Posted by
michael
on from the rock-the-house dept.
Gerard J. Pinzone writes "Here's a page that details the construction of a homebrew subwoofer." Another in a long line of "You can, but should you?" projects.
Actually, you were correct, this unique subwoofer translates all tones into hebrew, adding known hebrew sounds such as 'ch' 'kch' 'schlkk' and all this in real time! You can easily flash the firmware to add the arabic package which includes many eastern languages.
Re:Hebrew Subwoofer?
by
sinserve
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· Score: 1, Offtopic
Arabic is just ONE language, but the arabic writing is used by Farsi and most of the Paki/Afghan languages.
Re:Hebrew Subwoofer?
by
MaxVlast
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· Score: 0, Offtopic
How is what you said inconsistent with what he said?
-- There should be a moratorium on the use of the apostrophe.
Max V.
NeXTMail/MIME Mail welcome
Re:Hebrew Subwoofer?
by
sinserve
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· Score: 1, Offtopic
A subwoofer does not WRITE in Arabic, it _might_ SPEAK in Arabic though. The fact that it speaks Arabic doesn't it automatically speaks Farsi, Urdu, Pashtu, Punjabi or Sindhy.
I hate to sound like a troll, but I read "Build your own [homebrew] subwoofer."
This is clearly not the case, as it appears some guy just built a tube for it and took pictures. Big deal; what highschooler hasn't built a sub box or eight?
I was honestly expecting talk of how to wrap the coils for the electromagnet, calculating impedence, how to determine signal sensitivity, locating a sufficiently strong permanent magnet, and preferred choices of cones. Finally, I expected charts of how this sub stacked up against aftermarket subs, in terms of frequency response.
But what is there?
I got the terminal cup and driver from AdireAudio. I used the Shiva II driver and the terminal cup is the 4 post kind that comes with straps for summing the leads if you aren't using an old DPL receiver to power it like I am.
Low and behold, the guy bought the speaker! Build Your Own Subwoofer? I think not.
You've clearly never used a sophisticated subwoofer with an LCD display.
-- There should be a moratorium on the use of the apostrophe.
Max V.
NeXTMail/MIME Mail welcome
Re:Hebrew Subwoofer?
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
How about entering your PIN number into the ATM machine and then be asked for your SSN number but losing it due to disk corruption and not having a RAID array?
I agree completely i was dissapointed, there are tons of 'build your own box' sites out there, damnit i want to build a sub just for the hell of it, hmm.. well there was that whole useing hard drives as speakers article... maybe a couple of those 5.25 scsi fullheigh platters would make some decent base....
Case only.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 2, Interesting
He only built the enclosure... I was expecting a 50Mb AVI of the guy winding the coil and magnetising the magnets.
Re:Case only.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Right, I was somewhat disappointed as well. It is a nice enclosure though. Must be a slow news for nerds night.
He didn't even build a good case, as far as can be told by that article. Maybe a good looking case, but if he didn't design the cabinet using simulation software, it's very unlikely that it's a good sounding case.
In case you're thinking of a similar project, a good page with all kinds of information and links for designing and building your own subwoofers that actually sound good is here.
Here is a page of freeware loudspeaker design software and links to more. And another such page of speaker design software is here.
Re:Case only.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
It's relatively simple to design a subwoofer, and I assume he just used one of the suggested cabinet volumes/port lengths given by Adire, the manufacturer of the driver he used.
Re:Case only.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Actually this case is quite wellknown. It's called a sonosub or a sonotube subwoofer enclousere.
Yeah, I mean big &£$%ing deal. "Wow, this man can use a saw and wood glue, he must be some kind of god." Yeah right...
I made my own speakers at uni - total cost around £80 for a set of kick-ass 50W/side speakers (10" woofer). I used a freeware program to work out the speaker size and the port length to get them working. I've never been able to push them up to the limit, even outdoors!:-) At the same time, my friend built a sub-woofer, including making his own power amp for it with the roll-off frequency settable. At no point did either of us think we'd done anything special, worth publicising to the world as a major achievement.
I just want to see how he hacked a router to do that.
Kidding...I'm not that much of a geek.
Re:Amazing!
by
superpeach
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· Score: 2, Insightful
Why, in England, is router said as root-er (the networky kind) and a router (the cutting kind) is said as, um, row-ter (where 'row' is the kind of thing you may have with your girlfriend/wife, not like the boat, which you row) - the way Americans say router (the networky kind). Who was it that came up with the idea to make written english so bloody (read: 'damn') confusing?
You need to turn of the SG-1 and turn on New Yankee Workshop. This is a trivial task.
Remove baseplate on router. Get plank a little longer than the radius of the hole you want to cut. Bolt to bottom of router using baseplate holes. Measure from center of router bit along plank. Drill hole through plank. Place this hole over center of hole you want to cut. Cut another hole, using plank as guide. Place bolt through plank and piece to be cut. Turn on router, swivel around bolt.
Voila! You have cut a hole with a router.
FWIW, I prefer the guy who uses the antique and archaic handtools over norm's "I have a $20,000 tool for just one job" manner. But Norm does have some neat tricks.
-- Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
I think one of them routes and the other one routs. But when you stick -er on the end the written difference disappears.
There's a similar question with -ing, which has led some British publications to distinguish between 'routeing' and 'routing', but most people just write routing for both.
Both the networky thing and the cutting thing are called "routers" because the make "routes". If people where you come from pronouce route as "root", then they should both be pronounced "rooter". If your dialect says route as "rowt" (as mine does), then they are both pronounced "rowter".
BTW: Do you say "pronounce" like "pronoonce", too?:P
I know what you mean. Watching that damned show makes me think I need to run out and buy one of those big belt sanders that can do a whole door at once. Eventually, I come around to remember that it would be cheaper to hire somebody to sand my door by hand at $50/hour. Still, his show is fun to watch, and half of the pleasure comes from doing interesting woodwork vicariously through Norm.
How is this news? I like the article on how to do it, but I people have been building subs for a long long time. You can go to radioshack and buy everything you need to build a good sub. Optimus is not the greatest but Im sure you can get the encloserment and then go to a good speaker shop to buy a 12" sub speaker. Plus the 4 gage wire and blah blah blah.
I agree about the how is this news part. Building enclosures is nothing new and by itself isn't terribly interesting. Now an article on how someone fit some obscene amount of subs into a tiny foreign car would have been much more interesting. I still remember running the numbers to see if we could fit 4 12inch subs in my friends nissan 240sx back when I was into that kind of stuff:)
I used to have a 15" foldback wedge (those triangular speakers along the front of the stage) in the back of a Volvo 340. Lots of bass, without that subwoofer "whuff" that you always get. I hate that sound, where you get decent bass down to about 200Hz, then nothing, then a big peak about 40Hz. Instead of nice clean bass you get this "wumf wumf wumf" noise. It's shit, don't do it.
I still remember running the numbers to see if we could fit 4 12inch subs in my friends nissan 240sx
Could, or should?
I saw a picture in car audio magazine one time of a honda accord (old style) that had somewhere around 30 18" woofers in the back. He just had 4 or 5 big sheets of plywood with as many woofers as he could fit screwed in to it. no boxes, and the back of the car wasn't even sealed. It must have sounded like complete crap, but it was possible to fit them.
Could as in properly sealed with dividers between each speaker space (speaker boxes with no dividers is a big no-no), and that each 12 had the proper amount of air space. IIRC we went with 4 JL 12w5s because they would work well with 1.5 cubic feet of sealed enclosure air space. To help make sure the air space was sealed screws were placed every 2 inches to hold the box together with a bead of silicon between the joints and then another bead along the inside of the box at the seams. We managed to fit all of this monster into the back of the 240sx without losing the back seat.
Overall an enclosure of this type is not hard to build, but building it inside the hatchback of a car is a PITA. Lets not even get started on what it took to get amplified sound to each speaker...;-)
On a side note, it surprises me that more geeks aren't into screwing around with car stereo. There is math, electronics, wiring, music, etc... all in one place. Sounds like something that would be right up many geeks alleys.
should you ?? 'working with hands' bias on slashdo
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
imagine if someone said 'should you write an xxxxx' where xxxxx is some computer software thing. now since this project uses wood and screws and drills, slashdotter is gonna think 'oh my god! how do they do that' but to people who do that sort of thing all the time, this project is as though a throw-away perl script.
given a little basic wood and wood tool knowledge this is not a humungous project (unlike all the stuff that gets plastered on freshmeat and slashdot every day, like KDE, gnome, debian, redhat, and hundreds of other projects that take inordaintely more time than this project did)
Re:Good rule of tumb
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Not a Subwoofer
by
iamjim
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· Score: 5, Insightful
This is some guys expierence making an ENCLOSURE. I got excited, wrapping a cone w/ wire, finding a good permenant magnet. NOPE - This is something that MANY MANY people have done. It is making a subwoofer that would be the challenge. Then again, making a proper enclosure isn't easy...
Next time get the title of the article right!
Re:Not a Subwoofer
by
Mononoke
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· Score: 2, Insightful
I got excited, wrapping a cone w/ wire, finding a good permenant magnet.
That's the driver. I believe he is talking about making a subwoofer, which would imply the use of the device at lower frequency ranges of human hearing.
A driver, no matter what size it is, is not a subwoofer. Subwoofers can be made with a single 12" driver, with four 18" drivers, or even a 30" driver.
No, he doesn't tell you how to make a driver.
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Re:Not a Subwoofer
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
i always thought a subwoofer referred to a driver whose purpose was to reproduce the low bass. you're an ass anyways.
Re:Not a Subwoofer
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Bullshit. There is not a "free space" driver anywhere that audibly reproduces any frequency below 300Hz.
LOL... maybe you do need some guidance, you obviously are out of touch. Then again, maybe I should get your lazy ass to prove that no free space driver can go below 300 Hz...
But anyway, I'll indulge you quickly; I'll only post a couple links since apparently all I have to prove is that there is one driver that will work (there are many, many free-space drivers that go well below 300 Hz by the way):
There are quite a number of claims being made here by people who are good at reading spec sheets but not so good at interpereting them.
When you see a driver that is rated for a certain frequency range, the rating assumes that the driver is properly mounted in a cabinet (enclosure) of an appropriate size (if it isn't big enough, the pressure of the enclosed air will act to limit the ability of the driver cone to move back and forth)
When a driver is suspended in free space, the sound waves coming off the back of the driver can cancel the sound waves coming off the from of the driver surface. This is not such a problem at high frequencies, because the sound waves are not long enough to cause any significant cancellation.
I agree with the poster who said that no free-air driver will produce any significant responce below around 300Hz- this corresponds to a wavelength of just over three feet. Even an 18" driver hanging in free air will have its front and back waves concel at lower frequencies. You will get some response, but it will have dropped off dramatically by that point.
Actually, no. You're right - it is a driver - but a subwoofer is generally accepted to be a driver 10" or more in diameter, playing frequencies from 80Hz down. The enclosure design denotes the type of bass you'll attain: bandpass, sealed, vented, etc.
A driver (typically a coil, cone, suspension, and magnet) is not a subwoofer. An enclosure (typically a pile of lumber, some screws or expensive clamps, a bunch of glue) is also not a subwoofer.
Putting both of them together may make a "subwoofer", if things end up wired appropriately, but neither a box nor a driver is very useful by itself. It's like having a CPU without a motherboard or any other requisite component, and calling it a "computer".
Next time, try to posess even a modest understanding of the topic before flaming the submitter/editor/whoever.
Your mention that making a proper enclosure isn't easy is quite possibly the understatement of the century. The moving parts (drivers) of a completed loudspeaker assembly generally only account for ~10% of the final retail cost - and you're lucky if they spend even that much on it. The rest goes toward crossover parts (if needed), hardware like fancy gold-plated terminals, paying someone to solder it all together, and, mostly, a quality cabinet to put it all in.
The cabinet is primarily responsible for making the speakers at your local high-end shop sound better than those sold by your friendly neighborhood appliance whore. It is big, expensive to build, and expensive to ship.
The selection of design and materials is a very non-trivial exercise. Not surprisingly, the more difficult, time-consuming, and heavy designs tend to work better. More expensive materials (think Corian, granite, or good MDF, versus OSB) tend to sound better. Good engineering early on in the project can yield a shift toward zero for all of these variables, but everyone here knows that good engineering is similarly non-free.
And speaking of engineering, it takes a lot of it to build a good driver from scratch. Common practise is geared more toward modifying an existing sample to do more of what you want, instead of building new. The variables are numerous, the parts non-obvious, and the mathematical predictions for what-does-what lacking. But if you really want to know about it, a good place to start might be back-issues of Voice Coil Magazine.
Sorry, but you are wrong. They are 2 separate types of driver, and neither has anything to do with an enclosure. Woofers are tuned to better handle midbass and lower midrange frequencies at the expense of very low frequencies. Subwoofers are tuned to handle very low frequencies much better but are less adept at higher frequencies. Its normal to see woofers with optimal response ranges of 50 or 80Hz up to 1 or 2 KHz. Subwoofers on the other hand typically have optimal ranges from 20Hz up to 120 to 300Hz.
That's not really what the poster was talking about. "Free air" is a term that is used (more commonly in the car audio market) to refer to infinite baffle installations. In this case, there is a wall or other divider between the front and back of the speaker, so you don't get sound wave cancellation at low frequencies. However, there is no traditional box supporting the speaker. For all practical purposes, the mechanical contribution of the "enclosure" is nonexistant. There is no air pressure difference to act as a spring or anything like that.
But anyway, I'll indulge you quickly; I'll only post a couple links since apparently all I have to prove is that there is one driver that will work (there are many, many free-space drivers that go well below 300 Hz by the way):
Every link you posted discusses drivers mounted in enclosures, where the driver/enclosure combination response measurements are stated. There are no response measurements of any drivers only, because they'd be meaningless. Drivers without enclosures (or at least a baffle of some kind) cannot reproduce wavelengths longer than the diameter of the driver.
