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The Insatiable Power Hunger of Home Electronics

An anonymous reader writes "A Wall Street Journal columnist recently got his hand on a power meter and decided to write about his findings, the resulting article being discussed here on Slashdot. That author concluded that gadgets are getting a bad rap, and are relatively insignificant power consumers in the grand scheme of things. A rebuttal has appeared, arguing that not only are modern electronics significant power consumers already, while everything else is becoming more efficient, home electronics seem to be getting worse. This echoes the Department of Energy's assertion that 'Electricity consumption for home electronics, particularly for color TVs and computer equipment, is also forecast to grow significantly over the next two decades.' Are gadgets unfairly maligned, or getting an unearned pardon?"

340 comments

  1. Things are getting more efficient... by crc32 · · Score: 5, Informative

    In general, an LCD TV is 2x more energy efficient than a CRT. Modern dual-core processors are more energy efficient then older processors. However, as with all gains in efficiency, we're using MANY more of them. That's just what happens.

    --
    "In order to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first create the universe." -- Carl Sagan, Cosmos
    1. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Aladrin · · Score: 1

      I just thought I'd note that the parent DOES actually mean '2x more' and not '2x as'. This is rare these days, and I think it should be marked on a calendar or something.

      http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=10 82

      According to this link, a CRT uses 3x as much electricity in a year as an LCD. Which is, of course, the same as saying '2x more'.

      --
      "If you make people think they're thinking, they'll love you; But if you really make them think, they'll hate you." - DM
    2. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      Are you really trying to tell me that my old Pentium I 166MHz MMX , uses less power than my current AMD64 2800+?

      I don't even have to heat the room where my computers are.... (My wifes P-IV, my dual AMD MP and the above mentioned AMD64 2800+)

    3. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      Ooops....

      "uses less power than" should be "uses more power than".

      Sure the P-I does less work for that amount of power, but overall the newer machine uses more power.

    4. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by caffeinatedOnline · · Score: 1

      I agree... I just had to rebuild a computer due to a motherboard going bad. I run an ATI crossfire setup, and the only board that they had at the local electronic shop (Fry's) that was crossfire ran the new Intel processors. After getting a new processor, new memory (it used DDR2 vs my old boards DDR), and getting it installed, I found that my power supply was lacking (old processor was an AMD64x2, new was an Intel Core Duo). My old power supply ran 500 watts, now I am running 700 watts. While I am not sure that it is actually using all those watts, I am sure that my power bill is going to reflect it.

      --
      The sky above the port was the color of television, tuned to a dead channel...
    5. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by szembek · · Score: 1

      That was his point. Efficiency considers both the amount of work accomplished and the amount of energy used to accomplish it. So What he is saying is that your electricity used per cycle is improved. Thus meaning that the new processor is more efficient.

      --
      nothing
    6. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by bazorg · · Score: 1

      an LCD TV is 2x more energy efficient than a CRT for the same screen size?

    7. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      I understand that, but the article talks about absolute energy consumption. That AMD64 is pretty much doing nothing all day since it's a fileserver. It can be easily handled by a P166... an old box, which I *only* replaced because I was scared that parts would fail that I couldn't replace with off-the-shelf stuff.

      Still, I pay more for a box that is "more efficient".

    8. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Plus there's more people using them (younger, older, and less tech savvy). Which means that overall electricty usage of gadgets goes up (per capita and total worldwide).

    9. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by szembek · · Score: 2, Informative

      From the summary "while everything else is becoming more efficient, home electronics seem to be getting worse". But in fact in regards to efficiency they are NOT getting worse, but getting better. It is just that our increased usage is outweighing the increased efficiency, creating an overall increase in consumption.

      --
      nothing
    10. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Espectr0 · · Score: 1

      Modern dual-core processors are more energy efficient then older processors.

      This is irrelevant, as long as the new devices still consume more power than its older counterparts.

      How much power does a machine with, for example, a pentium III compare with a core 2 duo machine?

      Yes, they are getting more efficient, but this isn't enough. They need to consume less power than previous versions in order for actually mean something.

    11. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by NerveGas · · Score: 3, Interesting

      It might, it might not. I have an old dual pentium-133 server (two CPUs), and it only draws 45-50 watts from the wall. I also have a 650 Mhz Pentium 3 that only draws 60 or so watts from the wall, and it has a couple more disks.

      About a half of a year ago, I measured some Athlon64 3200+ desktops in order to size out UPS systems. These measurements included the 19" LCD panel, which alone uses about 40 watts during use. The systems used Abit motherboards, stock AMD coolers, and GeForce 6200TC video cards. Through booting, using, and shutting down the systems, I found that an average draw during usage was about 100 watts - which included 40 watts for the monitor, putting draw from the wall at around 60 watts. Peak draw never got above 143 watts during those trials.

      I didn't even bother measuring the Pentium-D systems that we had - the amount of heat alone that those things pumped out told me all that I needed to know.

      Of course, the laptop that I'm typing on right now has a 1.8 GHz dual-core chip (Core Duo), and has a "measly" 65-watt power adapter. The 65 watts (which is what it draws from the wall, I measured) is enough to run both cores at a pretty good load, the 12" display, and burn a DVD at the same time - and still have a little power left over to charge the battery. That's a bit unfair, as it's an extremely power-optimized system, but it shows what can be achieved.

      As an interesting side-note, I have a couple of Via's C3 systems, which are supposed to be low-power setups. Measuring power draw from the wall, I get 55-70 watts being pulled, depending on the machine. While the CPU is very low-power, system fans and hard drives still take power, and the cheap power supplies in them are extremely inefficient.

      steve

      --
      Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
    12. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by khelms · · Score: 1

      I agree. I have a power strip/surge suppressor that has one of the plugs designated as "master". The other devices only receive power when the master device is on. I just got a new LCD TV and when I turned it off and it was only drawing enough power to monitor the IR port for a power on signal from the remote, it wasn't drawing enough power from the power strip to keep the other devices on. I never had that "problem" with my old rear-projection TV. I had to plug my receiver into the master plug instead to keep the whole strip active.

    13. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by sfe_software · · Score: 1

      I would be willing to bet that LCD monitors are even more efficient than that in comparison. My 19" LCD is rated at 10 watts when in use, and less than 1 watt in standby. My 17" CRT (older Compaq) uses 10 watts in standby, and better than 60 watts when in use... both are of course Energy Star compliant, though I'm not sure what the requirements are to use that logo...

      --
      NGWave - Fast Sound Editor for Windows
    14. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by jacksonj04 · · Score: 1

      Yes. An LCD TV is, for an average sized TV, 2x more energy efficient than a CRT of the same size. This changes for small (32") sizes due to the different ways that power is utilised, in that LCD consumption per unit area is virtually constant whereas CRT consumption decreases slightly per unit area the more area there is of the screen.

      Oh, and LCD gives you a true visible area as well. Don't forget to take that into account.

      --
      How many people can read hex if only you and dead people can read hex?
    15. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Profane+MuthaFucka · · Score: 1

      The Celery 1100 I use takes about 20 watts MAX which is a lot lower than most chips' power miser mode. That, plus the fact that it runs everything quite nicely, is the reason I keep it as my main work machine. You really don't need much to run vi and g++.

      --
      Fascism trolls keeping me up every night. When I starts a preachin', he HITS ME WITH HIS REICH!
    16. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My brand new dual-socket, dual-core Opteron idles at about 120 W (from the wall) and suspends to 90 W. This FOUR-CPU system replaces an older single-core P4 that idles at about 140 W and did not suspend properly.

      PC manufacturers and BIOS developers are paying more attention these days.

      As for me, my computer got about 3x faster for less power. Win-Win-Win.

    17. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Tim+C · · Score: 1

      In general, an LCD TV is 2x more energy efficient than a CRT.

      I don't know about anyone else, but I've gone from a 28" CRT TV to a 40" LCD TV; while I'm sure it's more efficient, I'd be very surprised if my overall power usage has decreased because of it.

    18. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by someone300 · · Score: 1

      Why not get a tiny super-efficient PC, such as a Mini-ITX board or even try to get ahold of an ARM based system and put Linux or something... I'm almost positive that the latter if not the former will consume less power than your old P166.

    19. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by SuperQ · · Score: 1

      and you can probably do even better than that by enabling halt loop power savings:

      lspci -xxxs 00:18.3 | awk '($1 == "80:") {print $9}'
      lspci -xxxs 00:19.3 | awk '($1 == "80:") {print $9}'

      the value range is 0-61, where the higher the number is, the higher the power savings at idle

      This adjusts the freqency divisor when linux is in an idle state. It won't help you if you run folding-at-home, but if your machine has any idle time, it can reduce your power consumtion, and CPU temps.

      setpci -s 00:18.3 87.b=61
      setpci -s 00:19.3 87.b=61

      (19 only affects dual socket machines)

      I've tested this on several opteron machines of mine. My main server is a dual opteron 248, and I get a 15F temp drop when I enable it. :)

    20. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by gordyf · · Score: 1

      I've used a power meter to measure the power usage of my 1.8ghz Macbook Pro, which comes with an 85-watt power adapter.

      20 watts is about the minimum it'll run at, with the screen on low and the system idling, and no battery charging. Turning the screen off knocked a couple of watts off of that, but not much. Loading it down got the usage up just a bit past 30 watts. Charging a half depleted battery added 50 watts on top of whatever I was doing, so an idle system would use 70 watts, for example. I'm very pleased with these results, as I have an entire computer that uses as much power as a compact fluorescent light bulb. :)

    21. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by tcgroat · · Score: 1

      That's a bit unfair, as it's an extremely power-optimized system, but it shows what can be achieved.

      I wouldn't call it unfair at all. The laptop power budget shows what can be achieved today, with affordable technology that meets the majority of PC users' needs. No, it's not enough performance for high-end gaming, 3D CAD modeling, FEA, or server duty (applications that always expand to the limits of available hardware). But it supports the browser, media player, email client, and office suite that meet the needs of most customers. Desktop systems can certainly be built with laptop technology to reduce their power usage. The question is whether people would buy more energy efficient desktop systems. Today's product offerings show that the major manufacturers don't see a market for more efficient desktop systems. Everybody sells high-powered SUVs, no major maker offers hybrid sedans.

    22. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      Because, where I live, these things are unavailable retail... and buying online is impossible because most online shops do not ship to my country and *if* they do, I have to pay over 33% import taxes.

      I have indeed considered it, but I went for the AMD64 because it was cheap and I hoped that the Cool 'N Quiet feature would at least make the system a bit quieter. Alas, the OS it runs doesn't support it (OpenBSD 3.9, 4.0 should support it better according to the changelog) I know where to get Soekris systems, but those are 486 class to P-I class at best. I do use the extra power of the AMD64 now: imap was impossible on the P-I.

      Sometimes it's frustrating living in a country where the "extravagant" stuff is hard to get.

    23. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by poopdeville · · Score: 1

      I'm sure you're tired of justifying your decisions, but if I recall correctly, you can underclock those AMD processors. Linux has this facility (I think). I don't know of OBSD does too, but I would be surprised if it did.

      Then again, if it keeps you from turning the heat on, it's not really waste heat.

      --
      After all, I am strangely colored.
    24. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      Yup, did that... I ran at 800MHz for over a year. Then I did the mistake of updating the BIOS and.... Well, doesn't want to underclock anymore. Stupid me for not backing up the BIOS.

      It still was semi-loud at 800MHz though...

    25. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by nig123 · · Score: 1

      Hi,

      In Australia, I've checked the back of quite a few CRT, LCD and Plasma TV's over the past 24 mths or so.

      1) Generally speaking sales staff have no idea about the power consumption of the products they're selling...nor do they care.

      2) Average 68 cm CRT TV seems to consuming approx 195 watts
      3) Average 70 cm LCD seems to consuming approx 195 watts
      4) Average 80 cm Plasma seems to consuming approx 275 watts

      Am I missing something?..based on my above observatons, where is the energy efficiency of LCD and Plasma?

    26. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by RockDoctor · · Score: 1
      Because, where I live, these things are unavailable retail... and buying online is impossible because most online shops do not ship to my country and *if* they do, I have to pay over 33% import taxes.


      As a matter of interest, which country?
      I have just (yesterday) taken delivery of a mini-ITX from an eBay seller, and I'd be surprised if you couldn't find a seller somewhere who'd be willing to ship to your country. Obviously you'd pay for shipping, and the taxes would probably get applied too, but I'd be sure that there's a way to do it if you're keen enough.

      A couple of years ago we had real fun trying to ship a demo CD of our in-house software to a (potential) client in Siberia, and to our astonishment had DHL tell us that they'd search any package shipped to Russia and remove any CDs included in the package "to prevent software piracy". No, we didn't believe it either. Even when we told them that it was our software, and that it was up to us if we were worried about piracy, still they refused to handle the package. Crazy bastards. Eventually I stuck the CDs and manuals into my bag when I was travelling over to see my girlfriend anyway and got a couple of days pay for demo-ing the system to the client. And we've never used DHL since.
      --
      Birds are not dinosaur descendants;birds are dinosaurs, for all useful meanings of "birds", "are" and "dinosaurs"
    27. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      Grand Duchy of Luxemburg. Nice country, but the market is so small that it really has a lot of downsides. You'd say: "Buy in Germany", but alas most online shops restrict shipping electronics to Germany and Austria. Amazon.de is such a wrongdoer: no way to buy a digital camera and let it ship here, even thought their official HQ is here for tax reasons. So much for "the free circulation of capital, goods and services" *sigh*.

      It's hard to get more exotic stuff here (for a home user): years ago, I bought an SMP setup and there was no way in hell to get one here. I ordered it in Belgium (and shipping costs were horrendous) I you want anything beyond a classic OEM setup, you're out of luck (or you pay through the nose)

      As for eBay: I use it, but anything more expensive than 100€ is out...

    28. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by RockDoctor · · Score: 1
      Grand Duchy of Luxemburg. Nice country, but the market is so small that it really has a lot of downsides.

      Surprising.
      We have (sometimes) similar problems with people shipping to the Islands (Hebrides, Orkeny, Shetland), but I've only the once encountered it with shipping to Aberdeen.
      How much is the bus fare to Metz, or Saabrücken? And do they search the buses to prevent shipping contraband?
      --
      Birds are not dinosaur descendants;birds are dinosaurs, for all useful meanings of "birds", "are" and "dinosaurs"
    29. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      Well, first I want to say that I've never seen non-standard chips (for example Via C3) in any computer store. Not in Luxemburg nor in neighbouring countries. These things have to be ordered online to get them, and that is something that often doesn't work because of the unwillingness of online-shops to ship here.

      Sure, a train ticket to Metz is 15€, which is insanely cheaper than going there by car... Same thing for Saarbrücken, where a train ticket only costs 13€. (I really don't know for buses) So, sure I can get there cheap, but I don't know those cities very well. Finding a retailer that actually has Via C3 (or ARM, or whatever low-power) is not going to be easy, because they don't tend to be Fnac or Mediamarkt. That, and of course, I need to take a day off to get there or do it on saturday...

      The whole point of ordering online is to make it easier...

    30. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by RockDoctor · · Score: 1
      The whole point of ordering online is to make it easier...

      Yes. If only.
      Do you have any friends who you could use as a delivery address in one of the neighbouring countries is the point I was trying to get across. Do the online ordering to their address, and when it arrives, you've got a good excuse to go see your friend, have a few beers, nad come home with a nice new gadget too.
      (The wife has cottened on to me when I try this with my mate who works at PC World! )
      --
      Birds are not dinosaur descendants;birds are dinosaurs, for all useful meanings of "birds", "are" and "dinosaurs"
    31. Re:Things are getting more efficient... by Corporate+Troll · · Score: 1

      Well, I used to have a coworker that did this to me. He lived in Germany and simply took the stuff with him. This is how I go ta digital camera for my wife. Alas, right now, I know nobody (well enough) to ask such a service. I know this trick, but I actually have not much of a life outside my work and my wife ;-) -- What do you expect, I post on slashdot after all ;-))

      The most beneficial "friend" would be one in Germany which seems to have the biggest market for electronic devices. Of course, making friends is not easy...

  2. My results by TrisexualPuppy · · Score: 0, Troll

    I received an ammeter for Christmas, and I went around my flat finding just how much current these things draw. For reference, the voltage delivered is 125VAC. I'll put out the wattage instead of current drawn.

    Cell phone charger: 10W
    Washing machine: 790W
    Computer: 240W
    LCD monitor: 90W
    IP telephone: 20W (!!!!!)
    42" Hi-def plasma display: 190W

    Crazy. That would explain why my light bill is 80 pounds per month!!

    1. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Interesting

      So, where exactly in the world are you, that you get 125 volts in the wall but pay your bill in pounds?

    2. Re:My results by TrisexualPuppy · · Score: 1

      I have a power converter since I brought all my electronics from Canada but am only living in the UK for the next year. Sorry that I didn't clarify!

    3. Re:My results by jjthegreat · · Score: 1

      Yeah was about to say your missing a 2x multiplier if your in the UK. None of the equipment complains about running on 50hz instead?

    4. Re:My results by THE+anonymus+coward · · Score: 0, Redundant
      Cell phone charger: 10W
      Washing machine: 790W
      Computer: 240W
      LCD monitor: 90W
      IP telephone: 20W (!!!!!)
      42" Hi-def plasma display: 190W

      Finding out that in Soviet Russia, electronics powers you... priceless.
      For everything else, there's Cowboyneal.
      --
      I guess thats all I have to say.
    5. Re:My results by Phreakiture · · Score: 2, Informative

      Yeah was about to say your missing a 2x multiplier if your in the UK. None of the equipment complains about running on 50hz instead?

      A lot of equipment is completely oblivious to this shift in frequency. Most affected are appliances with AC motors and clocks. If the first thing an appliance does is convert AC to DC (as with almost all electronic appliances) then no difference will be noticed. If there is a transformer before the first rectifier, then there may be a slight loss of power.

      --
      www.wavefront-av.com
    6. Re:My results by TrisexualPuppy · · Score: 1
      None of the equipment complains about running on 50hz instead?
      Nope! I don't know whether it's a solid state-ly modified waveform to 60Hz (there is no moving part in the converter as in a phase converter), or it's just that my electronics are taking 50Hz...remember that rectification doesn't care about the waveform in the RC smoothing for the most part, but my electronics don't seem to care!
    7. Re:My results by Phreakiture · · Score: 3, Informative

      Two comments:

      First, these are Volt-Amps, not necessarily Watts. National Grid is going to charge you for Watts. The "Watts=VoltsxAmps" formula only works for 100% resistive loads or DC. On AC, you have to adjust for reactive power.

      Second, what is going into your power converter that you are using to run your Canadian appliances in the UK? In other words, how much have you increased the insanity?

      On a side note, don't you just love those British 3-prong plugs? Just be careful not to step on one in the middle of the night barefoot! :-)

      --
      www.wavefront-av.com
    8. Re:My results by tie_guy_matt · · Score: 1

      So you have a 125V PAL TV from Canada? Or do you have a PAL to NTSC converter? Just wondering.

    9. Re:My results by tom17 · · Score: 1

      For reference, the voltage delivered is 125VAC. I'll put out the wattage instead of current drawn.
       
      Cell phone charger: 10W
      Washing machine: 790W
      Computer: 240W
      LCD monitor: 90W
      IP telephone: 20W (!!!!!)
      42" Hi-def plasma display: 190W
       
      Crazy. That would explain why my light bill is 80 pounds per month!! Is it just me or does your phone charger, computer and LCD monitor (and probably the other things too) seem twice as high as they should be?

      Is your ammeter a UK one plugged in before the power converter or a Canadian one plugged in between the power converter and the appliance?

      Something seems (to me) awry in your calculations there.

    10. Re:My results by thetroll123 · · Score: 5, Funny

      On a side note, don't you just love those British 3-prong plugs? Just be careful not to step on one in the middle of the night barefoot! :-)

      Or, more generally, don't step on anything pointy barefoot. Time of day and intended purpose of the pointy thing are not important.

    11. Re:My results by sphealey · · Score: 1

      > On a side note, don't you just love those British 3-prong
      > plugs? Just be careful not to step on one in the middle of
      > the night barefoot! :-)

      IMHO there is at least a master's degree in psychology awaiting the person who performs an analysis of national character as revealed by the UK, French, US, Italian, and Australian electric plugs/sockets.

