Slashdot Mirror


Ask Slashdot: Mirrorless, Interchangeable Lens Camera Advice?

jehan60188 writes "I want a camera that's better than my phone, but I don't have the technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR. I think the MILC style will be a happy compromise, but I'm concerned that it might be all 'marketing' and no 'technology.' I don't have a lot of demands, but I do like taking macro shots of things from time to time. Also, my sister is going to China in a few months, so a telephoto lens would probably be good for sight seeing (since I could employ optical zoom instead of the imaginary 'digital zoom')."

402 comments

  1. two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    Sounds like you want an all around camera, look into the panasonic gx1.
    It has fantastic lenses for HD video, and will provide awesome photographs.

    You might also be completely thrilled with a Sony NEX5 or new camera.

    1. Re:two suggestions by cayenne8 · · Score: 4, Insightful
      I'd say....save your money, and buy the best DSLR you can afford.

      They all have Full Auto settings....so you can start right off using it without 'technical knowledge'.

      But over time, you will have the option to play with the settings and learn the tech behind the DSLR and then be able to use one to the fullest extent.

      Again, they all have full auto...do that and start experimenting and learn more about photography...make it a learning investment.

      Also...more lens options with DSLR and it did sound like that was something he was interested in.

      I'm not suggesting you go overboard like I'm saving to do...I'm looking to get a Canon 5D Mark II (unless the Mark III comes out soon and is better). But the lower level Canon DSLR's are all quite nice and a good place to start. I want the 5D so I can have the high end HD video too...wanting to try to shoot pro level stuff. I live in New Orleans, and there is work for people with this camera...so, figure after awhile I can earn some $$ enough to justify such an expense.

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    2. Re:two suggestions by stanlyb · · Score: 1

      Seconded. Another advice, don't spend more than $1000 for everything. And don't forget to include a tri-pod, even if it is the dwarf size. For night pictures, or panorama pictures you need your camera to stay fixed somehow.

    3. Re:two suggestions by MADCOWbeserk · · Score: 1

      I have the Olympus, very nice Camera and takes wonderful pictures. However I would buy the Sony if I was buying a camera today. Better in low light, and much cheaper lenses due to compatibility with legacy Minolta stuff. Avoid the Nikon, it has awful reviews....

    4. Re:two suggestions by MADCOWbeserk · · Score: 1

      The mirror less Sony Olympus have the same size sensors as the consumer SLR's they make take. In addition they can more or less take the same glass with an adapter. It is a massive benefit being so much smaller, my Olympus Pen EPL2 fits in a pocket, especially with the 21mm pancake lens.. The end result is a camera that leaves the house more often. As for paying a little more for an SLR, well they cost about the same because they only give up the mirror, ie doesn't cost less to manufacture.

    5. Re:two suggestions by squidflakes · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I hate to break it to you but the FULL AUTO ZOMG setting will make your pictures look just as horrible as a cell phone.

      Full auto is no substitute for knowing how to take photo and the OP is right for wanting a smaller compact camera that is actually designed to do the work for them.

      Let me also dissuade you from the notion that there is money to be made for someone who has just picked up a 5D MkII and intends on holding down the shutter button until the money starts rolling in. Professional photographers have a name for people like that, and the nicest one is sucker. Simply having an expensive camera won't make you a good photographer. You may turn out shots that get you endless ego fellatio on facebook or flickr, but that doesn't make you money. What makes you money in photography is an excellent grasp of the technical aspects of the craft, and a good solid grounding in the foundation of visual arts. Color theory, composition, and lighting and shadow are the places to start, then its practice practice practice until you can consistently turn out well composed shots with good lighting and balanced colors. All the while, you're constantly working the business end, looking for opportunities, networking in many different industries, advertising, selling yourself, maintaining relationships with old clients, pounding the pavement for new clients, and making sure more dollars roll in than out. Once you get to that level, you're going to see why professionals cringe and roll their eyes when they read posts like yours.

      If the OP reads this, and you want to burn DSLR money, look in to the Fuji X100. It has classic camera styling with amazing optics, an excellent sensor, and a very unique processing pipeline that will give your photos a very memorable look. The price is nearly $1000, but there is a reason a lot of pro photographers use this as their walk around.

    6. Re:two suggestions by SoupGuru · · Score: 3, Interesting

      I disagree. Buy the best lens you can afford and buy the lowest end body that will fit it. Expensive bodies are overkill for a novice but give them plenty of opportunity to learn and grow into the more advanced features. Bodies change and become obsolete "quickly", lenses are "forever".

      --
      What doesn't kill you only delays the inevitable
    7. Re:two suggestions by griffjon · · Score: 4, Informative

      So, I was very recently in this scenario. I gave up and bought a Canon T3i. I don't think the mirrorless cameras have really matured enough yet, outside of /maybe/ the Sony NEX series. But then you're dealing with Sony. To be fair, I have some brand loyalty to Canon because (a) they have a solid service department and (b) have been decent about the amazing side-loading firmware that the folks over at CHDK and MagicLantern have put together. If you just want DSLR-ish features (and then some) of long exposures, motion detection, timelapse, and HDR auto-bracketing, then look at a CHDK-supported, high-end Canon point-and-shoot.

      The huge benefit that MILCs and DSLRs have is an almost 10x larger sensor space (and the lenses required to deal with that). This gives you insanely better shots at a much wider range of light settings, as you need less light to enter to develop a good picture.

      MILCs are also much, much smaller than their DSLR cousins. This is good and bad. The lenses (especially telephotos) are still going to be weighty and unbalance a smaller camera, but you could conceivably pop it off and pocket the body, which is handy for travel.

      I lost my patience, and just bought a not-insane DSLR. For 830 I got the T3i, a 18-55mm lens and a 75-300mm telephoto. I love it, but I'd love something even more portable more. I actually just came across this blog post the other day, which gets far geekier than I am on the future of MILC-likes: stuckincustoms.com/2012/01/04/dslrs-are-a-dying-breed-3rd-gen-cameras-are-the-future/

      (And yes, I've already rooted it.)

      --
      Returned Peace Corps IT Volunteer
    8. Re:two suggestions by Guspaz · · Score: 4, Informative

      While it's true that micro fourthirds and fourthirds (used on their consumer DSLRs, since higher end ones would be full frame) use the same sized sensor, and Sony's e-mount cameras also use an APS-C sensor similar in size to their consumer DSLRs, the optics are different, so you're not going to get the same properties out of them in terms of depth of field, for example.

      This is a pretty good illustration:

      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sensor_sizes_overlaid_inside.svg

      Cellphone sensors are smaller than anything on this chart, Point & Shoot cameras are the 1/2.5" to 1/1.6" sizes (typically closer to 1/2.5" these days), and the rest should be obvious. You only hit full frame on prosumer cameras, like the Canon 5D series or the Leica M9 (and others from Sony, Nikon, etc) nothing below that.

    9. Re:two suggestions by xaxa · · Score: 1

      My Sony SLT-A55 has more than one "Auto" mode -- there's "Auto+", which tries (and does fairly well) to detect what you're trying to photograph, and adjusts the settings accordingly. There's "Scene", which is the same as Auto+, except you tell it you're trying a portrait, low-light landscape, etc. You can see what it's doing, and apply the same settings in a manual mode.

      It's great for my first DSLR, since it takes better pictures in Scene mode than I do in unfamiliar situations. Also, I still find myself overdoing things, if I adjust manually and get carried away.

      Can anyone recommend a good place (website / book) to learn more? I borrowed a few books from the library, but they both tried to cover every type of photography in hardly any detail. Most of my photographs are taken on holiday, a mix of buildings, landscapes, street scenes and people (occasionally other things, but I care less about wild animals, posed portraits, etc).

    10. Re:two suggestions by v(*_*)vvvv · · Score: 1

      Parent has a strong case, but a) some people don't want to learn, and will never learn, and b) DSLRs are huge and expensive.

      So MIL cameras fit right in the void. Even professional photographers carry portable cameras, and mirror-less construction is an honest breakthrough in cutting the form factor without compromising the sensor size.

    11. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      > but there is a reason a lot of pro photographers use this as their walk around.
      Looks?

    12. Re:two suggestions by jhol13 · · Score: 1

      Why? The whole idea of Micro 3/4 or Sony Nex (or like) is to avoid the worst part of DSLR - the mirror. Besides, Micro 3/4 lenses are smaller than DLSR lenses.

      Unless, of course, you want to *feel like* a pro.

    13. Re:two suggestions by coolsnowmen · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I hate to break it to you but the FULL AUTO ZOMG setting will make your pictures look just as horrible as a cell phone.

      I disagree, ...strongly

      DSLR has a larger sensor and gets in more light. This will let you take pictures of things you simply can't take pictures of with a cell phone camera:
          Things moving faster than a snail
          Things not in a perfectly lit room

      For taking pictures at dawn/dusk, to action shots of your kids&friends just playing around, simply: size of the sensor, decent optics will tear apart your cellphone.

    14. Re:two suggestions by CaptBubba · · Score: 4, Insightful

      There's pretty much no way that a decent DSLR on full auto won't beat the tar out of cell-phone photos, or even a reasonable point and shoot. Just the extra speed and accuracy of the phase auto-focus systems and the advantage of not having a dinky 1.75um pixel pitch in the sensor will give you cleaner photos, to say nothing of having a decent lens on there. The companies put a bunch of work into those automatic systems and they generally are fairly good. Good enough to charge for? Likely not. As good as a pro who knows what she's/he's doing? Certainly not. But still decent enough for a hobbyist and clearly better than anything someone with an iphone will capture.

      Your second point is dead on. Lack of knowledge = unmemorable photos. That's fine if you just want to document the bird you saw or the view from the top of the hike you took, but it won't take you anywhere if you want to enter a field already filled to the brim with professionals and one hundred times as many people who think they are professionals because they bought a nice camera.

    15. Re:two suggestions by godel_56 · · Score: 1

      If the OP reads this, and you want to burn DSLR money, look in to the Fuji X100. It has classic camera styling with amazing optics, an excellent sensor, and a very unique processing pipeline that will give your photos a very memorable look. The price is nearly $1000, but there is a reason a lot of pro photographers use this as their walk around.

      Not everyone loves the Fuji X100.

      http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/fuji_x100_follow_up.shtml

    16. Re:two suggestions by Cederic · · Score: 1

      My Sony SLT-A55 has more than one "Auto" mode -- there's "Auto+", which tries (and does fairly well) to detect what you're trying to photograph, and adjusts the settings accordingly. There's "Scene", which is the same as Auto+, except you tell it you're trying a portrait, low-light landscape, etc. You can see what it's doing, and apply the same settings in a manual mode.

      My point & shoot compact camera has those capabilities as well, in a smaller form factor. Auto, scenes, colour modes, AP, SP, P, manual (even manual focus) so you could start with a compact camera and still learn the technique without needing a DSLR.

      The DSLRs benefit from the broader lens choice (I have an excellent lens, but I can't swap it out for something faster than f2 or higher zoom than 90m equiv) and a better sensor than most compacts.

      I'd love a DSLR or Leica M9 with its range of capabilities, lens choice, etc, but I know it just wouldn't leave the house often enough to justify buying it.

      Can anyone recommend a good place (website / book) to learn more?

      Best bet is to hit Google and search for terms like 'landscape photography forum', maybe add the manufacturer or model of your camera in there, and see what comes up.

      street scenes

      http://www.85mm.ch/Book/Books.html
      I'll admit it, I'm too shy to step right up to a stranger and photograph them the way he does. But I'll build myself up to it..

    17. Re:two suggestions by Cederic · · Score: 5, Informative

      In the days of film photography I'd have agreed with you.

      These days the sensor matters a lot. I agree entirely you still benefit from an excellent lens, and you're right on the longevity of lenses, but the "lowest end body" is too low end. Come in above the minimum bar and get a good sized sensor that can actually use all that light your excellent lens is giving to it.

      Some of us like a large shutter speed range, good ISO mix and fast autofocus too, but that's a separate discussion.

    18. Re:two suggestions by icebike · · Score: 1, Insightful

      Let me also dissuade you from the notion that there is money to be made for someone who has just picked up a 5D MkII and intends on holding down the shutter button until the money starts rolling in.

      Where was any mention made of making money with this camera?

      The topic seems never to have been mentioned until you propped up the straw man and handily beat it down.

      The story poster wants a nice camera, he wan't planning to enter the cutthroat business of commercial photography.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    19. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      +1 for Canon's service department.

      I had some image sensor corruption on a high-end Canon point-and-shoot with drop marks and a serial number that was dissolved off of the camera body by DEET. Despite all this, they fixed it under warranty and shipped the camera back to me without asking any questions.

      (I don't think the abuse caused the image sensor issues, but it would have been easy for Canon to claim that it did.)

      My next camera purchase will be Canon -- 100% chance of this.

    20. Re:two suggestions by noh8rz2 · · Score: 0
      i looked into micro four thirds cameras for a long time, but eventually steered clear. They cost just as much as DSLRs, the lenses are even more expensive. the only thing they have going is small form factor.

      Instead, you can get 80% of a DSLR in a high end point and shoot like cannon s90 / s95. With a f2.0 fast lens you can take great low light shots without the bulk of a big camera. as they say, the best camera is the one you have with you.

      Eventually there will only be three cameras:
      1) iphone
      2) Canon s95
      3) DSLR.
      Hope this helps.

    21. Re:two suggestions by steelyeyedmissileman · · Score: 3, Informative

      Can anyone recommend a good place (website / book) to learn more?

      Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. Best photography book I ever invested in.

      Scott Kelby has a number of books that I've found very helpful on the specifics, too.

    22. Re:two suggestions by DustPuppySnr · · Score: 1

      This is so true. I always try to convince people to look at sensor size instead of megapixels. The quality of your photo depends on sensor size, not megapixels.

    23. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      You TOTALLY missed Squid's point.

      I do a great deal of club photography and every night I shoot, one of those suckers comes up to me and says: "Awesome! 5D eh? Must be nice coming in here, setting that on auto, and making dough! Easy as pie for you!"

      You mean there IS an auto mode?!?! If you take the 5D, 7D, 60D, 1Ds and shoot in a club in auto mode (probably with a cheap kit lens too, no doubt!), the shots you make will be virtually indistinguishable from those taken by an iPhone or point and shoot. Taking the camera off AUTO and exercising proper use of aperture, shutter speed, sensitivity, flash mode, et cetera (i.e. LEARNING how to use your camera) makes your images start to look interesting and THEN all of those things Squid mentions make them memorable.

    24. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      While it's true that micro fourthirds and fourthirds (used on their consumer DSLRs, since higher end ones would be full frame) use the same sized sensor, and Sony's e-mount cameras also use an APS-C sensor similar in size to their consumer DSLRs, the optics are different, so you're not going to get the same properties out of them in terms of depth of field, for example.

      Nonsense. Depth of field is not affected by whether a cameras is a DSLR or not.

    25. Re:two suggestions by brantondaveperson · · Score: 1

      It certainly is, but sensor size is also a lot more expensive than megapixels...

    26. Re:two suggestions by Xenna · · Score: 1

      I'm only really familiar with the Canon range, but for DSLR there's only 3 choices. The 'minimum bar' is APS-C sensor size and anything above that is very expensive. AFAIK anyhing above APS-C in DSLR's is hi-end!

    27. Re:two suggestions by reimero · · Score: 1

      I wouldn't necessarily recommend the *best*, but I'd definitely go with *good*. Believe it or not, there is such thing as too much camera. That said, a solid DSLR will serve you well, and will allow you to step from point and shoot down to fully manual controls. One of the things I like about the DSLRs over their mirrorless counterparts is that you get more precise focal and lighting information as you become more and more experienced. Mine allows for various types of light readings and user-selectable autofocus points (or simply going full manual on the focus.) Taking courses helps, but there's no substitute for getting out there and taking pictures and experimenting with different settings and finding out what works for you. As time goes on, you'll start paying attention to the elements that make a good photograph, and you'll get better at it.

      When it comes to photography, though, your camera is really only a small part of the total equation. Photographer skill is even more essential, and that comes with practice.

      --

      ----------

      Something clever
    28. Re:two suggestions by cayenne8 · · Score: 1

      Let me also dissuade you from the notion that there is money to be made for someone who has just picked up a 5D MkII and intends on holding down the shutter button until the money starts rolling in. Professional photographers have a name for people like that, and the nicest one is sucker. Simply having an expensive camera won't make you a good photographer. You may turn out shots that get you endless ego fellatio on facebook or flickr, but that doesn't make you money. What makes you money in photography is an excellent grasp of the technical aspects of the craft, and a good solid grounding in the foundation of visual arts. Color theory, composition, and lighting and shadow are the places to start, then its practice practice practice until you can consistently turn out well composed shots with good lighting and balanced colors. All the while, you're constantly working the business end, looking for opportunities, networking in many different industries, advertising, selling yourself, maintaining relationships with old clients, pounding the pavement for new clients, and making sure more dollars roll in than out. Once you get to that level, you're going to see why professionals cringe and roll their eyes when they read posts like yours.

      I'm getting the camera for ME first and foremost. I have shot (ages ago) SLR's...so, this will give me a good chance to learn and re-learn things and have fun shooting things.

      I'm also wanting it for the pro level HD it takes. I first saw one of these on a comedy short I was shooting with some pros here in New Orleans.

      There is a HUGE boom in commercial movie, tv and commericals being shot down here due to the huge tax credits, some are calling it Hollywood South.

      I've already been making contacts with people for things to do once I get the camera and some glass.

      Hell, the other day on craigslist, there were listing for $600/day for just what you described...set up the camera on a tripod, and 'hold it open' for them to film static interviews and other shots for some commercials, etc.

      I'm working on learning my audio/video editing skills too...as well as writing for filming my own stuff. Have I done much of this before? No...but, figured it would be something VERY fun to do (I got hooked after that comedy short shoot I was acting in)...and figured as a sideline to learning and having fun, I might could earn a few bucks on the side....

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    29. Re:two suggestions by 9jack9 · · Score: 1

      Or . . . get an introductory DSLR and a great lens or two.

      The Nikon D3000 DSLR with the 18-200mm zoom lens and the 35mm f/1.8 lens make a great starter set. In a few years you can upgrade the DSLR. By that time they'll have a consumer model that will take pictures in total darkness 24 hours ahead of time.

      Carrying a DSLR is a decision. Once you decide you're going to carry a camera bag everywhere, it's easy. And it gives you extra room for stuff, like water bottles.

      Having a camera on your phone is awesome. Carrying a DSLR is also awesome, and completely different.

      They say the camera doesn't make the picture, the photographer does. That may be true, but the equipment helps.

      You aren't going to get a picture like this on your phone, or with anything less than a 300mm equivalent lens. I'm not a great photographer. I think this is a pretty darn good picture. It was shot with a Nikon D90 and a 18-200 lens from quite a ways away. (I wish I knew how far. 40 yards? More? Less?) Don't know if you're going to get this from anything less than a DSLR. The DSLR doesn't matter so much. The lens does.

      http://i.imgur.com/mO8da.jpg

      And to parent: a tripod is great, but I almost never use them for panoramas. PhotoShop (even Elements) will stitch together just about any old thing into a great panorama. There's plenty of other panorama software, too.

    30. Re:two suggestions by 9jack9 · · Score: 1

      Phhft. And even pro photographers are struggling these days. There are legions of photographers everywhere with everything from fingernail cams to full-on bevawatt Mark XXII anvils who will take pictures of any damn thing and post it for free. Hard to make a living in that environment. Not that there isn't plenty of work for pro photographers. But for anyone thinking they're going to wander around with a camera and take a few snaps and make buckets of money, the competition from the hoards of amateurs working for fun is fierce.

    31. Re:two suggestions by stewbacca · · Score: 1

      My Canon takes great pictures in full auto, given enough light. It's the quality of the optics that make the difference, not so much the electronics of the camera body.

    32. Re:two suggestions by jythie · · Score: 1

      Though the mirrorless cameras are quickly catching up in flexiblity, so this is likely to not be true much longer and might not even be now (esp at the entry level).

    33. Re:two suggestions by Guspaz · · Score: 1

      If you consider that mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras have much less distance between the lens and the sensor than DSLRs, regardless of sensor size, then yes, it is.

    34. Re:two suggestions by yakovlev · · Score: 1

      For DSLRs, there are really only 3 sensor sizes: Four Thirds, APS-C, and Full-Frame.

      Four Thirds is the smallest, and I would avoid it, partially because it is the newest.

      APS-C is sort of the "standard" for DSLRs. The vast majority use this, even in the "lowest end" bodies.

      Full-Frame comes with a significant price premium, both in bodies and in lenses. While I understand the argument to buy lenses planning that you *might* move to full frame, I see no reason to jump to full frame when buying your first DSLR.

      There are advantages in newer bodies, particularly for high ISO and video, but even the oldest, lowest-end DSLR will be streaks above point-and-shoot. I've got fairly decent glass, but still shoot with an older body. I see far more difference from a new lens than I see from comparing with a new body. My trusty D70 is still one of the best cameras for flash sync outdoors due to the electronic shutter.

    35. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If you really want to get into photography and not camera collecting I would actually suggest to get the cheapest DSLR Combo. It will take you very far.

      And spend the money you just saved on art classes. Not photography classes!
      Go with classes about composition, color and basic drawing.

      Today with even the cheapest DSLR set you can beat the hell out of anything from 30 years ago when it comes to technical image quality.

      We also have far better paints and tools then most arts masters had.

      Your art depends far more on you and your creative vision then on your tools.

    36. Re:two suggestions by atrizzah · · Score: 1

      For the beginner, I really don't think there's anything wrong with getting the lowest end APS-C sensor.

    37. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      +1 - I did the same thing this time last year and ended up with a Canon 550d which is just like a T2i (it was a couple of months before the just before the T3i came out). At the time I had a stopover in Taipei and bought the 550d with the updated 18-55 lens for $200 less than I could have gotten the T2i, an option the OP *consider* (by googling "gray-market" - there are drawbacks) considering your sister's travel plans to China.

      It's an excellent system used all by itself for a semi-pro like myself and I'm still convinced it was the best choice. There are other immense advantages that seem to fit your needs: size/weight and cost. Lens off, it's roughly the same size and weight as the Fuji X100 but unlike the Fuji, you get 1080p, 18mpx, and options for lots of lenses.

      Then again I wasn't really considering MILC. When I bought it I already had a heavy, expensive 70-200 2.8L lens, and my girlfriend has a 5D mark 2 with the 24-70 2.8L lens. She uses it mostly for video, and though my 550d will never replace it for pro work, it certainly sees a lot more use. Why?

      Because of it's size and weight, it's convenient to take it around with you everywhere you go. The quality of the CCD is about as good as you're going to get out of a APC-C sized sensor. The quality of the images produced from the new 18-55 IS II is good enough for us to sell, so we have. Because of it's low cost, we lend it to family members in town to take skiing, we go to bars and leave it in a purse or backpack, without constant paranoia that someone is going to stealing it.

      When I bought it the sales people tried to sell me the 18-135 instead but it really too big & heavy to use this as a replacement for a point-and-shoot.

    38. Re:two suggestions by atrizzah · · Score: 1

      I agree 100%. To throw in my 2 cents, I was very much interested in upgrading from my Canon G10 to a MILC. What I wanted was a similarly compact camera, but with interchangeable lenses and a larger sensor. I had been holding my breath for Canon to jump into the MILC sector. I had it in my mind that they were completely missing the boat on the revolution. But when I started doing my research, I realized that I shouldn't be holding my breath.

      MILC's right now are terribly expensive compared with more capable DSLR's. What you gain in portability, you lose in lens selection, sensor size, and upgradability. The biggest problem though is that manufacturers are apparently terribly confused as to who the target audience of the MILC's is, because the particular design decisions to make the MILC a step up from the bridge camera or an alternative to the DSLR are often contradictory. I think Nikon's 1-mount is clear evidence of this. It uses a comically small sensor size, comically odd mix of features and limitations, and comically high price.

      Some people are already writing the obituary for the DSLR's, but they aren't going anywhere any time soon. Maybe in 10 years, MILC's will dominate the market, but if you want a camera today with great image quality, smooth upgrade paths, and low cost, you can't go wrong with the high-end consumer DSLR's. I ended up with the Nikon D5100, which is basically equivalent to the Canon T3i. I bought mine with a 18-55mm kit lens and a 55-200mm telephoto zoom for $760. I am absolutely loving it.

    39. Re:two suggestions by graphius · · Score: 1

      I think most people here are missing the point of these new mirrorless cameras. They will not replace DSLR's, They will replace point and shoots.
      ALL cameras will improve in image quality and capabilities over time. Cell phones will improve to the point where they will be good enough, and they will always win the most-portable category. A photographer will move a step up to get better image quality, but more important is more versatility; changeable lenses, more modes, more control, more accessories, etc. This could be filled by the new mirrorless cameras*. Currently this level is split between P&S cameras and the new mirrorless cameras. P&S cameras will become redundant. A move up from there to a DSLR gives the same versatility (assuming mirrorless gets the versatility DSLR's have now*) plus a bigger sensor** and better image quality.

      *I am ignoring the difference between viewing through an optical viewfinder and viewing an LCD viewfinder. I am assuming a huge improvement in LCD images, and yes I have looked at most modern cameras. LCD's are not the same as reality. Have a look at a high contrast scene, or a fast moving subject and get back to me...
      I am also assuming a huge investment in mirrorless accessories, including lenses, but also flash, battery packs, etc.

      **Yes I know some mirrorless cameras have a similar sized sensor to some entry level DSLR's, but again, I see that as a temporary issue. The entry level DSLR's are trying to be mirrorless cameras. The mirrorless cameras are not trying to, and will never be a replacement for a full pro DSLR.

    40. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Why is it about making money? Did the OP ask about "how to make a living as a professional photographer using only two chopsticks and a mirror"?

      What about art? Hobbies? Enjoyment? My (original) 5D stays in my cupboard 95% of my life. My cell phone is always with me. Gotta be something in between....and I'm looking at MILCs too...

    41. Re:two suggestions by Andrewkov · · Score: 1

      No, but sensor size is a factor in DOF, and DSLR's have bigger sensors. If you care about DOF, you get the the fastest prime lens and biggest sensor you can.

    42. Re:two suggestions by jafac · · Score: 1

      I disagree about using full-auto.

      I learned photography back in the days of film. And you kids (get off my lawn) - with your digital photography don't know how good you have it. It is such a luxury to be able to take hundreds or thousands of experimental throwaway shots!!!

      Set your fucking camera on S or A. Period. Bracket, and take three shots, under, on, and over. Look at the viewfinder - holy crap, you can even see a fucking preview of what your contrast range is going to look like! Get the fuck off my lawn you punks!

      Do yourself a favor, and just put a little piece of tape over the P spot on the wheel. You won't learn a damn thing until you learn to use S or A, and leave it there.

      --

      These are my friends, See how they glisten. See this one shine, how he smiles in the light.
    43. Re:two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      When the first pro DSLR Nikon bodies came out, my photo agencies were totally fine with the 3 MP images they delivered.

      Bigger sensors mean throwing away more pixels in the final render of a published image, s'all.

      Yes, there are good reasons to use more modern bodies, but I agree with the sentiment of earlier posters: buy an inexpensive "prosumer" body for under $500, and get the best lens you can. Best bang for the buck.

  2. The best solution. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Currently, only the Sony model offers full (i.e. autofocus) support compatible with their 35mm offerings. Regrettably, the adaptor is expensive. Of course the Leica M lacks a mirror, but I doubt that's what you were wondering about :p

  3. Get a Lumix by spacefight · · Score: 4, Informative

    Get a Lumix from Panasonic, to be specific, get the DMC-LX5. Outstanding picture quality and if you need to shoot a video, it's not too bad too. The hardware flip to change from different resolutions is quite nice and the 16:9 format is just perfect for printout once back home.

