Re:Not surprising, and not bad.
on
RIP G4 PowerMac
·
· Score: 2, Informative
You really should read this entire thread; your comments have already been covered. However, I shall recap:
...if you buy a Mac today, it will be patched for all of the recent security bugs you have mentioned...
That wasn't the point. The point was that, regardless of how quickly the issues are resolved, they are issues that NEVER EXISTED in OS 9. There were no holes to plug, ever. It doesn't matter if the problems in OS X are gone now; they WERE present, ARE present on many machines still in use, and ARE NOT guaranteed to be fixed on machines currently being sold, as many were installed, and the boxes factory-sealed before the issues were resolved. I have personally received a brand-new machine that did NOT ship with the latest OS, and I was allowed a free upgrade because of it. Don't make the mistake of thinking that just because the software is available means it is always present. Of such assumptions are catastrophes made.
Even if login is on by default, how secure is OS 9 to an intruder who has physical access to the box? The user data can't be encrypted like it can in OS X.
Also incorrect, and covered by our earlier conversations. Pretty Good Privacy is one of many utilities publicly available that are capable of such encryption, and if memory serves, they are capable of much more intensive and secure encryption than OS X is. The only difference is whether or not it's "built-in" to the OS. Regardless, regulating physical access to a machine was not the type of security issues that I meant, and I've already clarified that.
What about someone who wants to share their home directory? Is OS 9 still more secure than the same user sharing files in OS X? I am willing to bet not.
See above.
Finally, this is a really lame discussion because with even the most minor and simple user intervention (i.e. one click system prefs like turning on the firewall, enabling automatic security updates, switching file secure on, etc.) OS X is by far more secure than OS 9 by all standards. OS 9 was completely unstable besides all of this... OS 9 is secure mostly because of obscurity. It is dated and therefore will lack modern operating system exploits.
By your argument a modern blender has a more secure computer inside because it lacks any sort of network interface! Face it, OS X is better than OS 9 in every single respect including security.
Wrong, wrong, WRONG! OS 9 HAS a network interface. Several, actually. And they were, and are secure. I challenge you to show me a way that, with or without a firewall installed, you can hack into Mac OS X. Found a few? Good! Now try to find one for OS 9. Not a vulnerability in an OS 9-compatible app, but in the OPERATING SYSTEM. No luck? There's a reason for that. It's called being secure, and it has been universally recognized. You can make all the arguments you want about how OS X has more services and therefore more vulnerabilities, but again, that was not my point. My point is that, without installing updates, without changing defaults, there's one box you can hack into, and one you can't. The one that's got vulnerabilities is OS X. It's as simple as that.
I PREFER OS X. I use it daily. I am not trying to start a holy war here. You can take it personally if you want, but I've backed my statements up with links, relevant data, and verifiable facts. I use OS X, the same as you. The difference is that I am not in denial about its shortcomings, however few, and that I'm open to education, should I be presented with a legitimate argument. Are you?
Re:Not surprising, and not bad.
on
RIP G4 PowerMac
·
· Score: 3, Informative
You're kind of talking apples and oranges. You're right that security is not limited to the front door, but it's not necessary to put a portcullis inside the door if you know the door is secure. If you're particularly worried about your files in OS 9, download PGP. But my point is that, unless you screw something up on your own or let others access your machine, you just didn't need that kind of support.
OS 9 didn't have a built-in firewall because OS 9 didn't have a bunch of services running that needed one. Even the built-in mini web server only served files out of a specific directory that most people never touched. Regardless, the firewall in OS X isn't on by default, and therein lies the problem. OS 9 didn't have any security issues (that I know of), that were a part of the operating system. As far as the I.E. security issue goes, that's a problem with an application, not with the operating system. In addition, it's a 3rd-party app, though it ships with the system.
Sure, Appleshare is INSTALLED by default, but it is not ENABLED by default. When you first install your OS, you are asked if you wish to have a Shared Folder, and you then have to go through the steps of creating it. Think of it this way: your house has a lock on the door, and is locked as a default. When you want to get into your house, you need to unlock the door. Now, you're able to unlock it and leave it unlocked, but that's a problem with the user, not with the door.
The point that I'm trying to make is that is was damn hard to get into an OS 9 box unless the user did something really dumb, like leave their password blank. If memory serves, you'd even get a warning if you did so. OS X has had a not insignificant number of security vulnerabilities that existed BY DEFAULT. That is, the box (assuming it was on and had a network connection) was insecure just sitting unused unless the user downloaded a patch. OS 9 did not have these vulnerabilities. It's that simple.
I'm not complaining about OS X; I'll never go back to OS 9 unless I need to run a classic app. I'm just pointing out a relevant fact: that OS 9 was inherently more secure by default than OS X, given recent security issues that have been brought to light. I'm also not advocating less security over more... but in this case it wasn't necessary, and to tell users that they need to keep adding more and more levels of security to a box that's already plenty secure is a waste of your time and theirs.
Re:Not surprising, and not bad.
on
RIP G4 PowerMac
·
· Score: 2, Interesting
I'm not referring to the usability of the system; I'm referring to the number of security holes found in OS X vs. the number found in OS 9. Only one of the examples you gave has anything to do with security, and that one only applies once someone has gained access to the machine in question. I'm referring to the ability to access and/or run code on a box with a basic system left to its defaults.
I'm not aware of a method for remotely executing malicious code in OS 9 unless the user/administrator opens up ports that are closed by default or installs/runs 3rd-party software. (Appleshare doesn't count, as it depends on the user/administrator A) enabling sharing and B) setting it up with no password.) While the number of these security instances is low in OS X, theydoexist.
Not surprising, and not bad.
on
RIP G4 PowerMac
·
· Score: 4, Insightful
When I first got my 17" Powerbook, I was dreading my inability to boot into OS 9. After the first couple of months, I stopped missing my OS 9 apps, having found better OS X replacements. Every once in a while, I'd accidentally launch a Classic app, but that was rarely an issue. The only problems I see with OS X now is that it's slightly less secure (though much more stable and powerful), and power users such as myself may run into a lack of available applications for specific tasks. (Rasterizing NOAA vector maps, for example.)
I imagine we'll hear a few people here and there complain about needing to migrate to OS X, but I think the pros for dropping G4s from the line outweigh the cons. Besides, I have a feeling that, unless they require very specific compatibiliy with a legacy app that's no longer available, they're going to be fine. Now we're going to see price drops increase on these suckers dramatically, and suddenly a bunch of students and other low-income folks be able to afford a machine that they didn't think possible for their budget. I'll bet DealMac will be listing some price slashing within a couple of days.
The "More" you get includes an 18-70mm (roughly equivalent to 35-100mm due to the size difference from 35mm that the CCD is) ED lens. Thus, you pay more for a "kit" than for the base camera body. Here is the D70 body alone, and as you can see it's only $999. (About $99 more than the Digital Rebel.)
The thing I liked about Nikon originally was that you can use almost any lens with almost any body from circa 1970 and later. However, I have since discovered (the hard way) that Nikon has intentionally engineered OUT the ability to use any manual-focus lens with the less expensive bodies. (F100 and F5 support them, D1 and D2 series do as well, but D70 and D100 do NOT.) You can still *use* the lens, but the in-camera metering system will not function unless the lens has electronics, i.e. is auto-focus.
