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Ford To Offer Fuel-Saving 'Start-Stop' System

Ponca City writes "The Detroit Free Press reports that Ford plans to offer start-stop systems on many cars in 2012 that save fuel by turning an engine off when the vehicle is idling and quickly restart it when the driver releases the brake or steps on the gas pedal, improving fuel economy by 4% to 10%, depending on driving conditions. The system, common in Europe on cars with manual transmissions, is already in use in the US on gasoline-electric hybrids, including the Ford Fusion Hybrid. Automakers have been reluctant to add the feature to cars in the US because the testing method that the Environmental Protection Agency uses to determine fuel efficiency ratings doesn't include many stops and thus doesn't recognize the technology's effectiveness."

572 comments

  1. Buy a Ford! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Funny

    Buy a Ford!

    1. Re:Buy a Ford! by operagost · · Score: 2, Interesting

      At least it's not Government Motors.

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    2. Re:Buy a Ford! by sycodon · · Score: 3, Insightful

      FORD: Bringing Golf Cart technology to the Masses.

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    3. Re:Buy a Ford! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      No, seriously, buy a Ford.

      (I wasn't the parent poster.)

      Ford has greatly improved their vehicles since, oh, 2002 or so. They were known for some shoddy workmanship for roughly a decade (starting around 1993), but their QC has improved significantly, as has their quality engineering.

      GM, on the other hand, still sucks.

      (PS. I own a 26-year-old Chevy van and a 2000 Ford Focus. I like my Chevy better, but that's largely personal preference. The Focus, with 160k on it, has had regular maintenance (fluids + filters), brakes done - and a pair of shocks (on the front). Still getting about 26mpg, with no fluid leaks or other issues (aside from the body damage resulting from 4 not-at-fault collisions - which is good, because the insurance on that is killing me.)

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    4. Re:Buy a Ford! by macraig · · Score: 1

      No. Ummm... do I get to keep my knees?

    5. Re:Buy a Ford! by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Can I get a fiesta or similar in stick shift? Is it the german one or some POS altered thing for the US market?

      The focus is typical american crap, overly soft suspension, steering wheel response of a dead fish, etc.

    6. Re:Buy a Ford! by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      In addition to the other responder's gripes about crappy suspension and steering response, the other reason NOT to buy a Ford is styling: their new cars are all butt-ugly. (Actually, all their cars have been butt-ugly for about 40 years, so it's nothing new.)

      Why are American automakers always completely unable to make attractive cars?

    7. Re:Buy a Ford! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      A few months back, I was 300KMs from home having to pass through Toronto but I had a faulty battery. Had to get it boosted as it had shorted. Anyway, long story short, I hope there is an override method with this system because I would have been stranded if this thing kept turning the car off.

    8. Re:Buy a Ford! by Lehk228 · · Score: 1

      i have no idea if it's the same as the german one buy you can get all Fiesta and Focus are available in most trim levels with Manual, the Fusion the lower two have manual available, and the top trim has 6 speed Select Shift (Ford's paddle shifter), the mustang has 6 speed manual at all trim levels, only the new taurus is unavailable in manual, and at least the SHO also has 6 speed select shift.

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    9. Re:Buy a Ford! by h4rr4r · · Score: 0

      The Fusion is a damn boat, the focus has typical crap American suspension and steering. The rustang is a huge waste of money and fuel.

    10. Re:Buy a Ford! by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      It will be a cold, cold day in hell before I buy anything other than a) a toyota, b) a honda, or c) a Tesla.

      Fool me once and all that.

      (Fark you American car companies, you had your chance)

    11. Re:Buy a Ford! by hairyfeet · · Score: 2

      I wouldn't say they sucked in the 90s either, just on certain models (The Taurus from what I've been told really wasn't good) but their trucks were to use a slogan "Built Ford Tough". I have a 99 Ranger that even after 130,000 miles purrs just like the day it rolled off the line, those Vulcan V6s are some solid motors and there have been many reports of guys getting over 300,000 before needing a rebuild. while my dad prefers his 2011 F350 he still has his 95 F350 for hauls that might scratch the paint, and even after being loaded down with electrical equipment for nearly 15 years of 5 day a week work she still does her jobs quite well. Gas of course isn't the greatest, but what do you expect? It's a truck. My mom's 93 Focus still drives her around 3 to 4 times a week, never fails, makes a great "little old lady" car and gets good gas mileage.

      So I'd have to say after having just about every make of vehicle out there the Fords I've owned always were the most trouble free. Now don't even get me started on Dodge of the 90s or the super craptastic Chevy of the 80s. The 90s Ram broke me of buying Dodge just like the 80s Camaro broke me of buying Chevy. I swear you needed to carry a net behind those suckers to catch all the crap falling off! But if I were to go out and purchase a new truck it would have to be Ford, they really do make damned good work vehicles. That is why I still can't believe they want to get rid of the Ranger, the 4cyl model in Company White is THE fleet vehicle for just about every business where they need a decent truck, from the local plumbers to Napa Auto Parts. For a work truck it just seems to be the perfect size for everyday jobs and is pretty much the ONLY small truck out there anymore!

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    12. Re:Buy a Ford! by afidel · · Score: 4, Informative

      Guess you missed the 365HP/350lb ft, 25MPG Taurus SHO with the 3.5 V6 then, eh? Adding this would just improve that fuel economy while costing nothing in performance. Compare it to the 3.7L 305HP/275lb ft Acura TL with the same fuel consumption in a 400lb lighter car. Ford became pretty serious about US fuel economy a couple years ago and they mortgaged the company a couple years ago to achieve it and it's rightfully paying off for them.

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    13. Re:Buy a Ford! by sycodon · · Score: 1

      I think you missed my point.

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    14. Re:Buy a Ford! by Lilith's+Heart-shape · · Score: 1

      Because American automakers don't hire ex-Apple designers.

    15. Re:Buy a Ford! by Lilith's+Heart-shape · · Score: 1

      I don't settle for American pussy. Why would I settle for an American car?

    16. Re:Buy a Ford! by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Nor should they. All they have to do is hire the designers of European (Mercedes especially) or Japanese cars and they'd be set. Instead, they seem to have hired designers who have no taste.

    17. Re:Buy a Ford! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      I can't speak for the later year model Focus, but the 2000 has a fairly responsive wheel, and I'd not say the suspension is "soft". It's not a sport's car, but it's not a Cadillac, either. It's a reasonably comfortable car for tootling around town, if you're small enough.

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    18. Re:Buy a Ford! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      Uh have you looked at the newer Mustangs? With a 5 liter v8, they get 25+mpg highway. That's pretty acceptable, particularly what the vehicle outputs and the handling. This is not a 1980s Mustang.

      Honestly, if you think the Focus and the Mustang are crap, i'm wondering what you're looking for, exactly. A Rabbit or Geo type thing with a 3-gear slushbox? Good for you, I suppose.

      Personally, I like my boat, and I'm suitably happy with the golf cart Focus.

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    19. Re:Buy a Ford! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      I really wish Ford had gone ahead and kept working on that inline 4 diesel they were talking about for, I think it was, the 2008 model. It was slated to go in the Ranger and the similarly bodied SUV at the time, I recall. I'd have bought one of those in a hot minute (and I don't "do" new vehicles).

      That would have been a really, really sweet ride.

      In its class, the only thing similar to a Ranger are those bodykit or imported (from Egypt) Jeep Trucks. Failing that you're looking at a used S10 or Ranger.

      And yes, Ford trucks are just damn well made. They're durable and feel sturdy compared to the 'same weight rating' model from Chevy; their engines are historically better than Dodges.

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    20. Re:Buy a Ford! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 2

      Actually, there is another company that makes something similar to a Ranger, still - Toyota Tacoma. Supposedly the Tacoma is the reason why the Ranger is falling behind; I don't know.

      I'm sure it's not a bad truck, but I'd not trust it, given what I've seen from Toyotas in my short few years.

      It's quite possible Ford just didn't charge enough for the Rangers, or made them too well: people don't buy them anymore because they already have one, or they're readily available on the road, still. :)

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    21. Re:Buy a Ford! by arisvega · · Score: 1

      (Fark you American car companies, you had your chance)

      Ah noooo don't say that!! We here in Yurop have a soft spot for Pontiacs and Mustangs (have you seen the 2011 V6 model? Geezus!)

      And there are highways here with no speed limits!

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    22. Re:Buy a Ford! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      too funny!

    23. Re:Buy a Ford! by pLnCrZy · · Score: 1

      Nor should they. All they have to do is hire the designers of European (Mercedes especially) or Japanese cars and they'd be set. Instead, they seem to have hired designers who have no taste.

      (Emphasis mine)...

      Japanese cars... really? Have you SEEN the front end of an Acura or Honda lately? My 2008 MDX has an ugly-ass grille, and they only got worse in the 3 years since. Huge faux-chrome plastic shields on a car that goes for over 50k, 60k with options? Toyotas are only marginally less ugly. I would say by comparison American carmakers are turning out same damn fine looking rides. The 2011 Explorer (since we're talking about Ford) is actually rather nice looking, I think. The Ford Edge is quite well-designed, and the Lincoln version (the MKX) is sleek and sexy. The GMC Acadia is also fairly attractive for an SUV / CUV. The new Mustangs are downright handsome. The Corvette is about is sexy as they come, and the Camaro actually pulled off the retro-meets-modern style. Cadillac has a few questionable design choices, but they have a tighter focus and they really hit the mark for the target market. I'm not a fan of the Dodge designs, but that's just my taste, plenty of people like their designs.

      Ford is also leading with technology. The Sync system (yeah yeah, let's hear the Microsoft haters...) was/is almost universally regarded as the best in-car infotainment system on the market, and they're on their second iteration of it now in a lot of 2011 models. The MyFord / MyLincoln Touch is stellar, and I haven't seen anything in any other brand of car (and I've been shopping...) that even comes close. Acura's new models feel dated by comparison. Audi, VW, Mercedes, BMW... they all have good NAV/audio/climate systems, but none of them are in the same league, and they all cost quite a bit more.

      Hate on Ford all you want... but it really can't be denied that they're not the same company they were 10, or even 5 years ago. I'm actually seriously considering buying my first Ford ever (2011 Explorer).

    24. Re:Buy a Ford! by MrNiCeGUi · · Score: 1

      The american Ford Fusion has no relation to the european one. The european one is a slightly bigger Fiesta and the american one is a big sedan.

    25. Re:Buy a Ford! by hairyfeet · · Score: 1

      The Tacoma is more of a mid size like the F150, whereas the Ranger is a compact truck, like the old S10. And frankly I never understood why everyone is supposed to always "change the line" all the time. if it ain't broke, why fix it? I had a 96 King Cab, and finding parts for that thing was a pain. With my Ranger being "Company White" if someone was to rear end my truck I could have a new bed in a day.

      I think the problem with Ford is they simply haven't advertised the Ranger like they have the Explorer and the Mustang. If they would have hyped the Ranger and its Vulcan V6 there would probably be even more of them on the road, and what is REALLY stupid is according to Wikipedia the Ranger is STILL a decent seller, with it being quite popular as a fleet truck due to its good gas mileage and hauling capacity! Why would you want to get rid of a line that STILL sells after you have neglected it for over a decade?

      I think it just shows what is wrong with the American auto industry as a whole. If it isn't flashy, look like something from the 60s, or have lots of bling they simply ignore or kill it, when all that is needed to keep making good money off of it is a little advertising and maybe change the body panel style a little. If they would push it as "The truck for the working man that is light on his wallet" they'd have NO problems gaining even more sales. As I said even after a decade of being ignored I still see more new and old Rangers on the road than anything else around here, especially with companies. And I have to agree with you on Toyota. My family went through a few of those before giving up, they looked cool, but they certainly wasn't as reliable as a Ford.

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    26. Re:Buy a Ford! by John+Betonschaar · · Score: 1

      The focus is typical american crap, overly soft suspension, steering wheel response of a dead fish, etc.

      That's odd, because over here (Europe) the Focus is widely regarded as one of the best mid-size front-wheel drive platforms if it comes to suspension and handling. Don't they sell the sporty versions in the US, the Rallye or (even better) the ST? The Focus ST scored very high marks here and I think up to now there haven't been a lot of cars in the same class that got better reviews. Maybe the new Renault Megane RS, but I don't think you can buy that in the US.

      Maybe the US Focus is modified compared to the EU version or something, otherwise I don't get the 'typical american crap' part of your comment. When I'm in the US I always wonder why an american car maker such as Ford seems to sell mostly craptastic, oversize, inefficient and ugly models in their own area, while (in my opinion) better models such as the Focus and the Fiesta (which is a great car is all you need is something small, efficient and fun to drive) apparently only sell well in Europe. Note that I'm not a Ford fan at all, but the Focus and Fiesta are simply pretty good cars overall.

    27. Re:Buy a Ford! by John+Betonschaar · · Score: 1

      Eh? Of all the European car makers you pick Mercedes as having great designs? The last 10 generations of Mercedes' all looked almost exactly the same, there's almost no design in them at all if you compare them to a 10 year old Mercedes. Same holds for BMW by the way, most BMW models have also been very subtle evolutions of previous models. That doesn't make them bad cars by the way, but if you want an example of car makers that pay a lot of attention to design (whether you like their designs or not), you should be looking at (e.g.) French cars like the new Citroens and Renaults, they have usually distinctive designs, or Italian cars (Alfa Romeo, Fiat).

    28. Re:Buy a Ford! by Cederic · · Score: 1

      Guess you missed the 365HP/350lb ft, 25MPG Taurus SHO [...] Ford became pretty serious about US fuel economy a couple years ago

      Sorry, but even at US gallon sizes, 25 is shit. Very fucking shit.

      You may argue that it's a performance car, that it's comparable or better than other cars in its class, and I don't know and don't care whether that's the case. People don't buy a Ferrari because it's fuel efficient.

      If you want to suggest Ford cares about fuel economy, try quoting a vehicle that actually shows it.

    29. Re:Buy a Ford! by RasputinAXP · · Score: 1

      Sadly they only sell the bone stock Focus, which hasn't really been updated very well. They just started selling the Fiesta, which I recognized from the Top Gear episode they used it in to storm the beaches with the Royal Marines.

      That alone gets me excited :P

    30. Re:Buy a Ford! by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      No buy a Honda.

      the ONLY ford car made that get's decent gas mileage is the ford fiesta, and that car is actually not made by ford.

      Honestly, not ONE american car entices me. They all suck at fuel economy, are built so poorly that they will be junk in 10 years, and are still priced wrong. Hello $9,000.00 MSRP cars are needed, there are far more poor people than rich people who can afford a $40,000 subcompact Chevy Volt. the CAN build a $9,000 hybrid, they simply choose to not do it.

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    31. Re:Buy a Ford! by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      25mpg is a utter joke. My MINIVAN gets that.

      If a car like the Taurus cant get 40mpg in lean cruise on the highway then it's designed by morons.

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    32. Re:Buy a Ford! by arivanov · · Score: 1

      _WRONG_. It costs in performance.

      Start/Stop causes extra wear and tear on the engine block. Additionally, you need to ensure that the engine block retains heat longer which in most cases means bigger and heavier engine block. Similarly, you may need some extra work on the cat and emission control to keep the entire system warm and ensure you stay within pollution limits. On top of that you need a beefier starter motor and a beefier battery or a supercapacitor system to ensure you get the cranking current for it so that the engine starts up straight away. And so on. All of this adds weight which in turn costs in performance.

      It also does not solve the biggest problem with in-traffic economy. A good engine especially diesel eats nearly nothing in idle (especially with manual). Now acceleration is what really eats fuel - from stop to going.

      All in all you get worse pollution (and nastier - particles and unburned/partially burned hydrocarbons), worse economy and worse performance than an smaller and "weaker" normal engine with an electric boost similar to the one on the Honda, Mercedes and a few others.

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    33. Re:Buy a Ford! by jawtheshark · · Score: 1

      It's a very weird phenomenon. Mercedes ranks very high in US perception. Over here in Europe, a Mercedes is for old people... For me it's a farmers car. If a farmer is a bit well off; he'll buy a Mercedes. You could bet your first born on that. (Small company owners also invariably own Mercedes.... Hello father in law!)

      BMW is for posers (sorry) and Audi is for those who can't afford either (Disclaimer: I'm an Audi owner). None of these brands actually do much design (Audi most, but that's because they stay in the third place of the luxury car segment meaning they have more headroom for failure). That segment comes with a price: design is very costly, in the sense that the buyers of these cars won't buy a car they don't visually like. Hence the very small design changes. This is not true in the nomal/budget brands: People need a car; the price is right, well it's not that pretty but it's reliable and it will get you from A to B. I once saw an interview with one of the Mercedes design team leader who explained this problem and he did of course a much better job that I do right now.

      Mercedes/BMW/Audi DO change design, but they do it first in the cheaper models and see how the reaction is. Easy to see: the Audi A3 got the "new front" first, all the other models later. Much later. Consider also the Mercedes A-Class, which radically departs from the Mercedes standard design. They can do it there, because if it doesn't sell well it is written off as "No Mercedes demand in that price-class". The US market never see those cars, by the way.

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    34. Re:Buy a Ford! by networkBoy · · Score: 1

      I'm wondering about starter wear and such...
      I realize there won't be much piston/cam/rocker wear like there normally is at startup because the engine was very recently lubed but still, the starter is going to get a workout.
      I would shift into neutral and not stop with the break long enough to trigger the thing, just idle in neutral.

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    35. Re:Buy a Ford! by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      Actually, there is another company that makes something similar to a Ranger, still - Toyota Tacoma. Supposedly the Tacoma is the reason why the Ranger is falling behind; I don't know.

      The reason that the Ranger is falling behind is that it has had almost no upgrades in, what is it, 23 years? Seriously. The fact that its still around and doing as well as it is should be lauded, not lamented.

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    36. Re:Buy a Ford! by afidel · · Score: 1

      It's a 365HP performance car that does 0-60 in 5.4 seconds which is faster than a BMW 550i by a lot and it gets significantly better fuel economy.

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    37. Re:Buy a Ford! by afidel · · Score: 1

      They don't use a starter motor they use a slightly bigger flywheel which can help with performance (or hinder it depending on the design).

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    38. Re:Buy a Ford! by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Ford Focus RS is a

      • LOT

      faster than the SHO and it get's 33.6mpg from the EPA rating.

      Oh want proof?

      SHO 365HP at 4102pounds.
      FocusRS 301HP at 3234pounds.
      In simple HP to weight, where it actually matters, the RS wins.

      Plus the Rs has a lot less unsprung weight in it making it faster off the line. The handling on the RS is far FAR better than the SHO. This was simply staying inside the Ford product lines.

      The SHO is a gas pig because it's too damn heavy, because it's too big and has too much garbage in it.

      The SHO is NOT a "performance car" its a big heavy pig sedan.

      Mustang Saleen is a mild performance car.
      Ford F40 is a REAL performance car.

      a SHO is not by even the wildest stretch of anyone imagination a "performance car" it's a geezer boat.

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    39. Re:Buy a Ford! by mcgrew · · Score: 2

      [Citation needed]. In fact, most of your whole comment was hogwash.

      Start/Stop causes extra wear and tear on the engine block.

      How?

      Additionally, you need to ensure that the engine block retains heat longer which in most cases means bigger and heavier engine block

      Retaining heat is not a problem with any engine, especially a water-cooled engine. Start your engine and watch your temperature guage; shut it off when it's halfway to normal operating temperature. Start it again ten minutes later and you'll see the guage is HIGHER than it was when you shut it off.

      On top of that you need a beefier starter motor and a beefier battery

      Today's cars alread have beefier batteries and alternators because of today's radios. As to starters, I haven't had to replace an engine's starter in almost four decades.

      A good engine especially diesel eats nearly nothing in idle (especially with manual).

      At idle you get zero MPG, and your transmission has nothing to do with it. The longer you sit with your engine idling the lower your average fuel economy will be.

      However, I will agree that takeoff and acceleration are the bane of mileage, which is why I try to "drive the lights"; there's no reason to have your foot on the gas pedal when the light ahead is red.

      Your brakes eat gas, too -- every time you touch your brake, the gasoline you converted to kinetic energy on takeoff os converted to heat and allowed to dissipate. Braking decreases mileage.

    40. Re:Buy a Ford! by Bertie · · Score: 2

      He probably just wishes he could buy a European Ford in America as they're generally far superior. Presumably the reason why they aren't available is that Americans aren't used to paying so much money for small cars. There's less of a perceived correlation between size, status and quality on this side of the pond.

    41. Re:Buy a Ford! by Bertie · · Score: 1

      You should compare it to the European one. I've driven both. They look the same on the outside, but drive very differently, and the American one has noticeably inferior interior trim. But then, in America the Focus is a really cheap car, whereas in Europe it's average family transport and thus is built to a higher spec.

    42. Re:Buy a Ford! by GooberToo · · Score: 3, Interesting

      _WRONG_. It costs in performance.

      Not true.

      Start/Stop causes extra wear and tear on the engine block.

      The majority of all engine wear comes during start/warming of an engine, but only because its when oil pressure doesn't exist and lubrication has gone elsewhere.

      In this situation, it doesn't apply because the engine has been freshly lubricated and oil lines are likely still highly pressurized. So unless you have extensive and conclusive studies, your comment completely flies in the face of all established ICE doctrine.

      Additionally, you need to ensure that the engine block retains heat longer which in most cases means bigger and heavier engine block

      No you don't. That's only true for diesel engines which require a thermal element to start. I looks like we're talking about gasoline engines. So your comment seemingly has absolutely no merit.

      Similarly, you may need some extra work on the cat and emission control to keep the entire system warm and ensure you stay within pollution limits.

      The catalytic converter does need to maintain a specific temperature range to properly function. This, however, can be addressed by the use of a heating elements (to maintain a temp - even perhaps outside of limits) and/or periodic engine starts (to maintain limits).

      On top of that you need a beefier starter motor and a beefier battery

      Thus far, this appears to be your first legitimate complaint. Having said that, starter technology has progressed significantly over the last two decades. Starters can now be roughly a quarter the size they were only two or three decades ago and with much higher reliability. So lets say they add an extra ten pounds of weight in starter/battery. That's comparable to roughly 1.2 gallons of automotive fuel. If the technology can save 10%, for most vehicles, that alone more than offsets the weight penalty associated with the added technology.

      to ensure you get the cranking current for it so that the engine starts up straight away.

      Wrong. This is seemingly like a pattern here.

      They specifically stop the engine at a specific position so that it need only spark to initiate combustion, rotation, starting, and charging of the battery. So basically, nothing really new needs to take place. The only caveat is one needs to properly monitor the battery's health to ensure the engine starts, to recharge the battery and/or maintain catalytic converter efficiency.

      A good engine especially diesel eats nearly nothing in idle

      I no longer remember the exact number, but idle consumption in the US alone is a considerable amount of fuel. So reduction of this consumption is a worthy goal and should not be hand waved and ignored.

      All in all you get worse pollution (and nastier - particles and unburned/partially burned hydrocarbons),

      Completely baseless statement and likely extremely wrong. In fact, its extremely likely to dramatically reduce pollution as idle is typically the lowest point of efficiency for ICE and catalytic converters. By almost entirely doing away with the phase which creates a disproportionate amount of pollution, the increase in air quality is likely to be disproportionately profound.

      worse economy and worse performance than an smaller and "weaker" normal engine with an electric boost similar to the one on the Honda, Mercedes and a few others.

      Completely baseless statement and likely extremely wrong.

      Frankly, I'm not sure anything you said is even remotely grounded in fact.

    43. Re:Buy a Ford! by Bertie · · Score: 2

      The Fiesta very much is made by Ford, in their factory in Cologne (and maybe some other places too by now). I really don't know what you're talking about.

    44. Re:Buy a Ford! by mcgrew · · Score: 1

      Ford has greatly improved their vehicles since, oh, 2002 or so. They were known for some shoddy workmanship for roughly a decade (starting around 1993)

      They made shitty cars DECADES ago. The only Ford I ever owned was a 1969 Mustang I bought in 1971. Fast car, but I spent more time under the hood changing alternators, starters, and pumps than I did driving the damned thing. Found on road dead, fix or repair daily were what FORD was an acronym for even way back then.

      I'm driving an '02 Concorde, aside fro routine maintenance (oil changes, tires, steering alignment, battery) the only parts that have failed were the rocker arm bushings, and that after well over 100,000 miles of Illinois potholes. And I've gotten 36 MPG on the highway at 50 MPH. It gets 27-30 at 68 mph. And it's big and comfortable.

    45. Re:Buy a Ford! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      I feel the same way about the 3rd generation full-size vans and trucks from Ford and Chevy: they were made from '81-93' (Ford) and '73-'91 (Chevy) without any significant revisions. Body panels, suspension, engine, windows, seats, etc.: they're all (mostly) interchangeable across the model line. You can take engine parts from an F150 and put them in an E150, or G vans into C trucks (for the front end suspension and engine, at least).

      Yeah, they crushed a lot of the parts to get the metal a couple years ago, but the yards are full of parts again (Cash for Mostly-Good-And-Working-Cars-But-Detroit-Needs-A-Handout).

      Personally, I just picked up an '84 G30 6.2l MI diesel. I love it, and it shows no signs of quiting (or significant body rust, thank goodness). I'd been looking for a Ranger in decent condition, but I really wanted a diesel (and full-size vans aren't nearly as expensive used as a Ranger is: used light trucks have a pretty high premium on them, for some reason. :P)

      I'm still keeping my eyes peeled for a Ranger. With the Vulcan engine, they're a good buy, assuming the rest is in servicable condition. It wouldn't hurt Ford to 'upgrade' the design somewhat and add a couple things to it to improve its performance. The fact that Toyota is beating Ford on price and fuel economy (while having a larger engine in their Tacoma) hurts Ford significantly, and I suspect it's not something that couldn't be remedied.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    46. Re:Buy a Ford! by jandrese · · Score: 1

      Then why won't they stick the damn 1.6 or 2.0 Ecoboost in a Fusion? Been waiting for that car since the Ecoboost was announced, and it is still a no-show.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
    47. Re:Buy a Ford! by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      A European Ford. I want a stick shift, I want 40ish mpg and I want tight steering and suspension.

    48. Re:Buy a Ford! by arivanov · · Score: 1

      A good engine especially diesel eats nearly nothing in idle

      I no longer remember the exact number, but idle consumption in the US alone is a considerable amount of fuel. So reduction of this consumption is a worthy goal and should not be hand waved and ignored

      US != the rest of the world and vice versa

      US is automatic and customary automatic and unless you put it into Neutral at the red lights it is not true unloaded idle. There is load on the engine which causes it burn WAY more fuel than an average EU manual car (especially a diesel).

      So the figures for consumption are not surprising. No need to stop it by the way. Just fully separating the clutch when break is pressed even if the car is not in neutral should do the job.

      --
      Baker's Law: Misery no longer loves company. Nowadays it insists on it
      http://www.sigsegv.cx/
    49. Re:Buy a Ford! by GooberToo · · Score: 1

      US != the rest of the world and vice versa

      You took my line. But the fact is, the article is about slow adoption because US standards don't account for the inclusion of the technology. So while I absolutely agree the US != the world, the fact remains the article is largely about American consumers.

      US is automatic and customary automatic and unless you put it into Neutral at the red lights it is not true unloaded idle. There is load on the engine which causes it burn WAY more fuel than an average EU manual car (especially a diesel).

      This is absolutely true. But even at true idle, pollution in-efficiencies tend to be highest toward idle; regardless of "idle" or "true-idle" state. In fact, "idle" is more likely to provide less "more bad" pollutants than "true idle".

      So the figures for consumption are not surprising. No need to stop it by the way. Just fully separating the clutch when break is pressed even if the car is not in neutral should do the job.

      Except that in markets where stop and go traffic is likely to be the highest, manual transmission sales are likely to be their lowest. As a US driver who has literally sat in some of the worst stop and go traffic the US has to offer (in multiple states and cities), I can authoritatively say, use of a manual transmission in these conditions absolutely sucks and borders on the stupid. Furthermore, with the rapid increase in automatic transmission efficiencies, except when at idle, its hard to argue for manual transmissions any more. The difference these days is frequently only a couple percentile; excluding excessive stop and go traffic.

    50. Re:Buy a Ford! by norton_I · · Score: 1

      US != the rest of the world and vice versa

      Since the article is about US models of cars, the US numbers are appropriate. Since the article claims that this feature is already common in European diesels, I would guess that it is still a win in those cars as well.