    1. Re:Get a Lumix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

      The LX5 is a great camera and would be a superb choice (I have the LX3 - a previous model). It does however lack a decent zoom.

      If you don't mind giving up a few other features, the Lumix TZ20 is a good alternative.

      LX5
      + RAW
      - Zoom

      TZ20
      +Zoom
      +GPS tagging
      - RAW

    2. Re:Get a Lumix by MadCow42 · · Score: 5, Informative

      I'm an ex professional newspaper and sports photographer... and my main camera is the LX5 too... quality is amazing, leica lens, 24mm wide angle, HD video, low noise, good screen.

      DSLR is great, but it's a pain in the butt to carry around. Unless you go out SPECIFICALLY to take pictures, something like the Lumix LX5 is more than enough. There's a great blog post on this:

      http://1000words.kodak.com/thousandwords/post/?ID=7136485015460840984

      MadCow

      --
      I used to have a sig, but I set it free and it never came back.
    3. Re:Get a Lumix by MichaelKristopeit420 · · Score: 0
      completely agree. i've had 3 revisions of the lumix... they all still work 100%, and i've been very impressed with them.

      i'd recommend the DMC-ZS9 though... $129 to your door.

      i'm not sure why you're looking for interchangeable lenses when you claim to have no technical knowledge. the macro mode on the lumix works great, and the lens is a 24mm leica with 16x optical zoom, and optical image stabilization. the video mode now has a stereo mic, and they moved the mic location from the far left where your index finger might cover it, and you wouldn't know your video didn't have sound until you tried to play it back.

    4. Re:Get a Lumix by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 1

      The Canon G-series is also an excellent choice.

      The Lumix LX series are well built, but I was soured by the awful noise performance of the LX1 - in fact, its poor noise performance drove me to purchase my first DSLR.

      --
      retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
    5. Re:Get a Lumix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Please try a Lumix in low light before suggesting those. I got a Lumix to give as a gift - very slow camera and blurry for dim or fast-moving shots.

      Canon is good, but I'm biased since I have a Rebel T3 DSLR. Set it to full auto, point, shoot, and just about anybody can use it with its standard lens. The only down side is that you'll be taking so many pictures that you'll have to buy more SD cards. If you turn the flash off, this one shoots almost as fast as you can push the button - excellent for sports. If you get into it, you'll want to try rentglass and KEH for trying different lenses.

      One advantage of SLR - you can't accidentally leave the lens cap on since you're looking through the same lens as the sensor.

    6. Re:Get a Lumix by bigtrike · · Score: 2

      The author has a good point, but the fact that all of his example photos are either really noisy or overcompressed doesn't help.

    7. Re:Get a Lumix by elwinc · · Score: 1
      I own a Lumix DMC FZ100 and I think it's great. Zoom range is 24X (25mm - 600mm equiv.) so there's not too many occasions when you'd even want to change lenses. It's not a shirt-pocket camera like the ZS10, but on the other hand, it shoots good 1080P video and does bursts at full resolution up to 11 frames/sec. Last night I was taking pix for my son's cooking project, hand held at 1/10 and 1/8 sec under natural kitchen incandescent lighting and they were almost as sharp as daylight photos.

      The downside of all the small sensor cameras is low light shooting. You'll just have to accept that in low light your camera is not a full 12 or 14 megapixels. What I do is force the ISO to be 100 all the time. If the ISO climbs to 200 I can see noise I don't like at full resolution; either that or noise reduction artifacts that are also annoying. So I shoot at ISO 100 and either underexpose and/or reduce the effective pixel count. Underexposure can be adjusted in post-processing; reduced pixel count is just a fact of life in low light - 3.5 megapixels is still decent for many purposes.

      --
      --- Often in error; never in doubt!
    8. Re:Get a Lumix by b0bby · · Score: 1

      Please try a Lumix in low light before suggesting those. I got a Lumix to give as a gift - very slow camera and blurry for dim or fast-moving shots.

      I doubt that it was the DMC-LX5, since the lens is f2.0. A friend has one, and it's a very nice little camera.

    9. Re:Get a Lumix by FunkyELF · · Score: 1

      I had a Panosonic FZ5 and wound up getting the Leica Elpro 2 for macros. It is a 5 element close up filter. AMAZING.
      I don't really use my Panosonic any more. I should probably sell it while it still has value. Looks like used ones are going for $99

    10. Re:Get a Lumix by skribble · · Score: 3, Informative

      I have an LX5, and it is an outstanding camera, however I recently picked up an Olympus E-PM1 and while I like the feel on of the LX5 better, the Olympus beats it in both picture and video quality. This should be expected since the LX5 has a much smaller sensor (though bigger then most compact digitals). (The LX-5 though is unique in using different area of the sensor for different aspect ratios... I really enjoy the 1:1 and the 16:9).

      This was my first foray into the whole mirrorless interchangeable lens type camera so I didn't want to spend to much so it was down to the PanasonicGF3 and Olympus E-PM1 (I considered the new Nikon J system but it cost much more for much less). The two were very similar, but the Olympus had a hotshot for the flash and accessories and felt a bit more solid so that's what I went with.

      I'm not giving up on my LX5, but I find it's no longer my go to camera.

      --
      --- Nothing To See Here ---
    11. Re:Get a Lumix by syousef · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I'm an ex professional newspaper and sports photographer... and my main camera is the LX5 too... quality is amazing, leica lens, 24mm wide angle, HD video, low noise, good screen.

      DSLR is great, but it's a pain in the butt to carry around. Unless you go out SPECIFICALLY to take pictures, something like the Lumix LX5 is more than enough. There's a great blog post on this:

      http://1000words.kodak.com/thousandwords/post/?ID=7136485015460840984

      MadCow

      Well if you use to shoot sports you should know better than advocating that a point and shoot is more than enough. Try shooting sports one sometime - very limiting.

      It all depends on what you want to shoot.

      --
      These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
    12. Re:Get a Lumix by CadentOrange · · Score: 2

      What you lose in zoom range on the LX5, you gain in aperture. The TZ20's aperture at the wide end is f/3.3 while the LX5's aperture is f/2.0. This is 1.5 stops, which is nothing to sneeze at. A wider aperture allows more light to hit the sensor and gives you a shallower depth of field which leads to better subject isolation. You also get a flash hotshoe, which is useful if you ever want to experiment with off-camera flash photography. If you're interested in photography, the TZ20 is a very poor choice compared to the LX5.

    13. Re:Get a Lumix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      There's a lot of grain there, brother. Not to make fun but for what I see that the DMC-LX5 is running at twice the price of what I paid for my Samsung HZ30W and it doesn't have the same quality of photo. And for as many negative reviews I've seen of the HZ30W I'm starting to think I got a bargin compared to what some people consider good. Either that or I just lucked out with a really good unit compared to a thousand defectives.

    14. Re:Get a Lumix by jeffmeden · · Score: 4, Informative

      More to the point, there are a lot of options above "cellphone" and below "full blown DSLR or expensive but compact equivalent"...

      The OP should visit http://www.dpreview.com/ and first look for something in his price range that is the *form factor* he is interested in (probably above super-compact but not quite DSLR-ish) and then narrow the field by price. Why form factor? Since if you aren't comfortable carrying the thing lots of places, you likely won't take a lot of pictures with it. There are plenty to choose from that aren't DSLR, in fact for cost compact cameras take GREAT macro shots that would on a DSLR be only had with a $1000+ lens dedicated to macro. Once you decide on the type of camera with the right set of features, DPreview will point you toward the similar competing models from each brand (in the full review) so you can make a very informed decision.

      I repeat, do not make a camera purchase without reading http://www.dpreview.com/ first, they offer the widest set of easy to read reviews you will EVER find.

    15. Re:Get a Lumix by chmod+a+x+mojo · · Score: 1

      The T3 is kinda crap. The T3i on the other hand...

      A T1i / T2i can be found for about the same price nowadays as the T3, comes with the same kit lens ( 18-55 IS ), has a 10 times better sensor and can shoot continuous 3-4 shots / second 8+ shots in a row before dropping to 1-2 shots per second ( if you are saving as both full resolution JPG _AND_ RAW, more shots if you just save as JPG ).

      --
      To err is human; effective mayhem requires the root password!
    16. Re:Get a Lumix by Hognoxious · · Score: 1

      Zoom range is 24X (25mm - 600mm equiv.) so there's not too many occasions when you'd even want to change lenses.

      If that's the optical [1] zoom range, either I've been overtaken by advances in optical technology or you're blind.

      [1] as distinct from the other kind, the name escapes me, which is basically a selective enlargement.

      --
      Confucius say, "Find worm in apple - bad. Find half a worm - worse."
    17. Re:Get a Lumix by squidflakes · · Score: 1

      :D

      Hey there fellow dorkroom buddy!

    18. Re:Get a Lumix by ajo_arctus · · Score: 1

      The LX5 is an excellent camera -- I have one and I would definitely recommend it to anybody who wants to take great photos with a compact camera. It's not as good as a DSLR -- even my 5 year old 350D (Rebel XT) takes better pictures -- but it's 1000x better than a phone's camera and, unlike a DSLR, it's not so bulky that you'll leave it at home most of the time. The LX5 is better than any other point and shoot I've ever used (though I haven't used the new high-end Fuji range-finder style cameras, X100 and X10, I think they're called -- they too look really excellent).

      There's also a Leica version of the same camera. It is literally the same camera, but it costs 50% more. The red dot adds a premium, but for the extra money you also get 1 year accidental-damage cover and a free copy of Lightroom. If you need those, it's worth the extra and you get a slightly more stylish/elitist camera in to the bargain ;) I got the Lumix, but only because I already have Aperture. A small part of me still wanted to get the Leica anyway...

      The only downside to the LX5 is that it's likely approaching the end of its life -- it might get an upgrade sometime this year (which'll almost certainly include the touch screen from the GF2). I just wish they'd add a view finder, even if it's really basic.

    19. Re:Get a Lumix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The LX5 is an amazing point and shoot, but it is a fixed-lens point and shoot and not an interchangeable lens camera.

      For Mirrorless, Interchangeable Lens Camera by far the best one right now is the jut released Lumix GX1
      I've used the Panasonic GF-1 and the Olmpus Ep-3 since the GF-1 first came out.

      The GX1 is really good upgrade to the GF-1 (which was one of the best first generation Micro four thirds) and it is far better than the EP-3 - better sensor, faster startup, better low light handling. Also the EP-3 has really annoying software/interface bugs which, while they might get fixed, so far make the camera very annoying to use in some situations.

      Sony also has a pretty good system, but it is not micro-four thirds compatible, and the currently available lenses are not as good.

    20. Re:Get a Lumix by YoungHack · · Score: 1

      I can +1 the Lumix as well. Pretty good as a rule on Auto, but the ability to switch to fully manual mode in challenging situations.

    21. Re:Get a Lumix by fatphil · · Score: 1

      Indeed it's optical not digital zoom. (The latter is better than when done in post-processing a smaller photo, as it's got the full sensor data to work with, not an approximation.)

      One the megapixel wars were beginning to get as stupid as the PC megahertz wars, camera manufacturers started to selectively head down a 'super zoom' warpath. 24x isn't the top you'll find. Fuji do a 30x now (HS10&HS20).

      --
      Also FatPhil on SoylentNews, id 863
    22. Re:Get a Lumix by timeOday · · Score: 1

      I just wish they'd add a view finder, even if it's really basic.

      It's worth mentioning there is an add-on viewfinder for the LX5, which even got decent reviews. (I know it says it's for the GF1, but it's also for the LX5).

      For cameras that are supposed to be compact, I think an add-on viewfinder for the hotshoe makes some sense, since you wouldn't normally need an external flash (darker scenes) and an optical viewfinder (daylight) at the same time.

      While we are at it, I have an LX3 and getting a bounce flash for the hot shoe makes a BIG difference for indoor shots. I do get teased because the flash is as big as the camera, but the photos look good. So, narrow your search for compacts to those with a hot shoe and compatible TTL flash.

    23. Re:Get a Lumix by cupcakewalk · · Score: 1

      As long as you don't need customer service from Panasonic...

      --
      -J
    24. Re:Get a Lumix by GrandTeddyBearOfDoom · · Score: 1

      It is optical, but is the equivalent FOV for a 35mm camera. Actual focal length is something like 5mm-90mm (just a guess). They manage this by having a tiny sensor that seriously compromises quality compared to a DLSR -- I was suprised just how much better photos my D3100 took when I got it a few months after my Lumix.

      --
      -- The Grand Teddy Bear has Spoken: "Windows 8 Source Code Available NOW! more disgusting than your pr..."
    25. Re:Get a Lumix by ColdWetDog · · Score: 1

      Another good source of info - rather less overwhelming than DPR is Sansmirror.

      --
      Faster! Faster! Faster would be better!
    26. Re:Get a Lumix by fatphil · · Score: 1

      Apparently about a quarter of my workmates have all decided to get camera upgrades (or at least fill niches that that their current camera doesn't satisfy) recently, and I know the Canon G12 has been mentioned more than once as being at the pinacle of point and shoot. Did you get a chance to compare the LX5 with the G12 (or even G11) at all? (And spot the novel trend - the G10 has more megapixels than the two models that came after it - Canon seemed to realise that fewer pixels grabbing more photons each was better than continuing the inane megapixel wars.)

      I'm interseted, and will pass LX5 recommendations on, even though I just pulled myself out of the game by stumping up for a 2nd hand EOS 500D, which I've yet to take out and play with as it's so bloody dull and grey here currently. :(

      --
      Also FatPhil on SoylentNews, id 863
    27. Re:Get a Lumix by MadCow42 · · Score: 2

      Those samples were from an LX1... which suffers from very poor noise. It's the reason I upgraded to the LX5 (plus the wider 24mm lens, vs. 28mm on the LX1)

      --
      I used to have a sig, but I set it free and it never came back.
    28. Re:Get a Lumix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Nice camera, but it's not a mirrorless interchangable lens...

    29. Re:Get a Lumix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's a 24X optical zoom, 4.5mm - 108mm. Since it's a small sensor (micro four thirds I believe) the crop factor is 2.0 rendering 9mm - 206mm equivalent.

    30. Re:Get a Lumix by NJRoadfan · · Score: 1

      Just keep in mind that sites like DP Review are a bit biased. Remember that manufacturers usually give these sites products to review in exchange for a favorable review.

    31. Re:Get a Lumix by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      To take good macro shots with a DSLR, you don't need a dedicated macro lens. I use a 50mm f/1.8D Nikkor, which you can get for under $200, and a reversing ring. This already gives quite decent macro shots, better than what you get from a compact camera's macro mode.

    32. Re:Get a Lumix by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      I have a Lumix GF2 and love it. The GF3 is available too, a bit more compact but also with a smaller sensor and a bit cheaper. The larger sensor of the GF2 is well worth it IMHO. Sensor size is probably the biggest factor in image quality.

      The nice thing about the GF2 and it's ilk is that the automatic mode is excellent, and you have every level of manual control in between right down to fully manual. I am still learning and this allows me to try things out easily.

      Familiarise yourself with exposure bracketing too. The GF2 and probably many other similar cameras have it built in as an option. You will need a fast SD card.

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    33. Re:Get a Lumix by jeffmeden · · Score: 1

      That's a good trick for someone already comfortable with a DSLR but it's a complete hack for someone used to a compact... No autofocus control and no aperture control kind of limit it to things willing to wait around for you to futz with the setup for a few minutes. I take it you haven't seen any shots taken with a Canon S series in supermacro mode?

    34. Re:Get a Lumix by Lisandro · · Score: 1

      Ditto. The E-PM1 can do almost everything the E-PL3 can, but has a much simplified interface and "cleaner" look (basically an plain alumium box). But, it's so much cheaper than both the E-P3 an E-PL3 that unless you really need instant acces to stuff like exposure and aperture - you can do this with the E-PM1 as well, it only takes a few clicks.

      Great little camera. I love mine.

    35. Re:Get a Lumix by polymeris · · Score: 1

      Great camera, but not interchangeable-lens, as the OP requested. If you are going to go the compact route, I can also recommend the Canon Powershot S90/95/100 series. Slightly longer and narrower lens than the LXs.

      When it comes to mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras, there aren't really that many choices. Either a four thids (Olympus, Panasonic) or an APS-C (NX or NEX).
      I made an unpopular choice opting for the Samsung NX100, which is deemed noisy (and ugly). But it is the only APS-C camera in that segment appart from the NEX line. And, like others in this topic I haven't made very good experiences with Sony. Later I compared the RAW noise at high ISOs with a friends NEX-5N (?), and found out the Samsung is actually better. The noise supression doesn't seem to be as good (or as agressive) though. And the ugly part is true, too.

      A fun thing to do with any of these cameras is to buy a few inexpensive adapters on ebay and test them with all your old manual SLR lenses. I personally am impressed by how good shots with some old Pentax (F1.4!) and Zenit lenses are.

    36. Re:Get a Lumix by polymeris · · Score: 1

      The OP should visit http://www.dpreview.com/

      I found Snapsort to be pretty useful, too. I wouldn't trust the (machine-generated) ratings & recommendations, but to compare hard specs, it is fine. Want to know which is the lightest 4/3 camera? The compact with the widest aperture? etc.

  4. Learn photography. by Nationless · · Score: 5, Insightful

    You don't have the full technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR?

    Learn it.

    Trust me, the basics are a lot easier than you think. The rest is experimentation, play and frankly, photography.

    You'll thank me in the long run when you're not stuck with a million lenses for a camera you've outgrown.

    1. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You don't have the full technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR?

      Learn it.

      Trust me, the basics are a lot easier than you think. The rest is experimentation, play and frankly, photography.

      You'll thank me in the long run when you're not stuck with a million lenses for a camera you've outgrown.

      This. In addition, MILCs are very expensive, while offering subpar image quality to entry level DSLRs. Imho, MILCs are to DSLRs what laptops are to desktops. You gain portability at the loss of image quality, bad ecosystems (read: lenses), etc...

      Everything you need to know to shoot very good pictures with a DSLR would probably fit on a piece of A5 paper.

    2. Re:Learn photography. by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 4, Informative

      Yup. MILCs are a fad... They offer some of the image quality of a DSLR at a slightly smaller package, however:

      With a telephoto lens, the size improvements of the body are less significant. In fact, you may actually be finding yourself wishing the camera body were larger due to balance issues! I know a lot of people with Pentax DSLRs and higher-end (longer/heavier) lenses keep the battery grip on at all times because of the superior balance and ergonomics.

      MILCs have the same disadvantages as P&S cameras in terms of autofocus performance - like P&S cameras, they are fundamentally limited to contrast detection autofocus, which is MUCH slower than the phase detect systems in DSLRs. 90% of the time when you see someone complain about "shutter lag" in a P&S, the lag is actually the autotofocus system reconfirming focus. (A contrast detect system must "wiggle" the focus to confirm that it is correct, even if starting at perfect focus. A phase-detect system knows when it's at optimal focus immediately.)

      Last but not least - MILC systems are FAR more expensive than entry-level DSLR kits.

      Also, the MILC industry is too early to see where things go as far as accessories and lenses. Most systems only have 2-3 lenses available to them, and there's no guarantee you'll see more.

      There's nothing saying you can't use a DSLR in a basic "program" mode - but you won't unlock its full potential. The same goes for a MILC though.

      A DSLR will give you far more potential for growth as you learn the system, a MILC will quickly deadend on you.

      --
      retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
    3. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      You have a point with the micro 4/3s cams, but what makes an entry-level Canon or Nikon better then the NEX? They're all APS-C sensors.

      There's a faction of hard-core camera nerds who adore the NEX, the form factor makes it easy to use old lenses on a modern body.

    4. Re:Learn photography. by wisty · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I didn't know about the focus thing, but from what I can tell 4/3rds seem otherwise OK.

      Their sensor is pretty big - I think they have a 2.0x crop factor (i.e. 1/4 the area, or roughly half the quality of a full frame), as opposed to a 1.6 crop factor (i.e. 1/1.6 the quality) in an entry Canon DSLR. This is streets ahead of a ~4.5 crop factor for a s95, or ~4.2 crop factor on the LX5 (or Leica rebranded version - the D-Lux 5), which are some of the best non-SLR cameras you can get.

      You can get some cute lenses. I like the way a lot of them are about 17mm, which is like a 21mm on a Canon 1.6 crop. That's a much nicer size (IMO) than the 50mm that everyone seems to get for APS-C DSLRs. Still, that's a personal thing.

    5. Re:Learn photography. by BattleApple · · Score: 2

      I agree with getting a DSLR. I bought a canon powershot S5 IS a few years ago, but now I wish I had gotten a DSLR. It's a nice enough camera for my needs, but I don't want to buy any lenses for it that I won't be able to use if I get a DSLR in the future.
      One cool thing about Canon cameras is CHDK I'm not sure if there's anything similar for other brands. I was disappointed that the S5-IS didn't have a bulb exposure setting, but you can enable it with CHDK. And it doesn't modify the firmware on the camera, it's just stored on the SD card. When you put in an unmodified SD card, the camera is back to normal.

    6. Re:Learn photography. by wisty · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I forgot to add - they are way overpriced, and so are all their gear. You shouldn't pay more than APS-C equivalents. It's just wrong to sell a smaller lens for more. When the price comes down to earth (and maybe Sigma gets involved in making 3rd party lenses), I'll definitely get one though.

    7. Re:Learn photography. by b0bby · · Score: 1

      I'd say a small point & shoot is often better, since I'm more likely to have it with me. My DSLR takes great pictures, but I can't take it with me everywhere. The DMC-LX5 recommended above would be nice if the OP can afford it.

    8. Re:Learn photography. by the_B0fh · · Score: 1

      I think I'm going to have to call bullshit based on what I read here:

      https://plus.google.com/105237212888595777019/posts/fbCZzoFEAz1

    9. Re:Learn photography. by FunkyELF · · Score: 1

      People interchangeably use DSLR instead of "camera with manual modes".
      The fact that you're actually looking through the lens doesn't really matter much.
      The SLRs design is because you couldn't look through film, so you had to have a mirror and a bunch of other things no longer needed in 2012.
      Today you can look through film, because the film is a CCD.

      All that said, I have a ton of Canon SLR equipment that I've bought over the past 2 years and I might start to regret it.

    10. Re:Learn photography. by syousef · · Score: 0

      You don't have the full technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR?

      Learn it.

      Trust me, the basics are a lot easier than you think. The rest is experimentation, play and frankly, photography.

      You'll thank me in the long run when you're not stuck with a million lenses for a camera you've outgrown.

      Or failing that put it in auto until you can be bothered learning it.

      --
      These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
    11. Re:Learn photography. by hedwards · · Score: 0

      Which comes at a cost, it's a lot easier to manually focus using the older system than it is with an EVF. True they will often times give a bit of help, but there just isn't enough pixels in the display to make that a viable option. Additionally, you give up battery life that could be used for other things like taking more photos or using a slightly smaller battery.

      I definitely think that there's room in the market for 4/3 gear, but I definitely don't think that there's any reason for the dSLR design to get completely replaced as it just brings way too much to the table at this point to ditch. Not to mention the huge array of lenses that have been developed for it over the years.

    12. Re:Learn photography. by geminidomino · · Score: 1

      I've been wondering about that myself.

      Do DSLRs still use mirrors, or internal displays that don't necessarily need to be "blocked" during shooting like an old-school SLR?

    13. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Informative

      Actually, mirrorless is going to almost totally replace SLR in the next 5-10 years. As the live viewfinder and global shutter technology surpasses the capabilities of a mirror, you'll see Nikon and Canon introduce professional mirrorless models in 35mm format that use all their old lenses as well as new mirrorless lenses that take advantage of the reduced flange-sensor distance. With a mechanical adapter you'll be able to use all the old Nikon lenses on Canon and vice versa. They'll still make one or two SLRs for the people that really want them, much in the same way that they still produce a few film cameras.

      There is no relationship between having a mirror and quality, you can make SLRs with tiny sensors just as you can make mirrorless cameras with huge ones. The latest autofocus systems on micro-four-thirds are faster than actual systems in high end SLRs. I experience shutter lag on my cheap mirrorless body when I use completely mechanical lenses so it has nothing to do with autofocus performance.

    14. Re:Learn photography. by chmod+a+x+mojo · · Score: 1

      You have a point with the micro 4/3s cams, but what makes an entry-level Canon or Nikon better then the NEX? They're all APS-C sensors.

      There's a faction of hard-core camera nerds who adore the NEX, the form factor makes it easy to use old lenses on a modern body.

      Funny, a 12 dollar piece of machined aluminum makes the whole range on Pentax "PK" mount lenses fit perfectly on my Canon EF mount body. My absolute favorite lens is an old 50mm XR Rikenon F/2.8. Absolutely beautiful bokeh and sharp enough to capture single hairs in the focal plane from 5-6+ feet away.

      --
      To err is human; effective mayhem requires the root password!
    15. Re:Learn photography. by torgosan · · Score: 1

      "The fact that you're actually looking through the lens doesn't really matter much."

      Except for framing, composition, inspecting DoF [crop sensors mangle this, sadly]. Not minor things, those.

      As for CCDs,CMOS is more likely these days, btw.

      --
      "If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in 5 years there'd be a shortage of sand". -Milton F.
    16. Re:Learn photography. by tlhIngan · · Score: 2

      Do DSLRs still use mirrors, or internal displays that don't necessarily need to be "blocked" during shooting like an old-school SLR?

      Mirrors, it's what the "SLR" bit means.

      However, many modern dSLRs can do live preview (using the LCD display instead of viewfinder), where the mirror blocks the viewfinder, but the sensor can capture data continually - required if you want to do video capture. Live preview is just a toy feature for those used to using point and shoots though. The main reason it's there is for video mode.

      And yes, many TV shows and episodes have been shot using dSLRs.

    17. Re:Learn photography. by ADRA · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Why through their entire post did they not once tackle one of the prime reasons to get DSLR's, and that's image quality? Lets assume for a moment that we have a brand new professional photographer that's somehow never bought body or glass in their lives. Would you in all your wisdom, or trey or whomever recommend picking up these cameras to do real work? In 2 years?

      Maybe a more apt question, can one buy lenses in these limtied formats with anything near the level of variety in the SLR world? Yes, it sucks that there are two basically incompatible standards that one will only buy deeper into as time goes by, but at least one knows that the investment is future proof, the lenses made with good quality components to last.

      When I see these pseudo-dslr cameras, the first thing I think is great, now there's 6 incompatible lens standards, everyone is running in different directions, nobody seems to have a good message for why these camera supplant the quality that even mid-range DSLR's accomplish, and in 5 years, will any of these platforms still be here? Forget the cameras themselves, becase even Trey admits that the technology is not here today. Or will the lenses even last that long?

      --
      Bye!
    18. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Take the lens off and have a look. My Canon EOS 350 does.

    19. Re:Learn photography. by Hognoxious · · Score: 1

      s/put it in auto/trust to Allah (PBUH)/

      --
      Confucius say, "Find worm in apple - bad. Find half a worm - worse."
    20. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Canon is great for M42, C/Y and Nikkon.

      OK, now get another EF adapter for that dirt-cheap Canon FL/FD glass and the beautiful Konica Hexanons and the Minolta lenses and oddball rangefinders. Ooops.

    21. Re:Learn photography. by ljaguar · · Score: 1

      may I ask which camera you are using? I am interested in mirrorless camera with fast autofocus performance

    22. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      He said 4/3, which is the DSLR range made by Olympus, rather than micro 4/3 which is their MILC range.