One item worth mentioning is that, as far as both myself and a Nikon tech could find, the only reason you might want the D100 over the D70 is that there are a few more accessories available for the D100, such as an extended battery pack that also functions as a vertical grip. However, the D70 seems like a great value (compared to everything else available), and if you don't need the other accessories (or want a cheaper lens), you can get it separately.
"SLR" stands for Single Lens Reflex. This means that light passes through the lens, off a mirror and/or CCD, and into your eye. It means that there is no parralax error due to you and the camera seeing your subject from different angles. It doesn't necessarily mean you have the ability to change lenses, nor does it mean it's a "professional grade" camera. It doesn't even have to be much more complicated than your average point-and-shoot, though I'm assuming you want to be able to grow as you learn.
In the lower class of Digital SLR bodies with interchangeable lenses, you've got the Nikon D70 and D100, the Canon Digital Rebel, and a few cameras by Sigma and Fuji. These cameras (bodies with interchangeable lenses) will allow you the most flexibility, options, and quality. However, they are also much more expensive, starting at about the $1000 mark. For the moment, I'll assume this is the area you're looking at.
First off, the Canon Digital Rebel is not the only camera in its class. Nikon just released the D70, which seems to kick the Rebel's ass. I spoke to Nikon Digital Support (800-645-6689), and they said the memory buffer was so fast that you could pretty much keep shooting continuously until you ran out of space. Compared to older models that would only do "burst mode" for up to five seconds, that's quite a feat. The D70 is only about 3 frames/second, but the D2H can do 8 frames/second for five seconds before the buffer gets full. Of course, the D2H is about $3K, but I can dream.;-)
Second, you are not limited to (and may not want) a camera with interchangable lenses. The Nikon Coolpix 5700 and 8700 are pretty decent (the latter being 8 megapixels!), and the Canon PowerShot Pro1, G5, and S1 are also options. One definite advantage the cameras without interchangable lenses have is that they are going to be much smaller and lighter.
As per several recommendations already posted, definitely check out DPReview. Great site, lots of info, full testing, sample shots, menus and interfaces, etc. Think about what your priorities are. How high of a resolution do you need? 6 megapixels is plenty for an 8x10. (4 can actually get you by.) If you aren't printing anything larger than that, you're fine. Do you care if there's a proprietary battery, or do you need the flexibility of "standard"-sized batteries? (AA, AAA, etc.) Do you have a preference for media type? (I prefer CompactFlash, as it tends to give the best cost/size ratio, and the card size options are larger.) Do you need lens interchangeability? Do you want it? Regardless of what you want *right now*, where do you want to take your photography eventually? Make sure your camera choice now will not limit your goals later.
Personally, I'd lean more towards the larger SLR bodies with interchangeable lenses. They're bigger, heavier, and *can be* more expensive... though this is by no means true any more. However, the options you have are incredible. Of course, you may well just be leaving the camera in automatic mode all the time, which makes those options useless, overpriced oversized, etc. However, if you *want* those options later... you may not have to "upgrade" anything other than your lens options. Now that
Ala Carte cable pricing has been around for years, at least in California. There was one of those fun "within ten years" laws that required cable companies to allow subscribers to purchase any single channel separately from the standard lineup. Of course, it didn't specify prices... so naturally, the cable companies have no reason to price it reasonably. (Most individual channels were between $10-15.) I don't recall the particular bill/mandate in question, but I remember bothering Comcast about it, just for fun.:-)
Most carriers already have yourphonenumber@carrier.com set up for text messaging, and most of the ones who don't have forms that are easy to hack and use yourself. (I've done it before, for specific clients to reach me.)
Step 1: Download entire list of available numbers.
Step 2: Sort list into sublists based on carrier, if available.
Step 3: Write a <20 line script to send your "important message" to yourphonenumber@carrier.com.
Step 4: Ignore the rule in Step 3, and add another 5-10 lines of code to make sure your spam goes to yourphonenumber@everycarrier.com, just to be sure.
Step 5: Profit! (Via your spam clients.)
Yes, report spammers! But don't expect them all to stop. Most of the spam we all get these days isn't legal, but it still comes.
Try reading my post again. I've taken the opposite stance that you seem to think I have.
And what about athletics?
on
Nano Body Building
·
· Score: 3, Interesting
Around 2025, you'll pay $1,000 a year for a nanopill that will extend your life by suppressing heart attacks, diabetes and other diseases. Other scientists say that nanotechnology will be used to build synthetic bone and tissue...
In other news, a similar pill allowing for massive increases in strength and muscle mass via constant electric stimulation was banned for use in most public sporting events, though several athletes have been caught in a massive sting operation. However, due to newly-released self-destructive nanobots contained in the pill, it has become very difficult to track the use of such mechanisms.
Seriously, while the potential benefits from such technology will, in my opinion, greatly outweigh the dangers... I can see the potential for some pretty heavy "fairness" implications coming up. We'll see...
This is precisely why I'll only use a credit card.
Banks and credit card (at least, all of those that I've dealt with) seem to take a very dim view of fraud. I've NEVER had a problem filing a dispute, and getting my money back. I've had unauthorized charges, defective products/equipment that the vendor would not accept for a return, items that failed to live up to their description, and services offered and paid for that were not adequately provided. In every one of these instances, I've been able to successfully get my money back.
Don't pay via any other method than a credit card. Don't use a check; it's notoriously difficult to get money back in the case of check fraud. Using a postal money order depends on your ability to both A) find the seller and B) find someone at the post office who's interested in following it up. DO NOT use a service like Western Union; this is one of the easiest ways for sellers to get your money and just disappear.
Paypal is something of a toss-up. I've asked my bank, and they said that they had no problem disputing a charge with Paypal if an item was sold fraudulently. I have not needed to test this yet, but here are my concerns: First, Paypal may claim that my agreement is with them and not the seller, and that they have fulfilled their part of the bargain: to deliver my money to the seller. I don't know how well that argument would hold up, but I don't relish the idea of having to argue it. I think I'd win, but it woudn't be fun. Second, Paypal may just choose to write off the loss, and send my account to a collection agency, again citing their responsibilities, and the terms and conditions they list on their site. Collection agencies are MUCH harder to argue with, and legally, Paypal may very well be correct. In general, I only use Paypal for items with a relatively small value/selling price.
In just about any instance, using a credit card is better at protecting your interests. There are no guarantees, but here's how the Visa system works:
Buyer gives Seller their credit card. Seller runs the card through Processor. (Whomever is processing their charges for them) This can be a bank or a third-party processor, but usually it's the latter, unless it's a larger company with their own merchant account with a financial institution. Third-party processors are usually a cheaper option for companies or sellers with lower sales numbers. Anyway, Seller gives Processor Buyer's credit card info. Processor runs the card through the Visa system and if it returns an authorization, either immediately deposits the money into Seller's account, or sends them a biweekly/monthly check, depending on their agreement. The Visa system does a test with Buyer's credit card backer (their bank, CC company, etc.) to make sure the funds are available. This is not actually a charge; it's called an "authorization", and will drop off in a few days to a week. The actual charge (called a "posted" charge) comes through anywhere from the same day to a few weeks later, though usually it takes 2-3 days, and again must be initiated by Seller's financial institution, though this is usually automatic.