    51. Re:Buy a Ford! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Starter motor manufacturers jump with joy!

    52. Re:Buy a Ford! by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Japanese cars... really? Have you SEEN the front end of an Acura or Honda lately? My 2008 MDX has an ugly-ass grille, and they only got worse in the 3 years since. Huge faux-chrome plastic shields

      Ok, you've got a point there. I don't know what happened over at Honda/Acura, but they seem to have hired some American designers or something lately.

      When I said Japanese, I was really thinking about Honda/Acura over the last 25 years or so, excluding the last 2 or 3. You mention your Acura MDX, and I'll add that the new TL is butt-ugly too. But look at the previous-generation TL: that car is very nice looking, as are all the cars from that generation, and before.

      The 2011 Explorer (since we're talking about Ford) is actually rather nice looking, I think. The Ford Edge is quite well-designed, and the Lincoln version (the MKX) is sleek and sexy.

      You complain about faux-chrome crap and ugly-ass grilles, and then you talk about Fords? Their whole styling theme lately is big ugly-ass grilles with tons of faux chrome!

      The Corvette is about is sexy as they come

      The Corvette has, for a long time, been a complete exception to GM styling. During the C5 era, it was a very attractive car, at a time when the rest of GM's lineup looked hideous, and the C6 is even better looking, and GM's cars are still nothing special. I don't know what's been going on with the Corvette, but it seems to me that it's almost like it's produced by a separate company with minimal ties to the rest of GM. The even have their own, separate factory IIRC. And they certainly aren't sharing their designers with the rest of GM.

      Ford is also leading with technology.

      My rant was a complaint about American styling, not technology. American automakers have almost always been the first to market with new technologies, especially gadgets for the interior (like digital dashboards--remember those? there was even some Buick back in the 80s with some kind of touchscreen system.), but sometimes other technologies too, like variable-displacement engines (the 70s Cadillac 4-6-8, which was a complete disaster). The Japanese and Germans are more conservative in their engineering than the Americans, so they take longer to roll out new technologies, making sure they're going to be extremely reliable before taking a chance on customers having to experience any problems. Is Sync really reliable? And will it still be usable in 5 or 10 years, or will it be so obsolete that it won't work with any devices then? I don't know the answers to those questions, but that's what I'd worry about with anything in an American car. It frequently seems like American cars are designed for people who will own a car for 2, maybe 3 years, and then send it to the junkyard and buy a new one, whereas Japanese and German cars seem to be designed for people who keep a car for 10 years, and then sell it to someone else who keeps it for another 10 years.

    53. Re:Buy a Ford! by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Maybe that's because they have design that are more timeless, and don't need a complete revamp every 3 years to avoid looking dated.

      American cars always have faddish styling that looks old and dated in a few years.

    54. Re:Buy a Ford! by hairyfeet · · Score: 1

      They are beating Ford on price thanks to the UAW reaming them in the contracts. They should close the northern lines and move them south like the Japanese did. I have to agree with the 3rd generations, spot on there. My dad still has several for work trucks and they are built like tanks, easy to find parts for, even his fifteen year old F350 bucket truck still hums along 5 days a week and doesn't even smoke after carrying all that weight. Great trucks IMHO.

      If you are strictly wanting a good hauling truck with great gas mileage get the Ranger 4cyl, my cousin has one and he gets about 26 MPG and its a good little truck. That said I'll happily take the shittier gas mileage for the Vulcan V6. I'd gladly put that motor in the same league as the old Dodge 318 or the classic Chevy 350, it is just a damned well built motor. Doesn't matter how cold or hot it gets here, she always is ready to go, never lugs even when loaded to capacity while climbing steep hills, it is one of the quietest and least fussy engines I've ever had the pleasure to own. If you run across one in good shape I wouldn't hesitate to buy it, talking to guys online going 300k on a Vulcan without a rebuild isn't even considered a big deal.

      Its weird that you are finding Rangers expensive, must be the area. Here in AR we find really nice Rangers in the 2K range all day long. Mine I really couldn't turn down because it looked and run like the day it rolled off the floor, 99 Ranger complete with a really nice Sony MP3/CD, after market light kit and bed liner for only $2200. I would have liked to get one for my oldest who had just started college, but my dad ran into a sweetheart 2000 S10 in midnight blue with all the extras for just $1800. He just changed out the front ball joints and slapped a new set of tires all around and it looks and drives like it just rolled out the showroom. Hell we couldn't even find a scratch on the paint!

      So I don't know where you're at but it might be cheaper to come down here and just drive it home. I have a couple of buddies that actually make a decent living doing that, classic cars and trucks are really cheap here for really nice rides, so they just turn around and sell them on the coasts. They said there a classic El Camino or tricked out Ranger can easily sell for $20k+, and here you can buy even classic 60s wheels for less than $5k. So it might be worth it just to make a mini vacation out of it, maybe see Branson and some of the other sights, and then just drive your new ride home. Hell I can name off a dozen classics, going back to a beautiful 51 Ford, and the most expensive is $7900 for a mint state. You just can't get cheaper rides. Good luck!

      --
      ACs don't waste your time replying, your posts are never seen by me.
    55. Re:Buy a Ford! by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      As I said to the other guy, they seem to aim for design that is more timeless, instead of looking for the latest fad.

      Also, as for US vs Europe perception, part of that probably comes from Mercedes not actually importing any of their cheaper models here, only the expensive ones. They keep all their experimental stuff over there.

    56. Re:Buy a Ford! by afidel · · Score: 1

      RS 0-60 5.9s, Taurus SHO 5.2s

      Now the RS definitely has better handling, .9g vs .8g but it's not a little tuner car either so the better comparison would be with something like the Jaguar XF with a .82 or the Mercedes E550 with .81. A full size car is never going to be thrown around as much as a little tuner mobile but they can still be great fun to drive.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    57. Re:Buy a Ford! by jawtheshark · · Score: 1

      Yes, me and the other guy understand that: timeless design. Thing is "timeless" design is exactly that. Not much design at all. Once it's set, you can't change much. This means there isn't much "work" for a designer. For a designer it's a very frustrating (but challenging) position to work for these manufacturer.

      Car brands with designs that suck don't gain much by hiring the designers responsible for "timeless design". They first need the designers that find that timeless design (which does mean radical change from the existing brand) and then, just then, revert to the design philosophy that the Big Three Germans employ.

      --
      Ahhh...the great dumpster continuum. Many a free computer will be found there. -- sowth (748135)
    58. Re:Buy a Ford! by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      I've noticed that California is bleeding classic "gas guzzlers" left and right right now. Buddy just picked up a '91 1 ton Suburban for $1200, not a scratch on the body and the odometer at 58k.

      Where I'm at (Black Hills, SD), "outdoor/offroading" is fairly popular. Most of the Rangers I see, and half the Jeeps/80s Broncos/80s Blazers are lifted with mudders. A day with decent weather during the early spring and it's like an off-road parade through town.

      The used vehicle market is pretty aggressive out here because of the economy (nobody's buying new stuff), so things are a bit picked over. Seeing poorly maintained minivans for sale with 200k+ miles @ $2k isn't uncommon, and the local dealerships gouge people similarly - so people tend to go elsewhere to pick up used stuff. (5 to 4 hours to Denver or Sioux Falls saves you 30-50%).

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    59. Re:Buy a Ford! by afidel · · Score: 1

      Yeah I want the 2.0 in the Escape though what I *really* want is the Euro 2.0 diesel so it would have enough torque for 4x4 with decent fuel economy. Though to be honest they are targeting the best vehicles for the first wave of ecoboost engines, replacing V8's with V6's in larger vehicles will do a lot more for CAFE than replacing small V6's with I4's.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    60. Re:Buy a Ford! by DigiTechGuy · · Score: 1

      Wrong. The EPA and NHTSA will not allow those cars made for European markets in the States.They do not meet ridiculous US safety mandates (free market and customer choice be damned) and they do not meet EPA emissions mandates. To modify the vehicles to meet safety and emissions standards would be ridiculously expensive. The emissions part wouldn't be terrible, a few tweaks here and there, lose 10-20 MPG, and emissions are met, but safety involves extensive redesign if the vehicle wasn't originally designed with both markets in mind.

      Basically, the the time the car would be legal for sale in the States, it would no longer make sense. It would be a ridiculously expensive subcompact that gets mediocre mileage... Basically waht we have plenty of now.

      For comparison, a compact car from the early 60s, a Falcon with a 144 cubic inch six cylinder and 3 speed manual could get over 30 MPG on the highway. I know, I used to have one. That car was large by current econobox standards, and had a large engine by current econobox standards, but without all the safety and emissions mandates it was possible to make a cheap and simple car that delivered great fuel economy and was reliable and easy to maintain. How come we don't see any new cars in that price range and size getting significantly better MPG? Thank the EPA and NHTSA for that.

    61. Re:Buy a Ford! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      the ONLY ford car made that get's decent gas mileage is the ford fiesta

      Would you please stop putting an apostrophe in gets?

    62. Re:Buy a Ford! by John+Betonschaar · · Score: 1

      I think you could turn this into a pretty interesting philosophical discussion about design, and what 'great design' in a product such as a car means: timeless (so you don't have to change it), or mercurial (adapting to current trends and fashion). I'm not sure either one is 'better' or 'right', but for me, great design involves taking risks, creating something that distinguishes itself from competitors, and appeals to your target audience. Mercedes already settled on a design that works well for them, and they stick with it, which is good for them. That doesn't make them the prime example of a car manufacturer that is known for their great design though.

      Personally, I'm a really big fan of Peugeots (French cars) from 5 to 20 years back. I don't like the current models, the 7 and 8 series, since they are simply copying both themselves and the competition now, but if you go back to the 4 series (especially the 404 and 504), the 5 series (especially the 205) and the 6 series (especially the 206, 306 and the -in my opinion- best looking Peugeot ever made: the 406 coupe), you'll see that every generation introduces completely different design cues, yet all of the cars I mentioned have designs that are timeless. You might not like them (taste is subjective), but except for maybe the 4 series, none of these cars look extremely dated. That's what makes good design for me.

    63. Re:Buy a Ford! by hairyfeet · · Score: 1

      Ouch. We can say the same thing about Branson MO and anything sporty. There if it looks nice it'll go for $5k+ even if it is smoking and the drivetrain is shot. Just crazy, which is why most just come down here to shop. here the only thing expensive is what we call the "Doctor's rides" the Lincoln, new Caddys, Hummers. Everything else is dirt cheap.

      Hell it ain't a bad drive between here and SD, I rode a truck up to that area a few times as a teen, nice country between here and there. If you want to save yourself what sounds like several thousand you ought to just hop a plane to LR airport and drive one home. We have what we call "Car Heaven" which is a straight freeway strip that goes almost 30 miles from the LR airport up through Cabot in a straight line with NOTHING but new and used car lots as far as the eye can see. Because they move so many rides the dealers aren't shady either, and will be happy to tell you what if anything is wrong with a ride in the hope you'll come back.

      Like I said you can take your pick of dozens of small trucks and cars in the 2k-4k range, just depends on what year you want and how many extras it is sporting. Mine is electric everything with all the option packs and was just $2200. Full size will cost you an extra 1k, and classic sports cars and trucks can be had for less than $6k in great shape all day long. And the nice thing is because our drivers are nearly always "freeway commuters" you don't get the vehicles dogged out like in a lot of places, and since there is less than a week of snow a year no road salt damage either. Makes for great used vehicles with no rust! And vans are so cheap they practically give them away. A friend just sold a nice 98 mini van that purred like a kitten and looked sharp for $1500, they just ain't worth much here.

      But if you ever decide to come on down, give me a holler and I'll be happy to give ya the cook's tour. I bet we wouldn't even have to leave the strip to find you a real sweetheart. With so many new lots side by side they get really aggressive on trade ins and then let them go for a loss to make room on their lots. And because it is a working man's town the Ranger and S10 is cheap and plentiful. Hell I think half the trucks in my apt building lot right now are Rangers, everybody has one because they are so cheap and abundant. The only thing you can't really find around here is Jap rides except for the little Toyota 4 door "wife cars", as everyone else drive American trucks. Say what you want about the south, but this here is truck country! Good Luck!

      --
      ACs don't waste your time replying, your posts are never seen by me.
    64. Re:Buy a Ford! by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      I think you could turn this into a pretty interesting philosophical discussion about design, and what 'great design' in a product such as a car means: timeless (so you don't have to change it), or mercurial (adapting to current trends and fashion). I'm not sure either one is 'better' or 'right', but for me, great design involves taking risks, creating something that distinguishes itself from competitors, and appeals to your target audience.

      Timeless design doesn't start out "timeless", it becomes that after it's invented, and people recognize it as such. In short, it was always a good design. There's many instances of such design, for instance in architecture. Take a look at buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, nearly a century ago. They still look modern today, but at the time they were designed, they were cutting-edge. Now, look at just about any building designed in the 70s. They all look horrible now.

      Same goes with cars. Lots of people still cherish the 50s style cars like the iconic Bel Air. No, they probably wouldn't buy a new car that looks just like that, but not many people think "what a butt-ugly car!" when they see a "classic" car like this drive by. But drive by them in an AMC Gremlin and that's exactly what they'll think, though at the time there were apparently a sizeable number of people who actually liked the Gremlin's design.

      Apparently, Mercedes has stumbled upon some design cues that make their cars look good, and they don't need to keep chasing after fads, and buyers don't have to worry that their car is going to look "dated" and "ugly" in a few years when fads have changed. This, to me, is good design. There's lots of design (like, again, in architecture) that's very faddish, and really just smacks of some designer/architect trying out something totally new on a whim, that to his little mind looks great, but to most other people just looks like crap. I can point to countless examples of modern architecture that fit this description; some architect designs and builds a single house with some wacky new design, and that's the end of it because no one else likes it. But there's been examples of other architects coming up with something new, and that style (or parts of it) being adopted by many afterwards (like Wright).

      You might not like them (taste is subjective), but except for maybe the 4 series, none of these cars look extremely dated. That's what makes good design for me.

      Exactly. If you like a design one year, and five years later it turns your stomach, it wasn't a good design. If it still looks good after 5, 10, 20 years (though you might like a few little changes to adopt new technologies or some newer minor styling cues), that's good design.

    65. Re:Buy a Ford! by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      The majority of all engine wear comes during start/warming of an engine, but only because its when oil pressure doesn't exist and lubrication has gone elsewhere.

      In this situation, it doesn't apply because the engine has been freshly lubricated and oil lines are likely still highly pressurized.

      The vast majority of engines don't have any pressure in the oil lines when the system is not running. You're going to need an electric oil pump that spins up before the starter to prevent starter wear, or an accumulator for oil storage, and a valve to release it pre-starting.

      That's only true for diesel engines which require a thermal element to start.

      Actually some of the newer, smaller diesels don't have glows at all.

      The catalytic converter does need to maintain a specific temperature range to properly function. This, however, can be addressed by the use of a heating elements (to maintain a temp - even perhaps outside of limits) and/or periodic engine starts (to maintain limits).

      The cat gets too hot to heat with an element. The heated emission system components are O2 sensors; they don't function properly outside of their temperature range, so the new ones are heated so that they begin working sooner. You can heat cats by injecting them with fuel, but that causes all kinds of additional problems.

      I no longer remember the exact number, but idle consumption in the US alone is a considerable amount of fuel. So reduction of this consumption is a worthy goal and should not be hand waved and ignored.

      The best way to reduce it would be to avoid situations which have a lot of people sitting in traffic for long periods.

      By almost entirely doing away with the phase which creates a disproportionate amount of pollution, the increase in air quality is likely to be disproportionately profound.

      In stop-and-go traffic the system will not engage. In situations where you're sitting in traffic and not moving for long periods, efficiency is out the window entirely, and it's time to start looking at moving.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    66. Re:Buy a Ford! by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      How come we don't see any new cars in that price range and size getting significantly better MPG? Thank the EPA and NHTSA for that.

      The end result of not controlling emissions is bleeding lungs for all. Think about these things.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    67. Re:Buy a Ford! by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      the design philosophy that the Big Three Germans employ.

      The thing about that is that Germans occasionally pushed style. For example the W126 S-class which convinced the world that Eurostyle meant smoothed/blended. People kept buying S-class even though the look changed. They changed it again with W140 and people KEPT buying it.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    68. Re:Buy a Ford! by DigiTechGuy · · Score: 1

      In a free country with a free market, that's irrelevant. Shame no such thing exists anymore.

      But think of it this way, a vehicle with minimal emissions controls that gets an additional 15-20 MPG uses less fuel. Less pollution from manufacturing and transporting that fuel. Perhaps more parts per million come out the exhaust, but there are fewer millions coming out the exhaust per mile traveled, and thus potentially less net pollution per mile than a lower emission vehicle that gets relatively poor fuel mileage.

    69. Re:Buy a Ford! by drinkypoo · · Score: 1

      In a free country with a free market, that's irrelevant. Shame no such thing exists anymore.

      No such thing has ever existed, and it's not a shame.

      --
      "You're right," Fisheye says. "I should have set it on 'whip' or 'chop.'"
    70. Re:Buy a Ford! by DigiTechGuy · · Score: 1

      Do what you're told, be a good little tax paying slave and don't rock the boat...

  2. Cold weather by E-Sabbath · · Score: 5, Interesting

    How does this system behave in cold weather? Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

    1. Re:Cold weather by lyml · · Score: 5, Informative

      Well we've been using it for a while in Sweden and it's pretty cold up here. No problems so far.

    2. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      It doesn't turn off the accessories, so the heater will still work. And engines don't really have to be warmed up more than a few seconds before you start driving.

    3. Re:Cold weather by gandhi_2 · · Score: 2

      The Prius has been doing just fine since the early 2000s.

      And modern engines need no more than 30 seconds of idling to be "warmed up" for driving.

    4. Re:Cold weather by screwzloos · · Score: 1

      It wouldn't behave in cold weather. It would have to be an option that could be disabled.

      Depending on how cold the climate is, it might even be better for the car to sit and idle for a little while before taking off. Oil and transmission fluid don't lubricate terribly well below 0F - even the low viscosity flavors. This is especially true when the vehicle has been sitting for several hours. If it's cold enough, there might be -no- oil on the cylinder walls. Starting the engine cold and immediately taking off like that would damage the engine.

    5. Re:Cold weather by DerekLyons · · Score: 2

      Just because the engine is 'warm enough to drive' doesn't mean the car is - my car takes 5-8 mins of running before the heater is warm enough to prevent my breath from causing condensation on the windshield.

    6. Re:Cold weather by rolfwind · · Score: 1

      And modern engines need no more than 30 seconds of idling to be "warmed up" for driving."

      My 2007 Honda Civic may need 30 seconds for the engine to be ready to pull loads, but in 20 degree fahrenheit weather, it needs 12 minutes at least or I'll be driving around with fogged up glass. (Extremely dangerous).

      Although I would like tips to reduce that somehow.

    7. Re:Cold weather by icebike · · Score: 1, Insightful

      It doesn't turn off the accessories, so the heater will still work.

      You DO know how a Heater works, don't you?

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    8. Re:Cold weather by tompaulco · · Score: 2

      In all cars I have driven, the "heater" uses the heat generated by the engine and transferred to the radiator fluid. Then there is a radiator across which air is blown to heat the inside of the vehicle. The amount of radiator fluid in the heater core at any one time is not very much. If the engine is not running, the heater will not remain warm for long.
      On the flip side, the Air conditioner compressor is belt driven and will definitely not do anything if the car is not running. On these new cars, will the heater and AC both be completely electric? This would be very inefficient.

      --
      If you are not allowed to question your government then the government has answered your question.
    9. Re:Cold weather by McGiraf · · Score: 2

      You know how fast a big block of metal cools down don't you? ;)

    10. Re:Cold weather by publiclurker · · Score: 1

      How do YOU think they work? I doubt the cooling system would loose all that much heat through the heater core at a stoplight.

    11. Re:Cold weather by gandhi_2 · · Score: 1

      Hmmm. Roll down all the windows?

    12. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Use the defroster. Max fan setting, air conditioning on (for dehumidification), and heat at maximum.

      20 degree farenheit weather is NOT that cold -- you shouldn't need to warm the car up at all in that circumstance.

    13. Re:Cold weather by N1EY · · Score: 1

      Car Engines are tight. This increases efficiency. Yet it takes a while for them to get moving. Ford engines such at the 4.6l need to warm up. I know from experience. These engines use 5W-20. So I think that this also indicates they are tighter than some of the Chevy, which use 10-30.

    14. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Ages ago I had a problem with my Escort's radiator, in the middle of winter, on a freeway. I was able to drive for short distances and then had to pull over before the engine overheated. It cooled off fairly rapidly once sitting there idling.

    15. Re:Cold weather by whoever57 · · Score: 1

      And modern engines need no more than 30 seconds of idling to be "warmed up" for driving.

      But what about the catalytic converter -- that has to be hot before it does anything and I don't think that 30 seconds of running gets it anywhere near hot enough.

      --
      The real "Libtards" are the Libertarians!
    16. Re:Cold weather by icebike · · Score: 2

      Something has to pump the water around. Your heater core has about 30 seconds of heat in it without hot water coming in.

      Stoplight is your BEST case scenario. But even that would save next to nothing, because of re-start waste after only 30 seconds.

      Traffic Jam rush hour is far more typical scenario, where real saving could be found.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    17. Re:Cold weather by Shuntros · · Score: 5, Informative

      It behaves perfectly well in cold weather. I have a 2.0L/200bhp diesel BMW in the UK where it's been sub-zero (that's on the rest-of-the-world temperature scale) for the last month. A number of pre-requisites have to be met for the car to commence the start-stop behaviour, such as the engine having warmed up sufficiently, battery charged etc.. There's also a button on the dash to disable it as it can get a little annoying during rush hour due to frequent stopping in heavy traffic. It took a couple of weeks to get used to, but it now feels strange to sit at the lights with the engine running. It's very fast aswell; kills the engine below 5mph when the car is in neutral and clutch is out, then the moment you hit the clutch to pop her back in gear she fires up again, so quickly that it's almost impossible to get your foot on the gas before she's running.

      Not sure how they plan to implement it for cars which run in "stupid mode" (automatic transmission); presume it'll crank it when you take your foot off the brake to drive off.

      BMW specifically recommend NOT warming the car up for long periods before driving off; it's no longer necessary due to today's technology, nicosil-plated cylinders etc...

    18. Re:Cold weather by infinite9 · · Score: 1

      How does this system behave in cold weather? Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

      This feature will flop in florida et al. No engine, no a/c.

      --
      Disconnect your television. Do your own research. Draw your own conclusions. They're probably lying. Don't be a sheep.
    19. Re:Cold weather by icebike · · Score: 1

      You know how fast heat from that block gets to your heater core with the water pump shut down don't you?

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    20. Re:Cold weather by Matimus · · Score: 1

      My guess is that in a modern vehicle will do whatever is necessary to perform the enabled functions. Turn on the car, turn up the heat and the computer will run the engine if that is necessary. Once the car is up to the specified temperature the engine will shut off again to preserve power. I suppose they could have missed this use case, but that seems unlikely.

      --
      GENERATION 25: The first time you see this, copy it into your sig on any forum and add 1 to the generation. Social exper
    21. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My BMW 318 has the stop-start system - in cold weather, the engine stays on; it only turns off once the engine's warm enough. It also stays on if the heater is on full-blast, so basically in winter it doesn't kick in - but in summer, you notice the difference in the fuel bills.

    22. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You know how a water pump can be driven by an auxiliary electrical motor don't you?

    23. Re:Cold weather by GWBasic · · Score: 4, Insightful

      My 2003 Civic Hybrid has this feature. The engine doesn't stop in cold weather.

    24. Re:Cold weather by garcia · · Score: 1

      My car battery dies just about every winter because it's driven 1.5 miles to the transit station and 1.5 miles back. That type of driving takes a serious toll on a battery when the temps hover around a balmy -22F for several weeks a year. Will this restart the engine from the battery? If so, will Ford replace it under warranty for having a feature included for those of us who don't idle our cars ever because we take mass transit?

    25. Re:Cold weather by bob65 · · Score: 1

      Use the defroster. Max fan setting, air conditioning on (for dehumidification), and heat at maximum.

      Not sure if there's a joke there I didn't get. I think the parent was looking for slightly more insightful advice than "use the defroster".

      I've found that cleaning the inside of the windshield helps -- oils/gases from the interior plastics can produce a coating that makes it easier for the windshield to fog up.

      Even if you parked outside overnight, 12 minutes to defog seems a bit long for 20F (about -6C). Although unlikely, maybe you want to check if there is water leaking into the interior? That would definitely cause some bad fogging (and problems defogging).

    26. Re:Cold weather by kryptKnight · · Score: 1
      --
      Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored. -Aldous Huxley
    27. Re:Cold weather by Rob+the+Bold · · Score: 1

      How does this system behave in cold weather? Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

      I just drove my Uncle's Prius in 10F (~-12C) weather, and it restarts just fine. Given that Ford obviously knows how that works, I'd think there wouldn't be much of a problem. But yeah, if you need the heater, it's gonna run more. The Prius did that, so again, Ford has the advantage of seeing a problem already solved and starting from there. I know I'm more confident in being able to solve a problem if someone else did it first.

      --
      I am not a crackpot.
    28. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Are you familiar with Wind Chill and Exposure?

    29. Re:Cold weather by sco08y · · Score: 1

      It doesn't turn off the accessories, so the heater will still work.

      You DO know how a Heater works, don't you?

      For those who don't or (like me) kinda sorta do.

    30. Re:Cold weather by kryptKnight · · Score: 1

      http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2374756,00.asp

      The coolant pump is electric so that it can be ket running when the engine is off. The 100C coolant that runs through the heating coil doesn't cool significantly in the time you would spend at a traffic light.

      --
      Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored. -Aldous Huxley
    31. Re:Cold weather by sumdumass · · Score: 1

      Not that cold? It's 12 degrees below freezing which is why he has the problem in the first place.

      I'm not sure you are understanding the situation or perhaps you got your F and C mixed up. And yes, I'm used to 20 degree C too. In the smaller compact cars, this can be an issue where it's not as much as one in the larger cars where the windshield is further from the people sitting in it.

    32. Re:Cold weather by Rob+the+Bold · · Score: 1

      You know how fast a big block of metal cools down don't you? ;)

      Heats up slowly, too.

      --
      I am not a crackpot.
    33. Re:Cold weather by sumdumass · · Score: 1

      Lol.. That should be 20 degree F too. I guess I should have previewed the buttons when clicking to continue editing.

    34. Re:Cold weather by Gordonjcp · · Score: 1

      It doesn't matter anyway; catalytic converters don't clean up car exhaust until you've been running at a fairly high power setting for several minutes. On the motorway when you're piling on the coal they work just great but around town they make emissions far worse.

    35. Re:Cold weather by Rob+the+Bold · · Score: 1, Funny

      You know how a water pump can be driven by an auxiliary electrical motor don't you?

      Can be, sure. But we're talking Ford. Water pumps have never been their strong suit. (Owned many a Ford, generally pleased, but water pumps are just not so good. My old dealer had a display case of consumables -- oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, water pumps -- next to the parts department. Someone had a sense of humor.)

      --
      I am not a crackpot.
    36. Re:Cold weather by belmolis · · Score: 2

      Not to mention the time to melt the ice on the windshield if you live where I do.

    37. Re:Cold weather by dkf · · Score: 1

      This feature will flop in florida et al. No engine, no a/c.

      Bet whether the engine is going will depend on the load on the overall system. If the A/C is on full, the load will be enough to justify the engine being on (well, at least a lot of the time; that'll depend on a bunch of other factors such as how well insulated the passenger compartment is and what size of battery is fitted).

      --
      "Little does he know, but there is no 'I' in 'Idiot'!"
    38. Re:Cold weather by icebike · · Score: 1

      Good luck getting home after an hour in stop and go traffic depleting your battery continuously running a pump, on top of 8 or 12 restarts per mile.

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    39. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Modern cars dump extra fuel to get the cat warmed up ASAP.

    40. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Can be, sure. But we're talking Ford.

      Yeah, so can I have that in terms of a car analogy, then? :)

    41. Re:Cold weather by belmolis · · Score: 1

      Wear a mask that covers your mouth and nose and breathe through your nose as much as possible. Seriously. It is of course a good idea to get the defrost going properly, but if you're in a rush or it isn't working well, you can reduce the amount of water vapor that you exhale.

