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Panasonic's New LED Bulbs Shine For 19 Years

Mike writes "As lighting manufacturers phase out the incandescent bulb, and CFLs look set to define the future of lighting, Panasonic recently unveiled a remarkable 60-watt household LED bulb that they claim can last up to 19 years (if used 5-1/2 hours a day). With a lifespan 40 times longer than their incandescent counterparts, Panasonic's new EverLed bulbs are the most efficient LEDs ever to be produced. They are set to debut in Japan on October 21st. Let's hope that as the technology is refined their significant cost barrier will drop — $40 still seems pretty pricey for a light bulb, even one that promises to save $23 a year in energy costs."

710 comments

  1. But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    incandescents have the advantage of putting off a lot of heat, if you're going to use one as a cheap heat lamp and light provider.

    1. Re:But still... by fractoid · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Why the hell is this offtopic? It's true - this hippie-frenzy focus on non-incandescent light sources is idiotic. Any time you're running any kind of active heating, the thermal inefficiency of incandescent lights becomes a nonissue because the heat output is not wasted. And with the usage cycle they're talking about, a $0.90 incandescent bulb should last at least 2 years. While I agree that it's nice to see LED lighting starting to measure up to the good old bulb-and-tungsten-wire approach, I don't think there's much concrete reason to move away from incandescents in cold climates. Hot climates, there's a small but measurable advantage.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    2. Re:But still... by Patch86 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      So incandescent bulbs are a bad thing in most of the world for about a third of the year (summer) and in some of the world most of the year. If you happen to be running air-conditioning at the same time as an incandescent bulb, you're just pumping money out of the window.

      Not to mention the fact that having a heat source 6 inches from your ceiling is generally not the most efficient way to heat a room. It makes far more sense to save the energy wasted from the bulb, and spend it in an efficient central heating system instead, where strategically placed radiators and vents can put the heat where it's actually needed.

    3. Re:But still... by Kagura · · Score: 5, Funny

      The problem is the weight. They're made of led.

    4. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Small but measurable? There are only a few metrics for light bulb, and this thing improves significantly on two: efficiency and longevity. As far as light bulbs go, LED is BIG deal, a logical and significant progression of technology, with or without hippie circle jerk.

      Heat output of incandescent is decidedly a waste because light bulbs are used to generate light, not heat. Even in places with cold winter, you may not want your lighting fixtures to generate heat, and once summer rolls around you definitely don't want your lighting fixtures pumping out heat.

    5. Re:But still... by poopdeville · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Yup. A halogen desk lamp makes a great accessory during Winter. It is more efficient than using a CFL and oil heating. I don't typically need to warm up my whole office, just the place I sit. The light also looks better than CFLs, or even regular incandescent bulbs. And halogen lamps are both hotter and 40% more efficient than regular incandescent bulbs.

      --
      After all, I am strangely colored.
    6. Re:But still... by Fred_A · · Score: 1

      incandescents have the advantage of putting off a lot of heat, if you're going to use one as a cheap heat lamp and light provider.

      *And* you can melt cheese on them !

      Of course since most of the energy put into an incandescent gets turned into heat whether you want it to or not, you might as well get a dedicated device that would likely perform better and only do so when you need it to.

      --

      May contain traces of nut.
      Made from the freshest electrons.
    7. Re:But still... by EsbenMoseHansen · · Score: 1

      And with the usage cycle they're talking about, a $0.90 incandescent bulb should last at least 2 years.

      Not likely. 2*365*5.5h=4015h. As I recall, incandescent bulbs last about 800-1000h.

      --
      Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as false, and by rulers as useful.
    8. Re:But still... by jabuzz · · Score: 2, Informative

      Where I live the norm is to have thermostatically controlled gas central heating. Also the difference between summer and winter daylight hours is significant. Air conditioning is extremely rare in domestic properties anywhere in the U.K.

      This means in the summer I hardly use artificial lighting, until late at night where the heat output of an incandescent light bulb can make a noticeable difference in taking the late night chill off a room.

      In the autumn and winter, I have the central heating on when it is dark because it is cold, and as it thermostatically controlled the heat from the incandescent light bulbs means my central heating works a little less. If I replace these with energy efficient bulbs it will just make my central heating work harder.

      The advantage of any energy efficient light bulb where I live is going to me marginal at best, and potentially negative when you take the manufacturing of the bulb into account.

      Just because you happen to live somewhere where all this is not the case does not mean I don't.

      I have saved more carbon output by insulating my house properly and installing a modern condensing boiler than I could ever save from switching to energy efficient light bulbs by several orders of magnitude. If every house in the UK was brought up to the same standard of insulation as mine is now we could easily meet our Kyoto targets doing just that.

    9. Re:But still... by Wrath0fb0b · · Score: 1

      So incandescent bulbs are a bad thing in most of the world for about a third of the year (summer) and in some of the world most of the year. If you happen to be running air-conditioning at the same time as an incandescent bulb, you're just pumping money out of the window.

      (1) If you are using your electric heater at the same time as an incandescent bulb, the bulb is effectively free. Up here in New England, that season is 2-3 times longer than AC season and, not coincidentally, has almost twice as much darkness that needs to be lit up.

      Even if we assume (incorrectly) that there is the same light usage in winter and summer, the marginal increase from paying double during the 2 months (maybe 3 during a bad summer) of AC are more than canceled out by 6 months where the bulb is redundant with the heater.

      (2) Regardless of climate, most of the air-conditioning demand comes between 3PM and 6PM, not really peak hours for using any artificial lighting. Maybe for the basement dwellers, but their rooms are nice and cool anyway.

      The case for CFLs just isn't that compelling in a house where more than 50% of my annual electrical bill is electric heaters.

    10. Re:But still... by xouumalperxe · · Score: 1

      incandescents have the advantage of putting off a lot of heat, if you're going to use one as a cheap heat lamp and light provider.

      I'd rather my space heater didn't waste energy by turning it into light, thank you very much.

    11. Re:But still... by Hadlock · · Score: 1

      Don't worry, your space heater is still 99% efficient!
       
      Even ceramic heaters aren't 100% efficient, there is some radiation produced in the visible spectrum, the red "heat" of the coils (right above IR)

      --
      moox. for a new generation.
    12. Re:But still... by Eunuchswear · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Even if we assume (incorrectly) that there is the same light usage in winter and summer, the marginal increase from paying double during the 2 months (maybe 3 during a bad summer) of AC are more than canceled out by 6 months where the bulb is redundant with the heater

      Canceled out? Please review how subtraction works. You mean reduced, not cancelled.

      If you replace your incandescents by CFL's or LED's you'll produce less heat from your lighting, so in winter you'll need to run the heater more. However the total electricity use will be the same.

      In summer (summer being defined as the months, weeks or days the heating is not being run) the heat from the incandescent will be wasted, and if you have air conditioning will make your air conditioning run harder.

      The case for CFLs just isn't that compelling in a house where more than 50% of my annual electrical bill is electric heaters.

      Things will get better if you dump your electric heaters. They are expensive and there are shitloads of better systems available.

      --
      Watch this Heartland Institute video
    13. Re:But still... by N1AK · · Score: 4, Insightful

      I live in a high energy efficiency property in the UK as well, we moved to energy efficient bulbs around 18 months ago and have noticed a sufficient decrease in energy use to believe it was worthwhile.

      Obviously I don't know nearly enough about your situation to advise you, but I am not persuaded that heat produced due to inefficiency of lightbulbs or other devices is an economical source of heating.

    14. Re:But still... by Wrath0fb0b · · Score: 1

      Canceled out? Please review how subtraction works. You mean reduced, not cancelled.

      The marginal increase in cost from the cooling is canceled out by the heating gains. That is, for every extra dollar I spend cooling heat that I produced with the light bulbs, I save at least an extra dollar off my heating bill.

      If you replace your incandescents by CFL's or LED's you'll produce less heat from your lighting, so in winter you'll need to run the heater more. However the total electricity use will be the same.

      Correct. Unfortunately, CFLs and LEDs are much more expensive upfront. Since I get approximately zero savings for 6 months of the year, the time to recoup is doubled (or, with a fixed horizon, the price differential at the critical point is halved).

      Things will get better if you dump your electric heaters. They are expensive and there are shitloads of better systems available.

      Again, large upfront costs and smaller continued costs. It would cost a small fortune to replace our 1950s oil boiler with something vaguely modern.

      Oh, and I rent, so tearing stuff out is not an option.

    15. Re:But still... by miro+f · · Score: 1

      you're looking at it the wrong way, all heaters are 100% efficient! eventually...

      --
      being vague is almost as cool as doing that other thing...
    16. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Actually, the heat isn't totally useful.
      Y'see, lightbulbs have this tendency to like the ceiling, and the ceiling is way the hell up there.
      Now what did science class tell you about heat? Yeah that's right, it rises.

      "Heat"-bulbs are only good if they are below a floor for the heat to rise up to it.
      Convective air currents from bulbs are extremely low since it generally heats the top of a room only.

      I'd rather have a microwave bulb to be honest, much warmer.

    17. Re:But still... by gadget+junkie · · Score: 1

      I have saved more carbon output by insulating my house properly and installing a modern condensing boiler than I could ever save from switching to energy efficient light bulbs by several orders of magnitude. If every house in the UK was brought up to the same standard of insulation as mine is now we could easily meet our Kyoto targets doing just that.

      Right you are. It might just be another framing , in that since the price of a LED bulb is small, while not insignificant, our minds are not up to grasping the math involved istinctively.

      Mind you, as soon as you sit down in front of a spreadsheet, numbers take on a life of their own.

      1. one Led lamp = 40$

      2. one incandescent lamp = 1 $

      3. reported increase in efficiency="That's 40 times longer than incandescent bulbs. "[source: TFA]


      4. result= par for the course.

      essentially, the bet is that electricity costs would go up sequentially faster than LED bulb replacement costs, over 20 years. my first computer 20 years ago was an 8088, and I ooohed and aaaaahed at the latest advance: Color screen. So no, i do not think I am up to predicting these kind of things over those time frames.


      One more thing irks me tough: spectrum distribution still favour incandescent lamps over LED or high efficiency lamps,i.e. the perceived "quality" of light is still better in incandescent lamps.

      --
      "If a boss demands loyalty, give him integrity. But if he demands integrity, give him loyalty." (John Boyd, 1927-1997)
    18. Re:But still... by wisty · · Score: 1

      Well, if you EVER need to use an AC, the LEDs are better.

      And if you use gas, wood, oil or coal powered heating (which burns the fuel on site at 100% efficiency) and coal or gas electricity then you will save some power. Maybe. (Transport of heating fuel is a factor, I guess).

    19. Re:But still... by TheGreenNuke · · Score: 5, Funny

      Agreed, also why that whole led zeppelin idea never took off.

    20. Re:But still... by xaxa · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Your gas central heating is a much cheaper way to heat your house compared to incandescent bulbs.

      Electricity is about 10-14p/kWh, and gas about 3p/kWh. Even with old heating it's still cheaper; my new condensing boiler is 85% efficient and was probably quite cheap (I rent, and everything else in the flat looks cheap), yours may well be even better.

      I agree extra insulation is much more useful though. I'd like to see the government take the Green Party's economy-stimulation suggestion up: subsidise adding insulation to houses. Some incentive for landlords to add insulation would be good too, but I think this might happen with the home rating thing.

    21. Re:But still... by stupid_is · · Score: 1

      They do for some categories of household, and have done for the last decade. I took advantage of this in my first house to get essentially free rolls of loft insulation (as there was no way I'd pay someone to just go up there and unroll it, so I used the entire subsidy on the insulation, rather than an installation service).

      Here's the current qualification criteria - looks like they now only target low income households

      --
      -- Intelligence is soluble in alcohol
    22. Re:But still... by roguetrick · · Score: 2, Insightful

      You save nothing on your heating bill. You just don't LOSE money from the heat provided. There's a big goddamn difference in those two concepts. Generally speaking, you'd spend the same amount of electricity if you are heating your home regardless if you used LED or Incandescent. If the temperature is comfortable outside and inside, you are wasting money heating your home by a small amount. If you are using AC, you are wasting money at TWICE the rate.

      --
      -The world would be a better place if everyone had a hoverboard
    23. Re:But still... by roguetrick · · Score: 1

      For those pedantic, I know this isn't as easy as "twice the rate" and "lose nothing." You get the picture.

      --
      -The world would be a better place if everyone had a hoverboard
    24. Re:But still... by borizz · · Score: 1

      It can't give off more heat and be more efficient at the same time. However, it is placed close to you so that helps :)

    25. Re:But still... by gabebear · · Score: 1
      IF you need both heat and light, incandescent are still great. LED bulbs are still too expensive to jump on, and there are plenty of negative side-effects of CFLs that have put me off switching.
      • The mercury vapor in the bulb is an issue. The 3-5mg of mercury in the bulb isn't a problem if you recycle it or if you break the bulb and let it dissipate to safe levels, but it's still not good.
      • The mercury released while manufacturing CFLs
      • In the US(where I live) we manufacture incandescent bulbs, all CFLs are shipped from China. This means more diesel used to ship the bulbs.
      • The harmonic power factor is terrible. Most CFLs have a power factor of around 0.5. This won't raise your bills, but you are actually using twice the rated Watts.
      • A pack of 4 incandescent bulbs is $0.75 at Walmart and I pay $0.08462/kWh after all taxes with my monthly bill totaling ~$40. The savings are not significant.
      • Opportunity cost. LEDs are still improving by leaps and bounds. Haitz's Law says that LEDs improve by a factor of 10 every 10 years, and the law has held for a long time.
    26. Re:But still... by Eunuchswear · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Canceled out? Please review how subtraction works. You mean reduced, not cancelled.

      The marginal increase in cost from the cooling is canceled out by the heating gains. That is, for every extra dollar I spend cooling heat that I produced with the light bulbs, I save at least an extra dollar off my heating bill.

      Wah? You're losing me here.

      Using silly made up numbers, assuming conservation of energy and double entry book-keeping:

      With incandescents in winter:

      In winter your heating bill is, say, $100.
      Your lighting bill is, say, $100. $90 of that is heat, $10 is light.

      So your electricity bill is $200, $190 for heat and $10 for light.

      With CFL or LED or whatever in winter:

      Your heating bill is now $190 ('cos the CFL/LED is not giving you the heat it used to)
      Your lighting bill is now $10.

      So your electricity bill is $200, $190 for heat and $10 for light.

      In summer, with incandescents, your lighting bill is $100 and your air conditioning bill is $190.

      In summer with CFL/LED's your lighting bill is $10 and your air conditioning bill is $100.

      Like I said, silly made up numbers, and you can possibly correctly claim:

      Correct. Unfortunately, CFLs and LEDs are much more expensive upfront. Since I get approximately zero savings for 6 months of the year, the time to recoup is doubled (or, with a fixed horizon, the price differential at the critical point is halved).

      But that has nothing to do with your initial claim that the heating effect of incandescent bulbs in winter canceled out their electricity savings all year round.

      Again, large upfront costs and smaller continued costs. It would cost a small fortune to replace our 1950s oil boiler with something vaguely modern.

      Wah? You said you had electric heat! Is electricity cheaper than fuel oil in New England?

      Oh, and I rent, so tearing stuff out is not an option.

      But it's so easy to get a low rate loan to buy, and property is such a great investment!

      --
      Watch this Heartland Institute video
    27. Re:But still... by smoker2 · · Score: 1
      Are you being deliberately ignorant ? The point is not just that they last 40 times as long, but they also use much less electricity. The result is NOT "par for the course". The result is $40 < $480 [1* led = $40 is less than (20 * incandescents @$1) + (20 * $23/year)]. Even if the incandescents lasted the same time, you're are still paying $23/year more by using them.

      As for the post you replied to, well he's just an idiot. It's not an either / or situation. Of course a system that is designed to heat a whole house will save more money/carbon than a device intended to light one room. Does that mean unless the savings are greater than X we should ignore them, even though the number of lightbulbs vastly outnumbers the number of boilers ? Judging by that and previous posts, I imagine that lots of people save money on heating by huddling around a 60W light bulb. Unlikely. And the heating bill savings by using incandescents really are negligible, unless you are one of those fools who has 10 100W bulbs burning all the time, even in empty rooms.

      I say this speaking as someone who has no heating other than a small server, and no light other than 1 fluorescent bulb. I found my biggest saving on electricity came from buying a new fridge. Cost £250, savings per day £0.50

    28. Re:But still... by smoker2 · · Score: 1

      According to this they still offer subsidies to ALL.

    29. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The heat from incandescent bulbs is an important part of my heating my house. I have a nice bright lamp on my desk that's enough to keep my little home office warm and bright. I can turn the heat down for the rest of the house. And during the cold months in New Hampshire, it's also dark -- so these bulbs are great. When summer's here, I rarely need the extra light, so it doesn't get turned on. If I had CFLs, I'd need to heat the house to keep my office warm. And NO, a space heater would probably burn the house down.

      CFL's suck. They're dim and the color is terrible. I use them in closets. The jury's still out on LED bulbs as far as I'm concerned.

      I'm going to buy a truck load of lightbulbs while I can. My guess is that the legislators that passed this bill have done so already, or life in sunny warm places. Nobody who uses CFLs would impose them on everyone.

    30. Re:But still... by Muad'Dave · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Except that if you're using a heat pump vs resistance heating, the unit's SEER value comes into play. My units are SEER 13, so every unit of energy it takes to run the beast pumps 13 units of heat around.

      So using incandescent lights for heat actually wastes money - that Watt going into the bulb could be used to provide 13 Watts of heat instead of just 1 (0.9, actually).

      --
      Tiller's Rule: Never use a word in written form that you've only heard and never read. You will end up looking foolish.
    31. Re:But still... by Muad'Dave · · Score: 1

      He didn't say it gave off more heat, he said it was 'hotter'. It runs at a much higher operating temp, so the reflector in the fixture and its proximity to him (as you said) give the perception of it giving off more heat.

      --
      Tiller's Rule: Never use a word in written form that you've only heard and never read. You will end up looking foolish.
    32. Re:But still... by mdsolar · · Score: 1

      If light from your light bulb escapes out the window, you are heating the outdoors. If it reflects to space, it may never come into thermal equilibrium with anything. So, not quite 100% even though that is a good approximation.

    33. Re:But still... by gtbritishskull · · Score: 4, Insightful

      This assumes that you are using a resistance heater. If you use a heat pump (usually a COP of around 3-4) then you are still using extra power. (Every extra watt that you use with an incandescent could have done the same as between 1/3 to 1/4 of a watt with a heat pump).

    34. Re:But still... by gtbritishskull · · Score: 1

      SEER is a made-up number (I think btu/watt or something crazy). You want COP, which is usually around 3-4.

    35. Re:But still... by andymadigan · · Score: 1

      > Things will get better if you dump your electric heaters. They are expensive and there are shitloads of better systems available.

      I can't speak for New England, but in upstate New York that isn't always the case. The heaters themselves may cost more, but running them can be much cheaper than gas depending on where you live. We run primarily off nuclear and hydro. Ontario's entire baseload is hydro and nuclear, and it's 2x their off-peak usage.

      Nevertheless, it's true that CFLs always work out to an energy savings vs. incandescent. The heat generated is not "free". If you're using an electric heat system, it has the exact same cost as the heater, except that the heat is probably not distributed very well.

      --
      The right to protest the State is more sacred than the State.
    36. Re:But still... by eclectro · · Score: 1

      incandescents have the advantage of putting off a lot of heat

      Because you need to use your easybake oven??

      --
      Take the cheese to sickbay, the doctor should see it as soon as possible - B'Elanna Torres, "Learning Curve"
    37. Re:But still... by T+Murphy · · Score: 5, Funny

      If you are using AC, you are wasting money at TWICE the rate.

      Note to self: never post AC. Too expensive.

    38. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      so does my crt monitor..

    39. Re:But still... by datapharmer · · Score: 1

      I don't know of any energy conversion process that is 100% efficient, and I can tell you for certain that burning gas, wood, or coal is no where near 100% efficiency. In fact the better equipment most electrical companies have for combustion still provides a better efficiency even after transmission loss and conversion then you could achieve at home.

      --
      Get a web developer
    40. Re:But still... by AvitarX · · Score: 1

      Do they make electric boilers?

      I've only seen them in Gas or Oil. Of course if you use a lot of freestanding radiators too, then there is electric heat (I decided heating the house to 63, and then using radiators where I am is the most effective way to heat my house (cost wise), but I could be wrong).

      Electric resistance heat is definitely the most expensive, but I guess in apartments it can make sense.

      --
      Wow, sent an e-mail as suggested when clicking on "use classic" banner, and got a fast response that addressed my msg
    41. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Me too. I've been using CFL's for almost twenty years, and I've come to the conclusion that they are a worse idea that using Edison's incandescent lighting. Here's why:

      - CFLs have a power factor of around 0.5, which means they use twice as much power as rated. For example a 15 watt CFL uses 15 watts in your home, but then it uses another 15 watts at the central power plant due to the need to "rebalance" the power and restore the PF to 1.0. TOTAL == 30 volt-amps burned

      - New technologies have allowed folks like GE to build 60 watt incandescants that only use 30 watts while still providing the same brightness. So the net usage is the same as the CFL. No need to abandon the old bulbs.

      - CFLs *hate* heat. CFLs hate cold. CFLs hate humidity. CFLs hate dimmers. In practical terms this means CFLs can not be used in 80-90% of present fixtures. I used them in my upside-down ktichen lights - they died 2 months later. I used them outside in my porch light - it worked fine until the temperature dropped below zero, and then refused to light. I used them in my bathroom, and after a shower the humidity killed half of them. I bought a so-called "dimmable CFL" which died 5 minutes after I installed it in my living room dimmer switch. Instead of saving money, I'm wasting it on tons of dead CFLs.

      - CFLs hate being turned on and off. Rapid cycling makes them die as quick as an incandescent bulb. So you've spent 5 times as much for a bulb than doesn't last any longer.

      - CFLs have a warm-up time. Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing. Turn it on to go down the basement stairs - and you can't see the steps because it's still too dim (a safety hazard).

      I have about 20 CFLs in my home.
      But I'm gradually phasing them out and
      replacing them with 25 or 40 watt incandescents.

      I tried to do my part to be green over the last two decades, but it's just not working. The CFLs are not the solution to reduced lighting expenses. Perhaps these new half-power incandescents from GE will provide an answer, or the new LED lights, but CFLs are not it.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    42. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Getting rid of windows would be the best energy saver. Windows leak heat like sieves. Take a look at this image - the house on the right is the best we can build, and yet it still has the fatal flaw of windows leaking energy : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Passivhaus_thermogram_gedaemmt_ungedaemmt.png

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    43. Re:But still... by Jedi+Alec · · Score: 1

      I'll stick with natural gas for heating, thank you. At 10 times the amount of energy for about 2.4 times the price of electricity over here it's a wee bit more cost effective ;-)

      --

      People replying to my sig annoy me. That's why I change it all the time.
    44. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      JESUS on a popsicle stick! (Yes I watch lots of Penn&Teller).

      We're only talking about ~30 watts difference per incandescent replaced by CFL. The central air conditioner or heater is somewhere around 10,000 watts. The bulb difference is just "noise" compared to how much the central unit uses.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    45. Re:But still... by RicktheBrick · · Score: 1

      Can one put a led in a motion detector and have it work? Most cfl will not work in them. How many minutes must the light be off before it is economic to turn it off? If one leaves a room for less than 20 minutes and than returns and turns the light back on than if the room is lighted by a cfl than it would be better to leave it on. Cfl suffer from wear and tear from being turned off and on. This is especially true for a family of four or more with a single bathroom. It might be better to turn the light on and leave it on until the last person goes to bed. It takes a significant more energy to produce a cfl than a incandescent so if a cfl fails it takes a long time of savings to make up that difference.

    46. Re:But still... by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Only the completely insane would try to heat with electric heat. That is the most expensive way to heat just short of burning money.

      Buy a real heating system. And then after that buy insulation and good windows and window treatments. Doing that will pay it's self back in as little as 2 years. I got a payback on my insulation and windows in 6 months here in michigan.

      Live in an apartment? then get plexiglass cut to fit your windows for the winter and buy energy blinds. you can also insulate the walls by hanging quilts or blankets on the walls, although 70% of the heat lost is in the ceiling. If your landlord is more of a slumlord, your best bet is to move.

      Heck I can show you how to make a solar heat collector that will work in a south facing apartment window. I can make a decent one for $3.00 in spraypaint and cardboard!

      Do something other than throwing your money away on electric heaters.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    47. Re:But still... by slim · · Score: 1

      Well, if you EVER need to use an AC, the LEDs are better.

      I think the GP is British. Note that domestic AC is a very rare thing to have in the UK. You might wish you had one maybe 5 days of the year, if there's a heatwave.

      OTOH, it's not unusual to have an electric fan, and they cost money to run too.

    48. Re:But still... by Lumpy · · Score: 2, Interesting

      If the cost of lighting your house is $90.00 for lighting only, please stop trying to replicate the surface of the sun lighting conditions in your home.

      running 10- 60 watt bulbs 24/7 for 1 month costs LESS than $50.00 US. most lights are on for less than 3 hours at a time on average.

      $90.00 for lighting only is so absurd for a home it's silly.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    49. Re:But still... by edmicman · · Score: 2, Informative

      After we bought our house I planned on replacing the vanity lights in the bathroom with CFLs as the current ones burned out. Part of it was that my wife complained about the bathroom getting too hot; I figured the less heat given off by the CFLs would help out there, too, plus if they lasted longer everybody would win. Well, I replaced two of them and they lasted maybe 6 months max - I'm sure the humidity from the shower wrecked them. Here's an application where they could save energy, and their cool-running would actually be a benefit, and they are completely useless in that environment. I'm back to using the incandescent variety in the bathroom now, and their heat-producing qualities will help in the winter, too.

    50. Re:But still... by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      no. nor can they be in dimmers or anything else.

      This is the Crappy part, most Motion detectors and dimmers were made half assed and used a parasitic load to get power backwards through the bulb. to further it along, most electricians wired home WRONG (ran power to load and only 2 wires back to the switch) in the past 100 years, so you can easily fix this.

      if you built a new home and used commercial grade motion detectors, you can get it to work right with LED and CFL. but most existing homes are built crappy and most motion detectors and dimmers that costless than $100.00 are also low grade dog food so they will not work as well.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    51. Re:But still... by jackharrer · · Score: 1

      Getting rid of Windows, and getting rid of Windows... And what you want to replace it with? Linux?

      --

      "an experienced, industrious, ambitious, and often, quite often, picturesque liar" - Mark Twain
    52. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 5, Insightful

      - CFLs have a power factor of around 0.5, which means they use twice as much power as rated. For example a 15 watt CFL uses 15 watts in your home, but then it uses another 15 watts at the central power plant due to the need to "rebalance" the power and restore the PF to 1.0. TOTAL == 30 volt-amps burned

      Except that the power company puts PF correction in far sooner than the power plant, and while it doubles the amps for wire resistance calculations(until it hits the power company's correction equipment), it actually doesn't double the wattage used. More like 5-10%. They build PFC in pretty much as standard on high quality high efficiency computer power supplies, why would you think the power company couldn't do the same? And there are better bulbs out there with active PFC.

      - New technologies have allowed folks like GE to build 60 watt incandescants that only use 30 watts while still providing the same brightness. So the net usage is the same as the CFL. No need to abandon the old bulbs.

      Neat tech, but like I said, a 15 watt bulb with a PF of .5 doesn't mean it's using 30 watts. So the CFL still has a leg up of aobut 50% more light per watt than the new higher efficiency bulbs.

      - CFLs *hate* heat. CFLs hate cold. CFLs hate humidity. CFLs hate dimmers.

      I have CFLS in my unheated north dakota garage. the 12 watters start a little slower in the winter, but are still going strong. I have a 23 watt(100watt equiv) in my bathroom. It's been there for over a year, hasn't quit yet. Not instant full brightness - but I like that for those midnight trips. I don't have a dimmer in my house, but it's a five minute job to swap the dimmer out with a CFL compatible one(remember to get a dimmable CFL).

      It sounds like you're buying cheap bulbs, and your dimmer is probably the old resistance type, not the newer electronic pulse type.

      - CFLs hate being turned on and off. Rapid cycling makes them die as quick as an incandescent bulb. So you've spent 5 times as much for a bulb than doesn't last any longer.

      In 6 years the only CFL to die on me was from being dropped.

      - CFLs have a warm-up time. Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing. Turn it on to go down the basement stairs - and you can't see the steps because it's still too dim (a safety hazard).

      For me it takes longer for my eyes to adjust to the new light level, open the book/paper, whatever. The 100 watt equivalent in the bathroom has the longest start-up time, and even it is pretty much instant on, just at ~40-60 watt equivalnet for the first 10 seconds.

      If the stairs are too dim, put in a brighter bulb. Heck, I wonder where people like you are getting your slow starting CFLs from, because none of mine take that long. I have two incandescent bulbs left in closets, and the only reason they aren't CFLs yet is because they haven't died, and I use them too little to bother.

      I use a mix of GE and Sylvania bulbs, what are yours?

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    53. Re:But still... by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Most of decent output and manufacturing quality LED lamps cost around $80.00 for a Par30 that puts out 60 Watts of light using only 10 watts. Regular 40 Watt Edison bulbs can be had cheaply, around $25.00 each for a 40 Watt equivalent.

      The rub goes when you replace T8 florescent tubes. Those are $120.00 each and are a net loss unless you factor in replacement costs by hiring a guy to replace bulbs and ballasts.

      If you have a modern home that uses almost no old fashioned Edison bulbs and mostly Par20 and Par 30 cans as well as MR16 task lighting, your costs for LED retrofit skyrockets.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    54. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      I'll agree the parent was incorrect to say 100%, heat escapes in the exhaust gases, combustion isn't complete, etc...

      On the other hand, heating directly rather than using electricity from the power plant IS more efficient unless you're running a heat pump(and not always then). An electric power plant is only ~30% efficient, there's transmission losses, etc... While a *good* furnace can get 90% efficiency with those fuels, and 98% efficient with fuels like natural gas and propane.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    55. Re:But still... by Zarf · · Score: 1

      I swear they must have been high when they came up with that one.

      --
      [signature]
    56. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      If you use a heat pump (usually a COP of around 3-4) then you are still using extra power.

      It's still worse, I think. It also neglects to take into account that the majority of people in the world, especially those with serious heating needs, don't heat with electric at all, instead heat with alternative fuel sources that are cheaper per BTU. Direct heating with natural gas, propane, oil, even coal, wood, etc... is all cheaper than direct electric heat.

      Sure, you lose money slower in the winter with incandescents, but it's still a loss for most people. Not to mention the whole 'heat where you don't need it' part.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    57. Re:But still... by anthonyfk · · Score: 2, Informative

      No. The Mythbusters took a look at this; "starting" a CFL only takes as much energy as running one for 2 seconds. So, unless you'll be out and in the room again within 2 seconds, it's always better to turn them off.

    58. Re:But still... by famebait · · Score: 1

      Also, CRTs have the advantage of additional weight, if you're going to use one as a boat anchor as well as a computer display.

      --
      sudo ergo sum
    59. Re:But still... by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      Also, much of the world doesn't use electricity to heat with. In such places, even in the winter, the heat from a light bulb may be much less efficient than heat from your furnace.

    60. Re:But still... by kimvette · · Score: 2, Informative

      - CFLs have a warm-up time. Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing. Turn it on to go down the basement stairs - and you can't see the steps because it's still too dim (a safety hazard).

      For me it takes longer for my eyes to adjust to the new light level, open the book/paper, whatever. The 100 watt equivalent in the bathroom has the longest start-up time, and even it is pretty much instant on, just at ~40-60 watt equivalnet for the first 10 seconds.

      I have a light meter and have measured warm-up time of various CFLs. All the ones I had (six models from four brands) were at full brightness by a minute and a half. I've never seen one which didn't immediately put out enough light for reading.

      --
      The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    61. Re:But still... by Tony+Hoyle · · Score: 2, Insightful

      CFLs have a warm-up time. Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing

      1990 called.. it wants its CFLs back. Have you *really* actually used them or are you just making stuff up?

      I hear that on Slashdot a lot, and it's bunk. I've had the whole house on CFLs for years now and they light *instantly*. The only time I ever had one that needed to 'warm up' was one of the original Philips ones years ago.

      So you've spent 5 times as much for a bulb than doesn't last any longer

      CFLs are now the same price (and in some cases cheaper) than incandescents, unless you count the crappy bargain bucket ones that used to last about 3 days. I've still got a bunch I was sent free by the power company.. they only blow about once a year so I don't go through them fast enough.

    62. Re:But still... by clone53421 · · Score: 1

      Canceled out? Please review how subtraction works. You mean reduced, not cancelled.

      You mean canceled, not cancelled. Oh, and pedantry aside, I see no reason that "canceled" shouldn't be used. I've always used it to describe algebraic simplifications of the sort where Ax + N = Bx + Cy + N => Ax = Bx + Cy.

      --
      Alexander Peter Kristopeit bought his basement from his mommy for one dollar.
    63. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 0, Troll

      >>>he power company puts PF correction in far sooner than the power plant,

      It doesn't matter. The point is that a 15 watt CFL is actually using 30 volt-amps, so it's only saving half as much energy as a 60 volt-amp traditional bulb (and no energy savings versus GE's new advanced technology incandescents).

      >>>In 6 years the only CFL to die on me was from being dropped.

      I've had 6 bulbs die in just this past year. Three of them were cheap Lights of America bulbs, but the other 3 were Philips which is a reputable company. They died because of being used in upside-down kitchen fixtures. I opened the bulbs, and found that the electronics had been cooked (caps bulged and the internal electrolyte oozed out).

      >>>If the stairs are too dim, put in a brighter bulb

      Well I had a 40 watt bulb there. In order to get a bulb that equals that same brightness after initial turnon, I'd have to get a 120-watt-equivalent. So in terms of power we're talking about 40 volt-amps versus 60 volts-amps. Where's the energy savings?

      You see:

      This is why I don't like talking to eitehr Religious people or Envionmentalists. It's impossible to reason with them, because they are too busy hugging trees to bother to exercise the rational part of their brains. CFLS ARE FLAWED, AND I AM SICK AND TIRED OF WASTING MY MONEY ON THEM JUST TO WATCH THEM DIE EARLY. For you to sit there and act as if my genuine observatuions are sjust a bunch of bulsl;htio si an INSULT tom me. I'm a triple-degreed electrical engineer. Not an idiot. My observations have merit, and your casual dismissal of them is not in any way acceptable.

      I have wasted so much money on CFLs it's ridiculous.
      Instead of helping the environment, I'm filling it
      with dead bulbs that stopped working prematurely.

      This is a flawed technology.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    64. Re:But still... by MBGMorden · · Score: 1

      4015 doesn't sound that far off. My bedroom light never turns off - ever. It stays on while I sleep, when I'm away at work, etc. I don't like sleeping in the dark and don't like coming home to a dark room. Wasteful, yes, but in the grand scheme of things a single bulb doesn't make much difference to my power bill or the environment. I've long since switched to CFL bulbs (which in 5 years I've had to replace once), but back when I was using incandescent I was still getting 4-6 months per bulb before they died. That put the hours between 2800 and 4300. Now I'm not sure if the limited number of power cycles had anything to do with it (it does seem like when an incandescent bulb does blow it's right when it turns on, and as I said that light pretty much just stays on), but they definitely lasted more than 1000 hours.

      --
      "People who think they know everything are very annoying to those of us who do."-Mark Twain
    65. Re:But still... by Tony+Hoyle · · Score: 1

      JESUS on a popsicle stick

      If *anything* in my house used 10,000 watts I'd personally drag it to the skip.

    66. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Incandescents are only 100% efficient as a light and heat source. Ground loop geothermal is 350% efficient even in Minnesota, so if you are heating with incadescent bulbs, you are being wasteful!

    67. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Well, it's not necessarily just perception.

      He's probably taking advantage of radiant heat.

      Standard heaters work by heating up the air - this is fairly inefficient, you need to heat most/all the air in the room to perceive the difference if you don't have yourself directly in the exhaust.

      Radiant heat - significant loads of heat as IR radiation, on other hand, is heading him directly. If he's got it shining on his hands, for example, they'll feel warmer because they ARE warmer. And my hands are one of the first things to feel cold.

      I've experienced this to a relative extreme in a hanger with the system installed. Out in the open you feel *HOT*. Walk under a wing and suddenly it's freezing.

      Same deal with underfloor heating - people often feel the same equivalent temperature even if the air temp is actually 5F lower, because more heat is getting to the *people*.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    68. Re:But still... by Tony+Hoyle · · Score: 1

      Yes. They have them in cheaper houses in this country.

      They're hellishly expensive to run... gas is preferred.

    69. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

      You're a triple degreed EE, but it took you 2 decades to decide you'd had enough of CFLs?

    70. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      true but natural gas produces CO2, if you use electric heating you can argue that it could come from renewable non CO2 producing methods

      also electric heating is the most efficient of all heating methods in terms of potential energy -> heat energy (it can be nearly 100% or so?)

      an incandescent light bulb is about 7% efficient light output with the rest 93% turned heat.

      For those (like me) who live in a cold environment a few 100% watt light bulbs can keep a house above freezing if your furnace dies in the dead of winter which prevents the water pipes freezing over.

    71. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1, Insightful

      P.S.

      Ya know what pisses me off? People who dismiss your complaints as if they are meaningless. I've thrown-away at least a hundred dollars on shitty CFL products, and what kind of response do I get? "Your observations are wrong."

      What? Did I just turn stupid? Who the hell are these people to tell me that I'm too stupid to understand what I have observed with my own eyes? Frakkers. That reminds me of when I complained to magazines.com that "I did not receive my ordered magazines," and the seller told me I'm not getting a refund because it's not his fault. What??? What?!?!? I quickly disavowed them of that notion when not only did I reverse the charge on the missing magazines, but also the whole damn order (~$60).

      I know what I know, and don't you dare tell me that I'm too stupid to know if I did not receive my magazine and/or wasted ~$100 on CFLs that died prematurely.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    72. Re:But still... by gabebear · · Score: 1

      Except that the power company puts PF correction in far sooner than the power plant, and while it doubles the amps for wire resistance calculations(until it hits the power company's correction equipment), it actually doesn't double the wattage used. More like 5-10%.

      The actual loss depends on how much wire is between the bulb and wherever the power company has a filterbank. A 0.5PF rating likely has an efficiency lower than 90%, possibly lower than 50% for rural customers.

      They build PFC in pretty much as standard on high quality high efficiency computer power supplies, why would you think the power company couldn't do the same? And there are better bulbs out there with active PFC.

      The EU, China, and Japan require that any switching power supply above 75W provides PFC. Bulbs are not held to the same standard even though a lighting fixture might use more power. Correcting PF at the source is generally easier because you know what you are correcting for(i.e. harmonic problem or inductive load). Mains PFC is expensive and far less efficient.

      HPF CFLs exist(with passive PFC, no active PFC that I know of), but aren't normally in stores.

    73. Re:But still... by Sj0 · · Score: 1

      Most light fixtures are mounted above your head. Placing a heat source up there won't effectively contribute to home heating. Vents are mounted near the floor for a reason.

