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Beyond Megapixels - Part III

TheTechLounge writes "Beyond Megapixels - Part I & Part II have both been posted here at Slashdot, and now it is my pleasure to bring to you Beyond Megapixels - Part III. This is the final part of this series of editorial articles examining current digital photography hardware. In this segment I will be focusing on function, filetypes, and features."

231 comments

  1. My camera by pcmanjon · · Score: 1, Insightful

    I don't understand the whole hype about MEGApixXels.

    I have a 2.0 megapixel camera. It was about 250 bucks when I purchased it.

    It's an Olympus D-380 Digital Camera, it uses a (60?) meg flash memory card. Connects to the computer via USB to upload pics.

    I've -never- seemed to need a new camera after this year of having owned it. Pictures are pretty clear, they're great for vacation, taking pictures of my latest case mod, pasting links of me almost naked on slashdot (http://slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=04/04/18/15152 01&mode=nested&tid=133&tid=186&tid=214 )

    Or just about anything else.

    What's this growing need of a huge megepixel camera?

    What? Do you enjoy being able to clearly see an ant from taking a picture with your camera 12 feet above an ant mound?

    1. Re:My camera by slabbe · · Score: 2, Interesting

      But the article adressed issues such as white balance, which often is of central importance, even with a 2.1 megapixel camera (unless you are shooting black&white).

    2. Re:My camera by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

      It pretty simple. You and I and a huge percentage of the population probably don't need more than a 2 or 3 megapixel camera, but unless the companies can come up with something else to use as a marketing gimmick, they will be pushing the megapixels.

    3. Re:My camera by armacc · · Score: 1
      I suggest that for Mr & Mrs Average anywhere around 2 or 3 mp is more than adequate.
      However, if you decide that you want to have some of the images printed in large scale (10x8 or bigger) then those extra pixels will make a significant difference to the final print.

      If you are using a digital camera for taking pictures to enter in competition then you can't have too many pixels.

      Any pro photographers out there care to coment?

    4. Re:My camera by Ripping+Silk · · Score: 5, Interesting

      horses for courses. Glad to hear you camera is all you need.
      But you may not be as happy to see that quality picture on a sports illustrated double spread for instance.
      People still use film because there is still an issue with the merits of film/CCD/CMOS. Until film is well and truely surpassed by digital, expect to see the megapixels get.. uhhh . mega'rer.
      I've recently got into SLR digital with a 10D. Along with that I got some 'L' series lenses, and I would expect my picture quality will steadily improve as the pixels go up. I'm looking forward to it.
      What? Do you enjoy being able to clearly see an ant from taking a picture with your camera 12 feet above an ant mound?
      Actually..... yes... :) (if we had ants that made mounds in NZ!!)

      --
      this is not a flawless plan.. this is inspiration
    5. Re:My camera by SushiFugu · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Have you ever tried printing those 2 megapixel images? 2.0 may be all well and good on a monitor, but printing is a whole 'nother ballgame. You won't be getting any kind of acceptable 8x10's out of that. And we're not even talking professional use here, just simple at home printing, when you start talking about actually selling your images or doing other serious work with them, the need for 5+ megapixels becomes painfully clear.

      So yes, 2.0 is enough if all you're doing is posting the images online or archiving them for the heck of it, but when it comes to really putting them to work, whether it be printing just for at home framing or for professional work, you'll quickly see the need for those "hyped" high megapixels.

    6. Re:My camera by trs998 · · Score: 2, Informative

      I've got a Fuji A201 2 mp camera. The images are crappy, mainly due to a tiny lens and cheap components.

      My main camera is a 3^H6 mp Fuji S602Zoom with a big lens, a threaded ring, manual control of everything, a 1cm macro mode, and raw (well, tiff) image output.

      I think that while the average point-and-shoot person will not need more than 2 mp, they probably will want a smallish optical zoom and reasonable lens quality.

      I would benefit from my camera taking true 6mp shots (Fuji's hexagonal multi-sensor-per-pixel idea. actually 3 mp images in a diagonal hex layout interpolated to 6. I normally run it on 3. I'd say its equivalent to about 4.5 up to about 6 for straight edges (buildings))

      I'm a hobbist photographer, and I often print images on A4 if they're good. A4 really needs about 4 mp so as to not see pixels (5760x1440 dpi printer)

      So, yes, i want more megapixels.

    7. Re:My camera by weighn · · Score: 2, Interesting

      as with anything digital, the more data/info you can capture, the more you can do with it afterwards. Ramp up the megapixels, sample rate, clock rate, and so on.

      --
      Mongrel News all the news that fits and froths
    8. Re:My camera by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

      It's much, much more than just the megapixels that determines how your shots will come out. The megapixels are just the limiting factor on what you can do with the photo afterwards.

      Let's take a 2 megapixel image for instance. 1600x1200 = 1,920,000 pixels. An 8 inch x 10 inch print of that photo would print at a resolution of 1600/10=160 ppi (dpi) across, and 1200/8=150 ppi (dpi) down. That is low quality, approximately half of what you see in a typical magazine, and is definitely noticable.

      Beyond that, I was recently at my cousin's graduation and commissioning into the army. His family brought their $250-$300 3 megapixel camera and I had my 5 megapixel Sony DSC-F717. The difference is astounding, and the megapixels have only minor significance. Because the basics of photography are not even addressed on their camera (color balance, focal length, exposure time, etc) their images in the darkened ceremony did not come out at all, whereas mine came out great as I adjusted the shutter speed, the exposure values and other settings that they had absolutely no control over.

      For point & shoot, put on the web or e-mail, no, it doesn't really matter, but a good camera at 640x480 compared to el 'cheapo camera at the same resolution is quite significant.

    9. Re:My camera by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It's not necessarily the NEED for many megapixels. They sell cameras. People look at two cameras and buy the one that has higher numbers.

      I had a 1.2 megapixel Kodak DC120 with a 10MB CF card for 9 years. Of course, I paid $1200 for the whole deal at the time. I only bought a new camera because the old one was becoming too shabby (things falling apart) to be usable.

    10. Re:My camera by jedidiah · · Score: 1

      There are very obvious differences in image quality that result from the lack of clarity present in a 2.0 megapixel image. These defects are apparent even in a 4x6, nevermind an 8x10.

      As standard print sizes continue to grow, image quality becomes more important (not less). Casual snapshots far too easily make themselves historically relevant.

      --
      A Pirate and a Puritan look the same on a balance sheet.
    11. Re:My camera by swordboy · · Score: 3, Informative

      Have you ever tried printing those 2 megapixel images? 2.0 may be all well and good on a monitor, but printing is a whole 'nother ballgame. You won't be getting any kind of acceptable 8x10's out of that.

      I've had full page shots from my 2MP Powershot A60 printed in real, live magazines. They work FINE for 8x10 or 8.5x11 for that matter.

      The parent poster is correct. 2MP is more than enough for most people. I never recommend more than 3.2 - 4MP for most anyone who solicits my opinion. Unless someone is looking for room to crop an image, anything more is usually a waste of flash memory.

      --

      Life is the leading cause of death in America.
    12. Re:My camera by Doomie · · Score: 1

      Well, FYI, 8X10' is probably not the most common format that there is. At least in Europe, 10x15cm is the norm for print-outs -- and these look very fine for 2MP files!

      --
      Doomie
    13. Re:My camera by lintux · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I think it's like most things in the computer world. Megapixels are numbers which can easily be compared with each other, whereas you can't just easily state that camera A has a better picture quality than camera B. Partially, maybe, because it's a matter of taste, but mainly because the picture quality can't be measured in a number that can be put on the label that also tells the customer how expensive the cam is.

      And well, as some people say, higher resolutions can be useful when you want large prints of the pictures.

    14. Re:My camera by turnin · · Score: 1

      Which technology we are missing here? Printing? or ...
      A 2 MP image is really sharp and great enough on 20 inch CRT, but not even decent for a 8x10" print !
      Could someone explain?

    15. Re:My camera by CTachyon · · Score: 4, Informative

      Displays have approximately 100 DPI (dots per inch) of resolution. Printing on a cheapie inkjet has 300 DPI. Printing on a high-quality but still consumer-level laser printer tops out around 1200 DPI. Each time you double the DPI, you need 4 times as many pixels to attain it.

      --
      Range Voting: preference intensity matters
    16. Re:My camera by sql*kitten · · Score: 4, Informative

      But you may not be as happy to see that quality picture on a sports illustrated double spread for instance.

      Sports Illustrated accepts pictures from the Canon 1D (4MP) and the Nikon D1H (2.6MP). Nowadays its staff photographes are mostly using the Canon 1D-II (8MP).

      But, the truth is, number of MP doesn't matter. What matters is the size of the photosites on the sensor. A digicam has little photosites 2x2 microns. To get a picture, you need high amplification, so you get noise in the shadows. You've got a cheap lens, so you get chromatic abberation in the highlights. On top of that, you get low overall contrast. A DSLR on the other hand has photosites 7x7 microns or 9x9 microns. No noise in the shadows at "low" ISOs (which are still higher than most digicams), no abberation in the highlights from those nice lenses, faithful colours overall.

      I've recently got into SLR digital with a 10D. Along with that I got some 'L' series lenses

      I've a D30 with L glass. It's simply not worth me ugrading to a 10D - the photos I get from my 3MP look beautiful printed at 12x8" (using Photoshop to interpolate as necessary). The way the human visual system works, contrast and faithful colour matters more than resolution. All the lamers who bought the Sony F828 have no idea what a mistake that was, they just want more megapixels to boast about - that 2.6MP Nikon completely blows it away.

    17. Re:My camera by AmericanInKiev · · Score: 1

      These are the kind of Magazines that get their ad spreads by fax.

      Yeah I know this breed.

      Probably sells commodities to rednecks.

      Serious printers understand what it takes to get the most from their press. and they probably don't own a fax machine or a 2mp camera - certainly not as part of the copy generating process.

      Johnny come lately - anyone can buy a mac and be in the printing busines types - the kind that think design is best accomplshed by making sure no two consecutive phrases share the same font (or color)

      This is your market for 3MP publication quality cameras.

      The good news is - its a big market.

      AIK

    18. Re:My camera by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What! Next you'll claim that you still use a 1GHZ CPU when 2GHz is available. Consume! Consume!

    19. Re:My camera by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      300 dpi on a 4" x 6" photo is 2.1 MPixel.

      Very few images printed on 1200dpi printers have that many pixels, they are mostly doing interpolation to eliminate jaggies.

    20. Re:My camera by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      One thing a lot of folks miss too is not just the # of pixels, but the size of those pixels.

      Basically, the ol Nikon D1's with 2 megapixels beat the crap out of modern 4-megapixel point and shoots. They have full (or close to full) frame CCDs, so those pixels are much bigger and result from a LOT less noise. You can easily print out nice shots from a camera like that.

    21. Re:My camera by Short+Circuit · · Score: 1

      Personally, I'd like an uber-camera that'd let me turn photos of buildings into texture sets.

      It'd have a decent load of pixels, along with support for saving in a non-lossy format.

    22. Re:My camera by vadim_t · · Score: 2, Informative

      Pretty easy. Printers work differently.

      On my screen I have 1280x1024 pixels. Every pixel is formed from 3 elements: red, green and blue, but they're small enough so that a yellow pixel appears really yellow to me.

      Now, printers print using Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and black. Most cheap printers can't mix colors, which means they have to combine them by dithering. And to make matters even worse, they can't control the intensity. If you have a color printer, try printing colored text. Often it looks pretty ugly.

      This means that in order to print my screen on paper and have it look identical, my printer has to either have a much higher resolution so that dithering isn't visible, or mix colors.

      If you print your photo on a inkjet without scaling, you'll lose detail due to dithering. If you make it bigger, and print it on a really good printer, then it'll come out pixelated. Jagged lines on a printer are much easier to see, probably because on a screen the pixels glow and to some extend mix with the nearby ones, and on a good printer they won't.

    23. Re:My camera by weighn · · Score: 1

      or an uber-uber-camera that turns photos of buildings into buildings

      --
      Mongrel News all the news that fits and froths
    24. Re:My camera by ckaminski · · Score: 1

      I think you're confused. Pixels are pixels. They don't come in different sizes. Sensors, however, do, and those 2MP sensors on the Nikon have more light gathering ability than an el-cheapo camera, hence the ability to faithfully render things like, purple, for instance (I have a purple hat which NO digital camera I've ever used can render properly).

    25. Re:My camera by njcoder · · Score: 5, Informative
      First let me give you some background. I'm a semi professional photographer. I have a full color and black and white darkroom including an automatic film processor for color neg and slides as well as a roller transport processor for prints.

      I mainly shoot 35mm although I do some 6x6cm. I also have a 6.3mp DSLR.

      Megapixels are important when it comes time to print. The issue is that a lot of people use their digicams to display images on the web and never make prints. For profoessional uses, prints are very important as well as having high quality sources for reproduction magazines and other publications. While 2mp may be good for the web, I find the prints lacking. Some people may not be able to tell the difference.