      Their 4/3 camera's are very competitively priced, and have some of the highest quality starting lenses you can buy. The only negative is that it's unclear if they are going to continue making new 4/3 cameras or totally throw their weight behind micro 4/3.

    23. Re:Learn photography. by chmod+a+x+mojo · · Score: 1

      Well now, this only took me all of 2 seconds to find. http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Optic-Canon-Adapter-Correction/dp/B00009R7ZR mount ring for FD / FL glass for manual focus on EF mount bodies.

      Don't know or particularly care about the Konica / Minolta lenses, I'm sure with a bit of machining I could MAKE the proper depth and fit to mount them on my EF mount body though... If someone else hasn't already.

      --
      To err is human; effective mayhem requires the root password!
    24. Re:Learn photography. by GrandTeddyBearOfDoom · · Score: 1

      To learn about aperture and shutter speed, try taking a DSLR out for some night time shooting where you play with apertures from f/5.6 to f/16 and shutter speeds of 10s to 30s (you need a tripod obviously). Basically there are three variables to balance: sensitivity, aperture and shutter speed. Once you have a feel for how that works, use aperture priority in daytime to let the camera choose shutter speed automatically based on light and get a feel for the choices the camera makes (you can look at the screen at the back to see the camera's choice changing). Then play with shutter speed for capturing something like moving cars (just to play with the camera rather than serious shooting). Once you've done this, play with the other features of the camera, but understanding sensitivity, aperture and shutter speed is a must for anybody who goes beyond point and shoot.

      --
      -- The Grand Teddy Bear has Spoken: "Windows 8 Source Code Available NOW! more disgusting than your pr..."
    25. Re:Learn photography. by syousef · · Score: 1

      s/put it in auto/trust to Allah (PBUH)/

      Sorry but I'm an atheist.

      Auto isn't so bad. It can sometimes outdo an experienced photographer because the more experienced you are the more you're going to want to tweak your settings and sometimes the camera's more conservative one size fits all approach does better.

      I would like to see smarter auto modes with more control though....something like a rules based setup. For example being able to instruct the camera something like as follows.
      1. Don't over/under-expose by more than 1 stop.
      2. Don't increase ISO beyond 400
      3. And if you can don't drop shutter below 1/focal length
      4. ...and if you can keep aperture above f/8

      So 2 and 3 you could almost do today with shutter priority (if you manually work out focal length), but you can't also request 4.
      Or you could do 3 and 4 with aperture but 3 is ignored
      Or you could do all 2, 3, 4 with manual (and auto ISO) except the "if you can" part would be ignored and it would blow highlights if you over-exposed.

      --
      These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
    26. Re:Learn photography. by Khashishi · · Score: 2

      There's no physics reason why MILC cannot perform better than DSLR. The Nikon 1 does implement phase contrast detection and is a MILC. I'm no photographer, but it seems to me that DSLR is obsolete technology. The optical viewfinder was essential back in the days of film, but today, you don't need it because you have a digital screen which shows you EXACTLY what the sensor is looking at.

    27. Re:Learn photography. by Caesar+Tjalbo · · Score: 1

      Trust me, the basics are a lot easier than you think. The rest is experimentation, play and frankly, photography.

      I think all there's to know fits on 1 or 2 A4's, with diagrams and tables.

      --
      "I'm not much interested in interoperability. I want substitutability. I want to be able to throw your software out."
    28. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I bought a MILC over a DSLR for two reasons: size and price.

      If you use plan to use a telephoto lens, I don't think size will be a priority.

      Yes, auto focus is slow. Manual focus helps when I want to take photos quickly of things at similar distances.

      I guess it depends on what camera and what country, but the camera I bought was less than 2/3rds the price of the DSLR I was eyeing.

      I have a Sony and their E-mount allows adaptors for other lenses.

      Technology development happens so rapidly, I think by the time I get to the point I want a DSLR, it will be time to buy a new camera anyway.

    29. Re:Learn photography. by batkiwi · · Score: 1, Informative

      You are confused somehow. A pentaprism is a viewfinder element which gives you a corretly oriented image (without it the image would be reversed in the viewfinder), not something that takes the place a a reflex mirror.

      Every dSLR has a pentaprism viewfinder and a reflex mirror. If you can find one that doesn't please list it.

      I would not consider the canon 1d series (including the new 1DX) to be "cheap" as they cost $5-10,000, and they have a reflex mirror and pentaprism viewfinder.

    30. Re:Learn photography. by Technomancer · · Score: 1

      After I got my NEX-5 first when it showed up on BHPhoto my K20D with a collection of about 10 lenses was gathering dust in my closet for like a year. I ended up sending it to my dad (Pentax user as well). But he got NEX-5 recently too ...
      So I have been using dSLRs for several years now and I find it very refreshing to use NEX-5. I don't see it as dead end either. Lens availability is becoming much better, 3rd parties start supporting it as well, starting with Tamron 18-200. I got 40m waterproof enclosure for it for like $150 where one for dSLR would cost me 10x that. I miss my Sigma 70-200/2.8 which used to be my "walk-around" lens when hiking, but in the end I hardly ever used it wide open. And NEX-7 and Zeiss 24/1.8 is almost available now, which make a deadly combo (deadly like in my wife killing me when I will buy it).
      AF is not slower compared to my K20D (which wasn't particularly fast) and I am OK with that. But then, I don't get any front or back focus issues either which constantly plague dSLRs. Plus NEX has a nice feature to adjust with DMF and contrast highlight. And while dSLRs viewfinders are nice (I used split prism focus matte and 1.2x magnifier) they kind of suck on APS-C dSLRs and they do not really show how the image will look. I find LCD preview much better idea that does't require closing one eye and losing situation awareness. I do sometimes wish I had EVF though.
      In the end the success of mirrorless cameras is speaking for itself. They are hot sellers and they are here to stay. In the end they will probably completely replace low end dSLRs and bite serious piece of high end dSLRs.
      I know I am not going back to dSLR.
      BTW, I hate Sony as a company, but I am weak, NEX is just too good.

    31. Re:Learn photography. by Cederic · · Score: 1

      Why through their entire post did they not once tackle one of the prime reasons to get DSLR's, and that's image quality?

      erm. Because there's no discernable difference?

      Same size sensor, same sensor technology, same quality of lenses, same quality of software.. exactly where is your extra DSLR image quality coming from?

      Hell, people covet a Leica M9 and it's mirrorless with a full sized sensor and it supports a full range of Leica lenses. Are those good enough, long lasting enough, available enough for you?

      (They're not cheap enough, at a guess, because they're bloody expensive. Selling well though.)

    32. Re:Learn photography. by qqaz · · Score: 1

      Haha, you're worried about 6 incompatible lens standards? That's nothing. Back in the day, you had Nikon, Canon, Minolta, Konica, Olympus, Contax, Fuji, Leica M, Leica R, Pentax, M42, and a bunch more less common ones.

      Anyway, mirrorless cameras can literally mount any lens ever made for any system. Incompatibility is a non-issue.

      --
      sup :cool:
    33. Re:Learn photography. by qqaz · · Score: 1

      Honestly, manual focus on my Sony NEX is faster than autofocus on the SLRs I've used. Instead of cycling through AF points, you just focus the lens until what you want in focus is highlighted on the screen. It's pretty impressive.

      --
      sup :cool:
    34. Re:Learn photography. by TheGavster · · Score: 1

      I fail to see where the MILC is going to produce subpar image compared to a MILC at the same product level. No, there's no MILC that will beat out a top-shelf full-frame DSLR (frankly once you build a body wide enough that the image circle can cover full frame, you might as well put in the mirror). On the other hand, a Sony Alpha or Canon Rebel isn't going to give you a better picture than a Sony NEX; it's exactly the same sensor. Yes, the glass is different, because the shorter flange height you get by omitting the obsolete mirror box allows you to rearrange things, but you can get an adapter ring to take your flange height out to any other system. For someone new to using a camera with manual settings, being set up to see in real-time the effect of those settings is far superior to having to guess what you're going to get while looking through an optical viewfinder (most SLRs lock the aperture open so you can actually see through the finder, and obviously there's no practical way to simulate shutter speed, white balance, or ISO configuration).

      --
      "Because Science" is one step from "Because old book". Try "Because of my experiment testing my falsifiable assertion".
    35. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Lenses? Just pick up a Pentax and you can use any lens they've manufactured in the last 90 years. (Yes, they are that old)

    36. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The FD adapters either have a glass element which reduces optical quality (kind of like a teleconverter) or they won't hit infinity.

      Some lenses are trivially convertable, some aren't convertable at all. Heck, a lot of M42 lenses have mirror clearance issues on the 5D because the rear element sticks back too far.

      Canon EF gear is nice. I have some. The NEX is also nice, and focus peaking on the LCD is a fantastic way to use old manual focus glass.

    37. Re:Learn photography. by TempestRose · · Score: 1

      Gotta go with this. I've got a few cheapies. Just get a DSLR that you can barely afford. You will be happy you just spent the money up front.

    38. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Easy, most DSLRs have a pentamirror instead of a pentaprism. Same principle, though.

    39. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Why should smaller lenses be cheaper? There's plenty of room to do exotic things with a 4/3 lens. Cosina makes an /0.95 lens for the 4/3 format (try that with most SLR lens mounts). And FYI, Sigma already makes lenses for the 4/3 mount.

    40. Re:Learn photography. by muridae · · Score: 1

      MILCs have the same disadvantages as P&S cameras in terms of autofocus performance - like P&S cameras, they are fundamentally limited to contrast detection autofocus, which is MUCH slower than the phase detect systems in DSLRs. 90% of the time when you see someone complain about "shutter lag" in a P&S, the lag is actually the autotofocus system reconfirming focus. (A contrast detect system must "wiggle" the focus to confirm that it is correct, even if starting at perfect focus. A phase-detect system knows when it's at optimal focus immediately.)

      You would be fundamentally wrong about that. The Nikon 1 uses a hybrid phase-detect and contrast-detect autofocus. The Sony LA-EA2 adapter for the NEX, which lets it mount their large SLR lenes, adds phase-detect autofocus. Wiki even says that the "Olympus Pen E-P3 surpassed top range DSLRs in focusing speed for still shots" in the MILC article. And the small size of the cameras, which you alluded to in your complaints, could be seen as a good thing when using a large telephoto lens. After all, the better long range lenses mount to the tripod directly, and support the camera. Having the camera, then, be smaller and lighter, would be a good thing.

    41. Re:Learn photography. by wisty · · Score: 1

      A f/0.95 25mm M4/3 lens sounds nice. I think decent 50mm prime on a larger camera should be as good, or better, but it's still pretty kick-ass.

      So it seems 3rd party M4/3 lenses *are* cheaper - you prove my point. You won't get a f/0.95 50mm APS-C or full frame less than the price of a small car. But the original manufacturer lenses are a total rip-off, much more so than in the larger formats.

    42. Re:Learn photography. by Hognoxious · · Score: 1

      in higher end pro-sumer and professional cameras there isn't a mirror, but a penta-prism. The prism allows light redirection to either the viewfinder or sensor (or both in some cases).

      I've heard of SLRs with a mirror and no pentaprism, but not the other way round. And why would anyone design a camera where the "taking" path goes through an extra unnecessary element that will cause degradation?

      --
      Confucius say, "Find worm in apple - bad. Find half a worm - worse."
    43. Re:Learn photography. by Xenna · · Score: 1

      "Live preview is just a toy feature for those used to using point and shoots though."

      Not true at all. It 's great for precision focusing especially when you're using a tripod.

    44. Re:Learn photography. by chowells · · Score: 1

      Live preview is also immensely useful for composing shots on the tripod, without having to bend down to the level of the view finder. On my Canon EOS 7D it can also be able to used to do a really quite good estimation of exposure (I do a lot of shots in manual mode).

    45. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You don't have the full technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR?

      Learn it.

      Pretty much this. In truth it'll probably take about one week before the first time you get annoyed enough with fighting the auto-adjust and look up the other options in the manual.

      I was very impressed with the A-Dep setting on my Cannon T2i for example, until the first time I couldn't get the auto-focus areas on the subject without changing the composition. A Google search to figure out what settings to change, and 5 minutes of flipping through the manual and I had the photo I was trying for. And even better, now that I know how to handle that situation, the ability to do it again is just a couple wheel turns away whenever I need it.

    46. Re:Learn photography. by Lisandro · · Score: 1

      There is no relationship between having a mirror and quality, you can make SLRs with tiny sensors just as you can make mirrorless cameras with huge ones.

      Inded. One thing mirror gives you is phase detection autofocus, which on high-end DSLRs is blazing fast. Having said that, classic (contrast based) autofocus has gotten a lot better these past years. My Olympus E-PM1 focuses faster than my friends Canon Rebel, which i couldn't beleive until we tried them side to side.

    47. Re:Learn photography. by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 1

      Phase detect in Nikon 1 - I find it highly unlikely this is true phase detect. Anyway, with a 1-inch sensor, the AF system's job is easymode, depth of field is deep so it's hard NOT to get the focus right. Let's see it achieve good results with an f/2.8 lens on a crop sensor.

      Phase detect in the NEX - You just reinforced my point, by talking about an adapter that converts the already expensive NEX into a DSLR with horrific ergonomics, an adapter which costs as much as an entry-level DSLR body. (Translucent-mirror DSLRs are still DSLRs).

      --
      retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
    48. Re:Learn photography. by slacker001 · · Score: 1

      "Everyone seems to get" the 50mm because it's a very cheap, fast prime lens. At only $100 for a Canon 1.8 50mm you can get a very clear picture with great bokeh. It's the first non-kit lens I would recommend to anyone just getting into a DSLR.

    49. Re:Learn photography. by the_B0fh · · Score: 1

      did you not read at all? He discusses at length image quality, sensor size, etc.

    50. Re:Learn photography. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I put myself through college as a professional photographer. Studied under Ansel Adams, etc. Had all the kit, Rolex twin-lens reflex, 2 Nikon backs & 5 lenses, tripods, flashes, flash-umbrellas, etc. It took a station wagon just to haul the stuff around. Yeah that was in 35mm film days but you need all the same kit to be a "real" photographer with a big DSLR rig. I eventually gave up photography when hauling all that stuff around wasn't fun anymore. It came down to enjoying my vacation or lugging gear everywhere. Now I am happy with a small, high quality Olympus Pen E-PM1 that is almost identical to the old Olympus PEN half-frame pocket camera I used to carry on my motorcycle rides. I find much more freedom NOT having to bring 2 camera bags and 30 lbs of gear everywhere I go. If you want to do photography for a living then buy the best DSLR you can and get an extra back and plenty of lenses. If you want to enjoy your holliday and take spectacular photographs too, stick with high-quality mirror-less cameras.

    51. Re:Learn photography. by polymeris · · Score: 1

      In general I agree with your post, however:

      Most systems only have 2-3 lenses available to them, and there's no guarantee you'll see more.

      This is not true anymore. There is a really wide selection of 4/3 lenses (Dozens, at least, now that sigma is making them), NX & Sony E ain't bad either (around a dozen each), Q & Nikon 1 are a sill a bit behind.

      Plus, you can use manual 35mm SLR (or DSLR) lenses through adapters with all of them, which is a big plus in my opinion.

    52. Re:Learn photography. by polymeris · · Score: 1

      Every dSLR has a pentaprism viewfinder and a reflex mirror. If you can find one that doesn't please list it.

      Sorry for being pedantic, but not all SLRs have prisms in that shape. You were asking for an example? The DMC L1 has a "Porro prism". Of course, it is still basically the same idea.

    53. Re:Learn photography. by FunkyELF · · Score: 1

      Additionally, you give up battery life that could be used for other things like taking more photos or using a slightly smaller battery.

      Electronic wins over mechanical as far as battery life. The mechanical moving of the mirror, shutter, etc will soon be a thing of the past. Displays will require less and less energy while those motors will consume the same since they are already highly optimized.

    54. Re:Learn photography. by FunkyELF · · Score: 1

      You can frame and compose using an electronic viewfinder or even the back display.

      As for DoF, I would argue that this is better to do electronically.
      Most dSLRs have the aperture WIDE open when not shooting. They do this for focusing and so that there is enough light to your eye. When I press my DoF preview button on my Canon 7D the light is reduced and I see a very dark scene on anything f/4.0 and up. I would have to imagine that DoF previewing on a mirrorless camera would be better because they could adjust the exposure (ISO and such) in software so you can preview now only DoF but exposure at the SAME TIME.

  5. DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I am a professional so I am a little biased here....I say get a DSLR. The mirrorless stuff is a neat idea but slow and lacks in quality compared to a traditional DSLR. All low end DSLR's have dummy modes that work exactly the same as a mirrorless....so you don't really have to have technical knowledge. Trust me on this, I have many family members and friends who bought low end DSLR's and they use them just like they used there compact NON DSLR's.

    With a SLR you will get better quality (well most of the time), more control and usually a wider range of lenses.

    Mirrorless basically gets you a smaller camera

    1. Re:DSLR by hedwards · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Right, which is precisely why I got a second camera to complement my dSLR. I love my dSLR for the reasons you list, but ultimately, the best camera is the one that you have with you. I've already gotten a few shots that I wouldn't otherwise have gotten because of the long lens and it being actually on me at the time.

      Personally, I'd pair it up with a good quality monopod for best results.

    2. Re:DSLR by Gaerek · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Here's something to consider, coming from Trey Ratcliff. https://plus.google.com/105237212888595777019/posts/fbCZzoFEAz1#105237212888595777019/posts/fbCZzoFEAz1 In a nutshell, in 5-10 years, DSLR's will be looked on the same way we look at VHS. It was a great technology for it's time, but it had to go. Theoretically, the only real difference between a DSLR and a MILC (or whatever you want to call them) is that a DSLR has a mirror box and the MILC doesn't. You might say that the viewfinder is different, but in reality, there is no difference. Live view on a DSLR looks like crap compared to the electronic viewfinder of, say the Olympus EP-3. True, today there are no full frame MILC (unless you count the Leica M9, which will set you back $7k), but I doubt the OP would want to spend the money on a full frame DSLR either. The Olympus EP-3 is getting absolutely rave reviews throughout the photography community. Scott Bourne, for instance has pretty much switched from DSLR's to the EP-3 and only uses his D3 and/or 5dmkii for action and wildlife photography. It's tough to think about this kind of huge paradigm change within photography, especially those who've spent tens of thousands on camera bodies and lenses, but in 5-10 years, those who are still shooting a huge clunky DSLR will be looked on like those who today are still shooting film...as very quaint. I for one will not be buying anymore lenses or accessories for my DSLR. I plan to gradually make the switch to something similar to the EP-3 over the next few years.

    3. Re:DSLR by garcia · · Score: 1

      I have many family members and friends who bought low end DSLR's and they use them just like they used there compact NON DSLR's.

      Except they can't fit the DSLR in their pocket and they take much longer to focus in auto.

      I have a DSLR and I can't imagine life without it but to say that they can be used just like P&Ss is simply not true.

    4. Re:DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I agree, DSLR's are not hard to use in Auto mode. Love my Nikon D80 DSLR although it is relatively old. Faster zoom, picture taking, and focusing than PNS cameras. I hate using PNS cameras and feel that I can never get the photo right compared to when I have a DSLR.

      With that said, DSLR's are harder to carry around. You can't just tuck them away in a short pocket and go. That and cost are probably the two biggest negatives. Whether or not this is important depends on a person's usage. For me, the benefits mentioned above far exceed these two negatives.

    5. Re:DSLR by bananaquackmoo · · Score: 2

      "The mirrorless stuff is a neat idea but slow and lacks in quality compared to a traditional DSLR" ... Then you CLEARLY have not been paying attention to recent advancements. The advancements Sony has made in its most recent generation of MILCs is nothing short of amazing. They can and DO rival full DSLRs. * Disclaimer: That said I still bought a micro four thirds instead as it was better for my use scenarios.

    6. Re:DSLR by hierophanta · · Score: 1

      Mirrorless basically gets you a smaller camera

      so mirrorless is all advantage and no disadvantage? i agree with your statement 100% the only drawback for the mirrorless is that you typically get more framecrop, but the lenses take that into account - the G1 i have now came with a 14mm (and a 2x frame crop) yielding 28mm which is just fine. the 8mm lens (16mm realized) is fantastic especially since it opens up to f1.7 this is coming from someone with a micro 4/3 mirrorless and has had lots of SLRs and one DSLR (D70).

    7. Re:DSLR by future+assassin · · Score: 1

      I'm not a professional and even though I don't like mirrors cameras (too small) I do own an Olympus EPL-1 and Panny GH1 also E-1/E420. The only thing that might be slow on those cameras would be the lens speed but that's really not an issue and if anyone says so they are full of shit and only look at the spec sheet.

      You can't go wrong with any of the cameras these days unless you can't get past the spec sheet and realise it doesn't mean as much as you think in real life. Also look at used gear. Oly EPL-1 and EPL-2 can be had dirt cheap as can lots of other dslr's

      --
      by TheSpoom (715771) Uncaring Linux user here. I have nothing to add to this but please continue. *munches popcorn*
    8. Re:DSLR by FunkyELF · · Score: 1

      Looked up the E-P3. I question their use of OLED for color accuracy and longevity.

    9. Re:DSLR by Rifter13 · · Score: 1

      I was going to post this too. I think it is VERY interesting, and really has me looking at my future purchases.

    10. Re:DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Plus with DSLR cameras from Canon, Pentax, Nikon and so on, there's a range of glass from the "merely" acceptable at budget prices, to cutting edge optics at eyewatering, wallet emptying prices. The "new" mirrorless cameras are limited to what the manufacturer provides, there isn't the range in depth that you can get for, say, a Pentax body, which can take K(etc) mount lenses from that mounts inception in the early 1980s

      Also, mirrorless viewfinders are limited. You're looking through a little lens at a tiny led screen. Admiteddly its better than holding a compact camera at arms lenght, bobbing up and down like a Meerkat, squinting at a 3 inch screen in bright sunlight. But what you see, in terms of colour and brightness is interpreted by the electronics in the camera. Its just like the disappearing optical viewfinder in the compact camera, the mirror has been done away with, not just because it makes the camera "smaller" (and I don't really want a tiny camera) but because it makes the whole system cheaper to make with more PROFIT for the manufacturer.

      I've got a DSLR, with zoom and prime lenses. It gets taken out (like my film cameras) when I want to take pictures. For when I want to do other things and take the occasional picture, I take a decent compact camera. Currently that's a Canon G11. Its got a reasonably wide range zoom, a good sensor (for its type) , all the controls you'd expect on a DSLR AND an optical viewfinder so I don't have to make myself conspicuous!

      Nikon and Fuji also make good compact cameras with optical viewfinders and zoom lenses with full control and if you can use your legs and don't need to faff about with a zoom and can afford it, then the Fuji X100 is a lirrle beaut and is coming down in price too. I wish I had one!

    11. Re:DSLR by Fri13 · · Score: 1

      Theoretically, the only real difference between a DSLR and a MILC (or whatever you want to call them) is that a DSLR has a mirror box and the MILC doesn't.

      Just based that, the man does not know almost anything about photography and physics of light.

      There are totally different visual results what is the size of the camera body, distance between focal point and sensor, sensor size, pixel size... etc. Below is the navigator for this thread, you can use this to view other messages in this thread. You can use the previous and next buttons to scroll through the messages in this thread. Or the 'Next New' button to jump to the next newly posted message.

      Smaller cameras P'nP, Compacts and especially phones will never achieve the same technical possibilities for potraits, landscapes, macros and many many other situations than what DSLR's to Medium and Architecture cameras offers.

      Example: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-sensor-size.htm
      More from same site: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm

    12. Re:DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Mirrorless basically gets you a smaller camera

      so mirrorless is all advantage and no disadvantage?

      No, it (mirrorless) has 1 primary advantage...size. It's also quieter, though that's not usually an issue since seemingly everyone has their P&S cameras set to make a fake shutter sound, thus defeating that advantage. Finally, it's one less moving part to break, though mirror mechanisms rarely break these days (even people taking more than 100k photos rarely have a mirror break). So there's 3 advantage to mirrorless, 2 of which are mostly moot. The remaining advantage, size, is likewise not always so big of an advantage. If you are strapping a 16 inch lens to the front of the thing, does it really matter if the body is an inch or so thinner? Actually, it may be a disadvantage...many photographers complain how awkward it is having a large, heavy lens and a small, light body. A tiny body is only going to magnify that awkwardness.

      On the other hand, the mirror has 1 primary advantage: autofocus is generally MUCH better. Someone above said the Sony cameras have improved on this quite a bit. I checked out the DPreview.com review on this camera ( http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonynex7/page13.asp ) and it seems it is indeed better than others for focus, but still not nearly as good as a DSLR. Another potential advantage of mirror is the ability to have a viewfinder, but that's mostly just personal preference. Years ago that was a huge advantage, as you could see so much more detail in the viewfinder. However, that benefit is being negated these days now that cameras have larger and higher resolution displays on them.

    13. Re:DSLR by Megane · · Score: 1

      I've been expecting something like this for years. The only thing I can see that DSLR technology really gets you is this: what you see through the viewfinder is what you're going to see on the film. But we're not using film anymore, and those sensors can give you some sort of picture (even if it's not quite as good as it will be when the shutter does its thing for the right amount of time*) that shows you what you're taking a picture of.

      I wear glasses, and I don't like having to bring the camera right up to my face just to see what I'm taking a picture of, so I use the display screen. Which (suprirse!) also shows you what you're going to take a picture of, framing-wise. (And as your link says, the display screen technology will get better.) This is probably my main reason (other than cost) for not wanting a DSLR: The main advantage of a DSLR would be wasted on me.

      The fact that DSLRs take interchangeable lenses has nothing to do with the DSLR technology itself. It's just that DSLR was the only professional option just before digital cameras, so it's been carried over to film-less professional cameras, and the change has been relatively fast, less than two decades.

      In the meantime, I'm sticking with my decent $500-range fixed-lens Lumix that I got a few years ago. I don't take too many pictures, so I can't justify the cost of a DSLR, nor the time to learn how to use one properly. But I don't want a baby camera, either.

      *I suppose something really bright where you need a really fast shutter speed might have bad contrast in preview. And you don't want to point it at the sun, but then you wouldn't want to do that with an optical viewfinder anyhow. Or will they even need shutters? The idea of buffering up 1/4 sec of frames from before you press the button... never miss that perfect moment again!

      --
      #naabhaprzrag, #sverubfr-000, #agi-fcbafberq, negvpyr[pynff*=' negvpyr-ary-'] { qvfcynl: abar !vzcbegnag; }
    14. Re:DSLR by chmod+a+x+mojo · · Score: 2

      Wow, that guy is an idiot.

      Professional photographers are even more loath to change anything more than lenses than businesses are on changing anything. Just like any company they won't change equipment that they know and can operate in their sleep to something new just because it is shiny. Look at how long it took for DSLRs to finally take off, and some pros STILL to this day use analog - and I don't blame em one bit, since digital still can't come close to the color qualities visually that film can. Especially in B&W film beats the living snot out of digital to this day.

      I'm a semi-pro photographer, I do some professional photography but don't do it to make a living. I bought a Rebel XT when they first came out ( moving "up" from my film SLRs ) and got some quite stunning photographs from it. I finally traded it in on a T1i when the T2i was first coming out - rather unhappily at the time I might add - because it was starting to malfunction on some shots. Even though the T1i was just an upgraded version of the XT it still took quite a while for me to learn the particular differences between them, not just the different settings but also how light sensitivity changed, differences in the Digic processors and myriads of different things that are just slightly "off" between the cameras. And you think that pros that depend on just "knowing" how their camera works in specific conditions are going to toss those out to something shiny in a short period of time?

