Sweet, replication was the main thing that MySQL supported and was easy to setup that PostgreSQL was lacking.
Now that PostgresQL has got good Open Source replication available, I expect to see a lot more people migrate to PostgreSQL. I'll be testing out PostgreSQL + Slony shortly.
In CA, you will notice 2 different kinds of speed limit signs. "Speed Limit", the maximum recommended speed in normal conditions, and "Maximum Speed", the maximum speed allowable, not to be exceeded.
Maximum speed limit signs will be either be 55mph-70mph signs. You exceed this speed by 1mph, and you can receive a citation. Basic speed law #22350 does not apply.
However, regarding a speed limit sign, these limits are set based on some set of traffic surveys and street conditions (I'm not sure of exactly how they get to this number). This is a case where the speed limit is a recommended maximum speed, but quite frequently it can be safe to exceed that speed, for example, light traffic, clear weather, etc. Unfortunately, because traffic citations, especially speeding violations are used primarily for revenue, not safety, it is not easy to fight these tickets in court.
Most people opt to take traffic school where you can avoid getting any permanent points on your record to avoid having insurance go up and pay the fine, rather than deal the hassle of going to court and getting off if you are lucky and catch the judge on a good day.
Additionally, not many people know that it can be legal to exceed the speed limit and don't know the basic speed law, so just pay the fine and move on.
I know that in Carlsbad, CA, there are a number of streets where police love to hide with their radar guns. These streets are streets where it is very easy to exceed the speed limit by 10 or more mph.
One street is a divided 2 lane road. On one side, you do get a lot of foot traffic and slow moving cars (right on the beach), so the 35mph speed limit makes sense. However, on the other side the speed limit is the same. But there is no parking on that side, and hardly ever any foot traffic because of that. There is nothing on that side of the street, just an open lagoon and power plant. But the same speed limit of 35mph exists, where a 40-45mph speed limit would probably be more appropriate. Police (often 5-6 of them on motor cycles) will hide behind some palm trees near the end of this road with their radar out, catching all the people cruising at 45mph and issuing citations. You will see 3-5 people pulled over at a time! I wonder how many of these people fight these tickets, and how many manage to win, but it certainly seems like an unfair situation.
Instead of only keeping a "yesterday" partition, use rsync to keep EVERY daily backup.
Even better, use BackupPC and get automated, compressed, incremental backups for your whole network. It's one of the best Open Source programs out there, and one of the best backup programs out there period. You can even backup your Windows machines, and you don't have to write any cronjobs or scripts!
Check out the San Diego freeway system. The I5 805 merge was just recently redone to improve traffic flow. It failed miserably.
Um, the merge is still under construction and won't be done until 2007. Besides, I would argue that the merge isn't the major cause conjestion there anyway, but conjestion north and south of the merge seems to cause conjestion to center around the merge during rush hour causing it to appear that the merge is the root of all the conjestion in the area.
Yes, RH8 should install, however RH8 was regarded as not being very stable, so I never tried it.
I was thinking about the issue some more, and thought that another workaround to get an already running machine upgraded would be to do a "live upgrade" where you upgrade RPMs manually, and/or let apt/yum handle any dependencies...
Let me guess, you've got an older Dell with the Intel 440GX chipset, and maybe even a DAC960 onboard?
There are many open bugs in RedHat's Bugzilla (just search all open bugs for 440GX) which prevent RedHat 9 and newer (FC1, and FC2 included) from being installed.
The last RedHat I have been able to get installed on those machines is RedHat 7.3. So far the only workaround I have found which should work is to rebuild the installation media with a rebuilt kernel which works with that chipset, but I have not yet tried it myself:
http://www.techonthenet.com/linux/fc2_update.htm
Apparently, the bug which affects the 440GX chipset is fixed in 2.6.7, so possibly FC3b1 will work where previous FCs have failed...
Oops! Good point, although I did say you should change/tmp to your actual porn directory. And hopefully you are not running this script as root, either, so you should not be able to remove it.
If you're smart, you'll have a dedicated porn login.;-)
Well, you've got two different replies, and two different answers.
