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Build a Quiet Gaming System

ThinSkin writes "Armed with a newly discovered soundproofing foam, Loyd Case from ExtremeTech set out to build a quiet gaming rig that hits the sweet spot in both performance and silence. After choosing the right components and insulating the PC case, Loyd's silent PC weighed in at a shade under $2500, scored 5206 3DMarks, and is hardly audible from more than a meter away."

146 of 204 comments (clear)

  1. what?? by rovingeyes · · Score: 5, Funny
    is hardly audible from more than a meter away

    I dunno about you, but I really like to be within reach of my computer when I am playing...

    1. Re:what?? by LiquidCoooled · · Score: 3, Funny

      Haven't you heard about a marvelous invention called WIRE.
      It allows your input and output devices to be situated away from the noisey box.. :P

      --
      liqbase :: faster than paper
    2. Re:what?? by kesuki · · Score: 2, Interesting

      wire may have latency advantages, but they also have this nifty 'wireless' technology available... so one can take one's keyboard and mouse a few meteres farther than cable can be extended.

      That being said, the 'insulating foam' seems like it has less to do with the silence than with the ultra silent, ultra efficient heatsink like the zalman one they used (they also mave an aftermarket VGA cooler model, that's just as silent)

      yeah the CPU and VGA cooler each putting out around 20 dbs of noise ;) and then claiming it's some 'special foam' that's making it virtually silent? 20 Dbs isn't that silent either, i usually run my TV set at 20 DBs. although i suppose this is where the 'special foam' comes into play.

      In any case, this system is hardly a 'silent' PC, when one can get a pretty simple to install WC kit, that with a 'fully submersible pump' will emit about 2 dbs of noise.

      hrm. ~20 dbs or 2 dbs not to mention that one can build a full mineral oil bath rig that uses the same zalman cooler sans fan, for a 0 dbs 'full immersion liquid cooled' rig.

      'silent' gaming rig? i've heard quieter ones. sure they all weighed a LOT more than this one. but if ones wants a TRULY silent gaming rig that's the obvious performance trade off.

    3. Re:what?? by LiquidCoooled · · Score: 1

      I wasn't aware of a wireless monitor adapter?
      I realise you can distance yourself for the KM, but the V has always been an issue (10metres is the longest I've dealt with)

      --
      liqbase :: faster than paper
    4. Re:what?? by Fulcrum+of+Evil · · Score: 1

      yeah the CPU and VGA cooler each putting out around 20 dbs of noise ;) and then claiming it's some 'special foam' that's making it virtually silent? 20 Dbs isn't that silent either, i usually run my TV set at 20 DBs.

      20 + 20 = 22 or so. The special foam absorbs some of this noise, which reduces the noise, possibly to 12db.

      hrm. ~20 dbs or 2 dbs not to mention that one can build a full mineral oil bath rig that uses the same zalman cooler sans fan, for a 0 dbs 'full immersion liquid cooled' rig.

      How many people are willing to hassle with a fully submersible oil-cooled PC?

      --
      "We returned the General to El Salvador, or maybe Guatemala, it's difficult to tell from 10,000 feet"
    5. Re:what?? by 91degrees · · Score: 1

      I wasn't aware of a wireless monitor adapter?

      Well, you could use a composite monitor and a wireless TV sender... Would that count?

    6. Re:what?? by kesuki · · Score: 1

      Well, you're missing the most obvious 'wireless'* video method, Front Projection technology. I hear that some of the nice ones from TI are getting pretty high resolution nowadays, if you've got the $$$$$.

      *= in the sense that between the projector and the 'screen' there are no wires.

    7. Re:what?? by kesuki · · Score: 1

      How many people are willing to hassle with a fully submersible oil-cooled PC?

      If you have the money, you can just pay for someone else to do the hassle for you. including maintaining/replacing mineral oil as needed. I'm sure there are plenty of people trying to 'sell' the idea of a perfectly silent computer system to the people rich enough to pay twice the price for a PC that makes no noise. If not it's a protentially lucrative market just waiting for someone to convice the rich that they need to distinquish themsleves from the poor who suffer with incredibly noisy PCs.

  2. Feh by Mad+Ogre · · Score: 3, Funny

    I can do the same thing to any PC in just a few seconds with a can of "GREAT STUFF" foam.

    --
    MadOgre.com
    1. Re:Feh by Ravatar · · Score: 1

      *sniff sniff*

      What's that smell?

  3. Maybe - maybe not... by babbling · · Score: 1

    Putting a gaming machine in a closed cupboard might not be such a good idea. It could eventually end up overheating.

    1. Re:Maybe - maybe not... by Basehart · · Score: 3, Funny

      Put it in a fridge.

    2. Re:Maybe - maybe not... by LiquidCoooled · · Score: 1

      Slowing the fans down and coating the box in foam could also make the box more susceptable to heat than sitting it in a cupboard running at full cooling efficiency.

      I dread Summer time here in England (yes, the 3 days we get sometime in August) because those hot days are the ones when the flakey computers invariably decide to die.

      --
      liqbase :: faster than paper
    3. Re:Maybe - maybe not... by Bull999999 · · Score: 1

      What about beer? Warm beer sucks...

      --
      1f u c4n r34d th1s u r34lly n33d t0 g37 l41d
    4. Re:Maybe - maybe not... by Voltageaav · · Score: 1

      I did that when my 360 kept overheating. Works quite well :)

      --
      Someone save me from this sanity.
    5. Re:Maybe - maybe not... by bzipitidoo · · Score: 1
      I tried a lot of things to quiet down my computer. Extra large case, special low noise Panaflo fans, replacement fan grills (chrome of course) that allow more airflow, foam lined enclosure for the hard drive, quiet power supply. Got expensive, except for the video card where I got the most powerful one I could that didn't have a fan. The 2 most effective measures were slowing the case fans down by running them at 7 volts instead of 12 (by making the +5V be the ground-- 5 volts is too low), and attaching a scrap of plain old carpet (reasonably thick, not that thin stuff they like to produce in little squares and use in businesses) to the inside of the case. No need for fancy and expensive sound deadening foam.

      Carpet on the outside of the case had about zero effect. Has to be inside, and doesn't have to be all over. Since carpet worked so well, I tried adding more carpet. Additional carpet didn't help.

      --
      Intellectual Property is a monopolistic, selfish, and defective concept. It is "tyranny over the mind of man"
    6. Re:Maybe - maybe not... by PakProtector · · Score: 1
      What about beer? Warm beer sucks...

      If you can't drink your beer warm, you shouldn't be drinking it in the first place.

      --

      Edward@Tomato - /home/Edward/ man woman
      man: no entry for woman in the manual.
      "Qua!?"

  4. Eh... by GmAz · · Score: 5, Informative

    One must not forget that all that foam will increase temperatures in the case as well as make it a pain to get back in the machine to replace\troubleshoot hardware issues. He should have gone with http://www.dynamat.com/ . Its much much thinner and won't retain the heat.

    --
    Click Click Bloody Click PANCAKES!
  5. Great! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    Now I can hear the explosions, gunshots and various other sound effects in peace!

    1. Re:Great! by Mad+Ogre · · Score: 5, Funny

      Or you can surf your porn and hear anyone coming near your office.

      --
      MadOgre.com
    2. Re:Great! by Ryz0r · · Score: 1

      Or you can surf your porn and hear anyone coming near your office.

      The moans usually give it away first...


      Yes, because all my colleagues moan when they get near my office..

      --
      Peace, Love, Unity, Respect
    3. Re:Great! by PaganRitual · · Score: 5, Funny

      Yeah, but now they can all hear you coming from their office.

    4. Re:Great! by ThinSkin · · Score: 1
      I dunno what's funnier, you're comment or your comment rating ("insightful").

      Bwahahahaha.

    5. Re:Great! by PaganRitual · · Score: 1

      It's probably because people were seriously considering the parent post until I pointed out the downside :)

  6. Why? by babbling · · Score: 1

    Just get a long monitor cable, and a wireless keyboard and mouse. Then you can put your noisy little hot-air maker anywhere you want, as long as the monitor cable can reach.

  7. Or.... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    ...you could just use one huge heatsink: http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=6 4&code=020

    1. Re:Or.... by Jeff+DeMaagd · · Score: 1

      That's probably awfully expensive, I didn't find a price, last I read it was about $1500 for the case.

    2. Re:Or.... by LurkerXXX · · Score: 1

      Froogle found two places selling them for $945.

      http://www.bestbyteinc.com/CAS-ZAL-T5AI.html

      It's still crazy money for a case, but it's down a lot from the $1500 it used to sit at.

  8. you're kidding, right? by Ritz_Just_Ritz · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Unless you're working on a laptop, how many people work such that their EAR is within 1M of their PC?

    1. Re:you're kidding, right? by YU+Nicks+NE+Way · · Score: 2, Informative

      I just measured the distance between my ears and my main dev machine. It's less than a metre away.

    2. Re:you're kidding, right? by crabpeople · · Score: 2, Informative

      you have a metre long monitor kb and mouse cables?

      ( i know they exsist but how many people purchase extenders? )

      grandparent is exactly what I thought. except for the fringe people that hide the PC in a closet 3 rooms over from where they actually are working, most computers are either on or under a desk. definately alot less than a metre away.

      --
      I'll just use my special getting high powers one more time...
    3. Re:you're kidding, right? by nxtw · · Score: 1

      you have a metre long monitor kb and mouse cables?

      I'm using a Bluetooth mouse and keyboard right now, which both have stated ranges of 10M. My old wired keyboard's cord is at least 6 ft (~2m), and my mouse's cord wasx longer. With USB, I could easily use a hub.
    4. Re:you're kidding, right? by Trejkaz · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Typical mouse and keyboard cords are about 1.8m in length.

