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Ask Slashdot: How Should I Furnish (And Secure) My Work-From-Home Office?
"If someone gave you a big chunk of change to build a small one- or two-room office, what would you do?" asks long-time Slashdot reader darkpixel2k, as he plans to build a small office out in his backyard.
My plan is to trench CAT6 from our ISP fiber DMARC over to the ~12x20 building, wire the structure up for network and power, and furnish it with a small rack, UPS, switch, router, a desk, whiteboard walls, a wireless access point, and an air conditioner for the summer heat... While I have the "big picture" idea in my head, I don't really have a grasp of the fine details that would make it a comfortable work environment... Should I put down carpet and one of those plastic mats for chairs? A friend suggested I wire up speakers so I don't have to listen to my terrible laptop speakers, and a large flat-screen TV so I can display dashboards and statistics.
Lastly, physical security is somewhat of an issue. While everything is insured, downtime of a few days or weeks due to meth heads would be a huge impact to the company and also on my paycheck. I was talking with the local company that builds small office-like structures, sheds, and barns, and they said they can "double up" the 2x4s to strengthen the walls and make a stronger door, but I need to supply my own lock. Should I use some off-the-shelf lock from a big-box hardware store? Should I install a digital lock?
There's more details in the original submission -- but it's also a lot of fun to speculate about what you'd do with a big chunk of change to build your own work-from-home office. So leave your best answers for darkpixel2k in the comments. How should he furnish (and secure) his work-from-home office?
Lastly, physical security is somewhat of an issue. While everything is insured, downtime of a few days or weeks due to meth heads would be a huge impact to the company and also on my paycheck. I was talking with the local company that builds small office-like structures, sheds, and barns, and they said they can "double up" the 2x4s to strengthen the walls and make a stronger door, but I need to supply my own lock. Should I use some off-the-shelf lock from a big-box hardware store? Should I install a digital lock?
There's more details in the original submission -- but it's also a lot of fun to speculate about what you'd do with a big chunk of change to build your own work-from-home office. So leave your best answers for darkpixel2k in the comments. How should he furnish (and secure) his work-from-home office?
How did this retarded question make its way onto Slashdot? I don't really have an answer for you. But, I just wanted to mention that you should NOT try to get a tax break for the air conditioning, the IRS will ream you.
I suggest a table and chair, and a bookcase. Situate the table and chair such that you can gaze out a window.
If you want news from today, you have to come back tomorrow.
Make sure you orient the building appropriately. Nothing like having to get up and close the drapes because the light from a window shines right on your screen between 11 and 11:45.
I'd also cover power. Outlets at too low or too high a height are a bother, and so is a paucity of them.
Before you do anything - dig a big hole and put one of those giant concrete septic tanks in it. For extra special paranoia, punch a hole in one side, put a metal door in it and then fill out a trench filled with sand so you have an escape tunnel. Put a sump pump (with appropriate battery backup), a ladder and stock it with whatever you need to survive the next four years.
The 21st Century approach to the 1960's bomb shelter.
Can't be too careful these days.
Faster! Faster! Faster would be better!
Just buy a container and convert it. Steel floor, walls, roof, doors. Paint it distinctive colors, (maybe a rainbow) and should someone try to swipe it, it will stick out like a sore thumb.
"Transparent" is a shit show that trades on every stereotype going. A man in drag is NOT a transsexual.
Tinfoil the walls (copper screen) and put noisemakers on the studs (glue cheap speakers). Make sure window glass shakes. Tinfoil for the hat, too.
I use a shotgun, myself. Always be ready to guard the door and windows.
My office theme is "crazy man with computer and shotgun", so I didn't have to spend any extra money on that.
If you're setting up a full-sized home office in its own building, why are you limiting yourself to a laptop? Set yourself up with a proper desktop computer with a nice, big monitor, good speakers and as much RAM and disk space as you want. If you need to take things into your company's offices, you can always either use a flash drive or transfer what you need to your laptop, but if you're going to this much expense, there's no reason to pinch pennies here. And, while I'm thinking of it, put in a good floor safe; not just for added security, but to protect your records in case of fire or flood.
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made of skulls. I recommend lava and/or pools of sharks or piranha (whichever's in season). For security nothing beats savage panthers, but you can use tigers in a pinch. You'll probably want to invest in a pool of acid and winch/pulley system to lower intruders into. There's a pretty good guide over here.
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Bear in mind that a smaller outdoor structure will not be as secure as a larger dwelling (and property insurance may not cover anything valuable in it, you should check). You will also need to keep it heated in winter, if you are anywhere it gets cold, or the equipment will suffer (from condensation, if nothing else).
I would not recommend working next to a rack of gear, it's noisy. There's a reason we have machine rooms and offices and they're not the same space.
So, what I suggest doing is to install insulation, heating, cooling, network cable, power, etc, as you have described. Then install whatever seating, desking, etc, that you might like. Then install basic networking gear (that you aren't going to be too upset with losing in case of a burglary). Then install a suitable display screen (when a 27" 4K display costs ~$600, perhaps you could cope with losing one to a burglary - depends how well off or how well insured you are, and what your local crime rate is). Use a laptop to compute with and take it indoors when you're not using it. Leave the rack of compute gear inside too, in a room you are not in most of the time. Don't leave any data storage out there, put that in your house also.
Obscure the windows in this outhouse while you are not using it; blinds, curtains, or shutters (locked or interior, so the burglar can't just open them and take a peek). Do not be seen loading the outhouse up with gear either, or someone may make a mental note and come back later, when you are out.
It sounds cool, but bear security in mind.
"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence over public relations, for Nature cannot be fooled"
For the door, make sure you are not using a hollow core door, and that you reinforce the frame, while also using an aftermarket strike/kickplate that has been developed for security, as that will make it much more difficult to just kick the door in. I would also looking at getting a core from a good company, not just some off the shelf part, because the better locks can be hard to find. Also, something that is more than just your normal pin and tumbler lock, like a dimple lock, can help. ABUS makes really good locks, and I would recommend looking at them. There's a few others too. You might want to look outside the residential core offerings they have into the commercial grade ones. (make sure to look for something as close to bump-proof and rake-proof as possible. Again, things like dimple locks will help here.) Same goes for the protection plates on the doors, so someone can't just card your door open or anything. No solution is going to stop a determined attacker forever, but doing these things will make it significantly harder to breach the door, and makes it more likely that someone maybe tries to kick it in once or twice and then leaves.
What kind of employer would provide that kind of an open checkbook? Oh wait...
Nevermind.
Try to reduce ambient noise as much as possible. Living in the same space as a whole lot of kit is not good.
I hate noise and a standard outdoor building is usually very noisy.
Come up with some solution to put that rack below ground level. Think out of the box if you can't just pour a container. Perhaps repurpose a large concrete septic tank or something. Sound levels are reduced and security increased.
Rather than using conventional tech to dump the heat into the outside air with a noisy compressor unit, radiate it into the ground with a geothermal pump solution.
Don't just make the walls stronger - create a sound gap in them using staggered studs for noise reduction. And don't forget the insulation like so many other backyard building solutions.
...is your company going to give you a rider/policy stating that they will cover the outbuilding? ...or will you have to add it on to your homeowners insurance? Since it's business-related, they may make you get a separate policy.
Also, depending on where you live, be sure to check your HOA bylaws/regs (if you have a HOA) to make sure that a) you can build something, b) that you can use it for business purposes. Would suck to go to all the trouble, have a neighbor complain, you not gone through channels, and you have to tear it down.
Why bother outfitting your home with all that crap? Just being your laptop home from the office, or, better yet -- leave your work at the office.
If you've got a "chunk of change" burning a hole in your pocket and want to spend it on this kind of stuff, renovate or expand the actual house instead of building another building that needs its own climate control, power, and security. Build an addition. Then when you don't need for a home office anymore, you can use it for more regular household space instead of an inconveniently-located additional bedroom.
I rarely work from home for my government IT job. When I do, I'm sitting at the kitchen table to keep myself honest. I could have set up my work laptop in my home office and plug into one of my 24" monitors. However, I could easily find myself running scripts on my own systems rather than writing comments on Slashdot while waiting for a work-related script to get done.
Keep it simple. If you're worried about the neighborhood, anything will attract attention.
Make it look like you're rebuilding a bathroom, or something like that.
Fancy external locks are a major no, no. They show you have something to hide. Discrete, strong internal security works better, if you're that worried.