      If you want to buy into the mirrorless hype then go right ahead, pros are gonna use their DSLRs until you pry them from cold dead hands. lets the average consumer have the hyped up shiny crap. This means more kit for me to find for dirt cheap on craigslist / ebay when eveyone foolishly sells off all their stuff for the new fad... then comes crawling back to DSLRs wanting to replace what they had.

      --
      To err is human; effective mayhem requires the root password!
    15. Re:DSLR by maz2331 · · Score: 1

      I, for one, still prefer the optical viewfinder of a DSLR to any electronic one. Plus, it doesn't suck juice from the battery, which means I can get a lot more shots per charge.

    16. Re:DSLR by mttlg · · Score: 1

      Right, which is precisely why I got a second camera to complement my dSLR. I love my dSLR for the reasons you list, but ultimately, the best camera is the one that you have with you.

      Been there, done that, never used the thing. About five years ago I bought a compact camera using this reasoning, but I rarely found myself in a situation where I felt like bringing a camera with me but didn't want the DSLR. I took maybe three pictures with it back in 2007 and haven't even gotten them off the card yet. The convenience seems like it should be worth it, but the compromises are just too great for me; I can't even go back to my old DSLR because of the big drop in image quality and capability. If I want to take pictures, it's no big deal to toss the camera and two or three lenses in a bag. If I don't, then I still have a cell phone for random stuff of little consequence - my pockets are full enough as it is, so even adding a compact camera is extra stuff to carry, plus different memory cards and batteries to deal with, different controls to figure out, and a big handicap in performance. I just don't see the middle ground, but that's just me. The best camera for me is the one that can get the shot. If I don't have it with me, then I just look and get on with my life.

    17. Re:DSLR by ben_kelley · · Score: 1

      the best camera is the one that you have with you

      For this reason my backup (non-DSLR) camera is my phone. I have an in-between compact somewhere in a box in the garage, but to be honest, the convenience of having the phone with me at all times wins. If I know I want to take some care with a photo I bring my DSLR.

    18. Re:DSLR by lahvak · · Score: 1

      I am not a professional, but I shoot a lot, it is a hobby that is seriously out of control. I have had a DSLR for a while now, and I love it, on the other hand, I would not say it is necessarily the only way. It depends a lot on your style of shooting, and your style of shooting depends a lot on your camera.

      In a sense, each camera type is a compromise, 35 mm SLR is a compromise compared to a large format in some ways, but I definitely would not want to lug a large format camera on my backpacking trips, even though it would make awesome landscapes. People used to say that 35 ml SLR was the only way to go, but then look at all the amazing photos people took with stupid rangefinders!

      I would say get a camera you like, you have now the advantage to get very good reviews of pros and cons of various cameras on the net. One thing I would definitely advise you: whatever camera you get, get it well in advance before going on your important trip where you want to use it, and learn it well! In my opinion the best camera is the camera you know. I made a mistake of buying my new DSLR right before a large trip, and the whole time I handled it as if it was an old film SLR, which I went through a number of in my time. After the trip, I was initially very disappointed with the camera when I was going through the pictures after my trip. Since then I learned how to use it, and now I love it nearly as much as I loved my old Exacta VX 1000 way back.

      --
      AccountKiller
    19. Re:DSLR by jrumney · · Score: 1

      The camera I have with me every time is my phone. If I'm going to specifically take a camera, I want a dSLR. Why anyone would buy a compact these days is beyond me. Most of them are as slow, noisy and unfocused as a phone camera anyway. Yes you get 12 million noisy pixels rather than 5 million, but what is the point? If I'm going to print any larger than 6x4 I'll be using my dSLR, and quite frankly the 2Mpx compact I had 10 years ago took better pictures than any modern compact I've seen.

    20. Re:DSLR by Goaway · · Score: 1

      The only thing out of that that actually affects the visual result is the sensor size. And the sensor size of a mirrorless camera is mostly the same as that on a DSLR. This is not about compacts or phones, this is about mirrorless cameras.

    21. Re:DSLR by adisakp · · Score: 1

      I am a professional so I am a little biased here....I say get a DSLR. The mirrorless stuff is a neat idea but slow and lacks in quality compared to a traditional DSLR.

      The mirrorless cameras actually have the fastest response times out there. The shutter lag on the upcoming NEX 7 is 0.02s.

    22. Re:DSLR by nikanth · · Score: 1

      Professional Trey Ratcliff says, no moe DSLRs only MILCs err..3rd gen digital cameras http://www.stuckincustoms.com/2012/01/04/dslrs-are-a-dying-breed-3rd-gen-cameras-are-the-future/

    23. Re:DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sorry, but he lost me at "Only the high-end pros use full-frame sensor DSLRs." This is so completely wrong that it's clear that he knows nothing about the camera market.

    24. Re:DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The idea of buffering up 1/4 sec of frames from before you press the button... never miss that perfect moment again!

      You'll still miss it. Either the exposure will be off or the focus will be off or the framing will be wrong or the shutter speed will be too slow or the depth of field will be too shallow or too deep or your hand wasn't steady or you were looking in the opposite direction and still missed the whole thing... The shot timing is just the final step in a big sequence of events that leads to capturing that moment - there's no quick fix. Information overload sure isn't going to save the day.

  6. MILC are a good choice... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    There's plenty of technology, not just hype, panasonic and olympus lines are both very nice. Don't dismiss the idea of 'larger' DSLRs though. A basic Canon Rebel or similar entry level Nikon can be used as point & shoot but give plenty of room to learn about exposures and lenses. The main thing the MILC cameras get you is that they are physically smaller (body & lenses) with a slight tradeoff in potential image quality

  7. No reason not to get a dSLR by RDW · · Score: 3, Insightful

    I'm sure there are excellent 'mirrorless' cameras too, but a dSLR doesn't require any great technical expertise. Just pick up one of the entry-level Nikon or Canon models (which are pretty small, and typically come as kits with versatile standard zooms). You can start off shooting in program mode with the kit zoom, which is no more difficult than using a phone camera. If you choose, you can add dedicated macro and telephoto (or longer zoom) lenses later.

    1. Re:No reason not to get a dSLR by halivar · · Score: 1

      I got a Nikon D3100 (pretty much bottom of the DSLR's) and in the space of about 2 hours (of Googling) I went from rock stupid on camera's to shooingt competently without needing to use auto mode.

      Then I learned just to keep my camera with me wherever I go in a holster. Because, after all, the best camera is the one you have with you.

    2. Re:No reason not to get a dSLR by maz2331 · · Score: 1

      I too use a D3100, and have found it to be a great camera. The absolutely most important technical factor in ANY camera is the quality of the glass, and even the "kit" 18-55mm lens that comes with them is sharp enough to capture pixel-level details on the 14.2 MP sensor, with no appreciable distortion at any zoom. Image quality is far in excess of what I ever got from my old film SLRs, including the venerable Nikon FA (which was close to top-of-the-line in its day).

      I looked at the higer end models such as the D5100 and D7000, and didn't find the marginal improvements to be compelling enough to justify spending 200 - 500 dollars more than I did on the D3100, which just rocks.

    3. Re:No reason not to get a dSLR by halivar · · Score: 1

      There are some awesome cheap upgrades available, too. Froknowsphoto suggests the f/1.8 35mm prime lens (about $200) as a great first upgrade for the D3100. The bokeh shots I got of my nephew at f/1.8 in front of the Christmas tree were amazing.

    4. Re:No reason not to get a dSLR by HopefulIntern · · Score: 1

      I just got a D3100 for xmas, and wow they really are a fantastic bit of kit (but don't take my word for it, the web is full of glowing reviews). Its cheap enough that you can justify it for a beginner, and easy enough to learn on as well. I started out on the Auto mode (which really does all the work for you and takes excellent pictures) and started to learn how to use it. It even has a guide to help you learn, interactively. So +1 for the D3100!

  8. It's not all marketing by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Informative

    It really has to do with the size of the sensor. The bigger the sensor the better the picture is going to be. The MILC cameras you are referring to have almost the same sensor size as DSLR's and a way way bigger sensor then in your mobile phone. See the article below for more information:

    Why your cameras sensor size matters

    1. Re:It's not all marketing by hedwards · · Score: 0

      That used to be a lot more true than it is today. My current travel has a ~5x crop factor and does quite well in terms of light sensitivity and noise reduction. Yes, it's not going to compete with a full sensor or one with a less severe crop, but ultimately it's easier to bring with me and for most amateurs it's going to be just fine.

      These days I use a Canon Powershot SX40 HS and I never would have thought that I could get that kind of image quality and size out of a P&S camera. It's definitely more than enough for most people. Plus, it allows one to get used to how to make pictures before committing to one lens system or another.

    2. Re:It's not all marketing by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Nice to see that they still let jackasses have mod points around here.

    3. Re:It's not all marketing by maz2331 · · Score: 2

      It's also related to the quality of the lens. The physically smaller the lenses are, the tighter the tolerances and harder it is to make them truly sharp and distortion-free.

  9. what? by bedonnant · · Score: 4, Insightful

    so you don't have the knowledge to appreciate a dslr, yet you're willing to buy a similarly expensive mirrorless camera with multiple lenses?

    --
    ~~~ Paf. Le chien.
    1. Re:what? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "Similarly expensive"? You need to do a bit of research before making blanket statements like that.

      I shoot with the Canon 5D Mark II and the Canon 7D. The 5D Body without lens was $3500 when new (now they go for $2000). My most expensive lens, a very high quality 21mm Zeiss was $1800. I shoot those regularly for professional use and love the flexibility and image quality I get. I bought my wife an Olympus e-pl1 when they first came out. It's 12 Megapixels, has a large sensor size and take freaking great pictures. No not as good as the 5D or 7D and then lenses aren't as good either, but it's waaay better than a phone or point and shoot. That camera sells WITH LENS for under $300.

      And what camera do we take on vacation? The olympus. It's plenty good enough for casual holiday snaps and even semi-serious work. And you're not walking around with $5000 worth of gear just begging to be robbed.

    2. Re:what? by Nemyst · · Score: 2

      Similarly expensive for similar quality, obviously. Nobody's going to compare the most expensive body Nikon or Canon has to offer to consumer-level mirrorless cameras.

    3. Re:what? by hedwards · · Score: 1

      Precisely. For under $400 these days you can get a really impressive camera that will get shots that were previously only attainable with pro gear and not have to worry about being robbed or it being too heavy to carry around.

      As much as I love my old 10D and my Canon 70-200mm F2.8L IS, it's just a lot of gear to lose and more importantly just to carry around. With tripod, I'm looking at something like 30lbs., just to walk out the door.

      When I got my new camera I was shocked at how well it did with normal tasks. It takes forever to focus and the manual controls aren't as good, but most people aren't going to get better results with a more expensive system.

    4. Re:what? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'm a 7D owner as well, but for vacations I bring a Rebel that I picked up used. I usually bring along a few of my cheaper EF-S lenses. All told, the gear I bring probably cost me under $600. The Rebel is also my spare to let friends shoot when they want to learn or we go some place where we want to take a lot of nice photos.

      I'll grant that olympus setup that you got your wife is a few hundred dollars cheaper, but it doesn't offer room to grow like a low-end DSLR does. For under $600 or so, the poster can get a Rebel and a few EF-S lenses. If he finds that he enjoys it and wants to get more into it, he can get a 7D and continue to use his existing lenses. When he reaches the point where I am, he can start investing in more expensive lenses (I recently bought my first L-lens and am loving it :-) Beyond that, there's the full-frame cameras like the 5D, though only the EF lenses will work with it.

      Both Canon and Nikon have done an excellent job offering affordable starter versions that allow you to grow into the stuff the pros use. I'm not sure I see the rationale for opting for the middle ground between the point-n-shoot options and DSLRs that doesn't offer you that potential.

    5. Re:what? by Hognoxious · · Score: 1

      I'd question the wisdom of going with two incompatible lens mounts.

      --
      Confucius say, "Find worm in apple - bad. Find half a worm - worse."
  10. Seems strange to me... by Stoutlimb · · Score: 3, Insightful

    You are posting on a technical site, say you are very interested in camera technology, but say you don't understand DSLR? I suggest a good DSLR tutorial rather than this feeble attempt at a slashvertisement.

    1. Re:Seems strange to me... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      At what point does the poster ever say they are "very interested" in any technology? I didn't see it.
       
      I guess making up crap that isn't in the blurb to make the submitter look like they're answering their own question is enough to get you modded up on Slashdot now-a-days. How's that meta mod system suppose to work again?
       
      And as for the slashvertisement... what product are they trying to push exactly? If you're trying to claim that it's a slashvertisement because the submitter is pointing to a new and still somewhat fringe technology and asking about it's useful than just about every thrid Ask Slashdot is a slashvertisement.
       
      Weak. Just plainly weak.

  11. Olympus PEN Series by wazzzup · · Score: 1
    1. Re:Olympus PEN Series by bashibazouk · · Score: 3, Informative

      I just bought the E-PM1. I like it. It's smaller and easier to carry than the bulky DSLR's but still has good depth of controls, fast auto focus and shutter. Image quality is not as good as the current generation of DSLR's but it's as good as most of these proponents photographs proving DSLR's are the best that were taken with previous generation of DSLR's for what that's worth.

      Just keep in mind Olympus is currently on life support and it's not known at this time if it will survive or the camera division will be sold off to someone and what they would do with the product line and the 4/3 standard. The lenses at least are compatible with Panasonic should that happen...

  12. +1 two suggestions by Tsiangkun · · Score: 4, Informative

    I wont own a Sony because I have personal issues against the entire brand, but the NEX5 NEX7 cameras are awesome at photos and video. The manual controls are easy to use, and the auto settings produce great photos. The only down side to the camera is that it feels like a cell phone that somebody turned into a camera. The sensor is world class tho, and there are adapters to mount old range finder glass onto it. The panasonic micro four thrids cameras are all great. The GX1 with the pancake zoom lens could be really appealing to you. You would also be happy with the GF3 if you want more auto features and features in general, and maybe the G3 if a more traditional dslr inspired design fits your hands better.

    1. Re:+1 two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      If you have kids, or other reasons to want a fast camera to capture action shots, despite the smaller sensor size, the Nikon v1 is getting awesome praise from friends of mine that were harsh critics of the design before they handled it.

      It also does video, and lets you capture still images while taking video.

    2. Re:+1 two suggestions by gnatman64 · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I really dislike Sony, and I never thought I would buy, much less recommend one of their products, but I am very happy with my NEX-5N. It fits great in my jacket pocked with the zoom lens, and in my pants pocket with the pancake lens. I almost always keep the zoom lens on it though, because not having a zoom is very limiting. I'm just finishing up a 2 week vacation traveling all over Germany, and the camera has been the best I've ever owned. I get very near DSLR quality photos, but it's no hassle to keep my camera with me. The only thing I miss is a larger zoom. The lens that I've seen so far for better zooming is huge, and hardly seems worth it to tote around. As the camera is now, it's very easy to use, and very easy to make some amazing photos.

    3. Re:+1 two suggestions by s4ndm4n · · Score: 1

      Interesting, your review on their product is so high but you claim you'll never own something from Sony. How do you know so much about the camera if you never purchased one? Isn't it hypocritical to say that you won't buy their product and yet still recommend it for someone else and talk about it's quality? Let alone, you must have used one to have such details about it. I'm just sayin'

    4. Re:+1 two suggestions by v(*_*)vvvv · · Score: 4, Informative

      I own a NEX5, and it is the best camera Sony has put out in a VERY long time. And it has really helped Sony revive the reputation of their cameras.

      When choosing photo quality, the size of the sensor and the lens are the 2 biggest components. Everything else helps, but can never make up for these two components. And the screen shows you what you are shooting, and what you just shot, so the specs of the screen are extremely important. The NEX5 screen is huge, hi-res, and tilts. This means you don't have to be looking straight at the screen to view it properly. Overhead shots are a breeze, and no more bending your knees with tripods. The video is amazing too, and has its own button.

      With its small form factor, proper lens, huge sensor, tilting LED screen, and HD video, this camera was an instant hit. It can also take great shots with little light.

      The only nag is its controls. They are oversimplified, and the advanced features are buried in menus. If the shortcuts aren't what you use, there is no changing them, but they do cover most use cases.

      The best part though, is my aunt was able to pick it up and use it right away. So without a DSLR camera, almost anyone can enjoy DSLR photos, without the weight, the geeky look, and any prior knowledge of photography.

      It's been a while since the NEX5 was released, and there are a lot of MILCs now. The screens have all gotten better, and HD video is pretty much a given. At this point I am sure there are other comparable offerings from other brands, but there is no doubt in my mind that the NEX5 was a trailblazer in the MILC market.

    5. Re:+1 two suggestions by Tsiangkun · · Score: 1

      Three of my best friends and one professional photographers I hang out with have them. I have spent a lot of time with the camera. They are very nice, but i will not give Sony my money.

    6. Re:+1 two suggestions by gumbi+west · · Score: 3, Funny

      Do you dislike Sony because of Sony Pictures Classics underwhelming rendition of the Jane Austin novel Persuasion?

    7. Re:+1 two suggestions by adisakp · · Score: 1

      I wont own a Sony because I have personal issues against the entire brand, but the NEX5 NEX7 cameras are awesome at photos and video.

      The NEX 7 will not be available to purchase until April 2012 due to production issues and flooding in Thailand. Certain camera professionals and reviewers were able to get "review" models of the camera earlier in 2011 but no one can yet make claims about the actual shipping NEX 7 camera.

    8. Re:+1 two suggestions by Man+On+Pink+Corner · · Score: 1

      You're not alone there. The whole Sony brand is pure poison, at this point.

    9. Re:+1 two suggestions by funwithBSD · · Score: 1

      Both the NEX and the A33/55/77 come from the Mind of Minolta.

      The A series takes the Minolta lenses directly and the NEX will with an adapter ring. That gives you access to some of the best optics made for reasonable prices off Craigslist. The iconic "beer can" zoom and the 1.8 50mm Primary come to mind

      If I were traveling light, the NEX is one of the best available right now in the consumer range.

      While I love the a33, it is not a stick in your pocket camera.

      --
      Never answer an anonymous letter. - Yogi Berra
    10. Re:+1 two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Too bad your blind hatred for Sony will prevent you from using a very nice camera. Make sure you don't use Google products either, as those assholes piss on the users all the time.

    11. Re:+1 two suggestions by Man+On+Pink+Corner · · Score: 2

      I don't recall getting any rootkits from Google.

    12. Re:+1 two suggestions by arglebargle_xiv · · Score: 2

      I really dislike Sony, and I never thought I would buy, much less recommend one of their products, but I am very happy with my NEX-5N

      If it helps, when you buy a "Sony" DSLR or DSLR-derived camera you're actually buying a Konica-Minolta Maxxum, Sony bought their camera division lock, stock and barrel. So while your money's going to Sony, you're getting a Konica-Minolta-built camera.

      (Having said that, I don't know how much that group's products have now been poisoned by Sony's braindamaged business ideas).

    13. Re:+1 two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Google never sold something and then stole back features that were paid for.

    14. Re:+1 two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I also had to change my view on Sony cameras. Back in days they used to make still cameras more like video cameras that sucked shooting stills.

      Today Sony is something to check, especially with their point&shoot products.

      Their waterproof DSC-TX5 has been very good all year camera for traveling. Fit's any pocket, takes a lot of hit and shoots nice, just little over saturated, photos even in dark conditions. First thought Canon S90 would be perfect, but really? Pocket camera that has so many small breaking parts and gaps just waiting there for some sand and beer inside! Sony came clear winner, even photo quality is little worse.

      Unfortunately it seems they sucked with latest model and replaced resistive touchscreen with capacitive. Which makes their latest waterproof unusable under water. Bummer! They had really good concept there!

    15. Re:+1 two suggestions by MagusSlurpy · · Score: 1

      Or paying Google for anything.

      --
      My sister opened a computer store in Hawaii. She sells C shells by the seashore.
    16. Re:+1 two suggestions by stewbacca · · Score: 1

      I don't recall Google ever making high quality cameras.

    17. Re:+1 two suggestions by jythie · · Score: 1

      Something to keep in mind, 'Sony', in many ways, is not a single company. Each division acts almost independently... in fact there was an amusing case years ago where two divisions of Sony ended up on opposite sides of a law suit. So individual divisions can be crummy, but others can be pretty good.

    18. Re:+1 two suggestions by Man+On+Pink+Corner · · Score: 1

      But if they did, I would consider their camera when shopping for a new one, because they haven't given me any reason not to.

    19. Re:+1 two suggestions by stewbacca · · Score: 1

      That's a fanboy statement, and I hate calling people fanboys.

      How about "they don't know the first thing about making a good camera because it's not their industry" for a good reason not to?

      I'm an Apple fanboy, they've not given me any reason not to buy their computers, routers, tablets or phones, but if they made a car tomorrow, I wouldn't buy one. (had to get the car analogy in there somehow).

    20. Re:+1 two suggestions by Man+On+Pink+Corner · · Score: 1

      Sounds like you've spent a bit too much time gazing into the proverbial abyss. I said I would consider the hypothetical Google Camera, not instantly buy it sight-unseen. I'd have no reason to reject it without knowing anything about it.

      OTOH, while I wouldn't consider an Apple-manufactured car since I enjoy violating the occasional speed limit, I probably would buy a hypothetical Apple car stereo head unit without asking too many questions, just because all of the existing options suck so badly.

      With cameras, there are a large number of reputable manufacturers who all have products that range from tolerable to excellent, and who have not historically attempted to sodomize their own customers with a pipe wrench. I don't need to consider Sony when buying a camera because whatever they're doing that's so awesome is also available from Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, Fuji, Leica, or whoever.

    21. Re:+1 two suggestions by stewbacca · · Score: 1

      I'd have no reason to reject it without knowing anything about it.

      Really? I mean, if Google actually engineered or manufactured anything that was remotely similar to a DSLR, I'd say, sure, give it a look, but they sell advertising using software engineering as a vehicle. What little hardware they make hardly lends itself towards being able to make a high quality camera with their existing business models.

      Do you think Google can just throw some capital at making a DSLR and it will be worthy of any serious consideration?

      I know there's a business term for all of this, but I'm not smart enough to know it.

    22. Re:+1 two suggestions by Man+On+Pink+Corner · · Score: 1

      Remember how many said the same thing about Apple. They had never released a cell phone before, and had no core competencies in that area... up until they suddenly did.

      I don't anticipate Google getting into the camera business, though, or Apple for that matter. There are already a lot of competitors, dividing up a market that is probably shrinking, and meanwhile few people are complaining that all available digital cameras suck. I could be wrong, though... they might be working on a line of subsidized cameras that insert product placements into the photos you take. :-P If Google did produce cameras, there would need to be some kind of strategic angle like that.

    23. Re:+1 two suggestions by Andrewkov · · Score: 1

      Apple is already in the camera biz. The fastest growing camera on flickr is the iphone.

    24. Re:+1 two suggestions by jafac · · Score: 1

      True: also. . . if you get the alpha-series Sony, it is more of a DSLR. It is less compact, and the lens does not actually move. The viewfinder is not a live TTL viewfinder, which a lot of DSLR users see as a non-negotiable trade-off, because of the lag. But with my alpha-55, there is no lag. Sony has conquered the lag problem.

      How does the light get through the mirror to the sensor if the mirror is fixed? It's an LCD, so the mirror becomes partially transparent during shutter-open.

      The cons are: a tad less light gets through to the sensor, so obviously, they have to use a more sensitive sensor, noise-reduction. But again, the image quality is on-par with Canon and Nikon, so really, it's not a problem.

      The pros to the fixed mirror are: lighter weight than a full reflex mirror system, less mechanical complexity, faster and quieter action, you can zoom and focus DURING video shooting, you can live-preview your aperture. This camera is very fast.

      This camera is also quite a bit less expensive than the Canons and Nikons with equivalent feature sets. It's also got a built-in GPS.

      The only problems have to do with not being able to do much with the White Balance other than selecting Sony's pre-sets, and the operation of the controls and menus is pretty much the same as all Sony consumer-level cameras: which is very different than what a pro would expect on this level of DSLR camera. Also, it uses Sony "smart" batteries, which are pretty pricey, like $40. And it goes through them pretty quick, so I'd recommend buying about 3-4 of those as well. You can use any Pentax or Konica glass, as well as the Sony alpha mount lens system.

      Also: the onboard HDR function kind of sucks. You can auto-bracket to RAW, and process in photoshop or however you do your HDR, you get better fine control over contrasts and ranges that way anyway.

      --

      These are my friends, See how they glisten. See this one shine, how he smiles in the light.
    25. Re:+1 two suggestions by arglebargle_xiv · · Score: 1

      Also: the onboard HDR function kind of sucks. You can auto-bracket to RAW, and process in photoshop or however you do your HDR, you get better fine control over contrasts and ranges that way anyway.

      I'd never use any onboard HDR for anything more than a preview of what your actual HDR is going to look like. If you look at the amount of memory- and FP-math-intensive processing required for something like tonemapping then there's no way an embedded core in a camera can do that properly (and most of the HDR process isn't amenable to hardware assist, unlike basic stuff like demosaicing). In addition for all but the most generic, mild HDR you're going to need to fiddle with parameters to get rid of halos, artefacts, clown-vomit results, and so on, which you really can't do in-camera.

      So using only in-camera HDR is a bit like buying a $2000 DSLR and then keeping it in program mode all the time. OTOH a large percentage of the user population does that, so I guess the in-camera HDR at least has a marketing benefit.

    26. Re:+1 two suggestions by Man+On+Pink+Corner · · Score: 1

      True, but I think he was mostly referring to DSLRs.

    27. Re:+1 two suggestions by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I really dislike Sony, and I never thought I would buy, much less recommend one of their products, but I am very happy with my NEX-5N. It fits great in my jacket pocked with the zoom lens, and in my pants pocket with the pancake lens. I almost always keep the zoom lens on it though, because not having a zoom is very limiting. I'm just finishing up a 2 week vacation traveling all over Germany, and the camera has been the best I've ever owned. I get very near DSLR quality photos, but it's no hassle to keep my camera with me. The only thing I miss is a larger zoom. The lens that I've seen so far for better zooming is huge, and hardly seems worth it to tote around. As the camera is now, it's very easy to use, and very easy to make some amazing photos.

      i am going facebook

  13. Hang out on a deal site by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Like Woot, saleaday or whatever, and just get what comes up next.

    Or wait till some of the comments post a better offering.

  14. Overconstrained problem definition by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Why get one camera with 2 lenses when you could just get 2 cameras?

    1. Re:Overconstrained problem definition by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Why get 2 cameras when you could just get one camera with 2 lenses?

    2. Re:Overconstrained problem definition by Jeremy+Erwin · · Score: 1

      Because no one is going to sell a fixed lens camera that only does telephoto, or is only good for wide angle shots. They're going to try to sell a camera that compromises.

    3. Re:Overconstrained problem definition by skribble · · Score: 1

      Bzzzt... Actually some very excellent fixed focal length wide angle camera exist. Back in the "film" day most photog's I knew carried around Olympus SylusEpic's with the fixed 3.5 1:2:8 lens. Awesome camera!

      Also see this: http://www.sigmaphoto.com/shop/dp2s-compact-digital-camera

      A good fixed lens will beat a good Zoom lens in image quality every time.

      --
      --- Nothing To See Here ---
    4. Re:Overconstrained problem definition by Hognoxious · · Score: 1

      That's not a wide angle. Correcting for the format size, it's more or less equal to a standard lens.

