I liked your post until you stated this: "After all most hackers with the skill to pull off something like this are very unlikely to be Trump supporters." But I get your point.
Agreed, too many other choices. Of course the wife and I are going to the theater less because of the "actors" that can't seem to keep their mouth shut when it comes to politics. They have a right of free speech, blah, blah, blah, but I'm tired of listening to it. So we're voting with our feet.
is a load of crap. These are state machines, typically written in embedded C. There are typically current transformers that have a large winding ratio, even if the electronics/firmware screws up there is no back driving the power line. And no relays. This guy has been watching too much Hollywood.
yes, yes, yes. I am very near sighted (-8 diopters, very slight astigmatisms) and once I turned 40 I had trouble focusing close up (with my glasses or contacts) because of that age thing (stiffer corneas and weaker iris muscles). After a couple pairs of progressive bi-focal glasses I have gone to 2 sets of fixed glasses for most use: 1 pair at -8 for distance and 1 pair at -6 for "office" use (equivalent for you far-sighted people of +2). By biggest problem with bi-focal glasses is that I had to hold my head up to use them: I want to look straight ahead for computer work and general reading, and holding my head up hurts my neck.
I still use my older bi-focal glasses for around the house, in the yard, working on cars, etc.
Sometimes I'm caught with only my distance glasses when I want to read something close up, so I either pull the glasses away from my eyes or just look over them (or take them off, I can see perfectly at 4 to 6 inches).
And AR coatings: I have oily skin so I wash my glasses at least 2 times a day. The AR coating starts to flake off after about 2 years, I have stopped getting it. Unfortunately I had to go to a less refractive plastic because it was harder so that they wouldn't force the AR coating. But I can live with that. I've been seeing reflections all of my life.
Between fixed lenses and no AR coating, the costs for my glasses have dropped dramatically.
One of my clients made me get it to get paid, their accounting department was paying net 90 days and required all kinds of crazy insurance to get me paid through them. So paying with the department credit card was just easier. So when I setup the credit card account, they told me it would cost me 4.0%. Every month new and mysterious (to my account rep.) charges would show up: a fraction of a percent here, fixed fees there. He could never give me an explanation of what they all were, and they weren't consistent from what I could tell. I told them that those charges were ok with me as I was passing that along to my client, but it was hard to do that when I didn't know what I would expect (I was running around $10K a month through it for some other part time contractors and equipment). When the project was over, I couldn't cancel that account fast enough.
So I perfectly understand why some stores have a minimum charge or won't take credit at all, it's a big hassle and cost.
Welcome to ratings. The 500W rating means that the power cord and any input protection devices (fuses, circuit breakers) are sized for 500W. It might consume close to 500W under certain, brief periods.
Supposedly, the manufacturers are moving to do what Buick has done for a while: several panic presses on the button will shut down the engine. I wonder if THAT will make its way into the owner's manual (because Toyota failed to put that in my 2007 Avalon manual).
Yes, with Ford (I have a 2001 F150) you need 2 good keys to program a 3rd or more. But with only 1 key you have to take it to the dealer to get them programmed. Less than $100 but a pain. I now keep 2 spares.
yes, backups. And this will only work if I can easily turn the engine off, not like my 2007 Avalon that requires me to hold the button down for at least 4 second (you know, that thing that isn't in the owner's manual) once the car is running. Yes, there have been a couple of emergency situations where I needed to shut down the engine quickly.
And the Avalon key has failed me once, had to hack in a battery (they aren't an easy to find size) to get the car started to get to the store to get a new battery.
The local (Columbus, Ohio) Micro Center (from wiki: founded in Columbus, Ohio in 1979 by two former Radio Shack employees) has a much better selection of hobby stuff from my experience 2 weeks ago. And then there is Digikey, Mouser, Allied, etc., just a day or 2 away if you want to pay for the shipping (which sometimes makes up for the bloated Rat Shack pricing). I would never go to Rat Shack for a cell phone or satellite TV. Maybe batteries, but the Kroger next door had a better selection of coin cell Lithiums for odd sizes like what goes into my Toyota remote.
I think you meant to say "conversion from drum to disk". I do agree that your ABS comment, the unskilled need it. So I was unaware that racing used unboosted disk brakes, after some research they have to increase the mechanical advantage of the break pedal for that to work. What I was focused on was AS DESIGNED disk brake systems for passenger cars/trucks that must have the power boost. And this all comes back to Toyota's decision to not allow someone to easily turn off the engine when the controller has gone into the weeds.
