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Real-Time Power Monitoring Options?

tedpearson writes "I've wanted for quite a while to be able to look at my electricity usage in graphed form, both real-time and historical data. There seem to be a number of options for power monitoring in existence: some that hook into Google PowerMeter, others to Microsoft Hohm, and some that are standalone units. I've also seen DIY projects using Arduinos for reading the data and sending it to a computer. But I haven't found anything that is quite what I'm looking for, and I am hoping the Slashdot community can give me some advice. What I'm looking for currently: Some sort of device(s) that a) accurately measures power usage, b) allows me to access the data for storage in a database for my own graphing/analysis purposes, c) will work with MacOS (doesn't require Windows), and d) doesn't cost more than $150 or so. DIY is fine, though I don't understand circuit design, which is keeping me from designing something myself."

172 comments

  1. Watt's Up Pro by Robbat2 · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I use the Watt's Up Pro, but it's for monitoring a single outlet.

    Do you intend to monitor your entire house, or just some devices?

    --
    ICQ# : 30269588
    "I used to be an idealist, but I got mugged by reality."
    1. Re:Watt's Up Pro by onebadmutha · · Score: 3, Informative

      Stick a webcam on it, do ocr to text on the numbers. Sheesh!

    2. Re:Watt's Up Pro by jpapon · · Score: 2, Insightful

      You wouldn't even need OCR. Just watch the lowest digit, and count every time it moves!

      --
      -- Let us endeavor so to live that when we pass even the undertaker shall be sorry. -- M. Twain
    3. Re:Watt's Up Pro by smellsofbikes · · Score: 2, Funny

      You joke, but I've done that: put a handheld digital multimeter face-down on a flatbed scanner, and used gocr to get data. It was *very* awkward, and once I got gpib running, I've never looked back at that without shivering.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    4. Re:Watt's Up Pro by tedpearson · · Score: 1

      I'd like to monitor the entire house. I've thought about the whole shebang... monitoring every circuit - but that would be more complex and expensive.

    5. Re:Watt's Up Pro by htdrifter · · Score: 1

      I'd like to monitor the entire house. I've thought about the whole shebang... monitoring every circuit - but that would be more complex and expensive.

      Black and Decker has a unit that mounts on the meter head and gets info from the rotating disk.
      There is no wiring involved.
      The remote unit recieves the signal and displays power usage, etc.
      On the web it's around $70.00.

      Black and decker

    6. Re:Watt's Up Pro by treecat · · Score: 3, Informative

      This appears to be a re-branded product marketed by Blue Line Innovations http://bluelineinnovations.com/. I purchased one of these about three years ago for about US $200.00. It works moderately well although the meter-reading device doesn't seem too happy with New England winters.

      The unit can read meters with a spinning dial and meters with a digital display. Digital meters contain an optical port through which the device monitors the meter.

      The model I have can't interface with a computer; the company might have models that will do so.

      Another product I purchased is produced and marketed by BrulTech Research Inc. http://www.brultech.com/. The unit is the ECM-1220 and works quite well. The supplied software is written to run under Windows, although BrulTech are very helpful in providing sample software and code for anyone who might like to port the product to another operating system.

      I had marvelous plans to write some GPL'd software for OS/X and Linux; as with many projects life got in the way.

      As I recall, this unit and the supplied software (not the sample code) cost me about US $300.00.

      The product uses current transformers. On my 200-amp 220 VAC panel I have two current transformers - one for each leg of the load to the house.

      Monitoring each load is possible with enough current transformers and host units; the cost would be (for me) prohibitive.

      I strongly prefer the BrulTech unit over the Blue Line product, although each is quite usable.

    7. Re:Watt's Up Pro by lachlan76 · · Score: 1

      Better yet, something like this.

    8. Re:Watt's Up Pro by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      you are cleverer than most people here, I like your problem solving style !

    9. Re:Watt's Up Pro by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This is a ZigBee platform with full security. http://lsr.com/products/smart_energy/ratesaver.aspx
      Device requires your utility to be SE compliant, however.

      Cheers!

    10. Re:Watt's Up Pro by rpstrong · · Score: 1

      Monitoring each load is possible with enough current transformers and host units; the cost would be (for me) prohibitive.

      It looks like the current model (1240) will handle around a dozen loads for under $180:

                http://www.etherbee.com/BrultechSampleSite/store/product.php?id_product=94

      I'll be looking in to it - thanks for the tip!

    11. Re:Watt's Up Pro by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I use the Watt's Up Pro, but it's for monitoring a single outlet.

      Do you intend to monitor your entire house, or just some devices?

      Check out WWW.greenenergyoptions.co.uk for home systems

    12. Re:Watt's Up Pro by aotian · · Score: 0

      Air Force 180 cushion of bold innovation, nike air max no doubt, but there is no escape Air Jordan 1 Retro from the bottom of the bubble class, Air Jordan 1 (I) Retro shoes easy to produce from aging, authentic air jordans resulting in slower performance. Jordan air force Nike in 1987 release of Air max sport shoes marks the beginning of the jordan kicks visible-science and technology.

      --
      http://www.mbt-shoes.com
  2. Go round the side of your house by 2.7182 · · Score: 2, Funny

    And check how fast the dial in the electric meter is spinning.

    1. Re:Go round the side of your house by adamdoyle · · Score: 0

      +1... if you're too lazy to walk a few feet outside and read your meter, then you're definitely too dependent on electricity.

    2. Re:Go round the side of your house by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You obviously don't know about a season called winter.

    3. Re:Go round the side of your house by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Actually mine is wireless now.

      Is there some way I can receive the data? If not, why not?

    4. Re:Go round the side of your house by jpapon · · Score: 3, Funny
      Yeah Winter, that's when it rains occasionally, right?

      Sincerely,

      The Bay Area

      --
      -- Let us endeavor so to live that when we pass even the undertaker shall be sorry. -- M. Twain
    5. Re:Go round the side of your house by otopico · · Score: 1

      No, winter is the one where you finally close the windows before going to sleep.

    6. Re:Go round the side of your house by RobertM1968 · · Score: 1

      Really? What if one wants to know that they are being billed correctly? BGE is big on overbilling. Heck, we went off grid, and got $2900 in bills for usage we could not have made (meter disconnected - by THEM no less). It took NINE months for them to admit it was some sort of "error" - a fucking "error" that they were claiming the smart meter, disconnected from everything, was reporting such power usage? My ass. Baltimore City was charged a quarter of a million in usage charges for a building that had been taken off grid. Our current LIPA bill here in NY has DOUBLED for some reason, with no new appliances, and no new usage patterns.

    7. Re:Go round the side of your house by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yeah, that's pretty useful if you can sit their all day every day, but it will tell you nothing about what's using power and it won't help you reduce consumption. You need expensive multi-circuit monitoring. You need to know what line is consuming power and when. E.g. How much is the AC or heat using throughout the day, cooking, washer/dryer. Add in a pool pump, how about the freezer in the garage, fridge in the kitchen, home theatre. Only when you can see where most power is being used are you able to react. You'll learn this when you stop living with your parents and get yourself a tech competent gay lover.

    8. Re:Go round the side of your house by Idarubicin · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Go round the side of your house...And check how fast the dial in the electric meter is spinning.

      Which works brilliantly, as long as he's only interested in knowing his electrical consumption while he's outside the house -- and not when he's busy cooking, watching television, ironing, using power tools, or having a hot electrically-heated shower. And as long as he doesn't care about electrical usage while he's asleep at night or when he's at work during the day. And as long as he doesn't mind getting funny numbers because the baseboard heaters in the front hall cycle on for a few minutes every time he opens the front door to go out to read the meter...

      --
      ~Idarubicin
    9. Re:Go round the side of your house by lazlo · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Are you saying you're un-lazy enough to walk a few feet outside and read your meter? And write down the reading? Every five minutes? For a month?

      Yes, it's very easy to track your average monthly power usage, it's right there on your bill. It's also easy to check your instantaneous usage by looking at the meter. What the OP wanted to know wasn't just a point measurement, but a running graph to see how it varied from hour to hour throughout the day.

      --
      Pound! Bang! Bin! Bash! is this a shell script or a Batman comic?
    10. Re:Go round the side of your house by bhcompy · · Score: 1

      Not quite, you just turn the fan down from high to low. Sincerely, Southern California

    11. Re:Go round the side of your house by Dishevel · · Score: 2, Funny

      It rains in the winter?
      Sincerely,

      So Cal

      --
      Why is it so hard to only have politicians for a few years, then have them go away?
    12. Re:Go round the side of your house by treeves · · Score: 1

      Well, it rains much more in the winter but it can rain any time of year.

      Regards,

      The Pacific Northwest.

      --
      ...the future crusty old bastards are already drinking the Kool-Aid.
    13. Re:Go round the side of your house by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 2, Funny

      The Newcomer's Guide To Bay Area Weather:

      Gray = Winter

      Blue = Summer

      You can sort of do a running average to figure out Fall and Spring.

    14. Re:Go round the side of your house by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 1

      Rain? What's rain?

      Sincerely,

      The Inland Northwest

    15. Re:Go round the side of your house by treeves · · Score: 1

      It's that wet stuff that falls from the sky on the other side of the mountains where almost all the people live.

      Sincerely,

      "The Coast"

      PS, I lived in Pullman, WA for a time and it was known to rain there on occasion.

