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Saving Power in your Home Office

cweditor writes "Rob Mitchell shows how he measured energy use of all his home office equipment, and then targeted the energy pigs for replacement. With better equipment choices, he'd save $90/year. If you've got more than a couple of computers and printers at home (and if you're a Slashdot reader, you probably do), the savings would be a lot higher. Includes detailed formulas as well as a spreadsheet on monitor energy usage."

285 comments

  1. Saving elsewhere by luvirini · · Score: 5, Insightful

    A typical slashdotter will likely save way more both nature and money in a year by just not buying one of the gadgets..

    Ofcourse saving electricity is good, but often the total enviromental cost of disposing of the previous thing and the making of the new more energy efficient thing is way above any savings made by the new one..

    1. Re:Saving elsewhere by eln · · Score: 4, Funny

      The average Slashdotter already saves energy in a variety of ways:

      1.) Cutting showers to less than once a month greatly reduces both water and electricity (or gas) usage.
      2.) Staying in Mom's basement not only drastically reduces greenhouse gas emissions from automobile usage, but also eliminates all the extra energy waste that maintaining a separate house would entail.
      3.) Not dating ensures procreation will not occur, thereby eliminating the energy usage involved in having more people on the planet.

      As usual, Slashdot is way ahead of the curve on this issue. Unfortunately, 90% of these savings are used up by the racks of ancient computer equipment still running in many of these basements, but every little bit counts.

    2. Re:Saving elsewhere by Otter · · Score: 4, Insightful
      Sincere question -- why on earth does any one person need more than a laptop, a desktop computer with monitor and one printer at home? (OK, I'll throw in a "media center", also.) Not that one necessarily needs even that, but I'm always baffled by these comments here about home networks that sound more like 15 person businesses.

      Presumably there's an answer, but cross-platform development is the only one I can come up with, and are there really so many people compiling on VMS at home?

    3. Re:Saving elsewhere by timeOday · · Score: 3, Insightful

      If consumer prices more accurately reflected long-term environmental costs, you could answer this question simply by determining whether it made financial sense to replace the gadget. People thinking of dumping their car to get something more fuel efficient in order to save money make this calculation all the time: how much gas $$/mo will I save, how long would that take to pay off the difference between car X and car Y (though the high price of gas is due to scarcity and politics instead of reflecting long-term costs such as the environment). Correcting the fact that pricing does not reflect environmental impact in general is the #1 environmental step we could take IMHO. Granted, this would allow rich people to continue polluting all they want, but at least they'd have an incentive to clean up their factories. And yes, I think we could and should extend this to imported goods.

    4. Re:Saving elsewhere by Rogerborg · · Score: 3, Interesting

      And as long as throwing things away is free (or charged at a flat rate) thus it will continue. And that's why there's little point in charging manufacturers a disposal levy up-front; once they've passed that on to the customer, there's no disincentive to dispose of the item.

      --
      If you were blocking sigs, you wouldn't have to read this.
    5. Re:Saving elsewhere by cayenne8 · · Score: 1
      Really..I'm not that worried about it...my main power expense...is the A/C in the summer months...well, ok, basically my A/C comes on in mid to late April, and goes through November. I've had it off and on last few weeks as cool fronts start coming through. I like to keep the place about 72F while I'm there...and about 76F when gone (I have a long haired dog).

      But, really...I have a sunfire 280, with accompanying raid array...that sounds like a jet engine ready to take off, dual power supplies...I'm sure that sucks down some power...then the old Dell server I've played with...that's in storage right now, but I'm hoping to get it back out again..I can't remember the model, but, it is a dual supply with about 10 or so scsi drives in it...I keep my mac laptop on most of the time, I have a couple of dell boxes...one for quickbooks, etc...another is my mythtv box...I'm about to put about 2 TB worth of drives in an old compaq box...use it for some backup and file server for me and my friends....my email server is an old sun ultra 2, with gentoo on it.

      Most all of those are on 24/7. I do like to recycle older servers, I can get them in good shape on ebay and around town...but, they do suck up the juice. I pay the bills, and they don't seem that bad....especially in the winter...since I'm pretty warm natured, I rarely turn on the heat, but, the rest of the year, it is the AC that sucks up the energy.

      I usually have my tv's on when I'm home...and usually sleep with at least one of them on...it is my nightlight.

      I guess recycling computers, while it saves them from the landfill....will consume more electricity...at least if you use them like I like to.

      On the other hand...I'm not terribly worried about conserving this or that...or being 'green'. As long as I can afford to do the things I want...I'll do them. No SUV's though..I don't like them...too big and WAY too many seats. I prefer 2 seaters...

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    6. Re:Saving elsewhere by plague3106 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Hell, why do you need your own house? Surely an apartment is good enough for you? Even that's wasteful, why not just live in a building with shared bathrooms and beds. Who needs lights at night anyway, or a TV for that matter? Surely not buying a washing machine would be more efficent too, just do your dishes in the sink. Its also a waste to travel, so lets live at where ever we are employed. And you get one plate to call your own. Who needs more than that?

    7. Re:Saving elsewhere by Wowsers · · Score: 1

      People thinking of dumping their car to get something more fuel efficient in order to save money make this calculation all the time: how much gas $$/mo will I save, how long would that take to pay off the difference between car X and car Y Maybe in your part of the world that's how people buy cars, but here it's:
      1) Can I afford it?
      2) Do I look good in it?
      3) Do the babes like it and will it get me laid?
      --
      Take Nobody's Word For It.
    8. Re:Saving elsewhere by NeilTheStupidHead · · Score: 2, Informative

      Beyond the question of whether or not anyone 'needs' even one computer, some of use just do it cause we can, or because we want to. I still have an old laptop on my network for no other reason that when it got replaced, it got several different linux builds tested on it and then stuck in a corner, chugging away at Folding@Home and acting as my print server. It was a great learning experience, getting the different platforms (two different windows versions and a linux box) to all talk and play nice and friendly (i.e. beyond using a common internet connection). Some people use old computers as firewalls, routers, file servers, etc. and some people simply can't throw things out. There's a second desktop that I use for playing older games that don't run properly on newer OSes, but it's off unless I'm using it. I've probably got parts enough to build two or three computers (less cases) stored in my closet because there's no reason to throw out old but working parts. I would say that is probably true of a signifigant number of Slashdotters.

      Anytime some one says "Oh my is broken", I've probably got a replacement and I simply give the part away. I admit that having a bunch of computers running 'just because' is probably wasteful in terms of electricity cost, but throwing them out is wasteful if they're just going to sit in a landfill.

      --
      Lose: misplace or fail || Loose: not bound together
    9. Re:Saving elsewhere by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Have you heard that some homes contain more than one person?

    10. Re:Saving elsewhere by graphicsguy · · Score: 1

      Unfortunately, they tend to overestimate their positive response to all three. At least slashdotters should be able to estimate #1 correctly.

    11. Re:Saving elsewhere by graphicsguy · · Score: 1

      Huh? The point is that the increased up-front cost to the consumer is the disincentive.

    12. Re:Saving elsewhere by Ngarrang · · Score: 1, Insightful

      If we had more nuclear power plants, we wouldn't have to worry about saving electricity. Give me more electricity!

      --
      Bearded Dragon
    13. Re:Saving elsewhere by bcattwoo · · Score: 1

      OK, perhaps it is not a question of whether they need them or not, but what the hell are they doing with them?

    14. Re:Saving elsewhere by Rogerborg · · Score: 1

      That's a hidden disincentive to buy a new toy, not an overt disincentive to discard the old one. It's very different.

      --
      If you were blocking sigs, you wouldn't have to read this.
    15. Re:Saving elsewhere by plague3106 · · Score: 1

      I think the best bet is to give said people benefit of the doubt that they are in fact doing something useful with them. I would never leave a computer on that wasn't serving some kind of purpose.

    16. Re:Saving elsewhere by TheDormouse · · Score: 5, Informative

      Surely not buying a washing machine would be more efficent too, just do your dishes in the sink.

      No. A full load in the dishwasher actually uses less resources than doing dishes by hand. And the dishwasher will actually clean and disinfect the dishes properly, whereas most people doing dishes by hand won't actually kill all the bacteria while using at least twice as much water.

    17. Re:Saving elsewhere by Clover_Kicker · · Score: 1

      I have 1 PC for myself and one for the missus.

      Which one should get the modem and have the email client installed on it?

      So I built a server and installed IMAP. Now either PC can read/send email, and in my case, whatever OS I've booted today can read/send email.

      It's also a file server and does nightly backups, but IMAP is probably the killer app for me.

    18. Re:Saving elsewhere by Retric · · Score: 2, Informative

      The idea is if you don't buy the new toy you don't discard the old one.

      EX: I had a 91' Volvo with ~230k miles which I replaced a few months ago with a brand new Acura TSX. The Acura get's ~50% more miles to the gallon but costs 500$ month. If it had cost 700$ a month I would have probably kept my Volvo for another few years because I don't drive all that much.

      PS: Yea the car analogy is messed up because there are several reasons to buy a new car. However, when things cost more the tendency is to stick with what you have.

    19. Re:Saving elsewhere by Doctor+Faustus · · Score: 1

      Sincere question -- why on earth does any one person need more than a laptop, a desktop computer with monitor and one printer at home? (OK, I'll throw in a "media center", also.) Not that one necessarily needs even that, but I'm always baffled by these comments here about home networks that sound more like 15 person businesses.
      We don't all live alone. My wife, my son and I have two desktops and a laptop in active use, a TV with a DirecTivo and a Wii attached, and we'll probably be getting another desktop and a PS3 (mainly as a BluRay player) before long. And I will be setting up a database/web server somewhere for data related to an annual fundraiser at my son's school, although it may wind up at the school.

      That's a god bit of stuff, but it's still well short of your list, accounting for the number of people.

    20. Re:Saving elsewhere by ScrappyLaptop · · Score: 1
      ...um, this is Slashdot:

      1) Do I look good in it?

      2) ????

      3) Can I afford it?

    21. Re:Saving elsewhere by ScrappyLaptop · · Score: 1

      I completely agree with your sentiment. Cheap goods plus cheap disposal plus marketing to provide dissatisfaction with the current model = huge waste. But...we tried charging for disposal. Lots and lots of CRT's and other nasties dumped into ditches instead of recycled or 'properly' disposed of (partial reclaimation).

    22. Re:Saving elsewhere by plague3106 · · Score: 1

      I don't know how your family does it, but we've only used two sink basins, each half filled with water. One for soap, the other to rinse. Also, almost all dish soap is now antibacterial.

      FWIW, I don't think most dishwashers are either; my relatively new one (two years old) has a seperate wash mode to kill bacteria.

    23. Re:Saving elsewhere by CheeseTroll · · Score: 1

      If we saved more electricity, we wouldn't need more power plants - of any kind.

      --
      A post a day keeps productivity at bay.
    24. Re:Saving elsewhere by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      The dishwasher will not disinfect the dishes unless you use a disinfectant soap. Otherwise it's not much more disinfectant than doing the dishes by hand. Fortunately, that's pretty much enough to do the job. Your dishwasher is not an autoclave. (although that would be pretty cool. No taking my idea, please.)

      Restaurant dishwashers use separate sterilizers.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    25. Re:Saving elsewhere by Ngarrang · · Score: 1

      If we saved more electricity, we wouldn't need more power plants - of any kind.

      But why regress? I like my electric toys. They are what separate us from the animals. And what about all those electric cars the tree-huggers want us to drive? We need the nuclear power plants to provide that energy. I fail to see why as a society we should revert to a colder, darker time when we have the technology to simply produce more electricity. If the part of the population that wishes to use less wants, then do so, but don't make me feel guilty for having a 20-system cluster in the garage crunching away on SETI@Home data.

      --
      Bearded Dragon
    26. Re:Saving elsewhere by Lord+Ender · · Score: 1

      Well, there's the lab servers, the fileserver (for the terrabytes of RAID), the home web/ssh/mail sever, perhaps a VoIP server... if you have to ask this question, what are you doing on slashdot?

      --
      A slashdotter who didn't build his own computer is like a Jedi who didn't build his own lightsaber.
    27. Re:Saving elsewhere by teeto · · Score: 1

      Or use Solar power!

    28. Re:Saving elsewhere by bynary · · Score: 1

      You have just described how 90% of the world lives.

      --
      http://www.bynarystudio.com
    29. Re:Saving elsewhere by bynary · · Score: 1

      I would argue (as I'm sure many others would too) that there's no such thing as unlimited energy. Given enough time, we could eventually consume almost all energy in the universe. Sure, it would take long enough that anyone alive today and in the next few billion years wouldn't have to worry about it, but it would eventually happen. So I guess you're right: we don't have to worry about saving electricity.

      --
      http://www.bynarystudio.com
    30. Re:Saving elsewhere by fast+turtle · · Score: 3, Informative

      why on earth does any one person need more than a laptop, a desktop computer with monitor and one printer at home? To answer your question is easy:

      Dad's Computer

      Mom's Computer

      Kids Computers

      Dad's printer - Laser

      Mom's Printer - Scanner/Injet

      Kids Printer - injet

      and that's just in my house. Dad's printer is used for work, Mom's is an all-in-one and the kids get basic injet for school work, while ensuring when they run out of ink/paper, it's doesn't mean dad's out.

      Add in a home network and I've now got all three desktops Folding 24/7

      This of course doesn't count the Media Center (don't have one anyhow) the fact that there's a home NAS, Dad/Mom/Kids all have backup folders on them. Plus doesn't include the game consoles, Gaming Rig, and so on. All told, there are 7 computers in my house running 24/7 for a total of 5 people (3 pre-teens).

      Now if you asked are they in use all the time then Hell Yes - Folding at Home on all of them and every system is as energy saving as possible.

      --
      Mod me up/Mod me down: I wont frown as I've no crown
    31. Re:Saving elsewhere by Bent+Mind · · Score: 1

      why on earth does any one person need more than a laptop, a desktop computer with monitor and one printer at home? That sounds about right. Now multiply it by four other people in the house, three other families that VPN in, oh, and I still use a 75MHz Pentium laptop for electronic experiments. Honestly, if it were just me, I'd be happy with the laptop...
      --
      Request a Linux Shockwave player here: http://www.macromedia.com/support/email/wishform/
    32. Re:Saving elsewhere by Achromatic1978 · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Now if you asked are they in use all the time then Hell Yes - Folding at Home on all of them and every system is as energy saving as possible.

      One part of this sentence is incompatible with the other. Hint: All those CPUs, not idling, and energy saving, but instead hammering 100% 24/7.

    33. Re:Saving elsewhere by monkeySauce · · Score: 1

      I like nuclear, but it's no free lunch.

      The idea of limitless <whatever> gets people all excited, but you just need to calm down and remember that most resources are finite, and they all come at a cost.

      Change your perspective. Rather than "worry about saving" electricity, you should be bothered by waste of it. Same goes for water and other resources. Efficiency may not be exciting, but it is rewarding.

    34. Re:Saving elsewhere by rmerry72 · · Score: 1

      why on earth does any one person need more than a laptop, a desktop computer with monitor and one printer at home?

      Same reason I don't live in my car or a studio apartment, or why I have a separate fridge, oven washing machine and dryer. Different machines for different uses. Multiple machines for multiple people doing different things. Oh, and I can't fit 10TB in a single box.

      Four PCs around the house for viewing and listening, a database server, an app server, a 'gateway box, and a couple of laptops for going outside. And eventually something in each car, portable MP3 players, perhaps a remote control device or two, monitoring station.

      Now in theory I could build a single box that can be a gateway, media server, app server, database server, hold 3TB and use it to rip DVDs, record TV programs and transfer to my Zen. But then I'd be too busy swapping tasks and churning to get anything done. Likewise I have the skills to build software, fix a motor bike, build furniture, drive and clean tables. But I don't - other people fulfill those task in society.

      Now you can argue I and my family don't "need" to do all that - we could just have one TV, a single DVD player and a laptop for the web - but that's a different argument.

      --
      We do not inherit the Earth from our parents. We borrow it from our children.
    35. Re:Saving elsewhere by rmerry72 · · Score: 2, Informative

      No. A full load in the dishwasher actually uses less resources than doing dishes by hand.

      Not mine. Used to when it was new, but not lately. Have to rewash things constantly which leads to more resources being used (including time). And before you start, its only 6 years old and I don;t thing replacing all our dishwashers every 5 years is efficient use of resources either.

      --
      We do not inherit the Earth from our parents. We borrow it from our children.
    36. Re:Saving elsewhere by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Actually you should feel guilty. Seeing as your actions effect me I'd say you have the attitude of a douche bag.

    37. Re:Saving elsewhere by Brickwall · · Score: 1
      Totally agree it's your A/C. I looked this up on Wikipedia the other day, and they gave an example of a 2,000 sq.ft. home (not large), in Chicago (where you don't need A/C from November to April) with a 10 SEER rated A/C. (That SEER rating is lower than for new models, but if your system is more than 10 years old, it's probably in that range.) They estimated that that home would use over 4,000 kWh/year just for A/C, as compared to 400 kWh for a new refrigerator, or from TFA, 800 kWh for Mitchell's panoply of electronics.

      During the Clinton years, the US government made 13 SEER the minimum standard for new A/C's. Can't remember where I read this, but someone estimated that if every A/C in the US was replaced by a 13 SEER or better unit, they wouldn't have needed to build any new powerplants since the mid-1990's. Wish I could confirm this, but I have to believe with all the growth in the South and Southwest over the last 20 years, where A/C runs pretty much all the time, it is certainly plausible. Bush proposed a roll-back to 12 SEER in 2001; this was challenged by state politicians, and I believe the DOE finally stayed with the higher number. The estimate of electricity saved by going from 12 to 13 SEER was 12.6 Billion kWh. At peak hours, this would have required some 40+ 300 MW plants to have been built.

      On the other hand, I've been in Miami in August. Makes me glad I live in Toronto; in winter, I can always throw on another sweater; you can't walk around Miami naked. (Or, more properly, you wouldn't want to see ME doing that..)

      --
      What was once true, is no longer so
    38. Re:Saving elsewhere by djradon · · Score: 1

      Without resorting to virtual machines, you should be able to run fileserver, web/ssh/mail server and VoIP on the same box. The lab servers could be virtual machines. Why not save yourself $100/year and get rid of some of that clutter?

    39. Re:Saving elsewhere by Architect_sasyr · · Score: 1

      Mine is serving a purpose... earning a greater uptime......

