Networked lecture rooms were part of Acadia University since I began attendance in 1997, and this was common practise when the professor/presenter in question allowed laptop use - most did.
Of course, the subject of conversation wasn't always the topic of the presentation, but this has been around for a while, at any rate.
Most DVI enabled cards can display on most DVI enabled TVs. I know of hundreds of people @ avsforum.com that are doing this in HiDef resolutions with very good results.
Yes, it's true that the DVI connections on the back of most new TVs are DVI/HDCP (the CP stands for Copy Protection:P) but that doesn't mean that all content coming in has to be HDCP encoded, it just means that the TV has to support the protocol.
And if you have a physical connector mismatch, there are adapters available.
I have the Yopy 3000 and it DOES have a USB host controller built-in (it's available through some of the pins on the back under a slip-cover). Mind you I haven't found any good way to use it yet, but it's there and well documented.
The thing is, according to a link above, that RFID tags big enough to transmit over any distance greater than a few inches will have to be pretty big, and could likely be easily removed and discarded.
And if you're concerned about the rest of them, it was mentionned that an EMP should disable them... someone will no doubt be marketing such a purpose specific device as soon as these tags are widespread in consumer goods. Zap your new jeans and be done with it.
As I understand it, using serial there is no having to worry about whether all the bits arrive at the same time (as there obviously is with parallel), and so the speed of transmission can be dramatically increased past the point at which it becomes faster than the "equivalent" parallel technology... bits arrive in the order they were sent - guaranteed.
Re:Um, did I miss the point...
on
YOPY Arrives
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· Score: 1
At least on my version of the Linupy OS, the PDA hosts it's own webserver which you connect to using the usb-net module (part of the standard linux kernel)
you get a usb0 ethernet device, assign both devices an IP on the same subnet and you're in business.
Connect to the Yopy IP and your interface to upload/download files, add/delete contacts and schedule items is right there in your favorite browser.
No good way to sync addresses/scheduled items with a local software yet, but I'm sure it'll get worked out.
This is new??
on
YOPY Arrives
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· Score: 3, Informative
I dunno about all you, but I've had a YOPY 3000 for about a year now. It's in my pocket as we speak.
The 3500 and 3700 models were announced before Christmas too...
The sites have been available since I've gotten it, and they're released new versions of Linupy twice since I've had it.
Check out www.yopydeveloper.org. Many useful opensource downloads for the Yopy. Several of which I contributed (porting ogg123, for example:). Also lots of tips, tricks, and help.
Keep your shotgun handy though, as they are more than likely going to open up a portal into another dimension and all sorts of nasties are going to come pouring out.
Is this the precursor to the next latest-greatest ID FPS hit?
Well... the only good way to break a ground loop is using an isolation transformer. Radio shack sells one for less than $20. You just plug the audio from the computer in one end and then from the isolator to the stereo on the other side.
To test whether you do indeed have a ground loop, get a cheap 3-2 prong cheater plug (you plug a 3-prong cord into it, and only 2 prongs come out the other side) thereby eliminating the ground on your computer (best to put it on the powerbar, since your connected monitor and printer, etc... will also make the connection). If when it's plugged in through the cheater the hum goes away then it's a ground loop and the isolator should fix it. Do not leave the cheater plug in as the solution since having ungrounded equipment that was designed to be grounded is really unwise.
My loop was caused by having my computer (in another room - same floor) connected to my receiver through the cable tv (split between my digital cable box, and my tv-card). Putting a VERY simple isolator (made from two opposite 75-300Ohm adapters connected together) was all it took to break the ground between them. It removed the hum from my sound, hoirzontal bars from my picture and lowered the overall noise floor of my system.
It's possible to get ground loops even from outlets on the same circuit if the ground between them is poor. The only effective way of connecting multiple grounded audio devices together without isolators is to plug them into the same power strip or, of course, to use properly balanced equipment - which most consumer electronics are not.
One thing I can't stress enough is to be wary of ground loops when connecting any number of audio/video components together. If there's more than one path to ground throughout your entire connection of equipment it's extremely likely you will hear a 60Hz (50Hz in europe) hum in the background of all your music. I just managed to track down and stop mine the other day.
Connecting a computer and a home stereo receiver is probably the most common cause of this effect.
Fortunately, you can get ground loop isolators pretty cheap for line-level, and cable tv applications... of course, if you choose wireless this is a moot point.
If I'm not mistaken, fingernail polish remover is/contains acetone. Probably most of us have, or live with someone who has, some of that around. If not, it's pretty easy to come by in the drug store.
I've been uploading Oggs from Linux onto my Yopy and playing them since last summer. Mind you, I had to hack the (at that time) rudimentary fixed precision decoder library into ogg123 and modify the included gqmpeg a bit to play nice with it, but it works fine and sounds much better. Just gotta get me a bigger MMC card sometime:)
It's always annoyed me when I go into computer shops and see PC speakers labelled with a large font on the box that says "500W!!" or some other outrageous amount of power. And I've seen this on $20 speaker sets.