      Before I got a digital camera, I had someone send me a sample portrait from their 3.0 megapixel camera. They claimed they were able to make 32x24" enlargements that looked great. I printed an 8x10 on my fairly good inkjet and I was dissapointed by the results when compared to both my scanned film (from a pretty good film scanner) and prints I've made in my darkroom. The amount of detail lost in things like the eyes were unacceptable to me. It's how when CD's first came out, they stripped out frequencies they thought were outside the human hearing range but people thought they didn't sound good until they added them back in.

      NOw with the 6.3 camera, the results are better but I still like traditional prints from a good negative film, printed through a good lens. The camera also has better metering and white balance features than previous cameras as well. One of the main limitations of most digital sensors in my opinion is that they still use a Bayer pattern. If Foveon can ever reduce their noise issues and get a larger sensor with more megapixels I think that will be orders of magnitudes better. Comparing the current foveon output shot in it's ideal conditions versus cameras with more megapixels provides a stunning difference in the clarity of the photos. There is less interpolation as each sensor registers red, green and blue instead of just one and relying on interpolation.

      What I like about digital is the convenience of getting from the camera to my proofing system in a short amount of time. With film I have a quicker turn around time than most since I can just load my film on reels, turn on the machine (as long as I have chemicals still in it) and have my film ready to scan in less than an hour. Though I then have to scan. I still prefer the quality of the prints though from my hand enlargements, especially when it comes to black and white.

      When I need to make many copies of a print at a time, traditional methods still win out in terms of speed. After coming up with the right exposure and color filtration, which is quick and easy with a good color analyzer, and determining my dodging and burning strategy, I can turn out prints much faster than my inkjet. The difference in cost also favors traditional printing.

      My point, yeah I don't believe megapixels are everything but more data isn't bad since with most newer cameras and sensors, the push for more megapixels also includes better in camera software, better light sensitivity with reduced noise levels, etc. There still needs to be a lot more done in the digital world but it's getting there.

    26. Re:My camera by Greedo · · Score: 1

      Besides ... you could easily take GIGApixel images with your existing camera, using the stiching technique outlined on Max Lyons' website.

      I have yet to try this with my Canon G3 ... no time, no subject matter ... but if the results are anything like Max's, I'll be impressed.

      --
      Tuus crepidae innexilis sunt.
    27. Re:My camera by varjag · · Score: 1

      Let's take a 2 megapixel image for instance. 1600x1200 = 1,920,000 pixels. An 8 inch x 10 inch print of that photo would print at a resolution of 1600/10=160 ppi (dpi) across, and 1200/8=150 ppi (dpi) down. That is low quality, approximately half of what you see in a typical magazine, and is definitely noticable.

      It isn't noticeable unless you put the 8x10 as close to your eyes as a typical magazine, wich doesn't happens often. If you just put the photo on a desk, you won't see any difference over 300dpi.

      (And yes, I have printed 2mpix images at 8x10).

      --
      Lisp is the Tengwar of programming languages.
    28. Re:My camera by CTachyon · · Score: 1

      300 dpi on a 4" x 6" photo is 2.1 MPixel.

      Yeah, but where's your overhead for image post-processing?

      --
      Range Voting: preference intensity matters
    29. Re:My camera by nolife · · Score: 1

      An article describing SI's use of digital cameras for Superbowl 38.

      --
      Bad boys rape our young girls but Violet gives willingly.
    30. Re:My camera by Jim_Maryland · · Score: 1

      I am not a professional photographer (I know few though) but rather take photos as a hobby (and as the unofficial photographer for family events). I haven't moved to the digital side yet, but I am looking (I'm looking at a Minolta that is still in the $1000 range). For all the research that I have done, the megapixels is not the most important point, but rather the features of the camera, namely the ability to use the various lenses I already have for my SLR.

      Depending on what a person is planning to do with the picture, the higher MP may create an extra step. If you take a full resolution picture, your not going to be sending a bunch of these around as email attachments. If you are posting to the web though, you could look at creating thumbnails or working with various image compression and/or "pyramid" files (check out Lizard Tech's MrSID image format, although this is more for often seen in GIS or document management environments or consider JPEG 2000).

      Whle most of the market will be happy with the 2 - 3 MP camera, as long as prices continue to drop you'll find more buying the higher end cameras (which is a good situation to drive prices down even more).

    31. Re:My camera by mysticgoat · · Score: 1

      I don't understand the whole hype about MEGApixXels.
      <snip>

      I have a 2.0 megapixel camera... I've -never- seemed to need a new camera after this year of having owned it. Pictures are pretty clear, they're great for vacation...

      You've got a great fun camera! Perfect for what you are doing with it. I can't see any need for you to replace it, until it gets lost, broken, or worn out. Or your growing photographic skills begin to push against the camera's limitations.

      With your current camera, you should be able to get photorealistic prints up to around 4x5 inches (with a good printer, paper selection, etc). The main advantage for your style of shooting of going to a 3 or 4 MP camera is that you would be able to salvage more of those shots that were almost good, except for all the extraneous garbage, by cropping away up to 75% of the original image and still end up with a photorealistic 4x5 print.

      That has to be balanced against cost and risk factors. There is a place for good low cost 2 MP cameras in professional use-- when I don't want to risk an expensive camera while kayaking, etc.

      A 2 MP camera can be an excellent choice for fun photography. When and if you want to go beyond snapshots and get into digital darkroom work, you will probably want a more capable camera as well.

    32. Re:My camera by carlos_benj · · Score: 2, Informative

      2 to 3 megapixels is great for folks who are sending the pics as email attachments, posting them on the web or even printing snapshots at a kiosk to put in a photo album. You'll probably not see the difference between a 4x6 or even a 5x7 from such a camera and one printed from a 35mm neg.

      Once you start printing larger sizes, the megapixels start to matter, but not necessarily as much as other factors like the glass. What good are twenty megapixels if the lens isn't up to the task? The more you do with the pictures the more the number and quality of those pixels begin to matter.

      --

      --

      As a matter of fact, I am a lawyer. But I play an actor on TV.

    33. Re:My camera by carlos_benj · · Score: 1

      Printing on a high-quality but still consumer-level laser printer tops out around 1200 DPI.

      They CAN print at that resolution (or even higher), but you'll need a loupe to make out any differences between 1200 and a decidedly lower setting. I'd suggest backing off on resolution until you see a change and then boosting it back up a bit. I currently print at 360ppi with an Epson 960 (great output as long as it's working - they've had to send me three replacements under warranty and it looks like I'll have to have a fourth one sent). I've had film bigots who go on and on about the horrible quality of digital prints go suddenly quiet when I hand them my portfolio.

      --

      --

      As a matter of fact, I am a lawyer. But I play an actor on TV.

    34. Re:My camera by smacktits · · Score: 1

      I have a Fuji 2650 which, I think, is one up from yours. I think the only difference is that mine has 3x optical zoom.

      I have absolutely no complaints about the image quality when taken at full resolution (1600x1200). Indeed, some of my photos taken with it have been published.

      A4-sized prints turn out perfectly, albeit with a high-end printer and paper. Crappy cheap inkjets just don't cut it.

    35. Re:My camera by Daytona955i · · Score: 2, Informative

      2 MP pictures do NOT work fine for 8x10 or 8.5x11. Unless you really don't care about what you picture looks like. What real live magazines? Certainly not a photo magazine or anyone else who cares what their images look like.

      I agree that for most people 3-4MP is good for most people... most people take pictures that are blurry/horribly underexposed. For these people it really doesn't matter what kind of camera you give them, their pictures will always come out crappy (Even if they had a $3k DSLR) because they don't understand some basic principles of photography.

      That said, this is a "news for nerds" site... I'd be willing to bet there are a few photography nerds on here that want more than a simple point and shoot. While some people may be fine with grainy, pixilated 8x10s taken with a 2MP camera, I'm not! In fact, my new D70 takes a LOT better pictures than my little 3.1MP point and shoot.

      From midwiferytoday.com (did a quick google search):
      "To print a full-bleed image inside the magazine, a photo must be 9 inches wide by 11.25 inches tall, at 200 dpi minimum resolution. That is well within the range of a 5 MP camera"

      They then say that a 2MP camera is fine for "small" pictures. No respectable magazine is going to print a 2MP picture fullpage.

    36. Re:My camera by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      Err, if I posted a 3.2 Mpx image from my Olympus C740, I don't know many people would bother waiting for the 3Mb file to download unless I told them it was porn... ;-)

    37. Re:My camera by carlos_benj · · Score: 2, Funny

      Thanks for a balanced perspective based on some actual experience. You do realize you're on /. and those aren't requirements, right?

      --

      --

      As a matter of fact, I am a lawyer. But I play an actor on TV.

    38. Re:My camera by s.o.terica · · Score: 2, Insightful
      Displays have approximately 100 DPI (dots per inch) of resolution. Printing on a cheapie inkjet has 300 DPI. Printing on a high-quality but still consumer-level laser printer tops out around 1200 DPI. Each time you double the DPI, you need 4 times as many pixels to attain it.

      Technically true, but misleading. Displays have 100dpi at 24 bits per "dot" (pixel) for a possibility of any of 16.7 million colors per pixel; printers have (approximately, since black is basically equivalent to adding the other colors other colors) 3 bits per dot (On or Off for Cyan, Magenta and Yellow) for a total of 8 possible colors per dot. This means that you have to use a matrix of at least eight dots to even attempt to replicate the same color space that a monitor can display with one dot. This is why antialiasing is so effective on monitors, because a monitor's resolution is three-dimensional instead of two-dimensional

    39. Re:My camera by Jackie_Chan_Fan · · Score: 1

      The growing need for more megapixels, is clarity and resolution.

      I can tell the difference very easily between a 2 megapixel and a 5 megapixel. You can clearly tell the difference between 5 and 10 :)

      Resolution is the first noticeable difference.

      But also whats important is color, clarity and sharpness.

      Both improve dramatically with higher megal pixel CCDs. And most cameras use a single CCD for RGB, which creates even more color problems.

      Ideally we would all want a camera that has a CCD for each color, and luminance.

      The difference becomes very noticeable when you use a 3 CCD chip camera in video productions, and i've had family members look at my video productions and say "WOW.. That is a nice camera" I say "Its a professional grade camera" they say "I CAN SEE!"

      So its noticeable. Perhaps they're marveling at my editing ability, the color correction, the effects work... (i am a professional 3d character animator, modeller, video editor and occasional director ... ) So perhaps its the presentation that makes it all look "proffesional", perhaps its the shutter settings i use, and the fact that i know how to use a camera from a lighting and composition point of view... But they notice a difference.

      If you go to dpreview.net and look at the reviews for some of the highest end digital cameras, you will notice the difference quick. The clarity is remarkable. Remember we're transforming a visual into a digital signal. The standard problems apply. Color tones, Aliasing, etc.

      Higher megapixels, better CCDs, multiple CCDS.. will improve clarity and your 2 megapixel camera which may be fine for you, it may be convient and compact and thus still usefull... but the quality will be dramatically less than digital cameras 3 years from now.

      Also the issue is artistic works. Most people point and shoot. They dont understand lighting, film speeds, shutters, and the effect they have on imagery. They dont understand composition, they dont understand how a camera works. They just want to take pictures of their family on vacation at disney world.

      Now if they did know all of those things, those pictures could look remarkable. But they require a camera that allows you to tinker with a lot of settings to optimize the image. And those who know how, are those who stand out as good photographers. Its what seperates a pro from a novice. And it usually requires much more complex equiptment.

      On a consumer level, you can guy a canon g3, or g5 and have plenty of control to do some nice imagery. I mean breathtaking stuff, especailly if you know how to controll all of the features. But those features will improve over time as well as the CCDs in the camera. So if you really know what you're doing, you'll demand a lot of percise control, but acts as best as it can. And since its all digital, those controls and features can improve dramatically. They are "digital" versions of analogue camera functions. For example "Film Speed" :) What the hell is that?! Theres no film! hehe Well once they improve the "FILM SPEED" function, we'll have better low light capability. Which really simply translates to, better CCD quality that can capture low light better because there is no film speed, cuz there aint no film :)

    40. Re:My camera by Jackie_Chan_Fan · · Score: 1

      Perhaps this is true... But there is a difference and quality is greatly improved. We're not talking just about resolution, but clarity of colors, sharpness, and so forth.

      The question is price.

      Will high end digital cameras become the Ferraris while low end 2mega pixel ccd cameras remain the hondas?

      Will the higher end technology "Trickle down" Or will the mass market of mom and pops who simply point and shoot, say "we dont need another one"

      Which would perhaps create a huge problem for folks like me who want higher megapixel cameras with more control, for standard low cost prices.

    41. Re:My camera by C10H14N2 · · Score: 1

      But, the truth is, number of MP doesn't matter.

      Bull. Although pixels are in a uniform matrix and film grain is randomly distributed, thus it takes a lower density of grain in the emulsion to achieve a particular level of visual quality than uniform pixels, that density still matters no matter how it is arranged. If it didn't, professionals would be using KodakDisc film instead of 120.

