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Yes, you can.

And Pricewatch finds it cheaper.*

*I wouldn't actually buy my drive from one of the low-price places, but it shows it's possible to find 250gb for >$100.

$99 for a 20 gig hard disk? You can get a 250 gig hard disk for less than that!

No, you can't.

Not only does it not write 1TB to a DVD recorder, it doesn't even write it to a hard drive:

They are expected to retail from about 130,000 yen for the cheapest model to 230,000 yen for the one-terabyte recorder, which stores data on two 500 gigabyte hard disk drives.

So what are we talking about here, two hard drives plus a standard DVD recorder all integrated into one unit for a little over US$2,000!? Jesus, I think I'd rather just buy two hard drives and a DVD recorder (dual-layer, of course) for less than US$800.

Sure, I'd need a slightly bigger case, but to save an extra $1,200, I think I can live with that.

Not only does it not write 1TB to a DVD recorder, it doesn't even write it to a hard drive:

They are expected to retail from about 130,000 yen for the cheapest model to 230,000 yen for the one-terabyte recorder, which stores data on two 500 gigabyte hard disk drives.

So what are we talking about here, two hard drives plus a standard DVD recorder all integrated into one unit for a little over US$2,000!? Jesus, I think I'd rather just buy two hard drives and a DVD recorder (dual-layer, of course) for less than US$800.

Sure, I'd need a slightly bigger case, but to save an extra $1,200, I think I can live with that.

Perhaps. My try was as good as yours. You picked one of the more expensive options for your example. You can get an 80 gig for $93 bucks. That's almost $1/gig. Thats a much better deal and I'm sure it's not the best deal out there. Also the xbox used full sized hard drives. I haven't read anything about the type of hard drive they will use in the 360. I suppose notebook drives would make sense to keep the size down so I wouldn't be too surprised. Got any links/proof that they're using notebook drives?

Damnit already. I wish people would stop the moaning about the price of the hd already. The closest thing I've seen to it is $94.50 at newegg.
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16822161304

I could really give a flying fuck how much it costs, but it's not a $20 item. The main point of people problem is that the unit without the hd creates a situation where the game devs can not create the games on the same level as they could if there was a hd in every unit. The "core" unit should have been, console, wired controller, hd, $340ish price. Either that, or tell the game devs that if their game needs the hd for advanced features, to put a "Hard Drive Required" sticker on the box instead of telling them to write games as if the hd isn't there. As it is, few devs are now going to make enhanced features in their games.

Uhhhh yeah dude. $100 for 100 megs in the 90's? Early 90's maybe. That was 15 freaking years ago dude. Would you be happy spending $2,000 on a 15 year old TV also? Because that's pretty much what you're saying.

$100 for a 20 gig harddrive is INSANE!

You can buy a 300 gig drive for nearly the same price!

http://www.newegg.com/ProductSort/Category.asp?Cat egory=15

Then get a motherboard with onboard video :) Video cards are designed to do extra tasks than just display stuff. Though this link will yeild cards that are 25 dollars are under, and "just display some stuff on the screen".

Yeah, but $100 extra for a 20 GB harddrive? I can get one of those for half the price, let alone getting a 160 GB HDD for less than $100 still!

The Xbox360 better allow "3rd party harddrives", or Microsoft is fucking themselves over. I personally liked ripping music to my Xbox to listen to in sports games, GTA:SA, etc.

Yeah, but $100 extra for a 20 GB harddrive? I can get one of those for half the price, let alone getting a 160 GB HDD for less than $100 still!

The Xbox360 better allow "3rd party harddrives", or Microsoft is fucking themselves over. I personally liked ripping music to my Xbox to listen to in sports games, GTA:SA, etc.

OSX would never survive as an OS if it went open to the x86 platform at large.

This is just guesswork, but based on my own behavior, I think you're wrong. I know this; if x86 OS-X becomes available for whatever off-the-shelf hardware for $200 (approx. retail price of XP,) I will buy it. No question.

Windows has too much market share, and o one cares enough to relearn things.

I would put it in front of my wife and extended family based on reputation alone, if only to assure they can't make a hash of it like they do Microsoft products. In my experience, getting people to "relearn" enough to use OS-X is trivial. The kind of user that can't be bothered to learn new stuff is also the kind of user that could not give a damn which company created the GUI they use to read email.

