Slashdot Mirror


The Electrocharger...Any Day Now?

bigmoosie asks: "It has been over a year since the Electrocharger was discussed on Slashdot. It appears to be almost ready for production, or is it still vaporware? Does the Slashdot community think an electric motor replacing the alternator on an internal combustion engine will add 5, 10, or even 15 mpg? How well do you think the super capacitor battery pack will hold up at -20 degrees Fahrenheit? Are there any other products out there that do the same thing? I know this is not as efficient as a hybrid car made at a factory, but it can reduce the fuel consumption and emissions for cars that are 5 or even 10 years old and still on the road. Does have the potential to be an environmental friend or disaster (how long does the battery pack last)?"

98 comments

  1. Boy... by Praedon · · Score: 0, Redundant

    I could sure use that... Darn Gas Prices..

    --
    Just me
    1. Re:Boy... by bleaknik · · Score: 1

      Ok. Maybe Praedon's comment doesn't deserve to be highly rated, but I don't see how the first comment can be listed as a redundant comment.

      Would someone help me understand this?

      --
      Deja Vu
      n. 1. The sensation that you've read this very article before.
    2. Re:Boy... by Praedon · · Score: 1

      Haha.. I do agree with you on this.. some people LACK the correct vision on using modding points...

      --
      Just me
  2. It'll be awhile now. by dshaw858 · · Score: 1

    I think that despite when the 'electrocharger' is released, it'll be a long while until it really genuinely catches on. Even Hybrid cars which increase miles per gallon haven't really caught on yet. It could make things a lot better... but we'll really just see with time, won't we?

    - dshaw

    1. Re:It'll be awhile now. by Rac3r5 · · Score: 1

      I don't think the concept of hybrid cars hasn't caught on, its more of a price issue.

      Hybrid cars are quite expensive. For example I drive a Chevy Cavalier. If I buy a new one, it'll cost me 16G's. If I buy a hybrid, it'll cost me at least 10G's more. The current gas prices are not that insane that I'm spending 10G's more in gas.

    2. Re:It'll be awhile now. by ForestGrump · · Score: 1

      It's not that bad.

      The Insight is about 20k, and yea, who cares now. my dad bought one in the 01 model year, and it was fun then, now i see a prius every time i go out. the novelty wore off long ago.

      Anyway, the real question now is how long will they last? the car companies have pretty much nailed making the 4 stroke engine, but the hybrid powertrain is still very new. Most hybrids out there are less than 5 years old, so we don't know what happens to these battery/powertrain once they start againg.

      --
      Is it true that more people vote for the winner of American Idol, than vote for the president? -Ali G.
    3. Re:It'll be awhile now. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Your shift key appears to be working only intermittently.

    4. Re:It'll be awhile now. by ForestGrump · · Score: 1

      tHanks for the FYI. I'll call deLL tomorrow to WARRanty the laptoP KeyboaRD.

      --
      Is it true that more people vote for the winner of American Idol, than vote for the president? -Ali G.
  3. Does have the potential? by evilpenguin · · Score: 4, Funny

    "Does have the potential to be an environmental friend or disaster?"

    I know enough logic to know the answer to this question is definitely "yes." ;-)

    1. Re:Does have the potential? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The correct answer is NULL, actually.

    2. Re:Does have the potential? by SecretAsianMan · · Score: 1

      Not true. It may have neither potential (environmental friend or disaster). Therefore the answer is indeterminate.

      --

      Washington, DC: It's like Hollywood for ugly people.

  4. Hey by PunkOfLinux · · Score: 1

    It would be great if they gave some of the actual science behind how this works -- then I could find out if it would actually do something.

    1. Re:Hey by elmegil · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I think the fact that they call this a simple equation gives a pretty accurate vision of the likelihood it will actually work. That definitely looks like bullshit with which to baffle.

      --
      7 November 2006: The day Americans realized corruption and incompetence weren't addressing 11 September 2001
    2. Re:Hey by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      The main page says their "motor" is just waiting for the "software" (cough).

      I bet the A&M connection is that one of them failed out of business school there.

      Or maybe they have to wait for the 6.80 GHz quantum optical processor (as slashvertised on slashdot) to run the motor.

    3. Re:Hey by Incongruity · · Score: 1

      So are you calling the diagram/equation bullshit? If so, I guess you should go take a look at the cited source, "COURTESY: BOSCH AUTOMOTIVE HANDBOOK, 5TH EDITION" -- I guess they could have used the latest edition but it seems reputable enough to me -- and they go on to simplify it quite clearly, which seems reasonable enough as well. So, I fail to see the BS in the linked equation.

    4. Re:Hey by puppetman · · Score: 2, Informative


      They claim (which I can't verify) that the equation is from:

      "COURTESY: BOSCH AUTOMOTIVE HANDBOOK, 5TH EDITION"

      Looks like you need a degree if physics to figure it out. Also looks like a scan of a piece of paper.

    5. Re:Hey by alienw · · Score: 1

      The equation is correct. I think the point the grandparent wanted to make was that the equation is irrelevant. I would tend to agree.

    6. Re:Hey by elmegil · · Score: 1

      Not only that, but calling that equation "simple" is ludicrous to the point of stupidity.

      --
      7 November 2006: The day Americans realized corruption and incompetence weren't addressing 11 September 2001
  5. No connection by 1967mustangman · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Try as I might I can't find a connection between Sigma Automotive and Texas A&M. The only other chatter I see about this on the web are on hybrid enthusiast sites..........I smell a rat.

    --
    Madre de Dios! Es El Pollo Diablo! -- Captain Blondebeard
  6. That was it! by Rod+Beauvex · · Score: 1

    That's what I was asking about in the other thread. I don't see what this wouldn't work.

  7. Please mod parent article: by jfisherwa · · Score: 1

    Ask Slashdot: The Electrocharger...Any Day Now? (-5, Troll)

    This is complete bullshit. Much like those "Tornado Air Chargers," but for the idiot with deep pockets.

    If you want good gas mileage, convince someone to release a decent diesel-electric hybrid car.

    Alternatively, take that $3000 and find yourself a used Geo Metro in decent condition and you'll be right at 50mpg with cash to spare.

  8. Replace the alternator? by i.r.id10t · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Heck, some of us don't even have alternators.

    I guess I could replace the generator and regulator, maybe upgrade from 6v to 12v (or more?) at the same time...

    --
    Don't blame me, I voted for Kodos
  9. aftermarket regenerative braking? by benjamindees · · Score: 1

    The ElectrochargerTM replaces the vehicle's alternator and battery charging system and gets most of its energy during vehicle braking, while additional energy comes from the engine while the vehicle is at cruising speed.

    It's certainly an interesting concept. I suppose it's wired up somehow to know when you press on the brake pedal, and energize the stator to start charging. Of course your brakes are still probably doing most of the work.

    Who knows, maybe it could be workable. If only the site designing these would do some tests and provide some info. For someone who lives in a hilly area or does a lot of stop-and-go driving, this could be an affordable hybrid upgrade.

    --
    "I assumed blithely that there were no elves out there in the darkness"
    1. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by alienw · · Score: 1

      I don't think it's possible to get regenerative braking with this device. To do that, you would have to decouple the gas engine from the rest of the system. Since this system attaches to the crankshaft, it won't be able to extract any energy from braking because either the transmission will disengage the engine from the wheels or you will get regular engine braking. In either case, the electric motor won't extract any power.

    2. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 2, Informative

      It's not using regenerative breaking. It's capturing the wasted energy the engine create while you are breaking. Unless you are power breaking any energy the engine creates is lost. Same with idling, the engine continues to run even though you are not using that energy.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    3. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by Infinityis · · Score: 2, Informative

      You are correct...this was a question I had while working there. I even contacted a company that makes torque converters to see if they even CAN transmit power from the wheels to the engine, and they said no (which isn't very surprising when you see how they work). So, no braking regen for automatic transmissions. However, if you want regen in a manual transmission, you just need to make sure you don't step on the clutch until you absolutely have to--stepping on the clutch right when you start braking will make any regen impossible. See my other post in this topic for more general information.

      I admit, it was especially frustrating seeing the outrageous claims from the inside but not having the power/authority to correct them. Although if I did have the power to do such things, the first thing I would do is have the web pages make more sense in terms of both layout/organization. Then I'd delete the excessive, unfounded claims.

    4. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by alienw · · Score: 1

      When the engine is idling, it uses up just enough fuel to overcome the internal friction and keep running at a certain RPM. If you load it down with a generator, it will use proportionally more fuel, and you won't gain any fuel efficiency.