      --
      It's been a long time.
    74. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Since the new LED's last so long I am very concerned that future generations will not have the bulb-changing skills necessary for survival. We may see the coming of wandering bulb-changers roaming the land, passing on to their children the skills they learned from their fathers.
      Also we will witness the demise of the "How many (blank)s does it take to change a light bulb?" joke.

    75. Re:But still... by operagost · · Score: 1

      Get a light meter, and measure the output from when it is switched on. Nearly all CFLs are not at full brightness when turned on, especially when the ambient temperature is low. Some notice it, some don't.

      --

      Gamingmuseum.com: Give your 3D accelerator a rest.
    76. Re:But still... by rickkw · · Score: 1

      On the other hand, if you want both heat and light, you can replace the ceiling light socket with a wall mounted electrical heater. It's a win-win.

    77. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not this shit again. Every internet discussion...

    78. Re:But still... by gabebear · · Score: 1

      Hopefully you didn't literally throw the bulbs away. $100 would buy a lot of mercury containing CFLs.

    79. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      >>>1990 called.. it wants its CFLs back. Have you *really* actually used them or are you just making stuff up?

      (sings) - Trolling trolling along the bountiful Main. Why do you ask questions when you already know the answer? YES I'm using CFLs right now - I said that in my original post. The ones I have now I just purchased these past few months and were made by Philips, but they still have all the flaws I listed in my original post. 3 of them have died due to heat being trapped in my upside-down kitchen and bathroom lights, which killed the electronics in the base of the bulb.

      >>>CFLs are now the same price (and in some cases cheaper) than incandescents

      Wow. Not only a troll but also an idiot! How efficient of you. The CFLs I bought cost about $3 per bulb... meanwhile I bought some incandescents for 25 cents at my local grocery store. Not only is CFL not cheaper, it's a full order-of-magnitude more expensive.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    80. Re:But still... by EsbenMoseHansen · · Score: 1

      Perhaps you did not use it at it's specified voltage (e.g used a light dimmer)? Or more likely, you changed it more often but forgot --- a very human thing, especially if you knew you were wasting them by always having them on. Or maybe they do indeed keep longer when never turned off or on.

      As for coming home, I prefer a motion sensor :)

      --
      Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as false, and by rulers as useful.
    81. Re:But still... by GameMaster · · Score: 2, Funny

      I hear you can, dramatically, increase the energy efficiency if you re-route the furnace exhaust back into the house. ;-)

      --

      Rules of Conduct:
      #1 - The DM is always right.
      #2 - If the DM is wrong, see rule #1
    82. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "Rebalancing" power does not contribute to expended wattage (ie no extra coal, etc.). The additional 15 watts is reactive, meaning it can be recovered. It's just borrowed power that can be returned. It's all about the phase, and one reactive watt can cancel another reactive watt. So, a 15-watt CFL uses 15 watts. Admittedly, it is more work for the power company to deliver and manage reactive power, and therefore it may increase the cost of the power delivery, but it's not costing power.

    83. Re:But still... by GameMaster · · Score: 1

      Actually, you would save money on your heating bill. The added heat from the incandescent bulb will cause your thermostat to shut off the furnace, slightly, sooner than it would have with LED bulbs. This will lead to a, slight, savings on your electric bill.

      --

      Rules of Conduct:
      #1 - The DM is always right.
      #2 - If the DM is wrong, see rule #1
    84. Re:But still... by AshtangiMan · · Score: 1

      not quite true. radiant heat from above can be a very comfortable and effective way to heat, even with a delta T as low as 30F. Heat does not rise, it moves from warm to cold. vents are for forced air systems which behave a little differently, and are a much less efficient way to heat. with a massive floor (slab on grade) that has good perimeter insulation radiant heat from above is a very good way to heat. but you are correct that a light bulb is not the ideal radiant heater.

    85. Re:But still... by GameMaster · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Heat pumps don't work in colder environments which, coincidentally, are also, usually, the places with the longest winters and shortest summers. In the warmer environments where a heat pump would be usable, the long summers would make much of the argument moot as the extra heat from the incandescent would be unwanted most of the year.

      --

      Rules of Conduct:
      #1 - The DM is always right.
      #2 - If the DM is wrong, see rule #1
    86. Re:But still... by psm321 · · Score: 1

      Yes, if the LEDs cost the same as incandescents. And if they provide the same quality of light. (I don't know if they do or not, but I know CFLs give me headaches)

    87. Re:But still... by camperdave · · Score: 1

      If the cost of lighting your house is $90.00 for lighting only, please stop trying to replicate the surface of the sun lighting conditions in your home.

      I run a grow op, you insensitive clod.

      --
      When our name is on the back of your car, we're behind you all the way!
    88. Re:But still... by GameMaster · · Score: 1

      Your comment about electric heat is worthless. Whether electric heat is the most expensive form of heating, or the cheapest, depends, almost entirely, on what part of the world you live in. In the US, it varies greatly based on what state/county you're in. I've lived in areas where the local electric company is a co-op and power prices are so low that natural gas, oil, etc. can't compete.

      That said, I agree about much of the rest of what you said. No matter what heating system you use, better insulating your home can save lots of money and living in an apartment with crappy insulation is a bad idea.

      --

      Rules of Conduct:
      #1 - The DM is always right.
      #2 - If the DM is wrong, see rule #1
    89. Re:But still... by smellsofbikes · · Score: 2, Informative
      >It sounds like you're buying cheap bulbs, and your dimmer is probably the old resistance type, not the newer electronic pulse type.

      Not to dismiss your other arguments, but I work in lighting, specifically in designing test hardware for LED lights that run off commercially available dimmer switches, and I've spent years renovating houses, and I have never seen a resistance-type dimmer switch. The way a resistance dimmer would work, would be to dissipate the power through resistance in the wall, meaning you'd have up to the light bulb's rating of heat being generated in the tiny space of the box in the wall -- an incredibly bad idea, a fire hazard, a safety hazard, and likely to burn the next person who touches the switch because it'd be so hot.

      Old-style dimmers use a triac, triggered by an adjustable resistor/diac, that chops the AC sinewave, holding it at zeroV for a while before letting it through. New-style dimmers do exactly the same thing only they let the AC rise, then chop it to 0, and they use more sophisticated electronics to do it. If you left/right reverse the waveform, you practically can't tell the difference between the two types.

      This is a minor point, but one that comes up a lot in talking about dimmers. If anyone has seen a pure resistance-type dimmer, ever, I'd love to know about it.

      Actually, I did see one once. It was in a museum in Iceland, and had been used in a farmhouse in the 1930's, that was using a hydroelectric generator and the resistive element served to regulate the power to all the lights in the house. It was about the size of a shoebox and was mounted on the wall with a big steel heatsink extending outwards from beneath it.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    90. Re:But still... by sricetx · · Score: 1

      It really depends on the CFL bulb. I have 3 GE G40 bulbs that come on at almost full brightness instantly in my bathroom vanity. The fourth bulb in the fixture is a G40 CFL from Costco that takes about 3 minutes to come up to full brightness. It's a dull red color for several minutes compared to the bright white of the GE bulbs. I also had 3 of these Costco CFL bulbs burn out after only about 4 months of usage too. Cheap Chinese junk.

    91. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      and I have never seen a resistance-type dimmer switch

      The house I lived in as a teenager had one until I replaced it. I'll agree that it wasn't a good solution.

      Good point though, there's old style and then there's old style. The newest dimmers work a bit closer to a switch mode power supply.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    92. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Yes well I'm an environmentalist, and I want to do my part to reduce energy usage, so I initially blamed myself rather than the CFL.

      Plus I've moved into a house which means I'm encountering problems I never had in my small apartment (i.e. I had no porchlight, and no upside-down fixtures). But now I've come to realize these problems are a flaw with the basic design of the CFL. It has to be able to withstand a temperature range of -50 upto 200 degrees, and most of them are not up to the task.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    93. Re:But still... by dr2chase · · Score: 1

      For at least one combination of LED and motion detector, yes, because I am doing just that for an outdoor light.

      LEDs have no particular problem with being turned on and off quickly -- for dimming below about 1/2 power, it is recommended that you chop them, typically at frequencies above several hundred Hertz (so as to avoid visible flicker).

      LEDs have no particular sensitivity to the cold; they are more efficient and last longer when cold. Too hot, they become less efficient and it shortens their lifetime (which is nominally 50-100K hours, depending on the LED).

    94. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Ooops.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    95. Re:But still... by mdsolar · · Score: 1

      Replacing windows with Vacuum Insulated Glass would be even better since windows save energy on lighting during the day. This is in field tests now: http://www.windowanddoor.com/news-item/companies/guardian-gearing-up-bring-vacuum-glazing-market

    96. Re:But still... by need4mospd · · Score: 0

      - CFLs *hate* heat. CFLs hate cold. CFLs hate humidity. CFLs hate dimmers.

      Contrary to popular belief, CFLs are not actually capable of *hate*. Nor can they love unfortunately, those spirals are so sexy... Anyways....the CFL over my stove top(~2 ft.) that has been exposed to hot/cold cycles, steam, grease, etc... has been running for a CONTINUOUS 2.5 years. NEVER turned off.

      In practical terms this means CFLs can not be used in 80-90% of present fixtures.

      Except for every single fixture inside and outside my house(excluding 8' shop lights, the light on my VCR, and my Indiglo Timex watch). Apparently my 1982 built house had some kind of super CFL compliant fixtures installed and those Walmart lamps are something straight out of a sci-fi novel.

      I used them in my upside-down ktichen lights - they died 2 months later.

      I'm sorry for your loss. And to think they hated their life that whole time...

      I used them outside in my porch light - it worked fine until the temperature dropped below zero, and then refused to light.

      I've seen incandescent bulbs fucking explode in cold weather. MUCH BETTER! Fortunately, I got 4 CFLs outside that have 2.5 years+ on all of them. They get used daily. And by "used", I mean "sexually used". And by "daily", I mean at night after my wife goes to bed.

      I used them in my bathroom, and after a shower the humidity killed half of them.

      Again, sorry for your loss. You should look into starting a homicide investigation to find this "humidity" killer. My wife is always saying he messed up her hair and I don't want a murderer messing with my wife's hair.

      I bought a so-called "dimmable CFL" which died 5 minutes after I installed it in my living room dimmer switch.

      You're supposed to "install" the bulb into the light socket, not into the dimmer switch, that may be the problem. I've had 4 CFLs on dimmers in my dining room and a couple in my bedroom(bow chicka wow wow... ok not really, I turn the lights off for that shit) now for at least 2 years.

      CFLs hate being turned on and off.

      Again with this hate thing? You're just not doing it right. Try a warm bath and a bottle of wine before making your move. It hasn't worked for me yet, but I'm willing to bet it could pay off given a large enough liquor supply. I can't afford much since I spent a whole $50 for enough CFLs to fill my house along with spares.

      CFLs have a warm-up time.

      Not compared to my wife they don't! (I'll be here all night, tip your veal, try your waitress) It takes a whole 1-2 seconds for enough light to see reasonably well, another 5-10 seconds for what is effectively full brightness. Some of them are even quicker. But they're just overachievers, trying to show off.

      Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing. Turn it on to go down the basement stairs - and you can't see the steps because it's still too dim (a safety hazard).

      Harsh words my friend. Paper? PAPER? Seriously, who reads the paper anymore?
      Do you buy some 5 watt chinese made brand or something? Seriously, this is NOT a problem with ANY of my CFLs.

      I have about 20 CFLs in my home.

      No need to brag. But since you've got your shorts down already, I've got 30.

    97. Re:But still... by WindBourne · · Score: 1

      About 2 years, one of the GE bulbs that I bought caught on fire. It was an R-30 that was in a can. Likewise, we have had 10 GE china-made bulbs die within their first year (include a 180W rated one; expensive bugger to lose). That is a LOT OF BULBS to lose the more so considering how expensive they are.

      OTH, I have replaced most of the GE with Mexico made Phillips and not a one has gone out. I think that this is about quality rather than it being CFL. The Phillips costs a bit more up front, but they are costing me less over the long haul.

      BTW, just bought one of the LED bulbs from Walmart. Died within 6 months. Though to be fair, I had it on an X-10 circuit. The switch was one of the more expensive ones, that claimed to work for CFL and LED, but I think that there was still bleed and that is most likely what caused. Have to say that I love the X-10 for incandescents, but man, it is murder on none incandescents.

      --
      I prefer the "u" in honour as it seems to be missing these days.
    98. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      My central heat pump/air conditioner is rated 9500 watts. Yours probably uses at least 5000... maybe more.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    99. Re:But still... by Tanktalus · · Score: 1

      The plural of anecdote is not data. When you're only using one household, you need a lot of time to put together enough data to form a hypothesis ("CFLs are a net benefit over incandescents") and then be able to falsify it. If, instead, he had used 20 households for a year, he'd have similar amounts of data, but taken much less timespan to reach his conclusions.

      I have a single EE degree and came to the same conclusion after about two days with CFLs when the first one burned out. But I'm under no delusions that mine is an anecdotal-based conclusion, not a data-based conclusion.

    100. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      It doesn't matter. The point is that a 15 watt CFL is actually using 30 volt-amps, so it's only saving half as much energy as a 60 volt-amp traditional bulb (and no energy savings versus GE's new advanced technology incandescents).

      Yes it DOES. The 15 watt CFL with .5PF PEAKS at 30VA, but it also puts the power back. It's demand load is funky compared to a straight resistive load. The end result is that you end up with more line resistance, not that it USES 30 watts, which is a measure of power.

      The CFL still saves power over the new incandescents. You're still free to choose the one you like better to meet your style.

      I've had 6 bulbs die in just this past year. Three of them were cheap Lights of America bulbs, but the other 3 were Philips which is a reputable company. They died because of being used in upside-down kitchen fixtures. I opened the bulbs, and found that the electronics had been cooked (caps bulged and the internal electrolyte oozed out).

      Interesting. We have two substantially different experiences. My bathroom light is completely upside down, it's on quite frequently, and hasn't failed yet despite me showering there daily.

      I have some different ideas at this point:
      1. Dirty power - You have it, I don't.
      2. Brand/model differences - I've had luck, you haven't.
      3. For some reason our usage is actually quite different, but I don't exactly sit around in the dark either.
      4. Environmental - My environment is nicer to them than yours. I generally don't have high humidity, it gets cold in the winter, I don't have AC, temperatures in the house spike up into the 80's in the summer. Don't know what yours is like.

      The first would be harder to check, but might be more likely. Consumer reports(or various other such organizations) should be able to check the 2nd. The 3rd could be chalked up to the same stuff as driving habits. CR should be able to test 'switch heavy'/'long use'. 4th can be tested as well, heck, do surveys and you should be able to find #1 as well.

      Well I had a 40 watt bulb there. In order to get a bulb that equals that same brightness after initial turnon, I'd have to get a 120-watt-equivalent. So in terms of power we're talking about 40 volt-amps versus 60 volts-amps. Where's the energy savings?

      I was thinking of going up a size; I don't really use anything less than a 60 watt equivalent.

      Any reason you think you'd need to swap in a bulb 3 times the size?

      Hmm... I don't know why you have such long start up times, I certainly haven't noticed them. I had a theory that there's something different about the construction of 240V CFLs that have them taking longer than 120V American ones, but you seem to counterdict that.

      Responses people: Voltage and rating(happy, takes too long to light up, and/or burns out too fast)
      110V - Happy with them

      I'm a triple-degreed electrical engineer. Not an idiot. My observations have merit, and your casual dismissal of them is not in any way acceptable.

      You're an EE? Huh. Well, have you checked your home's electrical system to make sure it's in tolerances? I did so and found some miswiring in my(really old) house.

      I mean, I replaced my fuse box with a breaker box after I caught the fuse box switch sparking, my electronics have been much happier since then...

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    101. Re:But still... by DragonWriter · · Score: 1

      Regardless of climate, most of the air-conditioning demand comes between 3PM and 6PM, not really peak hours for using any artificial lighting. Maybe for the basement dwellers, but their rooms are nice and cool anyway.

      Also for people who have figured out that letting in sunlight also is letting in heat, and who minimize that when they want to minimize indoor heat.

    102. Re:But still... by smellsofbikes · · Score: 1

      Wow. Do you have any idea how old it was? Was it basically just a huge potentiometer, rated for 100W or so? I've wired up a couple pots with AC in my time and it can be an exciting solution: a little bit dirty and the sparks start *flying*. Even better if you've got 220V wiring everywhere like in Europe. I bet those caused a lot of fires.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    103. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      The actual loss depends on how much wire is between the bulb and wherever the power company has a filterbank. A 0.5PF rating likely has an efficiency lower than 90%, possibly lower than 50% for rural customers.

      Quite possible I guess. Still a better response than C64's 'I'M AN EE' response. When I first heard about PF and the correction of it I read up on it. Interesting stuff.

      Correcting PF at the source is generally easier because you know what you are correcting for(i.e. harmonic problem or inductive load). Mains PFC is expensive and far less efficient.

      True, and if CFLs keep spreading they might end up losing their current exemption to needing PFC. It shouldn't add that much to cost, and should have the side benefit of extending service life. From my understanding, PFC equipment tends to be a tad more robust about input voltage.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    104. Re:But still... by rinoid · · Score: 1

      Thinking that the case for saving energy costs with CFL/LED is made moot by the offset your incandescent bulbs make in your heating bill is fallacious.
      You are all on crack if you really believe there is some valued heat quotient affecting your heating bill off a handful of incandescent light bulbs ... pass the pipe!

      If you use less energy with an LED or CFL things are better. If that money and energy saved amount to the cost of the bulb things are better. You are NOT gaining any appreciable heat generation to affect your heating bill by burning incandescent bulbs. Period.

      I live in Maine. We have winter. The dozen and a half incandescent light bulbs will not appreciably affect my heating bills, nor my comfort level w/re to the cold. It's crazy this thread went on so long before some levity was introduced. The only people who use AC in New England tend to be New Englanders who believe 90 degrees and some humidity is hot. It only last for a few days before all is crisp and cool again and why whine about the few days of heat in the summer when you have 6 effective months of winter is beyond me.

    105. Re:But still... by geekoid · · Score: 1

      so in winter you'll need to run the heater more. However the total electricity use will be the same.

      no, becasue a light bulb on a ceiling is a very poor way to heat a room. A heater is more efficient* so you get more heat per watt.

      So running the heater saves electricity over an incandescent bulb in a room.

      *i.e. designed to heat an area with less energy usage. I only state this becasuie sometime it can be hard for people to realize this when normally heat = less efficiency.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    106. Re:But still... by oldhack · · Score: 1

      So you're an outlier where inefficiency doesn't cost you too much, but that doesn't subtract anything from the post you're replying to.

      Might as well bring in the car analogy. You want a car that burns half the fuel generating heat because you live in cold climate. That's your call, but plainly a stupid idea for the rest of us.

      --
      Fuck systemd. Fuck Redhat. Fuck Soylent, too. Wait, scratch the last one.
    107. Re:But still... by geekoid · · Score: 1

      If you get the same amount of heat per watt from an incandescent bulb that you do from an electric heater, then you have the crappiest heater every built.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    108. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      I think that this is about quality rather than it being CFL.

      I think this is a very important idea. I've had cheap incandescents not last even a week, had some others last well over a year in the same spot. Build quality DOES matter, and I tend to look for 'other than china'. I know the mercury is required for function, but I don't need an extra dose of lead to go along with it.

      I'm not really that much of a 'greenie. I consider myself for the environment, but I put that in context with the economy - how can I prevent the most pollution for the least amount of dollars?

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    109. Re:But still... by poopdeville · · Score: 1

      It can't give off more heat and be more efficient at the same time. However, it is placed close to you so that helps :)

      I said hotter, not "give off more heat". Halogen lamps have an operating temperature that is significantly hotter than regular incandescent bulbs. This means, in particular, that the bulbs run significantly hotter (up to 4000K if I recall correctly). On the other hand, it also means that the color temperature of the bulb is significantly hotter, so that more light is radiated in the visible spectrum.

      But as I said, this is a good desk accessory. It is near me because the light shining on me and my desk are what keep me warm, through radiant heat. A regular incandescent bulb would work for this purpose too, but why bother when a halogen bulb looks better (because of the color temperature) and is brighter for a fixed level of energy consumption?

      Heck, this increased efficiency means more light/heat lands on me, instead of flowing out of the little vent holes at the top of every lamp. At that point, you're merely heating the air, which isn't a waste of energy exactly (at least in the winter), but isn't as efficient as keeping a person warm as shining a lamp on them and the surfaces they touch.

      --
      After all, I am strangely colored.
    110. Re:But still... by phision · · Score: 1

      Anyway, they are better, because led is lighter than mercury.

    111. Re:But still... by highfidelitychris · · Score: 1

      So, 80-90% of CFLs are used in hot, cold, humid or dimmer situations? Maybe in your home, but not the rest of the world. Many homes don't even have dimmers.

    112. Re:But still... by geekoid · · Score: 1

      - CFLs *hate* heat.

      Only if it's extreme heat

      CFLs hate cold.

      Only if it's extreme cold

      CFLs hate humidity.
      ONly extreme humidity

      CFLs hate dimmers.
      Depends on the bulb.

      "In practical terms this means CFLs can not be used in 80-90% of present fixtures"
      wrong.
      try 10-20%.

      "- CFLs hate being turned on and off. "
      So far all mine in my house have lasted longer the any incandescent bulb.

      What they really hate is dirty power. THAT's the real problem.
      I have pretty clean power.

      "- CFLs have a warm-up time. Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing."
      If buy 5 minutes yo mean 5 seconds then yes. Maybe you need glasses?

      "Turn it on to go down the basement stairs - and you can't see the steps because it's still too dim (a safety hazard).
      Haha, really, there to dim to see stairs? You do need glasses.

      While LEDs will be better then CFLs and incandescent, your full of shit.

      You've let your altered of all things government bias you beyond all measure.

      For the record, I wrote code used to trest and compare bulb types and manufacturing technique for efficiency.
      So I ahve look over actual hard number and am not relying a personal anecdotes; which are always flawed.

      Mandate them has been premature, IMO. OTOH some of the LED develops and manufacturing changes may cause the cost of LEDs to drop to where this argument will be moot, we will al just buy LEDs.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    113. Re:But still... by Steve525 · · Score: 1

      I've had the whole house on CFLs for years now and they light *instantly*.

      The standard fixture CFL's (A19 replacements) I've bought have all been pretty good. They start up fast (except in cold weather) with enough light output that I don't mind that it's not 100%. However, I've tried flood light replacements, and they all stink. I might as well light a candle for all the light they output when I turn them on. It takes a good couple minutes before they reach a reasonable light level, and another few minutes before they reach close to the advertised amount of light.

    114. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Ya know what pisses me off? People who dismiss your complaints as if they are meaningless. I've thrown-away at least a hundred dollars on shitty CFL products, and what kind of response do I get? "Your observations are wrong."

      Sure, I outright disagreed with you on the PF thing. I took your vague universal statements 'CFLs *hate* heat. CFLs hate cold. CFLs hate humidity. CFLs hate dimmers.' and put my personal experiences countering that in. I even posited a reason for that - cheap bulbs. Cheap as in build quality, not necessarily the price you paid for them. My grandfather had over a decade on an old U-tube CFL lamp. We replaced it with one with a better color response.

      I think it's interesting that people who complain about CFLs often have the same complaints - they normally complain about the same three things. IE I don't see many people complaining about slow start up times and NOT complain about fast burnout. I don't see many saying 'sure, they provide plenty of light quickly enough, but burn out too fast'.

      I've also never lived in a house with as many dimmers as it seems others have. I'm used to houses that have 1-2 dimmers, not dimmers in every room.

      don't you dare tell me that I'm too stupid to know

      I never mentioned your intelligence in my post, so I'd appreciate it if you didn't assume I was trying to insult it. I simply posted my countering experience/knowledge.

      We have two different experiences with CFLs, maybe the correct solution is to try to figure out what's different?

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    115. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Wow, you're way off. SEER is not a representation of equal units. You're thinking of COP, but using SEER numbers.

      SEER of 13 is roughly a COP of 3. In other words, one watt into the system can move 3 watts of heat.

    116. Re:But still... by geekoid · · Score: 1

      If they are dying that fast, check your power. It's probably dirty or/and has drift. Your fixture may not be at modern code.
      Under normal expect conditions, they should not be burning out that fast.
      Or you got a bad batch of bulbs. Not very likely, but who knows.

      huh, my Phillips were a buck a package.

      "3 of them have died due to heat being trapped in my upside-down kitchen and bathroom lights"
      Seriously, this really makes no sense. The don't give off a lot of heat, and the heat will dissipate pretty fast. Unless they are enclosed in a plastic box.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    117. Re:But still... by geekoid · · Score: 1

      Mine are at 90%* immediatly, the remain 10% might take as long as 30 seconds.

      If you can not read a paper or see stairs when you 60 eq bulb is turned on immediatly, something is wrong. This is not normal CFL operation.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    118. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      No idea; yes, big ass potentiometer, not rated for 100W(part of the problem), maybe 40-60. We didn't really use it much, but it would warm the faceplate up quite nicely if you used it for long...

      I'm in the USA, it was 120V.

      My favorite electrical experiences was the socket wired parallel to the light switch, in series with the light, and the sparking fuse box switch.

      My least favorite was when mom switch the breaker back on when I was swapping paint encrusted outlets with new ones in my new bedroom(previous owners hadn't covered them when they painted).

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    119. Re:But still... by Patch86 · · Score: 1

      On an individual, per-person, per-bulb, per-day basis the money we're talking about doesn't seem significant. Over a person's lifetime of bulb-use it looks a little better. When taking into account the cost and energy usage of every bulb in the developed world it seems to be quite a bit more important.

    120. Re:But still... by Chris+Burke · · Score: 2, Informative

      t doesn't matter. The point is that a 15 watt CFL is actually using 30 volt-amps, so it's only saving half as much energy as a 60 volt-amp traditional bulb

      I'm a triple-degreed electrical engineer. Not an idiot.

      You're a triple-degreed EE who doesn't know how power factor works, and yes that does make you an idiot. Idiots can get degrees, who would have thought?! If you didn't have the degrees, then you'd just be excusably ignorant (but in either case a jackass for talking like you weren't ignorant).

      Cluephone: PF of 0.5 does not mean the CFL actually consumes twice as much energy. It consumes a somewhat larger amount of energy because of extra resistive losses in transmitting the extra current. The CFL itself consumes the same 15 W, and the power company needs to generate the same 15 W. They also need to cover the extra resistive losses, but that's not anywhere close to equal to the real power consumed by the bulb, and doesn't put a CFL anywhere near any kind of incandescent.

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    121. Re:But still... by Eunuchswear · · Score: 1

      They were, as I said, joke numbers. The point is that 1+1=2.

      --
      Watch this Heartland Institute video
    122. Re:But still... by Chris+Burke · · Score: 1

      Heat pumps don't work in colder environments which, coincidentally, are also, usually, the places with the longest winters and shortest summers.

      It doesn't really matter. Resistive heaters are inefficient heaters. Just about anything else is better. They're great for certain uses, like portable space heaters, but a very poor choice for heating your home.

      I'm not going to blame anyone living in a cold environment for not rushing out to buy CFLs when worrying about the overall efficiency of their heating solution (their heater + insulation) is vastly more important. But the argument that CFLs won't buy you anything because the wasted power of an incandescent is equal to the power that would be used heating the house is incorrect.

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    123. Re:But still... by Eunuchswear · · Score: 1

      An incandescent bulb turns about 90% of the electricity into heat and 10% into light.

      An electric heater turns about 100% if the electricity into heat.

      So an incandescent bulb is not so bad as a heater (just ask any chicken).

      --
      Watch this Heartland Institute video
    124. Re:But still... by Eunuchswear · · Score: 1

      I don't know of any energy conversion process that is 100% efficient,

      Uh, electrictity into heat? (You may get a little buzzing noise, but apart from that...)

      and I can tell you for certain that burning gas, wood, or coal is no where near 100% efficiency.

      A condensing gas boiler is supposed to get somewhere between 82% (lowest real-life reported) and 98% (best case in the lab).

      In fact the better equipment most electrical companies have for combustion still provides a better efficiency even after transmission loss and conversion then you could achieve at home.

      Nowhere near - just the heat->electricity is at best 48% efficient, without even getting into transmission losses.

      --
      Watch this Heartland Institute video
    125. Re:But still... by FailedTheTuringTest · · Score: 1

      CFLs hate...

      My experience is quite different from yours. I use CFLs in my upside-down kitchen lights too: installed two years ago, still going strong. I use them in my bathroom too, and I shower daily: still going strong after two years. I have not tried them outdoors or in my dimmer fixture, but dimmable CFLs are available. My CFLs do not take "five minutes" to warm up; they are on and fully usable when I turn the switch on -- although I admit that some of my oldest ones (many years old) come on at near full brightness instantly but brighten a bit more over a second or two until they reach full. And frankly, as far as I can remember, I have never in ten years had a CFL die except from dropping it on the floor.

    126. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      >>>he power company puts PF correction in far sooner than the power plant,

      It doesn't matter. The point is that a 15 watt CFL is actually using 30 volt-amps, so it's only saving half as much energy as a 60 volt-amp traditional bulb (and no energy savings versus GE's new advanced technology incandescents).

      >>>In 6 years the only CFL to die on me was from being dropped.

      I've had 6 bulbs die in just this past year. Three of them were cheap Lights of America bulbs, but the other 3 were Philips which is a reputable company. They died because of being used in upside-down kitchen fixtures. I opened the bulbs, and found that the electronics had been cooked (caps bulged and the internal electrolyte oozed out).

      >>>If the stairs are too dim, put in a brighter bulb

      Well I had a 40 watt bulb there. In order to get a bulb that equals that same brightness after initial turnon, I'd have to get a 120-watt-equivalent. So in terms of power we're talking about 40 volt-amps versus 60 volts-amps. Where's the energy savings?

      I have wasted so much money on CFLs it's ridiculous.
      Instead of helping the environment, I'm filling it
      with dead bulbs that stopped working prematurely.

      This is a flawed technology... as flawed as those old videorecords.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    127. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Add to this, you can get much more efficient heating than that from electrical resistance. An electric heat pump can give you 3 or 4 times more heating than resistive heating.

    128. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Yeah well I don't like how you dismissed MY observations as if I'm some kind of retard. It's insulting. I've tried multiple CFLs from different brands, all of which died early deaths, and I wasted about a hundred dollars of my cash. That's bullshit. If I had known that was going to happen, I would have stayed with the cheap 25 cent bulbs.
      .

      >>>maybe the correct solution is to try to figure out what's different?

      No the correct solution is to stick with the technology that works (incandescents), because I can't afford to keep throwing-away hundreds of dollars on CFLs after the incandescents are banned in 2012. Since you seem so confident that CFLs are good, come here to my house - install some CFLs in my upside-down and enclosed kitchen/bathroom fixtures. If they survive more than a year (which they should given CFL lifespans of 10,000 hours), then I'll give you one hundred dollars.

      If they don't survive, then the bill will be yours. What's that?

      Oh you don't want to accept the challenge. You're not as confident now.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    129. Re:But still... by smellsofbikes · · Score: 1
      That sounds appalling. I'll bet that faceplate got warm.

      My worst electrical experience was rewiring a knob-and-tube house from the 1900's, that had been rewired using very old Romex in flexible conduit in the 1950's. The knob-and-tube main distribution was fine, but everywhere they'd added in outlets or switches they'd done drops using the conduit/romex, and the old fabric-covered romex had degraded over time so it was mostly just bare wires packed in debris from the broken-off and fallen-apart insulation. Every time I'd touch anything, it'd disturb what was left of the insulation and there'd be a big audible 'pop!' and that circuit would go dead, and the only fix was to pull out the wiring and run up new vinyl-covered romex. It made me appreciate circuit breakers, and the longevity/reliability of knob-and-tube. One learns the old one-hand rule rather quickly on stuff like that (or on stuff where parental units are switching breakers back on while you're working on the wiring...)

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    130. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      How about we just forget the whole damn idea? Seriously. Converting my lighting from traditional incandenscents only saves me between 25 and 50 cents per month. Big deal. But the money I've thrown-away on CFLs that die quick deaths is around $100. This is just adding an unnecessary aggravation for people, and wasting their wealth.

      We should be focusing on the REAL costs of owning a home - like reducing heat and air conditioning usage. For example mandating homes be built to PassivHaus standards could save owners $100 a month. Real money not just pennies.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    131. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      P.S.

      I hate environmentalists. I'm an environmentalist, so I guess you could say I hate myself. ;-) The reason I hate them is because it's impossible to reason with them. They refuse to think. Take CFLs. I have never succeeded in convincing my Green colleagues that it's a bad idea, even when I carted-in the dozens of dead CFLs in my possession. Why? Because they BELIEVE WITH ALL THEIR FAITH in the beauty of the CFL. Faith trumpets logic.

      You can not reason with people like that. It's frustrating.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    132. Re:But still... by krough · · Score: 0

      Apparently GE has given up on the high-efficiency incandescent bulbs and is focusing on LED tech: http://www.cleanbreak.ca/2008/11/26/ge-suspends-development-of-high-efficiency-incandescent/

    133. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      YOU FIRST. Show me the data that a CFL can handle all of the various roles (including enclosed fixtures, refrigerators, and ovens) that incandescent bulbs have handled every day for the last ~100 years. If you want to demand that all EU and U.S. citizens switch-over to this new technology, then it's incumbent upon you to prove they are up to the task.

      So far none have done that.

      And yet they've already made it mandatory, by law, to adopt them. That's bass-backwards.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    134. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      >>>The 15 watt CFL with .5PF PEAKS at 30VA..... not that it USES 30 watts

      Doesn't matter. Reactive power still requires burning more coal to rebalance the line. The 30 volt-amp CFL, or a 30 watt incandescent bulb, it makes no difference. They are burning the same amount of coal at the factory.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    135. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    136. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Take a 15 watt CFL with 0.5 PF which burns 30 volt-amps.
      Take a 30 watt traditional incandescent bulb.
      They both burn the same amount of coal in the factory.

      >>>have you checked your home's electrical system to make sure it's in tolerances? I did so and found some miswiring in my(really old) house.

      My house is less than 20 years old. Besides do you really expect the average person to do that??? Why should they? Why not just let them keep using the incandescent bulbs which are not sensitive to such factors? Why lay this huge burden on average citizens to spend hundreds of dollars rewiring and/or refixturing their homes to use CFLs? I can't think of a good reason. (And "no" saving a tiny 25 cents per month is not a good reason.)

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    137. Re:But still... by hamburgler007 · · Score: 1

      Heck, I wonder where people like you are getting your slow starting CFLs from, because none of mine take that long.

      The cheap home depot ones they sell in packs of 4,6,8,etc. tend to take longer to brighten up.

    138. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      The 60-watt-equivalent bulb hanging upside-down in my kitchen is sometimes so dim, it looks like a brown dwarf star. It takes 4-5 minutes to finally reach full brightness. And no that's not just an aberration. The other Philips bulbs follow the same cycle.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    139. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Wrong. They don't burn-out in right-side-up fixtures, or free-standing lamps. Only in the upside-down ones and for good reason - "CFL bulbs also burn out quicker if they're in a hot environment such as inside a light fixture," says Noah Horowitz, a scientist with the Natural Resources Defense Council: "If you put it in an enclosed fixture, maybe it will last 3,000 or 5,000 hours, not 10,000."

      THAT'S FROM THIS ARTICLE which reiterates all the things I've been saying (but most of ye refuse to hear): http://www.energyinvestmentstrategies.com/2008/02/29/cfl-problems-coming-to-light-good-news-for-leds/

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    140. Re:But still... by gabebear · · Score: 1

      Yep, when they have 60year LED bulbs that use 7W(equivalent to 60W) for a couple bucks, we will all grab them. Until that time, focus on something that can actually make a difference.

      There is some research that may lead to 60year LED bulbs for a couple bucks in a couple years! http://www.rsc.org/chemistryworld/News/2009/January/30010901.asp

    141. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      CHALLENGE:

      Since you seem soooooo certain the CFLs are fantastic, I want you to install CFLs in my upside-down and enclosed kitchen/bathroom fixtures, with appropriate styling (i.e. none of that swirl stuff). If the bulbs survive more than a year I will pay the bill for the bulbs, plus one hundred dollars. If even one dies, then you get to keep the bill for yourself.

      What's that? You're not willing to accept the challenge? That's what I thought. It's easy to TALK big but when it involves wasting your OWN money suddenly you're not so sure. You have doubts about CFLs ability to pass the test.

      Well there's no doubt in my mind.
      I already know they will fail.
      That's why I switched to incandescents.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    142. Re:But still... by Rafe_Aguilera · · Score: 1

      That's a very large unit if the running load is 10 kW. Just grabbing submittal data for an old Carrier heat pump (Model 50JS, 10 SEER; end of life) a 5 ton unit with no backup electric heat requires a 20 amp max breaker at 460 volts (commercial 3 phase power). So that puts a cap on it at 9.2 kW; and that's an overload condition. Its normal run load amps rating is 12 amps, so a normal operating power of 5.5 kW. If we use a unit designed for 230 volt (3 phase commercial) the run load amps rating is 27.1, so the normal operating power works out to be just over 6.2 kW. At 10 kW you're talking about a heat pump between 7.5 and 9 tons sensible capacity (depending on efficiency rating and operating voltage). In residential applications a 5 ton unit is sufficient to cool a 2500 to 3000 square foot house as a single zone (this does depend on climate zone and location, but is a good generalization); often a 3 ton unit will be installed and the house split into two 1500 square foot zones. A residential 5 ton split system (Carrier 24ABA060 and Carrier FC4CNC060), operating at 230 volts single phase has a run load amps of 33 (compressor and indoor unit combined) giving us a normal operating power just under 7.6 kW.

    143. Re:But still... by Chris+Burke · · Score: 1

      Take a 15 watt CFL with 0.5 PF which burns 30 volt-amps.
      Take a 30 watt traditional incandescent bulb.
      They both burn the same amount of coal in the factory.

      No, they don't. The whole point of Power Factor is that the real energy consumed by the circuit in Watts is different than the apparent power in the circuit in volt-amps. That energy difference is not "burned", it's returned to the system. The power plant needs to supply more current, but the only extra energy that it needs to produce is for the resistive losses due to the extra current.

      Since you don't seem to remember anything from your triple-EE degree beyond DC circuits and resistive loads, could you at least read the Wiki page on power factor and educate yourself before you continue spouting this ignorant FUD?!

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    144. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      You're wrong. The 100 or so dollars I wasted on CFLs *far* exceeds the amount of money saved. The same is likely to be true of most homeowners, since a lot of the fixturing is enclosed or otherwise inappropriate for CFL usage.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    145. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      For heating its hspf which runs around 9, seer is a cooling number

    146. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Right power factor does not reflect total energy used, otherwise your bill would include a charge for power factor. Since most electric devices lag the current being inductors, the power grid includes capacitors in the circuit to fix the power factor. (These are small boxes in groups on poles around town, as well as in large racks at substations). Historically it used to be that houses had 2 sets of wiring one for light and one for power (1920's) This was to allow a different charge for power factor since the power circuits where for motors who also have lagging power factors being inductors. All devices that get hot by resistance have a zero lag lead power factor so old time electronics was near zero. (The tube heaters where the majority of the electricity was used).