One says: Use the number on your doorjamb or glovebox, the other says to use the maximum on the sidewall.
I say: Something in between!
For example with my WRX, the max on the sidewall of the RE-92s is 44psi. The recommended pressure from Subaru is 32psi.
It is a well known that running at the manufacturer's recommended pressure is designed to give a nice smooth ride and still be high enough to lose a bit of pressure and not have to worry about overheating the tire on the freeway.
Similarly, the tire manufacturer is going to design some amount of error into the maximum pressure that the tire can hold to account for in-accurate gauges and temperature changes. I have heard that the tires can hold over 90psi without blowing up, so you should have plenty of headroom.
However, what does happen at higher PSI ranges is that the tire will start to balloon, and you will find that the center of the tire will wear faster than the edges. At this point you will also start to lose traction. You will get better gas mileage, though!
I have found that in general running somewhere around 2/3's of the way between the car manufacturers recommended pressure and the tire manufacturers maximum pressure seems to be a good compromise between comfort, even tire wear and gas mileage. You should also experience an increase in overall traction and more even tire wear if you corner agressively as the lower pressure settings allow for excess flex in the sidewall loading up the outside edge of the tire. For me this means running about 40psi. I also like to run 1-2 psi lower in the rear, to account for the fact that in general there is less weight being carries by the rear tires, so this gets you a more consistent contact patch from front to rear of the car.
Of course, YMMV, and you may want to adjust your tire pressures to your vehicle, tires, driving style and road conditions.
Heh, I doubt that you are the only one! Now, there are thousands of Slashdotters out there creating.porn directories and moving their stash to keep them away from prying eyes! Here's a shell script to make life easier for you guys:
#!/bin/sh # Set oldporndir! oldporndir=/tmp mkdir ~/.porn chmod 0700 ~/.porn find $oldporndir -type f -exec mv {} ~/.porn rmdir $oldporndir
The problem then becomes: Who decides what is porn, what is not, and who makes sure that porn stays on the.porn domain? One person's definition of porn is not anothers. There's plenty of examples of this out there.
I measured the before and after current draw of my PCs and found that the Seasonic Super Tornado PSUs were not only much quieter than the PSUs I replaced, but also reduced current draw out of the wall about 15%. Additionally, they have a PF that I measured at.98 to.99. I used a Kill-A-Watt meter to measure before/after power draw and PF. The PSUs replaced were 2 generic PSUs and one Antec True Power unit.
The Seasonic PSUs are the most efficient that SilentPCReview has reviewed at about 80%. It makes sense that if you are building a new PC or need to replace a failed unit to spend the money on the Seasonic units. They are even competitively priced compared to other name brand PSUs as well.
Everyone else has pretty much covered it already, but here's a brief summary anyway.
RAID 1 with 2 drives or RAID 5 with 3 drives is the best way to go for your typical desktop depending on your storage needs.
What's important (as others have also mentioned) is that you also backup the data regularly. There's a great Open Source project called BackupPC which will let you backup just about any type of machine with network access (Unix and Windows machines) automatically. You can configure it to make as many incrementals as you want/need and it also uses compression and hard-links to save storage space. All you need is a Unix server to run BackupPC on with a decent amount of storage space. Restoring files with BackupPC is also a piece of cake, there's an easy to use web interface, or you can use the command line as well.
PVR systems based on old hardware will be slow. It doesn't matter if you throw a hardware encoder/decoder in your Duron 850, it will be slow. You want all the CPU and disk speed you can get. Trust me.
You must be doing something wrong if you can't get a Duron 850 running well, especially when using a hardware encoder. I'm even tempted to replace it with a Via Eden system so that it uses less power and runs quieter (no more CPU fan!)
I've got MythTV running great on a Duron 800, 512MB of memory and a 80GB 7200RPM drive with 2MB of cache and 2 PVR250s. Not exactly state of the hard hardware, but it works very well.
Now, if you were using software encoders, you would then need a lot of CPU power if you wanted to record multiple shows at the same time, especially if you want to record directly to MPEG4 format.
IMO the following is most important when building a MythTV system (not sure how much applies to other Open Source PVRs):
A decent amount of memory. 256MB is bare minimum for a combination frontend/backend system. 512MB is good.