      --
      Me failed English...
      FreeBSD over Linux. If my comments seem odd, this may explain...
    40. Re:Saving elsewhere by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      The dishwasher will not disinfect the dishes unless you use a disinfectant soap.

      Oh, so the little "certified sanitization" sticker means nothing? That it takes the dishes to 161F for 10 minutes (or whatever, I'm not looking at the manual at the moment) is not going to disinfect them? And how often do you wash dishes by hand in 161F or hotter water? I can't, given that I've never seen a residential water heater that would hit that temp.

      Your dishwasher is not an autoclave. Restaurant dishwashers use separate sterilizers.

      But theirs aren't autoclaves either. 161F for some time period is sufficient to be called steralized for home use, and that's what my dishwasher does. As do many now.

    41. Re:Saving elsewhere by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The question is merely asking what someone needs with that many computers and their associated power draw, not why they are refusing to live in artificial poverty. Don't escape the question by trying bash an absurd extrapolation of the argument you created.

    42. Re:Saving elsewhere by falconwolf · · Score: 1

      But why regress? I like my electric toys. They are what separate us from the animals. And what about all those electric cars the tree-huggers want us to drive? We need the nuclear power plants to provide that energy.

      In the US the Rockies alone contain enough potential wind power to provide the lower 48 states with all of the energy needed. Other states good for wind gennies are North and South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Texas, and California. In the Mid Atlantic and North East there are more states with good wind potential. Off the coast both Cape Cod and Cape Hatteras are good sites for offshore wind farms, unfortunately NIMBYs are fighting for wind farms in the capes. Then both CA and TX are also good for solar power as are Arizona, New Mexico, and Florida.

      Simply there is no need for any nuclear power plants.

      I fail to see why as a society we should revert to a colder, darker time when we have the technology to simply produce more electricity.

      With alternative energy sources there is no need to revert.

      Falocn
    43. Re:Saving elsewhere by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      i know how you feel. my wife said she needs 3 printers because they all do certain things that the others can't do or they all do certain things better than the others. she is a graphic designer. at the same time, i have 2 old desktops. one is MY computer. the other one i use for experimentation. one day, one of them will be trashed, i will upgrade MY computer, and my old computer will become the experiment station.

    44. Re:Saving elsewhere by toddestan · · Score: 1

      A lot of us here who have a whole lot of computers are actually helping the environment, as a lot of the hardware we have we rescued from going into the landfill. It's not like we are consuming excess amounts of resources to manufacture all these PCs so we can have our test networks if all of the computers came out of the trash heap (though those that leave dozens of PCs running 24/7 are not really helping things, my computers are off if they aren't being used for something).

    45. Re:Saving elsewhere by fredklein · · Score: 1

      Main PC- living room. General use.
      Second PC- bedroom. Useful for watching downloa... er, DVDs. Or letting the kid(s) play online. Or for the missus to play WOW on.
      "TVPC"- Tucked in under the TV, hooked to Cable wire. Used to playback downloa... er, record and playback TV.

    46. Re:Saving elsewhere by garwain · · Score: 1

      I for one have several customized systems. I have my laptop for day to day work, a desktop at home booting windows and debian for regular use.

      I have an old 486 running windows95 for testing programs for one of my clients who uses s similar system
      with a legacy communications board to communicate with production lines

      then there is one machine set up for optimum performance for photo/video editing

      a machine set up for optimum performance for sound editing

      An asterisk server so that I can have calls automatically routed to my cell phone if I'm not home (without needing to set up call forwarding all the time) and to allow me to make outgoing calls through my home /office line and take advantage of my unlimited talk time for my home number...

    47. Re:Saving elsewhere by DrSkwid · · Score: 1

      Just throw your plates away, no water at all then !

      --
      There are places where the networks are not touching,and there are places where they are-Boeing's Lori Gunter
    48. Re:Saving elsewhere by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Keep your guilt trips to yourself, thank you very much.

      (And FYI, you should have used "affect", not "effect" in your second sentence.)

    49. Re:Saving elsewhere by shiftless · · Score: 1

      The only people who give a damn about "killing all bacteria" on their dishes are people with compromised immune systems because they and their mommies spent way too much time worrying about bacteria and disinfecting things. I have an extremely strong immune system that I attribute to picking up and eating things I accidently drop on the ground, not disinfecting anything (ever), refusing to use hand sanitizer, eating without having washed my hands, eating semi-rare steaks and over-easy eggs, and generally NOT doing the things that stupid health freaks do. I almost *NEVER* get sick. I can be around people who are very sick with contagious crap and not catch it, and if I do, my symptoms are much milder and I recover more quickly.

    50. Re:Saving elsewhere by CRiMSON · · Score: 1

      I've got the following:

      AppleTV (media center)
      2x Linksys AP (running WW-DRT to make sure I get coverage anywhere in the apt old concrete buildings are weird, the AP is in the living room but I can't pick it up in the bedroom).
      1x Firewall (AMD Atlhon64 3500+)
      1x fileserver (AMD X2 4000+)
      1x My desktop (AMD X2 6000+)
      1x Wife's desktop (P4 2.8)
      1x Work laptop (MBP)
      1x Wifes laptop (Dell 1420)
      1x Xbox360
      1x Wii
      1x Dell 3500MP Projector (we use this as tv)

      --
      oogly boogly!
    51. Re:Saving elsewhere by Ngarrang · · Score: 1

      In the US the Rockies alone contain enough potential wind power to provide the lower 48 states with all of the energy needed. Other states good for wind gennies are North and South Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Texas, and California. In the Mid Atlantic and North East there are more states with good wind potential. Off the coast both Cape Cod and Cape Hatteras are good sites for offshore wind farms, unfortunately NIMBYs are fighting for wind farms in the capes. Then both CA and TX are also good for solar power as are Arizona, New Mexico, and Florida.

      And none of those areas want wind gennies mucking up their scenery. A lot of lawsuits have been filed over the last decade based on "loss of appearance" in a community.
      --
      Bearded Dragon
    52. Re:Saving elsewhere by falconwolf · · Score: 1

      And none of those areas want wind gennies mucking up their scenery. A lot of lawsuits have been filed over the last decade based on "loss of appearance" in a community.

      That's a problem with some who call themselves "environmentalists", they care about the environment as long as it's not in their backyard. I saw this a long tyme ago living in Florida. I met and talked with a bunch of transplants, those who moved there from out of state, who said they moved there to live in and enjoy nature. However when an alligator is found in their swimming pool built on what used to be a wetland they get all upset. Or they will when they see a gator eat their dog.

      Falcon
  2. Spreadsheet makes sense by LiquidCoooled · · Score: 1

    850 untis * 77.1 cents gives a saving of 100,000 mackerals.

    Excel 2007 FTW!

    --
    liqbase :: faster than paper
  3. SETI@Home by Czmyt · · Score: 3, Interesting

    I was running SETI@Home on all of my computers for a while until I realized that they use less power when the processors are idling as opposed to processing at full speed. Now I do not run any kind of volunteer processing like that. I can also see why it's a bad to install this kind of software at your place of employment. I wish that I could volunteer my computers' time without is costing me extra money to do so.

    1. Re:SETI@Home by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      ...until I realized that they use less power when the processors are idling as opposed to processing at full speed.

      Woah woah woah, Skippy. Where did you get this crazy idea from?

    2. Re:SETI@Home by warrenb10 · · Score: 3, Funny

      And in the final scene, the aliens arrive just after humanity has wiped itself out fighting over the last barrel of oil (or rod of U-235, or whatever) and remark how if not for that one computer that was taken offline we would have gotten their message explaining how to extract limitless energy from vacuum (as well as old episodes of TV shows) in time to avoid that.

    3. Re:SETI@Home by Czmyt · · Score: 1

      Here is one chart from ExtrmeTech that illustrates this: http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1697,1938042,00.asp

    4. Re:SETI@Home by WuphonsReach · · Score: 1

      I was running SETI@Home on all of my computers for a while until I realized that they use less power when the processors are idling as opposed to processing at full speed.

      Yes, the idea of using idle cycles to run programs like SETI@ without it costing you more is a hold-over from the late 90s / early 2000s. Back then, CPUs *didn't* have an idle state - so it was true that it wouldn't cost you more.

      Fast forward 5 years or so, CPUs (and GFX cards) now have idle states, power management, etc.

      --
      Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
  4. I saved! by monkeyboythom · · Score: 4, Funny

    I unplugged that appliance that measured my electric usage. However, the power company didn't see the benefit the way I did.

  5. love to see more of this by misanthrope101 · · Score: 5, Interesting
    There are many energy-saving questions I'd like to see investigated. For example, I have an old Subaru, and I'm not sure if I should buy a new fuel-efficient car. Mine isn't a guzzler, and I can afford a newer one. But that new car, even if it gets twice the MPG, costs energy to make--would an extra 20mpg offset the energy cost of making the car, and if so, how long would it take? Money aside, I don't know whether to keep the beater (which gets about 20mpg) or get a newer car.

    Also, what about TVs? I have a 19" old-fashioned TV. Cheap, and it works. But I'm looking at a 32" LCD. The LCD might pull less electricity, but would the difference offset the energy costs of making the TV?

    1. Re:love to see more of this by pinkocommie · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Craigs List? Or any other classifieds variants. You're making the presumption that both of those are going to waste when in both cases you'll be passing them on to someone else who would've gotten them from another source otherwise (which could be new or used)

    2. Re:love to see more of this by megaditto · · Score: 2, Informative

      If you want to estimate the manufacturing/energy costs, multiply the wholesale price by x2
      Then compare that to the estimated reduction of your energy bill over the lifetime of the item.

      If that LCD costs $100 but saves you $90 a year, then you will break even after about 2 years and start saving energy (and the Planet).

      --
      Obama likes poor people so much, he wants to make more of them.
    3. Re:love to see more of this by MobyDisk · · Score: 1

      The cost of the energy used to make the product is included of the price. If that new TV costs $500, then you know they used less than $500 worth of energy to build it. Since parts & labor are usually the most expensive part of a device, the energy cost is probably very small. But you can use the $500 as the upper-bound of the energy cost.

    4. Re:love to see more of this by MightyYar · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Parent is very insightful. Also, make sure your old items are recycled, which will at least partially offset the need to mine or pump new materials from the ground.

      When considering cars, there are other things besides CO2 to take into consideration. Older cars tend to emit more smog pollutants than newer cars, so local air quality should also be taken into consideration. Despite the current hype, CO2 is not the only type of pollution in this world. That's why I'm a little bit dubious of Gore when he seems to think that it is okay for his house to use so much energy simply because he buys carbon credits... What about strip-mining credits, mercury credits, sulfur credits, etc.?

      Then again, I still use some of those really inefficient halogen touchier lamps. I use CFL bulbs in the light fixtures that don't dim, but there's something really nice about being able to vary the light from intense and white for reading to warm and dim for movies or dinner.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    5. Re:love to see more of this by woztheproblem · · Score: 1

      Um, manufacturing/energy costs can't be more than the price of the item, otherwise the company would be losing money!

    6. Re:love to see more of this by hankwang · · Score: 2, Insightful

      But that new car, even if it gets twice the MPG, costs energy to make--would an extra 20mpg offset the energy cost of making the car, and if so, how long would it take? Money aside, I don't know whether to keep the beater (which gets about 20mpg) or get a newer car.

      Get the newer car. The CO2 emission for manufacturing a new car in the UK is 0.7 tonnes as of 2006, which is roughly 250 kg (300 liters = 75 gallons) of fuel. This is all thanks to the extensive recycling of cars. I don't know about the situation in the US, though.

    7. Re:love to see more of this by hankwang · · Score: 1

      If that new TV costs $500, then you know they used less than $500 worth of energy to build it.

      It makes quite a difference whether it's $500 in electricity or $500 of coal in an iron smelter.

    8. Re:love to see more of this by thogard · · Score: 1

      The plant in China that makes it pays far less for power than you do. I've seen figures that range from about US$.002 to $.04 per kW.

    9. Re:love to see more of this by explosivejared · · Score: 1

      Also, make sure your old items are recycled

      Especially given the recent developments in uncovering the way electronic waste is handled. Often times it is simply dumped, which allows all sorts of nasty stuff to get into the soil. Granted this happens in the third world most of the time. However, if you'll recall the lead used in Chinese made goods has actually been traced to electronics waste. So, RECYCLE FOR SURE!!!

      --
      I got a catholic block.
    10. Re:love to see more of this by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      RTFA?

    11. Re:love to see more of this by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Also, what about TVs? I have a 19" old-fashioned TV. Cheap, and it works. But I'm looking at a 32" LCD. The LCD might pull less electricity, but would the difference offset the energy costs of making the TV?

      I've seen some LCDs use almost as much or more power than a CRT of equivalent or slightly smaller size.

    12. Re:love to see more of this by bcattwoo · · Score: 1

      Parent is very insightful. Also, make sure your old items are recycled, which will at least partially offset the need to mine or pump new materials from the ground.
      Recycled in what sense though? If you sell your gas guzzler to someone else in favor of a more efficient model you aren't really reducing pollution at all. Would it be better to just send it directly to the scrapyard?
    13. Re:love to see more of this by Sporkinum · · Score: 1

      It's probably just me, but don't all Subarus (except the old Justy) get crappy mileage? 20mpg sucks. I'm sure you could buy a different beater for next to nothing that would get better mileage. An old S series Saturn is good for around 35-40 mpg, and has a plastic body that won't rust.

      --
      "He's lost in a 'floyd hole"
    14. Re:love to see more of this by gobbo · · Score: 1

      make sure your old items are recycled, which will at least partially offset the need to mine or pump new materials from the ground.

      Reduce-reuse-recycle, in that order: upgrade your old machine with more efficient software like Puppy Linux. You'll still get that temporary pseudo-boost of a getting-new-stuff feeling (hail mammon, the secret consumer $DEITY), or give it to a kid. As long as it boots from CD, has a fairly standard bios and motherboard, and 128MB of RAM, it will be easy to set up and feel as fast as a modern machine, with a typical set of productivity apps. Really quite amazing, how things can be repurposed, and reduce the need for new stuff, by 'changing the system'--this applies to lifestyle, as well as computer hardware.

    15. Re:love to see more of this by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      I guess the presumption is that your "old gas guzzler" is still a trade up from what someone else is driving, and that their even worse car would go to the recycle bin. A new, more efficient car entering the stream should always improve things overall.

      Of course, the opposite is also true... if you buy a less-efficient car than what you were driving before, you are making things in the stream worse. I guess that is a decent argument for improved CAFE standards.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    16. Re:love to see more of this by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If that new TV costs $500, then you know they used less than $500 worth of energy to build it. It makes quite a difference whether it's $500 in electricity or $500 of coal in an iron smelter.
      What if the electricity is generated at a coal burning facility?
    17. Re:love to see more of this by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      "Reduce-reuse-recycle"

      It has a tasty catchy quality to it, but I'm not so sure that the reuse and recycle bits aren't interchangeable. Your PC example is a good one to use in support of re-use, but take the argument to its extreme: should U of Penn fire up Eniac every time they want to multiply two numbers together, or should they invest in a pocket calculator with multiple times the processing power? :)

      Or, a more realistic example: My dad was using this old fridge from (no kidding) the 50s as his "beer refrigerator". There is no way in hell reusing that old beast was better for the environment than picking up a new, energy efficient fridge that paid for itself in about 2 years. You know, something with insulation :) Melt that beast down and make 5 modern refrigerators with the metal!

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    18. Re:love to see more of this by Technician · · Score: 3, Informative

      There are many energy-saving questions I'd like to see investigated. For example, I have an old Subaru, and I'm not sure if I should buy a new fuel-efficient car. Mine isn't a guzzler, and I can afford a newer one. But that new car, even if it gets twice the MPG, costs energy to make--would an extra 20mpg offset the energy cost of making the car, and if so, how long would it take?

      There is more to the question than just gas savings. Repairs and routine maintenance are another part as well as resale value. My wife and I both bought used cars in 2003. We both bought 2002 vehicles for $18,000. Hers has 80,000 miles and mine has 101,000 miles.

      Let's check current bluebook...

      2002 Dodge Caravan Roughly $6-8,000

      http://www.cars.com/go/crp/research.jsp;jsessionid=JOG2KH0OBPGX1LAYIESU2UY?makeid=12&modelid=127&year=2002&section=summary&mode=&aff=national

      2002 Toyota Prius Roughly $16-17,000

      http://www.cars.com/go/crp/research.jsp?makeid=47&modelid=2916&year=2002&section=summary&mode=&aff=national

      The Dodge has already needed a brake pad replacement, power steering service and other items. The Prius has no engine belts except for the AC. The power steering is electric, not hydraulic. I had the brakes checked at 80,000 miles when I changed tires. There was 80% remaining due to the use of regenerative braking.

      Just from the above, it is easy to see which is the winner on value.. and we haven't touched gas cost yet.. OK what about the gas?

      I bought the Prius used with 8,000 miles, so I have put on 101,000 - 8,000 or 93,000 miles since I bought it. Gas went from about 1.50 a gal to over $3.00 a gal. For sake of argument, lets use the average of about $2.25/gallon. I have averaged 46 MPG. I bought approximately 2,022 gallons for a cost of approximately $4,550. On the other hand the gas for the Caravan is over $10,000 spent. At over $3.00/gallon, the savings are more dramatic. For the same distance driven it is either a $30 fill-up or $70.

      People often argued that the cost savings in gas will not pay for the premium for buying a hybrid. If you drive a car that gets less than 1/2 that of the Prius and you drive it more than 100,000 miles, and you can still get gas for $2.25/gallon, then the argument is almost valid as this is the break even point on the additional price premium.

      I bought the car when the price of gas wasn't over $2.00/gallon. I studied them and found they are not new tech. They were on the road for 5 years in Japan before they hit the US market in 2001. I was impressed with the reliability and the elimination of most of the expensive over 100,000 mile failure items. Items like alternators, power steering pumps, hoses, starters and the like are eliminated. I also knew gas prices were going up and were never returning to under $1.00/gallon. Future gas prices meant future savings. A surprise was just how high the resale value is. That is an added bonus.

      One of the big scares of buying a hybrid was that big expensive battery. It is common knowledge batteries are useless after about 3 years in your cell phone, laptop, etc. I'm going to have to buy a $5,000 battery in 3 years... there is no savings as gas savings will need to be spent on a battery every 3 years. Part of my studies was to deal with just this fact. In digging I found the truth, and it's very nice and was the final item that got me to buy one.