      One thing I will say about the UK plug: at least there is no question that you have a ground (earth).

      sPh

    12. Re:My results by EnglishTim · · Score: 1

      On a side note, don't you just love those British 3-prong plugs? Just be careful not to step on one in the middle of the night barefoot! :-)

      Yes, they do hurt to step on, but I do like the design, apart from their size. If they were about 2/3rds of their current size, they'd be great.

      One aspect I really like about them is that the ground terminal is longer than the other two, which is used to slide a shutter in the socket out of the way to allow the live and neutral pins to plug in to the socket. This makes it difficult to poke things into the socket, which is great if you have small children.

    13. Re:My results by Gr8Apes · · Score: 1

      There's no question that you have a ground with US plugs either. It's either 2-prong (no ground) or 3-prong (grounded). Of course, then there's the question of whether your outlet was installed properly....

      The wonderful insanity continues in the US with polarized plugs - one blade larger than the other, but not all appliances use this. The European 2-prong plug reminds me of a fisher price toy, but they sure are easier to plug in and pull out.

      --
      The cesspool just got a check and balance.
    14. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I see no mention of a TV in his list. A "monitor" and a "display", but no TV.

    15. Re:My results by 1u3hr · · Score: 1
      the voltage delivered is 125VAC. ... That would explain why my light bill is 80 pounds per month!!

      I was sure the UK uses 225/240 Volts, not 125.

    16. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      That would explain why my light bill is 80 pounds per month!!

      For those of us not living in the UK, what is that in kilograms?

    17. Re:My results by mspohr · · Score: 1
      I've often wondered about those huge UK plugs (which have spread to most of the former colonies where I encounter them). They seem like they could easily handle several hundred amps of current when any reasonable design would only need to handle 10 or 20 amps (like the "tiny" US or European plugs).

      I am wondering if this "over-engineered" plug is the result of very conservative design or a fundamental misunderstanding of electricity). Either way, it's a pain to have to carry these huge plugs when traveling.

      --
      I don't read your sig. Why are you reading mine?
    18. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Grins.

      When My younger brother was about 5 my mother was rewiring a plug to a vacuum cleaner.

      She turned around to do something else leaving the plug in parts. For those of you who have no experience with British plugs most of them can be unscrewed and reconnected by hand. the fully molded ones that are common in the US have only started to show up on British equipment in the last 15 years or so.

      So my little brother ever the curios little brat picked up the separate prongs.

      He was smart enough to work out that if he inserted the ground prong (we call it earth in the uk) the slot opened for the other two prongs.

      so he industriously inserted the other 2 prongs and was thrown across the room.

      He came out of it with nothing more the a few bruises and lots of crying. And if I am honest he was lucky to survive.

      But 20 years later it is funny to look back on.

      I was 9 at the time and came in just in time to see all the lights go out and my little brother flying across the room.

      As for the size of our plugs. They were designed at a time when the average electrical device was the size of a small washing machine. And as such the size was not an issue.

      And given the fact that we have a much higher voltage and current possibility from our standard system then the US. A better comparison is not US to US plug but US to the US plugs used for washing machines and ovens. you know those big 3 phase ones that use the save voltage as British houses have all over.

      As a Britt living in the US. I can assure you I get more annoyed by having to straiten out bent pins and stuff then you do by the rare occasions that carrying a large plug from one location to another is needed.

      But I do remember standing on the odd plug myself in the past. Think of it as a British right of passage. you really haven't lived there until you have spent a few mins hopping around on one foot screaming.

    19. Re:My results by UncleTogie · · Score: 1

      No Ammeter here, just a quick list:

      29' TV, 3 PCs (each with 17" monitor & 450W PSU), fridge, 2 ceiling fans constantly running in an apartment where we fight daily for the thermostat -- $60 electricity bill

      Living in a state with cheap electricity and no rolling blackouts yet -- priceless.

      --
      Don't tell me to get a life. I'm a gamer; I have LOTS of lives!
    20. Re:My results by tom17 · · Score: 1

      One thing I will say about the UK plug: at least there is no question that you have a ground (earth).
       
      sPh Unless you have the ones with the plastic earth prong...

    21. Re:My results by rubycodez · · Score: 1

      I always thought that the large size was for more conductor surface area since alot of former British colonies are located in the hot humid sordid shitholes of planet earth, corrosion and filth having less effect that way

    22. Re:My results by SirCyn · · Score: 1

      Human Beings *can* live without TVs...

    23. Re:My results by xs650 · · Score: 1

      He is measuring amps and calculating power as Amps x Watts. That doesn't work for a good share of electronics because of the high power factor. Actual power consumption in Watts is usually significantly lower than Amps x Volts on that type of equipment.

    24. Re:My results by TrisexualPuppy · · Score: 1

      NTSC all the way. I don't watch television, though. I use it as a presentation display for the computer and for watching North American DVD's.

    25. Re:My results by markwalling · · Score: 2, Informative

      polorized plugs are quasi-grounded. the larger blade ensures that the one conductor (don't ask which one) is connected to neutral. in your electric box, the neutral and ground bus bars are bonded, and the utility also bonds the neutral to ground every .25 mile or so.

      --
      ...For the beast had been reborn with its strength renewed, and the followers of Mammon cowered in horror.
    26. Re:My results by Alioth · · Score: 1

      I doubt it (because you'd have to turn 240vac to DC, then use an inverter to make 120VAC/60Hz to do that - and the semiconductors would be big heat producing monsters to control a few hundred watts.

      I moved from the US to the Isle of Man and have a large transformer to run the US stuff that won't run on 240 volts (most stuff will - computer monitors and computers have switch mode power supplies that will take any voltage from about 90v to 250v, the regulation on the SMPS taking care of the output voltage regardless of input voltage). None of it cares about the line frequency.

    27. Re:My results by drinkypoo · · Score: 2, Funny
      One thing I will say about the UK plug: at least there is no question that you have a ground (earth).
      Unless you have the ones with the plastic earth prong...

      If that leaves you with some question as to whether you will have an operable earth ground when the ground prong is plastic, you are not qualified to plug appliances into the wall. Please contact a trained professional.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    28. Re:My results by drinkypoo · · Score: 1
      One aspect I really like about them is that the ground terminal is longer than the other two, which is used to slide a shutter in the socket out of the way to allow the live and neutral pins to plug in to the socket. This makes it difficult to poke things into the socket, which is great if you have small children.

      ...which is great if you have stupid children.

      There, fixed that for you.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    29. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Living in Manitoba, Canada. US$0.05 (5 cents or 0.05 dollars for you Verizon people) per kWh. Beat that!

    30. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Crazy. That would explain why my light bill is 80 pounds per month!!

      That's heavy, man.

    31. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm starting to think electricity prices in Canada aren't as bad as I thought - I have 4 desktop PCs, 2 laptops, a 56" rear projection CRT tv (on 10-12 hours a day), PS2, XBox360, electric clothes dryer, refrigerator, dishwasher run once a day, outside lighting, (all indoor lighting is compact florescent), a 35" LCD tv on about 4 hours a day, 2 cell phones charging, an Asterisk PBX and several IP telephones, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting - in a 2100 sq. ft house - and my electricity bill is $60-$70/mo (slightly higher in summer with central air conditioning). I have used wattmeters on all of my PC's - even the Intel Core 2 Duo and the AMD X2-64 desktop systems rarely use more than about 65 watts while sitting idle. The 19" LCD flat panel's use about 40 watts while active, and about 3 watts while in standby. Overall, I think most of todays gadgets and electronics are quite efficient for the service they give us.

    32. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The UK plugs are inserted into switched sockets, each plug also has an appropriate Amp rated fuse for its device. Having a switched socket is nice because you don't have to buy power strips to be able to turn devices off without messing around with pulling plugs out the wall sockets. It's a pity the likes of home depot and lowes don't stock switched sockets :-(

    33. Re:My results by LubosD · · Score: 1

      What's your computer's configuration? Not even my crazy MultiGPU system with dual-core AMD processor can reach 240W... And that LCD monitor is extremely power-hunry too.

    34. Re:My results by TrisexualPuppy · · Score: 0, Troll
      What's your computer's configuration? Not even my crazy MultiGPU system with dual-core AMD processor can reach 240W... And that LCD monitor is extremely power-hunry too.
      I'm using a P4.
    35. Re:My results by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 2, Informative
      I've often wondered about those huge UK plugs

      There are actually several different kinds of British plugs. The giant square prong plug is only the most recent incarnation. There are the "lighting" plugs that have round prongs and are more akin to a US plug in size. They were actually the standard until the 70s or so. There are also shaver sockets with two prongs spaced similarly to US sockets. Some even have a voltage switch to select 115V or 230V.

      UK plugs are ridiculously overengineered, but I can't say the same about the rest of their house wiring. Having an entire floor of a house on a single 30A circuit is still shockingly common. As are "ring mains" where all the outlets are connected in a giant loop with hot and neutral returning to the fusebox in two directions (this is still a parallel circuit). The problem is if one branch of the circuit is broken, the other side may be asked to carry twice rated current.

      -b.

    36. Re:My results by Peet42 · · Score: 1

      It's not the pins that are the constraining factor, but rather the "blades" in the socket that they have to slide across. The specification says they have to carry at least 13 Amps without raising the temperature of the plug at the point of contact, which is a thin strip where the curved edge of the metal blade in the socket presses against the pin of the plug, hence the reason the pins need to be so wide.

    37. Re:My results by nasch · · Score: 1
      ...which is great if you have stupid children. There, fixed that for you.
      Right, because we all know the smart toddlers don't have any interest in sticking their fingers into anything. Sure.
    38. Re:My results by dargaud · · Score: 1
      On a side note, don't you just love those British 3-prong plugs? Just be careful not to step on one in the middle of the night barefoot! :-)
      Well, I've travelled extensively and there are so many different power plugs as to drive youcrazy, but the most useless one is definately the US one. It's the easiest to rip off the wall (sometimes the sheer weight of the cable+adapter is enough), the easiest for a kid to put the fingers in, the lousiest contact (often sparks when being plugged or unplugged)... But there's no winner, although the Euro plugs seem the most resistent.
      --
      Non-Linux Penguins ?
    39. Re:My results by karnal · · Score: 1

      The ground being longer also assists in grounding the device before it goes hot.

      If you have an electrical problem with the device, the flow should go back to the ground first since it's the first one connected.

      --
      Karnal
    40. Re:My results by DocSavage64109 · · Score: 1

      Sparking when something is unplugged isn't really a good indicator of how good the contact is when fully plugged in, but i'll definitely grant you the rest. I've noticed that a lot of new construction has the outlets installed upside-down with the ground socket on top. While annoying for transformer bricks, it does seem to keep the cords from falling out as easily.

    41. Re:My results by Moofie · · Score: 1

      How do you fit a 29 FOOT television in an apartment? Do you live in Brobdingnag?

      --
      Why yes, I AM a rocket scientist!
    42. Re:My results by UncleTogie · · Score: 1

      Can't top that... We're around 6.1 cents here. I say "around" because [surprise surprise] City Public Service can't come up with a straight pricing scheme to save their lives.

      --
      Don't tell me to get a life. I'm a gamer; I have LOTS of lives!
    43. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Easy way to save power is to switch unused sockets to off to prevent electricity leaking out.

      If it doesn't have a switch use duct tape. Sorted.

    44. Re:My results by peterpi · · Score: 1

      Isn't the UK 240 volts?

    45. Re:My results by peterpi · · Score: 1

      whoops, -1 Redundant :(

    46. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You might want to look up the difference between volt-amps and watts. It's quite possible for something to consume 1A at 120V while consuming only 60W of power, despite the presence of 120VA. That's why power cubes list VA instead of W. The power used depends on what is attached to the other side of the transformer, while the VA is more constant regardless of how much power is being used. That's why you need a real power meter.

    47. Re:My results by bar-agent · · Score: 1

      It's a pity the likes of home depot and lowes don't stock switched sockets

      Switched sockets are commonly used in kitchen and bathrooms. You might try looking in those sections.

      --
      i'd hit it so hard, if you pulled me out you'd be the king of britain [bash.org]
    48. Re:My results by iangoldby · · Score: 1

      Appliances with a plastic earth pin are double-insulated and do not need an earth.

      The earth pin is still required on the plug though because it opens the shutters that cover the live and neutral holes on the socket. When these plastic pins break off (and they do sometimes) you can no longer get the plug into the socket.

    49. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That is absolutely not what an earth connection means. Using the neutral as earth completely negates the safety purpose of the earth connection. Your post contains an extremely dangerous level of ignorance of electrical safety.

    50. Re:My results by Suidae · · Score: 1

      A lot of equipment is completely oblivious to this shift in frequency.

      In fact, a lot of equipment with switching power supplies will run just fine on 100V DC power. Not that I recommend trying it, but if you ever find that you need to play warcraft and you have 10 car batteries and no inverter, well, there ya go.

    51. Re:My results by ColaMan · · Score: 1

      If his light bill is 80 pounds, I shudder to think how much his heavy bill is.

      --

      You are in a twisty maze of processor lines, all alike.
      There is a lot of hype here.
    52. Re:My results by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My hat's off to you on how you get busted in thread after thread and come up with the MOST AMAZING replies :)

      Seriously, well done, Mr. Ripley!

    53. Re:My results by Dave+Fiddes · · Score: 1

      Your comments on ring mains are utter bollocks. If you had read the IEE Wiring Regulations you would know that the ring design is more than capable of dealing with a cable break without overloading.

    54. Re:My results by markwalling · · Score: 1

      i doubt anyone will see this because you posted AC, but i'll put this here for historical reasons:

      http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/eng99/eng991 58.htm

      Polarized plugs are used to connect the most exposed part of an appliance to the ground wire so that if you are touching a ground (like a pipe, bathtub, faucet, etc.) and the exposed part of an appliance (the case, the threaded part of a light bulb socket, etc) you will not get an electrical shock. Many appliances, such as electrical drills, are now "doubly insulated" so the probability of any exposed part of the appliance being connected, by a short or other problem in the appliance, to either wire is very small. Such devices often use unpolarized plugs where the two prongs of the plug are identical. On a polarized plug, the ground prong is larger.

      i hope you read this.

      --
      ...For the beast had been reborn with its strength renewed, and the followers of Mammon cowered in horror.
    55. Re:My results by ErroneousBee · · Score: 1

      One extra feature that may not appear in other designs is the earth prong is longer than the live prong, so that the device is earthed before it connects to the live current. Modern sockets have shutters on the live sockets that are pushed open by the longer earth prong, so that small children cannot push stuff into the live socket.

      Also, most Brits are exposed to Lego at an early age, and know how to walk over pointy objects in the dark. Those that forget are sent reminders in thier late 20's and again when they become grandparents.

      --
      **TODO** Steal someone elses sig.
    56. Re:My results by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      If you had read the IEE Wiring Regulations you would know that the ring design is more than capable of dealing with a cable break without overloading.

      Maybe now. Not as originally implemented - the original purpose of the "ring" design was to save copper and wires *were* made lighter than for a single run. And you can't deny that British circuits are fused at a much higher power than US circuits - you have 30A at 240V, with outlets being fused at 13A. In the US, entire circuits are generally fused at 15 or 20A at 125V.

      -b.

    57. Re:My results by mspohr · · Score: 1
      Most of the plugs designs that I have encountered (US and EU plugs) that have an earth connector make this longer so it contacts first... a good design.

      The shutters are also good in theory but I have run across a lot of these that are broken, stuck, etc. so this mostly becomes a pain and leads to dangerous actions like sticking some tool into the socket to pry open.

      As far as stepping on plugs... I guess it must be a cultural thing to unplug items not in use and leave the plugs on the floor as spiked traps. In the US, we usually just leave things plugged in (and the circuit is live... we don't have those little switches on the sockets that you have in the UK)... of course, 110v is less of a hazard than 220v (but still lethal, etc.).

      BTW, I just pulled out a South Africa plug adapter that I have and it is much bigger than even the UK plug... this thing could handle some serious current... enough to jump start Frankenstein!

      --
      I don't read your sig. Why are you reading mine?
  3. It's regional by FST · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I think it's more regional than anything else. The current definition of National household electricity consumption is, in effect, an average of household electricity consumption in different regions across the United States and is affected by many factors. However, hot summers increase the amount of electricity used for air conditioning and other space cooling, so households in southern States will tend to use more electricity. Similarly, cold winters increase the amount of energy used for space heating. Although U.S. households more frequently rely on natural gas than on electricity for heating, in the South the reverse is true, meaning that households in southern States will tend to have a peak of electricity use in winter as well as in summer.

    Humidity is another climate-related factor that affects electricity consumption. Households in more humid regions tend to use air-conditioners and dehumidifiers to remove humidity. Households in arid regions, such as the Mountain States, are able to use evaporative coolers instead of air-conditioning for space cooling.

    --
    46487 466780 252994 376409 96920 39622 205366 244315 622115 512361 668040 63608 259203 955314 811176 652718 166330 23922
    1. Re:It's regional by captainjaroslav · · Score: 1

      And yet I swear that I've heard the Pacific Northwest, with its mild summers and mild winters, has the largest per-capita energy consumption of any part of the US. Must be all of those espresso makers! Seriously, I've also heard (and I should be strung up for not citing any sources here, I'll be the first to admit) that the PNW also has the lowest electricity costs of any region in the US, so even with the higher per-capita number of environmentalists in the region, the real factor has more to do with the drain on one's bank account than anything else.

      --
      I'm just sayin'.
    2. Re:It's regional by Moofie · · Score: 0

      "has the largest per-capita energy consumption of any part of the US."

      Well, my wife works at a titanium foundry in Portland, and I'm pretty sure that melting titanium uses rather a lot of energy. They're located here because power is cheap. Invisible hand strikes again!

      --
      Why yes, I AM a rocket scientist!
  4. Color TVs? Is that really necessary to specify? by thc69 · · Score: 4, Funny
    particularly for color TVs and computer equipment
    Oh good, all my black and white TVs and computer equipment are okay...
    --
    Procrastination -- because good things come to those who wait.
    1. Re:Color TVs? Is that really necessary to specify? by Phreakiture · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Oh good, all my black and white TVs and computer equipment are okay...

      I know that was meant to be a snark, but...,/P>

      Monochrome CRTs use remarkably little energy.

      --
      www.wavefront-av.com
    2. Re:Color TVs? Is that really necessary to specify? by Forseti · · Score: 5, Funny
      Monochrome CRTs use remarkably little energy.

      Obviously! None of them have been plugged in for 20 years! ;-)

      --
      Delay is preferable to error. (Thomas Jefferson)
  5. Trends vs Actual consumption... by Noryungi · · Score: 4, Insightful

    So, who is right? The WSJ or the article referenced? Actually both.

    The article referenced talks about the trends for energy consumption. And, in that respect, the consumer electronics win hands down, since more and more people buy computers, flat-screen TVs and assorted electronic gadgets. On the other hand, the WSJ is right, since the overall energy consumption of these gadgets is still a very small fraction of the total.

    One thing that I'd personally like to do soon would be to compare the electricity used by all my computers (6 and counting, including a big Sun workstation, 3 laptops, a modem/router, a wireless access point, a laser printer, etc) vs the overall electricity usage in my home. I have relatively modern equipment, and I am currently switching everything to low-power equipment.

    --
    The right to offend is far more important than the right not to be offended. (Rowan Atkinson)
    1. Re:Trends vs Actual consumption... by kgskgs · · Score: 1

      You are absolutely right.
      From reference to this Wikipedia article home energy appliances consume a small percentage of total power consumed today (6% compared to 44% consumed by space conditioning)
      Home electronics has it's own Moore's law. The number of gadgets in your home doubles every year. Once you have a big TV, you have DVD player, TiVo, PlayStation. Once you have computer, soon you will have modems, routers, printers, scanners. Most of the stuff is left on running continuously. So in long run, not only they consume power when active, but they also leak a lot of energy.

    2. Re:Trends vs Actual consumption... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      You are absolutely right.
      From reference to this Wikipedia article home energy appliances consume a small percentage of total power consumed today

      Referencing a Wikipedia article? Is that really authoritative? How about you reference the source that the Wikipedia article used, which is the department of energy.

      Averaged out across the entire population, taking into account low income families, the elderly, and so on, it might accounts for only 6%. In an average, ermm, YUPpies house however the percentage will be far greater.