Lots of hard-drive space. I thought that 80GB would be plenty, but every now and then I get a number of shows queued up and fill up the drive. 160GB would be better. The drive doesn't need to be fast, even the slowest drives are fast enough to stream multiple live video streams off of them. 5400 RPM drives suffice if they are big enough. More important is to put the right filesystem where you are storing your recordings. EXT3 is a lot slower than JFS or XFS when it comes to deleting large files, it takes 3-5 seconds on my system to delete multi-gigabyte files. JFS or XFS can delete large files almost instantly.
Have you ever changed your oil yourself and looked at it? 3k on dino oil really will turn the color pretty dark. That dark oil is contaminated and will not lubricate the engine as it should, leading to greater wear and earlier breakdown of the engine.
Just because an oil is dark, does NOT mean that it has no life left in it. Just because an oil looks new, does NOT mean that it can lubricate worth crap! If you based oil changes solely on when the oil turned dark, you would be changing the oil more often than 3k, except on the cleanest of engines.
An oil that turns dark quickly is a sign of a good oil, that means that is is trapping and holding soot and other contaminants in suspesion. Where any large particles can then be filtered out of the oil by the oil filter.
You are right, short trips and stop and go driving are hard on an oil because the car will be running rich, and this leads to fuel running past the rings and mixing into the oil. Gasoline is a very poor lubricant. This is one area where modern engines have a definite advantage over older engines as fuel injection does a wonderful job of running the engine as lean as possible limiting the amount of fuel dilution.
Even if you're running synthetic oil, I would not be so quick to trust any manufacturer who claims you can run 10k-15k between oil changes, unless you fall into the light-duty driving category of all highway cruising and moderate speeds. I've seen too many used oil analysis results from those engines where the oil has thickened way out of grade and wear metals are significantly elevated.
The only real way to know how well your engine is holding up under your driving conditions is to perform an oil analysis, sending your used oil off to a lab to measure wear metals and other characteristics of the oil.
If you're curious to learn more about oil and how to maximumize the performance of it and minimize the time between oil changes, I suggest that you head over to the BITOG forums where you will find a LOT of information on oils and cars.
Another interesting site is the Synthetic Oil Life Study where they are testing various synthetic oils to see how well they hold up long term.
(And as for numbers and symbols making passwords less crackable--admit it, how many of you use 1337speak to make up the number/symbol quota?) Doh, how did you know my password was 1337speak? I better change now that you've posted it on Slashdot!
No, they want more horsepower. Mileage is a distant 2nd or 3rd concern. When that Civic owner throws a prefab Greddy kit onto his B18, does he care that his mileage just went from 28 to 17 mpg? Not in the least.
I beg to differ. There's plenty of car nuts out there who want their cake and eat it, too. In fact, on the WRX a number of tuners build up efficiency maps which limit boost and maximize timing in order to increase fuel efficiency at the expense of power.
I'm planning on "chipping" my WRX, and I'm planning to make use of the fuel efficiency map frequently. It doesn't hurt that the standard power upgrade map will also boost mileage a bit (it leans out the fuel mixture a bit under certain load patterns which can also increase power compared to running too rich), but in the end the mileage you get depends on how heavy your right foot is.
To follow up a bit more on the parent, for the WRX there are a number of options out there for "rechipping".
One thing to keep in mind is that modern ECUs like the one in the WRX are quite advanced and are able to adjust for many things like fuel octane, temperature, altitude, etc, while trying to maintain maximum performance. However, very often they leave some performance on the table to leave a greater safety of margin. Generally, the number 1 enemy of an engine (especially a turbo charged engine) is detonation. Followed closely by that is running too rich. Detonation will physically break an engine by either cracking pistons and/or rings or flattening rod/crank bearings causing oil starvation and thrown rods. Running too rich allows too much fuel to wash by the cylinder rings which gets into the oil and fuel is a horrible lubricant. Too much fuel leads to high metal wear and eventually bearing failure and thrown rods. If you avoid these issues, modest power gains are available.