    42. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      A) Get a bigger battery (Look for a high number of cranking amps and cold cranking amps, or get a deep cycle/marine battery.)
      B) Get a better alternator.
      C) Put a trickle charger on the battery at night.

      Three easy fixes for not driving your vehicle the way it was designed. Although frankly it sounds like your charging system isnt working properly.

      P.S. I know many auto parts places like autozone or advanced auto, will test your battery and alternator, either on the car or off. They will even give your battery a good charge overnight and retest in the morning for free. Many others will do so also, just call and ask.

    43. Re:Cold weather by sjames · · Score: 1

      There's little doubt the heater would cool off some, but even at a long traffic light it's not like the car will freeze over while you wait. Keep in mind, there will still be convection and the water in the heater core will still be in direct contact with the water in the rest of the cooling system.

      If that's not enough, an electric water pump could solve it.

    44. Re:Cold weather by belmolis · · Score: 1

      Many vehicles just won't charge up the battery if driven that way in really cold weather. I've sometimes had to make a point of taking mine for a longer drive to charge up the battery. One alternative might be walking some or all of the time. Another is to buy a battery charger and charge your vehicle from house current at night.

    45. Re:Cold weather by Soft+Cosmic+Rusk · · Score: 1

      That's not possible where I live. The windows are frozen in place and cannot be opened for the first 5-10 minutes.

    46. Re:Cold weather by screwzloos · · Score: 1

      You and I are not talking about the same kind of cold. 0C is not cold enough to matter.

      -40C is 'start it up and idle for a while' territory. Even if it's a diesel, even if it's a small engine, even if it's European built. If nothing else, your turbo would not last long if you took the car to highway speeds while it was still that cold.

      Not to mention that it would also be -40 in the cab. That has its own set of problems.

    47. Re:Cold weather by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      Advice: Move.

      Alt: Get an air cooled bug.

      You'll get used to using an ice scraper to keep a small patch of windshield clear of ice.

      That and keeping the windows down in the extreme cold to vent humid air outside the car.

      Finnish army surplus arctic weather coats aren't that hard to come by.

      I keep mine around for those rare cases when I consider moving back to the arctic tundra.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    48. Re:Cold weather by HeLLFiRe1151 · · Score: 1

      Not to mention the extra wear and tear on an engine starting so many times a day.

      --
      I've got 101 mod points and you can't have them!
    49. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You missed the part where he said "A number of pre-requisites have to be met for the car to commence the start-stop behaviour". Do you really think they would create these cars without adding a few lines of code? It's a no brainer since cars already have a thermometer in the engine.

    50. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What's the effect on battery life?

      I'd almost prefer they keep at least one cylinder firing just for charging the battery and keeping the heater going (etc).
      ...then again, I'd really prefer an EV with decent range (>=150miles) and AWD (without being a damn SUV).

    51. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      You know how this whole "You know... don't you?" thing is getting slightly retarded at this point, don't you?

    52. Re:Cold weather by Charliemopps · · Score: 1

      um... the engines already hot... since it's been running... so, unless your at the stoplight for 30min and it's 30 bellow out, I don't see it being a problem. Also, it would be pretty easy for them to include a thermostat in the system that re-heats the engine when it drops too low.

    53. Re:Cold weather by shutdown+-p+now · · Score: 1

      When you park the car for more than a few minutes, leave one of the windows open just slightly.

    54. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well, I don't know about Honda, but this article's about Ford, so maybe drive a Pinto? It's hard to ice up when you're on fire.

      To speed up the process, be sure to put Firestone tires on it.

    55. Re:Cold weather by Mr+Z · · Score: 1

      Your concern has less to do with the engine as it does everything in the passenger compartment. In my case, the temp gauge lifts off the peg within a minute, usually, and the heater starts putting out warm air shortly thereafter. My car doesn't get comfortable for a few minutes, though, because of the heat capacity of the interior.

      That's really an orthogonal problem to whether the car stops the engine at longish red lights. If there's sufficient heat stored up in the coolant, the heater can continue to transfer that to the passenger compartment. And, you could moot the whole point if the feature has a "warmup" program that forces the engine to run for the first 5 - 10 minutes. You probably want that anyway just to make sure you fully heat up the exhaust path, both to get the catalyst going in the catalytic converter and to prevent water vapor in the exhaust from condensing and rusting out your muffler. Most cars I've driven already have a "cold idle" that raises the idle speed for the first few minutes the car is running. This would be a natural extension of that existing behavior.

      I'm not sure why everyone thinks that their car will be narcoleptic straight out of the gate.

      On a separate note, though, I would want an override for this feature if my car has trouble starting. But, just like my traction control override, I'd almost never enable it.

    56. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      No problems, except for ..

      ..RADICAL FEMINISM!

    57. Re:Cold weather by Shikaku · · Score: 3, Funny

      Sometimes radical feminism has great benefits.

      See: dominatrices.

    58. Re:Cold weather by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      And modern engines need no more than 30 seconds of idling to be "warmed up" for driving."

      My 2007 Honda Civic may need 30 seconds for the engine to be ready to pull loads, but in 20 degree fahrenheit weather, it needs 12 minutes at least or I'll be driving around with fogged up glass. (Extremely dangerous).

      Although I would like tips to reduce that somehow.

      Glue a loop of nichrome wire to your glasses and run current through them.

    59. Re:Cold weather by ChrisMaple · · Score: 1

      As long as there is water circulating through the heater core, many engines can be adequately cooled by running the heater full blast.

      --
      Contribute to civilization: ari.aynrand.org/donate
    60. Re:Cold weather by StikyPad · · Score: 1

      Maybe you're thinking of 20 degrees Celsius? 20F is about -6C.

      At any rate, turning off the engine is not a particularly good idea. Most engine wear occurs at startup when the oil is too cold to lubricate properly. The whole point of warming up the engine is to warm up the *oil* to reach its ideal viscosity. You're not getting as much wear on a newer engines with better machining than a 30+ yr old car, but you're still getting far more at cold temps than at operational temps.

      Second, idling uses very little fuel in the first place. Most cars consume around 0.2 Gallons Per Hour at idle, so if you idle for 30 minutes on a trip home (which is hopefully rather generous), you've saved 1/10th of a gallon. That's at the cost of inability to run climate control (certainly the compressor in an A/C which is belt-driven anyway), higher battery wear, and higher engine wear necessitating more frequent oil changes. If you idle for a total of 5 hours per tank (again, this should be an *extremely* generous estimate), you've saved 1 gallon, or ~50 gallons per year assuming you fill up once a week (I'm usually around once every other week), so around $150-$200/yr. Yes, this translates to large savings for all the cars on the road, but savings in one area (fuel consumption) comes at a costs in other, equally or more expensive areas (premature parts/engine failure, more frequent oil changes, etc). Replacing a starter used to be pretty damn simple -- I've done it in parking lots on older cars when the teeth wore out -- but these days it's a royal pain in the ass, and you'll easily eat up any savings, especially if you're paying a mechanic. And your starter will wear out many times faster if you're stopping and starting the engine throughout your trip. It seems like, at best, this will be trading 6 of one for a half dozen of the other -- the costs will negate the benefits -- and at worst, it could result in a substantial increase in energy consumption (recycling old parts) which outweighs the fuel savings. In short, this sounds like a feel-good measure some politician dreamed up.

    61. Re:Cold weather by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      I wish we could have a separate article for people from very (hot|cold) climates to explain why this won't work for them.

      Then we can discuss the technology.

    62. Re:Cold weather by NekSnappa · · Score: 1

      I'm not sure about Fords system, but others I've read about use a flywheel system that restarts the engine.

      --
      I want to shoot the messenger!
    63. Re:Cold weather by MichaelSmith · · Score: 1

      My wife recently bought a VW Jetta. Very nice. 1.4 litre engine, DSG transmission. Very expensive to run and I think she now wishes she hadn't bought it. We did look at the civic hybrid and it would have saved us a lot of money in running costs.

    64. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sweden really isn't cold that's the thing. The extreme north gets extended periods of cold, otherwise you're still in the balmy -teens. Central Canada and Quebec, along with the maritimes regularly sees winter temperature averages in the -30's to -40's, with odd blasts of -50's. Not counting the windchill, that really doesn't even touch on the snow. Where you can see 100+cm in one day.

    65. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How does this system behave in cold weather? Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

      Unless your traffic lights last for half an hour at a time, I doubt the cabin would get cold enough to be at all uncomfortable even without the engine.

    66. Re:Cold weather by CAIMLAS · · Score: 0

      Seriously, you kid, right?

      A vehicle engine can't run on a single cylinder.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    67. Re:Cold weather by GWBasic · · Score: 1

      Well, I bought the car because it's smooth and quiet. Maintenance isn't as cheap as an ordinary car because its CVT transmission needs flushing every 6-12 months. In addition, it's hard to take the car anywhere but Honda if I'm doing anything other then an oil change, even though it's a "light" hybrid. This is the first car I've owned for 7 years, so I really can't compare it to anything else. I'm also going to be on the hook for about 2-3K worth of work so I can pass my CA smog test this summer. (First major repair out-of-warrenty)

      The nice thing about the car is that I can go about 400 miles on a single tank, or almost 500 when most of the trip is downhill. It's also nice knowing that my cost of operation isn't going to swing out of whack based on gas.

      That being said; if I really wanted the cheapest and most reliable Civic possible, I'd have bought the 5-speed LX instead of the hybrid. I'm happy to spend the extra money for something that's quiet and has a smoother ride.

    68. Re:Cold weather by garcia · · Score: 1

      Yeah, it's the first car I've ever had do this and it'll be the last. Mazda sucks.

    69. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How does this system behave in cold weather? Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

      This feature will flop in florida et al. No engine, no a/c.

      More and more new cars have electric A/C compressors these days. (It's more efficient than loading the engine). No reason cars with this feature wouldn't also have electric A/C.

    70. Re:Cold weather by reboot246 · · Score: 1

      Good luck keeping cool in a busy drive-thru at lunch on a 100 degree day.

      The vehicle I work out of idles nearly all day while creeping along at about 1.5 mph. In fact, I have to ride the brake to keep from going too fast down even a slight hill. We wouldn't buy one at any price.

    71. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How does this system behave in cold weather? Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

      This feature will flop in florida et al. No engine, no a/c.

      That's why they released this story in the winter. Everybody would know how bad this idea is if they read it right after coming back from lunch on a hot day.

    72. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      So use an electric pump, not a huge load on the car battery.

    73. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Why would it be inefficient?
      No belt slip, you can direct drive them.

    74. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      This morning that crap was freezing near instantly, I like to see when I drive.

    75. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      For those of us not living in the tropics, 0 C is a very warm winter day. Hell, it would be balmy compared to the outside temp right now where I am.

    76. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "battery tender", google it.

    77. Re:Cold weather by Capt.+Skinny · · Score: 1

      Or perhaps a separate article for the armchair automotive engineers, so the Ford engineers have a handy reference for everything they failed to consider before proposing such a system.

    78. Re:Cold weather by nblender · · Score: 1

      Yup, my diesel will cool down to near ambient temps if not run under load. If I'm stopped for more than a couple of minutes with the engine idling, the heater starts blowing cold... In stop/go traffic, I'll freeze before I get to work... I have a Webasto fuel burning heater which keeps me nice and toasty and at only .3 liters/hour...

    79. Re:Cold weather by tompaulco · · Score: 1

      Why would it be inefficient? No belt slip, you can direct drive them.
      Because you had to use belts to drive the not perfectly efficient alternator to charge up the not perfectly efficient battery and not perfectly efficiently store the energy until you need to use it to drive the motors for the AC or resistors for the heater. Not to mention you already have a big powerful engine there generating lots of excess power that could be used to run a small compressor, whereas an electric compressor of similar power would need quite a large and heavy additional motor. And since you already have a big hot engine generating lots of excess heat, it seems natural to try to use that energy instead of having another large box of heater coils to generate yet more heat.

      --
      If you are not allowed to question your government then the government has answered your question.
    80. Re:Cold weather by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      On the flip side, the Air conditioner compressor is belt driven and will definitely not do anything if the car is not running. On these new cars, will the heater and AC both be completely electric? This would be very inefficient.

      Wrong. Electric heaters are indeed horribly inefficient compared to just using waste heat from an ICE, but electric air conditioners are not (not any more than belt-driven ones). The only disadvantage an electric motor-driven compressor has over a belt-driven one is weight: the motor would weigh a few pounds. However, it would also have an advantage: you'd be able to optimize the compressor itself for the speed of the motor, instead of designing it to run decently at idle, and also not burn up when the engine is redlining. This would probably result in a smaller, lighter compressor, offsetting the extra weight of the electric motor. In addition, plumbing would be simplified, as you wouldn't be required to mount it on the side of the engine, but could put it anywhere in the engine bay, and probably have less piping length in the system.

      I'm pretty sure many new hybrid-electric vehicles like the Prius already use electric AC compressors.

      As for heating, one thing they could do is use the Centaur thermal system, which stores heated engine coolant in a container. It was designed to help cars warm up faster, but a smaller version would work great for this. Unfortunately, Centaur folded not long after they launched their product about a decade ago, but it shouldn't be too hard to buy up the patents and use the technology.

    81. Re:Cold weather by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      That's what electric-driven AC compressors are for.

    82. Re:Cold weather by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      Or take it for a 30-minute spin on the weekends.

    83. Re:Cold weather by E-Sabbath · · Score: 1

      Thank you! "Engine having warmed up sufficiently" is what I wanted to know. It's not just 'oh, stopped, kill the engine'. I was mostly concerned with 'It's 6 degrees F, and I need to just sit real quietly and wait for five minutes while the ice melts and the car heats up' kind of issues.

    84. Re:Cold weather by Grishnakh · · Score: 2

      What a wuss. Ever heard of a "winter jacket"? Or a "hat"? No wonder we're running out of oil: we insist on wearing short sleeves in subfreezing conditions and burning oil to change the environment to be comfortable, instead of just using the remarkable inventions created by prehistoric man, called "clothes".

    85. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You should turn the air conditioning on. No, seriously - turn the temperature dial to warm, but turn the A/C button on. Air conditioning will dry out the air and clear up your condensation problem pretty quickly.

      It may still be 5-8 minutes before you achieve a comfortable temperature, but you should be able to see through the windshield in under 1 minute.

    86. Re:Cold weather by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      That type of driving takes a serious toll on a battery in ANY weather, because you're not driving it long enough to recharge the battery. Car batteries aren't designed for deep-discharge. Either put a charger on it, or stop taking such short trips. Maybe you should trade in your car for a golf cart or a bicycle. Either of those would suit your needs much better.

    87. Re:Cold weather by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      In really cold climates, and particularly on diesel engines, it is quite common to have an auxiliary heater with its own fuel supply. This kind of system is very popular in air-cooled vehicles and in motor homes.

      Air conditioning is the elephant in the room for electric cars. Seems to not be a problem for hybrids though. At least, the people I know in Arizona who drive Priuses (Pria?) are satisfied.

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    88. Re:Cold weather by gnasher719 · · Score: 1

      My car battery dies just about every winter because it's driven 1.5 miles to the transit station and 1.5 miles back. That type of driving takes a serious toll on a battery when the temps hover around a balmy -22F for several weeks a year. Will this restart the engine from the battery? If so, will Ford replace it under warranty for having a feature included for those of us who don't idle our cars ever because we take mass transit?

      Posts like this one make me wonder who is reading slashdot. Everyone thinks they come up with a reason why this won't work. But everyone with a bit of engineering spirit inside their brain would instead come up with a list of problems, and a list of very simple engineering solutions. But please think about this yourself: What is the obvious engineering solution to handle the case of a person driving 1.5 miles in the winter, then parking their car for many hours, then driving another 1.5 miles, then parking again?

    89. Re:Cold weather by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      I wish they would put an addendum on articles like this, explaining to the idiot naysayers why their concerns are unjustified or even stupid.

      For all the people whining about A/C, the answer is simple: electric A/C compressors, just like the Prius and other hybrid vehicles have.

    90. Re:Cold weather by DuckDodgers · · Score: 1

      The system usually only operates once the engine is at a normal operating temperature, so it can shut off for a few seconds without affecting the way it heats the cabin in winter. If you take lots of short drives, it won't help you.

    91. Re:Cold weather by Bengie · · Score: 1

      it was -32c over here for a few weeks. finally ~-1c, but winter is just starting. Jan/Feb are the coldest months. I'm sure I'll be seeing -32c again.

    92. Re:Cold weather by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      The Prius does use an electric compressor, and I can attest to the fact that it worked well even on the hottest day in Phoenix AZ in anyone's living memory. Prius A/C systems have been retrofit by some pro/street racers... comfort at the track without giving up horsepower for it ;-)

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    93. Re:Cold weather by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      Condensation a couple of millimeters thick, that freezes in seconds, covering every glass surface of your vehicle including your mirrors. Drive like that, I dare you!

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    94. Re:Cold weather by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      >BMW specifically recommend NOT warming the car up for long periods before driving off; it's no longer necessary due to today's
      >technology, nicosil-plated cylinders etc...

      Right, and I think the idea is, idling while waiting for it to warm up leads to running it at below-optimal temperature for a relatively long time, while starting up and driving straight away puts a load on the engine which warms it up very rapidly. The amount of extra wear on the rings and bearings during those first few seconds is greatly exaggerated.

      This isn't just true with modern engines, it's also true with, say, a 1960s aircooled Porsche.

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    95. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Turn your air conditioner on.

      No, really.

      The cold is causing the humidity to condense on your windshield, but the real problem is that there is excess humidity - air conditioining will remove the humidity and eliminate the fogging.

      You can turn the temperature dial all the way to warm, just turn the vents to the windshield and the A/C on and you should be de-fogged and ready to drive in under a minute.

    96. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      So one bigger and better alternator, seems like it would be a wash. My little four banger does not make shit for heat, takes 10-20 minutes for me to get heat in the cabin this time of year.

      Seems like coils or burning fuel directly for heat would be better.

    97. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Even with a parka and gloves plus a hat all exposed skin is stinging with cold. Is it legal to drive in my ski-mask and goggles?

    98. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Do what we did when I lived in alaska, in block heater. You knock out the ice-plug in the block and pop it in. Sucks that you have to keep the car plugged in though.

    99. Re:Cold weather by Sir_Sri · · Score: 1

      -50 is very rare in anywhere inhabited. In the last 30 years the coldest I've been in the Windsor - Fredericton corridor (Toronto, montreal, quebec city etc.) was about -40 with windchill, and that was back in I think 2003/2004, typically we don't see much below -30.

      Granted, if you car dies any time it happens to be -40 around here it could be a fairly serious problem.

      Obviously that's in a celsius not that other unit of measure that died a few decades ago.

    100. Re:Cold weather by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Why would it not be legal to drive with a ski mask or balaclava?

      Maybe you should move south if you hate it so much...

    101. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Besides being able to run an electric powered A/C unit on battery/regenerative braking energy for a while while stopped, A/C is generally cycling off and on while you drive. If the off cycle coincides with the engine stopping, you may not even need to run the A/C before the engine is running again.

    102. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not really.

      You do not HAVE to use lead acid batteries in the car. Move to Li-ion, then the entire electric load can be managed by the car battery.

    103. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Also do like the prius, the alternator and starter are the same unit directly coupled to the crankshaft. NO FUCKING BELTS. I have no idea why cars use belts and brushed motors, but it needs to stop.

    104. Re:Cold weather by Hamsterdan · · Score: 1

      ???

      The compressor can be driven by an electric source. (As it already is in Hybrid vehicles and many modern gas-only vehicles)

      --
      I've got better things to do tonight than die.
    105. Re:Cold weather by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      I hate the heat, I like the cold. Going numb is distracting though, and distracted driving is a no no.

      I would imagine the ski-goggles are not legal since they remove all my peripheral vision. I only wanted to point out that heat is not just used by those driving to work in t-shirts and shorts.

    106. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Seriously, you kid, right?

      Nope, just speaking in ignorance :)

      How many cylinders are needed?
      How about 4, 6, or 8 cylinder engines?
      What about turbo or supercharged engines?
      Would there be a difference between manual and automatic? (would the flywheel help?)

      I figured that if a naturally aspirated 4-banger can make >150hp, that it'd still have enough to maintain "idle" with only one cylinder.

    107. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      continuously variable transmission transmission?

    108. Re:Cold weather by DerekLyons · · Score: 0

      No, it's called "safety" - because when the engine is not warm enough to run the defroster, then my breath condenses on the windshield. Grow the fuck up you ignorant moron.

    109. Re:Cold weather by treeves · · Score: 1

      That's the only repair I had to do on a '96 Mercury Mystique (=Ford Contour or Mondeo outside US) in 100,000 miles - replace the water pump.

      --
      ...the future crusty old bastards are already drinking the Kool-Aid.
    110. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Seriously, you kid, right? Nope, just speaking in ignorance :) How many cylinders are needed?

      All of them. That is to say, modern combustion engines need all the cylinders to move in order to function. You can stop firing some of them, but that just makes the remaining work harder and wastes fuel.

    111. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      If the starter is sized properly, it doesn't burn out from frequent starts. Also, the engine wouldn't have enough time for the oil to sink back to the sump between stops and starts, so lubrication isn't an issue. Most hybrids handle it just fine (but then again, they use one of the electric motors as a starter to turn the crankshaft, such as MG1 in the Prius/Camry Hybrid/Highlander Hybrid).

    112. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      The heater in our Camry Hybrid and our Prius is from the engine coolant, while the AC is from an electric compressor so as to be able to run while the engine is off. My Tesla is electric for both heater and AC, and seems to get a respectable ~260 miles to a charge.

    113. Re:Cold weather by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Use the A/C, you ignorant moron. You live in the cold and you don't know how to prevent condensation? Stupid.

    114. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      Correct. The smaller electric motor, MG1, serves as the starter in the Toyota hybrid systems.

      Also, I agree. Belts fucking suck.

    115. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      I was looking at retrofitting Toyota's electric compressor on my 2008 Tundra, but at $900 (for the compressor alone), the retrofit is only for some use cases.

    116. Re:Cold weather by goofy183 · · Score: 1

      It probably isn't much work for the ECU to include a little logic to measure battery voltage and only do the shutoff when there is enough juice to start back up and also to restart if the battery drops low due to things like AC. I'd also be unsurprised if it doesn't do the shutoff at idle until the engine temp reaches a certain point. None of that seems like anything complex for a system like that.

    117. Re:Cold weather by afidel · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Yeah, because -40F and -40C are so different.....

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    118. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      Check on Amazon for a small solar panel with a car adapter on the end. Leave the solar planel on your dash during the day so it can trickle charge the battery.

      Hell, I'll do the work for you:

      http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-50032-Solar-Battery-Charger/dp/B0006JO0X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1293506933&sr=8-3

      If $70 is too much, they have smaller versions for $30-40. If that's not to your liking, and you have an outlet readily available near your vehicle at home, I'd suggest a battery tender mounted under the hood and a block heater in the engine, both strung together so you can use one extension cord to run them. They'll keep the engine warm *and* keep the battery charged. You can also find electrical blankets to wrap around the battery if you'd like to keep it warm as well.

    119. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      Odd. We have a 2008 Camry Hybrid and a 2010 Prius, and both shutdown the engine in the cold.

    120. Re:Cold weather by Massachusettensis · · Score: 1

      But what about the catalytic converter -- that has to be hot before it does anything and I don't think that 30 seconds of running gets it anywhere near hot enough.

      But the catalytic converter isn't warm while your warming up, is it? (if it is, why exactly are you warming up?) So it's not doing anything then, right? Might as well be driving - the nominal additional pollutants resulting from higher (driving) RPM on the engine are more than compensated for by getting there sooner and shutting the engine off, when it doesn't put out much bad stuff at all...

    121. Re:Cold weather by afidel · · Score: 1

      They don't use the starter to restart the engine, they use a slightly larger flywheel. Since the engine is already at temperature I don't think more frequent oil changes will be an issue either.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    122. Re:Cold weather by GWBasic · · Score: 1

      Odd. We have a 2008 Camry Hybrid and a 2010 Prius, and both shutdown the engine in the cold.

      It's because the Honda system is completely different then the Toyota system. In the Toyota system, you can still drive with the engine off, thus if it takes an extra second or two for the gas engine to start, it's not a big deal.

      The same can't be said for cars discussed in the article; or Honda hybrids. Honda hybrids are an ordinary car with a dynamo embedded in the engine block. They can't run on just electricity like the Toyotas can. It's because Honda's dynamo is directly attached to the crankshaft, unlike Toyota where the hybrid system is a completely new kind of transmission.

      And, believe me when I say this, I've had to really crank my Honda hybrid on a very cold New England morning. If you're driving down the street in a Toyota hybrid on a very cold New England morning, you might feel some kind of louder or harder thud when its gas motor kicks in.

    123. Re:Cold weather by nospam007 · · Score: 1

      It's against the law in most countries.
      If you want a warm car, install a heater which heats the oil, the water and the inside of the car without running the engine.
      http://www.webasto.com/home/en/html/homepage.html

    124. Re:Cold weather by nospam007 · · Score: 1

      "Water pumps have never been their strong suit."

      The days where auto manufacturers made their own pumps are long over.

    125. Re:Cold weather by PitaBred · · Score: 1

      Breathe through your nose. It helps.

    126. Re:Cold weather by squidguy · · Score: 1

      Depends on the heater. Some Saabs (at least ones sold in Nordic countries) had an auxiliary heater which ran off a gasoline-fired catalyst (Coleman lantern?). Automobile heaters don't have to rely solely on engine coolant.

    127. Re:Cold weather by ALeader71 · · Score: 1

      Well we've been using it for a while in Sweden and it's pretty cold up here. No problems so far.

      But how is your heater powered? If it's electric, okay. If it's form the engine's cooling system, maybe not.

      --
      Only the dead have seen the end of War. - Plato
    128. Re:Cold weather by gmhowell · · Score: 1

      If it's a V6, you'll be replacing the engine within about 100,000 miles. Probably less. Mine went bye-bye two months ago due to this.

      (oh, and if you ever need to replace the alternator, make sure you check the diode pack on the new/remanufactured one BEFORE installing it in the car.)

      --
      Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
    129. Re:Cold weather by noidentity · · Score: 1

      Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

      Maybe you don't.

    130. Re:Cold weather by gmhowell · · Score: 1

      Someone had a sense of humor.

      Yeah, I'd have to say you, and it's not a terribly good one. In my family (five drivers, 10+ vehicles), since ~1990, we've driven 1.25 million miles in Ford vehicles (certainly more, but I'm estimating low) and there has only been one replacement water pump. Vehicles range from the 2.2L I4 in the Mustang to a 351W in an Econoline with all sorts of stuff in between. I think the lowest mileage at time of sale of any of these vehicles was 90,000. An Explorer with the 302 V8 has an indicated 235,000 miles on it, but the odometer died over a year ago. This doesn't count Mazda engines, no matter whether they were in Mazdas or Fords.

      Now, if we want to talk about disposable Ford parts, let's discuss the cranks in the 2.5L Duratec and the wiring harness in the Mystique. Talk about a love/hate relationship with a car.

      --
      Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
    131. Re:Cold weather by Confusador · · Score: 1

      Given that their headquarters are in MI, I agree that it's highly unlikely that this would get to production without anyone thinking about cold weather.

    132. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative
    133. Re:Cold weather by Splab · · Score: 0

      You are kidding right? No sane person would use the heating system to remove ice from the windshield.

      You are killing your engine trying to heat up the windows when the engine is cold - if you are driving with an iced up windshield you are putting peoples life at risk.

    134. Re:Cold weather by Shadow99_1 · · Score: 1

      I had a Subaru I was borrowing from my parents while my car was in the shop a bit ago and the battery failed (needed a jumpstart, seemed fine for maybe 5 minutes) and once it was going the entire electrical system from headlights, gauges, heater, radio, gear shifting, etc, etc failed to work... In fact the engine barely kept going unless accelerating and feeding the engine more gas (very inefficiently since I doubt the fuel injectors were working correctly). If was snowing, under 0 degrees out, and I was at work 20 miles from home... Not the place I want to worry about my cars electrical load and not somewhere I can just decide to wait with no heat until a tow truck could show up. At work I'd already waited 1.5 hours for the dang toy truck, everyone was getting stuck/needing a jump that day. And once on my way for even 5 minutes their isn't a nice building to wait inside while the toy truck comes...

      'not a huge load' had differing meanings in certain situations... Freezing to death because it's 0 to -20 degrees out is a bad thing. And personally I'd rather the car not had to worry about how big an electrical load it had....

