Ask Slashdot: A Cheap, DIY Home Security and Surveillance System?
scubamage writes "Six weeks ago, my home was broken into while my fiance and I were at work. Two laptops were stolen, an iPad, a power brick, a safe (complete with several years worth of taxes, my birth certificate, and old copies of my driver's license), a digital SLR, and several other costly items. We are now dealing with an attorney because the homeowner's insurance is fighting us on a number of items and we're not backing down. It has been a nightmare. However, we've now noticed that someone has been visiting our house during the day. There has been garbage left sitting on our back porch table, so its unlikely to have blown there. We've also seen footprints in our garden that are not there in the morning. Our neighborhood is essentially empty during the day, and we want to know who is on our property while we're not. If we're really lucky, reporting it to the police could recover some of our property. My fiance has asked me to assemble a home security system that is motion activated, and both notifies us of an entry, as well as records video or rapid HD stillframes when sensing motion. The goal is to do this cheaply and more effectively than going with a private security company like ADT (who, consequently, our police department told us to ignore due to the incredibly high rate of false alarms). We've already gotten the dog and the gun, so we have those bases covered. What suggestions do you have on setting up home security systems, and what have you done to build one in the past?"
You have the gun, and you have the dog. All you really need now is a reputation.
Hoist Number One and Number Six.
Get a dog. Nothing deters burglars more than something that will attack them. No amount of electronic surveillance will deter someone who will be in and out in less than five minutes with all your electronics.
We had our cars getting broken into and did basically the same thing (minus gun).
We have a linux file server at home, so what I ended up doing was getting a V4L
compatible video capture card off ebay (I got a 16 input card for $80). 4 port
capture cards are common and cheap. Just make sure it's compatible with linux.
Then go to dealextreme.com, or I think they're also at dx.com now. There you can
get cameras, and the video balun's to make it simple to use cat 5 to run your
cameras. A camera is about $20 for a decent night vision one, and the balun set
(8 baluns to run 4 cameras) were about $25.
Once you've got your hardware all set up, you can use either "motion" or "zoneminder"
for the actual surveilence. Both will do what you want. I use motion, but
zoneminder is a little more polished in the UI department.
Finally, set up an rsync script or other mirror software to get those files off site
in case they actually try to steal your server.
Steal someones 'secured by' signs from their front yard and put it in your yard. Seriously if someone is going to break into your house they are going to do it security system or not.
If you're only goal is deterring any thefts that is about the best thing you can do really. Now if you want to have evidence to hand over to the police then that is another story all together.
http://www.zoneminder.com/
It integrates well with MythTV, too.
"To those who are overly cautious, everything is impossible. "
Why you ask? They are useful and fun.
Guns aren't any use if they're a) not handy, and b) not understood. Could also backfire if the bad guy takes it away from you. Or steals it from you while you're gone during the day.
Don't get me wrong: I have a number of guns in my house. But that alone doesn't make me feel safe in the event of a break-in. I hope you catch the cock-sucker, but be careful that you don't become another "statistic" in the process.
How does your home get broken into?
Too many windows. Windows are a vulnerability. Have them all filled in. Second of all, get solid steel doors with plenty of locks. There, done.
Now use Gamemaker.
Should catch geeks better than unobtainium!
We were broken into about 5 weeks ago. I originally considered Frontpoint about 5 months ago, but we kept putting it off. It's the only security company that had mediocre to good reviews consistently.
They have a few options - what you're looking for is their "ultimate" version, which includes cameras. It streams online I believe, and you can turn on/off the security system from your phone or their web page.
They do not send out a rep to do installation, instead they ship the system to you (they'll probably upgrade you to next day shipping for free if you mention you just had a burglary) and you set it up yourself. It took me about 15 minutes to set up, although I had to re-glue some of the door sensors.
When you call, or email, their sales agents don't try to upsel you. They work with what you want, and try to assess your needs based on how you describe your house. If you want an extra sensor for something, they are happy to give it to you - but they will want to know why, and if they don't think it's needed, they'll try to talk you out of it. I had the feeling they actually cared about my interests, and not selling me more equipment.
They also follow up on any feedback you provide, and actively try to resolve issues. I'm really happy with them. They use alarm.com for monitoring.They also have additional styles of sensors that the average joe doesn't care about (ones that you install in the door, rather than putting on the outside of the door - i.e. invisible), but you need to ask. They try to keep it simple.
Baver
This is a thief. The last thing he wants to do is encounter you when you are home.
All that gun will do is get stolen. And then when it's used in commission of a crime, you'll be the one hauled in for questioning.
Better plan: Place a honeypot "screamer" device that sends its GPS location every 30 seconds to a server that you control. Let the thief lead you to *his* lair.
You can get a cheap surveillance system with 4 or 8 cameras and a DVR from somebody that sells the Zmodo brand. They aren't the highest quality, but will certainly show you what you're looking for. I have personal experience with the systems and they seem to work well. They usually have motion activated recording, infared for night, and a built in web server so you can pull up the feed from away from the house. If you do a search for packages, you can find stuff from like 250$-600$ and it's relatively easy to install if you can run wires and handle a drill.
http://www.costco.com/Common/Category.aspx?cat=4802&eCat=BC|90607|4802&lang=en-US&whse=BC&topnav=
4 IR cams expandable to 8 with a 500 Gb DVR for $280. Not a bad deal short of putting your camcorder on a tripod and pointing it out the back door.
Since you have the gun already, landmines for the garden are the obvious next step
You could also leave a few scraps of yellow crime scene tape and a chalk outline of a body in front of your house. Give them something to think about.
Have gnu, will travel.
Right, because some in-and-out trained chimps are who you should trust with your home security.
Get something like a Honeywell Lynx Plus. It's wireless, easy to install, and easy to set up. You don't even need it monitored--the sound of the panel blaring would send any burglar packing. As for CCTV, you can get some dead cheap camera/DVR deals on Newegg, but don't expect awesome quality or lifespan.
Get a hunting trail camera. Takes pics on an SD card. Not networked, but is designed to be outside and it should get you the information you seek relatively cheaply.
We don't need no Net Explorer We don't need no Thought control
I use a combination of Yawcam and Vitamin D. Neither are particularly great, but they serve my needs. And they're (mostly) free. I get images emailed to me when it detects motion in my apt and I can view live video remotely from my phone or a browser (via ssh or vpn). I use the Star Trek Enterprise (NCC-1701) webcam that I got from thinkgeek.
I've been thinking about adding something to monitor and record audio too. Also, been thinking about switching to use a kinect as the camera.
I'm glad this story was posted because sometimes I think I'm too paranoid for doing all of this. This is somewhat re-assuring.
just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand!
One idea is to run a usb-extension cord (6-10 foot) from your desk/lapt-top and connect a reasonably good webcam to it. Then run YawCam (free) software with motion detection.
...make sure the recorder/storage cannot be stolen too. You mentioned having a safe stolen...was it secured to a shelf or floor? I have to assume it wasn't or if it was, not securely. A security system that can be stolen is worthless.
Grizzly bear mother and cubs in the back.
Cobras in the house.
That will fix the prowler right up.
John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
All the surveillance you can take.... Oh wait, you said "cheap".... never mind...
Not true. Plenty of options for self-monitored systems. If you want a hard-wired system and have a land-line, you can get setup for about $400. Video would of course cost more, but I've seen systems through costco than can be setup for a few hundred. For under a grand you could be setup.
I have a foscam wireless camera that will upload to an ftp server of your choice. It was inexpensive (~$60 on amazon). Can be set to take an image on some time interval. You can then collect the images into a movie for that day ( use 'convert' from Imagemagick).
Logitech delivevers a surprisingly good turnkey solution! I use it in my company, we have 20 stores and lately there has been a surge in robberies of our stores. After we got these cameras set up, with no extra hacking, it delivers perfect video with sound and can of course be motion activated. We have sendt the video captures to the national TV station (Norwegian TV2) and it got aired nationwide. The quality was that good that they chose to use our videos. I would not bother create a hacked-together just because these things Just Work. Normally I wouldn't trust a Logitech product to do something this important, but they are very good and reliable. No problems, we've use them daily at 20 locations with no problems and no hazzles. I am not affiliated with Logitech, I just really like a solution that works perfectly and want to share it with others.
If they're looking to catch the daytime lurker (and likely robber), I'd imagine you'd want it to be silent. At least for this job. A real alarm can come later if necessary.
So, for this, maybe a trailcam would do the job on the cheap. Otherwise I'm sure there are webcams that do it.
skylink sc-1000
I only have the Googling experience so far, though I once designed and installed security systems for businesses. For my business I use ADT, but for home, I really don't like adding another monthly service bill in addition to phone, cable, internet... so yes I'm a tight wad.
BTW. Video record the burglars if you want and maybe with lots of work you might cause them a little grief. But a really loud alarm, and maybe some strobe lights might actually make them stop and move on to a less noisy place.
I'm told the number one thing you can do to deter break-ins (this according to an ADT guy) is to add more outside lighting. Don't see how that would help in the day time though. Maybe very obvious, large real or fake outdoor cameras would be equivalent?
goto ebay, type zmodo in the search box, choose between 4 cameras w/o (sata) hard disk for $160 (4 cameras, recorder, wires, power supply) to around $300 for 8 cameras, recorder with hard disk, wire and power supply
My server is a very nice case mod with transparent panels and blue glowing lights that sits on a shelf next to my flat screen TV. It's so cool. It screams steal me! On top of it I leave several DVDs of porn each in their own DVD jewel box wrapper with all the porn photos on them.
Of course, there are three other IP cameras pointed at this wonderfully blue glowing empty box too, each camera with motion detection and set to email pictures to my gmail account and ftp video to an external host.
IP cameras have become quite cheap, depending on your needs. If you get PoE models they are also far easier to run than traditional cameras, as a single CatE cable can get the job done. I've set up small systems a number of places including my house, and it all works quite well and easily. While you can go the open source route, I found the easiest way is with some Mac software. You can even do it without network DVR software and use cameras that capture to onboard SD cards. I find that inconvenient, but it can be a good backup if your cameras are mounted out of reach but your server isn't.
Checkout, in no particular order:
There's a product for every need. Cheap, $50 indoor lit-room only solutions to $2000 pan/tilt/zoom IR illuminated outdoor vandal proof units.
TrendNet makes affordable PoE switches. 10/100 is fine, an individual camera stream is maybe 2Mbps for a high res stream.
I use SecuritySpy on a Mac. Even watching 8 cameras it uses
Place cameras where you can get good shots of faces as they come through doors. Maybe one of your driveway or street in front to get a car. They won't stop the break in, although visible cameras outside may be a deterrent, but they will give you a fighting chance of catching the person who did it.
Oh, and get a dog with a loud bark. Most robbers don't want to find out if it is a small dog or big dog!
That is pretty normal for burglers to come back. They like backdoors as well. If you do not want a commercial system, pick up some IP cams and add zoneminder. We use the LTS infrared camera. We got it from Newegg for about 100. You can pick up the y-cam, but it is the SAME PHYSICAL CAMERA for 200 (and nothing extra; just a private label). We use one of ours for watching the front yard and another in the baby room. It is awesome in the dark.
I prefer the "u" in honour as it seems to be missing these days.
Take a personal day from work, take your gun and hide in the bushes. I would recommend bringing some trail mix, grenola bars and wire ties. Capture your intruder and hog tie them with 4 standard wire ties (2 feet, 1 hands, 1 tie together). I'm not sure of if you have to call the police immediately and if you don't, don't. Spraying your intruder with a hose could be fun??
If you can find a generic Canon camera, any basic point and shoot should work there is a quick way to make it sense motion. Download the CHDK open source firmware. This has a few different motion sensing modes that do work decently well if you set them up right. Then you just need to mount the camera is a good location and get it an AC power adapter and you will be good to go. It won't be great, and you will end up sorting through a pile of false positives, but if cheap and fast are priorities, and good can wait this is how I would do it.
You can buy an Android phone for a prepaid cell account for under $100. (used phones are doable too ) Various camera apps will do scene detection and emailing of stills or video or can do periodic image capture. Powered by a microUSB is easy enough, with it's internal battery as a backup for short power outages.
WiFi works fine, and with a home UPS will be up and running for most local power outages. Having a $X a day plan from the carrier will allow the mobile network to be used as a backup to the the WiFi without providing a continuous additional monthly bill.
Images / Video can be sent to an online email account, so while immediate notification can be on your own mobile, there's a ready built server for storing the images.
Arduino or similar hardware could be used as additional sensor inputs,or possibly an alarm output, but using built in cameras alone gives you a useful device out of the box.
the safe, that is. Those things are getting stolen all the time.
My home security consists of:
2 of these
http://www.offroaders.com/directory/animals/images/Labrador_Retriever_chocolate_named_Hershey-s.jpg
+
1 of these
http://www.leadslingerarmory.com/assets/images/Springfield/xd-tactical-bitone.jpg
---
Sending sound information to your phone would be a lot less bandwidth than video. It would be easier for you to respond in real time. That is, system detects a [possible] breakin sound signature, sends a text alert to your phone. You then connect to real time monitoring of the microphones. You would be able to confirm what is happening. Then, you can call police and say that a human has verified the breakin. They would be more likely to respond (vs. false alarm)
Like a good neighbor, fsck is there
I purchased and set up my own from Swann. Two cameras to a DVR with support for two more. The best part about it is smartphone and tablet support. I can monitor the feeds anywhere as long as I have an Internet connection. It's great and was only a few hundred dollars at Radio Shack.
Haven't read through all the comments yet, but make sure your system stays powered. If you're using wireless IP cameras then you can keep a computer in the attic, the basement, just somewhere concealed, and keep it powered with a battery back up charged by a few solar panels. I'll see about getting some specifics later on. Busy at work right now.