    5. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 2, Informative

      That's not exactly accurate. If that where true, an engie would put out 0ft/lbs of torque at it's idle rpm (~800rpm). You know this is false because if you put your car in drive/first and leave you foot off the gas, (slow clutch release on manuals), the car will move, usually at about 3-5mph. If an auto tranny loses anywheres from 10%-40% efficiency, you are looking at a significant amount of energy.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    6. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by confused+one · · Score: 1

      The engine is generating 0ft/lbs of available torque at idle. If it wasn't the rpm would be increasing. On older cars, when you put it into gear, the rpm dropped to about 650. The difference in rpm represents the energy required by the extra loading. Modern cars maintain the 800 rpm because the computer opens the air bypass valve in the throttle body to increase the amount of power the engine is generating.

    7. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 1

      Uh, having torque does not make an engine accelerate. In order for a gas engine to accelerate the spark needs to advance. When the spark advances the combustion starts earlier bringing more force to the piston which makes then engine turn faster which sucks in more air, which makes for a larger explosion which gives you more torque, etc...

      An engine puts out torque at idle, it's that simple. If not, how would it turn the water pump? the altinator? the torque converter? If including those things is still net'd 0 ft/lbs what happens when you turn your AC on. Your car still idles at the same RPM (if everything is in good working order and efficient)? what happens if your battery is low? The altinator takes more force to turn.

      As for why old cars drop to 650rpms when you put them in gear, it's because when you have your foot on the break you are not allowing any of the torque the engine produces to go to the wheels. all that energy has to be released someplace, and that's where the torque converter comes in. The torque converter is kind of like a clutch, in that it allows the engine to spin with out turning the tranny. When the torque converter raises it's rpms, it slips less. So at 500rpms the torque converter is freely spinning, at 800rpms it is maybe 30% (imaginary number for point only). But the engine can't pass 30% of it's torque to the drive train because your foot is still on the breaks, so it still spins the torque converter. But spinning the torque converter takes force since it's 30% locked at 800rpms, that opposing torque reduces the engine speed by 150rpms.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    8. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      Uh, having torque does not make an engine accelerate. In order for a gas engine to accelerate the spark needs to advance.

      This is total nonsense.
      If you have extra torque (after subtracting all your frictional losses) the engine is going to accelerate.

      Spark advance is a mere optimization of the combustion. There are plenty of engines out the that DON'T EVEN HAVE spark advance and still manage to accelerate.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    9. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      That's not exactly accurate. If that where true, an engie would put out 0ft/lbs of torque at it's idle rpm (~800rpm). You know this is false because if you put your car in drive/first and leave you foot off the gas, (slow clutch release on manuals), the car will move, usually at about 3-5mph.

      No, my car will stall out and die.
      Some cars are programmed so that when you press in the clutch it automatically raises the idle RPM to help keep you from stalling.

      Also, you're forgetting about this thing called the flywheel, which stores momentum to help keep you from stalling when you try to take off.

      Combining those two things, your car might not stall and die, but your understanding of the mechanics here is clearly messed up.

      It's as simple as this:
      If there's a surplus of torque, the engine is going to accelerate.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    10. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 1

      Spark advance is a mere optimization of the combustion. There are plenty of engines out the that DON'T EVEN HAVE spark advance and still manage to accelerate.

      LOL! That is the funniest thing I have ever heard!!! Even the oldest of the old cars had spark advance. Every single car in the world with a variable speed engine has some form of spark advance. Wether it's points with springs and centrifical force, vaccuum advance, mechanical advance, computer controled, or any other system, spark advance is what allows an engine to accelerate. How else could the engine accelerate? Gas burns at the same rate wether you have 1 part fuel or 20 parts fuel. The only way to change the speed of the engine is to change the point in time that the combustion begins.

      If you have extra torque (after subtracting all your frictional losses) the engine is going to accelerate.

      That is incorrect. If you have extra torque at the WHEEL the car will accelerate, if you have extra torque at the CRANK the force is wasted by spining the torque converter.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    11. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 1

      No, my car will stall out and die.

      Your car likely high high ratio final gears. (aka Highway gears), good for cruising at speed, bad for low end torque. Take my wife's truck for example, designed for off roading. It has extremely low gearing, I can put it in first, slowly let of the clutch and it will go with out a flinch in the rpms. It's a mid 80's and the engine is carbed, not fuel injected. There is not air bypass, nor any other system that magically increases power at idle because it's in gear.

      Go out and look at some old classics, find an old military truck, a beefy straight 6 with no more electronics then the spark plugs and tach. Load that truck up with a half ton of gear stick it in first, drop the clutch and watch it walk away.

      Also, you're forgetting about this thing called the flywheel, which stores momentum to help keep you from stalling when you try to take off.

      Given that logic a vehicle may be able to start moving, but as soon as the momentum from the flywheel was effectively countered the car would stop moving. But the car will continue moving. The car will then accelerate up to the rpm as it is limited by the amount of torque it takes to overcome all power loss in the drivetrain and friction.

      Okay, here's one for you guys. If I put my car in nuetral, and put the gas half way to the floor, it will spin up to 4000+ rpms. But if I hold my foot steady, the rpms wont rise. Are you saying my car puts out 0ft/lbs of torque at 4000rpm!?!?! No, it's putting out plenty of torque, but that torque is being wasted on spinning the output shaft on the torque converter. That drive gear has probrably 200+ ft/lbs of torque spinning it at 4000 rpms, but it's not connected to anything since the car is in nuetral.

      You guys are both trying to apply partial armchair physics.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    12. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by gasmasher · · Score: 1

      ...torque converters to see if they even CAN transmit power from the wheels to the engine, and they said no.
      When you downshift an automatic transmission it clearly increases the rotational speed of the engine. Many automatic cars now downshift, when the brake is applied and the throttle position sensor is at zero, for engine braking. I'm sure the detection of when to downshift is more complicated, but it gets to the point that a TC can perform work on the crankshaft. For even more efficiency the torque converter clutch can be engaged. This makes the torque converter little more than a large flywheel.

    13. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      What you say is true. I also don't know exactly how they decide when to engage the torque converter clutch, but it is possible that they can, which would allow some benefit for regenerative braking. If you want to get technical though, that's not the torque converter transmitting power but rather the clutch, so it is possible (actually likely) that I asked the wrong question and thus got the wrong answer. Thanks for pointing that out.

    14. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by alienw · · Score: 1

      How else could the engine accelerate? Gas burns at the same rate wether you have 1 part fuel or 20 parts fuel

      Huh? If you have more gas and more O2, it will produce more energy when it burns. When this energy is converted into rotational energy, the engine accelerates. Spark advance has nothing to do with it. Diesel engines don't even use sparks, and they work fine. Lawnmower engines don't have spark advance, and they manage to accelerate (from zero) just fine.

    15. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 1

      " If you have more gas and more O2, it will produce more energy when it burns."

      Correct, more air/fuel mixture, more energy. But that energy is still released at the same rate.

      "Diesel engines don't even use sparks, and they work fine."

      Diesels use heat and pressure to ignite the air/fuel mixture. They use high preasure fuel injectors to shoot fuel directly into the combustion chamber under preasure. They accelerate by injecting the fuel earlier.

      "Lawnmower engines don't have spark advance, and they manage to accelerate (from zero) just fine."

      Lawnmowers (the push kind) don't have spark advance, correct. But they are 2-stroke engines. These cheap little motors are technically single speed but have a "speed" adjustment. What that actually is, is a power adjustment, you are allowing more air/fuel mixture into the cylinder which gives it more power to turn the blade. In this case it's not a matter of you increase the speed of the motor, but a matter of the resistance from the blade forcing it to slow down. As you increase the air/fuel flow, the mower developes more power and can turn the blade faster. Even if you put a turbo charger on a lawn mower, it would only accelerate up to a set point, at which point it could not burn all of the fuel available in one cycle (any you would start shooting flames out your exhaust). But if you give it a shot of Nos it'll speed up because Nos burns faster then gas.

      Man, I just can not find the expansion rate of gasoline today. But I assure you, gas will always expand at so many feet per second. Wether you have 1 ml of gas or 10 gallons of gas, it will always expand at a set rate of ft/s. The only way to make an engine accelerate is to alter the ignition timing of the air fuel mixture. With the exception of torque limited 2-stroke engines where the speed of the engine is controled by the available power vs the resistance.

      Increased air/fuel consumption is the RESULT of an engine turning faster, not the CAUSE.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    16. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      LOL! That is the funniest thing I have ever heard!!! Even the oldest of the old cars had spark advance.

      I didn't say CARS, I said engines. There is no reason for me to limit myself to cars to point out your obvious total failure to understand the subject. A simple, bare bones lawnmower engine is all it takes to show how completely off base you are here.

      How else could the engine accelerate? Gas burns at the same rate wether you have 1 part fuel or 20 parts fuel.

      BY CHANGING THE AMOUNT OF AIR AND FUEL YOU'RE BURNING!
      Man, you've got no freakin clue. Keep digging, this is great!