    147. Re:But still... by WindBourne · · Score: 1

      Yup. What I find crazy is that far too many ppl would rather save a buck today, and ignore the future. The 'Stick' house that my family built in the 70's had 7000 sq foot (650 sq meter). But my dad said that energy was the key, so we built it out to have R-40 in the ceiling and just under R-30 in the walls. Even the windows and skylights were light years ahead by being double panned and coated (common today, but expensive back then). What amazed me is that I found out that even 2 years ago, the last owner paid less than 1000 for HVAC on the house for all of last year, and he had expanded the house by another 2000 sq ft (200 sq. meter). Oddly the insurance and tax on the house was many times more.

      --
      I prefer the "u" in honour as it seems to be missing these days.
    148. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Thank you.

      The 100 or so dollars I wasted on CFLs *far* exceeds the few pennies saved. The same is likely to be true of most homeowners, since a lot of the fixturing is enclosed or otherwise inappropriate for CFL usage.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    149. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1
      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    150. Re:But still... by mattack2 · · Score: 1

      http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/cancelled

      Inflected Form(s): canceled or cancelled

      Please turn in your Grammar Nazi badge. I want another.

    151. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Yeah well I don't like how you dismissed MY observations as if I'm some kind of retard.

      Why do you keep assuming others are demeaning your intelligence?

      You have a car, I have a car. My car's been functioning just fine for the last decade, only killed when I ran it off the road to avoid a tractor(my own fault). Meanwhile you've suffered lemon after lemon.

      You constantly lampoon cars in response, which I can understand. But I don't share your experience. Why wouldn't I figure that there's something wrong. Maybe your car selection skills are such that you keep hitting on lemons. Maybe you don't perform the necessary maintenance.

      If I'd wanted to call you stupid I could have written my posts in a far different fashion.

      No the correct solution is to stick with the technology that works (incandescents), because I can't afford to keep throwing-away hundreds of dollars on CFLs after the incandescents are banned in 2012.

      For you. CFLs are working quite well for me and my family. In three different states. Again, what's the difference? You mention electrical issues in another post, have you investigated further? Hooked up a multimeter and checked? Do you experience heightened failures for other pieces of electrical equipment?

      Oh you don't want to accept the challenge. You're not as confident now.

      Well, considering you gave me about as much notice as the town council gave Arthur Dent, sure, crow your superiority.

      This ventures into internet tough guy territory(since we're both on a anonymous website), but I'd take your challange with some measures - 1. I provide the CFLs. 2. Outlets are checked for proper voltage/installation/suitability - IE no sockets in series with lights, no putting a 100watt equivalent in a fixture intended for a 40. 3. Somebody installs a home level surge supressor in your house, or at least checks the power with something that can detect spikes/noise. 4. Average life exceeds a year, so early failure of one defective unit isn't a failure.

      YOU FIRST. Show me the data that a CFL can handle all of the various roles (including enclosed fixtures, refrigerators, and ovens) that incandescent bulbs have handled every day for the last ~100 years.

      I'd never propose that CFLs be a 100% replacement. For me, they've worked in sizes between 60 and 100 watt equivalents quite well.

      I'd imagine a small LED system would work quite well in a fridge, don't feel like checking the upper end. Besides, utility bulbs like what goes in fridges and ovens are special anyways - and not particularly efficient. Not a big deal because they're not normally on long enough to matter(the fridge), and in an oven they just contribute a bit more heat. Heck, LED/cold capable CFL would help a fridge - a malfunction that leaves the light on all the time won't destroy the inside lining.

      And yet they've already made it mandatory, by law, to adopt them. That's bass-backwards.

      They merely require bulbs become more efficient. The new high efficiency incandescents, the LED lights, even some halogen bulbs meet the new standards, so it's not like they're requiring CFLs specifically.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    152. Re:But still... by clone53421 · · Score: 1

      Yeah, yeah, whatever. It's still poor form to use both spellings in the same post.

      FWIW, I knew "cancelled" is a valid spelling, I just forgot when I posted that. Why did I forget? Because he spelled it both ways, and after reading the first one I mentally thought it was "correct" without stopping to recall that either was. That wasn't my main point, anyway.

      --
      Alexander Peter Kristopeit bought his basement from his mommy for one dollar.
    153. Re:But still... by Chris+Burke · · Score: 1, Troll

      I deleted my initial response to this as I took a rather insulting tone towards his EE degrees. I'm having enough problems with him thinking I'm insulting his intelligence.

      Heh. I am most certainly insulting his intelligence, I just see no need to insult his degree in order to do so. :)

      For two systems transmitting the same amount of real power, the system with the lower power factor will have higher circulating currents due to energy that returns to the source from energy storage in the load. These higher currents in a practical system may produce higher losses and reduce overall transmission efficiency.

      Yes, it's the "energy storage" and return that he doesn't seem to comprehend. He seems to think all power in a circuit is "burned", based on a very naive EE101 view that everything is a resistive load.

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    154. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      I've read up on PassivHaus, and while they're good in many areas, they aren't suitable for all areas of the USA. I'm a big fan of regionalization, personally. You build homes suitable for the area they're going to be put in.

      A New England home would be minorly different than one in North Dakota, but would be vastly different than one in Texas, much less Florida.

      PassivHaus homes aren't designed for the cooling requirements of a deep south home, they're much more about retaining heat than getting rid of it. Their ground requirements wouldn't work in many areas.

      You have to remember that it IS possible to spend so much money on energy efficiency that you'll never see a return on your money(IE it'd be cheaper buying the energy to keep the house at the right temperature than building it to NOT need the energy). I do object to minimum-standard McMansions.

      Somebody building a home should take into account local conditions, building material availability, and costs to construct a high quality economical building. This WILL involve a higher up-front cost than current methods, but should pay themselves off in 20 years, even considering interest on the loan.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    155. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Reactive power still requires burning more coal to rebalance the line.

      It takes a capacitor to rebalance the line. It only takes burning more coal to make up the extra resistance losses from the higher VA levels.

      10A 50% of the time wastes more power as heat over a wire as 5A 100% of the time, even though they average out to the same number of watts.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    156. Re:But still... by ChaosDiscord · · Score: 1

      I've never bothered with a light meter and stopwatch, but my assessment is similar. For the lights I use most often, my living room lights, the lights are bright enough to comfortably read by instantly. It does take a minute or two to reach full brightness, but I don't notice. I switched these lamps from incandescent to CFL just a few years ago. The delay in brightness dig bug me a bit for a few days, then I got over it. I think it was just that it was different, not that it was a real problem.

    157. Re:But still... by jeff4747 · · Score: 1

      Gas furnaces for homes are now in the 92-96% efficiency range.

    158. Re:But still... by pugugly · · Score: 1

      Because using an incandescent bulb for 'heating' is about as sensible as recommending a heat lamp for a reading light. At the end of the day sue it's kinda sorta true, but neither one will be as efficient as simply using a separate device known as a 'furnace' or 'lamp' respectively.

      Dumb, bad, and frankly conservative rationalization logic.

      Pug

      --
      An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
    159. Re:But still... by pugugly · · Score: 1

      Umm - that doesn't even make sense.

      An airconditioner cannot effectively 'cool' per se, it merely move heat around from inside a room to outside the room. Whereas of it's pretty easy to convert electrical energy to heat. Accordingly, the efficiency rating of cooling an area below the outside temperature is *always* worse (A *lot* worse IIRC but I don't have the numbers at my fingertips) than heating the same area above the outside temperature. Talk to someone that works in air conditioning.

      Pug

      --
      An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
    160. Re:But still... by pugugly · · Score: 1

      Electric heat is useful for 'spot' heating - we use them in the bedroom in winter as despite the higher price you only need a small area warmed a small bit over the 60 degree's in the rest of the house.

      But yes, propane or something similar is better in general. One of the other stupidities of this "Well Incandescent bulbs provide heat too" theory is, "Great - my basement/attic/hallway closet is warm now. Who cares?"

      Pug

      --
      An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
    161. Re:But still... by mattack2 · · Score: 1

      If you had such bad experiences, you should have at least taken advantage of replacement guarantees or possibly money back guarantees.

      Presumably not all CFLs do, but I've seen many that have very long warranties on them.

      That would still have wasted your time, but at least not your money. (Ignoring interest you could have earned, etc..)

    162. Re:But still... by godel_56 · · Score: 1

      The marginal increase in cost from the cooling is canceled out by the heating gains. That is, for every extra dollar I spend cooling heat that I produced with the light bulbs, I save at least an extra dollar off my heating bill.

      While 1 kWh of lighting produces 1 kWh of heat, a similar amount of power used to run a heat pump or reverse cycle air conditioner produces around 3 kWh worth of heating.

      Waste heat is almost always a second rate heating solution.

    163. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Am I going to be charged for this?

    164. Re:But still... by toddestan · · Score: 1

      You pay to post here?

    165. Re:But still... by labnet · · Score: 1

      Mr C64, Chris is right.
      I'm an EEng.

      Lets say I put a 100uF cap on a 100v 50Hz AC line.
      The reactance is Xc=-1/2piFC = -31.8j
      This requires about 3.2amps of current and uses 320VA of apparent power but 0W of real power.
      See a cap or an inductor is an energy storage device and in an AC system they give back what they take. (Of course in the real world there are no such things as perfect inductors/caps (except for superconductors)).
      They only energy the generator needs to supply are the resistive losses in the transmission system.
      Don't feel too bad though, it's takes a while to your head around reactive power.

       

      --
      46137
    166. Re:But still... by pugugly · · Score: 1

      I just haven't the foggiest what some people do to get such bad results with CFL's unless they just have bad wiring.

      I live in an 1890's farmhouse, in Indiana - hardly a places with no temperature or humidity fluctuations. The wiring was all installed in the 50's-60's (With the exception of the fusebox which was upgraded to a circuitbreaker box last year, and a couple spots we rewired.) or thereabouts, we use CFL's inside outside, on the back porch, in the bathroom, they last for years, they save money.

      We are *starting* to upgrade items to LED bulbs in the areas where we don't need 60+ watts, admittedly in part simply from the experience of upgrading our maglight to an LED bulb and having my niece leave it on in her room . . . for a week . . . two years ago. It's still on the same set of batteries it had then. Needless to say, we were fairly impressed - That's just plain useful.

      But anyway, as long as we're bandying about personal experiences, from what I can tell, CFL's are darn efficient, and nearly as cheap at Costco as incandescent bulbs now - we buy them in ten pack for something like $12 - for what you save, well worth it.

      Pug

      --
      An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
    167. Re:But still... by jabuzz · · Score: 1

      You have equated cost to overall CO2 production, and environmental degradation. This is faulty thinking, I have never claimed it is not cheaper to use CF.

      Personally I would make it mandatory that all houses sold had a minimum level of insulation. In addition I would offer interest free loans to repaid on sale for insulation. Given the average occupancy of a home is a only seven years it should make a real difference relatively quickly.

      Had that been done 15 years ago we would be sitting pretty now.

    168. Re:But still... by jabuzz · · Score: 1

      Indeed I happen to live in Scotland where a significant proportion of electricity is produced is from renewable sources, mainly hydro electricity.

      That further muddies the water for me. Sure if I live in Greece or southern Italy it would be different, but I don't.

      The point is that a lot of effort is being expended on something that is far from clear cut in saving CO2 emissions.

    169. Re:But still... by jabuzz · · Score: 1

      No, I am saying while it costs me more to run, it is far from clear that it causes more environmental degradation (that is CO2 and other pollutants).

    170. Re:But still... by oldhack · · Score: 1

      Because it's "far from clear" that more energy generation causes more pollutant? Stop being a numpty.

      --
      Fuck systemd. Fuck Redhat. Fuck Soylent, too. Wait, scratch the last one.
    171. Re:But still... by fractoid · · Score: 1

      Correct. Unfortunately, CFLs and LEDs are much more expensive upfront. Since I get approximately zero savings for 6 months of the year, the time to recoup is doubled (or, with a fixed horizon, the price differential at the critical point is halved).

      Also, consider people in rental accommodation. There's no way in hell I'm spending $50 on a light bulb that'll last 20 years if I'm moving out at the end of the month.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    172. Re:But still... by RedBear · · Score: 1

      You need to buy better CFLs, it's pretty much that simple. Recent years have seen significant improvements in CFLs in several areas, like warm-up time, temperature tolerance, color, etc.

      Also, use the proper fixture type for cold or damp environments to avoid those problems. Some bulbs are designed specifically to work better in cold environments, but I'm sure a good outdoor sealed enclosure will help a lot. For in-ceiling fixtures, use a CFL specifically designed to work in those fixtures. Usually they are shaped just like the floodlight style incandescent they are replacing. Regular CFLs are not designed to be installed in that sort of enclosure and will get too hot.

      I've seen CFLs with terrible warm-up times, but the good ones currently are pretty much instant-on. They may get slightly brighter after a couple of minutes but after the initial burn-in phase when they are brand new they should always come on at least 90% of total brightness or that brand is crap.

      On the other hand, even with recent improvements CFLs still have some serious drawbacks. After as little as a year even CFLs with decent color quality when new will start exhibiting strong greenish hue as the phosphors change. Doesn't do much good to have a bulb that will supposedly last several years if after just a year or two the colors it throws off make you feel sick every time you turn it on. Unfortunately a lot of CFLs still have terrible color quality even when they're brand new, and it is very difficult to find a CFL that will even have a color temperature indicated on the packaging. I have found some nice ones made by a company called Satco at my local hardware store that come in a 5000K daylight balanced variation which is quite nice. There are also some expensive "full spectrum" CFLs available online. But bottom line the color quality of CFLs mostly sucks.

      Another thing is the brightness slowly fades over the years, unlike an incandescent which will dutifully output close to the rated wattage until the moment it burns out. Doesn't do much good to have a 100-watt equivalent CFL bulb that supposedly lasts several years but turns into a 50-watt equivalent after just a couple of years. Same thing happens with LEDs, unfortunately. They don't just politely burn out at some defined moment in time. I'd say an LED bulb that will supposedly last for 20 years would be pretty much useless after 5 or 8 years due to the dimming effect. I would be very surprised if any of these LED bulbs last even half the rated time without having either half of the diodes die or having the total output of the bulb dimmed to about half of its original capacity. You know when to change an incandescent because it burns out. How will you know when to change out a sloooooowly fading LED bulb? After a few years you'll just have a house that's half as bright as it should be, but because it took years for the fading to occur you'll never notice the difference until you have a new bulb to compare to your old bulbs.

    173. Re:But still... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      CFLs have a power factor of around 0.5, which means they use twice as much power as rated. For example a 15 watt CFL uses 15 watts in your home, but then it uses another 15 watts at the central power plant due to the need to "rebalance" the power and restore the PF to 1.0. TOTAL == 30 volt-amps burned

      Well... first of all it's not twice as much, but even if it was... I only pay for what is used in my house...

      New technologies have allowed folks like GE to build 60 watt incandescants that only use 30 watts while still providing the same brightness. So the net usage is the same as the CFL. No need to abandon the old bulbs.

      That's great, but those things aren't so cheap either (which is the main advantage of incandescent bulbs IMO).

      - CFLs *hate* heat. CFLs hate cold. CFLs hate humidity. CFLs hate dimmers. In practical terms this means CFLs can not be used in 80-90% of present fixtures.

      I'll give you the humidity one, I had one ... bulb similar to CFL (it was a plasma ball thing) and it died in short order being in my bathroom. Then again it had vents on it. But.. I have a CFL in my bathroom now that's been there for... at least a year with no issues.

      I used them in my upside-down ktichen lights - they died 2 months later. I used them outside in my porch light - it worked fine until the temperature dropped below zero, and then refused to light. I used them in my bathroom, and after a shower the humidity killed half of them.

      When I moved into this apartment two years ago, it didn't have any bulbs, so I bought bulbs... ALL CFL, and so every single socket in the house has a CFL, and none of them have failed. In fact, when I went to the store (Sofmap and Yamada), I only had two choices, CFL, and LED.

      I bought a so-called "dimmable CFL" which died 5 minutes after I installed it in my living room dimmer switch. Instead of saving money, I'm wasting it on tons of dead CFLs.

      hmm.. I know nothing about dimmers since no place I have ever lived has had them. Are they so common in the US?

      CFLs hate being turned on and off. Rapid cycling makes them die as quick as an incandescent bulb. So you've spent 5 times as much for a bulb than doesn't last any longer.

      This may well be true, but again I haven't had any of the ones I bought two years ago, and I turn them off every time I leave the house...

      CFLs have a warm-up time. Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing. Turn it on to go down the basement stairs - and you can't see the steps because it's still too dim (a safety hazard).

      This..I noticed, though nowhere near the amount you are saying. The ones I bought turn on *instantly* (unlike the old ones that would buzz and flicker on..), but... maybe only to 80 - 90% brightness. I didn't notice it at first, because I thought it was just maybe my eyes (like if you come in from outdoors and it's sunny things look less bright). After about 30 seconds to a minute, they gradually get brighter though.

      I have about 20 CFLs in my home.
      But I'm gradually phasing them out and replacing them with 25 or 40 watt incandescents.

      I may try the LED bulbs if any of the CFLs ever die...

      I tried to do my part to be green over the last two decades, but it's just not working. The CFLs are not the solution to reduced lighting expenses. Perhaps these new half-power incandescents from GE will provide an answer, or the new LED lights, but CFLs are not it.

      I can say this, I bought some old cheap low wattage CFLs when I lived in the US a few years ago (at like the dollar store or something), and they were really bad, and died very quickly. I think maybe the quality of those things just varies a lot in the US. The ones I bought in Japan are all Panasonic ones, and Zero problems.

    174. Re:But still... by 10Neon · · Score: 1

      As someone in a rental situation... when I move in, I replace the existing bulbs with my own, when I move out, I put the old bulbs back and take my bulbs with me.

      --
      The Guide is definitive. Reality is frequently inaccurate.
    175. Re:But still... by fractoid · · Score: 1

      Good point. I guess I tend to just not be so worried about things like that. I look at money saving as an optimisation problem, if you will - I accept that I can save 90% of my expenditure by reducing the most expensive 10% of my activities. So I don't go to weekend track days or spend $100+ a night on drinks when I go out. Then when I have small expenses I just don't bother with them.

      When compared to a carton of beer a week, buying a $0.90 incandescent bulb every six months isn't worth worrying about. Plus, I like incandescent light. Our eyes evolved in light that comes from things that are very hot. I'd be happy with gas lights if it weren't for the inconvenience.

      --
      Rampant carbon sequestration destroyed the Dinosaurs' tropical paradise. I'm here to help repair the damage.
    176. Re:But still... by roguetrick · · Score: 1

      No, because the incandescent isn't free heat. You're paying for the heat the incandescent releases. If the incandescent wasn't making the heat your furnace would be. If you ignore any inefficiencies, it is zero sum. No net savings.

      --
      -The world would be a better place if everyone had a hoverboard
    177. Re:But still... by 10Neon · · Score: 1

      I don't worry about it for cost reasons. It's more along the lines of, "they're mine, I'm taking them with me!"

      By chance, I happened to buy a set of very "warm" CFs. Someone once compared the light coming from my room, to the light coming from my roommate's room, down the hall, "it's pretty obvious who's using the CF and who isn't, huh?"

      To be fair, it wasn't a comparison between CF and incandescent- he thought mine was the incandescent!

      My personal recommendation: try it out. Maybe read up on which bulbs produce the best light. A lot of parts of our bodies evolved for things we're currently not subjecting them to- it's not necessarily for the worse.

      --
      The Guide is definitive. Reality is frequently inaccurate.
    178. Re:But still... by j-beda · · Score: 1

      Build a man a fire and he is warm for the afternoon - light a man on fire and he is warm for the rest of his life.

    179. Re:But still... by Minimalist360 · · Score: 1

      Energy pricing is different in different places. Also, poster said "silly made up numbers" like 3 times.

    180. Re:But still... by steveo777 · · Score: 1

      No kidding, if it wasn't such a significant initial investment we'd be using LED bulbs in my house 4 months out of the year or more (I like it nice and cool). During the winter we can switch them back. I don't see what's so bad about switching out bulbs two (or more depending on weather) times a year to save some money and some environment.
      For the same reason I don't mind letting my computers idle (as much) during the winter since the wasted energy is quite efficiently transformed into heat and pushed out into the surrounding environment. In the summer I unplug the power strips on everything if I'm going to be gone for more than 12 hours. The Xbox get unplugged if I'll be gone for more than an hour. It's older and that power brick stays pretty warm.

      --
      This sig isn't original enough, it's time to come up with something witty...
    181. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      I'd take your challange with some measures - 1. I provide the CFLs. 2. Outlets are checked for proper voltage/installation/suitability - IE no sockets in series with lights, no putting a 100watt equivalent in a fixture intended for a 40. 3. Somebody installs a home level surge supressor in your house....

      I thought CFLs were supposed to save money??? Your preconditions will result in me spending hundreds of dollars upfront, just so I can switch to CFLs and save ~15 cents per month in lighting costs. It is Not reasonable to expect the 110 million homeowners to go through all that hassle just to save a few pennies each month.

      I say stick with the incandescent Edison bulbs which don't require all that extraneous upgrade cost. They just work.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    182. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      >>>you should have at least taken advantage of replacement guarantees

      Yeah well you know how money-back guarantees work. In almost every case they claimed it was my fault and refused to replace the bulb. No they didn't explain WHY it was my fault - they just said it was. Convenient for them.

      This is similar to what Toyota did a few years ago when Sienna engines were sludging (dying) after only 20-30,000 miles use - they blamed the customer for not making oil changes (even though most customers had dealer records of regular maintenance). This went on for about five years until finally the U.S. government threatened to sue Toyota of America, at which point Toyota finally honored the warranty instead of blaming customers.

      POINT - Just because something is warranted does not means it's honored. And even when it is honored, that doesn't mean much. In one case after I bitched loud enough, the Lights of America manufacturer decided to honor the warranty but they made the assumption I had the bulb turned-on 24 hours a day over six months (even though by my estimate it was more like 3-4 hours a day). Based on that they figured I had used half the lifespan, and returned half my initial cost - $1.50 back. Minus postage costs of 42(?) cents to provide them a copy of my receipt, I basically got a dollar refund on a bulb that originally cost me $3.18.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    183. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      >>>You have to remember that it IS possible to spend so much money on energy efficiency that you'll never see a return on your money

      True but after the oil drought hits and cost rises to $200 or even $300 a barrel, increased energy efficiency will pay itself back very fast. Also I disagree that the PassivHaus won't work in the south. It's based upon the idea of using lots of mass to keep the house at thermal equilibrium, and that principle still applies even in hot Georgia. Once the house's mass is cooled it will stay cool, even on bright sunny days. Yes you might have to upgrade the PassivHaus's current circulating fan with a small 500 watt central air conditioner, but that's still better than the 10,000 watt version in today's Georgia homes.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    184. Re:But still... by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      About 2 years, one of the GE bulbs that I bought caught on fire. It was an R-30 that was in a can. Likewise, we have had 10 GE china-made bulbs die within their first year (include a 180W rated one; expensive bugger to lose). That is a LOT OF BULBS to lose the more so considering how expensive they are.

      Nonsense. Clearly this is YOUR fault not the bulb. Get with the program! Sig heil to the Green Flag! /end sarcasm

      No I understand exactly where you're coming from, expect in my case the bulbs were not cheap. They were Lights of America (made in USA shcokingly) and Philips (made in Germany). People keep trying to blame everything else - me, my power company, my wallet, my alignment with pluto - but that's not the root cause. The root cause is when you hang a bulb upside-down, it will fry its own electronics in the base.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    185. Re:But still... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Let's see, 100 watt bulb, 5 hours a day, 30 days a month would cost me $1.50

      If the replacement is 25 watts*, it'll cost me $.375, saving me $1.125/month. For that one bulb. Hardly 15 cents/month total.

      I have no idea of your power needs. I've put in actual tube flourescents in my two highest traffic areas - the kitchen and living room, they're even more efficient.

      Basically, I think what you're experiencing is pretty unusual, and I'm not going to make a bet without checking for the obvious first. Either you're buying bad lights(solved by ME getting them), or there's a serious problem with your power.

      I'm not talking about a complicated check for the outlet, I'm talking about taking a quick look at it while testing voltage with a multimeter for any WTF problems like my socket in series with a light. At the same time, hit your house up with a more complicated tester to see if the power's spiking or something.

      A building level surge supressor or power conditioner doesn't have to be that expensive, I installed one for less than $100, just to be paranoid.

      *My 100 watt equivalent is 23, but I'll be nice.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    186. Re:But still... by miro+f · · Score: 1

      ahh but the energy you use to run the heater comes from coal, which produces CO2, which traps the heat from the heater (as well as other heat sources), heating up your house ever so slightly.

      In fact you could say your electric heater is more than 100% efficient.

      --
      being vague is almost as cool as doing that other thing...
    187. Re:But still... by mdsolar · · Score: 1

      In the sense that you use the heater less often the longer you use it, then yes. But the light bulb won't be used less because it is not being used for heat.

    188. Re:But still... by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      1. People don't live in calorimeters. The heat given off by light bulbs is quickly dissipated through walls and light fittings, whereas central heating is designed with effectiveness in mind.

      2. Electricity is produced in thermal power plants which have a maximum of 40% efficiency. Additionally, a lot of energy is lost in power lines to get it to your house. A boiler connected to gas piping on the other hand is highly effective.

  2. ROI by polar+red · · Score: 4, Insightful

    $40 still seems pretty pricey for a light bulb,

    one that saves 23$ a year, which lasts a whopping 19 years ? yup, some people are stupid.

    --
    Yes, I'm left. You have a problem with that?
    1. Re:ROI by ShooterNeo · · Score: 4, Interesting

      But compact fluorescents cost $2, save almost as much power/year, and last about 10 years. They are the most cost effective.

    2. Re:ROI by paul248 · · Score: 3, Insightful

      You only save $23 a year if you compare against an incandescent bulb, which is like comparing your car's fuel economy against a school bus. When you compare these bulbs to CFLs, they make much less economic sense, unless you're worried about Mercury pollution.

    3. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

      $40 for a light bulb? dumb investment.
      1) due to accidents, overvoltage or simply moving out of the apartment, a light bulb won't last you 19 years.
      2) would you buy a $40.000 laptop because it comes with 19 years guarantee? what if they come up with something more efficient and cheaper two years from now?

    4. Re:ROI by Pinkfud · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Provided the claim has any base in reality. I have been using CFLs for years, and so far my luck with them has been uniformly bad. They burn out in 3 to 6 months in my application. Possibly my environment is too hot for the electronics inside.

      --
      The world is my oyster. That's why it's always in a stew.
    5. Re:ROI by Hal_Porter · · Score: 1

      Bah, your duty as an overpaid tech geek is to be an early adopter for overpriced ultra high end stuff based on new technologies. That way the volumes go up and everyone else can afford it. By which point you've moved on. It's the circle of life.

      --
      echo -e 'global _start\n _start:\n mov eax, 2\n int 80h\n jmp _start' > a.asm; nasm a.asm -f elf; ld a.o -o a;
    6. Re:ROI by DDLKermit007 · · Score: 3, Insightful

      10 years? I've yet to have the spiral CCFLs last over 1.5 years.

    7. Re:ROI by Techman83 · · Score: 1

      Not great for renters/share houses. Personally I when I rented, my CFL's came with me, but sometimes you don't have the luxury of being able to do that.

      --
      # cat /dev/mem | strings | grep -i cat
      Damn, my RAM is full of cats. MEOW!!
    8. Re:ROI by polar+red · · Score: 4, Informative

      I have only CFL's in my house. not one of them has broken since i moved in in june last year. 3 of those i brought with me from my previous house, which i have i used there for nearly 5 years.

      --
      Yes, I'm left. You have a problem with that?
    9. Re:ROI by Kumiorava · · Score: 3, Interesting

      In a lamp test by a Finnish magazine the 3 EUR fluorescent lamp died at 3000 hours. The more expensive ones are still going on but starting to show longer warming times, stains/cracks and other problems. In addition to these problems fluorescents are hazardous waste and should be recycled. At 10x longer lifespan the LED light sounds like a good deal to me.

    10. Re:ROI by shadowblaster · · Score: 1

      I would bet that the first generation commercial incandescents and CFLs probably cost about the same if not more in real terms.

      Like any other technology, LED bulb will go down in price as they mature and economy of scale effect kicks in.

    11. Re:ROI by johnlcallaway · · Score: 1, Troll

      A 60 watt bulb burning for 5.5 hours a day uses about 120KWH a year. My non-peak electricity (i.e. night time when I would be using the lights) is $0.063/kwh. That math is $7.60/YEAR for electricity. Electric rates would have to be almost $0.18US, which is my peak rate during the summer months (it drops to about $0.086US for what passes for winter in Phoenix.) So a 6watt LED bulb would use 1/10th of electricity, saving around $7/year.And I doubt if more than 3 of the incandescent bulbs are used more than 4-5 hours on average a night.

      I just bought a pack of ten 60 watt bulbs for $3. So each bulb is an upfront cost of $39.70 whenever a bulb burns out, and has a payback of over 5 years. I'm not going to keep a pack of 10 around the house, I'm going to go out and have to buy one whenever a bulb burns out. I have lived in my house now for 6 years, and just ran out of my first pack.I have a few CFLs in drawers because I don't like them, and about half of the lights we use the most are florescent.

      Unless these LED lights can be used in dimmers, I won't buy them because it makes all of my dimmers (three of which are wireless RF in high ceiling fans) useless. Which is another reason I don't buy CFLs. I assume the LEDs will work in dimmers, although the article doesn't state that.

      I just replaced my refrigerator because the old one finally died, and using a Kill-A-Watt meter found out it uses about $5/month in electricity. I didn't buy a high-efficiency fridge to save money on electricity, I bought a fridge that happens to be a high-efficiency fridge because it has two separate compressors that keep food SOOO much better. We are throwing out far less food now because things don't get freezer burn and produce doesn't go bad as quickly. And it's bigger, uses LED lights so it's brighter inside, and has some cool drawers and shelves that make it easier to get to the food.

      I will spend money on things that are efficient, as long as the efficiencies are worth it to me. An ROI of 5 years on a light bulb isn't worth it because I can't 'see' the savings, it's buried in my electric bill which seems to keep going up and up. I've bought enough long-life light bulbs and other items in my life that didn't last to have little trust in such claims. Spending $2,400 on a refrigerator was worth it because I realized the gains immediately in food savings, something much easier to see.

      --
      I rarely read replies, it's my opinion and if you thought about your opinion a little more, I'm OK with that.
    12. Re:ROI by jklovanc · · Score: 1

      CFs use $3 yr more power than the LED (13W instead of 6.9W) and you need 2 of them for 20 years so the cost would be 3*19 +2*2 = $65; still more than the $40 cost of the bulb.

    13. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      one that saves 23$ a year, which lasts a whopping 19 years ? yup, some people are stupid.

      Most LED bulbs have different spectrum of output, with strong blue peak, that can damage eyes after long use. I wonder how the ophthalmologist bills balance this another way. But of course, you wouldn't know that, some people are stupid.

    14. Re:ROI by Hal_Porter · · Score: 1

      My family rent houses out to students. We fitted CFL lights in all the places where you need a ladder to change them for obvious reasons. It seems like some CFL bulbs fail really quickly - much sooner than you'd expect based on the rated life. Still you can RMA them and get a new bulb for free. Sooner or later it seems like you get good ones, and they do have the expected life.

      Still, my guess is that LED bulbs should in the long run be more efficient and have longer lifespans.

      --
      echo -e 'global _start\n _start:\n mov eax, 2\n int 80h\n jmp _start' > a.asm; nasm a.asm -f elf; ld a.o -o a;
    15. Re:ROI by Firehed · · Score: 5, Informative

      The bulb in TFA (I know, I know... but it wasn't in TFS) is rated 6.9w consumption, and is presumably the 60w-equivalent referenced in the summary. Most "60w" CFLs take around 12-15w if memory serves - so these LED bulbs are about twice as efficient. Save $23/yr for 19 years vs $12/yr for 5 years (you say 10, but they're usually rated to five and I've almost never seen one last more than two; they seem very sensitive to older wiring). It pays for itself in less than two years compared to an incandescent, and in four compared to a CFL.

      Of course, that's all assuming they actually last that long. I don't doubt the power consumption ratings, but as I said I've never seen a CFL last anywhere near it's rated life. My understanding is that they have a limited number of starts due to the ignition ballast (which is external to the bulb in standard fluorescent tubes); I'd assume that if you have older wiring or other factors that may cause frequent power sags you'll burn through those starts unusually fast. That seems to be the case at my house, or would at least make some degree of sense to me. I could be dead wrong about the reasoning, but CFLs unquestionably die faster than incandescent bulbs around here. Hopefully this isn't an issue with LED bulbs.

      --
      How are sites slashdotted when nobody reads TFAs?
    16. Re:ROI by polar+red · · Score: 4, Insightful

      accidents, overvoltage or simply moving out of the apartment

      accidents : LED's are VERY durable.
      overvoltage : do you live in a third world country ?
      moving out : take them with you

      19 years

      more efficient : maybe OLED's, and they're not market-ready. And 2 years from now means I allready have my investment + 6$ back.

      --
      Yes, I'm left. You have a problem with that?
    17. Re:ROI by lazybeam · · Score: 4, Interesting

      CFLs in my house have died within a year: the ones installed in the bathroom and kitchen. They don't like the humidity and heat which is why I'm not surprised. The others have lasted since Feb 2007. Brands don't seem to matter.

      --
      --
      no sig for you. come back one year.
    18. Re:ROI by xaxa · · Score: 1

      I bought some cheap (£2, 1W, 30W equivalent) LED bulbs. They claim to last 15000 hours, after that long the box says they'll keep working, but won't be as bright.

    19. Re:ROI by lazybeam · · Score: 1

      In theory LEDs don't care about how many times they are switched. Normal LEDs are dimmed by adjusting the PWM - they are switched thousands of times per second - this is more efficient than simply using a bigger series resistor.

      I say "in theory" because these LEDs could be different to "normal" LEDs. (Driver circuitry etc)

      --
      --
      no sig for you. come back one year.
    20. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      $40 still seems pretty pricey for a light bulb,

      one that saves 23$ a year, which lasts a whopping 19 years ? yup, some people are stupid.

      I say this is bullshit. They will never last this long. There are no lab condiditions in customers' homes. 19 are a long time and a lot can happen. Sure put them in a dry, temperature-regulated box and operate them in ideal on-off cycles and they might last 19 years. They won't in the real world though.

    21. Re:ROI by Threni · · Score: 1

      there is no such Eu law. that's a myth, like much of the nonsense about health and safety. unless of course you can find a credible source.

    22. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What are you even talking about?

    23. Re:ROI by jonbryce · · Score: 1

      Don't use the cheap rubbish your electricity company sent you. Get some decent ones, and you will find they light up a lot quicker.

    24. Re:ROI by Plekto · · Score: 1, Informative

      I've yet to have the spiral CCFLs last over 1.5 years.

      Same here. They can last that long in theory, but the ballasts go dead in a year or two. If a LED works like it should, it will be ballast-free and actually last until the thing burns itself to a crisp inside.(ie - failure from wearing out vs defect)

      Also, don't underestimate the benefit to the utility companies which have to generate extra power for CF bulbs vs other technologies. Less load means less brownouts and so on. If these are full-wave, in fact, they will use less than half the energy of a CF, looked at this way.

    25. Re:ROI by jonbryce · · Score: 1

      The issue with LED bulbs is that they fade when they get older.

      Look at the LEDs on your keyboard. If you are like most people with a desktop machine, the num lock is on all the time, and you never use the scroll lock. Even after a year, the scroll lock light will be about twice as bright as the num lock light.

    26. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Dimmable CFLs do exist.

      http://www.google.com/search?q=dimmable+cfl

    27. Re:ROI by jonbryce · · Score: 1

      I guess mercury pollution is preferable to arsenic pollution.

    28. Re:ROI by xaxa · · Score: 1

      I have only CFL's in my house.

      Do you spend the first two minutes after entering a room and turning on the lights, blundering around and bumping into things?

      15 years ago I could have done, only, not really. Not in the last 10 years though, and not even with the £1 Asda bulbs in the last 5 years.

      Oh well, when my incandescents blow, I'll be in the same boat, thanks to EU law.

      Before blaming the EU for everything, perhaps check how the UK MEPs voted.

    29. Re:ROI by !coward · · Score: 1

      I believe you're making the same mistake people made regarding plasma TVs earlier in the year. When the EU passed those Community Directives (or whatever it is they're called) it was mostly about efficiency, ie not wasting (too much) energy. IIRC, they didn't actually forbid any product per se.

      Of course, the practical effect was that older plasmas (which were huge power-hogs) and "standard" incandescent lightbulbs became effectively verboten. But just like with newer plasma techologies (which now place them, in terms of average consumption, pretty close to same-year/same-generation LCDs and even lower when compared to earlier models [even LED LCDs can't lower backlight that much, so the rated maximum consumption is very close to the average, whereas maximum consumption on plasmas is the power used with an all-white screen when the brightness is set to max, which is far from the typical setting]), there are newer types of incandescent lightbulbs being produced (or at least they were announced) that would be a lot more efficient, still be "genuinely" incandescent, and priced competitively with both older incandescent and CFLs (something to do with a double-enclosure or something). These would be OK under the new european guidelines.

      Now, about these EverLed: they seem to be offering two versions for each model. Original link FTA, or (if you're like me and can't read japanese), the Babelfish translation. Scroll down to the bottom of the page.

      It seems they have the typical cold/blue/super-white version as well as a warm/yellowish one.

      Around my house, we mostly use the "cold"/bland-whiteish CFL variety. Only in my "studio" (which is really just the glorified inverse of a basement -- ie, it used to be the attic before we did the renovations) do I use efficient, read low-powered, "warm" CFLs.

      Though they don't bother me like they seem to do with some people (something about the frequency?!), the light is always a bit dim (with both types) and figuring out the difference between dark shades (of say gray or brown) and black is a real pain -- the spectrum reflected back at you just seems off, if you know what I mean.

      Still, they do the job for the most part, end up lasting long enough to be worth the investment and give me that stupid warm fuzzy feeling inside of not being an energy hog.

      Interestingly, the translated version of Panasonic's product page does have this to say:

      The LED illumination which works the light of 16,700,000 color, the magnificent é¾ milk cave, is easy, the light/write raises fantastically.

      Next to a picture of a man using one of these EverLed to light up a cave.. I wonder what they mean by 16,7M colors? The cave does look very "natural" in that light but I hesitate to trust any promotional photo.

    30. Re:ROI by mlts · · Score: 2, Insightful

      There are places where the cost to reach a light bulb to change it is prohibitive. It could be theater marquee lights, lights atop a vaulted ceiling, or places behind a recessed opening that takes a lot of disassembly to get to. So even though $40 might be expensive up front, not having to set up scaffolding 30-40 feet up to get to some fixtures is worth it to some.

    31. Re:ROI by jcr · · Score: 1

      But compact fluorescents cost $2, save almost as much power/year, and last about 10 years.

      Best I've ever gotten from a CFL is about two years. Where can you find any with that kind of service life?