Problem solved... I use this for my house and while it takes a little fiddling with the setttings on the motion program (debian aptitude search motion) it's awesome. You can get video clips of significant motion events during the day in any format you feel like with preview pictures. I have mine hooked up to a Microsoft LifeCam Cinema. I also use ssh port forwarding to let me see my video stream from any computer with a web browser. If you want functional & DIY this is it. You will of course need to position the computer within one usb cables length from the camera.
I took a simple approach to it given that most thief's are opportunists and typically spend just a few minutes inside.
I wasn't interested in capturing video or still photos--all I wanted was to protect my stuff from theft and fire, sound an alarm (internal and external horn), and send email/text alerts.
I'm using the Chamberlain CWA2000 Wireless Motion Alert for detection. It supports up to eight sensors.I have sensors outside and inside that are cleverly concealed.
The receiver is powered by a UPS installed in the attic, and I've disconnected the UPS buzzer so as to not alert the bad guys if they have disrupted the main AC. (My outside AC panel has a padlock on it as a minor deterrent.) Use the output of the receiver to trigger whatever you want.
As for a "safe," most so-called safes aren't--they're really "residential security containers" (RSC). Anyway the one I have is securely bolted into concrete. (You'd be surprised how quickly a competent thief can move/load a free-standing 700 lb. RSC!) When I'm not home all my valuable stuff is in the RSC. It's also fire-resistant for 30 minutes.
Also check out www.smarthome.com for all kinds of things.
If you're Linux-savvy, try Zoneminder. All you need is a PC and a camera, for which there are extensive compatibility lists online. Once you have motion detection working, you can set up a shell script to copy to a remote host - in case the Zoneminder box itself gets stolen. For bonus points, use a small-form-factor PC and hide it somewhere clever, like behind a ceiling tile or under the staircase.
If you're not so comfortable doing it yourself, there are many vendors online who sell pre-configured kits including a recorder unit, cabling and a few cameras. I think the price range starts around $500 to $700 if memory serves... some of them come with mobile apps and "cloud" storage so you can monitor your home on the go. If you're in Canada, I can refer you to a good friend of mine who runs such a surveillance store and knows this field better than I ever could.
-Billco, Fnarg.com
But she's specifically asking for a DIY solution, and is apparently pretty serious about it since she's already gotten a dog and a gun for security purposes.
First, DOCUMENT YOUR POSSESSIONS!!!
Take pictures that show model numbers and serial numbers. Keep a list of serial numbers. Keep receipts. Register the devices with the manufacturer as additional proof of ownership. I'm sure your insurance agent told you this when you set up the policy.
A surveillance system would have done nothing to prove the value of what you lost. On video, a $6000 laptop looks exactly the same as a $350 laptop.
As to the surveillance system, there are a number of consumer systems available at a reasonable price. Anywhere from a single camera up to 16-camera systems. $400-500 will buy you a ready-to-roll 8 camera system with DVR and remote monitoring, including iphone/android phone video feed. Not pro-quality stuff but decent. Just make sure you post "This area is under video surveillance" signs at the entrances.
I don't think I'd bother with a monitored alarm system, though I'd certainly consider one that makes a lot of noise and flashes a lot of strobes. The fact that a system is monitored isn't what deters theft. It's the noise and attention that is drawn to the scene that chases them off.
Whether you own any firearms or not, a good gun safe is likely to be useful as an addition to your security system. It's too heavy to just make off with unless the thief is coming with a truck and heavy-duty appliance dolly (for the lighter safes, anyway), and they're bulky enough where they're not particularly quick to manuever out of your house. On top of that, you can always still bolt it to the floor or wall. Most offer pretty decent fire protection as well, offering protection against 1200-1500 degree temps for anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple of hours depending on what you get. They're roomy enough where you can put all kinds of stuff in them too.
Please stand clear of the doors, por favor mantenganse alejado de las puertas
Zoneminder: I use Zoneminder on Ubuntu desktop with Axis IP cameras in a couple of installs (retail location too). New version is good. It's FSF. Downside is very good cameras are expensive, and Zoneminder is a CPU/memory hog with megapixel IP cameras. (Not a project you could Rasberry Pi) So while the software is free, some of the good Axis cameras are over $600 each. IMHO, if you are not interested in spending that much on cameras, just get a Costco system bundle for the time/cost savings. FYI: You MUST have motion capture/detection. There is simply too much data to go through otherwise.
Camera location: It's tempting to put cameras high to 'see more', but you need to have at least one closer to eye level to get a natural looking face picture. Too many people only have high cameras, and you can never clearly see the whole face. I choose a choke point like a doorway or hallway.
Dogs: Effective. But expensive over the long term and time consuming.
Guns: I'm a proponent, but it takes time to be able to shoot effectively. Chance you'll shoot a robber is low.
Safes: Get a better safe. If they ran off with your safe, it was certainly too cheap and small. Floor safes are fantastic when surrounded by concrete. And cheap.
Neighbors: Get to know your neighbors. Coffee and donuts are cheap.
ZoneMinder or Motion for video with motion detection. Have it record locally, and rsync or email pictures offsite. You can configure an arduino with some IR and magnetic sensors to notify you of activity in the house. Video motion detection is not quite reliable enough yet. Alternativly, some alarms (eg DSC 1616 with PC5400 addon interface) have a serial output. Alarm companies have a long responsetime, and getting a notification on your phone is not much help if you are away from home. Therefore, talk to your neighbours and set up mutal notification via phone or siren.
I set up a surveillance rig for an office space a couple years ago on the cheap using axis webcams and a linux box with motion. It can be set to only record images when something moves in the field, is very configurable and workd over tcp-ip so you can expose the cams and protect the server.
Not trying to plug a particular website or mfg, but several weeks ago I bought this:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1610893&CatId=6035
And it's worked out great. My particular issue was trying to figure out how raccoons were getting into my house(!). I had fooled with wireless webcam's etc., a real PITA, and pretty flaky. This Qsee package has two decent day/night cameras, the wires to the cameras, and a pretty decent configuration options including built in motion detection. All you need to add is a HD, which if you're on Slashdot you should have a closet-full.
You can even network it, though I did not do so. The only issue I would see with you is that your intruder might see the cameras and destroy them or get around them. This seems pretty spooky to me.
Also next tip, get some ADT window stickers...not the service just the stickers and the yard sign.
Locking things up in a safe is completely pointless if they can pick it up and take it with them. All you've done is give them an easy way to quickly steal all of your important things.
Your hair look like poop, Bob! - Wanker.
If you're going with a system with obvious cameras, you may want to install a few "honeypot" decoys to throw the thief a little change-up, in case he starts ripping them down to avoid surveillance.
Maybe a boobie-trapped safe, too. Might not be exactly legal, depending on how lethal the boobie-trap is, but it's not like the thief will call the cops and report your trap in a stolen safe. Especially if the boobie-trap is 100% lethal...
or community.
1. You got a gun.. At home so the next burglar can get it as well as the rest of your stuff when you're both out at work again?
2. Dog, what do you do, leave it tied up at home all day alone? Dogs are pack animals it'll end up insane.
3. You will get burgled again, just after the insurance pays out. You're now on a list which'll get passed around.
4. Upgrade your doors & windows. Those are the holes they'll be trying to get through.
Your cheapest security system are neighbours who also have an interest in not being burgled.
Deleted
seriously get rid of the gun. you don't want to kill someone do you? maybe a relative? what about when the intruder gets your gun?? very very unwise.
so we have those bases covered."
Did you train the dog to shoot the gun?
Then you really don't have all of your bases covered, do you now?
intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
http://www.sharxsecurity.com/ has a variety of security cameras. They have wired and wireless, motion-activated notification (by email and ftp), built in storage on camera cards, and more.
They're a bit pricey, (I think I bought a fully loaded wireless and weatherproof model for about $280) but setup was simple and it performed as advertised.
You stereotypers are all the same...
You'll discover very quickly that using motion cues to trigger anything other than a light outside is either going to generate a bazillion false alarms or basically be so insensitive as to miss everything. In my opinion, your best bet is to setup two zones: the exterior zone and the interior zone. For the exterior zone, several fake cameras (really just camera-shaped pieces of plastic with a blinking light) plus a few otherwise indistinguishable real ones plus DVR can be had for pretty cheap (Costco, for instance, has kits as low as $250ish). You can use either the built-in motion detection or cue from an external unit (haven't done this myself but I expect it to be pretty straightforward based on how I've triggered similar systems in the past). Key piece: make sure that the storage ends up being put somewhere reasonably secure, away from the DVR and things that look like they're worth stealing.
For the interior zone, I'd use same trick(s) except this time you want to trigger off window opening / door opening sensors as well as motion sensors. The hard part will be to make sure you match up to consistently. I'd want a hysteresis threshold (after x seconds of consistent motion, send a snapshot, after an additional y seconds turn on the sirens).
All in all, it's pretty straight-forward but it's likely to be time consuming, which leads me to: are you sure that what you need is a security system to re-establish your sense of security?
After our baby came & (later) was awakened - almost hourly - by loud, speeding hoon-driver, zooming past our front door... we decidede that we need a -similar- system... instead of movement-activation, we need noise-level activation.
We'd like to capture the license-plate number (in a clear photo) & the car and driver (2 cam's, for front & back views, if affordable).
What are our options (preferably, from HK- or Australia-based online or eBay shops)?
Over the term of a 36 month contract you get killed financially, it is way cheaper to avoid monitoring contracts, and go month-to-month.
Well, maybe you do, but the point is that isnt the way to solve the problem you are immediately about. What you want to do is catch these people - whether with a camera or otherwise. A security system wont be something desinged with that in mind, but more general goals. It might, for instance, have decoy cameras so as to make it appear better defended, to scare off would-be burglars. You do NOT want to scare these people off, you want to catch them, right?
So focus on that and rethink the problem. One classic and effective technique is to stay in the house while making it appear that you went with everyone else. Then just keep a low profile and very quiet and wait with that baseball bat, and 911 on speed dial...
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Friends don't let friends enable ecmascript.
I'm currently putting together a DIY security system based on opensource LinuxMCE.
My house when purchased already had a mid-90s wired alarm system from DSC. I've taken all the sensors wires off the DSC panel and fed them into a GlobalCache GC-100 (which can be had for a couple hundred $$) connected to my server. LinuxMCE has a bunch of code that takes care of the logic side of things, but if you can write your own code to communicate with the GC-100 you could do away with the LinuxMCE side of things.
LinuxMCE also integrates webcams, ip cams, z-wave security devices, and just about any ubiquitous device into your security network, and that's not mentioning all the other cool stuff it does (home media sharing, telecom, home automation, etc). And it's very customizable. I configured, for example, my doorbell to disarm my security system (in-case I lose my phone, or its battery dies) if its pressed in the correct morse-code sequence.
Tiger Direct
New Egg
I do not believe in karma. "Funny"=-6. Do good and forbid evil. Yours, Oft-Offtopic Flamebaiting Troll.
So how will they come looking for you if your gun is used to commit a crime and it's not registered to you?
Unless you bought the firearm in a face-to-face transaction with a private party (only legal in some states), paid cash, and the person who sold you the firearm didn't record any of your information, then "yeah, they can track you down".
If a person buys a firearm from a FFL (ie. all legal firearm dealers in the US are FFL's) then the purchaser is required to fill out an ATFE Form 4473, which the FFL is required to keep on file forever. This will link the purchaser via government-issued photo ID to the firearm you just purchased. There are a list of ATFE-acceptable ID forms: ID's must have a photo & an address (ie. passports won't work). Most FFL's will photocopy the purchaser's ID and keep it with the 4473 in order to avoid any potential issues during an ATFE audit.
The GCA of 1968 setup this decentralized registration system almost 50 years ago. All that law enforcement has to do is call the manufacturer of the firearm with the model & serial number and the chain of ownership will be tracked down from the manufacturer to the distributor to the dealer and then to you. I believe FFL's have up to 48 hours to respond to an ATFE trace request, but it might be less. Also, moving from state to state after purchasing a firearm isn't likely to pose any difficulty in tracing anymore, thanks to Real ID (it might take a few more minutes, perhaps). Don't forget to check state laws about requiring the reporting of stolen firearms—failure to report a stolen firearm might be a felony in your state.
If your FFL goes out of business then they are required to send all their records (including 4473's) to the ATFE which will keep them forever. Or, more likely, the ATFE will just scan them into a database to make future lookups faster.
Protip: All it would take to create a federal centralized registry of firearm purchases is to pass a simple law to require all FFL's to immediately submit all their 4473 records to the ATFE.
You need to adopt a defense in depth approach similar to computer security.
First you need to block all breakins through windows. install aluminum shutters on all your windows from the inside with remote motors. These run about $200 including labor for a window, manufactured in germany and installed locally.
Then replace your doors with steel commercial fire rated doors. these are over an inch thick and put digital locks on the doors, preferably Kaba Mas which are DoD compliant. The doors run around $1000 including labor.
Thirdly put IP cameras with built in recording. DVRs are too easy to steal. Use Trendnet IP522Ps with built in SD cards. You can also use axis. Make sure you cover all approaches and remove any trees shrubs etc.
Make sure you have 6 ft high fences around your property or whatever the highest available fence height is from your local minicipal regs. behind the fence create a 4 ft buffer zone and plant cacti such as ocotillo. This will deter fence jumpers.
Finally put a vista 20P alarm system you can get cheaply off ebay for $250 or so with panel alarm and sensors. The motion detectors are $10 - $20, the glass break sensors are cheap and door sensors are like $5. Install a GSM board and find a cheap local security company to monitor it.
get a couple of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16881180042
panasonic makes a bunch of them, they all do motion capture and smtp email. setup a gmail account, set the camera to email motion captured pics to the email address.
only bad thing is the smtp server portion doesn't support gmail smtp protocol, so will have to have a smtp server through your isp
I have set a bunch of these up for several friends/family, they just work...
