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The lightning cable has advantages over micro USB (it's a lot easier to plug in, for one thing), and while not as cheap as micro USB, you can get Lightning cables at Monoprice start at twelve bucks: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=112&cp_id=11213&cs_id=1083101&p_id=10375&seq=1&format=2

$650? Try just under $400 - same price as this AOC abomination, but with a 2560x1440 IPS panel at 27" diagonal. 2560x1600 is about $100 more. Thank you Monoprice...

It's too early to know what reliability will be, as well as long-term availability, but Monoprice has introduced affordable high resolution IPS monitors:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=114&cp_id=11401&cs_id=1130704

Hopefully they will start taking sales away from Samsung, Viewsonic, Dell, et. al and cause them to take notice and dump the 1080p-panels-for-all-markets crap.

The main drawback: I have not found any 3D monitors in resolutions greater than 1080p. It would be nice to be able to get one of the monitors like above, only 3D capable for gaming and movies.

Try this one for under $700, full 2560x1600, 30".

Also you can often find deals or promo codes for Dell 30" 2560x1600 under $999 new.

No matter how powerful a processor and how much memory you put in the tablet, you will always have a small screen compared to large desktop monitor. If you don't care much about efficiency in your work, you can get away with a tiny screen, but there isn't and there never will be a substitute for big screen real estate.

Go a few comments up the thread:

I would like to have a single device that is a lightweight tablet with a tablet interface, but when I drop it into a dock with a real keyboard, mouse, and screen

That was essentially what I have and it is called an iPad. It communicates wirelessly with a screen that is called an iMac and synchronizes all important information between the two. The screen is the most expensive part of most computing devices. A 27 inch screen is not exactly cheap. For a marginal increase in cost, a powerful processor, storage and a decent keyboard can be added to the iPad. As a bonus, I can use the big screen for real work my home office, while someone else uses the iPad in the kitchen to look up some recipes.

If your iMac was just a display device, then what you describe is what the original poster was asking for, but since your iMac is a smart device that hosts the apps (that aren't the same apps that are on the iPad), you have no assurance that it can handle the files that were synced from the iPad. If the tablet is the computing device, then you know that you can take it anywhere - home, work, a friends house, hotels, etc, plug it into a display and all of your apps will be there and everything will work just as it did at home. Would you trust a hotel computer enough to sync your data up to it?

A 27" screen costs $390 or $999 if you buy it from Apple. A 27" iMac costs $1799. So you're paying $800 - $1400 more to have an iMac at home versus having a dumb display that uses your tablet as the computer -- you can buy your wife her own iPad with the savings.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3992&seq=1&format=2

Maybe $6 with shipping if you're only getting one, for a 6' cable.

To be fair, though, $10 at a brick & mortar store isn't an awful price.

Agreed, I have a 32" 1080p TV as my "main" monitor, and it works great. Next step, however, will be something like this - still big, but with a much better resolution.

Monoprice.com is going to start stocking house-branded 27" ($400) and 30"($600-$700) IPS panels for a DEEP discount in March. Same LG panels as used in Apple Cinema Display. Monoprice is a great company and wouldn't call what they are offering nameless Korean screens. Here is a link http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=ips

Are they the IPS panels that Apple rejected due to manufacturing defects? Or ones that Apple would have used as well? The Korean branded 27" IPS displays that I have tried are all terrible. The controls suck, they don't seem to be properly adjustable for accurate colors, and the brightness and contrast suck. We bought a bunch of them from Monoprice at work and I hate every last one of them.

Monoprice.com is going to start stocking house-branded 27" ($400) and 30"($600-$700) IPS panels for a DEEP discount in March. Same LG panels as used in Apple Cinema Display. Monoprice is a great company and wouldn't call what they are offering nameless Korean screens. Here is a link http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=ips

Even though he is a self-starter ...