      -jcr

      --
      The only title of honor that a tyrant can grant is "Enemy of the State."
    32. Re:ROI by L4t3r4lu5 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      It's unwritten law that you don't take the lightbulbs when you move house; It's just being a cheapskate. Like taking the carpets, or the hooks off the back of doors. My parents have had to walk around with candles before now because the idiot who sold the house too every bulb, and this was before the time of 24 hour shopping in the UK. They had to drag boxes out in front of the car to see what was in them.

      I swear to God if anybody does that to me when I'm moving into the house they've sold, I'm turning up at their forwarding address and peeing in their letterbox.

      --
      Finally had enough. Come see us over at https://soylentnews.org/
    33. Re:ROI by jcr · · Score: 0

      overvoltage : do you live in a third world country ?

      What, only third world countries have lightning now?

      -jcr

      --
      The only title of honor that a tyrant can grant is "Enemy of the State."
    34. Re:ROI by am+2k · · Score: 1

      Fluorescent lights don't work for places where the light is switched on/off frequently, like toilets or corridors at home. LEDs are perfect for those.

    35. Re:ROI by PeterBrett · · Score: 1

      I swear to God if anybody does that to me when I'm moving into the house they've sold, I'm turning up at their forwarding address and peeing in their letterbox.

      Even if they leave you a very polite note explaining that since they paid $40 per bulb for their LED bulbs they (quite reasonably) wanted to take them with them?

      (What I would do if swapping to LED bulbs would be to put the bulbs I take out in a box somewhere and reinstate them when leaving.)

    36. Re:ROI by AuMatar · · Score: 2, Interesting

      And what's a little mercury pollution? Its not like that stuffs harmful.

      I'll take LEDs any day over a CFL. I refuse to switch to those, they're just too hazardous for home use. I'll go to leds when the color temperature works out, until then its good old incandecents.

      --
      I still have more fans than freaks. WTF is wrong with you people?
    37. Re:ROI by gpsxsirus · · Score: 1

      I bought some CFL's for my apartment. Put them in the two pole lamps in my living room. Turn the first one on and the bulb blew out on me. My brother then without thinking turned the other lap on (a touch lamp) and that one blew out. Turns out they don't play nice with lamps that have dimmer settings, which is ALL of my lamps. Also the touch lamp now only has two settings on and off. On is when the lamp is plugged in, off is when you unplug the lamp. Was brand new too.

    38. Re:ROI by Fred_A · · Score: 1

      $40 still seems pretty pricey for a light bulb,

      one that saves 23$ a year, which lasts a whopping 19 years ? yup, some people are stupid.

      Not to mention that if you leave it off, it should last indefinitely ! Which means you save... Um, wait that's a tricky one, let me get back to you on that

      --

      May contain traces of nut.
      Made from the freshest electrons.
    39. Re:ROI by beelsebob · · Score: 2, Informative

      Don't buy bulbs from IKEA... I have no idea how they make their bulbs so shit, but honestly, they are.

    40. Re:ROI by jabuzz · · Score: 2, Informative

      Yes there is, the manufacture and importation of incandescent lightbulbs at 100W and over into the E.U. is now illegal.

    41. Re:ROI by 91degrees · · Score: 1

      But you only need it for 2 years before you've gained on the deal. The main light (CFL) in my living room has lasted since I moved in, 3 years ago. And most organisations will factor in the lifetime cost (including cost of changing the bulbs) when purchasing lightbulbs.

    42. Re:ROI by MichaelSmith · · Score: 3, Interesting

      (What I would do if swapping to LED bulbs would be to put the bulbs I take out in a box somewhere and reinstate them when leaving.)

      Yeah I would put cheap globes in too. On a different but related note I have a relative who, when he inspected a house he was buying would hide items which he wanted to own, then retrieve them after taking the place over.

    43. Re:ROI by amRadioHed · · Score: 1

      I don't see any difference between any of the keyboard lights on the several year old laptop I'm using. I guess YMMV.

      --
      We hope your rules and wisdom choke you / Now we are one in everlasting peace
    44. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0, Troll

      bullshit. compact fluorescents cost about AU$10 each in supermarkets where I live, compared to $0.99 each for incandescent bulbs.
      And despite the claims that CF lights last longer, they fucking cark it all the time. usually in rooms where they're turned on and off a lot. eg toilets, bathrooms, hallways. For smaller form factor CFL globes (for example to fit in lamps etc) they charge around $15 each. If these new LED ones really do last 19 times longer, then it's worth it for anyone with even a little bit of forward-thinking.

      The main problem with these LED lights is that I'm scared of seeing them directly even out of my peripheral vision because they all seem to have warnings of blindness written on them.

    45. Re:ROI by polar+red · · Score: 1

      It's unwritten law that you don't take the lightbulbs when you move house;

      also the ones in standing lamps ? or bureau lamps ?

      --
      Yes, I'm left. You have a problem with that?
    46. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How about a normal light bulb running for over a hundred years?
      Centennial Bulb

    47. Re:ROI by amRadioHed · · Score: 1

      Are you serious? A laptop would have to last at least 80 years to be worth $40,000. That's the worse comparison I've seen today.

      --
      We hope your rules and wisdom choke you / Now we are one in everlasting peace
    48. Re:ROI by davmoo · · Score: 1

      You've got them to last 1.5 years? I'm doing good to get 6 months to a year. What's your secret?

      --
      I want a new quote. One that won't spill. One that don't cost too much. Or come in a pill.
    49. Re:ROI by polar+red · · Score: 1

      lightning is not that common.

      --
      Yes, I'm left. You have a problem with that?
    50. Re:ROI by jonbryce · · Score: 1

      Does your laptop have a separate numeric keypad? If not, you probably hardly ever use the numlock, so it won't fade so quickly.

    51. Re:ROI by tapanitarvainen · · Score: 1

      I've never seen a CFL last anywhere near it's rated life.

      I have some that have lasted over 10 years now, and I haven't actually seen a single one die in my current apartment (in 8 years). Maybe they are indeed sensitive to wiring; variation does seem big at any rate.

    52. Re:ROI by beelsebob · · Score: 1

      This is a 7W bulb, replacing a 60W one, based on that, we're saving $0.43 per year per watt, and that this bulb is costing us $3.04 a year.

      Over 190 years (because it's the least common multiple of 19 and 10):
      LED bulb: $40 * 10 + $3.04 * 190 = $977.60
      CFL bulb (14W usually replaces a 60W bulb): $2 * 19 + $6.08 * 190 = $1193.20
      For the sake of fun 60W incandescent: $1 * 190 + $26.04 * 190 = $5137.60

      Conclusion: Yes, it's close, but the LED bulb is more cost effective, not the CFL. Given that this is the very first LED bulb that's usable for this job, I imagine it's price will drop a chunk still, so looks like panasonic are really on a winner with this one :).

      Note: this is even assuming your 10 year estimate for CFLs is accurate, I've had plenty fail a lot earlier than that. Having said that, I've also had some supposed 50 year LED bulbs fail after about 6 months, so swings and roundabouts.

    53. Re:ROI by mspohr · · Score: 2, Informative

      Don't know what your problem is but I replaced all the bulbs in my house with Ikea CFLs and not one has failed in three years. They all are 'instant on' and have a nice color temperature.

      --
      I don't read your sig. Why are you reading mine?
    54. Re:ROI by mspohr · · Score: 2, Informative

      In Switzerland it's standard procedure to take everything when you move out of an apartment... curtains, blinds, light fixtures, bulbs. I found this a bit odd but they are very frugal here.

      --
      I don't read your sig. Why are you reading mine?
    55. Re:ROI by Eunuchswear · · Score: 1

      It's unwritten law that you don't take the lightbulbs when you move house; It's just being a cheapskate.

      Tell me about it! The bastards who were in my last flat before me took the fucking light sockets not just the bulbs!

      --
      Watch this Heartland Institute video
    56. Re:ROI by KlaasVaak · · Score: 1

      Independent testing shows time and time again that LED lamps produces less lux than adversed They don't actually last for 19 years. The lamp itself will but the LED lights also need a bunch of resistors and other electrical components to function, these last considerably less long and if they fail the whole lamp fails. Also LED lamps are heat sensitive too high temperatures and they fail so you better be careful with your led lamp since you just invested 40$ in them. I say the reservations of the public are entirely justified given how flexible with the truth the LED industry has been.

      --
      Dyslexics are teople poo
    57. Re:ROI by digitig · · Score: 1

      Why is that modded troll? It's a significant issue with CFLs -- they need time to warm up, so in rooms one pacces through rather than rests in (eg, hallways and landings) one is out of the room again before they're bright enough to be much use.

      --
      Quidnam Latine loqui modo coepi?
    58. Re:ROI by digitig · · Score: 1
      --
      Quidnam Latine loqui modo coepi?
    59. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Do you spend the first two minutes after entering a room and turning on the lights, blundering around and bumping into things?

      It depends on the kind of lights used...

      Rapid start lights take some time to reach full brightness...

      http://members.misty.com/don/f-lamp.html#fb2

    60. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Who needs 19 years when the world will end in 2012?
      I'll stick with CFLs, and use the savings to party like it's 1999.

    61. Re:ROI by gpsxsirus · · Score: 1

      Yes yes, I know there are dimable CFL bulbs. But most people don't know there are some that don't work well with dimming lamps. Which is most modern lamps.

      And while I know they exsist, they're not sold the stores I've checked locally.

    62. Re:ROI by couchslug · · Score: 1

      "overvoltage : do you live in a third world country ?"

      No, I live in a first world country where power is subject to events such as lightning strikes, and I live in an area where power lines are sometimes taken out by storms or vehicles hitting the poles.

      --
      "This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
    63. Re:ROI by dbIII · · Score: 1

      Unfortunately you are talking about the sort of bulbs designed to run in the warm south of China on 240V and instead to be a cheapskate they are being used at 110V where it is cold.
      The answer is to get the right sort of CFL bulb or an LED one which is what the article is about.
      That sort of law was passed in Australia by an utter idiot that forgot about lights in ovens and other places where CFL and LED lights will not work. The conservative side of politics really likes to absolutely forbid things even when they try to wander onto the green side of the fence. That utter idiot is of course the conservative hope for the next leader of Australia and will not be replaced in time for the election.

    64. Re:ROI by Danathar · · Score: 1

      Um..19 years of continuous use. So for all practical purposes probably 3 time that or more in normal use.

    65. Re:ROI by zazzel · · Score: 1, Flamebait

      "I have only CFL's in my house."

      I certainly do not want to visit your house, then. Thanks, most ppl with spiral CFLs are just mad and would be better off living in a dark room.

      My light requirements are:
      1. Immediate 100% brightness. I have stairs! I am combining 2 7-W-CFLs with one 40-W bulb, just so that nobody gets hurt. The CFLs still suck, since their light is not nearly as bright as the 40W bulb - that is, in the 5 minutes until the timer turns them off again.
      2. My living rooms are for living. I need comfortable light. You can stop thinking about CFLS from here (I have two 28W-daylight-CFLs in my home office - daylight CFLS, costing about 28 euros each. Good light for office work).
      3. Dimming capability. My living room has a 3x75W G9 uplight, and I will not replace it.
      4. And yes, I have LED lights: 8x Cree Q5 LEDs (21W/1440 lm) in the hall. Not comfortable, but far brighter (!) than one 100W conventional bulb. Since I used a cheap notebook adapter for the 19V they require, the light is still not immediately on (startup delay).

      So you see, I *am* experimenting with energy saving light sources, but there's nothing above halogen bulbs, with the pure-white LEDs coming in second (problems: expensive, "yellow" light means low efficiency, good power sources required, dimming by PWM is not cheap and hard to implement in most situations).

      If you look at the big picture: my 46" LCD is a bigger energy drain than all light sources combined, especially if you look at the daily usage.

    66. Re:ROI by dbIII · · Score: 1

      Low voltage and cold weather means you can't get away with cheap CFL bulbs designed for hot weather and 240V. I've never even seen them warm up.

    67. Re:ROI by sFurbo · · Score: 3, Informative

      Whoa, there, if you go from 60W to 6,9W you save 53W, if you go from 60W to 15W you save 45W, if saving 53W saves you 23$/y, saving 45W will save you 19,5$/y. But it still pays for itself in 10 years, a bit less if you take into account the price of the CFL.

    68. Re:ROI by BenevolentP · · Score: 1

      Strange. I have one in my bathroom, no enclosure (straight in the socket) on the wall. Lights up completely in about 2 seconds, cost 1.95 Euro (discounter brand, "Aldi") and hangs there now for 4 years. Its a small bathroom, too, so it gets pretty humid every morning when i shower.
      Anecdotal evidence, i know, but of all of the energy saving bulbs (6) i installed when i moved in 4 years ago, a total of 2 have died so far.
      It pays to buy good quality bulbs, which don't have to be necessarily expensive.

    69. Re:ROI by stupid_is · · Score: 1
      My work keyboard is at least 5 years old

      Num lock: always on

      Caps lock: RARELY ON :)

      Scroll lock: never on

      Just turned them all on and it would seem that CAPS is brighter than NUM is brighter than SCROLL

      Maybe it's the housing...

      --
      -- Intelligence is soluble in alcohol
    70. Re:ROI by Hammer · · Score: 1

      Incandescent bulbs 100W+ are illegal to sell and over the next couple of years incandescent bulbs 25W + will be fazed out too in stages.

    71. Re:ROI by MojoRilla · · Score: 1

      Hazardous waste? Shrug.

      Yes, you should recycle them because they have mercury. And, at least for the US, because of the power savings CFL's save more mercury (due to power plant emissions) than they would release even thrown out into normal land fills.

    72. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yeah, but isn't the return you make on the drugs worth it + there's less chance of helicopters with IR cameras seeing the hothouse in your roof when you use CFLs

    73. Re:ROI by stupid_is · · Score: 1
      Hah - I laugh at your cheap $40K laptop.

      Some folks will buy all sorts of weird shit

      --
      -- Intelligence is soluble in alcohol
    74. Re:ROI by digitig · · Score: 1

      I'm using the best ones available in local stores, so I expect my experience to be widespread (and indeed, I have seen a lot of complaints online about this very issue)

      Incidentally, where are you finding those bulbs designed for 240v? The nominal voltage across Europe (including the UK) has been 230v since 1998, so even if in practice the UK electricity supply companies are still delivering 240v (it's within the permitted tolerance) it's unlikely to be the design voltage of bulbs as the manufacturers will want to sell to the wider market.

      --
      Quidnam Latine loqui modo coepi?
    75. Re:ROI by vlm · · Score: 4, Funny

      Brands don't seem to matter.

      If decades have mottos, that should be the motto of the "00s".
      Since everything comes from the same factory in China, brands no longer matter.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    76. Re:ROI by eturro · · Score: 1

      The bulb in TFA (I know, I know... but it wasn't in TFS) is rated 6.9w consumption, and is presumably the 60w-equivalent referenced in the summary. Most "60w" CFLs take around 12-15w if memory serves - so these LED bulbs are about twice as efficient. Save $23/yr for 19 years vs $12/yr for 5 years

      If the consumption of a LED is half the consumption of a CFL, that doesn't mean you save twice as much per year. In the CFL case you save 45-50W-worth relative to an incandescent bulb and in the LED case you save 53.1W-worth. So you only save slightly more per year by using LED instead of CFL in terms of electricity consumption.

    77. Re:ROI by maxume · · Score: 1

      Try comparing the energy you use for lighting to the energy you use for heating and cooling (living in some areas may moderate this energy use a great deal; Canadians, Scandinavians, and such, unless they have recently moved into a very efficient house, are using enormous amounts of energy for heating, just as many living in the American south are using it for cooling).

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    78. Re:ROI by walshy007 · · Score: 1

      same here, been using this desktop keyboard for about seven years, only rebooting for new kernels, num lock always on, just put caps lock on and they are the same brightness.

    79. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      CFLs work best when you can turn them on and leave them on for a long time. If you are constantly turning them on and off or leaving them on for something less then like 15 minutes the life of the bulb is drastically reduced. YMMV, but the bathroom and kitchen would be two of the most likely rooms where the lights would be on frequently but not for very long amounts of time.

      The question is do these LED lamps suffer from the same problem? If not then they would be a suitable alternative to CFLs in some instances.

    80. Re:ROI by citizenr · · Score: 1

      Two words: soft start
      Cheap ones dont have it.

      --
      Who logs in to gdm? Not I, said the duck.
    81. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      Many ceiling fixtures are enclosed. I find the electronics burn out very quickly, even when it isn't recessed (which is usually explicitly listed as a no-no). Only when I use one undersized for the purpose do I get them to actually last. Otherwise, the incandescent bulbs outlast them by a large margin.

    82. Re:ROI by Kagetsuki · · Score: 1

      Fluorescent light bothers my eyes and the color-corrected bulbs make everything look weird. I use a combination of incandescent and diffused LED lighting in my office and I find it a pretty good combination. I'm looking forward to see how the light color comes out on these new bulbs from Panasonic, if they look natural enough/don't bother my eyes I'll probably be using them to replace my incandescent bulbs.

    83. Re:ROI by Kagetsuki · · Score: 1

      Your LEDs are of very low quality or you have too much current being passed through them which is over-stressing them. Even cheaper LEDs, if of a reasonable quality, won't fade measurably for years. I guess you are just purchasing cheap keyboards from manufacturers who decided to cut costs by using the worst LEDs they could find.

    84. Re:ROI by Kagetsuki · · Score: 1

      Even when compared against CFLs they seem to stack up reasonably well, some people ran the numbers in posts above you.

    85. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 3, Informative

      In the US (well, the parts I've paid attention to) "real property" is the land and anything attached to it. If you can lift it and carry it out (with or without help) with nothing more than disconnecting it from utilities (or something like a dryer vent) then it not part of the real property. So you take the counter-top microwave with you, but not the one above the stove. You can take your fridge and washer/dryer, but not the dish washer. Stoves that slide out can be taken as well. In practice, the stove is left in place. The refrigerators are usually left as well, but not washer/dryers. It is a violation of the terms of sale for all standard sale agreements to take bulbs. If they were replaced with incandescents, no one would probably notice, but it would still be "illegal" to take them. If the sockets were left empty, I would expect that the buyer would press the issue. It's rude and a violation of contract to remove anything "secured" to the grounds, and you have to unscrew them to take them, so they are part of the real property. Blinds and curtain hardware are attached with screws or the like, and thus are also left, by law, in most of the US. The curtain fabric itself can be removed. Light fixtures must remain. Though, in the US, unlike the rest of the world, you can sign away what's guaranteed you by law, so you can make the buyer agree that you'll be taking them in direct contradiction to the law.

    86. Re:ROI by Runaway1956 · · Score: 1

      Right - the bulbs last forever. Except, they DON'T!

      Those CFL's that are supposed to last 5 to 10 years tend to burn out before the first year. The LED's that are supposed to last 10 to 20 years do a little better, but I've replaced them. Some have lasted as little as 2 years, others 5 years.

      Keep in mind, these things weren't around 20 years ago. Maybe - oh - 12 years ago, possibly 15 I first started noticing the things on heavy trucks. Only 3 or 4 years ago, they started hitting the market bigtime in flashlights and such. They've been in computers and various displays a little longer. The wife's "Alien" computer has about six of those things in it, two are burnt out - at about 4 years of age.

      If quality control were reliable, I might agree with those "cost savings". Since QC sucks, I simply do NOT see those savings everyone talks about.

      One of the networks ran a thing during the news hour on those CFL's, showing that my experience is about normal.

      --
      "Windows is like the faint smell of piss in a subway: it's there, and there's nothing you can do about it." - Charlie Br
    87. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So this only proves that you can't get a Mercedes with the price of a Lada.

      Not only fluorescents should be recycled, they MUST be recycled.

    88. Re:ROI by vlm · · Score: 1

      same here, been using this desktop keyboard for about seven years, only rebooting for new kernels, num lock always on, just put caps lock on and they are the same brightness.

      Because your LEDs are pure plain red or green, and his are "white" phosphor based and the phosphor wears out. Or he works in an areas of high ionizing radiation. No, more likely its just phosphor degradation.

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_LED_failure_modes

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    89. Re:ROI by vlm · · Score: 1

      The main problem with these LED lights is that I'm scared of seeing them directly even out of my peripheral vision because they all seem to have warnings of blindness written on them.

      No more dangerous than halogens. About two decades ago I got "snow blindness" off a walmart Chinese made halogen lamp that had a perfectly good UV filter at the output, but the bulb "cage" was made out of wire screen for cooling... UV flowed out of the screened area. Itchy eyes every time I used it for a half day or so, thought it was just stinky overheated insulation or plain old coincidence, eventually figured it out, and threw out the lamp, problem solved.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    90. Re:ROI by Kagetsuki · · Score: 1

      If lightning hit your house and you had no protection/conditioning circuitry ANY light or device you have plugged in is at serious risk anyway, so what the hell is your point? In Japan power is conditioned both on the line and at the breaker. I have never seen or heard of equipment being damaged due to power issues, and that includes my building being hit by lightning last year which resulted in nothing more than a 5 minute brown out while the power conditioning system reset itself. Perhaps your country isn't as first world as you assumed it was. As for over-voltage, LEDs have an efficiency peak which will essentially always be under the voltage they can safely handle. A generic red LED for example will often run at high efficiency at 2.0 to 2.2V but will be able to take up to 3.2V before encountering an accelerated wear/damage cycle (burn out). Furthermore I seriously doubt there is no protection and filtration circuitry. Running any motor or other inductive/reactive/dynamic load on a circuit will dramatically alter its electrical characteristics, and such devices are not uncommon on AC circuits to begin with. I have a feeling voltage/current fluctuation has been taken into account to a reasonable degree just like every other DC device you use in your house.

    91. Re:ROI by toppavak · · Score: 2, Interesting

      The problem with CCFL's is that short duty-cycle usage shortens their lifetimes. This makes them great for things like porch lighting, living rooms etc where they'll be on for hours at a time, but poor for things like bathrooms where they may be on for 10 minutes at a time tops. When used in situations that extend their lifetimes, CCFLs are indeed much more cost-effective than LEDs are currently, but as is usually the case, a mixed application of both will always be the winner. Also, I've noticed (in a very unscientific study) that some of the slightly more expensive brands of CCFLs actually do give more consistent performance in the long run.

    92. Re:ROI by ThreeGigs · · Score: 1

      one that saves 23$ a year, which lasts a whopping 19 years ? yup, some people are stupid.

      Not just ONE. Unless you think Joe Average has only 100 watt light bulbs which each burn 8 hours a day.

      How many kWh do you think the average home uses for lighting? Even at 2 kWh per day, and 10 cents per kWh, that's only $73 per year. And that lighting is spread over many bulbs. So the ROI calculation is more like $400 to replace the 10 most used bulbs, which will save $23 per year (of a $32 average lighting bill)[citation needed].

    93. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A 7W LED bulb is not "60W equivalent", unless you compare it to dimmed incandescent bulbs, which are horribly inefficient even in comparison to incandescent bulbs at full brightness. Manufacturers should simply state total lumen on the package. In Europe they will be compelled to list that and more starting September 2010.

      LED efficiency has recently surpassed that of CFLs in the lab, but those are typically "daylight" LEDs and, even if you're willing to tolerate the bluish light, they are not yet in mass production. The rule of thumb for LEDs and CFLs is five times more light per watt than normal incandescents, four compared to halogen bulbs. Cheap LED bulbs don't come close to a factor of 5 due to bad reflector design and cut-cost electronics.

    94. Re:ROI by dbIII · · Score: 1

      Incidentally, where are you finding those bulbs designed for 240v

      They are made in China for the Chinese market (240V), sold cheaply and then hapless Americans buy them at Walmart and run them at 110V. It sounds like the cold startup or poorly designed starters is your issue. It may be lower electrical certification standards that let in bulbs that do not work very well.
      I've seen a lot of complaints online as well but never seen the problem. A relative that is an electrical engineer who originally worked with valve circuits pointed out the 110V, temperature problem and low quality starters. Conventional flouro lights had many of those problems early on.

    95. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That makes some sense. About 10 years ago, our local power utility (PSE&G) did an energy audit on our house. As part of the audit, they provided 2 CFL's, installed water saving shower heads, and insulated external power outlets. Since that time, the shower heads have long since been replaced with regular shower heads, as I got tired of being spit on by a shower head. However, the CFLs that they installed (which, at the time generally cost $20ea and were loops rather than the common spiral shape today) are all still in service today. One has been on 24/7. That comes to 80,000 hours. The other is in a basement workroom, and gets turned on about once a week for an hour at a time. In that 10 years, I've gone through dozens of CFL's in my primary fixtures, which get cycled up to several times a day.

    96. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The quality variations between CFL brands is a huge problem. The cheapest models might barely outlast incandescent bulbs while the expensive models will often last what is promised. The better brands are often available only at specialty lighting and electricity supply stores.

      Another very important thing about CFLs is that you must *never* use them in a fixture that has zero air circulation. If the electronics in the base of the CFL heat up to 80C (or 180F) or more, you can kiss reliability goodbye.

    97. Re:ROI by slim · · Score: 1

      OK, how do I know, at point of purchase, whether they reach full brightness in an acceptable time?

      I've bought branded CFLs in the last few months that leave the room feeling dim for a couple of minutes.

    98. Re:ROI by Chapter80 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I bought my first CFLs back in 2001 (six of them). All but one is still working. One, I had in a portable work light, and I busted it transporting it. The others survived a move to my new house in 2005.

      As soon as the builders cheap incandescent lights began burning out (in 2006), I bought replacements for ALL non-dimmer lights in my house (mostly in bathrooms), about 25 bulbs. While not all of them are in use every day, every one of them is still working.

      So I am well above your 1.5 estimate with a sample size greater than 30.

    99. Re:ROI by slim · · Score: 1

      Unfortunately you are talking about the sort of bulbs designed to run in the warm south of China on 240V and instead to be a cheapskate they are being used at 110V where it is cold.

      Actually I'm talking about brand name bulbs (probably Panasonic?) bought in a British supermarket which should therefore be expected to work in British conditions. Which is 230V, at temperatures somewhere around 20 degrees C (indoors).

      I'd LOVE to use CFLs and LEDs exclusively. Every single one I've bought has significant drawbacks over a traditional bulb.

      Tell me how to source a CFL that gets bright immediately, I'll do it (I'll be cross if I spend the money and you're wrong).

      Show me an LED GU10 that's has the same brightness and spread as a halogen GU10, and I'll switch to those.

      I want to be green. But I also want my lightbulbs to actually, you know, provide light.

    100. Re:ROI by slim · · Score: 1

      Not in the last 10 years though, and not even with the £1 Asda bulbs in the last 5 years.

      Either you're not as sensitive to dim light as I am, or you're deluding yourself, or I've been really unlucky with my choices.

      I've bought what seemed to be the best in Tesco, in the last few months, and found them to be dim for a significant period after switching on.

    101. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Have two in a hallway still working after 3+ years

    102. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Are you some kind of reptile?

    103. Re:ROI by LordKronos · · Score: 1

      Wow. That's unfortunate. You must be buying crappy CFLs or something. I put 15 GE CFLs in my home over 4 years ago. I had one burn out after 2 years and another one at 3 years. The rest were running just fine, though I've replaced them anyway after the 4 year mark. I discovered the nvision/ecosmart daylight CFLs at home depot, and like those better because
      1) the 5500K/5000K color temperature is more pleasing to me
      2) they are actually instant on

      I've now moved all the GE ones to the less used places where I figured the very low usage didn't generate enough cost savings to justify paying for CFLs. As a result, they'll probably last a really long time, but I won't get any idea what a realistic life is for them. But even so, 4 years is pretty good...more than enough to pay for themselves.

    104. Re:ROI by residieu · · Score: 1

      Yup, they need time to warm up... a whole half a second...

    105. Re:ROI by whereiswaldo · · Score: 1

      I also wonder whether they factor high on/off activity in the life of the bulb. Bulbs which stay on most of the time seem to last longer than those which are turned on and off regularly.

      I've also found that buying better quality bulbs (ie. not from home depot) can result in better bulb lifetime. YMMV.

    106. Re:ROI by fbwhrdpmtajg · · Score: 1

      The current trend is to get a lot of recessed lights and stick the cheapest CFLs in them. They look terrible though. Even the best CFLs have 82 CRI and a very spiky spectrum using a triphosphor formula. LED bulbs are far worse. The best lights are color proofing 90+CRI T5/T8 fluorescents or halogens (solux for example) if you can stand the heat output. Properly installed lighting with a 60-80% indirect component (bounced off the ceiling for example) any room gets a hell of a lot more comfortable. http://www.labs21century.gov/pdf/bp_lighting_508.pdf

    107. Re:ROI by digitig · · Score: 1

      It sounds like the cold startup or poorly designed starters is your issue. It may be lower electrical certification standards that let in bulbs that do not work very well.

      Cold startup does seem to be the issue. I'm not sure whether that's even addressed by certification standards. I see from Wikipedia that some CFLs take up to three minutes to come to their rated brightness, and that one minute is common.

      --
      Quidnam Latine loqui modo coepi?
    108. Re:ROI by digitig · · Score: 1

      Where do you get those (in the UK)? One to three minutes is the norm for the stuff in stores here.

      --
      Quidnam Latine loqui modo coepi?
    109. Re:ROI by Botia · · Score: 1

      Your math is off a little. For the LED bulb, you are saving 60w - 6.9w = 53.1w. For the CFL, you are saving 60w - 13.5w = 46.5w. With the LED bulb saving you $23/yr, the CFL would save you approximately $20/yr.

    110. Re:ROI by Vellmont · · Score: 1

      You might just want to look into taking some refresher mathematics classes. 60 watts-15 watts= 45 watts savings for the CFL. 60-7=53 watts savings for the LED. 53-45= 8 additional watts savings of the LED over the CFL. 8 watts additional/45 watts CFL is about an additional 18% over savings going from CFL to LED. That's a LONG way from the additional 100% you calculated using the wrong math.

      --
      AccountKiller
    111. Re:ROI by asc99c · · Score: 1

      FWIW, my electricity company sent me some excellent Philips bulbs that immediately are at full brightness. The impressive bit was that even the fairly compact 11W bulbs switch straight on. I've generally not found problems with the big 20W bulbs, but smaller CFLs still sometimes suffer from a slow warm up time.

      Also, if you're in the UK, the cheap B&Q value 4 pack of 20W bulbs go immediately to full brightness and, to me at least, look comparable with 100W incandescents. On the downside, one of my B&Q bulbs has blown - the only CFL I've lost since I started using them about 6 years ago.

    112. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've got one ("60 watt equivalent", whatever that nonsense means) in the bathroom directly over the tub that was installed after incandescents burned out repeatedly there; I think I installed it five years ago, though it might have been four. Anyway, that's when we started transitioning over, and we have yet to have one burn out.

    113. Re:ROI by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      I've bought what seemed to be the best in Tesco, in the last few months,

      Isn't that a bit like buying the best they have at Wal-Mart? Manufacturers send their crap stock there because they know Wal-Mart customers won't complain, and products are also made extra-cheap for Wal-Mart on purpose at their request.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    114. Re:ROI by tuxicle · · Score: 1

      [citation needed]

    115. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have this same problem! The last house I lived in we never changed the bulbs. At this house I have replaced every single CFL twice within one year! Once the third set started popping I went back to incandescent bulbs. I have attributed the problem to unstable power coupled with cheap ballasts in the bulbs. You can watch the incandescent bulbs flicker at 60Hz sometimes when large appliances are running. My hope is that the LEDs will handle the power fluctuation better since they can be dimmed.

    116. Re:ROI by happymellon · · Score: 1

      I've bought branded CFLs in the last few months that leave the room feeling dim for a couple of minutes.

      Were you watching Fox at the time? It might not be the bulb that made the room feel dim.

    117. Re:ROI by darjen · · Score: 1

      they also have loads of mercury in them.

    118. Re:ROI by xaxa · · Score: 1

      I've bought what seemed to be the best in Tesco, in the last few months,

      Isn't that a bit like buying the best they have at Wal-Mart?

      It depends.

      Asda (owned by Wal-Mart) usually stock only the budget item, be it food or something else. Even the "luxury" Asda food is crap, IME.

      Tesco tend to stock a larger range. For food, in order of taste and cost, there's "Tesco Value", "Tesco", a branded mid-range product(s), a luxury brand and "Tesco Finest". Asda don't sell anything better than the branded mid-range product, but they are very slightly cheaper with what they do sell.

    119. Re:ROI by H0p313ss · · Score: 1

      If lightning hit your house and you had no protection/conditioning circuitry ANY light or device you have plugged in is at serious risk anyway

      Which is the norm in North America. Sadly it only costs about $100 to install surge protector between the mains and the fuse/breaker box but I had never even heard of them until last week.

      --
      XML is a known as a key material required to create SMD: Software of Mass Destruction
    120. Re:ROI by vlpronj · · Score: 1

      Isn't unscrewing a bulb the most direct method of disconnecting it, and not the socket, from the mains?

    121. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I agree mine go out all the time. I am very disaapionted by them.

    122. Re:ROI by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Show me a CFL that last's 10 years that costs $2.00. I replace those damn things every 3 months. They do NOT last much longer than a regular old bulb.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    123. Re:ROI by elrous0 · · Score: 1

      I too seriously doubt these will ever actually make it to any theoretical 19 year mark. Lightening strikes, energy spikes, environmental factors (like extreme temperature changes and humidity), etc. will all take their toll in any real world scenario long before then. I've never seen a CFL last anywhere near its 7 year rating in my house either, especially in my bathroom, which seems to go through them like crazy (no doubt due to the humidity, which seems to reek havoc on anything electrical I put in there for any long period of time). So I suspect that LED's are still nowhere near the value "sweet spot" of the CFL in normal household use. They might be useful for particularly hard-to-reach areas, though (like lights in vaulted ceilings).

      --
      SJW: Someone who has run out of real oppression, and has to fake it.
    124. Re:ROI by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      Ditto in the U.S. starting 2012.

      Stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid. There are many applications (like upside-down or enclosed fixtures) where nothing but an incandescent bulb will work, because the heat would kill a CFL's electronics. Our stupid employees in Congress need to be awakened to the reality - they either do what we tell them to do, or they'll get fired (permanently). Forcing us to abandon working bulbs for non-working bulbs is unacceptable.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    125. Re:ROI by Kagetsuki · · Score: 1

      Here protection is built into the actual breaker. Our breakers aren't just a simple hole in the wall with a bunch of slots for simple resettable manual fuses. Here is a picture an explanation of a general, low end breaker here: http://www.chuden.co.jp/manabu/shikumi/bundenban/index.html. The far left is the master circuit breaker, which would of course throw if the incoming lines had a surge. Just to the right of that is a device which detects power irregularities (literally "leaks"), the particular unit here can detect anomalies within a 15mA to 30mA resolution. A momentary burst of +30mA to a generic red LED would probably do some damage, but to one of these lights I seriously doubt a fluctuation of 30mA even coming close to damaging them unless the design is exceptionally poor - not likely since we are talking about Panasonic.

    126. Re:ROI by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      I have Philips bulbs. They do switch=on immediately, but they are NOT full brightness. The worst is the 60-watt-equivalent bulbs which are only at half brightness and take 5 minutes until they finally reach full.

      My Lights of America bulbs have the same flaw.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    127. Re:ROI by Idiomatick · · Score: 1

      I switched to them as they came out Nowadays they seem to last about 5~6 years. I dunno what you are doing with yours... Even my incandescents seem to last over a year lately (Have them in the kitchen only since they are bare and on display, cfls look odd).

      I am certain, aside from the very 1st gen CFLs that I've not had a bulb die in less than 2years.

    128. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Err, so I'm just imagining the 5600k 96+ CRI CFLs I've been using for years?

    129. Re:ROI by yabos · · Score: 1

      I don't know where you buy these super awesome CF bulbs but all the ones I get that are cheap don't last much longer than an incandescent. They go in a few months of normal use.

    130. Re:ROI by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      MOV's solve that and LED's are very forgiving for short overvoltage events. your IR remote operates the IR emitter LED that way.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    131. Re:ROI by argStyopa · · Score: 1

      *PRECISELY*

      We tried CFL's in our 1907 home and they didn't last as long as incandescents, much less the inflated lifespan we were expecting. Further, their light degraded BADLY over time, we ended up replacing them not when they burned out, but when the light they threw was deeply yellowed and about as bright as 20w bulbs.

      I'm genuinely hoping that LEDs are the real future.

      --
      -Styopa
    132. Re:ROI by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      If it lasts 40 times as long as a regular light bulb and costs 40 times as much (you only get REALLY cheap light bulbs for $1), then it pays for itself right there. The $23/yr electricity saving is pure bonus.

      Sign me up. When can I get these? I want to try one first to see if it's a decent spectrum, but if so I'm in.

    133. Re:ROI by mishehu · · Score: 1

      I'm also guessing that this is prior to the invention of the flashlight (or do people in the UK call it a "torch"?) and possibly even the horseless carriage? I've got 3 flashlights around my house for when the lightbulbs don't work at all (namely if we were to have a power outtage).

      Seriously, before I move into a place, I always check that there's running water, electricity, natural gas if the place has it, and that there's some lightbulbs that function... and if not, I know before I move in that I need to get down to the store to get some lamps or lightbulbs for the place.

    134. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      CFLs rated lifetime is based on a low cyclic (ie. not being turned on and off a lot). Lights in the bathroom in particular get cycled a lot. To a lesser extent, kitchen lights also get a lot of cycles. Not a good fit for CFLs.

      Another example of why blanket pronouncements (replace ALL incandescents with CFLs) are a bad idea.

    135. Re:ROI by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      Shouldn't be. LEDs are pretty brain dead simple, electrically. So long as they don't do something stupid rectifying the DC, the LED should be just fine.

      As a bonus it's instant on (no warm up time) and won't flicker.

      They should also drop a LOT in price once they catch on. CFLs were expensive when they first came out too. I think the first I bought were around $25 each and I bought those when I decided they'd dropped to a reasonable price point.

    136. Re:ROI by residieu · · Score: 1

      Feel sorry for the UK, then. I've tried a few different brands (whichever I grab at walmart) and never had any significant problem with warmup time. Even the old long tube fluorescents we had at home growing up (20+ years ago) provided at least some light within a few seconds, and usually got to full pretty quickly)

    137. Re:ROI by Idiomatick · · Score: 1

      Its still the future, give it 5years and they'll have dropped in initial price A LOT.

    138. Re:ROI by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      I actually like that aspect of them in the bathroom. It really helps when you need to use the bathroom in the middle of the night and don't particularly want to be blinded into consciousness.

      In the kitchen it is less desirable. I compensate by using a higher wattage bulb. So rather than replace the two 60-watts in the kitchen with "60-watt replacements" I used "75-watt replacements", which I think amounts to an extra 4 watts total. So my kitchen is much brighter than it ever was with the incandescents once the bulbs warm up, and about the same when you first turn them on.

      The closet stays incandescent. There is absolutely no justification for changing out the closet bulbs.