For IP based video cameras have a look at Axis http://www.axis.com/products/video/camera/index.htm
They support motion detection and email alerts. Some models also have digital input so that you can connect something like a door open sensor.
So, for 6-figure costs, some Canadian cities seem to have installed systems that record when cars producing loud noise pass nearby, and tickets are sent to registered owners.
Ours would be somewhat similar, but -much- cheaper, of course.
Seriously, for $100 at Costco you can buy a self-contained unit with camera and motion sensor, which records onto a card just like any digital camera. Now, granted, a genius IT burglar would look for it and take the card. But the pathetic meth-heads you're dealing with will never notice it ;-)
Interesting, are there any particular or specific setups, model numbers etc that we look into?
A trunk monkey.
Have gnu, will travel.
Blue Iris Software (blueirissoftware.com) is a cheap ($50) and very capable home security software package. It runs with a variety of cameras both wireless and wired, has software motion detection, a built-in webpage, alert capability, and is surprisingly easy to set up.
I used Swann Bulldog hard wired cameras (about $28 apiece) and a relatively cheap capture board. I ran the camera wires through the attic, punching through outside walls as necessary. (Careful to waterproof the parts where the cable emerges from the wall.) The cable includes video, audio (for the front door camera), and power for the camera.
The computer is an old 1 Ghz Intel box. 500 Gbytes is more than adequate.
Motion detection sensitivity is adjustable. The software supports creating "dead zones" in the picture so that trees blowing in the wind won't cause excessive triggers.
Mine is set up to email me a snapshot if motion is detected. This puts evidence on a server several miles away in the event the house is broken into and the hardware is located and compromised. (If I were truly paranoid I would put a webcam on the server itself so it couldn't be approached without triggering an alert.)
The software includes a website that is accessible from the outside world via dyndns. I can bring up the website on my smartphone and see the output from all cameras in real time. If I'm away from home, I'll typically get an alert that someone has approached the house (usually the front door) and can push a button to see what they're doing there in real time. (Most of the time it's a delivery person.)
At night, my cell phone sits on its charger by my bed. If I get an alert, I can check all the cameras without getting out of bed. (I can also access the website from my office at home or at work and see what's going on in real time.)
This has been useful twice, once when a woman opened the gate to let my dogs out, (long story involving a real estate rep's vendetta against dog owners in the neighborhood) and once when kids stole the hubcaps off my daughter's car.
It is routinely useful in that I get to see my daughter come home from school every day. I text her "welcome home" when I get the alert. She has been in turn gratified and irritated depending on her mood. You know teens. :-)
Since the computer was an old repurposed machine, total cost was $50 for the software, $28 X 4 for the cameras, about $30 for the cables, $150 for the capture card, and a few hours of my time. I intend to add more cameras when the cost of wifi enabled weatherproof pannable cameras become more affordable. The software supports remote control of a servo-controlled webcam.
In my opinion, I have a superior system to subscribing to a service. For one thing, my recurring cost is zero. It's true that I have to take care of the threat recognition part and contact the authorities myself, but I'm comfortable doing this, and there is a certain amount of peace in seeing my daughter safely home from school.
Disadvantages: The cameras have a ring of IR LEDs around the camera element. This creates a warm zone that spiders appear to like, and appears to trigger some homing instinct in hummingbirds. So I occasionally get photos of giant hummingbirds and huge spiders emailed to me. It was a little unnerving at first, but I have gotten used to it.
Oliver's law of assumed responsibility: If you're seen fixing it, you will be blamed for breaking it.
Do you know how a monitored security system works?
I do, I work for an organization with about 100 sites which I have to go in and out of, including during hours when I have to disarm a site.
The security company, by and large, doesn't really care about the brand of system in the site, they can interface to many, so long as they're commercial products. In our case, only one door into a secured area won't immediately set the alarm off, that one door has a delay before the alarm goes off, in which one disarms the system. The attendant at the security company gets an alarm on their computer screen when a site goes off, and they call the police if they don't receive a call within a minute or so of the actual alarm going off, even if one disarms the security system post-alarm. One has to know who to call and has to have a code word to prevent the authorities from being called.
In some residential installations, the security company will call a phone number on the account and ask for the code word instead of waiting for a call.
As far as burglars go, without some kind of monitoring, a burglar will still have a few minutes to grab whatever they can, even while the thing is blaring, as it's unlikely that the neighbors will call the police until the alarm gets annoying and they figure that no one is around to shut it off.
There are also fairly inexpensive ($500-$1000) camera systems with eight cameras (expandable to sixteen) at Costco that use PoE cameras. One has to run Ethernet wiring to locations for the cameras, but the advantage of needing only one battery backup for the main DVR/switch outweighs the use of separate power at each camera, in my humble opinion. I'm considering a system like this, but I know that I'll probably spend another $500 wiring for it, with the horizontal cable, the patch cords at each end, the conduit pipe for the outdoor cameras, the patch panel, the snap-in connectors, and the like, and that's assuming that I can coax an old battery backup back to life with a new set of SLAs for it.
There's no good cheap solution, in my opinion. If one is in a house, signing up for monitoring for a certain amount of time may yield a free system for detection.
Do not look into laser with remaining eye.
is so damn useful against people who in your home when you are not. I'm sure the thief will enjoy acquiring you gun next time they break in.
sigh. anyways.
A) The events in your backyard may have been happening prior to the break in, but you didn't notice or put any pattern together. You increased awareness is not making a pattern.
So, don't assume when you catch someone out there, there are the thief.
B) Camera with motion detectors.
C) Get vibration detectors on the windows. With them to your computers. if activated, have it send you a text. The you ca go online and check you're cameras.
D) Do you trust your neighbors? Communicate with them, see if they have had in issues.
E) Get a security company sign and put it in your front yard. Hell, but a fake key pad in plain sight with blinking LED.
Good luck with the insurance company.
The Kruger Dunning explains most post on
I got one of these, a few generic ipcams and a few zwave sensors and now i get notification to my droid in under 2 seconds when a door is opened or there is motion inside while im away. Http://micasaverde.comp
1) Purchase lots of stuff 2) Leave your doors unlocked 3) Use only the stuff that people don't steal
therefore, ninjas.
This system can combine a DIY with some pro monitoring if you'd like that, with no contract what-so-ever. You can pick and choose the stuff you want (pads, wireless arm/disarm systems, motion sensors, entry sensors, etc) and the whole system is wireless and cell-based. No land-line needed and for $5 it can text you instead of paying for their service. Now that doesn't cover your camera bases, but there are a bunch of other systems commenters have already dropped on you for that.
Blue Iris software
http://blueirissoftware.com/
I know that you're looking for a nerdy techno-solution, but have you looked into a neighborhood watch? If your house has been broken into then the thieves / backyard guests are probably stealing / visiting your neighbors, too. If there is someone who works from home (even occasionally) they can keep an eye out and call stuff in. I don't have the source handy, but I seem to remember the Seattle PD saying that something like 90% of their residential burglary- & trespassing- type arrests come from neighbors calling stuff in.
In Seattle we've actually got a Crimewatch coordinator position on the police force - an officer like that can answer your questions about how to secure your property & neighborhood, and will even drop by your neighborhood watch meeting once you've got 10+ people or so. They don't stop the guy directly but they know a ton about how to deter thieves & make it easier to catch them.
As an added bonus it'll get you talking to your neighbors. There's really no reason to talk to your neighbors in modern America (except for stuff like this), and a shared threat really makes people come together. Our neighborhood watch started out banding together against the 'troublesome houses', and expanded to neighborhood cleanup days.
A waggy tail dog is twice the deterrent as an alarm. Burglars want to be unnoticed. They don't want any noise. They come when you are gone. A gun is an attraction. Unfortunately once they hit the jackpot they are five times more likely to come back. I suggest some sort of camera and you catch them before he comes to my place
99% of the time a very loud siren will stop the theif from spending much time in your property. Even if you had the most expensive ADT setup it still takes minutes for police to do anything about it anyway.
You can pay ADT $45/mo for 5 years to install $200 worth of equipment and feel better. But you can get better results installing your own system and hooking up with something like NextAlarm for $17/mo no contract and get email/SMS notification when anything goes wrong, check event history such as who armed and disarmed and even get SMS when your housekeeper disarms/rearms, etc.
This combined with a cheap Lorex/Swann net connected DVR system from Costco that lets you instantly see 8/16 channels of video from your smartphone will be more than adequate.
There is a small learning curve when programming your own alarm panel, but since you are asking Slashdot, you probably know how to google already. Hopefully.
Apparently reading comprehension is not your strong suit. The cops told them that they ignore ADT alarms (which is absolutely true). The reason is because their installations are so bad that false alarms outnumber actual alarms >100 to 1. I work in the physical security industry (commercial installations, not residential).
"Think about how stupid the average person is. Now, realise that half of them are dumber than that." - George Carlin
I have a dedicated 4 camera+DVR system from Lorex. Similar to this system. $150 on sale. Many here will poo poo the video quality, but the deterrent factor has worked ever since we installed it. Kids in the neighborhood were throwing rocks at the house, and after the cameras went up, with sign in the window (Smile, you're on Candid Camera!), it has stopped completely. (Yes, we talked to parents, etc...didn't work. Telling the kids "I can see you, always" did work.)
Motion detection, so-so IR, FTP, email, web server remote access (ActiveX...grrr), screeching alarm if signal is lost from any of the cameras. Quality is good enough that, on vacation last year, I was able to call my daughter and ask her why she hadn't fed the cat yet.
The box is small enough that a burglar won't find it quickly. And it runs some Linux variant, so hack away! The motion detection is tough to get right. Clouds, bushes, damn...all trigger it. But you can +- the sensitivity, and mask off certain zones.
Also, dig a 20' wide moat around your house and fill it with salt water and crocodiles
Next, fill your house with carbon monoxide and install claymore anti-personel mines at all entrances to your house (remember: FRONT TOWARD ENEMY)
Then hire some members of the Zetas Mexican drug gang to patrol outside your house with AK-47s night and day. Avoid hiring Bloods or Crips; lazy.
Now, and this is the most important part, join the Marines and move on base with your wife. You should be safe now, surrounded by several hundred armed Marines at all times.
I know this is coming late but a standard Debian install with motion and wput installled uses any USB webcamera to record video on motion detection and the upload the best image (or images) to an FTP server. So you can get local video and also back up images offsite. It is so cheap you can have several of these working independently. I used this system to monitor landlord movement at my last place and got most of the place covered with a laptop and a netbook.
Common sense is not so common
Whether the dog attacks or just wags it's tail, let the laser do the hard work.
And, actually mentioning the name of the product would be too hard because ... ?
My experience is mostly with the cameras. I've got a home "peek in" setup using cheap trendnet cameras. They've got some nice upside. The mjpeg image stream is easy to break out and put into a quick HTML page, they're cheap, they're reasonably reliable. The downsides are they're activex heavy for things like motion capture, and they're only 640 x 480. The overall trend with netcams seems to be cheap = 640 x 480, if you want megapixel, you're going to have to overpay.
In my setups, i completely ignore the prepackaged multi-camera monitoring software. It's crap from trendnet, and it's crap from most anyone else. I've tried Zoneminder, but it didn't like my cameras or the low horsepower box i gave it to run on. YMMV. For me, I say break out the java / whatever applet with a little HTML copy and paste and roll your own look-in. For monitoring I do scheduled records and motion triggered FTP uploads. Any NAS you buy will have an FTP server, and you can put the NAS wherever you want. One nice thing with the netcams is that you can usually turn the status LED on or off manually. Some of my cameras are off, but the ones covering entry points I make sure to leave on and blinking. I figure your eyes are drawn to light and motion. Someone sees the light, then sees camera and decides "mmmmmaybe the house next door is a better option....."
For the "real" security system, just buy one. It's easier to explain to your homeowners insurance, and you really have to balance out the whole "your time and effort vs. paying for a service" metric. You can roll your own, but the over the counter solutions and monitoring with a name brand can trump the solution you put together. There's nothing that says you *have* to buy their camera system, or put *their* monitors on all of your doors.
For your stuff (computer related anyway), PREY is the bomb. Easy to install, configure, runs on any desktop or most any handheld OS, and it's FOSS.
But at the end of the day, your stuff's still gone. Sorry. Your security system, at best, might help catch the assholes before they hit someone else. The MO, In our neighborhood anyway, seems to be that a couple guys come in from out of town. They stay with friends for a month or so, and stake out neighborhoods. They hit a few houses in a couple different neighborhoods over a couple weeks then *poof*. Back from whence they came, ready to fence stuff a couple hundred miles away that's already fallen off the local cops radar.
There are some people that if they don't know, you can't tell 'em.
In Cincinnati, be sure to register your "monitored" alarm system with the False Alarm Reduction Unit. If you don't register, the first false alarm will cost you $100 and subsequent false alarms will be $800 each.
After you register, here are the fees for false alarms in a 365-day period:
1st and 2nd none
3rd $50.00 Fee may be waived if user attends an Alarm User Awareness School offered by the Cincinnati Law Department
4th $75.00
5th $100.00
6th $150.00
7th $200.00
8th $300.00
9th $400.00
10th $500.00
11th or more $800.00 each occurence. No, this is too complicated for me to make up: False Alarm Unit Registration
If I used a sig over again, would anyone notice?
We've already gotten the dog and the gun, so we have those bases covered. What suggestions do you have on setting up home security systems, and what have you done to build one in the past?