      That is incorrect. If you have extra torque at the WHEEL the car will accelerate, if you have extra torque at the CRANK the force is wasted by spining the torque converter.

      This is nonsense again. It you add all your forces together and there's some left over, SOMETHING'S going to accelerate. This is really basic physics. It may be true that there's no reason you would want the engine to spin any faster than it currently is, but that doesn't change the fact that it WILL change speed in the presence of unbalanced forces.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    17. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      Given that logic a vehicle may be able to start moving, but as soon as the momentum from the flywheel was effectively countered the car would stop moving.

      No.
      You missed the point.
      Your engine needs to run at a certain minimum RPM in order to sustain operation. If your flywheel has enough momentum, it can allow your car to stay within that range under a temporary load that is greater than the engine's ability to create torque and stay within that range.

      Of course it's possible to set you idle ridiculously high, waste gas, and therefore have significant extra power at idle (a "high" idle) but this just means your engine is being managed poorly. The solution to that is to manage the engine properly. There's no reason to install an expensive hybrid system if you're not coing to control the engine properly in the first place.

      Okay, here's one for you guys. If I put my car in neutral, and put the gas half way to the floor, it will spin up to 4000+ rpms.

      Which means that *gasp* IT ACCELERATED!

      Now if you were to increase the load on the engine, guess what? It's going to decellerate.

      Eventually you'll reach an equilibrium state where the forces balance out. This is what I've been saying all along. If your engine is running at a constant RPM, all the forces are in balance, period.

      You guys are both trying to apply partial armchair physics.

      I'm trying to explain a very simple concept to someone who isn't getting it. It's called "Newton's First Law". (You may have heard of it.)

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    18. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 1

      "Okay, here's one for you guys. If I put my car in neutral, and put the gas half way to the floor, it will spin up to 4000+ rpms.

      Which means that *gasp* IT ACCELERATED!"


      Correct, when I step on the gas, the throttle body butterfly valve opens, increasing pressure in the manifold which causes the spark to advance, so that the explosion will occur earlier, have more force and accelerate the engine, which will suck in more air/fuel mixture which will provide more power at that RPM.

      "I'm trying to explain a very simple concept to someone who isn't getting it. It's called "Newton's First Law". (You may have heard of it.)"

      I have, and you have two. I have been purposfully glancing over the physics of this because it is vastly deeper then you are thinking. Like I said, you are applying "partial armchair physics." You have applied Newtons first law to part of the equation, but you are completely ignoring gas dynamics. We are dealing with expanding gas. That is the premise that gas engines opperate under. When gasious gas oxidizes, it expands rapidly. If there is nothing opposing that force, then the energy is wasted in the form of heat. But when you enclose that explosion, you can make the energy produce a directional force. When your tranny is in nuetral, there is no load on the engine, so the only force opposing the explosion of gas is the engine friction you guys mentioned, and the force it takes to spin the torque converter. The rest of the energy is lost as heat right out the exhaust.
      Once you put a load on the engine, it becomes more efficient in that it has to expend more force to move the piston and there is less wasted energy going out the exhaust. That is what this device is doing, when your engine has no load (ie: while breaking or in nuetral) it puts a small load on the engine to recover some of the energy that would have been lost to exhaust.

      So, my engine spinning at 4000rpms is as you say, producing a net 0ft/lbs of torque, but it's capable of producing 200ft/lbs if a 200ft/lbs load was placed on it. If a 250ft/lbs load was placed on it, it would deccelerate until it either produced 250ft/lbs, or started turning backwards (rut roh!)

      I can't find the damn numbers on gas combustion speeds, but lets say (completely hypothetical numbers) that it takes ~ .1 seconds to burn a half liter of 14:1 air fuel mixture. And lets say you have a 4 cylinder naturally asperated (no turbo) 2.4l engine (.6l / cylinder). Stroke 1 will suck in .6l, stroke 2 will compress that .6l to lets say .06l (10:1 compression). Just as the piston hit's top dead center, the spark is ignited, the gas begins it's expansion right at TDC. for ~ .1 seconds the gas tries to expand at X ft/second, any thing that limits that expansion will increase the force applied against the piston. But at the end of that .1 seconds, the gas is spent. But it only takes .06 seconds per rotation (at 1000rpms). So what happens to the extra .04 seconds of burn? tossed out the exhaust when the exhaust valves open at the end of the power stroke. stroke 4 then pushes the spent and unspent fuel out the exhaust.
      But then what? You advance the spark timing. Advancing the spark timing by .01 second allows you to have the combustion starting before TDC, which means you will have expansion occuring while the combustion chamber is at the smallest size, which means more pressure (force) which accelerates the engine. The engine spins faster, sucks more air per minute, but still sucks the exact same amount of air/fuel per rotation that it always did.

      The flywheel, by the way, is designed to keep just enough momentum to make sure that the engine doesn't try to switch directions when the spark occurs before the cylinder hits top dead center. The flywheel(on modern cars) will not help in any measurable way if you drop the clutch to fast.

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    19. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 1

      " didn't say CARS, I said engines. There is no reason for me to limit myself to cars to point out your obvious total failure to understand the subject. A simple, bare bones lawnmower engine is all it takes to show how completely off base you are here."

      I already posted on this. A lawnmower engine is a single speed 2 stroke engine. The throttle on it is a power throttle, it alters the air flow into the combustion chamber. By having the handle pointed at "rabbit" you are providing it the 'correct' amount of air/fuel mixture for the combustion chamber size and stroke (ie: a 20cc 2stroke will intake 20 cubic centimeters of air/fuel mixture per cycle). When you point the handle at "tortoise" you are reducing the air flow to say, 15cc. This doesn't alter the speed of the lawnmower so much as it makes it weaker, it goes from having 5hp to 3.5hp. And if it takes 5hp to keep that blade spinning at 500rpm, and you drop the power down to 3.5hp then the engine will slow down to what ever speed the net forces (+3.5hp coming from the engin, -3.5horses coming from torquing the blade, air resistance, and grass resistance) cancel out at.

      "BY CHANGING THE AMOUNT OF AIR AND FUEL YOU'RE BURNING! Man, you've got no freakin clue. Keep digging, this is great!" A 4 cylinder 2.4l engine has 4 cylinders that displace .6l each. No matter how fast that engine is turning, on each intake stroke each cylinder will suck in .6l. Period. That's it. No more. you can not change the amount of air/fuel mixture being burnt each cycle (with out the aid of a turbo or super charger). You can change how much air is taken in per minute, but for every 2 rotations the engine will be burning 2.4l of air/fuel mixture. At 1000rpms that's 1200l of air/fuel mixture, at 6000rpms that's 7200l of air/fuel mixture, but each 2 rotations is still only 2.4l

      "This is nonsense again. It you add all your forces together and there's some left over, SOMETHING'S going to accelerate. This is really basic physics. It may be true that there's no reason you would want the engine to spin any faster than it currently is, but that doesn't change the fact that it WILL change speed in the presence of unbalanced forces."

      This is why partial armchair physics rairly works. You are not adding ALL of the energy in this equation, you have left out heat. Which is the hum duzzie! That "extra" energy is piped out the exhaust system. Again, check my other post in this thread.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    20. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      Correct, when I step on the gas, the throttle body butterfly valve opens, increasing pressure in the manifold which causes the spark to advance, so that the explosion will occur earlier, have more force and accelerate the engine, which will suck in more air/fuel mixture which will provide more power at that RPM.

      The PRIMARY reason your engine has more force is because YOU'RE BURNING MORE FUEL.
      When you open the valve, the engine can suck in more air mass per unit time. The carb/efi senses this and adds more fuel.

      Spark advance is just fine tuning. To say that spark advance is what actually causes an engine to accelerate is just not the way it is. I'm not saying you can't get some minor change in your idle by playing around with spark advance, I'm saying it's simply a way of fine tuning the combustion, whereas your throttle is actually in control.

      To see this from another viewpoint, consider a turbocharged engine. These often need to have the ignition retarded WHILE they are accelerating. If spark advance is the cause of acceleration, this simply would not work.

      I have, and you have two. I have been purposfully glancing over the physics of this because it is vastly deeper then you are thinking. Like I said, you are applying "partial armchair physics." You have applied Newtons first law to part of the equation, but you are completely ignoring gas dynamics. We are dealing with expanding gas. That is the premise that gas engines opperate under. When gasious gas oxidizes, it expands rapidly. If there is nothing opposing that force, then the energy is wasted in the form of heat.

      Are here's where you start going WAY off track. If you're in an equilibrium state and you add more drag on the engine's rotation, you're simple going to have to push the engine harder to make up for the additional force. I never said an engine can't operate more efficiently than when it's operating at idle, just that you're going to have to add more fuel to overcome the extra drag. The energy to power this thing is not "free" except in the case of regerative braking.