Okay, awesome! What you should do is get him a raspberry pi then pick up an HDMI cable, a cheap keyboard and cheap mouse (both of which should be wired as it lags to offload wireless processing to the pi) from monoprice. Right now, B&H Video has a deal where you get 2 x 16GB cards for $15 if you add two of these to your cart with free shipping. Okay, I've actually already bought several sets of this stuff from these exact same suppliers and handed them off to a bunch of kids that are loving them right now. So that's all legit. You'll need to have a TV or monitor with an HDMI in and it helps if you have a cheap webcam (one of the tutorials I'm gonna mention uses it). You'll also need a second computer with a way to access SD flash cards (pick up a USB toaster for $5 if you don't have this)> Optional would be male-to-female wires like these with any breadboard so he can tinker with making his own stuff -- you'll probably have to drop more cash on more electronic devices to interface with it if you go this route though.

Next, you might consider this book but I prefer this one more. Okay then you send your kid here to get the hard float raspbian wheezy and you tell him how to figure out how to get it on the flash card to boot on the pi. There's a wiki for all this stuff. Then you send him here and make him do these tutorials. Then you make him read all the issues of the MagPi. And if he's smart enough, you buy him some more peripherals. There should be a lot more tutorials coming out for this device.

Once he has all that stuff, you go to the liquor store. Now, the liquor stores around my house sell a lot of types of vodkas and Absolut is great but I've found that Sobieski satiates me just as well. It's made from this Dankowski rye that makes great gimlets. Try to buy a case of handles and haggle him down to ~$13 a handle (that stuff is really cheap). Then you go to the store and you get some of that Real Lime lime juice. Not the key lime shit, the actual lime juice. You're gonna need a decent blender because this thing is gonna be working all summer long. Also, a bag of hazelnuts. Go home and fill a cup to the top with ice and put in about one finger of lime juice. Fill the rest with Sobieski. Blend that shit up, garnish with a couple crushed hazelnuts to really dry that shit out and kick back. Trust me, your kid is going to come and talk to you about python and apt-get and registers and you are not going to want to have to deal with that. So just get good and fucking faced in the sun all summer long. Your kid will thank you for staying out of his hair. A summer of riproarin' fall down drunk? You can thank me later.

I can't find cables with the new micro-B connector on monoprice.

Since the device should come with a cable with the micro-B, you can just use an extension with the original cable.

You can also get decent prices at Newegg for full replacement cables. Remember to change the sort to "Lowest Price".

Agreed. Personally I like to use zip ties for anything I know I'm not going to change anytime soon, but for HT and PC Velcro is great. I've found that Monoprice* has a pretty good selection of colors and types for reasonable prices.

*I have no affiliation with Monoprice.

You could get the cable modem and router (and their cables and AC adapters) off your desk by attaching them to pegboard mounted to a wall or under your desk. Be sure to mount a power strip, too.

If you want something a little more professional looking, you could go all rackmount.

Well, I don't know much about what an average Bangladeshi village has on hand but I'm going to wager that it's a very wide spectrum. So my personal advice is no matter what you find to be your solution, you should provide the DIY equivalent any DIY-able components of the pieces. In this way you can treat yourself as a one man thinktank and you can publish this stuff under CCBY3.0 and your project may enjoy self sufficiency without requiring your constant attention.

So to start at the core of it, I would personally select a $25 non-ethernet (Type A?) Raspberry Pi, an $8 USB keyboard and $5 flash card. From there those little devices have the RCA Video (analog) out and also an HDMI out. So if one of your computers goes bad, you can always rig it up to one of these little guys. However, I also understand that you need more displays. Now this is where you have the option to become a rockstar superman. If you are not afraid of code and working GPIO pins I would suggest purchasing some of these little guys first getting it to simply display and read across what they are typing and secondly maybe use one row to take in a file that progresses in typing difficult and displays that on the first line while it waits for input and validates on the second line (might even have room to use LEDs or something else on the RPi for score keeper/carrot/stick. If you document all this, it might turn out that the villagers get wise on how to ripe a seven segment display out of anything and hook it up to these GPIO pins?