One method is to reprogram the ECU or reflash it. A couple of companies (ECUTEK and Cobb Tuning) have reverse engineered the ECU in the WRX so that they can reprogram it.
Another method is to plug in a piggy back ECU (TurboXS UTEC) which alters the stock ECU's outputs as the tuner desires.
One drawback is that with a piggy back unit overriding the ECU's control, you lose a lot of the nice safety features of the stock ECU like being able to adjust for current running conditions unless the piggy back unit implements those adjustments itself. The other drawback is that sometimes the ECU will say "WTF, the car isn't doing what I'm telling it to" and switch into limp mode thinking that something is drastically wrong.
Finally, another method is to completely replace the stock ECU with a unit designed to be programmable. A few examples of companies which make this is Link and Electromotive. The drawback of a replacement ECU is that often, they do not have all the features of the stock ECU which generally means that it's a lot more work to get a good initial tune, and there's a lot more work required to swap out your stock controls with the replacement.
Most tuners for the WRX have found that they are able to get another 25hp or so out of the stock engine (227hp) without significantly affecting engine reliability by slightly adjusting fuel, timing and boost levels. However, once you start doing further modifications (like replacing stock cats with high-flow units or more efficient intercoolers) you will be able to further tune the engine to take advantage advantage of the engine's improved breathability and detonation resistance. With a setup like that you can get another 25hp without any significant reduction in reliability assuming that the tuning was done properly.
I had something similar happen to me and my Subaru WRX while on Mount Soledad in La Jolla over a year ago. The keyless entry/alarm just wouldn't work when up on top of the mountain. Was a PITA as I didn't know how to disable the alarm after tripping it using the key to get back into the car and took me a while to figure out how to turn it off.
The keyless entry/alarm hasn't acted up since, but I also haven't visied the top of Mount Soledad since then, either. There is a good collection on antennas on the top of the mountain if you look in the background of the picture in the link above.
While Fedora still compiles with the i386 instruction set for maximum compatibility, they do optimize for the i686 cpus using the following compiler options: "-march=i386 -mcpu=i686".
I'd be interested to see if specifying -march=i586 resulted in any significant speed increase. I doubt it would be significant. For code which does appear to be sensitive to optimizations, they do provide -march=i686 compiled RPMs as well as i386, glibc is a good example, openssl is another.
If you want an OS totally optimized for your CPU, use Gentoo.
Of course, if you want, you can always recompile the SRPMs using the target of your choice as well.
If you've tried any of the great spam filters out there, you would have found out by now that they work great at filtering out the vast majority of spam. I use SpamAssassin. Others use PopFile. There's another half-dozen good Open Source spam filters out there which will get your email back. Maybe others can chime in with the filters they like.
Slashdot Mirror
Sweet, replication was the main thing that MySQL supported and was easy to setup that PostgreSQL was lacking.
Now that PostgresQL has got good Open Source replication available, I expect to see a lot more people migrate to PostgreSQL. I'll be testing out PostgreSQL + Slony shortly.
In CA, you will notice 2 different kinds of speed limit signs. "Speed Limit", the maximum recommended speed in normal conditions, and "Maximum Speed", the maximum speed allowable, not to be exceeded.
Maximum speed limit signs will be either be 55mph-70mph signs. You exceed this speed by 1mph, and you can receive a citation. Basic speed law #22350 does not apply.
However, regarding a speed limit sign, these limits are set based on some set of traffic surveys and street conditions (I'm not sure of exactly how they get to this number). This is a case where the speed limit is a recommended maximum speed, but quite frequently it can be safe to exceed that speed, for example, light traffic, clear weather, etc. Unfortunately, because traffic citations, especially speeding violations are used primarily for revenue, not safety, it is not easy to fight these tickets in court.
Most people opt to take traffic school where you can avoid getting any permanent points on your record to avoid having insurance go up and pay the fine, rather than deal the hassle of going to court and getting off if you are lucky and catch the judge on a good day.
Additionally, not many people know that it can be legal to exceed the speed limit and don't know the basic speed law, so just pay the fine and move on.
I know that in Carlsbad, CA, there are a number of streets where police love to hide with their radar guns. These streets are streets where it is very easy to exceed the speed limit by 10 or more mph.