A big battery UPS, and a dedicated generator, will cover most power issues. A cell phone that can be tethered or be a wifi hotspot, as a backup plan.
And the comment about air conditioning is incorrect. Make sure you have last years electric, and other utilities. Usage above the previous year can be deducted, even if you are not taking a home office deduction. That is assuming you file a schedule C. Full time employee, no break, unless your employer reimburses you.
LOL! The censors are quick tonight! But the fact is, if you want to secure your office, use cameras to identify who is coming in and going. Detect unwanted entries and have a security system that responds accordingly. You're putting valuable equipment in a place where it can more readily be stolen.
As you live rurally, I'd suggest wiring up a decent UPS + small generator (or solar top-up). If its not already mandatory, double-glazed windows and noise damping insulation are not that expensive and worthwhile. I also found a heat-pump and blinds a must. Putting in a toilet and handbasin was also worthwhile when I had a stand-alone office, and I do like my couch in my new home-office.
If your equipment is going to be noisy, it may make sense to have a separate area for it - in my case I simply modified the noise making equipment to be quieter.
With respect of security, it really depends on where you live and the risk factor - you might find it better to simply bolt your computer to the wall, and/or have a remote mirror of its [encrypted] contents so you can get up and running again in a hurry regardless of what happens. I'm pretty sure a second computer located offsite will be cheaper then building your own version of Fort Knox.
If physical security is an issue, do it right.
Around here they built a bunch of mini-police stations at every train station. They used metal studs about 6 inches apart in the "holding cell" part of building. That was covered inside and out with 7.5 mm cement sheeting and they seem to use a stock steel door. They don't have to worry about windows but I would go with a triple glazed or put bars over them but don't make it obvious so maybe like a sun shade or inside. I use protec locks because they are very good locks and they are somewhat unique.
Put that cat6 in a duct and do something about the ground isolation. I would be tempted to move the fibre to the new building and then just use wireless back to the house. A rack means rack mount equipment and that stuff tends to be noisy so it needs to be in a different room and you need to have an insulated wall between them and I would be tempted to build it as an isolated sound wall and in your case, maybe its own exterior door just to keep the office quiet. A modern 19 inch server rack is 600 mm x 1200 mm and needs 1200 mm in front and 600 behind or else you can't slide servers into it or work on it. Access on the side is good. For small computer rooms I do like raised floors but you must make sure the tiles are the same as your rack (so no metric tiles for a two foot rack). Also builders finish floors by cutting tiles to fit the room. In a small computer room, you must make sure the walls are the right size and builders don't like building walls to interior dimensions. If your rack is too tall, you might not be able to get it in the room.
Split air conditioners work great but if you have two rooms, you need two of them and a way to deal with a failure if you have to run the computer 24x7. The smaller ones are more efficient than the larger ones. Figure where the water will go when the A/C drain backs up.
Put in a large electrical panel. More circuit breakers mean you can have stuff fail without taking out everything else. You don't want a cheap USB charger taking out a server.
Be sure to cover all surfaces with aluminum foil!
You could make a nice looking, functional office bldg, but depending on the general weather conditions where you live it might not be conducive to getting much work done. You should allocate up to 50% of funds for things that go unseen, but will pay off in productivity. With a small structure, wind and temperature differences are more noticeable. Make the walls and ceiling stronger, insulate the floor, walls, ceiling more than code requirements. Electric heat is inexpensive to install and quiet to use. But air conditioning is noisy and can wreck your concentration. A window mount AC is cheap, but will make you crazy with the noise and vibrations. Get one like on a house, and have the outside fan and coils 20ft away from the bldg on a slab.
Carpet will make it quieter, but get the static proof kind like for server rooms. Network connections for such a small room will be trivial and a rack is overkill. With so much invested in it, you should add extra physical security. Such as a metal bar across each window on the inside, and a metal door with a metal frame like in commercial bldgs (the company probably already has this as an option, but they are pricey).
Laptops are convenient, but PCs are cheap and you could get more done with a full size keyboard and monitor. Get a good desk and chair to help avoid back problems.
Burglary is a property crime, not a violent crime. That's robbery.
A wooden shed with a Rottweiler that has a bad tooth should secure the building.
If your company is subsidizing your office, keep all the money; buy a cheap desk and chair, and use wifi. no need to trench for crying out loud. Maybe buy a bigger screen if you don't have a good laptop screen, but really, you're overthinking it.
If money is no object, then put it underground with access tunnel to the house. :-)
Really, you'll be happier. For a small space, the costing between flooring types is negligible. Wood is visually warm, and a decent office chair with hard-floor wheels works beautifully on it.
Yet another rumpleTrumpskin trying to pass off bullshit as truth. According to the Dept of Justice for 2012 and 2013 42.9% of all violent crimes except murder were committed by White Anglo-Saxons, blacks committed 22.4% by blacks, 14.8% by Hispanics, 12.1% by other than whites, blacks, Hispanics and 7.8% by an unknown race.White Anglo-Saxons preferred white victims. 56% of White Anglo-Saxons victims were attacked by other White Anglo-Saxons while only 13.9% victims were attacked by blacks and 11.9% were attacked by Hispanics.
The real criminals are the rumpleTrumpskins trying to demonize the "other: for their own problems
Perhaps he could build a wall around his office?
No the statistics do not support your claim that "Blacks are a massive threat to security, " The Dept of Justice has repeated demonstrated you are just another rumpleTrumpskin trying to blame someone else for YOUR problems.
More than one, and of different types.
Seriously, locks are generally crap. Most all can be easily bump'ed. The touch pad locks are just a few dirt smudges away from giving away your code (or a simple video recording...), and the wireless ones just beg to be hacked.
There are only a couple locks on the market that have any real security, and as such command some real price to them. But the lock is only part of the battle, the door is just as important, and quite frankly, I wouldn't trust a single door out there that you can get at a big box store. I am sure there are other doors out there, but the one I have seen was made by SUR which is what I would call an actually secure door (your wall would fail before the door and lock would).
We were all warned a long time ago that MS products sucked, remember the Magic 8 Ball said, "Outlook not so good"
Some were mentioned elsewhere in the thread.
- Keep NAS and as much other gear as possible in the main building.
- Abloy -a finnish brand- locks are difficult to tamper with, but of course everything should be strong
- heating for winter if required. Perhaps a portable dehumidifier (leave in main building when not needed), all depending on your climate.
- work on a laptop which you can take back to main building, if this has enough processing power. Otherwise something bolted to the office building. But in any case, have data storage in main building
- small, quiet fridge for refreshments. And/or a coffee machine. Though it is ok as well to stretch your legs and get these from main building every few hours.
- mind the location of the windows vs the sun (was mentioned already).
- put your laptop or monitor high enough so you look at the screen straight on, less tiring for the back and neck. With a laptop this means using a separate keyboard. Way back I put my 17" laptop on a stand for this reason, much more comfortable
- a good comfy office chair is important.
- don't put a lock on any paperwork cabinets inside. Your paperwork won't interest thieves unless you do military secret work, they will just damage the cabinets trying to find something valuable for reselling.
- if you like working with music (I personally prefer silence), then this is a good opportunity to use some small semi-pro studio monitors, such as the KRK Rokit series - still affordable and waaay better than multimedia speakers.
Something like this should do it. Nice thing is that you can take it with you if you move.
I have been a self employed work for hire software developer/troubleshooter for 27+ years. So have a lot of experience with work areas.
;) I know when I go to the secure data center. I wear a t-shirt and take headphones for ear protection ;) ;)
;) Thankfully marriage forced some great for me ;) changes ;)
Choice 1, for servers would be lease virtual servers, Where ever it works for you.
Choice 2, if want full control of physical servers, rent a half rack secure space in an established data center that has full power backup, fire control and 24/7 access control security.
Choice 3, rent commercial space at least 2 rooms, one office, one servers and storage.
For access control setup full VPN access for work and management. And only open public ports where needed./wanted.
Do your server stuff using option 1, 2 or 3, I use all 3 options and have never had issues, Don't try to duplicate what they do much better than you ever could do. And the comments about not working where your servers are except when needed IS very valid. They are warm and noisy
I also have an office (2 miles from my home), 2 rooms (one for my office, one for some servers) with a door between and I still work in my home office most of the time
Then make a really nice office work space in your home. And it must be isolated. Dump laptops and go with a nice workstation. Multiple monitors, etc. if you do go with a laptop, get one capable of having a nice docking station, that can support multiple monitors real keyboard, mouse etc. I do have several laptops I use for onsite stuff based on the needs.