      The other place I can't justify is the living room. I have a floor lamp with a 3-way bulb. A 3-way replacement is so large that it sticks out the top. I've shopped for replacements and none of the inexpensive lamps have a large enough glass portion to hide the fluorescent bulb. I'd spend far more on a new "fluorescent friendly" lamp than I ever will on electricity, and I'd be restricted in the number of styles. Maybe I'll convert it someday if I'm feeling that gerry-rig urge... two fluorescent rings, a ballast and a three-way switch would do it, I think.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    139. Re:ROI by Jafafa+Hots · · Score: 1

      CFL are not a good choice for bathrooms. Most even say on their package that they aren't good for closets and bathrooms. Too many on/off cycles, kills them. They are best for rooms where they will be turned on and left on for hours, not minutes.

      --
      This space available.
    140. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "I have only CFL's in my house."

      I certainly do not want to visit your house, then

      Proof that CFLs work as designed!

    141. Re:ROI by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      It must vary wildly by lot. I installed 3 in the bathroom and 4 more in the rest of the house. All the same brand. The first in the bathroom only lasted 6 months and they sent me another one under warranty. The next one died after a year, and this time they would not replace it (I don't recommend nVision bulbs because of this). I replaced it with another brand. None of the non-bathroom bulbs have died in the 3 years since installation.

      Anyway, my point is - you might have gotten lucky and installed the 1 bulb that is still going strong in my bathroom :)

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    142. Re:ROI by ceoyoyo · · Score: 2, Informative

      Well, most people still use incandescents. There are also some places where CFLs don't work as well, but an LED would be just fine.

      Also, if you look a little further up, the LED lights still pay for themselves times two or so against CFLs over their lifetime. And that's with a brand new product. CFLs weren't a lot cheaper when they debuted.

    143. Re:ROI by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      I would buy a box of 12 incandescents at Walgreens for $2 and install them wherever I took out an expensive bulb. I mean, how cheap can you be? :)

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    144. Re:ROI by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      It's unwritten law that you don't take the lightbulbs when you move house; It's just being a cheapskate.

      I took my then expensive CFLs with me when I moved some years back, the bulbs were 4x what they cost now.

      On the other hand, I DID buy a couple cheap 4 packs of 60watt incandescents and put them in the apartment as I took my bulbs out. I think I paid $1 for the packs.

      So with me you'd have had light, heck, all brand new bulbs! Even if they'd probably start failing in a couple months... Main reason I like CFLs - I don't have to keep replacing the suckers.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    145. Re:ROI by wonkavader · · Score: 1

      If you buy more, you'll find that some last for a long time. I bought a lot, and had a bunch fail. The ones that haven't fail... well, haven't failed.

      I think they're made cheaply and crapilly.

      I for one will be ECSTATIC to replace them with LEDs.

    146. Re:ROI by kimvette · · Score: 1

      IKEA makes things on the cheap? Say it ain't so!

      --
      The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    147. Re:ROI by w1 · · Score: 0

      The real danger of coming in contact with Mercury is burning yourself (seeing as how it's so close to the Sun).

    148. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's the worse[sic] grammar I've seen today!

    149. Re:ROI by Waffle+Iron · · Score: 1

      I could be dead wrong about the reasoning, but CFLs unquestionably die faster than incandescent bulbs around here. Hopefully this isn't an issue with LED bulbs.

      I'm not sure I believe the claims on the super-long life of LEDs. I routinely see LED truck taillights and traffic lights with various patterns of dead elements in them. LEDs are so new and they're supposed to last so long, there shouldn't yet be any dead elements in the wild, but it seems to happen a lot. My theory is that the reliability of high-powered LEDs is overblown.

    150. Re:ROI by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      I'd wager that the likelihood of a lightning strike in 19 years is pretty good... depending on your location of course. Most of the lines in many cities are underground, so lightning probably isn't a big issue.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    151. Re:ROI by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      so you can make the buyer agree that you'll be taking them in direct contradiction to the law.

      That depends on the state. It'd be more accurate to say that there's a standard home purchase agreement as to what's staying and what's going, and any deviations need to be noted in the contract.

      As far as home hardware goes - I look at it this way. Blind/curtain hardware are generally mounted&customized for the window it's on. Attempting to remove it and move to another house with completely different window sizes is inefficient. Might as well leave it for the next tenants - it's cheaper and less work for everyone. Unless they want to change it, but that's their bone.

      Same deal with the major kitchen appliances. The ones in the old house might not fit the new house(physically or aesthetically), they're who knows how old, only $500-2000 new anyways, difficult to move, might break in transit, etc... In my area, the washer/dryer set is often included for the same reasons.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    152. Re:ROI by RingDev · · Score: 1

      Assuming $0.20/kWh, 6 hours of lighting a day 365 days a year, 19 years service form the new LED and 7 years (warranty span) on a typical 13W CFL.

      Your annual total cost of ownership favors the LED light by about $0.50/year.

      Even if you drop the LED to 18 years and push the CFL for 10 years, you're still right at roughly the same total annual cost. But the longer you leave the light on each day or the more expensive electricity is, the more of an advantage the LED gains.

      For low usage bulbs, it doesn't make sense to switch. But for high usage bulbs, these new LED lights are pure gold!

      -Rick

      --
      "Most people in the U.S. wouldn't know they live in a tyrannical state if it walked up and grabbed their junk." - MyFirs
    153. Re:ROI by way2slo · · Score: 1

      YMMV. I had one burn out shortly after purchase. Others have been going for well over 3 years. (lost another due to lightning strike along with other things)

      I have 3 Three-Way CFLs and 3 standard CFLs, 2 of which are outside. No, they're not the special "outdoor" ones. I compared those with the standard type and they have the same tolerances but were half the price. Only downside to CFL outdoors is the long warm-up time in cold weather. I'm talking minutes when below freezing. Just have to remember ahead of time.

      I'll switch to LED in a heartbeat when they become available in my area. Last I checked, a broken LED is not a HAZMAT spill.

    154. Re:ROI by SydShamino · · Score: 1

      The early Ikea bulbs (bought 6-8 years ago) were totally shit. They were the first round of CFLs we bought, and almost every one has failed (with the rest an awful color at this point). Newer ones bought from Ikea have been better, but it's hard to tell that they're new and improved when they're labeled identically to the thing that screwed you once.

      --
      It doesn't hurt to be nice.
    155. Re:ROI by Itninja · · Score: 1

      I have had a spiral CFL as a porch light for fours years running. It's on 24/7. Since TFA is defining a 'day' as only 5.5 hours, then my CFL's can also (apparently) last for nearly 19 years. Call me when an LED can last for 19 actual years.

      --
      I judt got a nre Kinesis keybiartf so please excusr ant egregiou typos.
    156. Re:ROI by dhanson865 · · Score: 1

      If you can lift it and carry it out (with or without help) with nothing more than disconnecting it from utilities (or something like a dryer vent) then it not part of the real property. You can take your fridge and washer/dryer.

      It's rude and a violation of contract to remove anything "secured" to the grounds, and you have to unscrew them to take them, so they are part of the real property.

      If you have to unscrew a light bulb it's not OK but if you have to get a friggen forklift to haul out an oversized side by side fridge it is OK?

      You have some really weird attitudes about what is permanent.

      I can unscrew a light bulb with no tools, no ladder, no forethought or planning.

      You can't get a Washer/Dryer/Refrigerator out of the house without multiple people doing hard labor or one person with specialized equipment and lots of planning.

      And what about the disconnect between saying "disconnecting it from utilities" and unscrewing a light bulb? Is not the AC power coming through a light socket the "utilities" and isn't unscrewing a light bulb the same as "disconnecting it from utilities"?

    157. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Most of the bulbs that claimed long life had stipulations like "run 4 consecutive hours per day" to last many years. If you are like most people and endevour to turn off a light every time you leave the room, the CFL's will burn out much faster, since they are being restarted many times per day instead of once, as directed.

      Given how little their draw is, you'd get a lot more life (and cost savings) just leaving the light on. I have bought various CFL's and all of them have lasted through several moves because I dont toggle them off and on repeatedly.

    158. Re:ROI by techwrench · · Score: 1

      I live in central Indiana, and you would be surprised at the over and under voltage conditions we receive here. I have lost light bulbs, computer power supplies and other electrical devices due to shoddy power conditioning from the _Power Company_.

      Some may think the Midwest is close to a Third World Nation, from the power issues we have here.

      --
      It's You and I against the World... When do we attack?
    159. Re:ROI by SydShamino · · Score: 1

      I'm not going to keep a pack of 10 around the house, I'm going to go out and have to buy one whenever a bulb burns out.

      ...except you won't be able to buy them pretty soon. Better stock up.

      --
      It doesn't hurt to be nice.
    160. Re:ROI by dr2chase · · Score: 1

      LEDs (what the original article was about, not that anyone seems to care) reach full brightness as fast as you get the power to them, give or take a few microseconds. Biggest delay in all the LEDs that I use is (for some of them) the low quality of the switching wall-wart that powers them. The ones on my bike, and on my helmet, are instant-on.

    161. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Dude, your math is off: just because a lightbulb is twice as efficient doesn't mean it saves twice the money over an incandescent. It saves (60-6.9)/(60-15) = 1.18 times as much money, which, assuming their numbers, is $3.5 / year over a CFL. The savings over the CFL are not quite as impressive now, are they?

    162. Re:ROI by mprindle · · Score: 1

      When I moved in to my house four years ago I replaced all of the lights with spiral CFL's. I have yet to have one fail on me. If you purchased a Sylvania or GE most of those bulbs have 3 - 5 year warranties on them. When I had one of those fail I called the company and they sent me a coupon for $20 which was good to buy a new 4 pack of bulbs.

    163. Re:ROI by dr2chase · · Score: 1

      I run LEDs, permanently attached to my bicycle, which sits outdoors year-round, and is wired to be on whenever the bicycle is moving. Heat/cold/rain/snow/vibration have not killed them yet. I have them on my kid's bikes too, including some that I recycled from earlier versions of my bike lights. I have nine in my kitchen under cabinets, running near continuously (at 11watts, they are the first lights on, and the last lights off). How do you think your bathroom compares? The tenth one (cheaper in bulk) sits on my night-time bike helmet

      The electronics are efficient switching power supplies, and are potted in epoxy.

    164. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Standard operating procedure is to leave an apartment in as close to the same condition that you found it in when you moved in. This means if you replaced a bulb with your own money it's your bulb; you just need to put the original back when you move out. If you paint the walls, you need to repaint them back. All this is subject to change if you make other arrangements with the landlord. If you do, get it in writing because you may be dealing with a property manager and property managers often change.

    165. Re:ROI by mea37 · · Score: 1

      I can count the number of lightbulbs I've lost to lightning on one hand. Even if you cut all the fingers off that hand first.

    166. Re:ROI by omnichad · · Score: 1

      As a renter, I always take out all the bulbs and put them in a box with styrofoam peanuts, and replace them with CFL's. When I'm ready to move on, I switch the bulbs back. At my last place, the landlord rented out an apartment where half of the bulbs already had quit. That only took $2 in buying cheap incandescents to leave behind, because landlords are jerks and I'd have probably been charged for the bulbs out of my deposit or at the very least, the new tenant would have to move into a dark apartment.

    167. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Great it saves some money on energy costs. They don't like to mention that the manufacturing costs are much higher. You have to figure in how much energy it takes to mine and refine the materials used in the CFC's. You also have to figure the increased cost of manufacturing and the increased energy use in making the things. Then factor in that they are all made in China and have to be shipped overseas and trucked to retail outlets.

      Once you actually figure the entire life-cycle cost of mining, manufacturing, shipping, AND disposal of the CFC's, they really aren't saving anything in terms of energy.

    168. Re:ROI by johnm1019 · · Score: 1

      Just get an Arduino, and some large FETS. Implementing high power PWM for dimming lights really isn't that hard because you don't need high switching frequencies.

    169. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      In the parts of Canada in which I have lived, anything attached to the house, such as ceiling light fixtures and curtain rods, are fixtures and are part of the house. A built-in dishwasher is part of the house and by default is included in the sale, while a free-standing fridge is by default not. That said, it is standard practice for the offer to purchase to explicitly list things such as appliances; it would be very unusual to find an offer to purchase that did not explicitly mention such things. It is also common, though not universal, for curtains and blinds to be sold with the house; there is no standard window sizing here, so curtains and blinds are generally customized and so would be of limited use in a new house.

    170. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If you get the buyer to agree, it's not in direct contradiction to the law. YANAL.

    171. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Though, in the US, unlike the rest of the world, you can sign away what's guaranteed you by law, so you can make the buyer agree that you'll be taking them in direct contradiction to the law.

      If the law allows two people to agree to do things differently, then doing so is not a direct contradiction of the law.

      I am glad that people are allowed to adjust the contract to suit their needs (in this case, to encourage investement in efficient light bulbs).

    172. Re:ROI by slim · · Score: 1

      That's great, except that the conversation drifted to energy efficient lights you can buy today.

      If there are LED based solutions intended to replace conventional 100W bulbs, I've not seen them.

      I've used the most powerful LED GU10 downlighter replacements available, and they are significantly dimmer than 50W halogen, with visibly less spread. They made my kitchen gloomy.

    173. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Wouldn't unscrewing the bulb be the same as unplugging a washer/dryer? Its just the electrical contact.

    174. Re:ROI by b0bby · · Score: 1

      I had one last 3 years, on 24/7 above my porch. I have another that's been on a timer, 10hrs a day for my fish for 4+ years. That one actually had the tube come loose from the base so I replaced it, but the new one had a different light temp & made the water look bad. I gorilla glued the tube back into the base, and it's been fine for over a year now... I had a fancy $20 sun lamp type cfl fail within 2 years, but maybe one other in 8 years or so.

    175. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Dosent like Humidity? How the hell does humidity get into the light bulb??? Are you out of your mind?

    176. Re:ROI by slim · · Score: 1

      I think the problem is that I demand bright light.

      I wouldn't choose to have a 60W bulb anywhere a 100W would be allowed. Hence, following your rule, I'd be looking for a "125W replacement", which I've not seen anywhere.

    177. Re:ROI by geekoid · · Score: 1

      Dollar to donuts the power in the bathroom is th reasone. Probaly a bad fixture or wiring.

      I see this in fixtures all the time. Crappy made internals , neutral not connect properly, or at all, or the wiring when the house was built isn't correct.

      If a modern CFL is going bad that quickly, its probably dirty power or poor manufacturing of the bulb.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    178. Re:ROI by geekoid · · Score: 1

      I was hoping for the motto:
      The naughty Aughties.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    179. Re:ROI by geekoid · · Score: 1

      In the US, it's also breech of contracted.

      Unless specifically called out in the home buyer agreement, anything attached to the walls or fixtures is part of the house.
      So when you sell your house, be sure to not have anything "permanently" attached to a wall. In this context that means anything screwed in or fastened or bolted or glued or... if you can't easily and casually remove it then it supposed to stay.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    180. Re:ROI by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      Like you, I like bright light. The ceiling fixtures that I have in the kitchen took a maximum of two 60-watt bulbs. It's an apartment, so I'm not going to replace the fixtures. The best way to brighten up the kitchen was to put in two bright-white "75-watt replacement" bulbs in the fixtures. Same in the bathroom. It's an old vanity from the 60s that takes 3 bulbs, maximum of 60 watts. I replaced that with 3 "75-watt replacement" bulbs and it is much, much brighter. I have a "150-watt replacement" bulb in my living room right now, and it's not bright enough for me - but previously I had a 300-watt halogen. I'm moving shortly or I'd replace it.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    181. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      overvoltage : do you live in a third world country ?

      I live in the U.S., and in my area, it pays to buy incandescent bulbs that are rated for a somewhat higher voltage than what's supposed to be coming out of the socket. There is enough fluctuation in the quality of our electricity (this isn't just in our house, it's all over town) that the cheaper bulbs will burn out very quickly.

    182. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      ... On a different but related note I have a relative who, when he inspected a house he was buying would hide items which he wanted to own, then retrieve them after taking the place over.

      And by "own" you mean "steal." Nice relative you have, and apparently admire...

    183. Re:ROI by canajin56 · · Score: 1

      I'll second this observation. My CAPS is the brightest, SCROLL is the darkest, NUM in the middle. And they're close, its nowhere near "twice" as bright. This NUMLOCK has been on for years straight I figure. The difference in brightness is more than likely caused more by the fact that the "A" lets more light through than the "9" for the numlock, and both let well more in than the little down arrow for the scroll lock.

      --
      ASCII stupid question, get a stupid ANSI
    184. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      They're simply making the circuits in them too poorly .... I've yet to have one last more than 3 years... and buying the same brand/model seems to have little to do with the color spectrum they emit (ranging from alien blue to the more acceptable warm yellows).

      Looking forward to checking out the LED lights... so far the few I've played with though were quite dim for their supposed lumen output.

    185. Re:ROI by don_carnage · · Score: 1

      On a different but related note I have a relative who, when he inspected a house he was buying would hide items which he wanted to own, then retrieve them after taking the place over.

      Wow. Thanks for the heads-up. I'll be sure to pay close attention when I go to list my house.

    186. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's pretty much my experience. I started using all CFLs when I first moved into a home 2.5 years ago. Out of 28 bulbs, 12 have burned out in that time (I keep them in a box to recycle some day). Several died within the first nine months. Most are Phillips brand, bought at Costco, with a few Sylvanias that have all died. If it were due to power surges, the same would have fried most of my electronics long ago, but I've had no problems whatsoever with any plug-in electronics since moving in.

    187. Re:ROI by Hammer · · Score: 1

      That is BS, I use almost exclusively CFL and have no problem with heat in enclosed fixtures. They just do not produce a whole lot of heat.
      As a matter of fact I use a 100w equivalent CFL in a fixture designed for 60W because of the much lower heat signature.

    188. Re:ROI by srvivn21 · · Score: 1

      In the US (well, the parts I've paid attention to) "real property" is the land and anything attached to it. If you can lift it and carry it out (with or without help) with nothing more than disconnecting it from utilities (or something like a dryer vent) then it not part of the real property.

      SNIP

      It's rude and a violation of contract to remove anything "secured" to the grounds, and you have to unscrew [the light bulbs] to take them, so they are part of the real property.

      So how exactly does your clothes washer connect to the plumbing?

      I don't think that the bulbs in the fixtures (as opposed to the existence of some bulbs in the fixtures) is likely to be a point of contention with the law (unless the contract governing transference of ownership says otherwise. YMMV, IANAL, etc.

    189. Re:ROI by elFisico · · Score: 1

      White LEDs are not based on gallium arsenide as infrared LEDs are, they use indium gallium nitride which is non-toxic.

    190. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'll still pay more for the LED. Had two CFL bulbs break, one I was installing in a bathroom fan and it fell to the ground and exploded. Another just popped during use, found a nice hole in the bulb when I took it out. Most of mine have lasted for four to six years but I would rather pay to remove the risks of having easily dispersed Mercury in the home.

    191. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've had the same experience of early failures with CFLs. About 1 out of 4 fail within 6 months. I've bought them from Menards, Home Depot, Sears, etc. CFLs are a long way from being reliable. They are, at best, moderately cost effective if you don't mind the odd color light and longer warm up time as they age. And IMO, if you include the inconvenience of special disposal, they're even less worthwhile. Bring on the LEDs. The sooner, the better.

    192. Re:ROI by Carnildo · · Score: 1

      A dead element almost certainly represents a broken wire. The only thing that will kill the light-emitting part of an LED is overvoltage, and I'd expect that to kill the entire array.

      --
      "They redundantly repeated themselves over and over again incessantly without end ad infinitum" -- ibid.
    193. Re:ROI by Chris+Burke · · Score: 1

      On a different but related note I have a relative who, when he inspected a house he was buying would hide items which he wanted to own, then retrieve them after taking the place over.

      I tried that once, but I couldn't find a place to stuff the kids where they wouldn't hear them cry but they'd also be able to breathe. ...

      Damn I just creeped myself out. >_

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    194. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      CFL's are a product brought to market by media and tree huggers, who knew the pollution they cause, but hid it. (mercury). Actual, proper disposal is supposed to be done by the equivalent of a HAZMAT team (not a joke).

      They have heavy roi interests in CFL's not revealed in their portfolios, but, tree huggers rarely think past 'solve it now, I don't care about the consequences' thinking. That is why alien species so often are the product of ersatz environmentalist, and not real environmental engineers.

      LEDs have their problems, but as production goes up, costs will go down (original CFLs cost much more when first introduces, but, you probably don't remember that long long long time before today).

      Technology on LEDs has progressed very far in just the last two years, again, you may not remember that far back, or followed anything but CFLs.)

      All else aside, the CFL of today is too subject to damage, leaving broken glass and mercury vapour in the air and on the surfaces (small though the amounts may be) with expensive clean-up required, but never done.

      Breakage of LED components results in wires needing to be reconnected, smaller mass left to be gotten rid of, and, if the glass breaks (if there is any) it only needs a broom, dust pan, and a wet paper towel, not a HAZMAT vist.

      But, typical of the masses of 'environmentalists,' these differences are never looked at. Only the indoctrination that Mr. Al Gore (who's investments are never examined by the media and his greenies) and other cults of the 'Green Earth' church... Individual thinking is not looked well upon... Only what the leaders tell you to believe, is correct.

      I am not 'anti' the earth being maintained... I am not one that thinks everything, like lying about the weather (Gore's mentor who used to work at NASA's Goddard weather stats area) for promoting a cause.

    195. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      The appliance is the fixture, and you'd be breaking the fixture. It would be like telling someone they get the stove and fridge, then taking the bulbs out of them (or more accurately, since the bulbs are the necessary parts, it would be like selling someone a fridge then taking out the condenser).

    196. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      So how exactly does your clothes washer connect to the plumbing?

      I stated the exceptions, then talked about the non-exceptions. The washer obviously screws to the plumbing. The dryer is even more connected in many cases because of the gas connection. However, anything that's connected *only* by connections to the utility is considered unconnected. That's the basis of the law, but the laws sometimes have more exceptions added, depending on your local laws. And no, a bulb is not an apppliance. The fixture it is in is the thing that's fixed to the grounds, and the bulb is part of that fixture, rather than a separate consideration.

      I don't think that the bulbs in the fixtures (as opposed to the existence of some bulbs in the fixtures) is likely to be a point of contention with the law (unless the contract governing transference of ownership says otherwise. YMMV, IANAL, etc.

      Taking generic law and a standard sale contract, you must keep the property in the same condition as the day the conract is signed until closing. Removing expensive bulbs for the sole purpose of decreasing value of the property for your own gain would be a violation of all laws and contracts I've seen, even if replaced with something that makes it still functional. It would be the same, in the eyes of the law and the standard contracts, as selling the house, then replacing the triple-pane windows with single pane windows that kinda look the same, replacing the 50-gallon water tank with a used 30-gallon one, pulling up the nice carpets and laying down unpadded astroturf or the like.

    197. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      If you have to unscrew a light bulb it's not OK but if you have to get a friggen forklift to haul out an oversized side by side fridge it is OK?

      Yes. Because the fridge is an appliance. It comes or goes as a unit. The bulb (by law and electrical code) is never stand-alone. It is part of a fixture. Taking the bulb is disabling a fixture. The law and standard contracts hold that like, say, taking the racks out of the dishwasher. They aren't tied down, but they are required for proper operation of the appliance. You wouldn't want me to sell you a working car, then yank all the spark plug wires off once I've sold it to you? But they aren't screwed on or tied down or anything, and you didn't mind me taking the change out of the ashtray, so it must be no different if I take the sparkplug wires too.

      And what about the disconnect between saying "disconnecting it from utilities" and unscrewing a light bulb? Is not the AC power coming through a light socket the "utilities" and isn't unscrewing a light bulb the same as "disconnecting it from utilities"?

      But the bulb isn't a fixture or appliance. You wouldn't take the bulbs out of the fridge or stove after selling that item with the bulb in when people looked at it. The buyer would consider that to be reducing the value after the sale. You didn't buy the bulb, you bought the entirity of the working appliance. The same is true of the bulbs in the house. They are part of fixtures that are presumed to be working in a specific manner when the bill of sale is sold. If, at closing, those fixtures were purposefully reduced in value and utility, then the sale is not per terms of law and standard contract. The bulb is irrelevant, as it's just a part of the fixture, and the fixtures are what's the property. If I can't take your spark plug wires after I sold you the car, you can't take the bulbs after I sign a sale agreement on the house.

      You have some really weird attitudes about what is permanent.

      Why is it personal? I'm telling you what the laws and standard contracts say and why. It has nothing to do with what I think about it. If you sell someone a house, then reduce its value purposefully after the sale agreement is signed, you will have violated the law and/or a standard sale agreement. I gave the reasons why. You think the reasons are stupid, I can understand that. But arguing that they shouldn't be that way is unrelated to whether they are that way. You are seeming to assert that I have some control over the law and that I should stop explaining stupid laws because they are stupid. That's not the way it works.

    198. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      On a different but related note I have a relative who, when he inspected a house he was buying would hide items which he wanted to own, then retrieve them after taking the place over.

      Isn't that called theft?

    199. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      Isn't unscrewing a bulb the most direct method of disconnecting it, and not the socket, from the mains?

      Yes. But a bulb isn't an appliance or a fixture. A bulb is a necessary part of some other fixture or appliance. And that containing fixture or appliance is what needs to be in place and operational. Removing the buld disables a lighting fixture. That's a violation of the law and/or standard sale agreement.

      The law considers a placed-in fake log in a fireplace to be real property. Why? It's a 2 pound item that was placed and a 2-year old could remove it. So it obviously isn't fixed to the property. But, for the proper operation of the woodless fireplace, it is required. It's the fireplace that is the fixture. And everything that's required for it to operate in the manner it did before the sale is part of it, even if not tied down.

      I guess I should have been more specific in that anything that's real property and to be left behind must be left in the same operable condition as the day of sale. I guess thousands of slashdotters also take all their door handles with them when they move, as that leaves the door behind, even if it doesn't close or latch.

    200. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      It would be nice if the laws were writen for efficiency. Here (being Alaska, Texas, and every state I've heard of), they get around that by drawing up a separate bill of sale for private property to be executed at closing for the non-real property that will be left, usually for a token sum of $10 or such. But the definition of "real property" is a legal definition. It can't be changed by contract. The terms of the sale could include things that aren't real property, but it can never change the legal definition of real property. The bulbs in a house (except for table and floor lamps) are part of the real property as defined by law and must remain (unless specified otherwise in the contract). They are necessary for operation of fixtures that are secured to the land.

    201. Re:ROI by Xerolooper · · Score: 1

      CFL are not a good choice for bathrooms. Most even say on their package that they aren't good for closets and bathrooms. Too many on/off cycles, kills them. They are best for rooms where they will be turned on and left on for hours, not minutes.

      [Citation Needed] maybe not
      I use them in the fridge, the porch, the garage, the bathrooms, and basically everywhere in and around my house. Never had one I bought go out yet. One came with my current residence so I don't know how old it is and it flickers on and off sometimes. Brand does make a difference for the warm up time. The first ones I bought from some home supply store were irritatingly slow to warm up. But since I can now get them at Costco they usually have better quality stuff. The last batch I bought have no noticeable warm up time. Besides breaking them myself by dropping I have had none go out since I started using them. This is only my personal experience but since you were using yours to make your point I felt that I could counter in kind. Every time a bulb does do out in my house I think "ah finally" but it is usually an incandescent bulb I overlooked. My local Costco also carries multi-LED bulbs but times being what they are I haven't taken the plunge on those just yet.

      --
      "The stupid neither forgive nor forget; the naive forgive and forget; the wise forgive but do not forget." -Thomas Szasz
    202. Re:ROI by asc99c · · Score: 1

      I think in the UK someone has actually written that law. When you sell a house you have to provide a home information pack. I was astounded that the HIP inspector was making notes about the types of lightbulb installed, to calculate the house's energy efficiency ratings.

      I asked about it since I thought bulbs are so easy to replace and might well be replaced by the time we actually moved house. The answer was it's part of the fittings and the bulbs are included in the sale (since the energy performance certificate is now a non-optional part of the sale). In theory you are now breaching the terms of the sale if you take the lightbulbs.

      Despite this, when we moved in to our new house, we found the sellers had taken the lightbulbs and also a significant number of light fittings i.e. expensive decorative light fittings replaced with a standard ceiling rose. Thankfully the previous house had old wiring and bulbs kept blowing, so I'd got a decent stock of CFLs ready.

    203. Re:ROI by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      ... On a different but related note I have a relative who, when he inspected a house he was buying would hide items which he wanted to own, then retrieve them after taking the place over.

      And by "own" you mean "steal." Nice relative you have, and apparently admire...

      No I don't admire this particular individual. He is much richer than me though. I assume that stretching the rules, lying and cheating are key ways to accumulate money.

    204. Re:ROI by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      On a different but related note I have a relative who, when he inspected a house he was buying would hide items which he wanted to own, then retrieve them after taking the place over.

      Isn't that called theft?

      I certainly think so, but try proving it.

    205. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      ...with nothing more than disconnecting it from utilities...

      Unscrewing a light globe sounds a lot like disconnecting it from a utility (power).

    206. Re:ROI by pugugly · · Score: 1

      Informative? Methinks 'Citation needed'.

      --
      An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
    207. Re:ROI by pugugly · · Score: 1

      More to the point, they have some mercury in them (although even that is going away). However the mercury in the bulbs that have it is still less than the additional mercury put into the environment by a coal fired power plant powering an incandescent bulb.

      Per GEIt comes out to about 2/3rds of the mercury. Not great, but better.

      Pug

      --
      An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
    208. Re:ROI by manicmike66 · · Score: 1

      I moved into a place (rental) where there were only incandescents. Bought a heap of CFLs (which cost quite a lot) and kept the old ones in a drawer. I suspect the person before me had done the same thing. When I moved out I changed them back. The person who moved in had the option of doing the same, etc. Some of us can't afford to donate a week's rent in light bulbs, but you just don't have to be an arse and leave people with no light. Here (Australia) it's usually written in a contract of sale of the house that the price includes all fixtures such as carpet, so taking things like carpet and bulbs is illegal and the thief can be charged (in reality, they'd deny taking it or give all the crap back). Rentals have to be left in the same condition with normal wear and tear considered ok. Again, if you take light bulbs (even if you had to replace some) you are stealing. Of course, your parents only had to find one box: The one containing the torch :-) I agree with you about the letterbox (or you could set fire to a bag of doorstep crap - mwahahahaaaa).

    209. Re:ROI by Doggabone · · Score: 1

      In the US (well, the parts I've paid attention to) "real property" is the land and anything attached to it. If you can lift it and carry it out (with or without help) with nothing more than disconnecting it from utilities (or something like a dryer vent) then it not part of the real property. ....

      I looked up chattel and real estate in Ontario, where I'm from. It's pretty much as you've found - if it's a "built in", it's real estate, but if it's stand-alone, it's chattels and you can take it.

      A chattel is a moveable object that has not been "annexed" to the property in a legal sense. A stand-up dishwasher is a chattel. A built-in dishwasher is not. Built-in appliances are part of the real estate. Independent stand-alone appliances are chattels. Electric lights fixtures are part of the real estate, but the light bulbs are not.

      From a real estate agent's blog, not a legal document. http://ontariorealestatesource.blogspot.com/2008/04/what-are-chattels.html

    210. Re:ROI by Doggabone · · Score: 1

      Flamebait? I'd rather sit in a dark living room than one lit by CFL's, (and I do). I use them selectively, too, and for pretty much the same reasons. As well, the last town I lived in had horribly inconsistent power levels, the house was 80+ years old with some knob and tube wiring - CFL bulbs died fast and expensively.

    211. Re:ROI by dbIII · · Score: 1

      I'm just getting them from supermarkets in Australia, but hardly ever turned them on below 25C let alone 20C :)
      I'm not sure if it's better starters, the slightly higher temperature or I just don't care enough about the brightness at startup to notice, especially since I use bulbs brighter than I need. If the warmup is noticably annoying then LEDs sound better.
      In most comparisons the old tungsten bulb is the baseline, halogens are a fair bit of the way towards CFLs in terms of light per watt anyway. The real point is to get that power bill down or in the case of places with a lot of lights getting the maintainance costs down.
      In terms of being green lighting is really not a big issue since it very rarely is part of peak power consumption and you still need to burn stuff to keep those base load stations running at night. It has only become an issue becuase it is the low hanging fruit that is relatively easy to change, gradually swap a million streetlights for something that uses less power and lasts longer and you see big differences. Air conditioning and heating are far bigger issues. Aircon is not that hard to reduce but heating is something that can not be so easily reduced.

    212. Re:ROI by johnlcallaway · · Score: 1

      Thank you...

      --
      I rarely read replies, it's my opinion and if you thought about your opinion a little more, I'm OK with that.
    213. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      Wow, I never realized how many people never bought a house, or if they did, they are illiterate. Citation? Google.

    214. Re:ROI by EricTheO · · Score: 1

      But compact fluorescents cost $2, save almost as much power/year, and last about 10 years. They are the most cost effective.

      CFL's also take more energy to produce that LED's and CFL's contain Mercury so they are classified as hazardous waste most are not dimmable. On the upside CFL's have a better color temperature that most "white" LED's.

      --
      -Eric
    215. Re:ROI by sjwt · · Score: 1

      Theres nothing unwriten about it. They are fixtuers of the house, they stay.

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    216. Re:ROI by AK+Marc · · Score: 1

      Electric lights fixtures are part of the real estate, but the light bulbs are not.

      Where I've looked (and no, I don't have any of the sale agreements on me, but I looked at them last month) the light bulbs are, unless otherwise stated, necessary pieces of the fixture. You wouldn't be able to remove the racks from a built-in dishwasher because that would be essentially disabling it. And, the light bulbs are considered the same. They are required for the real estate to function, and not having them in is a serious safety hazard. I would hazard a guess that it would be illegal to sell a home in the US with empty bulb sockets, just for the safety reason. But I've never looked at it from that direction.

    217. Re:ROI by Doggabone · · Score: 1

      I would hazard a guess that it would be illegal to sell a home in the US with empty bulb sockets, just for the safety reason. But I've never looked at it from that direction.

      Not that I'd ever consider it, either, and of course I'm no expert. But if I really felt the need, I'd be comfortable taking out expensive light bulbs and replacing them with cheaper ones. That sort of thing wouldn't be an issue for us - both times we've put our house up for sale, we've swapped out bulbs for bright incandescents anyway. And most of our home lighting is freestanding, neither of us enjoying the light from ceiling fixtures. But frankly, we've just sold the house. A few lightbulbs aren't going to make a difference, no matter what they cost.

      All that said, this is why the inclusions and exclusions list is important. One example I tripped over is that while it is assumed that a wall mounted mirror is a fixture, a wall mounted TV is not. But if the notion of "attached to the property" is taken literally, a case might be made for the TV being a fixture. If you want it with the house, include it and if you're taking it with you - exclude it. Caveat emptor, and caveat venditor, too. Not that any of it is my expertise, except that I like to live without being sued.

      Another blog post, from a lawyer in Australia this time, that seems to say the same thing as everything else I found (but more clearly): http://www.propertyupdate.com.au/articles/104/1/Fixture-Fixation/Page1.html

    218. Re:ROI by pugugly · · Score: 1

      I've bought and sold a house, and I've googled everything obvious that might reveal such a thing, and I've checked the UCC, plus my business law book.

      There may be something in Alaska to that effect, but nothing in interstate agreements or federal law that I can find implies you're doing anything but talking through your hat.

      I think it's courteous to leave light-bulbs, but I can't find anything requiring you to do so. So yeah, [citation needed] + [OP is a jackass that prefers being insulting to backing up what he says.]

      {G} - Pug

      --
      An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
    219. Re:ROI by H3g3m0n · · Score: 1

      I had a LED light blow within 6 months. This was a cheapo one though and the powers not so clean here but it's somthing to watch for befoure forking over money to redo your whole house.

      --
      cat /dev/urandom > .sig
    220. Re:ROI by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'd rather a little mercury contained in a CFL (it's not going to get out unless you break it) than significantly more pumped into the atmosphere by coal power plants to provide the extra electricity for incandescent bulbs. Bulbs aren't going to get broken while in ceiling fittings, so don't pose a hazard there, you just need to take a little care when changing them which shouldn't be often anyway.

    221. Re:ROI by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      Incandescent lights with an Energy rating of C or better are still okay. This applies to most halogen bulbs. It's just the plain tungsten ones which are an issue.

    222. Re:ROI by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      One thing the EU specifications on light bulbs mandates are better start-up times. Or you could just not buy better products now.

  3. Not impressive lifetime for an LED by mpoulton · · Score: 4, Informative

    That's 38,143 hours. Not great for LEDs, actually. Most newer white LEDs are rated for 50k to 100k hours.

    --
    I am a geek attorney, but not your geek attorney unless you've already retained me. This is not legal advice.
    1. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Try to light your home with those then.

    2. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by Firehed · · Score: 1

      Aren't LED lifetimes usually rated to the point at which they hit half brightness, not die completely? And don't white LEDs tend to turn blue over time due to the powder stuff (sorry, it's almost 4am, I can't be bothered to look up the technical term) they use to adjust the color to white fading unevenly, or something to that general effect?

      In either case, it doesn't matter. If the apocalypse hasn't come in 19 years, you can bet your ass that we'll have much cheaper and better alternatives available.

      --
      How are sites slashdotted when nobody reads TFAs?
    3. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by Frosty+Piss · · Score: 1

      Well, as brought up elsewhere in this thread, perhaps they are not using a capacitor in there with a bridge rectifier and so ignoring half of the 50/60 Hz cycle (also turning the LED on and off very fast). This might reduce its life... I am not an EE, so I could have no clue...

      --
      If you want news from today, you have to come back tomorrow.
    4. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's a pretty sweet lifetime, actually.

      Imagine one LED with a lifetime of 100k hours. Now imagine a beowulf cluster of LEDs, each with an individual lifetime of 100k hours. The aggregate lifetime of the whole unit is significantly less than it is for each individual LED.

      Think about it like computers. If you have 1 computer, linux, and luck -- it might last 10 years. If you have 10,000 computers, you'll be replacing click-of-doom hard drives every day.

    5. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      Its normal to pulse LEDs at a couple of Khz. They are more efficient that way. Pulsing at 50 or 60 hz should present no problems. (INAEE either).

    6. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by Mattsson · · Score: 2, Informative

      On the other hand, we're talking high-power LEDs here.
      The high power comes at the price of shortened life.

      --
      /.Mattsson - My native language is not English, so please don't whine over linguistic errors. (That's lame anyway...)
    7. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by Kagetsuki · · Score: 1

      That is basically correct, pulsing is often done to run LEDs at a higher brightness than they would run at in optimal constant current conditions. By pulsing you can push more power into the LED, then give it a moment to cool back down (rest), then do it again - thusly getting a brighter albeit less constant light.

      As for LED light bulbs, there will be either be a rectifier which will be forcing a constant line polarity (converting external AC to internal DC) or you'll have two chains of LEDs backwards to each other on an AC line. In the case there are two lines backwards to each other one line will turn on while the other turns off as the current alternates, then as the current alternates back that condition will reverse. As the LEDs are diodes, the chain backwards to the momentary current will simply impede reverse current. Though it may sound like a crude way to run DC LEDs on an AC line, it's actually very often used in large scale LED strip lighting as a cost/complexity cutting measure.

