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Ask Slashdot: Ideas For a Geek Remodel?

An anonymous reader writes "What would you do to 'go geek' if you had a major remodel on your hands? My wife and I are re-modeling my in-law's 3000 sq foot single-level house, and we're both very wired, tech-savvy individuals. We will both have offices, as well as TVs in the bedroom and dining room. My question to the community is: What would you do if you had 10-20,000 to spend for this kind of remodel project? What kind of hardware/firmware would you install? I'd love to have a digital 'command center' to run an LCD wall-calendar for the family, and be able to play my PS3 from anywhere in the house (ie, if everyone wants to watch Netflix while I'm in the middle of some Borderlands). What else have geeks done/planned to do? This is a test run for a much, much nicer house down the road, so don't be overly afraid of cost concerns for really great ideas. We will be taking most of the house down to studs, so don't factor demolition into costs. For culinary-minded geeks, I'd love any ideas you have to surprise my wife with cool kitchen gadgets or designs."

247 of 372 comments (clear)

  1. This is the in-law's house right? by suso · · Score: 5, Funny

    Invest in a good voice recognition system and write some regexes that will detect your name in various contexts and alert you if they are leaving their house to come over to yours.

    1. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by ColdWetDog · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Remember Rule 1 in remodels:

      A poorly planned remodel costs three times as much as originally budgeted.
      A well planned remodel only costs twice as much.

      --
      Faster! Faster! Faster would be better!
    2. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by FatdogHaiku · · Score: 3, Funny

      That's pretty accurate, but you forgot to mention that the estimated time for project completion will be about 50% of the actual time needed for project completion...

      --
      You have the right to remain sentient. If you give up the right to remain sentient, you will be elected to public office
    3. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by hardie · · Score: 5, Informative

      One more--if you're doing the work yourself, it will take anywhere from 2 to 10 times as long as a real contractor would take. This is why their pay grade is higher than yours (in contracting...). The quick estimate is to take the contractor's wage (say $60/hour) versus your "skilled" labor at $10: it will take you six times as long.

      Next, add in the effects of only working on weekends (if so), and not being in shape for a full day of serious hustle contractor labor...it takes even longer.

      I am a dedicated do-it-myselfer. I don't mean to discourage, but go into this with eyes open.

      Steve

    4. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by FatdogHaiku · · Score: 3, Funny

      As a former builder I can tell you, we don't do that. Telling someone it will take longer is a great way to lose a bid... and thus never get a chance to even start the job.
      The "Scotty Principle" works only if you have a nice safe government paycheck.

      --
      You have the right to remain sentient. If you give up the right to remain sentient, you will be elected to public office
    5. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by Xacid · · Score: 1

      I was wondering if it was a classy way of saying "we live in her parents' basement?

      Given another post here though - a large chunk of the cost will get eaten up with the usual supplies (paint, flooring, misc repairs, etc). Maybe get a couple wall mounted flat screen TVs or a projector? I don't know honestly - it'd really depend on what you want. I mean...if you're a geek...be geeky and come up with your own projects.

    6. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by geoskd · · Score: 5, Interesting

      As a former builder I can tell you, we don't do that. Telling someone it will take longer is a great way to lose a bid... and thus never get a chance to even start the job. The "Scotty Principle" works only if you have a nice safe government paycheck.

      I have to second that. Home owners never believe contractors who tell them a realistic (much less padded) estimate for how long a project will take. For some reason most homeowners think you can Drywall, Spackle and sand 2000 Square feet in a day...

      I just finished a 2000 square foot renovation project. Complete teardown (to the frame, and in some instances even that had to go). The project took two of us working on it part time: 5 years to complete. The original budget for the project was $75,000. Final expenses ended up around $180,000. We definitely went overkill. Individual thermostat control for each room, Radiant floor heating, and Silent Valance cooling. Whole house Gbit Ether, CATV / phone to every room. Satellite hookup on the roof (even though we don't use it, the box is there and properly wired). 15 New skylights with motorized remote controls. Heat Pump heat and cool with Natural Gas backup. I skipped the Geothermal, but I highly recommend it for the long run. I can still switch the heat pump for a geothermal unit, and will probably do so when the heat pump eventually dies.

      Additional items that are definitely worth the money, but don't have any geek shininess to them: Spray foam insulation. If you have the walls open anyway, put in spray foam. at 7.5 inches thick (exterior wall), the stuff has an R value of around 50, and unlike all other forms of insulation, it wont degrade over time. I have several rooms in my house that you can heat with a candle. My total heating bill is less than the cost of running the household appliances, even in the dead of winter.

      You'll also want to make sure you have 500 AMP mains. This will ensure you have adequate power for everything in the future. Along with this, run at least two separate strings of 20 Amp outlets to every room. You never appreciate how much power modern equipment can draw until you try to run your mini-fridge, microwave, and 1000 watt stereo, only to discover that all the outlets in the house share a single 15 amp breaker... I have 2 20 amp circuits for every room. I can run most of a normal persons household on the power handling ability of half my living room, but I'm pretty sure My house is ready to handle tomorrows do-hickeys. I would also recommend getting some LED accent lighting for common areas like kitchens and baths. This stuff can be very dim, but provide enough light to act as a night light. Very cool to have instead of turning on bright lights to go the bathroom in the middle of the night and waking up the whole house.

      -=Geoskd

      --
      I wish I had a good sig, but all the good ones are copyrighted
    7. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by Spazmania · · Score: 3, Interesting

      500 amp mains? The heck do you plan to do that draws 120 kilowatts? Run 1200 incandescent bulbs?

      --
      Moderating "-1, Disagree" is simple censorship. Have the guts to post your opinion.
    8. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by AvitarX · · Score: 1

      I think the idea was to always be able to run whatever the heck he wanted in whatever the room.

      If the goal is to have 40 amps a room, and extra in the living room, also a heat pump/AC, and likely an electric range (though with a gas line too, likely not), 500 amp is a credible goal. (4 bedroom, living, dining, den, kitchen, bathrooms, depending on the layout, that's credible, you have 9*40 just for that).

      Of course my last house had way less, but it was gas appliances, built in 1918, and had to manage space heater, microwave, hair dryer usage (yes, kitchen and bedroom were at opposite ends of the house on the same circuit, yay).

      --
      Wow, sent an e-mail as suggested when clicking on "use classic" banner, and got a fast response that addressed my msg
    9. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by loufoque · · Score: 2

      Running a jacuzzi in a cold storage room maybe.

    10. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by TubeSteak · · Score: 2

      Additional items that are definitely worth the money, but don't have any geek shininess to them: Spray foam insulation. If you have the walls open anyway, put in spray foam. at 7.5 inches thick (exterior wall), the stuff has an R value of around 50, and unlike all other forms of insulation, it wont degrade over time. I have several rooms in my house that you can heat with a candle. My total heating bill is less than the cost of running the household appliances, even in the dead of winter.

      I'm pretty sure with 7.5 inches of foam, you won't have any problems, but for everyone else:
      Spray foam can lead to moisture & mold problems if not done the right way.

      If you don't have enough foam, it can lead to condensation and mold in the walls.
      Or you can have the right amount of foam, but on the wrong side of a vapor barrier... you get condensation and mold.

      As a related but separate issue, individual rooms that are too tightly sealed will have higher humidity... leading to mold.
      Central air is almost mandatory if you want to seal up your house this tightly, just to circulate the air and prevent mold.
      Old drafty houses don't have this problem, because they breathe (too much), and moisture takes care of itself.

      --
      [Fuck Beta]
      o0t!
    11. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by vthome · · Score: 2

      Here's a counterargument: yes, it'll take you 2 to 10 times as long as "real" contractor would take. However, the quality of the work is defined by *you*, and you *can* afford to take time and utilize a proper process that takes time, instead of a shortcut (just one example: use correct glue instead of "5 minutes curing"). A contractor won't be coming back a day after to finish the job - it'll mean two trips for them, lost time, lost income. You are, however, right there.

      One of my horror stories, with lots of pictures and links (use automated translator): http://xn--80ax0d.blogspot.com/2008/06/blog-post.html

    12. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by ankhank · · Score: 1

      > LED accent lighting.... can be very dim, but provide enough light to act as a night light.
      We used amber -- switched separately. Those (no blue) can be as bright as you want, including reading lights.

      (The health issues are emerging in epidemiology statistics for use of blue-white light at nighttime)
      http://articles.courant.com/2012-06-20/health/hc-light-dangerous-ama-0621-20120620_1_breast-cancer-light-pollution-ama-board-member
      Adverse Health Effects of Nighttime Lighting
      http://www.ama-assn.org/resources/doc/csaph/a12-csaph4-lightpollution-summary.pdf

    13. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by greg_barton · · Score: 1

      d00d, far easier to GPS tag their cars and set up a proximity warning...

    14. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by geoskd · · Score: 1

      500 amp mains? The heck do you plan to do that draws 120 kilowatts? Run 1200 incandescent bulbs?

      50 years ago, I would have been looked at funny for wanting 100 Amp mains. 50 was the common amount. Today, most new installations are done with 200 amp mains. 500 isn't that abnormal, and will not cost much more than 200. If you already have 200, then good enough. If you've got 100's or god forbid, 50s then you might as well go for 500 if you're doing the work anyway.

      -=Geoskd

      --
      I wish I had a good sig, but all the good ones are copyrighted
    15. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 2

      I you really want that much power, you really should have done a three phase service instead-- keeps you at a 400A panel rather than 600/800A construction.

      No fiber though? That is the most useful thing you can provide-- easier to run your 4k display remotely off that than use 2-3 Cat 6 cables.

    16. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by billstewart · · Score: 1

      A one-level house typically doesn't have a basement :-) But actually I'm guessing it's the opposite situation - her mother's moved in with them, and they're getting mom's house ready to sell. If you're an older geek, that's not an uncommon situation, especially if your parents are divorced or one's died.

      --

      Bill Stewart
      New Fast-Compression-only CPR http://preview.tinyurl.com/dy575ks
    17. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by TheStonepedo · · Score: 1

      The parent poster is right.
      Depending on the local electric utility, you might have to have current transformers and a CT meter for a big single-phase service (over 320A around here).
      Unless you have a dedicated transformer with CTs and a meter base far from the house you'll end up with more ugly boxes on the outside wall.

      --
      I'll be your candy shop of infinite deliciousity if you'll be my discotheque of endless rump-shaking.
    18. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by dkf · · Score: 1

      Sounds like you picked a poor contractor. That sucks. It's worth getting to know your neighbors and asking if they've got any recommendations for people to employ (or who to avoid!) so as to get someone who actually knows what they're doing. The best case is if you can get someone who knows what they're doing and takes pride in doing a good job: they might not have the cheapest quote, but they usually do the job right the first time and that's worth a lot.

      It's just the same in software development. You get what you (don't) pay for.

      --
      "Little does he know, but there is no 'I' in 'Idiot'!"
    19. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by Xacid · · Score: 1

      Hah, YES. :)

    20. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by Xacid · · Score: 1

      I was wondering the same too but since they didn't specify one can only assume...

      I know someone who says their parents live when them since he paid for the house. But they still do his laundry and cook him dinner....instead of paying rent.

    21. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by Spazmania · · Score: 1

      200 amp mains I get. Quick-charge the super-capacitors in tomorrow's electric car while taking a shower using the tankless electric hot water heater. I'm just having trouble conceiving of 500 amps for a house smaller than a mansion.

      --
      Moderating "-1, Disagree" is simple censorship. Have the guts to post your opinion.
    22. Re:This is the in-law's house right? by vthome · · Score: 1

      Sounds like you picked a poor contractor.

      That's not an isolated case. In those times of real estate bubble expansion the volume was the king, and nobody gave a damn about quality - there was abundance of customers, individual ones didn't matter. Don't know if this changed yet.

      That sucks. It's worth getting to know your neighbors and asking if they've got any recommendations for people to employ (or who to avoid!) so as to get someone who actually knows what they're doing.

      That doesn't help either - people giving recommendations may be too stupid to give them (oh, and the less they know about the subject matter, the more prone they are to fall victim to smooth operators, and recommend them). Case in point, my neighbor recommended me "an excellent roofer" who, as I later found out, just slapped a lump of concrete onto my roof - which promptly cracked, leaked again and caused even more extensive water damage than original leak. That was the last straw for me. Well, maybe not - maybe it was the "luxury" car dealership that, while replacing the radiator, damaged the fan clutch (failed 4 days later), put a dent in the door, and, while repairing that, broke the center console (someone stepped on it with their knee). Or, maybe it was the body shop which put the swirl pattern on the whole car after fixing the bumper, and somehow managed to kill the transponder key. Or, maybe the bathroom guys that laid the tile with 50mm deviation from vertical on 1.5m of height and tried to convince me that it looked just fine. Which also managed to cut my driveway along with the backerboard.

      The best case is if you can get someone who knows what they're doing and takes pride in doing a good job: they might not have the cheapest quote, but they usually do the job right the first time and that's worth a lot.

      It's just the same in software development. You get what you (don't) pay for.

      No, you get *up to* what you pay for.

  2. Dude. One word... by Frosty+Piss · · Score: 5, Funny

    Star Trek living-room.

    --
    If you want news from today, you have to come back tomorrow.
    1. Re:Dude. One word... by FatdogHaiku · · Score: 1

      I'm with you. Scotty was great at adapting his environment...
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrRzmV46bOM

      --
      You have the right to remain sentient. If you give up the right to remain sentient, you will be elected to public office
    2. Re:Dude. One word... by godrik · · Score: 4, Funny

      some slashdotters need to learn how to count! :)

  3. System under glass by drinkypoo · · Score: 4, Interesting

    The #1 thing I've always wanted to do is put the whole entertainment system behind glass and give it muffled fans and intake filters. I'd really like to eliminate every little bit of noise finally, even the TV has a hum to it. And then there's the dust, which could be all but eliminated by using the right materials for building the enclosure, and the use of the aforementioned filters. I'd give it its own system for control of temp and humidity too, since that's relatively easy if you have all the other parts.

    --
    "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    1. Re:System under glass by TWX · · Score: 4, Interesting

      That's fairly easy to do with a simple closet off to one side with a tinted glass or plexi door. I actually use a 5' telecom cabinet that was designed with some fairly nice wood paneled sides. Friends of ours have a pseudo wine fridge for their large collection of reds in the form of a closet with an AC duct into it. You could combine these, add a baffle to close it off in the winter from the heat, and have such.

      I would suggest multiple Cat6a ethernet cables to each room. Two per wall, and if a wall is particularly long, possibly more sets. I would pull four into each entertainment center, and pull them in behind where each of the kitchen appliances goes, into every curio cabinet, where the laundry is, where the hot water heaters and air conditioning units are, and even to where the doorbell is, though that last one might remain unterminated in the wall. The beautiful thing about four-pair twisted pair wiring is that it can be used for not only ethernet and computers/appliances, but for telephones, intercom systems, security cameras, and all other manner of low voltage devices. Pick a nice closet as the concentration point and be sure to label everything so that you can figure out what it all is later. If you're feeling adventurous, put in conduit for all of this ethernet cable so that it can be upgraded or added to later. Probably 3/4" or bigger given the size of Cat6a. Yes, I know that everyone carries on about wireless, but wired really is the way to go for anything high bandwidth, like when all of the TVs are on and streaming different content at the same time.

      Consider putting single-mode fiber in too. That could be a bit pricier though, and my guess is that it would be less essential than the copper.

      In each room that will have any chance of having an entertainment center, put 2" conduit from the entertainment center location to the rough middle of the ceiling, terminate the conduit in doublegang boxes. That'll be for video signal cables. Or use a triplegang box at the entertainment center end and run eight speaker wires- front left, front center, front right, rear left, rear center, rear right, side left and side right. That way you can use a 4 way, a 5 way, a 6 way, or an 8 way surround sound system without having to change the cabling.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    2. Re:System under glass by peragrin · · Score: 2

      instead of just pulling cat6 through the walls go ahead and install 1/2" or 3/4" conduit to each location where you might want Network or Cable TV. Star everything to a central location.