      --
      ...the future crusty old bastards are already drinking the Kool-Aid.
    16. Re:Go round the side of your house by Jane+Q.+Public · · Score: 2, Funny

      Sure. But the difference between 120" of precipitation a year (Olympic Peninsula) and 18" a year (far Eastern edge of the state) is pretty large. Even larger if you're talking about the stinkin' desert in the center. But let's not.

      It even snows in Pullman once in a while. The real spectator sport in Pullman during the winter is watching all the Freshman from the West side of the state, who have never driven in the snow, slide down Stadium Way toward Main Street. Or even better, down the hill behind the campus hospital to Stadium Way.

      Once after a good snow I saw a young woman drive around that corner onto the downward slope of the hill, try to stop at the bottom, slide out a bit onto Stadium Way, and get stuck. A few minutes later a small blue pickup with a pizza delivery sign on the roof went around the same corner, slid down the hill, hit the back of the woman's car, and pushed it further out onto Stadium Way. Someone must have called the police because after a few more minutes, a police car turned onto the same hill and slid all the way down into the pizza truck, knocking it into the car again.

      In a situation like that, I wonder who gets a ticket?

    17. Re:Go round the side of your house by Achromatic1978 · · Score: 1

      Our current LIPA bill here in NY has DOUBLED for some reason, with no new appliances, and no new usage patterns.

      Is your neighbor running a grow house? Maybe you should look for a vampire feed ...

    18. Re:Go round the side of your house by Mr.+Freeman · · Score: 1

      That's fine if you want to check your power usage at whatever interval you go out there. What if you want to measure usage every 2 minutes 24/7 including while you're away at work?
      It's not laziness at all.

      However, my advice to the writer would be to reevaluate your purpose here. Saying "a) accurately measures power usage" is more than a little vague. I assume that you're vague because you don't know what you want to do. No offense intended, but you need to define the problem before you start generating design criteria.

      I assume you want to reduce power usage. There's several ways to do this. One way is simply to try and use less shit. Turn off the lights more often, be quick about opening/shutting the fridge/freezer, turn shit off when it's not in use, etc. For this you could just use a commercially available whole-house meter (one that reads at the meter) as this will be your cheapest option. I believe that these also work with online services like you mentioned that generate statistics and graphs.

      Another way is to figure out what is using the most power and try to reduce usage of that device. For this you're going to need individual appliance monitoring. This is a lot more expensive than a whole-house system because you need a lot of little measurement devices plugged into every freaking large (and small) appliance in the house.

      That said, why do you need graphing? If you just need to see what device is consuming the most power then buy a kill-a-watt or two and start plugging it into things for a week each.

      If, for whatever reason, you MUST have individual-appliance graphing then you're going to have to do a little work. By work, I mean circuit design and some scripts to do data collection. To my knowledge, there is no commercially-available device that will measure power from one device and work with anything to graph it.
      However, fear not as this is not the daunting task that it may seem like. There is a kit out there that will allow you to tweet information from a kill-a-watt. It's called "tweet-a-watt", look it up. There's complete instructions so you shouldn't have any trouble.

      You were unspecific about your programming skills so I'm going to assume that you have no idea what you're doing. (ignore the following if this is incorrect) If you just want to twitter the data then you won't have a problem because there's like a bajillion people out there that have already done this and released their work for free use by all. It's going to get more complicated if you want to store data in a database of some sort because that's not nearly as common. You can either learn how to write a script that will put this information into a database, or see if someone online will write you a script. Ask around at work if anyone is interested in trying the same thing and work together. Remember, Google is your friend here. Also, progress may be absurdly slow and you might take quite a few wrong turns. It recently took me a freaking week to get a python script working to import data from a spreadsheet into a mysql db because I didn't know any python when I started. A competent programmer could have whipped one up in about 5 minutes.

      Also, your power usage may not be a result of problems with devices being inefficient or being run too long. It might be your house. I'd recommend you'd look into how well your house is insulated, whether your windows leak more heat than is acceptable, etc. I have no knowledge regarding this subject, but it's something you should probably look into.

      --
      -1 disagree is not a modifier for a reason. -1 troll, flaimbait, redundant, overrated are NOT acceptable substitutes.
    19. Re:Go round the side of your house by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      No, that's when the grapefruits are in season. Signed, South Florida.

    20. Re:Go round the side of your house by Nethead · · Score: 1

      The send the ticket to EWU for sending down the snow in the first place.

      --
      -- I have a private email server in my basement.
    21. Re:Go round the side of your house by RobertM1968 · · Score: 1

      LoL, no such thing. We're still trying to figure this out and even had an electrician come in and meter peak usage. No changes since the last time (when the bill was less). There was a recent rate increase (but not double or even close), so next we are trying to get an idea of whether there's some new idiotic method (of billing) they are doing things that may be causing this. Our power usageis generally consistent every hour of the day (we run a stack of always on servers - same stack for years, same server loads), so maybe a "residential" increase that's "only a few percent" could be affecting our more business-like current draw.

      Regardless of our current power usage though, companies like BGE have been found to "mis-bill" multiple times, including "verified" readings for empty buildings not connected to anything. So, maybe LIPA is on the up and up, but with such bad experiences with BGE, one (we) tend to wonder when we see such odd discrepencies.

      Here's one news report on BGE's billing idiocy and the problems it has created. Voice

      Note how much effort it takes to fight their "errors" and the 40% refund granted. Most people there dont know how to fight the errors or have the time to survive long enough to do so (without power, etc).

      And an interesting reading about how (as of 2005) BGE gets away with not paying for power generated by self-sufficient homes (ie: solar powered, etc): http://www2.citypaper.com/printStory.asp?id=10295

      And even more complaints "aired" by a local Baltimore TV station: http://wjz.com/local/bge.bills.2.944635.html

      Makes it hard to trust any utility company.

    22. Re:Go round the side of your house by smithmc · · Score: 1

      Um... this is Slashdot. Some people around here do geeky things for fun. Of course, as you've just demonstrated, other people around here post snarky adolescent comments that add nothing to the conversation. Takes all kinds, I suppose.

      --
      Downmodding is the refuge of the weak. Don't downmod, make a better argument!
    23. Re:Go round the side of your house by Arterion · · Score: 1

      You could aim a webcam at it and have it snap a picture every 5 minutes.

      I actually suggested a friend of mine use that technique for wanting to be able to remotely check the reading from a weather station on his boat while he was at home.

      I'm not really joking. If you're good with software, but not hardware, this might be the way to go. Then have some image processing software read the data you want from a series of images, or in realtime, and pop it into a spreadsheet. You could even do with no internet connection if you got one of those prepay camera phone and put some software on it to take the pictures and upload them somewhere. You'd just need a power tap. (which is much simpler than designing circuits)

      --
      "That which does not kill us makes us stranger." -Trevor Goodchild
  3. get a managed power strip by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    They don't cost much ($100-200) and give you all the data you need.

    1. Re:get a managed power strip by X0563511 · · Score: 1

      Oh sure, let me wire that bastard into the main feed outside.

      Oh wait.

      --
      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
  4. Hmmmm...... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    > though I don't understand circuit design, which is keeping me from designing something myself

    Electrocution?

    1. Re:Hmmmm...... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Bah, electricity doesn't hurt too much. Well, unless you are the better ground. And hopefully the ground path isn't through important bits like your chest or head. In one hand and out the other, or a foot, or your head.. That can be bad.

          I've been hit zapped by everything from 90V to 30KV. 120V 60Hz makes a funny tingle, and you can hear the hummmmm of the power line til you manage to let go, which isn't as easy as it sounds... I may have lost feeling in those limbs for a few hours to days, but that warm loving tingling reminds you not to do that again. I'm ... er... shit, 2 years electrocution free. The last one was a fucking camera flash capacitor. Those little fuckers hurt. I think that's it. There may be a few brain cells that released some magic smoke or I'd have more to say on that.

      The doc says I'll be fine someday,
      once the other voices in my head shut up.

      Shh..
      Can't you see I'm trying to type!

      Back to your cage!

      Who said that?

      What?

  5. IObridge by rodrigo1979 · · Score: 5, Informative

    This is about as cheap as it gets for a DIY project. If I were to give you a quote for a commercial grade version you'd shoot me in the eye. http://www.iobridge.net/projects/category/projects/ http://www.iobridge.net/projects/2009/01/real-time-power-monitoring-system/

    1. Re:IObridge by rodrigo1979 · · Score: 3, Informative

      Here's the kind of meter we typically provide for commercial building applications: http://www.electricitymetering.com/p3894/veris_h8036_enercept.php That's just the retail cost of the meter.. add the cost of the web appliance (Honeywell/Tridium) with I/O module or Lonworks/modbus interface, plus labor to the electrician for wiring/installation, graphics design, programming the appliance and commissioning the whole enchilada. Not cheap.

  6. Don't look by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Trust me you don't want to know. Just look at your monthly bill and try to do better next month.

    1. Re:Don't look by hierophanta · · Score: 1

      dont look...just look - make up your mind. also is it possible to not know and have a reference for 'better'?

  7. Tweet-A-Watt by scharkalvin · · Score: 1

    Check out the Tweet-a-watt from AdaFruit.

    http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=32&zenid=d5308340ddf8717aa16168614312ae0e

    1. Re:Tweet-A-Watt by markdavis · · Score: 1

      I am fairly sure he wants to monitor the whole house power usage, real-time. Not just a single outlet.

