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The Demons keeping up with the Monsters. Don't tell the Denon engineers that the most they could do is reduce packet resends. My gawd, a $499 ethernet cable!!

This is just as ridiculous as the absurdist audiophile magazine reviews of CD-Rs, ones that claimed CD-Rs produced noticeably different audio qualities (e.g. "richer, warmer") depending on the manufacturer and materials. Some reviewers claimed the CD-R copy sounded better than the original!

Additionally, signal directional markings are provided for optimum signal transfer.

The plug jackets have silk-screened lines-with-arrowheads, telling the bits which way to flow (both, apparently.) Knew I shoulda patented that brilliant solution for obtaining "optimum signal transfer" years ago.

Amusingly, the words "gold" and "gold-plated" do *not* appear on Denon's catalog page. I'd want at least gold wiring for half a grand. (Half a grand! Are we not rich? Absurd.)

What better place to use the Ultra Premium Denon Link Cable? Comments here please.

At the bottom of their "Contact US" page, there are "Home Audio Contacts" and "Pro Audio Contacts" links that lead to an email form.

Have fun.

Do it yourself (don't pirate them?), they even show you how to build this $499 cable...

Considering this is a recommended accessory to the $3800 DVD player they sell, I'm not surprised.

The digital cable scam is quite a wonderful thing. I nearly fell off my chair when i saw this wonderful offering from Denon.

That 1.5m 'denon-link' cable certainly looks familiar. Nice fabric coating, mind.....

Denon has integrated Ethernet, WiFi, vTuner Internet radio and Rhapsody into its high end HT receivers. HD radio is standard. The iPod dock and XM satellite radio optional.

The set-up and programming of one of these beasts should keep a geek usefully occupied for weeks.

Get a preamp or integrated amp with every connector from composite on up - for general stuff like this, Denon makes some kickass integrated amps on a good scale of power and connectivity - they have upconversion from composite and s-video to component and analog to digital hdmi, which is sweet for cutting out some monitor cables, and you can go as basic or fully frilled out along their product line, with various power steps (the AVR-887 has a good pile of connectors and is fine for video game systems). If there aren't enough connectors, get a break-out switcher box such as the Pelican System Selector Pro - everything from component on down to composite with digital audio inputs (there are a bunch of different, older versions that you can get for cheaper too).

As for actual physical layout, well, if you want it to look nice, you'll really just have to get a custom install, though you can get away with messy with a false wall, or just buy something that looks good, wire up really well in the back, and never move the systems.

I have an Xbox 360, Xbox, PS2, GCN, Dreamcast, Saturn, SNES and Genesis + Sega CD (tray loading) + 32x, and it's all set up very cleanly on a generic shelving unit in the corner, next to a smoked cabinet for all the actual audio/video components... but god help me if I ever move one of the systems.

5 RESTRICTIONS RELATED TO THE CD-R/RW STANDARDS

Standards concerned with CD recorder playback have been established based on the existing standards of CD players; however, for recording, the method differs from that used with existing cassette decks and MD recorders, etc. In view of this, please gain a good understanding of the following restrictions associated with CD-R/RW discs and enjoy the medium.

Restrictions of Audio CD-R/RW Discs

Only audio CD-R/RW discs can be recorded with this unit. "Use Audio CD" will be displayed when a disc other than one for use with audio such as a CD-R/RW disc for use with a personal computer or another type of disc is loaded. (See "Discs that Can Be Used with this Unit" on Page 5.)

CD-R discs can be recorded to only once. The recorded information cannot be erased.

The recorded information of CD-RW discs can be erased. When this disc has been finalized, erase after the finalization removal operation has been performed. (See "Cancellation of CD-RW disc finalizing" on Page 28.)

Recording mistakes made with CD-R discs cannot be erased; therefore, it is recommended that a CD-RW disc be used until you are accustomed to the recording operation.

Restrictions in Recording with this Unit

The recording operation procedure is the same for CD-R discs and CD-RW discs.

When making additional recording to a previously recorded disc, the end of the last track is detected and recording is started from there.

The record standby mode cannot be set for CD-R/RW discs with a recordable time of about 8 seconds or less remaining.

"Disc Full" will be displayed at this time.

A maximum of 99 tracks can be recorded to one CD-R/RW disc. When the recording reaches the 99th track, "Disc Full" is displayed and recordings beyond this track will not be possible.