      --
      Confucius say, "Find worm in apple - bad. Find half a worm - worse."
  15. Wrong forum by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    You want www.dpreview.com

    1. Re:Wrong forum by strikethree · · Score: 1

      Wrong forum?! WTF? There are lots of camera nerds here. This may not be the best forum for his question but I have learned a lot more from the answers and positive attitudes here than I would in a week of random web searches on the subject.

      Meh, this was the right place for this. Go be elitist somewhere else.

      --
      "Someone needs to talk to the tree of liberty about its ghoulish drinking problem." by ohnocitizen
  16. Four-Thirds is the Way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I have spent a good amount of time researching this -- and incidentally, so has the manufacturers. The conclusion is the best compromise between image quality and size is the Four-Thirds sensor. With the Micro Four Thirds bodies, you get better image quality with higher ISO than the Nikon V1/J1 series, and smaller lighter bodies and lenses than the Sony NEX with very little compromise in field of view or high ISO image quality. Moreover, the micro four-thirds lineup has a breadth of high quality lenses, and is adaptable to pretty much anything. I personally ended up with a GH1 as it has a slightly larger than normal sensor for a 4/3s body, making it a good hybrid camera which does 16:9 very well, and is optimized for Video use. On the other hand, if you do not think video is of much importance, the Olympus bodies have in-body stabilization making it possible to use TONS of manual focus lenses for cheap, with low cost adapters yielding amazing results. Bottom line -- don't get sucked into the brand name and the idea of bigger is better for sensor size.

    1. Re:Four-Thirds is the Way by Warwick+Allison · · Score: 1

      Image quality is proportional to sensor size. There is no "best" compromise any more than there is a car out there that is "best" some people find a compact (car or camera) more convenient, resulting in more good photos purely by availability.

      The maxim: the best camera is the one you have on hand when you need to take the shot. Sometimes that is your phone, sometimes you've got something that doesn't fit in you pocket.

  17. cameras by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Hi. You might consider a camera such as athe Fujifilm S-2950 or a similar model. While the lenses are not interchangeable, the current crop of such cameras have an electronic vierfinder, 18x to 36x lenses (depending on the model) and are pretty nice cameras that can probably handle all of your needs. Image stabilization helps a lot to get clear shots. I like cameras that take AA batteries, as I can use AA NiMH rechargeable batteries. I am a serious amateur photographe rand I like to try macro shots, night shots and take photos in unusual situations. My Fijifilm S-2950 has never dissapointed me yet.

    1. Re:cameras by ackthpt · · Score: 1

      Hi. You might consider a camera such as athe Fujifilm S-2950 or a similar model. While the lenses are not interchangeable, the current crop of such cameras have an electronic vierfinder, 18x to 36x lenses (depending on the model) and are pretty nice cameras that can probably handle all of your needs. Image stabilization helps a lot to get clear shots. I like cameras that take AA batteries, as I can use AA NiMH rechargeable batteries. I am a serious amateur photographe rand I like to try macro shots, night shots and take photos in unusual situations. My Fijifilm S-2950 has never dissapointed me yet.

      This is the first bar which must be crossed for any digital camera I buy. I'm never buying another camera which uses some stinkin' Lithium battery, which once it's done I'm there with a dead camera. I carry several sets of charged NiMH cells in my backpack, which can be used in any device I need them in. Should I be on an extended trip, I can always pick up some Alkaline cells in a shop to hold me over in an emergency - try that with Lithium.

      Also, I've had it with these optical sensors which scan with the little nano mirror - the quality is only suitable for small prints, because larger prints reveal how poor the actual resolution is. 14 megapixel ... riiiiight, more like 1 megapixel blown up. I picked up a cheap Olympus, which is OK for some things, but a very stupid camera in certain lighting and zooms - in brief: too much fighting to get a picture. Stick with cameras where the resolution is the actual resolution of a CCD device, not something which extrapolates or scans or any other smoke & mirrors method to inflate resolution.

      --

      A feeling of having made the same mistake before: Deja Foobar
    2. Re:cameras by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I agree with you fully. But this means no DSLRs (they're all moving to proprietary batteries), and increasingly, no superzooms either (ditto, although there are still a few - but not for long).

  18. Sony NEX-7 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Has the best performing sensor of any camera currently available that is under $10,000.

    They are hard to come by right now due to demand and natural disasters.

    Visit www.dxomark.com for details on sensor testing of a large number of digital cameras.

    FWIW, the Sony NEX-7 scores better than the Sony Alpha 77SLT, even though they both have the same sensor. The difference is that the A77SLT has a translucent mirror and that detracts from the image quality.

    1. Re:Sony NEX-7 by liquidhokie · · Score: 1

      I just got an A77, and I can't understand how anyone could knock the image quality. It has 24 mpixel, I am not impressed with 1:1 blowups detailing every errant pixel.

      Having said that, the A77 is probably not what the poster is looking for, and if the NEX7 is half the camera the A77 is (and it is probably more like 90%, which makes me *almost* regret getting the A77), you won't regret it. Good luck finding one until April :)

    2. Re:Sony NEX-7 by cbope · · Score: 1

      Wrong. The Pentax K-5 outscored the NEX-7, 82 vs. 81 points on DxOMark sensor testing. The K-5 hardly costs $10k... more like closer to $1k depending on sales and rebates. In fact, the K-5 sensor outperforms *every* APS-C DSLR camera currently available, and is bested only by *one* full-frame Nikon and a few medium format professional bodies (including the Pentax 645D). In particular, it's low-light performance and sensitivity is matched by only a few cameras, at any price.

      Interestingly, the Nikon D7000, which is reportedly using the same sensor as K-5, scores only 80 and has worse low-light sensor performance.

    3. Re:Sony NEX-7 by hedwards · · Score: 2

      The DxOMark is a complete joke and comparing sensors with that fine of a difference in score is a losing proposition. The only legitimate way of comparing sensors is with 100% crops and actual field testing of the system. Yes, it's going to be somewhat arbitrary, but if a professional with experience can't rank one better than the other then there's really no reason to worry about it.

      And at the end of the day, once you buy the first body you're mostly stuck with that system anyway. It gets to be quite expensive switching systems after that point typically.

    4. Re:Sony NEX-7 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Except either of these systems are very adapter-friendly, meaning if you shoot manual, you have access to thousands of cheap, high quality vintage lenses that you can use on either.

  19. 3rd gen cameras are the future by dphaeker · · Score: 1
    1. Re:3rd gen cameras are the future by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 2

      Note that not a single one of his example shots has a moving subject, hiding one of the major disadvantages of P&S and MILC cameras (fundamentally slow autofocus.)

      The best MILC's contrast detect AF might be able to match the weakest DSLR phase detect implementation - but if you have any intention on focusing on a moving subject (or even a fidgety impatient one), you want the autofocus performance of a DSLR, and phase detect systems will never be matched in terms of speed by CD systems.

      Yes, CD systems can have some nifty "tricks" not available to PD systems - but any modern DSLR can focus using both methods anyway. No MILC will ever have a phase detect system.

      --
      retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
    2. Re:3rd gen cameras are the future by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Note that not a single one of his example shots has a moving subject, hiding one of the major disadvantages of P&S and MILC cameras (fundamentally slow autofocus.)

      The best MILC's contrast detect AF might be able to match the weakest DSLR phase detect implementation - but if you have any intention on focusing on a moving subject (or even a fidgety impatient one), you want the autofocus performance of a DSLR, and phase detect systems will never be matched in terms of speed by CD systems.

      Load of BS; not telling all the truth; lying.

      Latest m43 camera would match similarly priced DSLR in AF performance nearly all the time. NEX and NX are noticeably slower and can't match DSLR. Why the Sony and Samsung haven't updated their AF performance in 2011 is beyond me.

      One gets the superior AF performance with tracking/etc out of mid- and pro-level DSLRs like Canon x0D/xD or Nikon D7xxx/D300s/Dx - which have all AF point of cross-type. And for that to even work one also need a suitable for fast AF lens. Do not even dream about AF subject tracking on the entry level Canons/Nikons, especially with some cheapo superzoom mounted.

    3. Re:3rd gen cameras are the future by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 1

      I've had no problems with subject tracking in a hockey game with a Pentax K20D (the K-5 has VASTLY improved AF but the K20D was more than good enough), even with a slow superzoom.

      Fundamentally, it is simply impossible for contrast detect autofocus to catch up to phase detect. Yeah the best CD systems might have caught up to the worst PD systems - but not being able to know whether you are already locked or not is a fundamental limitation of CD that can't be fixed. No matter what, the lens HAS to be moved to confirm focus.

      --
      retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
    4. Re:3rd gen cameras are the future by Andy+Dodd · · Score: 1

      Similarly - I have yet to see a picture of an aircraft in a high-speed pass at an airshow taken with a CDAF-based camera that was anything but a lucky shot.

      Even my old K10 could nail focus 90% of the time at airshows.

      --
      retrorocket.o not found, launch anyway?
  20. Don't skip the DSLR... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'd really recommend you go with an entry level DSLR. Maybe the Canon T3 or T3i. I have used the Canon Digital Rebel XT and right now I own the T2i - I've had great luck. Almost everyone uses either a Canon or a Nikon - so I recommend you stick with one of those. I use Canon, but Nikon is just as good. Just keep in mind that you can't switch lenses between the two, so once you go with one, you should stick with it. :)

  21. My experiences by rsborg · · Score: 4, Insightful

    "The best camera is the one you have with you" is a well known saying in photography. I have collected, and had the experience to work with, over the years, numerous cameras, lenses and videocams. Here are some of my learned truths:

    1) Form factor matters - if you don't have the camera, you won't use it. My best pictures are from my DSLR with a big bounce-flash+diffuser and a nifty-fifty [1] prime lens. For close-ups and portrait style, this camera is really hard to beat... however, I almost never have this camera (or it's bukly flash) with me. I've resorted to taking some pretty decent pictures with my wife's point-n-shoot , and surprisingly my iPhone.

    2) Video and Still pictures are two separate competencies. My best videos were with the aforementioned point and shoot, the next best with the iPhone. I almost never take video with the bulky DSLR, and when I do, the lack of auto-focus on video makes it difficult to do properly.

    3) I've never tried the EVIL/MILC, but they seem like a great idea... just terribly expensive.

    My recommendation would be to have several camera types (phone, P&S, DSLR) so that you can have availability and quality. the EVIL/MILC will never beat the bounce-flash equipped DSLR and prime lens (which would pale in comparison to a properly setup studio and multi-flash setup - but I can't afford that). In my world, the MILC would replace the point-and-shoot, and I'd still take the DSLR wherever I would normally take it (parties and events), but it'd be awesome to have almost-DSLR quality on my hikes. Recently I've been very impressed by my new iPhone4S so it might replace the P&S completely.

    --
    Make sure everyone's vote counts: Verified Voting
    1. Re:My experiences by bronney · · Score: 1

      My recommendation would be to have several camera types (phone, P&S, DSLR) so that you can have availability and quality

      In other words, GAS. Nice try buddy poisoning another newcomers :D

  22. Consider a high end pocketable by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I've had great experience with a high end pocketable cameras like the Canon G12 or S100, Fuji X10, or Nikon Coolpix P300. The picture quality is amazingly good and the portability means that it is always available. I've carry it on a pouch on my belt while hiking and mountain biking - something that it is hard to do with a DSLR or MILC. The convenience means that I can and do pull it out in an instant. I find myself taking more pictures and capturing more transient events than my colleagues with a DSLR. Plus modern incarnations of many of these high end pocketables can perform high end functions like bracketing to gain dynamic range, full manual control and RAW images.

    1. Re:Consider a high end pocketable by treeves · · Score: 1

      G12 is a good camera, but pocketable? Those are some big pockets.

      --
      ...the future crusty old bastards are already drinking the Kool-Aid.
    2. Re:Consider a high end pocketable by rjforster · · Score: 1

      I admit I have to empty everything else from that pocket to fit it in but I can get into gigs with a G12. Most gigs I go to are the kind that let me in with my DSLR though

    3. Re:Consider a high end pocketable by ulricr · · Score: 2

      Instead of a Canon G9,10,11,2, get a Canon S90 (like I have) or its replacement which I think is the Canon S100. It's the same camera, in a smaller package. truly portable. My S90 has a f2,0 lens! I've never used the flash even during the evening, and I've never missed a shot. It's fast and has two user-configurable wheels for manual or semi-automatic shooting.

  23. Don't sell yourself short ... by gstoddart · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I want a camera that's better than my phone, but I don't have the technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR.

    Look, if you can post a submission to Slashdot to ask this, you can use a modern DSLR.

    They've got so much automation built into them that the camera can be operated in one or two modes without a lot of deep knowledge of the fiddly bits. As you use it, you can opt to try some of the new features, but they've still got some pretty good automated modes.

    I occasionally do use some of the advanced features, but for the most part the auto modes cover my needs. But, if I want to delve into it, it's all there. You can run that as point and shoot cameras, or you can run them in full-on "stand back, I'm a professional" mode.

    If you really want to get better quality pictures, the lens quality of a DSLR gets you to an awfully good level as long as you're buying a good quality lens instead of some of the cheaper lenses that come with the kits. Those are sometimes a compromise which makes for something which is OK most of the time ... I did a little more reading and bought my camera body and lens separate, because the lens I bought was better quality and more versatile than the ones which came bundled.

    If you want to be able to change lenses, go with the DSLR and work up to it ... the lenses from the major companies will carry through their models for years. (I still use the old lenses from my film camera on my current Nikon DSLR.)

    If you buy something in between, it might not cover all of your needs, and in a few years you might need to replace it all over again.

    --
    Lost at C:>. Found at C.
    1. Re:Don't sell yourself short ... by liquidhokie · · Score: 1

      Sometimes, you don't want to "look" like a photographer. A high quality EVIL camera allows you to be a little more inconspicuous and still get away with great shots.

    2. Re:Don't sell yourself short ... by gstoddart · · Score: 0

      Sometimes, you don't want to "look" like a photographer. A high quality EVIL camera allows you to be a little more inconspicuous and still get away with great shots.

      Depends on what you need and what you're doing.

      Sometimes I'll just bring my point and shoot camera. Sometimes I'll bring my DSLR with the lens I bought it with and a case that just fits that. Sometimes I'll bring my DSLR in my full on carry bag that has all of my lenses in it.

      By the time I'm at option 3, I'm carrying 15+ pounds of camera gear, and it's quite obvious I'm there to take pictures ... but that's only for certain kinds of vacation where I want to cover all possible scenarios.

      My Nikon D80 with an 18-70mm lens isn't all that conspicuous -- and it covers the vast majority of scenarios I'm likely to be in. I'm sort of the de-facto photographer for my wife's family events since I'm the only one who brings (and remembers to use) my camera. :-P

      --
      Lost at C:>. Found at C.
  24. Did you read what you linked? by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

    We've had a chance to use all of these cameras extensively (and have reviewed most of them), so now seems like the ideal time to look at all the cameras and help you decide whether a Mirrorless camera is for you and, if so, which models you should consider.

    It's all right there, apparently. I didn't look around, and I don't really know what these mirrorless cameras are (point and shoot cameras that can take lenses? cool), but I'd recommend looking there.

    That said, I've always been highly satisfied with the color and image reproduction quality on Canon products. I won't buy another type of camera (whether still or motion). I think it's superior to the others ( eg. Sony). It's a matter of preference, though.

    --
    ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
  25. Why interchangeable lenses? by djlemma · · Score: 1

    I am curious what advantages you imagine you'll get from having interchangeable lenses. For macro purposes, a lot of little point&shoot cameras do great with close focus because their sensors are so small. Likewise, smaller sensors allow for long telephoto lenses to still be very compact. If you were saying you wanted better wide angle capability (for architecture and whatnot) or you wanted to be able to shallow depth-of-field stuff (portraiture and artsy stuff) then I'd think maybe an interchangeable lens camera would be best..

    I'm not suggesting you get a crappy point&shoot, just that if you're traveling a lot then you'll want something small and durable.. I lug my DSLR all over because I've already made the investment, but it's killer on my back.

    1. Re:Why interchangeable lenses? by grcumb · · Score: 1

      I am curious what advantages you imagine you'll get from having interchangeable lenses.

      In my experience, it's all about the glass. You can get decent photos with a moderately good camera body, but if you have a shit lens, nothing's going to save you from a muddy pic.

      This is why I'm inclined to suggest a DSLR. As others have said, entry-level camera bodies are pretty cheap these days, and they do most of the heavy lifting where shutter and aperture are concerned. But with a good prime lens (i.e. fixed-length, non-zoom), you can get remarkable clarity, right down to the pores on someone's face. You can get one for a fraction of the price of a comparable-quality zoom lens.

      The only drawback is that you have to use your legs when composing a shot, but as long as you look behind you, that's generally not a problem.

      That said, make sure you like photography before you jump in.

      --
      Crumb's Corollary: Never bring a knife to a bun fight.
    2. Re:Why interchangeable lenses? by tverbeek · · Score: 1

      Google "digital bridge camera". These are cameras that fill the gap between crappy point-and-shoot cameras and expensive DSLRs. Instead of using interchangeable lenses they include good optical zoom lenses, with ratios from 10x to 30x.

      --
      http://alternatives.rzero.com/
    3. Re:Why interchangeable lenses? by djlemma · · Score: 1

      For myself, I like having the toys and experimenting with them... so if I were going to spend $300 on something, I'll chose a fisheye lens or some other toy before I look at getting a camera that doesn't offer me any new abilities other than being small. Although, that said, I'm curious about getting a camera that I can take under water. :)

    4. Re:Why interchangeable lenses? by djlemma · · Score: 1

      You can get a Sony Cybershot with Zeiss glass, and I'm sure you can take some very sharp photos. Again, for me I don't think I can be without a DSLR, but the original poster sounded like somebody that wanted to try the latest concept in digital cameras even if it wasn't necessarily the best option for his application..

    5. Re:Why interchangeable lenses? by qqaz · · Score: 1

      Bridge cameras give you all of the drawbacks of a DSLR with none of the benefits. Their sensors are as small as a pocket P&S. Their lenses are soft, full of CA, they distort like crazy, and are so slow that the extended zoom range is almost useless unless you only shoot at high noon. There's literally no reason anybody should ever buy one.

      --
      sup :cool:
    6. Re:Why interchangeable lenses? by arose · · Score: 1

      Do you currently have the capability to shoot 30x zoom without support?

      --
      Analogies don't equal equalities, they are merely somewhat analogous.
    7. Re:Why interchangeable lenses? by tverbeek · · Score: 1

      There's literally no reason anybody should ever buy one.

      And yet, I have taken thousands of wonderful pictures with them.

      "All of the drawbacks of DSLR?" Like price and bulk?

      "None of the benefits?" Like optical wide-angle/telephoto capability, manual exposure control, sometimes even manual focus?

      I'm not saying they're perfect; like any other camera, they offer a set of compromises. The results have been very good at meeting my wants and needs. If you can't grasp that some people don't mind a little distortion for the convenience of not having to change lenses, or are happy with lesser image quality if it gives them a more portable and less expensive camera, then there's literally no reason why anybody should ever listen to your advice. Probably about anything.

      --
      http://alternatives.rzero.com/
  26. Get a digital rangefinder by bigtrike · · Score: 1

    Such as the Leica M9. Or if you can't afford that, just learn how to use a DSLR in auto mode. It's really hard (for me at least) to take a good picture without an optical viewfinder.

    1. Re:Get a digital rangefinder by endus · · Score: 1

      The Leica is an overpriced piece of shit. Sorry Leica fans, but their pricing is way out of line for what you get. Fuji X100 is almost a better camera...the new one they're releasing will be a better camera. Yes, the glass...I know. But you're paying an exorbitant amount of money for an under performing body in order to mount very expensive but also VERY good glass. I think when the Fuji is released Leica may have to reconsider a bit.

  27. Why a MILC? Get a compact. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    For non-technical use, why not just get a compact? I have a Canon Powershot SX230HS. Pocketable 12MP with x14 zoom (28-392mm equiv), image stabilised, geo tagging etc. Alot of manual options if you want to get creative, but also full auto available as well. Great for travelling.

    I also have a DSLR, but for travelling, a good compact is much more convenient.

    With a MILC, you can have better optics (a compact will have to compromise on the optics), but it will also be far bulkier.

  28. DSLR vs MILC by CraigoFL · · Score: 2

    but I don't have the technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR

    Don't let your own knowledge & skill level be your reason to choose a MILC over a DSLR. The two kinds of camera are very similar in terms of their capabilities.

    The major difference in the two is the way you view your scene prior to taking a picture. The "single lens reflex" in "SLR" means that you get an optical view of your scene through the lens you're using. As a result, what you see is extremely detailed (ie: almost as good as your eyes themselves). This is great for manual focusing. It doesn't suck any battery either.

    The "M" in "MILC" (typically) means that you don't get this optical viewpath for composing your shots. Instead, you see your scene on an electronic LCD. This can be easier to view in some situations, but is far less detailed (ie: limited by the resolution of your LCD), so manual focusing is harder. Also, you need to drain your battery in order to see anything.

    However, without the physical mirror & prism for the optical viewfinder a MILC can be much smaller and lighter than a corresponding DSLR. Typically, they also use smaller sensors, which in turn require smaller lenses. This further reduces size & weight, at the expense of image quality and optical performance.

    That tradeoff is a fair one to consider. Let that be your decision factor, not your own knowledge. The techniques you use with each kind of camera will still be mostly the same.

    1. Re:DSLR vs MILC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The major difference in the two is the way you view your scene prior to taking a picture. The "single lens reflex" in "SLR" means that you get an optical view of your scene through the lens you're using. As a result, what you see is extremely detailed (ie: almost as good as your eyes themselves). This is great for manual focusing. It doesn't suck any battery either.

      Dude, go to a pawnshop and buy a 60's film camera for 20 bucks. Look thru the gigantic, bright viewfinder with focusing aids, and tell me again how good the optical viewfinder is on today's consumer level DSLRs.

    2. Re:DSLR vs MILC by Dynedain · · Score: 1

      It should be noted that many modern dSLRs will give you the large LCD-screen preview as well, since so many people buy dSLRs but want point-and-click features.

      --
      I'm out of my mind right now, but feel free to leave a message.....
    3. Re:DSLR vs MILC by grcumb · · Score: 1

      It should be noted that many modern dSLRs will give you the large LCD-screen preview as well, since so many people buy dSLRs but want point-and-click features.

      If you want clear photographs, one of the worst things you could do is hold the camera at arm's length. Use the view finder, tuck your elbows in and you'll see an immediate improvement in shot quality.

      --
      Crumb's Corollary: Never bring a knife to a bun fight.
    4. Re:DSLR vs MILC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The Olympus PEN my wife has does a nice thing when focusing manually. The LCD zooms to maximum resolution at the center of the frame. That way you can make sure you are focused well. I find this more useful than my DSLR when using anything with more zoom than the kit lens. But my eyes suck, so that may have something to do with it.

    5. Re:DSLR vs MILC by brantondaveperson · · Score: 1

      My dSLR (A Canon 50D) does exactly the same thing. But it has autofocus that can track a moving subject, allowing me to get shots that would be impossible with any mirror less camera.

  29. Don't even have to... by Goonie · · Score: 1
    DSLRs have "point-and-click" modes that are as easy to use as a compact. The only possible reason I can see to buy something other than a DSLR camera if you're even moderately serious about photography is the size and weight of the camera (+ lenses).

    For idiot-proof travel, a DSLR + a Sigma or Tamron "superzoom" will get you excellent pictures, and when you get home you can fit more specialized lenses for whatever it is you want to do.

    --

    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from a rigged demo
    --Andy Finkel (J. Klass?)
    1. Re:Don't even have to... by hedwards · · Score: 1

      dSLRs aren't really appropriate for travel, which is precisely why I bought myself a Canon Powershot sx40 HS a while back. I personally love my dSLR and wouldn't trade it for anything, but lugging around 30lbs., worth of gear to make the most of it isn't particularly viable for travel. Well, unless your whole point is going for photography.

      The camera has an impressive zoom range and gives usable results in all but the darkest conditions. I've had the ISO up to 3200 and it still produces shots that are worth having, albeit with some degredation.

      My main complaint with it is that the focus is a bit slow and it's a bit hard to use the manual settings for more than one thing at a time.

    2. Re:Don't even have to... by cayenne8 · · Score: 3, Funny

      dSLRs aren't really appropriate for travel, which is precisely why I bought myself a Canon Powershot sx40 HS a while back. I personally love my dSLR and wouldn't trade it for anything, but lugging around 30lbs., worth of gear to make the most of it isn't particularly viable for travel. Well, unless your whole point is going for photography.

      You know...I don't know where this complaint comes from.

      It wasn't THAT long ago..when pretty much all we had were 33mm film cameras, and no one bitched about carrying a SLR camera and a lens (or maybe two).

      Growing up, that's ALL we had.....hell as a kid, I always was asking my Dad to be the one to carry the family camera...finally one year when I was like 19 or so, on a cruise they got me my own..a Nikon FA blackbody..I was thrilled.

      That thing lasted through college and a LOT of drunken parties. Those party shots are still with us today.....(hoping someone in there runs for senator so I can remind him of the photos, and get a cushy govt job).

      :)

      --
      Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
    3. Re:Don't even have to... by hedwards · · Score: 1

      Yes, but back then the alternatives weren't so capable.

      Yes, I do get better images with a dSLR than I do with my new camera, but the difference isn't anywhere near large enough to justify dragging around that much equipment on a vacation. Unless my whole point in going is to take photos, and even then it gets hard to justify at times as you're having to make decisions based upon where you're willing to lug the gear to.

      Beyond that, back then the discussion definitely happened, it's just that rather than arguing between a 35mm and a P&S, you were probably arguing between a large or medium format camera and a 35mm camera. Had P&S cameras been as functional then as they are now, it probably would have been an even larger argument.

      The OP was asking specifically about a camera for travel that's not too technical and given the results that can be had with a quality P&S, it seems rather hard to suggest much more than that at this point in time. Give some time to learn composition and develop a love of photography before wasting a lot of money on lenses and bodies. My current camera cost almost exactly what my first lens cost nearly a decade ago.

    4. Re:Don't even have to... by Cederic · · Score: 1

      It wasn't THAT long ago..when pretty much all we had were 33mm film cameras, and no one bitched about carrying a SLR camera and a lens (or maybe two).

      Nobody bitched, because nobody carried them. To be fair, that's partly because nobody could afford to take 300 photos in a weekend - film & processing costs were too high. These days 300 photos costs an hour in Lightroom tagging the 290 that you want to delete again.

      Check flickr, facebook, twitpics.. how many of those photographs were taken with SLRs (digital or film)?

      Those photos will also be around forever, and there are rather more of them..

    5. Re:Don't even have to... by H0p313ss · · Score: 1

      It wasn't THAT long ago..when pretty much all we had were 33mm film cameras, and no one bitched about carrying a SLR camera and a lens (or maybe two).

      Nobody bitched, because nobody carried them.

      Mine went round the world with me before I was 20, kids these days...

      --
      XML is a known as a key material required to create SMD: Software of Mass Destruction
    6. Re:Don't even have to... by muridae · · Score: 1

      You didn't travel with my family, then. Dad invested in a Minolta X-700 when they first came out, and there are multiple shoe-boxes full of negatives. Not prints, those got put in a closet full of photo albums. When VHS/Beta war was settled, he got a VHS camcorder, and then there was video and stills of everything that happened. When I got access to a darkroom in high school, I put 5 to 10 rolls through that X-700 on any major trip, and schlepped the camera bag and tripod everywhere we went. Developing and making contact prints, then tagging only the ones to enlarge only took an hour, if the class was lucky enough to have a lunch break in the middle to let the negative dry.