    8. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by l00sr · · Score: 1

      If you define "failure" as "X % of the LEDs fail", then 38K hours sounds perfectly reasonable for a bulb made of seven one-watt LEDs. That said, I have no idea how many LEDs are in this thing.

    9. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by Carnildo · · Score: 1

      LEDs don't work that way. The number quoted is the brightness half-life: after 100k hours, your LED is half as bright as it used to be. Now, imagine a beowulf cluster of LEDs, each with an individual lifetime of 100k hours. The aggregate lifetime of the whole unit is the same as it is for each individual LED: after 100k hours, the array will be putting out half as much light as it used to.

      --
      "They redundantly repeated themselves over and over again incessantly without end ad infinitum" -- ibid.
    10. Re:Not impressive lifetime for an LED by corerunner · · Score: 1

      You forgot to account for the numerous other components required to drive the LEDs. My bet is the capacitors are the first to go.

      --
      "Don't hate the media, become the media." -Jello Biafra
  4. Philips by PARENA · · Score: 2, Insightful

    If this is the longest one lasting, then how come the Philips led 'bulb' I have says 20 years?

    --
    Here's the secret to immortality: ...oh dang, I forgot.
    1. Re:Philips by Farmer+Tim · · Score: 4, Funny

      Because in 18 years a bunch of heavy-set guys in Panasonic overalls will come around and make sure your Philips bulb has a little "accident".

      --
      Blank until /. makes another boneheaded UI decision.
    2. Re:Philips by Technician · · Score: 1

      I picked up some. I used one constantly for about 2 months for the reptile cage. I percieve it seems to be dim, so I swapped it with another i used intermittantly. The difference in intensity is very striking. If they put out less than 1/2 the light after only a couple months use, they are not worth the money. I'll wait to find some that don't fade rapidly.

      --
      The truth shall set you free!
    3. Re:Philips by David+Off · · Score: 1

      Interesting. My local supermarket is selling LED bulbs rated at 50 years! I bet the electronics give out sooner though, esp. if they are made in China.

      Regarding CFL, I fitted my house out 5 years ago in all the rooms where lights tend to stay switched on for a long time (e.g. all evening) and have only had 1 blow so I count that as a win. The wiring isn't great (it's France). In rooms like the loo where the light goes on and off I still have incandescents but will move to LED technology soon.

      We only have a 6kw supply to the house and heat with electricity so saving power is very important to me.

  5. Hope they put a capacitor in there by corsec67 · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I hope they put a capacitor in there with a bridge rectifier instead of just ignoring half of the 50/60 Hz cycle.

    --
    If I have nothing to hide, don't search me
    1. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by fons · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Seems an interesting comment, but I don't understand it.
      Could you explain this to me?

    2. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by paul248 · · Score: 5, Informative

      You really think Philips would try selling a half-wave rectified LED emitter for $40? That would be so unbelievably awful, you'd probably see return rates close to 100%.

      Hell, even the LED Christmas lights I bought at Wal-mart last year are full-wave.

    3. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by iamapizza · · Score: 5, Funny

      You do realize why the Borg are so bad at making dimmer switches don't you?
      Resistance is futile.

      --
      Always proofread carefully to see if you any words out.
    4. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Er, Panasonic, not Philips. Same difference.

    5. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      LED's operate on DC power, one rail is posative and then they swap. ignoring half the cycle means that the LED is on only when the first rail is posative so its flashing on and off really fast.

    6. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      A typical bulb sees 50Hz 110V or 240V coming into it. When the signal goes above 0V it starts to glow, when it goes below 0V it starts to glow, back and forth faster than the eye can see.
      LEDs don't work on a negative signal so the signal needs to be rectified. Half wave rectification means that when it goes above 0V you start getting power to the LED, when you go below 0V you don't. So the LED is on for only half the time. Full wave rectification flips the negative part to the positive side and you get something more closely resembling what normal bulbs do.

      In real laymen terms:
      Full wave is fine,
      Half wave is a flickery mess.

    7. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by bami · · Score: 2, Informative

      Addendum:

      And the capacitor is there to keep the current going for the time the voltage is around 0V. This isn't really a problem for incandescent light bulbs since they after-glow for the time there is no voltage on the bulb, so you get a consistent glow. This is not the case with CFL's as they only marginally afterglow, and even worse with LEDs since they don't glow at all when the power is cut.

      Without it:
      Normal lightbulb: pretty consistent light
      CFL: 50hz or 60hz flicker
      LED: 25hz or 30hz flicker (without rectifier).

      No wonder people get headaches from standing around in CFL's all the time.

    8. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by PeterBrett · · Score: 1

      I hope they put in some smarts so that it looks resistive rather than cutting off the peaks like a capacitor and bridge rectifier does.

      If I remember correctly, power factor correction is a requirement nowadays (for European household electrical equipment, at least). So I would guess so.

    9. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Jared555 · · Score: 2, Insightful

      A lot of LED christmas lights seem to have a visible flicker noticable from half a mile away. They probably don't have anything along the lines of smoothing capacitors in them. Hopefully we are talking about better technology though

    10. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by jabuzz · · Score: 1

      Or you could just fit two LED's back to back they are after all diodes.

    11. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by 91degrees · · Score: 1

      Can you expand on this? I understand the terminology (sort of) but not quite sure why we need this.

    12. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by taniwha · · Score: 1

      there's almost certainly a whole lot more going on in there than just a rectifier and a cap - more likely the lights contain a PFC stage and a modulated constant current power stage (for dimming). power leds need to run at a constant current - typically 350mA or 1A at ~4v - too little and you get no efficiency, too much and your lifetime suffers. Just hooking up a voltage dropping resistor and plugging it in the wall is not going to do anything useful.

    13. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The rectification is probably the least of the electronics in those LED bulbs... most will probably be transforming the 110V or 240V to a lower voltage.

    14. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Wierdy1024 · · Score: 1

      I don't see the advantage of full wave rectification, except possibly to meet power regulations. A pulsed LED actually appears brighter to the human eye, and provided the average power through it is the same as a full wave rectified model then the brightness should be the same*. The only real reasons for going full wave rectified and smoothed is either where power regulations specify certain restrictions on power harmonics (imagine if every device was half wave rectified in the world, then the power supply would be loaded at some points in the cycle more than others, and you would no longer get a nice clean sine wave), or where you want a constant voltage to make design of the rest of the circuit easier (eg. digital electronics).
      .

      * LED's can be an exception to this in certain cases, since the number of photons produced per second is not linear to the instantaneous current.

    15. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by markdavis · · Score: 1

      Not any of the ones *I* saw at Walmart. And I tried them ALL. EVERY SINGLE SET flickered like a son of a *****. It was obvious they were not using any type of advanced power supply at all.

    16. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by bcmm · · Score: 1

      An awful lot of humans can see a 50 or 60Hz flicker. Quite a few, myself included, find this very annoying, and potentially migraine-inducing. Personally, I also find flickering bulbs disorienting when moving around; if I'm tired and reach out quickly for something in my field of vision, for example, I will see my hand, illuminated by the flicker, multiple times as in a strobe photograph.

      --
      # cat /dev/mem | strings | grep -i llama
      Damn, my RAM is full of llamas.
    17. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by vlm · · Score: 1

      Or you could just fit two LED's back to back they are after all diodes.

      diodes ... with ridiculously low peak inverse voltage ratings, not a whole heck of a lot higher than their typical forward voltage drop. With a simple series current limiting resistor, a minor momentary voltage surge (distant lightning storm, mechanically switch an inductive load, whatever) will cause a minor momentary increase in forward current for a conducting LED so who cares, but it'll blow the reverse biased non-conducting LED wide open. Thats how LEDs die...

      Now stick an 1N4000 series in line with each LED string, maybe they'll survive, maybe.

      --
      "Science flies us to the moon. Religion flies us into buildings." - Victor Stenger
    18. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      The advantage of full wave rectification is not that the light source is brighter or dimmer, but that the light source no longer appears to be BLINKING LIKE A MOFO. A 60Hz blink is pretty annoying on the eyes.

    19. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Nope, it's not mandatory. You can buy gizmos that will do PFC for you (and a variant on energy saving is on trial with one of the UK's energy supply companies - see link below), but consensus is that PFC/Power saving at a domestic level has negligible benefits to the householder's bill so there is little incentive to buy the devices (unless you fall for the marketing hype), but en-masse there may be benefits so the generating companies may have to either force the issue, subsidise the unit cost or slide them into new builds as part of the fabric costs.

      Info: http://en-gb.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=46235302297

      There's also an (Australian?) article somewhere on the 'net that outlines some tests done with domestic PFC/voltage regulation systems that concluded they did bugger all.

    20. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I hope they put a capacitor in there with a bridge rectifier instead of just ignoring half of the 50/60 Hz cycle.

      LED -> Light emitting DIODE.

    21. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      I hope they put a capacitor in there with a bridge rectifier instead of just ignoring half of the 50/60 Hz cycle.

      Seems an interesting comment, but I don't understand it.
      Could you explain this to me?

      It's like a 1-stroke combustion engine versus a 2-stroke one.

    22. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by omnichad · · Score: 1

      You just reminded me of all those terrible new LED Christmas lights that give me a headache just to glance at them.

    23. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by rcw-home · · Score: 1

      I hope they put a capacitor in there with a bridge rectifier instead of just ignoring half of the 50/60 Hz cycle.

      A capacitor would negatively affect the bulb's power factor unless carefully sized and paired with a matched inductor. Just using the bridge rectifier would allow the LED to use both halves. LEDs tend to blow up when you get them too hot, not when you feed them too much current for very short periods, so there isn't any particular need to smooth out the current.

    24. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by j79zlr · · Score: 1

      Uh, voltage doesn't go negative, it goes to zero, unless you have a bulb that is magically producing voltage potential greater than the hot line.

      --
      I'm not not licking toads.
    25. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      See, Eliza, that is one thing a computer program like you never has to wonder about. Just think about something else... :D

    26. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You're otherwise correct, but modern CFLs (those that have an integrated ballast) use high-frequency electronics, so their flicker rate is usually cranked up to something like 20kHz.

    27. Re:Hope they put a capacitor in there by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      This only really applies to incandescent bulbs that run directly off mains power.
      All other forms of lighting require different voltage and a constant current. What you have in CFLs and LED bulbs are small PSUs to deliver the electricity needed.
      The 60 Hz flicker only occurs on older, usually large "office-type" Fluorescent tubes, because of the older and inferior transformers and electronics. Newer CFLs use switched-mode power supplies which operate at far higher frequencies and don't produce flicker.

      It isn't actually possible to run fluorescent lamps or LEDs directly off mains electricity, at least if you don't want it to blow within a second.

  6. Irony by Joebert · · Score: 0

    You know in a few years, those Pollock jokes about solar powered flashlights aren't going to be too far off the mark, judging by recent events.

    --
    Wanna fight ? Bend over, stick your head up your ass, and fight for air.
    1. Re:Irony by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      They already exist? You can get solar powered LED light key chains. The little bit of solar light that happens to fall on your keys every once and a while is enough to charge the battery.

    2. Re:Irony by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yep, just like blue poles - a complete joke.

  7. but what about the faliure rate? by wjh31 · · Score: 1

    In my experiance, LED bulbs have a very high faliure rate. Granted i got the cheapest ones i could find, but still...

    1. Re:but what about the faliure rate? by guruevi · · Score: 1

      That's indeed the problem with the cheapest one. It's also the problem with the cheapest CFL's (aside from the dim light and flicker). I recently bought Philips' 3W & 6W LED's and they are awesome, have great light (very similar to halogens for my recessed lighting actually - no blueish light) and have a 20y warranty.

      The issue with the cheapest LED's is that they aren't cooled enough or they don't have the really high-powered LED's in them making them unsuitable for just about anything. The bad/no cooling makes them fail really quickly because even though they are very low power (6W) they still generate plenty of heat which is usually not being mechanically removed. Heat and silicon don't really mix all that well (try your CPU without a cooling fin).

      --
      Custom electronics and digital signage for your business: www.evcircuits.com
  8. LED diffusion problems by bzipitidoo · · Score: 4, Interesting

    The LED lights I've seen are too directed. They don't light up a room all that well. Whatever spot the LEDs are aimed at is more illuminated, and everywhere else less illuminated than with CFLs or incandescents.

    --
    Intellectual Property is a monopolistic, selfish, and defective concept. It is "tyranny over the mind of man"
    1. Re:LED diffusion problems by PeterBrett · · Score: 1

      The LED lights I've seen are too directed. They don't light up a room all that well. Whatever spot the LEDs are aimed at is more illuminated, and everywhere else less illuminated than with CFLs or incandescents.

      This can usually be alleviated by a good design of emitter geometry, lens and diffuser. Unfortunately, designing good lenses is difficult, and fabricating and assembling the resulting complex shapes is expensive.

    2. Re:LED diffusion problems by Jared555 · · Score: 1

      That is why you design it so you can replace the LEDs, circuitry, and lens separately.

    3. Re:LED diffusion problems by Technician · · Score: 1

      I find this marketing scheme is often used to sell underpowered bulbs. They don't match the lumens/watt of a CFL. They just match the intensity of the beam to an unfocused CFL at the same distance and claim it is a 60 Watt replacement when it's really a 15 watt replacement.

      Before buying any LED lamp, check the Lumens. A 60 Watt incandescant lamp is about 800 Lumens. Many LED counterparts are only 80 lumens. Philips Par 38 16 watt LED lamp is only 850 Lumens. How many 3 or 5 watt LED bulbs have you seen claiming to replace a 60 watt bulb?

      Only a few lamps are high lumens/watt, and many have rapid breakdown of the flourescent material causing rapid reduction in output such as the bulbs I have. What's the saving when the bulb though still burning puts out less than 1/2 the light after 2 months of use?

      I'm not buying many more of these until this issue is solved.

      --
      The truth shall set you free!
    4. Re:LED diffusion problems by Technician · · Score: 1

      Sorry to double post. Just found a page with a graph showing my issue with life.
      http://www.philipslumileds.com/technology/images/maint_chart_large.jpg

      This page has the graph showing typical LED lamps at 1/2 brightness at 6,000 hours. Many claim life of 50,000 hours, but it's no longer useable and no longer effecient At 16,000 hours many only put out 20% of the light. This is not a savings. The bulbs I'm testing has a huge dimming after only 2 months, not 1 year.

      The graph is on this page;
      http://www.philipslumileds.com/technology/lumenmaintenance.cfm

      --
      The truth shall set you free!
    5. Re:LED diffusion problems by niks42 · · Score: 1
      re: limited life of white LEDs: Is this because white LEDs use phosphor - the lifetime of the phosphor limits the light output life of a white LED?

      I've used superflux LEDs to light rooms, and it does need a lot - 150 30mW LEDs for a bathroom to be lit quite well. I use LEDs for under cabinet lighting in the kitchen - 56 per cabinet, and that is really great - works well with architectural lighting controllers.

      Superflux LEDs have a much wider angle of light dispersion - 110 degrees or so.

    6. Re:LED diffusion problems by asc99c · · Score: 1

      You must not have seen this one :)

      http://www.ledteck.co.uk/led1.php

      I've got these in my bathroom, and the photo isn't misleading - when switched on, the front of the bulb is a consistent wall of light. I don't much like the look of halogen reflector bulbs, the 6 would use 300W anyway, and I haven't seen GU10 CFLs that don't stick out from the standard size recess.

      There's 6 to light the room (13.8W) and so given the total cost (£70 - about $100) I don't really see LEDs taking over from CFLs for mainstream usage until some further breakthrough on price is made. As the article points out, the power saving over incandescents is worthwhile, but unless you've got an incandescent hatred of CFLs, the power saving vs those doesn't make sense at this price.

    7. Re:LED diffusion problems by freg · · Score: 1

      I agree, though maybe putting multiple LEDs at different angles inside a white/frosted bulb would solve that.

  9. Re:Light bulb as a service by EvanED · · Score: 5, Informative

    till you break them and contaminate the room in mercury. Professional remediation is about $3000.

    You forgot to finish your thought with "if you compeletely and unjustifiably overreact.

  10. Summary Misleading by Techman83 · · Score: 3, Interesting
    Summary

    Panasonic recently unveiled a remarkable 60-watt household LED bulb that they claim can last up to 19 years

    TFA

    The bulbs use only an eighth the power of incandescents. That means a 60-watt-equivalent LED bulb would cost only 300 yen (about $3) a year instead of 2,380 yen ($25.80)--a significant savings over a lifetime.

    The box pictured on the right has "6.9w", which if as good as a 60 watt incandescent, is probably only a watt or two better than the equivalent CFL.

    --
    # cat /dev/mem | strings | grep -i cat
    Damn, my RAM is full of cats. MEOW!!
    1. Re:Summary Misleading by jklovanc · · Score: 1

      A 13W CFL is equivalent to a 60W incandescent so the 6.9W LED is still almost half of the CFL load.

    2. Re:Summary Misleading by Techman83 · · Score: 1

      Depends on the CFL I guess, the 11watt ones I have are way brighter then a 60watt globe.

      --
      # cat /dev/mem | strings | grep -i cat
      Damn, my RAM is full of cats. MEOW!!
    3. Re:Summary Misleading by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The efficiency claims for LEDs are outrageous bullshit. Some even claim 20 times the light output per Watt compared to incandescent bulbs. In reality the best LEDs on the market achieve about 6 times the efficiency (i.e. just above CFLs), without taking the losses in the required electronics into account. Cheap LED bulbs (standard LEDs with cheap electronics) are hardly twice as efficient as incandescent bulbs.

    4. Re:Summary Misleading by clone53421 · · Score: 1

      Not only that, but the headline is misleading.

      Headline: "Panasonic's New LED Bulbs Shine For 19 Years"

      Summary: "can last up to 19 years (if used 5-1/2 hours a day)"

      They shine for about 4.35416667 years, not 19.

      --
      Alexander Peter Kristopeit bought his basement from his mommy for one dollar.
    5. Re:Summary Misleading by Scyber · · Score: 1

      There is also the fact that most LED bulbs I see advertised are already listed from 30k - 50k hours life time. Which is something like 15-25 years at 5.5 hours a day.

    6. Re:Summary Misleading by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I just bought some 60w equivalent CFLs that are listed as taking 15w, so it is doing it on half the power of a CFL. Though, I think I got the CFLs for something like $3 a piece.

  11. How can they know for sure ? by Atreide · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Does it mean they have tested that technology for 19 years and their bulb just died ?

    Man if MS could test their product that way ! :)

    --
    The world belongs to those who get up early. - I'm far from being the king of Earth then :-(
    1. Re:How can they know for sure ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Does it mean they have tested that technology for 19 years and their bulb just died ?

      Sadly no. There's much simpler explanation. It only means that they have invented a time machine.

    2. Re:How can they know for sure ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      No, they tested 100 of them for (19/100) years.

      actually, more likely, they used a Bellcore or similar MTBF estimation .

    3. Re:How can they know for sure ? by IBBoard · · Score: 1

      At least a 19 year life estimate is more realistic than the newer and more accurate clock that is said to lose only 1s over 300 million years!

    4. Re:How can they know for sure ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What do you think "end users" are for?

    5. Re:How can they know for sure ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      MS already test their product like that.

      MS-Guy1: Hey, Windows 7 is ready for shipping!
      MS-Guy2: How do you know? You've only been testing it for about 5minutes
      MS-Guy1: I just got it to blue screen.

    6. Re:How can they know for sure ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How can they know for sure ?

      They nuked one from orbit.

    7. Re:How can they know for sure ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Windows dies on a weekly cycle. That's why their product development is so advanced...

  12. 19 years, huh? by merikari · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I'll believe when I see it.

    --
    My other SIG is a Sauer.
  13. Light temperature by jklovanc · · Score: 5, Interesting

    My main problem with LEDs that I have seen is that their light is to cold and white. It hurts my eyes and causes migraines. I didn't see a temperature quoted in the article.

    1. Re:Light temperature by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      From link in TFA: Available in "Daylight" and warm "Lamp" colors

      Not that they list a figure for what these are. I've seen cheep 'warm white' CFLs that have a colour rating higher than the expensive brand 'cool white'

    2. Re:Light temperature by rdebath · · Score: 4, Informative

      This is because the really bright white LEDs are actually monochrome blue, they have a phosphor that converts some of that blue light into other colours, but not normally enough for a nice (sun like) colour.

      There are other techniques that seem to convert the frequencies better; or they could use the old trick of putting different colour LEDs in one bulb. But for the moment if you want highest efficiency you're stuck with lots of blue in the light and a "cold" feel.

      One point though, white LEDs are normally closer to the spectrum of the sun than incandescents, it's just that the blue spike is in the opposite direction to the very reduced blues you get from a incandescent. This is a known problem, so the conversions will continue to get better.

    3. Re:Light temperature by greenlead · · Score: 1

      I've noticed that this problem is especially bad at the beginning of flu symptoms. If you are photosensitive, the LED light output pierces your eyes like a knife.

      Maybe they could put differing colors of LEDs into the fixture, with a color selection switch on the lamp to determine which output type is appropriate for the occasion.

    4. Re:Light temperature by niks42 · · Score: 1

      I prefer using monochromatic LEDs in arrays. Chances are you will need a bunch of LEDs to do anything meaningful anyway.

    5. Re:Light temperature by spectrokid · · Score: 1

      If you look at the japanese page, for each wattage they have two boxes, where one shows a blue-ish and one a yellowish light.

      --

      10 ?"Hello World" life was simple then

    6. Re:Light temperature by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Two words "continuous spectrum", or better, the lack thereoff...

      Same here, the LED light is indeed almost white, but colour reproduction is poor, perhaps that is causing your problems.

      Three colours simply cannot replace the full spectrum radiated by a white hot tungsten wire (or the surface of the sun...)

    7. Re:Light temperature by macshit · · Score: 1

      This is because the really bright white LEDs are actually monochrome blue, they have a phosphor that converts some of that blue light into other colours, but not normally enough for a nice (sun like) colour.

      There are other techniques that seem to convert the frequencies better; or they could use the old trick of putting different colour LEDs in one bulb. But for the moment if you want highest efficiency you're stuck with lots of blue in the light and a "cold" feel.

      One point though, white LEDs are normally closer to the spectrum of the sun than incandescents, it's just that the blue spike is in the opposite direction to the very reduced blues you get from a incandescent. This is a known problem, so the conversions will continue to get better.

      Still, they're much better than any fluorescent light I've ever seen, no matter what the florescent claims to be simulating... Did you ever see the spectrum of a typical florescent light? Insane weird spiky shit; LEDs are not exactly like an incandescent, but they're an awful lot closer...

      --
      We live, as we dream -- alone....
    8. Re:Light temperature by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      I've got some integrated RGB LEDs. You can selectively dim any of the three colours so you can basically choose any colour light you want. THAT would be cool scaled up to the equivalent of a 60 W bulb. Imagine having a dual dimmer switch - one knob for brightness, one knob for colour temperature. Or four knobs, and you've got your own fully configurable mood lighting.

    9. Re:Light temperature by smellsofbikes · · Score: 1

      My main problem with LEDs that I have seen is that their light is to cold and white. It hurts my eyes and causes migraines. I didn't see a temperature quoted in the article.

      Not that these are widely available yet, but lots of good LED lighting system designs right now use cool white LED's, which have the best efficiency but the same cold blue light you dislike, and amber LED's, which add in a lot of warmth, and include a small sensor to do closed-loop color control to make sure the light stays at its rated quality throughout the lifetime of the bulb. Cool white LED's change color significantly over their lifetime, and the early attempts to make higher-light-quality bulbs by just adding some amber LED's looked great for a couple hundred hours and then got increasingly bleh. (Owners might not mind because they wouldn't notice a slow change over time, but when you're looking at commercial lighting for, say, museum illumination, then people care very much.)

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    10. Re:Light temperature by elFisico · · Score: 1

      But for the moment if you want highest efficiency you're stuck with lots of blue in the light and a "cold" feel.

      No, you're not. LED-bulbs are availabe in daylight and warm-white. Though the warm-white may have a greenish tint, just like some cheap CFLs. But that will go away very fast when the turn-over accelerates and companies see money in opimizing the fluorescent inside the LED.

    11. Re:Light temperature by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I don't know man, I thought lights were SUPPOSED to be white. If I wanted a yellow light, I would go the whole way and buy a yellow party bulb. Seriously, I hate the color that old incandescents give off... all of the bulbs in my house are CFL, but I always buy the normal (slightly bluish) ones, not the ones that try to mimic the old style's yellow color. I don't think the Yellow is "better", some people are just used to it is all. (particularly older people, I notice).

    12. Re:Light temperature by kimvette · · Score: 1

      They are available as "soft white" (yellowish like incandescents), "pure white" (about 3500K-4300K, very white without any hint of blue), "daylight" (blue-white like crappy "HID style" headlights (probably 6000K-7000K). It is probably the "daylight" ones you are annoyed by.

      I dislike both the soft white and the daylight CFLs. I'll take soft white over the daylight any day, and the pure white are hard to find in most stores (you won't find them at Sprawl*Mart or K-Mart for example). Home Depot carries pure white CFLs though.

      --
      The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    13. Re:Light temperature by jklovanc · · Score: 1

      I was talking about LEDs not CFLs. The CFLs have improved quite a bit and I use them. LEDs, I am not sure about

  14. Re:Light bulb as a service by Joebert · · Score: 5, Funny

    $3000 se ms a lit le high to me too. I pai ted a gar ge once and fou d some merc ry rol ing arou d on the floor as I was pres ure wash ng. I just sco ped it up with a du tpan and put it in a jar. I'm perf ctly fine, it's not like I'm dead or hand ca ped or anyth ng now.

    --
    Wanna fight ? Bend over, stick your head up your ass, and fight for air.
  15. Bad mathematics? by Teun · · Score: 4, Informative

    $40 still seems pretty pricey for a light bulb, even one that promises to save $23 a year in energy costs

    You must be an accountant living on the outdated system of monthly and quarterly figures.
    To have an amortisation within 2 years and outright profit for 17 years afterwards sounds like a pretty damn good investment.

    --
    "The likes of Facebook and WhatsApp are free to those whose privacy is of zero value."
    1. Re:Bad mathematics? by gabebear · · Score: 1

      You need to first look at Haitz's Law. If Haitz's Law holds for 3 more years, then the bulb should half in price.

      If you use a certain light a LOT, then $40 may make sense today. Looking 3 years out; you would want to save at least saved $20(half the cost) over an incandescent. You would have to be paying $7.43/year to light your current 60W bulb for this replacement to make sense.

      ($20/3years)*(1+(6.9W/60W))=$7.43/year

    2. Re:Bad mathematics? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You must be an accountant living on the outdated system of monthly and quarterly figures.

      Oh, you mean a typical corporate bean-counter justifying executive bonuses!

    3. Re:Bad mathematics? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Outdated? Seriously did you see the economic collapse? This type of accounting is exactly what caused it.

  16. Everything was soo much better in the old days by SensiMillia · · Score: 1

    For instance, the good old light bulb. This one is going for over a hundred years and still counting.

    I wonder how long it will takes before LED bulbs beat that (yes, at least a 108 years)

    1. Re:Everything was soo much better in the old days by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Drive a LED at an extremely low current and with good heat management and the lifetime goes exponentially up. Difference is a LED at low current actually gains efficiency while the centennial bulb is an efficiency nightmare.

    2. Re:Everything was soo much better in the old days by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A 4-watt bulb that was hand-blown...yeah, that's a good general purpose light.

  17. halogen replacements? by dltaylor · · Score: 1

    While I wouldn't mind using LED as replacements when the existing CFL wear out, particularly if they are less toxic when discarded, what I really need is a replacement for halogen small US base and bayonet, along with a few "candelabra" small base bulbs. Dimming would be a plus.

    Anyone making those yet?

    1. Re:halogen replacements? by werfu · · Score: 1

      I'm seeking halogen replacement too. I need PAR20 50W equivalent. These halogen lights make so much heats in the basement it get incomfortable pretty fast if all the 15 are on. I've found a CFL replacement that meets my need but unfortunately it won't fit as the bulb is too long :(

    2. Re:halogen replacements? by elFisico · · Score: 1

      While I wouldn't mind using LED as replacements when the existing CFL wear out, particularly if they are less toxic when discarded, what I really need is a replacement for halogen small US base and bayonet, along with a few "candelabra" small base bulbs. Dimming would be a plus.

      Anyone making those yet?

      Hmm, don't know about your socket requirement (I'm not US-based), but have a look at EarthLed.com, they have replacements for 10W halogen bulbs as well as most CFL forms. And yes, they are dimmable.

    3. Re:halogen replacements? by elFisico · · Score: 1

      Have a look at EarthLed.com, they have LED PAR20 replacements.

    4. Re:halogen replacements? by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      They make CFLs as well as LED lamps in those sizes, although most LED solutions are far too dim.
      I'm guessing this is the sort of thing you're after: http://ebulbshop.com/acatalog/Megaman_Dors_Dimming_GU10_.html

    5. Re:halogen replacements? by LordVader717 · · Score: 1

      Yeah, they make those. Both with CFL and LEDs, although LEDs are usually far too dim.

      I'm guessing this is what you're after: http://ebulbshop.com/acatalog/Megaman_Dors_Dimming_GU10_.html

  18. Long life bulbs cost versus cost of replacement... by sl149q · · Score: 4, Informative

    I was talking to the facilities manager at the local University... about cost to replace bulbs in some of his buildings.. In some cases it is literally in the many tens of thousands of dollars range. They have to bring scaffolding in with a small crew to erect and move around. (Doors too small for a lift.)

    He would be more than happy to pay $42/bulb IFF it meant he didn't have to go back in for two decades.

  19. Future by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I think anyone that knows anything about lighting technology knows that LEDs are the future and that CFLs are just a temporary replacement for incandescent. It wont be long before the cost gets down and LED becomes vastly superior to CFL. The municipalities that are mandating CFL are very short sighted.

    That is, until something appears that is superior to LED, but that thing isn't even on the horizon yet.

  20. Comment removed by account_deleted · · Score: 1

    Comment removed based on user account deletion

  21. Re:Light bulb as a service by jklovanc · · Score: 3, Insightful

    The mercury release caused by burning coal (burning coal releases quite a bit of mercury into the air) to produce the extra energy to run an incandescent for a year is more than the mercury contained in one CF.

    Should CFs be disposed of properly? Yes.
    Is one broken CF a hazmat issue? No.

  22. re: whine on you crazy diamond by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Things don't become useless just because they are marginally suboptimal. 38k hours really is close enough to the 50-100k range you quoted, unless you're playing horseshoes or hand grenades.

  23. What is 5-1/2 hours a day? by Inda · · Score: 1

    Colour me stupid but what is 5-1/2 hours a day?

    Did someone steal the decimal point off your keyboard? Or maybe even the comma, if you're from that part of the world?

    C'mon, behave yourself.

    --
    This post contains benzene, nitrosamines, formaldehyde and hydrogen cyanide.
    1. Re:What is 5-1/2 hours a day? by dingen · · Score: 1

      Actually, my maths teacher would be proud.

      --
      Pretty good is actually pretty bad.
    2. Re:What is 5-1/2 hours a day? by amRadioHed · · Score: 1

      Looks like they mean 4.5 hours. Not sure why they wrote didn't just write it out.

      --
      We hope your rules and wisdom choke you / Now we are one in everlasting peace
    3. Re:What is 5-1/2 hours a day? by cbreak · · Score: 1

      5-1/2 = 5-0.5 = 4.5 in hours
      That's 270 minutes.

    4. Re:What is 5-1/2 hours a day? by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      Okay. 4.5 Hours.

    5. Re:What is 5-1/2 hours a day? by Ksevio · · Score: 1

      I'd guess that they mean 5.5 hours, but since fractions look nicer, they put it in mixed fraction form, but since 5 1/2 looks awkward or like 51/2 they stuck in a hyphen to show that it's not 25.5 hours a day.

    6. Re:What is 5-1/2 hours a day? by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      5.1/2 hours per day??

      The proper form, called a proper fraction, is 5 1/2 hours a day.

  24. Dimness by Masa · · Score: 4, Interesting

    But how dim they get over time? It's pretty pointless to have a LED light that lasts 19 years, if the light gets so dim after few years that it is practically unusable.

    1. Re:Dimness by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

      They probably won't go dark even after 19 years. The lifespan of long lasting light emitters is typically defined as the time until their brightness drops below half the specified intensity. Due to the response curve of the human eye, half the brightness is not as drastic as it sounds and the emitter won't have to be replaced early in most applications. I'd be more concerned about the power electronics driving the emitters.

    2. Re:Dimness by Idiomatick · · Score: 1

      If you think hard I'm sure you have an LED thats 30yrs old somewhere in your house. Go tell me if it is dim.

    3. Re:Dimness by canajin56 · · Score: 1

      White LEDs are actually blue/ultraviolet LEDs that have a white phosphor coating, sort of like in a fluorescent tube. Just because a green LED on a keyboard doesn't fade, doesn't mean that the phosphor coating works similarly.

      --
      ASCII stupid question, get a stupid ANSI
  25. Re:Light bulb as a service by goombah99 · · Score: 3, Informative

    "Mercury concentration in the study room air often exceeds the Maine Ambient Air Guideline (MAAG) of 300 nanograms per cubic meter (ng/m3) for some period of time, with short excursions over 25,000 ng/m3, sometimes over 50,000 ng/m3, and possibly over 100,000 ng/m3 from the breakage of a single compact fluorescent lamp. "

    study

    --
    Some drink at the fountain of knowledge. Others just gargle.
  26. What kills bulbs by missileman · · Score: 1

    ...is power cycling them, not burn time.

    Lets see how they fare when power cycled a few thousand times.

    I've never had a CFL last more than a year or so. Mythbusters did some interesting testing on lamps a few years ago. IIRC they set up a rig that turned all the lamps on and off every 2 minutes, 24/7. Within a month I think they were all dead, except for the good old cheap to manufacture, low carbon footprint to manufacture, dimmable, yet inefficient filament incandescent bulb.

    1. Re:What kills bulbs by amRadioHed · · Score: 3, Informative

      Nope, in the mythbusters test the only bulb that lasted a month was the LED (see 14:00 here).

      --
      We hope your rules and wisdom choke you / Now we are one in everlasting peace
    2. Re:What kills bulbs by missileman · · Score: 1

      Ahh, thanks for that.

      It's been a while since I've seen that.

      I still totally think CFLs suck. :)

    3. Re:What kills bulbs by Ant+P. · · Score: 1

      Want an example? Go run `find / | xargs md5sum` or something. Observe that the LED on the front of your PC doesn't spontaneously explode.

      In fact I've got a few 2W LED lights that have been going for about 2-3 years. A few of the individual LEDs aren't working, but that's because they've got poor quality solder joints that broke after a few days (stupid RoHS causes more problems than it ever solved).

    4. Re:What kills bulbs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      On a fluorescent there are two technical limits

      1. Strikes. You can switch it on only a finite number of times. Increasing this is tricky, and will anyway increase the production cost.

      2. Gas. The gas used leaks slowly, eventually even if you just switch it on once and leave it, the CFL will cease to function. You could increase this, but it would increase production cost.

      But in an incandescent, power cycles heat and cool the filament, which is bad for it, to make it stand up to this for longer you must use an even less efficient filament (that's what they did in "long life" incandescents for inaccessible places). While the incandescent is running the heat degrades the filament, eventually breaking it.

      As another slashdotter already pointed out, neither CFLs nor incandescents are likely to run for a month at 50% duty cycle 24/7 switching every 2 minutes. This isn't a very useful model of the lifespan of any household lamp (a warning lamp on something maybe, but a household lamp no). LEDs of course handle this fine (the LED doesn't really care much about being switched)

    5. Re:What kills bulbs by skeeto · · Score: 1

      Something is a bit screwy: they were measuring power in units of Watts / hour. I guessing the people that created the animations messed that up rather than Grant.

  27. Lies, damn lies by milosoftware · · Score: 1

    They always lie about the amount of radiated light.

    Put a 60W incandescent, "equivalent" tube, and "equivalent" LED next to each other. The good old light bulb is clearly brighter than the other two, and the LED is clearly even dimmer than the tube.

    How come those manufacturers get away with such obvious errors?

    --
    Musicians don't die. They just decompose.
    1. Re:Lies, damn lies by blueZ3 · · Score: 1

      They're not "errors" made by the engineers working on the lamps, they are marketing terms made up by the marketing guys.

      This is why you see CFLs and LED lamps marketed as being "equivalent" (not equal) to incandescent lamps, with light output rated as "intensity" (rather than in lumens, an absolute value). Go to any "green" lamp site and you'll see the weasel-words pile up faster than you thought possible.

      And they get away with it because while it's unethical, it's not illegal.

      --
      Interested in a Flash-based MAME front end? Visit mame.danzbb.com
  28. What else is there? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    CFLs contain mercury and I assume that most people just throw them in the trash when their done..either not having a clue they shouldn't be doing it or they just don't care. They consume much much more energy to make than normal bulbs and can emit UV if there are posphor issues.

    If LED lighting is soo effiecient why do all bulbs I've ever seen that output any reasonable amount of light come with massive heatsinks? The output spectrum is hollow and the led lighting I've seen looks like crap. LEDs may be effecient but not significantly more so than CFLs.

    Until vendors get their act together with a real solution that actually works I will keep buying the old incandescent crap.

  29. I don't like new bulbs by dvh.tosomja · · Score: 0

    I don't like new bulbs, no matter what is claimed watts, it still feels like it is too dark in the room.

  30. 19 Years at What Brightness? by MassiveForces · · Score: 1

    LEDs die by fading over time, they don't just go kaput. Over the 19 years, the brightness is sure to fade, the question is by how much until they determine that it needs replacing?

  31. Re: whine on you crazy diamond by Jared555 · · Score: 1

    unless you're playing horseshoes or hand grenades.

    You got that backwards. It is "Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades"

  32. Dim and dimmer by Air-conditioned+cowh · · Score: 1

    I will now proceed to rant...

    Equivalent to a 60W bulb is still too dim. I used to use 100W or 150W bulbs as standard before I switched to CFLs. Now I can't dim any of them. I have a dimmable CFL but can't find a suitable dimmer that is rated for dimming the 20W CFL. I hope this situation improves soon. And I hope LEDs bulbs don't make me wait another few years for dimmers rated down to 5W (assuming dimmable LED bulbs become available). I guess the best way to dim LEDs is inside the bulb itself and to use some kind of data signal from the dimmer switch to control it instead of trying to do it the old triac way.

    1. Re:Dim and dimmer by gabebear · · Score: 1

      Dimming florescent lighting isn't easily, and normally you can't dim them much, if you cut much power the tube will just go out. Dimming CFLs just isn't really worth it.

      Dimming LEDs is trivial, and the LED bulbs I've seen for sale are dimmable. You could make a LED bulb that dimmed just like a incandescent without much trouble.

    2. Re:Dim and dimmer by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      The bigger problem with dimmed CFLs is that they don't get warmer when they get dimmer. It's more like having a glowing monitor in the corner of a dark room. It's not nearly as romantic :)

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    3. Re:Dim and dimmer by elFisico · · Score: 1

      Dimmable LED-bulbs are no real problem, given that they have to use a regulated power supply anyway. See EarthLed.com, they have dimmable LED-bulbs and also have a LED-bulb to replace a 100W incandescent, but it is not dimmable (yet).