      That's where your network equipment goes. all of it.

      In the future you will be able to easily replace all the cables to the then current standard.(remember cat5 while still being installed only lasted 15 years before it started to be replaced by other things)

      this way you can replace all wires and equipment as you upgrade relatively painlessly.

      --
      i thought once I was found, but it was only a dream.
    3. Re:System under glass by __aaltlg1547 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Pre-string the unused conduits with pull strings. It's much easier to pull new cable that way.

    4. Re:System under glass by TWX · · Score: 1
      Yeah, I think I had that covered:

      If you're feeling adventurous, put in conduit for all of this ethernet cable so that it can be upgraded or added to later. Probably 3/4" or bigger given the size of Cat6a.

      At some of my sites we've had to route around rat-chewed fiber by using four pair out of a 100 pair cat3 voice cable that ran the phones, and that's at gigabit speeds over about a 150' length. It actually does work and until they get their rat problem solved that's the way we're leaving it. The point of this is that for fairly short runs, one can sometimes find the cabling able to handle more than it's specked for. I suspect that they'll be able to push 40G over Cat6a in lengths of 100' or less, so even if they just hard-install it, they've probably got 30 years of usage before it becomes an issue. Also why I suggested single-mode fiber.

      --
      Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
    5. Re:System under glass by SpankyDaMonkey · · Score: 1

      Single mode will be the total guarantee for bandwidth, but the cost of the optics will always be a lot more expensive than multimode. 50 micron OM3 would probably be sufficient for anything you'll ever need, but even then you have to remember that this is a household environment and unless you can guarantee that you'll keep the dust caps on whenever it's not in use the cable will fail.

      Fibre has it's place in the datacentre where you can keep a relatively clean environment to handle it, for household bandwidth just run cat6a and co-ax. Who cares if it takes 5 minutes instead of 30 seconds to copy a file from your media server when it takes you 2 hours to actually watch it.

    6. Re:System under glass by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      On the other hand, we're talking about fairly short runs, there's no reason not to install conduit. I'd probably even use metal. 3/4 metal is like 2.20 for ten feet. one inch is only five or six bucks. You can probably get it cheaper by going to a big electrical supply, this is just what IMC costs at my local hardware store.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    7. Re:System under glass by aaarrrgggh · · Score: 1

      You have to go to 1"C for anything over 4 Cat6a. Half-inch will only hold one cable.

      I also prefer doing zone boxes for a cross-connect to keep runs from becoming unmanageable.

    8. Re:System under glass by peragrin · · Score: 1

      you don't want IMC you want EMT or even PVC

      Then your talking about $2 per 10 feet.

      --
      i thought once I was found, but it was only a dream.
    9. Re:System under glass by ALeader71 · · Score: 1

      The #1 thing I've always wanted to do is put the whole entertainment system behind glass and give it muffled fans and intake filters. I'd really like to eliminate every little bit of noise finally, even the TV has a hum to it. And then there's the dust, which could be all but eliminated by using the right materials for building the enclosure, and the use of the aforementioned filters. I'd give it its own system for control of temp and humidity too, since that's relatively easy if you have all the other parts.

      If warranties aren't an issue. Break the consoles apart and water cool everything.

      --
      Only the dead have seen the end of War. - Plato
    10. Re:System under glass by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      Er, EMT, that's what I meant.

      I would NEVER, EVER use PVC. I am offended enough that you are required by CODE to use PVC-jacketed wire. PVC releases ridiculous amounts of dioxin and other toxic compounds when it burns and no one should be permitted to use it when constructing a new house.

      Too bad the handle sheared off my shitty harbor freight bender, or I'd use more of it. Gotta get another. I have nowhere to bolt down a pedestal though.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    11. Re:System under glass by coofercat · · Score: 1

      My personal "rule of thumb" is 1 ethernet for every power outlet. Then, make sure you put power outlets in each corner of a room. Since it's usually not worth putting in single outlets, put double. That means at least dual network points in each corner of each room. In our living room, the TV corner has four power outlets, and... you guessed it... 4 ethernets too.

      I'm not sure about kitchens and bathrooms and the like. In the case of kitchens, you could just plumb in some cables and leave them coiled up underneath the units - that way you can put them where you want them later. I put a pair behind where my fridge is (must to my wife's bemusement). I'd put a pair behind every appliance if we had more in there (again - one for every power outlet would probably do it).

      I actually kitted out our current place with Cat5e - it's much easier to squeeze into weird spaces, and you don't need to worry about cable radii and the like. However, if I had my time again, it'd be cat6. Truthfully though, it's still going to be a lot of years before home kit goes above 1Gbps. However you do it, wired is *so* much better than wireless (and I have fairly good wireless).

      In some places I have also plumbed in some 40A 12V cable. I have an old PC power supply in the loft that connects to all the "drops" (and powers the broadband router, the switch and some other bits in the loft). I use these drops for light duty jobs, such as LED lighting (which is homebrew, but actually not dissimilar to bought stuff), and I'm also using it for a Laundrino, some USB charge points, etc. I wouldn't flood wire with this stuff, but maybe decide some useful looking places and put it there. It's a bit niche, but it's a good way to avoid countless wallwarts and such like. It's possible you could solar-back the 12V supply, so it'll cost you nothing to run during the day. You could go really elaborate and have it charge batteries for the night time (another geek project, and because it's all low voltage is a lot less dangerous and less regulated than the mains equivalent). I'd recommend that all your 12V stuff be "optional" though - as it makes selling your house easier that way.

      Something else I considered, but couldn't do because it was way too intrusive for me was to put all high voltage into earthed steel conduits. Some claim that the EMI from mains causes them headaches and nausea. I'm not sure about that, but it sure does get into my electronics tinkering about on the dining room table - and that sometimes gives me a headache. If I could put cables into conduits without having to tear my house to pieces or empty my bank account into the local DIY shop, I would.

      Lastly, do the world (but mostly yourself) a favour and insulate everything you can - walls, floors, pipes (hot and cold), and seal up as many draughts as you can. I'd recommend putting some bathroom sealant or silicon between floorboards, even if you're going to cover up the floor with a carpet or whatever too.

  4. Unrealistic budget by Aranykai · · Score: 5, Insightful

    As a general contractor, assuming you are doing things(paint, flooring, maybe light fixtures and blinds) to the entire 3000 sq ft, your budget that remains purely for tech is going to be approximately zero. Its doubtful that budget would even allow for much of a kitchen/bath update depending on what part of the country you are in.

    --
    If sharing a song makes you a pirate, what do I have to share to be a ninja?
    1. Re:Unrealistic budget by IdolizingStewie · · Score: 5, Insightful

      I have to think that given that budget, what he means is this is what we have left over for tech upgrades. At least I hope that's what he means.

    2. Re:Unrealistic budget by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      As a general contractor, assuming you are doing things(paint, flooring, maybe light fixtures and blinds) to the entire 3000 sq ft, your budget that remains purely for tech is going to be approximately zero. Its doubtful that budget would even allow for much of a kitchen/bath update depending on what part of the country you are in.

      What he said.

      If you take the house down to the studs, you won't complete building it back out again on your budget - at least not in my neighborhood...

      On the other hand, if you somehow meant that you will have ten to twenty thousand _left over_ for tech stuff, then that will be different. Different, but not by that much - that would leave a decent budget, but nothing spectacular.

    3. Re:Unrealistic budget by bob0the0mighty · · Score: 2

      As a general contractor, assuming you are doing things(paint, flooring, maybe light fixtures and blinds) to the entire 3000 sq ft, your budget that remains purely for tech is going to be approximately zero. Its doubtful that budget would even allow for much of a kitchen/bath update depending on what part of the country you are in.

      Not if they do most of it themselves. I've redone the floors, moldings, painted, replaces lights and door hardware for less than 4000 in my 1000 sq ft condo. Once you start talking major appliances it gets much harder to save money, but cutting out labor saves a ton of money and you'll learn some useful skills.

    4. Re:Unrealistic budget by DerekLyons · · Score: 1

      That was my question too... is that budget just for tech? (In which case, it's fairly modest) Or for the entire (to the studs) remodel? (In which case it's ludicrously low, even if they have "free" labor from all their friends.)

      Another thing that bothers me, they say it's their "in-laws" house... Are they not the owners? Are the owners onboard?

    5. Re:Unrealistic budget by NEDHead · · Score: 2

      Pex for plumbing, geothermal & solar for heat/AC & electricity, closed cell spray foam insulation. And don't go with the cheesy looking 2 1/2" door/window trim or hollow core doors.

    6. Re:Unrealistic budget by theshowmecanuck · · Score: 3, Interesting

      It used to be 'This Old House'. Now it's "This Old Mansion". I don't think their renos reflect the average person's home by any measure. You can't base what an average person does to renovate based on that show. I stopped watching when it started getting as ridiculous as it is.

      I have a cousin who renovated two 100+ year old homes for a fraction of what those guys spend. He lived in the first for something like 10 or 12 years. He renovated the second one in the early 90s and still lives there (it is an old farmhouse built in the 1880s or 1890s that is now part of an older subdivision that grew around it). But the heavy work isn't all that can be done to save. For example they found a nice granite counter top and island top that was used in a demonstration kitchen and was close enough to what they needed to only need a bit cut off the end (they looked for something like this, they didn't stumble on it... these are things you do to save money).

      Of course if you aren't capable of using a hammer and saw, then you need a lot of money to spend on a contractor (or if you have a lot of money to spend that you don't need elsewhere, and your priorities dictate you don't want to do it yourself). FWIW, my cousin and his wife did almost all the work themselves, and he is a math teacher. The kicker is that the job was done so well that it was used as a demonstration home by the government as to how to properly renovate a home using energy efficient materials and insulation. The inspectors visited at a number of points during the work to make sure it met the criteria (he had to apply up front and was given a grant to offset some of the cost on successful completion). He did a good job.

      Maybe the OP could volunteer on a couple of Habitat For Humanity projects to get some experience working on homes if they need to learn a bit first. In the meantime watch out for the many contractors who don't know their ass from a hole in the ground or who just like to cut corners and rip off the customer.

      --
      -- I ignore anonymous replies to my comments and postings.
    7. Re:Unrealistic budget by swalve · · Score: 1

      I think the idea is to show off ALL the different things that can be done. You might not do your whole house they way they are, but you learn about the new technologies and materials in order to complete a new basement or kitchen redo.

    8. Re:Unrealistic budget by bigstrat2003 · · Score: 2

      O.o

      I'd love to know what kind of upgrades you have in mind that a $20,000 budget for tech is "modest". In my book, that kind of budget, devoted solely to tech upgrades, is enormous.

      --
      "16MB (fuck off, MiB fascists)" - The Mighty Buzzard
    9. Re:Unrealistic budget by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

      In some areas, you can get free paint, and presumabley primer.

      Paint Exchange

    10. Re:Unrealistic budget by chienandalou · · Score: 1

      What you're talking about is a program of minor repairs, not a renovation.

    11. Re:Unrealistic budget by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      Which is fine if you want each half-wall to be a slightly different tint of blue.

    12. Re:Unrealistic budget by bob0the0mighty · · Score: 1

      Sorry, I neglected to read the last sentence of the article.

    13. Re:Unrealistic budget by DerekLyons · · Score: 1

      Now multiply the square footage (and hence the costs) by three - and you'll see the grandparent's point. The resulting budget for such a bare-bones remodel is already above the $10,000 floor of the questioner's budget even if his labor is 100% free (or "free").

      Now figure in that the questioner is talking going to the bare studs as opposed to just cosmetic work... and you'll see how inadequate his budget (even the ceiling of $20,000) actually is.

    14. Re:Unrealistic budget by flibbajobber · · Score: 2

      Which is fine if you want each half-wall to be a slightly different tint of blue.

      Then you "box" the paint. Pick up sufficient paint to do the whole job, and if they are in several smaller tins you simply mix them all together in one big pail. Return to the smaller tins for convenience (certainly at least one tin, for later touch-ups).

      Even when buying new, if you are obtaining several tins of the supposedly-same shade you should still box them.

    15. Re:Unrealistic budget by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

      I never thought about what the other person said about boxing the paint, but it makes sense.

      What I had in mind was pure white paint, or paint that is of the same brand and colour. At the paint exchange that I went to, the colours were dabbed on the lids, to give you an idea of what you were working with.

      The lesson that I learned the hard way is that you need to look at the dab of paint in different lighting to see what it is. And for goodness sake, read the label for the colour. I thought that I did, but apparently not.

    16. Re:Unrealistic budget by thegarbz · · Score: 1

      Exactly. I'm going through this right now and $20k will get him a new kitchen and a coat of paint for the whole house. ... If he's lucky it may be able to stretch to some new ceramic for the bathroom.

  5. Kitchen by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Faucet over the stove.

    1. Re:Kitchen by Fear+the+Clam · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Also a proper venting range hood. It's amazing how few houses have this simple thing anymore.

    2. Re:Kitchen by trout007 · · Score: 1

      I think it's because houses are built so tight that an exhaust fan doesn't do much anymore. You could install an inlet nearby I guess to help.

      --
      I love Jesus, except for his foreign policy.
    3. Re:Kitchen by chienandalou · · Score: 1

      Yes. Go look at the Gardenweb appliance forum, especially contributions by Kaseki. But kitchen renovation is a whole world to itself.

  6. Ethernet! by DogDude · · Score: 4, Informative

    Lots and lots of Ethernet ports. Wireless is insufficient for the True Geek.

    --
    I don't respond to AC's.
    1. Re:Ethernet! by Auroch · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Lots and lots of Ethernet ports. Wireless is insufficient for the True Geek.

      Well, it's not a bad idea. The wiring can be done in a way that you can thread other things when ethernet is no longer fast enough.

      Though, if you're going to do that - why not send all the cords to a central part in the house, and install a command centre there? You can use it to re-direct connections, spy on internet usage, selectively disable (or re-route) certain wires ...

      --
      Quartz Extreme and Core Image. Are there any other real reasons to spend all that money on generic hardware?
    2. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      Lots or Ethernet ports AND WAPs! Wired may be unnecessary for lots of applications (gbit please) but wireless is unnecessary for lots of applications as well and good reception is a must.

    3. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 2

      I wired my old home (single story built in 68) and my new home (colonial built in 80) with gbit Ethernet. It is not hard....please though... get the 6 foot auger bit to properly drill behind walls.

    4. Re:Ethernet! by Razgorov+Prikazka · · Score: 5, Insightful

      And to add to this, redundant tubes. So if one day you decide to switch to glassfiber, extra speakers, or something, you don't have to break up all the wall's again, just run them through those tubes.
      Or alternatively you could have all the tubes, valves and wiring neatly side by side running in plain sight at the ceiling, color-coded, and labelled , just like a sub-marine. Then have a "command centre" with the whole system, flowrates, temperature's, power-usage per socket a and other measurements at your finger-tips.
      http://image.yaymicro.com/rz_1210x1210/0/499/inside-a-submarine-4993d2.jpg
      Or maybe not if you go for cosy :-)

      --
      rm -rf --no-preserve-root / ...and let /dev/null sort them out...
    5. Re:Ethernet! by vlm · · Score: 1

      And to add to this, redundant tubes. So if one day you decide to switch to glassfiber, extra speakers, or something, you don't have to break up all the wall's again, just run them through those tubes.

      They've got a ranch so just make the basement ceiling accessible (acoustic panels or whatever) and fishing thru uninsulated inside walls is no challenge. Insulated walls are a slight challenge but not too bad.

      If you've got 2 stories then the upper story gets wiring fished thru the attic.

      If you've got 3 stories then I donno. Suffer I guess.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    6. Re:Ethernet! by sandytaru · · Score: 1

      I heartily second this. Our house was built with a central cable box and cable in every bedroom. If I had had a hand in building that, it'd have been Ethernet instead. This is probably one of the cheapest "upgrades" you can do once a house is taken down to stud boards, since the cable is cheap on a spool and the end clamps are a dime apiece in bulk. Then just install a commercial grade router to run DHCP for your dozen net drops.