I know it really does not address your question. But in my experience your option is not one I would entertain. Because in the past I have tried it. I did everything in my home, various rooms, before I got married
Just dont, put fiber in multimode is fine. You realy do not want a bit of copper between buildings if you can avoid it for data.
As to security outside dogs and guns, alarm with CCTV coverage and monitoring that can access the CCTV is your best bet to get the cops out there. Harding the entrances look for a 3+ point lock set, your meth head isn't picking locks he is kicking down a door.
No sir I dont like it.
I am sure a "few days" downtime wouldn't be a "huge impact" on a company. Get over yourself. Millions work from home everyday. Get a laptop and a regular Internet connection.
Building-design benefits greatly from experience. Use some of the money to employ an architect.
Before asking for "how do I figure out what to do?" (spec) you should define what's up (problem) and determine how to handle it (solution) and then come up with the specification.
"Trench CAT6"???? No, you are unclear on the concept of a)trench b)concuit, and c)CAT-6. Before you ask me why I'm dissing your plan see above about Problem/Solution/Spec. In short, copper bad, fiber-optics provide opto-isolation, CAT-6 won't get you anything CAT-5 won't since you stupidly rely on *one* commodity ISP, and you have nothing to trench for. Short answer: inner-duct with multi-mode fiber will carry 1G, 10G with no electrical connection nor ground issues.
UPS? No. LOL. That's good for your kitchen. If you want solid power get a -48VDC battery pack, a rectifier/charger, and an inverter for AC operations.
Whiteboard walls? How is "what I do with my walls" part of any IT strategy? Do whatever you want with your walls. You want IT advice? See above. You want interior decorations advice, see an interior decorator.
Your concepts of physical security (double up the wall beams and which lock should I supply) are absurd.
Let us know when you have your fortress done.
I'd like the opportunity to drive my car through your front door in 15 seconds and see how great your $3.75 works.
I did try to be helpful... but as other posters have pointed out... SERIOUSLY???
E
For Security - you need to set the building up to reduce attention. You don't want BRAND NEW and you don't want NEGLECTED. Either is a red flag for people casing a building.
For physical security you need to address doors and windows.
Windows - lockable double pane windows with the retainers that prevent the windows from being opened more than 4" (this prevents someone from opening the window and crawling through). Plant rose bushes or other flowering thorny plants directly under the windows and properly prune them to make them an obstacle to approaching the window. Pull shades that are closed at the end of day to prevent snooping.
Doors - Metal door with security frame. A door designed to resist a police ram.
Any buried lines should be encased in PVC conduit from the house to the out building to prevent water intrusion. With separate conduits for different voltages.
Any long term noise generating devices (racks, air conditioning equipment) should be in a separate room with a closed door to prevent noise transfer.
The building should have year round heating and air conditioning. Sweltering in the heat and freezing in the cold is a sure fire way to not get any work done.
Architectural plans are like computer source code with a couple of differences: You only compile once.
It is important to determine whether your wife is a spy. Check to see if the oven has a hidden weapons compartment.
#DeleteChrome
Just truecrypt your machine and use a vpn, then don't worry about the rest....
Keep it simple and hard to crack if they get everything, assume everything gets taken away, and make sure they can't do anything even then.
Of course, thumb screws will make you give everything up....if they are used on the right person
I had to go through a similar setup at the start of last year - with the exception that i had to pay for it all myself, so I was working on a budget.
I got a kitset office - 2.4m x 2.4 meter with a small veranda/sheltered area out the front. This had to fit an existing concrete pad so it was perhaps a little smaller than I would have liked. (But then again, I didn't want a huge building taking up all the space in my back yard!)
I insulated and lined it myself. I was expecting it have issues keeping it warm in winter, but ended up with the exact opposite - with no ceiling space it's very hard to keep cool in summer. I bought an air con unit about a week into using it.
I got a sparky to wire the unit up to the house - mains only (no data). I had to dig the 1.5 meter trench myself. Internet is just via wireless into the house - speed is fine (about 35M) and no worries about redundancy. I use a laptop and have data on my phone so in the event of a blackout (which I wouldn't expect now days) I can just use the laptop and phone for access.
You'll definitely want carpet, I wouldn't bother with a plastic protector. White boards etc too. You want it feel office like imo.
Security - I got an alarm that texts my phone if ever there is a break-in. After a while though I stopped using it and often don't even bother locking the door at night. My laptop comes in to the house with me at night, and the most expensive thing left in there is my keyboard or maybe the air con unit. It's hard to make a space with glass windows/doors secure. The alarm will hopefully scare people off if you are home, but if you're out then they're kinda pointless.
US Population by race.
Sentry guns.
Have gnu, will travel.
Ok, if I were assigned the task to obtain your 'info', heres how it would go down.
First assume you encrypt everything, and use a vpn, and we've not been able to usb/social into your systems or hear/see you type your password(s)...and your info is time critical.
Either we'd detcord into a wall (never through the door), and grab everything and be out quick, grabbing YOU if your there and it can be arranged.
Then, if your smart, you make sure your not there.
If your not, and your dumb and we know who you are, we pick up your family/friends and let you know all is good if you turn over the info we need.
If you ARE there, we get the info within the hour from you, no problem, if somehow your a 'strong' one, we pick up your loved ones and you get to decide when to give us the intel.
Which doesn't mean squat in this context. The OP said that it was blacks that would most likely commit the crime. But, as the grandparent showed with the stats from the DOJ, except for murder, the greater chance is for a white person to commit the crime. Percentage of population by race doesn't come into play in that case.
My home office is 12' by 12' where I do a mix of programming, devops, and electronics. I sometimes have co-workers come by as well to pair-program or whiteboard.
I don't live in an area where security is as big of a concern, but I do keep the window shaded, files backed up in cloud, and drives encrypted. Beyond that, things like cameras, kensington locks, safes, and deadbolts can only slow thiefs down. But they are a good idea just for discouragement. I do love the new digital locks around now. Utilizing one which you can open and close quickly using biometrics or a phone will keep you honest in locking the place up.
On the home front, I do sometimes utilize the office for emergency relative storage (guest room). There is enough room for a queen size bed in the center.
If you encrypt all your data and backup offsite, then physical security shouldn't be too big of a concern. If someone broke in and stole it all, you can always go to Best Buy/Wal-Mart/Target and buy a replacement laptop for $400. Even if they burned your office to the ground, you can get a replacement laptop and work from a Starbucks/McDonalds/FedEx Office/cheap hotel with WIFI for a week or so until you get your home situation worked out.
It seems like you are acting like a 5 year old who dad gave $20 and has to spend it as soon as possible.
Ninjas don't carry tic tacs
He's just using a laptop, he can start with a wifi extender to start with! And its easy to run the cable later.
My office here:
Cat 5e, split into 2x 100baseT connections. I ran gigabit ethernet (Cat5e) to the office, then I wanted a second ethernet connection but didn't want a Switch just for that. So I split the wiring into two slower 100BaseT connections. Since the ISP router is only 50mbps any faster doesn't make sense, and I didn't want to run another wire, so I simply split the existing Cat5e.
A Synology RAID server (file storage, raid, automated backups to my other office, surveillance camera)
Combo printer/scanner/Fax machine, but I never use the fax part and don't have a telephone wire.
UPS
A big desk.
An office chair
A couch
An alarm, a security camera run by the Synology server (which simply stores the data remotely to my other office)
A whiteboard, and a rail with clips on it for clipping papers.
Drawers for small crap
A small tray for putting my junk (keys money etc.).
A computer
A screen with swivels to vertical.
A shredder
A filing tray
Weatherstation (outside temp and humidity, can I open the windows or will I get blasted with hot air?)
Aircon
"Hey! I think I'll ask Slashdot! All these IT pros will have the solution!"
"What a bunch of assholes..."
If you want news from today, you have to come back tomorrow.
First world problems.
Pay attention to Earthing if you are running copper from another building. Telephone and power is usually made to take a lightning strike but the LAN isn't. You don't want all your equipment fried cause the other building got hit with a lightning strike.
Short answer: NO.
Long Answer: Use a Security Company or a Locksmith for your security needs. Your typical home hardware store only has crappy locks. Use steel doors and frames, with the system designed by a security firm, with two factor high strength locks
2x4 wood is also weak sounding, rebar concrete sounds better -)
Your requirements are just like those housing clients. You see a space and you see potential, a whole lot of potential. That's the part where you'll get lost and miss your main goal.
