Chefs As Chemists
circletimessquare writes "Using ingredients usually relegated to the lower half of the list of ingredients on a Twinkies wrapper, some professional chefs are turning themselves into magicians with food. Ferran Adrià in Spain and Heston Blumenthal in England have been doing this for years, but the New York Times updates us on the ongoing experiments at WD-50 in New York City. Xanthan Gum, agar-agar, and other hydrocolloids are being used to bring strange effects to your food. Think butter that doesn't melt in the oven, foie gras you can tie into knots, and fried mayonnaise."
'nuff said
Atomic Surprise!!
from http://khymos.org/recipe-collection.php
...fried mayonnaise.
I have a couple friends that went into food chemistry after undergrad. I thought about it but decided to stick with organic chemisty.
Gone!
Heston Blumenthal's Kitchen Chemistry series (which unfortunately didn't make it) was a lot more interesting than this article. You can even find torrents of the pilot episodes. I wish that series had been picked up and continued because there were some very interesting subjects, like the reasons behind certain flavours simply being unable to mix (basil and coffee, for example) as well as an everyman's guide to how the chemistry worked. As innovative as Blumenthal can be, there's no way I'm shelling out £300 for a meal at his restaurant.
and immediately tried to brew basil coffee, right?
What sound do people on rollercoasters make? Hint: it's not Xbox 360.
If it uses "ingredients usually relegated to the lower half of the list of ingredients on a Twinkies wrapper", then what the hell does it have to do with food?
Molecular gastronomy is partially a scam to sell expensive lab equipment to rich foodies. With that said, I will probably sell out and write articles about the coolest gadgets and techniques. I do like the idea of vacuum pumps as a culinary tool. Sucking and pumping was meant for the kitchen.
I have to say that this is why I like watching Alton Brown's Good Eats. He actually understands the science of cooking, and is able to explain how it works without turning off the average person.
I'm betting "molecular gastronomy" is going to REALLY take off within the next five years or so...
Don't tell me to get a life. I'm a gamer; I have LOTS of lives!
The guy that deep fried a Snickers bar thinks that fried mayo is a bad idea...
I used to be with IT..now IT seems strange and scary to me.
I've never been there, but Yelpers don't seem terribly enamored with the place.
http://www.goveg.com/feat/foie/
What a despicable thing to do to an animal just to make it tastier to eat.
A work that expires before its copyright never enters the public domain and thus enjoys eternal copyright protection.
... that stuff doesn't make twinkies healthy why would I want to eat more of it?
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed H
didn't I just see this on an Iron Chef episode?!?
http://blogs.foodnetwork.com/food/nic/2007/10/episode_2.html
oh, yes... I did.
Beware of the Leopard.
Hello all,
Currently I'm doing the Chef part of my life at this time. What is being described here is very old stuff http://www.foodarts.com/ and all this stuff is just commonplace technique nowadays. Adria, Achatz, Andres I have met or worked with. It's really not that amazing when you think that we as culinarians are (actually they are), just being creative instead of the things that a lot of people have been eating all along but in a different form. For instance: Grant Achatz (whom i think is Awesome) guinness that's thickened with Gelatin is just "Jello" "tm" but flavored with beer. Ferran Adria is the guy you seek if you want to know/learn stuff He invented this whole thing in first place about 10 or 12 years ago and it took the world by storm. He makes drops of olive encase in suger bags. Hell, there is a gut in chicago that invented a computer printer that makes edible and taste-infused menu's that you eat to before you order your food: http://en.wikinews.org/wiki/Chicago_chef_invents_edible_menu. Anyway, my whole point is: We as chefs, are very creative, funny and dedicated to bring the food world into the computer world accepept as munchies on a late night!
I'm here for the experience, not the Hyperbole.
These chefs concern themselves so much with the presentation. Can't they buy an autofocus camera so their pictures don;t look like shit.
Maybe you should try it and you'll agree that what they do to create such delicious stuff is well worth it.
In fact, I'm going to eat more of it just to spite your tree hugging, faggoty feelings.
They were delicious!
What?