      --
      we are all invisible unless we choose otherwise
    135. Re:Cold weather by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      Yeah, the kind of enthusiast who air conditions his drag race car isn't exactly the penny pincher :-)

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    136. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Not to mention the time to melt the ice on the windshield if you live where I do.

      Are you saying that you use the internal heater in your car to melt the ice forming on the outside of the windshield..? If you lived where I do, it would take soo long time and look very stupid. It's even illegal to run the engine idle for more than 4 minutes when it gets below -15c / 5F. Warmer than that, two minutes.
      Yes, we use electric heaters to warm up the engine before starting it up. It's good for the engine, fuel consumption and the environment.
      Grandparent: opening up the side window just a little bit might help a lot with the condensation issue. Depending on how wet your breath is. My diesel engine runs so cold it takes around ten minutes before the heater starts to push even mildly warm air. By that time I've probably arrived at my destination already, without needing to hold my breath or suffering from reduced vision.

      Yes, I feel so much better person now, thanks.

    137. Re:Cold weather by Ihmhi · · Score: 1

      Besides, even if you were at a dead stop and cold, couldn't you just hold down the brakes and pump the gas for a few quick taps to get it running again?

    138. Re:Cold weather by YttriumOxide · · Score: 1

      Correct... it seems a lot of people here are ignoring TFA where it specifically says that this technology is already widespread in Europe. We get the occasional horribly hot summer here (although often very short lived) and defintely get some nastily cold winters, so the concepts of needing both cooling and heating are certainly not foreign to us! The auto-makers have indeed thought about these things and it is a solved problem. It remains to be seen if Ford will follow the wisdom of the others or do something brain-dead, but there's no point in all these posters saying, "aha, but clearly it can't work because of xyz" - it already DOES work.

      --
      My book about LSD and Self-Discovery
      Also on facebook as: DroppingAcidDaleBewan
    139. Re:Cold weather by blinx_ · · Score: 1

      In my Hyundai, it's only enabled when certain conditions are met, like temperature above a certain level, battery charged and only after you've driven the car for a few minutes. In addition you can manually disable it.

      The main benefit I got from byuing a car featuring what Hyundai calls ISG was a lower tax on the car, as here in Denmark that is dependent on the unrealistic manufacturer reported fuel efficiency. In real life I find the effect of the start-stop system is negligible.

      --
      Resistance is not futile - www.gnu.org
    140. Re:Cold weather by Reziac · · Score: 1

      You might want to get a "deep cycle" battery. Costco sells them for about $80. They're supposed to recover better from being fully discharged. Also, you want max cold amps and cranking amps, makes a difference when a vehicle sits a lot. (Mine does, I only drive it 3 or 4 times a month. Just had to replace the battery, which was over 9 years old and conveniently died while I was at Costco!)

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    141. Re:Cold weather by Reziac · · Score: 1

      Where I lived in Montana, traffic could get sufficiently stop-and-go that you'd be spending more time shut down than running. When it's -40 even a warm engine is going to cool down significantly in just a few minutes. So it could essentially get a cold start half a dozen times just from driving down the street.

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    142. Re:Cold weather by Reziac · · Score: 1

      If it's a Ford, it's *supposed* to leak. ;)

      Seriously... my Olds went thru water pumps every 25,000 miles or so; yonder sits my Ford pickup with its original water pump at 205k miles and 33 years old next month.

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    143. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I don't know where you live, but I used to have a '97 Civic and now have an '05 Accord and have no such problems. It's usually between 10F ~ 25F here in the mornings. When I get in my car (after scraping the damn windows.......), I just turn the heat to max, the A/C on (this reduces moisture -- good for defrosting), and defrost the front and back windows. I have zero problems with fogging up, except for the back side windows, and the car typically gets warm after a couple miles of driving, before which time you dance in your seat so you don't freeze to death. The only time I have trouble with fogged windows is if I forget to turn the system to Defrost.

    144. Re:Cold weather by drsquare · · Score: 1

      Um, walk?

    145. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My guess is that if the engineers know what they're doing, they'll probably have the computer disable the idle shut-off until the engine goes into closed loop mode. Closed loop means the engine is operating under conditions where it can use the O2 sensor(s) as part of the feedback loop in it's engine management computer. This means your temperature gauge should be 1/4 to 1/2 of it's maximum reading, and that your catalytic converter is hot enough to burn off the HC's and NOx. So the coolant should be hot enough to make the interior heater give off noticeable heat by then.

      Still, I think they'd need some kind of electric powered coolant pump to keep the interior heater coolant circuit going during prolonged wait periods. Whether or not they thought to add one is another question. Of course if the main coolant temperature starts going towards the low end of the closed loop value, it's likely that gets the engine back to running as well.

    146. Re:Cold weather by j_sp_r · · Score: 1

      Idling the car to melt the ice on the windshield is bad for more than one reason (toxic fumes, kills your engine). You have to manually remove the ice and then start the car.

    147. Re:Cold weather by Cobron · · Score: 1

      On my volvo it doesn't work below zero or when the car hasn't warmed up completely. It uses a 2nd smaller battery which is dedicated to this start/stop function and uses regenerative braking to charge the battery. The engine shuts off when I release the clutch at a red light. When I start pressing the clutch it turns on before it is even fully pressed.

    148. Re:Cold weather by treeves · · Score: 1

      Well, that 100,000 mile mark was reached several years ago and not long before I sold the car. I know the person who bought it though and I think she's still driving it. I don't know how many miles she's logged but if it was at the same rate I did, she's already past or close to 200,000 miles. It is sixteen years old now.

      --
      ...the future crusty old bastards are already drinking the Kool-Aid.
    149. Re:Cold weather by Kharny · · Score: 1

      -40C is extremely rare, unless you live in syberia.

      at -30ish we get occasionally in finland, it's nasty. But with wintercoolant/diesel and a blockheater it isn't much of an issue.

      --
      Make a man a fire and he will be warm for a day, set a man on fire and he will be warm for the rest of his life
    150. Re:Cold weather by ormondotvos · · Score: 1

      My Honda Helix does.

    151. Re:Cold weather by cbope · · Score: 1

      VW has been selling a fair amount of start/stop diesel-engined cars here in Finland and I've not heard of any problems.

    152. Re:Cold weather by WillKemp · · Score: 1

      Obviously that's in a celsius not that other unit of measure that died a few decades ago.

      If it's -40 it doesn't matter whether it's fahrenheit or celsius.

    153. Re:Cold weather by cbope · · Score: 1

      Actually, engines and their cooling/heating systems can lose quite a lot of heat very rapidly in extreme cold. Here in Finland it was ~ -15-20c a couple weeks ago, and after stopping the car for 30 minutes the engine cooled completely. It was fully warmed up to 90c when I stopped. I left the store and drove home using side roads instead of taking the highway, and the engine never did reach normal operating temp (it hit about 55-60c max). The distance was ~6 miles / 10km. And this on an engine with both a turbocharger and supercharger which generate more heat compared to a normally aspirated engine.

      Under the same temps I've also noted a fully warmed-up engine dropping in temperature ~15-20c when stopping at traffic lights for a couple minutes.

    154. Re:Cold weather by cbope · · Score: 1

      True, but who's saying that these engines use a typical mechanically belt-driven water pump? They could be using electric water pumps which continue circulating coolant even with the engine not running. Of course it would slowly cool down if the engine is not restarted within a short time.

    155. Re:Cold weather by Dr.Ruud · · Score: 1

      You were doing it wrong. Your engine nor car will really warm up before you are on the road, and it is bad for the environment too. Don't your neighbors hate you?

      You should have a heater installed. Clever ones store and reuse the heat of the last trip.

    156. Re:Cold weather by SimonInOz · · Score: 1

      Hot weather - yes, it's summer where I am - is another problem. Stop the air conditioning and it gets warm rather quickly. You see disturbing numbers of people sitting in their cars, parked, running their engines just to keep the airco going.

      I don't recall experiencing this when I rented a Prius though, so I guess it's powered electrically. This ought to mean the compressor could run on a fixed speed, which ought to make the engineering simpler, compared with belt driven, so there are some upsides - might save some weight, get some efficiency gains. (Also you could remote start the a/c walking up to the car so it'd be cool when you get there. That'd be nice).
      Is it worth considering reverse-cycle air conditioning for winter?

      --
      "Cats like plain crisps"
    157. Re:Cold weather by Wingsy · · Score: 2

      So how is it that my Chrysler 300 Hemi gets better mileage when on the open road and it shuts off 4 cylinders? (And my opinion of Ford is that it's the Microsoft of the auto industry.)

      --
      If I didn't have absolutely NOTHING to do, I wouldn't be here.
    158. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      BMW specifically recommend NOT warming the car up for long periods before driving off; it's no longer necessary due to today's technology, nicosil-plated cylinders etc...

      They also recommend never changing the oil in the gearbox and brag about their streched to the limit oil change intervals. Still, it doesn't change the fact that all three of these things is pure marketing bullshit.

    159. Re:Cold weather by RzUpAnmsCwrds · · Score: 1

      The Prius ECU integrates with the climate control system, so if you turn on the heat the engine will run until there's enough coolant to give you heat.

      Actually, if you put the heater on "auto" then the heat will stay off and the engine will run until the engine coolant gets up to a useful temperature (usually takes about 3 minutes), then the heater fan gradually spins up. When the engine coolant temperature finally gets hot enough (takes about 10 mins, or less if you're actively driving) then the engine will stop.

      This is one of the advantages of building a car less like a series of pieces and more like an integrated system. The Prius is effectively a series of independent modules (ECUs) that work together through a common network (CAN bus, among others) for a single goal. The power steering can have different assist forces at different speeds because it gets speed data from the combi-display (speedometer). The engine can shut down when it's appropriate based on input from the hybrid system and other systems like the climate control computer. The hybrid system can avoid taking too much current to the battery when it's hot or cold because it communicates with the battery computer. The braking system can use less friction braking because it communicates with the hybrid system to provide regenerative braking (which, in turn, communicates with the battery and other systems).

      The advantages to this integration are better efficiency, lower cost, reduced wiring complexity (since sensors and actuators are wired only to their nearby ECU, rather than all over the car), and other improvements. Something like cruise control is trivial to implement because you already have the data and control elements you need - it's just a matter of software.

    160. Re:Cold weather by mentus · · Score: 1

      ... kills the engine below 5mph when the car is in neutral and clutch is out, then the moment you hit the clutch to pop her back in gear she fires up again, so quickly that it's almost impossible to get your foot on the gas before she's running.

      Hum, curious here about the part of switching off only when in neutral. At least here in Brazil, the general recommendation by the transit authorities is to never have the car in neutral while driving. In certain situations you might even get yourself a traffic ticket or have your vehicle detained for that (driving in neutral). So as a general rule, when stopping at the traffic light, the usual drill is to hit the clutch all the way and put in 1st. It gets pretty tiresome at times having to keep the clutch all the way so often (especially when the traffic is too heavy) so sometimes people will put it to neutral so as to not have to keep hitting the clutch.. but that would be the an exception, not the rule.

    161. Re:Cold weather by Tripkipke · · Score: 1

      You know it's an electrical pump don't you? Keeps running just fine when the engine is off.

      Another thing, you have perfect control over when the engine shuts down, you need to be in neutral and release the clutch before the engine shuts down, simply pressing the clutch again starts it up (faster then you can put it in first gear)

    162. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Please tell that to my redneck neighbor that has to idle his F250 piece of crap truck for 30 minutes every morning. The man thinks he is a truck/car expert yet has never torn down an engine or built anything in his life, does not stop him from telling me that I'm destroying my cars by driving away within 3 minutes of starting them.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    163. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Have you observed these young nutjobs?

      -1C degrees out and these idiots are wearing shorts, flipflops and tanktops.. "it's cold dude!"

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    164. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 2

      Outside of when I lived in Alaska and I had to deal with -25F mornings I have NEVER had my breath condense on the windshield. But then I use the car properly and run the defroster the second the car starts, moving cold air across the windshield prevents this. Plus your car will actually start pumping out warmer than outside air to that within 30 seconds. 3 degrees difference is enough to keep things clear on a high fan speed.

      This is laid out clearly in your car's manual, honda, toyota, ford,GM all say to do this to prevent condensation and freezing on the windshield. Did you even read it?

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    165. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      I have the same car and do not have that problem. get your heater core checked, it's leaking.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    166. Re:Cold weather by mobby_6kl · · Score: 1

      Ski masks could be illegal because then the cops won't be able to prove who was driving the car when it's photographed by a speed camera or something. I don't know for sure though. In any case, I don't think wearing a balaclava inside the car is all that necessary since there won't be any wind blowing in your face, which helps a lot when it's cold.

    167. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Your alternator is undersized for your driving. upgrade to a 120Amp or larger. This solved it for my wife that drives 3 miles to work. battery is topped off from the start before she leaves the driveway.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    168. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sure, the engine might not need to 'warm' up so much anymore. Turn on and go.

      I'm from a fairly warm part of the world and am spending a winter in Canada, we get -25C at times, I can understand people letting their cars warm up before jumping in because its damn cold!

    169. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yes they are. One is a very cold winter day, the other you get frostbite on any exposed skin within seconds.

    170. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      IT's not that "sucks" if you do it right. pull into garage, plug it in. I routed my plug so that when I leave in the morning I simply back up and it unplugs automatically. I'd rather haveto waste 3.2 seconds plugging it back in than the big SUCKS that comes with not plugging it in and it got really cold that night.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    171. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      So nobody owns a toyota prius in Florida?

      Because those do that right now.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    172. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      You would be suprised.

      GM engineers, Built a LOT of cars with the main wiring harness connector UNDER the car and exit where salt and ice spray from the drivers tire will hit it. Causing a large number of GM cars to have a faulty wiring problem with this connector within 6-10 years. Gm engineer not using his brain at all.

      There are a lot of other problems with cars designed up in this cold climate. Plus Detroit barely get's any snow compared to the middle of the state, they dont even know what snow really is in detroit. (call me when you get 2 feet overnight and dont even consider it a snow day.)

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    173. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      I get near the same gas mileage in my NON hybrid Civic. I average 40mpg, winter is averaging 38mpg because of the higher Ethanol content. I ruled out the Civic hybrid because it had no value added over the regular civic. comparing cost of purchase to fuel saved it was a net loss.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    174. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      The cargather.com, aritcle is written by someone that knows nothing about cars.

      "the cam is lubricated by crank splashes" That is so incorrect it's not funny and a glaring red flag that the author is making crap up. your Crank does not SPLASH anything, your oil level when running is far lower than the bottom of the crank, in fact you have overfilled the engine if the crank is splashing into the oil.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    175. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My car alarm sounds every time I unlock the trunk with the key (rather than the remote). Catching use cases doesn't seem to be the strong suit of auto manufaturers these days.

    176. Re:Cold weather by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      Where I lived in Montana, traffic could get sufficiently stop-and-go that you'd be spending more time shut down than running. When it's -40 even a warm engine is going to cool down significantly in just a few minutes. So it could essentially get a cold start half a dozen times just from driving down the street.

      And that's exactly the kind of problem that modern vehicle electronics could never account for, especially in Northern Europe (where this technology is fast becoming commonplace).

      --
      You're special forces then? That's great! I just love your olympics!
    177. Re:Cold weather by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      Correct... it seems a lot of people here are ignoring TFA where it specifically says that this technology is already widespread in Europe....there's no point in all these posters saying, "aha, but clearly it can't work because of xyz" - it already DOES work.

      Ah, I see you missed all of the discussions where the USA was proving that government-provided healthcare could never work as well. Probably distracted by all the people dropping dead on the streets over there, from what I heard on our fine conservative news stations.

      --
      You're special forces then? That's great! I just love your olympics!
    178. Re:Cold weather by rjstanford · · Score: 2

      Actually, you had a problem with your alternator - you can remove your battery completely once your engine has started and drive around town just fine (seriously, give it a go - just remember not to turn off the motor unless you're next to another battery). As long as the engine's running, all power for the car comes directly from the alternator, indirectly from the engine.

      As to your FUD though... what would have happened if the water pump had died instead? In your scenario you'd have had absolutely no heat very shortly, and if you continued to drive around you might well have ended up with no engine to speak of as well. And water pumps die all the time. But guess what? We deal with it. Besides, if you're that concerned about vehicle reliability in cold weather, make sure you have a decent candle, some matches, and a blanket in the trunk. Add a jar of peanut butter and a few bottles of water and you can hold out for a remarkably long time just fine.

      --
      You're special forces then? That's great! I just love your olympics!
    179. Re:Cold weather by ultranova · · Score: 1

      Granted, if you car dies any time it happens to be -40 around here it could be a fairly serious problem.

      Obviously that's in a celsius not that other unit of measure that died a few decades ago.

      You people have it easy. Around here it's -40 Kelvin in summer.

      --

      Forget magic. Any technology distinguishable from divine power is insufficiently advanced.

    180. Re:Cold weather by Shuntros · · Score: 1

      Most countries with mainly manual transmission cars teach to put it in neutral when stopped. Reason being that if someone hits you from behind and your foot comes off the clutch the car is a hazard as it's in gear and could injure others when it drives off with you unconscious at the wheel. Someone hits you in neutral you've only got the energy from the smash to play with.

      Noone's suggesting putting it in neutral whilst driving, but say you're in slow moving traffic, going down a hill at walking pace, car stays in neutral, engine stays stopped. As soon as the car hits 5mph the engine restarts without any input from the driver.

    181. Re:Cold weather by mdarksbane · · Score: 1

      Yes, that's why my engine places massive electronic limitations on how it runs until it has reached operating temperature. Lowered redline, no variable valve timing or lift engagement. They're still definitely happier once they've properly warmed up.

    182. Re:Cold weather by Tyler+Durden · · Score: 1

      F = 9/5 * C + 32
      Assume F = C

      C = 9/5 * C + 32
      -4/5 * C = 32
      C = -40 = F

      --
      Happy people make bad consumers.
    183. Re:Cold weather by logjon · · Score: 0

      HAHA! It's funny because they are exactly the same!

      --
      The stories and info posted here are artistic works of fiction and falsehood.
      Only fools would take it as fact.
    184. Re:Cold weather by Theoboley · · Score: 1

      Why would it not be legal to drive with a ski mask or balaclava?

      What does Greek pastry have to do with this?

      --
      Stupidity only gets you so far, then you've gotta try
    185. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      -40

      Obviously that's in a celsius

      Aw man that's some high quality fail right there.

    186. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      While I'm all for being outside when it's cold, I don't walk around when it's -22F. Sorry.

    187. Re:Cold weather by thoromyr · · Score: 1

      you might try converting -40F to Celsius and see what you get... Or do it the other way around. Kind of the same difference, really.

    188. Re:Cold weather by mayko · · Score: 1

      I'm pretty sure he/she means with the window/windsheild defrosters, where I live (Michigan, US) its fairly common practice to start your car (outdoors) and let it run until the heat is blowing warm and defrosting all your windows. Even -25 deicer windshield cleaner will freeze some mornings. It's better for the vehicle too, because you're letting all the engine components come up to their optimal operating temperatures.

    189. Re:Cold weather by Doctor+Faustus · · Score: 1

      Traffic Jam rush hour is far more typical scenario, where real saving could be found.

      I'd be afraid, if this became common, lots of people would wait longer before moving forward, so they can keep the engine off more. That's likely to make the traffic jams a lot worse, and cost more fuel overall.

    190. Re:Cold weather by ThatMegathronDude · · Score: 1

      The bearing surfaces in your engine depend on oil pressure, not just the presence of oil.

    191. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Forget cold weather - how does this system behave in 100+ degree Florida weather!

    192. Re:Cold weather by kenshin33 · · Score: 1

      -55 (with windchill, it was actually around -30, with very string winds) Montreal winter 98/99.
      went out for a smoke, removed my glove 10 seconds later droped the smoke and went home (couldn't feel my hand anymore)

    193. Re:Cold weather by Reziac · · Score: 1

      Yep... every time I see one of these articles about cars being made "smarter" than their drivers, I think of a dozen scenarios common to driving outside of a perfectly regulated urban pattern, where the new tech would be somewhere between folly and dangerous. Sometimes a little inefficiency is better than locking everyone into a pattern that will only work under completely predictable circumstances.

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    194. Re:Cold weather by Quirkz · · Score: 1

      A: Ride their bike instead?
      B: Walk?
      C: Take a 2-minute detour?

    195. Re:Cold weather by swb · · Score: 1

      Given the complete garbage put out by all three American car makers over an extended timeframe, I wouldn't count on Detroit getting anything right.

      I'm sure they borrow the philosophy from computer hardware design -- "hardware bug? We'll fix it in the OS. OS guys? They'll fix it in the application. Application guys? The users will adjust their process. The users? We need to specify new hardware."

      I'm sure in auto manufacturing it goes something like "Design problem? The engineers will fix it. Engineering says they'll fix it manufacturing. Manufacturing says they'll issue a service bulletin for dealers. The dealers say it's not an issue at all."
       

    196. Re:Cold weather by Nos. · · Score: 1

      Don't tell Buell or the people that buy them... they'd hate to know their bikes won't actually run.

    197. Re:Cold weather by Dr.Syshalt · · Score: 1

      It takes quite a long time for the engine to cool down to the level where the low temperature can be an issue for an engine start. I'd be more concerned with an accumulator battery discharging during those stops - since driver will obviously not going to turn off the car stereo or the climate control. But engineers will probably take that into the account and will not stop the engine if the battery charge is below some limit.

    198. Re:Cold weather by jawtheshark · · Score: 1

      It's also illegal in many places. Here it will cost you 45€ fine if they catch you doing it.

      --
      Ahhh...the great dumpster continuum. Many a free computer will be found there. -- sowth (748135)
    199. Re:Cold weather by maeka · · Score: 1

      Most countries with mainly manual transmission cars teach to put it in neutral when stopped. Reason being that if someone hits you from behind and your foot comes off the clutch the car is a hazard as it's in gear and could injure others when it drives off with you unconscious at the wheel.

      They teach that, but you are mistaken as to why.
      Accident pops left foot off clutch while simultaneously pushing right foot onto gas while in a low enough gear one doesn't stall the engine, and said right foot remains on gas pedal?
      Not very likely.

      The reason one does not idle with their foot on the clutch is that you're wearing out the release bearing. Only way to replace that is to open the whole thing, and we all know how much that is.

    200. Re:Cold weather by mujadaddy · · Score: 1

      First one, then the other!

      --
      Populus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur...
      "Force shits upon Reason's back." - Poor Richard's Almanac
    201. Re:Cold weather by mujadaddy · · Score: 1

      You'll forgive me if the image of Montana and hours-long traffic jams is incongruous.

      --
      Populus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur...
      "Force shits upon Reason's back." - Poor Richard's Almanac
    202. Re:Cold weather by Shuntros · · Score: 1

      No, I'm not mistaken. We're not talking about holding it on the clutch; that's a whole different discussion. We're talking about being stationary, with clutch in and footbrake applied.

      Most modern diesels have sufficient torque suddenly letting the clutch out with no gas will not cause it to stall, it'll just drive off at engine idle speed.

    203. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My Honda Civic Hybrid uses this technology, and I haven't had a big problem with it in the past three years. Then again, extreme cold weather isn't a major issue where I live in California. I have sometimes been annoyed by its behavior in hot weather, though. In the middle of the summer, when I'm driving in the city with the air conditioner blowing on high, I will have to stop at a red light and the engine will go into suspend mode...and so will the A/C. As long as the light changes within a minute or two, I can survive, but if traffic is slow of if I have to wait through two red lights, I will definitely suffer. Rolling down the windows usually doesn't help...

    204. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The Prius is fine as long as you can keep moving, but in icy weather and stop and go traffic, I've gone through half a tank in 90 minutes, covering only a few blocks. The batteries' charge gets down from using the AC and heater, and it's not recharging when you're stopped, since the gas engine shuts down. Every time you have to move ahead a few feet, it starts the gas engine, then again shuts it down when you stop.
      I once left a small V8 idling all afternoon (forgot it) and the gas guage never moved.

    205. Re:Cold weather by icebike · · Score: 1

      Electrical pumps have been suggested previously in this thread, and they have already been shown as another unsustainable electric draw. Especially when added to tens of engine restarts per hour is stop and go traffic.

      As for for being in neutral and releasing the clutch, A) who does that at a stop light?, and B) do you have any idea how few manual transmissions are sold these days?

      --
      Sig Battery depleted. Reverting to safe mode.
    206. Re:Cold weather by ultranova · · Score: 2

      What a wuss. Ever heard of a "winter jacket"? Or a "hat"? No wonder we're running out of oil: we insist on wearing short sleeves in subfreezing conditions and burning oil to change the environment to be comfortable, instead of just using the remarkable inventions created by prehistoric man, called "clothes".

      Keeping the windshield warm enough so that your breath doesn't freeze on it goes beyond mere comfort. Also, the more you're wearing, the harder it is to move; and since most people already suck at driving...

      --

      Forget magic. Any technology distinguishable from divine power is insufficiently advanced.

    207. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How does this system behave in cold weather? Sometimes, I want the car running for a while, either to power the heater or to just warm up the engine before I take it on the road?

      Having worked a couple of components of Ford's start-stop system, I can tell you it is very conservative when it comes to turning off the engine:

      1. The engine will only be shut off when you have your foot on the brake. As soon as the brake pedal is released, the engine retarts.
      2. The engine will only shut off when the powertrain controller is confident the engine will be able to restart quickly. This includes verifying that the engine, transmission, etc. was warmed up to operating temperature.
      3. The engine will automatically restart after two minutes.

      So basically, on a cold morning, the car will act like any other car.

    208. Re:Cold weather by screwzloos · · Score: 1

      It's a common winter day here in Fairbanks, Alaska.

    209. Re:Cold weather by camperdave · · Score: 1

      You know you are witnessing the emergence of a new Slashdot meme, don't you?

      --
      When our name is on the back of your car, we're behind you all the way!
    210. Re:Cold weather by Reziac · · Score: 1

      You'd think so, but the fact is you've got a frontier town's street layout with modern traffic, and at times it can get cramped (especially in those towns that have had rapid growth in recent years). Downtown Great Falls can achieve total gridlock. The corner of North 7th and Main in Bozeman can take 15 minutes to get through on a bad day, in turn backing up the next major intersection to the north for its own 15 minutes. Billings' downtown can take half an hour to toddle through. I'm told Missoula has a main thoroughfare with similar issues.

      Yeah, it's not Los Angeles traffic, but considered proportionally -- MT probably has less street surface area per vehicle than L.A. does. Imagine that scaled up to metro size!

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    211. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      As long as the oil pump is electric, and not belt driven, this should pose no problem as you can maintain oil pressure without the engine running.

    212. Re:Cold weather by TooMuchToDo · · Score: 1

      This is why I'm partial to Toyota's "Synergy Drive." It seems like they put more thought into engineering the drivetrain, whereas Honda (who is *awesome* at building efficient, reliable engines) bolted an electric motor (dynamo) on as an afterthought.

      I understand R&D is expensive, but Honda should just pony up and license the Toyota tech like GM and Nissan did.

      Disclaimer: I own large amounts of both Toyota and Tesla Motors stock, so I'm biased.

    213. Re:Cold weather by multipartmixed · · Score: 1

      Alaska is not really that far from Siberia.

      And if you think it's reasonable to design an entire fleet of vehicles around the needs of 700,000 people -- you must have voted for Sarah Palin.

      --

      Do daemons dream of electric sleep()?
    214. Re:Cold weather by northland5 · · Score: 1

      Maybe in Stockholm there fine but in Fairbanks AK there to be feared. One needs serious heat in this place and it comes from the engine. If the engine isn't running and the ambient outside temp is -40C you better have a really kick-ass power goose down parka.

    215. Re:Cold weather by multipartmixed · · Score: 1

      Agreed.

      When I start any of my vehicles, I fire them up, wait for the idle to stabilize, and drive off gently. Once the coolant needle has moved to the "C" mark I drive as vigorously as practical.

      "idle to stabilize" means - in an EFI vehicle, wait for the fast-idle to stop (this usually takes 5 seconds or so); in a carbureted vehicle, adjust the choke so that engine idles smoothly, usually about 10% higher than the normal idle. Then I flip the choke off about a mile down the road.

      This regimen, combined with modern engine oils and a block heater in extreme cold, perfectly balances the lack-of-lube cold start problem with the excessive emissions, uneven heating, and unnecessary wear that extended warmups cause.