For a dispute, Buyer's financial institution tells Visa International that the charge was fraudulent, or services were not provided, or whatever. Visa goes to Seller's financial institution and asks for proof that the charge was legit, and Seller's financial institution forwards this request to Seller. This is often quite difficult for Seller, if they do not have your signature. That's the reason most companies require so much verification over the phone/web. If Seller cannot demonstrate that they have provided all products/services promised, the charge is reversed. This is called a "chargeback", and usually costs Seller's financial institution (and thus, Seller), a fee. Most sellers would rather just process the return than get a chargeback, both because of the fee and because it's a black mark on their record. I'm not sure who
It's quite simple, really. The glass container in which the corn starch is stored resonates perfectly at 120Hz. Had the researchers used a difference thickness, weight or purity of glass, the required frequency would be different, though far less stable. What they have done, in effect, is open a very small gateway into a sub-level dimension. It is fortunate that they did not accelerate the container to a rate generating more force, which would have caused the hole to open larger; they might have inadvertently unleashed one of these.
Many die-hards out there will undoubtedly tell you that it's not the camera; it's the photographer. Thus, a waterproof point-and-shoot will work fun. That said, it's much more of a pain in the ass to try and figure out how the point-and-shoot will react... and you don't often see those die-hard professionals using point-and-shoots, anyway.
I'm assuming that by nature of the fact that you posted this question, you're concerned with your shots coming out well, so I'll ignore the disposables for now. Your next (and in my opinion, cheapest/easiest) option would be to use a small digital camera that you already have, or buy one that you'll be able to use later. Then get a waterproof case for it. You can get these in several styles.
This one, at $45 will let you shoot while it's in the case, and is not camera-specific. This type is camera specific and is a better choice, though considerably more expensive. ($100-$400, depending on the make/model of camera.) Pelican makes a series called the "Micro Case Series", which you also might want to take a look at. They're cheaper than the ones you can use the camera in ($10-$20), but will only keep the camera waterproof when it's in them.
However, since you mentioned that you're expecting floods with little warning, the last option is probably not the best. I'd recommend the first if you're on a budget, or the second if you're not. I use the third when sailing, but I usually have fair warning before conditions arise that I'll need to watch for. It sounds like you won't.
You can also get digital cameras that are inherently waterproof, like this one, and this one. However, I'd recommend against these, because it sounds like you only need it for this trip. I'd get a camera you can use normally, and a case for situations like these.
This sounds vaguely like the dream solution for developers. The article says:
"It runs in parallel with other areas of the processor, effectively becoming a fully reconfigurable co-processor, and can be reprogrammed for new instructions at any time during operation."
Does that mean it can handly booting multiple OSes simutaniously? If so, how long before someone writes an app that bridges multiple OSes, allowing the equivalent of emulation, without the emulation? I don't know about the rest of you, but the potential of this chip sounds like a dream come true. And at $35-$100 per chip... it's cheaper than the processor for most systems anyway.
Don't use the watch. You'll smack it against something, and then you're screwed. Ditto for a generic USB flash drive, unless you're sure it's bulletproof. Get something reliable, or don't get anything. If you want to be sure you're covered, buy three of whatever it is. Keep one handy, one in a fireproof safe/lockbox on the premises, and one at home. If your only hardware key gets hosed, so do you.
Oh, and KISS. You're right; the cardkey isn't practical, and not just because it'd be difficult/expensive to build. It would probably also be something prohibitively difficult to troubleshoot, should you have problems later. Then you have to call a specialist, and hope he's A) cheap and B) can figure out how to solve your custom-built (and therefore, proprietary) hardware problem. You're probably on the right track with small, removable hardware. Just make sure it's also reliable, or it's useless.
$2000 for a T1 is extortion, and it's unnecessary
on
Looking to Move from EV1?
·
· Score: 2, Insightful
Your local telco should be able to provide you with a T1 for roughly $600-700 per month, although it is not uncommon to see them priced at $1,000-1,500. Resellers can sometimes drop below that. Of course, your initial cost for equipment will probably run your first month into the thousands, so a T1 might not be the best option.
I have several clients who own and operate their own web servers using nothing more complicated than an SDSL line, a router, and a dedicated Mac or PC. (DO NOT plan on using your server as your desktop machine!) This is slightly more expensive ($70-200 per month or more, depending on bandwidth), but generally includes one or more static IPs, and willingness to let you run anything you want, so long as it's legal. Call all of your local DSL providers for pricing, terms, and availability, or check with DSL reports to see who's in your area and what people say about them.
Of course, if you're concerned about costs and reliability, just stick with cable and use a host. $6 a month isn't much, and it's well worth not having the same headaches as running a server. Almost no cheap ADSL or cable provider will allow you to run a server; that's the reason they're so inexpensive. If you run a server, their bandwidth costs go up.
I must say that I'm very surprised by this response. I've had an extraordinarily positive experience with them, particularly BECAUSE of their anti-spam policy. They are very serious about complaints, but when I filed one, were definitely very careful about not arbitrarily shutting the spammer down just because *I said* they were a spammer. They contacted the spammer first, went back and forth with them and myself for a few days, and then shut them down when they would not stop.
Based on my experience from the other side of the equation, you should have been contacted first. I'm surprised that you weren't. I would suggest contacting the President, Bob Parsons' office. When I called, I was told that he kept his number fairly easy to access because he prefers to be more hands-on and accessible to customers. I'm sure that he doesn't take the calls personally (I got voicemail when I called), but was told later that the issue had been referred by him personally to the abuse dept manager, who called me back.
The " Office of The President" number is (480) 505-8828, and the e-mail address is president@godaddy.com. Give 'em a call, and a chance. Everyone has given some variation of "you get what you pay for", but this customer has gotten far more than that in the past.
What to do in California
on
Beyond Pay?
·
· Score: 4, Informative
I was wondering if Slashdot readers have encountered harassment in the workplace, and how they have dealt with it. In particular, when working for technology-based companies. Examples of this include the company forcing employees to put in extra (unpaid) hours, with the implicit/explicit threat of loosing the job if they don't, to actual personal harassment in the work place by management staff. My experience is that even in cases where the employee is completely right, it is impossible for her to win the case, given current employment law.
Okay, since you didn't specify where you are, I'm going to give you advice based on California law. As always, you should consult a lawyer. Fortunately, California has one available to you for free. It's called the Commission for Labor Standards Enforcement. Their job is to assist employees who are getting screwed by their employers. They will give you: advise, handouts that explain the laws that affect you, and assistance in filing a claim. In San Francisco, they're at 455 Golden Gate, across from the federal building, on the 8th floor. You can also call them at (415) 703-5300... but don't bother if you're outside of California. Your state probably has something similar; check it out.
Requiring you to work overtime is, more or less, legal. Threatening to fire you if you don't work the way they want you to... well, sorry Bub, it's at-will employment, unless you've got a contract that states otherwise. Threatening to fire you is not harassment, unless it degenerates to insults or something similar. From their point of view, you're not doing what the job "requires". Think of it this way: if you were late repeatedly, they'd be well within their rights to threaten to fire you if you didn't shape up, right? There is some good news, though:
Overtime
If you are salaried (exempt from eligibility for overtime), they don't have to pay anything extra over your normal salary. If you're hourly (non-exempt from eligibility for overtime), they do. I'll get into that in more detail shortly. As far as overtime is concerned, you're owed normal pay for the first 8 hours worked in a single day, 1.5 times normal pay for between 8 and 12 hours in a single day, and 2 times normal pay for anything above 12 hours in a single day. However, I believe there is some legislation in there that if the total hours worked in a week is less than 40, you are no longer eligible for overtime. This may vary from industry to industry (for example, the entertainment industry has different rules from the food industry, which has different rules from... you get the picture. Check with the labor Commission to find out the rules regarding overtime in your industry. But if it's overtime beyond 40 hours in a week, you shouldn't need to worry about that.