In commercial food production, none of this is new. Here's a first course in food chemistry online. Read Sources of Flavor Volatiles in Food (PowerPoint).
Some of the advanced technology used in food production plants is filtering down to the chef level. The commercial guys have to produce products that are storeable, transportable, and repeatable, so they have a tougher job. If you don't have to do that but have access to commercial technology, a whole range of interesting options open up. One of the newer ideas of interest is cryogenic grinding, where foods are cooled to liquid nitrogen temperatures before grinding. This reduces loss of volatile components (which carry most of the flavor) during grinding. Works well for nutmeg, and is being tried for other spices.
The secret ingredient is: Cruelty!
Okay, hands up those who read that as WD-40.
Which is why I like cooking French. Quantities and instructions are very precise because they have to be. If you mess with the formula, the dish won't come out right. An ex-girlfriend fancied herself a cook, and was good with Italian dishes but never got the knack for French cooking because it required the kind of precision of which you speak.
I also found that as soon as I switched to better pans, my own cooking improved as well, because the heat transfer required by the recipe was now finally taking place. Nothing like a big heavy copper (or copper core) pan.
Nothing is inexplicable; only unexplained -Tom Baker, Doctor Who
Ok, it may not kill you right away and it may have calories, but I don't consider that edible.
Sounds worse than McDonald's to me. Yuck.
thegodmovie.com - watch it
That site literally made my eyes hurt.
What has *science* done?!? -- Dr. Weird (ATHF)
The technique is generally referred to as "molecular gastronomy", and has produced even weirder things than listed in the main article. For example, Dufresne has used "meat glue" (i.e. transglutaminase, which was, IIRC, designed to produce Chicken McNuggets) to make pasta entirely out of shrimp, and another chef has made flavoured edible menus out of soybean and potato starch with fruit and vegetable inks that come in such varieties as steak and sushi. Here's a page with some interesting links on Chow:
http://www.chow.com/stories/10411
.. strange foods tied together with massive amounts of chemicals to make them taste like real foods.
Isn't that what McDonalds is for?
Think butter that doesn't melt in the oven, foie gras you can tie into knots, and fried mayonnaise.
... and I especially don't want to think too much about fried mayonnaise. Cripes, talk about adding insult to injury.
I don't want to think about butter that doesn't melt in the oven, or foie gras in knots
The higher the technology, the sharper that two-edged sword.
is the type 2 diabetes epidemic not enough? heart disease? sometimes i think it just happens to be that anything done to food to make it live forever on a shelf is also going to make it live forever in your body.
i do hope food scientists begin to turn their guns on making food safer. everyone who gets put on a restricted diet becomes unable to eat these creations.
Somebody's gonna find a way to make bombs out of Twinkies, HoHo's, and gasp....Pizza! Then they'll ban them, and we'll be stuck with nutritious food. I hate it when McGuyver's go to the Dark Side.
Table-ized A.I.
I don't know if Chemists in general are good with timing. When I was little my mother would start cooking for the day at 8am,making everything from scratch and magically at lunch and dinner all the correct dishes would be finished simultaneously. Now that is an art.
Nowadays scientists in universities don't have time for science. They must publish, get grants, do marketing, blah, blah. After a few decades of this they probably don't even know the value of pi. So how the hell do we expect them to get home in time to cook anything?
try here for more delicious ideas
do not read this line twice.
looking at the blog referenced, there are possibly more interesting meals (and much better pics)
El Bulli (referenced in the comments above too - lots of crazy looking stuff)
http://chuckeats.com/blog3/2006/06/22/el-bulli-roses-spain-the-mad-scientist/
Keyah Grande (looks stunning)
http://chuckeats.com/blog3/2007/01/19/keyah-grande-pagosa-springs-co-rip/
El Poblet (i'm not sure of the techniques used but it looks wild)
http://chuckeats.com/blog3/2007/10/08/el-poblet-denia-spain-a-midsummer-nights-dream/
For some reason, this is the first thing that popped into my head when I read TFA.
Have gnu, will travel.