      --
      Karma: It's all a bunch of tree-huggin' hippy crap!
    5. Re:you're kidding, right? by Random+Destruction · · Score: 1

      Measure yours man.. Im thinking you dont know how long a metre is.

      --
      :x
    6. Re:you're kidding, right? by cryptoz · · Score: 1

      Well, at The Source by Circut City where I work, about ten to fifteen people a day purchase keyboard or mouse extenders, or a PS/2 / USB converter which often ends up extending the cable anyway. They're usually about 2m long.

  9. Quiet or silent? by MaineCoon · · Score: 4, Informative

    I have built a fairly silent PC that, during normal operation, is barely audible. During gaming, it is not noticable with even moderate sound from the speakers at a medium volume, scores 7800 in 3DMark05, and cost $1800 (7 months ago). Today you could build it even cheaper:

    Antec P180 Case (a sound-dampening, full size steel case built for heat management and airflow, using multiple tri-speed 120mm fans)
    Antec TruPower 2 550 W power supply (in the P180 case, it goes down below, in a separate air flow chamber, so it stays pretty cool)
    Athlon64 3700+. Best gaming price/performance at the time I built the system.
    Stock heatsink/fan. This is where my noise comes from, and I was satisified; 32C/3000rpm idle, 44C/5500rpm at max load after 12 hours in an unvented, uncomfortably warm room.
    Audigy 2 ZS. Cuz I like EAX, k?
    eVGA GeForce 7800 GTX (nowadays, the 7900 GT is same performance but for $200 less than what I paid, and lower power/heat, and the 7900 GTX is more power for about $100 less and same power/heat)
    2 matched Corsair TWINX 1-gig sticks
    160 gig SATA-II Western Digital HD
    Sony DVD-ROM (they make fairly quiet drives)
    ASUS A8N-SLI Premium motherboard. Uses a heatpipe to move the chipset heat into the airflow coming off the CPU. Works fine. No noisy motherboard chipset fans.

    It isn't silent, but its quiet enough. If it's not running a game, I can only tell it's on if I concentrate and listen for it. If the window is open (I'm not on a busy street), the ambient outside noise drowns it out entirely.

    --
    Hunt your preferred prey at Aliens vs Predator MUD. Join the war at avpmud.com port 4000
    1. Re:Quiet or silent? by Jeffrey+Baker · · Score: 4, Informative

      The article doesn't seem to mention some other important ways to make your PC sound quieter. One is to simply move it away from the wall. Most PCs have a rear-blowing fan that fires right into a wall, and the sound reflection is quite strong. Moving the PC away from the wall reduces the power of the reflected sound. You can also mount foam on any hard surface behind or beneath the PC if moving it is impractical.

      Changing the way your PC is mounted to the floor can also make a big difference. All computer fans vibrate to some degree, and the feet on the PC case transfer this vibration to the floor or cabinet with a sometimes surprising transfer function. Getting softer or harder feet, or even bolting it down to a large heavy object, can quiet this down.

      Finally hard disks can be mounted on soft rubber grommets which makes a huge difference in how much sound is transferred from the drive to the case. This can eliminate the subtle but annoying noise generated by disk eccentricity and muffle the sound of the voice coil actuator.

    2. Re:Quiet or silent? by Pope · · Score: 1

      I have a Dual G5 that is on the floor, on top of a spare towel. I had to put my desk in my bedroom as it was the only place it would fit, so I figured anything to help on the noise/vibration dampning is better than just sticking directly onto a hardwood floor. Seems to work OK.

      --
      It doesn't mean much now, it's built for the future.
    3. Re:Quiet or silent? by Bios_Hakr · · Score: 5, Informative

      You'll pay a premium for "rubber grommets for component mounting". Instead, grab a bicycle intertube from WalMart for a few bucks. Use 9-11 certified utility knife to cit it into strips. Put a strip between the drives and the mounting bracket.

      Sometimes, the brackets are kinda tight. You can get over that by prying it open a bit. It'll come back together when you screw it down.

      Use all the screws you can. I see people just using one or two per side. Most CD-ROMs can take 4 screws per side; use all of them!

      Don't screw it down too tight. I've never seen a spec for how tight to torque a hard drive screw. Too tight and your dampener will be for naught. If you are concerned about the drive coming loose, grab some LokTite. If you are clever, a drop of rubber cement will server the same purpose as LokTite and costs a lot less.

      Get big fans and run them at lower RPMs. I know a lot of people are concerned over heat. Truth is, computers can run really fucking hot with no problems. 50c is a good number to be happy with. Even 60c isn't a big problem. Just make sure the hard drives are getting cool, fresh air.

      Make sure to select a good power supply with a 120mm fan. There is little you can do to quite a bad power supply.

      As for the other fans, get some baffles or thin foam. On the back of the PC, tape in some ducting to allow the fan to breathe without having a direct shot to the open air. A fan in the middle of a tube will be quieter than a fan at either end of the tube. Between the fan and the exit, stuff in some crumpled dryer sheets. These allow air flow but really deaden the noise. You can also use several stacked dryer sheets over the intake fans as well.

      Finally, take the fucking thing off the desk. There is no reason to have the PC on your desk. Put it under the desk or behind it. You know that box that the thing came in, use that to make a "computer cozy". Cut a few holes for air and cover them with dryer sheets. Cut another hole for the CD-ROM and cover that with a dryer sheet hinge. There will usually be a 1~2" gap between the box and the case. No dust or dirt will get in. It'll be dead quiet from inches away.

      --
      I'd rather you do it wrong, than for me to have to do it at all.
    4. Re:Quiet or silent? by geekoid · · Score: 2, Interesting

      " If you are clever, a drop of rubber cement will server the same purpose as LokTite and costs a lot less."
      Nail polish is better. Easier to break, and not gummy.

      The reason CD-Roms come with 4 per side is to support different brackets and/or different screw sizes.
      Over tirgtening the scews can cause th cd rom drive frame to warp.
      Same thuing with hard drives.
      In both cases the spinning of the platters apply torque to the device.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    5. Re:Quiet or silent? by fishbowl · · Score: 1


      "Get big fans and run them at lower RPMs. I know a lot of people are concerned over heat. Truth is, computers can run really fucking hot with no problems. 50c is a good number to be happy with. Even 60c isn't a big problem. Just make sure the hard drives are getting cool, fresh air."

      I would consider those temperatures to be *the goal* for cooling. My P4 hits 74c with the fan turned all the way up, 20c ambient. Zalman fansink, good thermal paste, Antec case.

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    6. Re:Quiet or silent? by Hannah+E.+Davis · · Score: 1

      My computer at work has an Antec case with sound dampening (offhand I don't know if it's the model that you mentioned, but it may well be), and although it's not completely silent, it's pretty close. I generally don't notice it making noise unless it's particularly busy with something, and even then, it's not nearly enough to bother me.

    7. Re:Quiet or silent? by MaineCoon · · Score: 1

      The Antec P180 case (which is mostly tool-less) has 2 hard drive cages, the bottom cage mounts the drives on their side so that air is pulled in from the front (through a filter), past up to 4 drives mounted on edge, through a 120mm tri-speed fan, then pushed to the power supply. The drives are mounted into the cage via screws which are fully insulated from the metal of the cage via a half-inch-long soft rubber grommet.

      --
      Hunt your preferred prey at Aliens vs Predator MUD. Join the war at avpmud.com port 4000
    8. Re:Quiet or silent? by Arathrael · · Score: 2, Funny
      Finally, take the fucking thing off the desk. There is no reason to have the PC on your desk.
      If I put my PC on the floor, my rats eat the cables.
    9. Re:Quiet or silent? by Bios_Hakr · · Score: 1

      Put it on the floor and put a cardboard box over it. Make a hole in the top and route the cables out of that. Dissolve some rat poision in water and then use that to treat the box.

      --
      I'd rather you do it wrong, than for me to have to do it at all.
    10. Re:Quiet or silent? by Arathrael · · Score: 1

      Erm... they're pet rats. I'd really rather not poison them. :-)

      That aside, they could easily get onto the top of a box, they can jump a couple of feet no problem. I also doubt poison-soaked cardboard would actually stop them. Rats aren't always that easy to poison, and they don't generally eat cardboard, they just shred it.

      Plus, I imagine similar issues would arise with puppies, ferrets, rabbits, etc. too. That, and not everyone wants a cardboard box as part of their decor.

      And all that aside, there are other good reasons for having PCs on the desk - easier access for the disabled, for example.

    11. Re:Quiet or silent? by Jeff+DeMaagd · · Score: 1

      Rubber grommets are expensive? I haven't looked, but I can't help thinking that there must be a pretty cheap source for them.

      I have not seen, nor can I find a "9-11 certified" utility knife, must be some new nonsense marketing buzzword. I think that a pair of circle punch cutters (to cut inner and outer diameter) from a decent leather store should do a better job.

      I am curious about the "crumpled dryer sheets" into exit tubes, it would seem that they would block air flow more than sound. There are better techniques, one that I have seen is to use a couple 90 degree bends into a side offset, and line the ducts with a foam or felt material.

    12. Re:Quiet or silent? by Bios_Hakr · · Score: 1

      Keep the computer under a box and behind the desk. No one will ever see it. No one will hear it.

      A friend of mine did one better. He had a bedroom closet on the other side of the wall from his office. He cut a small hole in the wall and ran a single USB cable and a monitor cable through. He installed a USB hub and plugged his KB and mouse into that. He also plugged a USB CD-ROM into the hub. Then he stuffed the hole with paper and put his desk right in front of it.

      His office is *dead quiet*. When he needs to play a game, He uses USB headphones and turns on the power to the USB CD-ROM drive.