      Here is the deal on the batteries... Cell phones, laptops and such deep cycle batteries.. BAD. You run them down past 50% and charge them up to the top.. Bad and bad.

      The hybrid keeps the battery under 80% and over 50% with almost no exc

      --
      The truth shall set you free!
    19. Re:love to see more of this by Skynyrd · · Score: 1

      Craigs List? Or any other classifieds variants. You're making the presumption that both of those are going to waste when in both cases you'll be passing them on to someone else who would've gotten them from another source otherwise (which could be new or used)

      Good luck getting rid of the TV.
      When I moved 4 years ago, I tried to get rid of a 19" color TV, with a remote, RCA inputs, attractive case (for a TV), good quality picture, etc. In short, a nice TV.

      NOBODY would take it. Not Goodwill. Not the Cancer Survivir thrift store. Not the HIV/AIDS thrift store. I drove it around for 25 miles, and made countless phone calls. Finally, I gave it to a friend who crushed it with a robot.

      Perhaps it was bad timing, or the wrong neighborhood, but I think people just don't want a 19" TV.

      Just wait for '09 and we'll see the rest of them in the landfills.

    20. Re:love to see more of this by hankwang · · Score: 1

      It makes quite a difference whether it's $500 in electricity or $500 of coal in an iron smelter.

      What if the electricity is generated at a coal burning facility?

      The price of raw coal is a minute fraction of the price of electricity. Coal combustion is about 30 MJ/kg = 8 kWh, or 3 kWh if you count the efficiency of a plant. Coal costs about US$ 50 per tonne [ref], so about US$ 0.017 per kWh electricity out of the $0.10--$0.20 you pay for your electricity. To put it differently, $500 in electricity produces as much CO2 as $50 in raw coal.

    21. Re:love to see more of this by edunbar93 · · Score: 1

      Google is your friend. If you put in the right combination of keywords, the answers to your questions will be answered.

      In particular, the pollution caused by making your car is less than 1/4 the pollution generated by the car over its lifetime (with both gasoline usage and car creation combined). There was a famous study that said a Hummer is gentler on the environment than a Prius, and it has been debunked several times over. Searching for "prius +hummer" in Google will yield the results you seek.

      Also, recycle your old TV. Lead is highly recyclable and makes up about 2/3 of the weight of your 19" TV. The recycled lead would probably be enough to build 1000 LCD TVs, and it's much more efficient to recycle lead than it is to smelt it from ore. You could also just as easily integrate your TV into your computer with a TV capture card, eliminating the need for a separate TV in the first place. Your monitor is likely larger than your 19" TV already.

      --
      "No problem. I have the capacity to do infinite work so long as you don't mind that my quality approaches zero."-Dilbert
    22. Re:love to see more of this by lupine · · Score: 1

      There are new compact florescent lights that are dimmable. They come in a variety of color temps from cool white to warm white.

      Super efficient led lights are also dimmable and are even more efficient at low current. The problem with updating your household to conserve energy is that electricity use is not apparent unless you continuously monitor your energy meter. I have seen electric monitoring units that will check one appliance(120volt) or will monitor your entire household, but they each have their drawbacks and it is time consuming to properly monitor & evaluate a households energy usage. In order to make conservation efforts a reality we need to help people make this more transparent, If they could see that the halogen light in the study was costing $5 per month they would see that the $30 lamp wasnt such a bargain and replace it. Retailers don't help as appliance energy usage information is often not provided or not easy to compare unless the appliance has an energy star tag. It would be better if every appliance & light bulb came with some sort of "cost of ownership" dollar value so that people could easily see how the lifetime energy usage of an appliance would impact their utility costs.

    23. Re:love to see more of this by monkeySauce · · Score: 2, Interesting

      You mean one with those 300 watt halogen bulbs that were so popular 5-10 years ago? Those things aren't lights, they are heaters which happen to illuminate their surroundings.

      I have CFL-equipped torchieres which put out a heck of a lot of light using only 38W. A strategically placed, bright white CFL could take care of the reading needs and for mood lighting, add a couple smaller CFL lamps (5-7W) and kill the other lights. You lose the infinite range of the dimmer, but turning on different combinations of smaller CFL lamps would get you different levels of illumination, and even all of those lamps on at once would use much less energy than one halogen torchiere on full.

    24. Re:love to see more of this by jbrax · · Score: 1

      Get the newer car. The CO2 emission for manufacturing a new car in the UK is 0.7 tonnes as of 2006, which is roughly 250 kg (300 liters = 75 gallons) of fuel. CO2 emissions are just a little part in the equation. It is far more eco-efficient to keep on driving with the old car than to buy a new one. Read about MIPS (Material Input per Service Unit) from here and here.
    25. Re:love to see more of this by hankwang · · Score: 1

      It is far more eco-efficient to keep on driving with the old car than to buy a new one. Read about MIPS (Material Input per Service Unit) from here and here.

      Would you mind giving me a more specific reference that, like, gives a table with meaningful numbers?

    26. Re:love to see more of this by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      Those things aren't lights, they are heaters which happen to illuminate their surroundings. So in cold climates you really aren't wasting any energy... :)

      Your solution for me might work - and it has occurred to me. However, here are my problems:
      1. I live in a New York City apartment - not much room for end tables and such. Floor lamps are the best option. To replace my single 300 or 500 watt halogen lamps, I would need two 42 watt CFL lamps, taking up space.
      2. 6 CFL floor lamps would cost $300 for crappy non-dimming ones. The cost goes up from there. That's a lot of money to make up for in efficiency gains, so financially it probably would never work out even using approximately 1/3 the electricity.
      3. Dimmed CFLs look terrible - almost the same as when I have my LCD monitor on in a dark room. Certainly nothing approaching candlelight for that warm feeling during dinner or movies.

      One thing I've considered is getting some wall-mounted fixtures, putting CFLs in them, and putting them on the light switch. If someone really wanted dim light, they would have to shut those off, walk over to the halogen and switch that on - so it would get used less. Still have to buy a bunch of fixtures for something that may or may not work out, though.
      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    27. Re:love to see more of this by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You know, you can get dimmable CFL torchiere lamps. They seem to vary quite a bit on how much dimming you can get, but I've got a GE model that has a pretty good range, although it doesn't get down to a level I'd consider "movie" dim.

    28. Re:love to see more of this by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      The dimmable CFLs look horrendous to me - like an LCD monitor left on in a dark room. Almost a spooky glow. LEDs are probably the way to go ultimately, but not until the price comes waaay down.

      Lamps are easy to figure out how expensive they are to run, though. Nearly every lightbulb I've seen indicates some degree of brightness - the CFLs all even have "wattage equivalents". To know how much it costs to run it, just look at the wattage. Or do you mean that they should do the math for people? I'd agree as long as they put the equation right there on the box to educate the masses. :)

      "100 watts x 1 hour = 0.1 kw-h x $0.10/kw-h = $0.01/hour"

      Seriously, a "typical usage" number might be more useful... assume something like 3 hours of use per day. Then an incandescent light bulb would say something like $11 on the box and the CFL would say $3 or so. Sort of makes the price advantage apparent, eh? But might mislead people who are going to run the thing infrequently. No reason to buy a CFL for the closet or attic.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    29. Re:love to see more of this by monkeySauce · · Score: 1

      Most CFL's are not designed to be dimmed, so you shouldn't try to do so unless the bulb specifically says you can.

      Obviously you have some constraints to contend with, but there has to be a better solution than a 300 (or 500!!) watt lamp. My torchieres are dual socket, and I have 23W CFL's in them, but according to my Kill-a-watt meter each lamp only draws 38W total. The light output of the two bulbs is theoretically equivalent to a 200W incandescent, and easily lights up the space in my average sized house.

      What about the coal that is burned to generate the electricity? The cost of inefficient lighting is greater than what's on your electricity bill. And did you say that you could NEVER make up the cost of new lamps/bulbs? Does that assume the new lamps fail quickly or something? I have had my lamps for years, and some of my CFL bulbs are over 5 years old. Did you also take into account rising electricity costs?

      Since the the bulk of the cost is sunk upfront, and electricity is only getting more expensive, you should be able to recoup the investment in CFL over time.

    30. Re:love to see more of this by rizole · · Score: 1
      This seems like a pertinent time to mention Freecycle.
      From the site:

      It's a grassroots and entirely nonprofit movement of people who are giving (& getting) stuff for free in their own towns. It's all about reuse and keeping good stuff out of landfills.
    31. Re:love to see more of this by mattack2 · · Score: 1

      However, if you'll recall the lead used in Chinese made goods has actually been traced to electronics waste.


      Cite?
    32. Re:love to see more of this by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      Most CFL's are not designed to be dimmed, so you shouldn't try to do so unless the bulb specifically says you can. Yeah, I guess my hang-up is that they get dimmer, but the light doesn't get warmer. What I really want is a light that gets redder as it gets dimmer. I suppose LEDs will be there in a few years, but they are expensive right now.

      What about the coal that is burned to generate the electricity? The cost of inefficient lighting is greater than what's on your electricity bill. Oh, I agree. But in this case, I'm not simply swapping out bulbs - that would be a no-brainer. There has to be an environmental cost associated with buying new lamps to replace the old ones... The touchier lamps that I have now would not accommodate a fluorescent, even if I put a socket in them - they are just too shallow. Since I only use the three lamps lets say a total of 5 hours collectively each day - and not at full brightness, we're probably talking about 1 kw-h/day or $36 per year. Even if I assume $60 per year that would let me save perhaps $40/year by using CFL bulbs. In 3 years I would have paid off the lamps, if I only buy 3 pretty crappy lamps. If it turns out that I need more, that extends the pay-off period.

      I still might do it if I weren't in an apartment - but it's hard to make a long-term commitment in a place I'm not even sure if I'll be in next year. Chances are that I won't be using cheap touchier lamps if I ever get into a house with a little more space.

      Like I said, the touchier lamps are my biggest environmental indulgence. Well, maybe my G5 - that sucker has to eat up some serious dinosaurs. I really need online storage that is cheaper than the electricity that I use to run the machine - then I could put my little photo album online instead of keeping it on the computer. That would save some serious power. I have 65 GB of pictures and videos that I share via a simple php script that constantly looks in my pictures folder and auto-generates a photo album. I've tried, and I'm just not willing to put in the effort to keep something like Flickr up-to-date, so I need an automated solution. I'm going to write a cron job to do it... one of these days :)

      Then the next thing I'd need is some way to wake up my computer when I want to ssh to it remotely, and some way to keep it from sleeping when I'm doing a download.
      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    33. Re:love to see more of this by misanthrope101 · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the info--it was this kind of post I was hoping for. I'll look at the Prius. It just seems to be a shallow field--either the Prius, or the Honda Civic Hybrid. I wish Mini made one! I might look at the Volkswagon TDI, but I'd like part of my money to pay for research into hybrids, not just more fuel efficient diesels. I'd get a Prius with an EDrive if I could afford it. The Smart diesel looks nice too, but I have two children who selfishly demand to ride in the car. :)

    34. Re:love to see more of this by Technician · · Score: 2, Informative

      It just seems to be a shallow field--either the Prius, or the Honda Civic Hybrid.

      You haven't been paying attention and it shows.

      http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/hybrid_news.shtml

      Toyota in addition to the Prius has the Highlander and Camry.

      Thanks for the info--it was this kind of post I was hoping for.

      You are welcome.

      --
      The truth shall set you free!
  6. Measuring your power by Lurks · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Decent little article. I decided to go on a similar drive and make our home (which serves as home office for myself and my wife) a little more efficient. I targetted a number of things including DC plug packs being left in idle, devices in stand by etc. What I did was measure the household electrical current draw by timing meter revolutions (old spinning type meters in near universal usage in the UK) before and after, and work out what was worth doing.

    I detailed my thoughts in this blog along with details of how to calculate power drain from the electrical meter in your home.

    1. Re:Measuring your power by meta+slash · · Score: 1

      The kill-a-watt (mentioned in other replies) is great, but if you have enough toys that they require more than one electrical outlet, as any self respecting geek does, you should get a whole-house monitor like mine. I have one and love it. It doesn't save you energy, but it's a better way to measure consumption than timing your meter revolutions. Now if only I could transfer that data to my computer.

  7. 90 whole dollars by Gothmolly · · Score: 1

    How much time and energy does it take to "save" 90 dollars? Maybe being cognizant of power consumption on new purchases is handy, but spending a weekend dicking around with stuff is a waste of money.

    --
    I want to delete my account but Slashdot doesn't allow it.
    1. Re:90 whole dollars by eln · · Score: 5, Insightful

      How much money does it cost to save that much energy as well? I kind of scanned the article, but one thing I did notice was that $200 was spent on a new LCD monitor to replace the CRT. If we assume 100% of the energy savings came from that one purchase (which it didn't), it will take more than 2 years to recoup the money spent on that one purchase, and there was no indication that there was anything wrong with the older monitor other than that it used too much energy.

      I would advocate buying newer more energy efficient equipment as your old equipment dies, but I would not advocate going out and replacing perfectly good equipment with more energy efficient (and more expensive) alternatives. It will not only cost you a lot of money, but will also mean more waste from throwing out perfectly good equipment that will likely end up in a landfill.

    2. Re:90 whole dollars by Spy+der+Mann · · Score: 2, Insightful

      How much money does it cost to save that much energy as well? I kind of scanned the article, but one thing I did notice was that $200 was spent on a new LCD monitor to replace the CRT. If we assume 100% of the energy savings came from that one purchase (which it didn't), it will take more than 2 years to recoup the money spent on that one purchase

      And for this reason, the government must subsidize energy-efficient monitors and TV's (like LCD's) so the change is viable for the consumer (and subsidizing the newest LED light bulbs wouldn't be a bad idea, either).

    3. Re:90 whole dollars by CohibaVancouver · · Score: 1
      but spending a weekend dicking around with stuff is a waste of money.

      I know it's an anathema to most Americans, but the idea with these initiatives should not be individual gain - Rather, it should be looked at as societal gain. It's like switching to compact fluorescent 'bulbs' - The savings on your *own* energy bill might only be a few dollars a year, but the savings to society as a whole would be huge, i.e one less coal plant, less dependence on Saudi oil or whatever. Same deal here.

    4. Re:90 whole dollars by graphicsguy · · Score: 1

      True. But "society" had better improve the availability of (and education about) proper disposal for CF bulbs. In a few years when all the bulbs sold in the recent surge wear out, most will probably go into the regular trash and landfill.

    5. Re:90 whole dollars by Tintivilus · · Score: 3, Funny

      I really got the feeling that this article was just his way of convincing his wife to let him buy a new monitor.

    6. Re:90 whole dollars by mh1997 · · Score: 3, Informative

      How much time and energy does it take to "save" 90 dollars? Maybe being cognizant of power consumption on new purchases is handy, but spending a weekend dicking around with stuff is a waste of money.
      I agree, too much time for so little a month in savings. Without checking squat, I bought a heavey duty appliance timer ($5 US on sale, not the kind for lamps, but large loads) and plugged in all my stuff into it. I now turn my computers off before I go to bed as opposed to standby, and the timer kills power about 30 minutes later and clicks on as I wake up. By killing power to my 3 computers, modem, router, printer, etc. I noticed an immediate $10 drop in my bill a month.

      My next $5 will be spent on a timer for my overly large tv, satellite box, surround sound system, (leaving the TiVo intact for late night recording)etc. to kill standby mode on that stuff as well. I am saving more passively than the guy is actively managing his power.

    7. Re:90 whole dollars by Sporkinum · · Score: 1

      The government doesn't do it, but the local power company does, at least for CFLs. You get an instant rebate when you buy them in the store, so they end up only costing $1 per bulb. They also pay you to get rid of old non energy star appliances. They paid me $80 to get rid of a couple of old air conditioners. Their only stipulation was that they were in working order so they were actually taking energy hogs out of service. I am also on a time of day meter, so any electricity used after 7pm is cheaper. I run the clothes dryer then.

      --
      "He's lost in a 'floyd hole"
    8. Re:90 whole dollars by kneemoe · · Score: 1

      and how much of his $90 saved is now used to heat that room during the colder months? I'm guessing its more than a negligible amount

      --
      My Sig Sucks
    9. Re:90 whole dollars by pthor1231 · · Score: 1

      You will TiVo late night recordings after the satellite box has been killed?

    10. Re:90 whole dollars by necro81 · · Score: 1

      Since when is a 2-year payback period a bad thing? That LCD monitor will probably still work fine after five years. Most businesses are thrilled to get 3- to 5-year paybacks on equipment.

      I agree with you on junking the old monitor, though. The author didn't mention what he did with it, but I'm guessing it went to the dump or, if we're lucky, a center that will break it down and reprocess it properly. Selling it to someone who would still use it would probably have been better.

    11. Re:90 whole dollars by falconwolf · · Score: 1

      I would advocate buying newer more energy efficient equipment as your old equipment dies, but I would not advocate going out and replacing perfectly good equipment with more energy efficient (and more expensive) alternatives. It will not only cost you a lot of money, but will also mean more waste from throwing out perfectly good equipment that will likely end up in a landfill.

      Yea, TFA writer says replacing his cable modem would only save 5 watts, but he'd have to drive 30 miles to pick up a new one, as his cableco Comcast wouldn't drop it off, so he decided not to upgrade it.

      Falcon
    12. Re:90 whole dollars by falconwolf · · Score: 2, Insightful

      And for this reason, the government must subsidize energy-efficient monitors and TV's (like LCD's) so the change is viable for the consumer (and subsidizing the newest LED light bulbs wouldn't be a bad idea, either).

      Instead of just subsidizing energy efficient appliances I'd rather see energy users pay for what they use, not let power generators pass Externalities or external costs to others. This would raise prices but would encourage efficiency. This brings up what Australia has done and what California is going to do, outlaw incandescent lights. Some companies are working on energy efficient incandescent lights however these laws discourage research into them. Making users pay more will encourage more research. Research may be able to develop an incandescent light more efficient than CFLs.

      Falcon
    13. Re:90 whole dollars by mattack2 · · Score: 1

      I presume he means separate DirecTV boxes, but the DirecTivo (combined Tivo/DirecTV receiver) left on.. or a Series 3/TivoHD to record OTA.