Apple makes boatloads off of their hardware

It is entirely possible to make "boatloads" selling software. The fact is you and I don't really know why Apple is moving to Intel CPUs. You speculate that they got jacked in the ass by IBM. I suppose that means they got a new vendor because they were unhappy with the old one. That's really going out on a limb!. Consider the possibility that Apple agrees with me; moving to x86 is the first step toward an "open" OS-X.

Also, hardware support is a major issue. Everything would cease 'just working', which is a very nice benefit of osx.

I think you exaggerate; making the transition isn't that difficult and nothing will just cease. You "certify" the third parties and slowly accumulate compatibility. That's how IBM lost its PC business to the rest of the world. Apple is a credible vendor for whom the better hardware vendors already work to port their products. Moving to x86 dramatically lowers the bar for all vendors.

Microsoft owns the PC market. They have only one way to go, and that's down. OS-X is just the kind of product that could make it happen.

For years I have listened to slash-snotters speak with towering authority about Apple's commitment to PowerPC's superiority. Today, with apparently equal credibility, the locals claim a hardware independent OS-X is a metaphysical impossibility. We'll see.

Have you guys seen this article at GameSpot??

So, for $99, you can buy the hard drive seperately? Uh... NO. That's a $30 profit, easy, not even buying in bulk!

The wireless networking adapter is another $99? Uh, looks like I'd be going wired for this version of the XBox.

$50 for a controller? Are they out of their skulls? Controllers, even near LAUNCH, retail at $35, best! The S controller is $25 for the XBox!

$20 for a headset that's $5 for the regular XBox? $30 to $40 for cables that should be half that, at best?

Hell, even the memory card is $40. You've got to be kidding me!

What he meant is that hard drive prices have a floor. Cost per megabyte does go down, but overhead for manufacturing a hard drive doesn't.

Using Newegg as an example, we have a WD 40GB internal HD for $51.00.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16822140118

And a WD 80GB internal HD for $51.50.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16822144102

In the $50-60 range you will see 80GB and 40GB drives intermixed.

Manufacturers also tend to stop making drives no one buys like a 10GB internal drive. The price on a hypothetical 10GB drive would probably be so close to $50 that no sane person would buy one unless they had some capatibility problem.

What he meant is that hard drive prices have a floor. Cost per megabyte does go down, but overhead for manufacturing a hard drive doesn't.

Using Newegg as an example, we have a WD 40GB internal HD for $51.00.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16822140118

And a WD 80GB internal HD for $51.50.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16822144102

In the $50-60 range you will see 80GB and 40GB drives intermixed.

Manufacturers also tend to stop making drives no one buys like a 10GB internal drive. The price on a hypothetical 10GB drive would probably be so close to $50 that no sane person would buy one unless they had some capatibility problem.

How cheap can you be? A Zalman VGA cooler costs $25 at Newegg, takes up 2 PCI slots including the PCI-E/VGA, and cools the card almost completely silently. How many people have 5 free PCI slots on their motherboard to waste on an oversized VGA cooler of questionable usefulness? The thing is not even near silent since they use a noisy 80MM fan to do the cooling.

Check out the Asus WL-HDD. It runs Linux and you can upload different firmware's for additional features (ssh or NFS access for example).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?Subm it=Go&DEPA=0&type=&description=asus+wl-hdd&Categor y=0&minPrice=&maxPrice=&Go.x=0&Go.y=0

You will need to hook it up to an car inverter (12VDC to 120VAC), since it is NOT battery powered.

The site is slashdotted, so I headed over to newegg to see what it looks like. Basically, they've taken a G5 and stretched the thing by about 50%. It now has the dimensions of a trolley. That's all that comes to mind when I look at the third newegg picture -- trolley...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16822144359&ATT=Hard+Drives&CMP=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r

I use one of these. It has 0 slope, good feel without being too clicky, and what's most important, normal key layout. Additionally, it has only the 3 media buttons I use (and none of the other ones I hate) -- volume up, volume down, and mute.

Read the reviews, this printer is simply the best you can get for under $100.

Just don't bother using it with linux. :)

I can't get to the fine article at the moment, so I don't know what their recommendations are. I've been in the business of designing embedded controllers for MFPs and lately I've been recommending the Canon Pixma iP3000 to friends and relatives.

The Pixma has separate ink tanks (the heads are separate, so carts are cheaper and can be refilled easier). The iP3000 uses four inks. The iP4000 is a six ink version, but I don't think the quality difference justifies that extra cost.

The Pixma does a great job with digital photos, even on plain paper. It does edge to edge printing on all paper sizes. All in all a great printer for around $50.