      Sure, by the 80s and 90s most people were using point and shoot 35mm cameras. And they may take 2 rolls of pictures and get them all developed. But those are the same people with P&S or cell phone digitals, posting every photo to flickr/facebook/twit/tumblr/wordpress/blogger. They were never the same types of people.

    7. Re:Don't even have to... by Bob+the+Super+Hamste · · Score: 1

      Totaly agree with learning how to take photos before going hog wild on equipment. I actually exclusively use my old 35mm SLR and love it and have a lot of equipment for it. I have gotten pretty good at taking photos but realize I am no where near what would be considered professional. The only problem I have is that M42 screw mount lenses I currently want are difficult to find. I have the common sizes of 17mm, 28mm, 55mm, 135mm, 200mm, 80-210mm but I don't really like this lens as it isn't as clear as the others, and 300mm. I got the camera for free and have purchased good lenses off of ebay and from the pawn shop for $40 or less but that was several years ago when Pentax screw mount cameras were old and no one wanted them but not old enough to be collectable. Add in some UV, ND, and polarizing filters, a good tripod, flash, and shutter release cable and I have a decent setup. The problem I face is if I wanted to replace what I have I have to make the jump to a higher end dSLR or medium format and still get all new lenses.

      --
      Time to offend someone
    8. Re:Don't even have to... by jafac · · Score: 1

      If one is really serious; one would carry TWO cameras, so that you wouldn't be swapping telephoto and wide-angle lenses constantly. :P

      --

      These are my friends, See how they glisten. See this one shine, how he smiles in the light.
    9. Re:Don't even have to... by neurovish · · Score: 1

      Nobody bitched, because nobody carried them. To be fair, that's partly because nobody could afford to take 300 photos in a weekend - film & processing costs were too high. These days 300 photos costs an hour in Lightroom tagging the 290 that you want to delete again.

      Check flickr, facebook, twitpics.. how many of those photographs were taken with SLRs (digital or film)?

      Those photos will also be around forever, and there are rather more of them..

      Of the top 5 cameras on flickr, 4 of them are DSLRs, and the top "camera" is the iPhone.

    10. Re:Don't even have to... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Old style film SLR's were lighter than today's Canon EOS, and sturdier i imagine. They could probably survive a drop much better. And they usually had a good thin leather case worn by years of use into a very quick to launch bit of kit. I never had more than the one lens that was on it, and some spare film rolls in my pocket.

      But today i have a Canon G12 & its more than enough for someone who's not going to bother to learn to use a DSLR properly. I mean why even get a mirrorless if you aren't a full camera geek? Its twice the price and pointless if you don't know how to use it well. The G series Canon or any other decent Canon will do everything you will need, even after you decide to learn how to use it, cos you can use it manual or auto or any point in between.

  30. NEX7 by liquidhokie · · Score: 3, Informative

    If you can find one, get the NEX7, and pick a E mount lens that best suits your needs. Then, get an L to E adapter, and you can use 100's of Leicia L mount lenses. Most will only work in manual focus mode, but the peaking display makes focusing easy and accurate.

    I just got an Alpha77, which is probably not what you are looking for. I love it, though, and the NEX7 shares a lot of the same technology and features.

  31. Sorry, but really by TheSkepticalOptimist · · Score: 1

    You have to ask slashdot for what camera to buy? There are about a hundred thousand better websites geared towards photography you can google instead of listening to a bunch of .\ blowhards grouping themselves into fanboys for one side or the other.

    --
    I haven't thought of anything clever to put here, but then again most of you haven't either.
    1. Re:Sorry, but really by elsurexiste · · Score: 1

      To be honest, I was intrigued on how would the slash-crowd answer to this. All in all, there are a lot of geeks that enjoy photography and provide nice and helpful advice, even posting prices and pros/cons. Just pick at random, chances are it could be modded informative. There are a few aggressive or sarcastic comments, but they don't seem to have a clue.

      A nice "Ask /.", if you ask me...

      --
      I rarely respond to comments. Also, don't ask for clarifications: a brain and Google are faster, believe me!
  32. Nikon 1 series is your answer by mozumder · · Score: 0

    The system was designed from the ground up for people like you.

    I tried it the other day at the store - it's as small as a compact, it was really easy to control, picture quality was perfectly fine, focus speed is as fast as a DSLR.

    The big selling feature of it is that it's the first camera to use an SLR-style phase-detect autofocus (look it up) outside of a DSLR, so you can capture action shots, something you can't do with compact cameras and can only do with DSLRs. It just makes responsiveness of the camera so much better, almost like a pro camera, so you don't end up missing shots, or have to tell everyone to stay still all the time.

    BTW I shoot fashion & runway shows, including the big New York Fashion Week.

  33. Lenses for MILC by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    This is a very misleading comment.

    The MILC cameras are small enough that it is possible to mount a wide variety of lenses on them, including the full range and history of Leica lenses. Leica lenses are amongst the finest lenses around and are currently hard to find in stores because they're selling them as fast as they can make them.

    1. Re:Lenses for MILC by Hognoxious · · Score: 1

      But once you add those lenses - and a bag to carry them in - you're well beyond the size that'll fit in a shirt/jacket pocket anyway. At that point, you might as well use an SLR.

      Disclaimer:
          Used to own a Contax G1 with 28 & 90 lenses. Would still if it hadn't got stolen. Served partly as a backup to (and exposure meter for) my 4x5 view camera, in relation to which it's tiny.

      --
      Confucius say, "Find worm in apple - bad. Find half a worm - worse."
  34. MIL cameras aren't any easier than DSLRs.... by sammy+baby · · Score: 0

    To reiterate what a few other people have already said: a MILS style camera isn't really any easier to use than a DSLR. However, they do tend to be smaller, which can be a big plus when traveling. My main camera is a Canon 5D (first generation), which is a huge brick of a thing. I'm sure I've missed out on getting some great shots because I couldn't be arsed to bring it with me sometimes.

    The article you linked to on DPreview is already a better overview than most people on /. are going to be able to provide - just skip to the section on beginner's cameras and pick the one that calls out to you.

    But don't do it because DSLRs are big and scary. Every camera you ever have will have the following controls: aperture, shutter speed, ISO. That's 99% of what you need. Go grab a copy of "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and the rest will fall into place. (Unless you intend to use external lighting, in which case you've got plenty of time to learn that too.)

    1. Re:MIL cameras aren't any easier than DSLRs.... by syousef · · Score: 1

      Go grab a copy of "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and the rest will fall into place. (Unless you intend to use external lighting, in which case you've got plenty of time to learn that too.)

      That long winded over-rated piece of crap has probably put more people off photography than most, but it seems to have a cult following.

      There is a LOT more to photography than those 3 variables you mention, but they are a good start. However don't over-simplify by saying that's all there is to it. For instance focal length matters on a lot of levels (it affects scene compression and depth of field for a start), exposure modes, continuous vs single shot, automatic exposure compensation like auto ISO, and there is a WHOLE WORLD of new stuff to learn when you embark on properly using the flash, because now you are

      --
      These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
  35. Mirrorless/3rd Gen cameras are the way to go by the_B0fh · · Score: 0
    1. Re:Mirrorless/3rd Gen cameras are the way to go by BryGy · · Score: 1

      read this:

      https://plus.google.com/105237212888595777019/posts/fbCZzoFEAz1

      I was going to link to the exact same piece by Trey. It change the way I will be thinking about my next camera purchase in this year.

      --
      Smile, it makes people wonder what you're up to!
  36. DSLR is where it's at. by MrWin2kMan · · Score: 1

    I echo many of the other statements posted. I had an Olmpus SP-350 for a long time, great little camera, but last year I got a Canon T2i, which is fantastic; 18Mp and high-def 1080p video to boot. It does way more than I know how to do yet, but the flexibility that it provides, allowing you to 'grow into it' is without equal. You can get its little brother, the T3i fairly reasonable, or one of the other EOS DSLRs. Check your Best Buy or Fry's ads, after going to Canon USA, of course.

    --
    Nothing to see here but us trolls...move along...
  37. wrong criteria by backdoc · · Score: 1

    I think ease of use is the wrong criteria. You choose a mirrorless camera for it's size, flexible lens (you can use a Panasonic lens on an Olympus body) options and live preview, not for ease of use. I have owned both. I liked the Panasonic GH2. The movie mode is second to none.

    For a mu43 lens, I don't have any personal experience with it, but I read great things about the Panasonic 20mm f1.4. It should be pretty good in low light. You do need to determine what you think you'll be shooting before you pick a lens.

    In the end, I ended up with a D7000. It's good for indoor (low light) sports, which was my primary need. But, if I didn't have that specific need, I'd just get the Fuji x100. Ken Rockwell raves about it.

  38. Educate yourself! by jtownatpunk.net · · Score: 0

    ...but I don't have the technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR...

    What the heck? Read a book. It'll take all of a couple hours to learn the basics of how cameras work. There are three core variables. If that's too much trouble, stick with a fully automated point-n-shoot.

  39. sony nex5n by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Have the sony 5n. Great camera, ok len selection. Advantage of larger aps-c sensor without the bulk of mirror & viewfinder. If you need better lens selectiontry micro 4/3, but for me the 5n is on par with better dslr's for image quality.

  40. Consider the size and wait till next week (CES) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    The reason you get a MILC over a DSLR is "size", not because you "don't have the tech knowledge".

    Having said that, the recent crop of "prosumer" point and shoots is excellent. Including the LX-5, Olympus XZ-1, and Canon S100. Consider all those and check out the reviews from dpreview.com. They also have some great reviews of the MILC.

    Also CES is next week, and Canon is coming out with the new G1X (a replacement for the G12) and there should be a lot of other announcements, so whatever you do, wait a week.

  41. Get the DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'm also a camera idiot. I bought a Nikon D40 back when it was their most popular low end DSLR camera on the market. I keep it in auto mode all the time with the rare exception of telling it I want it to explicitly flash/not flash. The only thing to concern yourself with is where the mechanism is for the autofocus. In the D40 it's in the lens, which means additional lenses are expensive because they have motors inside them. This isn't a problem for me as I only use the lens that came with it. More expensive cameras have the autofocus mechanism in the camera, so the lenses are cheaper. You can use the cheaper lenses on ones like the D40 but you have to manually focus. Since I'm a camera idiot that's a non-starter for me. Anyways, the picture quality out of this very very low end of DSLR cameras is so much better than any camera I've had before it that I would definitely recommend getting a similarly low end DSLR if you're on the fence. Even an ignorant person like me can take some pretty amazing pictures with that thing. And no.. I have no affiliation with Nikon whatsoever.

  42. Sony Has some P/S For Newbs by Life2Death · · Score: 0

    I fully reccomend the HX9V at less than $300 new for under-experienced.

    You lose the interchangeable lenses and the fruity other stuff, but it fits in your pants pocket and helps you learn to frame and shoot awesome pictures and not try to compensate with a camera to do it all.

  43. I Went with a GX1 by Hjalmar · · Score: 2

    I spent a lot of time looking into this, and went with the new Lumix GX1. For several years I've had a small point and shoot, and found that I simply didn't want the bulk of an SLR. Smaller camera bodies and smaller lenses was the big selling point, especially now that the Micro Four Thirds cameras generally have the same picture quality as entry-level SLRs. For me it came down to the Lumix G3 and the GX1; I decided I didn't need a viewfinder and tilt-and-swivel screen, and so went with the GX1. I used to be a big SLR fan when I took pictures with film, but I find now that I have to wear glasses having a viewfinder is a nuisance.

  44. Even a GOOD telephoto lense... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Also, my sister is going to China in a few months, so a telephoto lens would probably be good...

    I was going to say that even a good telephoto lens won't help you see your sister if she's in China until I read:

    ...for sight seeing (since I could employ optical zoom instead of the imaginary 'digital zoom').

    Even still, a telephoto lens is a lot less useful than you'd think, in my opinion. Artistic closeups of far-away objects are nice, but for wide vistas a standard or wide angle lens might be more useful. Telephoto lenses tend to be bulky and they're very frustrating when you suddenly want to take a picture of something close to you. A lot of photographers seem to carry multiple cameras these days instead of switching lenses all the time to alleviate this problem, but again, if you're traveling this is cumbersome and expensive.

  45. Get an Ultrazoom, e.g. Sony DSC-HX1. by Renevith · · Score: 1

    There is a class of high-end non-SLR cameras called "ultrazoom." They don't have removable lenses, but the built-in lens is versatile (with long optical zoom as well as macro capability) and they are smaller and lighter than SLRs or probably MILCs. It's a good compromise if you don't think you'll appreciate the SLR or if you're on a budget.

    I've has a Sony DSC-HX1 for a few years and have been very happy with it. Looks like you can get one new for $350 on Amazon. It has a 20x optical zoom, gyroscopic stabilization so you can actually take reasonable pictures at those zoom levels without a tripod, and of course a host of software features including a pretty smart "intelligent auto" mode. The quality of photos is excellent: I've framed some 18"x12" prints as gifts, and people have been surprised when I tell them I took the photo myself.

    Review sites often have a separate category for these ultrazooms, e.g.: http://www.digitalcamerainfo.com/Extended-Zoom.htm. Good luck in your search.

  46. I agree - form factor matters by jpc1957 · · Score: 1

    Decide first on the form factor. For me that is 2 decisions. Does it fit in a pocket or not. Does it have a view finder or not. I've used a Canon S90 for years, that's my pocket size camera I always have, either in a pocket or backpack. A really great camera and if you are a geek, it has the huge benefit of CHDK for hacking the software. Not many other cameras offer that. I often wish I had another camera with me for a longer lens, but at least I always have something. When I'm planning on taking photos I'll take either a Sony Nex 5 or Sony A33. Either camera requires that I carry a bag just for the camera and minimal lens set. I had the Nex first, and loved the ability to put any old lens on it (I use old Minolta lenses from eBay), but the lack of a view finder is a killer for me. Can't see at all in sunlight. Got the A33 just because of that, but ended up carrying it less because of the extra bulk. If it wasn't for the floods in Thailand, I'd have a Nex 7 now. That camera will replace both the Nex 5 and A33 for me since it has a viewfinder. But I'll still have the S90 around for a long time. And i also rely on my iPhone a lot. It actually takes the best photos in many cases because of the HDR, and the photos/videos can be uploaded instantly to the internet.

  47. Don't drive a hybrid either? by Warwick+Allison · · Score: 1

    This is a nonsense question. The car analogy is like saying you don't have the technical knowledge to drive a hybrid. There is no special knowledge required to use a DSLR... other than perhaps being careful when changing the lense (which mirrorless share).

    Even the last (non digital) SLR generations had full auto modes and a full suite of scene modes, just like a compact.

  48. Seconded. Re: Entry level DSLR by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I got a Canon G10 (what 2 years ago now?) and it's been a great entry into DSLR. I can take full control when I want it, or I can just play point-n-shoot. And it's not ridiculously expensive. Of course, do the reviews and find out what gives you a better upgrade path for your lenses. What I've heard is that the nikon entry dslr is more compatible so any lenses you buy will work with a new body if you upgrade down the road.

    Can any Canon or Nikon pros or reps add on to my thoughts above?

  49. Compact Camera by mk1004 · · Score: 1

    OK, you don't understand DSLR and want optical zoom capability. Since you mention travel, I'm not sure why it's just DSLR vs. MILC. Yes, DSLR can get you some great lens, and yes, MILC could leave you with a bag full of proprietary lenses that can't be used when you upgrade. But traveling with bulky DSLR/lenses, or even a MILC w/lenses can be a real pain. Why not get a good compact camera? There are some really good ones out there, the Canon S95 being one that has a better than average sensor, low light capability, etcetera. For the record, in the Canon/Nikon holy wars, I lean toward the Canon camp, but I don't own the S95. I mention the S95 because it's a great example of why it's not all about how many megapixels you can cram into a sensor. I'm sure most of the major players out there have similar high-end compacts. For travel, you'll be more likely to get some memorable shots if you don't have to lug around a big heavy bag with camera and lenses, pick and switch lenses, and so on.

    --
    I can mend the break of day, heal a broken heart, and provide temporary relief to nymphomaniacs.
  50. Ergonomics by johanwanderer · · Score: 3, Informative

    The biggest issue I have with the mirror less / micro four-third camera families is with ergonomics. These cameras are:

    1. Too big to put in your pocket/purse/etc. so you don't carry them around as much as a point-n-shoot or a cell phone.

    2. Too small to hold for a good posture to take pictures (one hand under the lens) yet the weight dictates some sort of two-hands operation.

    3. Additionally, the "advanced" controls are buried deep under layers of menus, make them less usable than some of the more advanced point-n-shoot (like the Canon S100)

    4. Lenses are not interchangeable with SLRs, so there is no upgrade path for those investments.

    I would recommend you look at an entry-level DSLR (since the price points are close). Started out with the "green square" (automatic) modes, then learn to shoot in "P" (programmed) mode, adjusting ISO and compensations. Then move on to Av / Tv / M modes.

    What you learn using a DLSR will be applicable to all cameras, and your investments in lenses won't be wasted.

    Don't get me wrong, I think the mirror-less stuff is great, but the current crop of cameras leave too much out.

  51. Here are the only two metrics you should look at by jmcbain · · Score: 1

    I'm an experienced photographer. To simplify your search, there are only two features/metrics that you should look for: (1) the option for the camera to shoot both JPEG and RAW (a manufacturer-proprietary format that captures more data for important pictures, which you can then subsequently convert to JPEG); and (2) sensor pixel density.

    For (1), Dpreview.com recently published a nice roundup of RAW-shooting compact cameras. You can't go wrong with any camera in that group even if you never use the RAW feature.

    For (2), look for cameras with a sensor size at least as large as APS-C; a larger sensor will capture more light, and for a given number of pixels, a larger sensor will produce less noise than a smaller sensor. APS-C signifies a sensor size around 23mm x 15mm. (A full-frame sensor is 36mm x 24mm, which is found in high-end DSLRs.) An APS-C sensor can fortunately now be found in several small cameras that have come out in the last year or so, but they are still relatively rare and relatively expensive. Such APS-C compact cameras include: Sony Nex-3, Nex-5, and Nex-7; Fuji X100; Samsung NX100 and NX200; and Leica X1. The Micro-4/3 MILC cameras typically have a sensor size around 17mm x 13mm. Note that the compact cameras listed in (1) above have even smaller sensors around 8mm x 6mm.

  52. the mirror is outdated - QED by hierophanta · · Score: 1

    the mirror is outdated - QED. that technology is simply extra parts when you think about how a digital camera works. there really is zero reason to have a mirror in the camera, all it does is make the device bigger and heavier. look into the micro 4/3rds line of camera, i love the G1 that i have. camera + 3 lenses comes to ~$1200 total, giving me everything from 16mm to 400mm. and it doesnt hurt my back when im walking around with the kit

  53. I prefer to go hi-tech by Squidlips · · Score: 1

    with a pinhole camera

  54. Why have a mirror? by mspohr · · Score: 1

    It seems the movable mirror in the SLR design is an anachronistic piece of baggage left over from the days of film cameras. The mirror and pentaprism were necessary to get true "through the lens" viewing to accommodate different lenses, etc. The mirror introduces a lot of complexity, weight, and problems such as lag, mirror shake and problems doing video.
    I am surprised the the mirror persists in the digital camera age. In reading the comments, it seems that the DSLR cameras have nicer sensors, features, lenses, etc. but there is no reason these could not be fitted to the mirrorless designs.
    Is there any good reason to still have a mirror?

    --
    I don't read your sig. Why are you reading mine?
    1. Re:Why have a mirror? by endus · · Score: 1

      It seems the movable mirror in the SLR design is an anachronistic piece of baggage left over from the days of film cameras. The mirror and pentaprism were necessary to get true "through the lens" viewing to accommodate different lenses, etc. The mirror introduces a lot of complexity, weight, and problems such as lag, mirror shake and problems doing video.
      I am surprised the the mirror persists in the digital camera age. In reading the comments, it seems that the DSLR cameras have nicer sensors, features, lenses, etc. but there is no reason these could not be fitted to the mirrorless designs.
      Is there any good reason to still have a mirror?

      Night shooting? Action? Fashion? Precise composition?

      I will be buying the new Fuji interchangeable lens camera when it comes out too...but if you think a mirror is outdated for all applications, it's because your definition of "photography" is severely limited.

    2. Re:Why have a mirror? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Is there any good reason to still have a mirror?

      Yes.

      1. Battery life. I can look through the SLR viewfinder all day long and use zero battery. LCD continuously drains battery when on.
      2. The image through the SLR viewfinder is more detailed than the LCD, which aids in focusing especially in low light.
      3. I can take a picture in near darkness (moonlight or candle) with my Canon 5D and a FAST (f1.2 or f1.4) lens, without flash and without a little LCD lighting me up. Not just useful for stealthy photography, but sometimes the light from your LCD will ruin a shot, startle the animal, etc.
      4. Lag. There's no lag to what I see through the viewfinder, but the LCD must lag at least 1/60th second best case.

      That being said, my pro DSLRs and lenses are HEAVY and EXPENSIVE so I rarely travel with them unless I'm going somwhere where I absolutely want perfect pictures. And that means a tripod too.

    3. Re:Why have a mirror? by mspohr · · Score: 1

      I don't see how a mirror helps with night shooting, action, fashion or precise composition.
      It seems that these can all be done with a properly set up display.
      Night shooting - sensors can show things brighter than a mirror
      Action - a display can keep up as well as a mirror viewfinder (plus you don't have the delay for the mirror moving out of the way)
      Fashion - I presume you are talking about precise focus... again, no reason a display can't show this.
      Precise composition - The display can be as precise as a viewfinder.

      What does a mirror do better than a display?

      --
      I don't read your sig. Why are you reading mine?
    4. Re:Why have a mirror? by ulricr · · Score: 1

      heu.. you can see the exact final pictures from the digital sensor in real-time, there is no need for a miror to reflect it back somewhere else.

    5. Re:Why have a mirror? by endus · · Score: 1

      Night shooting - sensors can show things brighter than a mirror

      No they can't. I'm talking about pitch black here. > 30s exposure. I have a 5dMKII...I know what I am talking about.

      Action - a display can keep up as well as a mirror viewfinder (plus you don't have the delay for the mirror moving out of the way)

      Again, no they can't. There is lag. As far as the mirror moving out of the way...try it with a 5dmkii and see how the results are.

      Fashion - I presume you are talking about precise focus... again, no reason a display can't show this.

      Actually, no. Live view is much better for precise focus...thats the time I use it the most on my camera.

      Precise composition - The display can be as precise as a viewfinder.

      LOL. You need to get a camera that has both. It won't take you long to see the difference.

    6. Re:Why have a mirror? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      No one seems to make a mirrorless camera that has focus performance suitable for action or sports. The EVF viewfinders are now very good, but still exhibit problems with bright environments, rapidly changing light levels, rainbow/tearing etc.

      As soon as the EVF viewfinders get a little better and someone works out fast phase detect focus on the sensor itself, the mirror should die out.

    7. Re:Why have a mirror? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      heu.. you can see the exact final pictures from the digital sensor in real-time, there is no need for a miror to reflect it back somewhere else.

      Congratulations, your night vision is completely shot. Enjoy tripping over things.

      Also, the animals you were trying to photograph ran away because the reflected light makes you really damn obvious.

    8. Re:Why have a mirror? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The display is low resolution compared with the image that is captured. However the optical viewfinder doesn't have a "native resolution". It shows you your image at whatever level of detail your eye can perceive.

      The result is that it's much harder to know if your photo is in focus with the screen than with an optical viewfinder. If you don't trust your auto-focus or can't use auto focus because of the composition of your shot this can be a problem.

      In theory a sufficiently high resolution screen would solve this, but as yet there aren't any cameras on the market with such a screen.

  55. Wait for the Fuji!! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It will be the best mirrorless camera evarr. X100 is cool but non-interchangeable lenses suck. Fuji interchangeable lens version should drop at CES in a couple days. Anyone who tells you differently doesn't know anything about cameras. Seriously.

  56. not at the rate they're going. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    They aren't going to win as long as they keep changing to non-compatible standards, Four Thirds System vs Micro Four Thirds System.

    Give another couple of years and they'll update the standard again so people will have to buy all new lenses when they update or replace their cameras.

    1. Re:not at the rate they're going. by Goaway · · Score: 1

      Four Thirds and Micro Four Thirds are fundamentally different. It's not an upgrade for upgrade's sake, they could simply not build the kind of cameras they build now if they kept using Four Thirds.

  57. Size difference? by Alkonaut · · Score: 1
    To me the big step in camera sizes is "pocketable" and "not pocketable". All interchangeable lens cameras with 4/3 size sensors or larger are squarely in the "not pocketable" segment. And if you get a camera that you can't pocket, I suggest you simply get the best one for the money which is probably a dslr.

    That said, if you can live with an extremely compact zoom (there is only one model that I know of that telescopes and has motorized zoom) or even a fixed focal pancake lens, then you actually can pocket an interchangeable lens camera. Nikon also makes their 1-series cameras with smaller sensors and interchangeable lenses, but I feel they have the worse of both worlds (sensor of a compact and price of a slr).

    As usual here on the internet I'm going to recommend something different than what you asked for: a dslr. Go with Nikon D5100 or canon 600D as an entry level camera. Keep your phone or a good compact camera for snapshots.

  58. Panasonic GX1? by burning_plastic · · Score: 1

    The linked article is a good start - my personal preference would be a panasonic GX1 at the moment - it offers enough control so that you can grow with it and the panasonic G series cameras have generally been of fairly high quality for the field.

    If I didn't have a DSLR, I would probably get one of these as in most situations (especially when size is an issue when travelling) these cameras can produce images as good as a similar level DSLR.

  59. Re:the mirror is outdated - QED by syousef · · Score: 1

    the mirror is outdated - QED. that technology is simply extra parts when you think about how a digital camera works. there really is zero reason to have a mirror in the camera, all it does is make the device bigger and heavier. look into the micro 4/3rds line of camera, i love the G1 that i have. camera + 3 lenses comes to ~$1200 total, giving me everything from 16mm to 400mm. and it doesnt hurt my back when im walking around with the kit

    EVF and other compromises are atrocious for low light. Until they get better it won't be outdated. I look forward to that day.

    --
    These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
  60. Fit the camera to the job by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I have more cameras than sense. After many years experimentation I find that I chose the camera for the job at hand. If I'm going to take pictures of highly mobile grandkids or in low light, nothing but a fast SLR is going to do the job. If I'm walking around in a perhaps unsafe foreign city, I'll take a small pocket camera. For general travel a rangefinder with interchangeable lenses is ideal - it's light, generates superb pictures and doesn't stand out too much.

    The other thing to be aware of is that sensor size matters. The SLRs take better pictures because they have bigger sensors. The average point-and-shoot camera has a tiny sensor and the image quality shows it. A nice compromise is the Canon S100 (or a used S90 or S95). It has an intermediate-sized sensor; it fits in your pocket; and it takes nice pictures. Unless you care a lot about image quality, it makes a terrific travel camera. If you do care a lot about image quality then you should get an SLR or one of the high-end rangefinders.

  61. you'll never be "stuck" with lenses by SuperBanana · · Score: 2

    You'll thank me in the long run when you're not stuck with a million lenses for a camera you've outgrown.

    Uh - all the major mounting systems (Canon, Nikon, four thirds, Leica) are not going away soon. They'll work just fine with newer cameras. There is a little risk with the APS-C lenses (Canon calls them "EF-S", Nikon "DX"), but both companies sell buckets more APS-C cameras than they do pro cameras which have larger sensors. They're not going away any time soon.