      --
      Occasionally living proof of the Ballmer peak.
    7. Re:Ethernet! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      If you've got multiple floors and maybe a basement, then it's a must to run a good network backbone between floors, and if you are opening the walls, put in plastic conduit with a strong nylon string looped through it. (cheap and easy to work with and fine for residential.) The loop of string will let you pull other wires or replacement wires through the conduit later without opening up the walls or dealing with fish tape. As suggested above, wireless is great but wired is still where it's at for trouble free serious bandwidth. (You also can't have a good wireless without wires) Basements are great for a network command center because of being cooler than the rest of the house year round, and you rarely need to get at the equipment physically. It's nice to hide all the equipment but remember to consider ventilation. an open basement is no problem here but if you have several boxes in a closet, consider buying a new door that has ventilation grates. They would have them at places where they sell furnaces etc.. Since you are not likely going to live there forever fiber is probably still overkill and that's what the conduit is for. That said copper is very expensive now so fiber as a backbone is getting more cost effective. Use a high grade CAT6 minimum in the walls. You can use a lower grade wire for runs to wall outlets but always remember that once the walls are closed, any upgrade to the wires is a huge PITA In general, you want to put the best you can afford in the walls so you don't need to upgrade later. runs from the walls can be just what you need now.

    8. Re:Ethernet! by chrisxcr1 · · Score: 1

      Can you please explain what you do with the 6 foot auger bit? I'm not being a smartass, I would like to run ethernet to several rooms in my house. Thanks.

    9. Re:Ethernet! by NEDHead · · Score: 1

      depending on the location, a ranch may have no basement. Attic is still an option, although getting to side walls is difficult. Running PVC conduit up (or down) the wall to an accessible location is cheap & easy.

    10. Re:Ethernet! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      If you want to run horizontal in the wall, the bit is flexible to allow you to drill into the studs to run your wire. I got lucky with out house and was able to do the horizontal runs in the floor joists as its an unfinished basement (1/2" hole in each joists I needed to use and pulled the wire). Then a hole in the floor board and up into the 2x4s at the base of the wall and that got me into the wall. A hole where I wanted the box and fished the wires up and out

    11. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      Vertical drilling through the wall footer to run wire up and down.

      For my second floor, I found an air return the serviced one of the rooms up stairs and ran a 1 inch conduit to my attic space. so I could coax and network the rooms and pull new lines easily.

      Horizontal drilling is a little more dangerous if you don't know what is on the other side of a stud (electrical or plumbing).

    12. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      Maybe I am cheap or short sighted, but Cat5e is still best bang for the buck...yeah, you can't do 10 gigabit with 5e but I think 1 gigabit is sufficient for the foreseeable future in a residential setting.

    13. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      speaking of this...are there any devices that can convert OTA signal to an IP signal that can be sent to boxes throughout the house? I want to move to OTA but do not want to deal with RF networking and signal degradation when pulling from one antennae.

    14. Re:Ethernet! by swalve · · Score: 2

      Right. Don't forget to install cat5 and an outlet to a couple of high locations for wireless access points. Just like they used to install outlets above the sink for clocks.

    15. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      Maybe Basic Cable....current cable systems need 2 GHz for headroom.

    16. Re:Ethernet! by swalve · · Score: 1

      There is probably nothing (cheap) that will do it as well as a good amplifier and a well though out system. The key to RF distribution is getting a clean signal to start with, and then amplifying it carefully. Amplifiers don't pull, they push. Use the good kind of RG6 (I forget which is which, RG6 or RG6-U, one has a thicker conductor for less loss).

      The other option is to get something like a media center with a bunch of tuners, or an HD homerun system that tunes off of the RF and distributes the mpeg programs as datastreams. I have a three tuner one that does great. Surprisingly low network utilization when pulling three HD streams.

    17. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      If I want to watch 6 channels simultaneously, do I need a 6 tuner setup like I would need with satellite?

    18. Re:Ethernet! by swalve · · Score: 1

      Yes. The only thing it really does is move the place the tuners are located. Which, if coax is troublesome or if you want a smaller media center machine, it very convenient.

    19. Re:Ethernet! by karnal · · Score: 1

      500mhz per pair, so there is your 2ghz

      --
      Karnal
    20. Re:Ethernet! by corychristison · · Score: 1

      The cost really isn't that much more... having done ethernet/coax in new construction, its usually in the range of 30% more in cost vs Cat5e in 1000ft spools.
      The average home retrofit you can probably get away with 2 boxes... will run you around $300, maybe less if you shop around.

    21. Re:Ethernet! by corychristison · · Score: 1

      Regarding conduit... in residential builds, take a look at Central Vac vacuum tube. Usually wider, with thinner plastic and like 1/10th the price.

      Works a charm and is fine for residential.

    22. Re:Ethernet! by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      That actually sounds like a very efficient system. If you have an open (read: NOT finished as a room) attic just run pipes vertically from the attick down between the wall studs and do your horizontal runs through the rafters.

    23. Re:Ethernet! by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      because, driving 6 TVs via one antennae is pushing it.

    24. Re:Ethernet! by SkimTony · · Score: 1

      I dropped $130 for a 1000' box of Cat6 (with shipping), and another $40(? don't remember offhand) for a 24 port patch panel and wall jacks and plates. I spent a couple weekends, but I have gig-E in every room of my house, and the wiring is capable of 10-Gig when those devices come down in price. For me, not having to worry about wireless junk is totally worth that effort. Not only can I copy files faster, but I can make nachos in my microwave without making my housemate's Netflix stream drop frames!

      It's worth putting in the wires, especially if you're already taking the walls down to studs!

    25. Re:Ethernet! by rerogo · · Score: 1

      Or just cat5. This is what PoE is designed to do.

  7. NEST Thermostat by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

    An other Home Automation tech. It will have meaning to them, save them money, and does not cost too much these days.

  8. Lighting automation by beernutmark · · Score: 4, Interesting

    As soon as we moved into our new house I replaced all the switches with an Insteon system and an ISY-99 controller. I absolutely love it. Being able to turn off all the lights in the house from the bedroom is great. I can put the kids lights on timers, see if any lights are on, have the sprinkler system turn on per water need (connected to weatherbug), setback the thermostat automatically when we leave the house, have a night kitchen run scene, etc....

    A DIY friendly system and the programming language on the ISY is easy to use and quite flexible.

    I have been very happy and wish I had done it on the old house.

    #2 favorite thing (actually probably #1 but it is not really a remodel item) is a whole house Sonos system. The perfect audio sync and ease of listening to anything anywhere in the house is great. I used to be a developer for GiantDisc (which still has the best cataloging system available anywhere) but the Sonos ease of use and perfect audio sync won me over.

    1. Re:Lighting automation by modmans2ndcoming · · Score: 1

      Is there a monthly cost for that system?

    2. Re:Lighting automation by houghi · · Score: 1

      A DIY friendly system and the programming language on the ISY is easy to use and quite flexible.

      DIY friendly? Why not go GPL? http://www.linuxmce.org/

      Some video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2176025602905109829

      OTOH I would not want a home system. All I would want is a central button that I could use to turn the house into 'away' mode. It will turn off everything. Bit like some hotels where you must place your key to be able to urn on the lights.

      Oh and keyless entry, like at the office placed on the height of where I have my wallet, so I can enter the house with my hands full.

      --
      Don't fight for your country, if your country does not fight for you.
  9. A house? NO! by Freshly+Exhumed · · Score: 4, Funny

    Since you've asked for a true geek solution it is necessary to get out of that immobile structure with it's permanent address and accompanying tethers to "the man". Get yourselves into a geek-pimped Class A motorhome so that you can live off the grid as much as possible. A strict observance of anti-surveillance protocols will be a must, including burner phones. Keep them guessing which Wal-Mart you'll camp in next, and have fun wardriving. Field-strip your gear regularly and don't leave anything behind anywhere. Destroy this message. Good luck.

    --
    I deny that I have not avoided attaining the opposite of that which I do not want.
    1. Re:A house? NO! by magic+maverick+ · · Score: 1

      Except this is for the inlaws. Personally I would just rig lots of Ethernet to every room (two or three points in different walls) plus plenty pull lines to every room, make sure that every room has heaps of power points (any three or four metre square room needs at least eight points, two in each corner), and insulate the hell out of the place.

      With power and connections everything else can come later if needed.

      Also, solar on the roof.

      --
      HELP MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HACKED BY AN ILLIBERAL ART STUDENT SET TO DESTROY THE INTERWEBZ!
  10. How about a novel idea... by bleh-of-the-huns · · Score: 3, Insightful

    And let your in-laws decide what they want..

    More to the point, anything too advanced you install, you will have to support...

    --
    I came, I conquered, I coredumped
    1. Re:How about a novel idea... by malakai · · Score: 5, Insightful

      My wife and I are re-modeling my in-law's 3000 sq foot single-level house, and we're both very wired, tech-savvy individuals. We will both have offices, as well as TVs in the bedroom and dining room.

      Am I the only one scratching my head on this? Are they doing this for his in-laws? Why would they both have offices at her parents house? Is it their house now? Why call it her parents? Did they not pay for it?

      Put a digital clock in each room, call it a day, and invest the money in a high yield bond, until you can afford your own home.

    2. Re:How about a novel idea... by sandytaru · · Score: 1

      Perhaps the parents are moving to Florida?

      --
      Occasionally living proof of the Ballmer peak.
    3. Re:How about a novel idea... by PNutts · · Score: 2

      Agreed. "TVs in the bedroom and dining room". My mom had a TV in the bedroom and living room since the early 60s. For the sarcasm challenged, she is not tech savvy. And I don't thin being "wired" by watching movies and playing game consoles is something to brag about. By that definition my seven year old is wired. Definitely a slow Sunday.

    4. Re:How about a novel idea... by paxprobellum · · Score: 1

      I get the impression the in-laws died (or moved) and they are going to be living in their old house. Thus the remodeling.

  11. Re:Big red button by Frosty+Piss · · Score: 1
    --
    If you want news from today, you have to come back tomorrow.
  12. An unusual idea by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    I know that you said this in the abstract, but I'd really avoid having a TV in the dining room if I were you. Not to sound too much like a 1950's stereotype, dining is a social occasion, and dining together is a good time to talk. Have a TV in your office/den and if you're having a lazy lunch etc, take the food there, but try to have a clear space to have dinner together and you'll find it really encourages conversations.

    1. Re:An unusual idea by swalve · · Score: 1

      Having the ability to have a TV in the room makes it a more flexible room. Maybe you don't want to just eat there? Maybe you'd like a nice slideshow of pictures going? Maybe the kids can watch their Mister Rodgers in there while the grownups watch fisting movies in the rumpus room?

    2. Re:An unusual idea by uvajed_ekil · · Score: 1

      I agree, but a lot of people rarely ever actually eat in their dining rooms anyway. In my own opinion, a TV in the bedroom is a bad idea as well, especially if you have other living spaces and are not in a really small apartment or something. Reserving my bedroom for sleep and dressing (and "bedroom stuff") has improved my sleep quality and duration immensely. Without distractions or excuses my body has been conditioned to know it is time to sleep when I hit the sack.

      --
      This is a hacked account, for which the owner can not be held responsible.
    3. Re:An unusual idea by corychristison · · Score: 1

      100% agree.

      I am 23 years old, married with two young kids (3yo and 1-1/2yo). We live in a small house with the dining room practically overlapping the "living room" (as we call it).

      My wifes parents raised her eating off trays, sitting on the couch (sofa, chesterfield - depending where you live) in the living room with the TV blaring. I have never liked the idea of this so I made a rule in my house when my son was born that we turn off the TV if it is on, and eat in the dining area at the table.

      I also imposed this rule when we dine at the inlaws home with the kids (usually every month or so).

  13. Re:Find a worthy cause. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Spending his own money on a home for his family is a waste? I assume you live in an unheated shack.

  14. Get the Nest by The+Dancing+Panda · · Score: 1

    Get this thing for a thermostat. It's kinda awesome.

    1. Re:Get the Nest by vthome · · Score: 1

      Get this thing for a thermostat. It's kinda awesome.

      Careful with that axe, Eugene: http://diy-zoning.blogspot.com/search/label/Nest

      It's not quite what it's cracked up to be.

      DISCLAIMER: I'm running the open source project that is a direct competition to Nest. Well, 'xcept the profit, of course :)

  15. Networked thermostat by RR · · Score: 1

    Especially if your house is big enough to require more than one air conditioning system, it's convenient to have them on a network. Not necessarily so you can control them from the Internet, but so you can control them all from one place and turn them off when nobody's at home, to save energy.

    Of course, once you have them under digital control, you could add things like schedules and remote monitoring.

    --
    Have a nice time.
  16. Comms and power by Gordonjcp · · Score: 3, Insightful

    An adequate supply of CAT5 (or CAT6, really, it's getting cheap enough) and mains sockets in every room.

    I'd also look at ecological heat and power measures - wind and solar power, solid-fuel stove and a ground-source heat pump.

    1. Re:Comms and power by m1ndcrash · · Score: 1

      I second that!

    2. Re:Comms and power by Richard_J_N · · Score: 1

      *Shielded* wiring: especially the Cat6. We just networked our house, and we installed:
        - lots of Cat5E
        - a "lutron" lighting control system
        - electronic curtains.

      The lutron generates a lot of RFI, especially at mid-level dimming. The interference can sometimes make the curtains jitter, as if we had a ghost!
      Our eventual solution was to change the curtain switch so that it powered down the system when it wasn't supposed to move.

      Build a comms-rack, expect that area to be noisy, try to do something sensible with the resulting heat.

      [Lastly, don't use LED lighting; use halogen. It's just better to live with. ]

    3. Re:Comms and power by swalve · · Score: 1

      [Lastly, don't use LED lighting; use halogen. It's just better to live with. ]

      Or at least, learn how the lights look and use appropriate lighting for the use. LEDs in the dining room might not be romantic, but LEDs in the hard to reach foyer pendant seems like a no brainer. But you can get LED lights with all kinds of color temperatures, so choose wisely based on what's available rather than superstition.

    4. Re:Comms and power by Richard_J_N · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Interestingly, different people perceive these things differently. I personally find that the flicker caused by LEDs (especially at 50Hz, without capacitors) is really annoying.

      But the real problem is that one can't really use "colour temperature" to get a good understanding of lighting quality. You have to look at the distribution too.

      Colour temperature is essentially a "weighted average" of the emission spectrum. But white LEDs have a strongly bi-modal spectrum (basically blue + yellow), which looks nothing like the smooth blackbody spectrum from tungsten/tungsten-halogen. So you can match colour temperature, but have a widely different spectrum.

      Also, while the human eye has only 3 separate types of sensor (roughly "R,G,B"), with their own response curves, the resonances of the dyes in clothing, paint, or skin pigments have their own resonances too. The result is that, even if you can't distinguish LED and tungsten light from each other (when looking straight at the bulb), you can tell the difference in the scene that is illuminated.

  17. TV in the dining room? by Guano_Jim · · Score: 5, Insightful

    It's a matter of personal taste, of course, but I'd keep the TV out of the dining room and spend the money on something else. You need a place to get away from information overload.

    We've declared our dining room to be a screen-free zone-- no TV's, laptops, iPads, smartphones, whatever. It's the one room in the house where we sit, eat, and converse as a family.

    I find the half hour or so when people aren't checking Facebook, tweeting, playing minecraft, checking their calendar, etc to be pretty refreshing. It's amazing what you can find out when you ask a kid how their day was.

    1. Re:TV in the dining room? by stymy · · Score: 1

      It's not that unusual an idea. Here in Argentina, no one has a TV in the living or dining room, it is considered to be of poor taste.

    2. Re:TV in the dining room? by Shimbo · · Score: 1

      Here in Argentina, no one has a TV in the living or dining room, it is considered to be of poor taste.