    2. Re:Tweet-A-Watt by eln · · Score: 5, Funny

      So register one twitter account per outlet, have them all tweet power usage, then register another twitter account that retweets all the others and then tweets the total usage. Once you start generating that much twitter traffic, CNN will eventually start publishing your tweets on the front page of their website, since their primary news gathering activity these days is reading and re-posting "hot" twitter feeds. Then, you can just log on to cnn.com whenever you want to know your power usage.

      Sheesh, do we have to think of everything?

    3. Re:Tweet-A-Watt by nospam007 · · Score: 2, Informative

      I found an energy-logger from Conrad.de in Germany.
      It has an SD card where it stores the data for 6 months. Apparently it includes software to graph the results. Around 60 bucks, cheaper if you buy several.

      http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/125335/VOLTCRAFT-ENERGY-LOGGER-4000-ENERGIEKME;jsessionid=7CBBF03B9C5D056C0E5E07A4CDEFCC77.ASTPCCP4

  8. Reading the meter by SIGBUS · · Score: 3, Informative

    At the meter, you can calculate the power draw. Look for the Kh value on the meter, and count the number of seconds it takes for the disc to make one full rotation. Then, use this formula:

    W = Kh / (Seconds / 3600)

    to get the power draw in watts.

    Of course, this assumes you're still using an old-school spinning-disc meter.

    --
    Oh, no! You have walked into the slavering fangs of a lurking grue!
    1. Re:Reading the meter by markdavis · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Why are you all assuming there is a turning disc in the meter? I haven't had one in mine for many years. There is only a digital readout with FULL KW/h and no current load reading at all. It is completely useless for real-time monitoring. Thanks for the "improved" meter, Virginia Dominion Power!

    2. Re:Reading the meter by blair1q · · Score: 0, Redundant

      Here, you dropped this:

      you insensitive clods!

    3. Re:Reading the meter by tedpearson · · Score: 1

      I do have a spinning disc. ;)

    4. Re:Reading the meter by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Before I tackled a similar project, I calculated how much this "real time monitor" would cost, figured out how much I'm likely to save (a few pennies per day), and then decided to buy a $20 gadget on amazon called "Kill A Watt"

      It tracks how many KWh a single device (like a TV or freezer) is using. Once a month I look at it, multiply by 9.5 cents, and figure out how much energy it used (typically 1-2 dollars - trivial).

      I discovered the appliances use very little energy. Most of the $300 bill is caused by the central Heat Pump, so now I turn if off when I'm not home and also at night (covers keep me warm).

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    5. Re:Reading the meter by jjhall · · Score: 3, Interesting

      The digital meters used in the Idaho Power area anyway has a scrolling line on the bottom of the digital display. This represents the old turning wheel and uses in fact the same calculations.

      http://efundies.com/electricity/how_to_read_power_meter.htm

      Our power meters use a slightly different digital method, it has a bar that "fills up" at the bottom, and it is measured from the moment it resets to the next reset as the equivalent to one wheel revolution.

      Your power meter should have a way to see current usage, give your utility a call if you can't figure it out, and if there is in fact no way to read it, I'd get in touch with the public utilities commission and see if it is a requirement.

    6. Re:Reading the meter by jpapon · · Score: 1

      You'd think that with all this digitizing of the meters, they would put a simple serial port (or even just some pins) on it so you could monitor it remotely.

      --
      -- Let us endeavor so to live that when we pass even the undertaker shall be sorry. -- M. Twain
    7. Re:Reading the meter by tedpearson · · Score: 1

      You've neglected the real reason to do this: because I can.

    8. Re:Reading the meter by markdavis · · Score: 1

      Our meters have a single set of digits showing whole number of kwatt hours. There is no bar chart, no line, nothing else except a tiny blinking triangle (which when I looked at it now is blinking about once per second). No indication as to what the triangle means. It is pretty crappy.

    9. Re:Reading the meter by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Won't this make the magic go away?

    10. Re:Reading the meter by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You are confused. Monitoring things with toys like kill-a-watts isn't going to tell you much. That shit doesn't even handle 240V circuits let alone all the big hard-wired appliances that are the major power hogs. That's where your energy is going. You need to monitor each circuit at the fusebox, and that costs a fucking fortune. Not that induction systems are hard to make, but the companies that do, want a lot of money. Or you could move to Europe where houses and appliances are much more energy efficient. Clue: hot air blown from heat pumps is the least efficient system you can have.

    11. Re:Reading the meter by 2.7182 · · Score: 1

      Are you referring the Mana? That's an old story if you are referring is what I am thinking of.

    12. Re:Reading the meter by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I would have told you that for 5 bucks. I might have told you for free, but I find people don't believe something if they don't pay for it.

    13. Re:Reading the meter by 2.7182 · · Score: 1

      And if you want to automate it, but a little wireless camera on it, stream it into matlab, track the image of the spinning disk and count its rotation rate.

    14. Re:Reading the meter by namgge · · Score: 1

      My digital meter has an led that flashes once per watt-hour. i.e. a 3kW kettle flashes it about once per second. This would be dead easy to interface with an Arduino, but it hardly seems worth the effort. If you want to save power: don't home-work, buy fewer gadgets, wear appropriate clothes, turn stuff off unless you are in the room using it.

      Namgge

    15. Re:Reading the meter by nospam007 · · Score: 1

      I got radio controlled meter readers on my gas and water counters a couple of years ago, electricity still lags behind.

  9. Very simple... by ThePawArmy · · Score: 1

    1. Point web cam at power meter.
    2. Hack software to read pictures of meter
    3. ???
    4. Profit !!!

    1. Re:Very simple... by markdavis · · Score: 1

      That is not a useful solution for real-time power monitoring when your digital-only house power meter only displays full kilowatt-hours used. (Hint, my stupid meter is that way).

    2. Re:Very simple... by arivanov · · Score: 1

      If the meter is modern enough it is likely to have mBus over IR or some other IR based interface for automated reading.

      As far as the webcam, that may also work. It will not be very precise though.

      --
      Baker's Law: Misery no longer loves company. Nowadays it insists on it
      http://www.sigsegv.cx/
  10. The Energy Detective by swillden · · Score: 3, Informative

    It's a little more expensive that what you want -- $200 rather than $150 -- but other than that, I think it's exactly what you're looking for. The gateway device itself stores sufficient data to allow you to look at short-term detailed usage and long-term trends via its web interface, but if you want more than that, you can set up something to periodically poll the device, downloading detailed, per-second, usage in an XML format. You can then store that data however you like, and mine it however you want.

    There may be other solutions out there, and I'm interested to see what others suggest, but I have a TED unit and I couldn't be happier with it. It also uploads to Google PowerMeter.

    http://www.theenergydetective.com

    --
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    1. Re:The Energy Detective by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Exactly. TED is where it's at.

    2. Re:The Energy Detective by Stele · · Score: 2, Informative

      Yep, absolutely fantastic system and not too hard to install yourself. The wireless receiver actually has a built-in web server you can log into from any computer, and "there's an app for that" too. You log into the server, tell it what your energy rates are, and it'll tell you instantly what the electricity is costing you. I have mine sending everything to Google PowerMeter (this feature is built in) which provides very accurate persistent usage data.

      I sprung for the optional remote which sits in our kitchen and displays our usage all the time.

      First thing I learned after installing mine: the clothes dryer uses the most electricity by far, and leaving my computers on 24/7 doesn't use as much energy as I thought it did.

    3. Re:The Energy Detective by swillden · · Score: 5, Informative

      First thing I learned after installing mine: the clothes dryer uses the most electricity by far, and leaving my computers on 24/7 doesn't use as much energy as I thought it did.

      I learned the same things. The clothes dryer, stove/oven and dishwasher dominate my power consumption. A microwave is an extremely efficient way to heat food. Computers are small users, even my dual-processor Opteron file server with eight hard drives only draws about 120W. The cool "multi-can" lighting systems in my kitchen, living and family room suck a lot of juice -- each room is about 800W with the lights on. My swamp cooler uses more juice than I thought it did.

      One thing I discovered the first day I installed the device was a "phantom" 400W draw that was pretty much always on. By shutting off all the circuit breakers one by one and watching the draw I was able to narrow it down and eventually discover that it was a large vent fan in my attic on a thermostat. It may have been necessary originally, but about five years ago I installed those spinning "hurricane" vents so my attic has good passive cooling -- but with that fan's thermostat set to turn the fan on at about 100 degrees, it was on nearly full-time during the summer. I turned the thermostat up to 120 and I don't think the fan has come on since. Turning it up hasn't appreciably affected the amount of time my swamp cooler runs.

      So far, I think I'm saving about $20 per month since installing the TED. It should pay for itself quite handily in a year's time.

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    4. Re:The Energy Detective by skipwiley · · Score: 1

      Yes well TED would be great unless you bought a 1001 which they have excluded from compatibility with Google Power Meter. I am not sure why since it has a USB port and it would just take some software on a host to sync the data with Google, instead I have to buy their NEW and improved version to use decent software with it. No Mac support, their Footprints software is dated and slow, and their driver BSODs Windows 7 every 24 hours.