      --
      I'd rather you do it wrong, than for me to have to do it at all.
    13. Re:Quiet or silent? by Bios_Hakr · · Score: 1

      Rubber grommets are cheap. Computer modding gear is expensive. Buying rubber grommets in a computer store or from an online modding site will be expensive.

      I think you missed the point of the knife. You aren't cutting grommets out of the intertube, you are cutting strips the size of the drive. There should be *no* contact between the drive and the case.

      "9-11 certified" is my offices' nickname for a box cutter. We get pretty raw on weekends and nights. Coming up with new shit to piss people off is one great way of passing time.

      As for dryer sheets, did you ever smoke in your room? We used to take toilet-paper rolls and stuff them with dryer sheets. We'd exhale through that. In goes smoky air, our comes clean air. Or so we thought :/ In any event, as long as some jackass doesn't try and cram 50 sheets into a small pipe, you'll be OK. 90-degree bends are the best, but can be time/space consuming. It might also be overkill. A 120mm fan wired to use 5v vice 12v is already just about inaudible. Adding a few dryer sheets or a layer of pantyhose over the exaust will make it completely silent.

      --
      I'd rather you do it wrong, than for me to have to do it at all.
    14. Re:Quiet or silent? by lidocaineus · · Score: 1

      Finally, take the fucking thing off the desk

      Why? I have a HUGE desk. It's about 8 feet long, and has a longer "L" corner. I have two flatscreens and a laptop on an iCurve. The PC is a shuttle. That thing is obnoxious sitting on the floor, and very nice sitting on the desk. Lots of people have PCs that are just a bit bigger than that. We don't all have mini towers you know.

    15. Re:Quiet or silent? by evilviper · · Score: 2, Informative
      You'll pay a premium for "rubber grommets for component mounting".

      "A premium" being $0.25 each?

      I know a lot of people are concerned over heat. Truth is, computers can run really fucking hot with no problems. 50c is a good number to be happy with. Even 60c isn't a big problem. Just make sure the hard drives are getting cool, fresh air.

      60c isn't a problem FOR THE CPU, but it is for everything else in the system. I doubt you'll get through POST with a 60C northbridge (Thank God AMD rid us of dammed hot and unstable northbridges). Your PSU won't last a week at 60C. Your GPU will certainly start throwing visual glitches at you. And your RAM doesn't stand much of a chance, either. Hard drives are the most critical, of course, so keep them as cool as possible.

      There is little you can do to quite a bad power supply.

      That's completely untrue. Open it up. Remove the stock fan, and replace it with a nice quiet 80mm unit. Makes even the loudest $5 PSUs nearly silent. If you know how to solder, you can mount a 3-pin fan adapter very easily. If not, splicing the wires works fine.

      Between the fan and the exit, stuff in some crumpled dryer sheets. These allow air flow but really deaden the noise. You can also use several stacked dryer sheets over the intake fans as well.

      They "allow" a lot LESS airflow, and in a month, when they've become clogged with dust, lint, and hair, they'll be choking off your fans, and your system will cook. I've tried various filters, and have given-up on all of them. They just don't work.

      Finally, take the fucking thing off the desk. There is no reason to have the PC on your desk. Put it under the desk or behind it.

      Agreed. Having it on carpet, and further away from your ears, makes for a huge improvement.

      You know that box that the thing came in, use that to make a "computer cozy". Cut a few holes for air and cover them with dryer sheets. Cut another hole for the CD-ROM and cover that with a dryer sheet hinge.

      Gah! So now you've got an incredibly ugly card-board box with holes in it, instead of your nice-looking PC case... suffocating your PC, starving it of air, holding much of the hot air in, making it take up much more space, making it much harder to service, etc. That's a really, really, really terrible idea.

      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
    16. Re:Quiet or silent? by Tim+C · · Score: 1

      My 6800GT idled at about 77C, and regularly hit 120C at load (at which point the thermal protection would cut in and slow the core down to reduce the temperature). I don't recall ever seeing any artifacts, but I may just have been lucky/unobservant.

      In contrast, my 7800GTX idles at 56C, which is much healthier...

    17. Re:Quiet or silent? by thedletterman · · Score: 1

      Heat and irregular voltage are the two major causes of electrical component failure. Your PC may run fine at 100C, but I guarantee you an identical system running at 40c will last alot longer... and by the time you realize the heat is too much for your system to handle it's too late. It's like this guy I knew who got his first turbo, and I kept telling him, let it idle for a few minutes in the driveway before turning it off after you're done driving it hard and hot. He said his car drove fine and that it wasn't necessary. Two years later he dished out $15,000 for a new pair of turbo chargers... after cooking his bearings.

      --
      Any fool can criticise, condemn, and complain, and most fools do. - Benjamin Franklin
    18. Re:Quiet or silent? by Tarwn · · Score: 1

      It must be the caes. I was thinking the same thing. I spent $1200 for new parts to rebuild this box and it is barely audible from a couple feet away:

      Antex P180 Case
      Enermax NoiseTaker PSU
      Athlon64 3700+
      Stock heatsink - ditton on the source of noise
      BFG 7800 GTX OC
      Matched 1GB Patriot RAM sticks
      200GB Seagate SATA
      SATA DVD+-R (can't remember vendor)
      Epox mobo

      As the parent said, it isn't silent, but I have to look at it to tell if it's on if a game is playing.

      --
      Whee signature.
    19. Re:Quiet or silent? by spyrochaete · · Score: 1

      The Antec Sonata cases come with rubber grommets, a 120mm low RPM fan, and a TruPower PSU which is dual fan but extremely quiet. It's definitely not as economical as DIY (cost me $120 Canadian) but it's a great all-in-one package with custom fitted parts. My Sonata (first series) is almost completely silent, even while gaming. Its only shortcoming (other than price) is that there's no hooks to help fold back cables, and the PSU doesn't have detachable plugs, so you have to do some anaconda wrestling to tame the jungle.

    20. Re:Quiet or silent? by Pollardito · · Score: 1

      don't break the flow, man. he had a McGyver-thing going on and i was feeling it

  10. I dunno... by Shadow+Wrought · · Score: 3, Funny
    is hardly audible from more than a meter away

    That sounds pretty far away. What about if you're closer, like say within 3 feet or so? ;-)

    --
    If brevity is the soul of wit, then how does one explain Twitter?
    1. Re:I dunno... by ThinSkin · · Score: 1

      No, no, no. You've got it wrong. You gotta be like say within a yard or so. ;)

    2. Re:I dunno... by Cervantes · · Score: 1

      Bah humbug, I think we should go back to the NASA system.

      So how many Volkswagons away can I be from my compy?

      --
      If I knew the wedgies I gave you back in 6th grade would have resulted in this . . . I might have taken a moments pause.
  11. Expensive by Nightspirit · · Score: 5, Insightful

    You can create a realtivly silent gaming PC for under a grand. I built an amd 3400+, 1gig ram, ATI 9800 pro video, and a silent case for not that much money over a year ago (def under a grand), and using MS' game machine analyzer it rates in the top 3% of gaming PCs.

    Why do all these "game machine" and "media center" how-to guides build such expensive computers? The day where the average gamer or home computer user spends $2000-2500 on a computer is a decade ago.

    1. Re:Expensive by tedgyz · · Score: 1

      Why do all these "game machine" and "media center" how-to guides build such expensive computers? The day where the average gamer or home computer user spends $2000-2500 on a computer is a decade ago.

      Agreed. I built an all out gaming machine a few months ago where money was not a big concern and I only spent about $1500. If money were an issue, I could have brought it closer to $1000.

      --
      "No matter where you go, there you are." -- Buckaroo Banzai
    2. Re:Expensive by geekoid · · Score: 1

      "amd 3400+, 1gig ram, ATI 9800 "
      wow, where did you ge quite RAM?

      Seriously though, I would rather wear ear protection then put AMD and ATI in my box.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    3. Re:Expensive by Duncan3 · · Score: 1

      Why do all these "game machine" and "media center" how-to guides build such expensive computers? The day where the average gamer or home computer user spends $2000-2500 on a computer is a decade ago.

      Because then companies send them expensive toys to write up.

      Noone has any excuse to spend more then a Mac Mini on a home PC, and it's almost silent. It's not a game PC of course, but when you crank up a game PC, it's gonna be loud no matter what, that's alot of wattage to disipate.

      --
      - Adam L. Beberg - The Cosm Project - http://www.mithral.com/
    4. Re:Expensive by tedgyz · · Score: 1

      You can create a realtivly silent gaming PC for under a grand. I built an amd 3400+, 1gig ram, ATI 9800 pro video, and a silent case for not that much money over a year ago (def under a grand), and using MS' game machine analyzer it rates in the top 3% of gaming PCs.

      You mean the Windows Game Advisor, right? Warning - IE required.

      I scored in the top 1%. Pbbbbbbtttt. :-)

      AMD X2 3800+, 2GB OCZ PC3200 RAM, Seagate 7200.9 (SATA2) 120GB, Abit Fatal1ty AN8 SLI, GeForce 7800GT

      --
      "No matter where you go, there you are." -- Buckaroo Banzai
    5. Re:Expensive by ross.w · · Score: 1

      You've obviously never met my neighbor.

      --
      If my call is important, why am I talking to a recording?
    6. Re:Expensive by smithmc · · Score: 1

        Why do all these "game machine" and "media center" how-to guides build such expensive computers? The day where the average gamer or home computer user spends $2000-2500 on a computer is a decade ago.