      --

      Do daemons dream of electric sleep()?
    216. Re:Cold weather by multipartmixed · · Score: 1

      Not only the throw-out bearing, but also the clutch plates.

      You see, when members a certain gender think it's okay to keep the brake pedal pressed and the clutch in at a stop, they strangely somehow start to believe that it is also okay to ignore the brake and feather the clutch to keep the car stationary on a hill.

      --

      Do daemons dream of electric sleep()?
    217. Re:Cold weather by screwzloos · · Score: 1

      I didn't suggest anything of the sort. "Design an entire fleet of vehicles around the needs of 700,000 people" is a bit of a stretch from making sure an unnecessary (and invasive) vehicle function has the option of being disabled. Ford's engineers would be short sighted to have that behavior be always active.

      That's a low blow accusing me of voting for Sarah, though. Low blow, sir.

    218. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Don't know if you've ever stopped to consider the other side of the economy equation. Increased number of starts = increased wear of starter motor. It would be interesting to compare, over the life of the car, the reduction in fuel burn with the costs of starter motor replacement, bearing in mind that aforesaid starter will be a typically overpriced BMW Bosch sourced component fitted by a BMW technician on BMW labour rates. This assumes of course that starter ring gear wear doesn't also come into the equation; if the ring gear requires replacement the repair work will easily reach four figures. Four figures is a lot of diesel. The majority of diesel BMWs in the UK are company vehicles these days, hence the long term costs of ownership aren't generally considered, they're a problem for whoever buys the vehicle after it's been thrashed around the motorways for a few years and reached its residual value. I don't know, it's perfectly possible that Bosch or whoever makes the starter has upgraded the unit to take account of the increased punishment, though given the sad levels Bosch has fallen to in quality terms over the last thirty years or so I somehow doubt it. This all smacks of the bollocks that has overtaken the white goods industry. You buy an AAA rated washing machine which uses a teaspoon of cold water and a smidgin of electricity to wash your clothes. Yet despite the impressive figures your clothes don't feel clean. The machine fails just outside warranty expiry, and you end up buying another one because the old one will cost more to fix than buying a new one.

    219. Re:Cold weather by AmiMoJo · · Score: 1

      I have owned a car with Stop & Go for a couple of years so can probably answer some of these questions.

      My car is a Mitsubishi Colt 1.3 ClearTec. Nice car and pretty reasonably priced IMHO. The Stop & Go is quite intelligent, so for example if you are demisting the windscreen or the engine is colt it won't kick it. When it does the engine stops but everything like lights, heaters/aircon, power steering, cd player and so on keeps working. The moment you put your foot down on the clutch or start to turn the wheel the engine starts again in less than 1 second. It is so fast you can never get it into gear before it's ready. It isn't like starting from cold either, the lights don't dip and the cd player does not cut out.

      The alternator is supposed to last the lifetime of the car. Mitsubishi have only had Stop & Go for a few years but BMW and IIRC Mercedes have been using it for longer and I couldn't find reports of any problems. Certainly in two years of driving, ranging from hot summers with aircon on to freezing snow and ice I have never had any problems with it.

      As an experiment I decided to see how much effect it had on MPG* by doing the same run with the same stops (simulated by pulling) with Stop & Go on and with it off. Sure enough at the end of a 30 minute drive I was about 10MPG up. On a good day going to work I can hit 57MPG in this car.

      Unfortunately the UK sells petrol in litres but measures long distances in miles. I have yet to find a car that offers Miles Per Litre stats...

      --
      const int one = 65536; (Silvermoon, Texture.cs)
      SJW, n: "Someone I don't like, and by the way I'm a fuckwit" - AC
    220. Re:Cold weather by ArsonSmith · · Score: 1

      Civic=/=Civic

      I bought one back in 2003 and the civic hybrid was about $2k more than the nearly equivalent LX gas version. The lower grade versions were lighter and had smaller engines and got close to the 47mpg that I was able to get, but were less powerful had none of the higher end features. the Civic Hybrid to Civic LX was 47mpg to ~30mpg. Where the lower models could get 38-40mpg.

      --
      Paying taxes to buy civilization is like paying a hooker to buy love.
    221. Re:Cold weather by ArsonSmith · · Score: 1

      Burn as much oil as you can, Global Warming will be your friend.

      --
      Paying taxes to buy civilization is like paying a hooker to buy love.
    222. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The HVAC system in your car has a windshield defroster setting. It turns on the AC (typically) and blows dry air across the inside of your windshield. This prevents condensation from forming if activated immediately upon starting the car. If there is already condensation on your windshield because you didn't turn it on fast enough, it will remove the condensation fairly quickly as long as it hasn't frozen. Works great.

      The windows in my 2000 Honda Accord will fog up if I so much as glance at them, especially at -20C or lower, but I have never had an issue once I learned to use the windshield defroster properly.

    223. Re:Cold weather by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      For the record, the kind of cold weather found in North America (particularly in the northern central states in the US and, of course, most of Canada) is much colder than you typically get in the UK. People are concerned about how well this is going to work in -30C - although, as you say, these systems are clever enough to figure out when it is appropriate to turn off the engine, so it's probably much ado about nothing.

      I think Audi have a stop/start system on an automatic car (A3, maybe?), that supposedly works passably well.

    224. Re:Cold weather by GWBasic · · Score: 1

      The newer Civics get better mileage then the 03s and 04s. Anyway, the Hybrid really isn't about gas savings. It's a quieter and smoother ride, and has climate control.

    225. Re:Cold weather by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      Woosh....

      Or did you really not understand that this is already in widespread public use from places like Scandinavia, where its brass-monkey-cold, to crowded cities like Paris and London, and it really, truly, does work? Not is-projected-to-work, but has-sold-assloads-of-cars work?

      --
      You're special forces then? That's great! I just love your olympics!
    226. Re:Cold weather by rolfwind · · Score: 1

      I'm not sure. It's been like this from the beginning and all my other cars have acted like this.

      Doesn't a heater core need hot coolant to work? Now, if I driving, it'd heat up in 4 minutes instead of 12, but that's rather dangerous.

      I might be in a cold humid area for all I now. But I'm talking 20 degrees Fahrenheit here.

    227. Re:Cold weather by gmhowell · · Score: 1

      How is a 96 car now 16 years old?

      While I and those who have suffered spun bearings are not the majority, we are a significant enough minority to make me question the reliability of the engine. A retired Ford powertrain engineer is of a similar opinion and has some ideas regarding both the problem and a potential cure. Sadly, Ford has not adopted them.

      --
      Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
    228. Re:Cold weather by treeves · · Score: 1

      One can typically buy a N model year car in the summer of year N-1. And it is nearly 2011. And perhaps I rounded up.

      --
      ...the future crusty old bastards are already drinking the Kool-Aid.
    229. Re:Cold weather by toddestan · · Score: 1

      The Prius's AC compressor is electric and can run a while off of the Prius's battery pack.

    230. Re:Cold weather by Confusador · · Score: 1

      Having grown up in Kalamazoo and since transplanted to Minnesota, I have to agree with you about snow. Let me assure you, though, that if it's warm enough to snow I'm not worried about my battery. Those are the pleasant days around here.

    231. Re:Cold weather by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      My Civic has climate control. Not really something that is a must have, but it's there.

      Quieter and smoother ride? compared to a Si? yes. compared to a EX? nope. If you want quieter and smoother get a Caddilac. Civic is not about Quieter and smoother ride.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    232. Re:Cold weather by drsquare · · Score: 1

      I wonder how anyone managed to get by before they invented the car.

  3. Fuel-Saving? by Culture20 · · Score: 1

    I've always heard that starting a car uses more gas than a couple minutes on idle. Is that a myth? Mythbusters, wherefore art thou?

    1. Re:Fuel-Saving? by chibiace · · Score: 0

      i have heard this also

      --
      he who controls the spice controls the universe
    2. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      in the cold the engine requires a lot more fuel because the fuel is not atomized properly, so it's somewhat difficult to get it into the cylinders, once the head has been warmed up, the fuel can vaporize easier, so restarting will not take much fuel.

      direct injection would also offset the need for more fuel in cold start and restart.

    3. Re:Fuel-Saving? by lyml · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Since it's already been deployed in Europe with great success (although the silence when you stand still at a red light is ominous) Mythbusters seems redundant.

    4. Re:Fuel-Saving? by JazzyJ · · Score: 1

      Current method of starting a car may indeed do so. (Mythbusters, find this out!)

      The article mentions 'quickly restarting'.... might involve a different method for starting the vehicle.

      Gosh, I'd hate to think what this would do to your car battery when stuck in NY/LA traffic or something....

    5. Re:Fuel-Saving? by gandhi_2 · · Score: 1

      Remember when we said that about turning off computers?

    6. Re:Fuel-Saving? by TheEyes · · Score: 2

      I don't remember if Mythbusters did an episode on starting/stopping the engine, but I do know it's a myth that starting and stopping the engine uses more gas than idling. It may have been true once, but electronic engine starters are pretty efficient these days.

    7. Re:Fuel-Saving? by bobdotorg · · Score: 4, Informative

      On fuel injected cars you pay the penalty on a cold start - until the engine and exhaust / emissions systems are warmed up, the car runs rich (open loop).

      Once the car is warmed up, the ECU (engine control unit) will go into a more efficient closed loop operation, using O2 sensor output to set more efficient fuel levels. Shutting off the engine for a moment will not send the system back to the less efficient open loop.

      --
      __ Someday, but not this morning, I'll finally learn to use the preview button.
    8. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Macman408 · · Score: 1

      I've heard the same thing about fluorescent lights. But in both cases, it's wrong. The Prius, for example, gets rather incredible mileage because of (not despite) this. There could be increased wear, if the devices in question aren't designed properly, but the Prius handles all the starts and stops just fine. Average cheapo fluorescent lights, on the other hand, tend to burn out quickly if cycled on and off, though.

    9. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Pedantic anon troll here,

      Wherefore actually means "why", not "where".

    10. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Culture20 · · Score: 1

      Remember when we said that about turning off computers?

      I slap the wrists of any of my users who shut down "their" machines. Because after they're done with them, it's my turn to do work on them, and not every manufacturer (Apple, esp) knows how to utilize WOL properly (No, Apple, WOL doesn't just mean wake from sleep. We want wake from off-state). When we eventually get around to using idle machines for extra render nodes, there will be public shamings for users that shut down for the night.

    11. Re:Fuel-Saving? by arbiter1 · · Score: 1

      would say it would use about the same, But the biggest issue could be is the wear on the starter motor and engine of start and stopping it like that would lead to repair bills and/or lose of fuel economy.

    12. Re:Fuel-Saving? by donotlizard · · Score: 1

      I enjoy "wasting" fuel. It makes me feel like a big man, like when I yell at children who walk past my girlfriend's house. Oh wait, I don't have a girlfriend.

    13. Re:Fuel-Saving? by thynk · · Score: 1

      Good link, even better that I used to live in Ft. Collins :-)

      --

      Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
    14. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Pingmaster · · Score: 0

      Maybe, do you think just maybe, Ford might have thought about that and put a special case instruction in the ECU to oh, I don't know, not do that?
      Just a thought

    15. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It definitely was true once. They used to dump some fuel in to be ready to restart the next time. It's not done or needed with modern cars with fuel injection.

      So it's not a myth, it's simply outdated information. There is a difference.

    16. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      It's worked for religion for thousands of years, why question it?

    17. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Mr+Z · · Score: 2

      I've seen this covered time and time again. In a modern vehicle, if you know you're going to be idling more than 30 seconds or so, it's better for fuel economy to shut it off. The Car Talk guys even mention it (little over halfway down).

      Supposedly, with older carbuerated vehicles, you could waste a fair bit of fuel with frequent starts. Modern fuel injection systems don't have that problem, unless you have seriously leaky injectors.

    18. Re:Fuel-Saving? by ChrisMaple · · Score: 1

      Quick starting is mostly a function of making quick starting a design priority. My 1993 Toyota Tercel always starts within a half second even at 10F.

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    19. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I seem to recall that this "truth" came out in the era of carburetors. One of the issues was the amount of fuel a carb would use during start up - a lot of unburned fuel dumping out the exhaust, that kinda thing. There was talk of having to preheat the catalytic converter in order meet emissions laws, during start up, that kinda thing. I *think* multi-port fuel-injection/direct injection has accommodated for most of the problems associated with start up.

    20. Re:Fuel-Saving? by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      Shutting off the engine for a moment will not send the system back to the less efficient open loop.

      Where do you live? It gets down to -20F where I am during the winter - frequently.

      This system sounds like hell if it's cold, and/or if your battery is low. Get a jump, start the car... and it turns itself off again. Soo, you've got to drive around to keep it going to make the engine actually run. All the while, the cold weather wear and tear on an engine that hasn't warmed up takes its toll - particularly at highway speeds.

      Also, cold engine performance (in terms of power output and fuel economy) is significantly worse. Unless they put temperature regulators in there to make it not shut off if it's under a certain temperature (a sensible decision), you're going to see people a) not buying the vehicle, or b) buying it and disabling the 'feature'.

      I would think they'd have to invent/discover better cold-weather fluids for something like this to work effectively. However, that's likely to decrease the life of the vehicle in warm weather driving...

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    21. Re:Fuel-Saving? by ceazare · · Score: 1

      Most newer lambda probes (the type of O2 sensors used in cars) have heaters. It takes a couple of minutes for the sensor to warm without one, depending on the temperature outside.

    22. Re:Fuel-Saving? by R.Mo_Robert · · Score: 1

      the silence when you stand still at a red light

      Reminds me of the story last week of how the US wanted to make hybrids louder. I hope it was only when they were driving, not idling, but I can see some moronic legislation coming out of this, too.

      --
      R.Mo
    23. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Maybe, do you think just maybe, Ford might have thought about that and put a special case instruction in the ECU to oh, I don't know, not do that? Just a thought

      Maybe, do you think just maybe, there's a reason cars do that in the first place and it's not fucking possible to run efficiently on a cold engine?

    24. Re:Fuel-Saving? by 14erCleaner · · Score: 2

      Yes, it's a myth. According to this article, the break-even point is somewhere around 10 seconds.

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    25. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Lehk228 · · Score: 1

      there may also be a difference between a cold start and a hot start

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    26. Re:Fuel-Saving? by cjanota · · Score: 1

      That is true for engines with carburetors. A fuel injected engine would only use the same amount for a few minutes at idle if you were cranking it for a few minutes. When you are actually cranking the engine, it uses about the same amount of fuel as is needed to idle.

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    27. Re:Fuel-Saving? by quacking+duck · · Score: 1

      That's exactly what I do (but if it's winter, then only when the car's warmed up). The only catch is during the night--do I shut off my headlights or not? They're a significant drain on the battery, which isn't robust to begin with on my 2008 sub-compact, and I'm already sensing hesitation when cold-starting at -10C or below.

      My compromise is to leave the parking lights on if I'm stopped at the head of the pack--at least this way cars on the other side don't flash their high-beams at me, thinking I've forgotten to turn my lights on.

    28. Re:Fuel-Saving? by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      >Where do you live? It gets down to -20F where I am during the winter - frequently.

      Instead of spending your money on a new car which is of an inappropriate design for your climate, perhaps you should consider moving someplace fit for human habitation.

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    29. Re:Fuel-Saving? by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      Inefficiency is measured by the amount of fuel remaining in the tank at the end of a quarter mile.

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    30. Re:Fuel-Saving? by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      Make their machines reset their passwords on boot -- to a password they don't know.
      Eventually they will stop shutting them down.

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    31. Re:Fuel-Saving? by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      But if the starter bendix or brushes or whatever requires an engine pull, will the fuel savings add up to the repair bill for the incredible amount of extra wear-and-tear to the starter? Obviously TFA implies a more optimized starter than what is typically used, right?

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    32. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      On fuel injected cars

      As opposed to what?

    33. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      from that PDF brochure...

      Avoiding 5 minutes of idling each day can save $35 every year

      soo... that'd break down to about $10-15 per winter to have a nice toasty-warm car to get into every day it's really cold. that's money well spent! new car even has a remote starter that works from desk-to-parking-lot.

    34. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      You can disable that you know.

      Unwire the power switch by unplugging it, disable the user ability of choosing shutdown. Really easy to do you know.

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    35. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Lumpy · · Score: 2

      Cars have not had a Cold Start injector for 20 years. current cars made withing the past 8 years have not done what you say either. This is true of older cars or cars that have a carb though.

      Honestly, ECM systems in cars are way way smarter than you are used to, any modern car are within closed loop in 3 seconds, most cars have heated O2 sensors that are there instantly and the open loop is adjusted based on sensors that can be read instantly.

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    36. Re:Fuel-Saving? by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      This system sounds like hell if it's cold, and/or if your battery is low. Get a jump, start the car... and it turns itself off again. Soo, you've got to drive around to keep it going to make the engine actually run. All the while, the cold weather wear and tear on an engine that hasn't warmed up takes its toll - particularly at highway speeds.

      Fortunately the automotive engineers at Ford and other companies - who, incidentally, already sell tons of these cars in North Europe, where its freezing - aren't complete morons. The engine control software already has access to the temperature of the outside air, the inside air, and the engine oil and coolant. What on Earth makes you think that they'd build it in such a primitive manner?

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    37. Re:Fuel-Saving? by Machtyn · · Score: 1

      I think most of the time, Mythbusters is redundant. But they're still fun to watch!

    38. Re:Fuel-Saving? by SleazyRidr · · Score: 1

      My god you're right! Putting in two sensors to tell if the engine is warm and if there's enough battery power to restart the engine are totally insurmountable engineering challenges. Maybe in 20 years when scientists have found ways to measure temperature and charge we could start using this feature.

  4. Would be great for the EPA to consider by Super+Dave+Osbourne · · Score: 1

    a lot of things like driving habits and terrain when considering the efficiency of the car. The EPA isn't in the business of doing the right thing, its in business.

    1. Re:Would be great for the EPA to consider by icebike · · Score: 1

      Terrain.

      Yikes, starting after a stoplight on an up-hill street could get tricky.

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    2. Re:Would be great for the EPA to consider by WebManWalking · · Score: 1

      Well, I'd have to say Torain has more drive than Portis. But neither one shuts off his engine.

    3. Re:Would be great for the EPA to consider by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      How so? As you let of the brake and let the clutch out the engine starts. Seems simple enough.

    4. Re:Would be great for the EPA to consider by icebike · · Score: 1

      Car rolls back into car behind you.

      You ever been to San Francisco?

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    5. Re:Would be great for the EPA to consider by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      I think you are framing the idea of TFA in terms of your own car that isn't designed the same way. Driving the car in TFA will be no different from the way you drive now, even in SF. It won't be the sketchy, panicky stopping/restarting with the key while trying to negotiate the clutch, brake and gas pedal that you seem to be envisioning.

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  5. I love the American way... by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

    ... "If it's not being tested or measured, it's not worth doing".

    1. Re:I love the American way... by ultranova · · Score: 2

      ... "If it's not being tested or measured, it's not worth doing".

      That's a great way. I wish more people - especially politicians - would require actual measurable results, rather than simply latching onto an ideology and basing all their decisions on that, no matter what the results are.

      --

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    2. Re:I love the American way... by icebike · · Score: 1

      Certainly not in any large way.

      Manufacture half a million new cars with feature X, only to find you have half a million lemons to scrap.

      There are thousands of experimental cars running around the US. Running on everything from battery power, fuel cells, to hydrogen.

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    3. Re:I love the American way... by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

      Well, I could rewrite to say: "If it's not being tested or measured by the government, it's not worth caring about".

      Just because it isn't tested by EPA, doesn't mean it's a stupid thing to do.

      Imagine if Ford had done this 10 years ago, and rumor had spread among car owners that "those non-hippie gasoline/diesel powered cars from Ford are really energy efficient". Perhaps they would have a larger market share today.

      Of course, that requires thinking that goes beyond the next quarterly earnings report - something that's often hard to do for such companies.

    4. Re:I love the American way... by zippthorne · · Score: 1

      But something that Ford is demonstrably capable of: they did not receive TARP money like the dinosaurs down the street, precisely because they recognized in the early oughts, the need for more fuel efficient, reliable cars. (although that may just have been due to being sick of all the "found on road, dead" jokes in the 90s...)

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    5. Re:I love the American way... by mindstormpt · · Score: 3, Interesting

      That was not what he meant. The technology is tried and testes. Maybe half of the cars around me use it. It works, it's reliable, and it undeniably saves gas/emissions. The problem here is that it doesn't save so much gas on the EPA test track. As such, it's not worth it - no matter the environmental benefits in the real world.

    6. Re:I love the American way... by icebike · · Score: 1

      If you can't measure the saving, then how can you assert that there are any?

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    7. Re:I love the American way... by Ebbesen · · Score: 2

      RTFA. It says American car makers haven't implemented the technology, because it isn't tested by the EPA when rating the efficiency.

      Everybody knows it improves efficiency. But because it isn't a part of the test, it's not implemented.

    8. Re:I love the American way... by icebike · · Score: 1

      There are serious questions as to whether it improves efficiency. In spite of the love of all things euro, there seems to be no real world real traffic tests of this in cold weather environments with frequent heavy start-stop traffic.

      The suggested reason why US car makers haven't implemented it was simply someone's opinion. Auto makers have never actually stated this.

      In US driving, with US distances, this would save nothing, because there are very few stops on freeways.

      In US urban centers with frequent stops saving may be illusionary because depleted batteries in bumper to bumper stop start traffic have to be recharged by running the engine higher or longer.

      In short, I suspect the Euro tests are a just-so story, where it works for them in a very narrow test case, but has never been actually measured in real world situations on their roads by typical drivers.

      There is no inherent reason to trust the Euro test track mileage measures and more than the US measures. There is every reason to believe their measures are as flawed as our own, even for their own streets, but certainly for ours.

       

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    9. Re:I love the American way... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      "The technology is tried and testes"

      Testes.

    10. Re:I love the American way... by DuckDodgers · · Score: 1

      This is a government problem, not an industry problem. Adding this feature to vehicles has a cost - if it was cheap, BMW, Toyota, Honda, Mercedes, Volkswagen, or some other automaker would offer it in their American lineup already.

      The solution is to modify the US government fuel economy ratings system so that it takes into account stop and go driving. Then this move will become an effective way to boost Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) ratings.

    11. Re:I love the American way... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      bullshit It's more expensive without any benefit to Ford. Hence, that's why they hadn't been doing it. Sure, it saves the real driver 10% on fuel economy, but Ford isn't allowed to advertise it. This helps a lot. Yes, it costs an extra $100-200, However, if the EPA would do like the european agencies and give credit for it, it would be done immediately to help CAFE compliance.

    12. Re:I love the American way... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      The technology is tried and testes.

      Bollocks!

    13. Re:I love the American way... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The technology is tried and testes.

      Bollocks!

    14. Re:I love the American way... by purpledinoz · · Score: 1

      I think market forces are more at work. In Europe, gas is really damn expensive, over 1.40 Euro per liter ($1.80 US/L or about $7/gallon). Therefore, people are very aware of fuel efficiency. Features like this helps sell cars, because it can save consumers a lot of money, even though it might add a couple hundred euros to the price of the car. In the US, gas is still cheap so people (talking about the average joe, not slashdotters) don't really care about fuel economy. Adding a feature like this won't sell much more cars, so it's probably better to spend the effort on advertising or something else. In my opinion, the EPA shouldn't mandate these things as it's very high effort and not the most effective. If gas tax was increased, I think you would see people start conserving fuel very quickly. Remember how fast people stopped buying SUVs when gas prices spike a few years ago?

    15. Re:I love the American way... by YttriumOxide · · Score: 1

      There are serious questions as to whether it improves efficiency. In spite of the love of all things euro, there seems to be no real world real traffic tests of this in cold weather environments with frequent heavy start-stop traffic.

      The suggested reason why US car makers haven't implemented it was simply someone's opinion. Auto makers have never actually stated this.

      In US driving, with US distances, this would save nothing, because there are very few stops on freeways.

      In US urban centers with frequent stops saving may be illusionary because depleted batteries in bumper to bumper stop start traffic have to be recharged by running the engine higher or longer.

      In short, I suspect the Euro tests are a just-so story, where it works for them in a very narrow test case, but has never been actually measured in real world situations on their roads by typical drivers.

      There is no inherent reason to trust the Euro test track mileage measures and more than the US measures. There is every reason to believe their measures are as flawed as our own, even for their own streets, but certainly for ours.

      You seem to be assuming that it's just been "tested" here in Europe but hasn't yet had much real world exposure. I assure you that that's totally incorrect. The vast majority of new vehicles here have this feature implemented and there's been plenty of real-world exposure.

      Also, your assumptions about "driving distances" are a common misconception. While it's true that US drivers do drive longer distances on average than Europeans and also the occasional "much longer" drive, it's not as dramatic as you might think. You're right that these longer "non-stop" trips tend to reduce the usefulness of this measure, but you can't tell me ALL your driving is highway/freeway - you've got to get TO the highway and then FROM it afterwards - during these times, it'll be giving benefits.

      I live in North-Western Germany (Lower Saxony) and a good number of my work colleagues live a significant distance from the office and do drive every day. Due to a company merger about 7 years ago, many of them still live in the region of where one of the old companies was located and travel close to 90km to the office each day. That is admittedly a more extreme case, but MANY people live in smaller towns around major centres and travel around 30km to the office each day, it's really not uncommon (I personally hate the idea and always try to live within 15km at maximum, but that's just my preference).

      Also, as for the "longer" drives, I'm not averse to jumping in my car and heading to the Czech Republic every now and then, which is a good 500km or so. Again, not a "multi day" trip, but hardly a really short trip.

      Addressing your first point of "cold environments with frequent heavy start-stop traffic: clearly you've never seen what the Autobahn can look like in mid-winter when a large truck has caused an accident and blocked a couple of lanes!

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    16. Re:I love the American way... by jimicus · · Score: 1, Insightful

      That was not what he meant. The technology is tried and testes.

      That's a load of balls.

    17. Re:I love the American way... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That was not what he meant. The technology is tried and testes...

      Ow, ow, ow.

    18. Re:I love the American way... by jawtheshark · · Score: 1

      I live in Luxembourg. I've had two of co-workers drive 150 to work and another 150km from work every day. (One was from Namur, the other from Sarguemines) While those are exceptions, 100km/each way is very common. The reason? Luxembourg has high wages, but even higher real estate prices. So they work here and live where it's cheaper. Commutes in Europe can be quite long too....

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    19. Re:I love the American way... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So yo are say this idea has balls? :-)

    20. Re:I love the American way... by imjustabigcat · · Score: 1

      Exactly; the EPA test track is only good as a baseline measurement. Granted, it is impossible to define "average" driving conditions versus having precise control on a test track, but it would be of great use to have professional drivers test vehicles in a series of defined driving environments over a period of time and use the average results. This would be a far better reflection of real mileage versus the ideal (and totally unrealistic) test track. We have test pilots, why not test drivers which are responsible for similar levels of care in measurement and reporting? Perhaps an industry lab that is funded by all automakers selling cars in the U.S. with government-defined test conditions and federal inspectors reading and giving a critique on the results?

      I regularly get 25 MPG or better in my 1996 Cadillac DeVille, which isn't bad for an 8-cylinder, 275 HP engine in a 3,800 lb vehicle, and I can get 40 MPG in my 1999 Honda Accord if I am on a long road trip, driving carefully (4-cylinder ULEV-rated VTEC powerplant). The EPA estimates for both vehicles are considerably lower. In fact, the Cadillac gets 30 MPG on 2 hour trips over rolling hills at 70 miles per hour, something that most people would never believe of a vehicle that is regularly used as an example of a gas hog. It's not, and it's a great example of what good engineering can already achieve. Some people have measured 65 MPG or better in their Volkswagen diesels, and Honda sells a diesel in Japan and Europe that gets better than 50 MPG. Why do we need to be spending inordinate amounts on hybrid vehicles that have toxic battery packs that need replacing every seven to ten years? The technology to do better is already available on standard powerplants.

      Just because the EPA is unwilling to change its methodology to account for advances in technology, we have automakers shelving perfectly good ideas. Exactly what is so hard about changing protocols? It's not like we don't have well-qualified people available to make this happen, and many of them work for automakers. I bet Ford and GM would be happy to have a place to show off what they can do for mileage improvement; it might even help generate sales, and since we're trying to create jobs, what are we waiting for?

  6. Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by bobdotorg · · Score: 1

    How many cycles will a flywheel driving starter motor / solenoid setup last?