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Re:Not a Subwoofer
by
Mononoke
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· Score: 2, Insightful
Why are we bothering to argue with a bunch of kids who have absolutely no knowledge of the physics of acoustics?
Let these folks waste their money on the "experts" at the local auto sound shop.
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Re:Not a Subwoofer
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
if you suspend those drivers from a string and use them as subwoofers, you will hear nothing unless you put your ear next to them. there is a purpose to the enclosure.
Re:Not a Subwoofer
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
i loved it when he wrote "all that would change would be the tuning frequency". HA HA HA! all that matters is the so-called "tuning frequency". these subwoofers he built must sound like shit, which won't bother him because they'll go thumpa thumpa even more than they would if he built them right, and that's what he's looking for.
Re:Not a Subwoofer
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Drivers without enclosures (or at least a baffle of some kind) cannot reproduce wavelengths longer than the diameter of the driver.
Wrong. No matter the size of the driver, it will still produce pressure waves all the way down to zero frequency. The diameter of the driver simply defines the "cutoff" frequency (which is a bit of a misnomer because it incorrectly implies that there is no response below a certain frequency). In reality, with a conventional cone driver there is a first-order dropoff in output response below the cutoff, that is the rolloff is about 10dB/decade, and the cutoff itself is usually defined by the half-power (-3dB) point.
So, if the cutoff for a given driver is 300Hz, that means that at 300Hz the driver's output is 3dB down from its plateau, at 30Hz, it's 13dB down, and at 3Hz it's 23dB down. In almost any subwoofer you make/buy, the driver is operating entirely in its cutoff region.
The enclosure, on the other hand, has a totally different frequency response. The total unit frequency response is determined by multiplying the response of the source (the driver) with the enclosure. A basic rectangular box enclosure is designed to place two resonance peaks (or a single one in the case of a cube) in the desired frequency range, with the larger peak at lower frequency to compensate for the rolloff in the driver's response. Then you add baffles, tubes/waveguides, etc. to create secondary resonances to fill in the valleys in the first order response of the enclosure.
What you start with is a driver that is operating in it's cutoff region, producing a first-order rolloff response. What you end up with is a bandpass response that has as few peaks & valleys as possible in the desired bandwidth, and typically a higher order rolloff above & below the upper and lower cutoffs.
Now, it is possible to create a usable subwoofer without an enclosure. You still have to compensate for the rolloff response of the driver operating below its cutoff, but instead of tuning pressure waves, you perform the tuning electronically so that the frequency response of the driver's input signal is the opposite of the driver's response. The reason why you hardly ever see this approach used is because the power requirements are much greater.
Re:Not a Subwoofer
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
I agree with the poster who said that no free-air driver will produce any significant responce below around 300Hz- this corresponds to a wavelength of just over three feet. Even an 18" driver hanging in free air will have its front and back waves concel at lower frequencies. You will get some response, but it will have dropped off dramatically by that point.
The driver itself *is* producing significant output below 300Hz. Just because it's operating below its cutoff frequency doesn't mean it isn't producing sound, it just means it has a logarithmic frequency response. Drivers used in woofers are *always* operating below cutoff. And whether it is operating in free space or in an enclosure, the driver has to produce significant output below 300Hz becuase is the *sole* source of output.
The enclosure primarily provides a resonance chamber with a bandpass response that is in the desired frequency range of the speaker. Without the enclosure, you get a logarithmic response that requires equalization to flatten.
As you point out, the enclosure also effectively turns the speaker into a monopole source, so that you have a lot more freedom to place it wherever you want without worrying too much about cancellation. With a free driver, the output will be highly dependent on where you place it in the room. In some locations, output will be very high and in other locations it will be very low. A woofer can be made to work effectively without an enclosure, it just requires equalization to correct for it's response and room placement will be very critical.
Re:Not a Subwoofer
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
if you suspend those drivers from a string and use them as subwoofers, you will hear nothing unless you put your ear next to them. there is a purpose to the enclosure.
Well, obviously if you simply hang it from a string the driver will simply move itself back and forth instead of moving the air! You can use a driver without an enclosure, but you still need a rigid mount for it. Also, you'll have to be very careful about where you place it in the room (hopefully close to a wall/corner), and you'll be stuck with the frequency response of the driver alone (which will not be flat at bass frequencies).
Wrong. No matter the size of the driver, it will still produce pressure waves all the way down to zero frequency. The diameter of the driver simply defines the "cutoff" frequency (which is a bit of a misnomer because it incorrectly implies that there is no response below a certain frequency). In reality, with a conventional cone driver there is a first-order dropoff in output response below the cutoff, that is the rolloff is about 10dB/decade, and the cutoff itself is usually defined by the half-power (-3dB) point.
Let's look at the physical motion of the driver cone: On the positive slope of a sine wave the cone is pushed out away from the magnet by the voice coil. That motion creates a high-pressure area in front of the cone. Simultaneously, a low-pressure area is created behind the cone. At wavelengths longer than the cone diameter an audible (or measurable) sound wave cannot be created due to the pressure equalizing between the front and rear of the cone.
So, if the cutoff for a given driver is 300Hz, that means that at 300Hz the driver's output is 3dB down from its plateau, at 30Hz, it's 13dB down, and at 3Hz it's 23dB down. In almost any subwoofer you make/buy, the driver is operating entirely in its cutoff region.
First time I've ever heard it described in "decades." In the business of professional audio 'octaves' are the units typically used.
Trust me, the dropoff is much more rapid than you've described. More like 12dB/octave or more.
I was gonna quote more, but as read back over it I realized that it's more marketingspeak than actual scientific theory. You don't sell directional audio cables, do you?
Now, it is possible to create a usable subwoofer without an enclosure. You still have to compensate for the rolloff response of the driver operating below its cutoff, but instead of tuning pressure waves, you perform the tuning electronically so that the frequency response of the driver's input signal is the opposite of the driver's response. The reason why you hardly ever see this approach used is because the power requirements are much greater.
No, it is not possible to creat a useable subwoofer without at least the presence of a baffle.
The reason you never see your approach (trying to alter physics with electronics) is that:
The driver needs some kind of back-loading to keep the voice coil from being pushed out of the gap.
Any energy you force into the driver that it can't turn into acoustical energy gets turned into heat.
One thing everyone seems to be missing in this discussion is that driver specifications are based on a driver mounted in a large baffle and measured in an anechoic chamber.
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Re:Not a Subwoofer
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
That motion creates a high-pressure area in front of the cone. Simultaneously, a low-pressure area is created behind the cone. At wavelengths longer than the cone diameter an audible (or measurable) sound wave cannot be created due to the pressure equalizing between the front and rear of the cone.
That makes two incorrect assumptions - namely that the speed of sound is infinite, and that moving air has no momentum. In reality, the finite speed of wave propagation and the limits on how fast the air can flow around the driver to equalize pressure mean that an audible wave will be produced.
If you've ever just hooked up a driver prior to installing it (out of curiosity), you would know that frequencies below cutoff do get reproduced - just not that loudly. Obviously, the longer the wavelength, the less output - hence the logarithmic roll-off in response below the cutoff frequency.
First time I've ever heard it described in "decades." In the business of professional audio 'octaves' are the units typically used.
Sorry. I'm an electrical engineer - we usually think in decades because it makes logarithmic calculations easier.
Trust me, the dropoff is much more rapid than you've described. More like 12dB/octave or more.
No. You're thinking of a driver in a ported enclosure. The driver alone (ignoring the backwave for now since it's enclosed) has a single pole frequency response (3dB/octave or 10dB/decade). The rectangular cavity provides a two pole frequency response. The port provides a forth pole to the transfer function. When you roll that all together, you get a four pole response which falls off at 12dB per octave or 40dB per decade below the lowest pole. That's one of the downsides of the ported cabinet design. It gives you greater output and more tuning possibilities, but the low frequency rolloff is steep.
I was gonna quote more, but as read back over it I realized that it's more marketingspeak than actual scientific theory. You don't sell directional audio cables, do you?
No, I don't sell anything.
No, it is not possible to creat a useable subwoofer without at least the presence of a baffle.
I suppose this depends on what you call usable. I didn't mean to suggest that this approach makes for a good design. I'm only trying to point out that it is possible.
One thing everyone seems to be missing in this discussion is that driver specifications are based on a driver mounted in a large baffle and measured in an anechoic chamber.
That's a good point that may have been lost on the people you started arguing with. When the specifications state a frequency response of 50-800 Hz for a particular woofer driver, that clearly does not mean that the cutoff frequency is 50 Hz.
I was hoping this would talk a little more about the mechanical aspects of building the actual driver, instead of being mostly a guide to fitting a sub into a box. Or am I just missing something?
I was hoping this would talk a little more about the mechanical aspects of building the actual driver, instead of being mostly a guide to fitting a sub into a box. Or am I just missing something?
Yes, you are missing something. A driver is not a subwoofer. I have 12" drivers in subwoofers. I have 15" drivers that are not in subwoofers.
A subwoofer is a combination of driver and enclosure designed for greatest efficiency and flattest frequency response at frequencies from 80Hz on down.
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Re:Lacking a bit..
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
In fact a google search yields about 16,000 results with the words "DIY" and "subwoofer".
Which brings me to...
Is this really news?
-S
-- ---
What parts of "shall make no law", "shall not be infringed", and "shall not be violated" don't you understand?
Re:Check out Hometheaterforum.com
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TeknoDragon
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· Score: 2
nope, not news... how about something at least 5 years old? like making a tactile-transducer to strap to your lay-z-boy, make those quake/ut2k3 rockets really hit http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_4_2/tac tile. html
or my current fav design (for no particular reason, other than it looks cool), the passive reflex enclosure http://www.diysubwoofers.org/prd/
Subwoofers are a cool DIY project
by
Snarfangel
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· Score: 1
Subwoofers are one of the few things that home audio do-it-yourselfers can build that is at least somewhat cost-effective in terms of material, effort, and result (well, maybe planar ribbon loudspeakers, though the lines of magnets might be a bit of a pain). Put a nice, massive driver and bandpass filter into a well-dampened box of appropriate volume and spousal approval and you'll have something that not only adds to the depth of music, but will also give you a martini "shaken, not stirred" during your James Bond movie marathon.:)
-- This tagline is copyrighted material. Please send $10 for an affordable replacement.
its not that uncommon to build your own stereo equipment, people have been doing it for as long as there was stereos. In fact most car stereo junkies I know of build their own speaker boxes as it is much cheaper then paying someone else to do it and chances are will look better as it matches the look of your car. Had the guy made his own speaker I would be impressed
For More Homebrew Goodness...
by
DonnarsHmr
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· Score: 2, Interesting
There is a strong and thriving community of DIY audio enthusiasts. I myself built my own tube preamp, interconnects, and power amp. Try http://www.speakerbuilding.com/ for information about building speakers. For broader information, go to http://www.stereophile.com and click on "Links 2 Die 4" (the l337-ness is theirs, not mine) and then on the DIY link.
Uh, who gives a crap?
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
WTF does this have to do with anything intresting?
Re:Uh, who gives a crap?
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
>Besides, your (legal, of course) MP3s and Quake III Arena will sound much better with one!
How well does it work with il-legal MP3's? Has anyone tested this??
Not too detailed...
by
cei
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· Score: 4, Informative
Sure, it's great that the guy documented his project so others could replicate it, but it might be more useful if he mentioned how he calculated the optimal port length. Specs on resonance frequency, Vas, power handling, and other things might be nice as well. Or why he chose a ported sub rather than an isobaric or sealed design or something else. Not that there's a correct choice, but knowing a little bit about how and why he made his decisions might help others down the line.
-- This sig intentionally left justified.
Re:Not too detailed...
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
he probably didn't calculate anything, hes just a geek who built a subwoofer based on simple knowledge, it probably works like shit.
Sure they are a pain in the ass to calculate and not many is up to the task but built right it hurts to listen to them. The punch you get out of a quarts wave pipes (simplest horns) is pretty amazing.
I think the reason hornes arent that popular is that they are hard to calculate and very difficult to build. Take the time and you have a speaker that blows most others away.
-- HTTP/1.1 400
Re:Not too detailed...
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
One problem with using a horn design for a sub-woofer is that it would be huge.
Another problem with horns in general is that they have a fairly narrow frequency response, and their phase center moves with frequency. Horns aren't so bad when paired with a specific instrument that is producing output primarily in one frequency band, so they're often useful for live performances. But you need more of them with a lot of crossovers and equalization in order to fully cover the audible frequency range. That's the main reason why you don't seem them used much in home audio.
People have been doing this for a long time (Building ENCLOSURES, not subwoofers). All those little bassheads that you see going down the street with civics shaking the windows out of your house do it themselves. It's simple and easy, and most companies that sell subwoofers provide very detailed and specific guides (more than that page) about port length for ported boxes, volume calculations, building materials, construction methods, and countless other things.
And boy, MDF is a bitch to work with.. you need a carbide blade for the saws, and screws strip SO easily. Not to mention MDF dust is very carcinogenic (search around google) and smells bad. Expect this thing to stink up wherever you put it for a while.
Most of the guides are in PDF format (For car audio) from the major sub manufacturers' sites:
www.kicker.comwww.rockfordfosgate.com
etc
Forque
(Chester Bochan)
I think you're confusing MDF with something else... I've been building MDF enclosures
for years.
MDF (medium density fibreboard) is very easy to work with - you can cut it with a standard
jigsaw or table saw. I don't know what kind of screws you've been using, but normal wood
screws are more than adequate... MDF won't strip your screws any more than plywood would.
And as for the smell... I've never noticed any, other than a slighly woody odor. Most of
the boxes I build get carpeted and installed on the same day, and I've never had any
complaints.