    14. Re:90 whole dollars by mh1997 · · Score: 1

      I presume he means separate DirecTV boxes
      that is correct.
  8. How about we ... by kihbord · · Score: 1

    all go back to using candles and get rid of all our gadgets (except mine of course). What say you?

    1. Re:How about we ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Candles cause a large number of house fires, and the resultant smoke and soot are not good for the environment. And a large number of destroyed houses makes a neighborhood look less attractive.

    2. Re:How about we ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      all go back to using candles and get rid of all our gadgets (except mine of course). What say you?


      I completely agree. In fact, I am posting this message to slashdot by banging piezo rocks together near a couple of salt-water (conductive) streams. But, I think candles are extremely wasteful technology and I use natural firefly technology to see in the dark.

    3. Re:How about we ... by Belial6 · · Score: 1

      Yeah. Just think how fast your internet connection would be with your computer being the only device connected to it! No more sharing of bandwitdth with anyone!. ;)

    4. Re:How about we ... by j_166 · · Score: 1

      "and I use natural firefly technology to see in the dark."

      pfft. Fireflies and piezo rocks? How extravagant. You must be one of those fat cats down at the power company. Me? I'm posting this via smoke signal protocol generated by burning my own feces. I use natural 'hands' technology to feel-around in the dark.

    5. Re:How about we ... by kihbord · · Score: 1

      Now, if I could only figure out how to power my computer using candles. :-)

  9. Larger scale by techpawn · · Score: 2, Informative

    For those of us who need to think bigger EnergyStar has a report and ways to cut energy usage for a whole data center... But energy saving starts at home.

    --
    Ask not what you can do for your country. Ask what your country did to you
    1. Re:Larger scale by ByOhTek · · Score: 1

      Although there's not much individuals can do about it, here's another look at the bigger pictures.

      --
      Self proclaimed typo king, and inventor of the bear destroying coffee table (patent not pending).
    2. Re:Larger scale by falconwolf · · Score: 1

      Although there's not much individuals can do about it, here's another look at the bigger pictures.

      Unfortunately TFA only talks about emissions from power plants. Though TFA says nothing about it Brazil is one of the biggest emitters of greenhouse gases including CO2. The form of agriculture practiced in Amazonian Brazil emits a lot of CO2 when "farmers" slash and burn the Amazon.

      Falcon
    3. Re:Larger scale by techpawn · · Score: 1

      Unfortunately TFA only talks about emissions from power plants.
      Actually, that depends on if you're in a regulated or deregulated market for your energy. If you're in a deregulated market you can find out what the competition is using and if you're that worried about it switch to the cleaner power supplier. Otherwise, you can figure out what percentage of that plants emissions you helped create and can reduce by conservation measures in your home/home office. You may think "Drip in a bucket" mentality here, but if everyone took that kind of initiative it would reduce the overall carbon footprint of the power plants.
      --
      Ask not what you can do for your country. Ask what your country did to you
  10. Kill-A-Watt by keithjr · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I've got one of these little guys on hand, and I swear by it myself. Much easier than trying to use an amp-clamp to find your AC current usage. Anybody interested in monitoring home energy usages should invest in one.

    1. Re:Kill-A-Watt by Spy+der+Mann · · Score: 1

      I used an AMP-CLAMP with a custom-made extension. Unfortunately it doesn't calculate the watts, you have to multiply by 127 by youself. But that saved me from spending over 70 Watts per hour (No wonder our electricity bill was so high).

    2. Re:Kill-A-Watt by toddestan · · Score: 1

      The Kill-A-Watt is nice, but I wish it had some more significant figures. The lowest resolution on the thing is 1 watt, which makes it difficult to measure exactly how much power those wallwarts, things in standby mode, and other low power devices are drawing.

  11. Kill-A-Watt and "80 Plus" by Rob+the+Bold · · Score: 4, Informative

    The Kill-A-Watt (and its competitors) are a handy item. I was surprised to find that my desktop PC was pulling 118W doing "nothing" and 139W when working pretty hard. Even more surprising, when I switched to Volt-amp mode, the numbers were 189 and 210 VA, respectively. My office is usually too hot anyway, so I figured that was a good excuse for a new power supply. I got an "80 Plus" power supply, and now "Hymie" pulls under 88W/89VA when slacking and about 95W/96VA breathing hard. The power factor correction isn't just a gimmick. The case is much cooler, and I unplugged several of the now-unneeded fans, saving a couple more watts. On top of that, my immediate desk area is more comfortable and quieter. See website http://80plus.org/ for more info on "80 plus" program.

    --
    I am not a crackpot.
    1. Re:Kill-A-Watt and "80 Plus" by AndersOSU · · Score: 1

      Just curious, how does 118/139 W translate to 189/210 VA?

      Wouldn't these devices simply measure voltage and current and multiply them to give watts?

    2. Re:Kill-A-Watt and "80 Plus" by Malc · · Score: 1

      Cool gadget hey. I found when my Creative Labs speakers are turned off they draw 75% of the power of when they're on. Extremely inefficient AC->DC converter, which is always warm.

      I wish power bars in N. America had individual switches per socket as seems to be fairly standard in places like the UK. Then I can completely power-down individual devices, but still use the power bar of other things.

    3. Re:Kill-A-Watt and "80 Plus" by thogard · · Score: 1

      Lookup "power factor". Most of what you will find involves resistive vs inductive loads but there are other power factor issues from switching power supplies that only kick in during part of the normal sine wave and that makes the grid much less efficient.

    4. Re:Kill-A-Watt and "80 Plus" by Rob+the+Bold · · Score: 1

      Just curious, how does 118/139 W translate to 189/210 VA?

      It's because it's AC, and the voltage and current are out of phase with each other. Usually this happens because the load is capacitive or inductive. In theory (perfect conductors), this reactive power should be returned to the power company, but in practice much is lost to heating. The ratio of W to VA is called Power Factor, which you want to be close to 1. Take in inverse cosine of the PF to find the actual phase mismatch. In my case, the power factor of the computer supply was lousy, about 0.66, and much heat was generated for no work done.

      --
      I am not a crackpot.
    5. Re:Kill-A-Watt and "80 Plus" by wiredlogic · · Score: 1

      Wal-mart carries a nifty receptacle mounted inline switch from GE that makes it convenient to selectively power down DC supplies.

      --
      I am becoming gerund, destroyer of verbs.
    6. Re:Kill-A-Watt and "80 Plus" by Malc · · Score: 1

      Cool. Wish it were the norm though.

  12. $90? Cost of new gadgets? by IBBoard · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Okay, so it saved him $90 when he replaced some items, but how much extra would you spend on the new items that you wouldn't otherwise spend?

    One great way to cut down your computer's power is to replace all of the big power-hungry graphics and processors with all these cheap and efficient ones like WalMart or whoever have been selling recently. Who volunteers to replace their nVidia 8800 with an on-board graphics card to save a hundred watts or so?

    It's a good idea, but it's either expensive in gadgets or will often need to cripple what you have. (Yes I know there are more efficient graphics cards now, but the general trend is more power hungry)

    1. Re:$90? Cost of new gadgets? by mathx · · Score: 1

      Amortize the new gadgets price over their lifetime * savings/year then you get the figure. Of course, out of sight out of mind rules, so the CO2 impact of producing all these *NEW* gadgets isnt in the article, or anyone's minds. This is why environmentalists call me a dinosaur for *KEEPING* my old car but driving it 5000km (only on long trips - all my city travel is mostly biking (or far less efficient) public transit). Buying a new hybrid car would cost me alot of money *AND* have generated far more CO2 in its production than me just keeping my old one (which still gets 13.3 km/l anyway) - and I will own no next car. $90 isnt enough to bother with, either. Power costs have to be FAR higher before people will bother. But its our RIGHT as citizens of the west to have cheap power, obviously. So it wont happen. And if it does, someone will get voted out of office for not giving us what we are entitled to.

    2. Re:$90? Cost of new gadgets? by Mattsson · · Score: 1

      What those power hungry gfx-cards needs are better powersaving modes.
      When doing almost anything else than gaming or watching video, most cards from the middle to late 90's will work just as fine as a bleeding edge card bought five minutes ago.
      A modern card shouldn't have to use more than a few watts, if even that, when idle.

      --
      /.Mattsson - My native language is not English, so please don't whine over linguistic errors. (That's lame anyway...)
  13. Sensible by niceone · · Score: 1

    The main lessons from TFA seem to be: get rid of CRT monitors (my last one died this year and was replace with an LCD) and turn things off when you're not using them - sensible stuff just about anyone could do.

    1. Re:Sensible by gEvil+(beta) · · Score: 1

      The main lessons from TFA seem to be: get rid of CRT monitors (my last one died this year and was replace with an LCD) and turn things off when you're not using them - sensible stuff just about anyone could do.

      Yes, sensible, but how many slashdotters have figured this out for themselves? I'm reminded of the people who leave the water running while they brush their teeth.

      --
      This guy's the limit!
    2. Re:Sensible by fbjon · · Score: 3, Informative

      The main lessons from TFA seem to be: get rid of CRT monitors Another lesson from me: don't use screen savers at all, use power saving that turns monitors off after 15 minutes. If you have several hard drives, make sure they turn off too after some suitable period of time, especially if one of them is dedicated to storage and not used continuously. Also, the power saving on my AMD dual core drops the power draw from 120 Watt idle to 95 Watt idle for the whole system. "Idle" is of course not quite idle, downloading torrents and web browsing still keeps the processor largely at 1GHz, without bumping it up to 1.7 or 2.3GHz. Graphics card is a decent 7800GT with only a heat pipe, no active cooling.


      Additionally, I have a radio remote controlled master power button, to which I've connected all monitors, speakers, chargers, and everything else non-essential for running the computer. This makes it easy to kill all power while still leaving the computer on. A bit more power could perhaps be saved by using an even better power supply, but not buying it will probably save more money and environment.

      --
      True confidence comes not from realising you are as good as your peers, but that your peers are as bad as you are.
    3. Re:Sensible by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      This time of year you can pick up a wireless surge protector from Target or from one of the lumber stores. They are meant for wirelessly turning on/off your Christmas tree lights, but they work great for having a bunch electronics hooked up to a single switch.

      I have everything in my entertainment center plugged into it, and the remote sits semi-hidden on the coffee table. The surge protector is hidden under the cabinet. At one point I figured that it would pay for itself in a year and a half. I have a similar setup for my computer, and everything is set up to turn on when I click on the power switch.

    4. Re:Sensible by dbIII · · Score: 1

      It depends on the monitor. The Sony CRT I recently picked up second hand (at $1 per kilogram) uses well under a watt in standby which is a big improvement on my previous one. It looks like Xorg is set to put screens into standby by default in the current version.

  14. Only $90/year???? by rimcrazy · · Score: 4, Informative

    Give me a break. Turn your house up 1 degree in the summer and down 1 degree in the winter and you will save more money than that!

    --
    "TV, a medium as it is neither rare nor well done." Ernie Kovacs
    1. Re:Only $90/year???? by mdalal97 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Why not do both? It is not that hard to reduce your consumption. Turn off your computers at night, unplug unused power bricks (for cell phones, cameras, chargers, etc...). It is easy. Just because it appears to be a relatively small benefit, it doesn't mean you shouldn't do it.

      I thought the article was OK, but it did seem like he we dwelling on the 'sacrifices' he had to make... really, how hard it is to turn off your computers when you are done for the day. It is not difficult to make the changes needed to reduce consumption.

    2. Re:Only $90/year???? by Belial6 · · Score: 1

      Just be careful not to follow this advice too many times...

    3. Re:Only $90/year???? by noidentity · · Score: 1

      Give me a break. Turn your house up 1 degree in the summer and down 1 degree in the winter and you will save more money than that!

      Why not combine both?

    4. Re:Only $90/year???? by graphicsguy · · Score: 1

      unplug unused power bricks (for cell phones, cameras, chargers, etc...).

      So why do people keep recommending this stuff. I actually measured my unused power bricks with my handy, dandy, kill-a-watt, and they use nothing when there's no device connected to them.

    5. Re:Only $90/year???? by Luyseyal · · Score: 1

      It's usually the cheap-o gi-normous ones that are heat islands. They can be designed, as you have discovered, to only pull juice when their parent device is plugged in. The problem is that this is more expensive to the manufacturer than the Chinese wall wart special which is why so many companies use the craptacular ones.

      -l

      --
      Help cure AIDS, cancer, and more. Donate your unused computer time to worldcommunitygrid.org. Join Team Slashdot!
    6. Re:Only $90/year???? by Zadaz · · Score: 1

      Maybe where you live. Where I live I don't spend $30 a year on climate control. I only close my windows when it rains.

      However I did drop my electric bill by $10-$15 a month when I stopped watching TV. Amazing how it all ads up.

    7. Re:Only $90/year???? by Doctor+Faustus · · Score: 2, Funny

      Give me a break. Turn your house up 1 degree in the summer and down 1 degree in the winter and you will save more money than that!
      When I suggest turning down the thermostat to my wife, she points out that she would have to put clothes on. That's usually where the discussion ends.

      I suppose that tells you where energy conservation falls in my priorities...

    8. Re:Only $90/year???? by Woogiemonger · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Turn your house up 1 degree in the summer and down 1 degree in the winter and you will save more money than that!

      For some, including myself, 1 degree higher or lower can really make someone uncomfortable in his/her own home. However, I learned that in the winter, a bit of cardio exercise can really mute this effect. I find that I need my house at 73F during the winter, but after a jog outside, or a bit of time on the treadmill (however much that uses up in energy), I can lower the thermostat down to 65-68F or lower for the night, no problem. I also improve my health and fitness, which is perhaps the most important factor for /. readers. :)
    9. Re:Only $90/year???? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This depends on the brick. Power bricks for laptops use switching power supplies which are very efficient even with little or no load. Most wall worts use transformers instead. These are far less efficient under load and consume a considerable amount of power with no load. Since switching supplies only cost a little more than transformers based supplied, I'd love to see a government mandate or at least a voluntary energy star kinda thing.

    10. Re:Only $90/year???? by sootman · · Score: 1

      Turn your house up 1 degree in the summer and down 1 degree in the winter...

      a) jacks to raise one side of the house are very expensive
      b) plus I'm not sure if my foundation could take it
      c) even at just 1 degree, small objects would all roll to one side of the house.

      --
      Dear Slashdot: next time you want to mess with the site, add a rich-text editor for comments.
    11. Re:Only $90/year???? by autophile · · Score: 1

      Give me a break. Turn your house up 1 degree in the summer and down 1 degree in the winter and you will save more money than that!

      Yeah, but what if you're already doing that?

      --Rob

      --
      Towards the Singularity.
    12. Re:Only $90/year???? by turing_m · · Score: 1

      "So why do people keep recommending this stuff. I actually measured my unused power bricks with my handy, dandy, kill-a-watt, and they use nothing when there's no device connected to them."

      You want to make sure that the kill-a-watt can actually measure less than 5W. The 240V version doesn't.

      To test this, you need to have a power strip plugged into your watt meter, then plug an incandescent lamp (or anything else that is basically just a resistor) into the power strip. Note the power used. Then plug in the power brick you want to measure, note the difference between the two power figures as being roughly the power used (suspect it might be different due to different power factors, too lazy to verify).

      It was only by doing this that I learned that these cheap and useful power meters have some limitations.

      --
      If I have seen further it is by stealing the Intellectual Property of giants.
    13. Re:Only $90/year???? by turing_m · · Score: 1

      "unplug unused power bricks (for cell phones, cameras, chargers, etc...)."

      Another thing you can do that makes this a lot easier is to buy power strips with individual switches. They're cheap. That way you can leave all your wall warts plugged in, you just switch stuff off when you are done.

      --
      If I have seen further it is by stealing the Intellectual Property of giants.
    14. Re:Only $90/year???? by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      unplug unused power bricks (for cell phones, cameras, chargers, etc...)

      Why? I took every one of those I could find, put them on a bunch of power strips chained together and measured the output at the wall. It was measured as zero. When they aren't charging or powering something, mine take no measureable electricity. Do many of the really take lots of electricity, or is that just a myth that someone started becuase they figured they had to be sucking something down?

    15. Re:Only $90/year???? by senileoldfart · · Score: 1

      If you are heating your house when the weather is cool, you can pretty well ignore energy expended by your computer, TV, range etc. as it's just going to be made up by your heating system. On the other hand, if you are using your AC to cool you're going to pay twice. Once in the device, and again to extract the heat from your house. If we are going to be precise about this we need to consider relative cost of electricity vs. heating fuel and other factors, of course, but the above is close enough for government work.

  15. you didn't read the FA? by someone1234 · · Score: 2, Informative

    It said the new LCD was better on the eyes. I think it worths $200 to not ruin your eyes...
    But i agree, he probably spent 5x more to save $90.

    --
    Patents Drive Free Software as Hurricanes Drive Construction Industry
  16. Old and Power Hungry by rueger · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Not a bad article, but really his primary problem was that he was running some pretty old gear - a big CRT monitor and an old Laserjet. Once he dumped those the pickings were pretty slim.

    It's like those folks that hang onto a twenty year old fridge, keeping it in the basement for beer. Just because it's "free" doesn't mean it's doing you any favors.

  17. False economy by jointm1k · · Score: 1

    What he saves on his electricity bill, he will have to spend on his heating bill.

    --
    You know it makes sense, a little reminder from jointm1k.
    1. Re:False economy by Rob+the+Bold · · Score: 3, Informative

      What he saves on his electricity bill, he will have to spend on his heating bill.

      Where I live, electricity is about twice as expensive as natural gas for heating, so heating with waste heat is not quite as economical as one would think. Plus it's an extra liability in cooling season. But when I heated with resistive electric in an apartment, I too didn't worry too much about leaving things on in the wintertime.

      --
      I am not a crackpot.
    2. Re:False economy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Only in the winter. In the summer it'll save his air conditioning.

    3. Re:False economy by Kelson · · Score: 1

      What he saves on his electricity bill, he will have to spend on his heating bill.

      Depends on where he lives. If it doesn't get particularly cold in winter, or if hot days outnumber cold, then it won't be a problem. And as another poster pointed out, it could save energy on air conditioning.

      I live in Southern California, where heating costs over the course of a year are negligible, but cooling costs can get pretty high during summer... and sometimes spring, and during the usual October heat wave, and I remember one time I moved during the week between Christmas and New Year's, and it was the hottest December day I'd ever experienced.