      The linked article even gives actual numbers, showing a single PC contributing 19%+ of the electrical load, tossing your argument out quite soundly.

      And you know, beating your chest about space conditioning being a major consumer isn't going to make people turn their furnance off, so it isn't quite as worthwhile bleating about than saying "maybe you should turn that PC off".
  6. Sacre Bleu by Rahga · · Score: 1

    Never mind... It's the summary that reads like a dupe.

    Reminds me John Stewart's coverage of how Fox News uses "Questions": "Does John Murtha's push for withdrawl encourage terrorists and insurgents to increase the number of attacks on our troops in Iraq?"

    1. Re:Sacre Bleu by sootman · · Score: 1

      No biggie. They're close enough that you can still get some karma points by copying the +5 comments from that article and posting them here. :-)

      --
      Dear Slashdot: next time you want to mess with the site, add a rich-text editor for comments.
  7. Re:Not a Dupe. by SNR+monkey · · Score: 1

    I was wondering how many "dupe!!" posts there would be. I was going to post and theorize about it, because it isn't a dupe. If you RTFS, you'd see it references the link that you posted. The story is a REACTION to that previous slashdot story. Thanks for playing.

  8. Re:Excuse my french. (Dupe.) by geeber · · Score: 1

    Nope. It's a response to the article you linked to. The article you linked to was also linked to by the submitter. Things have gotten REALLY bad when people can't even be bothered to read the first sentence of the summary.

  9. More efficient and More Prolific by tacocat · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Sure they might run instant on feature that takes some current drain 24x7 so they can do a warm start. Or a clock.

    Chase down the Off-Grid living web sites and you'll soon find that one of the biggest problems people have when they first try to do off grid is all their appliances that drain just a little power all night long, leaving insufficient power for the morning routines.

    I have three digital clocks in my kitchen, two in my entertainment center... I don't own a watch anymore because I realized that there is no place except the bathroom that I can stand in my house and not see a clock face. And I don't own any clocks!

    The need for everything to have a digital clock and instant on takes up a lot more power then you think. Turn everything off and go look at your meter. it's still chugging along rather nicely. We could do much better if we dropped the clocks and dropped the instant on. Tube televisions took minutes to warm up. Solid State televisions take a few seconds to warm up. Instant On only saves me 3 seconds at most.

    1. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by Xugumad · · Score: 2, Interesting

      What particularly bugs me is that when I bought a new LCD TV last year, I discovered it had no power switch. It has a standby button, but the only way of turning it off is at the wall/powerstrip. On a related note, decidedly unhappy with the Wii's 24-hour on mode; I'd be more accepting if it wasn't required for things like Mii transfer to work, but there's no way of telling it to do network maintenance when it's first turned on each day.

    2. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by Blakey+Rat · · Score: 1

      My TV's even worse. Not only does it not have an Off switch, but it doesn't store its settings in Flash anywhere. So if I *do* unplug it, or if the power goes out, it defaults to the wrong input, channel 2 (wrong channel) and volume SUPER LOUD.

    3. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by Linker3000 · · Score: 1

      I thought the SUPER-LOUD-when-you-first-switch-them-on TVs (especially Philips models) were only found in hotels.

      I've always suspected that the audio defaults were finalised by a senior engineer who was a little bit deaf from years of working on TV and hifi equipment.

      --
      AT&ROFLMAO
    4. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by jandrese · · Score: 1

      The question here of course is "how much power does it draw in Standby mode?" I know there is a lot of gnashing of teeth about the power draw from standby mode, but most of the appliances I've tested draw only 300mA or so in standby, which is like leaving your front door open for an extra 3 seconds when entering the house.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
    5. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by NerveGas · · Score: 1

      I don't know about your TV, but I've measured some LCD monitors in standby, and came out with draws of 3 or 4 watts. While that's not zero, and claims like "We could get rid of fifteen power plants..." are thrown around, it's hard for me to worry about that when my gaming computer draws a hundred times that much, and my air conditioner draws five hundred times that much. When an hour of using the AC is worth almost a month of standby time on my LCD, I have bigger fish to fry than unplugging the monitor.

      steve

      --
      Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
    6. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      300mA is not a measurement of power. It's a measurement of amperage. P=VI, meaning watts (power) equals volts (electromotive force) times amperes (current). Are you saying 300mA at 120V? That's 36 watts (120 * 0.3)! 36 watts is a shitload of power! Double that and you can run a modern laptop!

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    7. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by Kelbear · · Score: 1

      But think about all the channel-changing you can get done in 3 seconds!

    8. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by LunaticTippy · · Score: 4, Insightful

      You're right that one 3 watt drain is insignificant. However, in my house I have probably 20 of these drains, between 3 and 20 watts. I also have at least 20 wall-wart transformers that suck juice whether they're hooked up to anything or not. I'd say that my (admittedly not normal) total standby power is 300 watts, 24 hours a day. That's a lot. It'll affect my bill substantially, and for no good reason. If the average house uses 100 watts, once you multiply that by hundreds of millions of houses you're talking about real power.

      It's like a leaky faucet. Sure it's only 1/10 gallon a minute, but it adds up and doesn't benefit anyone. Why not minimize it? I know manufacturers could lower standby power use if consumers demand it.

      --
      Man, you really need that seminar!
    9. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by Fulcrum+of+Evil · · Score: 1

      We could do much better if we dropped the clocks and dropped the instant on. Tube televisions took minutes to warm up. Solid State televisions take a few seconds to warm up. Instant On only saves me 3 seconds at most.

      How were you planning on turning the thing on? Something has to listen to the remote.

      --
      "We returned the General to El Salvador, or maybe Guatemala, it's difficult to tell from 10,000 feet"
    10. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by Chandon+Seldon · · Score: 1

      At a constant voltage, you can measure power in amps. This is the same mechanism used to measure distance in time units (i.e. I live 10 minutes from the grocery store).

      --
      -- The act of censorship is always worse than whatever is being censored. Always.
    11. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      That's nice. Unfortunately the GP comment says nothing about voltage. If he had said 300mA @ x volts, then you would have a point. You don't, because he didn't. I am forced to assume he means ~120V, although that may or may not be accurate. (It probably is, since his address is listed as being @ vt.edu.) Also, this is news for nerds, right? Nerds value accuracy. His comment said "I know there is a lot of gnashing of teeth about the power draw from standby mode, but most of the appliances I've tested draw only 300mA or so" but milliamps are quite simply not a measurement of power. I don't know why you tried to defend that comment, but since it was quite simply incorrect, I suggest you stop lest you associate yourself with inaccuracy.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    12. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by tacocat · · Score: 1

      I recognize that 300mA doesn't seem like a lot of power, until you multiply it out...

      • Playstation.
      • VCR
      • DVD player
      • Stereo (assume only one)
      • Television (assume two)
      • Microwave
      • Convection Oven (gas/electric)
      • Radio (assume two)
      • Computer/Notebook (for me this is 3)
      • Cordless phone base
      • Answering machine
      • And now you have 14 items at 300mA. If you use the 35 watts as an estimate you have 490W or roughly 12KWHr per day. It adds up when you start multiplying that by houses and offices. You quickly get to a steady drain in the MegaWatt range for a give small city.

    13. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by tacocat · · Score: 1

      Interestingly enough I happen to walk past my television when I enter the room. There is a button on the front of it that is used to turn it on.

      When I was a child my big brother had a remote on the old television. He would punch me in the arm until I got up and changed the channel on the television across the room. It was a nice round dial think that you would turn right and left to get to the right channel.

      Considering we are a most overweight nation on the entire planet it probably wouldn't hurt us to actually have to walk over to the television to turn it on. I'm not promoting the little-brother-remote concept publicly, but I do weigh less than my brother.

    14. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by Suidae · · Score: 1

      Turn everything off and go look at your meter. it's still chugging along rather nicely.

      Speaking of, how do you read a digital meter? No, I don't mean big 7 segment numbers indicating the total kWh used, that I can read. I mean since it lacks a spinning disk indicating the current rate of usage, I do I know how much power I'm using without standing there waiting for the numbers to change?

    15. Re:More efficient and More Prolific by drinkypoo · · Score: 1
      Are you saying 300mA at 120V? That's 36 watts (120 * 0.3)! 36 watts is a shitload of power!
      I recognize that 300mA doesn't seem like a lot of power, until you multiply it out

      you are on drugs. Not the good kind. Seek help.

      My objection was not that it's not a lot of power. Obviously. It's that milliamps are not a measurement of power. They are a measurement of current. The two are related, but not remotely the same.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
  10. Its good to see the few key things called out... by tgd · · Score: 4, Interesting

    He's absolutely right. Ignoring AC costs, IMO its house size that is causing the increase in usage, and its changes in how houses are lit. 20 years ago houses were lit typically with a single fixture in a room, and lamps. (Or, if you're in the northeast US, typically just lamps, although I couldn't tell you why that is...)

    These days lighting design is all the rage, and its common to have 4 or more fixtures in a room, often R30 can lights at 65w each projecting downward so you need 4 or more to light a room. The room I'm in right now visiting my parents has 4 can lights, a light with 4 60 watt bulbs in it, and two recessed spot lights of unknown power. Ignoring those, its still 500 watts to light this room.

    My house is 60+ years old, but was renovated six years ago -- most of it is can lit as well. It has 24 65 watt R30 can lights in it, among all the other lights.

    I saw a nearly $30 a month drop in my electric bill switching the entire house to CFL. Dimmable R30 bulbs are pricey, $12+ each, but they will have payed themselves off in a year. I typically am facist about keeping lights off, too... I'm sure the savings would be double that if I had kids leaving them on all the time.

    On a geek note, I also got a $30 savings a month by making changes in the data center in the basement. An old HP rack server was replaced with a much less power hungry desktop box which was faster... that saved 75% of the electricity it used to use. Three other desktop boxes which were slower were replaced with two free laptops with broken screens I got from friends who tend to break their laptops. The upside as well is that one small UPS can power everything for almost an hour.

  11. Shameless plug for my instructable... by photozz · · Score: 1

    Peripheral Power control with screen saver
    http://www.instructables.com/id/EE62QUOM31EUOJJVA4 /

    saves a few pennies here and there.....

    --


    Dirty Pirate Hooker
  12. Remotes + Sleep mode by Gopal.V · · Score: 3, Interesting

    When we first got a TV (1988), the TV had a power switch, five channels and definitely no remote. So, whenever we didn't need the TV, we just switched off the power and turned it on when we needed it.

    When 1999 dawned, the TV was a flat screen 25" with a remote. And lo, we would turn off the power for the TV only when we left the house (locked up) or at night. And that was just because my house was on the very top of a hill and power lines were often hit by lightning (yeah, I had my modem explode once).

    And finally, now in 2006 (in a different city), I have six things plugged in - from DVD player to the TV itself. And it is such a big mess that nobody ever unplugs anything at all - just use the remote to turn it on & off. That sleep mode does take a fair bit of power (well, tens of watts) which is just going to an absolute waste (well, heating the room).

    It is these un-noticed devices which suck a constant, but econonomically neglible drain - which could be avoided. The things you can fix aren't always the biggest consumers (water heaters, refrigerator) but small things like these - in a global level.

    It is not just such permanently on stuff that you have - the average geek still has more connectors than you'd think. I realized this when I was in the high himalayas - and we were charging stuff before we left human habitation. (Oh, took the laptop to 18,000 feet).

    1. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by cnelzie · · Score: 1

      Instead of unplugging all of those things, you could simply get a good surge protector and flip the switch to off or if you really wanted to be sure, you could have easy access to your fuse box and simply flip those switches to off when you are using items in a particular room.

          That is, if you were interested in saving electricity.

      --
      If you ignore the other uses of a tool, does that make the tool less useful, or you less useful?
    2. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      you could have easy access to your fuse box and simply flip those switches to off when you are using items in a particular room.

      Circuit breakers, believe it or not, are designed for a limited number of on/off cycles. Using them as switches isn't a good idea - they may later jam and not turn off when you need them. Far better to install wall switches for each outlet they you need controlled if you want to go that route (but keep in mind that you'll be losing settings on some devices without flash RAM). BTW - 30W for sleep mode? WTF - if the power supply is really that inefficient, they'd probably be better off charging an NiMH battery and using that to bootstrap the thing from standby/off.

      -b.

    3. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by djh101010 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      And finally, now in 2006 (in a different city), I have six things plugged in - from DVD player to the TV itself. And it is such a big mess that nobody ever unplugs anything at all - just use the remote to turn it on & off. That sleep mode does take a fair bit of power (well, tens of watts) which is just going to an absolute waste (well, heating the room).

      That last bit is critical. Guys, we're not wasting ANY energy, at least during the heating season. The heat put out by the wall warts and other always-on stuff, helps heat your house. If you have electric heat, it's exactly a wash. If you heat with natural gas or propane, well, this is that much less fuel you'll burn. The cost per BTU even comes out in favor of electric, sometimes. For me, the on-peak rate is 5x as high as the off-peak rate, so during nights and weekends, electric heat is cheaper than propane.

      For off-peak heating, I use a 4500W water heater, piped into plastic tubing cast into the concrete slabs in my basement and kitchen. I can get a 1 degree (f) per hour temperature rise in the slabs, which doesn't sound like much but in practice is more than enough. The electric heat, in this case, saves me quite a bit in propane costs, somewhere around 20% in heating costs savings last time I calculated.

      Point is, that heat isn't wasted, unless you're running an air conditioner at the same time.

    4. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by Kelbear · · Score: 1

      I heat my room with my PC and Xbox360. It's a very small room. The house is only marginally heated to a cool 63 degrees. Playing games on the PC or Xbox360 drives the heat in my room to the point where I begin to sweat. I have to periodically get up to open the door to vent the heat back out into the rest of the house.

    5. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by sfe_software · · Score: 1

      Almost everything these days consume power while they are "off" (more accurately, in "standby" mode). Remote controlled devices have little choice - some circuit needs to be powered up at all times, monitoring the IR sensor and waiting for an instruction from the remote. Other devices have timers and/or clocks (microwave, coffee makers) that need constant power.

      The worst part is that many of these devices have an inefficient power supply to provide power to those "always on" circuits. Notice how a plug-in transformer (or "wall wart") is always warm, even if not connected to the device it powers. Switch-mode power supplies are a bit more efficient, but still waste some amount of power in the form of heat even when not in use.

      It's the "instant on" factor, as well as remote-control and timer-based devices that require constant power. Even newer washing machines/dryers (with low-voltage push-button operation) consume power at all times. There was a report on our local news last week covering "viral electronics" (parasitic would have been a better term), and using a watt meter they showed that many small, inefficient devices consumed a lot more power than you would expect. Leave your shaver or rechargeable toothbrush plugged in 24/7, and you're wasting a few watt/hours... Then take into account all of your TVs, clock-radios, and other appliances around the house, and it can add up.

      --
      NGWave - Fast Sound Editor for Windows
    6. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by sfe_software · · Score: 1

      [Circuit breakers] Using them as switches isn't a good idea - they may later jam and not turn off when you need them.

      Just a minor point - circuit breakers are generally designed to fail off. When they wear out, they almost always turn off earlier than expected. Being spring-loaded, breakers are more likely to default to the "off" position than "on" - an intentional design feature. You wouldn't want a breaker to be "stuck on" as this could pose a major hazard. Considering the fact that a breaker's sole purpose is protection from overload, it makes sense that they are designed to fail "off" rather than "on".

      I'm sure you know this, but I just wanted to clarify that point... and you are right, they are not intended to be used as a switch or for any sort of frequent use. They generally wear out after only a few hundred cycles.

      --
      NGWave - Fast Sound Editor for Windows
    7. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      Just a minor point - circuit breakers are generally designed to fail off. When they wear out, they almost always turn off earlier than expected.

      "Generally designed to" != real world behavior, sometimes. (Especially if you have a Federal Pacific aka NoBlow panel.) Not all breaker panels are new and some of the designs from the 50s to the 60s were fricken' abominable.

      -b.

    8. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by rtechie · · Score: 1

      Point is, that heat isn't wasted, unless you're running an air conditioner at the same time.

      Which is exactly the situation I'm in because I live in a hot climate. If I don't have AC running I get equipment failure.

    9. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by GWBasic · · Score: 1
      Point is, that heat isn't wasted, unless you're running an air conditioner at the same time.

      Last winter I heated my living room with my Comcast DVR. A few months ago, a software upgrade made it ran cooler, so now I have to run my heat!

      Getting back on-topic; I recently built a relay system so that my receiver can switch high-power items, like my two giant subwoofers and CRT TV. It resulted in a few dollar's savings on my bill.

    10. Re:Remotes + Sleep mode by Netssansfrontieres · · Score: 1

      True ... with the obvious caveat that the power drain continues in any situation that might cause you to otherwise allow the house to do with less heat. Thus, not only when you want the house cooler, but also when you're not at home, or are asleep, etc.
      I imagine someone has calculated what percentage this might be ... it is surely greater than half of the annual total, even in colder regions.

  13. the same verdict is being reached all over by brokeninside · · Score: 4, Informative
    The Christian Science Monitor has an excellent article on energy conservation in the home: Surprise: Not-so-glamorous conservation works best. The two biggest issues to tackle are lighting and heating. Consider this:
    although residences consume only about two-fifths of this as electricity, because electrical generation is inherently inefficient, it accounts for 71 percent of household emissions. A home's electrical use may be responsible for more CO2 emissions than the two cars in the driveway.
    1. Re:the same verdict is being reached all over by maximthemagnificent · · Score: 1

      That article makes a very good point (indirectly): smaller gains made by 80% of people beat that crap out of huge gaisn made by
      2% of people.

    2. Re:the same verdict is being reached all over by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      FYI - Two cars sitting in the driveway don't produce any CO2.

  14. supply & demand by nih · · Score: 1

    This is just supply & demand, as the demand for more power efficient
    electronics grows then companies will be driven to supply them.

    --
    I'm a rabbit startled by the headlights of life :(
    1. Re:supply & demand by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Right... When the kids start demanding broccoli, we'll serve it. Until then, more candy.

    2. Re:supply & demand by GigsVT · · Score: 1

      If you can't tell the difference between a consenting adult and a kid, I think they better lock you up.

      --
      I've had enough abrasive sigs. Kittens are cute and fuzzy.
    3. Re:supply & demand by Dunbal · · Score: 1

      tell the difference between a consenting adult and a kid

            To be honest, for most adults I have met, the main difference is age.

      --
      Seven puppies were harmed during the making of this post.
    4. Re:supply & demand by Bryansix · · Score: 1

      Seriously. Most people don't grow up. They just assume more authority with age without assuming any of the responsibility that should come with it.

    5. Re:supply & demand by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Frankly, when I was 15, I was more mature in most ways than the 20 year old I was fucking on a nightly basis. Age is a number and means very little. Most people you see on a day to day basis are fucking idiots with all the personal responsibility of a suicide bomber and they are unequipped to make any actual decisions in their lives, let alone do anything that influences anyone else. Which come to think of it, is everything.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    6. Re:supply & demand by sfe_software · · Score: 1

      This is just supply & demand, as the demand for more power efficient electronics grows then companies will be driven to supply them.

      Another poster made fun of this comment, but I agree with you. Demand however varies and is influenced by a lot of external factors - price being a major factor.

      These days, with gasoline prices as they are, major auto makers are seeing less pickup/van/SUV sales, as people are favoring smaller, high MPG vehicles. Ford is even closing some plants that primarily make parts for the larger vehicles. Some people just like big vehicles, and much of that market is switching to smaller vehicles lately since the larger ones are becoming more and more expensive to operate.

      So yes - as more consumers demand energy efficient electronics, manufacturers will shift their focus. The more devices we run in our homes, the more of an impact this will make. Most computer equipment these days have the "Energy Star" logo, but I'm not sure if that really means much... if it can be made better, someone will make it better.

      With computing equipment we already know that they are capable of making power-efficient devices (look at laptops). Desktop systems however don't have such an immediate need for this, and often tend to use less efficient components/designs...

      --
      NGWave - Fast Sound Editor for Windows
    7. Re:supply & demand by GigsVT · · Score: 1

      So what? The whole point of freedom is the freedom to do stupid things (or thing that other people think are stupid).