      Yeah, there are many, many factors that go into making a good image, the greatest of which is the quality of the optics, but to say that the number of pixels doesn't matter is a load of crap.

    42. Re:My camera by cens0r · · Score: 1

      I have to agree about the Fuji. I have the same camera and I think it will do everything that 90% of the population needs. It's pictures look great when printed at 4x6 and 5x7, in fact I think they rival my Canon AE-1. At 8x10 they don't stand up to serious scrutiny, but if framed and put on a wall you still have to get pretty close to tell they aren't from film.

      I'm actually glad all the super mega-pixel cameras are out now. I'm hoping that it will drive down the cost of the 3-4 megapixel SLR's on the used market. Althouh I love my Fuji, I do like having a SLR when I know I want to take some serious photo's.

      --
      Jack Valenti and Orrin Hatch will be first up against the wall when the revolution comes.
    43. Re:My camera by Dirk+Pitt · · Score: 1

      I was looking at the photos linked on your website -- great work. Do you do B&W only on conventional print film, or do you use the D30? If you do use digital, how do you get acceptable prints? I know there are some good piezo systems out there, but they're a fortune. My i960 prints noticably blue photos, as do, so far as I know, all inkjets.

    44. Re:My camera by sql*kitten · · Score: 1

      I was looking at the photos linked on your website -- great work. Do you do B&W only on conventional print film, or do you use the D30?

      Thanks! Most of the stuff there was shot on film, but some on the D30 and converted to B&W in Capture One.

      For draft prints I use an inkjet (Canon i475), just so I can hold them up on the wall and see how they'd look. For "real" prints, I upload a maximum quality JPEG to Photobox and they do the print on a Fuji Frontier on Crystal Archive paper.

    45. Re:My camera by KoshClassic · · Score: 1
      The main advantage for your style of shooting of going to a 3 or 4 MP camera is that you would be able to salvage more of those shots that were almost good, except for all the extraneous garbage, by cropping away up to 75% of the original image and still end up with a photorealistic 4x5 print.

      Exactly! I think 2 or 3 MP is probably enough if you framed the shot perfectly. But if you didn't and you want to crop it, and you still want a decent amount of pixels in the resulting crop (especially if you want to print the resulting crop), starting with 2 or 3 megapixels in the original image is probably not going to be enough for a lot of situations.

      Say you took the exact same photo with two cameras. I'll use the Nikon D70 dSLR as one example - it produces 6.1 MP images (3008x2000). I'll use a hypothetical 3MP camera as another example (for purposes of this example, I want both cameras to have the same ~ 3:2 aspect ratio so that I'm comparing apples to apples. Even though most digicams do not have that aspect ratio, the point remains the same) that takes images at 2132*1424. Crop 10% off each edge of the image. On the Nikon you're left with an image roughly 2400x1400, ~ 3.3 megapixels. Do the same thing on the 3MP camera and you're left with 1706x1104, roughly 1.9 megapixels. Start with a 2 megapixel camera and you'll be left with even less.

      So, the point is, if you're going to be doing any serious cropping of your images, a 2 or 3MP digicam is probably not going to leave you with enough pixels to be able to make decent prints if we figure that the final image we're printing needs 2 or 3MP to look good.

      --
      Understanding is a three edged sword. - Ambassador Kosh Naranek, Babylon 5
    46. Re:My camera by RetroGeek · · Score: 1

      Megapixels are important when it comes time to print.

      I am about to get a Nikon D70 (to fit my Nikon FE lenses). I will also be getting a colour printer.

      Since you have obviously played around with this stuff, what is your take on printers?

      --

      - - - - - - - - - - -
      I am a programmer. I am paid to produce syntax not grammar. Deal with it.
    47. Re:My camera by njcoder · · Score: 1
      As far as printers go... The epsons are nice. I've always liked them. The pigment ink versions are pretty good in terms of longevity which has been a very week point in ink jet printers. They used to have a problem with dull colors but the new ultrachrome inks go a long way to improving that.

      When the epson 2200 came out it was a very popular printer for photographers. It's big brothers also turned up in a lot of photo labs. I just noticed there's an R800 is a lot cheaper than the 2200 but uses the same ink technology. I haven't looked at all the specs but I'm assuming it might be slower and can only print up to 8.something inches wide as opped to the 13" of the 2200.

      Any digital output I frame or sell either goes to a lab that I know has a good operator and a digital minilab like a fuji frontier or agfa dlab or a higher end commercial lab that uses a lightjet. The quality of those is a lot better than ink jet. You get continuous tone (rather than tiny dots) and the permancence of fuji crystal archive seems to be a lot more proven than epson's new ultrachromes. Only time will really tell though. I haven't upgraded my inkjet in years. Now that I saw the r800 I might be interested in one but I didn't have a need to get the 2200 since anything important I send out to a good lab.

      If you're going to get an inkjet I'd say at least look into something that has had accelerated testing for longevity like the epson's that use the ultrachrome ink. Otherwise, you're spending a lot of money on each print and it will have noticable defects in a short period of time.

      Sending out to a lba will be cheaper in most cases as the cost of RA-4 paper and chemicals is pretty cheap. There are some good online places but I'd say find some place local. Support your local photolabs rather than trying to save 5 cents a print. Creating a good relationship with your printer is important. The picture taking is only half of what makes a great print. The printing is very important. Get used to photoshop as well. Don't go to crazy with all the different filters and make it look like cartoon crap but knowing how to adjust contrast, color balancing, local density controls, etc. can really make an image shine without resorting to eye candy effects. Not to say all effects are bad but too many people think you can take a crappy photo and since you've applied some artistic brush technique to it, it's now a work of art.

      The printing is as important as the picture taking. Sometimes I'll spend weeks redoing a single image in the darkroom until it really does it for me. Same goes for digital, I can spend weeks on an image on the computer until I know I've got it where I want it.

      Know what you're getting into, what local labs are available and such... working on a solution for that if I have time to gather the financing... :( and don't forget you're doing this to enjoy yourself :)

    48. Re:My camera by carlos_benj · · Score: 1

      Use jpeg. My 5 megapixel images are closer to 2 meg files.

      --

      --

      As a matter of fact, I am a lawyer. But I play an actor on TV.

    49. Re:My camera by BrokenHalo · · Score: 1

      You're missing the point. What I'm saying is that a 3.2 Mpx image is well beyond requirements (or even usefulness) for web publishing. Even with jpeg such an image goes well of the edge of the screen unless you have extremely kickass hardware.

    50. Re:My camera by Wiseleo · · Score: 1

      The real problem then is photographers not composing the shots right and using wrong resolution such as 640x480 in economy mode on a 4Mp Sony camera.

      It's quite amusing to hear people blame their technically far superior cameras when I show up at my local Walmart to simply dump some shots from my SD card into the Aladdin box and walk away in 10 seconds without doing any adjustments. My pictures always come out good. In fact, if I see people thoroughly frustrated with the system, such as when they reset all the changes they did, I ask to use it for 20 seconds and show them a couple of easy things. I have a strong opinion that there should be no option to do photo editing on public terminals.

      My camera is a 2Mp Casio Exilim EX-S2. It's one of those tiny card sized marvels. It's far taking excellent images in conventional sense, but it was designed for my needs quite perfectly (no zoom so the shots are instant, battery life that actually lasts almost 300 shots with both LCD and flash on continuously, very tiny, covert video mode (especially with LCD off...), low light mode that's actually usable etc). I see some fairly horrid shots routinely from some very nice cameras. I never need to edit my shots for brightness and contrast in any way. I haven't used crop in months either.

      Casio got it right with a very intuitive menu system that is very easy to use. The rest of cameras can be quite difficult to figure out to reset certain things on the fly. I can reconfigure electronics easily without manuals, but most cameras I had to reset for these people took me over 4 minutes to figure out, which means a steep learning curve for most people :-).

      If an amateur needs to crop, that means the shot wasn't setup right in the first place. If the white balance is off, well, that takes all of 20 seconds to correct in the shooting situation. Red eyes? I suppose red-eye correction wasn't used. That's the root of the problem and no amount of megapixels will solve it. Zoom lenses combined with consumer-level autofocus substantially complicate matters as well. I have very few shots with messed up focus in some messy situations.

      Could I use a 4Mp camera like the Z4U? Zoom lens and 4Mp wouldn't be too useful as the image quality is bad as is already.

      Learn to compose perfect shots, and only after then get the extra technology. There is a reason why you get taught photography in college with a manual SLR on b&w film.

      --
      Leonid S. Knyshov
      Find me on Quora :)
    51. Re:My camera by xmas2003 · · Score: 1
      If you think you have an issue with that "extra step, read about the guy who generated a GIGA-pixel image of the Grand Canyon - while that is an extreme case, the reality is that you should (!) always take that extra step - it's kinda a pain to get an incoming MByte+ JPEGs when a less than 100 KByte 800X600 crop saved with reasonable JPEG compression will do just fine for view purposes - you can always Email your friend back and ask 'em for the digital original if you want to print it.

      BTW, along the lines of that Grand Canyon shot, Page 3 of the original article also showed a stitched panorama of Pike Peak, Colorado - if you are interested, here is series of pictures of Longs Peak Colorado which includes a Longs Peak Panorama similar to the one in the original article - this is yet another example where digital makes stuff like this easier.

      --
      Hulk SMASH Celiac Disease
    52. Re:My camera by mysticgoat · · Score: 1

      Perhaps I'm feeding a troll, but I'm going to respond in a general way.

      Wiseleo writes: The real problem then is photographers not composing the shots right...

      I disagree. The point of photography is to end up with a good print or display image. Whether the composition part of that is mostly done before the shutter click or by reworking the raw image in the computer is not really important. Whether there were 100 hundred snaps that were garbage and thrown away is also unimportant when judging the quality of the one good shot.

      I see some fairly horrid shots routinely from some very nice cameras. I never need to edit my shots for brightness and contrast in any way. I haven't used crop in months either.

      It sounds like Wiseleo is getting a great deal of expertise in taking certain kind of shots. But I don't think his advice is very good for most amateurs.

      I think the key that separates shutterbugs from serious amateurs isn't anything so simple as applying the principles of composition. It is about will power, the stuff that makes successful diets.

      Serious amateur photographers have developed a willingness to ruthlessly cull 90% to 99% of the shots they take, and only show others the few good pictures that remain. It is in making these "keep or toss" choices where you truly gain an appreciation for good composition, color use, and other aspects of the art. And you also gain a mental discipline that will allow you to experiment successfully. Knowing that you are going to throw most of your shots away allows you the freedom to take risks with different camera angles and settings. Every once in a while, those risks pay off in a big way.

  2. I've advised several friends on digital camera... by Dagny+Taggert · · Score: 5, Insightful

    ...purchases in the last few months and I have to say that the "megapixel race" is becoming like the megahertz race in that many people use that feature alone as their determining factor. Rarely do they want to discuss optical versus digital zoom (something that Kodak is addressing with their DX6490, a 10X OPTICAL zoom in an inexpensive, well-built camera), output format, etc.

    --
    Don't be a looter...and yes, I know that it's spelled with an "A" instead of an "E".
  3. Not bad. Why not concentrate on F/OSS by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Not bad. Why not concentrate on F/OSS abit more. As it is it doesn't look much more than any article you might find on any photography site, very photoshop centric. With barely a mention of GIMP.

    1. Re:Not bad. Why not concentrate on F/OSS by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      that article sucks. it's non technical, it's not even news. Every nerd can google for such information.

    2. Re:Not bad. Why not concentrate on F/OSS by PetrusMagnusII · · Score: 1

      More then that, why would they mention GIMP?? Have you ever heard of a real photographer ussing gimp?? I mean honestly.. .when it comes to real photography, Photoshop is the ONLY option. Now, if you're messing around with a 2.0 mega pixel point and shoot with a 3x digital zoom, sure, gimp will do what you need it to do.. umm,, open the image and maybe resize it.. but, if you're talking about a 4 thousand dollar nikon body with maybe 9,000 invested in lenses and your photographs are your livelyhood, you're gunna be needing to do more then just rotate the image.. Photoshop is more then just the standard, it's pretty much the only way to do it..
      GIMP's come a long way, which is good and all, but it's still nothing more then a toy as far as a professional is going to be concerned..

    3. Re:Not bad. Why not concentrate on F/OSS by lunax · · Score: 1

      Somewhere in the GIMP literature they do (or did) mention that it's still not something to be used prfessionally. It has been used for some profesional applications, but there is a reason it's not the top choice for pro's. After all people still choose to spend hunders of dollars on Photoshop and they do it for a reason. It's been a while since I've used GIMP but I know it didn't and am prety sure it still doesn't handle things like profiles (correct me if I'm wrong). This is one reason I don't use it, if I can't guarantee color quality when I print or import the image it it does me no good. It's an excelent program but it still needs to grow before becoming a professional tool to substitue Photoshop.

    4. Re:Not bad. Why not concentrate on F/OSS by darrylo · · Score: 1

      As others have said, the articles were about cameras, not software.