      Oh, I don't know - I've always kind of had a rule of thumb for myself that the computer you really want always costs about two thousand bucks. (Actually, I heard that somewhere, but I can't remember where - Dvorak maybe?) Anyway, it's been true just about as long as I could remember - whenever I look at what's out there, the machine I would buy (if I were actually shopping around at that time) costs around $2000-$2500. Yes you can pay more, but you run into diminishing returns, and of course you can pay less, but then you end up somewhat short of what you'd really be happy with.
       

      --
      Downmodding is the refuge of the weak. Don't downmod, make a better argument!
  12. 3d iMarks by porneL · · Score: 1, Interesting

    How many 3D Marks Intel iMac gets (or will get when someone hacks drivers)? It's super silent and cheaper than that...

    1. Re:3d iMarks by VikingThunder · · Score: 1

      Well, the Intel iMac would not even be comparable to this system. Hence the price difference. (Such as: Radeon X1600 vs GeForce 7900 GTX)

    2. Re:3d iMarks by Slashcrap · · Score: 1

      How many 3D Marks Intel iMac gets (or will get when someone hacks drivers)?

      Doesn't it come with Intel integrated video (the GMA950 or something like that)?

      If so, I'd estimate it would get around 12 3D Marks. If someone hacks the drivers and overclocks the living fuck out of it, you may even get 14.

      Of course 3D Mark is a DirectX benchmark and the Mac uses OpenGL. So you would have to wait until a version of VMWare came out for the Intel Mac and then use its experimental Direct3D to OpenGL translation layer. Unfortunately 3D Mark only produces integer results - depending on whether they round up or down you would either get 0 or 1 3D Mark.

      I think you'd be better off sticking with a PC if you want to run 3D Mark a lot.

  13. Wouldn't it have been a better idea... by Kittie+Rose · · Score: 3, Funny

    Just to turn his speakers off?

    --
    EpiAdv - if you like Pokey the Penguin, try this comic!
    1. Re:Wouldn't it have been a better idea... by barefootgenius · · Score: 1
      "Just to turn his speakers off?"


      Or on?

      --
      /. bug #926803 - Why I can post.
  14. My PC... by MaestroSartori · · Score: 3, Interesting

    ...is quiet enough to do music recording in the same room as it. It's fast enough to play most current games at reasonable framerates. It's a four year old Dell with a newer pro-spec soundcard and cheap nvidia fanless graphics card, and is whisper quiet now. When I first got it, it was totally silent except for the DVD drive sometimes whirring a bit. I literally couldn't tell it was turned on. I think the big slow fan is getting old, so it does make some noise now.

    Where is everyone else getting their hideously noisy jet-engine PCs from? Or am I just lucky?

    1. Re:My PC... by gEvil+(beta) · · Score: 1

      Making fairly quiet machines is one area where I will give Dell decent marks. So that's part of the reason there. The other is that it's a 4 year old machine, meaning the processor probably barely needs a fan on it.

      --
      This guy's the limit!
    2. Re:My PC... by Schnapple · · Score: 2, Informative
      Where is everyone else getting their hideously noisy jet-engine PCs from? Or am I just lucky?
      You said it yourself that your video card was cheap and fanless. Most expensive video cards have fans, so that's one source. CPU fan is another, but those are mostly quiet. But I think it's really this - most gamers that build their own systems (you bought yours from Dell) will spend all their money on the motherboard, CPU, card, etc. but then go and get the cheapest case and PSU they can find. I should know, that's what I did. I had this decent metal case for seven years until recently. And when my PSU would go out I would go out and buy the cheapest PSU with the most watts. The 500W CompUSA $24.99 special? I'm so there.

      Then recently I started to learn how cheap offbrand PSU's are bad. And I got a Antec Sonata II case, not because of noise but because it just looked cool (it was that or the Antec P180 but that one was too big). The Sonata II comes with a 450W power supply so I just used that. And I booted it up and damn, it was quiet. I used to think only wimps needed quiet PC's. I used to think a loud PC was just an expression of how good and powerful it was. Boy, that was stupid.

      So to sum up, Dells have been pretty quiet for years now, but most hardcore gamers don't run Dells. Some even scoff at Alienware. Personally, I just like having full control - I reccomend Dell to anyone who doesn't want full control (or who I don't want to have to support on the phone)

    3. Re:My PC... by TrappedByMyself · · Score: 1

      but most hardcore gamers don't run Dells

      Don't confuse hardcore gamers with people who overspend on hardware.
      There are many 12 year gamers old using their dad's old computer who can spank the single 30 year olds who have nothing better to do with their money than to spend an extra few thousand dollars to gain a few percent increase in performance

      --

      Help me take back Slashdot. When did 'News for Nerds' become 'FUD and Conspiracy Theories for Extremist Nutjobs'?
    4. Re:My PC... by massysett · · Score: 2, Interesting
      Dells have been pretty quiet for years now

      I can't stand Dell, but I give them credit for this. They seem to put attention into making their PCs quiet, though some of this might also be part of a drive to reduce costs.

      My Dell Optiplex sitting next to me is fairly quiet. There are only two fans in the thing. The Pentium 4 sits under neath a heat sink, and a plastic shroud covers that and directs airflow to the 92 mm case fan. The case fan has a thermostat in it to vary the speed. The only other fan in the thing is the power supply, and I never hear it. The northbridge has a heatsink on it, and the cheap Nvidia has a heatsink too.

      The PC noise varies with ambient room temperature and with what the PC is doing. If it's cool in here and the PC is idle, I barely hear it at all. It does ramp up a bit if the CPU is at full throttle (doing Folding at Home.)

      Dell noise does seem to vary depending on whether one gets a cheap Dell or the cheapest Dell (pretty much the only two choices -- XPS is just overpriced cheap Dell.) I've heard the cheapest Dell Celerons, and they're louder than my P4.

      I will definitely build my next PC, but have been amazed at how many fans are in a typical build. You're looking at at least three fans (PSU, CPU, and case fan) though typically the northbridge has a fan too. Those really concern me because they're so small. Unfortunately only expensive ATX motherboards have passively cooled northbridges. Or you can get a cheap micro ATX that is passively cooled, but a lot of these micro ATX boards seem to have troubles with Linux. That, and no slots.

      I figure I will go with the Asus A8N5X, the top rated one on Newegg. I can't find anything about it on Google regarding Linux, which hopefully means it works without trouble. I'll take my chances and take off the northbridge fan and replace it with a Zalman northbridge heatsink. Isn't modding what building a PC is all about :)

    5. Re:My PC... by Prez_n_Tenz · · Score: 1
      I completely agree. Dell do a fantastic job with the thermal (and therefore noise) qualities of the their systems. However, they choose the cheapest of the cheap when it comes to components and after a while it shows.

      I generally upgrade my main system ever 2 years and when I do don't skimp. The thing that bugged me about my current machine ins that after 2 years or so the PSU fan would whine (same thing happened on my last Dell). So this time I did a self build and even though I purchased everything low noise(Lian Li 1100B, Zalman PSU & CPU Cooler,etc..) I was surprised at the noise this thing made. It's not that it's really noisy, it's just the Dell was much quieter.

      I'm not a gamer, no overclocking fancy graphics cards or anything. It's just a good developer workstation (it's really about I/O these days). Noisy things mainly seem to be the fans; I'm replacing all of them with even quieter one to see if it helps.

      All in all it's a nice machine but hidden under the desk it's not THAT much nicer than a Dell out of the box. Only time will tell if my premium components remain quiet for the next 2 years.

      The whole quiet PC thing seems silly until you hear a truly quiet machine. After that your realise just how much noise pollution there is in a modern office that we don't notice.

      You can get the same effect with a pair of noise cancelling headphones...turn it on in your office and get ready to be surprised.

    6. Re:My PC... by evilviper · · Score: 1
      I will definitely build my next PC, but have been amazed at how many fans are in a typical build. You're looking at at least three fans (PSU, CPU, and case fan)

      More of the larger and slower fans are better than fewer, faster fans.

      though typically the northbridge has a fan too. Those really concern me because they're so small. Unfortunately only expensive ATX motherboards have passively cooled northbridges.

      Even the passively-cooled northbridges need a fan, they just leave them off to fool you. My Asus and MSI motherboars would burn-up without very good airflow across the northbridge heatsink. Northbridges are well on their way to using more power than the CPU, and yet they still get tiny heatsinks and fans, and really can't handle tempuratures as high as CPUs while remaining stable... This stuff is ass-backwards now.

      However, you REALLY, REALLY should be looking at AMD64s (Opteron, Sempron64s, Athlon64s, Turions, etc.) which have the memory-controller integrated on the CPU now, nearly eliminating the need for a northbridge, and certainly eliminating the reason for northbridges to be so damn hot.

      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  15. What about Liquid Cooling? by Voltageaav · · Score: 2, Interesting

    It's not that expensive for a kit anymore, cuts noise out of the picture completely, and is much more effecient to boot. http://compreviews.about.com/od/cpus/a/LiquidCooli ng.htm I don't know why more people don't use it.

    --
    Someone save me from this sanity.
    1. Re:What about Liquid Cooling? by Rob+T+Firefly · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I don't know why more people don't use it.

      Because many less-than-advanced PC builders are still skittish about introducing liquid fluid of the wet persuasion into their PC case.

    2. Re:What about Liquid Cooling? by Voltageaav · · Score: 1

      That's where my laptop comes into play. My Desktop only moves when I change residences.