      So what happens to the extra .04 seconds of burn? tossed out the exhaust when the exhaust valves open at the end of the power stroke. stroke 4 then pushes the spent and unspent fuel out the exhaust. But then what? You advance the spark timing. Advancing the spark timing by .01 second allows you to have the combustion starting before TDC, which means you will have expansion occuring while the combustion chamber is at the smallest size, which means more pressure (force) which accelerates the engine. The engine spins faster, sucks more air per minute, but still sucks the exact same amount of air/fuel per rotation that it always did.

      Using spark advance as a means of controlling your idle would be silly and is not the way it is done. It's smarter to use the best value for spark advance that you have at all times and adjust to amont of air and fuel entering the engine via the bypass air control valve and the fuel injectors.

      I sugeest you take at look at either one of there books:
      How to Tune and Modify Engine Managements Systems
      Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management

      You seem to know where the parts are and have an idea what they do, but if you do some research, I'm sure you'll eventually see the light on this particular issue.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    21. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by RingDev · · Score: 1

      "The PRIMARY reason your engine has more force is because YOU'RE BURNING MORE FUEL. When you open the valve, the engine can suck in more air mass per unit time. The carb/efi senses this and adds more fuel."

      You can burn more fuel over time, but you can not burn more fuel per cycle. More air/fuel is the RESULT of acceleration, not the cause.

      A cylinder that displaces half a liter of space will only ever be able to burn .5l of air/fuel mixture. Period. You can not magically "burn more fuel". You can only burn .5l per cylinder per cycle. In order to burn more air you have to accelerate the engine. You accelerate the engine by improving the efficiency of the engine (advancing timing).

      "Using spark advance as a means of controlling your idle would be silly and is not the way it is done."

      Base spark advance does control your idle, That's how you set your timing. You set set the timing to the manufacture specs of degrees before top-dead-center. So at idle my car sparks at 4 degrees advance. When I step on the gas it can advance to 20+ degrees before top dead center.This is what control acceleration. When the combustion occurs at higher pressure, it creates a greater force which gets you more force, which accelerates the engine.

      " adjust to amont of air and fuel entering the engine via the bypass air control valve"

      An engine is a pump, it sucks air in, it pumps exhaust out. A 350 will suck in 350 cubic inches of air and expell 350 cubic inches of exhaust every cycle. Wether that air comes in through the throttle body, exhaust gas recovery, or air bypass, it still is only going to suck 350 cubic inches of air.

      "To see this from another viewpoint, consider a turbocharged engine. These often need to have the ignition retarded WHILE they are accelerating. If spark advance is the cause of acceleration, this simply would not work."

      You have to look at TOTAL advance. Turbos create super high pressures in the combustion chamber, so high that igniting it too early will cause the explosion to push the piston in the wrong direction, causing Ping (pre-det). When the boost controler retards timing, it reduces the advance, but the combustion still occurs before top dead center.

      There is one thing you need to realise, a .5liter cylinder can only burn .5l of air/fuel mixture per revolution. That's it. No matter how much power the engine is capable of, no matter how fast it's spinning, no matter how far down you have the gas, that cylinder will ONLY burn .5l of air fuel mixture.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    22. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      You can burn more fuel over time, but you can not burn more fuel per cycle. More air/fuel is the RESULT of acceleration, not the cause.

      This is simply not true. The amount of air you suck into your engine is a function of two things:
      Your engine RPM
      How far open your throttle is

      This seems to be the source of your misunderstanding. The amount of air a 3L engine sucks in at 3,000 RPM depends on how much restriction there is in the intake path. Your throttle is a controlled restriction.

      An engine is a pump, it sucks air in, it pumps exhaust out. A 350 will suck in 350 cubic inches of air and expell 350 cubic inches of exhaust every cycle. Wether that air comes in through the throttle body, exhaust gas recovery, or air bypass, it still is only going to suck 350 cubic inches of air.

      That's just not how fluid mechanics works. Flow rate is affected both by pressure differential AND by resistance to flow.

      There is one thing you need to realise, a .5liter cylinder can only burn .5l of air/fuel mixture per revolution. That's it. No matter how much power the engine is capable of, no matter how fast it's spinning, no matter how far down you have the gas, that cylinder will ONLY burn .5l of air fuel mixture.

      It's funny that you would say this, right after discussing turbocharged engines. Technically, you're correct since combustion chamber volume isn't getting any bigger, but a turbo engine WILL suck in more air than it's displacment. In the cylinder the volume will still be the same, but the actual amount/mass of air is greater.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    23. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by SirSlud · · Score: 1

      > It you add all your forces together and there's some left over, SOMETHING'S going to accelerate.

      Heat?

      --
      "Old man yells at systemd"
    24. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by SirSlud · · Score: 1

      Its more simple, like this:

      When you stop, you make things hot. Imagine energy that you can recoup; your car spends energy, but lots of it goes into things that we can't recapture immediately.

      The first law says that energy is conserved, in a fully closed system, but the heat and noise (note how playing music uses energy) of a system represent the energy we cannot get back in most common technologies.

      If this alternator can be engaged the moment you want to stop, and allows the part in a car that spins and drives the wheels to be slowed down by this device rather than friction, then you have a winner. Imagine a device that could stop the shaft the nanosecond you no longer want to turn the wheels (and maybe even stop them) .. something that could be wound with as little frictional interference as possible, and store the energy. A flywheel? Something that stores, then returns the energy to you?

      People keep talking about conserving the energy in the system, but much of it is wasted, and some of it can be stored, inefficiently these days, to keep it INSIDE the system.

      You are have to remember that we're controlling energy here; the motor is a good example. You're willingly saying goodbye to potentially recoverable energy. The law of conservation is important, but we have to remember the original intent of motors; to provide energy, period. Some of it is wasted, and its possible through various technologies to keep that energy in the system as much as possible. Think of it; to listen to you, venting air into the interior of the vehicle requires more energy from the motor. Of course not, that energy would have just heated the car or its environment if we didn't use technology to transfer the energy otherwise wasted to a practical place.

      --
      "Old man yells at systemd"
    25. Re:aftermarket regenerative braking? by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      When you stop, you make things hot. Imagine energy that you can recoup; your car spends energy, but lots of it goes into things that we can't recapture immediately.

      I'm not arguing against regenerative braking. Regenerative braking is a good idea.

      My point is that if you're sitting there ALREADY stopped at a light and you decide to start charging this system, you're going to have to burn more fuel to make up for the increased load on the engine.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
  10. FAS? by CohibaVancouver · · Score: 2, Interesting
    Is this similar to the "flywheel alternator starter hybrid system (FAS)"?

    See:
    http://www.hybridcars.com/silverado-sierra.html

    1. Re:FAS? by Infinityis · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Not really...FAS uses an electric between the engine and transmission. The Electrocharger was going to simply replace the alternator with a more sophisticated motor--much simpler and more accessible in terms of converting older vehicles.

  11. This is silly by alienw · · Score: 1

    Even factory-made hybrid cars don't get 15mpg over the straight gas-powered one. Ask anyone who owns a hybrid Accord. The EPA estimates are way off; the actual difference in mileage between the two versions is very small.

    This product will be fairly useless, because it seems to just drive the engine crankshaft, and is powered from supercaps. There are three major problems with this approach: the amount of energy the capacitor can store is very small, the electric motor will have to work against the gas engine's compression, and you won't even get regenerative braking because the transmission will just downshift when you slow down. This device is very unlikely to increase gas mileage.

    1. Re:This is silly by KILNA · · Score: 1

      Well, it help could at low RPMs where energy output for fuel consumed is quite poor (which is why I think they made the statement that it would help with city driving but I didn't see any claims WRT highway).

      --
      Error: PANTS NOT FOUND. Press <F1> to continue.
    2. Re:This is silly by Infinityis · · Score: 4, Informative

      Two things, it would be relatively useless in terms of mpg because you still have the same base engine, so you can't really do better than your highway mpg. That's why it was marketed as a performance product--electric motors deliver excellent low-end torque. Second, the storage was not just ultracapacitor, but a passive combination of ultracapacitor and battery...that part was pretty innovative in that it's a hybrid battery pack for a hybrid car.

    3. Re:This is silly by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's because Honda's hybrid technology is exceptionally poor. Toyota's Prius gives me a consistent 56-60mpg depending on whether it is urban or highway driving, which is easily 20mpg better than an equivalent petrol car of the same size.

      Nigel

  12. An alternator IS an electric motor... by bergeron76 · · Score: 1

    In reverse. The belts turn the motor, which generates electricity.