Digital recording is not possible from CD-R/RW discs onto which have been digitally recorded, normal is it possible from MD or DAT, etc. When a digital recording is attempted from such sources, "Copy Prohibit" is displayed. To record from these digital sources, make the recording from the analog input. (See "Digital Copies" on Page 6.)

This unit cannot record CD-ROM and other non-audio signal sources. When an attempt is made to record from such sources, "Copy Prohibit" is displayed.

When a recording is made from a disc that includes data other than audio signals such as CD graphics or CD-TEXT, only the audio signal is recorded; other data is not recorded.

DVD (Dolby Digital, DTS, and other compressed audio signals) cannot be recorded.

Compatibility with Other CD Players and Discs

Finalization processing on a CD-R disc that has been recorded with this unit will permit that disc to be played on ordinary CD player. (See "Finalizing CD-R/RW Disc" on Page 27.)

Finalization processing on a CD-RW disc that has been recorded with this unit will permit that disc to be played only on a CD player designed to be used with CD-RW discs or on another CD recorder. (See "Finalization Processing of CD-RW Discs" on Page 6.)

In the section on what discs you can use to record, it shows two logos that say "Compact Disc Digital Audio Recordable or ReWriteable. They must also show an indication of "For Consumer, Consumer Use or For Music Use Only".

What about the XBox, PS2, DVD changer with component outputs... If the display doesn't have a good internal scaler for component in (480i digital), then you're stuck with SDI cards that can handle component input, and those are pretty expensive last time I looked (let alone HD-SDI cards)...

Once your component sources proliferate, the flexibility of a good external processor becomes pretty obvious... Though I am too lazy to use such a beast as a switchbox, I'd prefer to have a receiver that can do an adequate job of internally upconverting to component (or DVI) out then passing that signal to an inline processor and out to the display device (some receivers even have DVI/HDMI in and can pass those signals unmodified out so they can be complete video switches).

OTOH, one of these somewhat moots the point, though I'd have to see how well its internal line processor works (it's all objective)...

The AVR-2805 supports an RS-232 interface which is currently connected to the serial port on a FreeBSD server in my living room; my audio and video cards are also connected to the receiver. I've copied almost all of my music CDs and am in the process of copying my DVDs to this server. As it stands today, I can output different audio and video sources and can control the receiver itself by using a combination of kermit and vlc.

The next step is to add an HTTP based interface so that I can access this setup from anywhere in on the Net. My server has a wireless nic installed, and the DS has wireless support, so I've really wanted to use the DS to control everything. While I could also use my PSP, I'm more interested in the DS since it has a touch-screen interface. I think this will suit the application much better than having to use a keypad.

The AVR-2805 supports an RS-232 interface which is currently connected to the serial port on a FreeBSD server in my living room; my audio and video cards are also connected to the receiver. I've copied almost all of my music CDs and am in the process of copying my DVDs to this server. As it stands today, I can output different audio and video sources and can control the receiver itself by using a combination of kermit and vlc.

The next step is to add an HTTP based interface so that I can access this setup from anywhere in on the Net. My server has a wireless nic installed, and the DS has wireless support, so I've really wanted to use the DS to control everything. While I could also use my PSP, I'm more interested in the DS since it has a touch-screen interface. I think this will suit the application much better than having to use a keypad.

You need a high end receiver like this one from Denon.
http://usa.denon.com/ProductDetails/226.asp#
Sure it cost a boat load of money, but it will get you 5 component inputs, 3 HDMI inputs, and one DVI input. As an added bonus, it supports 2 5.1 systems and can drive two seperate component video systems as well.

For a media PC, I'd want a 44 cm or 19" wide pizza box, not a tower.
And it still looks like a PC: way too fussy and with blanked-off plastic panels, instead of a metal front plate like other A/V components

High end audiophiles will squak. Meridian's G98 costs $6k (review), the Lexicon RT20 is $5k, an Ayre costs $6k, and the Arcam FMJ 29 (highly rated starting end of high end) will set you back $3k. The top reference player, Meridan 808, will set you back $20k.

The Denon 2910 (about $600) (review) is the beginning of better quality players. The article being discussed does exactly what a lot of the higher end players do -- swap out cheap parts for better ones. For those who don't think it makes a difference, you've never had the pleasure of good quality sound. A wide, three dimensional sound stage with clear separation of instruments and fine detail puts a smile on your face. Being able to get that for much less than above (and have the second pleasure of do it yourself) is well worth it.

This is surely a nice idea, i personally hate having to use my mouse when mixing music,

It's too bad no one's thought of a way around that...

but i think the magic questions will be : Just how functional is this? Is it going to have a lot of flashy bells and whistles and doodads, or is it going to be efficent?