    5. Re:The Energy Detective by CohibaVancouver · · Score: 1

      and dishwasher dominate my power consumption

      I've tried to get organized with my dishwasher such that it doesn't dry the dishes electrically any more - I just use it to wash the dishes, then I open the door and pull out the racks and let them air-dry overnight. Works most of the time :)

    6. Re:The Energy Detective by swillden · · Score: 1

      I've tried to convince my wife to do that... but with no luck :-/

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    7. Re:The Energy Detective by nametaken · · Score: 1

      This is remarkable... exactly the sort of thing I hoped to find in the comments (I am not the OP). Thanks for pointing it out!

    8. Re:The Energy Detective by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Another vote for TED. I installed one on our new house, and in the course of tracking down the various 'always on' loads I came up about 100 watts over what I thought we should be using. Turned out that the new rechargeable lawnmower draws that much even when it's all charged up and just sitting there on float-charge. So now we have an eight-hour countdown timer to switch it off after it's charged, and I've seen the value of fluorescent lamps when compared to incandescents. The air conditioning dwarfs every other load by a long shot. It's really astounding to see the difference when that's turned on, and emphasizes the value of passive cooling through ventilation.

      "You cannot control what you cannot measure."

      That's really the story in a nutshell. The mere fact that we have a display in the kitchen, near the exit door, which shows us what current consumption is, means that we're aware of when something's been left running and we turn it off. With shipping the total cost was about $250 for my TED5000, but I think it's money very well spent.

      MGF

    9. Re:The Energy Detective by atamido · · Score: 1

      The cool "multi-can" lighting systems in my kitchen, living and family room suck a lot of juice -- each room is about 800W with the lights on.

      I hate those can lighting systems, but if you have them then you should consider dropping some CFLs into them. Incandescent can lighting is basically as inefficient as it gets. There was also that article about the really efficient directional LED bulbs recently, but they're pretty expensive so I don't see how they'd be worth it.

    10. Re:The Energy Detective by swillden · · Score: 1

      I have considered it, but as of yet I can't find any CFLs that fit in the cans. I know they're really inefficient. They do light up the room really nicely, but the energy!

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    11. Re:The Energy Detective by lynnroth · · Score: 1

      I just installed 8 Cree LR6 LED lights in our living room. These fit standard 6 inch cans, but they have some that fit 4" cans I believe.

      I would say that the light is basically indistinguishable from incandescent lights and they use about 1/6 the power for the same light.

      Highly recommended.

      http://www.creelighting.com/

    12. Re:The Energy Detective by swillden · · Score: 1

      Thanks! I'll look into that. How expensive were they?

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  11. Google Power Meter / Hackaday Suggestions by SheeEttin · · Score: 2, Informative

    If all you want is graphing, then Google Power Meter is probably the best way.

    That said, there have been a few articles on Hackaday recently concerning methods of interfacing meters with Google's API. I assume that once you submit it, you can get it back out.

    Or, if that doesn't do it for you, I'm sure you could adapt one of the projects on Hackaday to your own ends.

    1. Re:Google Power Meter / Hackaday Suggestions by sconnell · · Score: 1

      If all you want is graphing, then Google Power Meter is probably the best way.

      That may be an option if you are not concerned with accuracy. Also it is not available in every area. In my experience (you can see chart for last month at: http://yfrog.com/mvmx1g ), Google Power Meter is off by more than 20%, skips monitoring for entire days and only shows whole house data which doesn't really help you find less obvious "power hogs." We use EcoDog FIDO which shows data for each individual circuit and was accurate with our utility bill within 1KWHr for the month. It also shows the actual cost of the electricity & even accounts for our tiered rates & warns when we're approaching the next higher rate tier. Our utility has been saying that "Google Power Meter has a few bugs to work out..." for about 7 months now. EcoDog showed us that our old dehumidifier in the basement (that we completely forgot about) was costing $90/mo to run. We replaced the dehumidifier with an Energy Star model that paid for itself in 2 months. Unfortunately, EcoDog is quite a bit more than you are looking to spend & we've been running it in VMware on the Mac. They're supposed to come out with a Mac native model next year. It's pretty cool & we figure that we have saved enough electricity to pay for the EcoDog over about a year.

  12. Flukso looks interesting... by mspohr · · Score: 2, Informative
    This product is designed for whole house real time monitoring with the results available on the web... looks interesting.

    http://www.flukso.net/

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    1. Re:Flukso looks interesting... by Relayman · · Score: 1

      Flukso is for Europeans. From the Web site: "from a current clamp attached to one of the two main power cables." (Emphasis added.) In the United States, you must use two current sensors, one for each main wire, for residential wiring. Obviously, three sensors are required for three-phase commercial power.

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    2. Re:Flukso looks interesting... by mspohr · · Score: 1

      I believe that they also have a version which uses two current clamps and is suitable for US power.

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  13. Your budget isn't realistic by dave562 · · Score: 2, Informative

    Take a look at what a monitored PDU costs for a server rack. APC offers them, as do a few other vendors. You're easily looking at $450 per PDU. It will do everything that you want though, including output to SNMP so that you can trap it.

  14. Circut design by mcgrew · · Score: 1

    Although designing something like this would be trivial with even a small amount of electronics knowledge, if you have none I'd first go toward one of the turnkey systems earlier commenters have suggested, then be a good nerd and pick up some books on electronics so next time you think of a project like this you'll be well armed.

    1. Re:Circut design by Cassini2 · · Score: 1

      Although designing something like this would be trivial ...

      Designing a circuit to measure power consumption, especially in as-billed dollars, can be surprisingly complicated. It really depends on the application. For many applications, measuring current consumption will correlate sufficiently well with power consumption, that many consumers will never know the difference.

      True power measurement is surprisingly complicated. There are 4 wires going into the average household, 2 lines, one neutral, and one ground. Power should flow on only 3 of those 4 lines, and never on the ground. Does this actually happen? Are the power line transformer and all connected loads, like pool heaters, all "good"?

      The next issue is power factor. Only current in phase with the incoming load is considered "power", the rest is just reactive energy cycling up and down the power lines. Depending on your billing, the utility will charge for real power, and usually has penalties for reactive power. Utilities are not supposed to bill for simple current consumption.

      Next, the issue of "harmonics" surfaces. Depending on your meter technology, you may or may not be charged for these. Personally, I've always wanted to study how power meters measured harmonics, to see if they charged extra for them, or charged less for them. I'm pretty sure many power meters do not measure them accurately.

      Finally, you have the issue of time-of-day billing, fixed billing costs, demand charges, and extra load-proportional charges. These need to be factored into any kind of power analysis too.

      If you go through the pain of doing all of the above, you probably also want to implement some technologies to actually reduce power consumption. The circuits to implement dynamic power factor correction and dynamic load shedding are complex indeed ...

      Hint: for many industrial customers, and some residential customers, the utility can provide, for free, a complete breakdown of power consumed by time of day, often for month-long periods of time.

    2. Re:Circut design by necro81 · · Score: 1

      While the measurement circuits for what this guy wants are fairly straightforward, interfacing these with LIVE power at the breaker panel is very serious and dangerous stuff. A qualified electrician might be able to do some work in the breaker panel itself, though it isn't exactly standard work, so finding someone willing to give it a go with home-spun electronics is dicey. To do it safely would require the power to be cut to the house at the utility pole - before it even reaches the breakers. That's something that, really, only the utility should be doing.

      Even building a circuit to measure a single power outlet can be hazardous. Ordinary 110-V power can kill you easily, damage equipment if fucked with, or cause a house-destroying fire. Leave that kind of thing to the product manufacturer. Figure out what to do with the data downstream of the meter. Look for UL labeling to make sure it's been tested in any number of different fault conditions.

    3. Re:Circut design by mcgrew · · Score: 1

      You don't have to access any bare wires to measure current and voltage. You can loop a coil of insulated wire around the insulated current carrying lead and measure it by induction. This is how high voltage ammeters work.

  15. "Dad monitor" by NevarMore · · Score: 4, Funny

    1) Wander around house, see if lights, appliances, devices are on/plugged in.
    2) Make arbitrary decision about power usage.
    3) Turn off/unplug device.

    There. Now go play outside.

    1. Re:"Dad monitor" by blair1q · · Score: 3, Insightful

      He's just getting you back for all the times you played kitchen-implement drums while he was trying to nap.

      Hug him for it.

    2. Re:"Dad monitor" by tedpearson · · Score: 1

      I do this anyways, as does MY dad.

    3. Re:"Dad monitor" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Shut up! You're not my real dad anyway! So what if I don't go to school!

  16. I did steps one and two, but no profit... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I did exactly that... 4.95 euro digital power meter, 200 euro digital camera, 1000 euro computer, and very simple software to analyze power use of cell phone. There you go - el-cheapo power analysis.
    Digital readout is way simpler to analyze.

  17. For people who do electronics by smellsofbikes · · Score: 4, Informative

    The Analog Designs ADE7763 is a pretty awesome chip for doing this sort of stuff. Here's the appnote in a pdf, and here's the chip itself. It's quite easily interfaced to an Arduino using SPI. I just laid out a board interfacing this to an ATMEGA1284 for doing power quality monitoring and logging, but it's for an internal project so I can't just hand out the code or layout, but it was a dead simple chip to work with: one crystal and two caps were all it required for support, and if it were interfaced to an Arduino, that could handle all the I/O to a computer or write to an SD card.

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    1. Re:For people who do electronics by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      DigiKey has them at $4 for single chips. So this is definitely a cool solution.