Building a simple enclosure is as easy as cutting the MDF, fitting it, gluing it,
screwing it together, and carpeting it. Adding things like plexiglass windows, etc.,
is where it gets interesting.:)
Re:Score -1, clueless
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Carbide blades are not needed at all with MDF,there isn't any difference in what tools you need to work with MDF and plywood. I've never had any problems with screws stripping, unless of course you're not pre-drilling your holes. So this is at least semi-on topic, check out Blaubox (older, DOS based, but works) and WinISD for driver modeling and enclosure building utilities.
Yes!! You should!!!
by
Bobartig
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· Score: 3, Informative
Building a sub is a great project. As a single driver speaker, it requires no crossover, and therefore is relatively easy to design/build. Plus, with some careful planning, you can get amazing results.
I've built a couple Subs based around the Shiva Mk II driver this guy used, along with a 250W plate amplifier from partsexpress, and it is amazing. Easily produces useable bass down to 20 hz in a sealed enclosure (F3 of something like 17.3 hz in a 1.7 cu ft. box, if I remember correctly...). An adire sub kit easily rivals subs in the $1000-$1200 range.
Listening to one of these explains why audiophiles don't like those Sat/sub computer multimedia sets, and tend to call them a "bunch of crap". None of them produce any useable bass below 50-60 hz, and a lot of HT systems are designed such that the sub only STARTS playing from those frequencies down.
Having said that, I don't see why this is front page news on/.
-- This is where I get my recommended daily allowance of "Foot in Mouth."
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe the original poster meant no crossover internal in the enclosure?
Re:Yes!! You should!!!
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Well, no low frequency speaker _requires_ a crossover, but if you don't use one then your wasting a lot of power and the LF speaker will lose some of it's punch.
My take on that was that there is no *internal* crossover. A real subwoofer should have an active crossover before the (dedicated) amp. This pretty much goes for any situation - The one exception may be (but usually isn't) the LFE channel on surround recordings, where the channel only contains low frequency sounds. Most surround preamp/receivers do low-pass filter this channel anyway before sending the signal out, and many active subs have a built in adjustable active crossover (before the included amp, so one could argue that it isn't part of the subwoofer).
Anyway, a proper system design would ensure that your sub would never receive 10KHz tones, and therefore you would be safe from the cone breakup effects, etc..
--
Jon Katz - the worlds biggest waste of time and bandwith.
It looks like this enclosure is sort of a "slot-loaded" design. I built one like this about 10 years ago, and this is the way Velodyne and others have been doing it for a long time. Since the woofer is firing towards the floor, with a fixed (calculated) gap between it and the floor, the need for a crossover is reduced. Not eliminated, but reduced. You'd need a higher-order crossover if the woofer was mounted on the front of the enclosure, staring you in the face and beaming those higher frequencies.
-- -- Never hit a man with glasses. Hit him with a baseball bat.
You really should use some capitalization for "partsexpress," I was wondering what a "sex press" might be, and how you could only have part of one. It took me a while to realize that it was PartsExpress.:)
-- ________________________________________________
suwain_2:: quality slashdot p
Re:Yes!! You should!!!
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
For a sub to be worth making, IMHO, one would have to start with the proper transducer. One with a free air resonance in the range desired(and other things like voice coil length, power handling ect). Depending on the freq response of your L+R peakers, you may need a sub to extend to 125hz as oppossed to a range of 30-80 or so. While a crossover would allow a range to be defined, it by itself doesn't mean the speaker can reproduce these frq's evenly. The combo of driver, enclosure and port size is all important in this. As for being next to a boundry(floor, wall ect) expect a 3db increase per boundry. Since freq's below 200hz become omnidirectional, where the sub faces is irrelevant. If you put it in the corner on the floor, you could expect 9db more volume per fixed wattage than if you hung from the ceiling in the middle of the room.
Dynamic range(peaker) and damping(amp) values are critical in how precise the sub will reproduce exactly what is available from the source. But just for rattling the windows, power and control of freqs is all you need. Start with the driver.(of which the article never mentions the properties or importance)
He got the port length wrong, but...
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
But, that's OK, considering all that will do is change the tuning frequency..
Quote: --- The ports are 4" and flared from Madisound. They came with a short tube to connect them, but it wasn't long enough. I went to Home Depot and bought some 4" schedule 20 (the thin stuff) pvc and 4 schedule 20 4" couplings. I realized after sealing the sub up that I had mismeasured the ports and made them too long. But, after emailing Patman in panic, he assured me that the only thing that would change would be the tuning frequency. ---
So much for frequency response..
He built a bass tube not a subwoofer!
by
Mustang+Matt
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· Score: 2
That's nothing special is it? You can buy your own plans for tubes or boxes all over the place.
A subwoofer is the actual speaker which he just popped into place right?
There's more to building quality speakers then just mounting drivers in a box: particularly with ported designs. Building a sub with controlled, tight bass is the challenge; anyone can build a deafening "rumble box".
-Chris
-- --an unbreakable toy is useful for breaking other toys--
In high school I messed around with this stuff. My metric on how good the bass was depended upon how much I itched my nose -- the vibration made my nose itch uncontrollably. The more itching, the better the bass.
Buy an iSub and sound stix.
by
crovira
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· Score: 2
given the low price for a system these days and the crap sound you'll get if you do it wrong, buy an iSub and a couple of sound stix at the Apple store and save yourself a couple of years of apologising for the crappy looking cabinets.
-- MSBPodcast.com The opinions expressed here are my own.
If you don't like 'em... Think up your own stuff.
Re:Buy an iSub and sound stix.
by
foo12
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· Score: 1
You're a bit confused: the SoundStix are the two satellites plus the sub. The iSub itself it made to work in conjunction with the built-in speakers on the old, CRT iMacs, the built-in speakers on the eMac, and Apple's add-on, amplified speakers. The industrial design of the subs are the same, but the specs aren't.
This isn't even a good explanation for how to create a subwoofer enclosure. It is completely missing any information on the critical variables that describe the attributes of the low frequency driver as well as the procedure for designing the enclosure and crossover network to work with the driver to produce an optimized system. You can't just throw any old speaker into a given enclosure and expect a decent result.
If you don't design the enclosure around the Thiele-Small parameters for the driver you put in it you are basically throwing the driver into a pretty box and ignoring the most important factors...how the completed system will perform.
And I wouldn't be a good slashdotter if I didn't mention are several computer programs that help with the design of speaker systems. They are really helpful for designing a subwoofer. I used such a program to design the subwoofer in my car.
EXACTLY what I wanted to say. At least he did mention about messing up the port length. Myself being an old school autosound installer in my previous life I've designed MANY of these, somewhere on the order of losing count of just how many. Thiele-Smalls, the construction materials, to port or not to port based on the TS params of the driver, enclosure volume you have to work with and the volume of the vehicles cabin drasticaly affect how it will sound. You also have a lot of room to shape he overall sound, everything from those stupid-assed anoying boom-box systems we all so love *cough* down to a nice tight 'n clean system with the sub just fitting in with the rest of the musical range to cover. Sorry, getting kinda off topic here, just had to toss in my own $.02. Anyway, point is, you realy need to know what you're doing before before just tossing any old speaker in any old box. You may get lucky but most likely you'll be vey dissapointed if you do just try and toss it together without proper design.
that's because the subwoofer described in the site absolutely sucks... I ran the box plot on it... it is HORRIBLE with a capital H... sure it will sound OK if you jam 20 bajillion watts into it... but any nut can do that (note: 90% of the car stereos you hear are really crappy subwoofers with overpriced drivers and too much power.)
The title of the article needs to be, how to build a homebrew low end subwoofer that will be the same as the $49.95 KLH units at best buy.
Well, if you ain't that much of a DIY guy, you can buy such (not actually sonosub, but much sturdier) cylindrical subwoofers from SV subwoofers. The latest PC+ series is already given praise over Home Theater across the web. And the CS Ultra series is... Well... Check for yourself!:)
Oh, and they are an Internet sale only company - you buy subwoofers directly from them, there are no other dealers between you and them.
And I don't own a SVS... yet ^_^ (and neither do I work for them)
Re:Commerical cylindrical subs
by
tang
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· Score: 1
I own the 20-39 pci (its 39 inches tall and is tuned to 20hz). The best sub I've owned hands down, it uses little space, since its so tall, and is awesome for home theater, and it's very musical too, altho I tend to keep it turned down pretty low due to my taste in music. I can recommend one 200%.
That is just a box
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
He did not build a sub, he built a box. There is a big difference. If anyone is interested in a custom made sub, do a web search, Richard Clark built a sub with a diameter of over 50 inches.
nuttin special
by
Skal+Tura
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· Score: 1, Insightful
There isn't anything special on making a woofer by yourself, first i thought that the dude made the element by himself but naawh...
You really don't need much skill to make a subwoofer, just some maths and a little skills to make the casing.
If you have proper tools it shouldn't even take long for an experienced woofer builder. With experienced i mean knowing the little tips & tricks to avoid hazzle and problems.
tho, that woofer probably sounds nice but there isn't anything special... i wonder where./ is going with news like this, do they wanna do a news report when i assemble my next woofer? lol
Or perhaps some of my other projects like liquid cooling to make cpu run at -15 to -10 celsius degrees, or perhaps mobo box sized server...
NOTE TO MODDERS: I didn't want to troll but there simply isn't any idea to report stuff like this, there isn't anything special on making a subwoofer by yourself.
Mislead and then let down by /. yet again!
by
Nemith
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· Score: 1
When i first read the title to this story, I said to myself, "Wow, some guy actually hacked together some magnets and other supplies and built his own subwoofer!" But it's just an enclosure!
Wow, so what he built his own enclosure. This is common practice in both home and car audio and hardly worth the post on/.
I build an enclosure for 2 subwoofers for my car when I was 16 years old. It's not hard, and there are many MANY pages just like this one out on the web.
Another in a long line of "You can, but should you?" projects. Well if you can handle power tools, and a couple of simple caculations to get the right enclosure and port size for your subwoofer, then HELL YES! I still have mine in my car that are custom fit, and sounds better than the cheap enclosure i had before. I even used pvc pipe as the ports:P
wow, staggers the mind!
by
Meowharishi
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· Score: 1
Imagine a beowulf cluster of these!! hooo-yeah baby!! uh uh uh love that pussy!!
-- mje0w!!!1!
Ha! That's nothing!
by
Noose+For+A+Neck
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· Score: 3, Informative
Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason
by
mhesseltine
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· Score: 3, Informative
I own the 4th and 5th editions of this book, and it has everything you would ever want on enclosure design. You can pick it up from Crutchfield, or I'm sure Amazon, Barnes and Noble, etc. should carry it.
Might as well build a waveguide
by
flyneye
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· Score: 1
might as well get 15' of 10" PVC put a 10" woof appr.2/3 the way down(go get specs yourself) and get bass to stir your guts.
-- *Repent!Quit Your Job!Slack Off!The World Ends Tomorrow and You May Die!
Re:Might as well build a waveguide
by
GigsVT
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· Score: 1
At a couple frequencies.
That tube is only going to resonate at a few frequencies that are harmonics of each other. Yeah, you will hit one certain spot really really hard, but other frequencies will be attenuated.
-- I've had enough abrasive sigs. Kittens are cute and fuzzy.
Re:Might as well build a waveguide
by
flyneye
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· Score: 1
well yeah,figure up the specs for something around 32hz and throw on bachs toccatta and fugue.bumpin the eq around the freq. you tuned the waveguide to kinda helps.(course most folk would be happy with somethin around 50hz,but hey make it go mooooo) i got another tuned woof plan that puts a 15" in the top of an openhead drum and tunes by filling drum with water till its where you want it.of course you could split hairs all day but this really is projects for experementation. if you want audiophile go spend the money.
-- *Repent!Quit Your Job!Slack Off!The World Ends Tomorrow and You May Die!
What about free-air subwoofers?
by
Mustang+Matt
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· Score: 2
They have no enclosure!
Regardless, why is this a big deal? I used to build boxes back in high school. They usually sounded awful but not always. Just had to get them sealed up and calculate the dimensions properly.
I had two JL 10W1's that sounded pretty good for a relatively cheap speaker.
-- The man who trades freedom for security does not deserve nor will he ever receive either. - Benjamin Franklin
Re:What about free-air subwoofers?
by
EastCoastSurfer
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· Score: 2
They have no enclosure!
Not exactly. Free air subs just don't have to be boxed, but they still need an enclosure. Most of the time these are used in cars and the trunk actually becomes the enclosure.
Re:What about free-air subwoofers?
by
dohcvtec
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· Score: 1
That would be the infinite baffle configuration. The baffle/mounting plate for the woofer is sized such that the waves from the back of the cone don't reach around to the front of the baffle in time to cancel out the front wave.
-- -- Never hit a man with glasses. Hit him with a baseball bat.
One 26 inch home-brew subwoofer, coming right up!. They built it with the driver from an ancient hard drive. For those not up on Norse mythology, moljnir (several spellings seen) was the unstoppable hammer of the gods, carried by Thor himself. I'd say a building-shaking sub comes pretty close to that description.;-)
This is an article on how to build a sub box, not the speaker itself. Many people build their own sub boxes, this is a pretty nice one from what I can see, but its not much different then whats in the trunks of many people across the world today..
more like...
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
you can, but why fucking bother?
sigh.
sometimes DIY is not better. if your time is worth $50 an hour, spend it better buying one if it takes more than an hour to make one. don't be a jerkoff.
You Have Got To Be Kidding Me
by
thelizman
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· Score: 2
You call this news? Is SlashDot that hard up (or worse, flaccid) that this page worthy of being posted?
There are many fine sites out there with information on building subwoofer enclosures. While the construction of this one was fairly robust and adequate, the design will likely have a very poor response. There are too many no-no's here to cover for a SlashDot comment. Y'all should try some real sites for a start:
Upcoming Article On Slashdot
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
CD Racks - Methods and practices of mounting on walls.
