That's all nice in theory, but is there any effort to preserve these higher frequencies in the recording? I would guess that in most cases, they are either intentionally or unintentionally filtered out at some point, and that's assuming that the equipment used to capture the music is even capable of capturing the high frequencies in the first place.
There's no way the 2.5 watts from the USB is going to drive a turntable, so an external power source is a given. Hopefully, nothing else in the turntable is using the USB power though - some devices will get the 5V they need off of the USB rather than use a DC-DC converter off of the usually higher voltage external power supply, as it's cheaper to do things that way.
As for your speakers, I would suggest a powered USB hub. Or one of those USB chargers like what Apple has for the iPod. Or if you have a spare 5V wallwart, just splice it into the power wire for your speakers.
I don't know what's worse. Mine has just 4 buttons. You can imagine how much fun it is to program without the manual. For bonus points the LCD backlight also doubles as a status indicator.
You might, at the very least, confirm that the fax was sent by the person who's phone number is listed as the sender. That information is pretty easy to spoof.
Get a manual transmission. Then remove the radio and let the wires dangle out of the dash. Absolutely don't leave anything visible in the car that might be worth stealing. That includes the $1.27 in change in the cup holders. It may even help to empty out the glove box and leave that open too. It may also help to get a less common model of car, as it's the most common cars that are the most desirable as it's easier to fence the parts. Also don't get a higher trim line, because once again the parts are more valuable, especially to the boy-racer types who like to try to make their low-end car look like a higher-end model.
If it has a HDMI, display port, a DVI connector it probably has a license for HDCP, from which Intel got paid. If it just have VGA-out, you might be okay, except that you'll only find nowadays that on the boards with the crappiest integrated video, which will probably be made by Intel anyway.
So far, I haven't seen AMD adopting some of Intel's more obnoxious market segmentation techniques, such as intentionally removing features on low-end CPUs like virtualization and ECC memory support, not to mention the multiple incompatible sockets.
It's going to be more like the budget CPU is $100, the nicer budget CPU is $125, but if you buy the budget CPU then upgrade it you get to pay $150.
Also, I fully expect Intel to screw you over with incompatible sockets to, so you can't just buy a better CPU a few years down the road for $50 and drop it in.
Exactly. It's going to be just like Microsoft's "Anytime" upgrades for Vista and 7, where the cost of a lower edition + upgrade is significantly higher than the cost of just the higher edition to begin with.
Presumably, it wouldn't be permanent as they would want make it so the faster speed could be re-enabled again if you wanted to start giving them money again.
Besides, a virus could, in theory, derate your CPU today by mucking around in your BIOS.
The way I see is that the early electric vehicles should be marketed to families with multiple vehicles, as a replacement for the smaller second car that is only used to commute to work and run errands. It's the perfect use case, as generally that vehicle does not make long trips, does not need to haul a lot of people and stuff, and has a predictable usage pattern meaning it can charge up when electricity is cheap. We'll worry about how to replace the main family vehicles, taxis, vans, trucks, work vehicles, etc later.
And while batteries are expensive, you do have to factor in the total cost of ownership here - electric motors are simple and reliable, and you don't have to worry about oil, coolant, oil pumps, water pumps, complicated transmissions, injectors, exhaust system, alternators, emissions systems, and everything else you get with a gasoline powered engine. A $5000 battery pack every 10 years suddenly doesn't look so bad to me. (though I do admit I'm not too impressed with current hybrid technology)
I've only used it once. Basically everything turns more or less to ash/soot and you can just wipe the oven clean when it's done. It works really well - I gave it a shot after trying to clean the oven first the hard way and not having much luck.
If you try it, I recommend doing it during the winter. The oven gives off a massive amount of heat for hours while it does its thing, and does a pretty good job of heating a 2 bedroom apartment.
Yeah, and that wasn't $350 in 2000. It wasn't until recently that laptops have come down in price, probably having a lot to do with the LCD screen being a lot cheaper. Even in 2000, used 486 laptops were still fetching a couple of hundred if they were in good condition (granted, a 486 could run Windows 98, but still...).
3) As far as the DMCA is concerned it doesn't matter how good or bad the encryption is, breaking it is still illegal. And the plan all along is to use the DMCA as the weapon, not the encryption itself.
It should also be noted that some HP's have IR capability built in. Some also have RS232 (with a non-standard connector). With the right cable it's not hard to get them on the internet, though they aren't powerful enough to do much more than telnet.
Well, most products in the store that are liquids are probably close enough to the density of water that you can simply treat 1 litre = 1 kg as a good enough approximation. Though I seriously doubt most people would know to do that.
Just like with drywall, buying from the lowest bidder can end costing you in the long run when the lowest bidder is from China. Fading should not be an issue with quality lights. However, I can see the scenario in that link coming true a few times before people learn their lesson.
There are light fixtures that are kind of like a cross between a regular fluorescent and a compact fluorescent. Basically, the bulb part looks like a compact fluorescent, but like a regular fluorescent the ballast is part of the light fixture and not the bulb. And they have different sockets to keep you from mixing the bulbs up with the regular kind. I actually put one in as a hall light - it's worked well so far and the bulb comes on at full brightness immediately. Also, since the ballast is separated from the bulb it doesn't get as hot and should, in theory, last a long time. So far I have not had to replace the bulb, so I'll have to see how that goes when the time comes.
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That's all nice in theory, but is there any effort to preserve these higher frequencies in the recording? I would guess that in most cases, they are either intentionally or unintentionally filtered out at some point, and that's assuming that the equipment used to capture the music is even capable of capturing the high frequencies in the first place.
Either that, or he's refering to cheap CD-R's, many of which are unreadable after several years.