      Most modern ASICs like that are very simple to work with. Reference designs tend to be more than adequate. Low speed chip interfaces are also very simple.

    2. Re:For people who do electronics by smellsofbikes · · Score: 1

      And Newark has them in stock. We've been having a horrible time in the last year trying to find distributors that actually have stuff in stock, and end up buying small lots at high prices from frightening places, or pleading for samples directly from the manufacturers. Parts we've been using for years suddenly have 10 week lead times. I'm trying to source one part the manufacturer swears is in production and rolling off the lines but "nobody's buying" and distributors are showing a 30 *week* lead time. Gah. No wonder nobody's buying.

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    3. Re:For people who do electronics by AdamHaun · · Score: 1

      The whole semiconductor industry is backlogged because everyone ramped down their production and laid off people during the financial crash. Now we can't make stuff fast enough despite desperately ramping up and everyone wants to refill their inventory at once.

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    4. Re:For people who do electronics by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have yet to see a hobby approach to non-intrusive load monitoring - NILM.

      Each appliance within the home can be identified with a unique active/reactive power profile within the home supply.

      For an intro see: "A taxonomy of load signatures for single phase appliances" [pdf] (http://www.lucente.us/pubs/2005-IEEE-PESC-preprint.pdf). This paper has some nice waveform pictures and good explanation of basic load types and their active/reactive power signatures.

      Things available right now? TED offers an 'appliance profiling' feature with Footprints (restricted to maximum five appliances) and works best with simple loads. The feature requires training. Intel are working on something inside their smart grid effort using a custom plug to pick up the profile for a single appliance. Again, a form of feature training. Episensor (Ireland) also has a product which requires training (search for their Clarity project wiki). Enetics (USA) have standalone systems and systems for integration with existing smart meters. Navetas (UK) are releasing a consumer oriented product which does not require appliance training.

      The algorithms required are no doubt complex - but within a single home may not be too difficult to get good results. This is crying out for open source.

      Any ideas or suggestions for implementation?

    5. Re:For people who do electronics by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The opensource power monitor flukso blog has an entry on this topic:

      http://www.flukso.net/content/device-fingerprinting

    6. Re:For people who do electronics by smellsofbikes · · Score: 2, Informative
      A few thoughts: the ADE7763 I mentioned is nice because it's so cheap, and a board built around it would cost about $5, with roughly $8 of components (chip, crystal, screw terminals, header for the SPI bus) so you could afford an Arduino and a half-dozen of these, and put them in the breaker box to measure multiple circuits simultaneously. But if you want to go appliance-by-appliance, the bus length and the per-unit cost are going to get very painful, and it seems like the tweet-a-watt kit, using a cut-up kill-a-watt meter with networking added, would be a better idea. Of course, that doesn't work with 220V appliances, and you have to get something like the SmartWatt, which isn't as user-friendly, although it does come with networking built in. It's also $20 over the article's price budget, which is a shame because it's pretty cool.

      But if you're a serious DIY person, I think that analog chip is going to be hard to beat.

      At work I use a Yokogawa WT210, and it's fantastic -- distortion out to the 50th harmonic, scads of power factor and real power measuring abilities -- but it's also like $7K, and a bear to learn to use. Le sigh.

      With all THAT said, I don't know of any accurate, networkable, completely non-intrusive load monitoring hardware, which is a shame.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    7. Re:For people who do electronics by EETech1 · · Score: 1

      I was just given a 50 week lead time for an SMT resistor!

  18. Most meters can monitored optically by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    See here for a commercial product that exploits this:

    http://www.blackanddecker.com/energy/PowerMonitorCompatibility.htm

    1. Re:Most meters can monitored optically by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yup, interesting to note that they use some one or two optical ports to read the info, just like your meter guy probably does, or using an IR counter to count the rotating wheel.

      re the B&D products--

      When I did a search for the Black and Decker one on Amazon ('black decker monitor'), the search results suggested it's a copy or made by Blue Line Innovations, who in turn has a monitor that interfaces with those meters.

      Unfortunately, it seems to interface with some online MS product for the graphing known as Hohm. Also, by the time you add the pricing together, you might as well by the TED products noted above.

      Still, it would be neat if someone hacked the B&D devices so the info could be read via USB. Those devices are often seen on ebay under $60, if not cheaper.

  19. You might be surprised ... by drachenstern · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Check with your power company, especially if you are with a smaller co-op. I write software that does the analysis and historical reporting on modern (aka, "smart", the kind that can phone home with readings on usage, peaks, etc, and all over the powerline itself) meters, and we have all that data like you're describing. More complex systems allow for complete home monitoring, but they do require some specialized devices inside the house.

    Here's a link (ok, the first on google I came across on the terms you need) but still, this will get your foot in the door. HTH. http://www.sdge.com/smartmeter/homeAreaNetwork.shtml

    If you're in with a bigger firm, sorry charlie, not much to suggest there.

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    1. Re:You might be surprised ... by tedpearson · · Score: 1

      Still working with a dial meter here. =)

  20. CurrentCost Envi by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

    I have an older version of the CurrentCost monitor..

    When I get some extra $ together will likely upgrade.

    http://www.currentcost.com/

    1. Re:CurrentCost Envi by tedpearson · · Score: 1

      I've read that the CurrentCost monitor isn't very accurate as it has a SET power factor and doesn't calculate the power factor, producing results that can be off as much as 10% or more.

    2. Re:CurrentCost Envi by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have one also and works great. The company is a bit slow updating their software and it isn't very Mac friendly, but their monitor (developed in the UK) works great in Portugal

  21. Pick two by LoudMusic · · Score: 1

    What I'm looking for currently: Some sort of device(s) that a) accurately measures power usage, b) allows me to access the data for storage in a database for my own graphing/analysis purposes, c) will work with MacOS (doesn't require Windows), and d) doesn't cost more than $150 or so.

    The old saying, "Cheap, fast, good. Pick two." applies here. You have too many requirements.

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    1. Re:Pick two by geekoid · · Score: 2, Insightful

      No he doesn't.

      He only needs two: Cheap and good. His requirement doesn't have time. Based on you post it will be perfect, cost him nothing and be done in infinity years... he might was to adjust a little.

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  22. This may be what you are looking for... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Both of these work with Google Powermeter..
    (I am personally planning on getting the first one)

    http://www.currentcost.com/powermeter/

    http://www.theenergydetective.com/store/ted-5000

  23. Brultech ECM1240 is about $150 in default config by marcmerlin · · Score: 4, Informative

    See http://www.etherbee.com/products/ECM1240/default.htm
    and see what you can output with one of those guys:
    http://marc.merlins.org/perso/linuxha/post_2010-08-13_Fine-grained-house-wide-power-monitoring-with-Brultech-ECM1240_-ecmread_py-_with-net-metering-support_-and-graphing-with-cacti.html

    There is one caveat: you need windows for the initial setup, although I did it in vmware, maybe it works in wine too, but since then it's been running fine on linux (and it would work just the same on MacOS since it's a python script).

    Marc

  24. TED by Yossarian45793 · · Score: 4, Informative

    I use TED. It's right around your price range. It monitors whole-house power usage in real time and has a USB-Serial interface which you can easily suck data out of with Python script. I personally do all the data logging on a Linux box and export it through a web interface.

    1. Re:TED by GruntMan · · Score: 4, Informative

      I have a TED-5000. Very happy with it. 15-minute install in the main panel; the bigger hassle was resetting all the clocks in the house afterwards. Connected the gateway device to my home network, now any device that has a web browser can see power usage. Easily accessible from the outside world by web browser, with the right router settings. Monitoring is down to the second, with a claimed accuracy of +/-2%

      Nothing need be installed on the PC, and it doesn't rely on a PC to store data; the gateway device records the data and is the web server.

      The manufacturer seems pretty open; they publish the XML format and there are plenty of people reading the device with PHP scripts and logging to SQL databases for more flexible & permanent data storage. There are a few iPhone apps and I think there is a Android app, or talk about one. You can export the data from the gateway in second, minute, hour, daily, or montly format, with the follow capacities:

      ~2 days of per-minute data
      ~66 minutes of per-second data
      ~58 days of per-hour data (likely longer... I've only had mine for 58 days!)

      One caveat: the device that connects to the power panel (a pair of current clamps and a pair of voltage taps) communicates with the gateway via power line. Seems like many of the problems people have are related to power line communications, either due to electical noise or other power line communications devices (e.g. X-10) in the house. Some people have success with filters (extra cost), others never seem to solve these problems.

      I think it meets the poster's requirements for a), b), and c). It cost me $243 Canadian delivered to my door in 3 days from a Canadian supplier

      http://www.powermeterstore.com/p7774/ted_5000_home_energy_monitor.php

      No connection to either company here. Just a very happy customer.

      --
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  25. Anonymous Coward by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://http://dev.hci.uma.pt/sawa This platform has recording, charts, data export, policies. etc.. you can integrate your sensors and you can modify the platform as well

  26. Re:Brultech ECM1240 is about $150 in default confi by tedpearson · · Score: 1

    Windows initially is fine, I just don't want to run Parallels 24/7.

  27. Budget Buster by HogGeek · · Score: 1

    It's beyond your budget, but a friend of mine was "showing" me his egauge...

    About $500

  28. Re:Brultech ECM1240 is about $150 in default confi by Old+time+hacker · · Score: 1

    +1 for the brultech stuff. I have 4 ECM-1240s and also a TED device. The brultech stuff is much more useful -- though it doesn't agree with the TED device on the actual power consumed by the house. I need to do some experimentation to see which is right...