Think about it: because of the very unfortunate burglary of your home, you're now recapitulating the sick zeitgeist of the country you happen to live in (which I assume is the US) in your personal lives, on the scale of your home. You've already got a scary dog and a fricking gun ("bases covered" as you put it, as if taking those steps are just natural or common-sense). Now you want to go all NSA with the surveillance. Next it will be personal drones, making sweeps over your property. There are a scary number of slashdotters who get dripping hardons for that already.
You don't have to live armed and high tech paranoid. The solution might be difficult at first, such as living a lifestyle with fewer valuable things, or moving to a safer area or with more neighbor presence, or adjusting work/home to be home more often. Document your belongings more thoroughly to make insurance claims more foolproof. Most people don't *keep* getting broken into, so very much militarization of your life will be unwarranted.
I've been there, I've been broken into, and I know the feeling of vulnerability. It can take a while to get past.
I've always perferred using a Resuce Panther.
you can buy off-the-shelf systems for about $500. Brand name escapes me, but essentially it's a recording box, 8 cameras. Think you need your own LCD, not sure. The cameras are dedicated co-ax, and you can set up the recording box for web hosting, email notifications, etc. They sell the boxed set at Frys.
Personally, I'm a fan of IP camera systems. They certainly cost more on a per-camera basis, but anywhere you can get a wired cat cable, or anywhere your wireless signal reaches (with power, and some are even solar), you can put a camera. Personally I have IP cams set up with a product called Blue Iris. The software isnt perfect, I can't get the motion tracking to work, but it does just fine with motion detect. I liked the old version of the software better, it took rapid fire high-quality photos upon motion detect. The current version creates a video file. Problem is it seems to lag starting up the video so if something is moving even reasonably quickly thru the frame it misses catching the object. I've had to change my camera locations to accommodation this flaw, so that the cameras tend to catch coming/going motions instead of left/right motions. A better computer might make this problem go away, but the whole point was for me to use one of my older unused systems as the security box. Anyway, I like Blue Iris because it can take virtually any type of camera input and turn it into a security cam. I have 2 logitech eyeball webcams watching the computer room entrances, two trend net IP cams watching external doors, 2 veo oobservers watching side-yard egress lanes (im having trouble with the veos in the software though, will probably replace), and one pretty good logitech IP cam hooked up to a motion-triggered IR lamp for watching over the back yard at night.
The logitech and trendnet cams came with their own software, but was not cross-brand compatible. The logitech one has a nice feature in that it also records all of it's capture data locally on a flash card, so even if connection to the host system is cut you are still recording data.
My host system, 2 web cams, and 2 external door cams are all on a second-hand UPC that has theoretically 6-8 hours of battery life, and the host system is bolted and locked in place. It's about as secure as I'm going to be able to make it, all for less than $1000 so far.
Because google is your friend
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=logitech+surveilance
Logitech Alert. Their only line of video security cameras.
The original post was sloppy, I agree.
I guess you completely ignored the fact that the poster mentioned that police ignore most of the ADT service calls because of false alarms. You didn't even have to RTFA; It's in the summary.
Don't be such a tightwad. Get an edukation.
Dealextreme has multiple police reports against them in Hong Kong, mostly for fraud, failing to deliver, giving out fake tracking numbers, not refunding people, etc. Avoid them like the plague. Do your own research on "dealextreme scam" and such.
As an added bonus:
Here's a frame of the video captured from two of the robberies that happened just recently:
* http://www.tv2.no/nyheter/innenriks/krim/her-knivranes-oslokiosken-3683472.html
* http://www.vg.no/nyheter/innenriks/artikkel.php?artid=10079532
Camera recorded to it's own SD card, transmitted it to PC by itself as well as to an online repository.
All cameras are available, if we want to, through a nice Logitech created camera-portal.
One of the robbers were arrested as a result of this video.
but I bet you could adapt it...
Nullius in verba
There is an old joke about campers hearing a bear outside a tent. One starts to put on his shoes and the other says, "don't be stupid, you can't outrun a bear." whereupon he replies, "I don't need to outrun the bear. I just need to outrun *you*."
Security is much the same. A friend bought a house. Upgraded the locks and alarm after a minor burglary. Next time, the burglars backed a pickup across the front lawn and smashed through the French doors, threw in the CD collection, stereo and other valuables and took off. They were probably long gone before any police dispatch would have gone out. You can't do a lot about that but you can make your house less inviting than those around you.
Trail cameras are relatively easy to set up but you do need to remember to change batteries, clear memory cards and such. Reconyx has some security models that will automatically overwrite the oldest photos but you still have to supply power. And no trail camera will be of use if it is stolen so get a security case as well. Reconyx is pretty pricey. I've left a cheaper Bushnell out front to at least see who is on my porch when away. Over the holidays there was a spate of thefts of packages left on the porch by UPSEx so I figured it couldn't hurt.
You can use a motion detecting camera like one of the many Axis models and set it up to automatically send pictures off-site.
Unless you spend $$$$, you are likely to be fairly unhappy with the quality of the photos - especially in low-light - but they are better than none at all.
Much better, however, to close the barn door rather than just having photos of the cows leaving. Your local PD is usually happy to offer a security assessment. Avoid some of the rookie-mistakes. I complained a few times to my wife about leaving purse-like things or keys in sight in the car. She wasn't worried since they weren't important keys and the purse didn't have valuables. She changed her practices when I pointed out that the thief will only discover that fact *after* smashing the window. Another rookie mistake is leaving garage-door openers in outside-parked cars. That's usually an easy way into the house. Once in the house, are your car-keys in plain sight or an obvious place? Then how nice of you to provide transport for your goods.
Make sure your doors close well, have decent deadbolts, your windows latch securely, your landscaping doesn't offer easy places to hide. Even fake security or video signs can be enough to send a burglar to another house.
Some people worry about getting the best pick-resistant locks. While you don't want one that is trivial to open with a bump-key, much more than that is overkill. Few burglars know anything about picking locks - they are looking for some quick cash to feed their addiction so they are more likely to go through the open window or unlocked door.
Finally, at the risk of making you more paranoid, some burglars like to return a couple months after the original crime. By then, your insurance has paid off and you have lots of shiny new stuff for them to steal.
~~~~~~~
"You are not remembered for doing what is expected of you." - Atul Chitnis
Hosted in the cloud to boot: https://www.dropcam.com/
The problem with cameras alone is that you can only document the theft. This is trivially defeated by thieves wearing face masks, bandannas or just hoodies (which they love to do anyway.) The police will not be able to use your images unless they are clear enough.
Other people already advised you to get a service from ADT or others. This will be better because this service is on duty 24/7. Once the thieves enter they will be greeted with a loud beep, and a siren within 30-45 seconds. Yes, they can say "whatever, we still have three minutes" - but that's not much and is fraught with danger. This can be also connected with your insurance; if known items are taken from a house that is protected with a security system the insurance company won't have too many options besides paying up.
If you don't want to pay ADT you still should buy a security kit and install it. You can use a wireless one for simpler installation. My house is wired for that and I'm using a DSC control panel (I am the installer and have all the codes.) The system can actually be programmed to dial your cell phone - there are many configuration options. This will specifically tell you what happened, what zones are triggered, and so on.
You still can have video cameras - I have a few - but they can't be your sole source of intrusion events. They are actually pretty bad at that. Cameras can be defeated, but more often than not they don't deliver all on their own. Outdoor motion detection is mechanistic; a slow motion will be missed, but a swaying branch will cause false alarms. Opening of a door, or an indoor motion detected with a PIR sensor, will be far more reliable.
To summarize, I recommend installing a proper security system at your home and augmenting it with cameras. This will both deter the intruders and capture their faces for possible complaints to the police. If your house allows, install a perimeter monitoring - there are many relatively inexpensive modules that will plug into your security system, into an early warning zone. Put an external PTZ camera (maybe a dummy one) on a scanning pattern so that the thieves can see it.
If you make the house look like it is well protected then most thieves will simply look elsewhere. This is the best you can do, short of hiring armed guards. Your own guns will only serve to protect you; and if you ever have to shoot an intruder you may find that not all DAs approve culling of the herd of criminals.
Now that you have the gun and the dog you really should get some training for both. You and your wife need training with the firearm, even if said training is only practice at a firing range, so you can be familiar with it that you can use it in a tense situation. The shot groupings you get at the range will double in size when you are under pressure, that means if your shot pattern is as wide as the silhouette target at the range, a significant portion of your shots will miss. If you have a pistol look at glaser safety slugs, they will not penetrate your drywall and endanger your neighbors. If you have a shotgun, even better. If you have reason to feel that your life is threatened, you have at that point a moral and legal right to kill an intruder if that is the only apparent way to end the confrontation. Of course, if you do not believe you could ever pull the trigger (a opinion one really can't form until they have given it much thought and used the weapon several times, at a range of course) then sell the firearm, it will only be a liability and a danger to you, although many burglaries have been averted by the simple sound of a shotgun pump sliding back and forth.
Also remember that the gun is only useful if you are home to wield it. If someone breaks in while you are away, you may be held criminally liable for allowing it to be stolen, depending on where you live.
The dog also needs to be trained so that it cannot be distracted by any treats that an intruder might present, and instead attack when necessary.
I would also carry a folding knife with me in case I should come home early and meet an intruder, in such a scenario, don't brandish the weapon in an attempt to dissuade someone. An intruder may be a career criminal and much more used to violence than you are. If you have to use a knife, have it ready but as hidden in your hand as you can make it.
Now of course all of this only applies to an actual confrontation. If there are no children to protect it is best to avoid any such confrontation.
Good luck, I sincerely hope a camera and a call the the police are all it takes to stop whoever it is from trespassing in your home while you are away.
Sorry I don't have advice on the camera set up.
Logitech has a system that I purchased for my home: Logitech Alert.
You didn't specify exactly what you meant by "cheap," but you can get a full six-camera system (the max # of cameras it will support) for around $1,000.
720p cameras, motion detection, video stored on SD cards in each camera and copied to your PC, remote access, email alerts... It's got pretty much everything.
The best part is how ridiculously easy it is to set up. The system uses your home's electrical wiring to communicate between the cameras and the base system, so you literally just plug everything in and you're up and running. I was shocked at how easy it was to set up.
Here's some sample video from the camera on my front porch (which, by the way, I exported from their software to YouTube in just one or two clicks).
At work we have some IP cameras by Panasonic that do automatic emailing when they detect motion during a specific time period, I think those would be perfect for what your are looking for.
Also another IP camera option would be some IP cameras from a company call Ubiquiti http://www.ubnt.com
http://www.ubnt.com/airvision
Their AirVision product line is new and not quite prime time for a professional installation, however it does everything that you are looking for and won't break the bank (about $100 per camera and the software is included for free).
Their software supports floor maps and field of view configurations so that you can see what cameras are seeing motion. When a camera sees motion it can be configured to Save it to hard disk and alert. It also supports being able to worry about motion is a portion of the field of vision of the camera and capture statistics about that segment. For example if you had the camera pointed at three parking spaces you could create separate motion sensors for each parking space from just one camera.
Good luck!
Been there. I suspect that most burglaries are crimes of opportunity, so a few reasonable precautions will buy you most of the deterrence that you will achieve with even the most extreme measures. Buying a gun and wiring your house for surveillance is a double edge sword -- you feel more secure, but you are also constantly reminded to feel threatened.
Logitech has a system that I purchased for my home: Logitech Alert.
You didn't specify exactly what you meant by "cheap," but you can get a full six-camera system (the max # of cameras it will support) for around $1,000.
720p cameras, motion detection, video stored on SD cards in each camera and copied to your PC, remote access, email alerts... It's got pretty much everything.
The best part is how ridiculously easy it is to set up. The system uses your home's electrical wiring to communicate between the cameras and the base system, so you literally just plug everything in and you're up and running. I was shocked at how easy it was to set up.
Here's some sample video from the camera on my front porch (which, by the way, I exported from their software to YouTube in just one or two clicks).
Do not read this sig.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16881102057&
Buy extra licenses on Amazon, and use yawcam too.
-b
Hello,
Steve here, a Security and Surveillance consultant for nearly 15 years now.
If you want the most" Bang for the Buck" Here is what I recommend...
Parts:
1. Any P4+ PC with 2 Pci ports... Bigger Hard Drive the Better, bout a gig of ram does fine. = 50$ all over Craigslist (XP or +)
2. Geovision GV600v2 on Ebay... (canada61 has them for 35$! It is a 4 Camera DVR Card) = about 45$ shipped
3. Land Line or Magic Jack Phone Line, can be used for other things... Piggy the fax line or second house line etc. = 40$ max
4. Supercircuits(My Former Employer) IR Outdoor/Indoor Dome - Product # CD33WHR-2 = $89.99ea
5. Standard PCI winmodem = 2$ anywhere... as they are useless other than for this...
Total for a see in the dark, internet ready, video motion, PC-DVR 4 camera system, under 550$ total + cables and monitor. :-D
Not only does the Geovision card allow relatively easy setup, you can expand to 8 cameras by adding another card up to 16 cam I believe.
It gets you remote viewing over the web, motion detection for each connected camera, and if tied into the phone line, can be setup to call you and alert you to a thieves presence in real time. A Schedule can be set for the motion based alerting (Like the hours you are at work) and you can set video motion sensitivity for each camera, as well as select a specific portion of the screen each camera sees. (Like outlining doors and windows or other entry points so it only alerts on motion in these places, its great for avoiding pets sitting areas to avoid false alarms)
I put this EXACT setup in place at my current employer, and caught the a-hole that was troubling us just after 1AM Feb 16th 2012...
Good Luck!
Steve
Veteran Surveillance Tech
P.S. I personally bought from that Ebay seller I mentioned above, we had Zero issues and got our cards fast.
Not true. Plenty of options for self-monitored systems. If you want a hard-wired system and have a land-line, you can get setup for about $400. Video would of course cost more, but I've seen systems through costco than can be setup for a few hundred. For under a grand you could be setup.