I agree that drum brakes have their issues: fading, constant adjustment. But I can't agree with the rest of your arguments, based on my 41 years of driving experience and owning and working on over 20 vehicles: drum brakes, disc brakes, foreign and domestic (US).
I could be wrong, but you must have had drum brakes. Drum brakes work fine without power assist, they are too sensitive with power assist
(lots of surface area on the friction surfaces). I drove a 1970 Chevelle for many years with drum brakes and no power assist.
1. Modern disc brakes require a power booster, derived from the engine vacuum. I've driven a truck that had a failed power booster, it was extremely difficult to stop it at only 5 miles an hour backing out of the garage (I'm 5'11", 195 pounds, I am not a small guy).
2. At full throttle, the engine is NOT making vacuum, at least very little.
3. Without vacuum, there is no power brakes (after 3 or so pushed on the pedal).
That, my friends, is the problem.
By the way, I have a 2007 Toyota Avalon with this potential problem (accelerator by wire, shift by wire, pushbutton ON/OFF). They've reflashed the computer at least 2 times since this was first made public. The biggest flaw with the "system" is that there is nothing in the owner's manual that you have to keep the ON/OFF pushbutton held in for 4 seconds to stop the engine once you are moving. Toyota's reasoning was that stopping the engine would stop the power brakes (see #2 above), and you would lose power steering (you don't need power steering above 14mph). I've read that the industry is implementing what Buick has used for years: if several pushes of the ON/OFF pushbutton are tried, it will shut off the engine. That makes a whole lot more sense to me.
if you don't use it, declare it dead (like the Superbowl comment). I just used a 'scope today to verify that a PWM signal was really doing what it should on a PLC-based system. And I still do serious CAD work on either a desktop or laptop (connected to a real monitor, keyboard, mouse) because you just can't do it right on an i-whatever.
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due to regenerative braking, which is good for everything.
I liked your post until you stated this: "After all most hackers with the skill to pull off something like this are very unlikely to be Trump supporters." But I get your point.
amen
Agreed, too many other choices. Of course the wife and I are going to the theater less because of the "actors" that can't seem to keep their mouth shut when it comes to politics. They have a right of free speech, blah, blah, blah, but I'm tired of listening to it. So we're voting with our feet.
What kind of statement is that? Of course we do. And how does he propose to power all of these sensors? Silly person.
is a load of crap. These are state machines, typically written in embedded C. There are typically current transformers that have a large winding ratio, even if the electronics/firmware screws up there is no back driving the power line. And no relays. This guy has been watching too much Hollywood.
Why, oh why, do software engineers (or maybe just coders) allow external access to mission critical processes?
yes, yes, yes. I am very near sighted (-8 diopters, very slight astigmatisms) and once I turned 40 I had trouble focusing close up (with my glasses or contacts) because of that age thing (stiffer corneas and weaker iris muscles). After a couple pairs of progressive bi-focal glasses I have gone to 2 sets of fixed glasses for most use: 1 pair at -8 for distance and 1 pair at -6 for "office" use (equivalent for you far-sighted people of +2). By biggest problem with bi-focal glasses is that I had to hold my head up to use them: I want to look straight ahead for computer work and general reading, and holding my head up hurts my neck. I still use my older bi-focal glasses for around the house, in the yard, working on cars, etc.
Sometimes I'm caught with only my distance glasses when I want to read something close up, so I either pull the glasses away from my eyes or just look over them (or take them off, I can see perfectly at 4 to 6 inches).
And AR coatings: I have oily skin so I wash my glasses at least 2 times a day. The AR coating starts to flake off after about 2 years, I have stopped getting it. Unfortunately I had to go to a less refractive plastic because it was harder so that they wouldn't force the AR coating. But I can live with that. I've been seeing reflections all of my life.
Between fixed lenses and no AR coating, the costs for my glasses have dropped dramatically.
but will the volume get you to 11, not just 10?
that is more important.
One of my clients made me get it to get paid, their accounting department was paying net 90 days and required all kinds of crazy insurance to get me paid through them. So paying with the department credit card was just easier. So when I setup the credit card account, they told me it would cost me 4.0%. Every month new and mysterious (to my account rep.) charges would show up: a fraction of a percent here, fixed fees there. He could never give me an explanation of what they all were, and they weren't consistent from what I could tell. I told them that those charges were ok with me as I was passing that along to my client, but it was hard to do that when I didn't know what I would expect (I was running around $10K a month through it for some other part time contractors and equipment). When the project was over, I couldn't cancel that account fast enough.