  29. Empower Software. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Check out:
    http://www.empowersoftware.ca/
    Might be what you're looking for. Not sure if it's in production yet, though.

  30. they don't want a port that makes free power easy by Joe+The+Dragon · · Score: 1

    they don't want a port that makes free power easy. No they want to brake the seal to get at that.

  31. KNX? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Maybe you can find something here:
    http://www.knx.org/knx/knx-applications/smart-metering/knx-metering-is-smart/

  32. Jeules by synthparadox · · Score: 1

    I go to CMU and I did my capstone in Embedded Devices last year. One of the other groups was doing something that was almost exactly what the OP asked for. The project was called Jeules and you can probably still contact the team members to get some more information about it.
    Their wiki unfortunately is locked down now, but it used to have the exact parts list and some of the circuit diagrams to build the system.
    http://jeules.org/

  33. Re:they don't want a port that makes free power ea by profplump · · Score: 1

    It would be pretty hard to hack the meter if the pins just output a blip (or change polarity, or any other binary indicator) for every X units of energy are consumed, which is all the information the meter really provides in the first place. That sort of signal could be read directly by a serial port if you really didn't want to build an interface, or converted to a real digital signal with a pretty trivial circuit.

    That being said, it's not that difficult to build a circuit that optically reads the LCD "wheel" indicator and blips when it goes around.

  34. More than $150 but completely awesome by schnozzy · · Score: 1

    I use a branch current monitor from PowerLogic (BCM42) coupled with a Barionet-50 to perform monitoring of every circuit in the house simultaneously. Some details can be found here:

    http://blog.insidesystems.net/modbusrtu-via-tcp-serial-gateway-with-ruby

    The kinds of analysis you can perform with this are tons of fun. For instance, how much does that desuperheater in my geothermal unit really help the water heater? Has a lightbulb in one of my floodlights gone out? Did somebody leave the refrigerator door open? Has the water softener stuck again causing the well pump to work overtime? This approach lets you monitor WAY more than just consumption.

  35. Maybe currentcost by Booker · · Score: 2, Informative
    The currentcost meters are fairly cheap, OSX-capable I think, and very popular in Europe so there are lots of little scripts for them. In the us you can find them at http://currentcost.net/buynowmain.html

    The DIY rig at http://openenegymonitor.org/ is fairly straightforward, even if you're not that technically inclined....

    Otherwise I'd just echo the suggestion to suck it up for the extra $50 and get the Ted 5000

    My recent time-waster is finding a way to make all these different gadgets able to talk to all the various websites ...

    1. Re:Maybe currentcost by Oshawapilot · · Score: 1

      I own a CurrentCost ENVI. The current cost units do have basic device-level drivers for OSX but the interface software required to upload the data to Google Powermeter is (sadly) Windows only. It's one of the biggest gripes in the CurrentCost message forums but the developers appear complacent on the subject.

      As such I've been forced to run Windows 24/7 via Parallels with the sole task of running the Google Powermeter application in Windows instead of OSX. Frustrating.

      Frustration aside, I do like the unit, but I discovered shortly after my purchase that it only partially supports tiered pricing - it does support two tiers (day and night) with selectable rates and times, but our local utility uses three tiers with each coming into effect at various times of day - off peak, mid peak, and full peak. The ENVI has no ability to be programmed to support this - what I did was program it for the "average" price between mid=peak and on-peak so that it is at least relatively close on the price display.

      I'm hoping eventually GPM will also add more options - it supports only *one* tarrif rate, making it even less useful for calculating pricing. It does graph the information nicely though.

    2. Re:Maybe currentcost by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The currentcost monitors right now don't monitor voltage, meaning you aren't getting true power, just an estimate. Voltage fluctuates throughout the day, it isn't a constant. This could lead to some inaccuracies.

      Products like the TED and BrulTechs offerings are a lot more accurate due to using voltage in their calculations.

    3. Re:Maybe currentcost by devitto · · Score: 1

      Totally love the Current Cost devices - HackADay had an article on how to interface a ~£10 device (from e-bay) with Google Powermeter.
      - which works perfectly!
      (I've moved to rrdtool, as I want 6-second resolution, and GPM only does 10-minute, but I'm still tweaking)

      They are the easiest thing in the world to integrate, cat /dev/ttyUSB0 and you get a little XML showing temp and the power of the 3 sensor inputs every 6 seconds !

      Current Cost support is fantastic too - got a reply to two techie questions in less than 24 hours.

      E-On give these to Their UK customers - but there is a big backorder delay for free ones.

  36. Measure electricity, natural gas and water usage by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    There is also an system called Enymate on the market which measures all electricity, natural gas and water usage. Here is user review how to use this device to save on your natural gas bill.

  37. There are two good devices around that price by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The Energy Detective is pretty good, but I like the Brultech ECM-1240 even better.

  38. need individual circuit monitoring by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    All these meters measure the entire house together. IMHO what's wanted is a meter with individual current clamps for each circuit (like 20 - 40 current taps), and two or three voltage taps (one per phase).

    Such things do exist: half a decade ago I have seen one on offer that had the CT's on PCB's with a spacing meant to match standard American breakers, but it was expensive and had crappy proprietary Windows 3.1 control software so it was a real non-starter.

    Trying to correlate which device is using the power by time-of-day is just FAIL, and futile for small-using devices. If the end goal is to correlate behavior with electricity cost, or project the savings an investment in X would bring, more resolution's needed than a single measure for the whole house. Remember, you already have a single meter for the whole house: the one the power company installed! Yeah, it doesn't log, but what's really wanted is OUTLET resolution, not TIME resolution. If you got monthly stats for how much power flowed from each outlet, that'd be a lot more useful for conservation than per-second stats on power for the whole house.

    Ideally I would like to see things like power strips that measure per socket, and an overall system that collects data over HomePlug or something, and more devices that report their own use. I should be able to get conclusions like ``this extension cord is costing me 10% extra.''

    I really like the original question, though. I worry the ``every little bit counts'' mantra is leading people to compulsively bicker with each other about turning off lights, while washing their clothes in hot water. In effect they are choosing energy saving strategies that inconvenicence themselves as much as possible, because inconvenience assuages guilt, when proper goal-seeking would knock off the power-saving strategies that don't cause inconvenience first. ``Every little bit counts'' could lead to waste as well: for example, hand-washing dishes because people think any involvement of a machine is consumerism america waste blah blah, while in fact hand-washing uses more energy than the better machines.

    The place where time resolution might become useful is if you have different electricity rates per hour, but I think few utilities offer that to small customers (most offer it to big ones!).

  39. Zigbee maybe by Darinbob · · Score: 1

    What you want is a Zigbee enabled monitor in the home and a smart meter outside the home. The two can then communicate with each other. This shows entire home usage though, not just for a single device. Zigbee Alliance and WiFi Alliance are cooperating, so I presume some sort geek friendly device exists.

  40. webcam + image processing + sample db + cache by Mike+D.+Kristopeit · · Score: 0
    how about a webcam fixed on your electric meter? some custom image processing software would have to be written, certainly not trivial, but as certainly doable.

    from there, dump the samples into a database, build something to cache reports on based on increasing time frames, and build some views and graphs on those caches however you like.

    really, the power company should offer you these charts the same as they offer online bill pay.

  41. Run this query ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Select * from Google Where accuracy like '.0000?????1' and precision like 'whocares' and OS="darwin" and MadeIn="China" and PNP=true.
    You may need to refine the syntax a little, but hey, you want us to do *everything* for you?

  42. I've built my own by baileydau · · Score: 2, Informative

    In conjunction with getting solar power at home, I've also set up real time usage monitoring.

    I've had a stand alone power monitor for a while (our state Government offered them + a bunch of CFLs and other stuff for $50). However it doesn't have any PC connectivity. One day I was looking in the meter box, and I realised that the sensor was just a clamp meter around the input wires.

    I already had a clamp current meter attachment for my multimeter (which also has RS232 out), so I put the clamp around the same incomming wires, connected it to my multimeter and then to my PC (via an RS232 -> USB cable). From there I have some scripts to take readings and enter them into a database as well as a web interface for output. Fortunately for me, the meter box is just outside of the room where the PCs are, so it was easy to wire up.

    I actually did this setup in a number of stages. Initially, I used some software for my multimeter to plot / save to text file the raw (amperage ) data. I then started batch importing it into the database and calculating wattages etc from there. Now it all happens automatically. Readings are taken at 1 minute intervals.

    Even though I already had all the parts, they cost well under your budget. From memory their original costs were:

        * clamp meter attachment (Digitek QM1565) $25 (see http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?keywords=QM1565&keyform=KEYWORD&SUBMIT.x=0&SUBMIT.y=0)
        * multimeter with RS232 (Digitek QM1538) $50 (NB. this model is no longer available, don't know what an equivalent would be)
        * RS232 -> USB $6 (from eBay)

    Now I live in Australia, so your meter box setup may be different to ours. In mine, the meter and circuit breakers etc are mounted on a board in the box. This board has hinges on one side, so you can swing it out to get behind it. That's where the wires are that you need to put the clamp around. Obviously you want to be very careful back there, but there *shouldn't* be any bare wires etc. If in doubt, you could get an electrician to do this for you.