    TFA doesn't mention what will be used, but a spring / torsion system that captured the rotational inertia of the engine to stop it, and then used that stored energy to restart the engine would be great for warm restarts.

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    1. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by kimvette · · Score: 1

      Replacing the starter is cheap and easy enough on most engines (with the exception of the LT5, where GM marketing departments bonehead requirements demanded the same bore spacing as the smallblock so the starter sits in the lifter valley underneath the intake plenum - a royal pain in the ass to swap it out). It's certainly much cheaper and easier to replace than the other parts that excessive start/stop cycles will destroy: the bearings, lifters, valves stems, and so on. In other words, the engine will be an expensive casualty of this "feature" and the material/oil/pollution costs of building a new engine to replace the worn out one will more than offset any theoretical savings. Of course, if they're smart enough to include a dry sump oiling system to pre-pressurize the oiling system prior to start up, it's a non-issue. Just make the starter easy to replace; or more specifically, design the starter to be in an accessible location with the brushes replaceable by swapping out a cartridge.

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    2. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by DogDude · · Score: 1

      "How many cycles will a flywheel driving starter motor / solenoid setup last?"

      Considering that the starter is always the first thing I have to replace, even on Hondas and Toyotas, I'd be really hesitant to get a car with this "feature" in it.

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    3. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

      I was actually reading about a method they were implementing that required no starter usage, pretty much they placed an accurate rotational sensor on the engine and when it is brought to a stop the pistons are placed in a calculated position awaiting a fuel charge. At that point all it takes is a squirt of the injectors and a spark to turn things back over. From complete stop to start almost instantaneously. Modern electronics are some seriously cool stuff.

    4. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by ChrisMaple · · Score: 1

      Or use a brushless starter.

      Mankind has been making cars for over a century now. We should have figured out and fixed all wearout mechanisms, except tires.

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    5. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      You really don't need a starter for a car like this. As in many electric cars, you can combine the starter and alternator into a single unit, and place it directly on the crankshaft.

    6. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by LiENUS · · Score: 1

      At that point all it takes is a squirt of the injectors and a spark to turn things back over. From complete stop to start almost instantaneously.

      The awaiting fuel charge position is known as the intake stroke, you need a power stroke to run, how is having the pistons on the intake stroke beneficial at all? and you can't inject and get compression at tdc before the power stroke. You'd have to stop with the intake charge in already in the cylinder and compressed. Workable for brief stops but the cylinders will bleed down relatively quickly.

    7. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      I'd love to know what the GP considers the inherent problems with bearings valves and lifters etc.
      For some motors, starting seems to be quite a catastrophic event, but motors that are designed from the beginning to have frequent start/stop cycles seem to do fine.

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    8. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      Maybe it's a problem with engines that actually have "lifters".

      I think, in reality, there is no problem at all, and people like the GP are simply misinformed or just dumb. Yes, starting does produce more wear when the engine is ice-cold and the oil is mostly in the pan (except, even then, there's a film on everything that never goes away, especially with today's synthetic oils). However, the thing most of these dummies don't seem to understand is that with frequent stop/start cycles, the engine never cools down! It's weird that here on Slashdot, people have such a bad understanding of basic physics that they think an engine becomes ice-cold 30 seconds after turning off.

    9. Re:Starter / solenoid setup, or something simpler? by multipartmixed · · Score: 1

      "bleed down relatively quickly" - That's the real question now, isn't it?

      If they can arrange to stop the engine at, or just past, TDC, with a rich-ish mixture in the cylinder, they will be able to re-start the engine with one fat spark.

      So, since we're at TDC, the valves should be closed and sealing well. How long does it take for a leak-down test to bleed out on a WARM engine in good condition? It bet it would take a good five minutes.

      Remember, when you're doing a leak-down test in the shop, you're doing it on a cold engine, the rings won't be sealing as well. I bet they will also use rings with a very, very small end gap at operating temp. And on a warm engine, you're not waiting for fuel/air to run out between the ring end gaps, you're waiting for it to push the oil out first. A taller piston skirt and/or increased oil ring count could extend the time the cylinder will hold the intake charge.

      --

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  7. in some parking lots by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    Particularly outside fast food restaurants or supermarkets, sometimes it seems that there are drivers in most of the "parked" cars, eating meals, talking on the phone, or waiting for the passenger to emerge from the store. And usually the car is idling. That's a fair amount of cash going out the tailpipe right there.

  8. Why hasn't it been done before? by guanxi · · Score: 2

    Automakers have been reluctant to add the feature to cars in the U.S. because the testing method that the Environmental Protection Agency uses to determine fuel efficiency ratings doesn't include many stops and thus doesn't recognize the technology's effectiveness.

    When I asked the question several years ago, a Ford engineer told me that they didn't implement it because non-hybrid cars didn't have enough battery capacity. I know that each start drains a car battery, and then the battery recharges as you drive (even in standard, all-gas-powered, non-hybrid cars). I inferred from his statement that standard car batteries wouldn't recharge quickly enough to provide capacity for frequent restarts. That would make sense; designing that much capacity into standard batteries would be a waste.

    Does anyone know the truth? Was the engineer full of it? Is Ford using higher-capacity and/or faster-charging batteries? Don't tell me to RTFA, because I did and know enough not to take everything at face value.

    1. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Ebbesen · · Score: 5, Informative

      Well, Volkswagen made the Lupo back in the 90s. It was able to achieve 78 miles to the US gallon with a 1.2L diesel engine.

      So, I guess he's full of it, if the battery pack on the big American cars are unable to store enough energy.

    2. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by DerekLyons · · Score: 1

      As I've sometimes tried to start my car a dozen times or more at a time because of one problem or another, I suspect he's full of it. Not to mention it would be easy enough to implement a battery voltage detection system that disable the system if their is not sufficient charge.

    3. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by guanxi · · Score: 1

      Well, Volkswagen made the Lupo back in the 90s. It was able to achieve 78 miles to the US gallon with a 1.2L diesel engine

      Did the Lupo use 'Start-Stop'? And how big was its battery?

    4. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by guanxi · · Score: 1

      As I've sometimes tried to start my car a dozen times or more at a time because of one problem or another, I suspect he's full of it. Not to mention it would be easy enough to implement a battery voltage detection system that disable the system if their is not sufficient charge.

      Both good points. I'd also consider that 'Start-Stop' would have to be able to restart the car much more than a dozen times in a trip around the city.

    5. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well one would assume one would look at the battery charge level (guess) and the heat requirements, and outside temp etc, before turning the engine OFF. Frankly this isn't rocket science even a prius will run the engine to provide enough heat energy in cold situations.

    6. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by denzo · · Score: 1

      A good deep-cycle battery with a good cold cranking amps rating would be able to handle this just fine. But car manufacturers tend to prefer the cheapest parts possible to get a car on the road, so he was probably speaking more in economics than in possibility.

    7. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

      Did use start-stop.

      Don't know about the battery specs, but from I've been able to google in the last 5 minutes, it looks like a totally normal car battery.

    8. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by GWBasic · · Score: 1

      Does anyone know the truth? Was the engineer full of it? Is Ford using higher-capacity and/or faster-charging batteries? Don't tell me to RTFA, because I did and know enough not to take everything at face value.

      My guess is that it requires a different kind of starter. My 2003 Civic Hybrid has this feature; but the reason why it works is that there's a 15hp dynamo built into the engine block.

    9. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by MayonakaHa · · Score: 1

      A quick Google search shows the Lupo 3L had start/stop technology. The battery size I'm unsure of but I believe it uses the same size as the other model Lupo cars, which would make it a 12v 60Ah. Varta's website shows their "Start-Stop Plus" batteries have those specs and are made for start-stop systems.

    10. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

      I found this: http://www.tayna.co.uk/063-Numax-Car-Battery-P937.html

      Specs:
      Voltage - 12V
      Capacity - 44Ah
      CCA(SAE) - 360A

      Dimensions(mm)
      210 x 175 x 175

      Does not look special at all.

    11. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Lupo

      Yes, it uses start/stop, and by the size of the car, I doubt it has a mega battery in it, it's a 2 door car!

    12. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by screwzloos · · Score: 1

      Current (mainstream) automotive batteries are a lot more willing to discharge than they are to charge. You can probably run your starter for a minute or two before the battery is dead, but if you tried to charge it that fast not only would it not hold the charge, but it would likely overheat and explode. Automotive alternators (the thing keeping your battery charged) are built with this in mind. They provide relatively little current over a longer period of time. Also keep in mind that making a larger alternator to overcome this would drop the efficiency of the engine.

      Starting and stopping the engine repeatedly in any situation would not work out. The only place this kind of thing would work is if you have infrequent, long stops.

    13. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well, it's a very small engine. Maybe that means that the battery needs to provide less power to turn it over during a start. I can imagine that a big V8 would require more power.

    14. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      For one thing, the starter for a diesel is not the same as a starter for a gasoline engine.

    15. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by rbollinger · · Score: 1

      Yes and we all know how huge Honda had to make the Insight to hold it's battery.

    16. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My last Government Motors car used to had half that system. Every time I came to a stop, it would stall. The "start" part of the equation was always questionable, though.

    17. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by MyFirstNameIsPaul · · Score: 1

      A deep cycle battery is not a good cranking battery. There are three types of chemistries for lead acid:

      Motive Power - this chemistry is most effective at providing enormous amounts of current for very short periods of time, say up to 60 seconds, but usually less than 30. The most common application is starting piston engines. It is generally intended to be drained to not less than 80% of capacity before being recharged.

      Power Supply - this chemistry is designed to provide small amounts of current for long periods of time, say 15 minutes to many hours, and be drained all the way down before being recharged.

      Standby - this chemistry is used for UPS type applications. It has a low cycle life but can last longer than UPS batteries when not in use, so it is more likely to be available when needed while reducing replacement costs.

      The primary cause of the differences is that to economically produce a battery the lead must be an alloy or else it is impossible to make without spending incredible amounts of money on a robotic plant. While the primary alloying agent in all types described is Calcium, there are several other ingredients used in very small quantities - this is the 'secret sauce' for battery manufacturers and finding out exactly how much and of what they put in is very difficult.

      The statement by the engineer is correct as the battery sizes are not designed for so many starts. The primary issue of concern is that when a battery is not recharged fully it forms hard sulfation on the plates, which eventually leads to battery failure, and lead-acid batteries cannot safely be recharged at high rates, so there is a minimum time to recharge the battery.

      An additional concern that I'm not seeing listed is that lead-acid batteries do not have a very good cycle life. Depending on how much the battery is drained, it may have a cycle life of only 500 cycles. This is a limitation of the technology. Even at 1000 cycles, it's hard to see a battery lasting much more than a year.

      --

      I once took an excursion to Reddit, and later HN. Unlimited up/down voting sucks when dealing with a hive-mind.

    18. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

      Of course a V8 requires more power to start.

      But if you're driving a V8, you apparently doesn't care about gas consumption, and the 5-10% saving that start-stop provides doesn't matter.

      For the eco-friendly and/or guy on a budget, 5-10% gas saving annually on your commuting matters.

    19. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by 0123456 · · Score: 1

      My last Government Motors car used to had half that system. Every time I came to a stop, it would stall. The "start" part of the equation was always questionable, though.

      My 1982 Fiat had that system too. I never realised that it was 30 years ahead of its time.

    20. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

      The statement by the engineer is correct as the battery sizes are not designed for so many starts. The primary issue of concern is that when a battery is not recharged fully it forms hard sulfation on the plates, which eventually leads to battery failure, and lead-acid batteries cannot safely be recharged at high rates, so there is a minimum time to recharge the battery.

      An additional concern that I'm not seeing listed is that lead-acid batteries do not have a very good cycle life. Depending on how much the battery is drained, it may have a cycle life of only 500 cycles. This is a limitation of the technology. Even at 1000 cycles, it's hard to see a battery lasting much more than a year.

      The only thing wrong with this, otherwise well thought-out, statement is the fact that there's hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of cars with this technology on the roads today.

      I somehow think, that it would have been in the news if people owning a MINI, a BMW, a Toyota or VW with this technology had to replace their battery once a year. For some reason, it doesn't seem to be the case.

    21. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by the_humeister · · Score: 1

      Maybe, maybe not. It depends on how often the engine is turned off an restarted. I do it on my MkV Jetta at stoplights where I know it will be a while before the light changes. But I also have a Scangauge to monitor battery voltage. And if I do it at night when I have to keep the headlights on, I always hook up the battery to a float charger. It saves quite a bit of fuel. I can get 30+mpg city from a car rated at 21 mpg city. Not too bad.

    22. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by aclarke · · Score: 1

      Ford can just put in a higher capacity alternator if they need to. They can also set the start/stop tech to not stop the vehicle if the battery's amperage is low, which measn the engine can keep running to recharge the battery if necessary.

      Some companies, including VW and BMW, are putting out some innovative hybrid-like systems in their non-hybrid cars. For example, one model of the new Passat has regenerative braking which is used to charge the battery. The battery is slightly larger than in a normal gas vehicle, although nothing like it would be in a hybrid. There are also systems that recharge the battery through a photovoltaic system built into the moonroof. Then the batteries run systems that are usually run hydraulically off the engine, like the power steering system. This reduces engine load which increases fuel economy. This is a much cheaper system than a true hybrid while providing many of the same fuel economy benefits in the real world. The point is, there are lots of ways of dealing with the increased battery draw from the additional starts.

    23. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Golden_Rider · · Score: 1

      Well one would assume one would look at the battery charge level (guess) and the heat requirements, and outside temp etc, before turning the engine OFF. Frankly this isn't rocket science even a prius will run the engine to provide enough heat energy in cold situations.

      Exactly, that all is taken into consideration on the already existing systems (e.g. Volkswagen Bluemotion): as long as the engine is cold, it will not be turned off, same if the battery is low. And you can override the system via a button. Also, the starter motor and other components are designed for the extra wear, see for example http://www.bosch-presse.de/presseforum/details.htm?txtID=3042&locale=en

    24. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Mr+Z · · Score: 1

      Well... starting a little 1.2L diesel engine is a bit different than starting, say, a 5.7L V8, for example. But, the battery in said V8 isn't 4 times the capacity the battery in the Lupo, I'm willing to bet.

    25. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Uh yeah and it had 50% less horsepower than my old Escort L which took over a minute to get to 60 MPH. The Lupo sounds like a dangerous tin can.

    26. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by 0123456 · · Score: 1

      But if you're driving a V8, you apparently doesn't care about gas consumption, and the 5-10% saving that start-stop provides doesn't matter.

      Except that on past experience, nonsense like this will soon be mandated by the government whether or not we want it.

      For the eco-friendly and/or guy on a budget, 5-10% gas saving annually on your commuting matters.

      If you're 'eco-friendly' then you won't be commuting far and will be driving an economy car, so saving 5-10% on your commuting won't even pay your monthly WoW subscription.

    27. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Rhywden · · Score: 1

      If you honestly think that you actually need four times the capacity, then I'd suggest getting you V8 to a mechanic fast.

      Starting an engine is a tiny bit different that using the engine's torque to propel the vehicle forward.

    28. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by MyFirstNameIsPaul · · Score: 1

      Do you happen to know what battery comes stock on the vehicles using start-stop? A pure lead battery could handle the load, but those are usually 2-3 times the price of a lead alloy battery. And of course something like LiFePO4 would do really well in the application.

      --

      I once took an excursion to Reddit, and later HN. Unlimited up/down voting sucks when dealing with a hive-mind.

    29. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      I inferred from his statement that standard car batteries wouldn't recharge quickly enough to provide capacity for frequent restarts. That would make sense; designing that much capacity into standard batteries would be a waste.

      I drive a diesel with two 1200mah batteries. I've got a voltmeter on the dash. On a cold start (glow plugs switched on for 12-13 seconds) I lose about 1-2 volts of potential energy/significant mAh. Doing that, repeatedly, in cold weather, sounds horrendous. Those batteries would die from over-cycling quite quickly.

      If you could mitigate the cold weather effect, lithium based batteries might do it. But, just the same, I'd personally not risk it.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    30. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yes, I realize that you don't need 4x the capacity. But the point is more that the battery is sized to the needs of the problem.

    31. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Or you could insulate your batteries in the winter. I mean, you could probably even *heat* them with the excess electricity your alternator is dumping.

    32. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by guanxi · · Score: 1

      Except that on past experience, nonsense like this will soon be mandated by the government whether or not we want it.

      I know what you mean. Why can't we dump as much carbon as we want into the atmosphere, just like we should be free to dump raw sewage wherever we please? This 'germ theory' is a conspiracy of doctors and scientists to sell disinfectant!

    33. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Rovaani · · Score: 1

      He was, and he wasn't. If you specify a stop-start system when ordering a new car you also get a beefier battery automatically. The systems also monitor engine temperature and current running time and do not stop the engine if the engine hasn't been running continuously for at least 10 minutes after the start of the drive, or the engine temperature isn't high enough.

      --
      Karma: Good! Napster: Baad!
    34. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My KIA who has this features is equipped with

      a) a little bit stronger battery because it is quite favorable if everything can keep on running while the engine is starting up (in some cars the radio is still disconnected from power when starting up etc.).
      b) a little bit more sturdy starter, as the number of starts increase significantly and a "normal" low priced starter in lower priced cars might not do a couple of ten thousand starts

    35. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by amorsen · · Score: 1

      They aren' planning on retrofitting it on vintage cars like yours. I should think the larger problem for you will be getting out and hand cranking your engine at the stop lights. I mean, pre-heating the glow plugs, what exactly are you driving?

      Don't hold the rest of us back though.

      --
      Finally! A year of moderation! Ready for 2019?
    36. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by jimicus · · Score: 1

      Well, Volkswagen made the Lupo back in the 90s. It was able to achieve 78 miles to the US gallon with a 1.2L diesel engine.

      So, I guess he's full of it, if the battery pack on the big American cars are unable to store enough energy.

      That isn't an unusual level of fuel economy in Europe. It's just we don't have a phobia of small diesel engines.

    37. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by sznupi · · Score: 1

      Yes, it's a harder work (also from the battery, I would imagine) to start a diesel.

      --
      One that hath name thou can not otter
    38. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by sznupi · · Score: 1

      Too bad we have a philia of large numbers next to HP - hence small diesels apparently "need to" be turbocharged nowadays.

      Which isn't that much of an improvement in practice, for a type of engines which already had good torque at wide range of RPM. Can add a bit of a turbo lag, actually. It does add lots of complexity and opportunities for costly failures. New tech often not going towards improvements of fuel economy per se, but maintaining it at a mostly constant level while giving higher number next to HP.

      I shudder for the day when Fabia with VW SDI engine stops being viable.

      --
      One that hath name thou can not otter
    39. Re:Why hasn't it been done before? by SJP0tato · · Score: 1

      There was an article a few months ago about manufacturers coming up with a way to stop the engine in a specific orientation so it could be started with just a normal ignition event eliminating an external starter motor. Maybe that'll factor into the solution?

  9. This would only increase engine wear. by NimbleSquirrel · · Score: 1

    It is a known fact (maybe not widely known) that a very large propotion of engine wear occurs in the first few seconds after startup. When the engine is stopped, gravity pulls oil back down to the sump, and the oil pump takes thise seconds after startup to redistribute oil around the engine to vital moving parts. I also suspect that will increse the thermal shock loading on the engine, especially as the O rings will suffer a much greater number of heating/cooling cycles than in a regular engine.

    The conspiracy theorist in me says that this is just a way for manufacturers to increase their revenues for ongoing maintenance (as these engines WILL need far more regular maintenance cycles) while selling it to consumers as being environmentally friendly. I doubt Ford will let anyone aside from their dealers touch these engines.

    A far better solution would be to make the engines super efficient at idle (whether this is by shutting down cylinder firing or by other low friction means). This would keep the oil in the engine moving, and would keep the engine relatively warm.

    1. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Gordonjcp · · Score: 1

      When the engine is stopped, gravity pulls oil back down to the sump
      ... if you leave it for several minutes. Stop a car engine and immediately turn the key back on. How long does it take for the oil pressure light to go off? If it's less than about 30 seconds, your engine is badly worn. At that point there's still a good, deep film of oil on the bearing surfaces - there's just no pressure to force more in immediately.

    2. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by newcastlejon · · Score: 1

      Yes, startup from cold. The engine is stopped for brief enough periods to mitigate problems with oil cooling or flowing away from where it's needed. Also, what do you mean by O-rings? I can tell you that the things sealing the pistons against the cylinder are called piston rings. O-rings are usually rubber and they're used in the same situations as gaskets.

      --
      If God forks the Universe every time you roll a die, he'd better have a damned good memory.
    3. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

      If it wasn't Ford I'd suggest they had added a small electric oil pump to keep the head wet.

      Given that it is Ford I'd suggest that all they are thinking is 'Start-Stop' will be better then 'Stop-break-leak-fall apart-blow smoke-rust'.

      --
      John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
    4. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

      We all know how American cars compare to the rest of the auto industry when it comes to reliability.

      BMW, VW, Toyota and other brands manage to apply this technology without - apparantly - a huge increase in maintenance cost for the end-consumer.

      In a TCO showdown between a start-stop car from any of the three companies and a similarly priced American car, what car would you expect to come out on top?

    5. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by mangu · · Score: 4, Insightful

      The conspiracy theorist in me says that this is just a way for manufacturers to increase their revenues for ongoing maintenance (as these engines WILL need far more regular maintenance cycles)

      When was the last time you sold a car because the engine had worn out? As opposed to selling it because the body rattles, the upholstery is worn, the doors leak water when it rains, the paint is scratched, the windshield is cracked, plastic parts are broken, the dashboard is crumbling?

    6. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My first car was replaced due to the engine blowing smoke and the transmission leaking. I loved it, and would have restored it but it had been hit while parked at some point. The frame was straightened, but the outer body panels were slightly off-center. IMHO, it was not worth restoring so I donated it. They probably ended up parting it out or something, as the interior was actually quite clean, and a lot of other pieces were good.

      The next time I got rid of a car, it was an intermittant electrical problem which I had a feeling the local mechanics would not figure out. The car had a very low blue book value at that point, so... I went carless for a while before moving to California, where it would suck to be carless.

      My father usually traded them in when they still had enough blue book to make it worthwhile--single digit thousands, like 3 or 4 thousand.

      Then there is the story told to me of the Mazda with 300k+ miles on it. Ran like a champ, and it was a terrible shame when the final owner totaled it after a few weeks.

      Of course, these are just anecdotes. I don't think either one of us know what the "leading cause of death" is for cars.

    7. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by aclarke · · Score: 1

      Haha, I guess you don't drive GMs. Plus, usually when the engine wears out you usually aren't "selling" the car, which provides a bit of a false choice in your question.

      Anyway, if you're given to buying used Pontiacs (which I'm not), the engine wearing out is a fairly common end result.

    8. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by BrianRoach · · Score: 2

      Um, unless you're running zero weight oil in your car (you're not) ... it doesn't run like water back to the sump in 60 seconds.

      Your "known fact" is sort of correct when a car has been parked for some time (say, overnight) and you're cold starting it. But even that's a bit of a stretch these days with modern synthetic oils. Tear a motor down even after it's been sitting for weeks and you'll still find oil clinging to the bearing surfaces and pistons/cylinders.

    9. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by couchslug · · Score: 1

      Not necessarily. Warm restart isn't cold start, and engines take a long time to cool down. They won't shed much heat at stoplights.

      The solution to any potential problem is an EASY retrofit. A hydraulic accumulator can store oil pressure and be emptied to pressurize the lubrication system when the ignition key is turned.

      These have been out for many years:

      http://www.accusump.com/

      http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/ELECTRIC%20VALVE.pdf

      --
      "This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted here as fact."
    10. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by laffer1 · · Score: 1

      My first car was a 1987 Pontiac Grand Am (v6 3.0 liter). It went through 3 engine rebuilds (i was the owner for 2 of them). It happens.

    11. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      The conspiracy theorist in me says that this is just a way for manufacturers to increase their revenues for ongoing maintenance (as these engines WILL need far more regular maintenance cycles)

      When was the last time you sold a car because the engine had worn out? As opposed to selling it because the body rattles, the upholstery is worn, the doors leak water when it rains, the paint is scratched, the windshield is cracked, plastic parts are broken, the dashboard is crumbling?

      In the 1950s an engine was totally shot by 100,000 miles. But then, cars were a lot more affordable then (about 5% of gross pay). Do you really want to return to that, when the average car price is now 50% of the average gross pay for most people in this country (USA)?

    12. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      It (used to) happen quite often:

      * the engine and/or transmission leaks oil badly
      * a cylinder loses compression and it'd cost more to rebuild the engine

      Those are 'engine only' but you can bet that frequent start/stops will wear these components out more quickly, as well as the electrical system (plugs, distributor, solenoid, etc.) and fuel injection system (injectors, due to have fuel sitting 'in' them more frequently, fuel pump, etc.). For most people, these are expensive problems, but as a general rule it's a pain in the ass to replace any of them. By the time a vehicle reaches 5-7 years old, it's something worth selling the vehicle for and 'upgrading' instead of dealing with, for many/most people (who aren't mechanically inclined).

      Look at used, for-sale-by-owner vehicles. Many are in that 4-8 year range, first or second owner, with the original battery and engine problems under 120k.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    13. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Animats · · Score: 1

      It is a known fact (maybe not widely known) that a very large proportion of engine wear occurs in the first few seconds after startup.

      It wouldn't be a big issue for a minute or so of shutdown. The cylinder walls will still be wet.

      Many large engines (heavy equipment, locomotive, ship) have means for providing oil pressure prior to engine start. It's an available add-on for light aircraft. I'm not clear on why drag racers would want it; it's not like long engine life is a big issue in racing.

    14. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Those engines where shot at 50k miles, they also were total death traps. This is not going to ruin engines or we would have seen it in the Euro cars that already use it.

    15. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 1

      We all know how American cars compare to the rest of the auto industry when it comes to reliability.

      Then your template is at least a decade out-of-date with one of them.

      In a TCO showdown between a start-stop car from any of the three companies and a similarly priced American car, what car would you expect to come out on top?

      Ford.

      --
      Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
    16. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Me. I had a 1993 Ford Taurus, and after 13 years and 130,000 miles, the engine oil pressure had dropped to 8 psi. My choices were a new engine for $4000, or ditch the car. I ditched the car.

      Aside from the engine, everything else was in excellent condition. Original paint, no rust spots, no rattling, upholstery all intact, no leaking body, interior all intact. It was really kind of a shame; that was a damn good car aside from the whole "12 mpg in heavy traffic" and "engine had to be replaced" thing.

      I'm also kind of an oddity, especially in the USA. I keep my cars until they are "beyond repair", which I define as a single repair costing more than the car's own KBB value. I just got a $970 intake gasket replacement on a 1999 Chevy Malibu with 98,000 miles; most other people would ditch it and go $20,000 into debt for a new car. Not me. I'm saving so I can buy my next car with cash.

    17. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Long life no, but they do start and stop a lot. Blowing up the engine costs you the race.

    18. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 1

      I'm not clear on why drag racers would want it; it's not like long engine life is a big issue in racing.

      To provide ALL the lubrication for the engine.
        - No startup extra wear AT ALL on the bearings, keeping them smooth for the money run.
        - No load on the engine, saving all the horses for the power train.
        - Optimized pressure - high enough to handle the extra forces on the souped-up engine's bearings.
        - KISS.

      --
      Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
    19. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The conspiracy theorist in me says that this is just a way for manufacturers to increase their revenues for ongoing maintenance (as these engines WILL need far more regular maintenance cycles)

      When was the last time you sold a car because the engine had worn out? As opposed to selling it because the body rattles, the upholstery is worn, the doors leak water when it rains, the paint is scratched, the windshield is cracked, plastic parts are broken, the dashboard is crumbling?

      Every single car I've ever owned. Which is to say, two.

      Some of us don't buy new cars. We buy the used ones other people sell when their upholstery is worn, because we don't give a shit about the car other than its ability to take us from point A to point B. Why pay tens of thousands on a new car when you can buy one in relatively good condition for $3k? Yeah, eventually it breaks, but at the rate that I'm going I still haven't spent the equivalent money to buy a cheap new car in 20 years of driving, and that's not mentioning the savings in insurance.

    20. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      You've never had a BMW fixed in the US, I see.

    21. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      What in the hell are you driving?

      I always buy used, never had a problem with a car at less than 150k, never even owned a car newer than 5 years old. I sell when I start seeing repair bills. Cars at 50k miles in that age range cost a quarter the new car cost and have another 100k miles in them at least.