      --
      I've had enough abrasive sigs. Kittens are cute and fuzzy.
  15. Standby estimates by maximthemagnificent · · Score: 2

    A friend of mine rents a loft in my house and he asked me to check out why his part
    of our power bill was so much greater (he now has a meter). Turns out his standby
    power on all his devices is half of his total average power draw. They are on all the
    time, after all, whereas the bigegr items are used mkore rarely. He also has more
    gizmos than you can shake a stick at. To sum thar up: when he's away from the house
    on vacation or whatever, with TVs and compuetrs off, his power draw is still at 50% of
    the noraml amount. For what's it's worth...

    Maxim'

  16. two simple things would totally fix it by JustNiz · · Score: 3, Insightful

    1) Off buttons that really turn off the power, not just put the device in a 'standby mode'.

    2) Manufacturers should be obliged to make low-voltage devices have transformers internal(and wired after the power switch), and make those really annoying power bricks you now get with everything illegal.

    Apart from usually being a ridiculous single-piece design that occludes several other sockets in a power strip, they cause massive cable tangles and practical use requires that they be left permanently powered-on.

    1. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by beelsebob · · Score: 1

      Actually - removing standby buttons would be a bloody silly idea. At least with Macs, I'm lead to believe that the power used to boot the machine is greater than the power used to keep the machine sleeping for a week, so roll on those standby buttons. Bob

    2. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by swb · · Score: 1

      What's the manufacturing/engineering/economic reason that so many things use external power bricks instead of internal transformers?

      Has the manufacturing of power bricks become so efficient that they are in effect "free" and device designers simply assume a DC power source?

      Does the extra space/heat/complexity of including the transformer within the device and the larger power connector required to actually plug it in make the devices that much more expensive to manufacture or somehow less attractive to customers because their 4x4x1 gizmo is now 5x5x2?

      It just seems kind of baffling to me -- the transformer circuits are probably "circuits 101" in terms of complexity and they're not that large. I just don't understand how its cheaper and simpler to source bricks from a third party (and all the associated logistics) as well as the more complicated packaging (usually you see much more elaborate internal packaging for bricks).

    3. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by walt-sjc · · Score: 4, Interesting

      OK, here are the numbers for a mac mini (no monitor - just the cpu.)

      Powered off: 0.035A
      Booting: 0.250A - 0.320A
      On, but idle: 0.180A - 0.250A
      Sleep mode: 0.050A
      Unplugged: 0.0A

      So booting isn't that much more power than idle, and it's for a short period of time.

      I find it interesting that powered off isn't really powered off, so you are better off using the switch on your power strip than relying on the mac "off" mode, which isn't a whole lot better than sleep.

      Someone who wants to play with math more than me can figure out the break-even points, but it's clear that you are far better off unplugging your mac and rebooting overnight than leaving it in sleep mode. It's a no-brainer for a week. This basically says, unplug all your crap when you go on vacation, because with modern electronics, off isn't off.

    4. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by ex-geek · · Score: 1
      2) Manufacturers should be obliged to make low-voltage devices have transformers internal(and wired after the power switch), and make those really annoying power bricks you now get with everything illegal.

      What I'd like to do is to power peripherals with the efficient power supply of my PC instead of having to independently manage a myriad of said annoying bricks.

      USB maxes out at 2.5W, which is at least good enough to power a scanner, but not much more.

    5. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Rob+the+Bold · · Score: 5, Informative
      What's the manufacturing/engineering/economic reason that so many things use external power bricks instead of internal transformers?

      Glad you asked. The main reason is safety regulations. Devices that plug in to your household power need 3rd party certification (e.g. UL approval in US). Power supply design is a specialty, and although any EE could do it, not all can do it well, quickly and cheaply. If you (as designer) spec an external transformer, then you don't have to worry about the approval. You just buy an approved transformer and design your device to work on low voltage. This saves you thousands of dollars and many man-hours of time per design by not having to hire an independent lab to verify your safety compliance.

      As an additional benefit, you can sell you product to work with different AC voltages just by supplying the appropriate transformer for each market. Plus, when you buy an external transformer, you get economies of scale because it can power not only your devices but many others built by thousands of other firms.

      --
      I am not a crackpot.
    6. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by 1u3hr · · Score: 1
      At least with Macs, I'm lead to believe that the power used to boot the machine is greater than the power used to keep the machine sleeping for a week,

      This is like that prevalent myth that turning a fluorescent light on and off uses up more energy than running it all day.

      If your Mac takes 1 minute to boot, for your claim to be true it would have to draw 60x24x7 times as much power as it does when "sleeping", i.e., if it draws 5W when sleeping (surely it would be more) then booting would draw over 50kW. I think not. (If it takes 2 minutes to boot, half that, if 30 seconds, double; same ball park.)

    7. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Not to mention that a lot of the heat of the power supply is in the transformer and if you move that outside the unit then it not only becomes smaller and potentially more attractive, but it also runs cooler.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    8. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 2, Interesting
      What's the manufacturing/engineering/economic reason that so many things use external power bricks instead of internal transformers?

      Manufacturing costs: you get economy of scale on the power supply circuits.
      Liability: if the power supply blows up, *you* didn't design or build it. Also, users of the circuit can't be directly exposed to 120VAC.
      Size: yes, the circuit can be smaller, and the extra parts are out of the way on a floor or wall.

      The problem with many wall wart bricks is that their transformer's primary winding is energized all the time and thus drawing power. The "power" switch on the device only switches the low-voltage side. Whereas, if the circuit is built into the device, the power switch often switches the high-voltage side. What we need is a better power brick - one that doesn't stay on all of the time but checks if there's a closed circuit between one of the outputs and a "switch" line maybe 1x/sec and only turns on if there is. You'd still need to draw a bit of power in pulses, or maybe you could run the testing circuitry off a backup capacitor internal to the 'wart.

      -b.

    9. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      Devices that plug in to your household power need 3rd party certification (e.g. UL approval in US).

      It's actually *not* illegal to plug in a non UL-approved device in the US. Your fire insurance just may not pay if it burns your house down - Underwriters Labs is actually an insurance testing organisation.

      You will have electrical codes that say that fixed devices that are part of the house's wiring must be UL-approved, so you'll need large appliances and the wiring itself to be UL approved to pass inspection.

      -b.

    10. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      OK. Is it unreasonable to have a contact powered by a secondary, lower-wattage, x-former that provides for the "instant-on" functionality? Obviously, this would add more wires and require a different adapater. There would still be an 'always-on' transformer albeit a potentially smaller one.

    11. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Faeton · · Score: 2, Insightful

      That is the case, but why don't they do go one step further in the quasi-standardization of transformers and make the power plug (the one that goes to the device) all the same? I'm sure the vast majority of us don't have to charge ever little gadget we have, all at once. If they made all the charging plugs universal (say, mini-USB) and the same voltage, we could save a lot of power and socket space by unplugging all those wall-warts.

    12. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by ivan256 · · Score: 1

      Devices that plug in to your household power need 3rd party certification (e.g. UL approval in US).

      No they don't.

      Many rectified DC power supplies with a transformer aren't UL listed. I just did a quick poll of the devices on my desk... Half (3 of 6) aren't UL listed. Unless you have a name-brand PC, there is a good chance that your PC's power supply isn't UL listed either.

      It's just cheaper and easier to use an external power supply. It makes it so that part of your design can be re-sourced when a cheaper supplier is available without having to redesign the rest of the system.

    13. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by sfe_software · · Score: 1

      I fully agree with the points you made, and would like to add that by using an external power source, the device itself can be made smaller, require less ventilation, and weigh less. Plus, many such devices can be operated on batteries or with a 12V car adapter, all of which is made easier by making the power supply a separate unit.

      I also wanted to emphasize the point you made about economies of scale. If your device requires, say, 9VDC at 200ma, you can source any compatible power supply; the same supply might be used for a thousand other products as well, and as such is available at an extremely low cost. Many devices in my house have a power supply with an entirely different brand/logo from the device itself...

      --
      NGWave - Fast Sound Editor for Windows
    14. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Hirsto · · Score: 0

      Your measurements for "Off", and "Sleep" are almost purely reactive current flow and contribute almost no "Real" power.

      For example: two 0.33uF capacitors in parallel across the line and neutral connections (typical ballpark values for the conducted emissions filter but may be as small as 0.22uF or as high as a 1uF or 2uF) will draw 120V*2*pi*60*0.33^-06*2 amps or 0.03A. This yields a reactive power of 3.5VARs (volts-amps-reactive), your power meter only registers "Real" power so you aren't billed for this reactive power.

      The "Real" power when off is from a small bleed resistor in the filter and the power consumed to keep any standby electronics alive. This resistor is used to safely discharge the conducted emissions filter capacitors so you don't get a shock if you touch the prongs on the power jack after pulling the plug from the wall socket. Typical values for this resistor range from 220k to 750k ohms. So for worst case the bleed resistor is using roughly 120V*120V/220kohms=65mW. As you can see the reactive power is >50X larger than the real power when the device is off.

      Without measuring the powerfactor of the mac mini in sleep we don't know the exact "Real" power but we can assume that a significan portion of the reactive power in idle is that same as when off and then use the fact that VARs are the geometric sum of the real and reactive power and approximate the real power very closely as sqrt(120V*0.05A)^2-3.5^2)= 4.87W. This of course would correspond to a power factor (REAL/VARs) of 4.87W/6VA=0.81 which is a very good power factor for such a light load.

      The average power cost in the US is now $0.1/kwhr so it would cost roughly 5W*24*365/1000=$4.38/year to just leave your mini powered on 24/7.

      I wouldn't worry about this.......

    15. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by sfe_software · · Score: 2, Informative

      The problem with many wall wart bricks is that their transformer's primary winding is energized all the time and thus drawing power.

      This is true to an extent, but the amount of power drawn in "zero load" conditions is quite small. The more load placed on the secondary, the more load seen on the primary. Some energy is wasted as heat. IIRC, a typical iron-core transformer is around 85% efficient at 50/60 Hz line current.

      Switch mode power supplies can be much more efficient (such as a laptop "brick" or a PC supply) but they are often designed cheaply, resulting in less efficiency...

      In general, cheap "wall wart" plug-in transformers do waste some power even when the device is off or even disconnected. They do produce some heat just being plugged in; however it is generally less than 1 watt with no load...

      --
      NGWave - Fast Sound Editor for Windows
    16. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      This is true to an extent, but the amount of power drawn in "zero load" conditions is quite small.

      Of course power drawn changes with load, but I've understood no-load mains power draw to be at least 25% of max. power draw (at least in cheap wallwart type supplies).

      Some energy is wasted as heat. IIRC, a typical iron-core transformer is around 85% efficient at 50/60 Hz line current.

      Switch mode power supplies can be much more efficient

      The other problem with *pure* switchers is that they're probably illegal in some applications. Got to have that means of isolation from the mains!

      80/85% is a bit deceptive though. Normally, this is qualified as "at rated load." Deviate from that load either direction and efficiency drops significantly.

    17. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by julesh · · Score: 1

      Apart from usually being a ridiculous single-piece design that occludes several other sockets in a power strip, they cause massive cable tangles and practical use requires that they be left permanently powered-on.

      Checking mine with a power usage meter suggests somewhere around 3/4 of them are high enough quality that they don't draw power when not loaded up.

    18. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by quacking+duck · · Score: 1

      A similar argument was made a few days ago regarding China possibly mandating standard power and data connection plugs. The same counter-argument can be made here--it would prevent improvements to the mandated standard.

      Admittedly, most plugs are different just to keep them proprietary, so the manufacturers can charge an arm and leg to replace your old/worn out adapter, but every now and there really is an improvement, like the MagSafe plugs that power Apple's Macbook and Macbook Pros.

    19. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by sfe_software · · Score: 1

      The other problem with *pure* switchers is that they're probably illegal in some applications. Got to have that means of isolation from the mains!

      Most switching supplies I've seen do isolate from the mains. Generally the mains voltage is rectified to DC, then switched via MOSFETs driving a small transformer. Since this is at high frequency and nearly square wave, the transformer can be significantly smaller than one using the 50/60 Hz sin wave.

      The small transformer isolates the circuit, and feedback (for voltage regulation) is usually provided via an opto-coupler.

      I don't believe I've ever encountered a "pure" switching supply that used the mains voltage and simply outputted a lower voltage by varying the duty cycle, with no isolation...

      --
      NGWave - Fast Sound Editor for Windows
    20. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by NerveGas · · Score: 1

      Instead of internal transformers, use switching power supplies. My laptop uses one, and it is amazingly efficient. When my laptop is turned off, the power draw from the wall is low enough to simply read zero on my power meter. I leave an extra charger plugged in near my night stand, and don't even worry about it.

      steve

      --
      Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
    21. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Kintanon · · Score: 1

      Ummm, almost everything in my house is plugged into a powerstrip that has an off switch. When I want to turn something off I just flip the switch. As far as I know nothing is pulling power through the strip when it's turned off.... Works for TV + DVD + Game Consoles. Works for PC + Monitors + Switch + Router + speakers + DSL. When I leave for more than a day or two I flip all the switches and turn out all of the lights and power draw goes bye bye.
      Though the biggest thing I did to drop my power bill was to toss out the 1972 refrigerator I had and replace it with a modern minifridge. Instant 50% drop in power usage.

      Kintanon

      --
      Check out JoshJitsu.info for Brazilian Ji
    22. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by JustNiz · · Score: 1

      OK now imagine the power consumed by all the macs in the US in standby mode: Apparently a single powered off mac still consumes 0.035A
      I cant find actual numbers of macs currently in use but in the last quarter of 2005 apple annouced sales of 1.3 million macs. Lest call that 5 million/yr. Now lets say macs have a life of 3 years. Thats 15 million = 525000 amps = 57 million watts of power just running macs in standalone mode.

    23. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by hankwang · · Score: 1
      IIRC, a typical iron-core transformer is around 85% efficient at 50/60 Hz line current.

      The primary winding of any transformer carries a current in the absence of a secondary load. Ideally, it would behave as a purely inductive load. See for example the wart under my desk: it says primary 230 V, 140 mA (=32 VA), secondary 15 V, 1 A (=15 VA). Unfortunately, the primary winding for low-power transformers is made of very thin wire with a significant ohmic resistance, which makes it dissipate energy while running idle. Even though a transformer might be 85% efficient at full load (which seems low for a typical wall wart), most of the losses are constant and independent of the load. Hence at low load, the efficiency approaches 0%.

    24. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Eil · · Score: 1

      1) Off buttons that really turn off the power, not just put the device in a 'standby mode'.

      I agree with you, but electronics manufacturers won't. The first being remote controls and other remote-powering-on devices. There has to be some source of power if you want your device to power on when you press the power button on the remote control. Of course you CAN build a small battery and circuit into the device that monitors the IR sensor and closes a relay when the correct signal is recieved. However, the power savings might not adequately offset the power required to charge the battery and it would probably add a non-trivial cost to the production of most devices under $100. It also adds some complexity to the operation of the device. (In some cases, your TV would have to "charge" before it could be turned on, or it would have a second "on" button in the back.)

      Also, consumers have fallen in love with modern power buttons. Most people aren't consciously aware of it, but it's a serious power trip (no pun intended) when the lightest touch of a button makes your home entertainment theatre come to life in high-defintion video and booming surround sound. The first consumer devices to go back to the chunky 15A 110V power switches will collect dust on the shelves.

      2) Manufacturers should be obliged to make low-voltage devices have transformers internal(and wired after the power switch), and make those really annoying power bricks you now get with everything illegal.

      Again, cost. Manufacturers use wall warts and floor warts for their devices because it keeps their production costs low. Power transformers are no trifling thing to build into a piece of electronic gadgetry. Especially when A) omitting them from the device itself saves enormously on manufacturing costs (both parts and labor), B) consumers continually demand smaller and lighter devices, C) they can order wall warts from factories that do nothing but churn out wall warts for pennies each and just bundle one with each device.

    25. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by noidentity · · Score: 1

      Plug everything into a power strip and turn it off when you're not watching. As an added bonus, the devices are isolated from the power line so they aren't having to endure any of the crap that comes over from time to time. I bet you can even get a remote-controlled power strip, reducing the number of always-active devices to one (the power strip).

      Power bricks allow reduced cost by avoiding the need for safety testing of every new electronic device. The brick deals with high voltage and current, so it gets tested once. Then you build 100 products using that power brick model and they are all guaranteed safe (at least electrically) because they are isolated by the brick.

    26. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Apotsy · · Score: 1

      The mac mini has an external power brick. Can you do that test with something that has an internal power supply, like an iMac?

    27. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by Brianwa · · Score: 1

      Personally, I prefer the beefy old power switches that go ca-CHUNK when you use them. Modern ones just aren't as satisfying.

    28. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by evilviper · · Score: 1
      you are better off using the switch on your power strip than relying on the mac "off" mode,

      Only if you don't mind replacing dead CMOS batteries all the time...

      which isn't a whole lot better than sleep.

      Your numbers seem suspicious. I've found my own PC in S3 standby to be using little more than it would when off. I'm surprised Apple would be so much worse.
      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
    29. Re:two simple things would totally fix it by evilviper · · Score: 1
      however it is generally less than 1 watt with no load...

      I've tested dozens, and the smaller ones all use approx. 2 watts, while the larger ones use slightly more (3-4).

      With perhaps a dozen wall-warts, plugged-in 24/7 in most households, that becomes a rather significant ammount of completely wasted electricity. Moreso in the summer when your AC is wasting even more power to remove that waste heat.
      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  17. I'm pretty sure... by Kjella · · Score: 1

    ...my computer is using a lot more power than before - then again, it didn't play back HDTV or very impressive 3D games before either. And my last TV, well it's a lot bigger and thus draws a lot more watts than my last one. Compare that to a washing machine - it washes my clothes, they get clean. Two thumbs up for that, I don't need one spinning twice as fast. I must admit, I don't think energy efficiency when I look at power draw, I think cooling and noise - sitting in front of a computer is hardly an expensive hobby (or at least not because of the electricity bill). If I could get a computer with same price, same power, twice the powerdraw and fanless/SSD I'd get one in a heartbeat. All the options are either notoriously expensive (quiet hardware), cumbersome (cables and closet) or underpowered (thin front-end boxes). But in no case have I thought "This would use too much power"

    --
    Live today, because you never know what tomorrow brings
    1. Re:I'm pretty sure... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      Compare that to a washing machine - it washes my clothes, they get clean. Two thumbs up for that, I don't need one spinning twice as fast.

      Better quality washing machines do spin faster. The typical range for spin drying is between 600RPM and 1800RPM. I have seen commercial washing machines with spin cycles of 3200RPM. Faster spin cycles will wring more waster out of the clothes, reducing the drying time. This might save you money if you use a tumble dryer.

  18. Ehh by Kim+Jong+Ill · · Score: 0

    Do Tesla coils count as home electronics?

    --
    I don't want Karma, I just want to be a smart ass. All in favor, mod me up.
    1. Re:Ehh by Dunbal · · Score: 1

      Do Tesla coils count as home electronics?

            Only if they generate less than 10M V...

      --
      Seven puppies were harmed during the making of this post.
  19. Inflation by Colin+Smith · · Score: 1

    Something central to human psychology. The more we have of something, the more we use. It's why supply and demand works, why scarce things are valuable.

    --
    Deleted
    1. Re:Inflation by Bloke+down+the+pub · · Score: 4, Insightful
      The more we have of something, the more we use. It's why supply and demand works
      No it isn't.
      --
      It's true I tell you, feller at work's next door neighbour read it in the paper.
    2. Re:Inflation by Moofie · · Score: 0, Flamebait

      Well, golly. Thanks for clearing that up for us.

      --
      Why yes, I AM a rocket scientist!
  20. Lighting Policy by maximthemagnificent · · Score: 1

    I am bulding my own house, and early on my wife and I agreed on a lighting policy. The
    idea is to have low-level lighting for navigation putposes, with task lighting for extra
    illiumination right where you need it (desk lamps, light in the cosmetic area, closet lgiths
    & cabinet lights on door siwtches, a light in the shower on a timer, etc).

    Of course, since I'm building the house myself, right now all we have are drop lights hooked to
    extension coords! At least there are floursecent bulbs in those drop lights!