    --
    Don't think that a small group of dedicated individuals can't change the world. It's the only thing that ever has.
  13. There's some BS on the site by photon317 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    There is the remote possibility that it can have some benefits. The basic idea is vaguely sound. However, they're fond of making wildly inaccurate statements on their website, so I'd take any specific claims with a grain of salt.

    My favorite FAQ is:


    Q. Is the Electrocharger(TM) a performance upgrade?

    A. Yes, it decreases your 0-60 time by a minimum of 3 seconds and sheds at least 3 seconds off your 1/4 mile time, over stock vehicle performance.


    This is of course an outrageous statement to make without qualifications. My current vehicle does 0-60 in about 4.2 seconds. There is no way in hell that thing is going to give me a 1.2 second 0-60. Perhaps on a car that goes 0-60 much much slower, then maybe you could shave 3 seconds, but even then that sounds like an awful lot.
    --
    11*43+456^2
    1. Re:There's some BS on the site by R2.0 · · Score: 1

      The 3 second claim is bullshit no matter what you are driving. I used to drive a Jetta diesel: 0-60 measures by an hourglass. I could have strapped a JATO on the roof and gotten the ET down, but this thing is the 100 mpg carb all over again.

      --
      "As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
    2. Re:There's some BS on the site by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      Yeah, I think those initial calculations were based on a Hummer, then assumed constant for all vehicles---not a good assumption to make. Like you'll find throughout my posts in this topic, while I worked there I didn't like how much of the information was presented, nor how inaccurate much of it seemed to be. I think the product (if it were ever finished) would have sold itself just as well (probably better) without all the hype.

  14. Total BS by marktwen0 · · Score: 1

    From the footnotes: Hints that they sold the technology to BMW without actually saying so; "our programmer"--just one, eh?. The whole site gives the impression of a penny stock scam. Finally, do you really think it will be a good idea to put so much torque on the crankshaft without upgrading the front bearing? Also, how exactly are you supposed to extend your crankshaft in order to mount the required sproket--and why no mention of whether or not they supply the needed aftermarket sprocket and chain?

    1. Re:Total BS by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Finally, do you really think it will be a good idea to put so much torque on the crankshaft without upgrading the front bearing?

      Dude, the front bearing can take a lot more stress than a belt spinning 10 or 15 ft/lbs of torque to it. Holy hell. It has to withstand at least some of the torquing pressures throughout the whole engine when you step on the friggin gas. Get a clue.

      Also, how exactly are you supposed to extend your crankshaft in order to mount the required sproket

      Scope out how a typical pulley is placed on front of the crank to begin with. 4 bolts, maybe 5, with a centering nub. So how do you mount this? You replace your main pulley assembly. Geesh.

      You know, for geeks, you guys ask quite a few questions. Stop being dipshits, and think about it before you post.

    2. Re:Total BS by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      Parent poster is right on both counts...we actually checked with Ford or GM (I don't remember which), and for the torques we specified, they said we were well under the mechanical limits. Apparently they count on people abusing^H^H^H^Hsouping up their cars.

      -Dave

    3. Re:Total BS by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      Wow, thanks for pointing that out...I have no idea what they're talking about. We had talked to BMW for awhile, but not specifically about the Electrocharger...and I don't know who the programmer is that they're referring to. I also never heard anything about a Mitsubishi EVO, or who are the "guys working diligently"... Of course, I could simply be out of the loop--not likely since I did the research on the battery/ultracapacitor pack and they haven't talked to me for awhile.

      Those updates at the bottom are quite interesting to read, and I honestly can't confirm or deny them (since I've been back at Texas A&M since Fall 2004), but I can say that it's news to me.

      -David

  15. Very unlikely it does what they say... by LoRdTAW · · Score: 1

    Does the Slashdot community think an electric motor replacing the alternator on an internal combustion engine will add 5, 10, or even 15 mpg?

    Maybe. Even at their low 5mpg I find it hard that a small alternator sized motor could produce any more then 5 HP for short periods without needing serious cooling. This looks like it could only benefit very small light weight cars. A few mpg in city driving on a small Honda Civic like vehicle in the city might see some improvement if it does what it is supposed to do. There claims that it could help SUV is questionable. I own a 95 Chevy Tahoe (It is heavily used in our business so I need it) and it averages 10mpg. It weighs about 5000 pounds (2268 kilos) empty. Getting 5mpg more out of it will require allot of effort to see a 50% improvement. They don't produce any specifications on torque output so I would be a little skepticle.

    How well do you think the super capacitor battery pack will hold up at -20 degrees Fahrenheit?

    I don't know what they mean by "Super Capacitor Battery Pack" because a capacitor and a battery are 2 different components. Yes a capacitor is stores a charge like a battery but how is it a capacitor battery? I think they might mean the dc-dc inverter is bi directional and can use the cars battery in tandem with the capacitor bank. Capacitors do hold there charge even under extreme cold temperatures. Heavy trucks sometimes use capacitor banks to assist in very cold weather cranking.

    Does this have the potential to be an environmental friend or disaster (how long does the battery pack last)?

    If it uses regular capacitors and they are used within spec then they could last for years and years without any problems.

    1. Re:Very unlikely it does what they say... by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      What we proposed was a passive combination of battery and ultracapacitor. Basically connecting them in series, with the idea that the ultracap will provide the power, the battery will provide the energy. Because the two components will be tied at the hip (i.e. voltage), it's more complicated than that, but theoretically, it's possible that there are benefits in doing so when you take into account internal resistances creating a hysteresis effect--that is, that the voltage drops simply because you draw power, then rises back up when you stop drawing power.

      Yeah, I didn't like the terminology much either while I worked there, and had hoped it might change to be more accurate/less misleading, but alas...

      P.S. I wouldn't expect much better miles per gallon unless your city vs. highway miles per gallon were significantly different.

  16. Mostly overhyped, somewhat functional by RingDev · · Score: 1

    This thing could help recapture some lost energy. By charging while the car is idling or breaking, it uses the energy that the engine would be wasting.

    As for power output? with a 42volt source I can't see this thing putting out more then 50ft/lbs at the crank (notice the reduction in pully size from the crank to the motor). Most likely less then that.

    That power is also only available for short periods of time. But that does make it good for accelerating.

    So, what I see this as a good idea for is vehicles like the "Smart Car". Those things rock. Specificly the 2 seat roadster. Anyways, those cars come with a turbo 3-cylinder engine that puts out a whooping 85hp. That is pretty pathetic, except that the car itself weighs in at only 1700lbs. That means that it's got an pretty exceptable power/weight ratio, but it's probrably a bit slow off the line (turbo lag), or if you have a second person in the vehicle. By tacking on an extra say 25ft/lbs of torque for 10 seconds, you could have a pretty dramatic effect on 0-60 times.

    For beefier vehicles, specificly those with plenty of low end torque, this won't help a bit.

    It also won't help at all for highway cruising. In a gas engine you need to keep the air/fuel mixture as close to 12.8 (Err was it 14? I'm getting my ratios screwed up) as possible to keep the engine running efficient. Too rich, and you waste fuel, to lean and you can have pre-det and damage the engine. And if you are going 60mph, your tranny will be spinning (depending on your gear ratios) 2500-3500 rpm, which means your engine will also be spinning that fast. And since the engine is spinning at that speed, it's sucking air at that speed (a gm 350 will suck 350 cubic inches of air every cycle), and fuel will have to be injected to match. Wether you are getting power from an electric motor, or the engine, that fuel is getting injected. Some engines are smart enough these days to turn off unused cyclinders though, so if it was integrated enough, there's a possibility it could help.

    I'm waiting for the dyno's to make up my mind on it. But from what I've seen/can figure, this could be a great performance add on to light weight, high RPM vehicles.

    -Rick

    --
    "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
  17. Of course it'll work by qbwiz · · Score: 2, Funny

    That belt will obviously be able to transfer huge amounts of force. And of course, it'll be easy to retrofit and replace the existing serpentine belt.

    --
    Ewige Blumenkraft.
    1. Re:Of course it'll work by Enrico+Pulatzo · · Score: 1

      Oh thank goodness, for a while there I thought all of the posts would just be sarcasm or nay-saying...

    2. Re:Of course it'll work by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      Actually, we were working with Gates Corporation (www.gates.com) and they seemed fairly confident that they could handle the belt issues.

      Or course, I'm an electrical guy and my work there focused mostly on the battery/ultracapacitor pack, so I'm not familiar with how they would handle it...

      -Daivd

    3. Re:Of course it'll work by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      Or course, I'm an electrical guy and my work there focused mostly on the battery/ultracapacitor pack, so I'm not familiar with how they would handle it...

      So if you're the eletrical guy, how many volts & amps was this thing running?