      I guess land prices in Argentina must be cheap. if everyone has a house that big...

  18. Re:Big red button by craigminah · · Score: 1

    You mean like Elmer Fudd's house (FF to 6:09)?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MMkiq8Kxis

  19. Kitchen advice. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Layout and work flow are key to a great kitchen. Fridges that have cat5 and lcd screens are essentially toys. Spend your money on quality cookware and utensils that are commercial grade.
    Think about little things like;
    how do I cool stuff down efficiently,
    what is the best convection equipment that I can afford.
    Where do I rinse vegetables?
    Is there filtered water and how well can I clean oversized pots. A pot sink is a better alternative to a double shallow!
    Get a small commercial salamander oven that can top brown ...not a cheap toaster oven.

    Don't spend your money on toys!

    Above all set it up so that more than one person can work in the kitchen at a time without having to worry too much about stabbing each other! Your wife will love you for that much more that all the geek toys you can stuff into a kitchen now a days.

    Sure put a sit down bar away from the prep area where you can have a laptop or whatever and put sound in the kitchen but by and large all this is secondary to a well thought out design and quality equipment!

    I am a cook and know what really matters in food preparation.

    1. Re:Kitchen advice. by godrik · · Score: 2

      I totally aggree with that.

      I only cook as a hobbyist, and clearly kitchens tend to be poorly designed. One typically does not need any "toys" in there. At most leave an area where you could put a tablet in a position confortable enough to read while cooking, everything else is pretty much useless.

      A common problem I see in kitchens is that there is no good way to evacuate the steam/smoke/fog that comes out of the cooking. Put a damn window in the kitchen or a really good ventilation system!

      If you put high cabinets, think that when opened you'll bang your head if it opens like a door. Something that slides in is probably better.

      I want to emphasize again the sink, pick the largest thing you will clean (most likely a soup pot, or an over grill) and make sure it fits in the sink.

      I often run into the problem that there is no large surface I can safely cook on. When preparing a pie dough (for instance), you will need space to lay it on and spread it (not sure what is the proper english word for that). If your kitchen does not have an appropriate space making that dough will become a pain.

      Often in cooking, having a small FOO, means having a useless FOO (useless you also have a large version). My freezer is small and it makes it almost useless for cooking purposes. I can not easily fit a large bowl in there to keep mousse or cream really cold.

    2. Re:Kitchen advice. by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

      I want to add that he should get a high quality dishwasher, which should be characterized by a lot of features that gives him detailed control, as well as full automatiion, so that it fits almost all his needs.

      I find that an ordinary dishwasher can do well with prewashing almost all dishes and pots. The only question is how much scrubbing needs to be done. I try to put everything in the dishwasher for the prewash, and then check it just before the end of the prewash. By then, most of the debris has been rinsed off. Anything that remains is easy to remove. The remainder of the prewash will remove the remainder of the debris, which leaves the wash cycle to focus on just the residues.

      I find that most people like to srub and prewash by hand, before putting in the dishwasher, but this wastes time, because it is harder for people to prewash, than it is for the machine to do it. Leaving the dishwasher is not ideal, either, because it might need a lot of detergent, and the dishwasher can still leave debris.

      Also, if you are buying new dishes, then try to buy ordinary dishes that can easily be replaced, but make sure that they fit well in the new dishwasher. Yes, go and put some in the demonstration model. The easier it is to load the dishes, then faster your chores will be.

      Currently, I find our dishes to be very inconvenient to load, because of shape and depth. It's like fussing around with a jigsaw puzzle.

      Big kitchen tools are great, but having the smallest kitchen tools that you can get away with, without being inconvenienced is good too. The smaller that your dishes and tools are, the easier it is for you to fit in the dishwasher, and the easier it is for your dishwasher to clean them.

      Flatter and "squarer" are probably best for plates and bowl, within reason.

    3. Re:Kitchen advice. by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

      Yes, I agree with you. I think that more things need to be done by foot pedal. You could open doors as well.

      Another cool thing would be a faucet that allows you to adjust the temperature separately from the amount of the water. 1 knob would adjust the hot water. 1 would adjust the cold. The third would adjust the mixed water. It would be better to have a pedal instead of the third.

      If anybody has information of how to create and sell these, then I'd love to know.

    4. Re:Kitchen advice. by MMC+Monster · · Score: 1

      Just built a custom home a year ago. Some thoughts:

      1 - Two kitchens. The main kitchen opens up into the living area and breakfast nook. This is your show kitchen, so make it pretty. Accent lights, cabinetry that goes up to the ceiling, etc. The second kitchen is a small room with a door (preferentially one that opens up into the mud room near the main kitchen. The second kitchen is where all the real cooking happens (and the real mess). This is where you're cooking the fish and making all that smelly stuff that you don't want to smell in the family room.

      2 - 3-4 ethernet ports near each TV. One to go to the back of the TV, the other(s) to a blu ray player and whatever other connected devices need internet access. (If the TV is wall-mounted, one should be by the TV and the rest wherever you place the receiver. Likely in a media cabinet.) Cat6 everywhere is cheap and likely good enough for the next decade.

      3 - If you are having custom built media cabinets make sure they have adequate (preferably passive) ventilation.

      4 - No TV/computer connections in the kitchen, dining room, breakfast nook, etc. If the wife wants to look up a recipe on the internet, that's what a wifi-enabled tablet is for.

      5 - Invest in a home control system. We use Control4. It controls our thermostats, a few lights, the security system, music, etc.

      6 - Set up a network spot in an out-of-the-way place (basement corner in our case) where you don't care about a little noise or excess heat. This is where the ethernet switch, servers, modem, NAS, etc go.

      7. Spend money on kitchen hardware, including higher end faucet fixtures, stove, fridge, etc. Feel the difference between a high end faucet and the stuff you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes. There really is a difference. (Whether it's worth the extra cost is up to you.)

      8. If you are renovating a bathroom as well, make sure there is a seat in the shower, with a hand-held shower head next to it. Never know when you're going to be injured.

      9. In-wall and in-ceiling speakers everywhere. Some of the internet companies have great hardware (we used Aperion). In areas where you're likely going to watch movies/TV, wire in-wall to a media cabinet and a wire from the media cabinet to the subwoofer. If you're going to do whole-house audio, consult with an expect on how to get the wiring correct for exactly what you're planning on doing.

      10. If you want ceiling fans with or without built-in lights, make sure you wire the wall outlets appropriately If the electrician doesn't know what you're planning, you'll end up having to use remote controls mounted on the wall to turn the fan controls on. Give the electrician the wall controls you want to control the fans with before he wires the fans.

      11. Conduits everywhere (pretty much everyone says this, and it's absolutely true). Have them run to the basement or attic so you have access to them later on.

      --
      Help! I'm a slashdot refugee.
    5. Re:Kitchen advice. by MMC+Monster · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Another thing:

      12. Take photos of all the walls right before the drywall goes up. This is your x-ray vision in case you need to pound nails (or snake lines, or whatever) later on.

      --
      Help! I'm a slashdot refugee.
    6. Re:Kitchen advice. by Misagon · · Score: 1

      I agree completely with this.

      Also, look at doors and drawers and different solutions for different areas. A slide-out drawer for pots and pans is much more convenient than a cupboard under the sink that you would have to crouch down to.

      Make sure that the doors and drawers have handles that your wife can use without breaking a nail.

      Doors that open upwards on a spring-loaded hinge are dangerous. Don't even think about having them unless the cupboard is very very high up.

      All doors should have dampeners.

      Make sure you have power outlets where you will need them.

      --
      "We mustn't be caught by surprise by our own advancing technology" -- Aldous Huxley
    7. Re:Kitchen advice. by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      Contrastly we have one of the cheapest dish washers on the market and other than caked-on stuff we rarely have to run anything through twice. And we NEVER pre-wash dishes.

    8. Re:Kitchen advice. by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      Not only this, but a well designed kitchen with quality appliances will GREATLY increase your resale value. Figure out how long you plan to stay in the house and buy appliances that will outlive that by 5-10 years at least. It may cost you more now, but if you can afford it you will get a nice "retirement" package when you move out in the form of a very nice resale value.

    9. Re:Kitchen advice. by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      spread it (not sure what is the proper english word for that)

      The term is "roll it out", if you're talking about a pie crust. The device used to roll out a crust (traditionally wooden, also available in metal or silicone these days) is called a "rolling pin".

    10. Re:Kitchen advice. by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      If you want something that varies both temperature and flow, why not just get a standard single-handle faucet? They're nearly universal in US kitchens.

    11. Re:Kitchen advice. by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      Damn, that's brilliant.

    12. Re:Kitchen advice. by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      handles that your wife can use without breaking a nail

      Also, ones that stick out a bit more prevent her rings from scratching the surface behind the handle. Take a look at the glass doors at your nearest department store - the bars on most commercial doors are very close to the glass and there is a haze a of scratches just behind the common grasp point.

    13. Re:Kitchen advice. by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

      We have those here in Canada, but the problem is that it is hard to remember exactly where to put the lever. For our home, for some reason, I have to fiddle around a bit.

    14. Re:Kitchen advice. by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

      I wonder if that is because of the type of food that you have. I get the impression that some of our food seems to be the problem. Do you eat a lot of shreded meat? I suspect that shreded meat cakes on more than just vegetarian food.

    15. Re:Kitchen advice. by toddestan · · Score: 1

      I kind of doubt it. For some people, it would work, but the vast majority of future buyers will take one look at the kitchen, see the stainless steel appliances, and go "Ugh, that's so 2000's". You'd be better off what whatever is fashionable at the time, even if they are cheap crap.

    16. Re:Kitchen advice. by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      I never said "futuristic ugly crap", I said good quality which is a completly different metric. There are very good ovens, countertops, cabinets and ranges that aren't covered in stainless steel.

    17. Re:Kitchen advice. by DarwinSurvivor · · Score: 1

      Well, we do tend to cook our red meat in cast iron (which does not go in the dishwasher), so that could be part of it.

    18. Re:Kitchen advice. by rvw · · Score: 1

      Another thing:

      12. Take photos of all the walls right before the drywall goes up. This is your x-ray vision in case you need to pound nails (or snake lines, or whatever) later on.

      And keep a rule that electricity lines and water pipes only go up or down vertically to floor or ceiling from wall sockets.

    19. Re:Kitchen advice. by SkimTony · · Score: 1

      That's a great idea. I wish I'd had that opportunity! I went to fish some wires in the walls of my house and discovered a diagonal board between the studs. Made for an interesting series of holes.

  20. Don't put TVs in the bedroom by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    The research is pretty clear that it's one of the worst things you can do for your sleeping habits.

  21. Re:Hidden conduits to allow rewiring by Fear+the+Clam · · Score: 2, Funny

    And if you want to eavesdrop on anyone all you have to do is put your ear to the tube.

  22. Outlets! by yotto · · Score: 3, Insightful

    Power outlets every 3 feet.
    Network outlets every wall.
    Cable and phone in every room.
    10 years from now they'll call you and say "Remember when I said I didn't think I needed a power outlet in the closet? Oh man thanks for insisting!"

    1. Re:Outlets! by magic+maverick+ · · Score: 2

      Yeah, this.

      Except that you don't need phone cables, 'cause the ethernet can deal with it. Oh, and lots of pull lines. Like heaps.

      And solar on the roof. And insulation. Wait I already said that. I should have read the thread before commenting...

      --
      HELP MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HACKED BY AN ILLIBERAL ART STUDENT SET TO DESTROY THE INTERWEBZ!
    2. Re:Outlets! by swalve · · Score: 2

      If the house is of a moderate size, you can save money on wiring by installing a couple of sub-panels. Instead of homerunning 5000 feet of Romex down to a panel with 80 breakers, put a couple of panels in different ends of the house. Even just locating the panel in a centralized location rather than the corner where the service comes in will save wire.

      And while it might seem psychotic and anal-retentive, label the outlets just like they do in commercial buildings. I'm sure there is a way to do it that will blend in with the decor and not look commercial.

    3. Re:Outlets! by Kookus · · Score: 1

      Wires are like dinosaurs. They were really fricken awesome once, but now there's plenty other cools things to use.

      The only thing I can think of for needing a wire anymore is still video, as I don't think wireless video has matured enough.

    4. Re:Outlets! by RobertLTux · · Score: 1

      Lord yes even if you do a series of color dots or something make sure you know which powerpoint goes to which breaker.

      oh btw a bit of a tip when you have GFI outlets if one "pops" then the everything down circuit goes also so you may want to map the order of your outlets (ie on branch 14 its North Side of %room% run clockwise then North of %nextroom% ...)

      --
      Any person using FTFY or editing my postings agrees to a US$50.00 charge
    5. Re:Outlets! by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      This is just off the top of my head, but why not use standard labeling tape and put the label either on the back of the wall plate or on the inside of the gang box?

    6. Re:Outlets! by captjc · · Score: 1

      Wireless will not be able to compete with wired any time soon, be it on speed or distance. Wireless is great if you have a couple of computers in a small suburban or rural home. If you have more than a few systems (which between PCs, laptops, tablets, game consoles, Smart TVs, and whathaveyou can add up quickly), live in a bigger house (especially with thick walls), or live in an more congested neighborhood saturated with wifi access points then having a wired network hooked to anything that needs a constant connection with any decent speed is a must. Wireless is great in many cases but make no mistake, wired networking is nowhere near dead.

      --
      Slow Down Cowboy! It's been 1 hour, 47 minutes since you last successfully posted a comment
    7. Re:Outlets! by j2.718ff · · Score: 1

      Wires are like dinosaurs. They were really fricken awesome once, but now there's plenty other cools things to use.

      The only thing I can think of for needing a wire anymore is still video, as I don't think wireless video has matured enough.

      Without wires, where do you get your electricity? I don't believe Tesla ever got around to electrifying the stratosphere to give us all wireless power.

    8. Re:Outlets! by Kookus · · Score: 1

      Yep, I gut my house on a biennium basis to replace my electrical wires.
      The ones running up to my house on the outside also go through the same transformation.

      We're talking about communication. The research and money is in wireless. Give it time and ethernet will be just a novelty.

  23. "a major remodel on your hands?" by hack++slash · · Score: 1

    Bionic Fingers! Awesome!

    --
    To do something right, you often have to roll up your sleeves and get busy.
  24. good luck by vlm · · Score: 1, Flamebait

    My wife and I are re-modeling my in-law's 3000 sq foot single-level house

    We will be taking most of the house down to studs

    Do you mean the modern american "royal we" where it means you're contracting a citizen who subcontracts to another citizen who hires illegals to do all the labor at 50% to 100% profit markup each step and you expect to do nothing more strenuous than sign a contract, or you're literally doing the old school "we" as in we're the only people doing work inside the house? This has a huge impact on planning.

    we're both very wired, tech-savvy individuals

    So doing the grunt work (if not all the work, depending on nanny state building codes) of the electrical work MIGHT be in your grasp, but bare stud drywall work is frankly pretty easy to half ass yet very hard to make look good / perfect.

    Plumbing is hard because you need to use a $150 wrench, once, to install some weird gasket that you can't buy at a big box store. Hire that out along with drywall.

    TVs in the bedroom and dining room

    Yer doin it wrong, if the most interesting thing to happen in those rooms comes out of a TV speaker. If you "have to" eat in front of the tube, sit in the living room like a good couch potatoe. I used to use a TV in the bedroom WRT mid-sleep storm warning siren evaluations, but the phone seems to have taken over that duty.

    What would you do if you had 10-20,000 to spend for this kind of remodel project?

    Hmm bare walls and a hair over $3/sq foot. Even the cheapest home depot "basement grade tile" costs over half that, and still leaves you with bare stud walls. There has to be a dropped zero in there somewhere?

    If you just meant tech, and you insist on new/top of the line only, you won't be able to do much with only $10K.

    I think you're in way over your head.

    What else have geeks done/planned to do?