Though in theory, assuming you never actually played it, I would expect a vinyl record to last longer than a CD in ideal storage conditions.
There's no way the 2.5 watts from the USB is going to drive a turntable, so an external power source is a given. Hopefully, nothing else in the turntable is using the USB power though - some devices will get the 5V they need off of the USB rather than use a DC-DC converter off of the usually higher voltage external power supply, as it's cheaper to do things that way.
As for your speakers, I would suggest a powered USB hub. Or one of those USB chargers like what Apple has for the iPod. Or if you have a spare 5V wallwart, just splice it into the power wire for your speakers.
C'mon! They're Toyota jokes. You just can't stop...
I don't know what's worse. Mine has just 4 buttons. You can imagine how much fun it is to program without the manual. For bonus points the LCD backlight also doubles as a status indicator.
Well, if they can no longer play that game it would explain why food prices have gone up so much the past few years.
You might, at the very least, confirm that the fax was sent by the person who's phone number is listed as the sender. That information is pretty easy to spoof.
Get a manual transmission. Then remove the radio and let the wires dangle out of the dash. Absolutely don't leave anything visible in the car that might be worth stealing. That includes the $1.27 in change in the cup holders. It may even help to empty out the glove box and leave that open too. It may also help to get a less common model of car, as it's the most common cars that are the most desirable as it's easier to fence the parts. Also don't get a higher trim line, because once again the parts are more valuable, especially to the boy-racer types who like to try to make their low-end car look like a higher-end model.
If it has a HDMI, display port, a DVI connector it probably has a license for HDCP, from which Intel got paid. If it just have VGA-out, you might be okay, except that you'll only find nowadays that on the boards with the crappiest integrated video, which will probably be made by Intel anyway.
So far, I haven't seen AMD adopting some of Intel's more obnoxious market segmentation techniques, such as intentionally removing features on low-end CPUs like virtualization and ECC memory support, not to mention the multiple incompatible sockets.
It's going to be more like the budget CPU is $100, the nicer budget CPU is $125, but if you buy the budget CPU then upgrade it you get to pay $150.
Also, I fully expect Intel to screw you over with incompatible sockets to, so you can't just buy a better CPU a few years down the road for $50 and drop it in.
Exactly. It's going to be just like Microsoft's "Anytime" upgrades for Vista and 7, where the cost of a lower edition + upgrade is significantly higher than the cost of just the higher edition to begin with.
You've been able to do that a long time. The only thing that changes is now you don't need a boat.
Exactly, just like how the Windows users had to pay Microsoft for SP2 on Windows XP...
Hey, wait a minute...
Presumably, it wouldn't be permanent as they would want make it so the faster speed could be re-enabled again if you wanted to start giving them money again.
Besides, a virus could, in theory, derate your CPU today by mucking around in your BIOS.
The way I see is that the early electric vehicles should be marketed to families with multiple vehicles, as a replacement for the smaller second car that is only used to commute to work and run errands. It's the perfect use case, as generally that vehicle does not make long trips, does not need to haul a lot of people and stuff, and has a predictable usage pattern meaning it can charge up when electricity is cheap. We'll worry about how to replace the main family vehicles, taxis, vans, trucks, work vehicles, etc later.
And while batteries are expensive, you do have to factor in the total cost of ownership here - electric motors are simple and reliable, and you don't have to worry about oil, coolant, oil pumps, water pumps, complicated transmissions, injectors, exhaust system, alternators, emissions systems, and everything else you get with a gasoline powered engine. A $5000 battery pack every 10 years suddenly doesn't look so bad to me. (though I do admit I'm not too impressed with current hybrid technology)
And here I thought it was "Guy Opens Ass To Show Everyone".
The local hardware store here has pick up trucks you can rent by the hour for the rare times you need to haul something big home. They also deliver.
I've only used it once. Basically everything turns more or less to ash/soot and you can just wipe the oven clean when it's done. It works really well - I gave it a shot after trying to clean the oven first the hard way and not having much luck.
If you try it, I recommend doing it during the winter. The oven gives off a massive amount of heat for hours while it does its thing, and does a pretty good job of heating a 2 bedroom apartment.
Yeah, and that wasn't $350 in 2000. It wasn't until recently that laptops have come down in price, probably having a lot to do with the LCD screen being a lot cheaper. Even in 2000, used 486 laptops were still fetching a couple of hundred if they were in good condition (granted, a 486 could run Windows 98, but still...).
3) As far as the DMCA is concerned it doesn't matter how good or bad the encryption is, breaking it is still illegal. And the plan all along is to use the DMCA as the weapon, not the encryption itself.
It should also be noted that some HP's have IR capability built in. Some also have RS232 (with a non-standard connector). With the right cable it's not hard to get them on the internet, though they aren't powerful enough to do much more than telnet.
Well, most products in the store that are liquids are probably close enough to the density of water that you can simply treat 1 litre = 1 kg as a good enough approximation. Though I seriously doubt most people would know to do that.
Just like with drywall, buying from the lowest bidder can end costing you in the long run when the lowest bidder is from China. Fading should not be an issue with quality lights. However, I can see the scenario in that link coming true a few times before people learn their lesson.
There are light fixtures that are kind of like a cross between a regular fluorescent and a compact fluorescent. Basically, the bulb part looks like a compact fluorescent, but like a regular fluorescent the ballast is part of the light fixture and not the bulb. And they have different sockets to keep you from mixing the bulbs up with the regular kind. I actually put one in as a hall light - it's worked well so far and the bulb comes on at full brightness immediately. Also, since the ballast is separated from the bulb it doesn't get as hot and should, in theory, last a long time. So far I have not had to replace the bulb, so I'll have to see how that goes when the time comes.