So how to power this? Well the easy way would be to use what you have already available for power but get some of these guys and daisy chain these guys from one of your existing computers until they don't produce enough power. I would suggest researching that screen and the Pi and figuring out what their power draw is. Maybe get some cheap fuses to protect your hardware. A lot of broken appliances still have good electric motors in them and electric motors often produce energy as turbines if you spin them. Now, the big problem is how do you clean the power if people are cranking these turbines with their hands or connected to a bike's gear set? That's something I'm not much of an expert in. I do know the Pis run off of two rechargeable AA batteries just great but you also have to take care if they're planning to try to charge those batteries with a hand cranked appliance motor. From my understanding it's pretty tough to not screw stuff up if you're dealing with human generated power. Had to keep that steady and to find existing ways to clean it down to what tiny sensitive devices need.

The upswing of all this would be that the RPis are versatile, any of those students could really do a whole bunch of things with these. And if you make this a part of the Raspberry Pi wiki, you might get people helping you with those screens -- might. At least others will be able to use your work.

Well, I don't know much about what an average Bangladeshi village has on hand but I'm going to wager that it's a very wide spectrum. So my personal advice is no matter what you find to be your solution, you should provide the DIY equivalent any DIY-able components of the pieces. In this way you can treat yourself as a one man thinktank and you can publish this stuff under CCBY3.0 and your project may enjoy self sufficiency without requiring your constant attention.

So to start at the core of it, I would personally select a $25 non-ethernet (Type A?) Raspberry Pi, an $8 USB keyboard and $5 flash card. From there those little devices have the RCA Video (analog) out and also an HDMI out. So if one of your computers goes bad, you can always rig it up to one of these little guys. However, I also understand that you need more displays. Now this is where you have the option to become a rockstar superman. If you are not afraid of code and working GPIO pins I would suggest purchasing some of these little guys first getting it to simply display and read across what they are typing and secondly maybe use one row to take in a file that progresses in typing difficult and displays that on the first line while it waits for input and validates on the second line (might even have room to use LEDs or something else on the RPi for score keeper/carrot/stick. If you document all this, it might turn out that the villagers get wise on how to ripe a seven segment display out of anything and hook it up to these GPIO pins?

So how to power this? Well the easy way would be to use what you have already available for power but get some of these guys and daisy chain these guys from one of your existing computers until they don't produce enough power. I would suggest researching that screen and the Pi and figuring out what their power draw is. Maybe get some cheap fuses to protect your hardware. A lot of broken appliances still have good electric motors in them and electric motors often produce energy as turbines if you spin them. Now, the big problem is how do you clean the power if people are cranking these turbines with their hands or connected to a bike's gear set? That's something I'm not much of an expert in. I do know the Pis run off of two rechargeable AA batteries just great but you also have to take care if they're planning to try to charge those batteries with a hand cranked appliance motor. From my understanding it's pretty tough to not screw stuff up if you're dealing with human generated power. Had to keep that steady and to find existing ways to clean it down to what tiny sensitive devices need.

The upswing of all this would be that the RPis are versatile, any of those students could really do a whole bunch of things with these. And if you make this a part of the Raspberry Pi wiki, you might get people helping you with those screens -- might. At least others will be able to use your work.

Now where can you get an iphone connector for only $1.95?

No clue. How about $3.25? You need it to charge too?

Now where can you get an iphone connector for only $1.95?

No clue. How about $3.25? You need it to charge too?

I like the Steelseries (I have an original Z-Board) but couldn't justify the purchase just for gaming. Got a great deal just last week on the Monoprice mechanical with the Cherry MX Blacks (the worst of the bunch according to this article). It's got a PS/2 connector with N==64 NKRO as well as the mic/headset and USB connections built in. They had it on sale last week for $56 but it's back to its original $76 as of today. Very solid unit.

I'm sort of confused, what do you think the cable does? Its a data cable with the ability to supply power. USB cables do both. In fact, the dock cable is *drum roll* USB! Maybe the first ever ipod connector with 30 pins was not USB, I dont know I started to buy apple products in 2007, but its nothing special other than a USB cable what you get today. The same video and audio can pass right over it, and with drivers so can everything else you said.