    4. Re:Dim and dimmer by canajin56 · · Score: 1

      Any good LED bulb should dim fine. They don't have to be designed for it, they just have to not be crappy. A diode only lets electricity flow in one direction through it. So, an LED needs DC juice. You can just plug in AC, but it will only be lit up when the AC power is flowing the correct way, otherwise its not lit up. So, the simplest solution is a diode rectifier. You take your "positive" and "negative" wire, and attach two normal diodes to them, both with their current flow pointed to the "in" side of your LED bulb. Then you do the same thing again with two more normal didoes pointing "out" from the "out" end of the LED bulb. There. No short because diodes are one-way streets. When AC is flowing one way, a complete circuit going the right way through the load. When it reverses, still a complete circuit, going the right way through the load. Four sufficiently rated non-light-emitting diodes are dirt cheap, and double the brightness of your bulb. But, AC is a sine wave. Most of the time you won't have "full power" through your rectifier. That will make it pulse. Better than the flickering you get without a rectifier, but still not as solid as you'd want. So, throw some capacitors at that bitch. Now you have the same average brightness, but its much more steady. I can't imagine it adds an appreciable amount to the cost of the device, but it makes the light output outstandingly superior.

      The long and the short is: Dimmers work by chopping off chunks of the AC sine wave. CFL ballasts hate that with a passion, they want a steady juice supply. Incandescents don't care. It makes them flicker, but since there is a big time delay between cutting power, and the filament not glowing anymore, it's not noticeable. A crappy LED would flicker like a mofo when dimmed. An LED with a diode rectifier would flicker also, but twice as fast so it would be less noticeable. An LED with a diode rectifier plus capacitor wouldn't flicker at all. Or at least, wouldn't flicker until its turned down really low and the capacitors fully discharge between AC peaks. Win/win. Demand capacitors for all your LED needs.

      --
      ASCII stupid question, get a stupid ANSI
  33. LEDs are great by DrXym · · Score: 4, Interesting
    I just built a new house which has something like 32 GU10 spotlights built into the ceilings to provide lighting. An LED bulb uses ~1/25th the power of a traditional halogen so I could be turn on every single light in the house for little more than the cost of a single halogen. The initial outlay will pay for itself in a year or two. And I don't have to be climbing up ladders or risking my neck changing they so often because they last much longer.

    The main issues to look for with LEDs is some of the cheaper ones give out a horrible ghostly white light. The box should say what colour temperature they output, and the best ones output 3200K warm white light similar to traditional incandescents. You wouldn't even know its an LED unless you stared at it. The other issue is only some bulbs work with dimmer switches, but there are models which do that too.

    The case for LEDs in other kinds of fixtures is probably less clear cut. LEDs are fairly directional so they probably require some refractive covering to be useful in hang down bulbs. But in the meantime there are plenty of CFL solutions which again save a lot more than traditional incandescents. I really don't see why anyone would bother with incandescent bulbs unless they are ignorant of how much money they're losing or they have have highly specific needs that other kinds of bulbs do not provide.

    1. Re:LEDs are great by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My apartment complex has electricity included. Why spend more than cheap $.40 bulbs?

    2. Re:LEDs are great by KozmoStevnNaut · · Score: 1

      To contribute to an overall lessening of power usage. You may not pay directly for the amount of electricity you use, but coal still needs to be burned to produce. Show some responsibility.

      --
      Eat the rich.
    3. Re:LEDs are great by xaxa · · Score: 1

      How much did you spend per bulb?

      I bought some for £2 each, to replace some 50W halogens (~£1 each). I broke even by the end of the first month, but the light isn't very good -- it's quite a narrow beam, and not as bright as claimed.

      (We had 2 50W halogens in the same fitting that tended to get forgotten and left on overnight. I put one 1W LED bulb in instead, and I reckon we're saving £5/month on the electricity bill as a result.)

    4. Re:LEDs are great by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I've tried LED GU10, but they provide a lot less light if compared to halogen.
      So you need x3-x4 more of them installed.

      What about using (automotive) Xenon HID lights for residential use? In term of light output they are more efficient than LED. They only make sense for lots of light since you need to install ballast...

    5. Re:LEDs are great by Max+Romantschuk · · Score: 1

      My apartment complex has electricity included. Why spend more than cheap $.40 bulbs?

      Because some people actually care about the environment, not to mention making an effort not to fuck up the planet for future generations.

      --
      .: Max Romantschuk :: http://max.romantschuk.fi/
    6. Re:LEDs are great by DrXym · · Score: 1

      I replaced 50W halogens with 2W LEDs and there is no drop in light output. If anything the LEDs are slightly brighter. I agree there are some really crappy LED bulbs out there but the ones I bought from EcoPal.ie are great.

    7. Re:LEDs are great by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "I really don't see why anyone would bother with incandescent bulbs unless they are ignorant of how much money they're losing or they have have highly specific needs that other kinds of bulbs do not provide."

      What if they don't like change? Even ones they can believe in.

    8. Re:LEDs are great by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      According to this wiki page
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy
      you may try to claim x10 better output for LED, but x25 I doubt that ...

    9. Re:LEDs are great by asc99c · · Score: 1

      If initial outlay isn't too much of an issue, consider Envirolight bulbs. I've tried various cheap LEDs (the type with a cluster of standard looking LED units) and been very unimpressed and returned them for refunds. These bulbs are over £10 each, but I'm very happy with the results. Until these Panasonic ones from the article, I've not seen any that look to have the same construction as these. It's a really smooth wall of light.

      http://www.ledteck.co.uk/led1.php

    10. Re:LEDs are great by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I really don't see why anyone would bother with incandescent bulbs unless they are ignorant of how much money they're losing or they have have highly specific needs that other kinds of bulbs do not provide.

      Or, they could be like my father. Can't stand the fact that the light output from a CFL increases slowly after initial turning it on. Also, there are those who are so penny wise, pound foolish. Those people always buy based on first cost, not total cost of ownership.

    11. Re:LEDs are great by David+Off · · Score: 1

      The main issues to look for with LEDs is some of the cheaper ones give out a horrible ghostly white light.

      An article I read in the Economist.com claimed the horrible light output from Chinese cheap CFLs and LEDs was due to the fact that ambient light is whiter in those countries so they like their indoor lighting that way. They are now starting to adapt their bulbs for European/US markets.

    12. Re:LEDs are great by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I use mostly incandescent. I am not 'ignorant' of the cost. Currently for my usage scenario the math works out in 5-10 years.

      CFL costs ~2 dollars a piece for cheap ones around here. Up to ~40 for the high end ones.

      Do not see LED at all in the stores. Need to specialty buy them. Cost 20+ per bulb.

      At night I have 1 40w bulb running over my TV (uses WAY more power than some stupid bulb). The rest of the lights are off. I learned something when I was a kid, turn the light off when you leave the room. I usually need the light instantly and for a short time so most CFL is out. Perhaps the warm up time is better these days but last time it sucked. Price however is getting close to 'makes no difference to me'. Also most of my lights are on dimmer switches which means the 'cheap' ones are out.

      Could I be saving money? Yes. Would it ROI any time soon? No. I am better off getting a better AC, fridge, dryer, TV, Computer... I can get more bang for the buck.

    13. Re:LEDs are great by jackbird · · Score: 1

      How does that work? Does China orbit a different star? Does air in that part of the world have a different refractive index?

    14. Re:LEDs are great by jackbird · · Score: 1

      Yes, that niche market of people who read, cook, eat meals together, and do things after dark other than watching television are being unreasonably catered to.

    15. Re:LEDs are great by MightyYar · · Score: 1

      That's nice of you, but not very pragmatic. People have to benefit from something or they won't do it.

      Actually, this is why I think we should stop trying to prevent greenhouse warming and start planning for the coping phase. It's pointless - you'll never stop people from digging up all of the hydrocarbons and burning them. Though I will concede that we might be able to slow it down a touch, and that might help, I'd still rather we spent some time planning for the eventual defense or evacuation of our coasts. We'll need to help the ecosystems move, too - or at least leave room for them to move themselves.

      --
      W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
    16. Re:LEDs are great by DrXym · · Score: 1

      I know full well that the 2W bulbs output the same light as the 50W halogens because I tested them side by side. If anything the LEDs were marginally brighter. I realise of course that a halogen bulb may be outputting invisible UV / IR light but as I don't see it I really don't care/

    17. Re:LEDs are great by Carnildo · · Score: 1

      My apartment complex has electricity included. Why spend more than cheap $.40 bulbs?

      To reduce your rent increase next year. You don't think the apartment manager is paying the electric bill out of his own pocket, do you?

      --
      "They redundantly repeated themselves over and over again incessantly without end ad infinitum" -- ibid.
    18. Re:LEDs are great by Insipid+Trunculance · · Score: 1

      I bought some for £2 each

      Where did you get them that cheap?? AFAIK Lidl has some at 4 quid but thats about it.

      --
      Wanted : A Signature.
    19. Re:LEDs are great by xaxa · · Score: 1

      From B&Q about a year ago, a box of four for £8. They had a whole pallet of them. It didn't seem to be a special offer, but I don't see them for sale on the B&Q site.

      I think it might be these, but I don't have the packaging so I can't be sure.

      The fitting in my room is for four bulbs, so I have three LED ones (pointing generally around) and one normal halogen one (pointing to my desk).

  34. Price by yoyhed · · Score: 1

    $40 for 19 years sure is nice, but who wants to make that kind of investment, assuming there's 10+ bulbs in the house to replace? I'd rather pay $4 for a 6-pack and have to replace them in a few months.

    --
    WHO NEEDS SHIFT WHEN YOU HAVE CAPSLOCK/ DAMN1
    1. Re:Price by Arlet · · Score: 1

      $40 for 19 years sure is nice, but who wants to make that kind of investment

      Anyone who can afford it, and think rationally.

    2. Re:Price by elFisico · · Score: 1

      $40 for 19 years sure is nice, but who wants to make that kind of investment, assuming there's 10+ bulbs in the house to replace? I'd rather pay $4 for a 6-pack and have to replace them in a few months.

      Making a one-time investment of $40 and getting a return of $29 each year for 19 years gives you a total win of how much? I'm leaving that calculation as an exercise for the respected reader. :-)

      I'm wondering why no investment bankers have thought about that, given the fantastic return...

  35. Do the numbers by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    They figure better than half of electricity goes to lights. Lets say with modern electronics it's more like a 1/3 in a standard home. How many bulbs amount to 90% of the lighting in your house? What 5 or 6? Replace those bulbs for around $250 to $300 and you cut a 1/3 off your power bill. How much is your bill? Odds are you'll hit payback in a year or two at the most. I have bulbs in my house that run 12 to 15 hours a day since I work at home. Usage will determine payback. If everyone went to these bulbs and high efficentcy appliances easily 50% of of the power could be saved. The could start shutting down coal plants and wouldn't need nuclear plants. Conservation is the easiest way to address need not to mention cheapest. There are solutions but building more power plants is no solution.

  36. Poor overall efficiency by Lonewolf666 · · Score: 1

    A coal-burning (for instance) power plant converts only 30-40% of the energy in the fuel to electric energy. The rest is lost in form of waste heat at the power plant.

    Now your incandescent lights convert this to heat quite efficiently, but you still get only the above 30-40% of the heat that was originally in the coal. It would be far more efficient to throw an extra briquet into your stove at home, to stay with the coal example.

    The above will become irrelevant once all power generation is changed to renewables. But at that point, I guess the price per kWh of electric power will be much higher too. So you will have an economic reason to get efficient devices.

    --
    C - the footgun of programming languages
    1. Re:Poor overall efficiency by roguetrick · · Score: 1

      Stupid to get pedantic at this point, as someone would undoubtedly bring up economies of scale, specifically transport costs of the coal in terms of energy.

      --
      -The world would be a better place if everyone had a hoverboard
    2. Re:Poor overall efficiency by Shakrai · · Score: 1

      The above will become irrelevant once all power generation is changed to renewables.

      You are either really optimistic or you believe that nuclear qualifies as a renewable.

      --
      I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
      We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
    3. Re:Poor overall efficiency by Zarf · · Score: 1

      The above will become irrelevant once all power generation is changed to renewables.

      You are either really optimistic or you believe that nuclear qualifies as a renewable.

      Just a matter of having a long enough scale. On a long enough scale either *everything* is renewable in the heart of a star or nothing is renewable since the all the suns in the cosmos will burn out eventually.

      --
      [signature]
    4. Re:Poor overall efficiency by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      You are either really optimistic or you believe that nuclear qualifies as a renewable.

      If fusion is possible we have plenty of fissile material to get us well past the point of having fusion reactors.

      If commercial spaceflight is possible, we have plenty of fusionable material to get us off-world.

      I'll be a short-sighted dick and neglect to calculate if there's enough fusionable material in the solar system to build the Dyson structure.

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  37. The basic numbers, LED versus CFL by Mike_EE_U_of_I · · Score: 2, Informative

    But compact fluorescents cost $2, save almost as much power/year, and last about 10 years. They are the most cost effective.

    Indeed, CFLs are the most cost effective, as long as you don't actually use any math.

        However, I do like math, so I shall try using some.

        First, let us look at the cost of the bulbs themselves. The Panasonic's cost $40 and are rated for 40,000 hours. A batch of 60 watt equivalent CFLs I have in my hand (Bright Effects brand that I purchased at Lowes) cost $12 or $2 per CFL. The CFLs are rated at 8000 hours. So I will need five CFLs instead of one LED bulb.

        Now let us look at energy use. The CFLs use 13 watts each and the LED with the highest light output draws 6 watts. Over the life of the led bulb, that works out to 6 watts * 40,000 hours = 240,000 watt hours = 240 Kwh. The CFL will use, over the same time span, 13 watts * 40,000 hours = 520,000 watts = 520 Kwh.

        The question now becomes, what do you pay for a kilowatt hour? Where I live in the Orlando area, we are paying about 15 cents/Kwh. The LED bulb would wind up costing $36 for power and the CFL would cost $78.

        This gives us total costs of:

    LED: $40 (the bulb) + $36 (energy) = $76 (total)
    CFL: $10 (5 bulbs) + $78 (energy) = $88 (total)

        This analysis also assumes your time is worthless. If you put any value on your time, the numbers obviously get better for the LED. The quality of the light is also ignored here. LEDs come on instantly, while same CFLs can take a bit of time to reach full output.

    Personally, reducing the number of bulbs I have to replace by a factor of five is quite valuable to me. My house has about 120 bulbs, and the ones that are very hard to reach or that are on all the time (about 20 of them) are already LED based. As the LEDs get cheaper, I'll replace the remainder.

        Obviously, for people with cheap electricity, CFLs will still come out ahead (as long as little or no value is placed on the time for changing bulbs).

    1. Re:The basic numbers, LED versus CFL by yffe · · Score: 1

      You haven't taken into account that when the first CFL dies, the LED is probably cheaper than it is today. So you could get a higer ROI if buying one or two CFLs before buying a LED.

  38. What's It Made Of? by gsslay · · Score: 1

    Half of what concerns people now (or should concern them) is what goes into making the light bulb. It's all very well it lasting 19 years, but if it's full of toxic materials that need special treatment on disposal, then no thanks.

    I am talking specifically about mercury.

    1. Re:What's It Made Of? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      There is no mercury in LEDs, but there are some electronic parts, don't eat those.

    2. Re:What's It Made Of? by gabebear · · Score: 1
      LED lighting is pretty amazingly great for the environment.

      The cost of LED bulbs is still plummeting, so in a couple years they will be a no-brainer.

    3. Re:What's It Made Of? by elFisico · · Score: 1

      White LEDs do not contain highly toxic substances. Infrared ones do contain arsenic, but are well-capsuled and robust, i.e. break-resistant. CFLs do contain mercury and break rather easily.

  39. This is NOT informative, just plain wrong by Kupfernigk · · Score: 4, Informative
    Nobody would ever seriously run a production LED system like this. Typical forward voltage of white LEDs is around 3V. Supplying rectified AC would waste 97% of the energy on US 110V, thus making it less efficient that a halogen bulb and producing lots of heat in the resistor.

    The things contain a switch mode power supply, like just about every small mains powered device nowadays. The SMPS converts input to a current output for LEDs, which is what they need for best efficiency. It does this on both halves of the AC cycle. This added complexity contributes to the cost, but not as much as you might think.

    Early LED bulbs that ran off cheap transformers used for SELV lighting used series resistors, but the current is very variable and they are, basically, crap. They got away with it because big arrays of cheap LEDs were used. A long term solution really needs not more than two or three high power LEDs in an envelope, because this helps to drive down cost. But this requires an advanced power supply.

    --
    From scarped cliff or quarried stone she cries "A thousand types are gone, I care for nothing, no not one."
    1. Re:This is NOT informative, just plain wrong by smellsofbikes · · Score: 5, Informative
      For what it's worth, my job is designing test hardware for LED drivers. As such I spend a lot of time taking apart other people's LED bulbs and seeing what they're doing. A scary number of current LED bulbs consist of a single diode, a big capacitor, and a string of LED's in series with their series forward voltage drop being roughly equal to 150 volts, and then a single current-limiting resistor at the end of the strand. That is the *worst* way I can think of to do the job. (Not to mention the cap they're using to smooth out the ripple is a very cheap electrolytic, with a lifetime of probably about 2000 hours if you're lucky, so that will be what fails.) The nicer low-end bulbs use a full wave bridge rectifier and sometimes even a linear regulator.

      Of course, any good bulb worth buying uses an actual LED driver that acts as a constant current source. But even they still often use cheap electrolytics, meaning your LEDs will still have 95,000 hours of life in them when the bulb dies because the crappy caps they're using on the input and output sides of the switcher have failed.

      If you're looking at a light and want to know generally what they're doing, see if you can count roughly how many LED's are in the fixture. If there are over 30, chances are it's a series string being run on rectified AC. If there are only a dozen or less, it's got a real driver and should at least give you reasonable efficiency, although no guarantees on lifetime. In an ideal world everyone would design LED drivers and use all ceramic or Nichicon caps, which have lifetimes measured in decades rather than months, but that'd cost a few pennies more and people will always buy the cheapest thing they can buy, particularly when you're working in a price range that's already an order of magnitude more expensive than the (incandescent) competition.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    2. Re:This is NOT informative, just plain wrong by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      In an ideal world everyone would design LED drivers and use all ceramic or Nichicon caps, which have lifetimes measured in decades rather than months, but that'd cost a few pennies more and people will always buy the cheapest thing they can buy, particularly when you're working in a price range that's already an order of magnitude more expensive than the (incandescent) competition.

      I'm actually much more wary of spending that kind of money on a lightbulb and would gladly pay 10+-% more if I understood the difference. I do this explicitly for motherboards with better caps.

      Any way you can tell us on how to find an LED light creator (what's the right word, bulb is antiquated?) with good caps?

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    3. Re:This is NOT informative, just plain wrong by smellsofbikes · · Score: 2, Informative

      We still call them bulbs at work, but honestly I don't have a good way to distinguish between them. You'd have to pull it so far apart that it'd be useless. (The last bulb I repaired, I chucked up in my lathe and used a jeweler's saw to slice the translucent diffuser off, then pried the board with all the LED's mounted out of the body, then desoldered the leads that drove the LED's, before I could get to the failed electrolytic that caused the bulb to die.) I'm also reluctant to recommend specific manufacturers because, well, much as I hate to say this, I don't think there are any bulbs on the market right now that are really super. In a year, there will be. (Or I'll be out of a job.) Right now, ugh; it's like trying to choose an ISP in another country in 1999. My company is building evaluation boards for LED drivers that run straight off AC, and have only ceramic caps on the board, so the eval boards should last for decades, but there's no guarantee people who are making the actual consumer products based on our design are going to use our reference design, unfortunately.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    4. Re:This is NOT informative, just plain wrong by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the info - it sounds like you've got a great job. I'll just hope then that with the potential for ultra-long-life bulbs with LED's, some manufacturers will latch onto that and call out when the use good parts.

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  40. Re:Light bulb as a service by TheTurtlesMoves · · Score: 1

    Old fashion fluorescent lights have far more mercury in them. I have had at least one of them in every house i have ever lived. No one gives a rats dirty end if you break them. So why all the fuss over CFL? On and a lot of street lights have even more mercury in them.

    --
    The Grey Goo disaster happened 3 billion years ago. This rock is covered in self replicating machines!
  41. Some numbers. by queazocotal · · Score: 1

    Light output - total light output, not how bright a spot it can make on a wall - is measured in lumens.

    The bulb above - look at the box shot - says 450lm for 6.9W.

    That's 65lm/W - this is very close to the 60lm/W that most of my CFLs claim.

    It's significantly below the 100lm/W that you get from linear flourescants.

    The best LEDs at the moment get around 114lm/W - http://www.cree.com/products/xlamp_xpe.asp - and ones sampling now from the same maker get 140. It's not possible to get more than maybe 300 - as then you're getting close to the fundamental amount of power needed to make a watt of wite light.

    I did a basic design for a 100lm/W lamp - from AC to replace 100W of lightbulbs.
    It needed 15 1W LEDs, a high efficiency supply, and would cost perhaps $60 in bulk.

    If you drive the LEDs harder, you can use half the number, and get about 2/3 the efficiency, and maybe $40 cost.

    This was for relatively small numbers.

    1. Re:Some numbers. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Fluorescent tubes (those 120cm ones) get 100lm/W with an electronic ballast (also start quickly with less start-up wear, the lamps don't flicker at 100 Hz, and many support dimmer interfaces such as DALI).

      Those tubes put out over 5000 lumens, last for 20 000 hours, and are dirt cheap (even high color quality tubes only cost 10 euros a piece, google for osram color proof for example). The ballasts are more expensive (30 eur a piece), but they last a 100 000 hours.

      Furthermore, they are available with color temperatures between 5000-7000 Kelvins, which is the same as sunlight or daylight (as long as the color rendering quality is high enough).

      Without electrodes (google for induction lamps) the tubes last forever (their luminous flux decreases slowly though).

  42. Florescent Lamps are Shite by FreeUser · · Score: 1

    In a lamp test by a Finnish magazine the 3 EUR fluorescent lamp died at 3000 hours. The more expensive ones are still going on but starting to show longer warming times, stains/cracks and other problems. In addition to these problems fluorescents are hazardous waste and should be recycled. At 10x longer lifespan the LED light sounds like a good deal to me.

    Not only that, compact florescent lamp aren't worth the £2/3 price tag (hell, they aren't worth 1/10th of that). Ever try reading by a compact florescent bulb? The experience will pull your eyes out of their sockets and leave you blind by the time your thirty. Here in the UK incandescent bulbs are getting difficult to find. For many months I found myself trying to read by the highest-wattage crapola "green" bulbs you're allowed to buy, and damaging my eyesight in the process. Luckily you can still get halogen bulbs, but now they're talking about banning those too because they don't save enough energy. Better to be blind than burn a few extra kilowatt hours. What's even stupider, people are burning four times as many "green" bulbs in a vain effort to get their rooms as brightly lit as they once were with incandescent bulbs (for those not in the UK, try looking at pictures of interior designs for UK and European housing. See all those lights in the ceilings? Dozens and dozens, where once a track with 4 120 watt Incandescent bulbs sufficed. Great for the light-bulb industry, lousy for the environment and your eyesight, because even with all those goddamn lights rooms still feel like a dark cave and you still can't read a book without tearing your eyes out, and yes, I still have 20/20 vision, though I miss the 20/15 I had before going green).

    LEDs look very promising: power saving, long lasting, and bright. Well worth $40 if they work as advertised. And no toxic chemicals in your house to boot, unlike these still-dim-despite-propoganda-to-the-contrary, toxic so-called green bulbs industry and government are trying to brainwash and coerce us into buying. Hopefully the US will go straight from incancescent to LED ... not mandating mecury-filled compact-florescent bulbs and banning incandescents to save a little energy is one of the few things the US really is getting right (and the EU dead wrong).

    As you've probably guessed this particular subject really hacks me off -- mandating an extremely modest improvement in industrial effeciency would save orders of magnitude more energy than these asinine not-fit-for-purpose bulbs, but it's easier for the politicians to stick the average citizen with a load of busy work and darker rooms, than it is to stand up to industry and require a little more effeciency from their energy-intensive manufacturing processes.

    I miss my incandescent bulbs, my bright living room, and the ability to read a book for hours on end without getting a headache ... something I can now do only on sunny days thanks to the fools touting this energy-saving bulb crap.

    Oh, and get off my lawn.

    --
    The Future of Human Evolution: Autonomy
    1. Re:Florescent Lamps are Shite by Zalminen · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Ever try reading by a compact florescent bulb?

      All the time.

      The experience will pull your eyes out of their sockets and leave you blind by the time your thirty.

      Suuure.

      I miss my incandescent bulbs, my bright living room, and the ability to read a book for hours on end without getting a headache ...

      Never got a headache from fluorescents either.

      Yes, there's a visible difference with incandescents and compact fluorescents. Does it really matter in some way? Nope.

    2. Re:Florescent Lamps are Shite by Shakrai · · Score: 1

      Yes, there's a visible difference with incandescents and compact fluorescents. Does it really matter to Zalminem some way? Nope. If I'm ok with it then everybody else must be too.

      Fixed that for you.

      --
      I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
      We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
  43. After 19 years by piotru · · Score: 1, Flamebait

    The CO2 stampede will fade out, the environmentalist crooks will be getting rich with tributes paid to save the Moon, and just when my current stock of incadescent bulbs will be about to finish, I will again be able to buy fine classical bulbs in a shop. This is my 70 year old mother's opinion.

  44. Day 84 - . by emptybody · · Score: 1

    TestDiary
    Day 82 - these things are great almost 3 months and no signs of slowing!
    Day 83 - Uh oh. its getting darker these things better not be used constantly
    Day 84 - they are all burned out now. Marketing says they last 19 years!
    Day 85 - slashdotted :)

    --
    comment directly in my journal
  45. Location is a big issue with CFLs by Shivetya · · Score: 1

    Any significant source of vibration seems to cause them to die prematurely. This is based on personal experience.

    As in, garage door openers. Though I think the use cycle there may not exploit them much. I could not keep the CFLs mounted near the openers either, however the one in the utility room accessible through the garage has lived a long time. Near doors where the kids just love to slam them shut. Not a fan of them in ceiling fans, though the enclosed "candle style" CFLs for some reason outlasted the exposed ones.

    My concern with LED and even CFLs is the heat they build up in their bases. Can they be used in enclosed fixtures? I was surprised how warm some globe lights became after going from 60w incandescent to 10w/15w CFLs

    --
    * Winners compare their achievements to their goals, losers compare theirs to that of others.
    1. Re:Location is a big issue with CFLs by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      As in, garage door openers. Though I think the use cycle there may not exploit them much.

      I've got two in my garage door opener, the sucker shakes when operating, and they've lasted over a year now, through a north dakotan winter in an unheated garage*.

      *Might be 10 degrees warmer than outside, and at least it's protected from the wind, but we're still looking at outside temps averaging around -30 for extended periods from the unusually harsh winter we had last year.

      My concern with LED and even CFLs is the heat they build up in their bases. Can they be used in enclosed fixtures? I was surprised how warm some globe lights became after going from 60w incandescent to 10w/15w CFLs

      Generally they should be fine in any enclosure rated for the light output of bulb they're replacing - IE a 15W in a 60W enclosure. You just go from 'burning' to 'hot'.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
  46. Re:Light bulb as a service by fredrik70 · · Score: 1

    that claim has been debunked by snoopes

    --
    if (!signature) { throw std::runtime_error("No sig!"); }
  47. Daft summary: it's not a 60-watt bulb by Ed+Avis · · Score: 1

    I could understand if the Weekly World News mistakenly called it a '60-watt' bulb meaning that it's about as bright as an ordinary incandescent lightbulb, but this is meant to be news for nerds! According to the article, it uses only about an eighth of the power of an incandescent bulb, in other words about 7.5 watts.

    --
    -- Ed Avis ed@membled.com
    1. Re:Daft summary: it's not a 60-watt bulb by gabebear · · Score: 1

      The bulb in the picture says 6.9W

  48. Don't forget about the warranty by Dahlgil · · Score: 1

    The last set of fluorescent bulbs I purchased came with a 7 year replacement warranty. Of course, I would need to send a burned-out bulb back and pay postage, so on CFL's the warranty is nice, but its real value is a bit dubious once you count the cost and inconvenience. However, on a $40 bulb the economics improve since return postage would be a much smaller fractional cost of the individual light bulb. It is also much more likely that I would actually use the warranty on a $40 bulb than a $3 or $4 one. If Panasonic were to warranty this bulb for, say 19 years, I think I'd be game to try it.

  49. LEDs and dimmers by Aero · · Score: 1

    I love the idea of LED bulbs (much more so than CFLs, since those die quickly in our 25-year-old house), but they've currently got the same problem that CFLs do: they won't work with a dimmer. Yes, I know that some CFLs are dimmer-compatible now, but they're hard to find.

    I'm nothing resembling an electrician or electrical engineer, but I have a conceptual idea of how you would make it work. Add a microcontroller that reads the incoming voltage. As the voltage steps down, turn off individual LEDs in the array in a fixed sequence. Half voltage == half of the LEDs are off, for instance.

    Is the science sound on this? And would it add more than, say, $2/bulb?

    --
    We can believe in you for 3 minutes, but beyond that, even the King of All Cosmos can't be expected to wait.
    1. Re:LEDs and dimmers by Engeekneer · · Score: 2, Informative

      Well, I dont know how it's done, but from the press release..

      The 7.6 W standard type and the 5.5 W compact type LED bulbs are dimmable from 10 percent to 100 percent.

    2. Re:LEDs and dimmers by ledow · · Score: 1

      LED's are pretty naturally dimmable anyway, I think. It may depend on their exact manufacture, especially an array of them, but most LED's can be dimmed inside a certain range. But yes, even your suggestion is perfectly plausible and takes next-to-nothing to implement. It's just a matter of convincing people that dimmable is better.

    3. Re:LEDs and dimmers by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      You'd put something in your rectifier/voltage regulator. If you wanted really good dimming you'd put in a little voltage controlled pulse width modulator and then you could dim them smoothly from zero to 100. Depending on how you built the voltage regulator, you could get some dimming from a base level up to 100% (seems to be what they've done).

  50. Is white LED light healthier than CFL light? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I recall reading somewhere about the health impact of UV radiation in indoor lighting. Fluorescents (CFLs included, right ?) seem to have more UV radiation than incandescent lamps. I am interested in how white LED performs in this parameter. I found the claim that white LEDs are better. Any comments or further info, slashdotters ?

  51. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

    How many does one need to break?

    I'm about to leave a flat you see, and I really hate the landlord. Plus the new place will not fit my grow room.

  52. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Glad to see snoope dogg went from rapping to debunking myths.

  53. Still doesn't beat a 1890 lightbulb! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    There's the Centennial Light, which only consumes 4 watts, and has been continuously burning for over 100 years. http://www.centennialbulb.org/index.htm

    Anyway, the popularity of CF is just because it's a direct replacement of the power-hungry incandescent bulbs, which are almost always used in the most impractical way possible for the sake of "beauty". Not only they're usually enclosed or covered to lessen the intensity, there's no reflective surface anywhere, and are also often used against walls instead of in the center of the room. It's the exact complete opposite of how circular fluorescent lights are used.

    Another example of beauty over practicality is the stupid idea to use incandescent bulb(s) in a ceiling fan (if used for cooling). Anyway the beautiful, non-aerodynamic blades are useless, except when used as a canoe paddle.

  54. Re:Light bulb as a service by Shakrai · · Score: 4, Insightful

    You forgot to finish your thought with "if you compeletely and unjustifiably overreact.

    That's pretty much what businesses and schools do in our litigious age. A local school in my area was recently closed for two days over an old barometer that got dropped in one of the science classrooms. They brought in a professional cleanup crew and spent $80,000 to have the mercury spill cleaned up.

    Now I can understand closing off the classroom where the spill happened but closing the whole school seems rather excessive to me. $80,000 for cleanup seems really excessive. But that's what they have to do in this day and age. Otherwise some parent would freak out ("OMG, you mean my kid was within a quarter mile of spilled mercury?! I read someone that stuff is as dangerous as Dihydrogen Monoxide!") and they'd be writing that $80,000 check to a law firm instead of a cleanup crew.

    --
    I want peace on earth and goodwill toward man.
    We are the United States Government! We don't do that sort of thing.
  55. Comment removed by account_deleted · · Score: 1

    Comment removed based on user account deletion

  56. Whole desk lamp for $10 by mdsolar · · Score: 1

    I recently bought a couple of LED desk lamps at Target for $10 each. They seem like they are about 30 W equivalent. So that would be half the price for the whole fixture, a sort of goose neck clip on thing. The transformer is at the plug. Seems like one must be paying for the form factor in the Phillips product. LEDs are durable goods so it might make sense to consider them in a different light. Change fixtures rather than bulbs?

  57. I still need incandesant lamps by scharkalvin · · Score: 1

    I've switched to CFL's from incandescent bulbs in many of the light fixtures in my house. However the fixture in my bedroom is controlled by an X10 switch/dimmer module so we can adjust the lighting from the bed. I have not yet found any CFL bulb that will work with this dimmer. Several 'dimmable' CFL's I've tried would work with a dimmer switch in other rooms of the house, but NOT with the X10 modules. So for now my bedroom will still use incandescent lamps. Because they are gas discharge lamps, CFL's don't dim evenly, or go down below about 30% output. You must use matched bulbs if you want to dim a fixture using more than one bulb. LED lamps should work better with dimmers. I'd be willing to pay $30-40 a bulb for LED lamps, IF they work with the dimmer as well as incandescent lamps and will last as long as promised. BTW about half of the CFL's I've installed are still working, and the other half burned out as quick as the average incandescent. About the range of quality I'd expect from crap made in China!

    1. Re:I still need incandesant lamps by elFisico · · Score: 1

      There are dimmable LED-bulbs available, have a look at http://www.earthled.com/

  58. Migraines by Michael+Meissner · · Score: 1

    Though in terms of migraines, in the past I have been sensitive to the 50/60Hz flickering that fluorescents gave off (at least a few years ago), and I found halogen or incandescents to be better. I suspect the modern CFL's have better ballasts than previous models, but I still dread the 2012 cutoff when incandescents are supposed to be removed.

    1. Re:Migraines by jrumney · · Score: 1

      CFLs have electronic ballasts that run at many kilohertz, rather than the magnetic ballasts of old strip fluorescent lighting that run at mains frequency.

  59. Re:Light bulb as a service by tburkhol · · Score: 2

    Of course, "The RfC [300ng/m3] is an estimate (with uncertainty spanning perhaps an order of magnitude) of a continuous inhalation exposure to the human population (including sensitive subgroups) that is likely to be without appreciable risk of deleterious noncancer effects during a lifetime." From the MAAG. So, you could either pay $3000 to clean up the 4 mg of Hg, or you could open a window and try not to break a bulb every week.

  60. 19 years is shit! by muzicman · · Score: 1

    Edison's original Light bulb is still working, and that is 100 years old. I guess that they don't make them like they use to...

    --
    -1 disagree is not a modifier for a reason. -1 troll, flamebait, redundant, overrated are NOT acceptable substitutes.
    1. Re:19 years is shit! by meldex · · Score: 1

      http://www.roadsideamerica.com/set/lightbulbs.html

      That would be great if all I needed was a 4 watt bulb and I never turned it off.

      (BTW not "Edison's original Light bulb")

  61. Re:Long life bulbs cost versus cost of replacement by tuxicle · · Score: 2, Insightful

    He'd have to get up there to clean the fixtures every so often.

  62. Lumens? by Taibhsear · · Score: 1

    This seems great and all but how bright is it? All the LED lamps I've seen are too dim to be used to replace a standard incandescent. Give me an LED lamp with an output of as many lumens as at least an 80W incandescent and we'll talk. Otherwise it's no good for anything but a reading lamp.

  63. WiFi interference by zoward · · Score: 1

    Also, CFL's are notorious for interfering with WiFi.

    --
    "Can't you see that everyone is buying station wagons?"
    1. Re:WiFi interference by kimvette · · Score: 1

      I've never experienced nor heard of that happening.

      --
      The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    2. Re:WiFi interference by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      CFLs are notorious for interfering with *any* wireless communication. When I turn-on my kitchen CFLs my digital television starts to stutter. The FM radio seems okay but the AM radio devolves into a loud buzzing. When I turn-off the CFLs, the problem goes away.

      CFLs are electronic devices, but because manufacturers are trying to make them cheaply in order to compete with the simplistic 25 cent incandescents, they cut corners. The power factor is poor and the noise level is high. Also the components are often below spec, and not rated for the 120 volt 15 amp lines they are attached to. I wouldn't be surprised if EU countries start getting lots of reports of house fires or smoke inhalation victims from these cheaply-made, non-regulated CFLs.

      They are the lightbulb equivalent of eMachine PCs, but much much lower quality.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
    3. Re:WiFi interference by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      And a quick google search shows nothing significant.

    4. Re:WiFi interference by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You are correct. You should not use CFL's. Other people should, but YOU should not. You are a victim of CFL's. Please stay away from them because they will kill you.

    5. Re:WiFi interference by Fred_A · · Score: 1

      Also, CFL's are notorious for interfering with WiFi.

      I hear they also kick puppies and strangle kittens.

      --

      May contain traces of nut.
      Made from the freshest electrons.
  64. Re:Light bulb as a service by smaddox · · Score: 2

    The question is not whether the amount exceeds the standards set by the government (they are almost guaranteed to), but whether the amount actually absorbed into the body through the lungs is even near the amount absorbed by eating a piece of tuna. I don't have supporting evidence, but I would be willing to bet the tuna would lead to much more absorption. My main reason for guessing this is that the mercury in tuna is in organic compounds which are more likely to be absorbed than elementary mercury. It also turns out that organic mercury is what is actually dangerous (read: carcinogenic) about mercury.

  65. CFL startup time and color temp... by patniemeyer · · Score: 1

    I recently started switching over to CFLs and was impressed at the color temperature of the newer models. The 2700k models really do look exactly like an incandescent (if that's what you want). What I wasn't expecting was the terribly slow warm up... Maybe I have a few bad bulbs, but it takes a full minute for the bulb to warm up, during which time I'd say it ramps up from the equivalent of about a 20W to its full 60W... The color also seems to stabilize as it warms up.

    I wish all CFLs were required to list their color temperature, CRI, and warm up time on the box, so that consumers could know what they are buying.

    1. Re:CFL startup time and color temp... by Chirs · · Score: 1

      The warm up time varies dramatically depending on the brand and specific model. I have some that take minutes to warm up, and others that are a couple seconds or so.

    2. Re:CFL startup time and color temp... by elFisico · · Score: 1

      CFLs come in two flavors, the slow starters are more efficient and last longer, but should only be used in places where they are on most of the time. The more commen CFLs are quick-starter that create full intensity within seconds but draw 10-20% more power and have a somewhat reduced lifetime. Unfortunately this isn't always stated clearly on the packaging...

  66. The math doesn't work out by mister_hoberman_to_y · · Score: 2, Interesting

    60 watts * 5.5 hours/day * 365 days/year = 120,450 total watts = 120 Kw. Around here electricity is around $0.10 / Kw, so your total power cost for a 60 watt bulb under these usage parameters is around $12/year. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think I'm going to save $23 on something that costs $12 to operate. Not that I'm against saving the electricity. I just don't like it when the numbers don't add up.