Seriously, you should be searching for a housing forum for details. slashdot isn't a good place to get those info. You've say your "big picture" are the small rack, UPS, switch router, a desk, whiteboard walls, but those are just interior design. you can change them all the time as long as you have money.
The biggest picture you should consider first is the structure. Some commenters had noted just buy a container to save your construction decision and planning cost (highly recommendable. time is money and it cost a lot).
Note we are assuming that you want something that will give you productivity and comfort, not some cheap tents, some tree house, or a backyard sheds that'll freeze you to death at night. We are talking about a higher level shed, structure, housing that gives you a good return for a working environment.
For the structure planning, how big is your space for this 'new office'? Do you plan to use the whole space (12x20 room size or construction space size)? Do you need one floor (assume 10ft tall with plywood flooring and simple ceiling) or maybe two floor with an extra ceiling attic? We'll assume wood will be the main constructing material and the structure is sitting on something strong so you don't need extra high strength foundation.
Now, with all the details we'll go back to your budget. Do you even have enough? If not, let's try to reduce the size and the number of floors. Based on preliminary guessing, one floor wood structure, pre-designed shed or pre-designed container will be probably best for you. After you have completed all these budget planning, your next goal is comfort requirement.
Do you live in a warmer place or colder place? Do you need heater or AC more? If you need either, you need insulators. Pick a budget priced for from a selection for construction.
Let's assume you can extent the internet cable and power line from your existing home manually and you don't need water pipeline (bathroom/ toilet/kitchen, etc.). Otherwise, it's another can of worms. We'll also assume your heater and AC is simple and easy to manage with normal power line.
Now your next goal is security and entrance requirements. We'll assume you minimum requirement is one door and maybe three windows. Now you'll have to pick a secured door and windows from a selection in a store and note the size before the structure is constructed. Pick your heater and AC if you haven't and check the size of the windows for them if you want the window hanged type.
The final structure is the outer requirements. Does your place get drones (birds), flying left and right, does it have heavy snow, heavy rain or strong sun? If you have any of those, you will need to pick a roof and outer covering best for you. This is also the part you get to pick other architectural design for additional cost.
After you've done all that, your office structure is complete! NOW you can decide what you want in the office. If your final office is small, you probably don't need or want any partition. But that's not without the small rack. Pick your rack first. You’ll need to know the size of the rack and how much it'll fill up the room. After you note the size and placed it in a corner or close to the AC, it's time for interchangeable interior design.
Since your main point is work without distraction, we'll assume you'll want everything that increases your productivity. You'll want to pick a desk (or desks) suitable for your work and monitors that goes with it. You'll also want to get a comfortable chair for your work. If you didn't pick a rolley-chair flooring due to cost at this point, you'll have to compensate for it. Pick a hard rolley-chair covering or if you have more money you can go for carpet for flooring. Pick the one that is more suitable for work and comfort. If you want a whiteboard wall, look ar
1. Find a lock smith
2. Grade one commercial deadbolt.
3. Passage knob. No point in the extra lock with a good commercial deadbolt.
4. If you want get a little more expensive, get a steel door.
I used to apprentice as a locksmith. Electronics just over complicate this stuff. I recommend a Schlage. There's 20+ keyways you can choose from, and some are harder to pick your way into. Some with perpendicular tumblers that make it damn near impossible.
Avoid anything consumer grade, as a good stiff kick or a quick precise drilling through the tumblers will usually get you in under 10 minutes.
Also, if installed on a steel door, you'll never have to replace it as they are designed for constant (ab)use from staff and customers.
Maybe a security camera or two if you can justify the additional (though fairly minimal these days). Don't even look at anything less than 1080p, or analog. Power over ethernet is wonderful.
Under your desk a Dan Wesson 357-cal revolver (made now by a reputable Chezko company), and behind your chair a Remington 7-shot (mag flechetz) 12-guage pump. Both also worth-while when progressive-sluts join a Bantu fire-bomb brigade.
Given the lack of price difference between basic single and multi-mode transcievers, the high availability of single mode fiber cabling, and the benefit of being able to go a kilometer or more (as opposed to the 300m standard for MMF?) it seems like single-mode is a win win proposition.
You may have blown it if you're not going in as an independent contractor (which you'd at least need to be an S Corporation). But a lot of what you're describing that you would like to do can be written off your federal taxes. If the employer is paying for all of this, then they're the one that gets the tax break. Talk to your tax preparer (who also would be "useful" for an S corporation. But a real small business tax guy, not some dork at H&R Block).
There is no America. There is no democracy. There is only IBM and AT&T and DuPont, Dow, General Electric, and Exxon
There will be Christmas specials on many types of guns and ammos.
1) The best chair you can find for desk work
2) A nice desk, with a surface that breathes; you don't want glass or something else that will make you sweat when you make solid contact with it.
3) Nice monitors: Don't be drawn in by the resolution; what you want is something easy to read so you don't get eyestrain. Use the TV standards: Looking straight on at any monitor, the size/ distance should allow you to see the whole thing.
4) A *great* keyboard, if you will be typing.
5) a fast, quality computer. You won't regret it.
6) Depending on how distractable you are and who else is around, and at what distances, you might want to consider soundproofing. This provides both privacy and prevents others from being irritated with your own noises.
7) Consider pets. They're awesome stress relievers, and good to hang out with on breaks.
8) take breaks.
I've fallen off your lawn, and I can't get up.
1. If you're doing a shed, then the windows and door should be secured; get keypad/key lock, self-locking, that saves you a lot of "did I lock the door", and "where's the key" questions. Get some security bars for the windows without making it feel like jail. Consider shatter-proof windows, or a nice steel mesh if you want to open the windows in good weather. Google some options. Get a steel door and steel door jambs if you won't want someone to kick in the door.
2. Put in some sturdier material on the walls other than half-inch plywood. Insulate, vapor barrier, etc. Make sure you have a solid foundation and water-proof where the wood may be in contact. Keep the shed 1-2 inches off the ground.
3. Get some proper electrical wiring and a shut off switch, or a sub-panel. If you want backup batteries, a consumer UPS won't do the trick especially if you want a rack of servers.
4. If you run cable from the house to the shed, do it undergound, use pvc piping and go at least 2 feet undergound. Run at least two cables and a string/wire to fish more in the future.
5. Get a good view without being distracted and bothered by glare.
6. Splurge on good flooring.
7. Figure out what your ideal desk arrangement is and build the shed accordingly (U-desk, L-desk,
8. Get cable locks
9. Backup to a location inside the house or "cloud"
10. Build a quality roof.
11. Sound-proof, especially the roof.
12. Have a security camera pointed a the shed and inside it if you can
Wearing pants should always be optional.
Why would you not add on to your house? It's where your kitchen and bathroom are.
I guess the furthest away I've used is a room built into the garage - it was there when we bought the place.
From what I've seen, they're very secure, portable and have lots of internal space that's easily re-configurable.
It must have been something you assimilated. . . .
> whiteboard walls
Are you talking about that whiteboard paint that you can paint onto a wall? Had that at a previous job - they were a real son of a bitch to keep clean. Better off just getting an actual whiteboard.
15+ years ago, I sprung for an Omnirax desk (this one). I can't rave enough about it. The height is perfect, the surface big & durable, and plenty of rackmount space. It still looks as good as new. The company is well-known in the music industry but not so much outside.
Set up a few big monitors (with Ergotron monitor arms) and a beefy, silent rackmount PC from EndPCNoise.com, and you'll have an enviable work environment (speaking from experience).
Don't forget a firewall. If you are building the room from scratch, why not go ahead and make it a Faraday Cage.
Secure from what? Physical break-in by professionals? Smash and grab using a stolen truck as a ram? Neigbourhood kids? Crack Addicts? Government spooks? Police with a warrant?
Without an answer to the above, reasonably? Build it using standard home construction techniques, install a commercial grade metal door and jam. If you have windows don't bother with the metal door, breaking the window is going to be easier then breaking into a normal residential exterior door (but reinforce the jam anyway).
Install an alarm and obvious security camera system (secret security cameras aren't a deterrent). Make sure the security footage gets kept off-site.
I take it data security isn't an issue because that is a question independent of the physical location.
As for being down for days or weeks? Are you kidding me? Backup! Backup! Backup! If time is truly critical you should have a hot spare off-site ready to go -- your down time is the time it takes you to get there. With a proper backup the only other security you need is insurance.
Since you're building from scratch install a floor-safe in the concrete foundation large enough to store all your critical equipment and data.