    You'll be overwhelmed if you do it all at once. The best system is built by accretion, just like a black hole. Way over a decade I started with a nice linux based fileserver... well, add a RS-232 interface and some more software and I've got some home automation, boils down to the worlds most elaborate NTP time disciplined, astronomically aware (sunrise/sunset) timer system. Then add a PCI video capture card and some more software and I've got mythtv. It turns out that cheapie whole house audio (aka just put a speaker in every room with elaborate parallel/series interconnections) is cheap and easy to install, and I've already got a fileserver full of content so buy some speakers and rolls of wire and... Repeat a zillion times adding all kinds of weird stuff and you eventually get my house. I can't imagine doing it at the same time, even worse all at the same time as ripping the house down to the studs.

    "Adding tech" is best managed as a permanent process, not an isolated single huge project.

    For culinary-minded geeks, I'd love any ideas you have to surprise my wife with cool kitchen gadgets or designs.

    This I don't even understand, and I like to experiment with cooking. More convenient storage than a house your size "should" have. A walk in pantry is not out of line plus a closet for appliances / things. Every AC power outlet is a home run 15 amp ckt, no daisy chaining such that running the slow cooker, the lights, and the microwave at the same time trip a breaker. If you really wanted you could blow your entire remodel budget on one (exotic) industrial-grade appliance like a combi-oven. I've often wished for one of those 10 horsepower restaurant dishwashers with a 7 minute cycle time (as opposed to my 150 or so minute 1/2 hp dishwasher).

    Speaking of lights most kitchens are designed by interior decorators who apparently are very good at being trendy but eat exclusively at trendy urban restaurants. Be very careful as its

    --
    "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    1. Re:good luck by dj245 · · Score: 1

      The one thing I would do if I had the house down to studs would be CAT6 drops everywhere and speaker wire everywhere with binding post connections. CAT6 is incredibly versatile and the speaker wire is useful too. I have been adding drops as needed in my current house, but fishing wire through the walls is a huge pain. A lot of walls are basically inaccessible since they have insulation in them and fishing wire through THAT is almost impossible.

      --
      Even those who arrange and design shrubberies are under considerable economic stress at this period in history.
    2. Re:good luck by DerekLyons · · Score: 3, Insightful

      For culinary-minded geeks, I'd love any ideas you have to surprise my wife with cool kitchen gadgets or designs.

      This I don't even understand, and I like to experiment with cooking.

      Me too... Most culinary minded geeks I know are decidely *not* fans of unique gadgets/designs. They're creatures of pattern and habit when it comes to hardware.
       
      The culinary geek world is unlike the rest of the geek world - we don't generally seek the latest and creations because the foundations of the world's cuisines are generally old, tried, and true. Gadgets and new shinies mark the dilettante and the fashion victim, not the culinary geek.

    3. Re:good luck by rogueippacket · · Score: 1

      Or in the words of Alton Brown, "No uni-taskers!"
      I say this every time someone wants to buy me a new kitchen gadget. If the gadget only does one thing (roast a turkey, peel an apple, toast bread, etc.) I don't want it.

    4. Re:good luck by geoskd · · Score: 3, Informative

      Plumbing is hard because you need to use a $150 wrench, once, to install some weird gasket that you can't buy at a big box store. Hire that out along with drywall.

      Do not: I repeat: Do not hire out your plumbing. The vast majority of plumbers are doing one of three things:

      (1) Installing old school copper: This is extremely expensive and time consuming. Plumbers will charge 4 to 5 times what the installation should cost, in materials costs alone. In addition, copper takes about 10 times as long to install as modern PEX, even for a professional.

      (2) Installing everything with Sharkbite (tm), or similar connections using home depot quality PEX. This will work just fine, but the contractor will charge you for the connectors +50% markup, and those connectors are unreasonably expensive as it is.

      (3) Install everything with crimp style (as seen at home depot) connections. The trouble with these connections is that they eventually fail. It may take 20 years, but what does the plumber care, in 20 years he wont be around to have to fix it.

      The best way to get the job done these days is to use "expansion style" PEX connectors. These connectors will last longer than the building, and are very inexpensive compared to the Sharkbite (tm) variety. The biggest issue with expansion style connectors is the tool needed to make the connections. The cheapest route will cost about $150, and requires a fair amount of upper body strength. For a single install, this is probably your best bet. Even including the cost of the tool, it will still be much cheaper than a plumber, and will only cost you about 16 hours to finish the rough plumb-in of two bathrooms and a kitchen. (I can do it in 8 to 10 hours, but I do this all the time.) For the more hard-core, you can get an electric version of the expansion tool for about $450. This will cut your install time by 40%, and save your arms. If you plan on doing this to more than one house, the tool may be worth the money. Using the motorized tool, you can do the install in about 10 hours (I can do it in 6). Lastly, just having the tool is not the end of it. Do your homework. There is a right way and a wrong way to use the tools. If you do it right, you will have connections that will outlive you by a wide margin. Doing it the wrong way, and your connections will leak from day one. Ask your local plumbing supply warehouse for more information.

      -=Geoskd

      --
      I wish I had a good sig, but all the good ones are copyrighted
    5. Re:good luck by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      I mostly agree to the parent's statement, but there are exceptions: I once saw a tap on tv with led-lights in it that makes the water stream blue if the water is cold and red if the water is hot. Both cool and practical.

    6. Re:good luck by ThatsMyNick · · Score: 1

      I love uni-taskers. They do one thing, and do it well. If it is does something that I usually do well, I will buy it. I also like order in my kitchen, lot of things to arrange all the uni-taskers.

    7. Re:good luck by maestroX · · Score: 1

      kitchenaid

    8. Re:good luck by pete6677 · · Score: 1

      I have never seen such a long comment with so little useful information (except maybe a GNAA post). Other than trying to make yourself feel smart, why did you waste time posting this crap?

  25. Kitchen Upgrades and Wiring by cinghiale · · Score: 1

    If your budget allows, go with an in-wall convection oven and a really good vent hood over a gas cook top with cast iron grates. If you got any money left, use conduit and junction boxes instead of just long wire runs to make future changes cleaner.

  26. Conduit, everywhere. by ka9dgx · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I'd put some big conduit and wiring ducts across the house, with drops in every room. This way you can pull whatever cables, fiber, etc. you need.

    Why are you remodeling someone elses house?

    1. Re:Conduit, everywhere. by berglh · · Score: 2

      This is a good idea, it's quite common in Australian houses now, to rotate your fire blocks/noggins between the wall studs 90 degrees so that the width which normally blocks all cable drops in the cavity becomes the height of the Noggin. This leaves a nice cable sized cap between the dry wall/plasterboard and room exterior to allow you to painlessly drop cables anywhere, in any room from the ceiling. I was worried about structural integrity, so far I haven't seen any houses with this arrangement been blown over by a big bad wolf - it is probably wise to check your building code whether this is a legal wall configuration in you area.

      It is horribly convenient to have access to drop a cable anywhere you want, most conduit is ugly on the outside of the wall in my opinion. However, if routed inside the wall, the conduit would be a last layer of defense for any mice/rats crawling around inside your house against chewing your cables, if this is a concern in your area - in most places in Australia this is not so much of a concern. I do think some good cross house conduits/trays in the ceiling is a good idea for cable routing and management, but have never implemented this myself as yet.

      http://www.hometips.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/wall-construction.gif?84cd58 - just rotate the fire blocks 90 degrees and you'll be thanking yourself that you thought ahead when you are trying to find room for the child/family member that you didn't plan for.

    2. Re:Conduit, everywhere. by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      If you rotate them 90 degrees, don't they cease to be fire blocks of any sort?

  27. Submerged computer by menno_h · · Score: 1

    Build a mineral oil-cooled PC, put it in a transparent container, embed it in the wall and put an aquarium in front of it. It'll look as if the fish are swimming in the same liquid as the computer.

    --
    AccountKiller
  28. Conduit by PPH · · Score: 2

    By the time you get your CAT 6 cable pulled, it will be obsolete and you'll need CAT 7. Or 8. Who knows?

    Put in wall boxes, pull boxes and some 3/4" conduit runs to a central panel/server location. Then, whatever happens, you can yank the old stuff out and put new stuff in.

    For the kitchen, put in a couple of extra 20 Amp circuits (two general purpose circuits are required by code).

    For the rest of the house, separate the lighting and outlets on separate circuits. Code (and cheap electricians) allow these to be fed off the same branch circuit. Bu there's nothing more annoying than plugging in something and having the lights go out as well.

    Extra lighting in the master bedroom if you like to share videos with other couples. Some of this amateur stuff is pretty poorly lit.

    --
    Have gnu, will travel.
  29. Re:Less is more. by vlm · · Score: 1

    I'd run coax, ethernet, and phone line everywhere,

    I did that, and now no longer have a use for coax or phone line.

    I'd double run any ethernet line so if one cable breaks you switch to alternate. I only need 1 working line to plug a switch into at the point of use.

    --
    "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
  30. If you open the walls... by bmajik · · Score: 1

    ... then put smurf tube _everywhere_. you don't know what wiring you'll actually want where, but putting in the tube now will be a huge help. When I had all the walls in my house open, I made sure to put smurf tube runs, pull boxes, and low-voltage outlet boxes everywhere I thought I could possible want _something_. Years later, I'm still going back and actually running wire through them, on a strictly as-needed basis. It's nice to be able to run a new cat5e run directly from my basement rack to a 2nd floor bedroom in an hour or two, without cutting anything besides the cat5 cable :)

    That said, you won't be able to actually do much for 20k.

    It's hard to do a kitchen remodel for 20k unless you do gobs of work by yourself. The first one I did was probably 9k, and I did the tearout, the flooring, electrical, sheetrock, cabinet installs, plumbing, etc, all myself. I got the base model cabinetry from home depot.

    I also wouldn't go crazy with TVs. I have 2 fixed displays; 1 in a media room where I can chill out and play video games, or where my wife and I occasionally watch something. there's a big projection screen in there. Then there's a smaller flat panel upstairs in a common area that my kids will use to watch curious George, super-why, etc. We don't have any conventional TV service; I wouldn't bother getting one.

    We still have POTS, and POTS handsets and wiring in the house (but its star-wired with cat5e, and rnu back to our patch panel, so we can change to ip if we like)

    Honestly wouldn't wire for it at this point; if you're both geeks, I'd put an asterisk box in the wiring closet and then use VOIP handsets in the house. We mostly use DECT handsets where like 3-4 wireless handsets go through one wired base.

    My wife watches "her" video content on a laptop. Tablets, laptops, etc are much more convenient for media consumption than fixed devices. My wife watches lots of junk tv via streaming services, while sitting in the bath tub. A tv in our bedroom would be of little use, but might contribute to bad habits...

    One thing you might want to do is building a wiring closet and server closet. Make your end-user devices as quiet/fanless/small as possible.

    Another thing that will be relevant in a house of your size is having at least one computer or device setup with a "guest "account in a common/public area of the house. Make sure it has access to a good black and white printer. Invariably, your guests will need to login, print their boarding passes, etc, before you kick them out after a few days :)

    --
    My opinions are my own, and do not necessarily represent those of my employer.
  31. Tighter focus... by HockeyPuck · · Score: 1

    $10-20k is your budget?

    Seems pretty small unless you're doing all your own labor or your own your own contracting company...

    A kitchen remodel alone is going to run you between 10-20k... Since this is your inlaws house, why not ask them what they want in it? Do they want to play PS3 in any room of the house? Doubt it. Maybe they want a up to date kitchen with high end appliances? Or they want to rip out all the carpet and put in new hardwood floors with new molding and remove all the linoleum in favor of tile in the bathrooms and kitchen... and then paint the whole interior to refresh the walls/ceiling to go along with the new floors. Or install new 2xpane windows....

    All sorts of things that add immediate and long lasting value to the house. If your inlaws sell it one day, telling someone "there's an dust free glass enclosed entertainment center" only appeals to a tiny percentage of buyers, however 2xpane windows and a up to date kitchen appeals to almost everyone.

    Also, why are you asking /. what your inlaws want instead of them?

    1. Re:Tighter focus... by Overzeetop · · Score: 1

      A contractor-grade kitchen remodel is going to run $30k if you do everything yourselves. A nice kitchen remodel is more like a $50k+ project. You can do a kitchen remodel for under $20k if you don't count any labor, but it means very pedestrian appliances and disposable-grade cabinets.

      I think if their budget is $20k, stripping the house to studs is going to result in an unfinished house that is unsaleable. I'd be willing to bet they drop close to $1000 in roll-off rental and tipping fees at the landfill, and at least a couple hundred more in permits.

      I presumed they no owned their in-laws home (who are in a retirement center, or beyond). I'd go with finishes and a good wifi system. If there's money, a mini-split HVAC for the two offices. Residential heating systems are notoriously poorly balanced, and getting your office just the right temperature for work is critical for efficiency. A Mitsubishi Mr. Slim or similar will set them back $4000-5000, but will pay huge dividends in terms of comfort and efficiency.

      --
      Is it just my observation, or are there way too many stupid people in the world?
    2. Re:Tighter focus... by geoskd · · Score: 1

      countertops and cabinets alone is going to run you between 10-20k

      FTFY.

      -=Geoskd

      --
      I wish I had a good sig, but all the good ones are copyrighted
  32. room-by-room zoning by chrispitude · · Score: 2

    This is out of your remodel budget, but it's a possibility for future new construction. Consider room-by-room zoning:

    http://www.getemme.com/room-by-room/index.php

    This system places a small, discrete wireless thermostat in every room, which provides two advantages:

    * Each room can respond separately to room-specific demands, eliminating hot and cold spots in the house.
    * Different rooms can have different temperature programs.

    We have the older version of this system (MyTemp) and we love it. It's not cheap, but I only paid the difference between the builder's standard 2-zone system and this system. Some highlights from our own use:

    * To simplify scheduling, you can group rooms together to form named zones. For example, we group the master bedroom/bathroom/closet into "Master Suite". Most of the downstairs is grouped into "Living Space".

    * We set our toddler's room to more moderate temperatures than our room, since we like it very cold at night.

    * Guests can set the guest bedroom to whatever they like. When the room is not used, we simply press the button on the wall controller to put it into "Saver" mode. This runs the room on an alternate program you define with wider temperature swings.

    * Any room can be put into/out of Saver mode at any time.

    * The temperature of any room can be overridden temporary with arrow buttons on the wall controller. Just came in from mowing the lawn and you're hot and sweaty? Crank the temperature down in the family room and kick back! It changes the temperature of that room only, leaving other rooms in the house/zone undisturbed.

    * Each room/zone is completely programmable. For example, our bedroom is on a 7-day schedule (it's always relaxed during the day), but the toddler's room is on a 5/2-day schedule (relaxed during weekdays because he's at daycare, conditioned during weekend days because he takes naps).

    * I work from home. My home office always ran hot due to the two computers. With this system, it now directs air conditioning to the office as needed, which has been fantastic. No more fiddling with vents!

    * You can bring up temperature graphs for each room that allow you to see the temperature history and heat/AC calls from the room. I can actually see the air-conditioning demand follow the sun on a room-by-room basis as the sun swings around from the east to the south to the west. All rooms stay perfectly comfortable, regardless of whether the blinds are opened or closed, etc.

    * For special rooms like dedicated home theater rooms or workout rooms, this system is a huge advantage. Anyone with a home theater can tell you how warm they can get after two hours with the projector, A/V equipment, and a bunch of dead bodies. With Emme, the room will demand as much air-conditioning as it needs. If you don't use the room often, put it in Saver mode as you walk out to save a few bucks.

    * House-sized HVAC units have minimum airflow requirements. When only one or a few rooms are calling, the system conditions as many additional rooms as needed to meet the minimum airflow requirements of your HVAC unit, using a pressure sensor in the plenum to account for any flow differences from room to room. It's smart enough to choose the rooms that are furthest from their comfort points, which would have been the rooms that would have called next anyway.

    * To save energy, the system can circulate air instead of running your heating/cooling. This is possible because it knows the temperature of every room. For example, in the summer, it can circulate air from your cooler rooms on your first floor to warmer rooms on your second floor, without kicking on the AC compressor.