    1. Re:The math doesn't work out by Arlet · · Score: 1

      The math does work out for people who pay more for their electricity. I pay around $0.30 / kWh, so total cost would be $36 per year.

    2. Re:The math doesn't work out by elFisico · · Score: 1

      In my country we pay about $0.20/kW, so for me the numbers add up just fine...

    3. Re:The math doesn't work out by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

      They pay more for electricity in Japan, where these bulbs are actually available.

  67. More useless trash by kenp2002 · · Score: 2, Informative

    I switched the whole house to CFL. Every light. These bulbs are supposed to last 3-5 years.

    I have replaced EVERY CFL BULB IN THE HOUSE within a year. EVERY ONE. GE Brand. No electrical voodoo in the house (I have a line conditioner even at the main). EVERY ONE. I shipped every damn one of them back to GE and Philips for a refund and explaination on why they failed. ZERO response.

    Yeah my electric bill went down. $4 a month after replacing EVERY BULB in my house. That is 38 bulbs. You only save oodles of money provided you run them 5 hours a day constantly to cover the cost of the bulb. If have those 5 minute hall and closet lights along with perhaps 2-8 bulbs on for 5 hours (reading lamp, kitchen lights) you lose money. I barely saved money due to the living room lights being on all day. The livingroom, kitchen, and my office are the only high use lights and effectively had to subsidize all the other lights in the home. The $4 a month doesn't cover the $90+ spend on the bulbs...

    Now every bulb was replaced back then as the old incandescent ones died off. So they were replaced over a 6 month period when we moved in (The old bulbs were at the oldest 4 years old.) So it can't be blamed on a bad batch of bulbs or a specific store (Target, Home Depot, Menards, and Walmart were sources for the bulbs)

    So the CFLs being cheaper is pure bull shit as far as a home is concerned. That useless philips halogen crap in the garage that was supposed to be a 5 year bulb worked out to 8 months and didn't survive the winter.

    Total scam in my opinion on CFLs. Until they can get an LED to match a 100 watt bulb (because I like to be able to see in my house rather then some crap ass 60-watt equivalent...) get it as cheap as a normal bulb, I keep my nice 100 watt incadescents thank you. When they burn out I don't have to fork over $3 to replace them.

    I won't even get into the discussion about the quality of light from CFLs and LEDs vs. Incandescent bulbs... more useless ineffective crap to protect your new found god...

    Telling us it saves $25 bucks a month if bullshit. I'll buy 1. It goes in my garage. If it can survive 3 years I MIGHT consider buying a second one for the bathroom and if that survies another 3 years... then we'll talk. So far this low-energy lighting scam is just that.. a scam as far as my experience has gone.

    My criteria from now on: Full Spectrum, 100 Watts, NO STROBING, NO FLICKERING.

    CFLs are a joke and LEDs have a long way to go. Too bad it looks like government has to subsidize and legistate to prop up yet another failure... How long till they ban those nice incandescent lights... oh wait...

    --
    -=[ Who Is John Galt? ]=-
    1. Re:More useless trash by psm321 · · Score: 1

      Unfortunately with manufacturing stopping you'll soon have to pay $3 to replace them. :( Which is why I've been stocking up on the real light bulbs

    2. Re:More useless trash by kenp2002 · · Score: 1

      fuck that I'll go back to candles and lanterns first. I make bacon fat lanterns all the time out of masion jars and recycled bed sheets turned wicks.

      --
      -=[ Who Is John Galt? ]=-
    3. Re:More useless trash by ChaosDiscord · · Score: 3, Insightful

      You had 38 CFL bulbs that all died in less than a year. Meanwhile other people (myself included) are seeing multiple years of life out of ours. As you note, it's can't possibly be something unusual in your case; you have electricl voodoo, and have a line conditioner. That's interesting.

      For no particular reason, I'm reminded of the guy I know who complains that every single romantic relationship he's in ends messily. He's wisely concluded that it's impossible for any man to have a healthy, long-term relationship with with women. I'm sure there is some valuable lesson there.

    4. Re:More useless trash by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      There's one of these guys in each /. thread about CFLs. I don't know what the point of them is now, but back when CFLs were a novelty they presumably were able to dissuade some people from upgrading.

      At this point, when nearly everyone will know lots of people who use CFLs and don't have this problem, it seems useless to troll like this.

      But since we're exchanging anecdotes, nine years ago I lived with some friends, we did a whiteboard calculation and worked out that it made sense to immediately replace all the incandescents, so we did that. I'm still using my share of the CFLs we bought in the flat where I live now, not a single one has failed.

      Several of those CFLs have now been running for an aggregate over 15 thousand hours.

      The weirdest thing about the "CFLs don't work" trolls is that CFLs are just a more convenient version of a long lifespan technology that had already been widely in use long prior to CFLs. Its as if someone was trying to convince you in 1980 that no-one would ever be able to make a personal HiFi smaller than the Walkman.

    5. Re:More useless trash by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      We've been using CFL's for about 5 years here, and I've never seen one last longer than 18 months. I suspect it's the humidity and heat - I live in a tropical city, where it frequently gets to 32C and 95% humidity over summer. So, while all CFLs may be created equal, the environment in which they're placed may have a significant influence.

    6. Re:More useless trash by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You needed to replace 38 incandescents in 6 months? I know they don't typically have a long lifespan, but some do last years and with that quantity of incandescents, I'd expect at least a few of them to last significantly longer than 6 months. Either you're lying, or there is something wrong with your power, maybe you need to get that line conditioner checked out.

  68. 19 years you say? I'll buy a dozen. by Zarf · · Score: 1

    I've got a few recessed lighting spots in my house that are up crazy high and are a major pain to change a bulb in. I'll buy the darn things for those spaces if for no other reason.

    --
    [signature]
  69. LED's are better than CFL's in so many ways. by MeSat · · Score: 1

    I have three reasons for not liking CFL's. 1. They don't last in areas that the lights are not on that long. If you use them where you turn the lights on for 5 or 10 minutes, they die very quickly. 2. They don't like being cold. The time it takes to turn on in a cool house (set back thermometer) can seem to be forever. 3. Dimmers. I have yet to see one that works on a dimmer. I have purchased some LED lights (spot) for less than US$5 each on-line. They work as great desk lamps but the beam width is to narrow. They didn't work on dimmers (main reason to purchase them) but that is due to the current regulator within the bulb. I see that there is a new current regulator that works with standard dimmers. I hope to change all my gu10 and pars with LEDS when they are dimmer compatible. I also forgot, CFL's don't come in formats for all the types of bulbs that are out there. LED's will. There is also the option of color choices. I have seen red, blue, green and multicolored ones on-line.

  70. Energy savings? by EmagGeek · · Score: 1

    How does a 60W LED bulb save energy over a 60W incandescent bulb? I mean, 60 watts is 60 watts no matter how you're dissipating it. /tic

    1. Re:Energy savings? by Chirs · · Score: 1

      It's a 60W *equivalent* bulb....same as the way CFLs are marketed. If you were to actually follow the link you'd see that the bulb box says 6.9W.

    2. Re:Energy savings? by EmagGeek · · Score: 1

      Isn't it obvious to you that I am making a point?

      Okay, so it's a 6.9W bulb, and not a 60W bulb. It supposedly has a luminous equivalence to that of a 60W incandescent bulb. They are completely different statements.

      Watts are not a measure of luminosity and should not be used to describe the brightness of a lightbulb.

      BTW: Can you prove I did not RTFA? If not, then I suggest you not make such accusations.

  71. Re:Light bulb as a service by MightyYar · · Score: 2

    Exactly. I've broken the bulb, swept up the pieces, and opened a damn window. Keep the kids out of the room for a few hours. Mercury isn't plutonium. It evaporates and dissipates.

    Besides, I live in a major city (NYC). I'm pretty sure the regular air is toxic.

    --
    W..w..W - Willy Waterloo washes Warren Wiggins who is washing Waldo Woo.
  72. Re:Light bulb as a service by BlueBoxSW.com · · Score: 1

    The best way to pick up mercury is with scotch tape.

    Seriously. Sticks right to it.

  73. electric boilers... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

    Indeed* they do! The only downside is that they tend to be on the small side.

    They even make heat pumps that interface with boiler systems to provide hot water for heating.

    Electric resistance heat is definitely the most expensive, but I guess in apartments it can make sense.

    It all depends on your area, but especially if you already have AC, replacing/supplimenting it with a heat pump version might be cheaper than leaving your house cold and 'making up the difference' using spot heating.

    But then, I use an electric thermostat, keep the house at 50 when I'm not home, and wear a sweater(house set to 65, not spot heating).

    One thing you can do is figure out how much power you're using with spot heating, it's cost, compared to how efficient/costly your central heating is. Heat pumps in warmer areas(IE not -30) are often efficient enough that it'd be cheaper to just heat the house all the way.

    As always, consider adding more insulation - in the USA at least(not assuming you're here), there's generous credits for upgrading your home right now. I think that's true in Europe and elsewhere, just the programs are different.

    *Not an endorsement, high hit on google.

    --
    I don't read AC A human right
  74. Re:Light bulb as a service by ceoyoyo · · Score: 1

    The mercury in a barometer isn't even THAT dangerous. You don't want to eat it, or lick your hands after you play with it, but it's not serious danger like some mercury compounds, or even mercury vapour.

  75. For sale by jbeaupre · · Score: 1

    Seems they've been refining the idea: http://www.solareagle.com/sunmate_flash.html

    --
    The world is made by those who show up for the job.
  76. Early light bulbs by noz · · Score: 1

    Apparently there are still early light bulbs in museums that still work.

    They fail not too quickly, but quickly enough to create a false economy.

  77. Re:Long life bulbs cost versus cost of replacement by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I was talking to the facilities manager at the local University... about cost to replace bulbs in some of his buildings.. In some cases it is literally in the many tens of thousands of dollars range. They have to bring scaffolding in with a small crew to erect and move around. (Doors too small for a lift.)

    He would be more than happy to pay $42/bulb IFF it meant he didn't have to go back in for two decades.

    So, did you tell the guy to spend his money on widening the doors so they can bring a lift in next time?

  78. I want to buy one, but I need BULBS by wonkavader · · Score: 1

    Costco started selling LED "bulbs". I immediately bought a pack.

    They're not ready for prime time, but I wanted to play with them and show Costco that LED "bulbs" would sell.

    But like every other consumer LED bulb I've seen sold (Home Depot has a few, and there's the one in TFA) they are directional -- essentially spots, not bulbs. One at home depot has a distributing lens, but it breaks the light from a beam into a plane, rather than diffusing it around. I could use a bulb with less than 360 x 360 degrees of diffuse light, but I need better than a bizarre ring/plane of light, and a spot is no good to me as room lighting.

    HD and Costco both sell products which really don't give off enough light, either.

    Double the watts, double the elements inside (make them as bright as real incandescents), don't point all the elements in all the same direction, maybe put a diffusing layer on top, and charge more for the bulb. The economics work. We'll buy them. We don't like the mercury in CFLs, we don't like the startup time or the failure rate. The LEDs are just hugely better. Come out with a decent product and watch it take off.

    The one from Panasonic, pictured in the article has a diffuser, but it's still in a spot configuration. New homes can/are be designed to use these better, but existing/older homes are all about BULBS, and that's the huge market to get replaced. A house can save hundreds of dollars (or more) a year by just replacing all the darn bulbs.

    Make a friggin' BULB.

    1. Re:I want to buy one, but I need BULBS by elFisico · · Score: 1

      It will take a while for the shops to get those into stock, but they already exist, I own two of them. Just 5W but lights like a 40W bulb. Have a look at http://www.earthled.com/

    2. Re:I want to buy one, but I need BULBS by wonkavader · · Score: 1

      Thanks for posting a VERY useful reply.

      And they look very nice. Good designs -- bulb-style useful.

      But they are PRICEY. I know they pay for themselves quickly compared to incandescents, but they're competing today against CFLs.

      At half the price (I know, I'm asking a lot) I'd buy them now.

      But I assume most of the cost is R&D and when they get sold in the tens/hundreds of thousands at Home Depot, they will be much cheaper. I hope they make that jump soon!

    3. Re:I want to buy one, but I need BULBS by wonkavader · · Score: 1

      In particular, the DesignoLux bulb looks like it should go straight to the stores right now. That thing is IDEAL. Again, I'd like 2 for $29, instead of one. The crappy ones being sold at Costco today are 2 for $13 I think. 2 for 29 to get something really good would be a fine thing.

  79. As an owner of a house of LED lights.. by cyberjock1980 · · Score: 1

    As an owner of about 25 LED lights, I find they are acceptable for the house. They are directional, so you do have to shop for light fixtures that will allow you to adequately direct the light as you want it. Some rooms you may want to buy a fixture with 4 bulbs instead of 3. There are 2 colors(generally). Cool white and warm white. Cool white is more like the sun(and a more pure white imo) while warm white is equal to an incandescent light. I've spent about $600 on light bulbs, and I find it awesome that I can turn on every light on my ground level and use about 150 watts.

    LED light bulbs vary in quality, design, etc. quite a great deal. I had to buy quite a few models before I found ones I really liked. The ebay LED lights from China are horrible. I've bought 2 and they weren't worth the price of shipping and lasted less than 3 months. The others I've had for about 4 months and I'd never go back. I sent some to my mom in Phoenix and she finds that she doesn't see a difference in color or any "directional" problems with the lights.

    They are a rather large investment to start, but since I have no central A/C in the house, being able to turn lights on in a room and not cook is very useful.

    I typically buy bulbs from www.eternaleds.com or www.earthled.com.

    I highly recommend them, but you must do alot of shopping. Don't feel bad if you have to buy a few 1 packs just to figure out what you like and such.

  80. Re:Light bulb as a service by kenp2002 · · Score: 1

    Check you county ordinances. Here where I live disposing of a CFL in the trash is a $200 fine. You have to bring it to the hazerdous waste dispoal drop off (same place for paint, oil, etc.) and they charge $1 a bulb for disposal.

    --
    -=[ Who Is John Galt? ]=-
  81. The LED Christmas Lights are amazing by Torontoman · · Score: 1

    I'll be a convert in year 2 of this move to LEDs in the household. (whem competition brings the prices down)

    I've been waiting for this day.

    After Christmas a few years back I bought a pile of the LED Christmas lights (Sale...) and life got easy. No more dicking around with broken bulbs, burnouts, Testing, heat, blah blah. They're interior / exterior and bulletproof. The wires will probably disintegrate before the bulbs.

    I can see gradually converting the house over to these new LED house lights in time (All at once would cost me over $1,000 at starting prices). I see the long term payoff but really who had $1K sitting around to buy lightbulbs. Starting with my exterior front door light which we keep on all night.

    Overall this is a wonderful change. Can't wait!

  82. Re:Light bulb as a service by PitaBred · · Score: 1

    Aye. The EPA itself has some reasonable guidelines for cleaning up CFL's. The main point is the ventilate, and don't use a vacuum or anything that will put the dust into the air until you've picked and cleaned up everything else that you possibly can. Really, common sense shit.

  83. Not impressed by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    5.5 hrs / day * 365 days * 19 yrs = 38142hrs of use.

    Current commercial LED downlights have a warrantee for 50,000hrs @ 70% lumen maintainence (meaning after 50,000 hrs the fixture will still poduce 70% of initial lumens)

    The numbers initially sound good, but are average for well engineered LED downlights in today's market.

  84. Re:Light bulb as a service by Firethorn · · Score: 1

    That's pretty much what businesses and schools do in our litigious age. A local school in my area was recently closed for two days over an old barometer that got dropped in one of the science classrooms. They brought in a professional cleanup crew and spent $80,000 to have the mercury spill cleaned up.

    Meanwhile my junior high school only closed 4 directly effected classrooms when the roof paritally collapsed and dumped asbestos insulation all over.

    Just like the lady in the story, school officials are capable of overreacting as well.

    --
    I don't read AC A human right
  85. Truly efficient? by GameMaster · · Score: 1

    Some here have pointed out that, especially in colder climates, these bulbs aren't as much of an improvement in effiency as stated in the article. They argue that incandescent are cheap and produce waste heat which is useful in the winter. Now, this may be true, to some extent, but in many places electricity happens to be one of the most expensive forms of home heating. That blunts the advantage of the waste heat provided by incandescent bulbs. Also, there is still the summer months where not only is the LED bulb more efficient than the older bulbs, but the AC would no longer have to fight against the waste heat to keep your house cool. In the end, it is true that the true cost savings may be less than the stated $23 a year (even if you do use the bulb as much as is assumed) but that number shouldn't be as low as some people think. It may only be something like $18 per year.

    The question is, so what? The real issue is that many of the people on this forum have the patients of a 5 year old. If it doesn't provide immediate benefits they think it's garbage. Even if the savings are only half (just under $12 per year), you would still make back the cost of the bulb in under 4 years. Sure, the up-front cost is high compared to the older bulbs, but we aren't talking about something like solar panels, a new furnace, new appliances, new windows, new insulation, or ground source geo-thermal heating. Even replacing all the most commonly used bulbs in a house wouldn't come close to those, more common, energy saving measures. And, do you know what the best part about these bulbs are? Unlike most of the things I just mentioned, if you ever choose to move you can take them with you. Most large improvements in energy efficiency are invisible to new buyers and can be hard to get back in sale price. With LED bulbs, you don't have to worry about it. Sure, one or two might get broken, but if the rest last even half of their rated 19 year life-span they'll make up for those lost bulbs many times over.

    --

    Rules of Conduct:
    #1 - The DM is always right.
    #2 - If the DM is wrong, see rule #1
  86. CFL MTBF by sjbe · · Score: 1

    10 years? I've yet to have the spiral CCFLs last over 1.5 years.

    Then I would question either the quality of the power in your house, the quality of your bulbs, or maybe you are selectively picking data from just a few bulbs. I have a house with far more than the average number of CFL bulbs (around 100 total including 72 in one indirectly lit room) - more than enough to get something close to a normal distribution. Roughly 5% of them have burned out or been bad to start with in the last two years. Most have been working just fine - those that fail usually do so within the first few weeks.

  87. Heard this before by lymond01 · · Score: 1

    When Compact Flourescent bulbs first came out, I spent $10 each on two bulbs that were supposed to last 7 years. The first died in less than a month. The next in less than a year. Get back to me in 19 years when your research team isn't less important than your marketing team.

  88. misplaced pedantry by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    You mean canceled, not cancelled. Oh, and pedantry aside, ...

    "Canceled" versus "cancelled" depends upon whether you are writing American English, or British English, et cetera. For example, I have spell checking turned on in my browser yet it complains about neither "canceled" nor "cancelled" because my spelling dictionary is set to Canadian English (we Canucks are a little schizophrenic that way eh).

  89. Pricey? by DragonWriter · · Score: 1

    $40 still seems pretty pricey for a light bulb, even one that promises to save $23 a year in energy costs

    Really? With a 19 year lifespan?

    $23/year * 19 years = $437

    $437 / $40 = 10.925

    19th root of 10.925 = 1.1341

    13.41% annual return is pretty good.

  90. building level surge protector by Firethorn · · Score: 1

    That's for a rather cheap one, and you likely install it yourself.

    Mine technically isn't between the mains and the breaker box, but installs between the neutral and hots on a dual pole breaker. The idea is if voltage goes over a certain point it directs the excess voltage to ground.

    Provides protection H1-N, H2-N, H1-H2.

    The way I look at it, $100 bucks to protect the whole house is easily worth it compared to me spending $60 for a surge protector for each computer.

    --
    I don't read AC A human right
  91. Re:Light bulb as a service by Petaris · · Score: 1

    That happened with a new science teacher here. He found some spilled Mercury (from a broken thermometer) in the science storage room and they closed the school for a day and cost $8,000 to clean it up. Seems pretty stupid since its not *that* dangerous. But your right about the liability part, if some over reactive parent found out I'm sure there would have been legal costs.

    --
    ~Petaris "The world is open. Are you?"
  92. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    But that's what they have to do in this day and age.

    And want to do, since that's $80,000 more being pulled through the business of administration.

    If there's one thing you can count on with government, it's that they're quick to spend other people's money. The US government of today absolutely dwarfs the US government of only 100 years ago, both in revenue and power over the people. The reason is that more spending -- and more power which can be leveraged for even more spending -- benefits the people in the business of government.

  93. Bad Anecdote by sjbe · · Score: 1

    CFLs *hate* heat. CFLs hate cold. CFLs hate humidity. CFLs hate dimmers.

    I have CFL's above my stove, in an unheated garage, on my porch (get's below 0F where I live) and in both of my bathrooms. Never had a problem with any of them in 3 years. I also have about 70 (yes 70) CFLs on dimmer switches in my house due to one indirectly lit room. I have had very few bulbs burn out in the last 3 years - maybe 5 total. True, most CFLs don't work with dimmers, but some are ok for select applications. You just have to get the right bulb. While CFLs aren't the right choice for every application, they work just fine in a wide variety of environments and circumstances.

    New technologies have allowed folks like GE to build 60 watt incandescants that only use 30 watts while still providing the same brightness. So the net usage is the same as the CFL.

    GE discontinued development of those bulbs and the other companies experimenting with them have found they use 70% of the power of regular incandescents which is still much higher than CFLs. 70% of 60W is 42W versus the 15W-18W required from my 60W equivalent CFLs. Sorry but if I have a choice it's going to be a CFL. Most of the time I'll save money in the long run AND have to replace fewer bulbs.

    CFLs hate being turned on and off. Rapid cycling makes them die as quick as an incandescent bulb.

    I have over 110 bulbs in my house total - mostly CFL and some incandescent. I've replaced maybe 5 (out of over 85) in the last 2 years and I turn them on and off all the time. The rest of the bulbs are incandescent and I've replaced most of them at least once in that time. Frequent cycling really hasn't been a problem for me.

    CFLs have a warm-up time. Turn it on to read your paper, and you have to wait 5 minutes before you can see the writing.

    There are plenty of "instant on" CFL bulbs on the market. They reach usable brightness almost immediately. I don't have to wait at all for most of the bulbs in my house. Your information is wrong.

    1. Re:Bad Anecdote by commodore64_love · · Score: 1

      >>>70% of 60 incandescent is [42 voltamps] versus the [30-36 voltamps] required from my 60W equivalent CFLs

      Fixed that for you. You were comparing apples and oranges. At the end of the day it's the voltamps that matter, because that's what the electric company sees, and they must burn extra coal in order to rebalance the line. So really the CFL is only 19% more efficient which is shaving just a few pennies off your monthly bill. For the amount of hassles CFLs cause, it's not worth it IMHO.

      Can I use a CFL in my oven? No.
      Refrigerator? No.
      Enclosed fixtures? No.

      --
      "I disapprove of what you say, but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - historian Evelyn Beatrice Hall
  94. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    But that's what they have to do in this day and age.

    Wrong. What you have to do is home school your kids.... after all, how can you possibly let kids out into a dangerous world?

    Anything else is irresponsible.

  95. Re:Light bulb as a service by geekoid · · Score: 1

    So...?

    Mercury is a problem if you are constantly exposed to it, or are exposed to a massive dose.

    Neither apply to a CFL that breaks.

    --
    The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
  96. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Ya, that's completely stupid. Mercury itself isn't that big a deal, unless you start drinking the stuff. But the mercury in the CFC's enters a vapor state when broken, so it's actually a fairly serious issue. However the cleanup is pretty simple- open a window and turn on a fan.

    I have yet to see a valid study that claims the CFC's actually save any energy, once you factor in the entire product cycle. Start with the mining and refinement of the special materials, costs of shipping them, manufacturing the bulbs themselves, shipping them from China, trucking them to the store, and disposing them properly (or cleaning up the landfills when they are inevitably just tossed in the trash).
    But I guess as long as the extra energy use is over in China the UK and US companies and politicians just don't care, and it gives China another notch on their belt of trade exports.

  97. Re:Light bulb as a service by geekoid · · Score: 1

    They completly over reacted. Who threaten to sue them if they didn't so that? I would wager, no one.

    "Now I can understand closing off the classroom where the spill happened but closing the whole school seems rather excessive to me."

    You are correct

    "$80,000 for cleanup seems really excessive. "
    No for a professional cleanup at the level of fear your post seems to indicate. Use, it should ahve been swept up and contained and everything would ahve been fine. But for a hazmat cleanup, that price is about right.

    "But that's what they have to do in this day and age. "
    No, that's what some idiot in your school system perceived had to happen.

    --
    The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
  98. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    You live in the northeast? or at least eastern half of the US? the school district probably had to pay some union to do it, which is why it cost so much. oh, that, and buy off the EPA and OSHA.

  99. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    On the other hand:
          The Chemistry teacher I had in high school (in the US, Land of {Lawsuit, Overreaction . . . }) wanted to show us an example of gas pressure dropping due to a common occurrence. In this case, we looked at the water coming out of a tap. Before class began, she hooked up a mercury manometer to the tap and turned the tap on (I guess to test it, but maybe just to show something extra to kids who showed up a little early). As she had forgotten to leave adequate room for gas compared to the volume the water was occupying, the mercury was quickly and completely sucked out and shot into the sink. She immediately shut the water off and poured some powder over the spill to soak it up (and probably worked on cleaning it up more after we had left). I never though about it much at the time, but I bet a good bit made it down the sink before she could even shut off the tap. That was the end of it. No canceled school, hazmat crew, people in space suits from ET, etc.
          You might say, "This was back in the good old days when people were sane" but this was 2000/2001, well into the age of lawsuits, at a public high school. Or, maybe most people are still sane, and our news is just getting really good at finding every little odd story from the far corners of the world and giving it more attention than it ever would have received twenty years ago.

  100. Law of Diminishing Returns by default+luser · · Score: 1

    I just moved into my new house, and since it's just me, I only leave two lights on most of the time (kitchen and hallway). One is a 250w incandescent set (3 bulbs, kitchen), and the other is 75w incandescent.

    I got my first electric bill, and found that the kitchen light was costing me $25/month. So I looked at my alternatives:

    Can switch to CFL for around 60w (save $19 /month with no change in habits).

    Can switch to Philips Halogena for around 120w (save $13/month with no change in habits).

    Can just be more aggressive about turning-off the kitchen light when I'm not in it.

    In the end, I decided to go with the Halogena setup plus a more aggressive stance on turning-off that light. I really like the light quality of the incandescent - it is especially important because the colors of the room are all warm earth tones, and would look sick and dead under the blue/white light of CFLs. Plus, I really don't like the idea of having bulbs filled with mercury in a room with a ceramic floor (it magically attracts glass objects, and they create explosive splinters) and in a low-hanging light fixture that people constantly hit with objects. I've already had to clean-up one broken glass container in my first month living here, and I don't want to have to keep a Hazmat kit just in case the inevitable happens.

    I was just surprised at how MUCH I could save by moving to a more efficient halogen, and how little on top of that you save going to CFL. Ahh, good-old Law of Diminishing Returns.

    --

    Man is the animal that laughs.
    And occasionally whores for Karma.

    1. Re:Law of Diminishing Returns by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I moderated you as informative, because, well, it was informative. However, your math doesn't quit add up. To get equivalent light with the Halogena's you would need to use 200W. Whereas with the fluorescent you used 60W which would be the same light as your old 250W incan. I would agree that the halogens do give a better light and last longer than incans, but might still look at a better quality CFL or better yet a good quality 2-4 ft tube and compare again (the fluorescent tubes are better than CFL's for efficiency).

      Certainly turning off the light is still best as you noted!

    2. Re:Law of Diminishing Returns by default+luser · · Score: 1

      Yes, it's absolutely true I downgraded the amount of light in the process getting down to 120w. The light I have now is the equivalent of 3x60w normal bulbs (2400 lumen), whereas the previous owners had installed a 75, 75 and 100w bulb (4000 lumen) to make it brighter (easier to sell).

      After thinking about it, I realized that this was way more light than I needed - for incandescent bulbs.

      But here is where the science ends and my personal tastes begin: I had a full-sized fluorescent ceiling light in the kitchen at my old place (2 circular elements, 2x22w, 2300 lumen), and I always found the light to be cold. Despite that fairly high lumen rating, the room never felt all that bright, especially compared to an incandescent of a similar lumen. So when I did my comparisons, I assumed I would have to keep the same lumen if I went with florescent, hence my 60w estimate.

      I'm actually very happy with my current 3x40w Halogena "downgrade" (2400 lumen), despite the fact that this kitchen is larger than my last one. The amount of light really is enough, and the *quality* of the light makes a difference in just how much I need.

      --

      Man is the animal that laughs.
      And occasionally whores for Karma.

  101. Whooptie doo! 100+ yr light bulb already exists! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Longest burning Light Bulb in history. Now in its 108th year of illumination:
    http://www.centennialbulb.org/

  102. Re:Light bulb as a service by jabelli · · Score: 1

    And just about 20 years ago, in HS Physics class, we played with liquid Nitrogen and hammered a rubber nail into a board with a Mercury hammer.

    Also, why the hell isn't <sub> allowed html?

  103. Re:Long life bulbs cost versus cost of replacement by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    ... facilities manager at the local University...

    The day you install these $40 light bulbs at a University is the day before some enterprising jack-ass students with a homemade ladder will remove them all and resell them on craigslist.

  104. Lumens by ^_^x · · Score: 1

    This is great, though the link doesn't state how bright they are. It seems that lightbulb replacements lag behind the state of LED technology though - I once found an emitter array of 12 Seoul Semiconductor P4 chips that would output 2100 Lumens, I think at 12V, 1500mA. Cooling requirements weren't stated, but that's not a whole lot of power for that much light!

  105. This is not a "litiginous age" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The corporations that want liability limited so that they can poison you with impunity would like you to believe that Americans are lawsuit happy, but unfortunately the data indicate the exact opposite.

    Per unit population, lawsuits have been dropping for over a century. The corps just use raw numbers without per capita adjustments to scare you into repeating their self-serving "tort reform" memes. Lawyers play along because chumps will do the false analysis you just did and create more daily work for legal advisors.

    If our legal system had expanded to match our population expansion, most judges would have 2 hour work days. If our legal system had expanded in the way that our elected officials have bloated their staffs, most judges would have 2 hour work weeks.

    LOOK IT UP. Taking my word for it would be just as stupid as repeating corporate propaganda.

    We need more judges, not fewer lawsuits. Lawsuits are already a slowly vanishing phenomena.

  106. The hidden costs of change by westlake · · Score: 1

    The transition from gas to electric light did always not go smoothly.

    The available lighting affects your choice of color, detail, and texture in paint, fabrics, wallpapers and so on. It affects basic architectural decisions - the size and placement of windows and skylights.

    These can be really, really tough problems to fix.

    The candelabra bulb was a clumsy solution for an elegant cut-glass chandelier.

    But the chandelier was often the focus of room's interior design - and far too expensive to casually discard.
         

  107. Somebody's actually done the math here by sean.peters · · Score: 1

    ... and I really wish I had saved the link, but I can't find it now. The upshot was that you had to be in a very, very, cold place for to financially break even by retaining incandescents vs. switching to CFLs. Further, unless you got most of your electricity from totally green sources, you still wouldn't break even in terms of CO2 emissions. One of the few regions in North America where retaining incandescents would make financial and environmental sense was certain parts of Quebec.

  108. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    When I went to High School the science teacher passed some mercury around the class to show it as one of the elements. Everyone handled it. No one has ever gone crazy. I must kill ..ere I mean it didn't harm anyone chickens chickens chickens, and I am perfectly normal to kill all evil ants because they are tracking us down and living in our brains. Please don't try to scare people with this fear mongering.

  109. Re:Light bulb as a service by AthanasiusKircher · · Score: 1

    Once in my college chem lab, the student working next to me broke a mercury thermometer. The lab assistant who was supervising us (who was either a chemistry or ChemE grad student) went rather nuts, made me move all my equipment and do my work elsewhere, and he dumped a crazy amount of sulfur on the floor. He was worried about what else he should do. All this for a few grams of mercury.

    At the end of the lab period that day, I went up to him and showed him the MSDS sheets for all the chemicals we were using in that lab experiment that day. Basically, elemental mercury was less harmful than every compound we were using in that experiment. Why wasn't he running around acting like an idiot whenever we poured or moved any of the other chemicals? And this was someone who was a grad student at a major university who should know better.

    I still don't understand the insanity surrounding mercury, particularly elemental mercury. The EU has basically banned it; the US is working on doing the same. Organic mercury is a real problem, and we need to worry about contamination on large scales. But the amount of mercury in a thermometer isn't going to kill anyone. An old barometer has quite a bit, and it should require careful cleanup and disposal, but anyone with some training of handling chemicals (like a chemistry teacher) is more than qualified... it's certainly no where near the most dangerous substance used in a chem lab.

  110. Re:Light bulb as a service by AthanasiusKircher · · Score: 1

    One other thing -- my Dad worked in the "mercury room" at a plant that manufactured liquid mercury for industrial use in the 1960s. When he first got there, they basically had no regulations. But only one employee had ever shown significant poisoning symptoms, and he had been there for many years. Finally, they instituted some basic regulations about cleanup, basic decontamination showering, etc. after my Dad had been there a few years. Nothing like you'd see today. And yet neither my Dad nor any of his colleagues but that one ever had symptoms (one other guy apparently complained of headaches, which led to the new regulations), and they handled literally tons of liquid mercury every day without any real protection. My Dad still talks about how it was difficult to get it out of one's clothes and the color it turned your skin.

    Given those stories, and the fact that I can read a MSDS sheet, I really can't understand the current mercury scare insanity. Avoid environmental contamination -- of course. But the idea that miniscule amounts of mercury constitute a reason to close a school?

  111. That's 7-watts not 60-watts. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    That's 7-watts not 60-watts.

  112. Vl vs Real Property by drainbramage · · Score: 1

    Chattel is the term I was using for 'Personal Property' back when I was selling Real Estate (years ago).
    By the way, 'Light Bulb" "Light Fixture".
    Many fixtures are portable and would be considered chattel.
    That fixture the is built in to the ceiling, sure, part of the property.
    Removing bulbs was not treated as a violation but was/is clearly tacky.

    --
    No brain, no pain.
  113. only 19 years? by Khashishi · · Score: 1

    Am I supposed to be impressed? This seems like a non-story to me. Here it says that the MTBF of LEDs is between 100000 and 1000000 hours. That's 10 to 100 years, 24 hours a day. (or 50 to 500 years if used 5 1/2 hours a day, assuming burnout only in operation)

  114. Re:Light bulb as a service by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    According to what I have heard, metallic mercury is not as harmful as some of the organic compounds. You still don't want long term exposure to it.

    The advice I was given for dealing with small spills is to spread flowers of sulphur (or sulfur in the US) over the spill. This will react with the mercury to give mercury sulphide, which is non volatile. So then you can clean it up easily and any you miss will not be quietly vapourising and turning you into the mad hatter. (Flowers of Sulphur is just finely divided powder of sulphur, you will also need it if you want to make gunpowder.)

  115. Obligatory by pugugly · · Score: 1

    Linux Does

    --
    An Invisible Entity of Vast Power whose existence must be taken on faith alone: Liberal Media
  116. Re:Light bulb as a service by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

    Mercury is a problem if you are constantly exposed to it, or are exposed to a massive dose.

    My grandfather was a physician/dentist (before there was much to either). In medical school, he'd do autopsies of old people who had died of normal causes (MI, etc., this was 1910's, life expectancy was pretty low). When they would saw open a long bone, they'd keep a tray in front of it - to catch the large volume of mercury that would run out of them. Apparently doctors used to prescribe quicksilver for 'what ails you', and while I'm sure the mercury probably did some damage, apparently it wasn't what usually killed the poor patients.

    We're lucky to have science-based medicine today,

    --
    My God, it's Full of Source!
    OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  117. motion sensors by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

    Dimming CFLs just isn't really worth it.

    If I'm at all typical, my only interest in dimmable CFL's is for use in motion sensors. I've bought a few types of CFL's that were labeled dimmable and they all flicker something fierce in my motion sensor fixtures. One that's not labeled dimmable (that I got maybe 6-7 years ago) does work. When it dies I'll open it up to see what's inside.

    If I have to replace my outside motion-sensing fixtures, the cost savings of CFL's more than evaporate.

    --
    My God, it's Full of Source!
    OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  118. It's not the money savings... by twoHats · · Score: 1

    Cost of light bulbs? How about the climbing up into the rafters to replace a bulb? How about having to search all over the house for a bulb when one (always unexpectedly) blows out? How about handling bulbs at all? Ever had one separate in your hand? have to get the needlenose to get the rest out? etc etc etc - now if i don't have to do any of that for 19 years!!! Yes!

  119. selling a house by j-beda · · Score: 1

    In the US and Canada at least, my understanding is that unless you have it written into the contract of sale, you cannot take any appliances or light fixtures when you sell a house - one might think that light bulbs might fall under this category. Thus, the new owners might have the ability to sue for the cost of replacements.

    With that said, if we were to move in the near future, I would probably go to the basement and take the big box of incandescent bulbs and swap out as many CFLs with those as I had.

    Taking the hooks off the walls and filling the holes might be considered a service.

  120. forgot to mention... by Firethorn · · Score: 1

    forgot to finish:
    I didn't install the surge supressor to protect my CFLs, but my home's electronics as a whole, and the CFLs lasted quite a while before I installed it.

    --
    I don't read AC A human right
  121. Passivhaus by Firethorn · · Score: 1

    Oil and electricity prices aren't really connected. Oil is an insignificant method of producing electricity in the USA, thus electricity costs should stay around the same, though they might double if EV's become common enough.

    Note that I was saying you can't just plop a passivhaus everywhere, that they need to be regionalized.

    For the Georgia example, it'd take more than 500 watts of air conditioner just to take the heat generated by humans out of the house. I'd be more tempted to install a solar powered absorbtion chiller personally. You're also going to want some sort of dehumidification system, maybe a cold water system, and the massive construction would help keep temperatures down when the sun sets and the active cooling stops.

    You can still build a energy efficient home in Georgia, you just have to take different steps.

    --
    I don't read AC A human right
  122. Eco-Marketing..... by IHC+Navistar · · Score: 1

    A bulb that requires a HAZMAT clean-up process when it breaks is absolutely NO GREENER than an incandescent bulb. Period.

    Incandescent Bulb:
    1) Tunsten wire,
    2) Glass,
    3) Tin-based solder,
    4) Steel filament supports.

    = 100% RECYCLABLE, even if broken.

    Flourescent Bulb:

    1) Tungsten filament,
    2) Mercury,
    3) Phosphors,
    4) Steel filament supports,
    5) Glass,
    6) Tin-based solder.

    =Not recyclable (mercury released when broken), phosphors and mercury not reclaimed.

    Light-Emitting Diode Bulb:

    1) Plastic encasement,
    2) Copper,
    3) Semi-conductor element,
    4) Tin-based solder,
    5) Steel contacts.

    = Possibly recyclable, depending on the methods used to reclaim semi-conductor material.

    Hopefully, these bulbs won't be the Environmental "Snake Oil" that flourescent bulbs are.

    --
    Knowing Google's lust for data collection, the Soviet Union is still alive and well inside the psyche of Sergey Brin....