Are you salaried? Legally?
There are a bunch of rules regarding who is salaried and who is not. Again, check with the Labor Commission for specifics, but here's the short version: If you aren't in a managerial or supervisory position (i.e. bossing anyone else around), you're not salaried. There are other requirements, such as pay rate, etc... but if you aren't a boss, they have to pay you hourly, unless you're making a bunch ($45/hour plus, I think) of money. Regardless of what your employer says you are or are not, you aren't legally salaried unless you meet those requirements. Let's assume that you aren't legally salaried for now. If this is the case, and they require you to work, they have to pay you. The law is worded like this: If an employer "requires or allows" an employee to work, they must compensate them for it. This means that you can go ahead and work the overtime, track it, and get them for it later.
Filing a claim
Well, here's some more good news. In my experience, the burden of proof is on the employer to prove that you didn't work the hours in question, rather than you to prove that you did. That doe
Well, here's what's in the cavern I call a backpack:
A Mini-Mouse
I don't know about the rest of you, but for me a button pointer or trackpad just can't beat the feel of a mouse. MacAlly makes a niftly little mouse called the iOptiJr, which is just the smaller version of the iSweetNet. Nice and small, thus very precise; two buttons, wheel button, and programmable, and it's Mac/PC compatible. But... you'll have to get used to it being so small. I think other mice are big and bulky by comparison now, but that's because I got used to this one. You may need to install drivers, depending on your machine. You can get a wireless version, but then you have to worry about batteries. Optical is WAY better than your basic mechanical ball... unless you're using it on the surface of your laptop, or another shiny/sparkly surface. Think ahead.
A Mini USB Hub
Here's a slick one by IOGear. This has proved useful occasionally, but I haven't used it in over six months. Buy at your discretion. Mine (Not the IOGear one; a different brand) came with a cable that was split into two USB plugs; one to provide basic functionality, and one to provide added power, so you could use more power-hungry devices (like external USB floppy drives, scanners, etc.) without needing to plug the hub into the wall. But... this can drain the power of your laptop if you aren't careful.
A Wireless Network Card
If your machine doesn't ship with one (or with functionality on the motherboard), buy yourself an 802.11g PCMCIA card. They're backwards compatible with 802.11b, and network access (copying files, etc.) is up to five times faster. However, this won't matter for internet access unless your sitting behind a T3. If you aren't planning on networking large files EVER, than spend half as much on 802.11b. Definitely get one though, because most internet cafes and hotspots are swithcing to wireless-only access, if they haven't already.
A Portable Flatbed Scanner
Obviously, this'll only matter if you need one. But I've found Canon's LIDE series (I've got the LIDE 30)to be a nice addition to my bag. Good quality, fast, small (same footprint as my 17-inch powerbook, and only 1.5 inches think!), and it's powered by the USB cable!
A Webcam
there are about a billion and a half of these out there. Think about what you're actually going to use it for, if anything. Don't spend extra because it's detachable and can take still photos. You're better off buying a digital camera. I've never needed one, but you might.
A Bluetooth Adapter PCMCIA Card or USB dongle.
This may be a non-issue for you, but if you have or think you might get any bluetooth devices (such as a wireless mouse or Bluetooth-enable PDA), this could well be worth the money. Again, it may already be on your motherboard.
Cables! (Oh, and a cable bag.)
Okay, one USB cable, normal-sized, and one of the mini-plugged ones, for digital cameras and other devices. Although... I've never needed to use this. (I try to stay as modular as possible, and use things that work with more standardized cables, etc.) A firewire 6-pin to 6-pin (for large devices such as drives), and a 6-pin to 4-pin, for smaller devices such as DV-camcorders. Other cables (such as a USB light, A/V and monitor cables, etc.) are up to you.
A Digital Camera
Obviously, not a necessity for a laptop user, but usually pretty handy if you don't have one. Buy one that uses Compact Flash (cheapest memory, MB/dollar), and AA batteries. Buy rechargables, highest capacity you can find... usually around 1800-2200 mA. Oh, and you can get a great 30-minute charger by Energizer for about $40 at Best Bu
There is no conflict of interest here. I'm sure that Microsoft has instructed Mr. Wallis as to exactly what his interests should be. Besides, it's not like this is news or anything.;-)
The fact that the data went through multiple levels of subcontractors doesn't bother me, so long as each has signed the appropriate waivers and so long as each have been checked out enough to be trusted with the data. But there's no excuse for leaving proprietary and/or sensitive information out there, unprotected.
Password-protecting an entire directory is trivial. 20 seconds to a seasoned user, or a few minutes in a web interface for a newbie. This info wasn't just accidentally left unprotected; it was intentionally posted to a public-facing site, in an attempt to attract programming assistance. This, on it's own, could easily be called criminally negligent. But after being warned of the potential consequences and posting it again the following day... that's verging on knowing child endangerment. Use dummy data, for crying out loud!
Everyone makes mistakes, myself included. I'll admit to posting members-only data in a public area once or twice. But once you know about it, there's no excuse to not fix it. This guy should probably be prosecuted. And while I hope the families get notified... I seriously doubt most of the affected families will ever find out.
Oh... and write this story down, boys and girls. This is yet one more nail in the coffin for TIA-styled programs. "Oh, we're very careful with our data." Right.
As more and more companies outsource their tech-support and customer service, I've noticed a common problem. While they are polite to the extreme, their technical knowledge is dismal. And unfortunately, it's not just about a particular product or service. It seems that their knowledge in my entire subject of inquiry is lacking.
Don't get me wrong; I think exemplary customer service is a good thing. But there is such a thing as taking it too far. Repeating everything I say verbatim gets very frustrating when the only inevitable response is "One moment while I look into this for you" and then being placed on hold while someone else is consulted, who may or may not have the answer.
It seems that the ability to treat every customer with kid gloves is down to an art over there. But is this at the cost of having adequate knowledge to actually solve a problem?
First off, call your credit card company/bank RIGHT NOW and dispute the charges. You'll probably be fine.
Legally speaking, he short answer is this: if you clicked "I agree" to anything, you're technically bound by it, so long as it is legally enforceable in your state. If the agreement said they were going to charge you, it's not their responsibility to track you down and remind you of it; you've already agreed once. If however, they sent you an e-mail saying that they were going to charge you for it after you agreed to something else that was free, that's technically credit card fraud.
That said, the slightly longer answer is good news: So long as you catch a given charge early enough, most disputes will probably be in your favor. This will, of course, depend on your bank. But I've rarely had problems, and I've never had to pay an unauthorized charge in the end.
The exact policy will vary from bank to bank and credit card to credit card. The general rule is that you can file a dispute with them for any charge within sixty days of the charge; NOT sixty days from the product and/or service. This includes electronic funds transfers and other debits, and electronically processed checks, check-by-phone, etc. if it's a bank... though not for checks with your signature on them. Some financial institutions will allow longer time-frames for some or all types of charges. Some make distinctions between blatant fraud, and "normal" situations like these, where a vendor charges for a product or service that does not live up to what was promised.