    4. Re:False economy by rrkap · · Score: 1

      Beyond this, if your house is reasonably well insulated, you shouldn't ordinarily have to heat it except to warm it up when you've been away for a while. If you find that your heat has to be on every day during the winter then better insulation can save you a bunch of money.

      --
      I like my beverages with warning labels!
    5. Re:False economy by myz24 · · Score: 1

      Where do you live? My body can't heat a 2400sqft home when it's -20F.

    6. Re:False economy by bcattwoo · · Score: 1

      Where do you live? My body can't heat a 2400sqft home when it's -20F. He must have a 100sqft apartment with R-50 insulation throughout in Florida.
    7. Re:False economy by ChrisA90278 · · Score: 1

      "What he saves on his electricity bill, he will have to spend on his heating bill."

      True only if ALL of the following is also true and all true at the same time:

      1) His house uses electric heating or something else that
            costs even more.
      2) The heater is actually running.

      So there is very little change of saving on heating cost
      unless you happen to be running electric heat.

      In the summer the oposite of what you say is true. If he is
      running AC his savings are doubles because not only soes he
      save the wated energy he also does not have to run the AC to
      remove the wate heat

    8. Re:False economy by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      Electric furnaces are more than 100% efficient. Gas furnaces, though about 80% efficient, cost less for the fuel. So, he will save on heating bills by getting rid of resistive heating sources. Not to mention that he will save greatly on cooling bills.

  18. Wasn't there an article on power switches? by CambodiaSam · · Score: 1

    I seem to think that any one of the power switches featured in a previous article would do nicely to reduce power consumption. Something about disabling electronics with the extreme prejudice of a "thud" followed by the lights flickering tells me that I'm going to save some cash.

  19. Energy efficient != good technology by RandoX · · Score: 2, Insightful

    If my old Commodore64 used less power than my Pentium IV I should switch back? What about if a CRT uses less power than my new HDTV of similar size? Sometimes there are other reasons to choose a product than simply power consumption.

    1. Re:Energy efficient != good technology by Volante3192 · · Score: 1

      What about if a CRT uses less power than my new HDTV of similar size?

      That'd be one sweet bit of CRT technology.

  20. Try saving USD1000 per year! by DamonHD · · Score: 1

    http://www.earth.org.uk/low-power-laptop.html

    And the site is hosted by the new equipment!

    Rgds

    Damon

    --
    http://m.earth.org.uk/
  21. "targeted the energy pigs for replacement" by SlipperHat · · Score: 1

    Methinks slaughtering those energy pigs, roasting them, then consuming should save the home some power. Bonus points, if you roast them using their own fat as cooking fuel. (ouch - no one said environmentalism was not ironic).

  22. The problem implicit: no value for the individual by skoda · · Score: 4, Insightful

    The author spent $200 to buy an LCD monitor to replace a 19" CRT, saving $18 / yr electricity: more than a five year payoff. And he's putting a CRT into a landfill somewhere. There's no economic incentive to buy an LCD; savings are pocket change and doesn't realistically pay for itself. And the environmental cost could be a wash, since the reduced carbon footprint is weighed against a CRT dumped in the trash.

    This article is fun, and I might play a similar game at home. But people chasing $90 in electricity is nearly trite compared to the real energy users: home heating and cooling and clothes washers and dryers. Globally, this is spitting in the ocean compared to the real change that's (presumably) neeeded.

    It's reported that eliminating coal-mine fires (http://freakonomics.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/10/22/from-bagels-to-coal-fires-an-unorthodox-economist-keeps-pushing-for-change/) would reduce CO2 emissions annually equivalent to that produced by all cars and light-trucks in the US. There's little value in individuals replacing 3 W cable modems for 2 W versions when the "easy" targets are still ignored.

  23. Your home UPS may help here by e9th · · Score: 1

    Mine reports watt use via a USB link to mfgr-provided software. I run the program on a laptop plugged in elsewhere when I'm measuring.
    Not quite as spiffy as a Kill-a-Watt (instantaneous readings only), but still very useful.

  24. The power company is going to owe me money by tompaulco · · Score: 2, Funny

    I've replaced a bunch of bulbs with compact fluorescents. If I believe the packaging, I will save more money in a year on my lighting costs than I normally spend in a year on ALL of my electrical needs.

    --
    If you are not allowed to question your government then the government has answered your question.
    1. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by reaktor · · Score: 1

      My power bill instantly went down ~$35 a month by switching my entire (very small) house to C.F. bulbs. They are only 15W compared to 60-100W bulbs! You can usually buy a large 3-6 pack of the C.F. bulbs as they are fairly cheap in that sort of a deal.

    2. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by thogard · · Score: 1

      I have a Lux meter and a power meter and a test rig and a large assortment of bulbs... The savings from CFL isn't much and the amount of real light they produced isn't what the packages claim and they reduce their light output faster than older bulbs. It appears that the light output is based on their highest intensity point as if the entire bulb produced that (like the incandescent bulbs). Most of the non twist designs put out 1/3 the light on the end as the brightest part of the side and the twisties tend to produce less total light but are more consistent. I started by testing 20 bulbs I got from a local K-mart and grocery store and have since collected a few more. The best so far have been LED or halogen and the worst was ones are CFLs. Good quality long life incancesdents are in the same range as mid tier CFL. CFLs dim rapidly (to being useless based on their stated output in less than 1000 hours) while old bulbs would last 1000 hours at nearly full intensity 50% of the time (and 0% intensity 49.999% of the time)

    3. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by plague3106 · · Score: 1

      So get the twist designs. I found a 25W one I believe from GE that was brighter than the 100W bulbs we had before. I've had some well over two years now, and there is no noticable dim.

      Don't buy the cheap crap ones from Home Depot or KMart; get a decent CF bulb.

    4. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by virtual_mps · · Score: 1

      Good grief, how many lights do you leave on all the time?

    5. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by CommandNotFound · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I've had horrible luck with CFLs for primary lighting. I have used them for years in lamps that stay on for long periods of time, but for areas like the kitchen or for primary lighting, every brand has been a dud. The main problems are the 1-5 minute warm up times and the eerie lighting quality. Saving money and power is a good thing, but I gave up on CFLs earlier this year when I wasted $12 on two can light CFLs that were useless the first 5 minutes, and after full warmup were NOT as bright as the incandescent 65W bulbs next to them. I placed them in the basement office which has no windows, and for the first 30 seconds it was about as bright as taping a couple of gameboy units on the ceiling (I'm not joking). Nobody wanted them, so they are sitting in a landfill somewhere now, and I lost out on about 120 KwH of elecricity (we were running about $0.10/KwH here). I wonder if they could change the CFL to consume 50-60W to "heat up" in a second or two, and then ramp down.

      In the past I've had brands that failed after a year or two, or buzzed. I wish there was a site that had hands-on reviews in real-world conditions, and even more importantly, where to buy the units. For now I'll stay with incandescents for primary lights, with CFLs in lamps and "mixed in" with incandescents, and just not leave lights on when they are not needed.

    6. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by skintigh2 · · Score: 1

      There is a HUGE variation in the quality of CFLs. I bought one that flickered to life for about 10 seconds. I returned it. Walmart and other cheap places sell bulbs that take 1 to 5 minutes to gain full brightness. I've returned those, too. Others turn on instantly.

      Look for bulbs that claim to turn on instantly with no flicker. If they don't perform as claimed, take them back or exchange them. You aren't helping anyone by buying inferior products and then throwing them away. You can often get them in 4 packs for $10, or even free after rebate.

      CFLs can be finicky. If you put them in a hot recessed can that can potentially shorten their life, but mine have been fine for years. As for your basement, CFLs don't like cold and take a long time to warm up due to low energy waste, so if you live in the North you might have to stick to 19th century bulbs down there, or regular fluorescents.

      I just had one CFL burn out that I bought in 1999 +/-. I had others die after a few months, usually when used outdoors. I love them, though. Not only do they save me 75% on lighting, but they save me on air conditioning too, which in south Texas is pretty expensive, e.g. $250 a month. And you can really feel the difference at my kitchen table with 5 60w bulbs blazing away.

      I used to have incandescents with photo switches outside, until one day I realized it would be 50% cheaper to run CFLs 24/7 than to run the incandescents just at night. Then I found a CFL-safe timer on Amazon for more savings.

      CFLs rock. I can't wait until LEDs are cheap.

    7. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by A+beautiful+mind · · Score: 1

      As others have said there is huge variance in CFLs. I bought one made by General Electric and it sucked, took way too long to reach optimal brightness (5 mins). On the other hand, I've had good experiences with Philips and CFLs from the A or A+ energy class. Good warm colours, no flicker, almost instantenous switch-on, low mercury content (
      In this case the old adage of "the more expensive is cheaper" holds true.

      --
      It takes a man to suffer ignorance and smile
      Be yourself no matter what they say
    8. Re:The power company is going to owe me money by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      The main problems are the 1-5 minute warm up times and the eerie lighting quality.

      Well, buy more, try them, and take back what doesn't work. The only CFLs I have used that don't turn on instantly are the ones that I use outside. They take 1-5 minutes to get to full brightness when it's sub-freezing out. Unless your house is a little cold, you should have them kick on under 5 seconds or they are broken. All of them in my house (and I have more than 20) come on to full brightness in under 5 seconds, and are at 50-80% brightness in under a second.

      I have had a problem with buzzing in new CFLs (less than a month old, I didn't notice the buzzing the first week or I'd have taken my own advice and returned it), even though I've been told it's impossible. Also, my CFLs used in sealed lighting fixtures last about a month. I had to change light fixtures. With a more open design, the heat doesn't burn out the electronics anymore. You'll never see good long-term reviews because so many people are like me, I tried out some things, I don't remember which is which or what I bought when. I have no useful data, other than glowing good and dark bad.

  25. $90 a year! by brkello · · Score: 1

    I can retire at 40!

    --
    Support a great indie game: http://www.abaddon360.com
  26. I have another way of saving electricity by ODD97 · · Score: 5, Funny
    I built a system that turns off my lights when I blink. My blinks last approximately 1/4 second, and I blink roughtly 20 times per minute, saving me 5 seconds per minute, or 20 seconds per hour. That makes 160 seconds (2 minutes) per workday. over the course of a year, that's 16 minutes of power waste that I am avoiding without changing any equipment significantly.

    ... of course, alligator-clipping the blink sensors to my eyelids stings for a little bit, but you get used to it really fast. It's a small price to pay to save the world.

    --
    The emperor is naked.
    1. Re:I have another way of saving electricity by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Oh, how I wish I had mod points!

    2. Re:I have another way of saving electricity by graphicsguy · · Score: 1

      It's even better than that! 5 seconds per minute is 5 minutes per hour! That's 40 minutes per workday. That's 200 minutes per week, and 163 hours per year (assuming 3 weeks vacation). Now, in all fairness, I think your blink length and frequency is substantially above average.

    3. Re:I have another way of saving electricity by ca111a · · Score: 1

      How do you address the issue of blink synchronization when more people are present? A loud sudden clap might work, will force most people to blink. An added benefit of course is that you can use The Clapper to turn the lights on and off instead of using that sensor on your eye.

    4. Re:I have another way of saving electricity by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      Indeed. Also, you should switch all your lights for spotlights on computer controlled turrets with cameras. Set them up to track your head, and only turn on when they're pointed at the back of your head. Then you won't be wastefully illuminating the bits of the room you're not looking at.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    5. Re:I have another way of saving electricity by Dripdry · · Score: 1

      Actually, if you get down to it, it costs more power to switch an incandescent light on and off than it does to simply leave it on, so you'd probably pay more.

      --
      -
  27. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0


    Coal mine fires will be eliminated by individuals. They will be individuals who operate coal mines, or run coal mining companies, or regulate the coal mining industry. But each and every one of them will be an individual.

    There is no need, nor any possibility, of "leadership" in sustainable living because "leadership" always means "coercion", and coercion is unsustainable. Even the more benign forms of government intervention, like subsidization, are unsustainable.

    Sustainable environmental change will only come when the way we bill for energy usage is changed, such that the first few hundred kWhr are relatively cheap and the rest get progressively more expensive. This would recognize that energy is as necessary as food for modern life, but still punish gluttons. Taxing energy usage or carbon dioxide production would of course be as unsustainable as any other coercive action unless it was done as part of a large-scale shift in the tax code as proposed by Ontario's Green Party (in that case the coercive nature of the tax code remains constant, but the burden is shifted from environmentally friendly activities to less friendly ones.)

    In any case, every watt anywhere is always used by an individual for the purposes of that individual or under the orders of that individual. Anyone who says, "There is nothing an individual can do" is saying, "There is nothing to be done." On the contrary: reducing your own individual energy use is all that there is to be done. Everything else is just wanking.

  28. Compact fluorescents by MillionthMonkey · · Score: 3, Informative

    In terms of grams of CO2 per candela, a candle has a carbon profile worse than that of an incandescent bulb. Beeswax candles are an exception but most paraffin wax is derived from petroleum.

  29. Watts vs. VA by name_already_taken · · Score: 3, Informative

    Multiplying Amps by 127 doesn't take power factor into consideration and gives you VA, not Watts, unless your load is purely resistive. It can give you a vague idea of whether you're saving any power or not, but not always since electronic and inductive loads can draw current at different parts of the AC waveform such that a clamp ammeter won't show.

    There's a short explanation of the difference here: http://www.powervar.com/Eng/ABCs/CalcVAWATTS.asp

    --
    Putting moderation advice in your .sig lowers your karma!
    1. Re:Watts vs. VA by thogard · · Score: 1

      For the types that want to cut CO2 the VA is a better indicator since that is more related to waste on the in the power lines and generators than W.

      How do you go about calculating how much coal a device with a power factor of .65 takes compared to a device that takes the same Watts but has a power factor of 1.0?

    2. Re:Watts vs. VA by Smidge204 · · Score: 3, Insightful

      In an AC circuit with inductive or capacitive loads, Volt-Amps does NOT equal Watts.

      To use the common Beer analogy:

      Volt-amps drawn by the device is the size of a beer mug. Watts used by the device is the amount of beer in the mug. VAR (reactive VA) as the amount of foam in the mug. Your Power factor is therefore the percentage of beer in the mug. Problem is, you pay for beer by the mug (1 pint each, say). If you want 3 pints of beer but each mug is 35% foam (PF = 0.65), you pay for 4.6 mugs.

      So, if you have two devices that take the same number of "Watts" then PF=0.65 device is costing you 1 watt but delivering 0.65 watts of performance. If you only need 0.65 watts of performance you can replace it with a theoretical PF=1.00 device that costs 0.65 watts.

      In other words, the two devices in your question must have different outputs (same 1 watt input and different PF) and are therefore not equivalent.
      =Smidge=

    3. Re:Watts vs. VA by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      No, you don't. You pay for beer by the pint. The power company eats the loss from washing and keeping all those extra mugs due to the foam. (well technically, they fold that into your cost, but it's not your usage that counts it's the average of everybody's usage) Also, they may charge a surcharge if you're power factor is extreme.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    4. Re:Watts vs. VA by Smidge204 · · Score: 1

      I think we're using different meanings of the verb "pay/buy" here. I'm using it in a thermodynamic sense, you're using it in a monetary sense...

      =Smidge=

  30. Sometimes, the device is not the problem by F1Rumors · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Rather, the brick that converts the AC to DC is inefficient.

    My savings came from taking an efficient computer power supply (80-85% efficient, depending on the load) and running my own 12V and 5V supplies direct to the devices that use those voltages [includes: cable modem, wireless router, usb hub, network disk, a GPS/VHF radio and a camera]. When I can be find time to finish the job, I'll do the maths and buy the parts to add 19V and 6.8V for two other devices.

    In practical terms: I no longer have a collection of bricks generating heat, so I waste considerably less energy; I plug only one device in to the UPS, eliminating a lot of wires, so the installation is simple and tidy; and there's a bonus: the fan on the power supply keeps air moving over the equipment whenever heat builds up...

    1. Re:Sometimes, the device is not the problem by evilviper · · Score: 1

      When I can be find time to finish the job, I'll do the maths and buy the parts to add 19V and 6.8V for two other devices.

      Wiring 12V+ to 5V+ will give you 7V, which should be more than close enough to 6.8V, as long as this isn't a massively power hungry device, you should be fine.

      19V isn't so easy.

      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
    2. Re:Sometimes, the device is not the problem by JimFive · · Score: 1

      I like this idea. Do you have any references where I could learn what I need to do this. Also, how much do I need to worry about the current. For example, I have a device that says 12VDC 200 mA If I built a multiuse brick out of a power supply, how would I ensure that the current won't fry my device. -- JimFive

      --
      Please stop using the word theory when you mean hypothesis.
    3. Re:Sometimes, the device is not the problem by F1Rumors · · Score: 1

      Good point on the 7V - I'll just do that. Regarding the 19V, the power supply also has -12V and -5V available, so in principle it is +12 to -12 plus a resistor & diode for regulation down to 19V. Except for the rather significant problem that the 19V device wants up to 5A, which is greater more the rating on the -12V rail!

    4. Re:Sometimes, the device is not the problem by F1Rumors · · Score: 1

      My references are "'O' level electronics", which I studied a fair few years ago now! If you understand the circuit for a regulated DC power supply, the remainer is trivial. Regarding power consumption: basically, your device draws power, so the power it uses is defined by its demand, not the other way around. Problems occurs if you put the wrong voltage in to it - ie, 110V straight in to a 12V device will fry it!

    5. Re:Sometimes, the device is not the problem by evilviper · · Score: 1

      Yes, unfortunately the negative rails are always very low power, hence it not being so easy to get 19V... -12V seems to exist only because of the odd electrical signaling used by RS-232 serial ports.

      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  31. Hand down that old CRT rather than tossing it. by adminstring · · Score: 2, Insightful

    You make a good point about heating and cooling being bigger offenders than office electronics, and focusing on them first. Adding insulation and replacing (or at least caulking) leaky windows is another good move which could save you hundreds of dollars in energy each year.

    The article didn't mention him putting the CRT in a landfill - I suspect he ended up donating it or giving it away. There are a number of charities out there which take obsolete computer equipment, test it, and give it to nonprofits or low-income people. Or you could give it to Goodwill or post it on Craigslist, where it will end up with someone who needs a monitor and might have otherwise bought a new one. If it exists in your town, you could even freecycle it. This is a great way to keep things out of the landfill - it's a lot more efficient than donating to a thrift shop for specialty items. When someone needs something in particular, they don't have to go to a dozen thrift shops looking for it, they just do a computer search or post a request.