Like you, I'm not saying the speakers are bad (but in the $20 case, I might) just that the marketing team thinks they can lure more customers by putting large power ratings on the box. They're probably right - the uneducated buyer will probably take the "750W!!" speakers over the "600W!!" speakers. To me though, all this bragging turns me away.
I bought a nice functional set of Labtec speakers for my PC, but my real audio equipment is with my entertainment centre.
This may be OT for this discussion, and it may be completely anti-EULA altogether, but is anyone else here aware that mplayer has had Real support for some time now in the 0.90 series? It works pretty good for me and you can even use the included mencoder program to convert realvideo into any number of less annoying formats.
100% behind you on this. Would mod you up if I could.
I have 3 model m's at home and 1 at work. They are hands down the best keyboards I have ever had the pleasure of typing on.
Anything else feels cheap and toy-ish by comparison. Considering that most of the model-m's in circulation were made in the 1980s, they seem to stand the durability test too.
A while back we had a couple of MCSE's on our site for "job training". One of the tasks we set before them was getting a copy of MS Proxy Server running on an NT machine. Apparently they had no luck getting the "i386" install to work (the machine in question was indeed of the i386 variety), so they tried the install in the "Alpha" directory.
Of course, they got the "unsupported architecture" (or "incompatable binary" or whatever) error and called me in from the next office to see this bizarre message. I had to explain to them that the files in that directory were for the Alpha CPU and they needed to use the ones in i386.
Neither of these MCSEs had even heard of the Alpha. It truly saddened me. I think it was then that I lost what little good impressions of the MCSE certification track that I had left (which was few, trust me).
Related? How? I assure you there are no electrolytic capacitors on any hard drive that this article is relevant to. Electrolytic capacitors are the ones that look like little (often blue) cans, you'll probably find them around the CPU socket on your motherboard.
The capacitors on hard drives are some of the little surface mount square blocks that are about the size of a large grain of sand, and are not electrolytic.
The only 'relation' these two issues have is the recently prevalant trend of producing less reliable hardware.
Slashdot Mirror
It'll burn up in our atmosphere and whatever's left will be no bigger than a Chihuaha's head.
... and is looking for a way to imput control charactors in the interface.
I think we need better ways to input the correct characters on our current interfaces first.
Networked lecture rooms were part of Acadia University since I began attendance in 1997, and this was common practise when the professor/presenter in question allowed laptop use - most did.
Of course, the subject of conversation wasn't always the topic of the presentation, but this has been around for a while, at any rate.
Most DVI enabled cards can display on most DVI enabled TVs. I know of hundreds of people @ avsforum.com that are doing this in HiDef resolutions with very good results.
:P) but that doesn't mean that all content coming in has to be HDCP encoded, it just means that the TV has to support the protocol.
Yes, it's true that the DVI connections on the back of most new TVs are DVI/HDCP (the CP stands for Copy Protection
And if you have a physical connector mismatch, there are adapters available.
I have the Yopy 3000 and it DOES have a USB host controller built-in (it's available through some of the pins on the back under a slip-cover). Mind you I haven't found any good way to use it yet, but it's there and well documented.
Someone once unloaded a metric assload of old XTs on me each with a Model M. I got a couple of the mini-m's too... these one's have the keycaps :)
I'm down to my last one now (damn me for being so generous)
The thing is, according to a link above, that RFID tags big enough to transmit over any distance greater than a few inches will have to be pretty big, and could likely be easily removed and discarded.
And if you're concerned about the rest of them, it was mentionned that an EMP should disable them... someone will no doubt be marketing such a purpose specific device as soon as these tags are widespread in consumer goods. Zap your new jeans and be done with it.
Who else here read the title at first and thought that?
:)
Perhaps it's Mr. Gates at it again
I'm thinking he meant "scuplting", but I could be wrong.
Maybe he's rekindled the long lost art of wood slupting!
As I understand it, using serial there is no having to worry about whether all the bits arrive at the same time (as there obviously is with parallel), and so the speed of transmission can be dramatically increased past the point at which it becomes faster than the "equivalent" parallel technology... bits arrive in the order they were sent - guaranteed.
At least on my version of the Linupy OS, the PDA hosts it's own webserver which you connect to using the usb-net module (part of the standard linux kernel)
you get a usb0 ethernet device, assign both devices an IP on the same subnet and you're in business.
Connect to the Yopy IP and your interface to upload/download files, add/delete contacts and schedule items is right there in your favorite browser.
No good way to sync addresses/scheduled items with a local software yet, but I'm sure it'll get worked out.
I dunno about all you, but I've had a YOPY 3000 for about a year now. It's in my pocket as we speak.
:). Also lots of tips, tricks, and help.
The 3500 and 3700 models were announced before Christmas too...
The sites have been available since I've gotten it, and they're released new versions of Linupy twice since I've had it.