    What you should NOT do is buy an emerging, unestablished lens mount system, like the Nikon 1. Also, if you have a large collection of old Nikkor AF lenses (or anticipate wanting to collect old, probably overrated and outdated lenses) that need a camera motor drive, some cheap Nikon dSLRs don't have that.

    In terms of "outgrowing":

    • EVF cameras are poor for shooting anything even slightly moving because of lag, and don't have good dynamic range (ie, bright areas blow out, dark areas are hard to see anything.) Even Sony's newest A77, which was lauded by reviewers for having a "great" EVF, is getting complaints about these problems. Driving the EVF also means the sensor is powered up and generating heat all the time, which increases noise.
    • LCD-panel (no viewfinder) cameras suck even more for anything even slightly moving.
    • The cheaper dSLR models usually cheap out on controls, and sometimes functionality. Most famously, the _0D series (serious amateur to most working photographers) from Canon had a back thumbwheel and index-finger wheel, whereas the Rebel (the "prosumer" line) had buttons. The thumbwheel usually is used for exposure compensation, which once you get shooting more, you use constantly. The thumbwheel works great; the buttons are a royal pain. Nikon's EV adjustment procedure on some of their cameras REALLY blows; you have to hold a button AND use a wheel.
    • Don't pay much attention to video abilities. They pretty much all suck in lots of different ways, from rolling shutter issues to lets-protect-our-video-camera-market recording length limits, to crappy codecs, to poor focusing, and so on.
    • When you start shooting for commercial purposes and your clients are reproducing your work on the sides of buildings, by all means, consider full-frame. Until then, go APS-C/DX like everyone else.
  62. Re:the mirror is outdated - QED by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Yes. It's outdated unless, of course, you shoot fashion...or night shots...or action....

    And Micro 4/3 is great...unless you want decent quality glass and high iso performance and....

    I love these discussions...people who know nothing about photography pontificating on photography.

  63. lens cost by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    one thing to consider with any camera purchase is how much the lenses cost between brands. There can be a massive difference with seemingly no quality difference. if your juggling between a few models pick a few lens sizes you think you'll get and do a comparison search. there are plenty of forums where people have shot identical scenes with different cameras/lenses and rated them.

  64. Lytro Light-Field Camera by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    1. Re:Lytro Light-Field Camera by Khyber · · Score: 1

      This camera is the answer.

      I now have one, I'm absolutely thrilled. Macro shots (even with my rig jobs of stacking lenses against the aperture) look excellent.

      --
      Still waiting on Serviscope_minor to wake up to fucking reality and realize that Jessica Price isn't going to fuck him.
  65. I have DSLRs, a P&S, and a decent cell phone. by aoeu · · Score: 1

    I can not imagine what void an EVIL camera would fill. The phone fits in my shirt pocket. It even has an LED flash and is never farther from my body than arms reach. The P&S lives in the car and goes in my back pocket on suspicion. A DSLR goes when there is a definite possibility of great photos and I configure the kit based on the opportunity anywhere from one lens to the big Halliburton.

    --
    All your database are belong to U.S.
  66. The Verge just published a great guide: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://www.theverge.com/2012/1/2/2663464/camera-buyers-guide /thread

  67. So buy a DSLR!?!?!? by sco_robinso · · Score: 0

    "...but I don't have the technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR"

    So this makes you essentially the same as 98% of other DSLR owners! Just buy a DSLR and just put it in AUTO mode. Done. If you don't have the technical knowledge to use a DSLR's fancy modes, then you wont be using a point and shoot's fancy modes either. Virtually every camera out there will take great pictures on auto mode, no questions asked.

    If interchangable lenses are what you want, you want a DSLR.

  68. in the endit depends what you need by gnalre · · Score: 1

    I had the same quandary. I have a panasonic compact which is great,but pants in less than optimal light. I looked at 4/ 3 cameras and was tempted by both sony, panasonic, and olympus offerings. However they are expensive, poor lens choice, and are not really pocketable . In the end you would be better off with something like a sony a35 dslr. Which is comparable price, has a viewfinder but has live view and a bettee selection of lenses

    --
    Choose your allies carefully, it is highly unlikely you will be held accountable for the actions of your enemies
  69. Re:DSLR(I prefer my GH-2) by vissy · · Score: 1

    I have a Panasonic GH2 and I couldn't be more happy with it. As for slow... whether you are talking about focus speed of aperture, I wouldn't agree on either.

    In terms of focus speed, the GH2 is very quick with the latest generation lenses, apparently rivals most entry level DSLR's in most situations. As for aperture, yes, currently there is a shortage of fast lenses in the tele region(though the new lenses Pana is releasing soon should fix this) but the shorter lengths are covered with some great compact lenses. For my usage the shorter stuff is more important as it is usually what you want indoors. I've got the 20mm f1.7 lens and it covers me well in this regard, though it does suffer the occasional focus hunting issue. I've got the 14-140 lens which to me is a fantastic lens, offering a useful range, fast focus and good video usage, I use it for everything except low light or fast stuff.

    As for the whole optical vs EVT, my personal preference is that I love the EVT. I specifically waited for an EVT(I was waiting and wondering BEFORE the first interchangeable lens EVT's were released) camera that met my needs because I didn't want a clunky mirror that flips in and out of place while taking a photo and I prefer the what you see is what you get. Of course, it's all a compromise and the biggest advantage of a real DSLR in my opinion is that it is a little more friendly for manual focus but given the readers question, I doubt that this will be a common use case.

    Also, a good mirrorless camera(GH2) will beat a DSLR for video. This is because when recording video, the DSLR can't use it's phase detect auto-focus system so it's severely hamstrung, it has to use contrast based focus like the mirrorless.... only the current generation of mirrorless cameras are much much better at doing contrast detect focus because their manufactures have invested a lot into this.

  70. Holy Grail by David_Hart · · Score: 1

    In summary, the OP is looking for a small camera that is not a DSLR but has all of the DSLR features macro, zoom, fast, etc.

    I could recommend getting a Canon S95 or S100 which would provide a pocketable camera with near DSLR photos and decent macro. Both of these cameras have larger sensors so they do well in low light. However it has a very little zoom.

    I could recommend a Canon PowerShot SX40 HS which has a 24 – 840 mm (35×) zoom. It's the size of a small DSLR. It would give you much better photos than a phone, but not as good as a DSLR.

    Personally, I have a S95 that I always carry with me when traveling. It's a great dinner, club, walk around camera. It's also great for people shots as it is less intimidating than my DSLR. I also bring a 40D with me with a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS lens that I use for travel photos. It doesn't have a huge zoom on it, but it does a good enough job.

    The problem with any decent zoom lens for a DSLR is that it is large and heavy. Carrying it around all day can be a pain, just to get that one shot that you needed the zoom for. Personally, I find myself taking wider scenic shots than close-up zooms. Of course, the OP could be into taking pictures of birds and animals, so this may be needed.

  71. outside the box by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Mamiya C330. It's a 150 megapixel mirrorless camera. Yeah, I doubted, too, until I had one. Now I have three.

    1. Re:outside the box by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It does have a mirror.

    2. Re:outside the box by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A fixed mirror, yes. The point of a mirrorless camera isn't the lack of a mirror so much as the lack of a *moving* mirror.

  72. I call bullshit on your bullshit by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    You think? About an intelligent answer instead of just posting a link?
    Nothing in the article you linked to address the fact that a DSLR will have better autofocus and high ISO performance.
    At this point MILC are less portable than a point a shoot with none of the advantages of a DSLR.

    1. Re:I call bullshit on your bullshit by the_B0fh · · Score: 1

      OP says MILC is a fad. Trey discusses at length why he, a professional photographer, is not buying any more DSLR bodies or lenses.

      He is very clear on his reasons. I agree with his reasons. Why is it unintelligent I state clearly the reasons are in the article in the URL.

      The original question is not asking for extreme autofocus or high ISO performance.

  73. very detailed answer to your question by dwallach · · Score: 2

    As it happens, I wrote a long document, initially for my friends, but others in this same situation might find it helpful.

    http://www.cs.rice.edu/~dwallach/step-up-camera2009.html (which I updated a month ago for the most current cameras)

    In short, there's no one-size-fits-all answer. For many people, a high-end compact camera like a Canon S100 or Panasonic LX5 will give them everything they want and then some. For others, the mirrorless compact cameras will be more attractive than a big DSLR. And there's no rule that says you're not allowed to own multiple cameras.

  74. Sony alpha 55 (a55) by adachan · · Score: 1

    Seriously -- you should look into the Sony a55 camera. It produces AMAZING images with little to no knowledge. If you want to learn, there are a plethora of used Minolta lenses that work well with the camera. This camera is great for beginners to experts alike. Don't waste your time and money with anything less. Many of the mirrorless cameras cost almost as much, aren't as easy to use and provide MUCH less room to grow.

  75. MLC vs DSLR? Micro 4/3s! by Shompol · · Score: 1

    Comparable quality and price, yet MLC wins on weight and compactness.

    Should you decide to stick with MLC, I recommend Olympus or Panasonic, since their Micro Four Third standard is supported by both companies and has a better chance of becoming an industry standard. Stay away from copycats like Nikon and Kodak. For example, I am using a Panasonic lens with my Olympus PEN. As someone already mentioned, choose carefully as the lenses are an investment, and you get stuck with the camera type once the choice is made.

    Arguments for MLC: Lightweight and compact, both the camera and lenses. Lack of internal mirror allows for better video recording, such as dynamic focus adjustment during video is not something a DSLR can do.
    Arguments for (half-frame) DSLR: Slightly better quality and low light performance. More lens variety on the market, at lower price, but the cheap ones are probably a "you get what you pay" deal. It is bigger and heavier but it is not like you can shove an MLC in a pocket either.

  76. Macro/tele by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

    If what you really want is just to be able to shoot a wide range, just get something with an appropriate lens. I got my wife a Canon SX-10, which is 28-560mm (35mm equiv.) over 2.8-5.6f. It's good for almost all uses and much cheaper than a DSLR. I can't see why she'd use a different lens, and it's not removable.

    I use something different but it's great for her needs.

    --
    My God, it's Full of Source!
    OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  77. Lumix G3 or GH2 by scharkalvin · · Score: 1

    I like the micro 4/3 format. There are LOTS of lens choices from Panasonic, Olympus, and a few third party makers (including a real nice full frame fisheye for under $300). In addition there are adapters that let you use lenses from Leica, Canon, Nikon and many others (mostly in manual focus mode). Since I came from the DSLR camp wanting a lighter and smaller camera while keeping the eye level viewfinder I prefer the cameras made by Panasonic under their Lumix brand. I own the G3 and I'm very happy with it. If you want a few more gizmos in the HD video department then the GH2 is the camera for you. Teamed up with the 14-140mm F4 zoom you probably won't need to buy another lens. I have the 14-42 and 45-200 lenses with my G3 that just about cover everything. (I also have a "T" adapter for u4/3 that lets me use my old Spiratone 400MM manual lens ... that's an 800mm 35mm equal on the G3!)

    1. Re:Lumix G3 or GH2 by fstolze · · Score: 1

      Agreed - but I would recommend a pancake lens (Lumix G 20mm F/1.7) as your allround lens. Extremely fast and great at low-light situations (indoor pictures!). I use this with my GH2 - a camera I can highly recommend, very versatile (lighter and smaller than your DSLR), very fast and a great picture quality. In most cases the pancake lens will be your best friend, with a decent zoom lens for when you really need it.

  78. Go Mirrorless by starlabs · · Score: 1

    Think hard about buying a DSLR. I went with mirrorless after doing a ton of research, and also because of what I saw with almost every single one of my friends who bought into the DSLR "monopoly": they stopped using their cameras after a couple of months. Why? Because it's too big. The body is large, the lens are large. And heavy. Odds are, this will happen to you too.

    As other posters will mention, the best camera is the camera you have with you.

    Mirrorless cameras are a compromise. They are a compromise between image quality and size. For a lot of people, this is a worthwhile compromise over DSLRs. Honestly for most people, with the exception of pro photographers, MILCs and high end compacts (Canon S100, Panasonic LX5, Olympus XZ-1, etc) will do just as well as a DSLR. Most people will not be able to tell the difference in image quality between these cameras, especially photos taken in good light.

    With most MILCs, you get enough shallow depth of field with the right fast prime lenses and you don't feel like you're carrying a brick with you. People are more relaxed around you, because they won't think twice about that "large" point-and-shoot you're carrying.

    In my opinion Micro Four Thirds (Olympus + Panasonic) are the most viable MILCs now, due to the large number of high quality native lenses (disclaimer: I own an Olympus E-P3 and love it to death). Sony NEX series follows - they just need to release better/more lenses. Nikon's new 1 series (V1, J1) aren't of interest to me due to the small sensor size.

    Go to DPReview.com and read, read, read.

  79. Absolutely do not get a DSLR. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    A blurry noisy pic shot with a pocket-size compact camera is infinitely better than a technically superior quality image not shot with that beautiful, expensive DSLR you left at home because of its weight and size.

  80. tethering? by BabaG1 · · Score: 1

    to my knowledge, none of these kinds of cameras (milc) have tethering software available. i too would like to use one but my task is shooting timelapse to a laptop. i also use an external trigger. basically, i use the tethering app to define camera settings and the external trigger to actually take the shot. without the remote control software for this, i'm stuck with the larger dslr. if anyone knows otherwise, please advise. if you ever might need anything like tethering, you might be out of luck for these mid-range cameras. seems like the manufacturers have reserved the tethering for the pricier models. BabaG

  81. Canon S100 by Fishbulb · · Score: 1

    I picked up a Canon S95 after owning an older model that lasted me for years. The S100 is the newest model upgrade from that, fits in your pocket, and has a fully manual mode, right down to the focus. Not bad for a point-n-shoot. The lens is the equivalent of 24mm-120mm zoom on a 35mm camera.

    Pretty decent range of capabilities out of the box, but you can also expand on the range using CHDK, if you don't mind getting a bit technical.

  82. Pentax Q by Tranzistors · · Score: 1

    It really depends on what you want form the beast, but I would suggest looking into Pentax Q camera.
    Strong side: really small (camera and lenses), solid, has controls of a DSLR.
    Weak side: expensive, small sensor, not many lenses (without adapter at least).
    Small sensor is not always a bad thing. It depends, if you want to fight with focusing.

  83. More important than MILC vs DSLR is VIEWFINDER by R80_JR · · Score: 1

    More important than MILC or DLSR or XXXX is a separate viewfinder. Cameras with just an LCD/LED/OLED panel on the back really don't cut it. Especially outside during the daytime. I think a viewfinder (through lens or separate) is much more convenient.

    1. Re:More important than MILC vs DSLR is VIEWFINDER by PPH · · Score: 1

      Yes, absolutely. Disabling the LCD saves some battery power as well.

      On the other hand, look at one with an LCD/whatever panel that can swing out and twist around. Invaluable if you want to take pictures while holding the camera at odd angles, up over your head (in a crowd at a concert, for example).

      I got some remarkable shots that look like I was hanging out off Hadrian's Wall (over the cliff) by putting my Canon PowerShot on the end of a long monopod, setting the 10 second self timer and sticking it horizontally out off the wall. The LCD was visible (enough) to line up the shot. There are some people who think I must have been hanging out in the air in a harness to get that shot.

      --
      Have gnu, will travel.
  84. Gx1 by eriks · · Score: 1

    I'm (mostly) happy with my Lumix GF1 -- I bought mine with the 20mm lens, which is nice for indoor shots without a flash, and the 45-200, which is a nice lens for the money -- though the 100-300 is better for birds (also more expensive) -- I spent around a grand for everything including, a glass screen protector and uv(c) filters to protect the lenses, extra battery, lenspen and Bag. I also got a converter to use my old nikon manual lenses, which is fun.

    I think the GX1 is a little better, but my one wish is that my GF1 had less noisy high-ISO. I can't really use anything beyond about 800, and in a lot of cases, really more like 400. I had hoped (based on reviews) that 800 would be usable. Perhaps the review sample's sensor was better then the one in my unit.

    The other thing is that I don't really care for the "fly by wire" manual focus. I'm getting used to it, but I prefer the manual focus on my old Nikon lenses. I'm thinking of investing in a ClearViewer, for shooting in bright sun, since I don't have the EVF, since I figured that'd defeat the purpose of having a bulky, but still pocketable camera.

    If I were doing it again now, I'd probably get the T3i -- though the GFX with the 14-45 pancake does look nice, and would certainly be in the running.

    I do appreciate the fact that even full of kit, my bag is pretty light, and if I want to, with the 20mm pancake, I can put the whole camera in my coat pocket and run out the door. Can't do that with the T3i. There's the adage: You can't take any good photos if you don't have your camera with you. So there's something to be said for (relatively) light and pocketable.

  85. My 2 cents by ilotgov · · Score: 1

    I used many cameras since around 1975 specially while traveling.
    While backpacking for many moths I liked to have the camera with me at all times. Weight, bulk and robustness are important on the road, so I would not recommend a heavy DSLR for this purpose. To have a good camera built in the phone is very handy because it reduces the bulk and weight so much. A small camera also reduces the shines-factor if you take informal pictures of peoples.
    I used to have a waterproof, 2nd camera with me and appreciated not to have to worry about it on the beach, on boats or in the rain/dust.
    For macro photography a closeup lens can be handy, it is inexpensive and lightweight but requires a thread in front of your lens to mount it. Clip-on macro lenses could be available for your phone.
    A viewfinder is a must for a 'serious' camera, in my opinion. Make sure a digital viewfinder has a good resolution so that you can verify the sharpness of your picture (more than 1 M pixel).
    I am using a 'Four Thirds' http://www.dpreview.com/news/2010/3/7/panasonicg2 format camera for a year now and am very happy with it. I used 'Super-Zoom' cameras before because they are low weight an all-in-one but the image quality was rather poor. I can not recommend this type of camera.

    In the end it will payoff to do your home work: make a list of features required and read as many reviews as you have time for.

  86. trust your gut by unami · · Score: 0

    if money is of the essence, get a dslr - you'll probably get more bang for the buck and the auto-modes are just as easy to use as the ones on the MILC. (and manual modes are easier still, because of more control-elements) if it's not about the money, the MILC gives you the smaller package. if you like to photograph on concerts, the MILC is the way to go - i've been denied entrance more than once, because a DSLR is considered a "professional Camera" whereas the MILC is not. having said that - you'll get good pictures with both of them, it's lenses, lighting and first and foremost the photographer who makes a good picture. go into a store, try both and buy whatever feels best in your hands. you could also bring your own memory card, and compare the pictures you took at home. for a MILC i'd go with the micro-four-thirds system. the sony-nex series seems to be quite good as well but you won't have as big a choice of lenses as you get with the m43 DSLR: + more lenses, more accessoires + cheaper (and bigger used-market) + seem to focus faster + real viewfinder (useful if you need to take a pic in bright conditions) + better manual controls, if needed - bigger, heavier, lenses also tend to be heavier MILC + smaller body, prime lenses (no zoom) can be quite small + the best camera is the camera you have on you + option to use as good as any lens out there with the right adapter (but you'll have to use most of them manually - so at least as complex to use as a dslr, probably more complex because of lack of manual controls on the camera) - more expensive - less accessoires

  87. Nikon 1 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Check out the Nikon 1... It has two types of bodies, one with optical through the lens viewfinder.
    And several lens types are available.

    http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Nikon-1-Cameras/index.page

  88. Re:DSLR (Monopod) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    A monpod is ideal for travel, since it can be used for the camera where a tripod is inappropriate or lengthly to setup, and also as a walking stick. Going back down the Great Wall of China (near Beijing) it proved invaluable as a time saver, even though I am a relatively fit senior.

  89. Best Advice: Ask somewhere else by LittleRedStar · · Score: 1

    Ask your question at a dedicated photography website, try the forums at dpreview to start with.

  90. ...because now you are... by syousef · · Score: 1

    ...now taking 2 exposures simulatenously - 1 flash and 1 ambient

    --
    These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
  91. Nikon 1 by csumpi · · Score: 1

    I recently got a Nikon J1.

    It's an awesome camera. It has a hybrid phase detection / contrast detection auto focus system, which makes focusing on par with DSLRs. I needed good auto focus, because I mostly take pictures of my kids.

    You'll see people complaining about its small sensor size, but in my experience the camera takes amazing photos. You could get better high ISO (low light) photos out of micro four thirds cameras, but what good are they if their auto focus sucks?

    I got the 10mm f2.8 lens and the stock 10-30mm lens combo. The 10mm lens is amazing, it's what I use most of the time. With the 10mm lens I can also carry the camera in my pocket.

    The camera also takes very nice full HD videos. And the 400fps shooting mode (although at lower resolution) is a lot of fun.

    The most accurate review of the camera (ie the one that actually matches my experience) is this one:

    http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-11666-11988

  92. Technical knowledge? by MoxFulder · · Score: 1

    I want a camera that's better than my phone, but I don't have the technical knowledge to fully appreciate a DSLR.

    I don't mean to be overly pedantic, but there's very little difference in "technical knowledge" required to operate DSLR vs. a MILC. The fundamental differences are mainly that DSLRs offer larger sensors and real optical through-the-lens viewfinders, while MILCs are a bit smaller and quieter.

    Also, no one has technical knowledge to appreciate a DSLR until they start to play around with one for a while. I suggest trying as many models of each as you can, in person, at a knowledgeable camera store or by borrowing from friends. The ergonomics and convenience of a camera are at least as important as its technical capabilities in terms of allowing and encouraging you to take great photos.

  93. greedy filth by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    fuck sony

  94. Skip interchangable by Overzeetop · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Seriously. Unless you have a very special need, it's mostly geek bling. Same with a good SLR.

    Go with a compact superzoom (preferred, you'll carry it everywhere), or a regular superzoom if you have the patience to carry a bulkier camera. I've had probably a dozen cameras over the last 8 years. I am an engineer who has to evaluate buildings, so I'm outdoors, shooting stuff on roofs and up in attics, down in subgrade basement/steam tunnels. Good lighting, crappy lighting, close to stuff, far from stuff. I've got a Lumix ZS5 and a ZS7. I put a carabiner on the wrist-strap ring and clip it to my side belt loop. I get surprisingly good pictures - not perfect, but I never miss a shot.

    FWIW, I also own a D3 and about $10k worth of glass, from a 14/f2.8 up to 300/F2.8. It takes fucking awesome pictures, and I get stuff that's just darned near impossible to do with almost any other camera. You know what I take on vacation? Yup - the ZS5. I don't want multiple pieces and I don't want a camera bag.

    --
    Is it just my observation, or are there way too many stupid people in the world?
  95. The photos you wish you took with the DSLR... by csumpi · · Score: 1

    ...if you actually had it with you.

    I have a Nikon DSLR, a smartphone with a camera and now a Nikon J1.

    Before I got the Nikon J1, I found that most of the photos were taken with my phone's camera, because the DSLR is just way too big to carry around.

    I wanted better photos, but carrying an extra bag with the DSLR everywhere was not an option. So I got the Nikon J1.

    The auto focus on the Nikon 1 is incredible. As fast as DSLRs (if not faster than). The images are awesome, despite all the people who never owned 1 (lol) complaining about the small sensor on the internet.

    Now I still have a DSLR that stays at home (just like before), and the Nikon 1 in my bag or pocket that takes amazing photos.

    I'm pretty sure that other mirrorless compacts cameras (NEX, X100, 4/3s etc) are also great. What sold me on the Nikon 1 was the auto focus.

  96. What type of photography? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    If your starting photography, I would try a good P&S that has control of aperture,. shutter and manual. It's easier to carry. Most DSLR kit lenses won't give you significant better quality pictures than a P&S camera. I would read various photography web sites.

    The following are my favorite sites:
    photo.net anything there is great reading.

    lensrental.com: the owner has gone the gamut of different purchase, DSLR with cheap lenses, expensive zooms, expensive primes.
    Lenses Don't Collect the Whole Set

    Best Canon EOS lenses

    Canon Lenses Reviews

    And as another note, I would ask what type of pictures are you taking. Because there isn't one universal solution.
    Option 1: I was very happy for years with a high end point and shoot like the Canon Powershot models. And really like the ones that use AA batteries. The upper end models have full control over aperture and shutter. And I was able to experiment with try different type of pictures. At the top, the G12 has one of the best lenses for a P&S. I usually went with lower priced models like the SX130/SX150. The SX130/SX150 use AA batteries. I kept spare rechargeable and spare alkaline AA batteries so I rarely had problems of batteries. Limitations: No interchangeable lens. Dust and water can easily damage camera.

    Option 2: Waterproof/Shockproof/Dustproof camera. I would pick one of these for travel. They should be able to handle beaches, storms, etc.

    Option 3: Indoor photography. I started to take indoor photography where flash is prohibited or the subject was too far away. So I needed something with a fast lens. This option eliminates almost all Point and Shoot cameras. I bought a DSLR with a 50 mm (f1.8) lens just to get the feel of this photography. And was able to take indoor pictures that were impossible with a P&S camera. I added a 100mm f2.0 lens to take indoor gymnasium sports photos. Limitations: larger, not as convenient to carry.

    Other options: scaba diving, outdoor sports, race cars, museums, portraits, travel etc.

    I haven't used the smaller 4:3 frame cameras. I do like the smaller size. But I like the versatility of the DSLR or the compactness of a P&S.

    WhatMeWorry!

  97. You don't need technical knowledge by koan · · Score: 1

    So I suggest the Canon T3i DSLR, as the lens is everything in a camera, megapixels not so much, however the T3i has plenty of megapixels too.
    It also doubles as a 1080P video camera and since you can change the lens the video options are fantastic for the price point, the Canon software that comes with it lets you control the camera tethered as well as teach you what the functions do as you get instant feedback when changing the settings.
    So even as a novice it's easy to use, looks great, takes fantastic pictures/video then when you're ready, you can get very deep into it and creative.

    Seriously consider it.

    --
    "If any question why we died, Tell them because our fathers lied."
  98. Higher-end P&S by rlk · · Score: 1

    Right now I'd suggest a higher end point & shoot (e. g. Canon G or SX series, depending upon what you're looking for) more than a mirrorless interchangeable lens camera. The image quality, particularly at high ISO, will indeed be better with an EVIL due to the larger sensor (although some of the EVIL cameras, such as the new Nikons, use a rather small sensor), but they're less convenient, and don't really have more features, than a good P&S.

    My Canon SX-1, for example, has the equivalent of 28-560 zoom range, and quite good macro capability. It can also use an E-TTL flash (I use my 550EX on it, occasionally). Some of the newer ones have wider angle lenses than that, although not as wide as the Olympus 7-14 (14-28 equivalent) lens available on micro 4/3.

    But if convenience and telephoto capability is more important, a P&S will still beat an EVIL, and for a lot less money to boot.

  99. Photography basics by Leuf · · Score: 2

    The basics of photography are a simple equation made to appear complicated by using obscure notation.

    Exposure = Shutter Speed x Aperture x Sensitivity

    Exposure is the total amount of light captured, and the camera attempts to guess at what the correct exposure is. When it's guess is not what you had in mind you use Exposure Compensation to tell it what you want, or go to full manual mode and take control, though the camera will still show you how far you are away from what it thinks.

    The reason why you can change different parameters is that in addition to affecting exposure they also have additional effects on the image.

    Sensitivity is the simplest since it is just the gain applied. The tradeoff for increasing the gain is more noise and therefore less image quality, but otherwise doesn't change the image.

    Shutter Speed affects how motion is captured, including your own motion while holding the camera.