    Maxim

  21. Gadgets using more power, lights can use less powe by Secrity · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I admit it, I now have more gadgets drawing current than I did five years ago. I have also reduced power consumption in the past five years. Five years ago, my typical electric bill was US $125 a month, it is now in the $75 range. None of the changes have caused any hardships or reduction in quality of life.

    1. Replaced heat pump with a more efficient model and installed set back thermostat. I lucked out, the compressor crapped out and I had a service policy. The impact on quality of life is nil, I had to learn the new thermostat.

    2. Replaced refrigerator with a more efficient model. It was expensive but the old refrigerator was about 30 years old and was reaching the end of it's service life. It is a nicer refrigerator than the old one and it is quieter.

    3. Replaced commonly used light bulbs with compact fluorescent. This was an inexpensive change and it had the most impact on quality of life. The color and light quality of the new compact fluorescents compares to the old lights but they take a few minutes to produce full light output. They remind me of a tube type radio warming up.

    I think that the most interesting replacements were the night lights. I replaced the 6 night lights that used to draw about 4 watts each with LEDs. I connected a wall wart to an unused wire pair in my home telephone wiring and I use the phone wiring to transport power to my night light LEDs. I had the wall wart, LEDs, and other parts in my junk box -- and they work great.

    The light conversion is both saving power used for lighting and reducing the summer air conditioning load. Someday I might even figure out how long it will take to save any money by replacing those lights. The main light in the living room was a 300 watt halogen torchiere which I replaced with three fluorescent flood lights which cost $35 for a new floor lamp and bulbs, rated power consumption went from 300 watts down to about 75 watts; and I frequently don't turn on all three of the bulbs. This summer I noticed that the living room was much cooler with the new lights. The kitchen is saving a similar amount of watts but the lights in the kitchen are not used very often.

  22. Not the problem, but not ignorable by pla · · Score: 1

    This article has COMPLETELY missed the point.

    Consumer electronics do increasingly contribute to a home's electric budget, but only by virtue of quantity. Except for PCs and TVs, most products draw a pittance. For PCs, they did draw more and more power from the mid-80s to a year or two ago, but newer CPUs have finally addressed that problem (and power supplies have gotten more efficient as well). For TVs, larger means more power, but the tech has drastically improved... A 50" plasma draws comparable to a 30" old-style CRT, and LCDs drop that by another 80% or so.

    The real power-hungry devices in most homes haven't changed in 50 years... Refridgerator, electric stove/oven, electric clothesdryer, electric water heater, AC, electric heat (so bad that you virtually never see it in places that actually get cold). Simply cooking dinner every night on an electric stovetop puts every high-tech toy in the house combined to shame for power draw.

    1. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by Dunbal · · Score: 1

      but newer CPUs have finally addressed that problem (and power supplies have gotten more efficient as well).

            Are you saying that my PC XT with a CGA card, a dinky little power supply fan, and a 150 watt power supply was less power hungry than my Athlon 64 X2 Dual with 2 top of the line video cards, SIX fans, and that REQUIRES (I know this cos I have already burned 2 out) at least a 550 Watt power supply to run? Computers were more efficient a few years ago around the 1990's, but now they serve as processing units AND space heaters...

      --
      Seven puppies were harmed during the making of this post.
    2. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by imsabbel · · Score: 1

      A Geforce 8800 uses more power in idle alone than 3 386 computers with 14" b/w monitors...

      --
      HI O WISE PRINCE. WHT TOOK U SO DAM LONG?
    3. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by WhatAmIDoingHere · · Score: 1

      But you can do more with it. That's the point. It's more efficient. More bang for the buck.

      --
      Not a Twitter sockpuppet... but I wish I was.
    4. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by Bishop · · Score: 1

      Most of the "real" power hungry appliances have changed dramatically in 50 years. The efficiency of refrigerators and A/C has improved dramatically. Lennox sells a 20 SER A/C that is twice as efficient as the common 10 SER compressors. Frigs are made with better insulation and more efficient compressors. Hot water heaters, dryers, and ovens use better insulation and are more efficient. Clothes washers use better motors. Electric heat is still as efficient as possible. (The problem with electric heat has never been efficiency, but cost. Oil and gas are cheaper.)

      The issue is not that a big appliance uses more power then an electric gadget, but that the gadget is often wasting electricity. The energy used by the stove is for a specific purpose and is generally all used to heat food. The energy used by many gadgets is often just waste heat.

    5. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      The real power-hungry devices in most homes haven't changed in 50 years... Refridgerator, electric stove/oven, electric clothesdryer, electric water heater, AC, electric heat (so bad that you virtually never see it in places that actually get cold). Simply cooking dinner every night on an electric stovetop puts every high-tech toy in the house combined to shame for power draw.

      BTW, you can't actually do much about electric heater devices' efficiency since they're already practically 100% efficient - i.e. they convert almost 100% of their electricity input to heat at the heating coil. You can do something about electric house heat - supplement it with a heat pump which moves heat rather than generating it. Since it's a heat engine in reverse, you can actually move more heat than energy put in. The only problem is that they work poorly in very cold weather, which is why I said "supplement" not "replace."

      -b.

    6. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by imsabbel · · Score: 1

      No, during idle you are doing NOTHING with it.

      If you actually get it to do something, it needs as much as 6-7 old pcs

      --
      HI O WISE PRINCE. WHT TOOK U SO DAM LONG?
    7. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by WhatAmIDoingHere · · Score: 0, Flamebait

      You continue to miss the point, jackass.

      YOU. CAN. DO. MORE. WITH. IT. compared to 20 PCs from 19dickity2, you can do MUCH more with your hardware. BANG FOR THE BUCK.

      You're more dense than the average digger, and that's saying something.

      --
      Not a Twitter sockpuppet... but I wish I was.
    8. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by Fulcrum+of+Evil · · Score: 1

      Who gives a damn? Your dryer uses way more power than a GF8800 and that's only in use a few hours a week.

      --
      "We returned the General to El Salvador, or maybe Guatemala, it's difficult to tell from 10,000 feet"
    9. Re:Not the problem, but not ignorable by imsabbel · · Score: 1

      Go somewhere and DIE. Please. You will do the world a favour.

      Just be reducing the average retardation of the world.

      --
      HI O WISE PRINCE. WHT TOOK U SO DAM LONG?
  23. New definition to always on by Sigma+7 · · Score: 1

    My TV has a power button, which works as a hard power button. There's also the TV remote, which puts the TV into the "soft-off" state where it's ready to turn on, but not exactly off. That's not all - when there's a power failure, the TV turns on as soon as power is restored. Given the size of the TV, I guess the manufacturer thought it would be used as a Kiosk where it needed to be always on rather than being used at home.

    I guess it's no worse than the "Wake on Modem" that's enabled by default in the computer bios.

    1. Re:New definition to always on by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's variable. Our Pioneer plasma uses a massive 26W when in standby mode. We always kill all power via a power strip so it doesn't really affect us, but I'm pretty sure the vast majority of owners of these sets don't do that. The STB uses ~20W too, pushing us up to almost 50W for two devices that are supposed to be almost off.

      You also have to be wary of power consumption when is use. Ours can get up to 300W, awful really, but the equivalent Panasonic plasmas hit 500W! LCD panels are almost as bad as plasmas when you get into TV size panels too, although I never saw anything as disgraceful as the Panasonic's consumption. This company should be named and shamed with Energy Star badges revoked.

    2. Re:New definition to always on by jrothwell97 · · Score: 1

      Sounds like computers. The first one I remember using was an old Dell that used to belong to my uncle. The switch on there was the sort you use on lights, with two exciting settings - on or off.

      With the advent of things like ACPI and APM, computers (and other consumer appliances) are always on unless you flick the hard switch at the back or unplug it at the mains.

      I think I've worked out the culprit. Almost every consumer appliance has a clock nowadays, but very few have CMOS batteries - maybe it's because they can't be bothered to reset the clock after switching them back on.

      --
      Those using pirated Tinysoft signatures(TM) are a real threat to society and should all be thrown in jail.
  24. Idle usage by Alain+Williams · · Score: 1
    It is interesting to take his numbers and do a bit of arithmetic. The highest power user is the kettle, but is only on for (say) 10 minutes a day, whereas the DVD and microwave are on all day (1440 minutes) [I assume that you never cook anything for watch a film]:

    what.. usage mins watt-minutes
    m.wave 3 1440 4,320
    dvd... 7 1440 10,080
    kettle 1475 10 14,750

    So what you think is the big user (kettle) is about the same as the microwave.

    1. Re:Idle usage by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

              what.. usage mins watt-minutes
              m.wave 3 1440 4,320
              dvd... 7 1440 10,080
              kettle 1475 10 14,750

      So what you think is the big user (kettle) is about the same as the microwave.

      Um, by your own numbers the kettle is using over three times as many watt-minutes per day as the microwave.

  25. that's good and all... by the+dark+hero · · Score: 1

    ...but what about my george foreman grill!?

    --
    You constantly struggle for self improvement - and it shows.

    Hooray for bad Engrish on fortune cookies

    1. Re:that's good and all... by Bratch · · Score: 1

      Depends on what kind you have. This one is my favorite, the USB iGrill: http://www.thinkgeek.com/stuff/looflirpa/igrill.sh tml

      --
      Beware of the Redittor who loans you a Sharpie.
  26. It's not all wasted energy by Elkboy · · Score: 1

    The heat generated by my computer is cosy now during winter. I assume it's the same for all gadgets to some extent. Of course, this becomes a nuisance come summer...

  27. woo by nomadic · · Score: 1

    A Wall Street Journal columnist

    Cool, you establish the lack of credibility with the first sentence; that's very convenient.

  28. Consumers need to shop for efficiency. by Dystopian+Rebel · · Score: 1

    Your LCD monitor: "90W".

    Do you know that Philips makes some of the most efficient LCD monitors? I have a 19" model that consumes 34W of power.

    --
    Rich And Stupid is not so bad as Working For Rich And Stupid.
    1. Re:Consumers need to shop for efficiency. by walt-sjc · · Score: 1

      My Xerox 19's take 38W each, and my IBM is 37W. With his IP phone numbers which are 3X too high, I'm starting to believe his meter is borked.

    2. Re:Consumers need to shop for efficiency. by Dystopian+Rebel · · Score: 1

      Those are respectable consumption figures too. LCD monitors larger than 19" are hogs but anything 19" or less has no good excuse for being wasteful.

      --
      Rich And Stupid is not so bad as Working For Rich And Stupid.
  29. Save the freaking information. by MikeFM · · Score: 1

    One thing that really annoys me is that most televisions, DVD players, VCRs, game consoles, etc lose their data and have to have some level of reconfiguration on start-up if you hard kill their power. I'd love to be able to put all that crap on a power strip that I could flip everything on, or off, at once on and save some power when I don't need them. It doesn't cost all that much more (a couple dollars) to build such items to retain such information when cut off from power - most companies just don't bother. As far as I know there isn't even any label for the consumer to look for to know which items would retain such information.

    For that matter why does every device in my house require configuration? IMO I don't even need a real tv anymore - cut out the tuner and pretty much all options and just make it work as a monitor for whatever devices are plugged into it. If everything needs to know the time then why don't we design them all to use the atomic time as broadcast or design homes to broadcast their own time signal. Why do I need to configure everything to know what everything else is? Have the tv and devices attached to it auto-sense each other and auto-configure properly. (And off-topic, but related, why do we need so many cords? Can't we figure out how to send power and data on the same single cord so I don't need twenty cables behind my damn tv?)

    --
    At what price learning? At what cost wisdom? The price is a man's peace of mind, and the cost is his life.
    1. Re:Save the freaking information. by WhatAmIDoingHere · · Score: 1

      If a clear signal is not important to you, you can. The problem is that the power'll really fuck up your reception.

      I do like your idea of having all devices recognize all other devices, though. Bluetooth would be perfect for that.

      --
      Not a Twitter sockpuppet... but I wish I was.
    2. Re:Save the freaking information. by Blakey+Rat · · Score: 1

      I've always wondered why home entertainment devices can't talk to each other at all. I mean, if I turn on my DVD player and hit Play, it should be able to automatically set my TV to the DVD input and make sure it's on. It should also talk to my surround receiver and turn it on and switch its input. This could all be done easily with USB, or Bluetooth (like another commenter suggested) and yet there's nothing in place.

    3. Re:Save the freaking information. by LunaticTippy · · Score: 1

      I can do 30 watts over 10gigabit ethernet. You don't need 10gbit to stream video. You can also do internet over power lines. It's perfectly possible, with current technology, to combine very high power and datarates.

      --
      Man, you really need that seminar!
    4. Re:Save the freaking information. by WhatAmIDoingHere · · Score: 1

      Well, as soon as you figure out how to do power and coax for cable TV in the same cable, without any issues, let me know. Because, and I may be wrong here, I thought we were talking about the cables behind a TV.

      --
      Not a Twitter sockpuppet... but I wish I was.
    5. Re:Save the freaking information. by plover · · Score: 1
      Amen, Brother Mike!

      You nailed one of my pet peeves dead on -- why does every device in the house need a clock? Stoves, microwave ovens, television sets, telephones, why? A long time ago I bought an electric toothbrush whose charging stand came with a freakin' clock! Enough already!

      If my VCRs blink 12:00 these days, it's not because I can't fix them, it's because I've stopped caring if they know what time it is. I'd rather they just include a permanent "clock-off" setting.

      Oh, and to kind of get back on the topic of power and your last question; I've long been looking for a "universal low-voltage power supply" solution to the proliferation of wall-warts I've got hanging under my desk at home. I believe I have over twenty transformers powering every device individually. I've long wanted to install a single power supply with a low voltage bus to feed everything. Of course, every device has its own power requirements, from 3.3V, 4.5V, 5V, 6V, 9V, 12V to 18V and who knows what else.

      I've also long hoped that Retail USB would take off in the home user market but it hasn't. Cash registers each have many peripherals, such as scanners, scales, card readers, change machines, cash drawers, printers, etc. And they all take more power than USB can typically provide, and some (such as thermal receipt printers) have higher voltage requirements, too. Retailers balked at installing more outlets beneath their cash registers to hang a bunch of wall-warts, so IBM, Fujitsu, NCR and other vendors came up with "Powered USB". It's an just ordinary type-B USB connector that has a stacked power connector mounted just above it, and these power connectors can supply up to 2 amps each at +5V, +12V or +24V. This would allow a USB port to provide enough current for just about any device a home user would wish to connect (short of a laser printer.) But unfortunately the standard never caught on beyond the single industrial application of cash registers.

      --
      John
    6. Re:Save the freaking information. by NerveGas · · Score: 1

      Just transmit the power DC, and use the heavy-gauge cable. There are already plenty of cable tv amplifiers which use that concept, the "power injector" can be farther down the line than the amplifier. Take the same concept and just scale it up.

      steve

      --
      Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
    7. Re:Save the freaking information. by NerveGas · · Score: 1

      There's at least some level of that communication, if you buy all of your equipment from the same vendor. One of my setups, if you hit "play" on the CD player, will turn on the amplifier and set the input appropriately.

      Or you can buy one of the expensive programmable remote. I just bought a hundred-and-some-odd dollar Logitech programmable remote for my mother which allows her to hit things like "play movie", and everything will be set correctly.

      steve

      --
      Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
    8. Re:Save the freaking information. by Blakey+Rat · · Score: 1

      The problem with the universal remote is that it doesn't know whether the TV is already on. If I have a programmed set for "turn on TV, turn on DVD player, set TV to channel 3, set TV input to DVD-In, Press Play on DVD player"... and I hit that button while the TV is already on, I certainly don't get what I want.

    9. Re:Save the freaking information. by LunaticTippy · · Score: 1

      "Digital Cable" is all the rage. It would be trivial to provide digital cable and power over the same line. If you must use analog, you use DC power. Very easy!

      The sole reason we have the nest of cables is to simplify interaction between different manufacturers, providers, and legacy equipment. There hasn't been any technical problem with this since the 70s or earlier.

      --
      Man, you really need that seminar!
    10. Re:Save the freaking information. by hankwang · · Score: 1
      I've long wanted to install a single power supply with a low voltage bus to feed everything.

      That's a bad idea, unless the equipment either is designed to be powered from a common supply, or is not interconnected in any way. Otherwise you will get ground loops in the best case (causing noise and hard-to-reproduce errors in digital transmissions), and in the worst case a shortcut that fries both the equipment and the power supply. The latter is because the ground levels of the different devices do not necessarily correspond to the minus pole of their power supplies. That's most obvious with things like audio equipment, where the ground level is halfway between the minus and the plus.

    11. Re:Save the freaking information. by Your+Pal+Dave · · Score: 1

      There's been a standard for this in place since '92, CEBus. The CE manufacturers haven't exactly fallen over each other rushing to adopt CEBus, preferring their own proprietary interfaces. That way you're locked into buying all of your components by the same brand. God forbid that your Sorny DVD would work with your Panaphonic TV and Magnetbox receiver for any thing more complicated than passing AV signals back and forth.

    12. Re:Save the freaking information. by MikeFM · · Score: 1

      I shouldn't be all that hard to define a new power and data over one cable standard. I don't even care if internally it's two (or more) wires shielded from each other. It seems to me all the details of interconnections should be handled by the power strip / network switch. All devices should be able to sense each other and figure out who wants, and can get, access to the others. So the screen is a pure output device, the PinkDisc SHD-DVD, PS4, Woo, and XBox 666 are pure input devices, the DVR can capture the outputs of other devices as input and also output to other interested devices, etc. It could even be as simple as giving each device it's own output channel to broadcast on and letting the devices tune to the channels they are interested in.

      I'd just use some souped up version of PoE and keep as much of the rest of the ethernet spec as possible intact. Then drop in a simple communications protocol and you're set.

      --
      At what price learning? At what cost wisdom? The price is a man's peace of mind, and the cost is his life.
    13. Re:Save the freaking information. by MikeFM · · Score: 1

      Most consumer electronics lack any sort of vision. Like certain bloatware software we're all familiar with they tend to add lots of features most people won't use while ignoring simple ease of use issues. I can't even count up the number of people I've had to help add a new DVD player or game console to their entertainment center because it was to confussing for them to get right. Quite a few I had to help configure their devices too because they didn't work out of the box and have a lot of complex technical options (which are all reset when there is a power outage!).

      --
      At what price learning? At what cost wisdom? The price is a man's peace of mind, and the cost is his life.
  30. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by Dunbal · · Score: 1

    land line wired phone without any bells & whistles and it'll consume zero watts until you take it off the hook.

          And the watts it DOES consume are taken from the telephone company line, not your house's power.

    --
    Seven puppies were harmed during the making of this post.
  31. Wastage here and there from small devices adds up by Malc · · Score: 1

    My Creative Labs computer speakers draw 75% power of the "on" when supposedly turned "off". The power adapter for it is always hot. Lots of little devices like this are each costing $10-20 per year in electricity when not in use. It starts to add up. Multiply that across a nation, and that's a huge amount of wasted electricity, as well as pollution. Electricity companies aren't charities, but we're giving them more money for no reason than a lot of people give to charity. I'm sure if people turned their thermostats up in summer and down in winter, and dressed appropriately for the season, then bigger savings could be made than just unplugging unused devices. It would be nice if power sockets here in N. America came fitted with individual on/off switches, as is standard in the UK - these devices could continue to live plugged in to the wall, but with their consumption more easily controlled.

  32. Lost in the noise by 955301 · · Score: 1


    I'd venture that LED lighting in the home will become mainstream within the next 10 years. Given that lightbulbs make up about 33% of a home's power consumption & they will be going from 40-100 watts a piece to 2-6 watts, isn't the complaining about gadgets power draw a little ... hot headed?

    So long as our power generation is cyclical when it comes to CO2, it really doesn't matter what we spend the energy doing. Getting to solar, wind & biofuel generation is a real target, not making a phone recharger more intelligent.

    --
    You are checking your backups, aren't you?
    1. Re:Lost in the noise by Alioth · · Score: 1

      You don't need LED lighting - compact flourescents already exist (and are cheap) and have been around for over a decade. Flourescent is more efficient than semiconductor lighting.

    2. Re:Lost in the noise by Bishop · · Score: 1

      LED lighting has a very very long way to go to get anywhere near as efficient as replacing a 40w bulb with a 2w led. Current white LED technology is only about twice as efficient as incandescent and the colour is harsh.