      You must be driving American cars. Germans, Asians those are the folks you should be buying cars from.

    22. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by demonlapin · · Score: 1

      (about 5% of gross pay)

      I'm not sure where you get that idea. From here, median household income in 1950 was $3200, while average was $4200. Do you think you could get a new car in 1950 for $200? (A quick Google suggests that $1600-$2000 is more like it.)

    23. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Lehk228 · · Score: 1

      my car is a 2003 ford, i just finished paying it off(bought used) and am now putting my car payments into a repair/replace fund, when that fund reaches $6000 i will buy a new car, when it reaches $0 i will buy another used car

      --
      Snowden and Manning are heroes.
    24. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      You are correct, I meant 1/5 which is 20%. My mistake.

    25. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Stop buying American cars and you won't have these problems. I only buy used in cash and keep until they cost a lot to repair, for this kind of person American cars do not make sense.

      My hope is tesla or another new automaker eventually makes a reliable American car.

    26. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by CAIMLAS · · Score: 1

      Actually, I was thinking of Japanese made cars in the 5-15 year-old range (Toyota, Subaru).

      My '84 Chevy truck with 180k is going strong, as is our 2000 Ford Focus, with 142k on the meter. The key thing here is maintenance: most people don't do it, or if they do it, do it wrong or too infrequently for it to help.

      --
      ~/ssh slashdot.org ssh: connect to host slashdot.org port 22: too many beers
    27. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by gmhowell · · Score: 1

      Your comments on this story have mostly been an intelligent breath of fresh air amongst all sorts of ignorance that would have slashdotters up in arms if it were displayed regarding computers.

      I love reading car stories, but I always want to hit myself in the head with a hammer after reading the comments. Thanks for slightly assuaging that.

      --
      Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
    28. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      Yikes, no. My daily driver is a '91 Volvo with more than 250,000 miles on it. It still accelerates nicely, very easily keeps up with the fastest pack on the interstate, and corners like the European sedan that it is. I don't really expect it to last much longer, but I know that to replace it with anything half as nice will cost far more than I can spend.

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    29. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      I try to look at a bigger picture. In 1950, the typical home was a 1200 sq. ft. 2-bed 1-bath. The typical family had one car. Maybe you had a phone. For entertainment, if you splurged, you had a credenza stereo. You saw the inside of a restaurant maybe twice a year. Without trying to be too precise about it, or even "adjusting for inflation" it should be easy to see how you could maintain a 1950s-style upper-middle class living on a single modest income.

      FWIW, the 1950 Bel-Air had a sticker price of about $1700. A Cadillac would run you about $2700.

      I think it's important to note that a family earning the median income in 1950 would probably not buy a new car. It is probably a lot more inconvenient today to not own a private car than it was in 1950 - remember that the whole idea of suburbia was still an emerging novelty and public transportation wasn't a taboo.

      Also, the elephant in the room for "median or average income". To see the demand curve for the *new car market* you need to look at average incomes for groups like white college graduates and WWII veterans.

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    30. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      You and me aren't in this group, but some people have different values, for example their car is an extension of their office, which is part of a confidence game they play with clients, which means it needs to be *impressive*. (This person should *lease*, since they can afford the depreciation on far more luxury than they could buy).

      Other people need a status symbol, for their own satisfaction or to accommodate their personal shortcomings. Other people need (actually need) a heavy duty truck.

      Things I need in a vehicle besides getting me from point A to point B:
      . Space for 2 keyboard instruments, 2 PA speakers, an equipment rack, and a dolly.
      . Room for 2 large dogs to stay happy for the duration of a 12 hour trip.
      . Points A and B in places like Whistler BC and Rocky Mountain National Park.

      My 1991 Volvo wagon fills this order extremely well, but I've got 250K miles on it and I don't know how much longer she will hold up :-(

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    31. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Reziac · · Score: 1

      In the 1950s, the "recommended" oil change interval was as high as 7500 miles. That alone will halve engine life.

      There are plenty of engines still around from that era, mostly with 200k or more miles, but I think you'll find what they all have in common is that they've had the oil changed religiously every 3000 miles.

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    32. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Reziac · · Score: 1

      My sister used to own a BMW. It came with its own mechanic.

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    33. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Obviously you never owned a Land Rover...!

    34. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Machtyn · · Score: 1

      I read an article many years ago about how new cars were shipped to Japan because there was a law there that mandated an individual could not own a 3 year old car. All the used cars were shipped back to the US were people are more likely to drive them into the ground before purchasing a new or used car.

      Anecdotally, I never buy new. When the difference between a new car and a one or two year old used car is significant, buying new just does not seem worthwhile.

    35. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by adeft · · Score: 1

      A bit pedantic, but the 2009 Toyota Corolla recommends 0w oil, and it can't be the only car.

    36. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by Quirkz · · Score: 1

      The plural of anecdote is not data, but my car's body rattles, the upholstery is worn, the doors leak (well, not too much), the paint is scratched, the windshield is cracked, plastic parts are broken, and while the dashboard is holding up fine I do have a massive dent on the passenger side door. The reason I haven't sold the car? Because the engine still runs great. My primary criterion for selling is when it doesn't work anymore, which mostly has to do with the engine.

    37. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by jandrese · · Score: 1

      This is the truth. Engines seem to last forever these days, unless you break the timing chain on an interference engine or get into some other catastrophe. In my (admittedly limited) experience, it's almost always the transmission that does the car in, not the engine. Transmissions just have not caught up with the advances in longevity that engines have apparently enjoyed over the past few decades.

      --

      I read the internet for the articles.
    38. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by DigiTechGuy · · Score: 1

      I sold a '67 Ford that had about 325,000 miles on the original 289 and FMX transmission, though it blew oil out the dipstick if you were on the highway for long enough. Rings were worn but it still ran smooth. Actually sold it because I had a nicer '68 Ford and didn't need two cars.

      Generally though I keep vehicles forever. It's cheaper to rebuild an engine or transmission than to buy a new car. It's also cheaper to replace a rusted body panel than buy a new car. Also to replace weather stripping, a windshield, etc. I buy vehicles with the intent to keep them pretty much forever, since you can't buy a decent new car anymore.

    39. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by BrianRoach · · Score: 1

      Really? It doesn't take 0w-30? There's a difference ;)

      I should have been more specific and said 0w-0, but your comment actually furthers my point.

      0W-30 oil is 0w cold, 30w hot. When you shut off the engine for 30 seconds the oil is actually thicker than when it is cold, thus preventing it from running back to the sump in an instant.

    40. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by samwichse · · Score: 1

      Hi, I run 0w20, and my car has idle cutoff... never been at a light long enough for it to force an engine restart (although pumping the brakes till the vacuum is gone will make it restart).

      Lots of people on the forums with 200-400(!)k on them... 125k here.

      Sam

    41. Re:This would only increase engine wear. by BrianRoach · · Score: 1

      Even if it did shut off, the 20w oil you're running wouldn't go anywhere in a few seconds. 0w20 is 0w cold, 20w hot.

      What I meant by "zero weight oil" would be 0w-0, which you're never going to see inside a motor - it would run down to the sump like water :)

      Modern oils and engine manufacture really are amazing, which was my point to the original poster. Engines often outlive the vehicle these days as long as you change the oil every once in a while.

  10. What is the real goal? by kimvette · · Score: 1

    What is the real goal of this? Is it really to decrease fossil fuel consumption, or is it planned obsolescence, considering that most engine wear occurs during engine start up when oil has drained back into the crankcase? Will all vehicles with this feature be equipped with electrically-driven dry sump systems so the bearings and lifters are already pressurized at start-up?

    --
    The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    1. Re:What is the real goal? by Soft+Cosmic+Rusk · · Score: 1

      Why does it have to be a dry-sump system? Wouldn't it work equally well with an electric pump on a normal wet-sump system?

    2. Re:What is the real goal? by kimvette · · Score: 2

      Dry sump systems make a hell of a lot more sense, considering that in a "normal wet-sump system" the pump is bolted to the engine block and is driven by the engine, costing power, not to mention the power loss by having the crankshaft slosh around in a pool of oil stored in the sump (oil pan).

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump

      Yes, ideally it would be an electric pump in either case, but it doesn't make sense for a conventional configuration to be electrically driven if the goal is to increase efficiency. If you're going to put an electric pump in, you may as well as eliminate the large capacity sump (oil pan) and move it into an auxiliary tank which will be a) easier to drain b) decrease engine assembly size and c) make it overall much, much easier to service the oiling system. It also makes it easier to install oil coolers, better oil filter systems, and so on.

      A better oil filter system would be a big win for engine longevity and long-term efficiency. Conventional "oil filters" actually don't "filter" oil like a fuel filter does; the bypass is nearly always open (they typically begin open at like 12psi and by typical pressure at cruising RPM, oil can't flow through the paper substrate at all so the bypass fully opens) so the sludge and particulates are not "filtered" out but deposited as they flow alongside the filter substrate. I've seen filters dissected by race crews and it's amazing what oil filter manufacturers have gotten away with for so long.

      If they made one of these stainless steel filters for my Saab, I'd have put one in already: http://www.gopurepower.com/site/products/default.asp#FILTERS - They actually filter the oil. Unfortunately they don't have a model that fits my 2.0t but when I put my ZR-1 back on the road after it's restored, I'm definitely switching to these oil filters in that car.

      --
      The Christian Right is Neither (Christian nor right). See: Matthew 23, Matthew 25, Ezekiel 16:48-50
    3. Re:What is the real goal? by Reziac · · Score: 1

      Oooh, interesting.... I see the Harley filter has magnets, presumably for trapping metal micro-shavings? What about the ones for Ford trucks? I talked to a guy who used a magnet on his oil filter and said it pulled an amazing amount of metallic crap out of the system.

      Good info about the bypass behaviour... so it's essentially acting not as a filter, but as a bucket that crud falls into as it goes past, provided it doesn't go by too fast?

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
    4. Re:What is the real goal? by mce · · Score: 1

      Do you really think that all the oil has drained back in just the 1 minute you're waiting for the light to turn green?

  11. Flywheel start by knarf · · Score: 1

    I'd think it should be possible to rig up the flywheel so it can be used to store momentum to restart the engine after a short stop. An electric clutch - normally engaged to keep the engine running when said clutch has broken down - with a soft engage mechanism so the flywheel can smoothly get the crank turning. A modern engine generally starts in the first two or three rotations of the crank, especially when it is already warmed up. Stop the engine while keeping the flywheel running, wait for the lights to turn, engage the flywheel to the crank and start the engine.

    --
    --frank[at]unternet.org
    1. Re:Flywheel start by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's the worst idea I've ever heard.

    2. Re:Flywheel start by screwzloos · · Score: 1

      The flywheel mass needed to make this work in anything bigger than a moped engine would be somewhere between impractical and impossible. Ever try to turn over a car engine with your bare hands?

    3. Re:Flywheel start by Bengie · · Score: 1

      They already have flywheel hybrids for racing cars and they plan to make them ready for consumer grade cars "soon".They can supply ~80hp for about 10 seconds. We're talking about a 12lbs flywheel spinning 100k rpm in a vacuum and cost about $2k. Best part is they're about an overall 80% efficient.

    4. Re:Flywheel start by LiENUS · · Score: 1

      The flywheel mass needed to make this work in anything bigger than a moped engine would be somewhere between impractical and impossible. Ever try to turn over a car engine with your bare hands?

      Yeah on my 10.5:1 compression v8 I did it easy with one hand and no wrench. Oh... I only weighed 140lbs at the time (5'10" tall.) It's not extremely difficult to turn an engine over by hand unless its a BIG diesel. Now with accessories attached (power steering, a/c and the like) its another story. But it is possible to clutch those out.

    5. Re:Flywheel start by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      I've started a Model T Ford with a crank... And I've ran a Type-1 VW flat-four sawmill that you started with a rip cord.
      Wasn't that hard.

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  12. Car will be fitted with new steer by Fuzzums · · Score: 1

    It will have a nice round blue logo and when you press it, you can either start your car or select "sleep"...

    --
    Privacy is terrorism.
  13. The US is a different place when it comes to cars by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    This may work on a small engine but not on a typical american gas guzzler, You would have to use a huge alternator to guarantee the battery stays charged or use a voltage sensor to disable the system to guarantee there is enough cranking power.

    There would have to be a temperature controlled override built into the climate controls to insure the car gets warmed up on those cold days.

    There will have to be an override if the air conditioning is used.

    Excessive wear and tear on the engine and starting system will result.

    There are safety concerns too, More than once i have been able to stomp on the gas to get the hell out of the way of some careless idiot about to rear end me.

    Personally, i pass on this idea.

  14. Re:The US is a different place when it comes to ca by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

    All the issues you list apply no matter what the engine size.

    Starter motor/battery/alternator is already scaled with the engine.

    --
    John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
  15. HOT engine starts. by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 1

    How many cycles will a flywheel driving starter motor / solenoid setup last?

    The extra starts will be with a HOT engine, with the lubrication already circulated, cylinders and coolant warmed, fuel pressurized, etc. This is a MUCH lighter load on the starter, flywheel gear teeth, and bearings.

    TFA doesn't mention what will be used, but a spring / torsion system that captured the rotational inertia of the engine to stop it, and then used that stored energy to restart the engine would be great for warm restarts.

    And would be a real bummer if the engine happened to misfire on the start - at which point it would have to be cranked anyhow.

    Ford once worked on such a system, using block of rubber as the spring. This got the internal nickname "the rubber band engine". That was back before computerized engine control and it was retired undeployed due to a lack of reliability.

    Computer-controlled start was a holy grail among the engineers working on the first four generations of engine control computers (back when I was among them). But it's a hard problem to get reliable. So it only started appearing on cars within the last few years - perhaps after hybrids made solving the problem mandatory.

    I'm betting on the system being based on the regular starter motor for non-hybrids. The starter is already there, so only software (and maybe materials upgrade for longer life) is required, rather than the addition of a new mechanism. But it would be interesting if the RBE finally makes it to the big time.

    --
    Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
    1. Re:HOT engine starts. by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      Precision control helps as well; these days, knowing that you can stop the engine with a cylinder in the perfect position to be fired makes starting almost effortless, especially with the aforementioned hot engine.

      --
      You're special forces then? That's great! I just love your olympics!
  16. Re:The US is a different place when it comes to ca by Ebbesen · · Score: 1

    This may work on a small engine but not on a typical american gas guzzler

    Once again: If you're driving a gas guzzler, you don't care about 5-10% saving.

    It's a bit like saying "This is stupid, because the Formula 1 car I'm driving is seldom at a complete halt".

    If you wish to drive in a gas guzzler, go ahead. If you wish to be sensible and save a few bucks, you probably are not driving a gas guzzler and you would probably like another 5-10% saving.

  17. Fix Or Repair Daily by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    First Owner Returned Defective
    Found On Road Dead
    Fast Only Rolling Downhill
    Driver Returns On Foot

    That's all I can think of for now.

  18. Leave engine on when in park.. by willy_me · · Score: 1

    When left in park the engine can idle. This provides a simple way of giving the driver control - perfect for warming up a car. When placed in drive, the start-stop system can do it's thing. Of course this is just an example of a simple fix to the problem. More complex fixes utilizing interior, exterior, and engine thermometers could also be implemented. Long story short - it should not be a problem.

    Hell, even the article description indicates that the start-stop system is activated when the bake is pressed. The brake is not pressed when idle and in park..

    1. Re:Leave engine on when in park.. by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      What is this park and drive thing?
      Sounds like your transmission is broken.

    2. Re:Leave engine on when in park.. by Grishnakh · · Score: 1

      What is "park"? Are you describing one of those cars used by handicapped people, who are not able to drive a manual transmission?

    3. Re:Leave engine on when in park.. by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      It is a transmission we have here in the USA for people that cant figure out how to drive a car properly.

      Me, I'm just lazy, I bought one so I can continue to shovel food in my face while I drive.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
  19. Electrified accessories in more cars by otis+wildflower · · Score: 2

    What has me interested is seeing electrification of all the accessories (power steering/brakes/AC compressor/etc) that are currently typically driven by belts off of the engine. Besides being more efficient, removing them from the motor reduces drag on the motor and enables higher RPMs, thus more power density. Hopefully, even on 'normal' cars, we'll get to the point where the only things driven from the motor will be the output shaft and the starternator (starter/alternator combo unit, possibly integrated in-line between the engine output shaft and transmission input).

    Hopefully this will help reduce the cost of these components due to economies of scale.

    Who knows, perhaps the early '00s "mild" hybridization will morph into something that's standard across all non-dedicated hybrid vehicles, perhaps even reducing weight overall (starternator, lithium battery replacing lead-acid).

    1. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 2

      What has me interested is seeing electrification of all the accessories (power steering/brakes/AC compressor/etc) that are currently typically driven by belts off of the engine. Besides being more efficient, removing them from the motor reduces drag on the motor and enables higher RPMs, thus more power density. Hopefully, even on 'normal' cars, we'll get to the point where the only things driven from the motor will be the output shaft and the starternator (starter/alternator combo unit, possibly integrated in-line between the engine output shaft and transmission input).

      Hopefully this will help reduce the cost of these components due to economies of scale.

      Who knows, perhaps the early '00s "mild" hybridization will morph into something that's standard across all non-dedicated hybrid vehicles, perhaps even reducing weight overall (starternator, lithium battery replacing lead-acid).

      If an accessory, say a compressor for air conditioning or power steering, requires x amount of horsepower to do it's job when driven by a belt, changing it to an all electric component will still require x amount of horsepower to do the same amount of work. You'll just need a larger alternator which will be harder to spin (require more horsepower) when there is the additional electrical load on it.

    2. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by DuckDodgers · · Score: 1

      But the belt draws the power continuously, while the electrical system only draws the power when it's actually needed.

      So even if the electrical system is far less efficient when it runs, if it only needs to run 20% (to invent a number) of the time you operate the vehicle, you still cut down dramatically on wasted energy.

    3. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      Things like power steering, power brakes, and air conditioning tend to be in constant use.

    4. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Air conditioning has a clutch which allows it to disengage the engine when it's not actively running, but most parasitic loads are constant. You're right that the same amount of power over time is required to run the accessories, but like having a UPS, if you divorce power consumption from power generation you can change the timing and/or harvest other sources of power (like regenerative braking).

      This is actually an opportunity for better performance. If you can reduce the parasitic load to zero during hard acceleration, you can gain 5-10 HP or more for "free" when you need it most. On an economy car engine, that can be a noticeable boost. When the hard acceleration stops and you go back to cruising, the parasitic load kicks back in, but you don't care.

      Since you aren't trying to run the engine on electricity, you don't need massive batteries like hybrid cars, you just need a slightly bigger battery to handle the short term needs. Or possibly even just a big capacitor.

    5. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by otis+wildflower · · Score: 2

      Belt-driven devices need to be designed to operate with a wide RPM operating range, which reduces their efficiency. Also, the belt is dragging at all times, and limiting the motor's rev range (or requiring even wider RPM ranges for the pumps/compressor) .

      You need higher voltages to get the best efficiency, but presumably you could have a LiIon higher-voltage battery that has a transformer to drive the 'legacy' 12V accessories..

      Also, direct-drive electric motors engineered for a fixed RPM are more reliable than belt-driven pumps with clutches and variable RPM.. If only because a belt is a SPOF..

    6. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      But, the devices that are belt driven on modern cars tend to be water pumps, power steering pumps and air conditioners. Water and power steering pumps need to be "on" all the time, and while it may be possible to use a smaller, more efficient electric motor, requiring less hp from the engine, unless they also correspondingly scale back the hp of the engine, they won't get any savings.

      It is unlikely that the compressor on the air conditioner will be much more efficient if it is all electirc, like in a window unit a/c. It has to do a lot of work. As such, the engine hp needs to still be high enough to drive the compressor.

      Also, a belt may be a SPOF, however, going electric, you now have multiple points of failure as you can't drive the car without the water pump or without the power steering pump. So, while the belt is a SPOF, for all of the devices, it is still a SPOF, versus multiple points.

      Also, with regards to reliability, belt breakage is relatively rare if replaced at 100,000 miles. On the other hand, electric window motors, fail quite frequently, so why would a high torque direct drive electric pump motor be any different?

      I'm not saying it can't be done, but making it more rugged, tends to lower the efficiency.

      In reality, even on an old VW bug, there is excess capacity in the engine hp, so adding a belt to drive accessories is almost free.

    7. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by LiENUS · · Score: 1

      Power steering you only use when actually steering (IE on the highway going straight its not in use) Power brakes use vacuum on gasoline powered vehicles so it is n/a here A/C clutches out 60% of the time unless its a super hot day so its not in use all of the time.

    8. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      Power steering you use all the time as your car is not riding on rails. Holding the wheel straight when you hit an imperfection in the road is power steering. I agree with brakes using vacuum, but the OP included power brakes, so I did, too. If the AC is clutched out, then it isn't really a drag on the engine in the first place. Smog pump is a different story.

      All of this points to removing the belt driven pumps and compressors, won't save a lot of power/fuel.

    9. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by LiENUS · · Score: 1

      Power steering you use all the time as your car is not riding on rails. Holding the wheel straight when you hit an imperfection in the road is power steering.

      Ever drive a vehicle with no power steering? above 5mph or so you don't know there is none the movement of the wheels on the road becomes your power steering so you effectively don't use it above 5mph

      If the AC is clutched out, then it isn't really a drag on the engine in the first place. Smog pump is a different story.

      Ever turn an A/C compressor even when its clutched out? It's a lot harder than it seems like it should be, sure it's easier than when its actually doing work but its still wasted energy.

    10. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If an accessory, say a compressor for air conditioning or power steering, requires x amount of horsepower to do it's job when driven by a belt, changing it to an all electric component will still require x amount of horsepower to do the same amount of work. You'll just need a larger alternator which will be harder to spin (require more horsepower) when there is the additional electrical load on it.

      Yes, so you put in a larger alternator. So what? The point is, electrical transmission and distribution of power is often more efficient than belts and gears.

    11. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by noidentity · · Score: 1

      If an accessory, say a compressor for air conditioning or power steering, requires x amount of horsepower to do it's job when driven by a belt, changing it to an all electric component will still require x amount of horsepower to do the same amount of work. You'll just need a larger alternator which will be harder to spin (require more horsepower) when there is the additional electrical load on it.

      Yes, assuming devices with no inefficiencies. When you factor those in, you find that electric wins, because it gives you more flexibility in the designs and what speeds you operate each device at (including the engine).

    12. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The belt still needs to run the generator. However there is no reason that the engine should run the drive-shaft, or to even have a drive-shaft. You only need a engine/generator that runs at a optimized RPG and a Battery of size X with Y number of electrical motors for the wheels.

      Then you could sell 4-wheel (1 motor on each wheel with an electrical differential/ 4WD) drive to those that wants it and larger batteries to those that do frequent short trips (for plug-in) while those that just want efficient long haul only need 1 or 2 electrical motors and a battery around today's size (with start/stop for when the battery is full)

    13. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Jukeman · · Score: 1

      What a great idea,replace a reasonably priced, dangerous lead-acid battery with one which will have a couple pounds of metal that will explode if it gets wet; and will cost an "arm and leg" to replace. Also, don't expect the explosion to be small.

    14. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Jukeman · · Score: 1

      You also add weight, and many more expensive parts to break down. Plus the alternator is not 100% efficent, nor would the motor nessary to drive the AC.

    15. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hopefully, even on 'normal' cars, we'll get to the point where the only things driven from the motor will be the output shaft and the starternator (starter/alternator combo unit, possibly integrated in-line between the engine output shaft and transmission input).

      You mean like Honda's IMA system?

    16. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If an accessory, say a compressor for air conditioning or power steering, requires x amount of horsepower to do it's job when driven by a belt, changing it to an all electric component will still require x amount of horsepower to do the same amount of work. You'll just need a larger alternator which will be harder to spin (require more horsepower) when there is the additional electrical load on it.

      True. But, when the accessory is not running, you have drag from the belt, pulleys, etc. On some cars, I've seen 6 or 7 pulleys that the accessory belt goes over - each one producing drag all the time.

      By making accessories electrically powered, you avoid that drag when idle, and only place load on the engine (via the alternator) when the accessory is in operation.

      Further, electrically powered accessories can be more efficient - due to better matching of their drive speed to the device (e.g. AC compressor motor speed can be matched to cooling load, which is far more efficient than desiging the AC to operate at engine speed which is unrelated to cooling requirements). Not only that, but certain accessories can be made more reliable. Automotive AC systems leak refrigerant - because it is impossible to make a truly gas-tight seal around the compressor drive pulley shaft. As a result, car AC systems require regular recharging with refrigerant. This is quite an effort in some countries (e.g. European countries) where recharging an AC system is illegal, unless the entire system has been recertified as leak free according to manufacturers specs. By contrast, an electric powered AC system can be hermetically sealed, and recharging would not be part of the expected maintenance over the life of the unit.

      This is type of full-electrification is part of the vision behind the new 42 V automotive electrical system. A 36 V battery (either lead or Li-ion) is used (which is floated at 42V when the engine runs). The higher voltage allows lower gauge cable to be used, reducing weight and voltage drop, and allows higher power delivery to starters (or combined starter/alternators) and high power accessories (such as AC). A DC-DC voltage converter would be provided for 'legacy' 12 V equipment.

    17. Re:Electrified accessories in more cars by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hopefully this will help reduce the cost of these components due to economies of scale.

      Oh I'm sure it will help reduce the cost due to economies of scale from the viewpoint of the producers.
      For the citizen (I don't like to say "consumer") it will probably cost more because of perceived advantages like fuel saving, hip-factor, better performance. And probably we will also be forced to replace electronic parts frequently for a price which costs 1000 times more than the production cost.

      Most likely there will also be some form of DRM which prevents you from going to the junk yard and buying a used but perfectly fine electronic component. The mantra here will be "safety" or similar. And the hardcore brainwashed shill will sing some song like "if you buy used parts then the manufacturor won't make money, then we will have inflation and you steal money from everyone. You must give your money to them to benefit us all!"

      my two cents.

  20. Way Too Hot by b4upoo · · Score: 1

    In my area a car AC has to work hard almost all year. A 30 second shutdown would be enough to turn the driver and passengers into a very wet ball of sweat.

  21. What about real city driving? by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

    Right now, you are lucky to get 4 to 6 cars through a light before it turns red again. The problem isn't necessarily because the lights are too short, but more often, the hesitation from one driver to the next in starting to move. What happens when those cars now take a fraction of a second longer just to start up again?

    Will the extra fuel used to start multiple times still offset the original idle time fuel usage?

    1. Re:What about real city driving? by thaddeusthudpucker · · Score: 1

      I say that people are the problem. If people were courteous enough to follow the Stop Sign rule and not get angry and impatient then we would not need traffic lights. Traffic lights in turn cause the problem of the backups you just described, because of the lag of one driver hesitating and starting the positive feedback loop. Like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwHfibl1AoI&translated=1

    2. Re:What about real city driving? by screwzloos · · Score: 1

      Even stop signs are pretty terrible.

      The best solution is roundabouts, but Americans are too confused by them. The ones out front of my house have tire tracks going up over the top, tracks going the wrong way, and tire marks from panic stops inside the roundabout - and this is in a low density suburban setting. I'd hate to see what would happen if they put one in my city.

    3. Re:What about real city driving? by gnasher719 · · Score: 1

      Right now, you are lucky to get 4 to 6 cars through a light before it turns red again. The problem isn't necessarily because the lights are too short, but more often, the hesitation from one driver to the next in starting to move. What happens when those cars now take a fraction of a second longer just to start up again?

      Simple answer: They don't.

    4. Re:What about real city driving? by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      Right now, you are lucky to get 4 to 6 cars through a light before it turns red again. The problem isn't necessarily because the lights are too short, but more often, the hesitation from one driver to the next in starting to move. What happens when those cars now take a fraction of a second longer just to start up again?

      Simple answer: They don't.

      You are claiming that the car will instantly be up to operating speed the moment you take your foot off the brake and hit the accelerator? That would be pretty impressive, even if the starter spun the engine up at 1000rpm, it would still take a fraction of a second. Would also take a hefty splash of gas, too.

      I'm not thinking that it would take seconds, like in starting a regular car, but it would surely take 1/4 to 1/2 second before you could actually drive off (on top of the time needed to actually accelerate). Nothing wrong with that, except that in a city like New York, it would create traffic problems.

      But, if they have solved the theoretical problem of instantaneous motion and transfer of power, then indeed this would be great (for much more than just automobiles).