      That said, I'd like to point out that the GIMP can't handle the full resolution of what the better cameras are producing. The issue is that the GIMP can only handle 8 bits per color, and this probably won't be changing for a long time (I think the GIMP developers said, "2006, maybe"). Cameras like the Canon Digital Rebel output RAW files with 12 bits per color, and the GIMP just can't handle this.

      On the other hand, cinepaint, a fork of GIMP, can supposedly handle this, but I haven't tried it.

  4. RTFA by JamieKitson · · Score: 0

    Isn't that the whole point of the article? Hence the title? But then I guess this is slashdot after all.

  5. One Use... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Aerial photography would be a good application, needs GOOD resolution, but the average consumer won't have access to aircraft.
    Then again the average consumer buys a P4 3.4GHZ EE with FX5900 XT and 4GB of Ram to use type reports so... why the hell not,eh?

  6. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by pcmanjon · · Score: 1

    Yeah I know dagny. I mean, it'd be better if cameras had zoom like those old cameras that photographers use.

    You know, where you buy them and they come with interchangable lenses?

    I'd LOVE a digitam cam like that, so I could have super super super zoom or just a normal cam... etc...

    Have those cameras become a thing of the past where "fixed lense" cameras are the new craze with 100 megapixel resolution?

  7. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1

    You can buy digital SLR bodies with changeable lenses. Expect to pay several thousand pounds.

  8. Megapixel by Agret · · Score: 0, Interesting

    Almost all digital cameras have 2 megapixels these days, it's around about the industry standard, nobody needs any more in my opinion. I have a 2 megapixel camera which cost $300, my dad has a 2 megapixel camera which cost $599, theres really no difference mega-pixel wise, of course for more money your going to get a higher resolution and more features, thats off-topic though. I really don't think there's much difference once you get over 2 megapixels though, of course Digital Photographers (professional ones) would complain beacuse it's not a perfect picture when they look through a microscope at 300x though.

    --
    Have you metaroderated recently?
    1. Re:Megapixel by PetrusMagnusII · · Score: 1

      For most people you're absolutely right. point and shoot , 2.0 is plenty... but, the point of the article is that mega pixel isn't the only thing you should be looking at.. all mega pixel is gunna tell you is the dimentions of the camera.
      example, my friend has a 5.0mega pixel sony.. the pictures are pretty big, but that's about it.. compare it to my 6.1mega pixel nikon d70.. put a picture that both cameras took side by side, you'll notice the difference..
      if you're just taking pictures for fun, not a bid deal...

      but anyways.. the whole point of the article is mega pixel doesn't mean quality, just size.. and that pretty much is worthless...

    2. Re:Megapixel by grannyknot · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I really don't think there's much difference once you get over 2 megapixels though

      2.0 megapixels may be fine for you, but if you want enlarged colour prints, good luck.

      And that's not really the point of this (extremely brief) article anyhow - it's not the number of pixels you have so much as how you use them (or what physical size within the camear they happen to be).

    3. Re:Megapixel by SweetZombieJesus · · Score: 1

      Well, to be honest, most people could care less about enlarging. If they're getting a picture printed, it's going to be a standard 6"x4". Those few that want to enlarge bigger than that are the pros and semi-pros, (which is a pretty low percentage of camera users), and they should get a nice costly camera, or use film.

      I for one am happy that the megapixels are going up, but my 3.2 meagpixel camera does a fine job for now.

      --
      Cheezit! We're boned! - famous 31st Century bending unit
  9. The other two: by cablepokerface · · Score: 5, Informative
    1. Re:The other two: by mrgeometry · · Score: 1

      Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

    2. Re:The other two: by RotJ · · Score: 1

      RTFA-ers would have known these links are already listed at the beginning of the article. Therefore the people who marked the parent post informative must not have been RTFA-ers.

    3. Re:The other two: by RotJ · · Score: 1

      But you're linking to the slashdot posts. Therefore I didn't read your post.

    4. Re:The other two: by cablepokerface · · Score: 0

      Although I am mighty curious why it is such a big deal to you why I posted 2 links, the reason is that some people may be interested in the slashdot community discussions that the first 2 initiated. That's all.

  10. Linux and RAW. by caluml · · Score: 5, Informative

    Linux users can use the dcraw util to convert RAW into TIFF format. It also has a plugin for GIMP which works fine. On my camera though, the RAW files are 6.3Mb, and the TIFFs created with dcraw are 18Mb.

    Have a look at my pics, too. :)

    1. Re:Linux and RAW. by afidel · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Yeah but when you convert you lose the ability to do all of the advanced image manipulation stuff based on sensor information. There are tons of different transforms that work MUCH better if they have the info directly from the sensors rather than a pixel value extrapolated from those values. Personally I think I would run Photoshop and my camera vendors RAW utilities under xover office before just dumping the data to TIFF, otherwise why not just use superfine JPEG?

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    2. Re:Linux and RAW. by JamesD_UK · · Score: 1

      Readers may also be interested in Free Software for the Nikon D70.

    3. Re:Linux and RAW. by ookaze · · Score: 2, Informative

      If you read the DCRaw story and homepage, you would see that the Photoshop CS plugin using at least part of dcraw, but, most importantly, that dcraw produces better results than the proprietary converter softs (see the links on the homepage).

      The cool thing about the RAW format is that you can then apply all the transforms the camera is doing, but with a more powerful computer, meaning you use, hopefully, more powerful, but more demanding algorithms. You can still refer to your camera to get the actual settings when the photo was shot, or use Wine (under Linux) with some proprietary converters. That is not a problem. There are some tools for some cameras (like Canon, which I have) that can extract the infos.
      There are links on the DCRaw page for that too.

    4. Re:Linux and RAW. by Alan · · Score: 1

      I just did a digicam presentation for my LUG and included info on dcraw. There is also VueScan which allows more complex RAW manipulation, though the UI is a bit wacky. Cross platform non-free software, but it works well, and deals with scanners, files, etc.

    5. Re:Linux and RAW. by darrylo · · Score: 1

      The biggest problem is that there is only one (linux) editor that can properly handle RAW files, and it's not the GIMP (it's cinepaint, which is a fork of GIMP).

      The issue is that, to take full advantage of RAW, you need an editor that can handle at least 16 bits per color (48bpp), and the GIMP can only handle 8 bits (and, when asked about >8-bit support, I think the GIMP developers said something like, "2006, maybe"). Having the extra resolution is very nice when trying to pull out shadow details. (OK, Canon RAW has only 12 bits, but 12 bits is still more than GIMP can handle.)

      (For the unwashed in the peanut gallery: yes, most people don't need more than 8 bits per color when printing, but I'm not talking about printing. Think about it.)
    6. Re:Linux and RAW. by darrylo · · Score: 1
      Personally I think I would run Photoshop and my camera vendors RAW utilities under xover office before just dumping the data to TIFF, otherwise why not just use superfine JPEG?

      Canon RAW has 12 bits per color; jpeg has only 8, and even superfine jpeg loses some image detail from the lossy compression (although whether or not it's significant depends on the subject). The extra four bits can be very significant when processing to bring out extra shadow detail.

      Also, as much as I like GIMP, the GIMP can't take full advantage of RAW, as it can only handle 8 bits per color (not 12). Your point about conversion is true only if you convert from RAW to 8-bit (per color) TIFF. Converting to 16-bit (per color) TIFF is much better (although, as I've said, the GIMP can't handle this).

    7. Re:Linux and RAW. by Nurf · · Score: 1

      I was quite excited about dcraw until I actually tried it.

      Its Bayer Demosaicing is terrible. It's several times worse than the in-camera algorithm on my Nikon D70. It's so bad that I can't use it for any of my raw processing needs. Problems are visible to the nacked eye even when the image is scaled down to fit on my 1600x1200 display.

      I'll be writing my own demosaicer (or hacking dcraw or something) when I get the chance. Until then I guess I'll live with Nikon Capture 4.1. :-P

      --
      ---
  11. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by FraggedSquid · · Score: 4, Insightful

    I remember watching a review of digital cameras on a gadget show a year or so ago. The reviewer pointed out that the key to the image was the lens, if that is bad, then nothing else matters.

    Don't talk pixels, talk optics.

    --
    You don't need a lab to make mud.
  12. Olympus C-XXXX by YrWrstNtmr · · Score: 4, Informative

    I have a C-3000 that does exactly that. Interchangeable lenses, filters, whatever. Just like a regular film SLR. Reasonable price, too.

  13. Beyond megapixels by Ianoo · · Score: 5, Informative

    I think the general sentiment of this article is very true. I remember when I bought my first digital camera, it was a case of the biggest number of pixels winning. In those days 1.0MP cameras were pretty expensive, and I remember being overjoyed that I managed to get a great deal on a Kodak that reached this "magic figure" producing 1152x864 images - rather than most of the other cameras within my price bracket at the time which were between 640x480 and 1024x768.

    Skip forward to last month, and I bought my third digital camera. There were 3MP, 4MP and 5MP models within my price range, but in the end, I settled for a 4MP model with a great lens, full manual control and some nifty other features (a Canon Powershot A80, I'd recommend this model to anyone after a fortnight of snapping with it). It produces 2272x1704 images, quite a lot bigger than I'm ever likely to need.

    1. Re:Beyond megapixels by DoctorGrim · · Score: 1

      I recently got an a80 as well and have been very pleased with it. I'm not a big photographer or anything, but it does what I need. There's an almost full range of manual controls. You can attach external lenses as well, although I think they may need to be specially made for the a80 (not sure on this). The other thing that is kind of irritating is that it only takes jpeg's. No RAWs. But other than that, a very nice camera for the price. Oh, and no external flash.

  14. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by SteveM · · Score: 4, Informative

    I'd LOVE a digitam cam like that,...

    Digital SLRs are available starting at US$899 (list) for the Canon Digital Rebel/300D/Kiss Digital (the name varies by region).

    Visit here to learn more.

    SteveM

  15. Why Megapixels? by KlausBreuer · · Score: 5, Interesting

    Well, you do need a certain minimum of megapixels, so you can have your photo printed. See, I never print photos on my PC (which is why I don't need an inkjet* with highly expensive ink (1 liter = 1 kg Gold)), but bring or send them to the photoshop instead.
    They will print it using a seriously good printer on great paper, and charge a pittance for it. Some shops (and websites) also allow me to design a nice hardcover book full of my photos and text, which makes a great present for friends and family.

    But the requirement-limit is at, what, between 3 and 5 megapixels. Using more is useful for cutting images and having only a small part printed, but this happens rather rarely.

    Instead I want the following:

    * a good optical lens (come on, an f of 2.8 is not that great, unless you live in a really sunny country) with a solid optical zoom (who CARES about digital zoom?).

    * Use standard AA rechargable batteries - they are cheap, hold a heck of a charge by now, and are easily replacable - with plain batteries if necessary.
    Keep in mind that these things have to be replaced every now and then, and a propriatary one isn't cheap.

    * Use CF cards. Cheap, fast, big, and under steady development.

    * Allow me to access the camera via USB as an external drive, without needing some kind of stupid program.

    * Reasonably small, so I will usually carry it with me in my pocket instead of leaving it at home due to bulk/weight.

    Currently, I use the Canon A70/A75/A80. I can recommend them all, except for the lens (2.8, but this currently is standard, except for the great Olympus 5050 with 1.8), and the interface (I have to pop out the CF to read it - I'm not using some kiddy-aimed windows program here).
    Not too expensive, either (nope, I have no connection to the manufacturer).

    Ciao,
    Klaus

    * Tip: Buy a used postscripting laserprinter with >= 600 dpi. Dirt cheap, toner lasts forever, you'll love it. And no drivers needed, ever.

    --
    Free PC version of ChipWits at http://www.breueronline.de/klaus/chipwits/
    1. Re:Why Megapixels? by mcwop · · Score: 1
      --

      "I don't think it's selfish, to eat defenseless shellfish." -NOFX

    2. Re:Why Megapixels? by sql*kitten · · Score: 1

      come on, an f of 2.8 is not that great, unless you live in a really sunny country

      Actually, 2.8 is fine on a camera that gives acceptable quality at ISO 400. The lens I use most on my Canon D30 is a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 and it's fine for available-light shooting indoors. In fact I don't recall when I last used the flash on that camera. Outdoors I drop to ISO 100 or 200.

    3. Re:Why Megapixels? by StateOfTheUnion · · Score: 4, Insightful
      * a good optical lens (come on, an f of 2.8 is not that great, unless you live in a really sunny country) with a solid optical zoom (who CARES about digital zoom?).

      There's a lot more to a lens than the F-stop . . . 2.8 is pretty darn good in a lot of the pro-lense market for SLR's. Getting larger aperatures than this often causes significant distortion in the lens . . . hence the super-expensive cost of the really fast lens, or in the case of a lot of consumer level digital cameras, crummy optics that result in a loss of sharpness . . . this is going the way of the megapixel wars . . . uninformed consumers think that larger aperature and bigger zoom = better camera . . . typically the truth is larger aperature and bigger zoom = crappier overall sharpness and more lens distortion . . . which amounts to crappy looking pictures.