Generic USB to Apple 30 pin connector ($19.99)
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA591G/B?fnode=3a

Generic USB to USB micro cable ($1.20)
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5457&seq=1&format=2

The difference in cost is significant, so yes they are selling it for a mark up. Apple didnt innovate nothing other than pulling a Sony and creating a proprietary cable. The new cable will just be more of the same and the only difference will be the amount of money I have to shovel out for new accessories because the old ones dont have the same connector when I upgrade my phone.

Depends on what "sound reproduction device" means. Reading the patent it seems intended more for professional mixing/editing scenarios and not to hook up your computer to your receiver. Because if you read the patent that way, every converter that hooks up between a computer and audio equipment is susceptible. Like this toslink to digital coax converter. I use one because my receiver is already receiving optical out from my TV and has only one optical in port. If I'm hooking up my computer which only has optical out I have to convert to digital coax.

I bought two pairs of Monoprice 8323's and I think they are fantastic. I keep one at home and the other at work.

I've never been disappointed with anything I've bought from Monoprice.

These same headphones are available from other people (Kicker and others) for significantly more money.

Huh? How is someone going to play "Draw Something" effectively on a laptop or desktop with no touch screen? Have you ever tried to draw with a mouse or trackpad? Haha.

Microsoft seems to think everyone will be going the touchscreen route on desktops and notebooks eventually. Even ignoring that, there are graphics tablets from Wacom, or even ridiculously cheap ones from Monoprice

Even if you're not an artist, they can be nice to have and use, so it's not unthinkable that someone would have one, and at the Monoprice prices, a Draw Something junkie might even be willing to buy a cheap tablet just to play on a larger screen.

There are a number of TV's and Blue-Ray players that have Skype clients.

The Tely-HD is a stand alone solution that does the same thing.

It's easy to find wall mount units for a TV, I suggest using Monoprice.

Setting the grand parents up with one of these units so they can sit in their living room and use the TV, along with some sort of unit in the kids room is the way to go. The TV can always be easily repurposed later. If you already have a TV adding a Blue-Ray with the capability is a nice way to get Skype now and be able to play Disney movies for the kid later.

I looked at that one... you can't hook up more than one computer and you can't hook up anything that's not thunderbolt.

That last one is a lie. If you had actually seen one of those Thunderbolt monitors you would have noticed that on its back there are three USB ports, one FireWire 800 port, one Ethernet port, and one Thunderbolt port for daisy-chainning. So when you get to work with your laptop you can use a single TB cable to hook it up to external USB/FireWire/TB disks, printers, keyboard+mouse, the gigabit network, and two or more external monitors (if your laptop supports them... MacBook Pros do), all running through the TB interface.

If you're going to spend $1000 on a monitor, get the Dell which has more screen space (area and pixels), and allows hooking up 5 computers and switching between them.

That's very cool. I couldn't find that monitor that allows "hooking up 5 computers" in Dell's website though, but I guess that's because they are not trying too hard to promote a very niche feature that can be obtained with fairly inexpensive gear like this or this.

I looked at that one... you can't hook up more than one computer and you can't hook up anything that's not thunderbolt.

That last one is a lie. If you had actually seen one of those Thunderbolt monitors you would have noticed that on its back there are three USB ports, one FireWire 800 port, one Ethernet port, and one Thunderbolt port for daisy-chainning. So when you get to work with your laptop you can use a single TB cable to hook it up to external USB/FireWire/TB disks, printers, keyboard+mouse, the gigabit network, and two or more external monitors (if your laptop supports them... MacBook Pros do), all running through the TB interface.

If you're going to spend $1000 on a monitor, get the Dell which has more screen space (area and pixels), and allows hooking up 5 computers and switching between them.

That's very cool. I couldn't find that monitor that allows "hooking up 5 computers" in Dell's website though, but I guess that's because they are not trying too hard to promote a very niche feature that can be obtained with fairly inexpensive gear like this or this.

Unless you want a super-high-end media tester that can test all 7 layers of OSI, you arent spending $3k on a cat5e check. Best Buy has sufficient cable testers for about $20. For $80 you can get one that does TDR and tells you the length of the cable, plus where any shorts are. For $500 you can get one that does Layer 7, checking DHCP and pinging.

What are the prices for a similar fiber checker?