      To make any real difference you power input has to be HUGE... many thousands of watts. 1,000 watts is only 1.34 horsepower. If you want even a mere ten horse power on a 12V system you're talking about 833 AMPs or current.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    4. Re:Of course it'll work by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      First, double check the math. 1000W/12V = 83.3A

      The maximum we looked at was 15 horsepower (approx 12kW). We were also going to use a 42V system. This worked out to just under 300 amps max. This isn't even much of a concern because you'd only use this much current if you try to add a lot of torque at when the car is redlining. Most people tend not to redline their car. The typical driver might never use more than 150 to 200 amps (but we'd design it to handle 300, at least for a short duration).

      The benefit comes in at lower speeds, when even smaller amounts of power (like 15hp) at low speeds translate into high torque. Keep in mind that when you buy a car with a 300hp engine, that power rating happens at a particular speed and torque, and says nothing about low end torque capabilities.

      With an electric motor, torque is maximum at low speeds. With an engine, torque is maximum at high speeds. THAT is why the two devices complement each other so well, and the motor does not need a very large power rating to do it's job well.

      Also, the currents mentioned are reasonable...a starter can draw up to about twice that much, and we'd use bigger wires than that to cut down the resistance. I admit, I would personally liked to have used a much higher voltage and drop the current WAY down (much like the commercial hybrids on the market), but because this was an aftermarket product, and we didn't want people killed during installation, we had to limit the voltage for safety reasons.

    5. Re:Of course it'll work by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      First, double check the math. 1000W/12V = 83.3A

      My math is correct.

      Yes, 1000W is only 83.3 amps, but that's just barely over one measly horsepower. I was talking about 10kW. This is why I said 833 amps. One horsepower is a freakin joke.

      This isn't even much of a concern because you'd only use this much current if you try to add a lot of torque at when the car is redlining. Most people tend not to redline their car.

      Is or is not this thing being billed as a performance upgrade? I thought it was.

      the motor does not need a very large power rating to do it's job well.

      Power is power.
      Ah yes, here's the quote:
      Yes, it decreases your 0-60 time by a minimum of 3 seconds and sheds at least 3 seconds off your 1/4 mile time, over stock vehicle performance.
      *cough* bullshit *cough*
      17 peak horsepower is going to drop 3 seconds off my zero to sixty time?

      a starter can draw up to about twice that much

      A starter is a really bad choice to use for an example. It only needs to be able to operate for a few seconds, your system does not. If you ran your starter continuously, bad things would happen. Raising the voltage to 42 definately helps, but even then you're talking about pounds of copper. Given that you have to deal with underhood temperatures, that's probably 00 guage or thicker copper wire.
      That, or you're going to have to track the duty cycle of you system (lost utility) or use high temp wiring (lost efficiency).
      because this was an aftermarket product, and we didn't want people killed during installation, we had to limit the voltage for safety reasons.

      That sucks. IMO you guys would have been better off with a much higher voltage and a really good safety system, but at that point you would have hit mechanical problems, so i suppose it's a wash.

      I can see the potential for modifying an aletnator to generate more power under enginer braking, it's a cleaver idea, but some one the calim being made are irresponsible.

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    6. Re:Of course it'll work by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      I agree about the "expected performance"...if you read my other posts in this topic, you'll see that I don't even think it's a serious claim.

      However, it is fitting to consider it a performance upgrade because of the increase in low-end torque. If you only stop at the level of "power is power" and refuse to consider that power = torque * speed, and that for electric motors, torque is maximized at low speeds, then I'll be unable to convince you that there is a real performance boost at low speeds.

      Just for comparison, the Prius only has a 30kW motor (twice the power of what we planned). Yet they use this motor for accelerating the car up to about 20mph or so, then turn on the engine. If 30kW (by itself) can perform normal acceleration, and we're proposing to add half of that to your vehicle (which can accelerate just fine by itself), then yes, I'd call that a good performance boost.

      That's also why it's safe to make comparisons to a starter. This device (should it ever exist) was not meant to assist at high speeds. Certainly it can, but because it's we're talking about high speed, there is MUCH less torque it can provide. If someone really wants that little torque at high speeds (near engine redline) then fine, they can, but they'll be putting just as much stress on the wires as they put on their engine. Also, notice that typically, drivers will use about 150 amps. If we consider that this is 1/4 of the 600 amps PbA batteries can provide for starting, then if we calculate the resistance losses in the wire (which is directly proportional to the heat they produce), we find that Power = (Current^2)*(Resistance), so typically, the power lost through wiring is about (1/4)^2=1/16 compared to that for the starter wiring.

      Yeah, I wish(ed) it were higher voltage too, but regardless, even at 42V it can work reasonably well. But the power rating is spot-on. And the claims...yeah, I don't agree with them either. Even if (somehow) they turn out to be true, you'd still have to have racing slicks to take advantage of that kind of acceleration.

    7. Re:Of course it'll work by theLOUDroom · · Score: 1

      Just for comparison, the Prius only has a 30kW motor (twice the power of what we planned). Yet they use this motor for accelerating the car up to about 20mph or so, then turn on the engine. If 30kW (by itself) can perform normal acceleration, and we're proposing to add half of that to your vehicle (which can accelerate just fine by itself), then yes, I'd call that a good performance boost.

      We'll have to agree to disagree here. The name "electrocharger" is obviously meant to appeal to those who compare it with a turbocharger or supercharger. When compared to the power gains prodived by those devices, it just doesn't measure up.

      This device (should it ever exist) was not meant to assist at high speeds.

      I'm not so worried about high speeds as I am with stop and go traffic. Imagine I start from a stop, drive 1000 feet, stop and repeat indefinately. Current's flowing through the wires both when I'm stopping and when I'm starting. If I pick the right frequency of starts and stops, and pick the right acceleration and decelleration rates I can push the duty cycle of your system to 100%.
      Either it has to sense this and shut down or the wiring has to be big enough to handle this. Anything else is a safety hazard.
      (And you wouldn't really want it to shut down since this would be the condition where your system would provide the greatest possible MPG increase.)

      --
      Life is too short to proofread.
    8. Re:Of course it'll work by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      I suppose I'll agree to disagree on the definiton as well then...

      As to the worries in stop and go traffic, since we're not operating anywhere near peak power (because peak power happens when we're about to redline), we won't be operating anywhere near peak current...it will cycle from 0 to about 125amps, then go to -125 when you regen and head back to (about) 0 when you're stopped, and using very rough math, that puts it at about 60-70 amps on the average (I'd normally calculate the root-mean-square current, but I don't care enough to do that at the moment, especially since I don't know what the current profile looks like). It won't take too much wiring to do that safely

  18. What about "alternating DC current"? by JavaRob · · Score: 1
    Also from the F.A.Q.:
    Q. Does the Electrocharger(TM) act as a DC Generator, or an AC alternator?
    A. Actually its neither and a little bit of both. The current generated by the ElectrochargerTM is an alternating DC current that is filtered to act more like a DC generator.
    Can anyone make any sense out of that?
    1. Re:What about "alternating DC current"? by Infinityis · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Yes, it makes sense. With a mechanically commutated motor (i.e. a DC motor that uses physical brushes and commutators.), you can just provide a DC voltage and it will happily run the motor. However, you can also have electrically commutated motors (Brushless DC, SRM, etc.) that run off a DC voltage but use a set of switches (MOSFETs) that need a motor controller to turn on and off the voltages seen by the coils of the motor. Thus, even though the battery is providing a constant DC voltage (as opposed to the 60Hz AC voltage your electrical outlet provides), the motor is reciving varying voltages from the motor controller.

      You can even do cooler stuff like using pulse-width modulation (turning on and off switches really fast) to make a DC source look like an AC source, with the benefit that you can control the frequency (which you can't do with your wall outlet). This would be useful for controlling the speed of an AC induction motor, although it can also be used (and has been used) to control brushless DC (BLDC) and switched reluctance motors (SRM).

  19. Snake Oil -- mostly by redelm · · Score: 1
    Yes, it sounds interesting and pluasibly could work on the surface. But it won't in reality. The Otto cycle (gasoline) engine is horribly inefficient when throttled (low maxT&P) and guzzles when idled. This device, even if enough power can be put through the fanbelt (I suspect more like 1 HP) just will drive the engine back on it's curve.

    OTOH, a similar device designed into an engine and used for peak shaving might allow the use of a much smaller (more efficient) gasoline engine by providing satisfactory peak (acceleration) power.

    1. Re:Snake Oil -- mostly by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      I completely agree. If you want to see a better engine overall, check out www.starrotor.com

      I know the professor leading the work on this (he's on my committee for my masters research), and it's based in pretty solid reality. Plus, because the Star Rotor engine is based on the Brayton cycle, it's got a fairly flat torque profile...that makes it an especially good candidate for hybridization with electric motors.