Check out www.yopydeveloper.org. Many useful opensource downloads for the Yopy. Several of which I contributed (porting ogg123, for example
It's a pretty decent platform.
Keep your shotgun handy though, as they are more than likely going to open up a portal into another dimension and all sorts of nasties are going to come pouring out.
Is this the precursor to the next latest-greatest ID FPS hit?
Well... the only good way to break a ground loop is using an isolation transformer. Radio shack sells one for less than $20. You just plug the audio from the computer in one end and then from the isolator to the stereo on the other side.
To test whether you do indeed have a ground loop, get a cheap 3-2 prong cheater plug (you plug a 3-prong cord into it, and only 2 prongs come out the other side) thereby eliminating the ground on your computer (best to put it on the powerbar, since your connected monitor and printer, etc... will also make the connection). If when it's plugged in through the cheater the hum goes away then it's a ground loop and the isolator should fix it. Do not leave the cheater plug in as the solution since having ungrounded equipment that was designed to be grounded is really unwise.
Here's the Radio Shack part link.
My loop was caused by having my computer (in another room - same floor) connected to my receiver through the cable tv (split between my digital cable box, and my tv-card). Putting a VERY simple isolator (made from two opposite 75-300Ohm adapters connected together) was all it took to break the ground between them. It removed the hum from my sound, hoirzontal bars from my picture and lowered the overall noise floor of my system.
It's possible to get ground loops even from outlets on the same circuit if the ground between them is poor. The only effective way of connecting multiple grounded audio devices together without isolators is to plug them into the same power strip or, of course, to use properly balanced equipment - which most consumer electronics are not.
One thing I can't stress enough is to be wary of ground loops when connecting any number of audio/video components together. If there's more than one path to ground throughout your entire connection of equipment it's extremely likely you will hear a 60Hz (50Hz in europe) hum in the background of all your music. I just managed to track down and stop mine the other day.
Connecting a computer and a home stereo receiver is probably the most common cause of this effect.
Fortunately, you can get ground loop isolators pretty cheap for line-level, and cable tv applications... of course, if you choose wireless this is a moot point.
If I'm not mistaken, fingernail polish remover is/contains acetone. Probably most of us have, or live with someone who has, some of that around. If not, it's pretty easy to come by in the drug store.
I've been uploading Oggs from Linux onto my Yopy and playing them since last summer. Mind you, I had to hack the (at that time) rudimentary fixed precision decoder library into ogg123 and modify the included gqmpeg a bit to play nice with it, but it works fine and sounds much better. Just gotta get me a bigger MMC card sometime :)
I'm glad someone finally said this.
It's always annoyed me when I go into computer shops and see PC speakers labelled with a large font on the box that says "500W!!" or some other outrageous amount of power. And I've seen this on $20 speaker sets.
Like you, I'm not saying the speakers are bad (but in the $20 case, I might) just that the marketing team thinks they can lure more customers by putting large power ratings on the box. They're probably right - the uneducated buyer will probably take the "750W!!" speakers over the "600W!!" speakers. To me though, all this bragging turns me away.
I bought a nice functional set of Labtec speakers for my PC, but my real audio equipment is with my entertainment centre.
This may be OT for this discussion, and it may be completely anti-EULA altogether, but is anyone else here aware that mplayer has had Real support for some time now in the 0.90 series? It works pretty good for me and you can even use the included mencoder program to convert realvideo into any number of less annoying formats.
I'm pretty sure the "In Russia..." jokes originated with 80's Russian comic Yakkov Smirnoff (sp?).
With regards to what spurred the recent resurgence of them, I have no idea.
100% behind you on this. Would mod you up if I could.
I have 3 model m's at home and 1 at work. They are hands down the best keyboards I have ever had the pleasure of typing on.
Anything else feels cheap and toy-ish by comparison. Considering that most of the model-m's in circulation were made in the 1980s, they seem to stand the durability test too.
A while back we had a couple of MCSE's on our site for "job training". One of the tasks we set before them was getting a copy of MS Proxy Server running on an NT machine. Apparently they had no luck getting the "i386" install to work (the machine in question was indeed of the i386 variety), so they tried the install in the "Alpha" directory.
Of course, they got the "unsupported architecture" (or "incompatable binary" or whatever) error and called me in from the next office to see this bizarre message. I had to explain to them that the files in that directory were for the Alpha CPU and they needed to use the ones in i386.
Neither of these MCSEs had even heard of the Alpha. It truly saddened me. I think it was then that I lost what little good impressions of the MCSE certification track that I had left (which was few, trust me).
You wanna tell us where you saw that?
2.4.20 only went to rc4 before release.
Related? How? I assure you there are no electrolytic capacitors on any hard drive that this article is relevant to. Electrolytic capacitors are the ones that look like little (often blue) cans, you'll probably find them around the CPU socket on your motherboard.
The capacitors on hard drives are some of the little surface mount square blocks that are about the size of a large grain of sand, and are not electrolytic.
The only 'relation' these two issues have is the recently prevalant trend of producing less reliable hardware.