      --
      Someone save me from this sanity.
    3. Re:What about Liquid Cooling? by zullnero · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I had one of the first Koolance cases they released. It was amazing for about a year. Then one day, I went to swap out a hard drive, and I must have cracked one of the nozzles. A day later, I had green coolant leaking out of my machine. Luckily, nothing sprayed out or splashed around...much, and my hardware was all working fine. Well, I was stuck ordering a new water pump. After a year of that, the stupid thing started leaking...again. I had noticed that the temperatures had been steadily climbing, so I went to check the inside of my box. Turns out, the new metal nozzle wasn't quite as snug as the old molded plastic one from the original pump, and there was a crystallized formation growing on the hose that opened up a crack in it. Anyway, I replaced both of my boxes with 100 dollar Aspire X-Cruiser cases with Zalman GPU fans. They keep my stuff just about as cool, are reasonably quiet...and best yet, the analog backlit meters on the front provide a wonderful blue glow that lights up my living room at night. :)

    4. Re:What about Liquid Cooling? by evilviper · · Score: 1
      It's not that expensive for a kit anymore,

      Right. It's not ludicrously expensive anymore... Now it's only ridiculously expensive. What an improvement!

      Meanwhile, for ~$30 in fans and a good heatsink, you can make any system practically-silent, without major work or modifications. I would know, my 100watt DVR is barely above the noise floor.

      cuts noise out of the picture completely,

      Umm, no, absolutely not. You've got to have a pump to circulate the fluid and a fan over the radiator to disperse all that heat. Finally, liquid cooling doesn't make your hard drives, CD/DVD Drives, or (buzzing) electrical components, any quieter. I've long-since reached that point with my fan-based system.

      Plus, with my fan-based system, I hook it up to some ducting, and the fans blow most of the heat right out of the building. Obviously that would be much more difficult with liquid-cooling.
      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
    5. Re:What about Liquid Cooling? by catch23 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Liquid cooling can be cheap too! Instead of wasting all that cash on expensive rigs, just get your parts from the auto store & home depot. The only thing you'll have to buy are the cpu/vga water blocks. Everything else can by bought via home depot. I bought a $50 1985 Honda radiator on ebay (new) and retrofitted it to 4 CPUs and 2 video cards. There's also a 5 gallon jug of water connected to the system. I used 2 $40 500gph pond pumps from petsmart to pump the water through all the tubing. The most expensive part of all of this is probably the water blocks which will usually run you about $70 per cpu. I'm using 2 Koolance blocks, and 4 Zalman blocks. The single radiator is large enough that it doesn't need a fan to reduce the temperature 10 degrees celsius. The car radiator isn't the prettiest thing in the world, but at least it's got more surface area than any other passive water cooling system commercially available. I'm just using basic distilled water.

    6. Re:What about Liquid Cooling? by shorgs · · Score: 1

      Plus, with my fan-based system, I hook it up to some ducting, and the fans blow most of the heat right out of the building. Obviously that would be much more difficult with liquid-cooling.

      Dude, you hooked your air cooled pc up to your duct system...and you're knocking this guy for running a few tubes through his pc?

    7. Re:What about Liquid Cooling? by evilviper · · Score: 1
      Dude, you hooked your air cooled pc up to your duct system...and you're knocking this guy for running a few tubes through his pc?

      I must have missed something here. I wasn't "knocking" him for using liquid cooling, I was going through the limitations of such systems (price, diminishing returns, etc) because he was recomending everyone go out and switch to such systems.

      You'll have to clarify. I really don't understand your comment at all.
      --
      Slashdot gets worse every day... Pipedot: News for nerds, without the corporate slant
  16. Some wrong choices made for a silent gaming rig by jmke · · Score: 3, Informative

    YOu don't need FX-57 or 7900GTX to play the latest games; if he choices mid-range products they will produce less heat, and can be cooled easily without extra noise. CPU cooler choice is outdated model, CNPS7700 is old, CNPS9500/9700 is better choice, and there are tons of alternatives which offer even better performance/noise ratios like Scythe Ninja to name one. The choice of case is "okay", Antec's own P150 would be much more suited though. at $2000 this silent system is hardly budget friendly; too many expensive parts. My route to silence was posted on /. last year: http://www.madshrimps.be/gotoartik.php?articID=286

    1. Re:Some wrong choices made for a silent gaming rig by aka1nas · · Score: 1

      I think(hope) that they chose those parts just to prove that they could maintain a desired noise level along with keeping a high-end system cool. They mentioned that they wanted to build something that could still be stable when OC'ed, so picking an FX-57 and a 7900 based card simulates that. In reality, I would have swapped the FX-57 for an Opteron 165, dropped down to the cheaper 7900 model. That would shave off at least $700 or so.

    2. Re:Some wrong choices made for a silent gaming rig by jmke · · Score: 1

      "that they could maintain a desired noise level" - they never measure or state their desired noise level :)

  17. Re:Did this years ago, but better by Oliver+Defacszio · · Score: 2, Funny

    Yeah, but how do you breathe?

    --

    -
    Inventor of the term 'pardon my French'.
  18. Yeah, Dynamat by ignatz72 · · Score: 5, Informative

    When I first saw this article the first thing that popped into my head was DYNAMAT. Though the Antec solution w/ foam is pretty cool. But what about the dust that would collect in the foam? EWW.

    A couple drawbacks with Dynamat - it ain't cheap, so it would cost more than the foam kit, but you could build a quiet box much cheaper than $2500 anyway, so that probably isn't a huge consideration.

    I've used Dynamat in my car, and it is also kinda tough to work with. For best results you have to warm it for fitting, and that means you're working with a sheet of sticky play-doh. And you would think cutting it with an xacto knife or razor would be cake, but again, it's tricky.

    Unfortunately, Dynamat probably would likely retain some ambient heat in the case just like the foam. To what degree though? *shrug*

    One last thought - Dynamat is typically used in much louder, more dynamic volume environments - your car with a thumpin system on a street with potholes. Seems like Dynamat is more for serious vibration dampening vs. ambient dampening. Then again, I haven't coated my car's interior walls or hood w/ Dynamat, so what do I know?

    1. Re:Yeah, Dynamat by DigiShaman · · Score: 2, Informative

      Seems like Dynamat is more for serious vibration dampening vs. ambient dampening.

      That's exactly what it's for! In order to reduce or eliminate the white noise created from fans, you will need to use foam. Dynamat won't do anything for a PC other than reduce vibrational noise caused by hard drives and the like.

      --
      Life is not for the lazy.
    2. Re:Yeah, Dynamat by ddopson · · Score: 2, Informative

      There are three classes of acoustic products: Sound absorbtion and damping (air) - this is foam. It takes air born sound waves, absorbs them (as in _not_ reflecting), and converts them to heat (very little heat) Sound absorbtion and damping (solid) - this is dynamat. It takes sound waves traveling through a solid and damps them into heat. Kills vibrations on metal parts. Has an indirect effect on airborn sound by damping noise that is absorbed by the solid and would have otherwise been retransmitted (eg kills road noise in your car). Sound blocking - eg homosote. Prevents sound waves on one side from traveling to the other. May reflect a lot of sound if not used in conjunction with an absorbative material.

    3. Re:Yeah, Dynamat by celery+stalk · · Score: 1

      I agree with you, except on what to use. Dynamat is basically a cheap sheet of asphalt, that somehow goes up 10X in price when they silkscreen "Dynamat" on it. If you know where to get it, you can save a lot of money for the same thing.

      Check out McMaster-Carr. Use the search box on the left to look for (page) 3302, and that will take you to the sound damping materials. The "white box Dynamat" is the Polymeric Mastic, stock # 9709T19, at $14.62 for 12sq feet. Shipping might cost a bit due to weight, but it should still come out cheaper than Dynamat brand sheets (at ~$12/sq foot).

      --
      aaaand...whee!
  19. Did all of you flunk 3rd grade math? by SuperRob · · Score: 1

    People, a meter is only 3 feet. Correct me if I'm long, but standard cables start around 1.5-2m in length. No special setup necessary, certainly no need to hide the machine, and any suggestion that a meter would somehow be inconvenient is ludicrous unless you like to wear your computer as a HAT while you use it.

    1. Re:Did all of you flunk 3rd grade math? by damsa · · Score: 1

      Considering most males approach 2 meters in height and at sitting position you are likely to be more than a meter away from the floor. And usually a tower computer is left on the floor not on a desk, and using the pythagorems theorem I learned in the 8th grade. It's highly unlikely that anyone uses their tower computer less than one meter away from their ears.

    2. Re:Did all of you flunk 3rd grade math? by X0563511 · · Score: 1

      Doesn't even matter. You can hear a normal gaming computer clear across the room. Even if you are somehow within that meter, it's still going to be MUCH quieter than usual.

      --
      For large sets, this will be our guide even unto death, for the LORD will work for each type of data it is applied to...
    3. Re:Did all of you flunk 3rd grade math? by dalerb · · Score: 1

      Let's do some actual 3rd grade math here: two meters is 78.72 inches or almost 6'7". Most males don't really "approach" that height at all. (I should know, I'm about 1.98 meters tall myself.)

    4. Re:Did all of you flunk 3rd grade math? by damsa · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I know how to do 3rd grade math. In the 4th grade I learned the concept of rounding.

    5. Re:Did all of you flunk 3rd grade math? by Cheapy · · Score: 1

      "and using the pythagorems theorem I learned in the 8th grade. It's highly unlikely that anyone uses their tower computer less than one meter away from their ears."

      I didn't know the Pythagorean theorem could find out the chance of something happening! Cool!

      --
      Would you kindly mod me +1 insightful?
  20. Newly discovered eh? by InsaneLampshade · · Score: 1

    Umm... as far as i know, the AcoustiPack foam has been around since at least 2004 if not longer.

    So much for "newly discovered".