      The current efficiency leader is compact florescent which consume one forth to one fifth the power of a similar incandescent.

    3. Re:Lost in the noise by julesh · · Score: 1

      Flourescent is more efficient than semiconductor lighting.

      Depends. Fluorescent is slightly more efficent than pure-white LEDs (which are based on an absorbtion-reemission system). But for coloured lighting, LEDs are substantially superior. Looks as though LEDs are going to start winning on the white scale in the next few years, too. You can now get 64 lumens/watt (compare with 60 typical from CF and 80 from traditional fluorescent) from a white LED, and the figures keep looking better. LEDs are also instant-on and have an even-longer lifetime than CF.

    4. Re:Lost in the noise by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Replace a 40 watt bulb with a 2 watt LED? What are you smoking?

      Also, does that 2 watts including converting to DC current....?

    5. Re:Lost in the noise by 955301 · · Score: 1

      I disagree. Compact flourescents are a little less than an order of magnitude improvement over incandescent. LED's are another digit down. Incandescent: 100, Flourescent: 16, LED: 6

      --
      You are checking your backups, aren't you?
    6. Re:Lost in the noise by 955301 · · Score: 1
      --
      You are checking your backups, aren't you?
    7. Re:Lost in the noise by Alioth · · Score: 1

      LEDs are only more efficient if you want to live in a house illuminated by either red, green or yellow light - but if you're happy with yellow light, then use low pressure sodium - it's still the most efficient lighting that exists. If you want white LEDs, they still haven't quite got the efficiency of CF - so at least for the time being, CF is the way to go for normal lighting. No doubt in a few years time, white LEDs will be able to beat CF for efficiency.

  33. Enough: show me the $ savings by lancejjj · · Score: 1

    I've dropped my electricity consumption by more than half. This chart on my blog shows my total KWHs consumed over five years.

    Sure, I replaced incandescent bulbs with CFLs when I moved in. So where is the savings? I optimized things like computers and then "insignificant, low-power" devices.

    I'd love to see this journalist's KWHs per year over the past 5 years. I've love to see how many KWH he consumes a month. Perhaps given his waste, a savings of 100 KWH/month is insignificant.

    Some people think that saving $200 a year in electricity is just about the same as saving nothing - because saving less than $20 per month is not worth thinking about. But for me, saving $200 a year is significant, and I don't mind if I have to do it in $17 increments over 12 months.

    (note: I have a natural gas dryer, hot water heater, furnace, and oven)

  34. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by walt-sjc · · Score: 1

    IP phones are just for geeks and serve no useful purpose over normal phones

    Ahh - there is nothing like the smell of a troll in the morning! That statement is just so ridiculous it's not worth responding to.

    My polycom 601 (a high-end business phone) only takes 6.21W. If your IP phone REALLY takes 20W, I would consider replacing it. That, or your meter is whacked.

  35. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by Hubertus_BigenD · · Score: 1

    you could try those new flourescent bulbs. They fit into any regular incandescent plug,the lighting looks like incandescent,and they use 25% as much power in the 60W(brightness) bulbs.

  36. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by CharlieG · · Score: 1

    where did you find the dimmable R-30s (and do they have r-40s) I've been looking to replace the 7 in this room and the ones in the living room

    --
    -- 73 de KG2V For the Children - RKBA! "You are what you do when it counts" - the Masso
  37. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by Frumious+Wombat · · Score: 1

    Next step is VMWare/Xen, and downsizing a couple of stray servers. This is when some sort of power-generation scheme for the home begins to look attractive. Thermoelectric materials near the stove/shower/fireplace would seem to be a good start, but probably not for anything larger than a CFL or two.

    --
    the more accurate the calculations became, the more the concepts tended to vanish into thin air. R. S. Mulliken
  38. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Not true. We use vonage and save a lot of money over regular landline services. Using their $25/month package we get unlimited local and national calls, plus free calls to the major European countries. Prior to this we needed a local carrier, a national carrier and then international calls on top of this. Our bills varied between $80-100 a month. We have a lot of family in Europe, and call them a lot, they also used to call us a lot. But with our vonage package we always call them back immediately and save them a not too small sum on their telephone bills too. For some reason vonage fail to mention the free European calls in their TV ads. I'm sure they'd pick up a lot of business if they did.

    We could probably find even cheaper IP telephony alternatives, but I don't feel the need. Connecting the vonage box to any phone socket in the house has all the phones working like a regular landline PSTN system.

  39. Computer PSU and monitor by bazorg · · Score: 1

    Not all my PCs have had this, but most PSUs I've used have 2 plugs in them: one to get power from the wall outlet, another to power the screen. If I were to connect the screen to some other source and keep more peripherals running off of the computer's PSU, that would probably shut them down as the computer goes to sleep, right? I'm thinking of speakers, printer, scanner, ie: all the stuff that doesn't do anything when the PC sleeps/is off.

    1. Re:Computer PSU and monitor by Bishop · · Score: 1

      Often that plug is not hooked up to a relay and does not shut off when the computer goes to sleep.

  40. Gadgets smadgets by Cadallin · · Score: 2, Insightful

    The Wall Street Journal is right (for once). The vast majority any house's electrical costs are Heating-Air Conditioning, and Water heating (baring designs using solar water heaters, and below ground air conditioning, I acknowledge that you exist, but let's face it, you're far less than 1% of the population). If electrical usage is rising, its the fault of the rise of McMansions, and generally larger housing in general. Most housing in the US is poorly designed and piss-poor insulated, with dozens of windows. All of which add hugely to HAC. Windows in particular are a huge elephant of electricity costs, especially the huge ones popular today, built with no consideration at all about where the sun is going to be at different seasons.

    1. Re:Gadgets smadgets by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      If electrical usage is rising, its the fault of the rise of McMansions, and generally larger housing in general. Most housing in the US is poorly designed and piss-poor insulated, with dozens of windows. All of which add hugely to HAC. Windows in particular are a huge elephant of electricity costs, especially the huge ones popular today, built with no consideration at all about where the sun is going to be at different seasons.

      AFAIK, new construction is the best opportunity to do things right and it is far Far FAR more economical than retrofits and rennovations (i.e., the best time to put in 12in wall insulation is during initial construction). Perhaps by "rise of McMansions, and generally larger housing" you mean to publicly vent your ignorance and prejudice. Lack of home entertainment and a satisfying home life would only lead to more travel away from home, more energy wasted. Also, the footprint of an old 1-story slab home need not be much different than your so-called "McMansion" (BTW, where do you come up with that shit? Do you read? I don't get the impression that you're educated...).

    2. Re:Gadgets smadgets by Cadallin · · Score: 1
      A great deal of ignorance is betrayed in your post. Of course new construction is the best time to do things right, BUT doing things right is often more expensive, and more difficult and time consuming. As a result, most Contractors will do what they can get away with, and many having their home built neither care, nor are aware they should.

      Regarding your ad hominem slur, I'll throw the claim of illiteracy back in you court, McMansion is a commonly used derogatory term, used describe a cheaply constructed dwelling, often very large, but especially built to give the impression of largeness. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McMansion

      As one can see in the linked article (which includes a lengthy list of references) the term is commonly used in Newspapers and other publications in the United States. So, do YOU read?

    3. Re:Gadgets smadgets by evilviper · · Score: 1
      The vast majority any house's electrical costs are Heating-Air Conditioning, and Water heating

      The vast majority of houses don't use electric water heaters to begin with, let alone whole-house electric heating.

      Natural gas, heating oil, etc., are more common.
      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  41. Just got a Watts up? Pro for Christmas... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It's a data-logging power meter. Looks pretty sweet, and hard data beats anything you hear on Slashdot.

    Anybody know if there's a Linux front-end for this puppy, or do I have to try to knock something together?

  42. Gadgets probably take a much lower % for most by floatingtrem · · Score: 1

    While it was a well written and reasoned article, he forgets that he spends a lot of time and money keeping the rest of his house low on the power usage. Most Americans still use their 2 decade old appliances and incandescent bulbs. Assuming that the average household's appliances are twice as power hungry that brings 30% towards TV and PC down below 18% of the bill. But I wouldn't be surprised if if most people's appliances are much more thirsty than that. And what about an electric range?

  43. Cost of SETI by MaGogue · · Score: 1

    In the article, author admits 11W additional power consumption for running SETI@Home.
    Wikipedia says there are 1.2 million active users, meaning 11W*1.200.000 = 14MW of ADDITIONAL power consumption for SETI@Home. Take into account that many people leave computers on JUST for SETI, and you could go up to 170MW (based on article power consumption). The real number is somewhere in between.
    Now, multiply that by 30*24h, and you get 9.5GWh/120GWh respectively. That is almost 1M$/12M$ PER MONTH. Huh?
    I hope the little green men will show themselves fast.

  44. Save the earth quote... by intnsred · · Score: 2, Insightful

    From the article theorizing that home electronic power usage seems to be getting worse:

    We could probably save the Earth a little more if we didn't do one to two loads of dishes a day, and if we didn't wash a dozen loads of laundry a week, but hey, that's modern life with small children. These are luxuries of modern living that I'm going to clutch onto until the ocean is lapping at the door.

    I wonder if his kids and grandkids will feel similarly about Dad's attitude?!

    Don't get me wrong, the guy seems to be doing more than most people. My point is that we are not "entitled" to lives of such "luxuries" (his word) as we kill off species and, indeed, the entire planet.

    We have a helluva lot of change to do -- either willingly or it'll be forced on us -- and most of that change needs to occur between our ears.

    1. Re:Save the earth quote... by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      and if we didn't wash a dozen loads of laundry a week

      It's actually *drying* that takes up the most energy. If you live in the suburbs (or even in a city house) and have a backyard, there's nothing wrong with having a clothesline when it isn't raining or freezing out. And, no, not all places are controlled by tyrannical neighborhood associations, especially if you put the line where it isn't visible from the street.

      -b.

  45. PC can run 24/7 with little power usen, but... by viking80 · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I have a 2.5GHz P4 with 1GB of memory and 4 HDD as well as two 21" CRT monitors.

    After 10 minutes in sleep mode it all consumes 5W.

    1. PC It runs 24/7, and consumes 43kWh or $6 a year.
    2. Clothes drier runs 6 hours a week at 4kW thats 416kWh or $60 a year

    3. PC when CPU doing actual work sucks 147W thats 1300kWh or $206 a year. When I discovered this, I immediately disabled the protein folding project my PC was participating in.

    --
    don't cut it off www.mgmbill.org
    1. Re:PC can run 24/7 with little power usen, but... by TeknoHog · · Score: 1

      3. PC when CPU doing actual work sucks 147W thats 1300kWh or $206 a year. When I discovered this, I immediately disabled the protein folding project my PC was participating in.

      I'm running a few BOINC applications, one of which includes Climateprediction.net. So a project that studies climate change is itself contributing to climate change :-/ However, it's been estimated as a worthwhile tradeoff. More generally, science always takes energy, time and money. I understand if you want to save your money, though.

      --
      Escher was the first MC and Giger invented the HR department.
  46. Heat swamps Light swamps Sound by Twinbee · · Score: 1

    Quite timely this, as I've just finished my own energy page, testing loads of appliances. If there's one thing I've found above all else though, it's this one thing:

    Heat swamps Light swamps Sound
    (here's the article I did on it)

    Anything which involves heat (washing machine, heater, cooker, microwave, kettle etc.) will eat an order of magnitude more power than anything involving light (monitor/TV, light bulb, lamp), which itself will eat up (by an order of magnitude) anything involving sound, which you practically get for free.

    That's okay though, because if you spend $3,500,000 on space-age aerogel insulation for your home, then practically no heat will be lost, and your energy bills will plummet.

    The other thing I learnt is that standby power consumption vastly varies from device to device (and even from manufacturer), which is why ideas such as the "One Watt Plan" are a Good Thing.

    --
    Why OpalCalc is the best Windows calc
  47. Re:Wastage here and there from small devices adds by LehiNephi · · Score: 1

    I live in Houston, where every building is air-conditioned to somewhere in the 68-70F region during the summer. Everyone thinks it's too cold, but by some Divine Decree, that's the temperature indoors. At home, we have our thermostat set at 78 during the summer. Assuming an average (over a 24-hour period) temperature of 88 degrees, that means we're saving roughly half of our A/C costs by using 78 instead of 68 or 70F. As temperatures fall, that number increases dramatically.

    What really hit me was when we took a trip to Utah in October. Outside temperature: about 40F. Inside temperature: close to 80F. If they set the temperature down to 68F, they would save some 25% of their heating costs.

    So Houston is colder in the summer than Utah is in the winter. Go figure.

    --
    Help find a cure for cancer. Join the [H]orde
  48. household low voltage bus by mrcdeckard · · Score: 2, Insightful

    i remember reading about a proposed dc bus in pop sci some years ago that really grabbed my imagination. basically, in your house, along with the 120 vac outlets, there would be connections for +/-12vdc and +5vdc -- the most common voltages for analog and digital electronics.

    the horribly stupid situation we've gotten ourselves into is that now we have a myriad transformers in our houses. i can think of five that are currently plugged in right now in this room. put your hand on one of these -- that heat is wasted electricity.

    the thing that should be investigated, i suppose is whether one big power supply is more efficient than a bazillion little ones . . .

    also, electronics required 9vdc, eg, will still need to convert the 12vdc, and newer cpu cores use 3.3vdc....

    the cool thing about an installed dc bus means that a small solar power system to drive it would become quite economical -- a solar cell and a battery, and you could power a good percentage of your electronic gadgetry.

    mr c

    --
    "Physics is like sex. Sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it." - R. Feynman
    1. Re:household low voltage bus by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      This is a bad idea because low-voltage DC has fairly high losses. It would probably cost you more in large-gauge copper than you would save over the lifetime of the house. It makes more sense to A) buy more convergence devices that eliminate gadgets and B) unplug devices when they are not in use. Also C) buy more efficient gadgets to begin with. It's sad that people won't spend a few more cents to get something more efficient, so that we need legislation to force all devices to be efficient.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    2. Re:household low voltage bus by Wordplay · · Score: 1

      Would it help if standard house circuitry came with their own 12vdc and 5vdc transformers? That way, you could have one relatively efficient large-spec transformer driving everything in the house, vs. a bunch of cheap small ones. Or would the loss from the inside wiring still cancel any gain?

    3. Re:household low voltage bus by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      The problem is that no power travels well at low voltages, which is why low-voltage power distribution systems typically use huge wire, or a gigantic copper bus bar, or some other amperage-handling tactic. AC actually doesn't do well at low voltages either - but as the voltage increases, the value of using AC increases as well (it's not a linear progression.) The difference is big enough that a lot of devices - not those using resistive loads but things with switching power supplies like computers - will actually be as much as 5% more efficient if you just switch from 110VAC to 220VAC.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    4. Re:household low voltage bus by Big_Breaker · · Score: 1

      The "secret" is to create the low voltage by pulse width modulating (or just pulsing) a much higher one. The device just needs a capacitor to smooth out the pulses. Have 120V DC and need 12V DC? Just pulse with a 10% duty cycle. Anyhow - that was my idea - it seems too simple for me to be the only one to have thought it.

    5. Re:household low voltage bus by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Uh yeah, that's what a voltage regulator does. Normally you've got a capacitor on the input to smooth it out, and a capacitor on the output to handle pulling power from; in the middle is a voltage regulator that watches the output voltage and pulses the input cap over to the output cap to fill it. The problem is that without a regulator your cap must be perfectly sized to match your input voltage and your load - both of which fluctuate. Thus what you are suggesting is impossible. Oh, if your device is tolerant enough it may work... but you will NOT be providing it a steady voltage.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
  49. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
    They fit into any regular incandescent plug,the lighting looks like incandescent,and they use 25% as much power in the 60W(brightness) bulbs.


    My apartment has some narrow light fixtures from the 30s or 40s. Even the "small" CFL lights Just Don't Fit. It's not a matter of diameter so much as of length. If someone can find me a short CFL, I'd be thrilled.


    -b.

  50. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by NerveGas · · Score: 2, Insightful

    It's not just size. 60 years ago, your entire electrical appliance list probably consisted of a toaster, a television, a radio, and a clothes iron. You didn't have three televisions, thee DVD players, two TIVOs, two (or more) computers, two external hard drives, a home theater receiver, four cell phone chargers, a laptop charger, three CD players, a breadmaker, baby monitors, three hair curlers, two hair dryers, an air conditioner, and about a hundred other things.

    The NEC has constantly revised the electrical loads to provide more and more outlets precisely because people use more and more electrical devices over time. It's just how things go.

    On an unrelated note, I've tried using CFLs in my house for about four years. I still can't find a model where the color doesn't make me want to vomit.

    --
    Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
  51. Time to standarize power bricks by spectro · · Score: 1

    It would be a good idea to have government standardize power bricks, make them all provide same voltage and use same plug. This way we can easily replace them or buy a big brick to power all the little gadgets. It would be nice to have your house and office wired with "gadget plugs" so you don't have to carry all these damn bricks everywhere.

    --
    HTML is obsolete. It's time for a new, simpler and richer markup language.
    1. Re:Time to standarize power bricks by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      make them all provide same voltage and use same plug.

      That'd be bloody silly, after all, different circuits need different voltages to work.

    2. Re:Time to standarize power bricks by JustNiz · · Score: 1

      I like the idea of a standardized low power supply and think it could be done.

      Nearly every powerblock I've ever had is either 12 volts or 6. Very rarely (e.g. on my printer and laptop) they are higher than 12v.

      If we standardized on 2 power supplies, say 48v and 12v and a standard (different) connector on each, all items could simply chose which voltage to use as a base by providing the appropriate connector, and then internally use a small voltage regulator to step down from the base voltage to the voltage it actually requires.

    3. Re:Time to standarize power bricks by b0s0z0ku · · Score: 1
      Nearly every powerblock I've ever had is either 12 volts or 6. Very rarely (e.g. on my printer and laptop) they are higher than 12v.


      Actually, Thinkpad and other laptop supplies seem to be in the 16-19V range. Remember that you need a higher voltage than the battery's output to reliably charge the battery. So you'd need 48V or a step-up switching power supply from 12V and you'd have to essentially carry the power supply in the laptop.


      Also there's a whole bunch of stuff operating at 3 or 4.5VDC that's powered by 1.5V cells with optional AC power. CD players, ipods, digital cameras and the like. Unless the regulator is a more expensive switching type, stepping down from 12VDC will make the device less efficient, larger, and create heat inside of it.


      -b.

  52. Re:Wastage here and there from small devices adds by Alioth · · Score: 1

    The big problem in North America is the sheer number of things like apartments with air conditioning -- but NO timer. The typical person in the summer goes to work, and leaves the AC on when no one's at home. This wastes tremendous amounts of power. But people just forget to turn it off when they go. An easy to use timer would fix this problem.

    I always tried to remember to turn off my AC. When I left the apartment, the power company mistakenly sent me a bill some time after I left - and I noticed the next person to live in the apartment was using *three times* the electricity that I did - presumably because they left the AC on all day (The power company, First Choice power, previously Texas-New Mexico Power put nice little graphs on the bill so it was really obvious).

  53. Not much reactive power... by fish8719 · · Score: 1

    First, these are Volt-Amps, not necessarily Watts. National Grid is going to charge you for Watts. The "Watts=VoltsxAmps" formula only works for 100% resistive loads or DC. On AC, you have to adjust for reactive power.

    With the (notable) exception of the washing machine, those appliances should be using very little reactive power. They're converting AC to DC straightaway, which will give you a nearly unity power factor. Assuming that the washing machine is lagging the current by 30 deg or so (SWAG), you're talking about 87% or so of its measured Volt-Amps being "real."

    The computer's switching power supply may inject a few odd harmonics, but I doubt they're very large.

    1. Re:Not much reactive power... by Phil+Karn · · Score: 1
      Incorrect. Most electronic power supplies, at least those sold in the USA, have terrible power factors. This includes the computers and compact fluorescents that now dominate many office environments. While they are not inductive loads, their current waveforms are highly distorted. The typical switching power supply that directly rectifies and filters the AC input has a power factor of 0.59. Since PF = Watts/VA, just multiplying volts times amps gives a power figure that's 70% larger than the real value.

      These power supplies inject so much harmonic power back into the line that they've actually started fires in older commercial buildings. Until recently, the code allowed the neutral in 3-phase 4-wire wye branch circuits to be smaller than the phase conductors. This was okay before compact fluorescents and personal computers, but their harmonic currents add in the neutrals of such circuits and can overload it.