Sorry if this sounds like a sales pitch. I gain nothing from the sale of these devices, I'm just a satisfied customer.

So if *you* don't buy Dell, why did you recommend them?

You have to pick and choose your products, these days. The $279 2400N is a great price for a desktop (subtract $20 for no monitor), once you remove all the garbage.

So yes, I recommend Dell desktops but not printers. As a side note, I always keep a stash of Canon iP3000 printers in stock. These printers are cheap, quality and Canon makes the cartridges very easy to refill. When someone runs out of ink, I offer to refill their cartridges for $20 or explain to them how they can DIY for just a couple bucks.

Long story short - every vendor has a "catch" and a "loss leader". You just have to pick and choose the latter.

I'd be concerned about speed. I used a similar printer to this at school, and it would take almost a full 5 minutes before it started to print. I'm not about to place blame squarely on the printer (our network sucks), but I've never seen a printer with that type of performance.

Also, I've noticed that there are a lot of color lasers that look identical to this one. Chances are it's an OEM equivalent of some tiwanese model....

I bought one a logitech ultrax keyboard, and it's by far the best keyboard i've ever used.

It uses industry standard parts; CD-R, 2.5" notebook HD, and most likely a 4x 10/100 PCI NIC.

Interesting theory, but have you seen what a 4 port ethernet card goes for these days?

Good thing I shop at Newegg... there's no sense in trying to committ fraud with online, they have all your personal info!

I seem to remember picking up my mac mini for $500 out the door. That's only a bit more than the cost of Windows XP and it came with Tiger and iLife.

A bit more? Try more than twice as a much. Don't forget that you can get Windows XP Home + a whole computer system for $299 these days.

Well then I guess it's been a while since you went there. Here's a random digital camera link. I don't see any disclaimer.

I've found negative reviews at other sites to be very important. There was a digital camera I was interested in a while back, but it looked a little too cheap, so I looked up some reviews on it. They ranged from luke-warm to very bad. One reviewer said is actually started smoking, and most reported that it broke within a few days. If I'd bothered to look up some reviews on the IBM 75-GXP hard disk I bought a few years ago, I could have saved myself a lot of trouble.

I submitted a positive review for the Amigo (see the one by 'External Modem User, 7/24/2005 2:52:49 PM') which got accepted and a negative (but constructive) review of the Diamond, which was rejected.

Here's my original Diamond SupraMax review (which I may tweak and re-submit to NewEgg sometime):

I bought this Diamond SupraMax (Model 'SM56E', NewEgg part #N82E16825116109) modem along with the 'Amigo' modem (Model 'AME-CA95', NewEgg part #N82E16825137104) to replace a Creative Labs external RS-232 'ModemBlaster' that recently died.

The Diamond SupraMax modem is a huge disappointment, mostly due to its poor design. The Diamond modem is also more expensive than the 'Amigo AME-CA95' (Conexant-chipset-based) modem even though the Diamond modem is of lesser quality.

For starters, unlike the Amigo modem, the Diamond SupraMax has no 'On/Off' switch. You must physically disconnect the 9V plug in the back if you want to power it off! Yuk!

The Amigo modem has a nice On/Off pushbutton on the back right side.

Furthermore, the LED indicators for the Diamond modem are the worst I've ever encountered! First off, there are only two LEDs -- one for 'PWR' (Power On) and one for 'OH' (Off-Hook). Despite what the photo on the front of the Quick Start Guide shows, there is no "DATA" LED, let alone a specific 'RxD' (receive data) and 'TxD' (transmit data) as one would expect on any decent external modem. Secondly, the meager 2 LEDs which _are_ present are very difficult to read, since they're not typical LEDs with permanent, silk-screened text near the LED but are of a design where the LED light shines through to show red-colored text ('PWR' and 'OH') and the text is almost unreadable at any angle except the exact "proper" angle. The 'OH' text is almost unreadable at _any_ angle, actually.

The Amigo modem, on the other hand, has dedicated, well-labeled (viewable at all angles) LEDs for 'RxD', 'TxD', 'OH', and 'READY'.

Annother annoyance -- the Diamond modem does not retain certain settings (e.g. 'ATS95=1', which causes the modem to report DCE [modem ISP] speed instead of DTE [PC modem] speed) through a simple 'ATZ' (modem 'soft' reset) even when they've been written with 'AT&W' ('store user profile' command). All other (good) modems I've encountered (including the aforementioned Amigo modem) will retain the 'S95=1' register setting through an 'ATZ' command as long as the 'AT&W' command was used once after setting the register. This isn't a "show-stopper" problem because you can always instruct the modem to 'ATS95=1' (or 'ATW2', which is similar and may work with some modems) as part of the initialization string in whatever application you use (Windows or Linux) to dial out, but it's annoying and indicative of the bad design of the Diamond modem.