  21. Quantatative Analysis? by Wizworm · · Score: 1

    Spend 40 bucks at radio shack and get a Sound Pressure Level meter and give me the DB readings

    DB Reading with no equiptment on, normal to the plane of your ear, at ear height. You get the picture

    --
    I always thought of Creationism as the Raving Right's version of the Loony Left's Anthropogenic Global Warming-brightmal
    1. Re:Quantatative Analysis? by titzandkunt · · Score: 1


      "Spend 40 bucks at radio shack and get a Sound Pressure Level meter and give me the DB readings

      DB Reading with no equiptment on, normal to the plane of your ear, at ear height. You get the picture"


      From TFA: "...The sound pressure level measurements were taken with a CEL-254 SPL meter, using fast mode and A-weighting...".

      T&K.

      --
      Political language ... is designed to make lies sound truthful and murder respectable...
  22. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by masklinn · · Score: 1

    uh, they used a Sonata II case (which is better than the Sonata, P180's better though) and a Seasonic PSU (which is better than any PSU Antec offers as far as noise goes, Phantom 300 excluded, and even then...).

    Doesn't make the system any less half assed though, the rad sucks (come on, Zalman 7700 Al/Cu? there is like an thousand better rads, ditto for using the stock Zalman fan), the FX-57 is stupid, the WD drives are far from silent, ...

    Good pick on the OTES motherboard and the 7900 cooling system is not *that* bad (far better than what the 6k generation used to have)

    I still fail to see why slashdot accepts advertisement from gaming websites though, if the editors want to promote silent rigs they should mention SPCR's articles on the subject, not ET's.

    --
    "The way we can tell it's C# instead of Haskell is because it's nine lines instead of two." -- wadler
  23. Re:Why bother? by geekoid · · Score: 1

    DId you know a high quality(really high quality) sounds systems will allow you to talk at a normal level while cranking the music up?

    Unless the noises you want to hear are from the same range of freq. as the music, the system should not interfere with them. If it does it should not be labled high quality.

    OTOH, we live in an age where 'gold' connectors, db rating, and speaker distortion seem to be the hall mark of quality sound systmes.

    --
    The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
  24. Re:Other options by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

    The only thing I have to say about this is:

    http://www.silentpcreview.com/

    I'm stunned it hasn't been mentioned already. It's pretty much the only place that you can take their computer noise information seriously and has a great community as well. Everything from very reliably sound tested retail parts to crazy do-it-yourself projects (including shoving it in a cupboard) are intelligently talked about there. I know this sounds like an ad but go there yourself, you'll see.

  25. Build systems for old people by slowbad · · Score: 1
    Forget the costs of making it quiet for the 18-34 demographic group:

    1. 35 and overs lose 3db hearing with each passing decade.
    2. Farsightedness makes them sit back 1" further each year.
    3. They have more money to spend than younger people do.

  26. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by fishbowl · · Score: 1

    "Why not just pick up an Antec Sonata case. It's only about a $100 and it sounds like it's alot quieter than this half assed setup."

    The Sonata is disappointingly not so quiet. The Antec P-150 is quieter off the shelf. I'm in the unfortunate position of needing to use a PC within reach of a piano. In that environment, it's amazing how loud and distracting "-27dB" can be.

    --
    -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  27. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by fishbowl · · Score: 1

    "Doesn't make the system any less half assed though, the rad sucks (come on, Zalman 7700 Al/Cu? there is like an thousand better rads, ditto for using the stock Zalman fan), the FX-57 is stupid, the WD drives are far from silent, ...:

    It would have been useful to me, had you suggested what would be better.

    The Zalman 7's are the quietest fansinks I know about. I found Samsung SP drives to be surprisingly quiet, not even considering how cheap they are. Also, none of my applications require anything from a video card except 2-D desktop, and they need to not interfere with audio or USB.

    --
    -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  28. Re:Did this years ago, but better by Soporific · · Score: 1

    I use a snorkel.

    ~S

  29. Re:Did this years ago, but better by fishbowl · · Score: 1

    > A fishtank filled with silicone oil works better. Complete silence.

    How much that weigh? How does it smell?

    --
    -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  30. Re:Liquid cooling... by Random+Destruction · · Score: 1

    I don't know about that these days. Those huge heatpipe coolers seem to be pretty good. I haven't used them myself, as I am a fan of H2O as well, but I was impressed by some of the c/w numbers ive seen lately. Though processor heatsinks are approaching the size of water cooling systems as well :)

    --
    :x
  31. Re:Why bother? by rkanodia · · Score: 1

    Unless the noises you want to hear are from the same range of freq. as the music, the system should not interfere with them.

    Thanks for the tip, John Cage. Unfortunately, most of us normal folk like to listen to music that actually covers the frequency range used by human voice, since it includes low, medium, and high frequency instruments, and, oh yeah, human voices.

  32. Re:Other options by fishbowl · · Score: 1

    > Why not grab the cheaper components and shove the machine in a cupboard?

    I can't find 10 meter vga and usb cables.

    --
    -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  33. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by geekoid · · Score: 1

    Why don't you put the powerfull PC in another room, and use a less powerfull (and quiter) one next to the piano and use VNC.
    Maybe you can use an mac mini? Not that I am a Mac head, only that they are supposed to be silent.

    --
    The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
  34. Everyone. by Inoshiro · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Every single workstation in the comp sci lab at the University has the monitor on top of the actual computer case. A 1m radius sphere around it would intersect with anyone's head.

    When I sit at a desktop at home, my head is between 70 and 90cm from 2 computer towers, both of which are on my desk next to my monitor.

    Do you know that a metre is 100cm, or 3 and 1/3rd feet?

    I don't know of any people who have their PC cases far away from their monitors, and I don't know of any people who sit more than 1 metre from their monitor (it makes it hard to read the contents!).

    --
    --
    Internet Explorer (n): Another bug -- that is, a feature that can't be turned off -- in Windows.
    1. Re:Everyone. by mmj638 · · Score: 1

      > I don't know of any people who have their PC cases far away from their monitors, Reducing noise is the main reason I have my case located far away from my monitor/keyboard. If you want to reduce noise, I would highly recommend it as noise decreases significantly with increases in distance. As for the comment about not being able to hear anything from one metre away - well that depends on how quiet the room is!

  35. My quiet rig, with only two fans by nuzak · · Score: 1

    Here's how my adventures with cooling went with my Athlon64 3200+

    Zalman CPU cooler: $40
    Side intake fan: came with the case.
    Extra intake fan: $8
    Double-wide slot fan: $20
    Front intake fan assembly: $20

    After all that, it was still overheating ... goddammit (and many expletives more colorful than that). So I took off the side panel, and replaced all those fans (except of course the CPU cooler) with:

    6" clip-on fan: $15

    Clipped it to the top of the case and pointed it inward. Works perfectly. Quieter too. Not winning any beauty contests, but at least it stops locking up. Also, assuming you haven't done what I did, it's a very good idea to blow the dust off your CPU heatsink or get a filter so you don't get dust

    --
    Done with slashdot, done with nerds, getting a life.
    1. Re:My quiet rig, with only two fans by Zerbs · · Score: 1

      I also agree it's not that hard or expensive to build a very quiet computer. I used an Antec Lanboy case for under $100 and it came with quiet front intake fan and rear fan (rubber clip mounted fans), rubber grommits for the drive bays, and even a removable carrying strap for taking it to a lanparty or convention or something. The only mod I made to it was to take out the annoying blinking blue LEDs from the front fan, drove me nuts!

      I suppose anything was better noisewise than my compact Cyang-Fun case, which looked cool and had a built in handle on the case, but sounded like a 747 taking off.

      --
      "22 astronauts were born in Ohio. What is it about your state that makes people want to flee the Earth?" Stephen Colbert
  36. I can't hear mine either by Mr.+Freeman · · Score: 1

    I don't know about anyone else, but I can barely hear my computer and I'm about 2 feet away from it. (It sits on my desk, not 2 feet away in a cupboard or something). It just uses quiet fans. This is also a stock mid-level machine, I haven't done any upgrades to it, cooling systems or otherwise.

    --
    -1 disagree is not a modifier for a reason. -1 troll, flaimbait, redundant, overrated are NOT acceptable substitutes.
    1. Re:I can't hear mine either by thedletterman · · Score: 1

      Seriously, I couldn't even calculate how much i spent on my PC since it's been piece by part upgrades for years, but I would consider it a solid mid-line contendor.. Athlon 64 3200, geforce 6200, 1GB (2x512) ram. I chose a fairly expensive coolermaster powersupply, and used an antec case with 120mm fans. The CPU uses copper pipes and a low speed fan as well. I didn't spend more than maybe na extra hundred bucks on what keeps it cool and quiet, and it performs (in these two categories) better than my laptop.

      --
      Any fool can criticise, condemn, and complain, and most fools do. - Benjamin Franklin
  37. I happen to have the same setup and... by Shazow · · Score: 1

    It's quiet, but not the heat measurements are deceiving.

    I also have a Sonata II case, with a very quiet Vantec PSU, a relatively quiet Radeon 9600XT, and the same heatsink. Difference: Athlon XP 2800+ cpu, Maxtor SATA drives, no sound-absorbing foam etc. When I turn all my fans on minimum, I quite literally can't hear my computer, and this is without the sound-absorbing foam.

    Yes, my computer also idles somewhere around ~50C.

    But on high load? The temperature can go as high as +70C when watching a movie, and even up to 80C when compiling (yes, I run Gentoo) under "aggressive" bios settings.

    This is not very satisfactory. I'm convinced that the foam would only make matters worse (since sound isn't a problem as it is). Normally, I run it on medium fan settings -- you can hear it humm quietly, but it's not distracting.

    I highly recommend the Sonata II case and Vantec power supplies, but don't expect low temperatures with low sound.