Microsoft's policies may very well be that they won't process a refund after sixty days. However, it's not like they can prove you've actually used it, since your X-box has been out of commission since before that time. This will only matter later, if they dispute your dispute. Odds are, they won't, since they won't have a signature on file... unless you were foolish enough to mail something into them.;-) As far as your bank/credit card company is concerned, you've got until February 26th (i.e. 60 days after the CHARGE) or later, depending on their policies. Check it out. Remember, it's the SIGNATURE that matters most, and you can sometimes get out of it even then. You just have to demonstrate that you received less than you were promised for the charge, something that isn't that difficult in the litigious society that we live in.
File the dispute, and you should be fine. From a social engineering perspective, I have found it useful to detail this process to the customer service rep you're speaking with, explaining that you will simply file a dispute with your bank and you'll get your money back anyway, in addition to causing their credit-card processor to charge them extra fees for the chargeback. Show them that it would just be less trouble for everyone involved if they will simply issue a refund. If you are clearly knowledgeable and they also understand the situation, they often back down... because they know that it's true and will only cost them more. But be nice about it. If you are to firm, you'll just piss them off and they make you go through it anyway, just to make your life harder. Because they also know that it's not costing THEM more; just the company.
Here's your opportunity to gouge the company everyone's always complaining about, on their own ground: legally.;-)
Apple offers $800 laptops and $600 desktops with an included monitor (at the Apple Store special deals section - thats an everyday price not an educational deal). That is not expensive as hell, its actually quite cheap comparing the hardware / software package included. Troll Apple all you want, but their prices are quite reasonable. Have you spec'd out a top of the line G5 against a top of the line Dell? Do your homework, kid.
I own a mac, genius; a 17-inch powerbook. I did my homework and decided that, regardless of the additional expense, a Macintosh would serve my purposes far better than a PC, with the ability to still use PC software when I need to.
Well, as you clearly demonstrate, you can always recognize a mac zealot by their constant need to prove that Apple is perfect. I spent almost my entire previous post supporting Apple, and yet you latch on to the only part of my post that could possibly be construed as being anti-Macintosh, even though I'm clearly not. I've worked closely with several corporations selling both Macs and PCs, and I have compared these machines, side by side. And yes, I've spec'd out the top-of-the-line of both Macs vs. PCs, and shopped around, since Dell clearly isn't the only maker of PCs. The results? Macs are generally more powerful but, for the equivalent hardware, far more expensive.
For my line of work the added benefit is worth the added cost, but I don't have to be happy about it. You really should learn the difference between a minor rant and a troll.
Slashdot Mirror
You really should read this entire thread; your comments have already been covered. However, I shall recap:
That wasn't the point. The point was that, regardless of how quickly the issues are resolved, they are issues that NEVER EXISTED in OS 9. There were no holes to plug, ever. It doesn't matter if the problems in OS X are gone now; they WERE present, ARE present on many machines still in use, and ARE NOT guaranteed to be fixed on machines currently being sold, as many were installed, and the boxes factory-sealed before the issues were resolved. I have personally received a brand-new machine that did NOT ship with the latest OS, and I was allowed a free upgrade because of it. Don't make the mistake of thinking that just because the software is available means it is always present. Of such assumptions are catastrophes made.
Also incorrect, and covered by our earlier conversations. Pretty Good Privacy is one of many utilities publicly available that are capable of such encryption, and if memory serves, they are capable of much more intensive and secure encryption than OS X is. The only difference is whether or not it's "built-in" to the OS. Regardless, regulating physical access to a machine was not the type of security issues that I meant, and I've already clarified that.
See above.
Wrong, wrong, WRONG! OS 9 HAS a network interface. Several, actually. And they were, and are secure. I challenge you to show me a way that, with or without a firewall installed, you can hack into Mac OS X. Found a few? Good! Now try to find one for OS 9. Not a vulnerability in an OS 9-compatible app, but in the OPERATING SYSTEM. No luck? There's a reason for that. It's called being secure, and it has been universally recognized. You can make all the arguments you want about how OS X has more services and therefore more vulnerabilities, but again, that was not my point. My point is that, without installing updates, without changing defaults, there's one box you can hack into, and one you can't. The one that's got vulnerabilities is OS X. It's as simple as that.
I PREFER OS X. I use it daily. I am not trying to start a holy war here. You can take it personally if you want, but I've backed my statements up with links, relevant data, and verifiable facts. I use OS X, the same as you. The difference is that I am not in denial about its shortcomings, however few, and that I'm open to education, should I be presented with a legitimate argument. Are you?
You're kind of talking apples and oranges. You're right that security is not limited to the front door, but it's not necessary to put a portcullis inside the door if you know the door is secure. If you're particularly worried about your files in OS 9, download PGP. But my point is that, unless you screw something up on your own or let others access your machine, you just didn't need that kind of support.
OS 9 didn't have a built-in firewall because OS 9 didn't have a bunch of services running that needed one. Even the built-in mini web server only served files out of a specific directory that most people never touched. Regardless, the firewall in OS X isn't on by default, and therein lies the problem. OS 9 didn't have any security issues (that I know of), that were a part of the operating system. As far as the I.E. security issue goes, that's a problem with an application, not with the operating system. In addition, it's a 3rd-party app, though it ships with the system.
Sure, Appleshare is INSTALLED by default, but it is not ENABLED by default. When you first install your OS, you are asked if you wish to have a Shared Folder, and you then have to go through the steps of creating it. Think of it this way: your house has a lock on the door, and is locked as a default. When you want to get into your house, you need to unlock the door. Now, you're able to unlock it and leave it unlocked, but that's a problem with the user, not with the door.
The point that I'm trying to make is that is was damn hard to get into an OS 9 box unless the user did something really dumb, like leave their password blank. If memory serves, you'd even get a warning if you did so. OS X has had a not insignificant number of security vulnerabilities that existed BY DEFAULT. That is, the box (assuming it was on and had a network connection) was insecure just sitting unused unless the user downloaded a patch. OS 9 did not have these vulnerabilities. It's that simple.
I'm not complaining about OS X; I'll never go back to OS 9 unless I need to run a classic app. I'm just pointing out a relevant fact: that OS 9 was inherently more secure by default than OS X, given recent security issues that have been brought to light. I'm also not advocating less security over more... but in this case it wasn't necessary, and to tell users that they need to keep adding more and more levels of security to a box that's already plenty secure is a waste of your time and theirs.
I'm not referring to the usability of the system; I'm referring to the number of security holes found in OS X vs. the number found in OS 9. Only one of the examples you gave has anything to do with security, and that one only applies once someone has gained access to the machine in question. I'm referring to the ability to access and/or run code on a box with a basic system left to its defaults.
I'm not aware of a method for remotely executing malicious code in OS 9 unless the user/administrator opens up ports that are closed by default or installs/runs 3rd-party software. (Appleshare doesn't count, as it depends on the user/administrator A) enabling sharing and B) setting it up with no password.) While the number of these security instances is low in OS X, they do exist.
When I first got my 17" Powerbook, I was dreading my inability to boot into OS 9. After the first couple of months, I stopped missing my OS 9 apps, having found better OS X replacements. Every once in a while, I'd accidentally launch a Classic app, but that was rarely an issue. The only problems I see with OS X now is that it's slightly less secure (though much more stable and powerful), and power users such as myself may run into a lack of available applications for specific tasks. (Rasterizing NOAA vector maps, for example.)