      Personally, I'll take my Nikon Coolpix 5000 with its slower lens (3.3) over just about any faster lens consumer digital camera any day . . . I know that the optics aren't perfect, I bought it 4 years ago, but even by today's standards, the optics are a lot better than most consumer digi-cams I've seen. And I'll take my Digital SLR over that . . . any day.

    4. Re:Why Megapixels? by jimmyfergus · · Score: 1

      I'm with you on this, but standard AA rechargeables conflict with reducing camera size. Also, NiMH batteries loose charge faster than Lithium Ion/Polymer, so if you leave your camera unused for the odd month occasionally, they're not necessarily so great. I'd rather spend the extra $30 or whatever Li* adds to the price.

      I don't understand why they can't make the fixed-lens prosumer models the size of the very smallest, apart from the larger optics... Closest to this seems to be the Sony DSC-V1. These cameras should be little more than a lens with an LCD attached (flip and twist)! Small is good - camera's not much use if you can't be bothered to carry it.

      Finally, my pet peeve is that the long end of the zoom is usually pushed at the expense of the wide angle. Some start at 38mm equivalent, and lots around 34mm. A lens starting at 28mm is very desirable for me - for capturing vistas and indoor parties. For a 4x lens, give me a 28-112mm over 34-134mm any day (f2.0 of course...).

    5. Re:Why Megapixels? by Wolfier · · Score: 1

      1. Digital zoom is sometimes useful - treat it as "lossless cropping" when you shoot JPEG.

      2. These Canon cameras use PTP. Doesn't act as a USB drive, but isn't proprietary either. Gphoto can read from them. No need to get a CF reader.

    6. Re:Why Megapixels? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Working in the image-matching business has given me a certain amount of scepticism about camera hype, and I can allow myself to get pretty depressed about claims by certain well-branded companies. Hence, an anonymous posting. No shooting the messenger.

      However, one of the more interesting phenomena I've encountered is cameras with otherwise fine optics that produce non-square pixels. Since none of these articles have discussed non-square pixels, perhaps it is not an issue for consumer models. I don't believe it. I've seen too many strange images ... This is mostly a software issue.

      My experience with multiple saves of JPEGs being much worse with some cameras than others might also be a non-square pixel issue, not a JPEG format issue. I've seen the same image quality differences with GIFs.

    7. Re:Why Megapixels? by archeopterix · · Score: 2, Informative
      See, I never print photos on my PC (which is why I don't need an inkjet* with highly expensive ink (1 liter = 1 kg Gold)), but bring or send them to the photoshop instead.
      The ink is only that expensive if you buy the original cartridges from your printer manufacturer. The printer manufacturers strive to make their cartridges incompatible with everything else, but for most ink printers you can get a decent continuous flow system. This way you buy only ink, which costs an order of magnitude less per liter than cartridge ink and adds satisfaction of not being screwed by the printer manufacturer.

      The only downside is that you lose your warranty, but if you print a lot, then you can quickly buy a new printer with the money saved :-)

    8. Re:Why Megapixels? by rdewalt · · Score: 1

      No need to get a CF reader.

      Actually, I preferr to use the CF -> PCMCIA adapter for reading CF cards. I have a 256M card I keep in my digital camera, and often never empty it, I'll keep the pictures on the card so that I never forget. And while there are some nice USB2 card readers out there, PCMCIA's bus speed (which doesn't even compare versus Cardbus, and I don't recall the USB2.0 speeds) is far, far superior than my laptop's USB1.0 speed.

      Downloading 200M of images, takes quite a bit over USB, over pcmcia, its as fast as the HD in the computer. I can delete the crap ones and always have it handy.

    9. Re:Why Megapixels? by mttlg · · Score: 2, Informative

      Small is good - camera's not much use if you can't be bothered to carry it.

      Smaller isn't always best. By reducing the size and weight, you sacrifice stability - a larger, heavier camera with a well-made grip will be easier to keep still in a wider variety of situations. Larger size also allows for faster lenses, all of which makes it easier to take good available light pictures in low light conditions. The greater stability also helps when you add a hot shoe flash or filters/lenses.

      The bottom line is that one camera won't meet everyone's needs in all situations. A compact camera is nice to carry around for occasional pictures, but a larger camera is better suited to longer engagements.

      A lens starting at 28mm is very desirable for me - for capturing vistas and indoor parties. For a 4x lens, give me a 28-112mm over 34-134mm any day (f2.0 of course...).

      Depending on the sensor used, that's probably going to be a big lens requiring a large camera body (so much for that compact camera you wanted). For comparison, take a look at the Olympus C-5060 (1/1.8" sensor, 27mm-110mm 4x zoom, F2.8-F4.8 aperture) and Olympus C-8080 (2/3" sensor, 28mm-140mm 5x zoom, F2.4-F3.5 aperture). Without the wide angle, there's the Olympus C-5050 (1/1.8" sensor, 35mm-105mm 3x zoom, F1.8-F2.6 aperture).

    10. Re:Why Megapixels? by Maltheus · · Score: 1

      I just got a Canon Powershot S1 IS that seems to fit many of your requirements. 4 AA batteries, 10x optical zoom, CF card (or microdrive if so inclined), one of the smallests ultrazooms out there. Best of all, it has an image stabilization feature that can give you an extra couple of stops and it has a movie mode that's on par with DV cams (640x480 @ 30 fps).

      It's only three mega-pixels, but I don't care about printing 8x10s. The only thing I hate about it is the lens cap falls off if you so much as sneeze. Someone should get fired for that one. Oh yeah, the pictures are great.

      --chris

    11. Re:Why Megapixels? by jimmyfergus · · Score: 1
      By reducing the size and weight, you sacrifice stability

      Absolutely. I definitely wouldn't advocate all cameras should be small and light. However, that's the direction I'd like the compromise. Chunkier cameras should and will always be available for those who don't want the stability and ergonomic compromise.

      While there's no doubt that the features I want (high light sensitivity, wide zoom, and preferably short depth-of-field potential) mean large optics, what I really want is to have the electronics from a tiny camera tacked onto the large lens, so the overall package is as small as is feasible. Right now, I love my Canon G2 but never have it on hand because it's too big to pocket.

    12. Re:Why Megapixels? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      the new Canon Powesrshot S1 IS (with Image stabiliser) and DV quality movie capability is your choice.

      Great optics - the lens is a high-class GLASS lens, 10x optical zoom and 3.2 megapixel.

    13. Re:Why Megapixels? by KilobyteKnight · · Score: 1
      Sample Pics 1 - may appear dark on non-Macs with bad graphics cards


      It will look bad to anyone who doesn't really, really like orange.
      --
      When will Windows be ready for the desktop?
    14. Re:Why Megapixels? by blankmange · · Score: 1

      Or try switching to a consumer dye-sub printer, so it removes the cost of inkjet ransoms altogether, and prints at about half the price...

      --
      ...we are from the government - we are here to help...
    15. Re:Why Megapixels? by mcwop · · Score: 1

      I'll request that the rock gym repaint their walls a different color.

      --

      "I don't think it's selfish, to eat defenseless shellfish." -NOFX

    16. Re:Why Megapixels? by KilobyteKnight · · Score: 1
      I'll request that the rock gym repaint their walls a different color.

      You do that. I, personally, would just adjust the white balance.
      --
      When will Windows be ready for the desktop?
    17. Re:Why Megapixels? by mcwop · · Score: 1
      Thank you. That is a far more constructive comment. Getting the white balance right under the conditions was difficult, because lighting changed from moment-to-moment (other flashes, videographer spotlights). Additionally, this set of pictures is unaltered - direct from camera to site - no Photoshop correction.

      Any suggestions for changing White Bal quickly under fast changing conditions are appreciated.

      --

      "I don't think it's selfish, to eat defenseless shellfish." -NOFX

  16. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by trs998 · · Score: 1

    My Fuji S602Zoom has a threaded ring and a 55mm ring on the outer edge of its lens adapter.

    I can put the Fuji zoom or wide angle lens on, and I've got a Cokin adapter for filters. I'm going to find out if it'll focus through a 'generic' zoom lens if i can adapt it on. probably.

    The camera is a 'fake' slr (0.3mp digital viewfinder in addition to screen) but I can't see any benefits to it being a real slr (harder to superimpose shutter information for a start).

    While they've just been superseded by IIRC the 6900 they're about GBP 450.

  17. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by ttsalo · · Score: 1, Funny
    I mean, it'd be better if cameras had zoom like those old cameras that photographers use.

    Old cameras didn't have zooms.

    I'd LOVE a digitam cam like that

    Check out Canon EOS 300D (Canon Rebel Digital in the US), it's around 1000 monetary units on both sides of the pond. The lack of noise from the big sensor, excellent viewfinder, focusing and responsiveness beat the latest fixed-lens 8-mpix wonders 4-0.

    --

    --
    If the road to hell is paved with good intentions, where does the road paved with evil intentions lead to?
  18. RTFA! by mx.2000 · · Score: 1, Insightful

    There's barely a mention of Photoshop either. The article is about the cameras.

  19. Previous Stories by Roofus · · Score: 4, Informative

    Since I haven't read them, and I don't see them posted here anywhere, here are the links to the first two stories:

    http://www.thetechlounge.com/article.php?directory =beyond_megapixels_part_1

    http://www.thetechlounge.com/article.php?directory =beyond_megapixels_part_2

    Ah yes, I can feel the Slashdotting coming on now =)

  20. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by afidel · · Score: 2, Informative

    NOT. The Canon EOS D300/Digital Rebel which is compatible with almost all EF series lenses, and has its own line of EF-S lenses can be had for only ~$950 bundled with a great 18-55 EF-S autofocus lense. Of course once you've caught the bug you can easily spend thousands on new lenses but the barrier to entry in the DSLR world has come crashing down with several competitors offering similarly priced models (though AFAIK none of them have as good of a lense on their ~$1K DSLR's)

    --
    There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
  21. The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by fdiskne1 · · Score: 4, Informative

    I am what you would consider a serious amatuer photographer. (Note that's not seriously amatuer.) I like taking nice photos and blowing them up/enlarging the best of them to frame and hang on the wall. I've even had one professional gig where I got paid for taking official photos at a wedding. A few extra bucks for me and some decent photos at a cheap price for the couple.

    Here is my perfect camera:

    1. Six Megapixel. You can print out an 8X10" photo at the same quality as 35mm film. More is better, but does an amatuer really need any more than that?

    2. An SLR. This is a single lens reflex. It focuses the image onto the focusing screens by using the light coming through the lens (what you see through the view-finder is what you get) and has interchangable lenses.

    3. Has a nice optical zoom. How many X makes a nice optical zoom? I suppose that's up to the individual, but I think 10X or more. More is always better when it comes to optical zoom.

    The Canon Digital Rebel seems to be the perfect camera for me. The price is still a bit out there, in the neighborhood of $1000, but I'm sure it will come down as time goes on. I'm thinking we are nearing the end of the major advances in digital cameras. Not that we can't improve them, but they are practically at the quality/price levels of film cameras. You can get a cheapie for less than $100 that takes "okay" 3 megapixel images. Great for 4x6 snapshots. You can also spend about $1000 for everything a non-professional could want. Any improvements beyond this are gravy and probably wouldn't profit the researcher or manufacturer much.

    Oh! And ignore digital zoom. I wish it didn't exist. I can enlarge it on my computer after the fact and get the same effect.

    --
    But why is the rum gone?
    1. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by hankwang · · Score: 1
      Six Megapixel. You can print out an 8X10" photo at the same quality as 35mm film.

      In the past six years, I have ordered a print at that size only twice. And they were pretty blurry (taken with a mid-range compact camera) if you look at them from close by (what I usually don't do with pictures that hang on the wall).

      An expensive camera does not give you good pictures if you don't know how to create a good composition.

      Has a nice optical zoom. [...] I think 10X or more.

      I hardly ever zoom in all the way on my 3x zoom. The light sensitivity drops and camera shake is amplified, which means blurry pictures unless I use a tripod. More expensive lenses may not drop in light sensitivity, but the problem of camera shake is still there. I'm more bothered by the lack of wide-angles on these cameras, which usually are equivalent to f=38 mm instead of the f=28 mm on my film roll camera.

      The biggest plus for me of a 2 MP digital camera is that is small, light, and cheap. I can always carry it without being too worried that it breaks or gets stolen.

    2. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by viknet · · Score: 1

      Sorry to comment on this but where the hell have you seen a 10x zoom for the canon rebel, if you manage to get x7 (with the latest sigma 18-125 at 300) then you are lucky... and for a 10x, yet to see one (if any) of decent price and quality.

      The canon can come in standard with a 28-50 lense wich is a 18-55 (or an x3 zoom), not to mention that you don't have any digital zoom, you cannot shout using the LCD, and does not shout movie and is bulky.

      That is a lot of drawback. And even if I want to buy a digital SLR I can understand why somebody wouldn't go for it

      PS.
      And going partiing with a bag full of 3 different zoom is NOT an option.

      Not to mention the fact that changing the lens mean dust on your CCD and that's bad....

    3. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by Mwongozi · · Score: 1

      Oh! And ignore digital zoom. I wish it didn't exist. I can enlarge it on my computer after the fact and get the same effect.