Re:Upcoming Article On Slashdot
by
fishnuts
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· Score: 0, Flamebait
Without the essential instructions on finding studs to mount to, of course.
this is*BOOOOOMMMMM* sweet!
by
drik00
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· Score: 1
This is *BOOOOOMMMMM*cool cool, I think *BOOOOOMMMMM* i'm gonna try it *BOOOOOMMMMM* for my home *BOOOOOMMMMM* theatre!! The low end *BOOOOOMMMMM* would add a*BOOOOOMMMMM* lot to the experience*BOOOOOMMMMM*.
J*BOOOOOMMMMM*
*BOOOOOMMMMM*
-- Beer, now there's a temporary solution -- Homer Jay S.
Wouldn't this design inherently suck?
by
sakusha
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· Score: 3, Interesting
I'm no acoustic engineer, but it seems you'd have to do some calculations to make sure the resonant cavity matches up to the speaker. I don't see any evidence that he's done any calculations whatsoever. How would you go about determining the optimal size and shape of the cabinet? Or does it not matter on such low freqs?
Re:Wouldn't this design inherently suck?
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Who cares? Electronics are so cheap now, he just pumps up the power, gets a bigger driver, whatever. They want it NOW, and they want MORE.
Do you really picture a snotty 18 year old ricer breaking out the HP calculator and a piece of paper?
Like a friend of mine told me, about building your own hi-fi enclosures, even if you only have a woofer, if you pump up the power the highs will eventually come out of there.
There is one trick to doing this right
by
Dr.+Spork
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· Score: 4, Informative
This guy is obviously a pretty weak hardware hacker. I say "obviously" because if he knew what he were doing, his construction page would be covered with formulas about material desity, air volume, port circumferance, port length, and many other tuning-related issues. It look to me like this guy thought of a design that seemed right a priori, bought a driver, and started cutting. Pathetic!
This has to be the worst Slashdot how-to ever. There is absolutely nothing geeky about doing it blind like this, especially considering how much information is available about doing it the right way. So kids, don't do this at home; do better!
Wouldn't this design inherently suck?
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 2, Funny
What? Do you think this is for listening to MUSIC or something?
Poor chap
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
This poor chap must have thought "I don't need no stinking math, for a living I'll build custom subwoofer enclosures and sell them!" Now you're telling him he needs math for that too.
This is truly pathetic
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
With the knowledge that I'm being redundant, this is perhaps one of the most irrelevant things I have ever seen on Slashdot. I would rather see nothing at all than a link on how to build a speaker cabinet. Nerds and powertools do not mix.
Sure, I could just stop viewing Slashdot, but I would miss the thousands of asinine comments that make me feel like a normal person. Instead, I have chosen to join the ranks of people who actually believe that anyone else on the Internet gives a damn what they think.
Ladies and Gentlemen, Slashdot has reached a new low (and not just because I've finally posted a comment).
Re:This is truly pathetic
by
Crusty+Oldman
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· Score: 0, Troll
Just so they understand that they really suck: I agree with you!
Re:This is truly pathetic
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Why is it that almost every article I read has 70-bazillion (rough estimate) comments complaining that the article isn't news? What's the point of that? You're obviously not accomplishing anything by posting, because you'll inevitably come back the next day and find 10 more articles that you don't consider news.
Ooooh, for a moment when they said "Build your own subwoofer," I thought they meant out of spare parts at home.
Actually, he meant, out of parts taken from another subwoofer...
See what happens when you have old episodes of MacGyver on tape?
MacGyver could break out of a turkish prison with a straw and a toothpick...
I think I'll keep my JBL SB-5
by
Openadvocate
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· Score: 2
I think I'll keep my JBL SB-5. I can deliver all those sounds that you can't hear but feel.:) A cool device with 4 speakers inside where they are facing eachother 2 by 2 in 3 chambers. PDF tech doc.
I have built subs for my car, but the only problems is that even when you get the sizes calculations right, it just doesn't always sound right. So this time I have settled with a pre-built one, the advantage here was the I tried a few in my car to find the one that sounded right in my car.
-- my sig
Re:I think I'll keep my JBL SB-5
by
Levine
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· Score: 2
According to that spec sheet of yours, that subwoofer is terrible! I hope you didn't spend a whole lot of money on it, because about all it's good for is impressing people by telling them it has four drivers in it.
Lowest frequency at 45Hz? Are you kidding? Any shoddy, thrown together homebuilt sub can handle at least 35, and ones like this guy has built can hit low 20's and high teens without a lot of effort.
Regards, levine
Too bad more highschoolers dont read /.
by
NeoSkandranon
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· Score: 5, Funny
about 300 people out of my 1400 member highschool could have gotten alot out of this article..or rather the comments. they all seem to be of the mind that you can throw a pair of 15" subs in a plywood box and throw it in the back of your car, and then they wonder why it sounds like an amplified fart when the bass hits.
-- If you can't see the value in jet powered ants you should turn in your nerd card. - Dunbal (464142)
Re:Too bad more highschoolers dont read /.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Yes, and a lot (notice how it is two words) of people (including yourself) at your highschool appear to not know correct English.
Re:Too bad more highschoolers dont read /.
by
packeteer
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· Score: 1
Well i am in high school and im glad i read this. I am personally not one who wants nothign but earth shattering base so i guess ill look elsware for my DIY sub project. Since i have been looking around for a set of new speakers when i saw the article my heart skipped a beat. Beleive me wheni say i was dissapointed to see nothing about building your own subwoofer at all. There are plenty of classmates of mine who show me their "new car sub" which either sits int he trunk or under the back seat and sounds like muffled cars crashing. Well this is too bad because i am willing to spend t he time to do it right. Are there any better links you know of to teach me?
Acoustic suspension
by
Alien+Being
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· Score: 3, Interesting
In the 20 or so years that i've been listening to them, subs which use relatively small, high-excursion drivers in a sealed enclosure have been the best, especially for percussion. They need more power, but it's worth it.
Ported subs just don't seem to have the *punch*, and it's tiring to listen to music which has a lot of info near the resonant freq of the port.
Re:Acoustic suspension
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
having built (with all the associated TS based driver measurement and calculations in home-built rigs) several of both designs, I'd tend to agree. As far as I've heard, sealed is the way to go, everything else is an excuse to spend less on amps.
The last line on the website.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
What was it the last line on their website said?
Something about it controlling his pacemaker and a a heavy load on the machine could be fatal to the webmaster?.
me too
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
I thought so too.. I was expecting a homebrew subwoofer. Like building the subwoofer, not an enclosure. What a rip.
This article should just be deleted now. There's like 10,000 articles all over the place on how to build enclosures. dammit.
"Morons, your train is leaving"
Re:lol wot a crock of shit
by
narkotix
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· Score: 0
my subs are in the back of my jeep...took the seat out and put in 2 x soundstream spl160 subwoofers running off 2 phoenix gold amps
-- We played dungeons and dragons for 3 hours.....then i was slain by an elf
I read at +3
by
gmhowell
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· Score: 3, Informative
I read at +3, so I might not have seen a link to this project. Have no idea if it is any good, but it's certainly cheaper than many other options.
(For those not wishing to slashdot OSDN, it's for gspeaker, a gpl software for determining speaker enclosure sizes)
-- Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
Re:I read at +3
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
If you read at +3 then you must miss your own posts, except when crackheads mod you up.
No Frequency Response readout
by
TOOSuave
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· Score: 1
The whole project is pointless without knowing what kind of frequency response this enclosure will supply. It will most likely be very loose bass looking at the basic setup (Not good for sound quality and not good for accuratly reproducing the sounds created by musical instruments). I would be supprised if the whole thing is really cost effective once you add up the price of the parts+time+block amp. Audio equipment is heavily marked up (Around 250%) But this is probably a hard area to beat the price/performance available in the store.
Blue LEDs! Add some of those and you have a geek worthy article.
Want to build your own sub?..
by
matguy
·
· Score: 3, Interesting
You're much better off scrapping the whole cone idea and go for a vane/cylinder design. They're much easier to build and often give much better results in a homebrew situation. Try here for some explaination: http://www.mindspring.com/~sdinc/pages/td_new_fam. html
I may be opening a social club in the not-so-near future. Among the various plans in getting the place up and running, one of the things I'm concerned about is the audio.
I could go the conventional route and just hang a bunch of Peaveys around the place, but I'm also considering using a big subwoofer under the stage and mid/high speakers on the walls and hung from the ceiling instead. I think this might give better audio quality as well as being easier to do -- not to mention safer, wouldn't want those big speakers falling down.
Does anyone have recommendations on such a setup? Are there any subwoofer speakers available that can handle a large space?
Re:club audio project
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Maybe an array of subs under the stage. I'm not a fan of Peavey's either. Find something better.
Go ask the guys at www.live-audio.com.
Re:club audio project
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Check out the mackie range of kit they do a nice range of bass cabs with mid / high suspended drivers although you will need to really get your venue checked out properly with a specalist.
Remember they can tell you what you need n then you go and get it cheaper yourself;-)
You can, but should you?
by
Winterblink
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· Score: 1
If this is another in a line of "You can, but you should you?" projects, can we get a topic for all of these to go under so I can filter them off the homepage? I'm getting tired of seeing crap like this subwoofer thing, and others like "Here's how I made my kid's jungle gym into a water cooling setup for my Athlon".
-- "I'm a leaf on the wind. Watch how I soar."
-Hoban Washburn
First Open Firmware Post
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
DEFAULT CATCH
Re:My opinion.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Mod this up. Mod it up to 5. Mod it up to 12. Force everyone on the planet to read it. Ain't it cool!
Who said this was insightful? (Re:What is missing)
by
snookerdoodle
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· Score: 2
I hate to poo poo someone, but you poo poo'ed the guy's web site. If you use the Shiva driver he did, and build it like he did, YOU DON'T NEED NO STINKING VARIABLES OR CALCULATIONS!
Personally, I preferred the NHT, but "whatever floats yer boat", or, in my case, "whatever shakes yer gutters off the house". And yes, it really did.;-(
I agree that this is hardly news, but it's not a bad little diy thing, either.
Mark
and acoustic-visions.com
by
renehollan
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· Score: 2
Kyle Richardson at Acoustic Visions makes custom subwoofers. He made one for me with which I am very satisfied: see here.
Note: I have no affiliation with Acoustic Visions other than a very satisfied customer.
BTW, I am now a nerd for hire. See here if you're looking -- would accept H1B transfer or TN1, preferably in the Dallas area or relo back to Canada.
Re:no it's really more like...
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
that you're telling me scratching your bum and picking your ear is worth $50 an hour? get real... most of the time you spend not doing anything can be put into something more productive.
Not worth posting!
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Not only this is this article devoid of any useful information for creating an enclosure, but the end product being promoted is probably worth less than the materials used for construction.
Now, if you want to post a link about how to build a ported, tuned, quad-driver system with 4 15" Earthquake Magmas running 4000 watts RMS, THAT'S something I'll read about. Otherwise, wait for some real news before posting.
People in glass houses...
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fmaxwell
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· Score: 2
Yes, and a lot (notice how it is two words) of people (including yourself) at your highschool appear to not know correct English.
If you are going to criticize written English, you better be a whole lot more careful. I took the liberty of using boldface to highlight your errors. "It" refers to a single thing and, thus, cannot be "two words." You should have said "notice how 'a lot' is two words". Note that the word "yourself" is boldfaced. The proper word to use there is "you." Would you say "yourself appear to not know correct English"?
While perhaps syntactically correct, "to not know correct English" is clumsy -- to say the least. You should have ended the sentence with something like "to be incapable of writing English correctly."
Ignoring your poor sentence construction and grammatical mistakes, you reasoning is flawed. You claim that "a lot" of people from his high school write poorly, yet you have only read his writing. You have no way to know how the other students write.
Still feeling cocky?
Re:People in glass houses...
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Galvatron
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· Score: 1
"appear to not know correct English" isn't just clumsy, it contains a split infinitive. Granted, ever since Star Trek ("to boldly go"), split infinitives aren't as frowned upon as they once were, but it's still wrong. "Appear not to know correct English" would be better, though as you say, still a tad clumsy.
-- "The question of whether a computer can think is no more interesting than that of whether a submarine can swim" -EWD
Re:People in glass houses...
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smithmc
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· Score: 1
While perhaps syntactically correct, "to not know correct English" is clumsy...
It's not syntactically correct. "To not know" is a split infinitive. (Remember those?)
-- Downmodding is the refuge of the weak. Don't downmod, make a better argument!
... thanks for all the destructive criticism. If you knew anything about "material desity, air volume, port circumferance, port length, and many other tuning-related issues." you should say so or point to a page you have that says so, right? If you read the article, you might have noticed how the author points to one of the many useful pages on how to do things "right".
Your post has to be the worst Slashdot troll ever. Wait, I just did the same thing to you! The difference between you and me and the author of the article and slashdot is that the author and Slashdot have put up.
Me, one day I'll spend $60 for a cheap boomer that comes with it's own amp. I applaud the author for doing better.
-- DMCA, Hollings, Palladium. What might have sounded like paranoia is now common sense.
I have no problem with people putting loudpeakers into anything. I mean, if you don't want to read up on the math and you have the cash to blow on trial and error, go nuts!
My objection this: Of all the thousands of how-to pages available on the internet, why did this one make it to the front page of Slashdot? A subpoint was that if the guy had discussed his work from a "nerd" angle, it would have made a good/. piece. As it was, I thought it failed as slashdot material, and I still stand by this.
I did indeed notice that the author points to a page where a more careful procedure is explained, and that just makes things worse. Why wasn't that page the subject of the/. article? Still better stuff is available, and I'm sure Google would help you find some of it, but that's not what I would do. When I was designing my speakers I actually (gasp) WENT TO THE LIBRARY! Do people still know how to use these? Anyway, I'd be shocked if there were stuff on the internet that comes close to the quality of what's published in peer-reviewed journals.