I imagine we'll hear a few people here and there complain about needing to migrate to OS X, but I think the pros for dropping G4s from the line outweigh the cons. Besides, I have a feeling that, unless they require very specific compatibiliy with a legacy app that's no longer available, they're going to be fine. Now we're going to see price drops increase on these suckers dramatically, and suddenly a bunch of students and other low-income folks be able to afford a machine that they didn't think possible for their budget. I'll bet DealMac will be listing some price slashing within a couple of days.
The "More" you get includes an 18-70mm (roughly equivalent to 35-100mm due to the size difference from 35mm that the CCD is) ED lens. Thus, you pay more for a "kit" than for the base camera body. Here is the D70 body alone, and as you can see it's only $999. (About $99 more than the Digital Rebel.)
The thing I liked about Nikon originally was that you can use almost any lens with almost any body from circa 1970 and later. However, I have since discovered (the hard way) that Nikon has intentionally engineered OUT the ability to use any manual-focus lens with the less expensive bodies. (F100 and F5 support them, D1 and D2 series do as well, but D70 and D100 do NOT.) You can still *use* the lens, but the in-camera metering system will not function unless the lens has electronics, i.e. is auto-focus.
One item worth mentioning is that, as far as both myself and a Nikon tech could find, the only reason you might want the D100 over the D70 is that there are a few more accessories available for the D100, such as an extended battery pack that also functions as a vertical grip. However, the D70 seems like a great value (compared to everything else available), and if you don't need the other accessories (or want a cheaper lens), you can get it separately.
"SLR" stands for Single Lens Reflex. This means that light passes through the lens, off a mirror and/or CCD, and into your eye. It means that there is no parralax error due to you and the camera seeing your subject from different angles. It doesn't necessarily mean you have the ability to change lenses, nor does it mean it's a "professional grade" camera. It doesn't even have to be much more complicated than your average point-and-shoot, though I'm assuming you want to be able to grow as you learn.
In the lower class of Digital SLR bodies with interchangeable lenses, you've got the Nikon D70 and D100, the Canon Digital Rebel, and a few cameras by Sigma and Fuji. These cameras (bodies with interchangeable lenses) will allow you the most flexibility, options, and quality. However, they are also much more expensive, starting at about the $1000 mark. For the moment, I'll assume this is the area you're looking at.
First off, the Canon Digital Rebel is not the only camera in its class. Nikon just released the D70, which seems to kick the Rebel's ass. I spoke to Nikon Digital Support (800-645-6689), and they said the memory buffer was so fast that you could pretty much keep shooting continuously until you ran out of space. Compared to older models that would only do "burst mode" for up to five seconds, that's quite a feat. The D70 is only about 3 frames/second, but the D2H can do 8 frames/second for five seconds before the buffer gets full. Of course, the D2H is about $3K, but I can dream. ;-)
Second, you are not limited to (and may not want) a camera with interchangable lenses. The Nikon Coolpix 5700 and 8700 are pretty decent (the latter being 8 megapixels!), and the Canon PowerShot Pro1, G5, and S1 are also options. One definite advantage the cameras without interchangable lenses have is that they are going to be much smaller and lighter.
As per several recommendations already posted, definitely check out DPReview. Great site, lots of info, full testing, sample shots, menus and interfaces, etc. Think about what your priorities are. How high of a resolution do you need? 6 megapixels is plenty for an 8x10. (4 can actually get you by.) If you aren't printing anything larger than that, you're fine. Do you care if there's a proprietary battery, or do you need the flexibility of "standard"-sized batteries? (AA, AAA, etc.) Do you have a preference for media type? (I prefer CompactFlash, as it tends to give the best cost/size ratio, and the card size options are larger.) Do you need lens interchangeability? Do you want it? Regardless of what you want *right now*, where do you want to take your photography eventually? Make sure your camera choice now will not limit your goals later.
Personally, I'd lean more towards the larger SLR bodies with interchangeable lenses. They're bigger, heavier, and *can be* more expensive... though this is by no means true any more. However, the options you have are incredible. Of course, you may well just be leaving the camera in automatic mode all the time, which makes those options useless, overpriced oversized, etc. However, if you *want* those options later... you may not have to "upgrade" anything other than your lens options. Now that
Ala Carte cable pricing has been around for years, at least in California. There was one of those fun "within ten years" laws that required cable companies to allow subscribers to purchase any single channel separately from the standard lineup. Of course, it didn't specify prices... so naturally, the cable companies have no reason to price it reasonably. (Most individual channels were between $10-15.) I don't recall the particular bill/mandate in question, but I remember bothering Comcast about it, just for fun. :-)
Most carriers already have yourphonenumber@carrier.com set up for text messaging, and most of the ones who don't have forms that are easy to hack and use yourself. (I've done it before, for specific clients to reach me.)
Step 1: Download entire list of available numbers.
Step 2: Sort list into sublists based on carrier, if available.
Step 3: Write a <20 line script to send your "important message" to yourphonenumber@carrier.com.
Step 4: Ignore the rule in Step 3, and add another 5-10 lines of code to make sure your spam goes to yourphonenumber@everycarrier.com, just to be sure.
Step 5: Profit! (Via your spam clients.)
Yes, report spammers! But don't expect them all to stop. Most of the spam we all get these days isn't legal, but it still comes.
Try reading my post again. I've taken the opposite stance that you seem to think I have.
In other news, a similar pill allowing for massive increases in strength and muscle mass via constant electric stimulation was banned for use in most public sporting events, though several athletes have been caught in a massive sting operation. However, due to newly-released self-destructive nanobots contained in the pill, it has become very difficult to track the use of such mechanisms.
Seriously, while the potential benefits from such technology will, in my opinion, greatly outweigh the dangers... I can see the potential for some pretty heavy "fairness" implications coming up. We'll see...
This is precisely why I'll only use a credit card.
Banks and credit card (at least, all of those that I've dealt with) seem to take a very dim view of fraud. I've NEVER had a problem filing a dispute, and getting my money back. I've had unauthorized charges, defective products/equipment that the vendor would not accept for a return, items that failed to live up to their description, and services offered and paid for that were not adequately provided. In every one of these instances, I've been able to successfully get my money back.
Don't pay via any other method than a credit card. Don't use a check; it's notoriously difficult to get money back in the case of check fraud. Using a postal money order depends on your ability to both A) find the seller and B) find someone at the post office who's interested in following it up. DO NOT use a service like Western Union; this is one of the easiest ways for sellers to get your money and just disappear.
Paypal is something of a toss-up. I've asked my bank, and they said that they had no problem disputing a charge with Paypal if an item was sold fraudulently. I have not needed to test this yet, but here are my concerns: First, Paypal may claim that my agreement is with them and not the seller, and that they have fulfilled their part of the bargain: to deliver my money to the seller. I don't know how well that argument would hold up, but I don't relish the idea of having to argue it. I think I'd win, but it woudn't be fun. Second, Paypal may just choose to write off the loss, and send my account to a collection agency, again citing their responsibilities, and the terms and conditions they list on their site. Collection agencies are MUCH harder to argue with, and legally, Paypal may very well be correct. In general, I only use Paypal for items with a relatively small value/selling price.