    This may all sound complicated, but it's not. The complexity is hidden from you. You simply create your zones and program temperatures over time, and the system does the rest. The best advertising for this system is the user manual:

    http://www.getemme.com/pdf/Emme-Room-by-Room-User-Manual-WEB-4.5.pdf

    Feel free to ask me any questions; I'd be happy to share our experiences.

  33. Hide it all, keep it practical by Overzeetop · · Score: 1

    One thing I can't stand is in-your-face electronics. Save that for the Epcot Center exploration exhibits.

    With 10-20k - even doing it all yourself - you're really just looking at finishes. New floor covering, new paint. If you're handy, bathrooms might be an inexpensive target with new vanities/fixtures/toilet (hint:Toto). The kitchen is pretty much out. Look at your lighting - is it sufficient? Is it economical? Is is pleasing? Look at colors, window treatments, and accessories.

    This is where you will live and, possibly, work. TVs are nice, but don't go overboard. Make it efficient - that's the true geek. Examine how your day workflow is, and install all the things you need so you don't waste time on the mundane stuff. Coffee, meal prep, snacks/entertainment gear, phone system (if hardwire, then distribution matters, if you're a cell-only house, check your signal and look into an amplifier to guarantee strong signal that taxes your mobile phones as little as possible).

    On the tech side, you can look into hardwiring for data to the offices, but that's it - and it's not even critical to be honest. Go wireless, but be smart about it. 5GHz and a coordinated distribution system is key. A server closet would be nice. Oh - whatever you buy for your main interface and router, get two identical models. $200 sounds expensive until your network goes down due to a hardware failure. A distributed system is going to have setup configurations you don't want to have to re-create from scratch with new hardware.

    If you just have 20k to buy "stuff" and the house is already remodeled, you can start thinking about a heavy duty server system with data/video/etc distribution. If you took my advice above and put in a balls-up wireless system, you're way ahead of the curve for a connected house. Fishing new wire sucks. Installing conduit is even harder. Accept the fact that nothing you are using now will work in 5 years, and build your system so it doesn't pigeon hole you into a single system. If you keep your file server and media server distinct, it will give you the option of upgrading gracefully or in parallel.

    Of course, this ignores what you really should be doing with your $20k, which is: do the things that will pay dividends first. Look at your energy efficiency (heat pump?, gas?), inexpensive but energy efficient replacement windows, heat pump based hot water heater, efficient but pleasing lighting, proper ventilation, easily upgraded insulation areas, etc..

    --
    Is it just my observation, or are there way too many stupid people in the world?
  34. Energy efficiency by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

    Unless your inlaws are rich they will appreciate you creating an energy efficient house. You could think about solar of some kind, but more fundamentally if you are want things like LCD screens as photo frames you need to get the most efficient ones you can.

    --
    const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
    SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
  35. What could be nicer? by hawguy · · Score: 1

    If you're doing a down-to-studs remodel of a 3,000 square foot house, what kind of house are you planning for your "much, much nicer house down the road"?

    I live in a 65 year old house that's less than half the size that went through a similar remodel - including completely rewiring and replumbing the house to get rid of the old knob-and-tube wiring and galvanized steel plumbing, and I can't imagine what else I'd want in a house, so I'm curious what someone sees as a "much, much nicer" house than a completely remodeled house. Wouldn't it be more cost effective to pay a bit more now to do a nicer remodel and get the house you want?

    Oh, and we did wire for data: coax + cat6 to the livingroom and master bedroom, cat6 to each bedroom (2 boxes on opposite walls) and to kitchen/dining room... all pulled back to the second bedroom closet where the patch panel, and ethernet switch live. Conduit from each outlet box runs to the crawlspace so I can easily fish in new cables as needed.) A pair of PoE powered Wifi nodes in the attic provide good coverage throughout the house and the back deck.

    It turns out that except for the livingroom for the cable, most of the wiring goes unused - too annoying to plug/unplug the laptop from the ethernet jack everytime I want to move to another room, so I almost always use Wifi. The full-sized computer in the den is hardwired, but it's rarely used. My Wifi network speed is faster than my internet connection, so Wifi bandwidth doesn't matter except for when the laptops run backups, which are scheduled to run at night.

    1. Re:What could be nicer? by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      I'm happy that you enjoy living in under 1500 sf, but most people like having room. My wife and I live in 1800 sf and while it's nice it's not exactly spacious - we could use a second office and more closet space.

      Unrelated geek tip: become a gardener. In addition to the enjoyment of watching things grow, you will learn what a well-maintained property looks like. With a little experience, you can easily tell the difference between a yard that is properly taken care of year in and year out, and one that has been spruced up for quick sale. Tells you a lot about what you can expect from the house.

  36. This is a Public Service Announcement by zill · · Score: 1

    (FF to 6:09)

    Next time, pause the video, right click on it, and select "Copy video URL at current time".

    If you're using a FOSS flash player and it doesn't have that feature then just manually add "#t=XXXs" at the end of the URL.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MMkiq8Kxis#t=365s

    1. Re:This is a Public Service Announcement by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      Your thing doesn't work if you have flashblock installed. Posting the time is the fool proof way to point out that part of the video. You can't make the assumption that everyone's setup is just like yours.

    2. Re:This is a Public Service Announcement by nedlohs · · Score: 1

      Anybody with flashblock can hopefully convert a number in seconds to one in minutes and seconds. If no they are using a computer of some sort, I'm sure it can manage.

  37. Pneumatic Tubes! by justfred · · Score: 1

    Every house needs a serious series of tubes.

    Think of it - you could send a sandwich from the kitchen to the den. You could send the mail from the office to the front door. Route laundry and garbage to their appropriate destinations.

    Why send electrons when you can send atoms?

    (Example, there are lots of others:)
    http://aerocom-usa.com/profitability/where_to_install_pneumatic_tube_systems.shtml

    1. Re:Pneumatic Tubes! by AmazingRuss · · Score: 2

      These tubes also make great carnival rides for smaller pets.

  38. First recommendation: get more money by Overzeetop · · Score: 1

    For a 3000SF house, stripped to the studs, I'd recommend about $50/SF minimum for a rebuild if you're going to do it all yourselves. Maybe $80-100 if you have someone else doing the heavy lifting.

    --
    Is it just my observation, or are there way too many stupid people in the world?
  39. Re:Hidden conduits to allow rewiring by NEDHead · · Score: 1

    Mine does :)

  40. RG6, wallplates and your cable/satellite company by Watcher07 · · Score: 1

    Coming from a background in broadband, I'd agree with ka9dgx. Run conduit through an attic or crawl space. Each wall plate would ideally have two coax connections, an ethernet port and usb charging port unless the wall plate is specifically for a device (i.e. wall mounted tv). Having two coax ports allows an easy way to have both satellite and cable (for the internet) without dealing with a specialty splitter. Also, only activate the cable jacks you'll be using and if you are just going to activate a bunch, make sure to have a bi-directional amp (not regular house amp) or else your transmit will end up too high from too many splitters (if you're going with cable). If you do end up going with a cable company for tv or internet, have them send a tech out and let them check the system and show them where you're putting jacks and what the overall plan is so they can help give you on site ideas for streamlining it.

  41. Unrealistic budget by gravis777 · · Score: 1

    Seriously, have you priced stuff at all? Unless you are going with cheap, Walmart brand televisions, your TVs alone can eat your budget.

    DON'T TAKE IT DOWN TO THE STUDS!!! I was in a house for 10 years that needed some repair work. The first thing I did was take off the wood paneling in one of the rooms almost as soon as I moved in. Bad mistake - I bought the sheetrock, but hanging it was another issue. Then you have to texture. Oh, and you will probably have to put in new insullation. Took me forever to get it done, and it looked ugly because I really had no clue what I was doing.

    With that kind of budget, you might be able to do the bathroom, and maybe the kitchen. If the bathroom is small (like the majority of American bathrooms), you may want to expand by knocking out a hall closet or something. Just do a bit of planning. Pay someone to do sheetrocking, then put up tile, tile the floors, replace shower and tub with something really nice, replace toilet (actually go to Home Depot and look at different toilets. It may sound something trivial, but might as well make "having to go" more enjoyable, and a nice toilet you can get out for under $100 on), replace sinks and vanity, replace mirrors, maybe wallpaper if the wife is into it.

    That right there is probably about $5-10k, depending on how nice you want to go (you could probably get out for under $1000, but the parts you will be replacing with are probably not going to look as nice as what is already there).

    Once you are FINISHED, then you can do the second bathroom.

    Replace counter tops, cabinets and appliances in the kitchen. Maybe add an island and replace floor.

    Your budget is gone. Forget televisions, forget bedrooms, forget the living room, forget wiring the house.

    Seriously, watch a few television shows about people who flip houses. Especially try to catch a few episodes about first time flippers. People on those shows can easily sink $50k-$100k on a house half your size - and that doesn't include tech stuff.

  42. My dream kitchen... by sandytaru · · Score: 2

    Touch screen computer built into the wall with Internet access. Bookmarks to recipe websites, Food network, and a calendar/planning system for keeping track of food inventories. A small printer to print out labels for foods. Also, iTunes or Pandora, and a good 5.1 speaker system set up throughout the kitchen.

    More counter space than any one person could ever possibly need - or so you'd think. Two stoves, two ovens (one convection.) A central island with a bar on one side. A large dry pantry. An entire wall cabinet dedicated to storing cooking dishes. Two refrigerators. A deep freezer. A microwave oven that doesn't have an LCD interface left over from 1985. (Good lord that pisses me off. $350 for an over-the-stove microwave, and the display still only handles 8 characters at a time. What the hell, Maytag?!)

    Proper track lighting overhead, and recessed lighting under the top cabinets. One counter taken up by a giant chopping block cutting board. Good tile floor, not linoleum. A comfortable rug in front of the main stove. A proper tile backsplash behind the sink. That new no-touch on-off faucet I've been seen commercials for that basically predicts whether you need the water on by your body language.

    --
    Occasionally living proof of the Ballmer peak.
    1. Re:My dream kitchen... by dkf · · Score: 1

      Touch screen computer built into the wall with Internet access. Bookmarks to recipe websites, Food network, and a calendar/planning system for keeping track of food inventories. A small printer to print out labels for foods.

      That's going to be "interesting" when it comes to the problem of keeping things clean, especially if you're frying anything. You'll be fighting a constant battle with airborne grease microdroplets settling out on everything.

      But apart from that, nice choices. You're missing one vital thing though: masses of cupboards and drawers. Being able to put things away neatly is such a good thing. Also consider the benefits of having some shallow-depth cupboards: you can't get as much in them, but you can search them much more easily. (My favorite is the spice cupboard: a whole floor-to-ceiling job filled with spices and dried herbs, sitting there and tempting you to make awesomely tasty meals...)

      --
      "Little does he know, but there is no 'I' in 'Idiot'!"
    2. Re:My dream kitchen... by sandytaru · · Score: 1

      Well, that's why it's a dream kitchen. My actual kitchen is 8x8 and I do well enough in it, but only because my computer desk is about five feet away.

      --
      Occasionally living proof of the Ballmer peak.
  43. Wainscotting and conduit by MickLinux · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I would have easily removable wainscotting for access to the walls, and lots of conduit allowing whatever room-to-room connections I might need later. I'd model it on hospital setups, but go cheaper:I'd use luann paneling for the wainscotting, for example.

    --
    Correct Horse Battery Staple: 72 bits of entropy. Enter "Correct H" into google. When it generates the phrase, that's
  44. All that..... and then create a haunted house by jjh37997 · · Score: 1

    Wire the shit out of the place.... you can never have too many power outlets, ethernet jacks, speaker ports, or coaxial cable outlets. Run everything you can through conduit so you can future-proof the place and run additional wire when needed. Don't daisy-chain the outlets if you can help it. Run everything to a central utility room that's large and well ventilated enough to hold all of your backend computer shit. Don't just shove it into a closet, give yourself some room to move.

    Put in recessed lights and speakers in the ceiling for all the rooms and put in multiple zones for different zoom designs and activity patterns.

    Think about where you'll spend most of your time and put the house's thermostat there so you'll be most comfortable. If your furnace/AC can handle zones make sure you think hard about the best placement of the other temperature units.

    Buy an LCD and place it behind two-way glass in the bathroom so you can get a pop-up display of the weather or watch local news in the morning while you brush your teeth or pee.

    Hide speakers and video cameras in the walls/floors and connect them to a hidden computer that broadcasts out to the world on a concealed SSID. Then, when you move prank the new owners and make them think the place is haunted. Don't do anything overt, let subtlety be your friend. Creaking floorboards, a door closing, quiet footsteps that follow along and move from speaker to speaker, and ultrasonics for the pets. Record everything if you are feeling really illegal about it and then stitch it all together and post your movie on YouTube.

  45. LED Light Strips by Ramley · · Score: 2

    Don't forget about lighting, and some of the REALLY cool things you can do with LED's.

    For about $25 (US), you can pick up 16 foot reels of bright LED RGB lights (30-60 LED's/meter). They come with remotes, so you can control color, brightness, effects, etc.

    I've done some very cool access lighting in strategic places around the house, and it's pretty awesome.

    The low-hanging-fruit, of course would be in the kitchen with under-cabinet lighting. It's even cheaper with one-color (white) LED's... It took about 30 minutes to "install", and the ROI is huge. Especially with the wife.

  46. 3000 sq ft?! by Gothmolly · · Score: 1

    If you live in a mansion like this, pay someone to put the system in.

    --
    I want to delete my account but Slashdot doesn't allow it.
    1. Re:3000 sq ft?! by O('_')O_Bush · · Score: 1

      Depends on the area. Here in N. Va, 3000 sq feet is a small house, smaller than the smallest you can buy in some areas. A moderate is around 4500 sq feet, and a big house is over 7000sq feet.

      --
      while(1) attack(People.Sandy);
    2. Re:3000 sq ft?! by swalve · · Score: 1

      That's not a mansion, that's a normal house with a large family room hanging off one side. My mom lives in a fairly recent house, and all of the mechanicals are in a fairly small "shaft" of space. All the rooms sort of hang off of it in various directions. Very efficient to build and maintain, and the additional space like family rooms and dining rooms was very cheap to add on because there isn't anything really in it. Just the construction cost really. So a 1200 sq foot house can turn into a 3000 sq foot house easily and cheaply.

    3. Re:3000 sq ft?! by godrik · · Score: 1

      3000 sq feet for a house is not that much. I live in an appartment of 900sq feet with wife and one kid and a 3 times bigger house would not appear huge, maybe just large. I could easily double or triple the kitchen, a twice or three time bigger living rooms would be good. I rely on external washer and dryer but having a room for that would be very helpful. The bathroom is small, having a bigger one or just a toilet would be helpful.

      If you have a house, you might want a garage area to park a car or keep gardening tools.

      If you have 2 or 3 kids, that grows as well.

  47. Since you are going down to the studs. by orlanz · · Score: 1

    Make sure that you read up on all the building codes or talk to an inspector for the below.

    1) A 2-3" conduit from top to bottom. Possibly two depending on the number of wires you will be running which depends on the number of rooms on each floor. Don't forget to fire stop and steel plate the floor/ceiling studs.
    2) 1" electrical (grey PVC) conduit in each room, including garage. Top floor goes to attic, and bottom floors go to basement. If no basement, all conduits go to attic. Same regs as #1
    3) Drop a HDMI over ethernet where ever you are going to put a TV or system. All lead back to the command center so you can do & change what links to what there.
    4) Put in a magnetic circuit trip on each window and door. Most homes already come with this (security system) but you can better segment the house (ie: a circuit for sets of living room windows). Of course leading back to command center.
    5) Wire in motion sensors in rooms and hallways (cameras are a bit creepy). Again, this may already be done for you. Wireless is fine too.
    6) In wall speakers in every room (hey, you said you have 10k plus) (I haven't done these)
    7) In wall mics (I haven't done these)
    8) Camera for front and back door.
    9) UPS (w/ 2x cheap car batteries) at the command center.
    10) Tablet on fridge for kitchen inventory & movies

    1-3 & 8-10 are obvious. 4 & 5 you want to hook up to an Arduino or Raspberry Pi. It can email you a SMS when your phone (you) isn't in the house and someone trips one. 6 & 7 if you want to do voice commands with playlists or your TV(s).