One street is a divided 2 lane road. On one side, you do get a lot of foot traffic and slow moving cars (right on the beach), so the 35mph speed limit makes sense. However, on the other side the speed limit is the same. But there is no parking on that side, and hardly ever any foot traffic because of that. There is nothing on that side of the street, just an open lagoon and power plant. But the same speed limit of 35mph exists, where a 40-45mph speed limit would probably be more appropriate. Police (often 5-6 of them on motor cycles) will hide behind some palm trees near the end of this road with their radar out, catching all the people cruising at 45mph and issuing citations. You will see 3-5 people pulled over at a time! I wonder how many of these people fight these tickets, and how many manage to win, but it certainly seems like an unfair situation.
Yes, RH8 should install, however RH8 was regarded as not being very stable, so I never tried it.
I was thinking about the issue some more, and thought that another workaround to get an already running machine upgraded would be to do a "live upgrade" where you upgrade RPMs manually, and/or let apt/yum handle any dependencies...
Let me guess, you've got an older Dell with the Intel 440GX chipset, and maybe even a DAC960 onboard?
m
There are many open bugs in RedHat's Bugzilla (just search all open bugs for 440GX) which prevent RedHat 9 and newer (FC1, and FC2 included) from being installed.
The last RedHat I have been able to get installed on those machines is RedHat 7.3. So far the only workaround I have found which should work is to rebuild the installation media with a rebuilt kernel which works with that chipset, but I have not yet tried it myself:
http://www.techonthenet.com/linux/fc2_update.ht
Apparently, the bug which affects the 440GX chipset is fixed in 2.6.7, so possibly FC3b1 will work where previous FCs have failed...
Oops! Good point, although I did say you should change /tmp to your actual porn directory. And hopefully you are not running this script as root, either, so you should not be able to remove it.
;-)
If you're smart, you'll have a dedicated porn login.
Well, you've got two different replies, and two different answers.
One says: Use the number on your doorjamb or glovebox, the other says to use the maximum on the sidewall.
I say: Something in between!
For example with my WRX, the max on the sidewall of the RE-92s is 44psi. The recommended pressure from Subaru is 32psi.
It is a well known that running at the manufacturer's recommended pressure is designed to give a nice smooth ride and still be high enough to lose a bit of pressure and not have to worry about overheating the tire on the freeway.
Similarly, the tire manufacturer is going to design some amount of error into the maximum pressure that the tire can hold to account for in-accurate gauges and temperature changes. I have heard that the tires can hold over 90psi without blowing up, so you should have plenty of headroom.
However, what does happen at higher PSI ranges is that the tire will start to balloon, and you will find that the center of the tire will wear faster than the edges. At this point you will also start to lose traction. You will get better gas mileage, though!
I have found that in general running somewhere around 2/3's of the way between the car manufacturers recommended pressure and the tire manufacturers maximum pressure seems to be a good compromise between comfort, even tire wear and gas mileage. You should also experience an increase in overall traction and more even tire wear if you corner agressively as the lower pressure settings allow for excess flex in the sidewall loading up the outside edge of the tire. For me this means running about 40psi. I also like to run 1-2 psi lower in the rear, to account for the fact that in general there is less weight being carries by the rear tires, so this gets you a more consistent contact patch from front to rear of the car.
Of course, YMMV, and you may want to adjust your tire pressures to your vehicle, tires, driving style and road conditions.
The problem then becomes: Who decides what is porn, what is not, and who makes sure that porn stays on the .porn domain? One person's definition of porn is not anothers. There's plenty of examples of this out there.
So how can I tell if I happenned to get one of the CDs that has the auto-install DRM "feature" on it? And how can I remove it?
I was on a quest to quiet down the PCs I've got, and came across the Seasonic Super Tornado Review over at SilentPCReview.
.98 to .99. I used a Kill-A-Watt meter to measure before/after power draw and PF. The PSUs replaced were 2 generic PSUs and one Antec True Power unit.