If you are in Pittsburgh....
http://www.bigelowgrille.com/alchemy.html
is a lot better, also not cheap.
but the chicken and waffles were unbelievable.
chicken = fried chicken skin, cut in the shape of a chicken
waffles = some sort of butter/syrup jello
gravy = gravy that was made into crunchy/soft foam?
And you, my friend, quite possibly did not get the subtle joke there. Or maybe you did. But probably not.
-Clio
Karma: Bad (mostly from not giving a fuck)
Blog: http://clintjcl.wordpress.com
Mongrel News all the news that fits and froths
Mongrel News all the news that fits and froths
To reference a popular verse:
And the angel of the Lord came unto me,
snatching me up from my
place of slumber,
and took me on high,
and higher still until we
moved in the spaces betwixt the air itself.
and he bore me unto a
vast farmland of our own midwest,
and as we descended cries of
impending doom rose from the soil.
one thousand, nay, a million
voices full of fear.
and terror possessed me then.
and I begged,
"Angel of the Lord, what are these tortured screams?"
And the angel said unto me,
"These are the cries of the carrots,
the cries of the carrots.
You see, reverend Maynard, tomorrow is harvest day
and to them it is the holocaust."
And I sprang from my slumber drenched in sweat
like the tears of one millions terrified brothers
and roared,
"Hear me now,
I have seen the light,
they have a consciousness,
they have a life,
they have a soul.
damn you!
let the rabbits wear glasses,
save our brothers...can I get an amen?
can I get a hallelujah? thank you, Jesus.
Ramen
But I'll take your word for it, in which case... *I* didn't get *your* joke. :)
-Clio
Karma: Bad (mostly from not giving a fuck)
Blog: http://clintjcl.wordpress.com
that is, sex with a real child, who is biologically sexually immature. you can bet your archeologist's tenured chair that our ancestors thousands of years ago were bashing the heads of men (and women) who preyed on the prepubescent
meanwhile, teenagers are biologically mature enough for sex. now in modern times, certainly, the issue of TEENAGERS being verboten for sex with adults is a new thing. but that's because we respect the notion of mental immaturity nowadays. so let them experiment amongst themselves, and keep the predatorial adults away from them
seems like progress to me
intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
Eventually followed by the logical conclusion.
Probably the best show on the Food Network. Alton Brown's show gives me the impression that Alton's a physics major that happened to get into cooking.
A bit holier-than-thou, sure, but the grandparent post is insane. Foie gras is comparable to chopping up an animal into serving size pieces - while it's still alive. Any slaughterhouse performing such obviously unnecessary cruelty (instead of the usual instant killing blow) would be shut down immediately.
Enzymes, being proteins, aren't normally absorbed by the body. (Which is why insulin, for example, can't be taken in tablet form.) Also, these enzymes aren't supposed to be floating around in the blood (which is where they'd be if they were absorbed) - Liver function tests measure the presence of these enzymes in the blood, since they show that liver cells have been damaged/lysed, releasing their contents.
Vitamin A deficiency is still a big problem in developing countries, though, and liver is definitely the best source of it. Of course, too much of a good thing can also be a problem.
throughout the entire animal kingdom there are animals eating animals, for millions of years
and throughout the animal kingdom, sex with the sexually immature isn't normal, for millions of years
it's moral, and natural, to not have sex with children, and to eat meat
intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
for example, it is not ok to eat your fellow humans, because eating the dead flesh of your own species encourages diseases. in fact, there is a prion disease called kuru, similar to mad cow disease, amongst papua new guineans who dug up and ate their dead ritualistically
likewise, fucking children incurs the wrath of parents, for good reason: it is their biological role to shepherd their children to adulthood. their interest in that is making sure the child reaches adulthood before mating. because when you are mature, you can do a better job of picking a genetically healthy mate. the genetically inferior, shoved aside, will seek to prey on those with immature abilities to choose a good mate. such that if you as a parent tolerate sexual trangression against your children, you are imperiling your own genetic lineage to an inferior set of genes: kid fuckers. preying on children is a potent sign of genetic unfitness
in other words, the strongest argument against pedophilia is not only that children are hurt, but that the completely natural and organic rage of parents against pedophiles is something that will not be dispelled and must be respected, simply because there is no placating it
and as for eating meat: go view half an hour of national geographic about what goes on on the plains of the serengeti on any given night, for the last dozen million years. meat gets eaten. sorry about how you feel about that, but that's just the way it is
intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
...and fried mayonnaise. If you're ever in San Diego, try the Tlaquepaque at Jimmy Carter's (least Mexican named Mexican restaurant ever).If you can get over the notion that it's basically a hot mayonnaise and jalapeno sauce, it's actually just the right amount of sweet, creamy and spicy that combines brilliantly with the rice.