      Not quite. The photometry of the photo will be based on the entire picture. If you take an un-zoomed picture and then crop it, the photometry will be off. Probably not by much, but it's still off. Digital zoom at least allows the camera to choose the correct settings for the image you have framed.

    4. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by Zog+The+Undeniable · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Don't good LCD viewfinders make SLRs redundant for digital cameras? There really isn't much point in having all that moving-mirror hardware; if you must have a bigger image for focusing, electronic viewfinders are available. I speak as someone who also uses a medium format SLR, by the way.

      --
      When I am king, you will be first against the wall.
    5. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by sql*kitten · · Score: 1

      More is always better when it comes to optical zoom.

      Any lens that has more than 3x optical zoom will be making some heavy compromises to do so. You're up against the laws of physics here, if you want to fit such a lens into a portable package. You really would be much better off carrying several lenses (that's what SLRs are for) or two bodies with a different lens on each.

      Canon makes a 28-300 lens for people who absolutely cannot change lenses in the field (for example, photojournalists in the middle of a rapidly changing situation) but almost all of its top-quality zoom lenses - the L series - are 2x or 3x. Its consumer zooms are mostly 4x or 5x.

    6. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by Bushcat · · Score: 1
      An SLR

      In the digital world, if it's not an optical viewer then the image is being taken from the sensor, so "SLR" is irrelevant: what you see is what you get on all digital viewers -- they're using the imaging sensor.

      10X or more

      You're talking about going out to, say, 350mm. Good luck hand-holding that sucker.

      I note you don't mention anything about dynamic range of different sensors, charge leakage to adjacent cells, white balance limitations, pincushion & barrel distortion and so on. You shouldn't be taking people's wedding photos, they've got just the one chance of getting it right.

    7. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by JamesD_UK · · Score: 1

      You'd need a very high quality electronic viewfinder to match the quality of the image as seen through an SLR. LCDs also drain far more power from your batteries than an optical system. The mirror also serves to help keep dust off the CCD whilst changing lenses, although this could be worked around.

    8. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by AmericanInKiev · · Score: 1

      My coowore picked up that camera for closer to 700

      (since he had lenses for canon - no lens.

      That puts the digital SLR surprising close to the high end consumer stock.

      Very appealling.

      AIK

    9. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by ckaminski · · Score: 1

      Photometry? WTF did you come up with that? ;-)

      Are those the little gnomes in the camera painting the picture to the disk?

    10. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by rgmoore · · Score: 1
      Any lens that has more than 3x optical zoom will be making some heavy compromises to do so.

      The 3x rule is less relevant than it used to be. It's possible to build zooms with higher ranges than that and good optical performance by incorporating one or more aspherical lenses. This drives up the price, since the aspherics are radically more expensive to produce, and it keeps the maximum aperture down, since the lenses would tend to get impossibly heavy otherwise, but distortion is much less of an issue in wide range zooms than it used to be.

      --

      There's no point in questioning authority if you aren't going to listen to the answers.

    11. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by putaro · · Score: 1

      In the digital world, if it's not an optical viewer then the image is being taken from the sensor, so "SLR" is irrelevant: what you see is what you get on all digital viewers -- they're using the imaging sensor.

      That's true and not a problem when everything is still. However if you're either panning the camera around to catch something or the action is fast, how quickly the viewfinder responds become an issue. Also, with an SLR you don't burn any power running the viewfinder.

    12. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by Mwongozi · · Score: 2, Informative
      Photometry

      In this context, it refers to how your camera, in automatic mode, calculates the appropriate shutter speed, aperture, and ISO level.

    13. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by MtViewGuy · · Score: 1

      Unless you need to print really big prints all the time, another good choice is the Canon PowerShot S1 IS.

      Despite the fact it's limited to 3.2 megapixels in resolution (which means you can still print 8" x 10" pretty clearly with a good-quality printer), the PowerShot S1 IS has one thing that many people ignore: a decent lens system. With its true 10x optical zoom, this camera can zoom the lens at very high levels with very little optical distortion caused by the lens.

    14. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by killerc · · Score: 1

      Constantly using the LCD for composition and shooting will suck your batteries dry *very* quickly. My Olympus C4040Z will drain a new set of 4 AA's within a few minutes if I leave the LCD on, so I do most of my composing in the tiny optical viewfinder.

    15. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by darrylo · · Score: 1
      LCDs also drain far more power from your batteries than an optical system.
      I want to emphasize this. I used to be an "all cameras must use AA batteries" bigot before I borrowed a friend's Canon Digital Rebel. I was amazed at the battery life. However, I wasn't using an IS lens or AI servo focus.
      The mirror also serves to help keep dust off the CCD whilst changing lenses, although this could be worked around.
      No. Dust on a DSLR sensor is significant problem, especially with zoom lenses (because, with many zoom lenses, zooming in/out will pump air/dust from the outside into the internal sensor cavity). For cleaning information, see http://www.pbase.com/copperhill/ccd_cleaning.
    16. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by Joe+Decker · · Score: 1

      At least for my work, LCD viewfinders just don't cut it, there's never enough information for precise focusing in situations with narrow depth of field.

    17. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by JamesD_UK · · Score: 1

      I did say help. I don't expect the mirror to stop 100% of all dust but I'm sure it's better than having nothing covering the CCD when you're changing lens.

    18. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by B4RSK · · Score: 1

      I'm thinking we are nearing the end of the major advances in digital cameras.

      Then I'm thinking that you are really, really wrong.

      There are so many limits with film that can be overcome with digital. Already we have seen huge leaps in sensor quality at higher "film speed" settings. Even on my EOS D60, ISO 400 is pretty grainy. The 10D improved that a lot. Now the 1D M2 has moved very high clarity to ISO 800.

      Over time we will see further improvements to this. Eventually you'll be able to shoot at ISO 3200 with no loss of quality compared to ISO 100. Maybe we'll even get to 6400. Why would you want this? How about the ability to stop action in very dim light? How about to gain depth while hand-holding in macro photography?

      Colour accuracy is another area that will improve over time. I think the similar tech to the Foveon sensor will become standard. Instead of having one sensor with a mix of pixels picking up RGB, we'll have layers of 3 sensors in a camera. This will also allow for more pixels without having to make the individual pixel sensors as small as now. Larger pixel sensors = better quality images.

      Battery life will improve. Memory will get faster. Memory will continue to increase in density. LCD viewers will get brighter and larger while using less power. Shutters will get faster. Memory buffers larger. Prices will come down. I could go on and on -- yet I am sure there are dozens of things that I've never thought of that will also appear.

      Major advances in digital cameras are just beginning. The end is nowhere in site.

      --
      Some people are like slinkies--basically useless but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
    19. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by Joe+Decker · · Score: 1
      The 3x rule is less relevant than it used to be. It's possible to build zooms with higher ranges than that and good optical performance by incorporating one or more aspherical lenses.

      While it's certainly true that this mitigates the damage, there's still a signficant quality difference. Just as a single example, omparing the just-released Canon 28-300L with lenses like Canon's older and shorter-range 70-200L/4, there's still a (to me) signficant quality difference that keeps me shooting with more lenses.

      Still, I may be pickier than most, I'm shooting an 11MP SLR, and sell large prints. The differences would be far less signficant on a 8x10 (really 7ishx10), of course.

    20. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by mttlg · · Score: 1

      My Olympus C4040Z will drain a new set of 4 AA's within a few minutes if I leave the LCD on, so I do most of my composing in the tiny optical viewfinder.

      It sounds like either your camera is defective or your batteries are garbage. My Olympus C-5050 can go for at least 2 or 3 hours on a single set of 2200mAh batteries, and my old Casio QV-2000 could last around 2 hours on a set of 1550s, all with the LCD on constantly. Even my Apple QuickTake 200 could get a half an hour or so out of a set of alkalines. Maybe you should try some of these.

    21. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      There is a huge difference between seeing the scene via a mirror reflection from the lens vs a LCD display at 200,000 pixels (most camera LCDs are in the 200K pixel range)

      Just try doing focusing via that LCD once! Or checking if some fine element in the picture is visible or "blurred away" due to focus and depth of field.

      In an SLR I see at basically the resolution of the lens (which is usually above the resolution of the film being used - if not, I need to get a better lens) In a Digital camera with 5,000,000+ pixel sensor, using a 200,000 pixel viewfinder does not even come close.

      The LCD is useful to replay the pictures you got and see setup information on and for basic composition (framing) of a shot. But that is where it ends until the resolution of the display can get up to the resolution of the sensor. (Any more would be useless since the sensor is providing the image to display :-)

    22. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by bradasch · · Score: 1

      You know, I consider myself a serious amateur, and recently spent some time studying the options in the market. If you read the articles and reviews on digital photography sites, you will be tempted (as I was) to buy a DSLR. But then I thought to myself: I have a 5 year-old (or so) Canon 3000N that came with an excellent 28-80 Lens (I guess), and I never bothered to buy additional lenses. Why? Mainly because of the hassle that is carrying them. Before that I used a vintage Minolta SRT-101 and, believe me, carrying 3 lenses around to take pictures (on vacations, for example) is not pleasant.

      So I decided on a Nikon 8700, which is not DSLR, but has great capabilities, is light (500g) and has lots of cool features I use, besides having a great macro performance, which is essential to me.

      No, I don't bothered with the 8 Megapixels too. I seriously considered buying the Nikon 5700 (which is a 5MP camera), but it is now somewhat outdated.

      So, I recommend buying a DSLR only if you have intentions of buying additional lenses. Otherwise, a 8MP prosumer is an excellent choice for the "serious amateur".

    23. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by carlos_benj · · Score: 1

      Not the bigger LCD on the back of the camera, but a smaller version in the viewfinder. The proper term would be Electronic View Finder (EVF) rather than LCD. I'm guessing your camera (I'm not familiar with it) is more of a point and shoot where the view finder is like that of a range finder camera in that it doesn't look through the lens.

      --

      --

      As a matter of fact, I am a lawyer. But I play an actor on TV.

    24. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by WuphonsReach · · Score: 1

      I used an SLR for a long time, and switched to a digital camera with only an LCD back. Originally, I was quite pleased with the digital camera (a mid-grade Sony Mavica CDR-300).

      Frankly, I greatly desire switching back to a digital SLR so I can get back to "looking through the lens", while maintaining the wonderful advantages of shooting digital.

      I find it much more immersive and self-focusing (as in concentration) to shoot with an SLR rather then an LCD back. With the LCD back, I feel like there's a barrier between me and the scene that I'm trying to photograph. It's more difficult to acheive fine-focus in cases where you have to focus by hand, and it's tough to see other flaws in the image that will show up later.

      --
      Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
    25. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by phliar · · Score: 1
      Has a nice optical zoom. How many X makes a nice optical zoom? I suppose that's up to the individual, but I think 10X or more. More is always better when it comes to optical zoom.
      From a usage standpoint, yes, more zoom is better. However the laws of physics being what they are, making the zoom range wider means more compromises, more elements, more aberration, more flare, less contrast. A 10x zoom is pretty bad. It looks like around 3x is the best range, which means you need two lenses to cover that 10x range.

      And in fact, in the Canon line, there's the 24-70 f/2.8L and the 70-200 f/2.8L -- they're excellent lenses, and f/2.8 means they're on the "large and expensive" side. (Well, they are "L" lenses!) Those lenses just over $1000 each, which for a "serious" amateur is doable.

      Digital SLRs are nowhere near as cheap as film ones. The EOS Elan (film) and the EOS 10D (digital) are roughly comparable bodies in features, construction etc. But the Elan is $400, and the 10D is $1500. Plus the 10D has a smaller sensor than the 35mm frame, so that wide 28mm lens gives you the view angle of a 45mm -- just slightly wider than the "normal" 50mm. And it means "bokeh" -- the out-of-focus background -- isn't as nice and soft. (Conversely, you get better apparent depth of field with the smaller sensor.)

      --
      Unlimited growth == Cancer.
    26. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amatuer by HuguesT · · Score: 1

      Absolutely!

      Good luck shooting sports using the LCD viewfinder.

  22. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by kfg · · Score: 1

    Olympus used to make the ideal digital camera for me, the E-100. SLR, with a fixed lens, but in exactly the right range for my intended use (10x optical zoom), and with exactly the right resolution for my intended use, 1.5 megapixels and very fast rapid shot mode.

    I would never be making large, high resolution prints from this camera. I need it strictly for computer display.

    They've stopped making it, I presume not to force the market to higher resolution cameras, but because the market is buying the hype itself so they couldn't profitably sell it.

    Now they offer me a higher resolution camera, with the wrong lens (4x optical zoom) for a higher price.

    About all I can do is pray that when my new camera budget reaches the price of the NOS the NOS still exists.

    KFG

  23. Megapixels & digital zoom by heneganj · · Score: 1

    Remember a 4M-pixel camera with 6x optical zoom and 2x digital zoom is equivalent to a 1M pixel camera with 24x optical zoom. How many 1M cheap/consumer cameras do you know with 24x optical zoom?