If you're going to have a rack of equipment make sure it has its own, separately climate controlled (heat & humidity) sound proofed room.
As to furniture and decor? Whatever you like. Don't lock yourself into any style or layout so that you can change it after you've used it for a while and you know what you don't like about it.
Make sure you finish it properly, you will be more comfortable working in a finished space. That includes, flooring, paint, proper light fixtures, artwork, etc.
Add a countertop area with a sink and (bar-) fridge. You need somewhere to store your Mountain Dew and make coffee. Include space for a microwave so you can heat up your burritos and cook your popcorn.
If you've got the finances, include a bathroom. Hell, include one anyway.
And make sure you get all the proper permits and don't work with any trades that would agree to go ahead without permits.
P.S. Avoid IoT devices. All of them.
"Grab them by the pussy" -- President of the United States of America
My plan is to trench CAT6 from our ISP fiber DMARC..
Do you mean your demarcation point? Please quit trying to make it sound like you know what you are talking about. Oh, it's also Cat. 6, as in category six, not an acronym.
-- I have a private email server in my basement.
It's doable, but I wouldn't. Electrical grounding issues can blow up your router and anything connected to it. I've seen it happen with distances as small as 30-40ft. I would bury fiber especially since cost doesn't seem to be a huge concern here. If that's not an option then I would just use some point-to-point wireless radios from your house to your office - like Ubiquiti or something similar.
"A plan fiendishly clever in its intricacies"- Homer Simpson
I suggest, hooks in ceiling,walls for the chains and SM mount ... sex sofas and chairs
multiple adult toys and huge projector connected to pornhub
Physical security: keep things that look valuable out of sight. Avoid French Doors and sliders. Keep windows small and high.
Livability: provide toilet, or at least a sink. Provide lots of windows, maybe even a garage door facing south (refer to physical security above... conflict). Highly recommend getting a Sonos (or two) if you don't like silence. TV doesn't hurt... especially if you can use it as a remote display.
IT: Provide a dedicated router/switch for the space, at least 16 ports, and a few NAS drives.
Desk: Highly recommend the Jarvis sit/stand desks. Get a 72x30" desk with the contour curve and grommet mount monitor stands-- go big with the monitors.
Other shit: natural ventilation can really be nice if you don't have too much dust. Windows low and high-- clerestory with operable windows works really well. Personally, would like to have a workbench and an indoor/outdoor "conference" table.
Stop living in the shit hold location you are in if you have to worry about meth heads. Get out of the ghetto.
Let's be honest about what we mean to say. If you're concerned about burglary and other violent crime, it's statistically far more likely to be committed by ethnic groups with dark skin (Arabs, Mexicans, and Blacks). Those are your actual threats that you need to guard against. Now that you've identified those threats, design a system that can be used to keep them away. It should be possible to create a system that detects people when they're around, identifies their skin color with a camera, and then acts accordingly. Instead of some unnecessarily expensive setup to keep out a wide variety of threats, identify those that are most dangerous (in your case, like with most business, people with dark skin), and tailor your defenses accordingly. Now, I'm sure rogue moderators will try to force their misguided ideologies on me, but how is it racist to base your decisions on statistics that some races are far more dangerous than others?
There are many areas of the USA where there are few to zero negroes. If the OP lives in such an area, then meth-heads (he said it was rural) would be the greater danger. Learn to read.
Get a shipping container (or two). They're all steel, very durable, and they're a *bitch* to break into if you have good locks installed. They're also watertight by design.
They're usually ~$2500 to $3500 depending on the condition, not bad for what you get.
Insulate it well, add carpeting, then finish off the interior so it's a pleasant work space. Add a good steel-core door, lighting, ventilation, a heating and air conditioning unit, and you're done.
Just cruising through this digital world at 33 1/3 rpm...
https://www.joelonsoftware.com/2003/09/24/bionic-office/
1) Don't put the switch, router etc in the same volume of space your desk is going to be in. You could do something like a soundproofed closet, with baffled vent for air flow. But, as you said, there is the risk of theft still to consider. I see no reason why your networking gear needs to be in what amounts to a small garage in your backyard. Sticking the gear in a closet goes a long way to protecting you from the white noise of the fans and protecting the machinery from dust, but a closet in the house is even better.
2) Look into using what's called in the trade a "split" air conditioner. You may have seen these installed in places like Hong Kong apartment buildings and retrofitted Russian buildings. Instead of having a big window with a large metal box that is easily removable, you can have small, high windows that are far more burglar deterring than a big window. You also get a unit that is permanently installed instead of a window unit that gets pulled out every winter. Splits are more efficient and available in bigger capacities than window units. As a bonus, you'd get larger expanses for that whiteboard of yours and lower heating/cooling bills.
3) Talk to your insurance broker about this. Investigate whether you need insurance for business interruption in the event of fire, theft, hurricane etc or if a simple rider on the existing house insurance will cover it. (another area where sticking your network gear in the house will help you.)
4) Don't forget your backup strategy! Your goal should be, in the event of any disaster, you can pick up a cheap laptop and go to a coffee shop and continue to work for at least a few days. Having one backup in the home office, another in the basement with the rest of the IT stuff *and* a copy on the cloud somewhere will be a lifesaver if you ever need it. For that matter, don't forget your free backup opportunities through your employer if appropriate. Your working data is absolutely something they should be backing up already. You may be able to get them to store a image of your laptop as well. Talk to your IT guys at work. (unless *you* are the IT guy, in which case why the hell are you asking us? )
I need a wheelchair van for my son. Help me get the word out. https://www.gofundme.com/wheelchair-van-for-jj
Mine was an addition/renovation to the pool house. We ended up with a 20x30 office and pool house.
1. Run conduit for electrical AND data. You may need to repair or change things in the future. Make sure you keep a pull cable in the tube.
2. If possible, run gas, water and drain lines. I even have hot water and a heating loop running.
3. When running power, run at LEAST 2-phase, 60 amps to a panel in the office. Mine is a 100amp service off the houses 400 amp main panel.
4. Install 4 ground rods. Two for building grounds, two to give you isolated grounds.
5. In the data conduit, run at least 4 cat6 and 2 coax cables. A fiber or two isn't a bad idea. Make sure to leave room for future expansion.
6. Make sure you have AT LEAST a 1GB switch on each side of the first cat6. I have a 10GB switch on either side (I do a lot of video stuff..), plus a 1gb switch to the guest network. I also keep a backuppc server in the basement of my house.
7. Prewire. However many outlets you think you need, at least double it. Put home-run cat6 EVERYWHERE. Each place I thought I would need a cat6, I put 4, with 1 on the guest network. Have not used them all yet, but I use a LOT of them. Same goes for coax. I also have a few ports on the outside of my office, in lockable boxes. Useful when I want to work outside or when I have people from work over.
8. Insulate the hell out of the building. Plan to vent it from the top, heat it from the bottom and cool it. A dehumidifier is also a good idea.
9. Install a vapor barrier on the outside, before the outer wall covering is applied. I also installed one between the office part and the pool house part.
10. Sheath the inside of the building in 1/2" plywood. Every wall. Drywall goes over this.
11. Put a separate server room in. It doesn't need to be large, mine is basically just a 6x4 closet for the server racks. The sound-proofing was worth every penny.
12. If possible, give yourself at least a sink. I put in a half bathroom and small bar sink in the office side and I am glad I did, especially on those cold and snowy days. The pool house has two full baths, a full kitchen/living room and an outdoor kitchen was a later addition. I wish I had installed a door between the two sides. I now set up a small garage tent as a vestibule.
13. Think about storage. Give youself 50% more than you think you need.
14. Install sound, inside and out.
15. Plan for a second person. Its often nicer to work along side another person.
16. Plan for trash. Sounds simple, but sucks when you don't do it.
hth
If you are worried about physical security, build with concrete.
Check out ICF construction - insulated concrete forms. Basically you frame the walls with lego-like hollow styrofoam blocks and then pour the cement into the styrofoam. There are a bunch of different brands, but they all work basically the same way. The end result is air-tight, well-insulated, hurricane proof and nearly sound proof. Its typically only about 10% more expensive than wood-framing, the extra cost of the materials is off-set by the reduced labor required for the lego-like assembly and the relatively quick pour of concrete. With the right siding on the outside and standard drywall on the inside its indistinguishable from any a regular wood-framed building so it won't stick out like sore thumb.
Just buy a kick-butt laptop that does what you need, some awesome headphones, a MiFi device and perhaps a Sattelite Internet device, and a bunch of all-inclusive resort packages.