The Diamond modem works well enough in W98se with the driver supplied on the CD-ROM.

Linux use (Slackware 10.1, currently) is a different story, unfortunately. I could not get 'kppp' (the KDE 'ppp' dialer application) to fully connect to my ISP using this modem. After lots of testing, tweaking, and cursing this modem (which is the poorest-designed of all the external RS-232 modems I've ever used), I finally got it to fully connect (and start the 'ppp' session) by invoking the 'pppd' process manually and using a 'chat' script. I still d

I don't have a problem with them selectively approving reviews to an extent - otherwise you get the unwashed masses posting unhelpful stuff like "DONT BUY THIS CARD NVIDIA SUX0RZ BUY ATI INSTEAD LOL ps: U FAG".

I agree but how is that materially different from this?

"I've always had a ati video card in my computer's and I always had the x600's but then Ive upgraded to the x850 xt and runs sooo smooth and I can play half life, doom 3,battle 1942 all theses games on high resulotion and LOVE it very very much....(:"

Whats wrong with Newegg? I have always found that they have competitive prices, and have always taken care of any problems I have had. Any insight is welcome.

I bought a Seagate drive that did not work from Newegg. They happily refunded my money after I paid them 50 dollars plus shipping cost plus the time it took me to do it.

I partly bought the drive based on all of the positive reviews at Newegg. After reading at Amazon's customer feedback section about how _none_ of the Seagate 300 or 400 gig drives work due to a bug in the firmware on the device, and hearing stories about how people had RMAed 3 of them, and all 3 were bad. I figured it was not worth the effort to return the drive in order to get a series of other broken ones, so I cut my losses.

I left a 0 or 1 star, whichever was lowest for the drive and a comment that I had to prune to fit within their character limit.

Over time, the rating of these drives went from 4+ to 5 down to something like 1.5, which appears to be back up to 3 now. Check for yourself: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16822154410

Now there is an almost negative comment that said that the drive was "pocking loudly". My experience was that the drive under heavy concurrent read and write use would go "klunk!" and then freeze. That is consistent with the comments on Amazon.

I then find out from a random phone call from Seagate that they fixed their firmware, and their harddrives can now store and retrieve data!!

I really wanted the disk space, so I call Newegg and asked them if there was any way I can be assured that if I were to buy another one of these drives that it would be a working one. They said No. They sell equipment as it comes shipped to them. Whether the stuff works or not is my problem.

With the cost of the RMA, the skewed comment feedbacks, and the lack of assurance that I am buying a quality product, I see no reason to ever do business with them again. I can get computer junk anywhere. I went on the recommendation from people here on /., but my experience was not a good one, and there is so much competition, I just don't see any compelling reason to use them again.

Granted, this may have been a completely isolated incident, but it was bad enough. I've learned that Amazon's feedback system appears to be the most candid and accurate, and I will be using that, and probably shopping from them or one of their partners from now on. This is always subject to change...

Perhaps the editor added their own personal knowledge. Would you like an example of NewEgg editing a user's review submission? This review contains a complaint by a user that their previous review had been edited.

-Chris

I recently bought a new case from NewEgg. Typical aluminum miniATX case, nothing special. The case and power supply were fine, but the screws it shipped with kept binding up in threads, and one even broke off in the hard drive. I wrote a review praising the case, but suggesting that the user toss the screws and use ones out of their stash. And for this NewEgg rejected my review. It's a shame, I was positive for the case, and just wanted to warn users about the one pitfall it had.

I suppose it could have been worse, they editied the review of someone else who reviewed this same case.

-Chris

I recently bought a new case from NewEgg. Typical aluminum miniATX case, nothing special. The case and power supply were fine, but the screws it shipped with kept binding up in threads, and one even broke off in the hard drive. I wrote a review praising the case, but suggesting that the user toss the screws and use ones out of their stash. And for this NewEgg rejected my review. It's a shame, I was positive for the case, and just wanted to warn users about the one pitfall it had.

I suppose it could have been worse, they editied the review of someone else who reviewed this same case.

-Chris

Done. And it even supports jumbo frames!

Why would I want to pay $129 for a Linux distro that tries to emulate Windows when I can buy the current top-of-the-line version of Windows for $11 more?