In just about any instance, using a credit card is better at protecting your interests. There are no guarantees, but here's how the Visa system works:
Buyer gives Seller their credit card. Seller runs the card through Processor. (Whomever is processing their charges for them) This can be a bank or a third-party processor, but usually it's the latter, unless it's a larger company with their own merchant account with a financial institution. Third-party processors are usually a cheaper option for companies or sellers with lower sales numbers. Anyway, Seller gives Processor Buyer's credit card info. Processor runs the card through the Visa system and if it returns an authorization, either immediately deposits the money into Seller's account, or sends them a biweekly/monthly check, depending on their agreement. The Visa system does a test with Buyer's credit card backer (their bank, CC company, etc.) to make sure the funds are available. This is not actually a charge; it's called an "authorization", and will drop off in a few days to a week. The actual charge (called a "posted" charge) comes through anywhere from the same day to a few weeks later, though usually it takes 2-3 days, and again must be initiated by Seller's financial institution, though this is usually automatic.
For a dispute, Buyer's financial institution tells Visa International that the charge was fraudulent, or services were not provided, or whatever. Visa goes to Seller's financial institution and asks for proof that the charge was legit, and Seller's financial institution forwards this request to Seller. This is often quite difficult for Seller, if they do not have your signature. That's the reason most companies require so much verification over the phone/web. If Seller cannot demonstrate that they have provided all products/services promised, the charge is reversed. This is called a "chargeback", and usually costs Seller's financial institution (and thus, Seller), a fee. Most sellers would rather just process the return than get a chargeback, both because of the fee and because it's a black mark on their record. I'm not sure who
It's quite simple, really. The glass container in which the corn starch is stored resonates perfectly at 120Hz. Had the researchers used a difference thickness, weight or purity of glass, the required frequency would be different, though far less stable. What they have done, in effect, is open a very small gateway into a sub-level dimension. It is fortunate that they did not accelerate the container to a rate generating more force, which would have caused the hole to open larger; they might have inadvertently unleashed one of these.
Many die-hards out there will undoubtedly tell you that it's not the camera; it's the photographer. Thus, a waterproof point-and-shoot will work fun. That said, it's much more of a pain in the ass to try and figure out how the point-and-shoot will react... and you don't often see those die-hard professionals using point-and-shoots, anyway.
I'm assuming that by nature of the fact that you posted this question, you're concerned with your shots coming out well, so I'll ignore the disposables for now. Your next (and in my opinion, cheapest/easiest) option would be to use a small digital camera that you already have, or buy one that you'll be able to use later. Then get a waterproof case for it. You can get these in several styles.
This one, at $45 will let you shoot while it's in the case, and is not camera-specific. This type is camera specific and is a better choice, though considerably more expensive. ($100-$400, depending on the make/model of camera.) Pelican makes a series called the "Micro Case Series", which you also might want to take a look at. They're cheaper than the ones you can use the camera in ($10-$20), but will only keep the camera waterproof when it's in them.
However, since you mentioned that you're expecting floods with little warning, the last option is probably not the best. I'd recommend the first if you're on a budget, or the second if you're not. I use the third when sailing, but I usually have fair warning before conditions arise that I'll need to watch for. It sounds like you won't.
You can also get digital cameras that are inherently waterproof, like this one, and this one. However, I'd recommend against these, because it sounds like you only need it for this trip. I'd get a camera you can use normally, and a case for situations like these.
This sounds vaguely like the dream solution for developers. The article says:
Does that mean it can handly booting multiple OSes simutaniously? If so, how long before someone writes an app that bridges multiple OSes, allowing the equivalent of emulation, without the emulation? I don't know about the rest of you, but the potential of this chip sounds like a dream come true. And at $35-$100 per chip... it's cheaper than the processor for most systems anyway.
Don't use the watch. You'll smack it against something, and then you're screwed. Ditto for a generic USB flash drive, unless you're sure it's bulletproof. Get something reliable, or don't get anything. If you want to be sure you're covered, buy three of whatever it is. Keep one handy, one in a fireproof safe/lockbox on the premises, and one at home. If your only hardware key gets hosed, so do you.
Oh, and KISS. You're right; the cardkey isn't practical, and not just because it'd be difficult/expensive to build. It would probably also be something prohibitively difficult to troubleshoot, should you have problems later. Then you have to call a specialist, and hope he's A) cheap and B) can figure out how to solve your custom-built (and therefore, proprietary) hardware problem. You're probably on the right track with small, removable hardware. Just make sure it's also reliable, or it's useless.
Your local telco should be able to provide you with a T1 for roughly $600-700 per month, although it is not uncommon to see them priced at $1,000-1,500. Resellers can sometimes drop below that. Of course, your initial cost for equipment will probably run your first month into the thousands, so a T1 might not be the best option.
I have several clients who own and operate their own web servers using nothing more complicated than an SDSL line, a router, and a dedicated Mac or PC. (DO NOT plan on using your server as your desktop machine!) This is slightly more expensive ($70-200 per month or more, depending on bandwidth), but generally includes one or more static IPs, and willingness to let you run anything you want, so long as it's legal. Call all of your local DSL providers for pricing, terms, and availability, or check with DSL reports to see who's in your area and what people say about them.
Of course, if you're concerned about costs and reliability, just stick with cable and use a host. $6 a month isn't much, and it's well worth not having the same headaches as running a server. Almost no cheap ADSL or cable provider will allow you to run a server; that's the reason they're so inexpensive. If you run a server, their bandwidth costs go up.
And people "wonder why games have to be subject to crime, no matter how virtual"?
And then, of course, Slashdot's footer quote today was "If God had intended Men to Smoke, He would have put Chimneys in their Heads."
And it's still a month until April...
I must say that I'm very surprised by this response. I've had an extraordinarily positive experience with them, particularly BECAUSE of their anti-spam policy. They are very serious about complaints, but when I filed one, were definitely very careful about not arbitrarily shutting the spammer down just because *I said* they were a spammer. They contacted the spammer first, went back and forth with them and myself for a few days, and then shut them down when they would not stop.
Based on my experience from the other side of the equation, you should have been contacted first. I'm surprised that you weren't. I would suggest contacting the President, Bob Parsons' office. When I called, I was told that he kept his number fairly easy to access because he prefers to be more hands-on and accessible to customers. I'm sure that he doesn't take the calls personally (I got voicemail when I called), but was told later that the issue had been referred by him personally to the abuse dept manager, who called me back.
The " Office of The President" number is (480) 505-8828, and the e-mail address is president@godaddy.com. Give 'em a call, and a chance. Everyone has given some variation of "you get what you pay for", but this customer has gotten far more than that in the past.
Well, here's what's in the cavern I call a backpack:
A Mini-Mouse
I don't know about the rest of you, but for me a button pointer or trackpad just can't beat the feel of a mouse. MacAlly makes a niftly little mouse called the iOptiJr, which is just the smaller version of the iSweetNet. Nice and small, thus very precise; two buttons, wheel button, and programmable, and it's Mac/PC compatible. But... you'll have to get used to it being so small. I think other mice are big and bulky by comparison now, but that's because I got used to this one. You may need to install drivers, depending on your machine. You can get a wireless version, but then you have to worry about batteries. Optical is WAY better than your basic mechanical ball... unless you're using it on the surface of your laptop, or another shiny/sparkly surface. Think ahead.
A Mini USB Hub
Here's a slick one by IOGear. This has proved useful occasionally, but I haven't used it in over six months. Buy at your discretion. Mine (Not the IOGear one; a different brand) came with a cable that was split into two USB plugs; one to provide basic functionality, and one to provide added power, so you could use more power-hungry devices (like external USB floppy drives, scanners, etc.) without needing to plug the hub into the wall. But... this can drain the power of your laptop if you aren't careful.