    1. Re:Megapixels & digital zoom by bhima · · Score: 1

      Yeah, but digital zoom sucks

      --
      Nothing in the world is more dangerous than sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity.
  24. Re:You know by ttsalo · · Score: 4, Insightful
    Theirs just something about developing your own B and W film. You just can't do that with digital.

    You mean sloshing chemicals around in a closed tank? I didn't find that very interesting :-) Making prints was a different ballgame though. If you want the ultimate B&W print, I don't think you can beat all-chemical process.

    But making color prints was a real pain in the butt. I did prints from color negatives and Ilfochromes from slides, but most of the time I ran out of patience before getting everything just right. Sending the images over the net to a printing service, where they are printed straight onto photographic paper, and sent to me via the post, is so much easier and produces so good results that I don't want to go back to the color chemicals ever again.

    --

    --
    If the road to hell is paved with good intentions, where does the road paved with evil intentions lead to?
  25. Correction by mirko · · Score: 0, Redundant
    Beyond Megapixels - Part I & Part II have both been posted here at Slashdot


    Should have been coded :

    Beyond Megapixels - Part I & Part II have both been posted here at Slashdot


    Because most readers do not keep links to stories that old...
    --
    Trolling using another account since 2005.
  26. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by Skater · · Score: 1

    That's true in film, too: I two some pictures I took at the same time and same place with the same brand, speed, and age of film. One I took with a high quality Minolta SLR and the other with a low quality point and shoot job. The pictures from the Minolta are MUCH clearer. For example, in the pic from the Minolta, you can see the individual blades of grass that aren't visible in the picture from the other camera (the grass is just a green blur).

    I own a Nikon SLR film camera now, but you can bet I won't forget that lesson when I go digital.

    --RJ

  27. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by AmericanInKiev · · Score: 1

    fixed lenses also solve a major problem in digital cameras

    dust collects on the imager.

    Think about it.

    Film is constantly fresh out of the can.

    The CCD on the other hand - just sits there and wahtever parks on its surface stays there and creates obstructions until its cleaned.

    Cleaning risks the entire camera - since imagers are also easy to crack.

    So keeping the chamber sealed with a fixed lens - and attachments to alter range - has an unanticiated benefit.

    AIK

  28. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by Bushcat · · Score: 1

    Nonsense. Nikon D70, Canon Rebel and others are fine bodies, under 1 grand in any currency you care to mention (except lira & yen). If you've got an existing lens collection, adding a digital body is the way to go.

  29. There are no good LCD viewfinders. by Agent+Green · · Score: 4, Insightful

    Firstly, there are no good LCD viewfinders...especially when we're talking about still frame quality of any kind. Secondly, there is no need for an SLR mechanism on a digital LCD viewfinder, since the picture is being fed from the imaging CCD anyways. Cameras such as the Canon D300, 10D or any other digital SLR don't use LCD viewfinders, because that's not what their customers really want or need...and it would defeat the purpose anyway.

    When I was in the camera market, I was going for either the Digital Rebel or the gigantic Sony 8MP thing...and eventually settled on the rebel. (Okay, its was the EF Lens capability that won me over). I find that being able to make image adjustments is a lot easier when I'm looking at exactly what will be photographed, instead of some downsized representation. That, and I take good pictures from anywhere in the ballpark with an additional zoom lens. :) More or less, I can do more serious amateur photography without spending my entire livelihood on film/development/printing, which allows me to take many, many more pictures.

    Granted, this works because I bought my camera to be a camera...not some kind of camcorder...which is one feature most LCD viewfinder cameras offer.

    --
    // Agent Green (Ian / IU7 / KB1JQO)
    // IEEE 802.3: All 10base Are Belong To Us
  30. Yes I RTFA and find it a WOFT . . . by StateOfTheUnion · · Score: 1
    The article glazes over everything and provides less information then a product pamplet . . . unless you don't know anything about digital cameras, haven't seen a digital camera, have never touched a digital camera, never read about a digital camera, and you've been living under a rock, I wouldn't bother reading this article.

    In all seriousness, the really odd bit about this article is that the author doesn't seem to know his audience . . . he writes about the most basic of features at a very high level for the novice (like metering, b&w, & sepia features), but then spends an inordinate amount of time describing camera raw files . . . which would be more appropriate for the more advanced user. Then he goes on do describe digital SLR features which are pro and pro-sumer level cameras. But when the author writes about advanced features, he writes about them in a very condscending way . . . like he is coddling a newbie.

    I would guess that the author wrote the article with the entire audience in mind (from beginner to pro), but because of this, the author has created a mediocre article that is not very useful for anyone. It's like building the perfect automobile for everyone, without regard to the needs of specific end consumers . . . you wind up with a single product that is not very good for anyone.

    Beginners would do better to read tutorials on Cnet etc. and advanced users would find more benefit at sites like luminous landscape

    The author claims that he will write reviews next . . . Based on the quality of this article, I would read these with caution. I'd suggest the reviews at DPReview instead.

    1. Re:Yes I RTFA and find it a WOFT . . . by Tackhead · · Score: 1
      > The article glazes over everything and provides less information then a product pamplet . . . unless you don't know anything about digital cameras, haven't seen a digital camera, have never touched a digital camera, never read about a digital camera, and you've been living under a rock, I wouldn't bother reading this article.

      Amen. From the article:
      "There are two major factors that characterize a good focusing system: speed and accuracy."

      Duh.

      I'd like to know what he means by "accurate". My first (and last) experience with "intelligent" autofocus was with a camera that decided the window frame and wing struts were more "interesting" (whether on auto or "for vast landscapes instead of portraits with blurry backgrounds" mode) than the goddamn majestic glacier I flew two hours to see, to say nothing of some friends on the glacier waving up at me. Gee, thanks!

      /has some nice pictures of wing struts, where you can see every scratch, every speck of dirt, and every bugsplat in perfect detail against a white background with a few globs of red and blue, not that I'm bitter or anything...

  31. Where are the reviews of the interfaces? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    but as you become more and more addicted to digital photography there is a great chance that you'll find yourself wanting more control over the shot.
    I don't want to be addicted to do professional photography.

    That's why the quality of the user interface of a camera is of the same importance to me as the quality of the pictures. I want features to be there when I think of them and I want to find them automatically, just like using a Mac.
  32. You're well out-of-date by ianscot · · Score: 2, Insightful
    Two MP was maybe the standard, what, two years ago? Three hundred for a 2 MP camera today would be extravagantly overpriced unless it was small enough to fit inside your shirt button or something. You can get 2 MP for half that price, $150, from a commodity discount store.

    Three MP, or something like 3.2, is now below $300, more like $250.

    The mid-range models are now at four -- that's the current standard, more-or-less, for solid point-and-shooters.

    Personally I know from experience that if you're going to want to make enlargements, you want something like four at least. Three will be okay, but there's some degradation of the image, especially if you're going up to 8x10. That's not a microscope, it's just a picture for your desk at work. A 2 MP camera is going to be painful at that size.

    --
    "Fundamentalism" isn't about divine morality. It's about human authority.
  33. nitpick by WormholeFiend · · Score: 1

    For the RTFA-ers

    Shouldn't this be:

    TFAR - The F...... Article Readers

  34. The C-3000 doesn't have interchangeable lenses... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

    ...and is nothing like a 'regular film SLR'.

    Who modded this +5 Informative for Christ's sake?

    The guy doesn't know shit!

  35. I'll tell you why by WormholeFiend · · Score: 1

    Even if you are not going to print your digital photos, there is still one reason you might want the highest pixel count:

    zooming in on the details.

    1. Re:I'll tell you why by joebok · · Score: 5, Informative

      Part of the articles intent was to make a distinction between the "quality" of pixels - 8 megapixels on a small sensor (top-end "prosumer") will likely have more noise than 6 megapixels on a larger sensor (digital SLR) so that when you are viewing the images 1-1 the details can still be better with a lower pixel count.

      There is also the matter of the Foveon "X3" chip - it's got only about 3.5 megapixels but each pixel records the red, green, and blue coming to it rather than the traditional sensors that will only record one of the colors (the final image is then an interpolation). The manufacturers say this is equivalent to 11 megapixels, but I don't think it's quite that good - certainly comparable to 6 to 8 however.

  36. Re:The C-3000 doesn't have interchangeable lenses. by YrWrstNtmr · · Score: 1

    Ok, ok.....not 'just like'. However....it does have the ability to add on lenses & filters, and it does have manual controls if you choose, as opposed to auto only.

    No, it is not a 'digital SLR'.

    Happy now?

  37. Re:The C-3000 doesn't have interchangeable lenses. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    >Happy now?

    Well, add on lenses are not the same thing as interchangeable lenses are they.

    I wasn't attacking you, just the mods who decided your post was 'informative' when actualluy it was nothing of the sort. Sorry!

  38. Bitdepth by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'd rather see digital cameras go deeper in bitdepth (as in HDR Images) than resolution from now on really. Maybe one day shutter speed will be left on the cameras only for purposes of motionblur :)

    Here's hoping.

  39. Not sure this is "nearing the end"... by ianscot · · Score: 1

    I'm thinking we are nearing the end of the major advances in digital cameras. Not that we can't improve them, but they are practically at the quality/price levels of film cameras.

    Not so sure. For a long time I was convinced I'd get whichever Canon digital SLR dropped below a grand, to use with my set of old EOS lenses preferably. But you know, there's a huge difference in size from the Sony snappy we've picked up in the meantime and an SLR body. There are limits to what one can do with glass, but I'm going to say we have at least one generation of significant size and weight (and resulting design) change coming for that level of camera. I want my Rebel-level camera, swappable lenses and filters and all, to be easy to carry around too. Take a look at digital camcorders like Canon's Elura or Optura series, or Sony's little uprights. Those aren't pro-grade, no, and really they're almost too small to use well in my hands, but I was sorely tempted by them before I decided on a mid-(still very compact)-sized Sony model with the same basic quality for less. You could carry those anywhere.

    'Cause I'm spoiled, that's why. And right now the price of a Canon Digital Rebel is more than twice what I paid for a film Rebel in maybe 1988, so there's room for that to come down too...

    So far the stills from various camcorders are crap next to inexpensive still cameras. Everyone but the real pros could end up tossing dedicated still cameras in favor of hybrid models, if that improves somewhat.

    The whole "digital hub" model could seriously reshape how we think about cameras too. Makes storage a different sort of issue, if you're tagging off the camera with your laptop all the time. Between that and potential hybrid movie/still models, you'd have to think storage will be an interesting question, anyway. That's just an obvious detail. There've got to be other implications we just haven't come to yet.

    Seems like room for change yet, to me. Some major, some incremental.

    --
    "Fundamentalism" isn't about divine morality. It's about human authority.
  40. That's all? by baxissimo · · Score: 3, Interesting

    I found this series to be a pretty big let down. I guess I was expecting too much, but I was hoping the author would go down the list of where digital doesn't live up to film as a call to action for camera makers and consumers. But no, the series for the most part just talks about existing digital camera features like autofocus and zoom lenses. Oh well.

    I want to see some serious discussion about things like color gamut. The gamut of film (especially slide film) is much better than that of digital cameras. Is anyone working to improve the situation for digicams? There's a interesting looking article at extreme tech that talks about gamuts here.

    Basically current sRGB devices don't cover the full range of colors which the human visual system can percieve (nor does film, but film comes closer than digital). Think of deep violet for instance. You simply can't get those hues on a monitor, and so today's digital cameras just don't record those colors. However, it is likely that some day we will have monitors and hardcopy ouptut devices that perform as well as the human visual system. So ideally the pictures I take today would have the full range of color information, even if they're forced to display only a subset of those colors on current display devices. That way, in the future when "uberdisplays" are available, my pictures from 2000 will still look nice, and not washed out and cheesy like color photographs from the 60's do today.

    If you widen the gamut of CCDs, you'll probably want to add a few bits to each color channel as well -- use 12 bit color instead of 8 bit for instance.

    And as long as you're adding bits, the other thing it seems like digital cameras could possibly offer some day is point-and-click high dynamic range (HDR) images, say in EXR format. Couldn't one build CDD sensors with automatic gain control (ISO) on a per-pixel basis, and then assemble the results into a HDR image? Currently the way to make HDR images is by taking several photos of the same scene and carefully merging them together, but that's pretty cumbersome.

    With HDR images, you have much more flexibility to adjust the exposure and reveal detail in the shadows after taking the image.

    What other cool things could digital cameras offer that would take us beyond simply replacing film cameras?

    1. Re:That's all? by socode · · Score: 1

      > Basically current sRGB devices don't cover the full range
      > of colors which the human visual system can percieve
      > (nor does film, but film comes closer than digital)

      Since there are tetrachromats, anomalyous dichromats etc., it's hard to see how any RGB device could ever cover the full range of colors which human visual system can perceive.

    2. Re:That's all? by baxissimo · · Score: 1

      Since there are tetrachromats, anomalyous dichromats etc., it's hard to see how any RGB device could ever cover the full range of colors which human visual system can perceive.