Exactly right.
Google will find many such systems, some with night vision, many of them with wireless cameras which go a long way toward reducing installation costs, and allowing you to hide the recorder without a lot of wires running to it, making it harder to find and steal.
Lots of these also have text messaging or email alert systems and some even have remote monitoring that you can access from any web browser (including your phone).
Monthly services have such a high false alarm rate that police are starting to charge big money. Nobody will watch your home like you yourself. And you will learn to adjust it so false alarms are minimized. If you have a 24/7 internet connection a live monitoring feature can save you from panicing every time a neighbor's kid kicks a ball over the fence.
Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
So I can avoid them.
Interesting, are there any particular or specific setups, model numbers etc that we look into?
http://www.newegg.com/Store/BrandSubCategory.aspx?Brand=1080&SubCategory=521&name=Surveillance-Cameras
Blue Iris is a video monitoring system. Fairly close to professional grade, and free. Large selection of IP cameras available. I was going to recommend this if no one else had (I work in the physical security industry).
If you want to see who's wandering around your yard get a decent quality IP camera and go to the trouble of configuring it. I very highly recommend Axis cameras (and very highly recommend AGAINST Sony cameras), probably the 216FD, or the M3304 or 216MFD if you need megapixel resolution. Expect to pay >$500 if you go that route, but they're worth it and when you're done you can sell them again for a decent price. Log into the camera, set your IP address, and set up motion detection. You'll see how to do it, it's pretty straight-forward. Try to make sure that your motion detection area doesn't include any bushes or anything else that moves in the wind. If you get an Axis camera you can download the Axis Camera Station recorder for free, which is a nice, basic video recording system that is pretty easy to configure (easier than Blue Iris, even). Set it to record continually to a hard drive you don't use for anything else (a cheap external USB drive works fine), since megapixel video sucks up drive space at a pretty phenomenal rate. Three or four images per second should be sufficient, and the camera will raise motion alarms that make it easier to review the recordings. Put it inside a window or under an eave, you don't want to deal with the cost for weatherizing something that's just temporary, and since any of the cameras I mentioned are POE you just need a CAT-5 cable and your system is set.
"Think about how stupid the average person is. Now, realise that half of them are dumber than that." - George Carlin
I would suggest using cameras used by hunters. They can be easily hidden outside and have a long battery life. Can then check the SD card for what you are looking for.
We missing something here. Forget Technology and guns.
The problem is that your neighborhood is empty and prime for trouble.
Pesky neighbors are annoying but effective at keeping people under watch.
So take a day off work or work from home, keep a low profile and see what you see.
I bet it's just a pair of highschool kids that chill on your property regularly
after school and one broke in for some extra crash one day.
Swiping a power brick is pretty lame.
http://alert.logitech.com/ - seems pretty decent.
My career is in security, actually. My point was that most burglars will high tail it the hell out of a house when the alarm goes off, thinking the police are already on their way. Even those that actually know what they're doing have no way of knowing whether or not you're monitored. A sticker on your keypad with a number to call in case of false alarms will only increase their perceived risk of staying longer.
Additionally, while many companies do indeed offer "free" systems in exchange for long-term monitoring contracts, with how many of them do you actually own the equipment? You can spend <$1000 on a Lynx Plus and own it for the rest of your life, moving it with you from household to household.
Regarding CCTV, as others have pointed out, there are a million and a half analog CCTV camera manufacturers, many for <$100 per camera. Though the quality/lifetime of them will more than likely suck, they are still available. Throw that in with a ZoneMinder or a cheap DVR and you can most certainly have CCTV for
If they're looking to catch the daytime lurker (and likely robber), I'd imagine you'd want it to be silent.
I use MythTV as a PVR, so adding MythZoneMinder and a few IPCams was pretty simple. It sends me a text message when one of the zones is breached, and I can look at the images or the live feed from my phone or work computer. One of the cameras is a PTZ, and the only time I got to use it in anger, turning it to face the kids who were about to tag my mailbox got them to change their minds. If something's happening that really concerns me, I can call the police direct or ask one or several of my neighbours to help out.
"I've got more toys than Teruhisa Kitahara."
I'm a fan of Where's James. It's free, has motion detection, works with night vision cameras, etc. Just plug in a good webcam and your good to go. It can upload to FTP incase they lift your security system. It's neat.
Get some Ubiquiti Camera's, they are a great deal.
www.ubnt.com
What self-respecting burglar would break in to your place if all you could afford is a Radio Shack system? ;-)
preferably landing on your face.
Shoot them, then claim they appeared to be aggressively holding skittles.
Then say you felt threatened by the sugar,
Motion sensors, a laser sight, and servos attached to the gun along with an intimidating voice requesting authorization to shoot ought to do the trick.
Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
There was once a company which sold tear gas projectors for home use.
I've not been able to locate them, but an alternative would be as good.
Orange smoke grenades are freely available (though not the sort with pull rings and spoons, because their initiator is now Federally regulated!) and if fitted with an electric match (Google the term) could fill your house with orange smoke and chase off burglars.
I suggest orange because no normal fire produces orange smoke.
"This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
Claymores camouflaged as garden gnomes.
It makes a statement.
Very nice. I got a good laugh.
Modest doubt is called the beacon of the wise - William Shakespeare
...I'll be by to take it because you don't seem very bright.
You announce on Twitter when you leave your house ("Off to IKEA!"), you're too cheap to pay for ADT (or even ADT signs and stickers), yet you don't mind paying for equipment so you can sit around and monitor your home.
Let me know when you get the webcams up and running...I'm sure you'll fail to change the default password. I'd rather use the webcams to see when you leave rather than following you on Twitter.
Easiest thing is to get a few $30 network cameras, position them wisely to watch a selected area, but also possible power/internet lines, and 'path' to router(if nothing else you want to know they were there, possibly who or with enough data to call cops and say 'they are in the house, just ripped out camera(s))... For ultra low budget you can email motion detected images to yourself; this way it is offsite and no monthly fees are required(setup an account to check every minute for just motion alerts) Or you can pay $4 a month or so, for a basic free/web/ftp host and have images ftp'd. ;event' than many 'motion situations.
Wireless internet can be handy there.. $20 UPS can power inet and cameras for many hours.
Lots of false alarms can be triggered by the sun/shadows, if this is a problem and are looking for notification on cellphone etc. Try a camera with a 'sound alarm', not very much really causes loud bangs outside a 'real event'... and is more likely to trigger an actual
hide/lockup or have no valuables, decoys, delaying devices(expensive looking junk), heavy empty safes.. hehe so much more..
I recommend everyone that can afford it, and in a semi-risk area buy impact resistant windows(or window bars, they are deterrent as well) for at least the bedroom, and a good security door for bedroom. It can/does happen and a little preparation goes a long way to possibly saving your life.
Prioritize at will:
DOORS & LOCKS
Many a crowbar has popped open front doors that are protected by a thin piece of wood (door jamb). A cheap upgrade would be adding a high security box strike with long screws. Look for MAG 747 High Security Box Strike model 747-C and stagger your screw pattern.
Install a perforated metal screen security door (a good one, not the cheap/thin aluminum kind). Titan Security doors.
Install a Don-Jo classic wrap around door reinforcer which fits on the door under the deadbolt and door knob to stop the door from splitting.
Secure your patio door with a pin-type lock, a key lock, or a steel rod inserted into the door channel.
Get high security locks for your doors from mfgs such as Sargent, ASSA, Medeco, Schlage Everest Primus. Ignore the Schlage/Kwikset stuff you find at hardware stores. You find good locks at a locksmith shop.
WINDOWS
Make sure all windows have a lock and a dowel rod.
Install security window film such as 3M Scotchshield Safety and Security Films or ShatterGARD. You may also qualify for a tax credit if you do so. Films are pricey ($9.50-$13.25/sq ft) but protect you from the smash & grab methods. Also gives you more time to protect yourself should you be home.
ALARM
Installing a do-it-yourself alarm system can be a great (and taxing) experience for first timers. Ademco (Honeywell) Vista 20P is a popular starting point. You can also get fancy with smartphone control of your alarm system over the internet, although I wouldn't recommend it. Check out www.homesecuritystore.com
You want EVERY door and window alarmed, even upstairs. Glass break sensors and motion sensors are good adds, although glass break detection is less effective if you install security film. You can also find a 3rd party security monitoring central station for much cheaper than ADT/Brinks. Look up Alarm Relay and make sure you install and subscribe to cellular backup. They also let you use cellular as the primary (and only) outbound service. Expect to pay $21/month for that (paid annually).
Wireless alarm systems are susceptible to wireless jamming and keyfob frequency theft (savvy thieves). Run wires if you can.
VIDEO CAMERAS
Cameras are cool and also serve a purpose, but you do have to define what you are after. If you merely want situational awareness over a large area, a low res system works fine (NTSC resolution, 640x480, etc.). If you plan on zooming in and cleaning up like the moves, prepare to be disappointed. If you want to identify faces and the camera is far away from your subject, you will need a megapixel generally. The problem is with megapixel cameras from places like Axis that cost $500+. Who wants to stick that expensive of a camera on the outside of a house?
Ubiquiti Networks just released their AirCam series which is a 720p 30 FPS fixed lens camera. The great thing is they are $90-$100 each which allows you to add a lot more video coverage for the money. The monitor software is free also and so far I'm liking it better than more pro pages (LuxRiot). AirCams will send an RTSP stream in various resolutions of your choosing, so you can play it with VLC, or embed into a web server.
Beware of low light expectations. Most cheap IP cameras will disappoint in low light (including AirCam). External lighting (halogen motion flood lights) serve a dual purpose to giving the camera enough light to pick up an image. Otherwise, you're looking at an IR-sensitive camera with a larger sensor (1/2" vs 1/4" CCD on the cheaper ones) and a mechanical IR-cut filter ($500-800 again).
SAFE
Your safe was stolen. I'm guessing it a) wasn't bolted down, b) wasn't heavy, c) wasn't really a true safe, but a small metal box with some fireproofing (which you can take an axe to). Check out Sturdy Safe which does 7 gauge and thicker all around the box. Get a dial lock so it isn't subject to power outages. Lots of upgrades available (4 gauge on the sides, etc.) A big safe (700+ lbs) will be much m
I gave up on Brinks and re-purposed their security system.
Hint: unplug the brinks box from the phone line before you cancel their service incase they brick it on the next auto dial home.
Even with no service the keypads, sensors and sirens still work. And the "protected by brinks" signs still deter.
I wired some TI Launch Pads (or any cheap microprocessors board will do) into the control box in parallel with the motion and window sensor signal wires and the siren terminals, using suitable resistor dividers to allow monitoring. The TI boards are then polled for status 24-7 from the server a few feet away and i get email alerts with recent event log files if siren goes off so I can work out if it is pet's or something worth worrying about.
Some cool additional features additional features are :
ping the (static router assigned) IP address of the dwellers cell phones ( wifi) to see who is home and/or scan for bluetooth MAC addresses in range.
Monitor basement temperature to warn if there is risk of freezing pipes if away on vacation.
Make a simple flood sensor and attach that the microprocessor board to get alerts if the boiler or pipes spring a leak.
Capture from network or USB webcams
That figures for a city. When I lived in San Francisco I had neighbors which would trip my alarm for fun and quickly made the cops tired of showing up. This is a troublesome catch-22 because when your system actually catches a wolf, nobody cares because they are sick of hearing it. I think in these modern times, an internet-attached system is the way to go because it can notify the owner and give them real-time video and data they need to make an informed decision about whether to actually set off a visible/audble alarm and/or notify the police. Everyone hates false positives!
A dog and a gun is a good start, but they won't protect your property while you are out. Dogs can be disabled and guns only work when there is someone home to operate them. Even then, you basically need to shout out from your bedroom: "HANG ON, I'M GETTING MY GUN!" "ONE MORE MINUTE (damned the law which requires I keep my ammo separate!)... OK, FOUND THE CLIP. FULLY LOADED. I SUGGEST YOU LEAVE NOW."
http://tinyurl.com/cnvzt8h - read the reviews. Some of the products work.
I use Blue Iris Remote View (http://blueirissoftware.com/) with 16 Cisco Linksys WVC80N's and 4 Foscam Night Vision cameras. One 24 port switch and a PC with enough disk, and IPCAM for Android, makes the soltuion mobile and flexible.
Replace everything they stole and put the empty boxes out on the curb. Turn out the lights and duck down behind your new flatscreen. When the scumbags come in, blow their brains out with a big gun.
Then, take a picture of their blood and guts. Print the picture at 12x24 feet and put it on your roof.
Problem solved.
Everyone has great suggestions about which technologies and monitoring services to use while the owner is away. The owner even has a new pet dog and firearm for his peace of mind while inside the house. But has anyone considered how the intruder got into the house in the first place?
Hollywood likes to make crimes of opportunity look glamorous; a criminal whips out a pick set and gets to work on your door/safe/vault, cracking it in under a minute while increasingly dramatic music plays in the background. Or they have magic putty in a wooden box that allows them to make a perfect copy of your key while you are looking the other way at the local cafe. It makes for wonderful entertainment, right? However, if his was anything like 99% of home break-ins, the intruder took advantage of weaknesses in the structural integrity of an entryway or a window to full effect. To state it more plainly, they probably kicked in a side or back door. Or if they were really motivated and willing to risk it, broke a window. Or a door or window was left unlocked.
Instead of skirting around the problem set with expensive electronics (with their own weaknesses - what good will a camera do if the intruder is masked?), how about first making sure all door frames and deadbolts will resist a brute force attack? You do have deadbolts on every entry door, right? And a security bar on sliding glass doors? If a would-be thief cannot kick in your door in the first, let's say, 30 seconds, they will probably give up and move on to the next house. Spend what you can on preventing crimes of opportunity, then, if you still have money in the budget, look at monitoring and alarm systems.
Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with any of the following companies, but strongly believe the OP would be better off investing their money on prevention instead of technology that lets them watch a realtime stream in 1080p of someone robbing them again while the police are too far away to respond in time and the dog just sits there with a silly grin on its face.
Locks (search online for a local locksmith or one that will sell over the Internet, if you are comfortable installing them yourself)
http://everestprimus.schlage.com/faqs.asp
http://www.bilock.com/doorlocks.html
https://securitysnobs.com/ (Caveat: nice website, no idea how they are to deal with)
Door frame reinforcement
http://www.asafehome.net/
Window security film
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Window_Film/Solutions/Markets-Products/Residential/Safety-Security_Window_Films/
Sliding glass door security bar
http://www.masterlock.com/product_details/SecurityBars/265DCCSEN
and have a land-line
You do realize that the land lines connect outside the house. It is trivial to disconect the telephone service to a residence (and internet for people like me). Most thieves may be too uneducated to notice, but I would not invest in any security system that relied on something so easily disabled.
"For I desired mercy, and not sacrifice" -- God
Motion activation is easy, just about any DVR does that, and it is crazy simple stupid how it is done. The DVR or the Camera(both can do motion detection) will keep a number of video frames in memory and compare a couple in a series and if too many pixels change between images the change will trigger a motion event. Super simple, and super effective to the point you can have anything like a cars lights driving by set it off. False positives will happen, but it is better to have a surveillance system than not have one at all.
I happen to work with Geovision and Avermedia. Of the two, Geovision has more features but Avermedia is the one that is simpler to use. Depending on how far away the cameras will be and what type of detail you are after will depend on the type of camera. If you suspect people coming on your property then you will want vandal resistant cameras. If you go analog then you will want to go 600 to 700 TV lines. The type of lens you need will depend on what you want to see. A lens that is 3.8mm will have around a 1:1 aspect ratio the higher the mm lens the closer the view and tighter the angle, the smaller the mm lens the smaller the aspect ration but the wider the angle. If you want some serious detail then you will want to look into IP cameras or into HD. While the IP camera will have only a slightly better image when looking at it in the DVR Software, the true beauty of the IP camera comes when you go to use digital zoom. The IP camera is a Megapixel camera, and the higher the Megapixel then higher the amount of information it will captuer, the higher the amount of information you capture then the closer you can zoom in on objects before the image will become pixilated. A 1.3Megapixel camera is comparable to a 700tvl camera, the 1.3 megapixel camera is a little better. However, when you go to IP cameras, because of the increase of recorded information per video still, your cost of storage space will dramatically increase. I believe a 1.3 or 2 mp camera will average 3+ gig/day. That number really is pulled out of a hat also, the amount of space really depends on how much motion the camera will see, the type of codec used for encoding, the FPS the camera records at, the MP of the camera. I have seen systems with IP cameras on them go through 6tb in a day or two.
If you go PC or standalone on the DVR will depend on how the alarm events are done (such as a door opening). For products such as Geovision you will need to get additional cards such as the GV-NET I/O and the GV I/O 12 IN card. If you go standalone, many have the RS-485 connections already there for the alarm events.
This is by far the most impotent piece of advice I am going to tell you:
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
If you buy cheap, you get cheap.
HANG ON, I'M GETTING MY GUN!" "ONE MORE MINUTE (damned the law which requires I keep my ammo separate!)... OK, FOUND THE CLIP. FULLY LOADED. I SUGGEST YOU LEAVE NOW.
Simple answer: Move to Texas, or possibly Florida
"For I desired mercy, and not sacrifice" -- God
These are the Logitech Alert series of cameras. Logitech bought the original startup that created them. The Alert series is the third revision of the line, and yes, it's quite good. (But I'm also biased, as I worked on hardening the core of the software stack before it shipped.) Good times.
Yes, other companies make IP-based cameras, but the motion detection on the Logitech Alert line has had a LOT of time spent on it for tuning. If you want a good IP-based camera that can operate in low light and trigger on motion, and do it on a reasonable budget, I don't know of anything else to recommend.
The ONLY thing I'd say is use your own SD card, not the junk card shipped with it. Just sayin'....
No DIY solution beats a paid service. The poster is 100% correct.
Have another male friend come over and spend the night and "leave for work" in your car, dressed like you. Wait inside with a gun until they break in again and shoot them dead.
I'm sure others have already said this -
Unless you know how the use the gun, get rid of it! You are more likely to shoot yourself, your spouse or the dog.
First - decide if you can kill someone and live with the consequences. Forget about threats - if you point a gun at someone you have to be prepared to use it.
For in-house self defense, consider a 12 gauge shotgun with an 18 inch barrel. Loaded with 6-8 shot, it is lethal but less likely to penetrate interior walls.
You should check out: http://www.cloudsurveillance.com/ All the cameras do motion activation, email, whatever. They can configure it however.
Two laptops were stolen, an iPad, a power brick, a safe (complete with several years worth of taxes, my birth certificate, and old copies of my driver's license),
I guess nobody mentioned that you're supposed to bolt the safe something solid like the floor.
'The tyrant will always find pretext for his tyranny.' - Aesop's Fables
If they are going through your rubbish, they are not planning to enter your house again, they are going to use your identity to order a whole load of stuff on the internet and leave you with the bill. They can max out your credit cards in a day and all the goodies will be long gone before you even find out what they were. You have a real problem to deal with and cameras may look good in the occasional story where someone recognises the person but in the real world that will not happen. You will have a lovely photo of a guy that no one knows while you go bankrupt.
I love stacking my barbecues in the shed at the end of summer - you can't beat a bit of grill on grill action.
works every time.
Shoes for Industry. Shoes for the Dead.
If you have a gun, you don't want a camera. I'm just saying.
-- Terry
Zoneminder, some ip cameras (wired and/or wireless) and a bunch of infrared lamps for the night
I've used them multiple times w/ no problem. The issue is that shipping takes quite a while so it might be just impatient folks filing reports (3-6 weeks).
Depends on who is doing the DIY and who is being paid.
Or a doberman. They're motion-activated, will notify you of entry, etc etc.
HANG ON, I'M GETTING MY GUN!" "ONE MORE MINUTE (damned the law which requires I keep my ammo separate!)... OK, FOUND THE CLIP. FULLY LOADED. I SUGGEST YOU LEAVE NOW.
Simple answer: Move to Texas, or possibly Florida
And Arizona!
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion
One thing that immediately jumped out at me from this post: the safe. Do not rely on a home safe to protect your valuables or important documents. A fire-resistant box is not a bad idea, but the affordable ones are not able to stand up to a fire that burns your house to the ground. And if it doesn't weigh at least 300 pounds, count on it being stolen if thieves loot your home. I'm sure they absolutely love to find Walmart safes, since they know there is likely to be something good in them, and they can simply carry them away to destroy them at their leisure later on. Safe deposit boxes at banks are much, much safer for valuables you don't need to have readily accessible, and are highly under-utilized, IMHO. (No, I don't run a bank or own stock in one.)
To deter break-ins, the cheapest effective thing to do would be to steal a Brinks security sign from the guy around the corner, and perhaps place a couple of faux security cameras in conspicuous places. Nothing, whether video surveilance or a monitored security system, is a guarantee, unfortunately. I saw some professional burglars interviewed in some documentary, and they said they didn't care what you had, since they didn't drive right up with their license plates in full view. Plus they were always in and out in a matter of three to five minutes, or well before the local constabulary could even be dispatched. The one deterrent that works? Dogs. Some dogs are tolerant of strangers, some are too tiny to be a threat, but the thieves I saw all said they will move on to another target if they see any sign of a dog. To them, the presence of a dog means uncertainty, and that a house is not worth bothering with, since there are plenty without dogs.
This is a hacked account, for which the owner can not be held responsible.
Maybe two.
You will love them, they will love you, and the right breed with a little training won't love the people you don't love.
I prefer labs actually. Chocolate and Yellow are my favorites, but the breed over all is a great family / watch dog type breed. There are others, and they vary.
Blogging because I can...
I've long wanted to put one of those systems together....looks to be pretty well supported, and works with a pretty large amount of equipment...
Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
D'oh....!!!
Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
I've worked for a couple of home security companies, and as far as I can tell they ALL have a roughly 99% false alarm rate.
The problem isn't anything wrong with the hardware. It's most often the users. They set off their alarm and don't answer the phone when the alarm company calls.
I'm not saying bad equipment doesn't occasionally cause a problem, but it's almost always user error.
If you really want an alarm and want to reduce false alarms as much as possible, don't get a motion detector. Those things HAVE to be hypersensitive to work worth a damn, and they WILL see heat and motion you don't. A huge cause of false alarms are balloons, especially a couple of days after Valentine's Day. I've seen one be set off by an aquarium pump on a hardwood floor. (It's warm, and it moved around enough to register as motion.)
Really though, the most important part of a security system is the sign on the lawn. Buy an ADT sign off of ebay or something for ten bucks.
WTF??
I've never heard of such a law before...where the heck do you live??
Also...how the heck are they going to catch or prove you keep your guns loaded?
Geez in my house, I have several guns hidden around the house...all fully loaded, with one in the pipe...all I have to do is grab it, drop the safety (for the ones that have it, not the Glocks for instance)...and shoot.
What good is a gun in the house or car or on person (if you have carry concealed license)...if it isn't ready to shoot on an instants notice...?
Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.........
https://www.dropcam.com/ Easy to setup and the camera has night vision.
Well, I only left that off due to monetary reasons. A GSM add-on can be had, but that's an additional $300.
The predictability of human emotion overriding reason is frustrating in the masses, but it's tragic among people (Slashdotters) that should know better. I totally get why dogs are man's best friend. But, it's utterly ridiculous how that status has translated into people thinking that dogs are even vaguely intelligent creatures, or useful for things like home security.
Dogs are stupid. Really, they're stupid. If you rely on a dog as any significant part of your security system, you're not much better. The principal by which dogs are supposed to be good for security is largely the same as that which is supposed to make car alarms work (making noise). Because car alarms are not companions, and therefore people don't have emotional reasons to be irrational about them, people have now largely accepted the reality that car alarms don't do much to stop car thefts.
Dogs also shouldn't even be part of a discussion about cheap security systems. Dogs cost thousands of dollars over their lifetimes, and the bigger they are, the more they cost. And for those people who respond to my previous paragraph by asserting that dogs' purpose is also to attack the thieves, now you're talking about something (training attack dogs), that's not cheap, not easy, and not DIY for average Joes.
Guns aren't that much better. Criminals generally aren't going to know about your gun until they've already broken in (and found you home). Maybe guns would be a deterrent against the same criminals, or one of their friends, robbing you a second time, after robbing you once and finding you at home to show them your gun. But, mostly, the idea that guns prevent burglaries is more fantasy, just like the dog mythology.
I am not a security expert...
I've never been broken into, but for peace of mind and the geek factor, I wanted to have cameras at my house. I got a cheapo Zmodo kit from woot and set it up so the path to all the doors and windows can be seen by at least one camera. That, plus window stickers advertising video surveillance, make a pretty good deterrent. I don't have any items that would make my house a target compared to neighbors, so hopefully a would-be smash-and-grab thief would move along to a place that doesn't have a camera recording them smashing in the front door.
and have a land-line
You do realize that the land lines connect outside the house. It is trivial to disconect the telephone service to a residence (and internet for people like me). Most thieves may be too uneducated to notice, but I would not invest in any security system that relied on something so easily disabled.
FWIW the burglar alarm system I had installed on my previous house, ten years ago, had a cellphone integrated into it that checked for dialtone on the landline, and if it lost that, it sent out a call to that effect, meaning the people with whom I had the contract then tried to contact me on my cellphone to see what was happening. At that point, they claimed that every system worth installing had a wireless callout.
Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
A home break in can really shake really your feelings of safety. As surprising as it sounds, the best advice is to not over react. I added metal bars to my doors and windows and cinderblocked up a basement window. This was much to the detriment of the aesthetic value of my house. It sounds likely your doing the right thing by weighing your options.
An informal, non-scientific poll that I also cannot find the reference for said the #1 deterrent for petty thieves was a dog and the #2 deterrent was the idea that the owner had a gun. I agree with all of the above comments that state that you should learn how to shoot and keep your gun safe. The most likely person to be shot with your gun is you or your family, and it's important to mitigate that risk.
Check with your local police and fire in regards to home monitoring. In Philadelphia, the police won't respond to a monitoring service unless the alarm is "validated" by a third party. The big guys here, ADT and comcast both hire private security companies to validate a break in or fire. That means it takes > 25 minutes before the police are even contacted.
Depending on your comfort level you can install either a wired/wireless home voltage system with IP self-monitoring with Android/Iphone/PC connectivity. If the alarm is tripped a loud siren sounds and you immediately get a text, email, call, whatever. Here's the home IP self-monitoring system I use: http://eyez-on.com./ The device costs around 100 dollars, and there are no additional charges. The more sophisticated options can be a little pricey.
You can also set and disarm your alarm and program the alarm from a PC or smartphone, which is super useful. Most of the IP monitoring devices also support outputing a feed to a central monitoring company. Since you own the hardware, the monitoring is around 10 dollars a month instead of 50, and you're not locked into a contract and can easily change providers. Most IP options also integrate reasonably well with your web cams.