In any case, I made my speakers the nerdy way, and that should be the/. way. I don't want this place to degenerate into "news for short-attention-span nerds." For example, if there are speaker how-to's posted, they shouldn't gloss over the very stuff that distinguishes a crappy speaker enclosure from an outstanding one.
This Slashdot Article is rated
by
buswolley
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· Score: 1
Interesting -1
Informative -1
Insightful-1
Troll -1
Flamebait -1
Funny +1 ----
Still totals: -4 eek
Slashdot is becoming the equiv of a dumbed down sesame st or what?
I built a hack job box like that when i was in H.S. There are thousands of people designing better amatuer boxes. There are tons of info on the net about acoustics,design theory etc.
This article is like what you see in fron of AMPM every graveyard.
this article.
--
A Good Troll is better than a Bad Human.
whine away
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Typical slashdotter: This sucks, the guy should be shot, I'm better than you and everyone else, blah blah blah.
Whatever happened to insiteful comments, gues they take TIME and THOUGHT.
Great, just what the world needs, another annoying contraption to piss off the neighbors. Here's an idea, get these new subwoofer earbuds that I've invented and go blow out your own eardrums.
Re:Who said this was insightful? (Re:What is missi
by
divide+overflow
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· Score: 1
I don't consider pointing such things out as "poo-pooing" his site. And you can't even "build the unit like he did" (your words) using the information on his page because he didn't even say *anything* about the *tube* he used to create his unit--the single largest component. Nothing about the diameter, thickness, density, length, or even who makes it. This is rather odd given that he went into PLENTY of detail about certain construction details.
Again, the page didn't provide adequate information to build it the unit, much less determine if it was properly designed.
My first speaker was a smack horn. The effiency of a horn is much higher than a closed or ported speaker. I got 104 Db at 1 Watt at 1 meter when a normal speaker only makes about 90 Db. Since Decibel is not linear thats a very big difference. Need i to say that it was well worth the hassle? My old Marantz tuner could play the pants of off any mates systems even if it only had 100 Watt output because of the high efficiency of the speakers.
To build a complicated case is more expensive for a speaker manufacturer than to put in a speaker element that handles higher power. For your amplifier its better to have a nicer load.
Now that you've built your own subwoofer, you can cover the higher audio range with a custom made plasma speaker!
--
"Leave the strategizing to those of us with planet-sized brains." -Tycho
Just had to say something on this topic.
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
This sub will kick the crap out of any commercial subwoofer less than $1000 (exceptions would be SVS and Hsu Research, but it would still be half the price of the subs from these manufactures that would compete with it). This isn't the car audio crowd who love to pay way too much for crap drivers with pretty logos. This is a Home Theater enthusiast who took the time to do the research and consult those who knew what they were doing.
This guy didn't care to know the theory behind the design, he wanted a good sub on the cheap. The "Patman" referred to is a moderator on Home Theater Forum who really knows his stuff. Patman would have modelled an excellent enclosure design for James and he simply built it. I'm sure Patman could provide me the specifics if I asked, but from looking at the pages I can tell you it will be an EBS allignment tuned to 20hz or lower. Powered with anything over 200W it will be very impressive. Being an EBS allignment using an Adire Shiva driver with ample porting it will also qualify as an audiophile quality sub. Boom box this is not. This is tight accurate bass way above the vast majority of commercial subs.
The fact is most commercial subs have serious design flaws. Their enclosures are too small, they are underported (don't have enough Vp with a passive radiator design) and are tuned too high or have a sealed Q that is too high. You'd also be surprised if you saw the actual quality of most commercial sub drivers. Most of this is a result of size and cost constraints placed on the designers. Keep in mind that a sub that sells at a retailer for $1000 likely cost the manufacture less than $200 to make (add $300 for shipping, infrastructure costs, then double it again for dealer mark up for their infrastructure costs).
$300 spent on a DIY sub will compete with commercial subs at the $1000 or more price point. Spend $700 on a dual Adire Tempest sonosub and 250W per channel pro amp and pretty much nothing commercial under $5000 will be able to compete (output wise, sound quality will depend on what allignment you choose). Get up in the $2000 range and nothing commercial will compete, period. Build a multiple driver (4-12) infinite baffel or dipole sub and you will be in a league of bass never dreamed of from commercial manufactures. In the next 6 months Adire and Stryke will also be releasing some new drivers that will allow DIY subs to widen the price/performance gap with commercial subs even further.
Those saying you can take drivers purchased at Radio Shack or your typical car audio sub are kidding themselves. You'll get a sub that can compete with the cheap commercial stuff, but nothing remotely close to what James has built.
Those suggesting building your own driver are also kidding themselves. The materials needed to make a good quality driver are not something you can just slap together in your garage. If you just wanna have some fun a learn something go for it. If you want to produce a sub you'll actually want to use, get a proven driver (Adire, Stryke, Blueprint, Lambda, Dayton DVC or Titanic, etc). However if you want to get into the design of drivers there are a few driver manufacturing houses that will do a production run on a design with as few as 25 units.
If you want a sub without the compromises made in almost all commercial sub designs take a look at the post that gives links to AVS and Home Theater Forum. Those links will lead you to everything you need to know to build an incredible sub (design software, theory, good drivers and amps, enclosure construction technics, etc).
If you don't have the ability to build your own, SVS or Hsu Research are IMHO the best values out there in commercial subs with the fewest compromises (unless you can afford to start spending well in excess of $2000 without batting an eye).
To Boldly Split Infinitives...
by
fmaxwell
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· Score: 2
It's not syntactically correct. "To not know" is a split infinitive. (Remember those?)
Actually, it is correct. In 1998, the influential New Oxford Dictionary of English admitted that "in standard English the principle of allowing split infinitives is broadly accepted as both normal and useful."
Re:To Boldly Split Infinitives...
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smithmc
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· Score: 1
Actually, it is correct. In 1998, the influential New Oxford Dictionary of English admitted that "in standard English the principle of allowing split infinitives is broadly accepted as both normal and useful."
Yet another example of the English language devolving into a pidgin lingua franca. "Normal"? Probably, at least in the US. "Useful"? Why? In what way is splitting an infinitive more "useful" than putting the words in the correct order?
-- Downmodding is the refuge of the weak. Don't downmod, make a better argument!
Re:To Boldly Split Infinitives...
by
fmaxwell
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· Score: 2
Yet another example of the English language devolving into a pidgin lingua franca.
The split infinitive "rule" was invented in the 19th century by classically obsessed scholars who wanted English to be like Latin and Greek (whose one-word infinitives cannot be split). Here's what the Merriam-Webster Dictionary of English Usage says: "The objection to the split infinitive has never had a rational basis."
In what way is splitting an infinitive more "useful" than putting the words in the correct order?
First, either construction is "correct." Second, splitting infinitives often allows one to construct sentences that flow much better. For example, let's take the famous Star Trek opening:
"...to boldly go where no man has gone before."
The linguist David Crystal correctly noted that the original Star Trek television series would have lost something if the mission of the Enterprise had been "boldly to go where no man has gone before." Crystal observed that to boldly go has an iambic, and therefore more natural, rhythm.
Following arbitrary rules concocted by 19th century scholars is not something for which you should take great pride.
He didn't build the speaker, he built the enclosure for it.
In any case, he used the Shiva II woofer, which I believe is only available without an enclosure, although there are some places making enclosures and selling them with Shiva's already in them. This woofer is around $100 if I remember right, and outperforms many premade commercial products by a longshot. If you know how to use a saw and some basic tools, this woofer is definitely the way to go. I think audioreview.com has some user comments on it, almost all of them positive.
-- Need Free Juniper/NetScreen Support? JuniperForum
Your statement makes as much sense as the following:
"He didn't build the computer, he built the case for it."
A loudspeaker includes a number of components. A driver, such as the Shiva contraption, is one of them. A box is another.
He assembled these components together. He built a speaker.
Your next statement is similarly non-sensical. I'll convert it to an analog which you might understand:
"...he used the BP-6 motherboard, which I believe is only available seperately, although there are some places building and selling computers with BP-6 motherboards already in them."
Does this statement not disprove itself? Or is there some magic additive which must be included in a loudspeaker/white-box computer before it may be considered as a whole instead the sum of its parts?
Is it a pre-requisite that such finished products carry an endorsement from Apple or Sony before they are recognizably complete systems? Or perhaps some other subtle nuance I've managed to miss in my many years of building complete systems myself?
Please explain further. I fear that if you're correct, my speakers and my computers may suddenly disintegrate themselves into seperate parts.
Contrabass subwoofer
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
I can't find it anymore, but there was info around on building your own subwoofer from rotary actuator motors, similar to the Mjolnir. Here's a link: http://www.mindspring.com/~sdinc/pages/contra_pu.h tml
They used to have diagrams for which parts you needed, etc. The rub was that a single ~2 cubic foot box with 2 x 12" pistons would equal something like 8 15" standard woofers.
Re:What is missing (a book)
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
If you want to know all the theory behind a subwoofer (and other enclosures too) you can go at this site. It explains everything (but in french). May be you can try the fish on it it should be ok.
Btw if someone wants to translate it in english i'm sure the author will be ok. The author distributes this book freely.
An interesting a do-it-yourself project, but can you talk with elephants using it, let alone load it into an Isuzu Trooper?
That seems to have been the going standard for servo-driven loudspeakers for a decade or two.
I had the unique experience of sitting rather directly beside a (somewhat lesser, but similar) dual-cone 15" unit for an evening as I played DJ. I'll spare the details, but do allow me to say that visiting The Throne after returning home that night after having everything homogenized (shaken, not stirred) by the subwoofers was uniquely euphoric experience.
[I'd include more prominent links to Intersonics/Servo-Drive, who still sells these monsters. But their web page is "currently down for reconstruction." Dumb shits. Their old page was at least informative, not to mention existant. groups.google.com for more information, I guess...]
buy your own subwoofer
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
next week's article on slow news day
Now, now, be nice to the poor Slashdotties
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Dump not upon the fools who know not of our ancient order, for their ignorance is as the ignorance of ten because they spend their days in idle pursuit of First post!. They are Slashdotties, and know no better.
For theirs is the kingdom of Sitonyourasses, and they live only at second hand; so then, should it not bedazzle them when one not so different than they - for, sooth, did he not make a web page of his Big Adventure, to share it with those who but sit and stroketh the keys? - getteth up off of his ass and actually maketh something besides loud whining and stenchful air? To them, he is a wonder and a marvel, a prodigy of individual empowerment, one who has freed himself from the bondage of the Stereo Store, at least in this one small way.
Remember thou who hast a life: to the Slashdottie all is vicarious entertainment. How then should they find it within themselves to resist the lure of a web page, which they can view without discommoding themselves even a jot, about a component to help them feel the diverting special effects in the next Hollywood Smash Hit For The Stupid And Incurably Lifeless? It is almost as good as yet another piece of Star Wars advertisement - your pardon, I meant to say news, of course - the likes of which they cannot stand to pass a day without.
You can go to any neighborhood radio shack and get a book on doing all of your stereo building. A quick search through online book catalogues will reveal many books on the subject.
I was always taught that highschool is actually two words, high and school.
Re:Insert foot in mouth
by
Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Two words for "high school" does make sense -- the drugs part and then the education part.
How did this get posted?
by
mduckworth
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· Score: 1
He built the speaker enclosure, big deal. And it's not even finished. Any idiot can build a speaker box, but he didn't even build it a specification for appropriate bass tuning. I thought he was building the driver - much more interesting;-)
In woodworking a router is a device that is used to cut a channel or groove out of a solid block of wood. You can see some from Craftsman here, they are generally held with the cutting blade down, the cutting blade is in the center of the bottom of the device, and dragged around along your desired line or edge. Its use very similar to the triming of a large whole with a dremel, but designed to leave a better line than I can do with a dremel, there are hundreds of bits to leave various edges.
-- Degaussing scares the bad magnetism out of the monitor and fills it with good karma.
The guy didn't even put spikes on for feet. I would love to see this perform on a wood floor. It would be all over the place w/ that flat board as the bass.
Surely not slashdot material!!!
next...
Re:No spikes?
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
Spikes are only really useful for foward firing subs sitting on carpet (or something else plush). On a hard wood floor your best option with that sub would be to go and spend a couple bucks on some rubber sticky feet. After that it would do just fine.
Re:Check out Hometheaterforum.com (slightly OT)
by
kilonad
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· Score: 1
A google search yields about 105,000 results with the words "DIY" and "linux," so why should this be considered any less newsworthy?
Sure, building your own subwoofer might not be news, and it might not be a new idea, but until Slashdot gets a "really cool stuff that doesn't quite qualify as news but it's still for nerds" section, the front page will have to do.
Yes, you should build speakers. Building speakers is a terrific geek pastime.
No, this guy's speakers aren't that great.
There are some good points, however. He's doing nothing of note constructionwise, but the larger choice of the sonotube has significant advantages and disadvantages. Big plus: tube shape means walls CANNOT flex from pressure. That allows for potentially thunderous reproduction of the sound coming out, without overhang or weakening of the fundamental. Big minus: the sound coming out is strongly colored by the inside of the enclosure being the second worst possible shape in the universe- worst is a sphere. Testing has shown that these shapes are the best possible for the outside of an enclosure, but the worst for the inside.
What I've found works best for really serious bass is multiple drivers of gradiated sizes. My mains are running 6.5/8/10/12 drivers series-parallel like a Marshall cab- wattage is comparable to four of the weakest speaker (6.5) series-parallel, because that's the one that'd blow first. I have a narrow but absurdly deep cabinet, internal walls, bottom two sections ported and the top two open-backed. I had acoustic foam in there but found that it sounded better in the mids to leave it totally open, since all the resonance and reverberation goes straight out the back. The bottom, with the 10 and 12, has two good-sized ports, but since the box is so big (and it's running acoustic suspension drivers, too) the port only extends the lows further- it is not tuned high enough to make 'one note bass', it's reinforcing the really extreme lows.