Basically every $20 Cat5 crimper Ive seen has one side for stripping the cable which works great. Here you go:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10509&cs_id=1050901&p_id=3350&seq=1&format=2
Ive got one, it works fantastic, and its only $11.

Still, pretty cheap: http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=thunderbolt&x=0&y=0

www.monoprice.com

Monoprice > * You can get gold plated cables and it's not going to cost you $30 unless you need about a 20' cable.

Even that $5 cable was overpriced. I've never had any trouble with a cable I bought from Monoprice either.

The only thing I can find not to like is that the stand sticks out in front of the display (to stop it from falling over forward since it's so thin, not a problem with an 85 lb 20" deep CRT) so I can't put my keyboard as close to the screen as I like it.

Assuming that your screen has the standard VESA mounting holes on the back as any decent one will (except Apple), you can buy a monitor stand and mount the monitor to the back of your desk. Monoprice has them about as cheap as you'll find anywhere, and that'll reclaim the desk space under the monitor for you.

Except when you can get a composite to VGA converter for 30% of the price of this chip.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011407&p_id=4722&seq=1&format=2

$25 USB cables

Wow. Was that a typo? My local independent computer retailer sells most USB cables for $5-$10.

And monoprice sells them for a dollar or two.

Monoprice sells a 2D to 3D HDTV/DLP Converter (Frame Sequential, Side by Side, and Red/Cyan) w/ Remote for $95

$18.15

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042801&p_id=5135&seq=1&format=2

Only DVI natively converts to VGA as it's built into the spec (four pins on the connector). HDMI and DP do not have pins for that. In order to convert from HDMI/DP to VGA you need a $60-70 converter, not a $10 adapter like you can use with DVI.

True, but you're wrong on the price. Right now it's $13.93 for a VGA adapter at monoprice. Click here. Apple sells their adapter for $29 - a far cry from $60-70. Doubt many companies will price their products to be more then Apple's.

If your computer supports DisplayPort, and your KVM only supports VGA, then slap one of these on the end of your VGA cable:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042801&p_id=5135&seq=1&format=2

It's not the case for HDMI, but luckily, DisplayPort to HDMI adapters are very tiny and cheap. They're bus-powered (so no power brick), they're cheap ($13 on monoprice for the cheapest), they're small...

Stick this thing on the end of any VGA cable to magically turn your VGA device into a DisplayPort device:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042801&p_id=5135&seq=1&format=2

Yeah, it's not ideal that you're forced to buy this adapter to use an old monitor with a new laptop, but it's not exactly an onerous burden.

Ok, before I get downmodded, here's a link (more than $3):
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024608&p_id=6014&seq=1&format=2

[DVI] gives me crystal-clear digital connection to my monitor, and unlike HDMI, it works every time without fail.

Trying to close the analog hole I guess. Using "smart" HDMI can more easily be used with DRMs. Coupled with machine you can not choose the OS of, and you might have quite annoying copy protection schemes.

Nevermind that HDMI is electrically equivalent (adapters are under $3.

Nevermind that DRM operates at different layer than the physical interface, which itself is different from the electrical interface.

Nevermind that HDMI and DVI, by virtue of the above, support the . Note that this is independent of whether a particular display does.

No, no, forget all that nonsense, the real question I have for your post is how you think anyone can try to close the analog hole by deprecating a digital interface?!

So one would have to plug and unplug a lot more often than if the Smart Box were integrated into the TV.

Led me to ask, are there HDMI doublers? Especially ones that could be controlled remotely? (Perhaps through an Android phone app, even.) So I found one, which switches based on which input is active, and has a button to switch between multiple active inputs -- it can handle up to three inputs. So, no remote capability, but if you can use a remote to turn off the other input source(s), then it's still "operable remotely." And it's just ten bucks, with glowing reviews.