So I perfectly understand why some stores have a minimum charge or won't take credit at all, it's a big hassle and cost.
Welcome to ratings. The 500W rating means that the power cord and any input protection devices (fuses, circuit breakers) are sized for 500W. It might consume close to 500W under certain, brief periods.
Supposedly, the manufacturers are moving to do what Buick has done for a while: several panic presses on the button will shut down the engine. I wonder if THAT will make its way into the owner's manual (because Toyota failed to put that in my 2007 Avalon manual).
Yes, with Ford (I have a 2001 F150) you need 2 good keys to program a 3rd or more. But with only 1 key you have to take it to the dealer to get them programmed. Less than $100 but a pain. I now keep 2 spares.
yes, backups. And this will only work if I can easily turn the engine off, not like my 2007 Avalon that requires me to hold the button down for at least 4 second (you know, that thing that isn't in the owner's manual) once the car is running. Yes, there have been a couple of emergency situations where I needed to shut down the engine quickly.
And the Avalon key has failed me once, had to hack in a battery (they aren't an easy to find size) to get the car started to get to the store to get a new battery.
acronyms, abbreviations, and initializations out of context are confusing.
The local (Columbus, Ohio) Micro Center (from wiki: founded in Columbus, Ohio in 1979 by two former Radio Shack employees) has a much better selection of hobby stuff from my experience 2 weeks ago. And then there is Digikey, Mouser, Allied, etc., just a day or 2 away if you want to pay for the shipping (which sometimes makes up for the bloated Rat Shack pricing).
I would never go to Rat Shack for a cell phone or satellite TV.
Maybe batteries, but the Kroger next door had a better selection of coin cell Lithiums for odd sizes like what goes into my Toyota remote.
I think you meant to say "conversion from drum to disk". I do agree that your ABS comment, the unskilled need it.
So I was unaware that racing used unboosted disk brakes, after some research they have to increase the mechanical advantage of the break pedal for that to work. What I was focused on was AS DESIGNED disk brake systems for passenger cars/trucks that must have the power boost. And this all comes back to Toyota's decision to not allow someone to easily turn off the engine when the controller has gone into the weeds.
I agree that drum brakes have their issues: fading, constant adjustment. But I can't agree with the rest of your arguments, based on my 41 years of driving experience and owning and working on over 20 vehicles: drum brakes, disc brakes, foreign and domestic (US).
I could be wrong, but you must have had drum brakes. Drum brakes work fine without power assist, they are too sensitive with power assist (lots of surface area on the friction surfaces). I drove a 1970 Chevelle for many years with drum brakes and no power assist.
Disc brakes are another matter.
that's the best posting I've read so far.
until you run out of vacuum if the pedal is pushed more than a couple of times....
1. Modern disc brakes require a power booster, derived from the engine vacuum. I've driven a truck that had a failed power booster, it was extremely difficult to stop it at only 5 miles an hour backing out of the garage (I'm 5'11", 195 pounds, I am not a small guy).
2. At full throttle, the engine is NOT making vacuum, at least very little.
3. Without vacuum, there is no power brakes (after 3 or so pushed on the pedal).
That, my friends, is the problem.
By the way, I have a 2007 Toyota Avalon with this potential problem (accelerator by wire, shift by wire, pushbutton ON/OFF). They've reflashed the computer at least 2 times since this was first made public. The biggest flaw with the "system" is that there is nothing in the owner's manual that you have to keep the ON/OFF pushbutton held in for 4 seconds to stop the engine once you are moving. Toyota's reasoning was that stopping the engine would stop the power brakes (see #2 above), and you would lose power steering (you don't need power steering above 14mph).
I've read that the industry is implementing what Buick has used for years: if several pushes of the ON/OFF pushbutton are tried, it will shut off the engine. That makes a whole lot more sense to me.
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if you don't use it, declare it dead (like the Superbowl comment). I just used a 'scope today to verify that a PWM signal was really doing what it should on a PLC-based system. And I still do serious CAD work on either a desktop or laptop (connected to a real monitor, keyboard, mouse) because you just can't do it right on an i-whatever.
and why airport runway lighting is moving to LEDs. It is very expensive to shut down a runway at a busy airport.