      I've heard that the European Union, unlike the US, mandates power factor correction for electronic power supplies. Unfortunately those devices haven't made it to the US in large quantities despite a global market.

    2. Re:Not much reactive power... by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      Most electronic power supplies, at least those sold in the USA, have terrible power factors.

      European laws require devices to have power factor correction circuits, so this is less of a problem in the EU. (It's slightly crazy to sell something as "energy saving" if it has a bad power factor doncha think?).

    3. Re:Not much reactive power... by Phil+Karn · · Score: 1
      Power-factor-corrected power supplies are actually slightly less efficient than uncorrected supplies. However, those small losses are worth it to avoid the losses and other problems caused by harmonic currents flowing in the grid.

      Large industrial users are charged extra for poor power factor, but residential users are not. So without EU-style regulations, there hasn't been much of a market draw in the US for PF-corrected supplies.

  54. Sockets fitted with switches... by Animaether · · Score: 1

    I've replaced all the sockets in my place with ones that have switches. Rather than unplug the phone charger, replug it, etc. I just flick the switch. This is much more convenient than having to muck about with the chord all the time.

    My entertainment 'center' (TV, radio, two laptops (one acting as a PVR), cable modem, router) all go into a single extension cord that also has a switch. This saves having a large socket block, makes it easy to turn all devices on/off with one switch, and keeps me from having to walk over to the socket to flick the switch there.

    There's numerous advantages - from power savings, to peace of mind when going out for a while. No worrying about my TV blowing up, etc. When going on vacation, I just flick the mains switches at the meter - same effect.

    The only disadvantage I had found is with the clocks on everything. They keep resetting and either blink 00:00 or end up being some oddball hour. I taped them off. I suppose some might find the switches on the socket plates ugly - haven't heard any comment on them.

    In the past, though, I couldn't have done this. TVs, radios, VCRs would not have remembered their settings, and I would have had to re-program them. What a pain when coming back from vacation that was.

    For the curious: my consumption is currently at 23% of average for my area (couple of house blocks), the investment has already paid off.

  55. Cost of electricity by wwb · · Score: 1
    Lots of people don't seem to realize how much the cost of electricity varies from state to state in the U.S. Here in Massachusetts, I'm paying nearly 20 cents a kilowatthour. You can see the differences by state in this table. This doesn't even account for regional differences: the town of Wellesley has their own power plant and a supply deal, and their residents pay half what neighboring towns pay. So if you're reading this in Idaho and wondering what the fuss is about, imagine your electric bill three times higher!


    And as others have pointed out, it's lighting and HVAC that make all the difference. Think of it this way: at my 20 cents, a 100-watt bulb on for ten hours a day costs about $6 a month. That's one bulb. In a big house, you might have 75 or more bulbs. And that's just for lighting. Switch to compact flourescent; I even like the light quality better now.

    1. Re:Cost of electricity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "And as others have pointed out, it's lighting and HVAC that make all the difference. Think of it this way: at my 20 cents, a 100-watt bulb on for ten hours a day costs about $6 a month. That's one bulb. In a big house, you might have 75 or more bulbs. And that's just for lighting. Switch to compact flourescent; I even like the light quality better now."

      One must be an American, to have those 75 bulbs on for ten hours a day. If you live alone, you should easily be able to do with four of them on at a time. I currently (after sunset) have less than 100W of light switched on. It lights my living room fine.

    2. Re:Cost of electricity by Jeff1946 · · Score: 1

      Yeah, glad I live in Virginia where our power is a combination of nuclear and coal. Pretty obvious from the data why google and yahoo are building server farms in Oregon along the Columbia River. I believe the counties where they are being built get first crack at the hydroelectric power plants on the Columbia River so the power there may be even cheaper still.

    3. Re:Cost of electricity by innocent_white_lamb · · Score: 1

      You seem use a lot of power for lighting for one person, especially if you use CFL bulbs to do it.
       
      I just did some figuring here. I live in a good-sized commercial building (my business and my home are both here) and I have five 7-watt CFL bulbs that are on 24/7 as night lights in my basement, kitchen and living room. I have three 13-watt CFL bulbs and one regular 20-watt fluorescent bulb that are on overnight as outside security lights and a night light in my business lobby. I have another 7-watt bulb for my computer desk and my wife has one for her computer desk that we turn on when we are on our computers (which, frankly, is most of the time that we are here).
       
      So that's a total of 108 watts at night when we are both here and that includes night lighting and security lighting for my business premises as well.

      --
      If you're a zombie and you know it, bite your friend!
  56. Peak fixes this all by jbaltz · · Score: 1

    After Peak oil hits in 2008, without any real alternatives, we'll either not be using our devices much, or we'll be looking at them through the haze of many more coal-fired power plants.

    --
    I am the Lorvax, I speak for the machines.
    1. Re:Peak fixes this all by Beyond_GoodandEvil · · Score: 1

      After Peak oil hits in 2008, without any real alternatives, we'll either not be using our devices much, or we'll be looking at them through the haze of many more coal-fired power plants.
      A question, is the same peak oil that was supposed to arrive in the 1990's after the great ice age predicted in the 1970's?

      --
      I laughed at the weak who considered themselves good because they lacked claws.
    2. Re:Peak fixes this all by jbaltz · · Score: 1

      Yup. This is the global peak, as opposed to US Peak oil production (in the 1970s) which everyone agreed happened.

      It doesn't mean "ice age", however. But do think a bit about the economics of it all: there's now increased global demand for oil, and a decline in the rate of production, no new large discoveries...

      Hell, just go to a colocation center and ask them about electricity & cooling costs. They're skyrocketing, and will only continue to do so.

      Electricity will become a lot more expensive soon.

      --
      I am the Lorvax, I speak for the machines.
    3. Re:Peak fixes this all by EXrider · · Score: 1
      no new large discoveries...


      You mean like this? Or these?

      Sorry, I just don't think the supply/demand issue is really as bad as big oil makes it out to be. They've got us by the balls and they like it that way.
      --
      grep -iw skynet /etc/services
    4. Re:Peak fixes this all by jbaltz · · Score: 1
      You mean like this? Or these?

      Remind me again, how large those finds are compared to, say, Ghawar?

      There's Alberta Tar Sands/CANROY too.

      Peak is still upon us. Demand can only increase. Think now: we've already got 40% of the world's concrete going to China. They need...you got it!...OIL to make that happen.

      Demand is not going down. Discoveries are not going up faster than demand.
      --
      I am the Lorvax, I speak for the machines.
    5. Re:Peak fixes this all by /dev/trash · · Score: 1

      Damn, here I thought Peak Oil was gonna hit in 2007 so that the Dems win the Presidency easily.

  57. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I saw a nearly $30 a month drop in my electric bill switching the entire house to CFL.

    Canadian Football League ?

  58. I don't trust statistics in the news anymore by dbowersock · · Score: 1

    The question I have is whether the statistics take into a account the proliferation of gadgets. I don't think that new electronics consume anymore power than older electronics. As many people have already stated, they tend to be more efficient. However, if the avereage household, for example, has gone from 1 TV to 3, then obviously the consumption by electronics go up. Unless the efficiency goes up proportionally. While components are generally more efficient now than in the past, the effieciency rate probably does not equal the growth rate.

  59. All homes should have ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    ... easy to read and understand power readings of how much they are using. It would also be nice if every device LCD display of how much power it was consuming.

    I think the fact that consumers are divorced from the knowledge and consequences besides simply the more abstract monetary consequences may be a important factor in wasted power.

  60. The tech exists, studios and CE killed it by alexhmit01 · · Score: 2, Interesting

    With the move to HD, one of the proposed solutions was HAVi over Firewire. Basically, each device would have a firewire port (well, two so you daisy chain), you run the daisy chain between the devices, and they provide their interface via Java.

    The studios HATED it, because it meant their content was moving around the network digitally (in MPEG-2), which was the point. Want to record something to D-VHS or AVHDD, just choose to record it. The devices tell everyone that they record. No more PVR, or if you got a PVR, it's just software, and can dump to an AVHDD system. The whole thing was encrypted for DRM purposes, but the studios hated it. They loved Component/DVI because nobody could make a direct digital copy (too much space needed, would need to compress). The consumer electronics companies hated it, because it meant you'd have a single MPEG-2 decoder in your television (or receiver, then run Component/DVI to the monitor which would have no knowledge), and everyone else made cheap stuff. There is no room for a "better" DVD player if all the DVD player does is read the MPEG-2 stream and send it over firewire.

    So instead, we are in a digital domain, we have lots of codecs, and everyone needs to do D/A conversions (to support components). The problems people have with HDMI are short-term (hopefully), but the CE companies know that if all they do is serve the bits off the disc, and don't do anything to make the picture better (quality digital/analog conversions mattering in DVD/component land, but not in DVD/HDMI land), there is no room for higher end models. Moving digital bits around is unimpressive, and there are only two parts of the system that convert to "analog," the receiver (for audio to go out to speakers), and the monitor... and now most of the high end monitors are "digital" devices, so no D/A to upgrade, but how they process the signal matters, because eventually YOU are looking at the analog (light wave) output of your digital set.

    Part of the reason that we're seeing a massive drop in CE prices is that there is a decreasing benefit to quality systems. If you look at projectors, Panasonic is playing with smoothing technologies to gain an edge, because the convention edge is somewhat neutralized when digital data comes in and then powers an LCD (or DLP) system. Regarding the devices talking, Firewire was the correct technology. What's PATHETIC is that we carry SO MUCH data on the HDMI cable (up to 1080p video, up to 8 channels of 24-bit audio), but no control information. If you want automation, you're stuck with IR blasters (retarded), macro'ing remotes (slow and annoying), or a central automation control that runs RS-232 cables for serial control. The other option is a DC "trigger" where we have the fancy, high tech solution of sending a small amount of energy from device A to B, and B does "something."

    On the plus side with HDMI, and cheaper analog to digital converters, we're seeing more receivers that can "upconvert" old RCA Video, S-Video, and Component signals into digital easily. While videophiles may not want their receiver doing video conversion (on the believe that the monitor should... and high end display devices probably do a better job of handling the signal), we're AT LEAST at the point that if you set the receiver to the right input, the "television" is truly a monitor only needing one input, and the trigger to turn it on and off can work. If you want to avoid the receiver based solution, there are plenty of component video switchers (that also switch digital audio, coax or toslink), that autosense what device is on. My dad used to use a receiver with multiple sourcing because he could record a DVD to audio cassette for the car, while running a VCR through the system for the television/stereo, but I don't know of anyone that does that any more, few people convert to analog sources, and they normally do their copying on the computer, not in the AV cabinet with the asinine inter

    1. Re:The tech exists, studios and CE killed it by Blakey+Rat · · Score: 1

      Well, I'm not talking about passing video over any cable, I'm just talking about the existing devices talking to each other. If the Firewire people were content with just having the DVD Player give the TV instructions, instead of actually transmitting video (over the Firewire cable), it probably would be more accepted. But oh well.

    2. Re:The tech exists, studios and CE killed it by evilviper · · Score: 1
      The studios HATED it, because it meant their content was moving around the network digitally (in MPEG-2), which was the point.

      It would absolutely suck if your highdef DVD player had to reencode your h.264 video to MPEG-2 in realtime. It would be both much more expensive, as well as negatively impacting video quality.

      Ditto for using your HDTV as a computer monitor.

      I do agree that there should be a standard for communicating commands from device to device.
      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  61. Say's Law by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative
    Say's Law. This addresses, to a degree, the assertion that "The more we have of something, the more we use." This is not without detractors:

    From a modern macroeconomic viewpoint Say's Law is subject to dispute. John Maynard Keynes and many other critics of Say's Law have paraphrased it as saying that "supply creates its own demand". Under this definition, once a producer has created a supply of a product, consumers will inevitably start to demand it. This interpretation allowed for Keynes to introduce his alternative perspective that "demand creates its own supply" (up to, but not beyond, full employment). Some call this "Keynes' law".

    However, these detractors, at the very least, have an argument.

  62. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by cybermage · · Score: 1

    (Or, if you're in the northeast US, typically just lamps, although I couldn't tell you why that is...)

    Having grown up in the northeast, I'll take a shot at this one. Many homes and apartment buildings here are relatively old. As such, many are built using plaster and lathe instead of sheetrock to cover walls. With this type of construction, adding outlets along the baseboard is a relatively simple operation while adding light fixtures in the middle of a ceiling borders on the impossible without replacing the plaster (or molded tin!). I think that even as newer construction came along, the infrastructure (e.g., Lamp Stores) was geared toward lamps over fixtures and availability dictated style.

  63. Why the debate? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I do not understand on all the debates about energy conservation. I agree that savings on electricity bills is good but shouldn't we worry about making electricity production possible on a larger scale and cheaper. After all http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kardashev_scale

  64. Check the menus to be sure... by raygundan · · Score: 1

    I got an LCD recently, too, and thought it was like yours. Turns out there's an option buried in the onscreen menus that allows you to choose between a 14w instant-on standby and a half-watt standby with a longer startup time.

    It's still on faster than my old CRT, so I'm quite happy to use the low-power standby mode.

    Mine's one of those cheapo Westinghouse units, so your mileage may vary.

  65. Both right? by tuxlove · · Score: 1

    Is it possible that both are correct? I have measured everything in my house (that has a standard plug) except for my fridge. I know it's a hog, no point in measuring. I have 5 computers, at least 2 of which are always running. I have a dozen small gadgets with wall warts to power them. And I have several UPSes, one of which is a power conditioner. My conclusion is that most of these devices are very power efficient, mostly consuming only several watts each. The computers are like running a lightbulb. Apart, none of these things sucks much power at all, especially compared to the fridge or the clothes dryer. But once you add them all up, the sheer number of googaws in the house sum up to a significant consumption of power. Granted, I have much more crap than your average person, but I think this summation effect may have some significance for your average person these days, if to a lesser extent.

  66. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by LunaticTippy · · Score: 1

    That might be a good candidate for LEDs.

    --
    Man, you really need that seminar!
  67. Care to wager on that? by brokeninside · · Score: 1

    I'll bet you $100 that a car at idle while sitting in the driver produces CO2.

  68. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by csnydermvpsoft · · Score: 1

    1000bulbs.com has a good selection of CFLs, including dimmable ones.

  69. Sorry, my fault i put in an 8-track by hurfy · · Score: 1

    No idea on the power useage here, but the east side of OR or WA really can't be called mild. Still snow left on ground from last week :( Majority do live on the west side, but maybe we make up for the power use on the other side ;) Or maybe Bill Gates is messing up our average ;p

    You are probably right, power under $.10 Kwh (.078 in Vancouver!) soo we don't pay as much as much attention to use as others.

    Of course i am making up for several people on the other side with a vintage stereo sucking up 1000 watts or so plus my other toys ;)

    1. Re:Sorry, my fault i put in an 8-track by captainjaroslav · · Score: 1

      Yeah, I probably should have qualified. I lived in the PNW for 26 years, but all of them west of the Cascades. Still, I think the population distribution is so heavily skewed that any "per capita" statistic probably reflects the behavior of the west-of-the-Cascades population. I want to live somewhere where so many people have cool vintage stereo equipment that it actually has a measurable impact on average power consumption statistics! THAT would be a cool town.

      --
      I'm just sayin'.
  70. Wasn't this suposed to decrease over time? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    Looks like there is no top value for the comsuption of home gadgets.

    I can understand that the processing power is now much higher than some years ago, but still, looks like nobody really cares much about the power demands of these because what really sells are the meaner and faster machines.

    20 years ago you could get a Hewlett Packard HP-11C calculator that lasted (yes, it's true) 10-15 YEARS with a set of 3 cell sized batteries.
    Still some 10 years ago you could get an HP-200LX, a complete MS-DOS portable system, that lasted easily 1 month on 2AA batteries (I'm talking about a small laptop computer here).

    For more information try http://www.hpmuseum.org/

    It's difficult to find these ones for sale, but try here for Europe http://www.rpncalcs.com/

    1. Re:Wasn't this suposed to decrease over time? by GigsVT · · Score: 1

      You can get a $10 scientific calculator that lasts 10-15 YEARS on a single cheap lithium cell inside it. You act like stuff hasn't improved, it has.

      --
      I've had enough abrasive sigs. Kittens are cute and fuzzy.
  71. Standby gadget / power supply powerstrips? by AltaMannen · · Score: 1

    Has anyone found a powerstrip with individual power switches for each outlet? Ideally one that you can keep in plain sight so that you don't have to reach below something to switch things off? The prongs on power supplies are surprisingly weak so I don't want to pull them out every time I don't use them but every power strip I use have only one switch for all the outlets, not one per power supply (that I want to disable when not in use)

    1. Re:Standby gadget / power supply powerstrips? by mfarver · · Score: 1

      Two ideas:

      1. A lot of home stores carry nifty little cubes that plug into a single outlet, and have a single plug and switch on them. Buy however many you need.

      2. Learn how to wire outlets yourself. Any basic web tutorial or "home electrical wiring 101" book will give you the basics. Go to your local home store and buy a couple of lightswitches and receptacles (about $.50 each) and some metal or plastic junction boxes. For a little bit more money you can find ones that have one switch and one outlet together. Wire them up to each other, and a short cord to the wall (you can buy plugs, but its usually cheaper to hack the computer end off of a standard power cord. --make sure you know what you're doing, screwing up happens to be an excellent way to burn your house down.

    2. Re:Standby gadget / power supply powerstrips? by innocent_white_lamb · · Score: 1

      I used to see power switch banks that sat under your monitor with several (half-dozen or so) rocker switches on the front labelled "monitor" "computer" "printer" and so on. I don't see any reason why you couldn't plug anything else into it, though.
       
      I think the most common ones were Radio Shack branded -- have you checked there?

      --
      If you're a zombie and you know it, bite your friend!
  72. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Here's one source:

    http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?catg= 535&item=340464&prDeTab=2#A

    $28 (USD) for a 3-pack is not such a bad price. The only thing I haven't found is the color temperature of these bulbs. I already have some CFLs that are 2700K and some that are 3000K. I find the 2700K to look a bit dim while the 3000K look brighter. (I am talking about perception, not actual light output)

    What I really want are 3000K dimmable reflector (R30, R40, PAR38, BR30, etc.) CFLs for a reasonable price. In the mean time, I often use a CFL in a floor lamp instead of the recessed lights in the living room.

  73. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by Lord+Ender · · Score: 1

    Yeah! Now your home the flickery, spotty-spectrum lighting of an industrial warehouse! That must feel warm and comforting.

    Screw CFL. Give me full-spectrum lighting. It costs more. It uses more power. It doesn't last as long. And it is still much much better than CFL.

    --
    A slashdotter who didn't build his own computer is like a Jedi who didn't build his own lightsaber.
  74. Re:Wastage here and there from small devices adds by julesh · · Score: 1

    It would be nice if power sockets here in N. America came fitted with individual on/off switches, as is standard in the UK - these devices could continue to live plugged in to the wall, but with their consumption more easily controlled.

    Unfortunately the design of most power adapters means you can't reach the switch while they're plugged in anyway.

  75. CFL's suspicious growth by red_flea · · Score: 1
    I kind of wonder if the recent growth of CFL's has been because LED's are so close to being accepted themselves. It's like GE, Philips and other light manufacturers are deliberately pushing an obsolete technology so they can profit from the upgrade to CFL now and then profit again a few years later for the upgrade to LED.

    CFL's use a fraction of the power of their incandescent counterparts. LED's use a fraction of the power of CFL's, and LED's are instant on. Is anyone out there using LED "bulbs" and can report on their friendliness/where to get them?

    1. Re:CFL's suspicious growth by GigsVT · · Score: 1

      LEDs are way less efficient than CFL. LEDs only recently surpassed incandescent in efficiency! It's not a done deal that LEDs will ever be more efficient than CFL, though it could happen some day.

      You make it sound like LEDs are already a better solution. They aren't.

      --
      I've had enough abrasive sigs. Kittens are cute and fuzzy.
  76. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by Viol8 · · Score: 1

    >That statement is just so ridiculous it's not worth responding to.

    Meaning you can't think of a response but you wanted to karma whore anyway.