      FYI they can already do compressors, and the only thing keeping them from doing the engines right now is dealing with the heat in the expander. The expander is supposed to only allow the air to expand, but because the air is so hot, the expander itself increases in size, and the requirement of tight tolerances causes a few problems....not a showstopper, mind you, but just something to slow them down.

    2. Re:Snake Oil -- mostly by cr0sh · · Score: 1

      The problems you mention with starrotor sound similar to the problems facing (faced? are they still in business) the McMaster Motor system - ie, needing tight tolerances for the nutating disc...

      --
      Reason is the Path to God - Anon
    3. Re:Snake Oil -- mostly by Infinityis · · Score: 2, Informative

      Heh, there's a bunch of things about the McMaster Motor that are just plain wrong...for example, the total volume per chamber never changes. If you see a 2D animation, it might look like it, but that thing in the middle is basically a tilted plate that spins, so there is no volume displacement into or out of the chamber whatsoever.

      Also, their fuel source (hyrdogen and oxygen) is a problem...you'll note they say they'll use solar power to produce the oxygen and hydrogen and then use that to power the engine...unfortunately, unless you violate a few laws of thermodynamics, you'd be better off using the electrical energy directly, as every step (solar -> electricity -> hydrogen) introduces inefficiencies. Basically, if solar power is used as the input, that is the limiting factor for the maximum average power. And my experience on the solar car team says that right now, for something the size of a car, you don't get nearly enough power compared to the controlled combustion of hydrocarbons...

      Compare all that to the starrotor and there's a world of difference. Basically, the starrotor is a small jet engine with a funky-looking compressor and expander (common components on jet engines). Air is brought in and compressed, fuel is added, combustion occurs (pressure goes up), and so more pressure is put on the expander than was put on the compressor, and you have real work being done. The only reason tight tolerances are needed is because (for engine life reasons) they are designing the starrotor such that the inner rotor does not physically contact the outer rotor.

    4. Re:Snake Oil -- mostly by cr0sh · · Score: 1
      Heh, there's a bunch of things about the McMaster Motor that are just plain wrong...for example, the total volume per chamber never changes. If you see a 2D animation, it might look like it, but that thing in the middle is basically a tilted plate that spins, so there is no volume displacement into or out of the chamber whatsoever.

      Are you certain about this? From what I understand, nutating plate "engines" are all around us and work well - they just work on water or gas - as in being used to drive the meters on our water and gas metering systems at our homes.

      Instead of water or gas, the working fluid is the expansion of an ignited fuel (like a regular engine). From email conversations I have had with people at McMaster, they said the driving source could be nearly anything - common gasoline, steam power, or even air (they said they had a demo model that ran great on compressed air).

      I do agree with your stance on the hydrogen - electrolysis of water is not the way to make hydrogen and use the energy effectively - there are much better ways...

      --
      Reason is the Path to God - Anon
  20. There's a connection... by Infinityis · · Score: 5, Informative

    There's no rat, but there's no Electrocharger either, and the plans to produce it are currently scrapped.

    The connection between Sigma Automotive and Texas A&M is--in a word--me.

    You can check out all this with google, here's the facts: I am a grad student at Texas A&M, and my name is David Hoelscher. I work on power electronics and motor drives under Dr. Ehsani. A year and a half ago we got a visit from a man named Michael Van Steenburg, and he had an idea to make retro-fittable hybrid electric vehicles, ala replacing the alternator. The reason he came to Texas A&M is because Ehsani specializes (or specialized?) in switched reluctance motor (SRM) drives.

    As an aside: SRM drives are basically a rugged motor drive--they don't need any magnets, so there's no demagnetization problem. Basically the idea is that when you put a paramagnetic material in a magnetic field, the material will temporarily magnetize and align with the field as much as possible (you can find more on paramagnetic at Wikipedia). To achive this, the rotor has to have salient poles--that is, it must physically have a toothed surface. And when you combine a toothed surface and large magnetic forces, you get a loud noise, which is THE biggest problem with SRM.

    Back to the subject at hand though...so Mike wanted to use SRM motors because the alternator is near the engine (which is hot) and there's nothing to demagnetize. Ehsani knows motors, but he doesn't manufacture them. In fact, not many companies manufacture them. In this case, he found an company, International USA, who could manufacture them. So things are looking good.

    Summer 2004, I take off a summer to work with them, specifically sizing the battery/ultracapacitor pack and determining the best type of battery to use, etc. But every step of the way, the delivery date for the test motor drives is pushed back. The work by International was unfunded, as the company was incredibly small and funding was tight (you can see how small by checking out the contact page: http://www.ecolectrictechnology.com/contactus.htm and yes, I'm the Dave).

    At some point, the web page information showed up on Sigma Automotive, and then on Slashdot--I admit, I was surprised when a lab mate told me he read about it in a major news outlet (I hadn't checked Slashdot yet on that day). FYI, the actual webpage for the company is www.ecolectrictechnology.com

    We also went out to the SEMA show in Las Vegas, but the most we had to show was a mock-up on an engine--at this point, I had been back at school a few months and just answered questions here and there, maintained contacts, but was largely out of the day-to-day business.

    About the start of 2005, key personnel for our product at International had left the company, so there was no one left to work on it, and even if there was, there still wasn't money to pay them.

    Since then, the project has been dead in the water. As for me, I'm finishing up my research at A&M and starting the job hunt. If anyone's looking to hire a Masters EE with a power electronics/motor drives background, 5 years of experience building solar cars, and 6 years experience software development, feel free to email me at david dot hoelscher at gmail dot com

    The original idea is still a good one, albeit a bit complicated. For example, to add much torque to the driveshaft, there needs to be a significant upgrade to the belt that used to run the alternator, which in turn (likely) requires a new pully, and changing out a lot of belts. The motor drive itself has to fit in the place of the old alternator, so there are size restrictions there. Also, the motor controller needs to go SOMEWHERE, preferably close to the motor but not in the engine compartment. Finally, a mass air flow sensor (or something) needs to be used to determine when to run the motor and when to regenerate. All that while keeping the costs reasonable.

    If you factor in that t

  21. Fahrenheit?? by paulatz · · Score: 1

    There are 5 bilion and 600 milions people who don't use Fahrenheit degrees. -20 degrees Fahrenheit = -28.8888889 degrees Celsius

    --
    this post contain no useful information, no need to mod it down
  22. Bullshit. by Eivind · · Score: 1
    It's bullshit now, just as it was back then. If a relatively simple additional part like this one could actually increase mileage significantly, then the car-manufacturers would actually use it.

    Maybe not in the US, but here in Europe, with current fuel-prices hovering around 6$/gallon (not a typo --six-- dollars) I can promise you some people are more than "sligthly" interested in better fuel-economy.

    Apart from that, there's too many claims that are simple nonsensical no matter how you turn and twist it, and no matter what technology you're talking of. For example:

    • Claims to improve mpg by *atleast* 5, without any qualifiers as to type of vehicle. For a large and heavy vehicle like a heavy SUV that would require an improvement of like 50%, not bloody likely.

    • Also claims to improve acceleration 0-60 by a *minimum* of 3 seconds. I guess this means if you've got a lamborghini that can do it in 4 seconds without this thing, it'll do it in 1 second *with* the thing. And that's the claimed minimum improvement. Fit the thing to a F1-car and it'll be going 60 *before* it's started.
    You don't need a science-degree to see that any product that a) doesn't actually exist and b) are marketed with such claims is nothing other than bullshit.
  23. Not really by TamMan2000 · · Score: 1

    Not only that, but calling that equation "simple" is ludicrous to the point of stupidity.

    I could be wrong, but I am guessing you don't spend much time around mechanical designers. I used to be an analyst at a company that makes jet engines. I was in computaional anaysis, but the old school empierical guys used equations that make that one look like 8th grade math. In my professional opinion as a mechanical engineer, that equation is simple.

    --
    "I'll have a Guinness, no wait, make that a Coors Light" -Grad student I work with, who shall remain anonymous...
    1. Re:Not really by elmegil · · Score: 1

      So I suppose the question is who is the audience for that website. It looked to me like the audience was the general public, hence my reaction (well that and not being an ME). If it was simply a glorified report for class, then I'd concede that you're right.

      --
      7 November 2006: The day Americans realized corruption and incompetence weren't addressing 11 September 2001
  24. Seems to be a bit of a lack of focus by ahem · · Score: 1

    The commerce aspects of SigmaAuto are shared with:

    Aquaristics
    BOSSBi
    Earthority
    NanoRC
    SmartCarisma

    so, whatever they're selling, they're selling a lot of different things.

    Fishier and fishier said Alice.