    - shazow

    1. Re:I happen to have the same setup and... by Philus · · Score: 1

      That's a bit too high for me at least.. here(warning: norwegian) is my beast of a cpu cooler, I turn it down to 50% or so, and I don't hear a thing. 120mm fans rewls. The temperature is around 40-50 degrees, wether i run the fan on full blast or not. With a little more airflow in the case I could probably skip the cpu fan entirely, but it's so quiet anyway.. heh.
      I wish I had a better case though. Airflow around the harddisks is terrible, I've had to drill holes in it to get air in there. 50 degrees is too much for a HD, isn't it? I like it better around 35-40.
      I'm a student, so there's a lot of things that get priority before a new case.. like staying alive and stuff.

  38. Interesting use of foam... by John+Whitley · · Score: 3, Informative

    Note that foam generally does a pretty good job of absorbing sound reflection, but what many folks don't understand is that it's fairly poor at dealing with sound transmission. It helps a lot that computer noise tends to be relatively high frequency, which foam is better at absorbing. As an example, an attempt to dampen out upstairs neighbors' footsteps using acoustic foam is an expensive way to do nothing. Especially as all acoustic foam is less effective the lower the frequency of the sound.

    In TFA, the foam primarily seems to be used to dampen internal reflections, making the case's sound reduction more effective. E.g. foaming the inside of the venting duct helps to reduce high frequency noise escaping from the duct. Clever.

    A great solution that I've used over the years is to just shove the computer into a closet, or even into the basement if the space affords it. When scouting out new living spaces, the ability to keep computers out of earshot has often been a key decision maker for me. I even got my last landlord to let me put a 4" circular port for cable passage into a closet off of a finished basement for just such purposes. Air space in the port was filled with foam discs cut to size -- open air passage between the computers and your space is to be avoided. Worked great; computers in the closet were completely inaudible more than a foot from the cable port.

    1. Re:Interesting use of foam... by pipingguy · · Score: 1


      On the other hand, being able to hear what the mechanical bits inside are doing can help diagnose an upcoming problem (unusual HDD or fan noises, for example).

      But beware and listen very closely. I had one of those drive caddies that was empty but still plugged into the MB. Its fan was failing and causing system shutdowns (Danger, Danger, Will Robinson! Fan cooling nothing is failing!). I unplugged the not-in-use caddy from the motherboard and the problem went away. That was quite embarrassing after all the time and money I spent trying to fix a problem that I didn't investigate carefully enough.

  39. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by masklinn · · Score: 1

    Fanned, Zalman's 9500, Thermalright's XP-120, XP-90 and XP-90c are much better (especially if you put Nexus fans on the XPs, good performances for very low noise), but the best cooling/noise ratio is obtained with Tower "Fanless" rads: Scythe's Ninja or Thermalright's HR-01, with a Nexus 120mm at 7-9V (virtually silent).

    For the drives, if raw drives performances ain't an issue go with notebook (2.5") drives, for 3.5" go check SilentPCReview's drives guides.

    Graphic card, if you only use 2D then it's a perfect setup for fanless cooling.

    PSU, Seasonic's S12 430, 500 and 600 are among the bests you can find, they're extremely stable, reliable, silent and efficient (== the PSU is good for your computer, it doesn't make noise and it stays cool instead of heating your whole room and overheating the other components of the computer)

    In general, if you're looking for silent stuff just head over to SPCR and see what they say.

    --
    "The way we can tell it's C# instead of Haskell is because it's nine lines instead of two." -- wadler
  40. Spend Wisely by uberjoe · · Score: 1

    I spent the money and got good headphones, I can't hear my PC fans at all.

    --

    The days of the digital watch are numbered.

  41. Re:Why bother? by geekoid · · Score: 1

    Well, it's is actually a lot more complex then that, but I didn't want to write a 4 page white paper.

    John Cage refrence on /.? well done.

    I doubt any recorded music is the same as your voice.
    There will be some overlap, and clear system you will still be able to talk at a normal level and hear.
    Of course it requires a very good equalizer and someone who understands them, someone unlike you.

    Now I didn't even go into the Fletcher-Munson Curve and Perceived Loudness, clipping drop-out, or pink noise range.
    Ever go to a cinema with a high quality sounds system? every get annoyed at that guy 4 rows away for talking even though the movie sounds is loud?

    This isn't just playback, it also requires a good sound engineer that to have done the recording. Most music sold have a good sound engineers.
    During the 80's producer on coke would drive sound engineers crazy because they would want to increase the highs in the music because that thought it sounded better.

    OTOH, you made a John Cage reference, therefore you are right.

    --
    The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
  42. Don't shoot me for mentioning Dell but... by serutan · · Score: 1

    Last year I bought my 15-year-old daughter a cheapo Dell for $450 that is virtually silent. There is plastic ducting inside the case that seems to achieve better cooling with lower airflow. It's the quietest desktop I've ever not heard. Though not a performance monster, it isn't a bad machine to begin with, and I imagine somebody who knew their hardware could beef up the specs for a lot less than $2500, and no foam.

    Just saying.

  43. there's another option by Snick^ · · Score: 1

    Buy a gaming console. I can't hear my Xbox360 at 2 feet unless the dvdrom spins up.

  44. Ah, The Beauty of being Deaf... by hvatum · · Score: 3, Funny

    I never mess with any of this silent PC stuff. I've got a Geforce 7800GTX paired with a Athlon X2 Oc'd to 260 FSB. For 80mm cooling I've got five Vantec Tornado Ex Fans all stuck on double 12v lines, each pushes about 100 CFM. As a sidemount I decided to put a Delta "The Extreme" 120mm Ulra-high CFM fan, this bad-boy is rated at 260 CFM and 62 dBA when on full speed.

    The smaller fans are each 56dBA - and an old sleeve bearing fan is apparently making a really loud screaching noise. My cat and dog don't like to sit in the same room but it's better that way, no dog hairs get sucked in.

    The four way Raptor WD360GD 10,000 RPM RAID-5 setup isn't exactly quiet either. :)

    --
    Netbooks, they come with Linux or a $3 copy of Windows. Either way, Microsoft loses.
  45. DUH? by Jeff+DeMaagd · · Score: 1

    Ear plugs and head phones can be uncomfortable too.

    I've seen several computers where they are literally the loudest device in a house short of a sound system, and it doesn't need to be that way. It doesn't even cost much to improve sound if you are conscious of the audible impact of component choices. A little bit of foam, a few adjustments here and there, sometimes costing a little bit more money, all without resorting to anything as drastic as drowning out the entire outside world.

  46. $100 water Cooling by Taimat · · Score: 1

    While nowhere close to silent, it still is very quite. The Kingwin Aquastar AS-3000(http://www.kingwin.com/pdut_detail.asp?Lin eID=&CateID=53&ID=249) is installed in my PC. P4 Northwood 3ghz, 2GB DDR400, and Nvidia 6600GT. The AS-3000 comes with water block for both CPU and GPU.. ANY cpu and gpu. DB sensor, and LCD on the front. Took my idle temp from 105f to 90f. and under load from 130f to 105f. Not a performance Water cooler, but for $100 us, a great addition in my opinion. External, or mounts internal in 2 - 5 1/4 bays. This unit has 2 fans inside moving air across radiator. not fanless, but quite.

    --
    The above comments are not guaranteed to make sense to anyone other than the author...
  47. Recording studio foam... by thedletterman · · Score: 1
    I know sound studios use a pyramid foam that's very similar to the foam used in hard drive packaging to remove ambient noise from recording sessions.

    Given the decent shape, material, and quantity of this foam that HDs are shipped in, I wonder if some strategical placing of this foam inside the box could produce a noticable effect on noise without any added cost?

    --
    Any fool can criticise, condemn, and complain, and most fools do. - Benjamin Franklin
  48. Missleading price. by JollyFinn · · Score: 1

    Similar noisy system wouldn't be more than 200$ cheaper. And thats under 10% off overall cost there.
    If you don't need more than 500W power supply, quiet system costs about 100$ more than noisy system.
    I picked Nexus breeze as my case, and nexus CPU cooler, over stock fan and thats all I needed to get quiet system.
    The breeze comes with preinstalled foam, and it has only slowly running 120mm fans, and quiet powersupply to begin with.
    Only thing missing here is how much more costs a quiet GFX card, since I don't do anything that needs fast gfx card so I'm still el cheapo gfx which don't need active cooling due low power consumption.

    --
    Emacs is good operating system, but it has one flaw: Its text editor could be better.
  49. Lets learn from the car stereo scene... by Coplan · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Before I started spending my spare cash on building computers, I used to compete in the automotive stereo scene. But now that I am into building computers AND I am into making music on those computers, I am very surprised at how many people don't look to the car stereo scene for advice. I'm guessing that the average geek doesn't think outside fo the PC-mod world. But just because something isn't marketed for computers, that doesn't mean it isn't usable. Dynamat and Killer Blue. Dynamat is thin, very dense, and it does wonders for sound dampening. Killer Blue is a spray-foam that works for areas where a sheet of rubbery stuff won't work. While dynamat does make a "PC" kit, the regular automotive stuff is cheaper and better. Dynamat also comes in several grades and thicknesses. You'll want a couple different types for different applications. Don't forget to put some between your fans and the case and between your power supply and the case. As for the Killer Blue, you won't need much of it. Some cases, you won't even need any. In my case, there's a plastic front and there's a lot of space between it and the case. I sprayed some of it in there - careful not to block any airflow around the fans. There are also some crevices at the corners where the Killer Blue was more appropriate as well. But the important thing about sound-proofing any case (especially aluminum cases) is the fact that you will increase heat in the case itself. Make sure you ventilate it properly. Use larger fans when possible. For that matter...start with a good case.