  77. It's about money by heroine · · Score: 1

    The campaigns for energy waste from electronics are about the same thing global warming is. It's about how much money you can make off of the dumbest consumers in the world, mainly the Americans, who will pay any tax with the word "environment" in it. New taxes on electronics that use over X watts are already a done deal.

  78. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by walt-sjc · · Score: 1

    No, It means that your statement was so insanely stupid that there is no point wasting my time trying to educate you, and is why you were moderated down. Maybe some day you will figure it out, but I doubt it.

  79. Re:Wastage here and there from small devices adds by Malc · · Score: 1

    I've been in the UK for the last four weeks. I can't say that I've had a problem with reaching any of the power switches in the sockets. Maybe it's the design of the standard UK that forces things like power bars to be laid-out better. Even the huge great wall-wart (one of the biggest I've seen for a while) for the Linksys WAG54G router I'm using to access this web site still leaves the switch 90% exposed.

    With power bars, it's a matter of putting them in a position where you can reach them, and with UK plugs at least, it's easy to label them too (they generally have a big flat surface with the cable coming out the bottom parallel to the wall, unlike the standard 2-/3-prong N.American plugs). I think when I get back to Canada, I will make more of an effort to organise the powerbars around my computers so that things that need to remain on are connected to different bars to the ones that can be turned off... then I can turn things off in batches.

  80. Re:Wastage here and there from small devices adds by Malc · · Score: 1

    I went to Germany in the summer for the World Cup. It was bloody hot. You adapt and get used to it though. When I got back to N. America, I found everywhere too bloody cold! I was California for work in late July, and found I had to set the thermostat in the hotel room to 78-80 or I'd be too cold at night time. This from the person who normally can't sleep if it's too warm. To be honest, I think it's healthier too to experience seasonal temperature differences - that's what we've evolved to be used to. All this sterilising nature and making things the same all year around can't be good physically or mentally.

  81. DUPE by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Appliances Hog More Energy Than High-Tech Gadgets

    The message from the editors of Slashdot is clear:
    "Don't read Slashdot. Not even the editors do."

  82. Conducting plastic? by benhocking · · Score: 1
    If that leaves you with some question as to whether you will have an operable earth ground when the ground prong is plastic, you are not qualified to plug appliances into the wall. Please contact a trained professional.

    I guess you haven't heard of conducting plastic. :D

    --
    Ben Hocking
    Need a professional organizer?
    1. Re:Conducting plastic? by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Heh heh, conducting plastic isn't quite here yet though. It does exist, but it's not a good solution for any application which may demand high current... like a ground :)

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
  83. Or: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Here's an idea:

    Make a UPS that has several 120VAC outlets as normal, but also mini-plugs that put out low-voltage DC (5V, 12V, 9V, just pick one). Then have it power them up only when something is plugged in.

    Wouldn't it save some energy to have all the conversion done at one place, and all to the same DC voltage?

  84. Dont clocks use batteries? by cheekyboy · · Score: 1

    Last time i checked , my clock uses 1 cell AA , it lasts >8 months. Its rechargable in under 2 hrs.

    Now we can have better designed electronics for instant ON, that doesnt use grid power, i mean its really simple but no damn
    electronic engineer will make it, why not!?>!?

    1. use a rechargable small cell that recharges when running normally
    2. when in standby mode, use a relay to CUT all power, and run off the battery
    3. have an optional smart deep sleep mode that will do a timed hard sleep between 2am to 6am, is that so hard to make an option?
    4. Like wise, make a sleep during work time option, 8am to 5pm mode. One damn little 3 switch for sleep1/none/sleep2.

    Companies should realise that sure for one person, saving 3W * 24hrs * 365days = $2.50 a year, but multiplied by millions of unit sales
    that equals to a lot of carbon emissions.

    Maybe govts should give companies a tax credit if their appliance use ZERO power during standby, not 500mw, but zero. Its not hard
    to put in a $3 rechargable cell in. Give easy external replacement like a remote control, but at the front of a machine and bingo.

    One more grip, those cheap chineese dvd players/setop boxes, I really hate how when you go into standby mode, they 'forget' their current channel/video input/settings
    selections. So when you turn on again they have to be re-set. Because of this most people now dont turn those machines off ever. Stupid chineese engineers, grrrr. Dont you
    learn from your competition?

    --
    Liberty freedom are no1, not dicks in suits.
  85. Apples and Kumquats by russotto · · Score: 1

    He excludes air conditioning from his measure. He uses expensive CF light bulbs everywhere. He has a new high-efficiency furnace fan motor and doesn't use electricity for heat or hot water.

    And he compares all this high-efficiency goodness to a run-of-the-mill PC with apparently no power saving features and two (count 'em, TWO) 19" CRT monitors.

    So, apparently, if you exclude HVAC and hot water, get a new refrigerator, and make heroic efforts to keep down lighting costs, electronics which you make no attempt to optimize for power usage end up being a large part of the total. Surprise, surprise, surprise.

  86. True enough by benhocking · · Score: 1

    Although I still wonder why they'd even make a plastic "ground" prong. Especially considering that there has been some hype about conducting plastic, eventually someone could legitimately get confused.

    "What, grandpa? There used to be a time when everyone just assumed plastic wouldn't conduct?"

    As for me, even if I have a metal ground, if it's important to me that a device be grounded, I'll verify that it is grounded first. (Well, at least that the outlet's ground is grounded. In older buildings, this is not always true, even though I believe it is legally required.)

    --
    Ben Hocking
    Need a professional organizer?
    1. Re:True enough by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

      Although I still wonder why they'd even make a plastic "ground" prong.

      Cost, I imagine. It's cheaper to mould a plastic pin onto the plug rather than have a metal pin which has been left unconnected. British plugs require a pin for "earth", even if it isn't connected, since the earth pin opens the shutters on the live/neutral connections.

      I've seen a lot of American posts claiming that the shutters are a very bad idea since they always get stuck and result in the dangerous action of poking something into the socket to open them manually. I'd have to say that this is a completely bogus argument - the shutters are a very good idea to keep the live pin from being exposed and I've never had any problem with them becoming stuck (I've lived in the UK my whole life). The only time I've poked anything into the earth connection to open the shutters is when plugging european plugs into UK sockets (they do fit, but have no earth pin and you probably shouldn't draw large currents since they are round pins rather than rectangular).

  87. Bloody unlikely by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    CFLs have been around for several decades. For much of the time they were expensive, and light quality was quite noticeably different -- enough so to be annoying to many people -- than incandescent light. Add a few additional quirks such as size (CFLs tended to be larger than similar incandescent fixtures and wouldn't fit some lamps), and toxins (principally mercury) leading to a disposal problem, and you had some pretty strong disincentives.

    What's happened with a few decades is that CFLs are now small, inexpensive, high-quality light (yes, you can still sense a difference, but often only if you look closely). LEDs are just starting to hit mainstream, and while I'm finding that high-output LEDs make great flashlights and bike lights (long life, low draw, reasonably high output), they aren't yet practical for home lighting beyond some accent use. They are tiny and draw minuscule power, so you're likely to see accent/decorator use. But total output, and high-output use remains expensive. Light temperature is also considerably harsher than incandescent or CFL. I'd say mainstream use remains a decade or more off.

    If you want to gauge that, keep an eye out for industrial / commercial use. Companies with bottom-line interests, and purchasing agents who don't have to deal with the light quality, are more prone to be early adopters. Similar trend noted in CFLs.

  88. Does that count industrial use? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The Pacific Northwest benefits from huge hydro facilities (BPA, the Bonneville Power Administration), and location of some very high-electrical consumption industries, notably aluminum smelting (bauxite is reduced to aluminum oxide which is electrically seperated into aluminum and other byproducts). A naive calculation based on population and energy generation/consumption of Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Montana would grossly overstate household electrical usage.

  89. What idiot designed those IR codes? by cheekyboy · · Score: 1

    I cannot believe that no one has designed a remote control code for true POWER ON, POWER OFF signals, rather than a POWER FLIP signal.

    Or they could have at least designed damn hifi stuff to power cycle on a short press, but turn ON, if pressed > 1500ms

    Simple design, great results. Now dont get me started on the R-Tard designed chinese brand stuff, tiny play buttons, grrrr dont
    you guys there know how to design? At least copy Sonys remotes for gods sake. Stop making fricking small play buttons. Oh and
    stop calling Screen Ratio Change buttons ARC, when you have room to put text "RATIO" there, as you already have buttons called "SOUND" which
    swap between diff modes. http://www.useit.com/alertbox/20040607.html

    --
    Liberty freedom are no1, not dicks in suits.
    1. Re:What idiot designed those IR codes? by Suidae · · Score: 1

      I cannot believe that no one has designed a remote control code for true POWER ON, POWER OFF signals, rather than a POWER FLIP signal.

      Well, some code sets do actually have seperate ON and OFF codes as well as a power toggle. The problem is that the remotes only have one power button and the remote doesn't know if the device is on or off. I guess seperate ON and OFF buttons are too confusing.

      But yeah, there is an amazing amount of stupidity in AV equipment. I think it must be deliberate.

  90. CFLs are good by cheekyboy · · Score: 1

    My CFLs never flicker, they are warm coloured and look like normal lights.

    I say screw edison/ge bulbs. Its time they should be put to death.

    Next stage is perhaps 6-12 white LEDs, which dont have a good life time as CFL btw, and on a LUX/Watt level are not as good.

    --
    Liberty freedom are no1, not dicks in suits.
  91. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by Suidae · · Score: 1

    Are you using dimmable CF bulbs?

    Are you dimming them with a triac-based (chopper) circuit or with a variac (transformer) circuit?

    I've read that dimmable CF bulbs do not work with triac-based circuits as found in most X10 home automation hardware.

  92. Waste heat by Suidae · · Score: 1

    Guys, we're not wasting ANY energy, at least during the heating season.

    Sort of true. If you are heating with electricity then no, that is not waste heat. But, if you are heating with gas then that electric heat costs double or triple what the gas heat it displaced would have cost. You are also using the energy in a very wasteful way, burning coal to make heat to make electricity, delivering the electricity, then turning it right back into heat. You've probably lost half the heat energy of the coal. Electricity for general space heating is wasteful if gas is available. Gas would probably be wastful if district heating from the waste heat of the coal burning power plant was available.

    Also, there is a question of where that waste heat goes. My electric dryer heats up the laundry room and the basement (where the exhaust pipe runs). That heat is mostly wasted because it isn't somewhere useful (and unfortunately because of the layout of the place I can't really get it somewhere useful).

    1. Re:Waste heat by djh101010 · · Score: 1

      Sort of true. If you are heating with electricity then no, that is not waste heat. But, if you are heating with gas then that electric heat costs double or triple what the gas heat it displaced would have cost. You are also using the energy in a very wasteful way, burning coal to make heat to make electricity, delivering the electricity, then turning it right back into heat.

      Perhaps you missed the part of my post where I described using electric as a primary heat source during off-peak times when it's measurably cheaper than propane. And as far as it being in the wrong part of the house, well, that's what a recirculation fan is for, isn't it? Besides, at least in my house, the TV, computers, and such are in the inhabited parts of the house. As far as it 'wasting half the energy in the coal', well, the bottom line is "what does it cost me for A vs B", not what's the ultimate bio-ecological efficiency of a system. With electricity I can heat my house for 8 bucks a night, propane for the same BTUs would cost me 12. I'm not seeing a downside, and if there are infrastructure inefficiencies, they're all factored in by the time it hits my meter.

      Aside from the measurable things, radiant heating with a huge heat sink is a very pleasant heat; the whole house is warm, not just the air. Radiant vs. convective vs. conductive and all that.

    2. Re:Waste heat by Suidae · · Score: 1

      As far as it 'wasting half the energy in the coal', well, the bottom line is "what does it cost me for A vs B", not what's the ultimate bio-ecological efficiency of a system.

      I disagree, I think overall efficiency is more important than cost, up to a point (gaining small increases in efficiency for large piles of money isn't pratical). Where that point is depends on a number of factors, one of which is the budget you have for energy.

      My main point is mostly just that the analysis of heating a space isn't always as easy as 'electric power is 100% efficient at the point of use' and that the dollar cost of a energy consumption is not necessarily the most important factor.

  93. Many, Many Mistakes... by evilviper · · Score: 2, Interesting

    it's empirically relatively power efficient [...]

    No, that computer isn't *remotely* power effecient.

    The ridiculously high 130+watt idle numbers are probably due to the S2K Bus Disconnect bug/issue AMD had before the switch to 64bit CPUs. Running a program like VCool or FVcool would likely reduce that number by 20-60 watts.

    The trend in CPUs (still the biggest single power drain in modern computers) is for MUCH more power-effecient models (especially when idle). A newer CPU and motherboard would be using significantly less power than that old Athlon, despite vastly outperforming the older chip.

    [...] given that it survives quite happily on a rather anemic 300W power supply, in an era when many advice guides are pushing monster 450W+ units.

    The recomendations are probably due to the ridiculous power consumption of Pentium 4 CPUs (which are thankfully behind us now) and $5 "500w" PSUs, which can't possibly deliver half the power advertised. Stay away from those two issues, and a 300W power supply is more than enough for modern systems.

    Additionally, 80% effecient power supplies like Seasonic's units are becomming more common, and more widely available, helping to significantly reduce power consumption as well.

    With all of this, many people are putting together new towers that use less power than their notebooks.

    A comparable LCD screen would use about 45-50W (yes, I've validated those numbers, and a 19" LCD really does use that much power.

    That's not a fair comparison. Those 19" CRTs probably have a "viewable" size of 17.9".

    Besides that, a jump of approx 50% power savings is still huge, and better than you'd get trading-in your old refridgerator for a new one... And with other improvements on the horizon, I predict computer displays will continue to out-pace refrigerator effeciency gains for many years to come.

    Furnace blower motors have been moving to DC, significantly reducing their electricity consumption as well.

    I fail to see how a DC motor is inherently more effecient than an AC motor. For one thing, it comes into your house as AC to begin with.

    the receiver/audio amplifier takes 51W, regardless of output

    I sincerely doubt most people watch TV with a surround-sound amplifier on, 40 hours a week.

    I don't see the majority of TV programming (things like news, game shows, soap operas, etc.) getting any more exciting when played over 6 speakers instead of the two built-in to the TV.

    (like most families, it's often on even when unwatched, especially given some of the great digital music channels our cable provider streams out)

    I don't know why anyone would leave their TV on to listen to digital music channels for hours a day, when it has already been established that the person in question is using a seperate amplifier for their TV viewing already...

    But that didn't stop him from using this in his calculations, not to mention claiming that he's trying to save the earth...

    that PVR is just as efficient at turning 42W into heat as your baseboard would be with the same power.

    No, it isn't. As I've repeated on /. many times before:

    "An electric heater will be a purely resistive load, giving you a nearly perfect power factor of 1.0, whereas your VCR probably has a cheap power supply with a power factor as low as 0.4. So the VCR is causing a lot more power loss [line losses], even though it's the same 5watts."

    The measured difference between doing general desktop tasks on Vista Ultimate running with Aero Glass, and Windows 2003 running on the same hardware, was negligible.

    No doubt this test was done on the same 32-bit AMD Athlon system (without S2K Bus Disconnect enabled) WHICH DOESN'T IDLE P

    --
    Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  94. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by Viol8 · · Score: 1

    So speaketh an insulted geek.

    Well heres some facts for you geek boy:

    A landline phone uses less electricity (so costs less to run)
    A landline phone has a guaranteed quality of service
    A landline phone is very cheap to buy.
    A landline phone is very resistant to bad lines (useful if you're well out in the country)
    A landline phone can have free calls depending on package

    An IP phone has cheap/free calls depending on the package/software.
    Ummm , any other pros for IP phones .... nope. Can't think of any. Here are some cons:

    An IP phone uses more power.
    An IP phone can be hacked.
    An IP phone relies on a good connection - too many dropped packets and the voice sounds unintelligable.
    An IP phone is more complex and hence theres more to go wrong.
    An IP phone doesn't have guaranteed QOS nor does it have a guaranteed working emergency number.

    So geek boy with your business poser phone , those are my pros and cons , lets hear yours.
    If you have any and you're not just blowing smoke out your rear.

  95. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by Jeff+DeMaagd · · Score: 1

    On an unrelated note, I've tried using CFLs in my house for about four years. I still can't find a model where the color doesn't make me want to vomit.

    The GEs I get from Sam's Club are pretty good. I personally don't see enough of a difference against incandescents to complain about it, and I'm the kind of person that's fussy when a monitor isn't displaying a calibrated 6500K white point.

  96. I cut my winter power use in half by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    By installing electric baseboard heater timers (from home depot at $40 a pop). I put them on my three big draw heating zones (kitchen, living room, master bedroom) and turned down all the little guys. Presto: winter power consumption cut in half.

    I'm also slowly moving to CFLs - but am not satisfied with the quality of the light in all cases. LED christmas lights were also a big switch this year - highly recommended.

  97. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    An IP phone has cheap/free calls depending on the package/software.
    Ummm , any other pros for IP phones .... nope. Can't think of any. That's sufficient for those of us who use them. VoIP phones offer free long distance for less than $30 per month. POTS without any long distance starts at $20 per month.

    Your cons list is mostly true. However, for many uses, it doesn't matter. At work, they only use VoIP phones internally. Because we lease the network, we can offer guarantees about the packets (at the expense of slowing down lower priority traffic). We use a good provider who converts to circuit based connections at our network edge. We gain by having our network edge in China, Japan, India, Europe, South Africa, and the US already. As a result, 90% of our external calls are local rather than long distance (even if someone in Virginia calls someone in Japan). Further, for calls from one internal user to another, we never touch external networks.

    At home, I pay less than $30 per month and get included long distance. Since most of my longer calls are long distance, this works for me. Doesn't work for you? Feel free to stick with POTS then.

    So geek boy with your business poser phone Way to make friends and influence people, buddy.
  98. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by tgd · · Score: 1

    Home Depot, amazingly enough, but getting enough meant wiping out 5 local stores of them and none of them have gotten any more. Your best bet is to ask them to check local stores for stock.

  99. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by tgd · · Score: 1

    All of mine are on two-way X10 dimmer circuits, no problem with any of them.

    Of course these are $100 switches, not the cheapo $10 X10 ones, but they work great.

  100. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by CharlieG · · Score: 1

    Have not had any luck getting dimmable R30s or R40s there, and I have asked

    --
    -- 73 de KG2V For the Children - RKBA! "You are what you do when it counts" - the Masso
  101. Re:Its good to see the few key things called out.. by tgd · · Score: 1

    Look at the labels on the shelf for them... the dimwits I talked to *never* knew what I was talking about until I dragged them over and pointed at the label. Then they could look it up in the computer.

  102. Re:Save a bit of money and get a normal phone then by FireFury03 · · Score: 1

    A landline phone uses less electricity (so costs less to run)

    This very much depends on your landline phone. I'd be surprised if there was much difference in power usage between a DECT phone and an 802.11 SIP phone.

    A landline phone has a guaranteed quality of service

    Dependent on your service provider. If you have the right equipment an IP phone provides similar QoS.

    A landline phone is very cheap to buy.

    Also dependent on the type of phone you buy - you can get POTS phones from anywhere around £5 up to £250 or more. At the low cost end you're probably right - you can't get an IP phone for much less than £40, but at the top end there's not much difference.

    A landline phone can have free calls depending on package

    I'm not sure how this is at all different to any other type of phone - be it IP, GSM, ISDN, etc.

    An IP phone uses more power.

    We already covered this one (above).

    An IP phone can be hacked.

    Presumably you mean "cracked"? An 802.11 phone with WPA turned on is far less open to cracking than a DECT phone. Also, have you never heard of POTS wire tapping? it's quite easy to do with a pair of wire cutters and an earphone...

    An IP phone doesn't have guaranteed QOS nor does it have a guaranteed working emergency number.

    Again, we covered this above - if you're using the right equipment and a good service provider then you can guarantee the same level of QoS as any POTS phone.

    So geek boy with your business poser phone , those are my pros and cons , lets hear yours.

    IP phones are used in many office buildings since they reduce the amount of wiring required (you only require a single cat5e network rather than a separate set of twisted pairs for the phone system).

    Also, people who travel a lot quite like IP phones since they can make calls from the hotel network without having to pay the high telephone charges that hotels like to charge.