    I think the above pretty much summarize the demands on your command center.

  48. Plan you lighting before you start by jonsmirl · · Score: 1

    Let me repeat that, plan you lighting before you start. Again - plan you lighting before you start. If your electrician wings it and makes mistakes it is almost impossible to fix.

    For example high end lighting in a dining room might have:
    1) chandelier
    2) halogen cans over table
    3) halogen cans around sides of room
    4) art light aimable cans
    5) cans over buffet furniture.
    6) tray lighting in the ceiling

    Do you really want six dimmers in the wall of the dining room? No. What you want to do is remote all of those dimmers and have a single keypad at each opening into the room. Remoting a dimmer means putting it down by the electrical panel or in an attic. The home automation feature of the keypads then controls the remote dimmers. Doing this at wiring install time is almost free.

    Repeat this in each room of the house. Think about art lights, fireplace sconces, in-cabinet lights, switched outlets, in-floor outlets in the center of rooms. Plan all of this before you let your electrician start. If you plan all of this correctly you'll never end up with 8-gang rows of dimmers. Well designed lighting is an easy way to make a major improvement to the feel of the house.

    Hide the thermostats in closets and use in-wall remote temperature sensors. Disable the temp sensor inside of the hidden thermostat.

    1. Re:Plan you lighting before you start by jonsmirl · · Score: 1

      And i should not use copy paste with a spelling error in it.

  49. no drywall by SeanBlader · · Score: 1

    I would get a replacement for drywall thats handily removable for future upgrades. I was thinking that stainless steel would make good wall paneling held up with magnets, then when you need to upgrade or move wiring later you could easily pull it off the wall.

  50. Value: maintain, don't decrease, increase. by shagie · · Score: 1
    I've got my own house and I was thinking of all the neat tech stuff I could do in it. A custom thermostat system and other home automation type things... a handheld (ipod touch, andorid, what have you with custom software) instead of switches and the like in each room.

    Then I realized what this would do to the value of the house. All the software would be written by me. This would mean that any buyer would either: a) rip it out because they don't understand it and need to replace it (thus lowering the value of the house) or b) need to do a code audit on everything I wrote to avoid any back doors (costing money and thus lowering the value of the house) and possibly c) be calling me for support when something breaks.

    Me putting in the time and money to do such a level of home automation would ultimately make the house worth significantly less. And thus I came up with the order of things that are done in the house: Maintain the current value of the house (if there is something that needs to be done that is otherwise causing the value of the house to decrease (leaky basement walls) do that). Don't do anything that will decrease the value of the house (crazy personalized custom stuff that only has value to me is out). Increase the value of the house - a standard zone system with a Nest in each room is cheaper, likely more efficient, and improves the value of the house over a custom system.

    So unless you are never thinking of selling this house in your lifetime, avoid doing anything crazy customized to you unless you are going to accept that ultimately another buyer is going to rip it out and replace it - and factor in the ripping it out and replacing it into the resale value. Not everyone out there is a geek.

  51. Wireless by PNutts · · Score: 1

    I wired my house with 30 pin cables and now I have to rip it out and pull 8 pin cables.

    1. Re:Wireless by Kookus · · Score: 1

      Or you could just use 8 pins of the 30 you have and leave it in the wall.

  52. Raspberry Pis Everywhere! by epp_b · · Score: 1

    If you're handy with programming, you can do a lot with a few Raspberry Pis.

    Currently, I've got a Pi setup as a dedicated video player for the big LCD in the den. It's running OpenELEC and networked via a WRT54g running dd-wrt (which doubles as a wireless range extender), so it can play media from any other networked device in the house. Plays full 1080p HD wirelessly and flawlessly.

    I have thought about doing something similar to what you mention with the family calendars. I still have some details to work out, but I envision all of our smartphones and a tablet in the kitchen on a quick-release wall mount synchronized using an exchange-like system. I've already got a web server running at home with a dynamic DNS service, so the synchronization could could conceivably be location-agnostic.

    The Raspberry Pi's GPIO makes cheap home automation only a small leap of imagination.

    As for the PS3, sorry, I'm not a gamer, so I don't know what the options are in that regard.

    1. Re:Raspberry Pis Everywhere! by godrik · · Score: 1

      The raspberry pi is a good hacking learning device. But I am afraid it won't last for long. It will probably die fast. It has only be out for a few month and there are already reports of failure linked to power fluctuations.

  53. Do something like this by Archimonde · · Score: 1

    I did it at my own house. It doesn't cost nothing extra, it is just your imagination on what to do with your bricks.

    And one day I hope this is going to be visible from space;)

    http://imgur.com/a/rkQpO

    --
    Trolls are like broken clocks. They show the truth two times a day. The rest of the day they talk nonsense.
  54. Secret passage by c++0xFF · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Since you're going down to the studs anyway, find some place to put in a simple secret passageway. You know, for the kids and grandkids.

    Look for dead spaces in the walls. It can be as simple as going from one closet to another. Try to connect to the crawlspace, maybe.

    1. Re:Secret passage by j2.718ff · · Score: 1

      Since you're going down to the studs anyway, find some place to put in a simple secret passageway. You know, for the kids and grandkids.

      Look for dead spaces in the walls. It can be as simple as going from one closet to another. Try to connect to the crawlspace, maybe.

      Someone, please mod this up! This is a fantastic idea!

  55. Half life of tech by Dzimas · · Score: 1

    Honestly, don't bother. Technology changes so quickly that anything you install now will look daft in 3 years, let alone a decade. My 5-year old house has hard wired Ethernet running into every room, but it simply isn't used because everything has wifi. Ditto for power drops - the family tends to wander around the house with tablets or notebooks, so we don't need a handful of extra plug ins for printers, massive monitors, and whirring server behemoths. And thank god we didn't install a flat screen monitor or two anywhere, because we'd be digging under-spec'd old plasma screens out of the wall and trying to figure out how to install something a bit larger.

  56. It's all about the enabling infrastructure. by __aaltlg1547 · · Score: 1

    The key thing to have installed in the house is flexible hardware:

    • Things a modern house should have:
    • a photovoltaic electric system capable of powering your house or at least its essential elements
    • passive solar heating design to minimize your heating bills
    • a heat pump system with a large underground reservoir for storing your waste heat in the summer and using it to help heat your house in the winter
    • ethernet wiring or fiber to every room. Better yet: to every electric outlet
    • a centralized rack that serves as a distribution point for your routers, switches and servers
    • most of your light switches should be wired to relays rather than direct controls, and the relays controls should go back to
      • a server cabinet or rack to
      • antenna connectors on your roof
      • your heating control system

    This way you can reconfigure and upgrade your house easily, with most work easily accomplished at your control distribution rack without digging into walls after the initial installation.

  57. Infrastructure by sjbe · · Score: 1

    What would you do to 'go geek' if you had a major remodel on your hands?

    Infrastructure. Get as much future-proof wiring in the walls as you can. Cat 6 or Cat 7, hdmi, speaker wire, coax, fiber optic, power, etc. Multiple drops, whole house surge protection, wiring closets, cooling ducts, conduit for future runs. Here's the thing, you don't know what technology you are going to have available down the road and whatever you buy now is going to obsolete in just a few years. But the equipment is is easy to change. The tough bit is to get the wiring in the walls. Worry about infrastructure and the rest will be MUCH easier down the road.

  58. Two Words: by larry+bagina · · Score: 1

    Sex Dungeon. Trust me, you'll appreciate it more than a TV in every room.

    --
    Do you even lift?

    These aren't the 'roids you're looking for.

  59. Automated windows, integrated with climate control by swillden · · Score: 1

    This is an idea I've been wanting to find a way to implement for years, so this post is as much to see if anyone will give me suggestions on how to do it as to share the idea.

    Where I live, even in the hottest part of the summer there is typically a portion of the night where the outside temperature is lower than the indoor temperature, and during spring and fall there are lots of times when achieving a more comfortable indoor temperature is as simple as opening the windows... except that opening the windows requires me to notice when I should open them, when I should close them, and to actually go and do both things. And even when I do, I never do them at the optimal times.

    So, I want an automated house climate control system that has control over the heat, A/C and can also operate the windows automatically. Couple that with a control system that knows the required comfort curve (cooler at night, don't care during the day when no one is home, tighter comfort range in the morning and evening) and perhaps even knows not only current interior and exterior temperatures but also the expected outside temperatures over the next 24 hours (Internet weather reports can provide hourly predictions) and the thermal mass of the home and the rate at which it can be heated/cooled by the furnace, A/C and windows, and the result could conceivably be extremely efficient even with a home which isn't really optimized for energy efficiency.

    Oh, weather reports would also be useful for figuring out when the system should close the window because of rain or wind.

    I have a thermostat with Wifi connectivity and which provides a RESTful API for monitoring state and changing current settings, and I've begun fiddling with trying to build my control system. Now if only I could incorporate the windows...

    --
    Note to ACs: I usually delete AC replies without reading them. If you want to talk to me, log in.
  60. Various Options by moniker127 · · Score: 1

    A house should be comfortable first.
    Here are some things I suggest

    -Double paned windows, soundproofing the outside walls (or possibly the walls around your offices/bedroom)
    -Air filtration, humidity, and temperature control (vastly underrated for overall comfortabiliy of house)
    -Heated toilet seats (trust me, you won't ever want to go back)

    If all your comfort needs are already met, then here are my "fun" suggestions:

    -Swimming pool
    -Theatre room with projector, lazyboys, badass sound system of some sort
    -Computer Closet with extender cables for monitor / peripherals routed out of it (no noise from fans is nice)

    I wouldn't hardwire any cables, but having a conduit system is nice. Once you have it installed between your offices and computer closet, you can just pull the cables you need with a fish tape.

  61. You're going to need more money by uvajed_ekil · · Score: 1

    You'll need a lot more money or an entirely new game plan. You're talking "major" remodel, ripping the house apart "down to the studs," you want to make it tech geeky, and you plan on spending 10k-20k? You'll be lucky to get out of the kitchen spending less than 20k. Unless you can do drywall and trim, flooring, electrical, plumbing, paint and decorating, and everything else yourself, and already have an arsenal of tools at your disposal, you can't even touch every room in a 3000 sq. ft. house for 20k.

    For 10k, you can probably redo one bathroom and do some cheap cosmetic stuff. There is no way you can come even close to gutting a house that size, AND add anything electronic, for even twice what you are talking about. I've put 15k into my own [smaller] house in the last 3+ years, done every bit of work myself and been pretty frugal, and it has been nowhere near a major or complete remodel.

    Wait, do you have a time machine large enough to transport materials and laborers from 1965?

    --
    This is a hacked account, for which the owner can not be held responsible.
    1. Re:You're going to need more money by uvajed_ekil · · Score: 1

      ...or is this still going to be the in-laws' house and the stated budget is ONLY for cool stuff and not the main remodel? If I misunderstood the scenario then I'll say I'm a big fan of building TVs into walls. I also like woodwork, so if you leave your TV niches a bit big and finish the whole thing out with wood trim, it is not a major hassle if you upgrade the TV. Then you can rework the wood without having to rip the wall apart or cut studs again. And with a lot of stuff going wireless, there isn't as much need to run tons of wires all over for computers, phones and whatnot like in the recent past. Look into home automation systems to control lighting, HVAC, etc, and tankless water heaters.

      --
      This is a hacked account, for which the owner can not be held responsible.
  62. Don't Think of what You Want by EmagGeek · · Score: 1

    Think of what your in-laws want.

    It's not your house. It's their house. Do the remodel based on what their wants and needs are, not what you would do in your own house.

    They may not want you spending $5K of their remodeling budget on stuff they neither want nor need.

    Just a thought.

  63. Arduino - sensors by Kookus · · Score: 1

    Lights, curtains, shades. All programmed/controlled via wifi; frontended with a web interface so I can manually control them via a tablet.
    Lights also include outdoor lights.
    Sensors to detect the deadbolts/garage doors on the house. (Don't want to actually control those, just tell if I locked up the house).

    Multiple thermostats (nests)/zones for hvac. hack together a web interface to control those (some people already have been working on an api).

    solar panels and/or windmills.

    All of that is pretty nifty from a tech perspective, and will save you a buttload of money in the long run.

  64. Re:No TV in the bedroom by Kookus · · Score: 1

    You must be new here. The only way to get fucking in our bedrooms is by having a tv in them and watching fox news. Mind = fucked.

  65. Re:that's not a much of a budget... by swalve · · Score: 1

    And a dedicated UPS for your door unlocking system. And/or one of those battery operated keypad locks at one door.

  66. Cooking for geeks by Tchaik · · Score: 1

    Discover sous-vide, either with a SousVide Supreme (http://www.sousvidesupreme.com/) or an immersion circulator (e.g. http://www.waterbaths.com/products/sousvide_products.html). The supreme is fabulous for slow cooks (3 days beef ribs).

  67. Extreme Geek Kitchen Ideas by gte881s · · Score: 1

    Recently I've started to work on the geek kitchen concept. I'm working on the idea of an admin panel that tells the person cooking exactly the temperature of the oven, stovetop adventures, etc. Going beyond this, I want to throw a few point-able IR thermometers/bolometers around the kitchen that are linked into this system. The creme de la creme of a geek temp monitoring system for a kitchen would be a couple of IR cameras (think FLIR-style temperature monitoring). This would also be point-able and could be used to monitor hotspots on grills or a cold marble slab if you are making candy or specialty ice cream. The other awesome geek kitchen idea (for those who really like weird food prep) would be to incorporate a liquid nitrogen cooling slab. This is used for freezing weird liquids into a variety of shapes and is especially useful for desserts. For my ultimate geek kitchen, automated storage is one of my goals. The first is an inventory system that is tied into a recipe db. I want to schedule meals and have a shopping list automatically generated. Not easy to build and probably not simple to maintain. That one is going to take some effort. I'm also looking at automated small appliance storage and alternatives to the standard dishwasher. These are goals and I have no good solutions to offer right now.

    1. Re:Extreme Geek Kitchen Ideas by vivian · · Score: 1

      After having experienced my chef girlfriend's cooking in a somewhat under - equipped kitchen while living on a tropical island, I can assure you that all the gadgets in the world have nothing to do with the quality of the fare that comes from the kitchen - it's all down to timing, heat, and good ingredients - and having a clue on how best to combine these elements - usually with a lot of multitasking. The rest can be improvised.
      Eg. Impossible to bu castor sugar on the island? no worries - blend regular sugar till it's the consistency you want. Lacking a toaster? a grill will do just fine - only you better be able to track several things at once, or you end up with carbon. She manages it with ease. I struggle to make bacon & eggs without stuffing something. for a couple with no kids, by the time you have rinsed the dishes, loaded and unloaded the dishwasher, you might as well have just washed them by hand anyway - can preparation implements and stuff as you are cooking and finish with things, leaving hardly anything left to wash anyway by the time you eat.
      Keep it simple!

    2. Re:Extreme Geek Kitchen Ideas by gte881s · · Score: 1

      I love the sentiment. For most meals, I totally understand this. My experience has been that the gadgets are not necessary but can be cool. I've cooked 7 course meals for 20 people without any of the devices I mentioned. When it comes to the geek kitchen, however, a bolometer IR thermometer is a truly useful addition to a kitchen. You do not NEED a device of this sort, but for quickly telling the temperature of everything on a stove, the IR thermometer is great once you understand how to use it. There are tons of gadgets out there that people use. Some gadgets are useful, others are for the sake of pushing the limits. My rice cooker does not cook better rice than I do on the stove top. What it does is allow me to do is prep the rice before I go to work and have freshly cooked rice ready 10 hours later for dinner. That is useful. Borrowing a FLIR IR camera and using it to cook steaks - now that is pushing the limits. It turns out to be quite useful as well. Oh, I do not own a toaster - I use the grill... I also bake all my own bread. I do all the prep and kneading by hand and use the IR thermometer to get the oven to the correct temperature. There are other ways to do it, I admit, but this way is fun and it works well. I also play with liquid nitrogen in the kitchen whenever I can get it. Nothing is simpler than Milk + sugar + vanilla + liquid nitrogen = ice cream!