    --
    My truck is like a series of tubes.
    1. Re:Hand down that old CRT rather than tossing it. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Nobody wants an old CRT. Ten years ago, sure, people would pick up monitors on the side of the road even if they burst into flames when plugged in (as the scorch marks would indicate). These days, even throwing them out can be a problem (it will often cost you money just to have the trash company pick them up). About the only way to get rid of one is to give it to a bored college student and pretend that you don't know that it is about to get thrown off a roof.

    2. Re:Hand down that old CRT rather than tossing it. by adminstring · · Score: 1

      Apparently you live in a community where even the poor people can afford nice new LCD monitors. That's great, however, most of the country (and most of the world, for that matter) is not in that boat, and I have never had a problem finding someone to take a working CRT off my hands. There is a also a local recycling center in my city that will take non-functioning CRT monitors for free and recycle them. Obviously this isn't the case in many places, so YMMV.

      --
      My truck is like a series of tubes.
    3. Re:Hand down that old CRT rather than tossing it. by toddestan · · Score: 1

      How long ago was this? I find you can't give away CRTs anymore, even nice, like-new flatscreen Trinitrons now that LCDs are below the $200 mark. Most charities won't take them either, because they don't want to get stuck with the disposal costs if they don't work. And I suspect that they too have problems giving them away. CRTs are too bulky and heavy to ship too, meaning that local is really the only option to get rid of them.

      Of course, I could be living in one of those nice areas, as I've found working *LCD* monitors in the trash.

  32. What I'm looking for is... by FellowConspirator · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Two things, really. A power supply where the individual outputs are switchable via USB (go to sleep, printers, USB hubs, etc shut off) -- at the very least that cuts power to all outputs when one output's load drops (i.e., the computer turning off cuts power to everything else plugged into the switch). The other thing I'm looking for is a single higher-efficiency power adapter that would replace the multitudinous little bricks with a multi-output brick.

    Put those things together and you could easily drop power consumption 30-50% in a setup like that.

  33. False economy? by TheLink · · Score: 1

    90/year is better than nothing BUT he spent a fair bit of money for those savings.

    While monetary price may not be the most accurate measure of resource consumption, with the fairly low margins on many computer products I suggest that it's not that far off. USD200+USD130+USD65 of monitor+modem+printer does include the energy and resource cost of building them (and nowadays some products include the cost of recycling or trashing it).

    Basically I doubt many of those items are priced much cheaper than the energy and resources used to make them. Sure there could be distortions but I'd need to see more proof that saving USD90/year of electricity by immediately buying USD400 of stuff is so much better than waiting for your old stuff to actually stop working first or become genuinely inadequate for your needs. The way I read it, USD44 of the savings were achieved just by turning on power management on his machine.

    A lot of consumer grade computer equipment stops working within 5 years anyway. So if you're say spending USD400 every 3 years (USD133/year) instead of 5 (USD80/year), where's the bulk of your USD90/year savings going? If you exclude savings from power management to try to get savings from buying that new stuff, then you might be talking about only USD40+/year "savings" which is negated by you spending an extra USD53/year (USD133-USD80) because you are buying stuff more often.

    If you have an SUV, switch to a smaller car and you'd save a lot more.

    If you want to be more cynical, this story is just more slashvertising that encourages yet more consumerism. "Buy that new LCD monitor", "Buy that new printer", it's good for the environment. Blah blah blah.

    --
  34. I just got one of those... by Belial6 · · Score: 3, Informative

    This article is kind of timely, as I just got a Kill-A-Watt on Tuesday for the purpose of measuring office equipment electrical usage. What I found was that my old Athlon64 3200+ (1 gig of memory) was drawing 100 watts idle, while the new Athlon64 X2 5400+ (2 gig of memory)that I just got to replace it runs at 40 watts idle. Given that I am paying $0.32 kwh for my top usage, that comes out to a $14.29 savings per month by purchasing the new, noticeably faster machine. Given that I paid $150 for the motherboard/processor/video card/memory upgrade, in 10 months, the machine will have paid for itself if both would have been left to sit idle. The normal usage numbers are 120/77 watts which comes out to a $10.07 a month savings if both machines were run under normal loads 24/7. The new system also has WAY better power management, so I'll actually use it. This means that when I am not using the system the numbers will be 100/5 watts, and a savings of $22.25/month. Based on my usage patterns, I expect about $15 a month in savings.

    After seeing these numbers, I decided to check out my wifes machine. Her system has the known Windows bug that makes it go to the "It is safe to shut down your system" message instead of actually shutting down when the computer is instructed to shut down. This combined with her usage pattern of sitting down and looking things up for 5 minutes, then walking away for the computer, and coming back 2 or 3 hours later to spend another 5 or 10 minutes on the system, means that getting her to turn off her computer when not in use is simply not an option. There is no way I am going to convince her to wait the 3-4 minutes waiting for it to boot up, and another 3-4 minutes waiting for it to shut down, to get 5 minutes of use out of it. Her machine runs at 110 watts idle, and 150 watts under normal load. Given that the new motherboard has suspend that actually works, 99% of the time her system could be running 5 watts with, again, better functionality. This would lead to a savings of $22.25 per month in savings. This would mean giving her the same upgrade would pay for itself in ~7 months. You can bet I am going to do that very soon. I expect that my son's system is only slightly more efficient than my wifes, so his will likely follow shortly after.

    1. Re:I just got one of those... by jsight · · Score: 1

      Given that I am paying $0.32 kwh for my top usage, that comes out to a $14.29 savings per month by purchasing the new, noticeably faster machine.


      Wow, where are you that is .32/kwh? That's pretty high.

      Around here, .09 is common.
    2. Re:I just got one of those... by Belial6 · · Score: 1

      California. They scale the cost with how much use use. The scale goes:

      First 345.1 kwh = $.11430
      Next 103.53 kwh = $.12989
      Next 241.57 kwh = $.22722
      Next ???.?? kwh = $.31719

      I don't know how high they can go above that.

    3. Re:I just got one of those... by SuperQ · · Score: 1

      For windows, you should enable ACPI suspend to memory.. this would provide an instant-on function, while saving 90% of the power while sleeping. You could even enable it so she doesn't have to do anything but walk up to the computer and hit the keyboard.

      I've got 2 computers at home right now, one that is a 24/7 server (mythtv, slimserver, big raid storage), and a shuttle desktop PC. I upgraded the server a few months ago from a dual athlon 1600+ to a dual core X2. This let me ditch 5 PCI cards, and one CPU socket. It also let me enable CPU clock ramping. This reduced the power usage of the machine from ~200W to 130W. Pretty good for a machine with 5 SATA drives, and a decent PCIe video card. Recently I've been thinking about buying a nice long 30' DVI cable and some USB repeater stuff to extend the console from the basement to my office on the first floor. This would let me eliminate the desktop PC entirely. I just wish Cat5 KVM extenders were cheaper. Best I've seen is around $500-600 for a gefen DVI/usb extender

    4. Re:I just got one of those... by Belial6 · · Score: 1

      Unfortunatly, her system will not allow suspending. I don't know if this is a problem with the BIOS (setting is tuned on in BIOS), the motherboard as a whole, or is related to the bug in Windows that leaves her in the AT power supply shutdown screen instead of turning off the ATX powersupply. Whatever the reason, the power management screen in Windows does not have the option to suspend.

      I will also be looking at converting my server to a more power efficient system. I believe that running my Domino and file server on one of these new systems should require no more power than my desktop. This would reduce it's power consumption from 100 watts to ~45 watts.

      I will also be using my decommissioned machine to get familiar with MythTv. In the past, it was difficult to get all the pieces to work right. I'm hoping that it will be easier now than 2-3 years ago. This would allow me to Replace my 2 ReplayTVs which run 24/7 with one server that runs 24/7 (with less power), and a few silent front end units that can actually be turned off when not in use. I am really hoping the MythTv works out. My current plan of using ultra low power front ends, (probably booting from compact flash) and a more powerful back end to handle the recording, should make the install noticeably simpler than the last attempt which entailed trying to get everything running on one machine. The one piece that I do know is missing is that my Dish Network tuners use RF for the second tuners. I haven't been able to find any LIRC hardware to control those. I suspect that I will end up using this Basic Stamp I have here to receive a simple serial command, and wire it to to the button pads of an actually Dish Network remote control.

    5. Re:I just got one of those... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Buy her an Everex Green PC, $199:
      http://www.everex.com/

      You can leave it on 24/7.

      Green
      Imagine a computer that averages just 2 Watts of power consumption and operates at a whisper quiet 28dB...

      Sell yours on ebay to recycle to another user.

  35. Refrigerators & Freezers in the Garage!!!! by Mike18067 · · Score: 3, Informative

    I have a small 1200sqft home and my electricity bill is over $400 per month. We went around the house and tried to figure out the biggest hogs. Nothing seemed off par until I went into the garage and noticed that the fridge and freezer were running. So I sat down for awhile with a book and listened. It was summer and these things were running 25 minutes out of the hour. Then i went inside the house and it was no more than a total of 10 minutes and hour. I disconnected them for 2 months and saw my bill drop over $125 a month! I no longer have them in my garage. I later read that they should never be in a garage unless it is climate controlled. I bought a bigger unit for my house and no longer need them anymore.

    --
    Mike18067
    www.slipcoverhome.com
    1. Re:Refrigerators & Freezers in the Garage!!!! by Wolvie+MkM · · Score: 1

      Yikes that's still pretty high Mike. At least from my perspective, my last 3 bills have been about 50$ a piece for a 1400sq/ft house.

      But in my case with no family to have the lights on for constantly nor do I need my TV running for several hours a night (barring a Sens game night).

      I've flipped most of my non-dimming lights to CFL's, I rarely use my desktop anymore I'm usually using the notebook which saves a boatload of energy. The rest of the house is on power bars to eliminate that "Phantom" draw.

      Try buying a Watt meter to see what other appliances/devices in the house are drawing the extra!

      Cheers

      --
      I Like Pie...
    2. Re:Refrigerators & Freezers in the Garage!!!! by Mattsson · · Score: 1

      You also have the added benefit of having the waste-heat from the compressors heating your home instead of your garage, lowering your heating-cost.
      Unless, of course, you live in a climate where cooling is more important than heating.
      In that case you've added another source of heat to cool. =)

      Also, making sure that the seal between the fridge/freezer door and the box is whole and clean can spare you quite a lot of compressor time.

      --
      /.Mattsson - My native language is not English, so please don't whine over linguistic errors. (That's lame anyway...)
    3. Re:Refrigerators & Freezers in the Garage!!!! by Duck+of+Death · · Score: 1

      I once replaced an old 1978 model refrigerator with a newer, late 90's (at the time) model and saw my electric bill drop by 20%. The old monster must have been drawing a TON of power.

      My parents said recently that their electric bill had gone into the $250/month range during a time when they didn't use heat or air conditioning and they don't have an electric hot water heater. Where was it going? They had been running a dehumidifier in their basement - another appliance that uses a lot of electricity.

      The people dismissing the guy's 90/yr savings are missing the small point that he only did this for his home office - basically one room. What about the rest of the house? I changed 8 lightbulbs, made sure the PC is off at night and try to keep the lights off when not needed and my usage dropped 20%. At the rate I'm paying, this has translated into $400 in 2 years. I reduced my gas consumption by changing my driving habits to increase my mileage and reduce the amount I drive. I save about 70 gallons per year as a result (I only drive about 8000 miles and drive a high mileage car, so there was not a whole lot of opportunity here). I am now tackling the big fish: home heating. I live in a large, 200 year old house and I spend a lot of money generating heat and trying to keep it in the house. Added insulation, sealing cracks, and heating via south facing windows and sunlight have helped reduce consumption noticably, but I'll be make more changes with the goal of reducing oil use by 25-30%. So I'm saving about 200/yr on electricity, 200/yr on gasoline and so far about $250/yr on home heating for a total savings of $650 or so per year with more to come.

      None of what I've done has had any effect on our lifestyle. The thermostat is set at the same temperature, but less heat leaks out of the house. We still use the same amount of light, but we use more efficient bulbs and try to make sure the lights are off if we're not using them. And we still use our computers, but we make sure they're not humming away at night while we're sleeping.

      DD

      --
      "Can I finish? Can I finish? ... Okay, I'm finished."
  36. Intelligent motherboards ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I wish appliances such as motherboards and monitors could deliver information about Wattage in addition to temperature. That info would be stored near the BIOS and could be read at any time by software (in kW h).

  37. 240 volts by Skapare · · Score: 1

    In the USA, the standard voltage is 120 volts. Virtually every computer power supply and these days the power supplies of most auxiliary equipment can operate on 240 volts, either with a flip of a switch, or through autoranging which usually supports 100 volts (as in Japan) through 240 volts (as in Australia, UK, etc). 240 volts (or in some cases 208 volts) is usually available for special circuits using opposite alternating polarities. Most equipment will operate slightly more efficiently on 240 volts. There is also less power loss in the wiring due to the lower average current. While this might only amount to a 2% to 4% overall savings, it is something to consider. Note that the use of a transformer to step the voltage up to 240 from 120 will lose some or all of that savings, so this only works if you and wire the 240 volts up directly.

    There are a few problems with this that won't be readily solved unless there is a big market demand for this. One of them is that the way 240 volts arrives to your home in the USA is different than in places like the UK. The USA gets 2 opposite polarities at 120 volts relative to ground that combined have a difference of 240 volts relative to each other. The UK gets 1 polarity of power and a grounded neutral wire. That means things like surge protectors have to be wired differently. So just buying surge protectors from UK will leave you less protected, or in some cases not even work at all. Equipment to handle power distribution and protection with the USA style of 240 volts is hard to find and expensive when you do (usually because it is designed for very large appliances like a 50 amp electric stove, or the whole house). A UPS for this voltage (usually listed as 208 volts because that is what many business offices get since that's the voltage between 2 phases of 3 phase power in the USA) is usually a very large device (3 kVA and up).

    It's a chicken and egg problem. The right equipment won't be made unless there is a market. The market won't come about without the right equipment.

    There is one advantage of the USA style of 240 volts that neither the 120 volt circuits in the USA nor the 240 volt circuits in Australia an the UK have. This is "balanced power" (an equal but opposite voltage on each wire, relative to ground, and no current on the grounded wire) which greatly reduces the level of hum that can get into audio equipment, especially sensitive sound studio equipment. This can only solve the hum problem for equipment that can use 240 volts (otherwise the hum problem would have to solved using a special balanced 60 volt system that delivers 120 volts).

    But we can at least get started despite some of these difficulties. I just wish they would make a 240 volt version of that "Kill A Watt" meter mentioned in the article.

    --
    now we need to go OSS in diesel cars
    1. Re:240 volts by Rick17JJ · · Score: 2, Informative

      I look for the new 80 Plus rating whenever I buy a new power supply for a computer. The 80 PLUS performance specification requires power supplies in computers to be 80% or greater energy efficient at 20%, 50% and 100% of rated load. Many computers come with much less efficient power supplies. I used an 80 Plus rated power supply in the most recent computer that I built. On my slightly older computer, the power supply recently died and I replaced it with an 80 Plus rated power supply.

      Another problem is the energy consumption of inefficient auxiliary equipment with transformers which consume power even when the device is off. Those cheap poorly designed external transformers are sometimes called "vampire taps." The Smart Strip Power Strip could probably help there. When the Smart Strip senses that you've turned your computer off, it automatically shuts off your peripherals, too, preventing them from drawing an idle current. It does that by sensing the flow of electrical current through the strip's control outlet.

      By the way, I live in the U.S., where we use 120 volts.

      What is 80 PLUS
      Smart Strip Power Strip

    2. Re:240 volts by pilbender · · Score: 1

      While much of what you say is true, one of the biggest reasons for 120V over 240V is safety. 120V is typically not lethal. 240V is different because it will kill more readily. At what point do you stop this line of reasoning? Why not 440V? Or 880V? It's more efficient, uses less copper and copper is expensive now, and the savings are undeniable.

      You mentioned the savings and infrastructure but it is also much safer to use low voltage. What you envision will never happen in the US because the return on investment is not there. I think it would be humorous to see someone try and change the infrastructure of the US and decrease the safety for an overall savings of 2% to 4%.

      --
      Fresh horses and more whiskey for my men.
    3. Re:240 volts by dwywit · · Score: 1
      WTF? "120VAC is typically not lethal"

      I suggest you check out the electrical code for your jurisdiction.

      Where I live, the cautions start at 36 volts.

      As an alternative, you might google for "electrical safety in the home".

      My understanding of the reason for not going above 240VAC in the home is the tendency to arc at switches, and all the bother that can cause.

      --
      They sentenced me to twenty years of boredom
    4. Re:240 volts by Nicolay77 · · Score: 1

      I have touched live wire at 120V. It felt very shaky.

      I know of someone who have touched live wire at 240V. He was badly burned and had to go to the hospital. Nothing of that sort happened to me.

      If I had touched both live and ground, one in each hand, it could have been lethal, going through my heart.

      However, I touched a live 120V wire and nothing happened to me. So I agree with the GP and disagree with you.

      --
      We are Turing O-Machines. The Oracle is out there.
    5. Re:240 volts by pilbender · · Score: 1

      Thanks for sharing your experiences. I've had the same experiences. I've never touched 240V because I've heard to many stories. I'm afraid of it. I've been hit by 120V countless times. It's not good, but it's no big deal. So yeah. It's typically not lethal because I'm still here responding to dwywit's nonsense.

      But hey, he my point in his own post when he talked about arcing. Higher voltage is harder to control for a bunch of different reasons and he only mentioned one.

      Sounds to me like the the guy has no experience with A/C electrical work. Anyone can look up information on how something is done but it's quite another matter to have experience doing it.

      --
      Fresh horses and more whiskey for my men.
  38. Brother HL2040 by FuzzyDaddy · · Score: 1
    I have a brother HL2040 laser printer, which has been great. The only thing is that when it kicks on to print a page, our incandescent lights dim.

    Yes, this is a bit offtopic...

    --
    It's not wasting time, I'm educating myself.
  39. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by plague3106 · · Score: 1

    The author spent $200 to buy an LCD monitor to replace a 19" CRT, saving $18 / yr electricity: more than a five year payoff. And he's putting a CRT into a landfill somewhere. There's no economic incentive to buy an LCD; savings are pocket change and doesn't realistically pay for itself. And the environmental cost could be a wash, since the reduced carbon footprint is weighed against a CRT dumped in the trash.