    I've put a sample of our median usage and production on Imageshack http://img31.imageshack.us/i/electricityusageandprod.png/

    Here is the usage and production for a single day http://img163.imageshack.us/i/usageprodction20100915.png/

    Having this type of data is great for tracking down where your usage is going.

    --
    Ever stop to think ... and forget to start again?
  43. Just don't pay your bill by ibsteve2u · · Score: 1

    They'll call you about once a day, and you divide what they demand right now by your cost per kilowatt/hour.

    --
    Orwell: "In a Time of Universal Deceit, telling the Truth is a Revolutionary Act"
  44. The electric meter will sap and impurify you. by wsanders · · Score: 1

    PG&E was very close to rolling out the capability for nearly everyone in California to look at their power usage in near-real time online, but public hysteria over the "RF" generated by smart meters has halted rollout in many locations.

    The recent gas line explosion really has called out the pitchfork and torches types, so I except most other locations in the US to have this a lot sooner than California.

    Of course PG&E really wants the capablity to charge us double on the hottest days, but they would also like to be able to offer reduced rates if you charge an electric vehicle at night. Right now, if you have an EV you have to put in on a separate meter to get cheaper nighttime electricity for it.

    --
    Give a man a fish and you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish, and he'll say "WHERE'S MY FISH, YOU IDIOT?"
    1. Re:The electric meter will sap and impurify you. by Planesdragon · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Of course PG&E really wants the capablity to charge us double on the hottest days

      Wait, you mean they want the capacity to raise price when demand spikes, so as to help the market forces discourage use when reduced use causes the most benefit to the market, and thus allow them to stretch out their infrastructure allotment and help save the planet?

      Shocking, SHOCKING I say! :)

  45. Overkill DIY solution... by dj.delorie · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I had that desire too, but my electronics skills were up to an overkill DIY solution...
    http://www.delorie.com/electronics/powermeter/
    I record watt-seconds for each of 64 circuits once per second to a linux server.

    1. Re:Overkill DIY solution... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I had that desire too, but my electronics skills were up to an overkill DIY solution...
      http://www.delorie.com/electronics/powermeter/
      I record watt-seconds for each of 64 circuits once per second to a linux server.

      Okay...how much to build another one of these with detailed instructions on how to install it?

    2. Re:Overkill DIY solution... by jonsmirl · · Score: 1

      That's a nice board. Checkout our light dimmer that includes current sensing and 6lowpan radio. We used a shunt design which has much lower cost.

      There are similar chips to the ADE7753 out now with costs close to $1. You can probably source the CTs in China for less than $1.

    3. Re:Overkill DIY solution... by seanadams.com · · Score: 3, Informative
      This is very cool! But you have a big problem unless I'm missing something. I only briefly skimmed your code so maybe I missed this, but it doesn't look like you are accounting for power factor. In order to do that you need to measure the voltage on each phase, ideally at a few KHz, and generate CT samples at the same rate which are multiplied by this measurement. This way you properly deal not only with low PF loads, but also variance and distortion in the AC line voltage supplied by the utility.

      Some devices can have very low PFs, for example insteon switches and other small loads, and lightly loaded switching power supplies, it can be as little as 0.1x. A ceiling fan running at low speed, or a CFL might be something like 0.4. So the number you are calculating is properly called VA (volt-amps) and is not the same as watts, which is what you're actually consuming and being billed for.

      I see you have put calibration factors in for each circuit. You may find that the reason you're needing these at all is because those loads are low PF and are reading higher than they should.

    4. Re:Overkill DIY solution... by seanadams.com · · Score: 2, Informative

      Ehh.. never mind. I see you are using ADE7753 which watches the line voltage.

    5. Re:Overkill DIY solution... by FriedmannSolution5 · · Score: 1

      Watt-seconds?! awesome. Also in terms of a DIY open-source solution take a look at this project: http://www.solarnetwork.net/developmentGuides.php built using Java on Linux and defines interfaces already implemented for the Cent-a-meter and a bunch of major solar charge controllers and grid-connect inverters. And listens to the weather, the grid electricity price...very extendible, enterprise level code based on OSGi.

    6. Re:Overkill DIY solution... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Nice! I also did an over-the-top solution a few years back: http://www.kondra.com/circuit/circuit.html The write up is a bit old at this point as I've replaced the boards with custom hardware that uses a true meter grade chip per circuit so I get everything including power factor with certified billing grade accuracy. Nice setup though... kudos to you!

  46. Check here: by Dr.Diesel · · Score: 1

    I did this exact thing not long ago: http://www.streamlinemechatronics.com/power/index.php Schematics and source are already posted. Total project cost was $150.

  47. rrd and ganglia !? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I don't know anything myself, but I work with people that do know all that pretty well :)

    I'll just put a link with their names in there: https://www.grid5000.fr/mediawiki/index.php/Put_Some_Green_In_Your_Experiments

    they basically monitor cluster with wattmeters that gives them results into rrd database they plot with ganglia (if I remember well), feel free to contact them/follow links here and there on the page.

  48. Phidgets by mcamino · · Score: 1

    I have been using a custom Phidgets for the past couple years to monitor electrical usage in my house. I have one of these http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=8&product_id=3503 to monitor each branch circuit in my electrical panel. I then have http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=0&product_id=1018 this connected to my main pc to do all the data logging. I have written a custom c++ application to dump the raw data into a mysql database and then i have PHP to query data and datasets for reporting. This comes close to your budget if you only need to monitor a couple circuits. If you monitor all 26 of your branch circuits in your house, then this can become fairly expensive compared to your budget however all the other electrical monitoring agents you will find will be several THOUSAND dollars for some "professional enterprise data center solution" to do the same amount of logging and same features which the phidgets can do for 1/10 the price. Instead of spending $10,000 you spend maybe $500 for the same or better features and compatibility.

  49. Modbus isn't that Hard by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 1

    Plenty of solutions that will work if you are willing to poll serial links for mod bus registers at a reasonable cost.

  50. TED has API - some example code for AppEngine by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Use TED hardware, about $199-$235 these days. Still pricey. http://www.theenergydetective.com/store/ted-5000
    Activate with Google PowerMeter for decent charting. It charts 10-minute kW and daily/monthly kWh.

    Or, use the TED API yourself to grab power readings (this is a good feature - other similar products don't seem to have.) Chart locally, or send data to a site online, (much like PowerMeter.) Here is some source code to grab power readings and send to custom AppEngine.
    http://code.google.com/p/watchmyted/
    http://code.google.com/p/myenergyuse/

  51. hardware mod by theSender · · Score: 1

    1. buy a kill a watt. 2. hack it open (physically). 3. open your breaker box. 4. disconnect the wires from the hot side of the box to your main breaker. 5. connect the wires you just unhooked to the plug side of the kill a watt. 6. connect the socket side of the kill a watt to your main. 7. repeat with the other wires. 8. you have just setup a whole house power monitor. all the KAW is, is a meter, just put it in higher upstream. you guys are over thinking this.

  52. Lessons in environmental insanity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Heres a hint... A KW/hr is a huge amount of energy. Don't sweat shit that is only on for a short time during the day including microwaves, lights, ovens...etc. "Realtime" usage is irrelevent and won't do squat to help you understand the constituent parts of your energy usage.

    All you need to do is build a spreadsheet and itemize wattage of gear thats always on or on for a significant portion of a day. If you have outdoor lights that are on for 8hrs every day calculate the wattage of the lights and divide the portion of time they are on by the day to come up with a constant wattage for the line item. This information can then be used to compare usage of all items and make informed decisions in an apples-to-apples manner.

    The furnace blower motor is the single most egregious consumer of total energy in most households.

  53. Zigbee Sensor by Doc+Ruby · · Score: 1

    What's the cheapest Zigbee/controller/sensor that I could cook up to do this? Then I could write Linux apps to manage the data from the Zigbee network.

    --

    --
    make install -not war

  54. What is the knowledge supporting the question? by beachdog · · Score: 1

    The big picture, the large scale energy consumption events in our lives, we only know to one or two decimal places. The whole research and decision making process, for a large group of Slashdot commentators like you and me, boils down to find an energy waste and fix it.

    See:
    http://www.withouthotair.com/ ; An outstanding accomplishment at viewing the energy situation using consistent units and definitions.

    Because many energy usage problems require outside information, my experience is a pad of paper and careful collection of outside information is a big part of reducing energy usage. High quality local data (just a few points are needed) and outside data (got by copying it onto a pad of paper) are needed for energy analysis. I use Gnumeric for my spreadsheet. It helps to save results on the computer and on paper printouts as a specific energy usage problem is addressed.

    For the last go round at measuring my home energy instances, I used a Kill-A-Watt meter (Frys.com in Northern California occasionally puts it on sale for under $20.). Note, the Kill-A-Watt will not measure a 1200 watt microwave oven (too much current) and it will not measure a 220 volt electric water heater.

    While the Kill-A-Watt told me my refrigerator was an energy hog, it was not a whole lot of help at determining precisely what was wrong with the refrigerator that made it an energy hog. I did a couple of tests exploring various ideas: bad insulation, too many door opening events, weak door gasket magnets, dirty condenser coils, and an unfairly optimistic energy usage rating system. I eventually bought a new refrigerator. That key purchase required going to the store before my wife, copying all the energy usage and model info and price, and then shopping with the wife and a spreadsheet in hand to balance the wife's desire for style and design with energy usage and price issues solved in advance for many of the choices at hand.