They're marketing it to DJ's .. but I don't see how it would be all that great. Tactile control is very important, espessially in a dark club and when you're trying to be fast. Think about trying to type on a keyboard that you couldn't feel (like, try touch-typing on your desk). How accurate is that going to be? When you're DJing, tactile feedback helps a lot - you can grab a fader by touch, without having to look, or you can feel when you've hit the end of the slider.

In answer to your question, most midrange (in hi-fi circles, "midrange" generally means between $500 and $1000) and all high-end receivers and preprocessors designed for home theater use will have an adjustable audio delay. I'm not sure how far this has penetrated into the mainstream, hi-fi-low-end market, but I'd expect the upper end of Sony's or Kenwood's range would have this feature.

For example, Denon's AVR line have this feature starting at the 3803 model (retail $1200, can be had for a bit more than half that).

Hamster

Caddy! I think that's the word you're looking for...

Some radio stations still use them today, that is, ones that haven't totally moved their music collection onto computer.

Also, a note about the power cable -- very few in fact had a remote power button even connected to the power supply -- many actually had a rocker or flip switch built in as part of the power supply.

Want to bet? Most people do not know how to interpret even the most basic specifications.

I'm a big dork and intensely research any potential electronics purchase. Instead of impulse-buying, I wait until the unit I want--usually the expensive one--goes on sale.

As an example, I bought a Harman/Kardon receiver a few years ago as the model line was being end-of-lifed. The normally $400+ receiver cost me $199 at Circuit City. The damn thing is a tank. It sounds great and weighs 25 lbs due to its massive transformer...about 10 more than the average Sony. I cracked it open out of curiosity and was surprised at how well-built it is compared to my previous crap JVC receiver.

I've actually had good luck with other Sony stuff, especially their computer monitors. I just don't like their receivers and low-end audio stuff. The upper-end and ES-level components are quite good.

Just pay a little extra and buy something good--it will last. Instead of, say, a Pioneer or JVC receiver, get a H/K, NAD, Denon or Onkyo. This isn't high-end audiophile gear by any means, but it is considerably better than Bose and most of the other mass-market crap at Best Buy.

And don't buy those all-in-one home theatres. If one component fails, you'll be stuck with a whole bunch of useless (still good) equipment.

Have you seen Denon's DN-S5000? Spins like a platter like a record, plays digital. Of course I distrust Denon anyway (anyone that's been in the DJ industry knows their entire goddamn 2x00 series leaves scratches on your CD's over time due to a poor drawer design) so I wouldn't buy one anyway.

Denon also sells a player with full resolution digital audio output, the DVD-9000. The problem is that it is a proprietary encrypted format. You have to have a compatible Denon receiver. They call it DENON Digital Link and it is based on CAT5 with RJ-45 connectors.

The problem is that, as far as I know, there is not yet a standard for digital encrypted audio.

Nor does it support most of the techologies which have enriched the internet: . . . Flash . . . Animation . . .

I don't know too many people who would agree that Flash and animation have enriched the internet. I prefer substance myself. But then again I'm an old geezer who buys a stereo based on the quality of sound, not on the animated LCD displays, flashing LEDs, and sci-fi styling.

Oops! Wrong link. The parent link is true reverse play. This is reverse play in the forward direction. While I'm at it... let me clarify: it inverts what you _just played_ for x secs, but still counting the time forwards; when you trigger it again, it starts playing where the counter currently is.

For about $1500 USD you can get a Denon DN-D9000, forget about all your worries about your computer not booting, etc, hard drive crash, you name it --- and, do some cool tricks, too! (What's in the video? It can play a song in reverse --- you say vinyl can do that too? But not in the forward direction! It inverts the sound (i.e., take a sample and flip it over itself) so you can easily remove curse words when playing to easily-offended crowds. Yep, reverse in the forward direction. Confused? Good.)

The first time I saw the 9000 I almost creamed myself. See the videos

I've been throwing around a plan to construct a case that fits in the footprint of my Hitatchi DVD player..

say.. 7 inches tall, 16 wide/10 deep or so, large enough to fit a decently powerful PC (probably Tualatin 1.2Ghz + ATI 8500 AIW + TV card + something like one of these for sound output, as a hometheater/console replacement/hifi replacement box..