    5. Re:What about real city driving? by EmagGeek · · Score: 1

      You're forgetting the response time it takes for the first driver in line to realize the light has turned green, finish up their text message, and then start driving again.

    6. Re:What about real city driving? by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      Even without the texting, the first driver has a response time, then the second driver response is based on the first driver and the third on the second, etc. Now, adding 1/4 second to 1/2 second delay to spin up the motor (something most people would think of as instant), means one less car through the light in city traffic.

      That equates to anywhere from 10% to 20% fewer cars through the average light, which would be significant in major metro areas. Yes, lights could be made to be longer, but then that impacts the cross traffic.

    7. Re:What about real city driving? by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      Oh my, if you turn every intersection into "stop sign rule" you're asking for eternal gridlock!

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
    8. Re:What about real city driving? by gnasher719 · · Score: 1

      You are claiming that the car will instantly be up to operating speed the moment you take your foot off the brake and hit the accelerator? That would be pretty impressive, even if the starter spun the engine up at 1000rpm, it would still take a fraction of a second. Would also take a hefty splash of gas, too.

      Who do you think would buy these cars in Europe if they were going slower than other cars? And it's not "foot off the brake and hit the accelerator". It is "press the kludge and put the car into gear". The engine starts when you press the kludge. The driver doesn't notice _any_ difference compared to a car with running engine.

    9. Re:What about real city driving? by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      You are claiming that the car will instantly be up to operating speed the moment you take your foot off the brake and hit the accelerator? That would be pretty impressive, even if the starter spun the engine up at 1000rpm, it would still take a fraction of a second. Would also take a hefty splash of gas, too.

      I'm not thinking that it would take seconds, like in starting a regular car, but it would surely take 1/4 to 1/2 second before you could actually drive off (on top of the time needed to actually accelerate).

      First of all - yes, far less than 1/4 of a second. But even using that measurement - do you really think that you move your foot from the brake to the accelerator in less than 1/4 of a second? Really? C'mon... Seriously, have someone time you (while the car is off) when you're actively trying to be fast. If they can - 1/4 of a second is damn hard to measure even on a decent stopwatch. In the real world when you're not trying to sprain yourself going for a foot-moving-6-inches-in-three-dimensions record, there's plenty of time.

      --
      You're special forces then? That's great! I just love your olympics!
    10. Re:What about real city driving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Google "human reaction time" - the mean on lab tests (admittedly an artificial environment) was 0.215 seconds. Throw in a 50 percent adjustment as a guesstimate for real world traffic conditions, that's still only 1/3 second.

    11. Re:What about real city driving? by jawtheshark · · Score: 1

      I've done it manually for over a year. It doesn't take as long as you think and an automatic system will certainly beat me doing it in speed. When doing it manually, you're not looking around and picking your nose. You have your hand ready on the key for when the light turns green or when the cars brake lights in front of your go out.

      Also, a warm engine turns on pretty much instantly.

      --
      Ahhh...the great dumpster continuum. Many a free computer will be found there. -- sowth (748135)
    12. Re:What about real city driving? by rjstanford · · Score: 1

      Google "human reaction time" - the mean on lab tests (admittedly an artificial environment) was 0.215 seconds. Throw in a 50 percent adjustment as a guesstimate for real world traffic conditions, that's still only 1/3 second.

      Right. And reaction time plus the action time it takes to move your foot to the accelerator, especially when not in an emergency stop situation...

      Although your 1/3 of a second is in and of itself longer than the GPP's posited 1/2 a second in the first place...

      --
      You're special forces then? That's great! I just love your olympics!
    13. Re:What about real city driving? by samwichse · · Score: 1

      My car has this, and yes, I cannot get the shift lever from neutral into first (the trigger to restart the engine) before the engine starts up.

      Seriously.

      Every time.

      Sam

  22. Re:The US is a different place when it comes to ca by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

    This may work on a small engine but not on a typical american gas guzzler

    Once again: If you're driving a gas guzzler, you don't care about 5-10% saving.

    It's a bit like saying "This is stupid, because the Formula 1 car I'm driving is seldom at a complete halt".

    If you wish to drive in a gas guzzler, go ahead. If you wish to be sensible and save a few bucks, you probably are not driving a gas guzzler and you would probably like another 5-10% saving.

    If you are truly sensible, you won't be spending $20,000-$30,000 to get a new car that will save you at most 2mpg from idling (and that is only if the 10% figure is reached).

  23. Better solution by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

    I've got a better solution, one that will save gas whether city driving or highway. Do the same thing they did in the 70s. Build smaller, lighter cars. The Honda Civic in the 70s and early 80s got mileage close to what some of the hybrids get today. Why, they did have high horse power engines that are needed to haul all the extra weight around. Today's civic is closer to a full size car of the 70s than a compact.

    Today, we have cars that are over-powered, over-weight and over-priced. I have 1972 Volkswagen Beetle that I drive most days. It gets actual 27mpg city and 32 highway. I am not suggesting that everyone drive an old Beetle. It is frustrating, though that a 38 year old vehicle gets better mileage than most of today's fuel efficient vehicles.

    1. Re:Better solution by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      Those cars are death traps in an accident. What we need is another way to cut weight and still have good safety results, maybe airbags in the body panels or something.

    2. Re:Better solution by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      It's interesting that race cars don't have airbags and are built with rigid frames and usually the driver survives an accident at well over highway speeds. What do they know that we don't? They wear five point harnesses for seat belts. Air bags were added because people don't wear seatbelts.

      Accident mortality rates were actually lower during the pre-airbag period of cars (ie 1980s). Of course, speed limits were 55 back then and there weren't SUVs.

      Race cars are supposedly the most fuel efficient vehicles there are (they squeeze every last btu from the fuel burned and convert it to usable hp). They are light weight and ultra safe. The public doesn't need the high hp of a race engine, but the same things that make them safe and fuel efficient could be used in consumer vehicles. Of course, people would need to wear a seat belt.

    3. Re:Better solution by LiENUS · · Score: 1

      It's interesting that race cars don't have airbags and are built with rigid frames and usually the driver survives an accident at well over highway speeds. What do they know that we don't?

      If they collide with a fixed object their own inertia is far lower than the huge SUV of today, and if they collide with another vehicle its another vehicle that weighs about the same. If one of those race cars collides with an SUV of today, the driver is dead hands down. I know someone who has survived several bad wrecks in a race car including flipping upside down entirely. But you know what he drives on the road? a huge honking suv because he knows the other vehicles will kill him if he tries to drive a light rigid frame vehicle.

    4. Re:Better solution by tumnasgt · · Score: 1

      My 1998 Toyota Camry gets 32MPG (city or highway, thanks to shutting off the engine at red lights), and it is a lot more practical and safer than a '72 Beetle.

      I completely agree that modern cars are too large and over powered, but really old cars are not the answer.

      Properly small cars (like are seen in Europe) with modern engines are a much better idea. By far the biggest problem is that gas is too cheap to get people out of their massive SUVs and into cars that meet the needs of everyday driving, not off-roading and track days.

    5. Re:Better solution by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      Most accidents are not head on collisions with a SUV, but one vehicle accidents with immovable objects (trees, posts, rock walls).

      Besides, a 60mph head on collision between an SUV and a smaller vehicle doesn't make much difference to the driver of the smaller vehicle whether they have an airbag or not.

      However, if eliminating SUV's from the road, means we can all drive smaller, lighter, more fuel efficient vehicles, then I'm all for it.

    6. Re:Better solution by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      I agree that driving really old cars (like my beetle) is not the answer, I was only pointing out that what is by today's standard good gas mileage, was obtainable 40 years ago.

      I also agree, that small cars like Europe are the way to go, particularly with the TDI diesel engines, that rival hybrids in fuel efficiency.

      With regards to gas, yes, it is too cheap so people won't give up their SUV, however, more expensive gas is not the answer, either. That doesn't take into count the working poor who are not in a position to purchase new or even relatively new fuel efficient vehicles.

      A better approach, is to mandate higher mpg on new vehicles used for passenger service (if you drive your SUV/truck predominately on the farm/off road, it's not passenger service, anything else is).

      To address safety issues, SUV/Trucks for passenger use, shouldn't be allowed to be any higher than standard vehicles.

      In other words, you can solve the problem by making the fuel so expensive then nobody wants to buy SUV, but this hurts the working poor or you can make the cost of the SUV (through efficiency requirements, etc.) so expensive, that nobody wants to buy the SUV.

      One other thing often overlooked with small cars is that most collisions are not head on collisions with SUVs, but single vehicle accidents with a tree, or some other fixed object.

      Face it, most places in the US do not have public transportation, particularly the Midwest, that would allow for getting rid of vehicles. Therefore, the easiest way to protect the public and keep fuel costs down is to lower the speed limit, lighten the vehicles and eliminate the risks from SUV and full sized trucks that are driven on the public highways. Other than being politically unpopular, it is a lot more achievable than trying to engineer more and more things into the vehicles.

    7. Re:Better solution by h4rr4r · · Score: 1

      I want a 5 point harness, no cars come with them. In an accident they are great, on quick smack and you can release yourself. I also want a hans device.

    8. Re:Better solution by multipartmixed · · Score: 1

      > What do they know that we don't?

      That it's safer to have all the cars going in the same direction, and to eliminate as many obstacles as possible?

      --

      Do daemons dream of electric sleep()?
    9. Re:Better solution by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

      Except that most accidents are not multi-vehicle accidents but single vehicle ones. This is not including those accidents in parking lots, etc., but actual moving vehicles.

      Therefore, one could argue that all cars going in the same direction and eliminating obstacles would not address the major cause of accidents, which really tend to be operator error (inattentiveness, wrong speed for road conditions, etc.). Inattentiveness is hard to correct for, however, lowering the speed limit does give one more time to react and does indeed mitigate the risk.

  24. I have this on my Accord and Echo ... a "key" by DaveyJJ · · Score: 1

    I turn my engine off at many of the lights on my way to work just by turning the key. Doing that for years in both cars. There's one particularly long light that if you hit it as it's just turned red you wait two and a half minutes before you get the green again. I once did a test over two weeks and I'd average more than 70 minutes a week idling my car just waiting at lights. No reason not to just turn it off at reds instead of wasting more than an hours gas/week idling. The car doesn't get overly hot or cold regardless of it being off. And saves me lots of gas and $ in the long run. YMMV (pun not intended).

    --
    DaveyJJ
  25. Reliability will suffer by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Bad idea. 90% of engine wear happens on startup and shutdown. Journal bearings take a minimum rotational speed for the shaft to start "levitating" --until that speed is reached, they rub against the journal and wear it down. I imagine this technology would decrease reliability.

  26. xxx by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    seems like a bad idea.. the startup is the most wear and tear on an engine, and requires more fuel than idling

  27. Maybe Prius and Honda hybrids should do this too.. by strangeattraction · · Score: 1

    They already do....and have been for several years.

  28. Your badly out of date. by Ungrounded+Lightning · · Score: 1

    Given that it is Ford I'd suggest that all they are thinking is 'Start-Stop' will be better then 'Stop-break-leak-fall apart-blow smoke-rust'.

    You're badly out of date. The Ford family threw out the outside CEO and his cronies some time back and have turned the company around big-time, especially on quality issues.

    Ford now produces some of the best stuff on the road (including the highest mileage hybrid), and does better than even the best Japanese cars on reliability (even BEFORE Toyota started having speed control issues).

    They're also the only one of the big three that didn't need a government bailout/confiscation to stay open - let alone thrive.

    And no I haven't worked for them for over a quarter century, nor do I own their stock. But since their turnaround I sure as hell buy their products.

    --
    Bantam Dominique roosters crow a four-note song. Once you've heard it as "Happy BIRTHday" you can't NOT hear it that way
    1. Re:Your badly out of date. by DuckDodgers · · Score: 1

      Correction: Ford has the highest mileage midsize sedan hybrid with the Fusion Hybrid, which beats the Toyota Camry Hybrid - and I think the upcoming Hyundai Sonata Hybrid will steal that title from it. For most efficient hybrid, period, the Prius and Civic Hybrids still beat the Fusion Hybrid, but they're smaller.

      But generally speaking I agree with you. Research the features, technical options, combination of fuel economy, power, and vehicle weight and size, active and passive safety features, crash safety, and so forth of the current Ford US domestic market product lineup. For the first time in decades, Ford is competitive with well over half its vehicles.

  29. Porsche by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The Porsche Panameras here in the United States have this technology as well and it works pretty damn well. You can also turn this option off and have the engine run when stopped however.

  30. Goddamn. by HamSammy · · Score: 1

    That last sentence frustrates me to no end.

  31. Tried and testes? by dtmancom · · Score: 1

    Balls.

  32. The reason there are few stops and starts by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    on the test are to artificially inflate the car makers mpg numbers.

    Hillarious to see that their previous "fixes" to the test are now biting them in the ass now.

  33. My 1996 Chrysler had this feature. by pvs · · Score: 1

    An easter egg in the O2 sensor at 120,000 miles allowed my car to take full advantage of sudden engine turn off at low RPMs, while idling at stop lights and making the occasional left turn. The bonus round involved finding someone to turn the key while I beat on the starter with a jack handle to get the engine to turn over every 10 starts.

  34. Start/stop not the answer. by Dcnjoe60 · · Score: 1

    Start stop is not the answer. An SUV that currently gets 14mpg in town, would only get, at most 15.4mpg and that is only if the maximum 10% efficiency is reached. At the more realistic 4%, it would be 14.6mpg. Either of those are still crappy mileage.

    If the US is serious about reducing fuel consumption, lowering the speed limit has the largest impact, because it touches every car in existence, not just new ones. Face it, cars burn less fuel at 55-60mph than they do at 70mph (let alone the 80-90mph a lot of freeway drivers seem to drive). There is also more time to react to problems and less wear and tear on the highways. Once the speed limit is reduced, then new cars can be manufactured for that standard, making them even more efficient since they won't need all the horsepower they have today.

    Studies show that the average vehicle, on the road today, would increase mpg 12% at 60mph versus 70mph and 15% at 55mph. That same SUV, would go from 14mpg to 16.1mpg at a 55mph speed limit. Better yet, a sedan would go from 25mpg to 28+mpg.

    The device that most effects fuel efficiency is the connection from the seat to the throttle.

    1. Re:Start/stop not the answer. by MtViewGuy · · Score: 1

      I'd almost agree but with today's far more aerodynamic body designs and modern engines with computer-controlled fuel injection and variable valve timing, going slower won't save as much as you think. And slower speeds increase the boredom factor, which can cause MORE accidents from drivers nodding off on the road.

  35. Slashdotters solve the solution by ltkije · · Score: 1

    Most of the concerns in this thread have been answered many times in hybrid vehicle and hypermiling forums. But just to address a couple...

    Car batteries are sized for a cycle of rapid discharge (seconds), followed by moderate recharge while driving (minutes to hours), followed by very slow discharge when the engine is off (hours to weeks). The details are the secret sauce of electrical system design, hard to find out even from inside the auto industry. One would expect an engine start-stop car to have a larger battery and alternator than a conventional car. One consequence of this typical charge-discharge pattern is that any vehicle driven only on ten-minute trips is guaranteed to have battery problems.

    Other facts of life (analysis available from EPA, no less) are that cruising at a steady speed is the highest-mileage mode of any car, while stop-and-go traffic gives the lowest mileage. Successful hybrids have features to deal with both of these extremes of fuel consumption. The start-stop system obviously deals with one aspect of the latter.

    Alfred P. Sloan has been dead for 44 years.

  36. More of a problem here in Phoenix by maxwells_deamon · · Score: 1

    You have to understand how batteries fail down here in the high heat.

    I used to live in the midwest. There they failed when trying to start a cold engine. It would crank really slow and then maybe not start. Once the engine was warm they would start agin as it was less work to start with a warm engine and battery.

    Here in the heat, the battery just goes away. You can start the car with no problems and then drive for 30 miles. Stop for gas. When you try to start it, you don't even get a click.

    If we had cars shutting down like this, they would have them stopped on the freeway and in the drive through lane. Not a big deal with a hybrid as you have multiple batteries, but not good for conventional cars.

    1. Re:More of a problem here in Phoenix by fishbowl · · Score: 1

      To be fair, a lot of people (myself included) post on alternative vehicle threads from places like Southern Arizona or Winnipeg, or people who need to routinely take 8000 mile road trips with 8 passengers 2 dogs and backcountry gear for 6 weeks, or who need to haul their horses or their boats.

      Yeah, just because an alternative vehicle is inappropriate for *us* doesn't mean they are a bad idea.

      --
      -fb Everything not expressly forbidden is now mandatory.
  37. New battery technology by dutchwhizzman · · Score: 1

    start-stop cars have batteries with glass-fiber mats that are 90% drained with battery acid around the lead plates. This gives them the ability to deep-cycle the batteries. Also, the alternators have more power and in most European cars with this system, the alternators only deliver power when the batteries need charging. The preferred method is even to only charge when the car is decelerating, so it brakes the car, in stead of using power that could also be used to accelerate or propel the car.

    These batteries and intelligent charging systems cost money. That is why it hasn't been done before.

    --
    I was promised a flying car. Where is my flying car?
  38. Ford takes the credit as usual by |TheMAN · · Score: 1

    Mazda invented it over a year ago but Ford takes the credit as usual (they took credit for blind spot reducing mirrors not too long ago which were invented by European automakers 10 years ago too).
    The Mazda3 in Europe and Japan already has this feature for a year now, but it's not here because of the retarded EPA testing methods. FYI, the 3 is not available in a hybrid, so it isn't using the usual quick start/stop system used in the Prius, etc. Mazda invented a system where the cylinders are precisely positioned ("staged" if you will call it that) so that a restart is quick/effortless.

    This isn't Ford bashing, but it irritates me when credit isn't given where it's due; especially to the underling companies that the general public still believe produces poor cars or innovates nothing.

    1. Re:Ford takes the credit as usual by Golden_Rider · · Score: 1

      I thought start/stop systems were already available on production cars for over a decade now, for example the Volkswagen Lupo 3L had one already in 1999. What you wrote about cylinder positioning on the Mazda 3 sounds similar to what BMW are working on - a system to start the engine without a starter motor, by determining cylinder position, so that the car knows which cylinder to fire first.

    2. Re:Ford takes the credit as usual by MtViewGuy · · Score: 1

      Given that Ford has access to Mazda's patent portfolio, my guess is that the Ford start-stop system IS a variant of the system Mazda developed, though modified to account for heavier use of air conditioning common in the USA.

  39. Re:The US is a different place when it comes to ca by Firehed · · Score: 1

    It depends hugely on your driving patterns. My father has a long commute (50+ miles each way) that's almost entirely highway driving and conceivably a single stop, so he'd get almost nothing out of this. On the other hand, I have a very short (3 miles, less if I skip coffee) commute through mostly residential areas so I could easily stop ten times in that short space. I consistently get at least the claimed 37MPG on the highway, but my commute is so stop-and-go that I get about 26MPG during the week instead of the claimed 32 city (which I tend to get on the weekends during more typical city driving). As it is, I still only have to fill up once every 4-6 weeks and have a small tank so it's not much of a problem. Still, it's a bit of a shame that I don't have the English version of my car, which has this feature already.

    --
    How are sites slashdotted when nobody reads TFAs?
  40. Innovation by ReallyEvilCanine · · Score: 2

    Ford: inventing today what VW put into production 8 years ago.

    1. Re:Innovation by MtViewGuy · · Score: 1

      However, Ford's system--probably a variant of the system Mazda developed--is far less expensive to implement than the VW start-stop system. I wonder will the Ford start-stop system require the use of a direct-injected engine, though; mind you, this is less of a problem since Ford plans to switch to gasoline direct injection (GDI) over the next few years.

    2. Re:Innovation by demonbug · · Score: 1

      However, Ford's system--probably a variant of the system Mazda developed--is far less expensive to implement than the VW start-stop system. I wonder will the Ford start-stop system require the use of a direct-injected engine, though; mind you, this is less of a problem since Ford plans to switch to gasoline direct injection (GDI) over the next few years.

      Great... only 10 years after VW introduced it in the mainstream, 14 years after Mitsubishi introduced it in Japan, and 55 years after Mercedes put it in the 300SL (according to Wikipedia). To be fair, it looks like Ford tried it back in the late 70's but cancelled the project.

      Oh, wait. Further reading indicates that Ford already uses direct injection - in their European Mondeo since 2003. I guess it's just the American market that they will (finally) be transitioning over.

  41. Automatic gears... by Joce640k · · Score: 1

    I drove a SMART with this a few weeks ago. The engine starts up when you take your foot off the brake.

    --
    No sig today...
    1. Re:Automatic gears... by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      Now if SMART could make the cars reliable... They are notorious for having a shoddy electrical system.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    2. Re:Automatic gears... by Joce640k · · Score: 1

      Don't know much about that, it was a rental. About the only thing I didn't like was the suspension - the ride was way too hard.

      --
      No sig today...
  42. "Enough" by Joce640k · · Score: 1

    You armchair engineers...you're so predictable in threads like this.

    --
    No sig today...
  43. Armchair engineers, yawn... by Joce640k · · Score: 1

    Armchair engineers: They come up with some largely imagined problem, assume the engine won't be modified in any way to compensate by the people with proper qualifications in engineering and engine design ... then they cry "It'll never work!".

    Threads like this always bring them out.

    --
    No sig today...
  44. Pro-tip by ThatsNotPudding · · Score: 1

    After buying one of these cars, stop by the parts counter for a spare six-pack of ring gears and starter motors.

  45. Had this on a rental in Europe by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    And I must say that I hated it, at least as implemented.

    The problem was that in the car I was driving (a Smart car) it was far too active. If you can to a stop at a sign instead of a light, it would blip off. It made any sort of reliable acceleration very unnerving. When I'm pulling into a lane I want to know that the car is going to go as soon as I put my foot on the gas, not a second later after it's started back up again. Perhaps some kind of timer? I have no problem with the idea - I don't really need my engine running at a long light, as long as the car is ready to go again quickly. Thankfully, this car had the ability to switch the system off, and so I drove it that way after the first fifteen minutes. Of course, if you have to fiddle with that, you might as well turn the car on and off manually.

  46. Actually yes, buy a Ford. by fahlesr1 · · Score: 2

    My first car was a 94 Ford Tempo coupe. I hated that thing, it got worse fuel efficiency than my mom's Caravan, had a terrible transmission, and leaked just about every fluid it had. Changing the coolant was a pain, you needed three buckets cause there was a bar right beneath the drain that the coolant would run along and spill out in three places. On the bright side it did teach me how to repair cars. I must have replaced every component in the engine over the four years I drove it. Started died twice, Oxygen sensor died, had to replace the transmission fluid pan, belt wore out, alternator died. Replaced the gas tank once, the entire muffler system twice, the stupid automatic seat belt motor twice! The car finally died when the rear shock broke off its mounting and punched through the trunk.

    I swore I'd never buy a Ford after that.

    Fast forward to 2010, and Ford refuses to take bail-out money, earning them some respect in my book. Then I hear about Ford's SYNC and think, "Wow, that is really cool." Then my Suzuki Aero decides to take a dirt nap. I end up buying a 2010 Ford Focus SE. I love this car, its the sportiest thing I've ever owned, gets good fuel economy and SYNC is just amazing. And Ford is updating SYNC to be able to control applications on your phone soon.

    Ford has turned itself around in my opinion. They are actually innovating, and so they have won me over, even after the nightmare that was my Tempo. Congrats Ford.

  47. Except in very cold weather by swb · · Score: 1

    A couple of years ago a friend and I went to a concert on a night it got to about -25F. We took side streets home due to black ice issues on the freeway (and slightly too much to drink..).

    We noticed that at stoplights his Honda Odyssey's temperature guage actually went *down* at stoplights. We were at a particularly long light and noticed the heater air getting cooler; it changed quickly once we got moving again, but I think you can lose heat faster than you think in extreme temperatures.

  48. Re:The US is a different place when it comes to ca by DigiTechGuy · · Score: 1
    Flawed logic. The monetary savings from small increases in MPG are significantly larger when dealing with vehicles that get low MPG. For example, pulling my trailer with my truck (Total about 11,000 lbs) I can get about 10 MPG in hilly terrain at 70 MPH. If you gave me another 2 MPG I would notice it. For example, let's look at cost per mile and savings per mile given a 2 MPG increase. For comparison sake, and since I'm curious, I'll use my truck towing (10 MPG) vs. my motorcylce (42 MPG). Fuel used in each is 93 octane. I don't recall what it costs but I seem to remember seeing a sign for $3.20/gal recently.

    10 MPG: $.32/mi
    12 MPG: $.27/mi
    Savings: $.05/mi

    42 MPG: $.076/mi
    44 MPG: $.073
    Savings: $.003/mi

    To put these in perspective, for my instance, to save $100 in gas, I would have to drive only 2000 miles in the truck while pulling my trailer. So in my case I'd save about $100/yr. with a 2 MPG increase in towing MPG in the truck.
    To save $100 with a 2 MPG increase on the bike, it would take 33,333 miles. Assuming about 4000 miles/yr on the bike, it would take over 8 years to save $100 from a 2 MPG increase, or alternatively I'd save $12/yr.

    Assuming a different scenario, driving each vehicle exclusively for a year that an average American supposedly drive 12,000 miles. A 2 MPG increase on a 10 MPG vehicle would save $600. A 2 MPG increase on a 42 MPG vehicle would save $36. The numbers speak for themselves.

  49. Monetary savings, net negative? by DigiTechGuy · · Score: 1

    Factor in a few extra starters over the life of the vehicle at anywhere from $75-$150/each and those savings in fuel economy might actually cost you money.

  50. I used to say 'Ford makes good tractors' by HornWumpus · · Score: 1

    But apparently they sold their tractor division to Fiat in the 90s.

    I am looking for something good to say about Fords.

    But it has to be honest.

    I know far to many mechanics to believe your line.

    Initial quality is pure un-adulterated bullshit.

    You can't measure car quality by counting minor defects on delivery and just call that it.

    Fords sucked balls 25+ years ago too.

    --
    John McAfee 'It was like that time I hired that Bangkok prostitute; to do my taxes, while I fucked my accountant'
  51. Why do people still buy Fords? by gottabeme · · Score: 1

    One question: Why?

    Fords are so poorly designed inside and out, technically and ergonomically, I can't understand why anyone would buy one when there are alternatives like Honda and Toyota available. The quality of workmanship is also so poor compared to brands like Honda and Toyota--again, why? One can buy a good, used Honda for less money than a new Ford and come away with a better car, one that's more reliable, more durable, better performing, and more pleasant to operate.

    Is it just a matter of poor taste? Not realizing that there are great alternatives? Masochism?

    I would love to support an all-American auto company with my business, but I won't reward shoddy engineering, design, workmanship, and service with my money. Besides, Hondas have been built in the U.S. for a long time now, so they provide plenty of American jobs.

    --
    "Those who consume the bulk of goods are those who make them. We must never forget this secret of our prosperity."
    1. Re:Why do people still buy Fords? by gmhowell · · Score: 1

      Couldn't tell you, as I haven't been in the market for a decade, but in the 90's, street prices on Fords were far cheaper for a comparable Honda or Toyota. BTW, comparing the used Honda to a new Ford is disingenuous at best.

      And as I indicated, 1.25 million miles in them with only one oddity in the bunch.

      --
      Jesus was all right but his disciples were thick and ordinary. -John Lennon
  52. hairyfeet got BLOWN AWAY 4 times in 1 day? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://it.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1916240&cid=34612834

    http://it.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1916240&cid=34647708

    http://slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1922942&cid=34665368

    http://slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1924664&cid=34669668

    ROTFLMAO, I wouldn't listen to "professor hairyfeet" guys, he's only an ITT Tech student.

  53. professor hairyfeet blown away 4 times in a day? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://it.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1916240&cid=34612834

    http://it.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1916240&cid=34647708

    http://slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1922942&cid=34665368

    http://slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1924664&cid=34669668

    ROTFLMAO - I wouldn't listen to "professor hairyfeet" guys (he's only an ITT Tech student).

  54. hairyfeet, blown away, 4x in 1 day? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    http://it.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1916240&cid=34612834

    http://it.slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1916240&cid=34647708

    http://slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1922942&cid=34665368

    http://slashdot.org/comments.pl?sid=1924664&cid=34669668

    ROTFLMAO!

    I wouldn't seriously listen to "professor hairyfeet" guys, he's only an ITT Tech student.