    $90 / yr / monitor in a business setting is a big deal though. And you assume he tossed the CRT instead of having it properly recycled. I don't see why you'd assume that.

    This article is fun, and I might play a similar game at home. But people chasing $90 in electricity is nearly trite compared to the real energy users: home heating and cooling and clothes washers and dryers. Globally, this is spitting in the ocean compared to the real change that's (presumably) neeeded.

    $90 * 100 million homes = $9 billion / year. Not trival at all.

    It's reported that eliminating coal-mine fires (http://freakonomics.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/10/22/from-bagels-to-coal-fires-an-unorthodox-economist-keeps-pushing-for-change/) would reduce CO2 emissions annually equivalent to that produced by all cars and light-trucks in the US. There's little value in individuals replacing 3 W cable modems for 2 W versions when the "easy" targets are still ignored.

    If it were "easy" to put out a coal fire, don't you think we would have done so already? Letting it burn underground is a waste; mining it and burning it at a plant at least provides some value. Ideally, we should be able to do both.

  40. Folding... by Rooked_One · · Score: 1

    I can't help but wonder how much electricity we are wasting with people leaving their boxes on (for a good reason mind you) but wasting a bunch of it at the same time.

    1. Re:Folding... by Ant+P. · · Score: 1

      I used to run Folding@Home on 3 of my PCs (P4, Athlon, Athlon XP). I don't have the numbers written down, but it was somewhere between 50-100W per CPU. The old Athlon was the worst for power use since its power use/temperature barely dropped at all when idling.

  41. Home Cooling Savings by rotenberry · · Score: 1

    In some places (the southern United States, for example) people cool their homes for six to seven months a year, and every watt used in a home office costs an addition 2 to 4 watts to remove from the house just to maintain a constant temperature. Add to the $90 a year he would save directly an additional $200 in indirect savings for home cooling for these places.

  42. Stop spending money to make moisture evaporate by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

    The biggest power sucking appliance in most houses: the clothes dryer. These puppies can suck down 4000 watts or more.

    The secret that appliance companies don't want you to know: clothes dry themselves. It's true!

    I went out and bought a $28 drying rack, which is big enough to dry one load of clothes. Even when the weather is cool, heavy clothes only take a day or so to dry. I haven't used a clothes dryer in over a year.

    If it's 10c per kW*h (I don't know the exact price offhand), and I do 1 load of laundry a week, I'm saving 4 kW*h = $0.40/week or $20/year. (Actually, I recently moved into an apartment complex where the dryers cost $1.00 to use, so I'm saving $1.00/week.) It look like my drying rack has already paid for itself.

    1. Re:Stop spending money to make moisture evaporate by barzok · · Score: 1

      A gas dryer is a lot cheaper to operate than an electric one. If you must have a dryer (and if you've got kids, you NEED one), the extra $50 up front to get gas instead of electric (assuming you have a gas line to the laundry room already) pays off in a hurry.

  43. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by Rick17JJ · · Score: 1

    I switched to more energy efficient computer hardware, but did not just suddenly go out and buy new computer hardware all at once. I waited until each item became semi-obsolete or quit working, then I replaced it with a more energy efficient replacement. Perhaps the author should have suggested that people do it that way.

    There are other advantages besides just saving money. For one thing, during power failures, my computer can now run much longer from UPS power. There is at usually least one thunderstorm, every summer, which knocks out the electricity for an hour or more. There are also usually other thunderstorms that are so loud and close, that I pull the power plug and unplug from the Internet, to avoid damage. I can now keep on working longer from UPS power while waiting for the worst part of the storm to pass.

    An energy efficient computer is also usually quieter, because less powerful fans can be used.

    With my purchasing choices as a consumer, I am sending a message to manufacturers that energy efficiency counts. I do not want a 500Watt power supply and dual power hungry high-end video cards. By purchasing energy efficient products, I am telling them that I want good performance with minimal power consumption.

    One thing that the author did not mention was 80 PLUS certified power supplies. They are much more energy efficient that many of the other power supplies. I used one of those when I built my latest computer from scratch. Like the author, I also use a Kill-A-Watt meter. I also save energy by using CFL light bulbs.

  44. replace things on its own time by doublefrost · · Score: 3, Informative

    Don't replace things to save energy. Just make energy conscience choices when the time comes to replace things.

  45. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by Luyseyal · · Score: 1

    But people chasing $90 in electricity is nearly trite compared to the real energy users: home heating and cooling and clothes washers and dryers.

    Of course, people forget that computers cause air conditioners to cycle more frequently. Here in Austin, TX, that is a real issue. Sure, way up north, the heat is efficient in the sense of a space heater. We don't need those very often. :)

    I ran the numbers and running my machine at home for my website, email, etc. was costing me more than running it on a cheap web hosting service mainly due to the cooling issue. I lost a small amount of flexibility, but gained a cooler home. Easy trade-off in this part of the country.

    -l

    --
    Help cure AIDS, cancer, and more. Donate your unused computer time to worldcommunitygrid.org. Join Team Slashdot!
  46. From my measurements by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    A slowed down CPU (P4 or Athlon w/speedstep or similar technologies) won't save much. What really made the difference for me were video cards and rotating hard disks. While most ordinary PCs would draw around 100-150 watt, monitor (lcd) included, a high end video card could double that figure alone. Also, while an idle disk draws around 5 watts, a rotating one will need 20 or 30; more when spinning up. A misconfigured RAID set could draw easily 100 watts or more.

    Beware of the tip where the author suggests to let the disks spin down after 15 minutes. Hard disks aren't built to be spun up and down too often and this figure could cause a probable mechanical failure before its time. I'd choose (and used for years for my disks) longer periods like one hour or two.

  47. Not worth it - by syrinje · · Score: 1
    Very likely it cost in time, effort and expense, a lot more than 90 bucks amortized over 10 years to accomplish this alleged saving.

    Not to mention that the environment, instead of being impacted over 10 years, got impacted now because of the raw material/resources/energy needed to manufacture said replacements - and the accompanying collateral contamination - you don't really think fluirescent lamps have benign contents do you?

    --
    See that long UID - that's what you get for lurking too long
  48. A Real Challenge: Commit to 5% reduction PER YEAR by mathx · · Score: 1

    This is my goal. So far Im on track. It'll get harder once 2010 rolls around though... (when I started in '05, I was doing 5% power reduction per quarter, but those days are over.) Once you're into the 30% range, lifestyle changes must occur, and thats where it'll stop for 99% of westerners. Their right to a marginally more comfortable lifestyle at exponentially increased energy footprint is written into the constitutions of their countries.

  49. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by nojomofo · · Score: 1

    The author spent $200 to buy an LCD monitor to replace a 19" CRT, saving $18 / yr electricity: more than a five year payoff.... There's no economic incentive to buy an LCD

    Your understanding of economics is poor. Give me an investment opportunity where I'm guaranteed to make my money back in 5 years and it will continue to grow at least that rate after that, I'll put everything that I can into it, even if it's only "pocket change". In 5 years he will have made that money back and after that, it's gravy.

  50. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by SoapDish · · Score: 1

    The savings in power from replacing the CRT were $18/year, not $90. Assuming no time-value of money, it would take 11 years to pay it off. It takes longer, of course, if there is time-value (interest). Not many LCDs really have that lifetime, so money-wise, you're not saving any.

    In terms of energy, it takes energy to make the LCD, transport it, and to recycle the CRT (rather than dump toxens into a landfill). How much of the $200 pays directly for the energy? Does $18/year, or even $90/year really pay it off?

    This is why people say it's trivial. In many cases, there's no gain by replacing working equipment.

    Sometimes there is, though. His office lighting used 370 watts (twice his office equipment). In terms of energy and cost, it would probably be worth it to reduce that. My home office uses about 40W of lighting for general use, 90W when task lighting, which happens less than once a week. So, if he saved on lighting, that's between 280W and 330W or 2.24-2.64kWh in an 8-hour day (provided you use the lights in day-time).

  51. Time is money by Trixter · · Score: 1

    I'm a husband, father, and computer hobbyist extended into at least three niches -- my time is worth a hell of a lot more than my money. $90 a year doesn't seem worth the 2+ hours it takes to identify and replace the devices, unless you've got nothing better to do...

    1. Re:Time is money by turing_m · · Score: 2, Insightful

      "my time is worth a hell of a lot more than my money."

      And... you're posting on slashdot? On a subject you really couldn't care less about? Something's not adding up here.

      --
      If I have seen further it is by stealing the Intellectual Property of giants.
  52. There have been studies done on this by wsanders · · Score: 1

    One of my professors in college was Chief Scientist at GM for a while and wrote some papers on this in the 80s or 90s. I don't have the citations, but there was not a lot of benefit to buying a new car just for a 20 or 30 percent improvement in mileage back in those days. However, these days, a large portion of a car gets recycled, and new cars are made from a lot of recycled materials, so there is probably some benefit if you can double your mileage or thereabouts.

    And, how much do you drive? I have a 99 Cr-V which only gets 23 mpg. I consider that a guzzler, but I only drive it 3000 miles a year.

    The basic point is that the "marketplace" is pretty efficient - a car has a large variety of materials in it, including energy, so the cost of production pretty much reflects the envionmental cost of producing it.

    20 mpg is not very good mileage these days, and if you have an old Subaru it will eventually spew oil everywhere (trust me, I used to own one.) I say upgrade if you can afford it and you drive a lot.

    --
    Give a man a fish and you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish, and he'll say "WHERE'S MY FISH, YOU IDIOT?"
  53. But what about BOINC? by singingjim1 · · Score: 0

    So what then do I do about keeping my BOINC projects humming along? Isn't the Search for Extra-Terrestrial Intelligence or Folding@Home, even Einstein@Home more important than saving a few measly dollars per year on my electricity bill? What if $90 is what I spend for coffee in a month without blinking an eye? Why would I care about $90 in a year? Is my home-office carbon footprint really THAT big? I'm thinking not and certainly not at the expense of my BOINC stats. I'm in the top 99.6 percentile for cryin' out loud! I'll pollute our landfill with mercury from my CFLs but I'll be damned if I'm going to have my BOINC status take the hit for a future that I'll never see.

  54. I have one laptop by gelfling · · Score: 2

    I leave it on all the time. It takes too long to boot. Sue me. My wife uses one desktop, likewise. Sue her too. My son, ditto. We have one wireless router, one MTA for Voip, one print server, one printer. If I save a few watts will that make up for my neighbors 60 inch home theater?

  55. lights by falconwolf · · Score: 2, Informative

    Then again, I still use some of those really inefficient halogen touchier lamps. I use CFL bulbs in the light fixtures that don't dim, but there's something really nice about being able to vary the light from intense and white for reading to warm and dim for movies or dinner.

    While halogen lights are not as efficient as CFLs they are more efficient than incandescent lights. As for using CFLs with dimmer switches, there are some CFLs capable of dimming. Though they are more expensive here are some dimmable CFLs. Though I don't see where they say what the manufacturer is on that page both GE and Philips make dimmable CFLs.

    Falcon
    1. Re:lights by mattack2 · · Score: 1

      Though halogen lights may be more "efficient" than incandescent lights, halogen torchieres are usually 300 or 500 watts. People don't have incandescent lamps that take a single bulb that use 500 watts. (I have a 300 watt halogen one, and definitely want to replace it.)

  56. Saving energy is easy... just do it! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

    Warning... This is a long post, but has specific info on how we did it. If you are really interested in saving energy regardless of your motivations, read on.

    We are a small IT company in Colorado that has always had a thing for saving energy. To all you "green" folks out there, no, we did not do it to reduce our "carbon footprint" or any such psudo-math. (I will retract this statement if and when someone can show me hard math and facts where the data doesn't come from a table generated by an "expert"). We simply saw the need to reduce waste, and did what we could. The fact it would help our bottom line didn't hurt either ;->. We incorporated these ideas in our old location, but we had no idea how much we were saving because power was included in our lease.

    Recently we moved into our own building, and got a real power bill. The first one doesn't count since we had the deposit to pay and contractors with power hungry tools... but our second one was $37, and no, that is not a typo. The subsequent bills were within 20%. What was done to make this possible was three-fold, Habits, Building, and Equipment.

    Change your habits. If you are done with something, turn it off. We power down half the servers and some IT gear when we leave for the night. Laptops get turned off or leave with the employee. Lights get turned off when you are not using the space. These habits were solidified in the old location.

    The building we selected is a 1920's adobe with about 2200 square feet. At our altitude (nearly 7000 feet), we needed no cooling except for the hottest months. The rest of the time we pull cool air from under the wood floors as needed. The office stayed at about 70 degrees, and the A/C kicks in at 85. All the area lights have been replaced with compact flourescent and task lights are LED spots. The break room has a small energy efficient fridge and microwave. No real surprises there, but the big savings is in the IT side of the house.

    Most of our real power consumption on the AC side are the printers. We have 3 laser printers, 2 B/W and 1 color, that we keep turned off when not in use. I wish we could move to something more energy efficient, but in business, there is still no replacement for a laser printer. We also have an inkjet/fax/scanner/dishwasher combo (just kidding about the dishwasher bit), but it also runs on AC, and stays on nearly all the time. We use it mostly to print proofs before they go to the laser printers for production.

    We have 8 pieces of non-computer equipment (phone systems, routers etc...) that run on 12 VDC and 3 run on 5vdc. We selected the equipment because it ran on DC at one of these voltages. Wall warts are just miniaturized linear power supplies; they draw power whenever they are plugged in, and produce heat, even when they are doing nothing for you. Switch mode supplies, such as PC power supplies use power in proportion to their demand and are most efficient at 70-80% load. We use a 500W dual output switch mode power supply to power everything that normally has a wall wart, charge the battery banks for failover... sort of a UPS with an 24 hour run time, and all the servers.

    Waitaminute... Servers??? Yep. While you may think you need God's own server for what you do, take a real look at it. We had a file server, 2 web servers, a mail server, an applications server, a database server, and a development server. They were mostly dual P4s with one single CPU. We replaced the servers used for the file and mail servers with one box with a Via C3 processor, 200W 12vdc power supply (for ITX machines), dual 500GB hard disks and 2 GB RAM running CentOS. It is plenty fast for our work group of 4 office people, 4 techs, and 2 sales weenies. In fact most have commented that it "feels faster" than our old SMP machine running 2000 Server. Better still is the power consumption... about 3.5 amps on the 12V line, or 42 Watts. Nearly identical machines run as our web servers, a combined application and database serve

    1. Re:Saving energy is easy... just do it! by RBT001 · · Score: 1

      Dan, feel free to post stuff like this anytime. I saw you write the post this morning. We made the system usable and repeatable so folks would copy it... think meatspace open source. One error... our Cisco 2500 router is AC powered.

      Anyone who wants more detail on systems, modifications, or specific equipment used please contact me at the email address below.

      Regards,

      Aaron Harper, President
      Raton Basin Technologies

      aharperatrbwifidotnet

    2. Re:Saving energy is easy... just do it! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The office stayed at about 70 degrees, and the A/C kicks in at 85.

      Very commendable overall, but I'd begin falling asleep at my keyboard somewhere around 73 degrees (75 degrees at the home office, but then nobody complains if I'm only wearing a speedo...). If it ever got above 80 I'd be flat-out incapable of doing any programming. No, I'm not fat or out of shape, just uncommonly hot-natured. If there are more than a few people in your office, there's a good chance of having one or two like me in the mix.

      - T

    3. Re:Saving energy is easy... just do it! by RBT001 · · Score: 1

      Quite right. I am the same way. Dan was commenting on the server room... er... closet. We keep the office area between 65 and 72 depending on outside weather, though that gets very hard when the temperature is bitter cold outside. An air lock type entry has helped here. Up here higher temps are comfortable because of the way sweat evaporates. At 7000 feet and 10% humidity 80-85 can be quite comfortable, though at 500 feet and 80% humidity that is quite uncomfortable, and speedos are a bad idea, even on casual Fridays. Regards, Aaron

  57. here's some data for cars by bjarthur123 · · Score: 1

    an analysis of the energy and toxins used during the lifecycle of a car: http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=433981

  58. Recycled in what sense though? by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    If you sell your gas guzzler to someone else in favor of a more efficient model you aren't really reducing pollution at all. Would it be better to just send it directly to the scrapyard?

    If you sell and the buyer uses the vehicle for transportation it's being reused not recycled. As for whether it's more efficient to reuse it or send it to the scrapyard, recycling it if the material is salvaged and melted down to be made into something else, it depends on the energy used in both processes. I once read of a lifecycle study that showed it took more energy and other resources to mine fresh metals and use it to make something than does recycling used metal. However today I don't know if this still applies as vehicles are using more resources than just metals such as the composites used. To an existent this is being worked on by companies like GM. GM has worked on a Hy-Wire Concept car with a skateboard design. The skateboard provides locomotion, the engine and drivetrain, which allows the body to be interchanged. A person would be able to get a car with one body type but then a few years later they could then change the body style from say a muscle car to a SUV when they have a family.

    Falcon
  59. CAFE standards by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    I guess that is a decent argument for improved CAFE standards.

    Politicians will never raise CAFE standards until they're bit in the ass. While the big 3 US makers; Chrysler, Ford, and GM, fight any raise in CAFE their foreign competitors are eating their lunch. The same thing happened in the 1970's, they didn't learn then and they aren't learning now.

    Falcon
  60. Dishwashers are a win, not a loss by mengel · · Score: 3, Informative
    Actually, Dishwashers tend to use less water and energy than people washing dishes by hand, unless said people are using the 4-dishpan (dirty soapy, clean soapy, rinse, chlorine sanitize) method. This is because dishwashers de-chunk and recycle the soapy water till the dishes are clean, and then use a small amount to rinse, while most people keep a sink full of warm soapy water, and then keep running fresh, warm rinse water while washing dishes in the sink, thereby using several times more hot water than a dishwasher .

    But yes, overall, simplifying our lives and living situations would go a long way towards reducing our energy footprint; but we should also avoid false optimizations.

    --
    - "History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men" -- Blue Oyster Cult, 'Godzilla'
    1. Re:Dishwashers are a win, not a loss by dwywit · · Score: 2, Interesting
      Seriously - do people really do this? Let me get this right - "Dirty soapy, clean soapy, rinse, chlorine sanitize"

      Holy shit, no wonder we're going down the tubes. Do people really think it's necessary to completely sterilise their dishes?