I measured the before and after current draw of my PCs and found that the Seasonic Super Tornado PSUs were not only much quieter than the PSUs I replaced, but also reduced current draw out of the wall about 15%. Additionally, they have a PF that I measured at
The Seasonic PSUs are the most efficient that SilentPCReview has reviewed at about 80%. It makes sense that if you are building a new PC or need to replace a failed unit to spend the money on the Seasonic units. They are even competitively priced compared to other name brand PSUs as well.
Everyone else has pretty much covered it already, but here's a brief summary anyway.
RAID 1 with 2 drives or RAID 5 with 3 drives is the best way to go for your typical desktop depending on your storage needs.
What's important (as others have also mentioned) is that you also backup the data regularly. There's a great Open Source project called BackupPC which will let you backup just about any type of machine with network access (Unix and Windows machines) automatically. You can configure it to make as many incrementals as you want/need and it also uses compression and hard-links to save storage space. All you need is a Unix server to run BackupPC on with a decent amount of storage space. Restoring files with BackupPC is also a piece of cake, there's an easy to use web interface, or you can use the command line as well.
I've got MythTV running great on a Duron 800, 512MB of memory and a 80GB 7200RPM drive with 2MB of cache and 2 PVR250s. Not exactly state of the hard hardware, but it works very well.
Now, if you were using software encoders, you would then need a lot of CPU power if you wanted to record multiple shows at the same time, especially if you want to record directly to MPEG4 format.
IMO the following is most important when building a MythTV system (not sure how much applies to other Open Source PVRs):
A decent amount of memory. 256MB is bare minimum for a combination frontend/backend system. 512MB is good.
Lots of hard-drive space. I thought that 80GB would be plenty, but every now and then I get a number of shows queued up and fill up the drive. 160GB would be better. The drive doesn't need to be fast, even the slowest drives are fast enough to stream multiple live video streams off of them. 5400 RPM drives suffice if they are big enough. More important is to put the right filesystem where you are storing your recordings. EXT3 is a lot slower than JFS or XFS when it comes to deleting large files, it takes 3-5 seconds on my system to delete multi-gigabyte files. JFS or XFS can delete large files almost instantly.
Have you ever changed your oil yourself and looked at it? 3k on dino oil really will turn the color pretty dark. That dark oil is contaminated and will not lubricate the engine as it should, leading to greater wear and earlier breakdown of the engine.
Just because an oil is dark, does NOT mean that it has no life left in it. Just because an oil looks new, does NOT mean that it can lubricate worth crap! If you based oil changes solely on when the oil turned dark, you would be changing the oil more often than 3k, except on the cleanest of engines.
An oil that turns dark quickly is a sign of a good oil, that means that is is trapping and holding soot and other contaminants in suspesion. Where any large particles can then be filtered out of the oil by the oil filter.
You are right, short trips and stop and go driving are hard on an oil because the car will be running rich, and this leads to fuel running past the rings and mixing into the oil. Gasoline is a very poor lubricant. This is one area where modern engines have a definite advantage over older engines as fuel injection does a wonderful job of running the engine as lean as possible limiting the amount of fuel dilution.
Even if you're running synthetic oil, I would not be so quick to trust any manufacturer who claims you can run 10k-15k between oil changes, unless you fall into the light-duty driving category of all highway cruising and moderate speeds. I've seen too many used oil analysis results from those engines where the oil has thickened way out of grade and wear metals are significantly elevated.
The only real way to know how well your engine is holding up under your driving conditions is to perform an oil analysis, sending your used oil off to a lab to measure wear metals and other characteristics of the oil.
If you're curious to learn more about oil and how to maximumize the performance of it and minimize the time between oil changes, I suggest that you head over to the BITOG forums where you will find a LOT of information on oils and cars.
Another interesting site is the Synthetic Oil Life Study where they are testing various synthetic oils to see how well they hold up long term.
(And as for numbers and symbols making passwords less crackable--admit it, how many of you use 1337speak to make up the number/symbol quota?)
Doh, how did you know my password was 1337speak? I better change now that you've posted it on Slashdot!