A half bath would be very helpful, and if you intend to have clients in and out, it's pretty much a necessity. Even though it's not a big deal for you to go into the house to use the bathroom, do you really want to make a client do that? Once you have plumbing, you have something closer to a barebones apartment than to a shack. Unless you're just telecommuting, it's not really reasonable to build without one.
Perhaps think backward. Take a studio apartment concept, and figure out what you don't need. You don't need a kitchen, but the bathroom has a sink, so you're still good to go with convenience items and stored prepared food. Coffeemaker, mini-fridge, microwave. You don't need a bed, or if you opt for one it need not be a full-time bed. A futon might suffice. (There may be times you need to lay down, but going back in the house to do so would break your flow somehow. Like supervising compiling or rendering or 3D printing or something.) Then everything you would want in any office -- your choice of furniture and equipment.
What's also important is what doesn't go in there. Network gear is probably better left in the house, but there are cases where you might want to move it. But more importantly, don't take anything irrelevant out there. I don't mean you can't have a Rubik's Cube on your desk, I mean don't put anything out there that is totally unrelated, except in dire emergency. Otherwise you will soon feel like you are working in a closet -- because you essentially are.
Look at this space as more valuable than the house it lies behind, on a per-square-foot basis -- why would you want to store junk in the high-rent district?
How is the Riemann zeta function like Trump rallies? Both have an endless number of trivial zeros.
Have a look here: small office in a container (many similar options exist):
http://www.hiloft.de/
I've gone the other way. I work from home a couple of days a week. I've decided to rent a desk at a coworking space. It's my own desk and space, nobody gets to use it when I'm not there. There's about 8 desks in the room, and 2-3 are in use at any give time. The rent is all-in and very cheap; around 1200 euros per year.
I love this setup. The reasons being: it's like a real office. There's people around me who are also working, which keeps me going. They're available for the occasional chat (but not overly so), which makes it far less lonely. All heating, maintenance, network etc. isn't my problem. They have two separate networks, at no extra cost. There's a bar and lunchroom on the ground floor so when the occasional client come in, we can get coffee or lunch there.
I like it a lot, and in my opinion, 1200/year is very cheap.
8 of 13 people found this answer helpful. Did you?
Just gonna attack these in order.
1: For the trenched cable, do yourself two favors
* A: Don't just bury the cable bare. Consider dropping a conduit of either suitable PVC or corrosion-resistant metal. Seal all the joins a
* B: While you have things open, take the opportunity to drop SEVERAL runs of cable through this trench/conduit. This way, if a problem develops with one of the pieces of cabling, you've already got spares in place. Also, run a piece of wax-coated string through the conduit too. So if you ever need to perform a COMPLETE swap (future cabling upgrades), you can simply pull a new piece through without having to yank out your existing cable infrastructure first.
2: For network cabling inside, again, recommend running through conduit for ease of replacement (rather than through bare wall). And always run a string and at least one extra run per drop point for the same reasons outlined above.
3: If you're wiring for power from scratch, talk with your electrician about installing a whole-house surge suppressor.
http://techomebuilder.com/emag... (Sorry about the absolute craptastic site design. But the info's still good.)
While you'll STILL want to use a UPS/surge suppressor between the outlet and your equipment, and HHSS can prevent a surge from turning your nice UPS unit into expensive slag and add a layer of protection for your equipment.
4: Now, I don't know where you're at, but I'd recommend insulating the walls, floor and ceiling as well.
5: Yes. Double-up on your 2x4 walls (normally called "sistering"). Also, unless the floor is ALREADY 3/4 inch plywood, you're going to want to add another piece of sheathing at half inch plywood for strength. Also, you can use this opportunity to insulate the floor. Drop down a lattice of half inch strip, and some foil-faced foam board. Then drop the top piece of half inch ply over the top.
If this is a shed, it's probably using 2x4 trusses with cheap tacks or nail-plates. DEFINITELY reinforce these. Sister at LEAST a 2x6 for the bottom stringer of each truss.
Also nail/screw pieces of 2x4 between each truss (to the trusses themselves) to create some additional lateral strength.
Also, this structure needs to be sitting on a concrete slab with proper footings that extend below the frost line (to keep the slab from heaving in the winter).
If this structure is just sitting on raw earth, forget about it all. The added weight will require a slab to keep the structure from settling in. Not to mention issues with rot.
6: When you build the area for your rack, DEFINITELY look at sound-dampening insulation and construction. Also, consider putting in a fan-driven wall/ceiling vent to help evacuate heat from the rack area.
7: If you're going to carpet, use the standard flat-ish office carpeting. For your desk area and the rack area, consider tile. Not the expensive stuff, but something like Linoleum. Pick a decent grade, because you're going to be rolling a chair over it and you don't want to wear through.
8: When they're talking about a stronger door, they're talking about something like an insulated steel security door. So this isn't something you're going to put a padlock on. Buy a quality lock and do all of the following.
1: Replace every one of the default screws used to secure the door, lock and hinges to the structure and replace them with 3 inch steel screws. The short default (usually brass) screws will tear out if someone puts a boot to the door for long enough.
2: Don't just have the company double up the wood for the door frame. That DEFINITELY helps. But wood still breaks. Have them reinforce the door frame on both the lock and hinge sides with some steel sheet metal. Or use a reinforcement kit like:
http
Chas - The one, the only.
THANK GOD!!!
He did mention "meth heads" which usually means rural whites. The heroin and prescription pill problem is leading a lot of even middle to upper class white to commit property crimes as well. Along with the mainstreaming of thug culture I'm not so sure you could build a defense based strictly on skin color.
Put pictures of midget hookers all over the walls. And shit in at least 1 corner. Then piss in another.
Putting this in a separate building instead of renovating a room in your house creates some major cost.
A separate structure will require power and HVAC and unless you fancy running through the cold when you need to pee it'll require plumbing too.
HVAC is a tricky beast. You have to control both temperature and humidity. You can hack together temperature control with cheap window units but if you want humidity control so you're not wet in the summer and sick (because of the dryness) in the winter you'll need real (expensive) HVAC.
Power is a fiddly beast too. You're not just running an outlet here, you're feeding a subpanel.
You're not erecting a shed here. You're in to at least a few tens of thousands of dollars. Just how generous is your new employer?
Moderating "-1, Disagree" is simple censorship. Have the guts to post your opinion.
As people have mentioned, inner city ares have a lot of criminals. Don't work from any such areas.
So find a nice area of the city that has fast internet and is still low crime. If new people moving into the area bring crime with them, move to another safer area well away from the areas of crime.
Lots of people have listed really great physical security ideas.
Find a big desktop, a really modern looking tower PC and fill it with old hard drives and a working PSU. Make sure it lights up, has a working fan. Have a fancy, big, display connected with a Windows 10 Professional login. Thats your huge decoy work from home computer packed with junk files but it looks so expensive.
Have a big router, modem, network, Windows file system in another computer or laptop. Thats your digital honey pot. Great to know who is looking at your work, searching for your brand, has followed your brands network down to your computer. Lots of fake bait files to find and a tricky way in should keep any intruder busy.
Any guests, workers wondering around your home get shown the fancy office room with the computers, big displays.
Do your real work on the most secure computer and network your company will allow and hope the support staff know what they are doing. Do that in a different room that does not look like an office but is usable as an office every day. An office desk that hides into something different in a room that is not an office. Enjoy the nice chair from the decoy office. Be productive and hope a few honeypot Windows computer with its massive encrypted junk files keep any digital intruders happy.
Domestic spying is now "Benign Information Gathering"
go for easy targets, or ones that look enticing.
Either make it look secure, or make it look worthless. In between is usually best, but that depends on your neighborhood.
a window with bars says valuable, a skylight with bars is less noticeable, but lacking a view.
You can get windows/door with built-in decorative bars that look less secure.
You could wire windows/doors with an alarm, should at least scare them away without making it look obvious you have stuff worth selling inside.
You can keep stuff in plain sight with visible (very visible, they are junkies) metal securing objects to the structure. Plan out your office and get the builders (or you), to install some hardened steel hooks in the concrete to attach.
If you have another way in they will take it, but do you want an office with no windows? A lockable barrel bolt with a decent lock should suffice.
Spend some decent money on said lock.
https://youtu.be/nsJZ_kKjXcE?t...
I've never built a garage, but for houses building code is always doubling up the rough opening studs.
It costs more, but 2x6 walls are stronger and can take R20 instead of R12 insulation (cheaper on energy bill as well).