If you want a REAL geek audio project, make some supertweeters like I did. Small piezo drivers (I'm using some fairly rigid and tough-to-solder-to ones I got in bulk), mount them on something solid while leaving the middle free to flex (rigid mounting like superglue, not a soft gasket), and then take some envelopes with that clear cellophane stuff that crackles easily if you rumple it. Cut out rectangular pieces big enough that you can make an 'M'- you're going to be making a degradation of the Lineaum cylindrical driver. That requires a piece to translate piezo flex into true linear motion- as shown in the *spit* patent- this skips the bridge piece and applies flexing-disc vibration directly to the leaves of the driver. In doing so it fails to be a proper line source- but the weight of the moving mass is that much less!
Take two 'leaves' and superglue them together at the base. You can trim them a bit so there's a slight ) shape to the part that'll be glued to the piezo. Take a bit of acoustic foam, superglue the outside of the sandwich of cellophane on one side to it, attach it to the speaker to the side of the piezo (which you should have wired up already). Then do the same to the other side- you want a 'm', seen from the top, with the middle bit resting directly on the piezo. The 'm' shouldn't be too tall, but it does have to form full half-cylinders- it shouldn't be flat. Finally, if it's all good, put a dot of superglue on the middle of the piezo, and allow the center of the 'm' to be attached permanently.
How it works: pressure from the piezo displaces the cellophane. Since it's two loose semicylinders, it flexes, choosing to compress together at first rather than shift the whole structure outwards. Surprise! The semicylinders form an exponential horn- and you've just compressed the throat, forcing air out! In addition, the wave will travel outward from the center, until it dissipates by air resistance and eventually the acoustic foam mounting at the far end. This tweeter goes up forever, way beyond CD capabilities, very cleanly, and it also has phenomenal dispersion characteristics- very wide soundfield, virtually no beaming. The difference is not subtle.
In a perfect world, lots of people could work with this technique and develop it as free software is developed. I've seen the patents on the _refined_ version of this- involving a bridge piece between the (not truly linear) driver and the base of the cylinders- and until the patents expire, this is officially proprietary.
I am sure that will dissuade MANY slashdotters from getting cellophane, piezos and superglue, and building their own supertweeters. Don't you people know developing on ideas someone else had is wrong? Remember, whoever-it-was who said, "If I have failed to see farther, it is because I wasn't allowed to stand on anybody's shoulders, so there";)
Why have I taken so much effort to communicate this technique? Because I'm a speaker designer myself. I have numerous ideas that are in fact mine, and hybrids of those with things like the Linaeum cylindrical driver, some of which are just terrific. And I'm very annoyed by a reality in which I cannot function as a simple artisan and idea-haver, without patent-wrestling with corporations- and in which I can't even go ahead with my own stuff, as corporations will take anything that's really good, and patent it since I won't, possibly even stopping me from using something I've invented. It makes you want to hide and never build anything.
There's nothing to do but go ahead anyway, but understand that my 'outing' of a homebrew way to do a degraded form of the Lineaum piezo driver patent is a combination of 'power to the people' and simple bitterness. What would have happened if the person to make the first cone driver had locked it up with patents, filed extensions, retained control of it to the present day? There'd be virtually no speakers, is what.
I feel the ideas that MOST deserve patent protection are the ones that most harm the scientific environment through their being guarded by lawyers. 'swinging sideways on a swing' patents are harmless. The ones that are REALLY GOOD are the ones that NEED to disseminate out into society.
....which only goes to show that I need to be using more of my paid-for web space to publicize the work that _I_ do, with no hope of recompense, ever, just to remain true to the principles I've set out. Other people do that- it's not unique to do so. It's merely taking sides, knowingly or unknowingly.
Re:YES
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Anonymous Coward
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· Score: 0
A cylinder or a sphere may be a bad internal shape for speakers (although this one could be argued too, nOrh would definately disaggree), but for subwoofers nothing could be farther from the truth. Unless your cylinder or sphere's diameter is larger than 5' it won't be an issue. The wave lengths covered by a subwoofer are just too long. So in the dimensions that a sub enclosure will be your coloration argument is way off (even if the dimensions are that large, some insulation, batting or cross bracing to break up the standing waves will solve the problem). There is no sound quality difference between a box, a cube, a cylinder or a sphere when dealing with subs (go ask Tom Nousaine or Tom Vodhanel). It's just that cylinders or spheres (no one commercially has done the sphere yet but there is talk someone might) are pretty much impossible to flex meaning they don't require the extensive bracing a box or cube would. Which makes them easier to build and lighter. Cheap to midrange sub boxes have poor construction (thin walls, little to no bracing) and the resulting flex is one of the major reasons they suck.
Also I find your gradation of smaller drivers amusing. How are you handling baffel step compenstaion, comb filtering effects, efficiency differences between the drivers, etc in your crossover without having a rediculously expensive crossover and loosing piles of power into it? If you don't have crossovers between them all and have them all playing the same frequencies, well simply, LOL.
Excellent commentary, I saved it permanently. I'm not so much interested in doing a sub myself, but I have owned horn enclosures powered by tube amps (aka "valves") in the past... and I wouldn't mind building another set of them. I can seriously recommend such a setup, perhaps with an "active" sub for truly crisp and clean audio. I've got to go find some links for that stuff... Klipsch or Altec come to mind, but I don't have that kind of spare cash anymore, bummer. I do have enough time and know-how to design and build though...
sonosubs are very popular in DIY home-theater circles. I built one myself and it's not that difficult at all. Sounds awesome and easily rivals subs that are over $2k +
Re:Check out Hometheaterforum.com (slightly OT)
by
spoco2
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· Score: 1
But it's not even a particularly new/clever/well presented/information rich example of a sub woofer either... the same type of sub design has been shown many, many times before... so why was this one posted on Slashdot?
Homemade Shiva-based subwoofer
by
beb
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· Score: 1
I spent WAY to many hours reading up on homemade subwoofer construction for my home A/V system, and settled on one somewhat like the one in the article. It took me and my Dad about 8-10 hours to build and cost around $250 US. With a cheap 150 watt Parasound it blows the doors off the house when cranked up (which I don't do often since I already have tinitus from my punk-rawk days) but can blend nicely for really smooth bass when listening to music.
woodwright shop is much better
by
zonker
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· Score: 0
yeah the woodwright shop is a much better and more interesting show because he likes to talk about how the various tools were invented, their history and all. besides, you can't say that a guy who makes his own tools isn't cool.
YOU TOO CAN MAKE BIG MONEY IN THE EXCITING FIELD OF PAPER SHUFFLING!
Mr. Smith of Muddle, Mass. says: "Before I took this course I used to be a lowly bit twiddler. Now with what I learned at MIT Tech I feel really important and can obfuscate and confuse with the best."
Mr. Watkins had this to say: "Ten short days ago all I could look forward to was a dead-end job as a engineer. Now I have a promising future and make really big Zorkmids."
MIT Tech can't promise these fantastic results to everyone, but when you earn your MDL degree from MIT Tech your future will be brighter.
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- this post brought to you by the Automated Last Post Generator...
Just because they are called 'forbidden' transitions does not mean that they are forbidden. They are less allowed than allowed transitions, if you see what I mean.
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- this post brought to you by the Automated Last Post Generator...
the days when you HAD to build your own car.
"linux is only free if your time has no value" - Jamie Zawinski
I thought it said build your own hebrew subwoofer!
Fat people are harder to kidnap.
He only built the enclosure ... I was expecting a 50Mb AVI of the guy winding the coil and magnetising the magnets.
I just want to see how he hacked a router to do that.
Kidding...I'm not that much of a geek.
I would have loved to see him try to build one out of parts of a microwave, stove, dishwasher, and drying machine while using a fridge to house it.
See what happens when you have old episodes of MacGyver on tape?
/^[A-Z0-9._%+-]+@[A-Z0-9.-]+\.[A-Z]{2,4}$/i
They are pretty simple to build and for $80 you can have a subwoofer that will make your whole body shake. I've seen it done.
How is this news? I like the article on how to do it, but I people have been building subs for a long long time. You can go to radioshack and buy everything you need to build a good sub. Optimus is not the greatest but Im sure you can get the encloserment and then go to a good speaker shop to buy a 12" sub speaker. Plus the 4 gage wire and blah blah blah.
Oh well. Cool article!
keanmarine.com
where xxxxx is some computer software thing. now
since this project uses wood and screws and drills,
slashdotter is gonna think 'oh my god! how do they do that'
but to people who do that sort of thing all the time,
this project is as though a throw-away perl script.
given a little basic wood and wood tool knowledge
this is not a humungous project (unlike
all the stuff that gets plastered
on freshmeat and slashdot every day, like
KDE, gnome, debian, redhat, and hundreds of
other projects that take inordaintely more
time than this project did)
Tumb!
This is some guys expierence making an ENCLOSURE. I got excited, wrapping a cone w/ wire, finding a good permenant magnet. NOPE - This is something that MANY MANY people have done. It is making a subwoofer that would be the challenge. Then again, making a proper enclosure isn't easy...
Next time get the title of the article right!
I was hoping this would talk a little more about the mechanical aspects of building the actual driver, instead of being mostly a guide to fitting a sub into a box. Or am I just missing something?
Here's another guide for building your own subwoofer.
The DIY section on avsforum also has some info.
DIY subwoofers is another place to start.
In fact a google search yields about 16,000 results with the words "DIY" and "subwoofer".
Which brings me to...
Is this really news?
-S
--- What parts of "shall make no law", "shall not be infringed", and "shall not be violated" don't you understand?
Subwoofers are one of the few things that home audio do-it-yourselfers can build that is at least somewhat cost-effective in terms of material, effort, and result (well, maybe planar ribbon loudspeakers, though the lines of magnets might be a bit of a pain). Put a nice, massive driver and bandpass filter into a well-dampened box of appropriate volume and spousal approval and you'll have something that not only adds to the depth of music, but will also give you a martini "shaken, not stirred" during your James Bond movie marathon. :)
This tagline is copyrighted material. Please send $10 for an affordable replacement.
its not that uncommon to build your own stereo equipment, people have been doing it for as long as there was stereos. In fact most car stereo junkies I know of build their own speaker boxes as it is much cheaper then paying someone else to do it and chances are will look better as it matches the look of your car. Had the guy made his own speaker I would be impressed
It must be a rediculously slow day for geek news.
There is a strong and thriving community of DIY audio enthusiasts. I myself built my own tube preamp, interconnects, and power amp. Try http://www.speakerbuilding.com/ for information about building speakers. For broader information, go to http://www.stereophile.com and click on "Links 2 Die 4" (the l337-ness is theirs, not mine) and then on the DIY link.
WTF does this have to do with anything intresting?
Every 16 year old with a ride builds his own for his car. You know... boooommm boom boom boom boooommmm
;-))
If they can, you can too. (And if you *can't*, please turn in your geek badge right now
Besides, your (legal, of course) MP3s and Quake III Arena will sound much better with one!
---
Information wants...you to shut your pie hole.
Sure, it's great that the guy documented his project so others could replicate it, but it might be more useful if he mentioned how he calculated the optimal port length. Specs on resonance frequency, Vas, power handling, and other things might be nice as well. Or why he chose a ported sub rather than an isobaric or sealed design or something else. Not that there's a correct choice, but knowing a little bit about how and why he made his decisions might help others down the line.
This sig intentionally left justified.
People have been doing this for a long time (Building ENCLOSURES, not subwoofers). All those little bassheads that you see going down the street with civics shaking the windows out of your house do it themselves. It's simple and easy, and most companies that sell subwoofers provide very detailed and specific guides (more than that page) about port length for ported boxes, volume calculations, building materials, construction methods, and countless other things. And boy, MDF is a bitch to work with.. you need a carbide blade for the saws, and screws strip SO easily. Not to mention MDF dust is very carcinogenic (search around google) and smells bad. Expect this thing to stink up wherever you put it for a while. Most of the guides are in PDF format (For car audio) from the major sub manufacturers' sites: www.kicker.com www.rockfordfosgate.com etc Forque (Chester Bochan)
Building a sub is a great project. As a single driver speaker, it requires no crossover, and therefore is relatively easy to design/build. Plus, with some careful planning, you can get amazing results.
/.
I've built a couple Subs based around the Shiva Mk II driver this guy used, along with a 250W plate amplifier from partsexpress, and it is amazing. Easily produces useable bass down to 20 hz in a sealed enclosure (F3 of something like 17.3 hz in a 1.7 cu ft. box, if I remember correctly...). An adire sub kit easily rivals subs in the $1000-$1200 range.
Listening to one of these explains why audiophiles don't like those Sat/sub computer multimedia sets, and tend to call them a "bunch of crap". None of them produce any useable bass below 50-60 hz, and a lot of HT systems are designed such that the sub only STARTS playing from those frequencies down.
Having said that, I don't see why this is front page news on
This is where I get my recommended daily allowance of "Foot in Mouth."
But, that's OK, considering all that will do is change the tuning frequency..
Quote:
---
The ports are 4" and flared from Madisound. They came with a short tube to connect them, but it wasn't long enough. I went to Home Depot and bought some 4" schedule 20 (the thin stuff) pvc and 4 schedule 20 4" couplings. I realized after sealing the sub up that I had mismeasured the ports and made them too long. But, after emailing Patman in panic, he assured me that the only thing that would change would be the tuning frequency.
---
So much for frequency response..
That's nothing special is it?
You can buy your own plans for tubes or boxes all over the place.
A subwoofer is the actual speaker which he just popped into place right?
You can even download software to help you download dimensions:
subwoofer enclosure software
The man who trades freedom for security does not deserve nor will he ever receive either. - Benjamin Franklin
There's more to building quality speakers then just mounting drivers in a box: particularly with ported designs. Building a sub with controlled, tight bass is the challenge; anyone can build a deafening "rumble box".