DSC, GE, Honeywell, and Elk all make easy DIY kits that include most of what you'll need. Prices range from 80 to > 700 dollars. I'd advise getting a normal wired main panel and then spending the extra 40 bucks for a wireless keypad so you can run as few wires as possible but still have a fairly reliable system. I spent around 350 for the kit and ip monitoring device for a 2300 sqr foot home. I purchased DSC equipment (it's the least expensive and most widely compatible), and used http://homesecuritystore.com/ and http://safemart.com/ both seem like decent vendors in my experience
As far as web cams, I have 2 D-Link DCS-932L cameras. One in a weatherproof box at my front door and one which sees my entire ground floor. I initially had 2 generations of Linksys cams, but their wireless connection was spotty. No issues thus far with the D-Links (3+ months)
If my alarm goes off, myself, my wife, my father, and a trustworthy friend all get monitoring alerts and the webcam feed. Any of us can call the police and report a true alarm based on the live camera feed.
Again, I'm sorry this happened to you. I hope your feeling of safety in your home hasn't been completely shaken. Take any reasonable step to make yourself and your sig other feel safe in your home, but do your best not to over-react.
What is the purpose of "ask slashdot"? I have not seen a valid answer to any question in years. Every reply goes off on some ridiculous tangent, and/or, every reply is nit-picked to the nth degree eg. (Is it exclamation point-question mark, or question mark-exclamation point?)
I am not trying to pick on you scubamage, I am just annoyed that every time I see a good question and hope I might learn something from the replies; it feels like I just walked in on a bunch of high school nerds trying to one up each other on the ridiculous scale.
I thought slashdot.org was supposed to be a place for the technologically inclined to pass news and information to one another.
WTFHappened?
I've used both Zoneminder and Bluecherry DVR v2 with analog and network cameras.
About two years ago I bought a new home and started looking for ways to set up an IP camera system. I had an old Axis IP camera and started to use that to test Zoneminder with.
Zoneminder appeared to be just about the only open-source linux-based solution out there. Unfortunately, Zoneminder is really not a great product. I wish it was.
Occasionally, the zm process would just start leaking memory until everything was consumed and the kernel killed it.
Configuration options are very complicated, and they make an effort to be generic with their camera support, but in turn, the support for ALL cameras is generic. Much customization and configuration was required for even basic operation.
Terminology and the user interface was very confusing, and the documentation was not a huge help.
Finally, the Debian package, which I tried to use at first, was something like six months out of date when I first started. Then, after they finally updated it, the update completely broke my system and I had to ditch it and start over with the raw project tarball.
I just gave up. I am in the process of moving again and I will probably look for some commercial solution next time, because Zoneminder just didn't work.
Good. Say you have your technology covered. You've got pictures of the criminals, their car, and your GPS equipped server has been stolen by them so you know where it is/they are.
Now all you need is for the police to give a damn and actually *do* something.
Oh yea, one more thing.
I had a huge problem: false positives. How do you keep the system from sending out notifications when you are home and it's you on camera? Well, zoneminder has no way to easily turn that on/off. There is a switch on the main user interface that does it, but I'm not going to break out my web browser every night when I go to sleep or when I go to work. There is no concept of "operating hours" for when notification should and should not be sent.
Find out who your fiance has been having sex with and you'll have a pretty good clue at who stole your laptop.
We have just launched a brand new low cost product called Hydra Control Freak. After persistent troubles over a few years in and around my property my home evolved system was getting pretty good and I decided it would be great to commercialise it. It's not well known yet as the first production run was finished just before Christmas and we are not a large company. Our focus is on proactive early warning video alerting and then flexible real world responses initiated from your smart phone. The idea is that several sensors placed around your property alert you via SMS (Or E-mail if you refer) with links allowing you to see video of what triggered the sensor (It records before the trigger event to ensure this) and provides for very flexible real world response from smart phone buttons.
We aim to provide extremely fast alert verification (A few seconds of the breaching of a sensor you will already be viewing the video stream [MJPG or a Pseudo MJPG stream for Android and other phones]) and your real world response can be very flexible as we support a flexible range of third party output devices. Currently, we support Phidget 4, 8 and 16 port I/O devices for input and output events and responses as well as the cm15a X10 Controller. We aim to support the RFXCOM transceiver shortly as well which will add support to a wide range of home automation products. For sensor input it's best to use quality professional PIRs. For Europe we support a quality sensor from an Italian company called CST Europa that breaks out it's wireless sensors (Multi tech PIR, Microwave, PIR, curtain and door sensors) into a relay box which you can then wire into the Phidget inputs. These have a great range. If you have enough repeaters you can get some milage out of X10 PIRs such as MS13 as well, but their range is not great. Or you can wire in sensors, this gives you a lot of choice, such as PIRs, trip beams etc. By triggering both home automation devices as well as custom I/O you can do things such as trip flood lights and set off alarms before the intruder has entered your home.
Everything about our device is about flexibility and interoperability. You can create pages of custom buttons and then link up those buttons to any manner of events by the gui driven event processor. Some of the output events can be used to add "state" then affects whether other events can fire or not. This state can also have a time to live so you can create actions that must happen without periods of time. In this way for example by using two PIRs you can easily make an alert that triggers on incoming movement (Approximately) but not out going. You would make the one sensor add some state with a short time to live, that like a firewall allows you to walk past the second sensor without triggering the alert. The other way around would immediately send the alert. That sort of thing is easy to do with HCF
Clustering and video slices : Each device can record approx 3-4 video streams depending on the resolution but they can communicate with each other regarding events recording across multiple devices but registering to the same event to the millisecond. There is a view builder page that allows you to build up views or slices across your freaks that line up events that relate to the same trigger. This is automatic, you add the credentials and details of the other freaks in your cluster and when you build your view it queries the cluster partners to see what cameras it has available and alters the selection gui so you can choose between multiple freaks for your current view (Which can also restrict time of day range and event names).
Full HTTPS: The devices comes with a gui-driven trust manager that supports the generation of self signed certificates or the importing of CA signed certificate chains.
WebM: I think ours is the first security device that supports the open WebM format. Please contact me if you know of another, I've not seen one yet.
Scheduled events: You can setup flexible daily events with the same level of flexibility on what the
Yes, and I know how to hack it. Also, your security isn't worth crap. My employer pays me to know how these things work. And they pay well.
-Adam Jensen
It sounds bizarre but certain branches of the military are suggesting spectracide wasp spray for non-lethal protection for military family members. Better distance (30') and accuracy than any brand of mace out on the market and it's only $5 for 20 oz can. The intruder that gets hit will go down fast and won't be getting back up. Loss of eyesight for weeks to a month and many weeks in the hospital. Just a short blast in the face or inhaled will cause central nervous system havoc. Other than that I'd recommend a Mariner 590 but just be aware that the buckshot will go through walls in apartments and duplexes.
Nothing beats a good dog. Mine has already ripped up two would be's. It is a pure blood Rhodesian Ridgeback from the "right" stud. You need to speak with right people. I don't know about the States but in Aus it's not hard to get in touch with the right breeders. It probably will help if you start driving an old ute "pickup" over there and shave your head....
> robberies of our stores
As, if you had witnesses you wouldn't need cameras methinks I'll say this:
You rob at gunpoint.
You burgle an empty shop.
A common mislabeling.
Just move.
Militarizing Your Backyard With Python and AI
Bonus points if you expand the system to include a giant boulder.
You probably have the wrond kind of dog if people managed to break in your house !!!
Moron! ADT alerts the cops. .) The political statement of tattooing "Thief" across his forehead and dropping his remains in a "hood" deemed to be likely his in the dark of night is priceless( drawback, don't be seen, also be sure to wear proper latex gloves and hair netting throughout the experiment and disposal phases. It's likey no one will really investigate the death to the extremes on t.v. due to his status, but let's be careful out there. Public service and science can be dangerous. Make Mr.Wizard proud...
Alas, they screwed motion detection by getting a dog unless it's a backyard cam. Gun was good thinking a bit late in the game.
There was a beautiful part of the last Death Wish movie in which C. Bronson showed his neighbors in the hood how to set up burglar traps.
The only way a dog is gonna help is if it is trained to eat the unauthorized, otherwise he just barks till he gets a scooby snack. It's an empty neighborhood, who's he gonna bark to?
However, if you find an incapacitated hoodlum beside your trap, you can bind and gag him, drag him to the little shed out back. Then there are several experiments you can perform in the name of fun and science, while preventing a disease from spreading, robbing and possibly hurting someone innocent. Law enforcement is a big fail at this, it is costly to the taxpayer,not likely he will get sufficient deterrent from the "legal" system. Hey, he is guilty, after all you caught him. You get to play with him a bit now. Letting him go is no option, now that he knows where you live and he may attract others.
When you are done though, it is a nice touch to be green minded. Don't dispose of bio- waste in an irresponsible manner. There are many avenues to disposal in a responsible way available to the layman. Injection wells , the only place no one will ever see for sure.(drawback, has 6 in. opening to the center of the earth, you gotta make small chunks) Incineration, once you derive ashes,it can be added to compost. (drawback, you need a lot of heat and gasoline fires require a far rural setting
You have a gun and a dog. A gun I don't care about because you can't use it in Europe. About the dog, congratulations little bastard, now you have a son of a bitch barking dog that annoys the whole neighborhood because it misses you, or is bored, or scared. I'd love to live in your fucking neighborhood.
I'll tell you how easy it is to neutralize a dog. I like to take walks. With a pepper spray. Where I live there are lots of walled places with the corresponding loud, loose dog that loves barking at people. So macho. So safe, isn't it. The funny thing is they bark at me like mad from behind the fence; the fence works both ways, isn't it wonderful? An inch away is just as good as a mile away. Now the barking can be fixed: An application of the pepper spray one inch from their eyes and nose is so easy and painless (for me, anyway). The stupid beast then backs away instantly, stops barking and looks at me with a puzzled look, half fear, half shock and the last half disappointment. It looks like it's asking me 'why, why did you do this to me? I'm just doing my job. Why are you not running away scared and disgusted?'. It's priceless. They cannot decide what to do next: run away, timidly begin barking again, or tend to their itchy eyes and nose. I then humiliate them further. I put my hand through the bars, so they see the spray. They feel the urge to chase that adventurous hand away from their domain, the place they must protect, but somehow their will is rendered powerless and they cannot move. It's interesting to look at what goes through their little minds: they look away, hoping I'm not there when they look back at me again, they look back briefly as if asking for reassurance from the owner, but the owner is not there. Then back at me again, not daring to cover that two meters from the fence, not daring to chase the intruder away. Then they learn. Some of the bigger ones sit down and take their time sneezing away. They occasionally look at me imploring me to go away, to stop whatever it is that I'm doing to them. I walk away in wonderful silence. Very rarely they come again to bark at me some other day. So much for your dog, idiot. After some weeks the owner may think 'Hmm Sergeant might be getting a little old, when did he start to like his shack so much? He wanders around the wifey's part of the garden smelling the lillies and the roses, wtf, his aggresive, obnoxious, endless barking used to remind me of my long-lost potency and reassure me that I was safe in my home while watching games in my 797 inch TV. Hmm maybe it's time to dump this sissy of a dog and get a BadAss(TM) new one. I'll be humane and take it to my mother's house, she needs one anyway. Hell yeah'.
Its simple your fiance is having an affair change her. Everything will go away :)
nope they cut his cable connection over which his internet is provided, and conveniently also his alarm system.
The best part is that it is really easy to cut.
i thought once I was found, but it was only a dream.
Option 1 : Get a PC and install something like http://www.zoneminder.com/
Option 2 : Even cheaper, since no pc would be needed, would be to buy a number of openwrt-capable routers, plugin a USB camera of whatever brand you want. Run something like http://www.lavrsen.dk/foswiki/bin/view/Motion/WebHome on each of them and store images on USB sticks or have them upload the stuff to a remote server..
Problem with option 1 is that the pc itself would probably be stolen if someone broke in.
Option 2 would allow you to hide each router much easier and have images synced between them or uploaded to a remote server.... Also it would not require you to draw network cables for each station but you could just setup a mesh network directly from openwrt. It would also allow for using cheaper USB based cameras instead of expensive network-based cameras..
I am using Loftek wireless ip camera and iSpy computer software for motion detection, storage, encoding and internet sharing.
The resolution is quite amateur, but the video quality is good. The camera is not meant for outdoors, but I have put it under the roof and it works well in the winter (+0 C). The only disadvantage was that I had to build a power supply using a regulator +6v at the destination as the current dc one +5 v cannot be extended and the camera is under-powered with longer cable. Of course you can extend the 110 or 220v cable, but then someone can take an advantage of it. The advantage is that you can pan/tilt and adjust the pov from the recording station instead of physically.
CHDK (link to their wikia page) is a custom firmware for a large number of Canon Powershot cameras that can be loaded from the card (and doesn't mess with the original camera firmware) and gives you a lot more features.
For example, after the firmware is loaded you can configure the camera to check for motion and snap pictures whenever there's a certain degree of motion in the frame.
It also gives you the ability to change the video quality to a much better level than the built in presets (selected by Canon to give users a good ratio between battery consumption and record time) so if you take a digital camera and power it from a DC adapter and stick a 16-32 GB card inside, you might just make a HD surveillance camera.
You can shove such modified camera in a teddybear or a larger book and have it conspicuously recording anything moving inside your room.
Don't shoot or send the dog out after these poor folks just trying to do their work which sometimes takes them onto your property.
Remember that thieves are opportunists, so they are looking for weaknesses in properties. If yours is empty during the day, then your property is vulnerable.
Bear alarm tripmines are used all round the world as a deterrent for bears, as well as scaring intruders on your property. You attach the tripwires to the devices and when tripped it releases the mechanism that lets off the 12 bore shotgun cartridge. Obviously not used as a weapon but more a deterrent. You could use paintball landmines and paint mines that have tripwires to tag the intruder for easier identification, as well as something that will probably prevent them coming back in a hurry.
Use covert and hidden cameras to record the intruder. Nothing is more embarrassing than an intruder stealing your fancy security camera.