An HDMI to DVI converter should fix that

Is there any reason this same technology can't be used on LCD TVs without the need to make everything flicker?

Try Newegg, its where I got XP. .
Home: $90
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16837102151

Pro: $150
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16837102153

Try Newegg, its where I got XP. .
Home: $90
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16837102151

Pro: $150
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16837102153

Not really true: if you order a mac mini, you can get 1GB of memory from newegg for 106: here
Then you can sell your old 512MB stick for about $30 on eBay (search for 'PC2700 512') (no, I wouldn't buy the memory off eBay to begin with) Now you have only spent about $76, which is much less than the $157 that Apple charges (with the edu discount) for the 512->1 gb UPGRADE. Not to mention the criminally overpriced memory from the Apple store: you can get 512 mb for a laptop for $59 on newegg or for $150 from the Apple Store
Note that Apple does not list a PC2700 512MB module as being supported for the iBook G4, and will happily sell you the slower memory for the same price.
The disgusting thing about this is that I'm sure a lot of people don't realize that they don't have to buy their memory from Apple.

Not really true: if you order a mac mini, you can get 1GB of memory from newegg for 106: here
Then you can sell your old 512MB stick for about $30 on eBay (search for 'PC2700 512') (no, I wouldn't buy the memory off eBay to begin with) Now you have only spent about $76, which is much less than the $157 that Apple charges (with the edu discount) for the 512->1 gb UPGRADE. Not to mention the criminally overpriced memory from the Apple store: you can get 512 mb for a laptop for $59 on newegg or for $150 from the Apple Store
Note that Apple does not list a PC2700 512MB module as being supported for the iBook G4, and will happily sell you the slower memory for the same price.
The disgusting thing about this is that I'm sure a lot of people don't realize that they don't have to buy their memory from Apple.

I'd love 4GB for $100! Damn 1gb compact flash is $1000

I'd love 4GB for $100! Damn 1gb compact flash is $1000

There are lots of good Linux laptops on the market you just have to do a bit of searching
to find them instead of taking the easy way out by buying an overpriced Dell or HP
WinXP machine.

Have you looked at:

http://www.linuxcertified.com/linux_laptops.html
http://www.emperorlinux.com/
http://www.powernotebooks.com/

If you want a sub $1k you'll have to be a bit more creative, I went with a used iBook that I
installed YelloDog on. I've recently installed Ubuntu for PPC on it with no problems.

The Acer TravelMate 2300 notebook has been reviewed on /. and NewsForge several
times as a very nice $700 machine.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82 E16834115184

I've gotten a few emails about my last comment on saving $100 on Mac Mini RAM and upgrading Athlon systems.

There's a review or two at newegg that someone was able to use a plain jane, one gig stick of DDR 400 memory in a Mac mini:
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82 E16820141198

If you grab that gig stick for $89 and it works as the reviews state, you've got the old 512 stick to donate to, say, me (since the mini no longer has the space for it, and Apple unfortunately won't let you order without), your Mini has a gig of RAM, and you saved about $85 over ordering BTO from Apple.

Please note that I got a busted version of that RAM (for my Athlon box) that didn't pass memtest86 which Newegg took back and refunded and I haven't done the research to ensure that's what the Mini takes, esp. the new version, but I am fairly confident "off-brand" RAM that matches PC3200 Athlon systems will work in Minis.

Now I am NOT a Mac representative; install at your own risk. But if you do, and you're happy you saved $80-90, send them 'useless' 512 sticks my way. http://www.slashdot.org/~mactari ;^D

You can purchase this to satisfy the hardware requirement with newegg for the OEM OS. Also they have a special combo deal if you purchase this item with the OS you get a $5 discount so this item is actually free.

XP Pro -OEM
AMC 8" 4-Pin Power Cable Splitter Model Y Power Cable - OEM

You can purchase this to satisfy the hardware requirement with newegg for the OEM OS. Also they have a special combo deal if you purchase this item with the OS you get a $5 discount so this item is actually free.

XP Pro -OEM
AMC 8" 4-Pin Power Cable Splitter Model Y Power Cable - OEM

You can purchase this to satisfy the hardware requirement with newegg for the OEM OS. Also they have a special combo deal if you purchase this item with the OS you get a $5 discount so this item is actually free.

XP Pro -OEM
AMC 8" 4-Pin Power Cable Splitter Model Y Power Cable - OEM

Office costs around $500

Close, but not quite. Just FYI:

Office 2003