    --
    Not A Sig
  25. More BS on the site by UnapprovedThought · · Score: 1
    The one that gets me is the Super FuelMAX magnet that goes over the fuel line that:
    when installed over the fuel line, will fracture the hydrocarbon chains in the passing fuel

    It's worth reading that page for a good laugh though. A link to it: http://www.sigmaautomotive.com/IRD/superfuelmax.ph p

    If you're looking for something real, I think Valeo (recently had a piece on lemonde.fr) already has something along these lines.

    1. Re:More BS on the site by SirSlud · · Score: 1

      It looks like that stupid magnet bracelet for a car! ROFL!

      --
      "Old man yells at systemd"
  26. It's ready to be realeased, just waiting on.. by SillySnake · · Score: 2, Interesting
    programers.. It's at the very very bottom of the site in small letters.. I quote..

    "Sept 7th, '05: Technically, the maker is ready to launch this device but their hands are tied until the programmer is done refining the software. Please be patient."

  27. For the full story... by Infinityis · · Score: 1

    Hey guys, just so you know, if you want the heads up on all this, look at the replies I've posted...I was actually involved with the project, so they'll probably be your best source of information about it. In one of the replies, I even lay out the whole story (the reply to the topic "No connection")...

  28. You don't seem to understand how an engine works. by i41Overlord · · Score: 1

    You don't seem to understand the basic principles of how a gasoline engine works. On a gas engine, you do not control the RPM's with the spark advance, you control it by limiting airflow.

    You can burn more fuel over time, but you can not burn more fuel per cycle. More air/fuel is the RESULT of acceleration, not the cause.You can burn more fuel over time, but you can not burn more fuel per cycle. More air/fuel is the RESULT of acceleration, not the cause.

    Incorrect. More air/fuel is the result of opening the throttle body, which allows more air to rush into the engine, and you can therefore burn more fuel. An engine is NOT always sucking in the same amount of air/fuel. There is usually some amount of manifold vacuum because of the sucking force of the pistons on the intake stroke and the throttle body which will only let as much air past as you allow.

    A cylinder that displaces half a liter of space will only ever be able to burn .5l of air/fuel mixture. Period. You can not magically "burn more fuel". You can only burn .5l per cylinder per cycle. In order to burn more air you have to accelerate the engine. You accelerate the engine by improving the efficiency of the engine (advancing timing)

    Wrong. A cylinder with .5L of of displacement doesn't have to burn .5L of air/fuel. It is usually running some vacuum and not sucking in as much air/fuel as it can. The only time the cylinders suck in as much fuel as they can is at wide open throttle, and your throttle body isn't limiting the amount of air that can enter the engine.

    Also, spark timing doesn't have much to do with this. You adjust your spark timing to get the most power out of the power stroke as possible, but it is not what controls the rpm. And it is not what controls the idle.

    If you ever play with a gas model airplane engine, you'll see this for yourself. They don't have spark plugs, they have glow plugs. Therefore you cannot control the spark advance. But you can still regulate the idle and RPM, and you do this by adjusting the throttle body in the carburetor.

    Cliffs Notes: A gasoline engine is air regulated.

    Interestingly, a diesel engine works more like you say, although it has no spark plugs either. On a diesel, you cannot limit the amount of air that enters the engine (no throttle) and there is no spark. You control its speed by limiting fuel (injection timing and injection amount)

  29. You are correct. by i41Overlord · · Score: 1

    I've come across many people who do not understand how an engine works. They are so used to the modern advances of an engine that they think they are the fundamentals of engine operation.

    Gasoline engines are controlled by limiting airflow, not spark. In fact, you do not really even need a sparkplug for an engine to work, and the smallest gas engines don't have spark plugs. I have a model airplane engine that will run on gas, and it only has a glow plug- no spark advance there. But it does have a throttle body (in the carb), which is a fundamental of gasoline engine operation.

    He is getting lost in the details and failing to grasp the overall concept of how the engine works.

  30. Re:You don't seem to understand how an engine work by RingDev · · Score: 1

    So we are agreeing on everything but symantics, and the importance of spark timing. Your description of how air flow effects engine speed is exactly how I described airflow adjusting the speed of a 'fixed speed' engine (ie: 2 stroke lawn mowers, model airplanes engines, etc). Limiting air flow reduces engine power and opposing friction reduces net torque to 0. (I'm sorry I misrepresented that to start with, I didn't know you (or other readers) where up on their physics). But you still run into the restriction where as the manifold vaccuum approaches 0, the engine is unable to suck more air, at that point the only way to further adjust the speed is by igniting the spark earlier which will increase the power, accelerating the engine causing it to suck more air in (increasing the manifold vaccuum).

    Advancing the spark won't help if the air flow is limited, the engine will accelerate, but have no torque (thus why 750cc motor cycle engines spin at 10,000rpms with only a tiny amount of torque). If you increase the air flow, but don't advance the spark, the engine will hit it's max efficient rpm at a much lower RPM but have significantly better torque (a 6.6l gas generator for example, tons of torque, but no way for it to spin over 1800 rpms)

    In any case, in breaking any idleling you are not running the engine in it's most efficient form and a lot of energy is shot straight out the exhaust. that is the energy the device is trying to "recapture" by forcing the engine to run more efficiently.

    -Rick

    --
    "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
  31. maybe I can help by i41Overlord · · Score: 1

    Correct, when I step on the gas, the throttle body butterfly valve opens, increasing pressure in the manifold which causes the spark to advance, so that the explosion will occur earlier, have more force and accelerate the engine, which will suck in more air/fuel mixture which will provide more power at that RPM.

    Forget about the spark advance right now, as that's a (relatively) recent trick used to get more power. It's not one of the fundamentals required for engine operation.

    If you look at a lawnmower engine, it has some of the basic requirements for an engine to run. It has a basic spark that's triggered by a magnet on the flywheel passing by the coil. There is no spark advance at all- it always runs the same timing. What makes it accelerate is opening the throttle, which sucks in more air/fuel. That allows the engine to produce more power and rev higher.

    Stroke 1 will suck in .6l, stroke 2 will compress that .6l to lets say .06l (10:1 compression). Just as the piston hit's top dead center, the spark is ignited, the gas begins it's expansion right at TDC. for ~ .1 seconds the gas tries to expand at X ft/second, any thing that limits that expansion will increase the force applied against the piston. But at the end of that .1 seconds, the gas is spent. But it only takes .06 seconds per rotation (at 1000rpms). So what happens to the extra .04 seconds of burn? tossed out the exhaust when the exhaust valves open at the end of the power stroke. stroke 4 then pushes the spent and unspent fuel out the exhaust.
    But then what? You advance the spark timing. Advancing the spark timing by .01 second allows you to have the combustion starting before TDC, which means you will have expansion occuring while the combustion chamber is at the smallest size, which means more pressure (force) which accelerates the engine. The engine spins faster, sucks more air per minute, but still sucks the exact same amount of air/fuel per rotation that it always did.


    You are completely getting lost in the details here. You are thinking along the lines that the engine sucks in the same amount every stroke. You've said that in this post and other posts. An engine doesn't work that way. The throttle body will limit the amount of air that can pass, and the cylinders will have a lower pressure. So when you think about the amount of air *at atmospheric pressure* that the engine sucks in, this amount changes based on how much throttle you're giving ig. At idle, which is your lowest throttle setting, the .6L cylinder is only drawing in a small fraction of .6L of outside air. It will be operating under a vacuum (not total vacuum of course, but pressure lower than atmospheric). Only at wide open throttle will the cylinders theoretically be filled with .6L of air, and that's if your engine were able to operate at 100% volumetric efficiency, which it probably doesn't.

    Again, spark timing advance is only a tweak made to get more power out of combustion. It's not a requirement for engine operation and that's not what makes the engine change speed or even work. Many engines have no spark advance, and some small engines have no spark at all, they work by using a glow plug.

    1. Re:maybe I can help by RingDev · · Score: 1

      "Many engines have no spark advance, and some small engines have no spark at all, they work by using a glow plug."

      We've already been through this. A Lawnmower engine is a "single speed" engine, you are adjusting it's power level which allows it to overcome more friction which allows it to speed up, to a set point. You can increase the speed over this by advancing ignition, diesel engines (the ones with glow plugs and no timing to advance nor throttle body to limit air flow) do this by adjusting the amount and timing of fuel delivery straight to the combustion chamber.

      Air flow will help you to a set point, once you hit that RPM any extra power you create is wasted out the exhaust because it takes too long to generate it. At that point, the only way to make the engine spin faster is to ignite the mixture sooner.

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    2. Re:maybe I can help by Infinityis · · Score: 1

      *CLAP* *CLAP* *CLAP* *CLAP*

      Thanks for the lucid explanation. As I read through the posts, I wondered if I'd have to try to clear things up, but you handled it splendidly. If I hadn't already posted all over this topic, and if I had mod points, I'd give them all to you. Excellent work.

  32. Plasma LCD Surround Sound by mshurpik · · Score: 1