  68. Please don't shoot me if this is redundant by StormyWeather · · Score: 1

    I didn't see anyone mention in-wall USB ports. I have torn apart most of the ones on the market to check out the insides, and I will say that the Leviton is the best built and best amperage.

    Here is a link to what I'm talking about on Amazon, but I found it 6 dollars cheaper at home depot when I purchased mine.
    http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630-W-125-Volt-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B008O11IEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351449624&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton+usb

    Also I don't really care about all the Ethernet ports everyone talks about, I'm fine with wireless. Personally I would rather have a really great wireless network with segregated guest access. I have found the best home wifi is the Ubiquiti unifi line: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B004XXMUCQ/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351449761&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ubiquiti+unifo

    My home is 4400 sq foot, with 2200 on the first floor and 2200 in a basement, and one of these puppies gets me a solid connection anywhere in the house, and I have another one in my back shop that covers the gazebo and back yard.

    If you don't have one think about getting a gazebo with a nice firepit in the center, and ceiling fan over it. I know this doesn't sound "geeky", but I spend a TON of time with my laptop outside on it. My geek freinds and I have had enough with cave dwelling, we are all about a nice cool breeze, a bucket of beer, and laptops plugged in to sockets conveniently placed on every 4x4 at the corners :).

  69. Flexibility by EmperorOfCanada · · Score: 1

    Flexibility in mounting, assume all technology that you pick will be a commodore 64 in 10 years; so make it easy to pull something out and replace it. Don't make everything form fitting. Sort of like the garage. You don't build it to fit your car exactly. If you are running cables run them in a big smooth pipe so you can pull them and run new cables; say fiber, or superconducting.

    If you go with solar you have three basic options (or switchable wiring). One is to go with solar for heat. This is the most efficient and least cool. Then there is solar for knocking your electrical bill down, and finally there is solar for off the grid. If you are in a location where off the grid isn't sensible the cool thing you can do is to have the solar switchable for powering critical things during a power outage. Keeping a fridge going and charging your gadgets would make you the envy of your neighbourhood.

    And as for something kitchen, cool sous vid is the way to go. That is about the nerdiest gadget you can put in your kitchen. You can get one that you put in a pot for a few hundred dollars.

  70. back to basics by obarthelemy · · Score: 1

    Cables, cables, cables. Make sure you have lots of power outlets, and wired gigabit ethernet everywhere.

    --
    The Cloud - because you don't care if your apps and data are up in the air.
  71. Christmas Lights Switch by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

    For Christmas lights, it would be nice to be able to switch it on and off inside. I think that many houses are like that now, but it's worth thinking about. For outdoor outlets, maybe put some on the eaves, so that water and snow won't get in very easily.

  72. Light Switches At Every Door by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

    Light switches at every door makes it easy to turn off the lights when you go in the room through 1 door, and then exit through another door. Without that, you might be tempted to leave the lights on until later.

    This is especially useful for in the garage, which might have a sidedoor. We use that door, instead of the front or back.

    In some cases, it might be worth having 1 switch per bulb, per door, so that you only have to turn on 1 bulb, when you only need 1 bulb.

  73. Smart Conveyor Belt by DaKong · · Score: 1

    Put in a smart conveyor system like they have in the B&H camera store in Manhattan so you can move stuff in and out of storage and all over the house at a keystroke.

    --
    If not us, who? If not now, when?
  74. Plan for the future by yclipse · · Score: 1

    I suggest having conduits placed that will allow for current devices (such as ethernet) AND allow future modalities to be easily added. If I were redesigning a house as short as 15 years ago, I would have urged multiple telephone lines and jacks for ease of internet connectivity. Now that is outmoded. What we are doing today is likely to be similarly outmoded in the future.

  75. Buy Furniture by clawhound · · Score: 1

    Remodeling sucks down money. Focus instead on FURNITURE that matches the house. You will get far, far more return.

    When throwing money into a project, ask yourself, "What tech will survive the next 10 years unscathed?" If a tech won't change much in that span, then it might be worth installing in the house. Otherwise, you are pissing money away. So that means that you invest in power outlets and upgraded power. Otherwise, invest in insulation and windows. Replace your fridge, especially if it's over 10 years old.

    20k is chump change in the renovation game.

  76. Tinfoil wrapping by maestroX · · Score: 1

    perhaps you can get my used tinfoil as im moving to an abandoned coppermine.

  77. Re:Old iPod-touch/android by SternisheFan · · Score: 1

    I just saw a local news story about a home retrofitted for one of our Wounded Warriors. It has.detachable wall mounted iPads that control everything in the home.

  78. Cameras to monitor the house infrastructure by MinistryOfTruthiness · · Score: 4, Interesting

    In light of the approaching hurricane, and during heavy rain in general, I like to make sure my sump pump is keeping up (I live in an older house). Rather than continually going down to check on it, I installed a WiFi IP Camera in the room pointed at the pump. That way I can check on it periodically from my phone without actually going in there. Of course, infra-red LEDs are a must on such a setup, but they come with most cameras anyway. To generalize, cameras wherever you might want to monitor the state of the house. This would be separate from security cameras.

    --
    "I know that every word that man just said is true, because it's EXACTLY what I wanted to hear." -- Space Ghost
  79. Re:Automated windows, integrated with climate cont by mdfst13 · · Score: 1

    Window automation: http://www.secontrols.com/window-automation/

    They sell complete systems that do what you want. They should be able to sell you equipment that would fit your needs.

  80. Re:Automated windows, integrated with climate cont by swillden · · Score: 1

    Thanks. I've looked at their systems, and unfortunately they don't have anything for sliding windows, which is what I'd prefer. They do appear to be the only solution on the market.

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    Note to ACs: I usually delete AC replies without reading them. If you want to talk to me, log in.
  81. PEX and Ethernet by dacarr · · Score: 1
    Gonna reinforce here.

    PEX tubing for your plumbing is pretty damn cool, and pretty cheap. No worries at all about pipe corrosion if you have funky water, and they tend not to burst. Moreover, the right kind of box can set your valves for all fixtures in one central location. The bad news, however, is that you can't just cut the valve if you're on the commode and the commode suddenly springs a leak on the intake.

    As for hardline networking, just do it. Have a wifi spot for guests and laptops, but for desktop boxes, well, wifi never really made sense to me - and besides, it's hard to beat the reliability of a copper CAT6E line, or fiber, or....

    --
    This sig no verb.
  82. Re:Ethernet! -- internet!? by anon+mouse-cow-aard · · Score: 1

    Where is this house? can you get FTTH? if not, Cable? If you are stuck on DSL... well, forget it, it will never be a real geek house.

  83. Make sure the layout is roombable by no+bloody+nickname · · Score: 1

    Once you have started getting used to always coming home to a clean floor you won't want to go back.
    Just make certain there is nothing that the Roomba like* machine can get stuck on and that it can move between rooms.
    Do the same for your bathroom / washing area and get a Scooba if these areas warrant it.

    * It doesn't actually have to be a roomba you use for the term to apply.
    The other robot cleaners are usually similar enough so if one works they all do

  84. Conduit, not Ethernet! Wider doors! Server closet by billstewart · · Score: 2

    Ok, Ethernet's fine too, but what you really want is some 1-2" conduit to a central location, so you can easily rewire the house with whatever kind of wiring you need decades down the road, if anything's still using wire. Maybe it's for audio, or fiber for something, whatever, but you won't really know. Expect that somebody in the future is going to want to put the TV/stereo/whatever on the other side of the room from where you want it, and run conduit there too. And make sure there are enough electrical sockets in enough places (though current electric codes mostly do that already.)

    Also, you want wider doors, because you or whoever you sell the house to in the future may be old enough to need a wheelchair, and an extra six inches of width makes moving furniture a lot easier also. And you want good insulation, and wiring from your HVAC vents to your server closet (because at some point you might want to automate those) and maybe an occasional niche high up in a wall to put whatever electrical stuff there makes sense (e.g. a clock or fan or TV.)

    --

    Bill Stewart
    New Fast-Compression-only CPR http://preview.tinyurl.com/dy575ks
  85. It's simple by Apothem · · Score: 1

    Make a high-performance gaming rig, get a decent processor and get dual graphics cards. Dedicate a single room to be your main entertainment area. Get 3 40" flat panel TV's. Personally I use Samsung LED-LCD because they're cheap(er) and I already had one. Hook them up and have some fun with that. I'd also suggest getting a surround sound system if you feel like adding that on. Dont forget to build a table (or find tables of the same height for your comfortable viewing), and line them all up correctly. This should provide the proper "Command Center" feel without sacrificing utility. The gear combination will be able to compensate for any consoles you may have and extra things you may want to do. The irony is that this whole set up I speak of is still cheaper than a lot of Apple desktops.......

  86. Statues, columns, fountains, lots of tile by tippe · · Score: 1

    Oh wait, you said 'geek'. Nevermind...

  87. My setup by ALeader71 · · Score: 1

    I'm doing the same thing, only on a smaller budget, with different needs. Here's what I have so far:

    Ubuntu 12.04 server running Plex media server and (soon) an XP VM running iTunes. An Apple TV (for living room iTunes) and a Roku box on my TVs for every other steaming service you can think of, including Plex. I have an AirPort Express in the master bedroom for iTunes audio streaming. Oh and my server runs Netatalk for TimeMachine backups, and a backups share under a specific user to accept Windows backup via Acronis TrueImage.

    That's it. Most of my needs are taken care of. Don't forget to set up your own DNS and DHCP servers -- why remember silly IP addresses? For the kitchen, I'd mount a tablet to a cabinet or the fridge door. Maybe a custom under counter space to mount and charge the tablet. Then you have your recipes, audio and video at your finger tips. Both the iOS and Android platforms have audio search integration so doing conversions shouldn't be an issue. Set up some wireless bluetooth speakers for sound and your kitchen is complete.

    PS3 anywhere -- that's a tough one. You can route the video easily enough, but the bluetooth controllers are gonna be a challenge. Hopefully the slashdot braintrust has an idea.

    --
    Only the dead have seen the end of War. - Plato
  88. A Geek Remodel? by Fnord666 · · Score: 1

    First I would start with a little sun, then maybe some strength training and perhaps an aerobic activity or two . . .

    --
    'The tyrant will always find pretext for his tyranny.' - Aesop's Fables
  89. Re:No TV in the bedroom by dragonturtle69 · · Score: 1

    Half right. Whole house is is for fun.

    --
    "What luck for the rulers that men do not think." - Adolph Hitler
  90. Not enough money to matter and a terrible investme by sinnergy · · Score: 1

    I'd say this:

    1) It would be money foolishly spent as it would probably negatively impact the value of the property more than improve it

    2) $10k to $20k is chump change for any significant remodel.

  91. Horizontal Conduit... lots of it. by Miamicanes · · Score: 1

    The single hardest thing I've had to do in my house is run wires horizontally. Pulling wires vertically is relatively easy, but fishing them horizontally is a nightmare. Run horizontal conduit across every room, and terminate it at low-voltage frames that face opposite sides of the wall between alternating studs (to avoid having blank wallplates every 2 feet in any one room. If the room backs up against a closet, put frames in the room where you want them, and put the rest of them on the 'closet' side of the wall. That way, if you need to pull wires horizontally in the future, you can just remove the faceplates and pull the cat5/6/fiber/whatever across the room. On each wall, have a junction leading to another conduit that runs to a central wiring area. It's OK and appropriate to have two or more such areas... say, one near the room where your home theater system is located (so you can put most of your gear there, so you can have direct physical access to it from the location where most of your real-world interactive viewing will occur, and feed other rooms semi-directly from there), and at least one on each floor.

    I can't emphasize the "have multiple wiring paths and crossover points" enough. I've seem some people go to patently absurd lengths so they could get ideological about having "home runs" for everything... then complain that their system is too brittle, or they had to buy a thousand-dollar HDMI extender instead of a $60 one, because they insisted on sending the signal on a 700-foot detour to some central location instead of just pulling a wire through the wall and feeding the jack on the other side. There's a time and place for both. For networks, go ahead and homerun. For high-bandwidth stuff that has serious, expensive-to-fix problems as the distance increases beyond a hundred feet or so, run point to point. Build your conduit so you can do both. Just because you CAN solve certain problems by throwing expensive hardware at them doesn't mean it's necessarily the best idea if you aren't faced with insurmountable physical constraints. Wires are cheap. Managed VLAN-capable gigabit switches with IGMP 3 snooping aren't.

    Ask yourself: if, 7 years from now, you somehow had to get a wire from (some random point in a room) to (some random point in another room on the other side of the house), how would you do it? Could you do it without major surgery as, at worst, a weekend project that might involve cutting a new hole or two for the faceplate frame and some vertical fishing? Because if you can achieve that with conduit, you'll be set for anything you can think of for the next 40 years. Don't even TRY to anticipate the kinds of cables you'll need to run. You'll be wrong, and end up pulling a shit-ton of cable that will end up being sub-optimal for whatever you had in mind, anyway. Run horizontal conduit, interconnect walls with junction points around the house, and sleep well knowing you're ready for anything. I know firsthand -- I spent a fortune, and weeks, pulling shielded cat5e cable after work so I'd be able to run component video over cat5e without interference. I ended up buying $50 HDMI-over-1-cat5e extenders, and all the shielding (god, it was a pain to terminate) ended up being moot.

    Remember, high- and low-voltage can't share conduit or boxes (unless divided). I personally recommend running 4 conduits across each wall... 2 for LV, 2 for HV (possibily substituting Romex for one of the HV conduits for the initial build). Use one conduit in each pair for your "phase 1" wiring connecting your "phase 1" boxes, and use the second conduit in each pair to run future wires from "phase 1" boxes to other locations where you can't bring yourself to put blank wallplates right now. By using the second conduit for "the last 2/4/6 feet", you'll minimize the number of wires that have to be pulled out and re-pulled if/when future cuts to condudit #2 are necessary.

    For high-voltage wiring where you're putting new boxes, put the deepest boxes you can, with box extenders if possible. If you're putting

  92. Invest in power by terminal.dk · · Score: 1

    Invest in solar panels, such that you can get free/cheap power for all the gadgets.
    Wind power is craap, and create so much noise pollution, that nobody wants to live near it

    A fuel cell is another alternative, have not found a price for the Panasic fuel cell yet though. I think it is above your budget.

  93. Re:Sump Pump by MinistryOfTruthiness · · Score: 1

    Never even heard of it. I'll check into it. Thanks for the idea!

    --
    "I know that every word that man just said is true, because it's EXACTLY what I wanted to hear." -- Space Ghost
  94. Bedroom And TV by Maclir · · Score: 1

    Why would you want to have a television in the bedroom? The bedroom is for sleeping (and other related activities), not watching the idiot box.

  95. High quality software and controls. by laxr5rs · · Score: 1

    Spend good money on high quality software and controls. Ones that are industry wide, and well supported. This is one way to make it easier on yourself and everyone. My Father, before he retired, was an Electrical and Ventilation engineer. The software for the control points, switching from room to room, or what have you, should be high quality, preferably supported in a way that you can call someone for solutions and won't have to search around on weeknights and weekends for blogged half solutions, unless you enjoy that challenge. The controls should be the highest quality you can afford from a well trusted resource. This is going in for a house, and needs to be reliable, like a light switch.

  96. HUE by nilbog · · Score: 1

    I just got some of those new Hue lights from Philips and have to say they're pretty awesome. It would be rad to fill up an entire house with them.

    --
    or else!