  50. Foaming the DUCT WORK???? by Coplan · · Score: 1

    There is absolutely no reason why you should put foam IN the ducts. Especially open-cell foam like that stuff. It will decrease airflow. And the last thing you want to do is decrease the cooling efficiency in the case.

  51. I see a lot of similarities here by KarmaOverDogma · · Score: 2, Informative

    My system is similar to yours. We may have read similar reviews.

    My stuff:

    01) I use a similar case: I chose the Antec P150 instead of the P180, because I use a more traditional airflow system, and never could get into the P180 design
    02) same motherboard: ASUS A8N-SLI Premium Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI ATX AMD
    03) probably the same memory: CORSAIR XMS 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered Dual Channel
    04) I use two Nexus 120 mm case fans, spun down using zalman fanmate 2 variable resistors to 35% normal speed (about 415 rpm)
    05) I use an IDE ATA-6 laptop hard drive (with an adaptor for the Mobo); 5400 rpm 80 gig. It's small but it's all I need.
    06) I use the stock Antec 440 watt PSU (despite the bad reviews on it, I've never had issues with it: b/c the fan speed is based on temp and power consumption, and my system is so low temp and power consuming, I can never hear the PSU fan, unless I put my ear up to it)
    07) fanless GPU: the GIGABYTE GV-NX66T128VP Geforce 6600GT
    08) I use a dual core AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ CPU
    09) Scythe SCNJ-1000 CPU Cooling Heatsink (this is where the 1st spun down 120mm fan is, the 2nd is at the back vent of the case, replacing the what-I-found-to-be fairly noisy tri-speed fan, even if it was 120mm)
    10) I use a simple Soundblaster Live! card (the card is three years old now) with the SPDIF/digital out for sound.
    11) LG 16X DVD±R DVD Burner 5X DVD-RAM drive: it supports dual layer and DVD-RAM (my favorite).
    12) A Hauppauge 980 ( WinTV-PVR-250 ) to watch and record TV

    I can *never* hear this system, since it's about 23 decibels, unless the room is completely quiet with no speakers on; then I can hear a "whoosh" of airflow. It doesnt have massive GPU power, but if I wanted that I would have sprung the $500.00 for a XFX PV-T71F-YDL9 GeForce 7900 GTX (650MHz) 512MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 card, with it's excellent heatsink and fan system. Since I'm not FPS gamer (never did like those kinds of games much), I passed on that expense.

    I didn't put any foam in (thought about it for while, though), since the sound deadening properties of the P150 were good enough, and the system is virtually silent anyway.

    I already had a DELL UltraSharp 2405FPW 24-inch Wide Aspect Flat Panel LCD Monitor, so that expense was out of the way. I read reviews at silentpcreview.com first, shopped in local retail stores, and then bought most components from Newegg.com (except the fans and fanmates from endpcnoise.com). The whole system cost me about $1,200.00, ($2,000 if you include the monitor) which I found reasonable, especially for an almost completely quiet system.

    Hope this helps anyone looking for a system out there,

    --
    uR iGn0ranc3, Their Power
  52. Here's how to do it for $900 by EvilNight · · Score: 1

    http://www.eqluclin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9977

    Decent $900 model assembled from Newegg without needing the foam. Even using the same caliber of components that they use in the linked article it would cost less than $2k and be far easier to assemble.

    --
    Hell is being intelligent in a world full of idiots.
  53. Sonata II case by CokeJunky · · Score: 1

    Just a few weeks ago I had to replace my computer, and I did it using the same case as the article, but I stuck to stock coolers and the like. It seemed awefully quiet right off the bat, but it really drove home just how nice it was to have a quiet computer when I was out of bed in the middle of the night getting baby formula, and I walked by my computer and wondered who bothered to turn it off. Funny thing was that when I looked under the desk, the soft blue case lights were bathing the floor with their glow. The house was quiet, there was no traffic, the furnace fan was not running, and the baby wasn't actually making any noise yet, and I actually could not here the computer over the sound of my own footsteps. I ended up moving it on top of my desk instead of hidden, so I could see the lights easily (and to get the cables off the ground -- baby is crawling these days).

    --
    More Caffeine. NOW
  54. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by fishbowl · · Score: 1

    Good info, thanks. I've been to SPCR many times, but I've always been frustrated, having to wade through endless reviews. I've wanted to just say "my budget is $X, and I want a PC that can run VST synths and effects and record, quiet enough to be in the same room with a condensor mic."

    So far, I've got the Antec Sonata, a Zalman 7000, on an ASUS P5P800, a fanless SVGA card (very hard to find those!), Samsung SP drive, and it's pretty good, but it's nowhere near quiet enough to use in the same room when recording classical piano and flute (which is my application). Right now, I think the biggest problem is the PSU on the Sonata, but I can also hear the Zalman fan unless I crank it down too low for the CPU (a 3.0G P4). I can even hear the air going through the intake on the Sonata!

    I know I should move the PC out of the room, but in order to do that, I'd need 10m USB and VGA cables, and I'd also have to move my mixer rack away from the piano, which would be extremely awkward. I'm tired of throwing good money after bad in pursuit of a quiet enough music PC. It's frustrating enough that I'm looking into dedicated multitrack recorders even though that means giving up a *lot* of flexibility. I suppose I could move house or remodel my music room or build an enclosure with an isolated heat exchange, but I'd be happiest with just a quiet (not necessarily *silent*) machine.

    I suspect that one person's "quiet" might not be another's.

    --
    -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  55. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by fishbowl · · Score: 1


    >Why don't you put the powerfull PC in another room, and use a less powerfull (and quiter) one
    > next to the piano and use VNC.

    Way too much latency, and too much a Rube Goldberg for my tastes.

    Due to my audio interface, I need about 1.5 meters between the rack with my mixer and the PC. If I could find 10m VGA and USB cables, I could sort of work with that, although it would be annoying.

    >Maybe you can use an mac mini?

    Way too slow for my application, and while I love my Powerbook, I want a PC for this.

    I'm really close to what I need already. It's just that the noise of the Antec Sonata PSU and the Zalman 7000 are loud enough to be distracting and to ruin recordings. Even when I moved the machine into a closet I could hear it in the high freq range.

    My application is to use the PC as a soft-synth and recorder, and my musical style is classical piano and flute. If I use a mic with this PC, it shows up on the recording as a very audible wash in the mid-low freqs (the intake on the Sonata, and the 120mm case fan, and the PSU fan) and a whine in the high freqs (the Zalman, and surprisingly, not my disc drive.) I think I should be able to do much better, but I'm tired of buying things that are supposed to be quiet and discovering otherwise.

    --
    -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  56. dBA meter? by dramaley · · Score: 1

    Lately i have become quite interested in quiet computers. One thing i don't have is a device to measure sound levels. Any idea where to get such a thing? I probably wouldn't use it terribly often, so a simple and cheap decibel meter would probably be better than a lab quality one.

    --
    ----- "I'm still sane on three planets and two moons."
  57. Re:ANTEC Sonata Case by masklinn · · Score: 1

    recording classical piano and flute

    Ouch.

    You really need silence there, and not that many perfs. Go for a notebook drive and a tower rad. If possible, you should also switch the CPU for an Athlon64, a Turion64 or a Core Solo/Duo, halving the heat output of the CPU goes a long way towards silencing it.

    --
    "The way we can tell it's C# instead of Haskell is because it's nine lines instead of two." -- wadler
  58. Thermal Dynamics!? by H01ym0ses · · Score: 1

    Umm... pardon me for being scientific but foam as a whole is an insulator. PC's main combatant is heat.... I understand the need for noise reduction but why would you put an insulator in an item that has severe issues with heat? I'm sure the 20-50dB difference is nice but why risk a system failure or system burn out on a bit of noise? If any of the major fans in the system fail you could be buying another CPU/HDD memory or video card in short time. If you want quiet. Aluminum case double walled with plastic line and yes Insulated panels. true it is insulated but the aluminum is a natural heat sink since it is double layered the aluminum will help to transfer some of he excess heat. Water cooler. they are cheap enough now and the pump noise is next to NIL. you can even go as far as replacing the video heatsink/fan with water block cooling. now ports on the system face all ports out the bottom and intake from the front. sounds weird but think about it. Heat rises anyway so the down force if you have a carpeted or padded room will help with the noise. Powersupply go with the ANTEC fanless model and that should remedy all the issues you have. I'm guessing at this point short of some 10k WD raptor or scsi drives over 10k the system will be nearly silent regardless. Some still fear a liquid running around an electronic device and I sympathize with you. its all a matter of what degree of noise you will tolerate. Mine sounds like a freight train derailing in a firework factory during a new years day parade.... so as you can guess noise isn't an issue. (OC CPU requires some compromises).

  59. noise by erdraug · · Score: 1

    I own four pcs atm - weird thing is the most noisy one is my laptop. It was really, really cheap, and the via nehemiah cpuis supposed not to overheat but there are two fans on this thing and the cheap hard drive just ROARS and i'm not talking about the dvd whet it gets spinning...

    The least noisy pc i ever owned is this 486 by zenith, still works btw. The thing has no fan on the cpu and the power supplu one is completely inaudible - the sony cdrom i stuffed on it is noiseless too, even when spinning at a whopping (sic) 4x

    There are two ways to see things imho: either be reminiscent of "good old times when hardware quality was better and people used 14 screws for a mobo and 6 for a floppy drive", or realise that kinetic energy usually is accompanied by heat and/or noise and that "quicker stuff" will most probably mean "hotter and noisier stuff"

    (Imho again) as long as HDDs have moving parts and are portable storage medium is a spinning disc (be it cd or dvd) noise and heat will have to be tolerated. Why can't we make 40gig hdds from the same stuff usb pendrives are made of again?