A Wireless Network Card
If your machine doesn't ship with one (or with functionality on the motherboard), buy yourself an 802.11g PCMCIA card. They're backwards compatible with 802.11b, and network access (copying files, etc.) is up to five times faster. However, this won't matter for internet access unless your sitting behind a T3. If you aren't planning on networking large files EVER, than spend half as much on 802.11b. Definitely get one though, because most internet cafes and hotspots are swithcing to wireless-only access, if they haven't already.
A Portable Flatbed Scanner
Obviously, this'll only matter if you need one. But I've found Canon's LIDE series (I've got the LIDE 30)to be a nice addition to my bag. Good quality, fast, small (same footprint as my 17-inch powerbook, and only 1.5 inches think!), and it's powered by the USB cable!
A Webcam
there are about a billion and a half of these out there. Think about what you're actually going to use it for, if anything. Don't spend extra because it's detachable and can take still photos. You're better off buying a digital camera. I've never needed one, but you might.
A Bluetooth Adapter PCMCIA Card or USB dongle.
This may be a non-issue for you, but if you have or think you might get any bluetooth devices (such as a wireless mouse or Bluetooth-enable PDA), this could well be worth the money. Again, it may already be on your motherboard.
Cables! (Oh, and a cable bag.)
Okay, one USB cable, normal-sized, and one of the mini-plugged ones, for digital cameras and other devices. Although... I've never needed to use this. (I try to stay as modular as possible, and use things that work with more standardized cables, etc.) A firewire 6-pin to 6-pin (for large devices such as drives), and a 6-pin to 4-pin, for smaller devices such as DV-camcorders. Other cables (such as a USB light, A/V and monitor cables, etc.) are up to you.
A Digital Camera
Obviously, not a necessity for a laptop user, but usually pretty handy if you don't have one. Buy one that uses Compact Flash (cheapest memory, MB/dollar), and AA batteries. Buy rechargables, highest capacity you can find... usually around 1800-2200 mA. Oh, and you can get a great 30-minute charger by Energizer for about $40 at Best Bu
There is no conflict of interest here. I'm sure that Microsoft has instructed Mr. Wallis as to exactly what his interests should be. Besides, it's not like this is news or anything. ;-)
The fact that the data went through multiple levels of subcontractors doesn't bother me, so long as each has signed the appropriate waivers and so long as each have been checked out enough to be trusted with the data. But there's no excuse for leaving proprietary and/or sensitive information out there, unprotected.
Password-protecting an entire directory is trivial. 20 seconds to a seasoned user, or a few minutes in a web interface for a newbie. This info wasn't just accidentally left unprotected; it was intentionally posted to a public-facing site, in an attempt to attract programming assistance. This, on it's own, could easily be called criminally negligent. But after being warned of the potential consequences and posting it again the following day... that's verging on knowing child endangerment. Use dummy data, for crying out loud!
Everyone makes mistakes, myself included. I'll admit to posting members-only data in a public area once or twice. But once you know about it, there's no excuse to not fix it. This guy should probably be prosecuted. And while I hope the families get notified... I seriously doubt most of the affected families will ever find out.
Oh... and write this story down, boys and girls. This is yet one more nail in the coffin for TIA-styled programs. "Oh, we're very careful with our data." Right.
As more and more companies outsource their tech-support and customer service, I've noticed a common problem. While they are polite to the extreme, their technical knowledge is dismal. And unfortunately, it's not just about a particular product or service. It seems that their knowledge in my entire subject of inquiry is lacking.
Don't get me wrong; I think exemplary customer service is a good thing. But there is such a thing as taking it too far. Repeating everything I say verbatim gets very frustrating when the only inevitable response is "One moment while I look into this for you" and then being placed on hold while someone else is consulted, who may or may not have the answer.
It seems that the ability to treat every customer with kid gloves is down to an art over there. But is this at the cost of having adequate knowledge to actually solve a problem?
First off, call your credit card company/bank RIGHT NOW and dispute the charges. You'll probably be fine.
Legally speaking, he short answer is this: if you clicked "I agree" to anything, you're technically bound by it, so long as it is legally enforceable in your state. If the agreement said they were going to charge you, it's not their responsibility to track you down and remind you of it; you've already agreed once. If however, they sent you an e-mail saying that they were going to charge you for it after you agreed to something else that was free, that's technically credit card fraud.
That said, the slightly longer answer is good news: So long as you catch a given charge early enough, most disputes will probably be in your favor. This will, of course, depend on your bank. But I've rarely had problems, and I've never had to pay an unauthorized charge in the end.
The exact policy will vary from bank to bank and credit card to credit card. The general rule is that you can file a dispute with them for any charge within sixty days of the charge; NOT sixty days from the product and/or service. This includes electronic funds transfers and other debits, and electronically processed checks, check-by-phone, etc. if it's a bank... though not for checks with your signature on them. Some financial institutions will allow longer time-frames for some or all types of charges. Some make distinctions between blatant fraud, and "normal" situations like these, where a vendor charges for a product or service that does not live up to what was promised.
Microsoft's policies may very well be that they won't process a refund after sixty days. However, it's not like they can prove you've actually used it, since your X-box has been out of commission since before that time. This will only matter later, if they dispute your dispute. Odds are, they won't, since they won't have a signature on file... unless you were foolish enough to mail something into them. ;-) As far as your bank/credit card company is concerned, you've got until February 26th (i.e. 60 days after the CHARGE) or later, depending on their policies. Check it out. Remember, it's the SIGNATURE that matters most, and you can sometimes get out of it even then. You just have to demonstrate that you received less than you were promised for the charge, something that isn't that difficult in the litigious society that we live in.
File the dispute, and you should be fine. From a social engineering perspective, I have found it useful to detail this process to the customer service rep you're speaking with, explaining that you will simply file a dispute with your bank and you'll get your money back anyway, in addition to causing their credit-card processor to charge them extra fees for the chargeback. Show them that it would just be less trouble for everyone involved if they will simply issue a refund. If you are clearly knowledgeable and they also understand the situation, they often back down... because they know that it's true and will only cost them more. But be nice about it. If you are to firm, you'll just piss them off and they make you go through it anyway, just to make your life harder. Because they also know that it's not costing THEM more; just the company.
Here's your opportunity to gouge the company everyone's always complaining about, on their own ground: legally. ;-)
I own a mac, genius; a 17-inch powerbook. I did my homework and decided that, regardless of the additional expense, a Macintosh would serve my purposes far better than a PC, with the ability to still use PC software when I need to.
Well, as you clearly demonstrate, you can always recognize a mac zealot by their constant need to prove that Apple is perfect. I spent almost my entire previous post supporting Apple, and yet you latch on to the only part of my post that could possibly be construed as being anti-Macintosh, even though I'm clearly not. I've worked closely with several corporations selling both Macs and PCs, and I have compared these machines, side by side. And yes, I've spec'd out the top-of-the-line of both Macs vs. PCs, and shopped around, since Dell clearly isn't the only maker of PCs. The results? Macs are generally more powerful but, for the equivalent hardware, far more expensive.
For my line of work the added benefit is worth the added cost, but I don't have to be happy about it. You really should learn the difference between a minor rant and a troll.
Do your homework, kid.