Scroll down on the list of switches to see some that are powered (likely providing sharper image), and there are some "w/ Remote"; the cheapest appears to be under $20, still a good deal.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011411&p_id=8667&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Dear god! Why?!?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011411&p_id=8667&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

Monoprice has a tiny USB WiFi adapter that would be a good fit. The

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10501&cs_id=1050108&p_id=8072&seq=1&format=2

Question: Have you tried any of the Corel offerings like Painter or Pain Shop pro? While i too find PS to be a royal PITA for most jobs i've found painter and PSP to be quite easy and actually pleasant to use. They both also work really well even with the low end tablet inputs which at least for me is a hell of a lot nicer way to work than trying to deal with a mouse. you can pick up a tablet input at Monoprice for as low as $23 and get the big ten incher for $48 so it isn't like they are expensive. I gave one of the 10 inchers along with a copy of Painter for my youngest boy's BDay and he loves it. in windows 7 it all just works as smooth as butter and it allows him to really get fine detail in his drawing.

So you really ought to look at getting a pad input and Corel Painter or PSP. Even if you don't deal with photos that often it makes it a hell of a lot nicer experience and Adobe has always been a steeper learning curve, at least for me.

Question: Have you tried any of the Corel offerings like Painter or Pain Shop pro? While i too find PS to be a royal PITA for most jobs i've found painter and PSP to be quite easy and actually pleasant to use. They both also work really well even with the low end tablet inputs which at least for me is a hell of a lot nicer way to work than trying to deal with a mouse. you can pick up a tablet input at Monoprice for as low as $23 and get the big ten incher for $48 so it isn't like they are expensive. I gave one of the 10 inchers along with a copy of Painter for my youngest boy's BDay and he loves it. in windows 7 it all just works as smooth as butter and it allows him to really get fine detail in his drawing.

So you really ought to look at getting a pad input and Corel Painter or PSP. Even if you don't deal with photos that often it makes it a hell of a lot nicer experience and Adobe has always been a steeper learning curve, at least for me.

Right, better watch out for that zOMG expensive gold plated Apple cable - retailing for a whole fucking arm and leg price of $4.04

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10831&cs_id=1083101&p_id=7863&seq=1&format=2

Hard drives are the cheapest storage. Put some Terabyte drives in a computer and add a removable drive slot. Put your data on the drives, RAID is a waste of time. SATA is fast enough for most people.

If this is archival data that does not change, create a schedule where you back it up once a month, once a quarter, or annually depending on value. The backup will be to a drive you put in and then remove for offline storage. You can so some fancy Hard-linking of backups to maintain versioning, or you can encrypt your backups. The most important part is that they are in two locations, live on your server, and on an offline hard drive. You may consider hashing data to check for corruption.

This setup is fast, it's easy to access, it's not expensive, and it provides robust data security. You should reevaluate in 5 years, purge unnecessary data, or see if better options have appeared.

Check out my site, I specialize in this sort of setup.

the connector falls out without any regard, there's no lock

Plenty seem to exist. Do a quick google, I see cables with a locking mechanism. This has nothing to do with HDMI LLC.

the cable is way too thick

That may just be the cable you bought, try buying a different brand.
Additionally, Monoprice has these, which should solve your "stiff cable" issue.

just for ruining the dvi protocol (dvi had no DRM before hdmi came along). audio and video could easily have been on separate wires. but that would have been too consumer friendly

Hurr durr, you can still use DVI+audio. The ENTIRE selling point of HDMI to consumers is that it is a single cable for video, audio, internet, peripherals (usb), and all the rest; and the entire selling point to the content makers is "it is super consumer friendly, and it includes robust DRM". Many consumers dont want to hook 3 different video cables in, and figure out which ones to hook in (RCA? VGA? Component? Svideo?).

DVI is by no means ruined, which is why my computer monitors continue to function over it.

We want you to have to buy a cable AND an adapter, (at the usual 800% markup from cost of materials) so we can collect license fees twice.

Youre blaming the wrong people for this. HDMI LLC isnt responsible for pricing the cables; if they were, you wouldnt be able to get $2 hdmi cables from Monoprice. Its the cable vendors (Best Buy, Monster, Belkin) that mark the cables up.

I have two, I think I got one from monoprice (not that one necessarily, just the first google hit for monoprice hdmi dvi that wasn't an adapter) and I got the other at the santa cruz flea market, suggesting they have reached ubiquity. Perhaps you should try harder.