I'm planning on "chipping" my WRX, and I'm planning to make use of the fuel efficiency map frequently. It doesn't hurt that the standard power upgrade map will also boost mileage a bit (it leans out the fuel mixture a bit under certain load patterns which can also increase power compared to running too rich), but in the end the mileage you get depends on how heavy your right foot is.
To follow up a bit more on the parent, for the WRX there are a number of options out there for "rechipping".
One thing to keep in mind is that modern ECUs like the one in the WRX are quite advanced and are able to adjust for many things like fuel octane, temperature, altitude, etc, while trying to maintain maximum performance. However, very often they leave some performance on the table to leave a greater safety of margin. Generally, the number 1 enemy of an engine (especially a turbo charged engine) is detonation. Followed closely by that is running too rich. Detonation will physically break an engine by either cracking pistons and/or rings or flattening rod/crank bearings causing oil starvation and thrown rods. Running too rich allows too much fuel to wash by the cylinder rings which gets into the oil and fuel is a horrible lubricant. Too much fuel leads to high metal wear and eventually bearing failure and thrown rods. If you avoid these issues, modest power gains are available.
One method is to reprogram the ECU or reflash it. A couple of companies (ECUTEK and Cobb Tuning) have reverse engineered the ECU in the WRX so that they can reprogram it.
Another method is to plug in a piggy back ECU (TurboXS UTEC) which alters the stock ECU's outputs as the tuner desires.
One drawback is that with a piggy back unit overriding the ECU's control, you lose a lot of the nice safety features of the stock ECU like being able to adjust for current running conditions unless the piggy back unit implements those adjustments itself. The other drawback is that sometimes the ECU will say "WTF, the car isn't doing what I'm telling it to" and switch into limp mode thinking that something is drastically wrong.
Finally, another method is to completely replace the stock ECU with a unit designed to be programmable. A few examples of companies which make this is Link and Electromotive. The drawback of a replacement ECU is that often, they do not have all the features of the stock ECU which generally means that it's a lot more work to get a good initial tune, and there's a lot more work required to swap out your stock controls with the replacement.
Most tuners for the WRX have found that they are able to get another 25hp or so out of the stock engine (227hp) without significantly affecting engine reliability by slightly adjusting fuel, timing and boost levels. However, once you start doing further modifications (like replacing stock cats with high-flow units or more efficient intercoolers) you will be able to further tune the engine to take advantage advantage of the engine's improved breathability and detonation resistance. With a setup like that you can get another 25hp without any significant reduction in reliability assuming that the tuning was done properly.
I had something similar happen to me and my Subaru WRX while on Mount Soledad in La Jolla over a year ago. The keyless entry/alarm just wouldn't work when up on top of the mountain. Was a PITA as I didn't know how to disable the alarm after tripping it using the key to get back into the car and took me a while to figure out how to turn it off.
The keyless entry/alarm hasn't acted up since, but I also haven't visied the top of Mount Soledad since then, either. There is a good collection on antennas on the top of the mountain if you look in the background of the picture in the link above.
While Fedora still compiles with the i386 instruction set for maximum compatibility, they do optimize for the i686 cpus using the following compiler options: "-march=i386 -mcpu=i686".
I'd be interested to see if specifying -march=i586 resulted in any significant speed increase. I doubt it would be significant. For code which does appear to be sensitive to optimizations, they do provide -march=i686 compiled RPMs as well as i386, glibc is a good example, openssl is another.
If you want an OS totally optimized for your CPU, use Gentoo.
Of course, if you want, you can always recompile the SRPMs using the target of your choice as well.
Post your address somewhere along with what screws you need and I'm sure that many people will mail you some of their extra screws at no charge.
Any self-respecting geek has a jar filled with hundreds of them on their desk.
I was going to say the same thing!
If you've tried any of the great spam filters out there, you would have found out by now that they work great at filtering out the vast majority of spam. I use SpamAssassin. Others use PopFile. There's another half-dozen good Open Source spam filters out there which will get your email back. Maybe others can chime in with the filters they like.
Um, yeah.
Fedora Legacy isn't quite up and running yet, but RedHat released errata RPMs for RedHat 7.x, 8.0 and 9. If you read the archives of the Fedora Legacy list, you will get a good idea of the state of the project.