-Chris
--an unbreakable toy is useful for breaking other toys--
given the low price for a system these days and the crap sound you'll get if you do it wrong, buy an iSub and a couple of sound stix at the Apple store and save yourself a couple of years of apologising for the crappy looking cabinets.
MSBPodcast.com The opinions expressed here are my own. If you don't like 'em... Think up your own stuff.
This isn't even a good explanation for how to create a subwoofer enclosure. It is completely missing any information on the critical variables that describe the attributes of the low frequency driver as well as the procedure for designing the enclosure and crossover network to work with the driver to produce an optimized system. You can't just throw any old speaker into a given enclosure and expect a decent result. If you don't design the enclosure around the Thiele-Small parameters for the driver you put in it you are basically throwing the driver into a pretty box and ignoring the most important factors...how the completed system will perform.
And I wouldn't be a good slashdotter if I didn't mention are several computer programs that help with the design of speaker systems. They are really helpful for designing a subwoofer. I used such a program to design the subwoofer in my car.
Oh, and they are an Internet sale only company - you buy subwoofers directly from them, there are no other dealers between you and them.
And I don't own a SVS ... yet ^_^ (and neither do I work for them)
He did not build a sub, he built a box. There is a big difference. If anyone is interested in a custom made sub, do a web search, Richard Clark built a sub with a diameter of over 50 inches.
There isn't anything special on making a woofer by yourself, first i thought that the dude made the element by himself but naawh... You really don't need much skill to make a subwoofer, just some maths and a little skills to make the casing. If you have proper tools it shouldn't even take long for an experienced woofer builder. With experienced i mean knowing the little tips & tricks to avoid hazzle and problems. tho, that woofer probably sounds nice but there isn't anything special... i wonder where ./ is going with news like this, do they wanna do a news report when i assemble my next woofer? lol
Or perhaps some of my other projects like liquid cooling to make cpu run at -15 to -10 celsius degrees, or perhaps mobo box sized server...
NOTE TO MODDERS: I didn't want to troll but there simply isn't any idea to report stuff like this, there isn't anything special on making a subwoofer by yourself.
Pulsed Media Seedboxes
When i first read the title to this story, I said to myself, "Wow, some guy actually hacked together some magnets and other supplies and built his own subwoofer!" But it's just an enclosure!
/.
:P
Wow, so what he built his own enclosure. This is common practice in both home and car audio and hardly worth the post on
I build an enclosure for 2 subwoofers for my car when I was 16 years old. It's not hard, and there are many MANY pages just like this one out on the web.
Another in a long line of "You can, but should you?" projects.
Well if you can handle power tools, and a couple of simple caculations to get the right enclosure and port size for your subwoofer, then HELL YES! I still have mine in my car that are custom fit, and sounds better than the cheap enclosure i had before. I even used pvc pipe as the ports
Imagine a beowulf cluster of these!! hooo-yeah baby!! uh uh uh love that pussy!!
mje0w!!!1!
Just take a gander at the king of all subwoofers they made out of an old hard drive motor at MIT!
Software piracy is victimless theft.
... where are the Lego guys?
I own the 4th and 5th editions of this book, and it has everything you would ever want on enclosure design. You can pick it up from Crutchfield, or I'm sure Amazon, Barnes and Noble, etc. should carry it.
Overrated / Underrated : Moderation
Now that is building a subwoofer!!
might as well get 15' of 10" PVC put a 10" woof appr.2/3 the way down(go get specs yourself) and get bass to stir your guts.
*Repent!Quit Your Job!Slack Off!The World Ends Tomorrow and You May Die!
They have no enclosure!
Regardless, why is this a big deal? I used to build boxes back in high school. They usually sounded awful but not always. Just had to get them sealed up and calculate the dimensions properly.
I had two JL 10W1's that sounded pretty good for a relatively cheap speaker.
The man who trades freedom for security does not deserve nor will he ever receive either. - Benjamin Franklin
One 26 inch home-brew subwoofer, coming right up!. They built it with the driver from an ancient hard drive. For those not up on Norse mythology, moljnir (several spellings seen) was the unstoppable hammer of the gods, carried by Thor himself. I'd say a building-shaking sub comes pretty close to that description. ;-)
News for Geeks in Austin, TX
This is an article on how to build a sub box, not the speaker itself. Many people build their own sub boxes, this is a pretty nice one from what I can see, but its not much different then whats in the trunks of many people across the world today..
you can, but why fucking bother?
sigh.
sometimes DIY is not better. if your time is worth $50 an hour, spend it better buying one if it takes more than an hour to make one. don't be a jerkoff.
There are many fine sites out there with information on building subwoofer enclosures. While the construction of this one was fairly robust and adequate, the design will likely have a very poor response. There are too many no-no's here to cover for a SlashDot comment. Y'all should try some real sites for a start:
CD Racks - Methods and practices of mounting on walls.
This is *BOOOOOMMMMM*cool cool, I think *BOOOOOMMMMM* i'm gonna try it *BOOOOOMMMMM* for my home *BOOOOOMMMMM* theatre!! The low end *BOOOOOMMMMM* would add a *BOOOOOMMMMM* lot to the experience *BOOOOOMMMMM* .
J *BOOOOOMMMMM*
*BOOOOOMMMMM*
Beer, now there's a temporary solution -- Homer Jay S.
I'm no acoustic engineer, but it seems you'd have to do some calculations to make sure the resonant cavity matches up to the speaker. I don't see any evidence that he's done any calculations whatsoever. How would you go about determining the optimal size and shape of the cabinet? Or does it not matter on such low freqs?
This has to be the worst Slashdot how-to ever. There is absolutely nothing geeky about doing it blind like this, especially considering how much information is available about doing it the right way. So kids, don't do this at home; do better!
What? Do you think this is for listening to MUSIC or something?
This poor chap must have thought "I don't need no stinking math, for a living I'll build custom subwoofer enclosures and sell them!" Now you're telling him he needs math for that too.
With the knowledge that I'm being redundant, this is perhaps one of the most irrelevant things I have ever seen on Slashdot. I would rather see nothing at all than a link on how to build a speaker cabinet. Nerds and powertools do not mix.
Sure, I could just stop viewing Slashdot, but I would miss the thousands of asinine comments that make me feel like a normal person. Instead, I have chosen to join the ranks of people who actually believe that anyone else on the Internet gives a damn what they think.
Ladies and Gentlemen, Slashdot has reached a new low (and not just because I've finally posted a comment).
Why is it that almost every article I read has 70-bazillion (rough estimate) comments complaining that the article isn't news? What's the point of that? You're obviously not accomplishing anything by posting, because you'll inevitably come back the next day and find 10 more articles that you don't consider news.
Ooooh, for a moment when they said "Build your own subwoofer," I thought they meant out of spare parts at home.
Actually, he meant, out of parts taken from another subwoofer...
See what happens when you have old episodes of MacGyver on tape?
MacGyver could break out of a turkish prison with a straw and a toothpick...
I think I'll keep my JBL SB-5. I can deliver all those sounds that you can't hear but feel. :) A cool device with 4 speakers inside where they are facing eachother 2 by 2 in 3 chambers. PDF tech doc.
I have built subs for my car, but the only problems is that even when you get the sizes calculations right, it just doesn't always sound right. So this time I have settled with a pre-built one, the advantage here was the I tried a few in my car to find the one that sounded right in my car.
my sig
about 300 people out of my 1400 member highschool could have gotten alot out of this article..or rather the comments. they all seem to be of the mind that you can throw a pair of 15" subs in a plywood box and throw it in the back of your car, and then they wonder why it sounds like an amplified fart when the bass hits.
If you can't see the value in jet powered ants you should turn in your nerd card. - Dunbal (464142)
In the 20 or so years that i've been listening to them, subs which use relatively small, high-excursion drivers in a sealed enclosure have been the best, especially for percussion. They need more power, but it's worth it.
Ported subs just don't seem to have the *punch*, and it's tiring to listen to music which has a lot of info near the resonant freq of the port.
What was it the last line on their website said?
Something about it controlling his pacemaker and a a heavy load on the machine could be fatal to the webmaster?.
I thought so too.. I was expecting a homebrew subwoofer. Like building the subwoofer, not an enclosure. What a rip.
This article should just be deleted now. There's like 10,000 articles all over the place on how to build enclosures. dammit.
"Morons, your train is leaving"
my subs are in the back of my jeep...took the seat out and put in 2 x soundstream spl160 subwoofers running off 2 phoenix gold amps
We played dungeons and dragons for 3 hours.....then i was slain by an elf
I read at +3, so I might not have seen a link to this project. Have no idea if it is any good, but it's certainly cheaper than many other options.
(For those not wishing to slashdot OSDN, it's for gspeaker, a gpl software for determining speaker enclosure sizes)
Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
The whole project is pointless without knowing what kind of frequency response this enclosure will supply. It will most likely be very loose bass looking at the basic setup (Not good for sound quality and not good for accuratly reproducing the sounds created by musical instruments). I would be supprised if the whole thing is really cost effective once you add up the price of the parts+time+block amp. Audio equipment is heavily marked up (Around 250%) But this is probably a hard area to beat the price/performance available in the store.
nice looking enclosure. too bad that article has nothing to do with 'building a subwoofer'.
Blue LEDs! Add some of those and you have a geek worthy article.
You're much better off scrapping the whole cone idea and go for a vane/cylinder design. They're much easier to build and often give much better results in a homebrew situation. Try here for some explaination: http://www.mindspring.com/~sdinc/pages/td_new_fam. html
matguy(.com)
I may be opening a social club in the not-so-near future. Among the various plans in getting the place up and running, one of the things I'm concerned about is the audio.
I could go the conventional route and just hang a bunch of Peaveys around the place, but I'm also considering using a big subwoofer under the stage and mid/high speakers on the walls and hung from the ceiling instead. I think this might give better audio quality as well as being easier to do -- not to mention safer, wouldn't want those big speakers falling down.
Does anyone have recommendations on such a setup? Are there any subwoofer speakers available that can handle a large space?
If this is another in a line of "You can, but you should you?" projects, can we get a topic for all of these to go under so I can filter them off the homepage? I'm getting tired of seeing crap like this subwoofer thing, and others like "Here's how I made my kid's jungle gym into a water cooling setup for my Athlon".
"I'm a leaf on the wind. Watch how I soar."
-Hoban Washburn
DEFAULT CATCH
Mod this up. Mod it up to 5. Mod it up to 12. Force everyone on the planet to read it. Ain't it cool!
I hate to poo poo someone, but you poo poo'ed the guy's web site. If you use the Shiva driver he did, and build it like he did, YOU DON'T NEED NO STINKING VARIABLES OR CALCULATIONS!
;-(
Personally, I preferred the NHT, but "whatever floats yer boat", or, in my case, "whatever shakes yer gutters off the house". And yes, it really did.
I agree that this is hardly news, but it's not a bad little diy thing, either.
Mark
Note: I have no affiliation with Acoustic Visions other than a very satisfied customer.
BTW, I am now a nerd for hire. See here if you're looking -- would accept H1B transfer or TN1, preferably in the Dallas area or relo back to Canada.
You could've hired me.
that you're telling me scratching your bum and picking your ear is worth $50 an hour? get real... most of the time you spend not doing anything can be put into something more productive.
Not only this is this article devoid of any useful information for creating an enclosure, but the end product being promoted is probably worth less than the materials used for construction.
Now, if you want to post a link about how to build a ported, tuned, quad-driver system with 4 15" Earthquake Magmas running 4000 watts RMS, THAT'S something I'll read about. Otherwise, wait for some real news before posting.
Yes, and a lot (notice how it is two words) of people (including yourself) at your highschool appear to not know correct English.
If you are going to criticize written English, you better be a whole lot more careful. I took the liberty of using boldface to highlight your errors. "It" refers to a single thing and, thus, cannot be "two words." You should have said "notice how 'a lot' is two words". Note that the word "yourself" is boldfaced. The proper word to use there is "you." Would you say "yourself appear to not know correct English"?
While perhaps syntactically correct, "to not know correct English" is clumsy -- to say the least. You should have ended the sentence with something like "to be incapable of writing English correctly."
Ignoring your poor sentence construction and grammatical mistakes, you reasoning is flawed. You claim that "a lot" of people from his high school write poorly, yet you have only read his writing. You have no way to know how the other students write.
Still feeling cocky?
Your post has to be the worst Slashdot troll ever. Wait, I just did the same thing to you! The difference between you and me and the author of the article and slashdot is that the author and Slashdot have put up.
Me, one day I'll spend $60 for a cheap boomer that comes with it's own amp. I applaud the author for doing better.
DMCA, Hollings, Palladium. What might have sounded like paranoia is now common sense.
Interesting -1 Informative -1 Insightful-1 Troll -1 Flamebait -1 Funny +1 ---- Still totals: -4 eek Slashdot is becoming the equiv of a dumbed down sesame st or what? I built a hack job box like that when i was in H.S. There are thousands of people designing better amatuer boxes. There are tons of info on the net about acoustics,design theory etc. This article is like what you see in fron of AMPM every graveyard. this article.
A Good Troll is better than a Bad Human.
Typical slashdotter: This sucks, the guy should be shot, I'm better than you and everyone else, blah blah blah.
Whatever happened to insiteful comments, gues they take TIME and THOUGHT.
build your own woofer, then put it in your Thunder Table
Your hair look like poop, Bob! - Wanker.
should of read the story first.
Your hair look like poop, Bob! - Wanker.
Gods, I'll bet those side walls flex something awful under full power.
Great, just what the world needs, another annoying contraption to piss off the neighbors. Here's an idea, get these new subwoofer earbuds that I've invented and go blow out your own eardrums.
I don't consider pointing such things out as "poo-pooing" his site. And you can't even "build the unit like he did" (your words) using the information on his page because he didn't even say *anything* about the *tube* he used to create his unit--the single largest component. Nothing about the diameter, thickness, density, length, or even who makes it. This is rather odd given that he went into PLENTY of detail about certain construction details.
