhat support before, they've been helpful over the phone, I'll call them and find out just how to get my old desktop back since I seem to have been sucked under this ugly ass bule curve crap and can't get out from it. Well, it seems that the hoops I jump through on the phone weren't enetrtaining enough for a techie at RH to give me the time of day other than telling me that I get email support only for the money I coughed up in the last week. Well, this screws me. No wait...this screws redhat, because now I really think you suck.
No fair! That's a throw back from The Challenger explosion.
as taken from the article -- "that is prety intresting"
Nope, no editors here.
Yes, but will it pour drinks for you?
ass nugget
that's what you are
First Reply To First Post
next time try it in a haiku
or, some thing like this...
1.) Wait until the hack
2.) Reburn
3.) ???
4.) Profit!!!
Did it ever occur to Irving Berlin that African Americans may have a problem with singing White Christmas?
Bah Humbug First Post
gettin' some work done on my hooha...
When looking for a motor there are several important issues that always come up. In order to cover these issues we have put together this guide. We have covered many points such as saltwater, thrust, shafts, voltage, props, batteries, mounts and more! If you have anything else you think we should include then let us know.
We have posted answers to many questions below. Feel free to send us your question too!
Should I go with a bow or transom mount motor?
Bow mount motors offer very precise control. In the wind or on a river a bow mount motor will help you the most. The drawback of a bow mount motor is that most of them are more or less permanently mounted on your bow.
Transom mount motors are more versatile and can be moved easily from boat to boat. On a small craft like a canoe or row boat they can be used as the primary source of power.
How much thrust do I need?
In general you want to have as much thrust as possible for the times when you run into wind and current. The rule of thumb in choosing thrust is to take the total weight of the loaded boat and divide it by 70. For example, if your boat with people and gear weighs a total of 3500 lbs you will then divide that by 70. That means that ideally you should have a motor with at least 50 lbs. of thrust.
Motor Thrust
Total Weight
30 lbs 2100 lbs
36 lbs 2520 lbs
40 lbs2800 lbs
42 lbs 2940 lbs
44 lbs 3080 lbs
48 lbs 3360 lbs
50 lbs 3500 lbs
55 lbs 3850 lbs
65 lbs 4550 lbs
74 lbs 5180 lbs
101 lbs 7070 lbs
What type of steering should I choose?
First of all there are several types of steering to choose from. There is hand control, foot control, remote control, and even voice activated. Yes, that's right - voice activated. Believe it or not.
What it comes down to is your preferences and style of fishing. Some like the foot control because it allows for hands free control while fishing. While pulling in a big one you can maneuver your craft if necessary. If you are a no-frills type of person then hand control might be right for you. If you aren't a talker then I don't recommend a voice activated model. Fancy features aren't for everyone.
What length of shaft do I need?
First, that depends on whether you want a transom mounted motor or a bow mounted motor. If you go with a transom mounted motor then you need to know the distance from the transom to the waterline when your boat is loaded. You want to take that distance and add at least 20 inches to it. If there isn't a shaft in that size then round up. Let's say the distance is from the transom to the waterline is 10 inches. You then add 20 inches to that and the length of shaft you want is 30 inches.
If you want a bow mounted motor then you take the length from the top of the bow (where the motor would be mounted) to the waterline when the boat is loaded. You then add 20 inches to that number and then round up to the next longest shaft if you have to. So, if the distance from the bow to the water is 15 inches then you will add 20 inches to that. You come up with 35 inches but find that there is no motor for the brand you want with a 35 inch shaft. Therefore, all you have to do is round up to the 36 inch shaft. Simple, right?
Bow to Waterline
Shaft Length
0-10 inches 30 inches
11-16 inches 36 inches
17-22 inches 42 inches
23-30 inches 50 inches
31-34 inches 54 inches
Battery chargers and testers
We do recommend having a battery tester so that you know how much power is left in your battery. Many people also like to have a battery charger.
there are, you just can't see them.
It's just your growing awareness.
I've got your two towers...right here.
Subway alrms setting off chemotherapy patients?
In America, we are liking your work.
IE won't solve anything! As for that gaping hole they left in the new IE and Outlook.....fuck you Billy!
Question: Eating Poop & housetraining Woes
We have a female cairn terrier, 3 months old and she has a terrible habit for eating poop. I have tried adding MSG to her food-pineapple and other items that I have pulled off the net. So far nothing has worked. We are having a terrible time housetraining her and when we take her outside she hunts for poop to eat and comes in to do her stuff and not always on paper my carpet need help desperately.
What We Think:
Eating poop, unfortunately, is a common problem in some dogs. There are a few products on the market under different names that when mixed with the dog's food it is supposed to make the poop taste bad (as if it doesn't already). One product is named "For-bid" but there are also others that you can try. Ask at your local pet supply store. Also, make sure your puppy is eating a balanced diet. A dog's feces, along with waste, can contain food as well. Your puppy may be seeking out poop as a nutritional source or simply a snack. Be sure you are feeding her a vet-recommended brand of puppy food; if you already are, consider trying another brand as every dog is different.
Also, be sure to pick up ALL the poop outside that you can (including her own) to give her little opportunity to eat it. And start teaching your puppy the "Leave It" command so when she leaves the poop alone, or you pull her away, you can praise her for doing the command correctly. As far as housetraining goes, if you haven't already, be sure to read the Puppy Poop article. As it explains in the article, your puppy must receive consistent praise for peeing and pooping outside, only then will she begin to understand what behavior you want from her. Having newspapers in the house usually confuses things even more, although she has a preference for carpet; she is smart as carpet is much more porous than newspaper! Follow the steps in the Puppy Poop article and after a few months of consistency and praise, she should be getting the hang of things.
What a rush! I mean, with your balls trapped in a steel ring suspending you two feet off the floor, who would let one go all over themselves, right?
Shit, from the sounds of it, you've partaken in this kinky little exercise. How did you like it? Did you cum? Did you come back for more. I bet you did, didn't you.
Now you're posting AC so no one will know how homo-erotic you are. Brilliant, you faggot!
hello, here is what I want to buy. please scan the bar code. take my credit card number and use it to pay for bar code item. the bank has my information so you may forward all of my purchase information to proper authorities. thank you bar code!
hello! I bought condoms today = the government knows I am going to have sex some time soon. thank you bar code!
hello! I did not buy a gun from a dealership. I didn't buy a gun at all, in fact. but if I bought one from an illegal arms dealer, I'm sure when he scans his bar code at the cash register, and I pay for it with my credit card, this information will be forwarded. thank you bar code!
I bought shaving cream and toilet paper. thank you bar code!
I bet they know how many cigarettes I smoke! thank you bar code!
ultimate paranoia. don't buy any thing incriminating. thank you bar code!
Fresh out of Bayo Canyon for use in your next landscaping project. Beutify your home today! Call now, why supplies, or our workers last!