    Aperture is the most complicated. First it's expressed in an obscure form such as f/2.8 that you can't plug into our equation, but just know that one click of the dial when you change the aperture has the same effect as one click on the dial when you control the shutter as far as the exposure is concerned. What it affects in the image is called the Depth of Field, which is how far in front and behind the plane of focus will be sharp. But Depth of Field is also affected by the distance to the focal plane and the focal length of the lens. This is where there is no substitute for experience. The smaller the aperture (bigger f number) the more depth of field.

    One of the main reasons for using a dslr is that the image sensor is larger, which means you use longer actual focal length lenses than a compact camera. This in turn gives you less depth of field for the equivalent field of view. A compact camera with a small sensor gives you very little control over the depth of field except at very close focus distances.

    That's it. The various modes of the camera are just about which of the variables you are going to control and which you are going to let the camera control. But only in Manual mode will the camera not balance the exposure out for you, so don't be afraid to turn the dial away from Auto or Program. I use Aperture Priority 90% of the time, since that's the one that has the most effect on the image.

    1. Re:Photography basics by brantondaveperson · · Score: 1

      Want to add to this:

      f/8.0 is the sharpest aperture, beyond that you lose sharpness but gain depth of field. As you get to even smaller apertures ,f/16.0 and above, point light sources start to give you lovely starburst effects.

      Important points that I didn't know about until recently.

    2. Re:Photography basics by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not quite.

      Exposure = (Shutter Speed x ISO) / Aperture^2

      Equivalent increments are factors of two for shutter speed and ISO (higher values = more light) and factors of 1.4 for aperture (lower values = more light). This increment is also known as one stop (EC is typically measured in stops).

  100. Get a Micro Four Thirds Camera ... and a book. by Qbertino · · Score: 1

    The Micro Four Thirds format for lenses appears to be ruling the mirror-less market by now. I'd recommend looking into the Olympus E-PL3 or a 'bigger' model. Micro Four Thirds lenses are interchangeable between manufacturers, so you'll be able to use Panasonic lenses with Olympus and vice versa.

    But most important, get a book on photography, preferably before buying a camera.
    I'm currently reading "Understanding Exposure" by Brian Petersen.
    My first book on photography. It's very good and I recommend it highly.

    My 2 cents.

    --
    We suffer more in our imagination than in reality. - Seneca
  101. Olympus PEN by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    An Olympus PEN.-3 series has great specs and size. I hope to get one if my work bonus comes through.

    The electronic viewfinder is brighter and more flexable (detachable, movable, etc.) than that of any of the dslr finders that I've looked through.

  102. Point-and-shoot with manual controls by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Well, the submitter was asking about something better than a cellphone camera and not knowing the benefits of DSLR. So my suggestion would be to get a high-end "prosumer" point-and-shoot with optical zoom and (pseudo) manual focus. Sure a professional photographer would find the images wanting, but if all you want is stuff you can upload on Flicker or Picassa, it's better to get a single camera that you can slip into your handbag than a DSLR that needs its own backpack and a fair amount of lens juggling just to get a good on-the-go shot.

    This is especially good advice unless you're planning to shoot a lot of low light/night-time scenes, which is where P&S typically fail relative to full DSLRs. (I've never been able to produce a night shot with my high-end P&S that approaches the clarity of one taken by my friend's low-end DSLR.) Haze is also a problem. For fair weather use a good P&S with optical zoom is more than up to the task.

  103. NEX-5N by RzUpAnmsCwrds · · Score: 3, Informative

    Ignore the people telling you to get a DSLR because it has better picture quality.

    There are a lot of factors that determine the quality of your images, but the most substantial is sensor size. The sort of DSLRs that you would buy (that is, the ones under $2000) use APS-C sized sensors.

    Guess what the Sony NEX-5N (a MILC) uses? An APS-C sensor. And it's arguably the best APS-C sized sensor on the market.

    The NEX-5N takes pictures that rival any APS-C DSLR, and it does so for a considerably lower price than many DSLRs.

    There are still a lot of good reasons to buy an APS-C DSLR over the NEX-5N:

    • Lenses. The NEX series uses E-mount lenses, and there aren't a lot of choices. This is improving, but we're still talking about the difference between thousands of lenses for EOS (Canon) or F-mount (Nikon) and fewer than 20 for E-mount. You can get adapters for A-mount (Sony DSLR) lenses, but they bulk up the camera. You can also get adapters for virtually any other format (including EOS and F-mount) but you lose auto-aperture and autofocus.
    • Speed. The NEX-5N is not a slow camera by any means, but there are many DSLRs that are faster.
    • Battery life. DSLRs can keep the screen off, plus they generally have larger batteries. The NEX-5N lasts ~350 shots on a charge; expect 2x that from a DSLR
    • Manual controls. I find the controls on the NEX-5N to be fine, especially since you can customize the buttons and create a
      custom quick menu. Still, DSLRs typically have more buttons which means easier access to settings quickly.
    • Viewfinder. If you want a viewfinder, optical is tough to beat (though the NEX7 has an OLED viewfinder that is excellent).

    And there are a lot of good reasons to buy an NEX-5N over an APS-C DSLR:

    • Lens adapters. You can mount basically any 35mm lens on the NEX-5N with an adapter because the flange-back distance is lower than on any other format. This includes Canon and Nikon lenses, classic and modern rangefinder lenses like Leica lenses, and a lot more. Yes, you have to use manual focus and aperture. But it's still a very cool capability.
    • Size. The NEX-5N is way smaller and lighter than any DSLR. Even with the Sony 18-55mm lens it fits in a large pocket or small camera bag, and it's even smaller with the Sony 16mm pancake lens.
    • It doesn't look like a DSLR. This may be a big factor if you don't want to look like a professional photographer (for example, at concerts or while doing covert journalism).
    • Video. The NEX-5N takes 1080p60 video in H.264 at 28Mbps, and 1080p24 at 24Mbps. Most DSLRs in the same price range (and even many that are more expensive) are limited to 1080p24 or 720p60, both of which are inferior if you want to record fast action (like sporting events) or just hate low-frame-rate video.
    • Value. The NEX-5N has better high-ISO performance, better dynamic range, and more resolution than basically any camera under $1000.

    I love my NEX-5N. It is not perfect for everyone, or for every purpose. But if you aren't interested in buying a ton of lenses, you don't like using a viewfinder, and you prefer a compact camera without crappy picture quality, the 5N is a really good choice.

    1. Re:NEX-5N by dotancohen · · Score: 1

      I find the controls on the NEX-5N to be fine, especially since you can customize the buttons and create a custom quick menu.

      How do you configure the shortcuts. Other posters have mentioned that they are not configurable in the Sonys.

      --
      It is dangerous to be right when the government is wrong.
  104. Mirrorless lacks in quality compared to a DSLR... by qqaz · · Score: 1

    ...if you insist on comparing apples and oranges. Yes, a high-end DSLR will obviously outperform any mirrorless except the M9 because there are no high-end mirrorless cameras except the M9! That said, I guarantee that my $200 NEX-3's sensor will outperform any DSLR at that price point. And those DSLRs can't even mount any of the lenses I own. For me, the choice is obvious.

    You like SLRs, and that's fine. It doesn't mean they're better, it only means you prefer them.

    --
    sup :cool:
  105. Olympus E-P3 by John.Banister · · Score: 1

    I recommend (and have recently purchased) the Olympus E-P3 because it has the largest sensor that provides sensor-shift type image stabilization, and because micro four-thirds cameras have available very nice primes that are physically smaller than comparable lenses for DSLRs. If sensor-shift type image stabilization (which works with the huge number of non stabilized lenses that can be attached via third party adapters to that camera) isn't something you think you'd find valuable, then you might want to consider the Sony NEX series. If the physical size of the lenses for NEX works for you, I think Sony has more money to spend on updating their sensors for future bodies.

  106. 2 specific threads on DPReview by EdZep · · Score: 1

    ...Panasonic forum. There are probably dozens of threads like these, among the other DPR forums. These get into Micro 4/3 vs superzooms, in particular. There are good arguments for both sides of the debate.

    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1033&message=40183848

    http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1033&message=40183973

  107. optical vs lcd view finder by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    While you are staring into the lcd view finder of a so called mirrorless or P&S with the camera at arms length away from your body you introduce a lot more shake and rotation on all three axes vs holding an optical viewfinder camera close to your body while you peer through the optical finder. After using a dslr I now prefer to look through the little pinhole view finders on pocket cams instead of looking at a 2" lcd. Not all mirrorless cams come with optical view finders. Why buy an expensive camera that forces you to hold it far from your body and suffer all the extra shake and vibration. With mirrorless you get a smaller noisier sensor and less compatibility with the manufacturer's past 20 years of products that work with its entry level dslr. Each major manufactuer's entry level dslr costs less and does more commonly desired photography tasks better than any mirrorless or 4/3.

    1. Re:optical vs lcd view finder by Geeky · · Score: 1

      I get around this by using the neck strap. I hold the camera at full arms length so the strap is taut around my neck and I'm applying pressure - it works a treat for keeping LCD based cameras steady.

      I have a Nikon D7000 as my main SLR, but use a Panasonic GF1 with the 20mm lens as my occasional shooter. It's getting a bit long in the tooth now and it's high ISO performance is a little lacking, but it's a nice camera to use.

      --
      Sigs are so 1990s. No way would I be seen dead with one.
  108. Try a less ambitious step first by stewartjm · · Score: 1

    Just about any camera over say $50, is going to be light years better than a cellphone camera.

    Only buy an interchangeable lens camera if:
    1. You've already spent significant time with a prosumer camera(Canon s100/Panasonic lx5/other large sensor compact cameras), and you have run into their limitations.
    2. You plan to spend many times more money on lenses, than you did on the camera itself.
    3. You're absolutely sure you want to lug it, and all of it's lenses and accessories, around with you everywhere you might want to take pictures.

    Excluding telephoto ranges, a prosumer camera, with it's matched optics is going to perform as well or better than a low to medium end DSLR or other interchangeable lens camera, and do so for a lot less money.

    If you really really need telephoto type ranges, then you'll have to settle for the limitations of a pro-/con-sumer super-zoom, or spring for, and lug around, an interchangeable lens camera. In some cases a better option is to buy the equipment to hook up a pro-/con-sumer camera to a spotting scope. In any case, even a consumer super-zoom will still be way way way better than a cell phone camera.

    And I will echo, that the only current mirrorless camera system, that might be worth the money, is probably the Sony.... But I hear it lacks for great lenses. And ugh, it's Sony....

    I would say, if you just want a camera to take "good" pictures with, in decent to great photographic conditions, buy a super zoom of some sort. If you also definitely want to try your hand at really learning how to take pictures, then either give up the super-zoom, for a small prosumer camera. Or... buy both. Even together, they'll take up less space and weight, than a single decent DSLR or micro-4/3rds telephoto lens. And with 2 cameras, you'll have a backup in case one breaks.

  109. Fuji LX by Jon+Abbott · · Score: 1

    Wait until CES 2012 next week and see if Fuji announces their LX mirrorless interchangeable lens camera. If the rumors and leaked photos are accurate, it will be like the highly-rated X100 except with interchangeable lenses.

  110. The best camera is the one you have with you by curvedinfinity · · Score: 1

    Taking a picture is taking a picture. 50 years ago they took great pictures with much lower quality hardware and technology than there is today. Thus the art of photography is the shot which you take, not the camera you take it with. So I'm all for MILCs. As a category they are in my opinion the best compromise between utility and portability currently available. I have an Olympus PEN E-PL1 with a general purpose lens and a superzoom lens. Its smaller and lighter than my old prosumer camera, with better controls and low light quality. Works great. I'd say try the different MILCs and pick the one you like the best. I liked the Olympus and Sony ones best personally. The Panasonics and Olympuses share the Micro Four-Thirds lens system, so they both get a wider variety of lenses, which is nice. If I were doing it over, I'd honestly just go for another E-PL1 at $280 new. The newer versions are better but not worth the extra $ in my opinion.

  111. Read Ken Rockwell; get an X100 or a low-end DSLR by BenEnglishAtHome · · Score: 0

    A couple of things -

    MILCs aren't mature, they're overpriced, and it only takes a short amount of time using any sort of electronic viewfinder to learn that they *all* are incredibly frustrating when compared to actually seeing your subject via photons bouncing off and coming into your eye. You can do that with an SLR or a viewfinder camera.

    Ken Rockwell has lots of haters but he tends to provide reasonably good info. Read the whole page, but start here: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/recommended-cameras.htm#people

  112. Interesting observations by tanveer1979 · · Score: 2

    Most of the highly rated comments in this discussion are as silly as highly popular comments in the "technical discussion about computers etc.," in photography sites like dpreview.
    Seriously, dpreview would give you better advice
    1. Handle cams in your budget. Remember, its you, not a reviewer who is going to use it
    2. Read in depth reviews(dpreview). Do not go by reviwers observations completely, also look at samples at 100%(if you like to print), or 25%, or if you pictures will rarely leave the screen

    That said, the Panasonic GH/X/G series are nice cams in the EVIL space(yes, we call them EVIL, Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens.

    Olympus is decent too, but I feel panasonic has better handle on the Micro 4/3 and 4/3 space

    If you want a larger sensor, then Sony NEX-7(or 5N) is your best bet. The 7 is truly a wonderful cam.

    That said, only advantage a Mirrorless will have is size.
    It will have the same gazillion settings(M mode,. Aperture, Shutter.... as a DSLR).

    BTW, I had a 350D, and shifted to D7000. I also own a FZ35(Panasonic), and love the little cam. However, I sometimes do take 15-20 minute + exposures, so I have to stick with Canon, Nikon or Sony. Since Sony is very frightfully expensive in India, I went for a Nikon(Sony sensor).

    Lastly, the Nex-7 sensor is truly a class apart. I wonder how could they control noise in such a densely packed sensor.

    The 4/3,m4/3 cams will be noiser, and if you frequently use ISO 1600+, you will have trouble.
    Other than that, they truly rock.

    --
    My Aurora : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o91ZsGwJYyg
    FB : https://www.facebook.com/TanveersPhotography
  113. Panasonic DMC-GH2 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I personally use the Panasonic DMC-GH2, and I am reasonably happy with it (though not ecstatic). The kit lens provides for a 28-280mm zoom range, which does not have enough telephoto magnification for my tastes, but there are relatively cheap telephoto lenses available. The GH2 is somewhat unique among its class in that its autofocus performance is almost instantaneous; in fact, it's faster than on my old Canon Digital Rebel.

    Pros:
    + Relatively small size
    + Fast autofocus
    + Excellent movie mode with full manual control
    + RAW support

    Cons:
    - Noise; anything above ISO 800 is pretty much unusable, and you really need NeatImage or some similar software to get rid of noise even at lower ISO ratings.
    - Noise, again; at ISOs around 400 and above the camera sometimes produces streaky noise patterns that are hard to get rid of
    - Slower autofocus performance in low light
    - Poor color balance; photos can appear drab and yellowish without extensive tuning and/or Photoshop tweaking
    - The "i.Dynamic" mode sounds awesome but does nothing

    Despite the cons, I still prefer this camera to full-sized SLRs. This is the camera that I most often take with me when I go somewhere.
    -

  114. Check out the E-P3 by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I recently got an Olympus E-P3 and am very happy with it. The kit 14-42mm zoom lens is surprisingly sharp for a zoom, and while it's true that a DSLR with a larger sensor will do better in low light, I'm not having any problems with it, even indoors with limited lighting. There's a good review at http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/OlympusEP3/.

    I've heard good things about the Sony someone else recommended, too.

  115. Re:Here are the only two metrics you should look a by Whiney+Mac+Fanboy · · Score: 1

    I'm an experienced photographer.

    But apparently not experienced enough to know the quality of the optics are as important as the sensor size & far more important than the ability to dump raw (unless you're planning on spending a lot of time on post-processing)

    --
    There are shills on slashdot. Apparently, I'm one of them.
  116. Best of both worlds by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Sony A77. DSLT.

    I purchased an A55 last year, and after a number of professional photographer friends played with it, when the A77 was announced they got them for themselves for Christmas.

    One was seriously ticked off that Nikon has left the "pro-sumer" bodies dangling with no hope of a new one in sight. He dumped all his Nikons and glass, and bought the A77 and appropriate new glass. He's already shooting above the quality level of his high-mid-range Nikon bodies.

    The other was an old Minolta fan from way back and that's really the key to Sony's latest lineups... they didn't innovate. They bought Minolta. Then they made adjustments to what Minolta was already doing both in the real-world, and R&D.

    The result is the A77 is one hell of a camera.

  117. If size matters... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Entry level DSLRs from Nikon, Canon, Pentax or Sony are all capable of taking great pictures. They all have auto settings that function like point and shoot, They have relatively large sensors, and would often be the best bang for the buck option. I have been using Nikon SLRs and DSLRs since 1973. My D700 is very good, but heavy.

    Mirrorless means smaller size and weight, and they can use any old system camera lens for Leica, Contax and Nikon rangefinders and practically all SLR system lenses ever made.
    I have a Sony NEX 5n that gives me incredibly good image quality with old manual lenses. It is almost as good as my D700 in low light, and it also has visibly better sharpness. Focus peeking makes manual focus easy and accurate. At $699, it was a bargain compared to other options in the same price segment. And the camera body with an APS-C sensor is like a point and shoot in size and weight. The lenses have to be bigger to cover the larger sensor.

    No, I am not selling any of the mentioned products. Just sharing my opinions.

  118. DSLR and P&S M3/4 in that order. by bronney · · Score: 1

    Get an unbeatable entry level, Nikon D3100, kit lens 18-55mm, by "telephoto" in your post I bet you meant telescopic, aka zoom lens. Get one more 35 1.8 dx af-s prime lens for the "standard" (50mm in full frame terms cuz your cam is an APS-C).

    Shoot that until it hurts, until you learn the light. Or you can study it on wiki whatnot. But shoot that until you can shoot with your eyes. And then we'll welcome you to the bankruptcy of buying more gears.

    My advice, Be a Man. Haul a dinky light plastic DSLR and 2 lenses for now and don't settle for the mini's. You'll thank me when it's too dark for that that shot with a smaller sensor. The NEX with the same size sensor though, is fine. But if you learn to shoot with the optical VF first, you'll be much better. You'll notice the shutter speed and aperture better.

    Come back when you're broke.

  119. MILC drawbacks: slow focus, low light issues by xarope · · Score: 2

    Just be careful of the MILC drawbacks; slow to focus (a couple of people have already pointed this out), and poor(er) handling in low light (there was another dpreview article, mirrorless primer or somesuch, that also mentions this). Between my (aging) LX3 and a full DSLR, until they improve the 4/3 and m4/3s in terms of performance (and remember this is a very young market), I am still considering upgrading to an LX5 as I feel there's nothing in-between worth spending the money on, to fill that gap.
    Ah, here's the article: http://www.dpreview.com/articles/0344780582/mirrorless-cameras-a-primer
    and quote:
    The first is the inability to match the autofocus speed of DSLRs when conducting continuous or predictive AF. Single-shot AF tends not to be so much of an issue, with most recent Mirrorless models able to match or, in the case of Nikon, Olympus and Panasonic, exceed the single-attempt focusing speed of most DSLRs. ... The other drawback we've encountered is that the Mirrorless cameras we've tested so far can struggle to focus in low light to a greater degree than most DSLRs do. And, as the result of the way they focus, they don't always see the same benefit from using an AF illuminator as DSLRs do.

  120. Fujifilm 2950 is a good answer by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    In close reading of the original request, I think a DSLR is overkill for the skills and needs (and probably, the budget). I had close to the same requirements as the requester and ended up with a Fujifilm 2950, which is absolutely great. It has a viewfinder (LCD) for when the sun is too bright for the 3" LCD on the back. It will take macros. It has an 18x optical zoom. It uses AA batteries, so you won't have a problem on your trip to China. It is so simple to use that my wife stole it from me and gave me her Canon that I had bought for her Christmas present. And the price of $150 on Amazon is not a budget buster. (And, yes, it does take videos too)

  121. Lumix G3 and S3 IS owner advice by a98-pl · · Score: 1

    I can say from the perspective of using S3 for 4 years and G3 for 1 month and give You some comparison. Get a superzoom is my advice. I had Canon S3 IS and am having Lumix G3, so i can tell You - Canon superzooms macro is superior to the G3. Putting aside the sensor and image quality difference (resolution, sensivity), you can shoot things that lay on the lenses. With G3 i have to be at least 20cm from the object. I hate the way i have to hold G3 - S3 was far better to handle and easier to control via many dedicated buttons. Articulated display is also very helpful with macro (both my cameras have it). Superzooms also cover you sister's travel you've mentioned. Size wise these cameras are the same. Do i regret having G3 instead of another superzoom ? A little, yes. I miss my S3 (it broke down) :(

  122. Olympus EVIL cameras are unbeatable for the price by Lisandro · · Score: 1

    Their "old" models (1-2 years old) E-PL1 or E-PL2 are dirt cheap - the E-PL1 can be found for as little as 400 with an additional zoom lens and its image quality is superb. Their newer E-P3, flagship model, might be too much, but you can get the E-PL3 which is basically the same camera in a different form factor with less contol buttons, OR the E-PM1 which is even more simplified.

    Olympus uses the same sensor on all their EVIL cameras so they're all pretty much paired regarding image quality. Newer models will give you a much faster autofocus, increased shutter speed, newer "art filters" and HD video. All Oly cams are renewed for their great JPEGs right out of the camera, though they all shoot raw if required.

    I've recently bought a E-PM1 with the kit 14-42 lens and a 14-150 zoom lens for about $600. The camera is small (almost pocketable), lightweight and takes stunning pictures, rivaling entry and mid-level DSLRs. It has few buttons and a scroll wheel, but it is very controlable. It's a ridiculosly good bargain - i couldn't be happier.

  123. Lens standards by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    DSLR have incompatible lenses too.

    So choose Micro 4/3 as your mirrorless lens system and bingo you get multiple vendors for lenses, bodies and accessories.

  124. DSLR for beginners by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The Nikon D3100 is a great DSLR for beginners. It has a good selection of auto and pre-programmed settings like good point-and-clicks. It has menus that walk you through setting the camera for certain effects. And of course it has the fully manual settings.
    It's designed to step you up to being an expert.
    I think you can get a beginner's kit (2 basic lenses and body) for about $850.

  125. It's a system, not a camera! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    NEX might have a nice sensor but Sony doesn't make any worthwhile lenses except the Zeiss and it costs 1000 dollars. I also dislike the operating principle where you can't blind press any buttons for immediate effect as their function has to be looked up from the screen.

    So if you're going to buy practically any lenses, there's only one choice, Micro four thirds (well Fuji just announced a new system but it's super expensive). There are at least some lenses for it since there are two manufacturers. (Oly 12 mm F2.0, Pana 14 mm 2.5, Pana 20 mm 1.7, Pana / Leica 25 mm 1.4, Oly 45 mm 1.8, all are sub 1000 dollars.)

    Or then a DSLR.

    If you take photos in anything other than bright daylight, you need lenses with f 2.something aperture and it's even better if they are 1.something.

    Forget megapixels, top ISO, zoom factor blah blah blah, all these generally will make your photos only _worse_, not better. I certainly wouldn't want to be a camera engineer - all the technology for making awesome camera _systems_ has been around for five years but the manufactures only seem to be able to only bring mediocre stuff to market at best. I can imagine how frustrating it is.

    Disclaimer: I have two micro four thirds cameras and four lenses. I use only primes myself, keep my camera with me almost all the time (under the jacket) and shoot often in challenging lighting conditions. An SLR would be too big and a lousy kit zoom would be too dim (and too big as well).

    Too long, DR:
    Forget camera, big aperture is king.

  126. why come here? by uncledrax · · Score: 1

    Wait.. you already know DPReview exists, which is a community full of dedicated photography people.. yet you come to /., which is full of self-ascribed 'geeks' of all walks (read: not dedicated to photography) to ask what camera you should get?

    Seriously.. you already know of a better resource.. why do you need to ask here?

    Vote OP: -1 Redundant.

    --
    ----- The internet has given everyone the ability to have their voice heard equally as loud.. even if they shouldn't be
  127. I would not recommend the Fuji X100 in this case by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I own a Fuji X100 and love it, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone looking for someone not interested in technical details associated with a DSLR. The Fuji X100 is an awesome camera that can produce some really stunning images, but it can also be a quirky and frustrating little bitch. It is not for someone looking for an "automatic" camera.

  128. Powerful Compact by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I've been shooting with an Olympus ZX-1 for the past year. I'm not a professional photographer in any way, but this camera has helped me understand macro shooting, aperature, shutter speed, F stops, and ISO. The image quality can be as good as a DSLR, but it's still a compact size camera. It has all the manual control if you want it or you can set it for point and shoot if you like. It also has the option to screw on different lenses...although the camera's firmware only supports one telephoto lens right now. It's a bit spendy at $500, but it's worth the price in my opinion.

    3rd Party review of the camera:
    http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/OlympusXZ1/

    A sample picture taken by me:
    https://picasaweb.google.com/107447757368097456440/Inveraray_Castle2011#5600078227148903858

  129. And what about Photography?! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    You shouldnt worry about learning the DSLR, you must first learn photography. Understanding photography concepts will help you find a DSLR the best fits your needs.

  130. Several cameras you might want to investigate by MasterOfGoingFaster · · Score: 1

    I'm a pro photographer and sometimes teach. I have a rather different viewpoint than most of the posters, as I get to see what regular folks have trouble with.

    In a nutshell, any camera designed for consumers is likely to be pretty easy to learn. They drive me nuts, because they hide the controls I want to get to. Pro cameras have lots of controls, less automation, and will drive you nuts.

    Frankly, a entry-level dSLR is your best value by far. The Nikon D3100 and D5100 are excellent beginner camera, and can be set for full auto for the rest of your life, yet have plenty of controls should you decide you want to master it. Canon also has really good beginner dSLRs, but I'm not a fan of their low-end lenses.

    MILC - I was excited when they first came out, but with a single exception, I have been quite disappointed. This is a new field that will most likely become dominate, but right now they are as refined as a $99 Android 1.5 tablet. They simply are not very refined, unless you use them full auto - so you would be better off getting a non-IL camera like a Canon G12 (pretty much THE camera that pros buy as a point-and-shoot).

    The exception is the Nikon 1. I thought it was going to be pretty crappy until I used one. Holly crap - it's really fast, really good, lots of fun to shoot and makes impressive photos. I have not used the Sony NEX-7 but Sony controls seem like a non-photographer designed them. And the super thin body means each lens has to be longer by the same amount, so the lenses are pretty large.

    So here's my list of camera you might be happy with. Go to BHphoto and Adorama and see what refurbs they have.

    Compact - Canon S100 or the older S95
    Not-so-compact: Canon G12 or any earlier model, Nikon P7100 (NOT earlier models)
    MILC - Nikon V1, J1 or _maybe_ the Sony NEX 5 or 7 (but these are more expensive than entry-level dSLR).
    Entry Level SLR: Nikon D3000/3100/5000/5100.
    Used SLR - Pretty much any Nikon or Canon dSLR.

    Best bang-for-the-buck: Refurb Nikon D3000 - US$370 @ BH Photo. Get the 35mm f/1.8 AF-S lens (~$200) or the 50mm f/1.8 AF-S lens (~$200) for low light (indoor). These are amazing lenses (close to pro-quality) for not much money.

    I'm sure Canon users will take issues with this, but that is how I see it. I'm sure to get flamed.

    Disclaimer: While I've owned Nikon, Canon, Olympus and Leica, I have developed a strong preference for Nikon. My 40 year old Nikon lens works fine in current model cameras. That means you have a huge market of used Nikon lenses for very little money.

    --
    Place nail here >+
  131. FatPhil the troll runs away from a challenge? LOL! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0