Molecular Tapas Bar in the Oriental Lounge, Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo.
It rocks.
j'ai découvert une démonstration vraiment admirable (de ce théorème général) que cette si
AFAIK the bonobos also have sex with immature members of their group (google). Seems to work fine for them. I won't be surprised if dolphins and other animals do that too. It's probably just not suitable to show on the National Geographic channel ;).
Anyway, "natural" is overrated.
Humans should use their big brains and figure out what is good overall and long term. That said the norms of cultures that have survived and _thrived_ for thousands of years should not be discarded overnight without a great deal of evidence. There are many different human cultures, and it is fairly obvious that some are crappier than others.
We need to start using our brains a lot more and not just do stuff because it is technologically possible. Society is not ready for a USD10K "kill everyone" bioweapon kit. And just because someone figures out a way to make a cheap gigawatt "infinitech" powerplant it doesn't mean everyone should have one before we figure a way of preventing/avoiding the entire world from glowing red hot from the excess heat.
Excellent idea for livening up children's parties, and possibly a standby comfort food for deep sea divers!
One swallow does not a fellatrix make
Very interesting, intellectually, but good food is simple: start with good ingredients, don't overcook, and eat in moderation. The last one is important - if you eat until you are close to vomiting, it doesn't matter whether the meal was of good quality. The old saying 'the proof of the pudding is in the eating' means exactly that.
I ate there earlier this year. One of the best meals I've had, but the menu -- while more creative than almost any other I've seen -- had none of the flashy mad scientist concoctions that are so well publicized. If you are in NY and are a bit of a foodie, it's definitely a worthwhile experience. Better than many well publicized restaurants like Babbo (IMHO).
A friend of mine is an excellent chef (mediterranean/mexican fusion with emphasis on seafood), regularly invited to prepare meals in places like Oslo, Paris, London, Evian (Switzerland), San Francisco, Acapulco, etc. No matter what city it is, he splurges on at least one meal at the most celebrated restaurant (according to the gastronomic insiders) in town, and money is no object on these special occasions.
A couple of years ago, while visiting London, my friend and his wife went to Blumenthal's place, The Fat Duck, specifically for the sampler meal at three hundred pounds per person, for two people. Sixteen tiny courses, fifteen of them with their own specific wine.
Just to give you an idea, the first course was a sphere chilled to the temperature of liquid nitrogen, handled with chemist's pliers. Within a second of being popped in the mouth, the sphere vaporized and expanded. Containing mostly gas, with some green tea, lemon and vodka, this did three things: cleansed the taste buds, stimulated the appetite and gave an immediate buzz.
Supposedly, the fourth or fifth course was the proverbial sledgehammer to the head - a quail jelly on a bed of green pea puree and wheat. That's when the sky cracked open and the meaning of life was telepathically revealed from above. After that it was a two-hour haze of "artistic perfection".
How many of us can say that a certain meal, a sequence of flavor combinations, caused a full-blown epiphany, a mystical experience?
To this day, my friend's eyes glaze and focus off into infinity while remembering "the best meal I've ever had in my life, the best twelve hundred dollars (!!!) I've ever spent". The good wife agrees, even as the Harrod's shopping budget was obliterated by one dinner.
Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
That heart disease is the second leading cause of death in industrialized nations. Only government kills more people.
>It is a peculiar thing that we think it's OK to eat animals.
I have no problem with eating animals. I do have a problem with torturing them in order to make them more yummy.
A work that expires before its copyright never enters the public domain and thus enjoys eternal copyright protection.
...in which corn is force-fed to farm-raised ducks... If you have to force the animal to engage in the activity, they probably don't want to be doing it.