    The end result was a new refrigerator that has a 1.56 year payoff period.

    One of the problems I am looking at now is "Does the gasoline burned by my wife's commute and my commute exceed the amount of energy consumed by the whole house?" It is another case of some outside numbers, some inside numbers and the outcome will be at best a 2 decimal place result. And what will I do when I find the result?

  55. Onewire, rrdtool and rrdgraph solution by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If you have a 's0' pulse terminal on your meter you could connect a onewire counter (http://www.hobby-boards.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=42) to it and use a onewire interface on your mac (http://www.embeddeddatasystems.com/DS9490R--USB-to-1-Wire-iButton-Adapter_p_131.html) to read the counter. As stated in another post here, if you don't have a pulse terminal on the meter to connect to, most meters can be read optically. If you have the blinky led type of meter, use something like this:

    https://www.m.nu/ledpuls-detektor-p-57.html (Swedish site) , a detector that fits (duct taped in my case :) over the blinking led on the meter and gives an electrical pulse for every blink. Wire it up to the onewire counter linked above and you're all set.

    This type of optical sensor is also available for the "spinning disc" meter type, but instead of just a photodiode as in the led pulse detector, a normal led is added to illuminate the edge of the spinning disc. The photo diode picks up on the somewhat darker reflection when the black mark on the edge of the disc passes: https://www.m.nu/reflexdetektor-p-93.html (Swedish site) , detector for the spinning disc on the meter.

    Put this all together, add rrdtool to monitor the onewire counter and rrdgraph to graph the rrd database, and you'll end up with something like this:

    http://www.temperatur.nu/forum/guider-artiklar-how-to/mata-elforbrukning-via-1wire-och-rrdtool-t287.html (Swedish again), the forum post gives a very detailed description of how to set it all up, all rrd code needed, a bash script for reading the onewire counter with crontab and a bit down in the post some pics of the end result!

  56. My electric company offers this: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://www.southern-electric.co.uk/gasandelectricity/iplan/

    They have an older version which I am using that gives daily/weekly/monthly usage as well as what I am drawing right now, but doesn't let you access the data.

    It's useful and you start to play the game of turn stuff off and see how much your usage goes down! I found the xBox 360 and the home cinema amp are the biggest consumers after the cooker and shower.

    Video here of how it works:

    http://www.southern-electric.co.uk/GasAndElectricity/iplanWhatItDoes/#energyTools

    Basically you have an induction coil placed around the main power cable into the house and it figures out how much you are using from that.

  57. I used.... by bool2 · · Score: 1

    For 220V :

    1. 1) A CC128 device
    2. 2) A small python program which logs to an RRD database.
    3. 3) A cron script to update the graphs.

    I also installed this at work on 3-phase.

    Cost:

    • @HOME: Free - I got the sensor + computer interface from the electricity company.
    • @WORK: About GBP 60 - for the sensor + extra clamps for 3-phase.
  58. In NC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Progress energy offers demand usage rates where the rates go up during prime time (say 9 to 9, M-F) and down from the standard rate if you didn't accept demand billing. I augment this with a controller that hooks to all my large usage devices (dryer, a/c, h/w heater, etc) and which controls them during prime time so that they don't run simultaneously (you delay 20 minutes while I run and then you run for a while logic) and thus I exceed a threshold beyond which the power gets expensive. As a byproduct, I get a digital readout of instantaneous power consumption and peak power consumption. No recordings. Saved more than $80 on my bill last month with no real inconvenience. Energy Sentry 9388A

  59. Re:they don't want a port that makes free power ea by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    While I can't say this for all meters, most digital residential meters that I have seen have a small LED that blinks once for every unit of power (watt-hour or some variation thereof). I think it is red / IR so you can strap a detector on the meter to gauge power use.

    It takes the place of the IR "blip" that occurs when the analog wheel turns.

  60. Re:Brultech ECM1240 is about $150 in default confi by marcmerlin · · Score: 1

    This is because most CTs (current transformers) are not calibrated properly by the device they're connected to. I used 3 different CTs on the same load in my setup and made sure they were reading about the same. With the ECM1240, you can adjust offsets to make the CT readings "just right" should they be off a bit when you get them.
    I worked with the owner, and he does care about getting as correct values as possible and made his device very tweakable.

    Marc

  61. "smart" powermeters by Pouic · · Score: 1

    In France most recent powermeters have an output called "teleinfo" which we can have activated, basically a kind of serial link (output only), repeatedly giving lost of parameters like instant watts, actual indexes in watt.hours and more. This kind of meter can be found second hand on ebay I think, and it is just a matter of demodulating the (well documented) 'teleinfo' output. What I did with this output, is to log the status every minute into a postgresql database (since 07/2008 now) and then it is easy to graph the data. You can see how often and how long the fridge is working etc... As an example of the result: http://2oo4.free.fr/teleinfo.jpg (in French, but you can figure out with the units). Be sure to match the characteristics of your power network (we have 230 volts/50Hz here) Kind Regards, Benoît.

  62. CurrentCost + py-power-cost by 1stvamp · · Score: 1

    The newer CurrentCost meters are not only inexpensive, but also provide a serial interface (over USB).

    A friend of mine has created py-power-cost to extract this data into a DB and generate reports/graphs viewable via a web app.

    --
    Wes
  63. Inexpensive and open stuff from EKM by hmbJeff · · Score: 1

    Check http://ekmmetering.com./ They sell simple metering units that can either meter small (up to 30 amp, I think) circuits directly, or any size circuit using external current sensor rings. You can chain together a number of meters with simple 2-wire serial connections and attach them to a net-connected controller. The controller can be read from anywhere with a simple TCP socket call or they provide a free app that does it. The app runs on Windows, Mac or Linux. I plan to use their stuff for a networked submetering system for the co-op I live in, to allow us to consolidate down from 30 utility meters (which cost $14 per month just to be hooked up) down to 4 meters. This will also allow us to share and net-meter a large solar array we are developing.

  64. home power by Dr+Max · · Score: 1

    I work for a company that provides a meter, and logging service. For a single phase house load we would use an EDMI mark 10. You'll need an electrician to install it, but it has all the logging abilities and is quite accurate (+-.05%). Alternatively you can get a multimeter for your computer and hook it up to a CT (current transformer) which you clip around the main line coming into the house (no bare contacts no electrician) the current in the wire induces a current in the ct; (a lot of multimeter cards have a logging ability) and if you log those currents at intervals, and multiply those by the fairly constant voltage (240/110V). You’ll have watts over time. You can tell a lot about a person when you know when and how much electricity they use (for example when they use the washing machine, when they get up, when they have a roast dinner). I understand this story is from a few days ago, but hope it still helps.

    --
    Rocket Surgeon.
  65. ECM-1240 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    have you looked into the Brultech meter? ECM-1240 or ECM-1220?
    Under 200 dollars and you have the option to go directly to Google or you can just use the free software and view it on your own. It has 7 channels which you can double upo n. It comes in Wireless option.
    Very handy
    www.etherbee.com or www.brultech.com

  66. low cost - commercial grade by rodrigo1979 · · Score: 1

    checkout the Wattnode. This device does a lot for the money. There are many different configuration options, and plenty of technical info on their site. http://www.ccontrolsys.com/products/pulse_output.html datasheet: http://www.ccontrolsys.com/downloads/Data_Sheet_WNB_Pulse.pdf checkout the application notes as well: http://www.ccontrolsys.com/support/app_notes.html

  67. Here's the solution you are looking for: by another_other · · Score: 1

    This is the solution you are looking for: http://www.wattvision.com/ This is actually being developed by a friend of mine. Let me know if you need any additional details.

  68. They don't really want us to conserve that much by jjhall · · Score: 1

    My particular meter does not have this feature. It has the 2 LED (more likely 1 LED, 1 photo detector) interface, but it does not work the way most do. I was considering getting one of those Black & Decker power monitor devices, but my meter is specifically listed as not compatible because the interface doesn't operate the same way.

    As the GP said, it may be possible to make a device to read the LCD "wheel" but not nearly as easily as a simple blinking light would be. For now I'm just relying on the power company's (crummy) website to get 2 days-delayed data.

    Personally I think the power companies are against the consumers having real-time in-home display. While they always push conservation in order to keep their PR campaigns in full force, we have to remember where they make their money. They don't want us to see a blinking red light on our wall to remind us that there are too many lights left on in the house, or that Jr. forgot to turn his TV off when he went to sleep. They push the EnergyStar appliances and tell us to swap out our old water heaters and refrigerators, "which will save $20 a year in energy expenses! OMG!!!" What they don't want us to do is have an easy way to find the little things we are leaving on unnecessarily which could easily shave $20 or more *per month* off of an average geek's bill.

    What I have been considering is a full setup from Brultech. http://www.etherbee.com/BrultechSampleSite/store/category.php?id_category=15 I haven't taken the chance to go figure out which model would fully cover my panel (I need to go see how many circuits I have and what size of main supply I have) but I think the $400 range models would be enough. With an average power bill of $115, if I could see a 20% savings by better managing my power usage it would pay for itself in a year and a half.

    In the end, I think the power companies prefer to have us looking at "the big picture" which tends to bury the details. Since "the devil is in the details" they are providing us with just enough information to make the majority of people think they are doing everything they can to help.