Again, the page didn't provide adequate information to build it the unit, much less determine if it was properly designed.
My first speaker was a smack horn. The effiency of a horn is much higher than a closed or ported speaker. I got 104 Db at 1 Watt at 1 meter when a normal speaker only makes about 90 Db. Since Decibel is not linear thats a very big difference. Need i to say that it was well worth the hassle? My old Marantz tuner could play the pants of off any mates systems even if it only had 100 Watt output because of the high efficiency of the speakers.
To build a complicated case is more expensive for a speaker manufacturer than to put in a speaker element that handles higher power. For your amplifier its better to have a nicer load.
HTTP/1.1 400
Now that you've built your own subwoofer, you can cover the higher audio range with a custom made plasma speaker!
"Leave the strategizing to those of us with planet-sized brains." -Tycho
This sub will kick the crap out of any commercial subwoofer less than $1000 (exceptions would be SVS and Hsu Research, but it would still be half the price of the subs from these manufactures that would compete with it). This isn't the car audio crowd who love to pay way too much for crap drivers with pretty logos. This is a Home Theater enthusiast who took the time to do the research and consult those who knew what they were doing.
This guy didn't care to know the theory behind the design, he wanted a good sub on the cheap. The "Patman" referred to is a moderator on Home Theater Forum who really knows his stuff. Patman would have modelled an excellent enclosure design for James and he simply built it. I'm sure Patman could provide me the specifics if I asked, but from looking at the pages I can tell you it will be an EBS allignment tuned to 20hz or lower. Powered with anything over 200W it will be very impressive. Being an EBS allignment using an Adire Shiva driver with ample porting it will also qualify as an audiophile quality sub. Boom box this is not. This is tight accurate bass way above the vast majority of commercial subs.
The fact is most commercial subs have serious design flaws. Their enclosures are too small, they are underported (don't have enough Vp with a passive radiator design) and are tuned too high or have a sealed Q that is too high. You'd also be surprised if you saw the actual quality of most commercial sub drivers. Most of this is a result of size and cost constraints placed on the designers. Keep in mind that a sub that sells at a retailer for $1000 likely cost the manufacture less than $200 to make (add $300 for shipping, infrastructure costs, then double it again for dealer mark up for their infrastructure costs).
$300 spent on a DIY sub will compete with commercial subs at the $1000 or more price point. Spend $700 on a dual Adire Tempest sonosub and 250W per channel pro amp and pretty much nothing commercial under $5000 will be able to compete (output wise, sound quality will depend on what allignment you choose). Get up in the $2000 range and nothing commercial will compete, period. Build a multiple driver (4-12) infinite baffel or dipole sub and you will be in a league of bass never dreamed of from commercial manufactures. In the next 6 months Adire and Stryke will also be releasing some new drivers that will allow DIY subs to widen the price/performance gap with commercial subs even further.
Those saying you can take drivers purchased at Radio Shack or your typical car audio sub are kidding themselves. You'll get a sub that can compete with the cheap commercial stuff, but nothing remotely close to what James has built.
Those suggesting building your own driver are also kidding themselves. The materials needed to make a good quality driver are not something you can just slap together in your garage. If you just wanna have some fun a learn something go for it. If you want to produce a sub you'll actually want to use, get a proven driver (Adire, Stryke, Blueprint, Lambda, Dayton DVC or Titanic, etc). However if you want to get into the design of drivers there are a few driver manufacturing houses that will do a production run on a design with as few as 25 units.
If you want a sub without the compromises made in almost all commercial sub designs take a look at the post that gives links to AVS and Home Theater Forum. Those links will lead you to everything you need to know to build an incredible sub (design software, theory, good drivers and amps, enclosure construction technics, etc).
If you don't have the ability to build your own, SVS or Hsu Research are IMHO the best values out there in commercial subs with the fewest compromises (unless you can afford to start spending well in excess of $2000 without batting an eye).
It's not syntactically correct. "To not know" is a split infinitive. (Remember those?)
Actually, it is correct. In 1998, the influential New Oxford Dictionary of English admitted that "in standard English the principle of allowing split infinitives is broadly accepted as both normal and useful."
Anyone else get a mental picture of Michael J Fox turning up knob after knob, and standing in front of a giant speaker?
:)
*sigh* Maybe some DIY stuff should be left alone
He didn't build the speaker, he built the enclosure for it.
In any case, he used the Shiva II woofer, which I believe is only available without an enclosure, although there are some places making enclosures and selling them with Shiva's already in them. This woofer is around $100 if I remember right, and outperforms many premade commercial products by a longshot. If you know how to use a saw and some basic tools, this woofer is definitely the way to go. I think audioreview.com has some user comments on it, almost all of them positive.
Need Free Juniper/NetScreen Support? JuniperForum
I can't find it anymore, but there was info around on building your own subwoofer from rotary actuator motors, similar to the Mjolnir. Here's a link: http://www.mindspring.com/~sdinc/pages/contra_pu.h tml
They used to have diagrams for which parts you needed, etc. The rub was that a single ~2 cubic foot box with 2 x 12" pistons would equal something like 8 15" standard woofers.
If you want to know all the theory behind a subwoofer (and other enclosures too) you can go at this site. It explains everything (but in french). May be you can try the fish on it it should be ok. Btw if someone wants to translate it in english i'm sure the author will be ok. The author distributes this book freely.
Feh.
An interesting a do-it-yourself project, but can you talk with elephants using it, let alone load it into an Isuzu Trooper?
That seems to have been the going standard for servo-driven loudspeakers for a decade or two.
I had the unique experience of sitting rather directly beside a (somewhat lesser, but similar) dual-cone 15" unit for an evening as I played DJ. I'll spare the details, but do allow me to say that visiting The Throne after returning home that night after having everything homogenized (shaken, not stirred) by the subwoofers was uniquely euphoric experience.
[I'd include more prominent links to Intersonics/Servo-Drive, who still sells these monsters. But their web page is "currently down for reconstruction." Dumb shits. Their old page was at least informative, not to mention existant. groups.google.com for more information, I guess...]
Kid-proof tablet..
next week's article on slow news day
For theirs is the kingdom of Sitonyourasses, and they live only at second hand; so then, should it not bedazzle them when one not so different than they - for, sooth, did he not make a web page of his Big Adventure, to share it with those who but sit and stroketh the keys? - getteth up off of his ass and actually maketh something besides loud whining and stenchful air? To them, he is a wonder and a marvel, a prodigy of individual empowerment, one who has freed himself from the bondage of the Stereo Store, at least in this one small way.
Remember thou who hast a life: to the Slashdottie all is vicarious entertainment. How then should they find it within themselves to resist the lure of a web page, which they can view without discommoding themselves even a jot, about a component to help them feel the diverting special effects in the next Hollywood Smash Hit For The Stupid And Incurably Lifeless? It is almost as good as yet another piece of Star Wars advertisement - your pardon, I meant to say news, of course - the likes of which they cannot stand to pass a day without.
Looketh thou into my mirror; what doth thou see?
You can go to any neighborhood radio shack and get a book on doing all of your stereo building. A quick search through online book catalogues will reveal many books on the subject.
I was always taught that highschool is actually two words, high and school.
He built the speaker enclosure, big deal. And it's not even finished. Any idiot can build a speaker box, but he didn't even build it a specification for appropriate bass tuning. I thought he was building the driver - much more interesting ;-)
Actually, he meant, out of parts taken from another subwoofer...
I see the point. But somehow I get the feeling that if you want a subwoofer, there has to be an easier way....
Do you care about the security of your wireless mouse?
What the fuck's a router in mundane-speak?;)
Is this a sigs-optional kind of place? 'Cause I am totally down with that if you know what I mean.
The guy didn't even put spikes on for feet. I would love to see this perform on a wood floor. It would be all over the place w/ that flat board as the bass.
Surely not slashdot material!!!
next...
Sure, building your own subwoofer might not be news, and it might not be a new idea, but until Slashdot gets a "really cool stuff that doesn't quite qualify as news but it's still for nerds" section, the front page will have to do.
No, this guy's speakers aren't that great.
There are some good points, however. He's doing nothing of note constructionwise, but the larger choice of the sonotube has significant advantages and disadvantages. Big plus: tube shape means walls CANNOT flex from pressure. That allows for potentially thunderous reproduction of the sound coming out, without overhang or weakening of the fundamental. Big minus: the sound coming out is strongly colored by the inside of the enclosure being the second worst possible shape in the universe- worst is a sphere. Testing has shown that these shapes are the best possible for the outside of an enclosure, but the worst for the inside.
What I've found works best for really serious bass is multiple drivers of gradiated sizes. My mains are running 6.5/8/10/12 drivers series-parallel like a Marshall cab- wattage is comparable to four of the weakest speaker (6.5) series-parallel, because that's the one that'd blow first. I have a narrow but absurdly deep cabinet, internal walls, bottom two sections ported and the top two open-backed. I had acoustic foam in there but found that it sounded better in the mids to leave it totally open, since all the resonance and reverberation goes straight out the back. The bottom, with the 10 and 12, has two good-sized ports, but since the box is so big (and it's running acoustic suspension drivers, too) the port only extends the lows further- it is not tuned high enough to make 'one note bass', it's reinforcing the really extreme lows.
If you want a REAL geek audio project, make some supertweeters like I did. Small piezo drivers (I'm using some fairly rigid and tough-to-solder-to ones I got in bulk), mount them on something solid while leaving the middle free to flex (rigid mounting like superglue, not a soft gasket), and then take some envelopes with that clear cellophane stuff that crackles easily if you rumple it. Cut out rectangular pieces big enough that you can make an 'M'- you're going to be making a degradation of the Lineaum cylindrical driver. That requires a piece to translate piezo flex into true linear motion- as shown in the *spit* patent- this skips the bridge piece and applies flexing-disc vibration directly to the leaves of the driver. In doing so it fails to be a proper line source- but the weight of the moving mass is that much less!
Take two 'leaves' and superglue them together at the base. You can trim them a bit so there's a slight ) shape to the part that'll be glued to the piezo. Take a bit of acoustic foam, superglue the outside of the sandwich of cellophane on one side to it, attach it to the speaker to the side of the piezo (which you should have wired up already). Then do the same to the other side- you want a 'm', seen from the top, with the middle bit resting directly on the piezo. The 'm' shouldn't be too tall, but it does have to form full half-cylinders- it shouldn't be flat. Finally, if it's all good, put a dot of superglue on the middle of the piezo, and allow the center of the 'm' to be attached permanently.
How it works: pressure from the piezo displaces the cellophane. Since it's two loose semicylinders, it flexes, choosing to compress together at first rather than shift the whole structure outwards. Surprise! The semicylinders form an exponential horn- and you've just compressed the throat, forcing air out! In addition, the wave will travel outward from the center, until it dissipates by air resistance and eventually the acoustic foam mounting at the far end. This tweeter goes up forever, way beyond CD capabilities, very cleanly, and it also has phenomenal dispersion characteristics- very wide soundfield, virtually no beaming. The difference is not subtle.
In a perfect world, lots of people could work with this technique and develop it as free software is developed. I've seen the patents on the _refined_ version of this- involving a bridge piece between the (not truly linear) driver and the base of the cylinders- and until the patents expire, this is officially proprietary.
I am sure that will dissuade MANY slashdotters from getting cellophane, piezos and superglue, and building their own supertweeters. Don't you people know developing on ideas someone else had is wrong? Remember, whoever-it-was who said, "If I have failed to see farther, it is because I wasn't allowed to stand on anybody's shoulders, so there" ;)
Why have I taken so much effort to communicate this technique? Because I'm a speaker designer myself. I have numerous ideas that are in fact mine, and hybrids of those with things like the Linaeum cylindrical driver, some of which are just terrific. And I'm very annoyed by a reality in which I cannot function as a simple artisan and idea-haver, without patent-wrestling with corporations- and in which I can't even go ahead with my own stuff, as corporations will take anything that's really good, and patent it since I won't, possibly even stopping me from using something I've invented. It makes you want to hide and never build anything.
There's nothing to do but go ahead anyway, but understand that my 'outing' of a homebrew way to do a degraded form of the Lineaum piezo driver patent is a combination of 'power to the people' and simple bitterness. What would have happened if the person to make the first cone driver had locked it up with patents, filed extensions, retained control of it to the present day? There'd be virtually no speakers, is what.
I feel the ideas that MOST deserve patent protection are the ones that most harm the scientific environment through their being guarded by lawyers. 'swinging sideways on a swing' patents are harmless. The ones that are REALLY GOOD are the ones that NEED to disseminate out into society.
sonosubs are very popular in DIY home-theater circles. I built one myself and it's not that difficult at all. Sounds awesome and easily rivals subs that are over $2k +
But it's not even a particularly new/clever/well presented/information rich example of a sub woofer either... the same type of sub design has been shown many, many times before... so why was this one posted on Slashdot?
I spent WAY to many hours reading up on homemade subwoofer construction for my home A/V system, and settled on one somewhat like the one in the article. It took me and my Dad about 8-10 hours to build and cost around $250 US. With a cheap 150 watt Parasound it blows the doors off the house when cranked up (which I don't do often since I already have tinitus from my punk-rawk days) but can blend nicely for really smooth bass when listening to music.
See it here:
http://wisdomtools.com/~brbothwe/shivasub/
If you have the excellent BassBox Pro 6, here is the BB6 data file:
shivasub.bb6
This design (like most sonotube subs) is ported. Even smoother subs (for high-end audio) can be made sealed.
The following site has probably already been posted, but if not check it out:
http://www.diysubwoofers.org
yeah the woodwright shop is a much better and more interesting show because he likes to talk about how the various tools were invented, their history and all. besides, you can't say that a guy who makes his own tools isn't cool.
Large print giveth, and the small print taketh away
http://www.txraves.org/~magnetik/diy/Page.html you can see how you cut holes with the router with a jig in one of the shots... Julian Brock
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