A work that expires before its copyright never enters the public domain and thus enjoys eternal copyright protection.
...The whole "FORCE" feeding thing.
/supposed/ to store fat. Oh, they are treated much better than chickens.
Oh, it's natural. Oh, their livers are
Except we have to cram food down their mouths in the name of making them taste yummy.
I'm all for eating animals. I'm not for force feeding them to make them taste better.
A work that expires before its copyright never enters the public domain and thus enjoys eternal copyright protection.
LOOK - I am not pro-PETA nor am I a vegetarian. It happened to be the first link on Google about the reality of Foie Gras that I came across.
Don't like the PETA/VEG opinion on it, Google for yourself!!!!
A work that expires before its copyright never enters the public domain and thus enjoys eternal copyright protection.
It was poor of me to pick a vegetarian URL for describing Foie Gras.
I eat meat, and I'm all for the raising and slaughter of animals for eating. Thanks for the excellent post.
A work that expires before its copyright never enters the public domain and thus enjoys eternal copyright protection.
This will come as no surprise to the members of the Institute of Food Technologists. All of the big-scale industrial foods have a TON of science at their core - flavor, color, texture, nutrition, marketability, shelf-life, etc., etc. ad delectum. Spaghetti sauce turned out at 10,000 jars an hour uses all kinds of special processes and ingredients (i.e. chemicals) to achieve the desired outcome. Now, this same science is finding its way into the retail market, for meals prepared at the rate of only 100/hour in a kitchen.
Better living through chemistry. Long live the food technologists!
Disclaimer: I'm a Professional Member of IFT, although I'm not employed or paid by them.
The man who does not read good books has no advantage over the man who cannot read them. - Mark Twain
If cooking were chemistry, we'd be measuring solids by weight and not volume. Making bread is far more difficult than it needs to be because two people can't measure out the same cup of flour. I'd blame it on bad lab technique, but it's actually faulty recipes that specify solids (powders) in terms of volume. That makes no sense unless you specify the density of the packing as well. It would be much easier and more accurate to just specify a certain number of grams of flour instead.
No weapon in the arsenals of the world is so formidable as the will and moral courage of free men.-Ronald Reagan
so you wish to take that observation as a justification for brutality?
nothing that victimizes another person is ever 100% tolerated. we're still struggling with that concept, but we're making progress. i don't know how the fact things were once more brutal means that we should accept them, or say that in history there was no search for justice as well
you wish to paint a pciture of a time when all manner of horrible things took place, and no one cared
oh, they cared all right, they were just more outnumbered then
intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
i submitted this article
and i also wrote the comment above that said animal rights activists should grow beef in vats to fight cruelty to animals
intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
(Actual recipe for pie from spell book: Sift one pinch powdered spider nostril, 1 maggot's armpit, 1 smoked tapeworm. Set aside. Blend grumph from a troll's belly button, 2 goat's hoof-jam. Add powdered mixture. Puree until creamy. Add fruit to taste.)
Oh, say does that Star-Spangled Banner entwine / The myrtle of Venus with Bacchus's vine?
might i assume that you missed the episode where they experimented with inflating a chicken? 'in search of perfection' was one of my favorite tv shows for a while - it appealed to my inner gastro-geek.
...line.
It seems by your logic, since the animals are being "forced" to do anything at all, then anything at all goes.
It must be nice to rationalize cruelty so easily.
A work that expires before its copyright never enters the public domain and thus enjoys eternal copyright protection.
Could you please follow up on those flavor equality charts that put mushrooms, oranges and horse dung together ?
The shuddering just won't stop.
there's no way I'm shelling out £300 for a meal at his restaurant.
I have (although I don't think it was quite that much) - myself and a bunch of friends went for the tasting menu at the Fat Duck, which is not so much a meal as a gastronomic rollercoaster. It was extraordinary, although obviously given the cost I wouldn't go there often.
The snail porridge was a lot nicer than it sounds, the bacon and egg ice cream not so much. It took a couple of hours all told to work through the numerous, small courses and accompanying wines. I'd recommend it as an experience.