Secure your property, fit screw in window locks that prevent forced entry; apply coatings to large glass panels that make them shatterproof and impact resistant; fit hinge protectors to doors; invest in London and Birmingham bars on the door and frame to prevent forced entry; change the locks for high security models like Kaba and Abloy, as these locks are less common and harder to pick or bump; lock internal doors and fit them with splined security locks at the top and bottom so that each room is locked before leaving the premises.
Having similar problems with cars being broken into - was at Microcenter and they have just gotten this stuff in stock and its onsale.
4 channel dvr - 59.99
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0373390
Indoor/outdoor camera - 39.99 - they have many kinds of cameras to suit your need - wireless - longer-range camera - dome cameras
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0380207
I just needed one for my driveway - so the whole thing set me back a little over $100. I have been looking for awhile and couldn't find anything under $300 for this same level of functionality (Logitech, Panasonic, etc.)
You will need a hard drive as well but I personally have plenty laying around.
Have not tried it yet but it offers motion detection, smartphone and Internet access, no fees from what I understand.
If its crap it will get returned.
Good luck.
"Do not store up for yourselves treasures on earth, where moth and rust destroy, and where thieves break in and steal. But store up for yourselves treasures in heaven, where moth and rust do not destroy, and where thieves do not break in and steal. For where your treasure is, there your heart will be also.
The eye is the lamp of the body. If your eyes are good, your whole body will be full of light. But if your eyes are bad, your whole body will be full of darkness. If then the light within you is darkness, how great is that darkness!
No one can serve two masters. Either he will hate the one and love the other, or he will be devoted to the one and despise the other. You cannot serve both God and Money.
Therefore I tell you, do not worry about your life, what you will eat or drink; or about your body, what you will wear. Is not life more important than food, and the body more important than clothes? Look at the birds of the air; they do not sow or reap or store away in barns, and yet your heavenly Father feeds them. Are you not much more valuable than they?
Who of you by worrying can add a single hour to his life?
And why do you worry about clothes? See how the lilies of the field grow. They do not labor or spin. Yet I tell you that not even Solomon in all his splendor was dressed like one of these. If that is how God clothes the grass of the field, which is here today and tomorrow is thrown into the fire, will he not much more clothe you, O you of little faith? For the pagans run after all these things, and your heavenly Father knows that you need them.
But seek first his kingdom and his righteousness, and all these things will be given to you as well. Therefore do not worry about tomorrow, for tomorrow will worry about itself. Each day has enough trouble of its own."
Mathew 6:20 - 6:34
I know this is not DIY, but I recently had this problem and it cost me $130 to solve it. I use the Asante Smartbot camera connected via WiFi. I easily set it up to email any suspicious activity to my GMail account. This is a WIndows solution (Gasp!)
- I have a Visonic SecureLinc 2 Wireless device. It's basically a DIY alarm system and it runs Linux, you can buy as many sensors and type of sensors as you want. It can send e-mails, place phone calls, send SMS, has a web interface, you can telnet into it etc. it's very easy to set up. It's also compatible with companies like Alarm Relay that monitor the Visonic for about $10/month.
- I have a couple of IP camera's with ZoneMinder. ZoneMinder is buggy and flaky if you want high definition feeds but once you've got your magic configuration where it stops crapping out you're golden. I also learned that b/w pictures are just as good as color and that many camera's will ignore most of the options sent to it.
- I have X10 modules which the Visonic activates that will turn on/off outside lights.
Custom electronics and digital signage for your business: www.evcircuits.com
Dlink wireless web cam's - $75-$100 each Argus free or paid software.
Does it cut off there or something? It doesn't for me.
Interesting, are there any particular or specific setups, model numbers etc that we look into?
http://www.newegg.com/Store/BrandSubCategory.aspx?Brand=1080&SubCategory=521&name=Surveillance-Cameras
First camera I click on... $280 and doesn't list the resolution anywhere.
Must be from their sucker collection.
Lol.
-AI
For me, it is far better to grasp the Universe as it really is than to persist in delusion
Get yourself a Synology NAS and some motion activated network attached video cameras. You can record what you want and the NAS is a great backup and file sharing device as well.
And for your vehicle, The Trunk Monkey
Vera by Micasa is a open source linux home automation box (about $200) pair that with a number of z-wave motion sensors and door / window sensors, and you've got home monitoring (including email/SMS notification) with no monthly fee. Also check out foscam, cheap remote wireless cameras. I have mine email me photos on motion in my backyard or by front door. All the bits and parts can get expensive (and out of control) I planned to get just a few parts and ended up automating most of the house before I was done (house from the 60's so none of the switches or outlets made any useful sense for a more modern usage). On the bright Side I can lock the doors and adjust the thermostat from my iPhone, and turn off all my lights from a switch in the bedroom.
I set this up on a pretty low budget. I used a linksys router, a linksys ip cam, my comcast outgoing mail server which you hhave if you have cable internet. The idea is simple, the camera can be configured to connect to your wireless router and will send you an email when it detects motion. The email contains a 5 second video clip of the motion. The camera can be configured with various options to allow small motions like a shift in lighting. You can also configure the camera to record motions during a particular time frame. For instance, mine is checking while i am at work. You can go the extra mile and setup noip or dynsomething dns so thatI you can view your camera feed from work on demand.
Who pays attention to separate ammo laws? Keep the ammo separate. You are a funny guy.
+++OK ATH
Get a camera+dvr kit from any super club store (Costco, Sam's Club) or online at any large tech selling company (Tigerdirect.com). Seriously, ~$500 will probably get you 8 cameras that can be set to motion activated recording. Your welcome.
I've already moderated so I'll have to post anonymously, but I have to say I'm pretty disappointed with the Score:5 responses I read. Nothing inexpensive, everything was either pre-built or over the top.
Home surveillance is, well, sort of a hobby of mine. Way back in 2007 I was sending home surveillance video at 5fps to my Motorola Q smartphone through a slow EDGE connection.
Cheap route: old PCs and webcams. Any high-end P4 or Pentium D PC is more than enough to record HQ video and stream it anywhere. I picked up a Dell Pentium D PC on ebay for $60 shipped, and bought a 17" LCD on craigslist for $30. Webcam is a Logitech c300. They're cheap, less than $20 shipped on ebay, I even bought a few at $10 shipped, and can record at up to 1280x1024, which is plenty for HD 720p video of 1280x720. Also has a built-in mic, which is useful if your surveillance software supports audio.
So for ~$100 you now have an entire PC with 17" LCD that records and streams video over the network or internet. Won't find that at Costco for $100. And you can buy these and place them all over the house. Power usage is higher than a wireless IP camera, but considering price is almost the same and the versatility of a PC & webcam combo, I'd go this route.
Lots of software available. After trying everything I've narrowed it down to and iSpy. Both have their pluses and minuses and both are free to try so I'd recommend trying them both to see which you like.
Orb is what I used to stream USB webcam video to my cellphone many years ago but there's probably many other options available now.
Safemart.com has tons of DIY kits, just pick one you like.
I bought the Simon a few years back, got some motion sensors, door sensors and put in a cellular link and they monitor thru alarm.com.
Even works with x10 sirens, never use x10 to monitor things though and never set external motion sensors to trigger the house alarm.
What makes you say that Blue Iris is free, is their website incorrect in stating that the LE version costs $30 and the full version costs $50? Or do you mean it is free for the 15 day trial period, which might be all the poster needs?
First, a home security system is relatively simple to install (but I just had one updated this week.) It would consist of perimeter sensors (magnetic sensors on windows and doors that report to the system when the contacts are spread by opening. There are motion detectors for the interior that can be placed so as not to be set off by your dog. The system can be built so as to alert you to any entry via text message or phone dialer.or both.
Second, you can purchase for less than $500 at Costco a worthy closed circuit TV system that will monitor your home based on movement. It will not set off alarms, but it will record movement in the house (or it can monitor full time (generally a waste of hard drive.) It can record for later playback so that you may be able to identify the burglars. It can also be available to you over the internet, so that if you are alerted to a breach you can view what is happening in your home, so long as the system has not been compromised. The cameras that come with these systems are not the best. You can upgrade them for better clarity or night time vision if you like, individual cameras upgrades are not very expensive. You can install this yourself.
Of course, you have to think of battery backups for the video system which could add a couple hundred to the project.
If you are alerted to an alarm, you can call the police in your area (not usually a 911 call unless you live in the same city you work in.) You can provide all sorts of information and perhaps help the police capture the burglars on site. There should be an internal alarm source like a bell or siren. That is to alert the burglars that there is an alarm, so they leave quickly. I agree about ADT, their cost is too high. Generally, a small company can tailor fit an alarm system and a video system, but they will want you to subscribe to a monthly service. You don't need that if you have the system alert you and you have a video system. If the video system is down when an alert comes, that is sufficient reason to call the police. Most cities charge for false alarms after the first few.
Also, if you replace your safe, affix it so that it is not portable.
Remember, nothing is perfect and that you will have to tweak your system for nearly a month in order to overcome false alarms and other malfunctions. You may want to coordinate with your neighbors.
Good luck.
J
Connect your door handles with a timer to the nearest power outlet.
If you want an extra sensor for something, they are happy to give it to you - but they will want to know why, and if they don't think it's needed, they'll try to talk you out of it. I had the feeling they actually cared about my interests, and not selling me more equipment.
That's because the more sensors you have, the more likely you are to have false alarms, need warranty service, etc.
They also have additional styles of sensors that the average joe doesn't care about (ones that you install in the door, rather than putting on the outside of the door - i.e. invisible)
You're joking, right? Doorjam sensors have been in popular use for decades. They're not popular among DIY'ers because you have to drill the door and doorjam (and get the alignment of both right), and it's not trivial to get the wiring there (ie a trained installer or electrician is needed.)
Please help metamoderate.
your dog tolerates strangers around your house when you're not home? are you sure somebody didn't sell you a cat?
Dogs are no good for security. They are very easily taken care of. Plus who ever pays attention when a dog barks and barks and barks. That gun..... you better be ready to use it, or it will be taken away from you and BANG..... you are dead!
Maybe replace the painball gun with something having a bit more "punch"
http://hackedgadgets.com/2008/06/27/paintball-sentry-gun/
Make sure the cameras are visible, and leave a route uncovered. That way, they will try and avoid them - and walk right in sight of the hidden pinhole cameras that do the real recording.
On NO account use wireless systems, as they can be easily jammed. Spend some time running cable, and make sure it can all continue to run on battery power - just in case you get clever people.
Oh, and kick a fuss at the local police station. You're paying tax for them - time you see some effort coming back.
Good luck.
Oh? It's changed then. It was free a year or so ago. Axis Camera Station is free for use with a single Axis camera. Additional cameras have a cost, but I don't remember how much per channel.
"Think about how stupid the average person is. Now, realise that half of them are dumber than that." - George Carlin
Checkout Cameras with wireless transmission, and with ability to have standby battery in the event of power failure. These devices are in the low 100 dollar range.
Leslie Satenstein Montreal Quebec Canada
I'm considering putting two outside cameras with PIR lighting and triggers, two cameras discretely inside and also use an out of use PC, with a mobile attached so I get the call. My neighbours had an alarm fitted went off to the States and it rang all over Xmas, did it help? I've had alarms for 40 years on residental and commercial properties and unless you have really high value and the police force that responds, it's a waste of time! Cheers BC from Blighty
You make a good point. Probably not a true story, but one I was told as true as a child:
A family friend has an assortment of expensive and junk rod and reels hanging on the wall is his carport (an open garage facing the street typical in many subdivisions). Normally his house is completely dark, and in an area where everyone has a gun or two, quite foreboding. One night he forgets and leaves his carport light on. In the morning he finds his best rod and reel stolen with a note: "Thanks for leaving the light on, I was able to pick out one I really wanted."
Or be truly green - you CAN compost human remains. After a few months, nothing's left.
Snake pits, punji stakes, tar traps....no need to go high tech after millennia of innovative approaches.
Visit www.homesecuritystore.com. I just purchased a Visonic powermax pro gsm kit.
http://www.homesecuritystore.com/p-1822-ppro211gsm-visonic-power-max-pro-kit-with-built-in-gsm.aspx.
It will take you some manual reading to set it up on your own. It has a built in cell phone transmitter which can send text/call whenever an alarm is triggered. The catch is you set it up yourself. It would take a solid day to set up the basics if you had all day. I am using a prepaid sim for the unit which has to be renewed every 90 days b/c the minutes expire. 25$ worth of minutes last 90 days, so you're looking at ~8$ a month for a DIY system. If you're already on a gsm network adding a line may be cheaper.
TLDR. DIY home security. www.homesecuritystore.com. Low monthly cost, high up front cost. Don't be afraid of picking up instruction manuals.
Get a cheap off contract Droid phone, put it in airplane mode, and download the app Motion Detector. Then set it up to send the pics to your email, and boom. You're done.
That sounds great, but what happens if your intruder finds one of your stashed guns? I think that was the reason for the law, but it totally deters from a good old-fashioned shoot-out!
Truth be told, I know many people who keep a gun handy around here with a fully loaded clip. For me, it is more to ensure the safety of my family so my step-daugher doesn't show up with some asshole one day and show him my guns and then he decides to fire off a few rounds. Of course I'm the only one with the gun key, but kids tends to find ways around such things as safe combinations... It only takes one day where you use the safe and forget to lock it.
I like Oklahoma where you are allowed to shoot even the mail carrier for coming on your property.
All hail the Trunk Monkey!
I was looking at projects that I could get my brother (big into physics, not so much programming) involved with, and http://sheepdogguides.com/arduino/ahttoc.htm has a "home alarm" system project guide. I found the alarm guide the first time I read through his page, but somehow have lost the link to it specifically - I leave it to someone who's not at work and has more time to dig out the gold nuggets here, but I promise that it's there. It's cheap but not fast, so it's not a solution, but it's interesting nonetheless.
I have the hiccups.