Check the screws they use to secure the door slab, and think about getting some longer ones. Builders usually have a habit of being cheap and using whatever works, not what's most secure. Don't overtighten them, use a level or something true to check the frame is straight.
All that said, a constant light and a visible camera (with a pretty red light) will probably help the most (a motion sensor is nicer to the neighbors).
Abloy locks. Even the old models can't be picked. Need to physically tear them apart.
Where I live, there's only a tiny percentage of non-whites, yet there "seems to be" quite a lot of meth heads, who "seem to be" mostly white. I wonder if Op lives near me. Or Florida.
He really does live near me, ha!!
I've tried both, and both can be made to work.
Building a sun-house adds value to your home, and with glass everywhere and fitted out with a few plants you blur the boundaries between "inside" and "outside".
Problem is lighting and heating/cooling - things heat up and cool down fast, so spend on good double or triple glazing, and even then you'll need shades in summer.
Advantage is that you can tap into the services already in the house so no worries about cables (lightening!) etc. Plus if you need the can...it's right there.
I put a few extra bucks into the budget and made enough room for a meeting table which doubles as a dining area and is also perfect for Sunday brunch.
Buy dual-use wooden furniture, and make the tables into work surfaces by throwing leather hides onto them; cheap, easy to clean, decorative when reversed.
Someone else mentioned pets; yes, the cats love coming into the sun-house, but then of course insist on lying on the keyboard....ah, first world problems.
The RV ...you can pick them up for peanuts, then optimise for your use. Probably cost you less than a building a new office.
It's amazing how much space you get in even a small vehicle if you rip out the stuff you don't need; plus you can keep the can if you want...
Plug into your house power and you've even got ac and heating.
As a bonus, you can even drive it!
What kind of brick is this "2x4" you speak of?
Ground the building allows for a long life of the ups and perhaps all power consuming equipment within the structure.
If you put CAT6 into the ground, I also presume you'll also lay power cable into the same trench in which as shield the CAT6 But CAT6 is not the way to go as it has limitations, though it does depend on what bandwidth you want to run at. I know the max you can get but alot depends on the actual ISP connection. You could look at running Powerline, a much neater solution and can now run at 1Gbps (which is what I do here at home). I have not used my wired network for ages now. Security is good as it only runs on YOUR main loops. As for physical security that all depends on how much the person wants to break in, so the deterrent has to be good to put them off else they will GET IN. So good IR Cameras covering most external areas, plus one looking at the door from the inside. Also put up PIR sensor lights around the building to help illuminate the CCTV coverage. Windows would need to be double glazed safety glass. If physical looks need to be attractive then put up some heavy duty shutters over the windows to use when not in use. The door to be reinforced solid wood or GRP with multiple lock mechanism If you can, place thin wire all around the external walls in the cavity and wire this up to the alarm system, as sometime the windows and door are so strong it easier to break through the wall to get in especially if it's wooden shingles. Alarm system fitted to doors and windows, with a pressure pad by the door.
Most of what OP asks is basic construction better suited to ask your general contractor. Slabs, wall thickness, air conditioners and such are all going to be governed by code and standard formulas. It will likely have to be drawn up and approved by an engineer and a permit taken out for a habitable space. I want to address the "trenching" part though, since probably few people have Outside Plant experience. Any copper running between buildings can create a ground loop. That's why the code for the electrical service running to this building will have strict requirements on ground rods and how they get connected. If you run any copper cable between the buildings (including CAT-anything or RG-anything) IT BECOMES PART OF THIS GROUNDING AND SURGE SYSTEM. Special terminations would be required at each end connected to the grounding the properly ground it and protect from surges (e.g. lightning) and keep this special office from going up in flames. For the most part these days it is simply cheaper to use fiber optics. The light guide does not conduct electricity and thus has none of the grounding issues. Cheap switches come with SFP ports now, and multimode SFP's can be had for $30 or less. I would strongly recommend running conduit, buying a pre-terminated fiber cable to pull in it (likely 4 fibers, 2 for your active/in use pair, 2 for spares). Whatever you do, make sure the person operating the machine calls before they dig. And I hope you don't have a sprinkler system, as those are pretty much never marked.
Wear kilts. Saves so much time when you are working from home in your secure personal space.
Lessons I learned:
I'm sure there are dozens of other bits I can't recall at the moment, but as I'm rebuilding, I'll take notes.
sig sig sputnik?
I don't drink coffee (I prefer tea thank you), but a good coffee machine (+ small kitchen, if possible) should be a priority.
When you have a bad day, you will do much better if you only need to walk few steps to get a coffee break.
and a large flat-screen TV so I can display dashboards and statistics.
If you say it exactly like that perhaps your manager will believe that's the only possible use you'd have for such a TV.
Woah - this is a workspace - yes? So you know what's going to be in there, yes? So what do you want WiFi for? Run cables in conduits for the permanent equipment, and maybe a couple of spare leads coiled up into a corner of the rack for when you have visitors/ customers. If they ask for the WiFi code when they're visiting, that's the time to casually talk about your network security. "There is no remote exploit that an break through wireless security where there is no Wifi hardware. Then if they really want WiFi, dig some contraption out of a box in the corner and let them juggle it on their knee white trying to type.
Related - you mention laptops. For bang-per-buck you'll probably get better from desktops bolted into the rack. OK, ensure you can transfer your system to a laptop for travelling to show customers ... but you'll need to check that sort of portability/ transferability/ installability anyway. See "security" below too.
Whatever makes *you* comfortable. But don't make it over-luxurious. Since you'll be claiming the costs of this against tax, anticipate having an audit from the tax man. So get stuff from office suppliers, not domestic suppliers. A £500 chair from BudgetOfficeDirect.COM arouses less suspicion of fraud than a £500 chair from LuxuryLivingroom.COM ; this also applies to the laptop/ desktop question above.
Perfectly justifiable, but bear in mind comment above about buying from office supply companies not domestic. With specific regard to a TV and speakers and security, build the TV into the wall so that stealing it will involve making a lot of noise and probably breaking it. Or take the cosmetic carcass off it, so that it is completely not worth stealing because it won't get sold.
You mean a padlock? No. Get a proper door - office supplies again - which has the 5-lever lock and all-frame bolting which insurance companies take as a minimum for securing the house. You're already spending thousands on this spread, so spending a thousand on the door to secure it is sensible.
Your computing assets and data assets are important. The computers you can manage by using desktops which you BOLT into the rack (no need to spring silly money on equipment designed for rackmount, unless you've a business reason, use this sort of tray and bolt through the rubber foot-holes in the desktop chassis). Put yourself in the mind of the crack-pot looking for things to steal - chest-high 100kg racks of equipment full of exposed bare wires are not saleable, so are not worth stealing. Not even worth leaving fingerprints on. Same applies to a TV : take it's bezel off, bolt it into a fitted recess in the wall and they are more likely to smash it than steal it.
Data : you might want to put the backup server for the house's computers in your office, and for your office in the house. You've got CAT6 linking the two, so who cares. Arrange offsite storage for your backups. you know the deal.
This is assuming that your real security threat is from theft. If you're likely to face industrial espionage (or sabotage) hen you're in a whole different world of security. Teach your dog to shoot on sight? Stump up for an office in a premises with proper security on the doors and bars on the 13th floor windows, and forget the home office.
Birds are not dinosaur descendants;birds are dinosaurs, for all useful meanings of "birds", "are" and "dinosaurs"
Why would you take your expensive and important office where downtime is such a big issue, and put it alone in a field where it's easy to access? That's not smart. That's just plain dumb.
No lock will repel a sledge hammer; so what are you trying to do with it? Put something else into your shed-the-backyard. Put your office elsewhere.
A Leg Lamp
Get a 20' HICAP(9'6" tall) shipping container. This alone will solve a lot of your security concerns. Then check out the tiny house ideas and just omit the 'house' and substitute office. You can do a lot with one of these. They can be as nice as you make it. Get a window unit type AC/Heater or even a small ductless unit. One of these would be plenty for 160spft. You can even spray foam insulate the inside before you finish it for extreme temp zones.
I just have paint, carpet and doors left! (Full photos) https://www.flickr.com/photos/... They'll be a series of blog posts at https://cultivatenow.com/
If you look for Tiny Houses you'll find lots of info on what works and what doesn't. For example, check out http://microshowcase.com/ - he has a shed similar to what you're describing, and is using a highly efficient mini-split ductless system.