      I live on solar power + batteries, backed up by a petrol genset for bad weather, and one think I can't run is a dishwasher. Why? Because dishwashers have water heating elements in them - the specs I've seen say that they will heat incoming water up to 70 or 80 degrees C for washing purposes (that's 20 to 30 degrees above typical household hot water supply), and electric heating elements are one thing that's a no-no for solar+battery systems - it's one of the least efficient uses of electricity known, and regardless of any water savings, the disposal of the caustic output from the wash cycle is an environmental problem, too.

      Overall, dishwashers may be of some use to some people (e.g. large families with children too young to wield a wash brush or drying towel), but one sink of soapy and one sink of rinse is enough for this family of four.

      It's the same thing with homeowner associations banning the use of outdoor lines for drying clothes because it'll lower property values because "poor people" can't afford electric clothes dryers. I don't see or read such short-sighted things very often.

      --
      They sentenced me to twenty years of boredom
    2. Re:Dishwashers are a win, not a loss by mengel · · Score: 1
      Actually, it's the minimum required by departments of public health all over the place to prevent the spread of disease in restaurants and so on. If you don't mind everyone in your family getting sick if one of you does, I guess you don't need to bother.

      The point of the heat in a dishwasher is to sterilze with heat rather than, say, chlorine.

      However, from the data I've seen, dishwashers use about the same power as an electric iron, coffee maker, or electric hairdryer. So I don't know where you get your ideas about them.

      --
      - "History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men" -- Blue Oyster Cult, 'Godzilla'
    3. Re:Dishwashers are a win, not a loss by dwywit · · Score: 1
      Yes, fair enough for commercial premises - they have a duty of care to their customers that requires their dishes (and other parts of the restaurant) to be scrupulously clean - sanitised, even (yes I spent 18 months working at a McDonalds that won awards for its cleanliness - I used to wash the big, greasy, grease reserviors from the grills and other cookers, so I know what it means when a *cough*restaurant*cough* needs to keep things clean.

      My point was that a dishwasher isn't much better, if at all, resource-and-environment-and-health-wise, than doing household dishes by hand, in the way I described. I mean, spreading germs from one family member to another is gonna happen whether or not the dishes are clinically sterile - we do tend to hug, kiss, and cuddle - even more so when one of us is sick.

      As for power consumption, those appliances you mentioned use an electric heating element - these are baaaad for a solar+battery system, and I've learned to do without most of them, or to satisfy those needs/wants another way, e.g. I cook using a gas stove. BTW, those ratings are power ratings, not energy consumption ratings - i.e. a hairdryer might pull 1200 watts, but it's usually on for only a few minutes of time (how many times a week?), but a dishwasher's heating element might be on for 10, 20 or 30 minutes each day, so the dishwasher will use more energy (power*time) annually than the hairdryer. I have to think in terms of energy used rather than peak power loads, because that determines how big my battery bank has to be, and how much solar PV has to be on the roof to replenish that usage every day.

      I wasn't a power/energy zealot until I bought a solar-powered house :-)

      --
      They sentenced me to twenty years of boredom
  61. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by plague3106 · · Score: 1

    The savings in power from replacing the CRT were $18/year, not $90. Assuming no time-value of money, it would take 11 years to pay it off. It takes longer, of course, if there is time-value (interest). Not many LCDs really have that lifetime, so money-wise, you're not saving any.

    I wasn't only focusing on the CRT though when I was replying. My only point regarding the CRT was that it can be recycled. As for LCD lifetimes, I know several people that have laptops and the LCD screen works just fine even though its about 12 years old. I don't see where you got that 11 year number from; every LCD tv will be trash in 11 years? I somehow doubt that. At any rate, saying that the LCD must pay for itself without using savings elsewhere is silly.

    In terms of energy, it takes energy to make the LCD, transport it, and to recycle the CRT (rather than dump toxens into a landfill). How much of the $200 pays directly for the energy? Does $18/year, or even $90/year really pay it off?

    It takes far less energy to create than its $200 price. Much of the price is in materials, labor, and markup. By the time you buy the monitor, its $200. It may have only cost the manufactorer $75, and not all of those are energy costs.

    Personally I'd rather use some energy to recycle than let posious chemicals end up in drinking water.

    This is why people say it's trivial. In many cases, there's no gain by replacing working equipment.

    It doesn't seem that logic supports that. At any rate, the LCD is already created, sitting on a shelf. Letting it sit there and using a CRT that takes up more energy doesn't seem like a great idea either.

    Sometimes there is, though. His office lighting used 370 watts (twice his office equipment). In terms of energy and cost, it would probably be worth it to reduce that. My home office uses about 40W of lighting for general use, 90W when task lighting, which happens less than once a week. So, if he saved on lighting, that's between 280W and 330W or 2.24-2.64kWh in an 8-hour day (provided you use the lights in day-time).

    Agreed; but savings are savings, and if you can cut cost further that seems to be a good thing. Most of our nation gets its electric from coal burning plants, possibly one of the costiest (in terms of polution) ways to generate power. Cutting your power bill today lessens the need to burn as much coal.

  62. How to find good CFL brands(how to use google) by lupine · · Score: 1

    New decent quality CFLs feature "instant on" and are full brightness in a second or two.
    Cheap no-name models made in china sold by walmart are crap, but even those have improved.

    Luckily there is this thing on the information super highway(its a series of tubes) called google that can help you find unbiased product information.

    1. in your web browser type in the url: www.google.com
    2. type in the search term "compact fluorescent lights test"
    3. click "I'm Feeling Lucky"
    4. Profit!**

    **Actual profit is debatable, but saving real money on your energy bill can be easily achieved.

    1. Re:How to find good CFL brands(how to use google) by CommandNotFound · · Score: 1

      I imagine you will appreciate the fact that yes, I *did* use Google to search CFL benchmarks, ratings, tests, compact fluorescent, and any number of terms. I subscribe to the dead tree edition of PM, and the bulbs I mentioned were in that article (N:Vision) that I read months ago. They were a total waste of money. Using Google for this is sort of like finding good computer hardware using Google: lots of talk and marketing, but it is often hard to find someone who says "yes, I used product X and it works like this". There are too many punkz that will give hand-waving responses with no real help. So for now, I'll stick with Edison-style bulbs, unfortunately.

  63. Math errors by trolltalk.com · · Score: 1

    >"It turned out that my office sucked away 2.2 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of power during that time. Since all of that power is converted to heat, I was also warming up my office to the tune of 562 British Thermal Units (BTUs) per hour. That's roughly one-sixth of the heat output from a 1,000-watt hair dryer, heat that my fan had to work to remove."

    1 kW/hr = 3413 BTU/hr, not the other way around. In other words, its equal to 7,500 BTUs. Or. more obviously, 2.2 1,000 watt hair dryers.

    If the author could make such a simple mistake, I wouldn't trust any other figures, esp. since

    1. there is no "compensation" for heating cost offsets in winter from reduced heating load
    2. "none of the equipment is energy star rated" - how f*cking OLD is that shit? More than a decade?
  64. life of CFLs by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    True. But "society" had better improve the availability of (and education about) proper disposal for CF bulbs. In a few years when all the bulbs sold in the recent surge wear out, most will probably go into the regular trash and landfill.

    I bought my first CFL more than 20 years ago, replacing the incandescent bulbs with CFLs when they burned out, and I've only replaced 3 CFLs in that tyme. Meanwhile the added energy needed to power incandescent lights over CFLs mean more mercury is emitted burning coal. I bet the mercury in CFLs is less than that emitted from coal fire power plants. But you're right, good collection systems need to be in place to recycle CFLs. A similar system to what done with car batteries, motor oil, and tires can be put in place in some places. Have a "deposit" being paid on CFLs when bought, but if a bad CFL is brought in then waive the deposit.

    Falcon
  65. VA and watts by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    Wouldn't these devices simply measure voltage and current and multiply them to give watts?

    With purely resistive loads 1 VA is 1 watt, however with an inductive or capacitive load VA and watts are different. My electrical knowledge is way too rusty but maybe another /.er can give you the formulas to calculate VA and watts.

    Falcon
  66. Power Factor. by zippthorne · · Score: 1

    For DC circuits, VA = Watts, but for AC circuits, it's a bit more complicated.

    The problem is that the v(t) and i(t) may not be in phase, so you cannot simply multiply Vrms*Irms and get the power used. You can calculate the instantaneous power p(t) = |v(t)*i(t)|, and integrate that directly over one period to obtain the average power usage. You could also calculate <p>rms = sqrt(int(v(t)^2*i(t)^2 dt, 0..T)/T) to avoid using the discontinuous abs() function.

    It's a little simpler if you assume that your power is monochromatic. The integrations have already been worked out, so all you need to know is the difference in phase and you can compute the real power (W) from the apparent power(VA_rms). We call the ratio of real power to apparent power the "Power Factor." It is always less than or equal to 1.

    --
    Can you be Even More Awesome?!
  67. 80 Plus is WAY overrated by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I always laugh when someone mentions that. My PC uses a reasonable amount of power, about 100 watts, using a plain old 70%+ PSU. Switching to a 80PLUS one would have me about 10 watts or so.

    10 watts * 24h/day * 365 days/year = 87.6KWh, @ 0.10$/KWh that's 8.76 (make that 10$ w/ taxes) savings per year. Assuming my PC is running 24/7, without any kind of power saving (it hibernates when I don't use it, so it's not even close to that).

    Why would I go spend like 150$ on one of them fancy high quality 80PLUS PSUs when they would take 15 years to pay for themselves? With average daily usage (maybe 6h/day tops -- gotta work, sleep, etc) and power savings enabled it would take well over 50 years to pay for itself... Even if the PSU didn't use any electricity at all (created the power out of thin air) it would still take like a couple years for it to pay for itself (and by then I'll likely have a new pc anyways)

  68. CRT and HDTV by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    What about if a CRT uses less power than my new HDTV of similar size?

    Ah, I saw some HDTVs that were CRTs. While LCD TVs use less power than CRTs a plasma TV may use more.

    Falcon
  69. trashing a CRT by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    The author spent $200 to buy an LCD monitor to replace a 19" CRT, saving $18 / yr electricity: more than a five year payoff. And he's putting a CRT into a landfill somewhere.

    Having RTFA I didn't see where it said he was putting the old CRT into a landfill, can you point it out for me?

    Falcon
  70. CFLs by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    I have a Lux meter and a power meter and a test rig and a large assortment of bulbs... The savings from CFL isn't much and the amount of real light they produced isn't what the packages claim and they reduce their light output faster than older bulbs. It appears that the light output is based on their highest intensity point as if the entire bulb produced that (like the incandescent bulbs). Most of the non twist designs put out 1/3 the light on the end as the brightest part of the side and the twisties tend to produce less total light but are more consistent. I started by testing 20 bulbs I got from a local K-mart and grocery store and have since collected a few more. The best so far have been LED or halogen and the worst was ones are CFLs. Good quality long life incancesdents are in the same range as mid tier CFL. CFLs dim rapidly (to being useless based on their stated output in less than 1000 hours) while old bulbs would last 1000 hours at nearly full intensity 50% of the time (and 0% intensity 49.999% of the time)

    What, did you buy cheap Chinese CFLs? I've been using CFLs for more than 20 years and never had these problems, actually I've gotten better CFL bulbs cheaper the last tyme I bought some. The only problem I've had with CFLs is some of them have taken more than a minute for the light to be full strength when used outdoors while cold, but new CFLs are better here too.

    Falcon
  71. 1st step by r_jensen11 · · Score: 1

    Replace those incandescent light bulbs with CF's. Typical payback period is 3 months. Store the incandescents somewhere relatively safe, and pop them back in whenever you move out of your residence.

  72. Questions! What a timely artical! by cdn-programmer · · Score: 1

    I have questions. Before I get to them... my experience with compact fluorescents... GREAT! I'm on my 2nd set now. One just died two days ago and I have temporarily replaced it with one left over from my first set. The specific model of the 2nd set is: Panasonic EFT 15E28. I use three (3) in my office in a whirly bird.

    The first problem was solved as follow. The light projects upwards through the whirly bird and the fans created an annoying flickering reflection off the ceiling. A trip to the hardware store and a small bottle of glass paint and 5 minutes fixed that issue. All that is required is to paint the upper 1/2 of the glass flutes of the whirly bird which houses the lamps. This makes the fixture more efficient anyways. Should I now expect an annoying patent lawsuit?

    Second problem? There wasn't one.

    I run my office lights 24x365 and have for over 15 years. My computers run 24x365 also and the reason is most are servers and I live in Calgary which needs heating anyways about 8 months of the year. I'd like to get greener servers. See below.

    My lights draw 15 watts each so that is about 15*3*24 = 1080 = about 1 KWatt per day which costs me about $3 per month from which I can deduct heating costs. I'm in the office probably 8-10 hours per day and this is spread over about 12-16 hours a day so I figure its ok to leave the lights on.

    The life of the bulbs is about 50,000 hours. This is correct. I installed my first set in about 1995 and replaced them when I installed the whirly bird in about 2000-2002. I don't recall exactly when I replaced them but I know it was after 1999 because I built my garage then and the same electrician hooked up my whirly bird. I know I installed the fist set before 1998 because I was in Malaysia and Australia in 1998 and I remember subtracting out the months overseas from the lives of the first set of bulbs. I can look up the bills.

    This means that both the first set and the second set of CFL's ran about 5 years at 24x365 and that is 50,000 hours give or take and 2/3 of the 2nd set are still running with the 1/3 failure from 2 days ago. This is not even close to the 10,000 hours advertised. Its not even close to the horror stores I read before I decided to post this.

    The light quality is excellent and the spectrum works well with my monitors. There is no discernable flicker and my eyes are very very sensitive to this so I know its not there.

    ----------------
    This also introduces a nepherious issue. The CFL I need to replace. Well. I called Panasonic. Seems its not available in Calgary. Why? Calgary has over a million people. Why can't I find it here? Are the manufactures trying to dumb down the engineering so they can sell more? If this is the case then people in slashdot should post a story and lets get to its bottoms.

    In the mean while I am faced with finding a replacement. I'd like the same CFL bulb actually. Then my office decoer matches. If they are going to improve it in a negative way I'd like the old product please.

    ----------------

    Questions:

    1) I'm interested in very low power green servers. I'm working with some associates and the objective is partially to be cost effective and wise and to come up with a robust solution that people can adopt. So far we have identifed an eden processor from WalMart... cost is $200 and power draw apparently 7 watts for the cpu. I don't know what the total system draw will be.

    I'd like suggestions. IF these are in the form of something we can compile and publish then so much the better. What about solid state solutions? We're probably going to serve static web pages so even the CPU in a cell phone will probably handle the load. We'll look to feed a DSL which is limited to say 1 Mb/s

    2) Ditto with firewall solutions.

    I'd like to see new machines built like cartons of cigarettes from the 1940's and 1950's. They are about the right size. They are easy to carry. Each "package" can contain a useful assor

  73. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by Ant+P. · · Score: 1

    Maybe the US just has tighter regulations... but where I live people can just take old CRTs to the recycling place, leave them there with the rest of the junk, and they allow anyone else to take stuff out as long as they accept the common-sense risk disclaimers.

  74. Car questions? by pbhj · · Score: 1

    >>> Money aside, I don't know whether to keep the beater (which gets about 20mpg) or get a newer car.

    Neither. Rearrange your life to walk; ride a bike or hire a car if absolutely necessary.

  75. what about TVs? I have a 19" old-fashioned TV by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    Cheap, and it works. But I'm looking at a 32" LCD. The LCD might pull less electricity, but would the difference offset the energy costs of making the TV?

    Either the TV will have to be replaced or you will need a converter for it anyway because of the switch from analogue to digital broadcasting.

    Falcon
  76. halogen lights by falconwolf · · Score: 1

    Though halogen lights may be more "efficient" than incandescent lights, halogen torchieres are usually 300 or 500 watts. People don't have incandescent lamps that take a single bulb that use 500 watts. (I have a 300 watt halogen one, and definitely want to replace it.)

    Why do you need such a large, high wattage, light? Photography? Florescent lights do funky thinks with photos but I'd think halogens would have an even funkier effect.

    Falcon
    1. Re:halogen lights by mattack2 · · Score: 1

      They're just nice & really bright. Halogen torchieres were really common a while ago. It's just my normal room light. But I often have it off. I still want to replace it due to the power waste.

    2. Re:halogen lights by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      Just FYI, halogen lights are just tungsten lamps, so they are really good for photography.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    3. Re:halogen lights by falconwolf · · Score: 1

      Just FYI, halogen lights are just tungsten lamps, so they are really good for photography.

      Thanks, I didn't know that. Being tungsten then I don't think they would have the funky effect I said previously. I haven't used studio lighting before, most of my exposures are taken outdoors with natural lighting or city night lights, but for an assignment in one photography class I took in college we had to take exposures indoors with incandescent lights then with florescent lights and compare how they were different.

      Falcon
  77. Re:The problem implicit: no value for the individu by turing_m · · Score: 1

    "saving $18 / yr electricity: more than a five year payoff."

    The payoff may be less than that, depending on his assumptions of future energy costs. If he is switching to solar, reducing peak or average load will probably reduce his costs there.

    --
    If I have seen further it is by stealing the Intellectual Property of giants.
  78. Good job getting the word out by PsyQ · · Score: 1

    I think it's great that slowly but surely, everyone seems to learn about what consumes how much power. We recently did a video podcast (there's an Ogg Theora version too) about this subject, too (shameless on-topic plug). Our audience is probably less technical than the people you'd find on Slashdot, but you never know. I've met quite a few IT professionals in my day who didn't even know the amount of power their server rooms consumed, so there are still new heads to educate out there :)

    The more people talk about this, the more will the industry be forced to do something. In some areas, they already reacted, especially about the standby problem. Fujitsu-Siemens now makes a monitor that eats exactly 0 Watts in standby. That's the target, everyone.

    PS: Podcast's website isn't actually meant to be seen by humans, it's there mostly for Miro users to subscribe to.

  79. no magic bullet by misanthrope101 · · Score: 1

    There will be no single solution to the energy problem. We have to recognize that small changes, added together, accumulate into large changes. Even with CFL bulbs, I still turn the light out when I leave the room. Each light turned off for the 5 min till I re-enter the kitchen is individually insignificant, but you have to see things as part of a larger whole.