Preferably I'd be able to let it just dissipate heat off passively.. (hence the Tualatin)

using this sort of front panel aesthetic

I am not a real audiophile, but I'm often disapointed from the sound coming off of a CD. I don't have a 100 000$ sound sytem at home or high quality professional CD-player / amplifiers / speakers, but DENON makes pretty good quality products for the price. Anyway, I claim you can notice imperfections in CD sound using any decent player/speakers.

In my opinion, the problem is not the media by itself. In theory, it can reproduce sounds so precisely that only experts could find imperfections. I think the problem comes from "mastering", when they take all the clean tracks from the DAT or something, and they channel it to a single track, distorting the original work. When mastering isn't a big deal, like for techno music, the sound produced can be very clean. For rock, pop and common analogly-produced music, the result is often a disaster.

What I would really like is to have multi-track CDs. How many tracks? Ideally as many as there is instruments, signers... in fatc one track for every "noise" source would be ideal (but impractical). Let's take an example for a rock band. You would need 1 track for the signer, 2 back vocals, 1 bass guitar, 2 guitars, and let say 5 tracks for the different frequency range a drummer can produce. Total: a dozen of tracks.

How would it be useful? In a standard system the "mastering" could be done on the fly. In a good system, you can have different set of speakers / amplifiers for each track. Deep subs for the bass guits, high-spl subs for the base drums, big midrange for the guits, etc... This means you get rid of the distortion from mastering, and now you can elimitate listen-time distortion created by putting a too wide range of frequencies through crossovers,amplifiers and speakers!!! You want to get rid of the stupid keyboard? Don't play the track and voila!

Do I need to say that I don't like the sound produced by mp3's? Even the CD is dead, bring us the multi-track CD!!

Reciever:

• Denon AVR-2800. Very good, clean sound. It does both DTS and DD decoding, and I can bi-wire my main speakers. ($1300)

• Panasonic A-120. It's a little older than most (1 1/2 years old...it's not even on the web site anymore), but it does the job nicely. It passes a DTS bitstream, which is all I was really looking for at the time.($500)

• Toshiba TW40X81 A good T.V. is something that you definately shouldn't scrimp on. I agonized for 8 months over this purchase, but it's the best thing I've ever bought Widescreen baby, YEAH! ($3600)

• All my speakers are by
• Sound Dynamics. RTS-11's for mains ($1000), RTS-7's for rears ($600), and an RTS-C2 for a center ($300). They kick ass, and compare favourably to similar sounding speakers in the price area too.

• A Sub is
• essential to quality movie-watching. It's not only about base you hear, it's about the rumbling you can feel. Mine is a Velodyne CT-100 with a 10" driver. ($750)

Looking back, I guess I spent quite a bit of money, but I don't regret a cent of it. I routinely enjoy watching DVD's at home more than going to the theater. I guess that's what it's all about, eh? :)

Reciever:

• Denon AVR-2800. Very good, clean sound. It does both DTS and DD decoding, and I can bi-wire my main speakers. ($1300)

• Panasonic A-120. It's a little older than most (1 1/2 years old...it's not even on the web site anymore), but it does the job nicely. It passes a DTS bitstream, which is all I was really looking for at the time.($500)

• Toshiba TW40X81 A good T.V. is something that you definately shouldn't scrimp on. I agonized for 8 months over this purchase, but it's the best thing I've ever bought Widescreen baby, YEAH! ($3600)

• All my speakers are by
• Sound Dynamics. RTS-11's for mains ($1000), RTS-7's for rears ($600), and an RTS-C2 for a center ($300). They kick ass, and compare favourably to similar sounding speakers in the price area too.

• A Sub is
• essential to quality movie-watching. It's not only about base you hear, it's about the rumbling you can feel. Mine is a Velodyne CT-100 with a 10" driver. ($750)

Looking back, I guess I spent quite a bit of money, but I don't regret a cent of it. I routinely enjoy watching DVD's at home more than going to the theater. I guess that's what it's all about, eh? :)

Denon catalogue

Speakers is a quite complicated matter. Basically you'll have to set your budget and then listen to 3 or 4 sets of speakers in your price range.

BTW, if you are still able to return your DVD player I'd do it and get one with progressive scan. Progressive scan players have a much better video quality than the interlaced ones. A good one would be the Toshiba SD-6200.

I would have to agree. The Denon AVR3300 is the best receiver for the cost anywhere. An assload of inputs coupled with clean output. Check it out here.
For speakers, I would go B&W, but given your price range, some Bose 201/301s would suit you fine. Then, save up for a Velodyne sub that will blow out windows.