Woah - this is a workspace - yes? So you know what's going to be in there, yes? So what do you want WiFi for?
Even if it's on a separate VLAN or something, most people today will want WiFi for stuff like phones.
Build it on stilts, like a beach house. Then have the only way in or out be via a rope ladder. Meth-heads won't be able to navigate it.
Just some advice about a homebrew outbuilding infrastructure:
Run power, network etc in PVC conduits. Big ones (at least 2") with long radius 90 degree bends. Don't run your power wiring with your network cables, regardless if you use copper or fiber. Install AT LEAST one spare conduit.
Make sure you're complying with NFPA 70 assuming USA location, especially as it pertains to grounding. If you're putting a subpanel out there, you'll need a ground rod near the building as well as an appropriately sized ground conductor between the house and building. Ensure you're bonding neutral and ground in the right place (read: not places, place.)
While you're "trenching" bring over a water pipe or two as well. If you don't plan to have water out there, just cap the pipe.
If it's your home, and you are concerned about Meth Heads breaking in and ruining everything. You need to move.
Baring that invest in a shotgun or something because if they get into your "Home" you will need something.
Furnishing a work from home office, and securing a remote office seem very different to me.
Or is your a house a target for thieves and meth heads already? Is your house a barn that it needs carpet and double strength walls?
Working from home implies the comforts of home. The OP wants to build an office in an industrial building...
so this post really is "how do i build and secure a remote office"
I too, once was ambitious as this and had grand designs. Years later and I'm lucky if it's not another laptop in bed day.
Fuck Ajit Pai
If you have a meth head problem, put the HVAC's outdoor unity on the roof. Otherwise a meth head with a hacksaw will gladly do $5000 in damage to get $50 worth of copper.
For HVAC on that size put a minisplit or PTAC unit.
I would want any server room isolated from my workspace as they are loud.
Fiber between DMARC and house.
Really nice chair.
Motor driven roller shades to control sun.
Monitors on arms that can be adjusted as needed or workspace reconfigured.
Studio monitors driven by a good DAC over XLR cables so you can have great fidelity.
Either a short pile commercial carpet tiles that have a few spare tiles you can replace with once your chair wears it down or a laminate floor. Laminate won't absorb sound but carpet will suck up dirt/dust.
At least plumb in a toilet.
Here are some simple tips
1. Motion triggered lights - This works as a great deterrent for any home or structure
2. A polymer window film (3M makes this for storms) - This will turn a brick shattering a window into a brick cracking it slightly like a laminated piece of glass (think windshield). The film costs a little bit but you wont have too many windows
3. Steel mesh - If you are building the entire shed from a frame, consider a steel mesh in the walls. When you have a mesh between the drywall and studs it will require a hell of a lot more work than a drywall knife. Ensure you secure these with the proper retaining clips and do not forget the floor/roof. Some research may be required to avoid cellular/wifi signal interruption
4. Vehicle barriers - While it is unlikely that someone is going to drag away your shed you should be concerned about someone accidentally or intentionally driving a vehicle into your shed. This is easily accomplished by a big boulder on the easiest avenue of approach or possible some raised garden planters around the shed.
5. A simple alarm system - You dont need ADT or something fancy, a simple motion triggered alarm that starts ringing loudly will encourage most burglars to go away quickly.
6. Pinned hinges/Hinges inside - While it is up to your design and firecode you may want to consider pinning the hinges for your shed. It is fairly easy to pop the hinges off and bend your lock out of your frame.
7. Use long screws - This should be pretty straight forward, you should be using the longest possible screws when assembling the frame, locking surfaces and other key structural supports. This will help provide support against brute force.
In my very small home office for when I do telecommuting work:
I have an efficient desk, where I can easily keep my cables, monitor tidy etc. I have a "pro" gaming chair, gaming keyboard and gamig mouse, partly because I use the macro keys extensively for my work and because I find these the most comfortable for doing extended amounts of time.
I have two work machines, one mac, one PC (particularly to cover all major platforms) and use "Sharemouse" to share the same keyboard and mouse between them.
I also acquired a mobile air conditioning unit to ensure that the temperature in the room is the best temperature for me to work under. It's a larger one used for cooling significiantly larger room. But the whole point behind having that, is so I can run it for a couple of minutes and get the room quickly to the desired temperature and get my work done rather than having to wait for a significantly crappier one take 40 minutes to get the temperature down/up and then struggle to keep the temperature down/up as needed.
Here is a picture of my home office.
Change is certain; progress is not obligatory.
A big chunk of change, but not enough to hire an architect? A big chunk of change, but you'll have to pick out your own locks? Wow. Fine details like whether your backyard is 30'x50' or 3000' x 5000'? Fine details like what work you plan on doing in it. Fine details like whether you live at 10,000' in Wyoming or -5' in Louisiana? Yeah, I can see why you'd need help. Most obvious first question is do you care about the resale value of your home? If so, you're off to a poor start. Second (obvious) question is what zoning applies? A good steel door and frame will help deter the amateur burglar, just as will good steel framed windows. The fact is, you need motion detectors/alarm system if you're sufficiently concerned about crime. Good lighting will help, but if your home is 20' from your neighbors, that might be a problem. First point: location, location, location. It matters. Distance to house? Ok, so the facts are, that you've virtually completely failed to describe what you need and why you need it. So, I'm left to describe my "perfect" out-building office. A first class hvac system is critical. Must be temperature controlled. I'd like the ability to open the windows (two for cross ventilation) and be able to look out. Shrubs, bushes, and trees for visual screening, noise reduction, and shade would be nice. Either a battery power supply back up, or, since I've got natural gas heating, a generator for when the power goes out. A separate room for the utilities, including my server, so that noise is minimal. A desk. I'd like a drafting table, too (with a high-boy stool) and another table. I've always found my work spreads out to occupy the available desk/table space. Two chairs for visitors, and of course my heated leather executive chair. A couple of file cabinets. Carpet, for sure. Probably some drop ceiling for even better noise control. And a damn fine speaker system. Great lighting is critical. And of course you want fine control over the amount of light coming in thru the windows, so a first class set of blinds. I'd add a tread-mill and stationary bike, to get the blood flowing, and of course, a small fridge for snacks and drinks. If you have a significant other, then perhaps an intercom system so that s/he can easily speak to you. And don't you want to know who just rang your front door bell? For me, lots of book shelves is a must. The fact you're sweating where to get the lockset indicates to me that you're almost completely clueless. What purpose would a digital lock serve? Talk about silly. Sure they can reinforce the door framing. And wall construction is now days (in the USA) typically steel studs are used. If "doubling up" means 8 inch on center rather than 16, then wow, that will be some wall. If you don't know what they meant by "doubling up" then I'd suggest you find someone better able to communicate to you. You're going to (probably) want well insulated walls (for both energy conservation, and noise reduction. Of course, "well insulated" means something different in Fairbanks, AK than it does in Taos, NM. You'll want several electrical circuits: two for various office equipment and lighting, along with another for the server and another (possibly 240v or higher) for the HVAC. You'll want circuit breakers in the building, too, of course. Good luck on getting this done with less than $150k. Hire an architect.
I would recommend building a 20000ft^2 subterranean anti-methhead-bunker 100ft under ground. This will also allow you to survive Trump.
Install a lift up into a hidden room inside a non-descript looking shed. Obviously the lift will only work via DNA verification anyway.
You should fill the bunker with snakes, scorpions and taratulas, apart from your work area (6x6 ft), this will dissuade people who have cloned you to get into the lift.
As for the work area, I recommend a bulletproof chair that enconses your body as you work.
Dual 24 - 27" monitors. It helps with productivity.
http://cabinporn.com/
Get an adjustable sit/stand desk. Especially if you tend to get back/neck pain, it will make a big difference in how you feel at the end of the day.
"I'm too busy to research this and form an educated opinion, but I do have time to tell everyone my uninformed opinion."
Besides - you're in the back yard, so you're very likely to get a signal from your domestic WIFi.
It also is part of the point of differentiating the spend on the professional working and tax-deductible office equipment from the domestic non-tax-deductible entertainment equipment.
At my last place of work, because people lived and worked on the same boat (literally) they provided WiFi for personal use alongside the wired network for working use. Separate VLANs as you say, completely separate log-in credentials. And the wireless network throttled to a maximum of 10% of the bandwidth. As I recall, the daily fee for the satellite access was around $5000.
Birds are not dinosaur descendants;birds are dinosaurs, for all useful meanings of "birds", "are" and "dinosaurs"