      I'm not sure what those words mean, but who says the output device has to be RGB? For printers, for instance some newer models use 5 or 6 inks to achieve better gamut than can be reproduced with just the standard 4-ink CMYK.

      And even for RGB monitors, if the chromaticities of the phosphors were wider separated, then you could get better gammut. In the article I linked to you can see a proposal for a scRGB color standard based on 3 chromaticity values that completely contain the human visual range. The downside is you waste bits encoding things humans can't see, but at least you encode everything that can be seen.

      Now it probably isn't physically possible to create phosphors that correspond to the scRGB but that doesn't mean we can't do better than current standard sRGB. The current sRGB system is akin to a digital music format which clips high frequencies at 5KHz because "you don't really need anything above that to make pretty good sounding music". No audiophile would stand for that. They demand that music be recorded beyond the range of human hearing just to make sure all the audible range is captured.

      Thanks to the various folks for mentioning cameras that do allow you to get at better color information. Glad to hear some camera companies are thinking about it. I just wich more people who write about digital photography would discuss such things. Most of them seem to believe that sRGB is the best we can hope for, and there's no reason to look any further or push the companies that make the products to look any further.

      One more comment -- I was looking into the Kodak PhotoCD tech at one point to see how they encoded color. They actually use a special wider gamut encoding scheme so that they can capture the color detail present in the film they scan. I forget what it was exactly, but I believe it's some sort of YIQ type thing where luminance and chrominance is separated so that more bits can be used to encode what people are better at seeing. (They also of course provide plain old JPEG -- or some conversion path to JPEG -- so grandma can look at her pictures easily on the computer). But it's cool that they actually also encode more color info than is in the JPEG for archival purposes.

    3. Re:That's all? by Explo · · Score: 1

      If you widen the gamut of CCDs, you'll probably want to add a few bits to each color channel as well -- use 12 bit color instead of 8 bit for instance.


      Many CCDs on digital cameras (even "prosumer" ones in addition to DSLRs have offered >8 bits per color channel for a few years, although it's generally available only via RAW (or perhaps TIFF as well in some cases?). Of course, on the non-DSLRs the problem is that even with low ISO settings, the noise caused by small photosite size more or less drowns the information in the 'additional' bits.

      --
      Everyone who makes generalizations should be shot.
  41. Re:The C-3000 doesn't have interchangeable lenses. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Um it is nothing differnt than a el-cheapo camera.

    you want a real digital SLR... buy a canon Digital REbel. the only choice.

    funny, canon is the only company making real equipment for pro-sumers... the digital reble and D10 for stills and the XL1s for video... all real cameras compared to the toys the other companies put out.

  42. a 3:2 output by Wolfier · · Score: 1

    Only DSLR's and some Nikons do that.

    I've been shooting digital for a few years, and 4:3 STILL look ugly to me.

    Please, add 3:2 outputs.

    1. Re:a 3:2 output by g0at · · Score: 1

      Actually some Olympus do as well (my gf's C-4000 for example).

      -ben
      (who is currently researching and trying to narrow things down between Canon and Olympus, while simultaneously arguing with myself about budget)

    2. Re:a 3:2 output by bradasch · · Score: 1

      I had a Sony P-92 which had a 3:2 option, and my current Nikon Coolpix 8700 also has a 3:2 option.

  43. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by Basje · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Sigh. Zoomfactor is just as much a non-informative factor as megapixels.

    10x what? 28mm (equiv)? 35mm? 38?

    That's quite a difference. And the wide angle is more important than the zoomfactor anyway, in 9 out of 10 cases.

    --
    the pun is mightier than the sword
  44. Re:You know by Gothmolly · · Score: 2, Interesting

    And then dumping the silver nitrate and the rest of the witches' brew down the sink when you're done? No thanks. I'll keep the rivers around here clean, if its all the same. With digital, you can shoot and shoot, play around with fstop, shutter speed, exposure, everything, without wasting anything except time.

    --
    I want to delete my account but Slashdot doesn't allow it.
  45. Flash Capabilities by BenEnglishAtHome · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Other than a brief mention of "virtual fill flash" from Nikon, I don't see anything in any of these articles about flash capabilities. I don't care about the built-in flash, but having an external, powerful, fully integrated flash unit sitting a foot above my lens, held by a high-quality bracket, is extremely important to me. My Nikon F5 is almost never used without the SB28 flash unit (I tend to shoot people, indoors) and the combination is *SO* much more than the sum of the parts.

    So here's my question and one of my big selection criteria: What non-interchangeable lens digital cameras are available with highly integrated and powerful external flash systems? All the usual requirement of a good lens, etc., also apply. Anybody have any experience/knowledge to share?

    1. Re:Flash Capabilities by BattleTroll · · Score: 1

      The Canon Pro-1 accepts all Canon EX-series Speedlites (220EX, 380EX, 420EX, 550EX). From what I've read, the 550EX supports master/slave flashes and wireless triggering - allowing you to do exactly what you've described.

    2. Re:Flash Capabilities by StateOfTheUnion · · Score: 1

      The Nikon 5XXX series and now the 8XXX series (I think that they are discontinuing the 5XXX in favor of the 8's). I have a coolpix 5000 and I use it with by SB-28 . . . It looks kinda silly (the flash is almost bigger than the camera), but it works. But the SB-28 isn't fully dedicated . . . the latest flash from Nikon (the one replacing the SB-28 should be 100% dedicated to the 8000 series camera.) . . . The also have some smaller digital speedlights available that don't look quite so silly on a little digi-cam.

    3. Re:Flash Capabilities by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The discontinued, but still available Oly C-2100uz can accept the Oly bracket and a great but expensive Oly flash system, or with other cables other flashes may be used with lessened automation.

  46. digitoys by mrm677 · · Score: 1

    Its all child's play compared to 4x5 large-format photography. I think it will be a long time before they are able to manufacture a 4x5" CCD or CMOS sensor economically. If they do, well then it will probably slide into the back of my view camera like sheet film, polaroid holders, and roll-film holders.

    However the right digitoy makes a nice light meter.

    1. Re:digitoys by Dragonfly · · Score: 1

      Making a singe 4x5" CCD may be difficult, but I'd be surprised if no one has experimented with making a camera using several smaller CCDs tiled to create a single large CCD, like a videowall. Still expensive, but possible with today's manufacturing techniques.

      You may also be interested in the 16MP+ digital backs available for the Hasselblad H1.

  47. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by rgmoore · · Score: 1

    Ergonomics and size can be pretty important, too. It's pretty easy to ruin a shot because you pushed the wrong button somehow and got the settings wrong. Even worse, you may fail to take any picture, even a bad one, if you're still fiddling with the controls when the perfect shot happens, or if you left your camera at home because it was too heavy and bulky to bring along.

    --

    There's no point in questioning authority if you aren't going to listen to the answers.

  48. ICC color profiles by Speare · · Score: 4, Interesting
    The huge missing-feature for working with RAW images on Linux is not how to read the files, but how to manage color. ICC profiles are a critical part of the process to go from sensor to screen to printer without major swings in color fidelity.
    • sensor * sensorprofile = calibrated image

      calibrated image * deviceprofile = output

    High-end cameras can attach or apply various sensor profile transforms to the actual sensor data, leaving the pixels in a factory-average sRGB, such as AdobeRGB colorspace. Some can even apply or attach custom tone curves or custom colorspaces if you put the profiles on the memory card.

    I haven't used Sane in a while, but it would also need a sensor profile capability.

    Since the 2.0 release of GIMP, it has been making small steps leading up to support for attaching color profiles, but not actually applying color profiles.

    I've heard that some people on the Xorg team have been considering the full scope of solutions for this problem, but I would rather they just hit the 90% mark with one feature: load an ICC display profile and program a single head on the video card to apply that transform for all X output on that head. Let's not wait for the whole thing (how to profile, how to work multihead, how to manage multiple profiles, etc.) to spring out of the head of Zeus.

    CUPS or some other printing subsystem should be able to take ICC printer profiles also, and prefix printer jobs with those profile transforms where appropriate.

    Then you'll see a LOT of people in the photography world erase their Windows and their Photoshop, and join the marketplace vote against product activation.

    --
    [ .sig file not found ]
  49. Re:You know by mattkime · · Score: 1

    I don't want to go back to the color chemicals ever again.

    When were you doing this? Its been at least 15 years since anyone serious about color work touched chemicals. You feed your prints through a machine that processes the paper for you. With color printing, there's no reason to vary anything in the chemical treatment of the paper unless you enjoy frustration.

    --
    Know what I like about atheists? I've yet to meet one that believes God is on their side.
  50. Needs by ericlp · · Score: 2, Informative

    As mentioned, it is all in what you need it for. Many of today's consumer digital cameras are nothing less than outstanding. If you have had to suffer through the growth of digital cameras like I have ( $20-25,000 ) DCS1 Camera circa 1992 ( 1.5 megapixel approx ) and lousy color and contrast ) All you pukes :) should be thankful today.

    Pros will always need large megapixel cameras. Example: Group shots, even then the industry is still working out bugs. The Kodak DCS n14 ( 13.5 megapixel camera )is awesome for group shots and such high detail / high enlargement things. Problem is that even with firmware patchs to it and its follow on model, heavy noise in the shadow areas makes it unusable for existing-low-light photography. An area that a 6 megapixel Nikon D1x or D100 has no problem in. Also as the high end systems are still very expensive, most pros have a narrow experience based on the few expensive systems they have / use.

    A very excellent example of digital photography I have scene recently is a 100 years of Flight issue by National Geographic, all shot with a Nikon D1x ( 6 megapixel ) in Raw mode. Excellent photos. ( The Kodak 13.5 megapixel camera would have failed that mission because of all of the noise it still produces in the shadow areas.)

    My current work cameras ( I am a USAF photographer ) are the Fuji S2, Nikon D100, Kodak 14n. This systems fit our needs ( industrial photography ). Having used film cameras for ages ( 8x10, 4x5, 120/220, 35mm ), I prefer digital cameras all the time now. Burning in and dodging, croping the digital way is a lot more fun and I find I can concentrate more on taking good photos.

  51. Even cheaper "The other digital SLR" by SuperKendall · · Score: 1

    For less than that consider the Sigma SD9 - they newer model, the SD10, is more expensive but the SD9 is starting to go for cheap on eBay. Right now an SD9 plus a really good lens and professional flash is listed for only $650!

    The disadvantage of the SD9 over the 300D is that the camera does not have as high an ISO support, and the camera does not do in-camera JPG. But it produces great images, just take a look at the SD9 users gallery on pbase. You'll also get more advanced features like mirror lock-up that the 300D only supports through a user created firmware update (not that there's anything wrong with that).

    --
    "There is more worth loving than we have strength to love." - Brian Jay Stanley
  52. Re:The C-3000 doesn't have interchangeable lenses. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    >the digital reble and D10 for stills and the XL1s for video... all real cameras compared to the toys the other companies put out.

    What a load of uninformed crap!

    I suppose the Nikon D70 is a 'pro-sumer' toy, is it?

    BTW Canon's midrange DSLR is the 10D not a 'D10', idiot!

  53. If the sensors were all the same that might work by SuperKendall · · Score: 1

    The problem is that the sensors are not all alike. The Sony F828 has a lot of pixels but also more than just the RGB filters (adds cyan). Normal cameras just have RGB filters. Fuji rotates the sensor a bit and offers sensors with higher dynamic range. The Foveon chip stacks sensors so a 3.4 MP camera has 10 million image sensors, and an image quality somewhere in-between 3.4MP and 10MP as a result.

    In short, relying on just the MP count is not really going to help anymore, especially now that companies are really started to explore different paths for sensor development.

    --
    "There is more worth loving than we have strength to love." - Brian Jay Stanley
  54. Re:You know by ckaminski · · Score: 1

    As if storing your evil chemicals in milk bottles marked "POISON" and taking them down to your local village department of public works for toxic waste disposal and handing the guy the nominal 5 quid cover charge is all that tough... ;-)

  55. Some things addressed,. by SuperKendall · · Score: 1

    First of all, a number of cameras (especially higher end cameras) let you choose the Adobe RGB color space, which while not matching human vision is better than sRGB. Also, since a lot of people are just going to be displaying for the web sRGB may be all they ever need - and since the printer range is stuck around the same area as Adobe RGB I'm not sure what benefit you'd get from a much higher range since no output device could support it.

    As for the higher dynamic range, the Fuji SuperCCD does something like what you describe by having two sets of photosensors to record different levels of intensity. They combine that all into one image, but you can also shoot a RAW file with that camera which then preserves the full set of sensor readings.

    --
    "There is more worth loving than we have strength to love." - Brian Jay Stanley
    1. Re:Some things addressed,. by emorphien · · Score: 1

      The actual benefit from the SuperCCD technology is still questionable. The high range (low sensitivity pixels) are too small and are more prone to noise and other issues, even where the incoming light is plentiful. By creating these separate pixels the larger more sensitive pixel is now smaller than they used to be, resulting in potential (and from what I've see, real) increases in noise in the shadows.

      In the end however, even if SuperCCD worked as advertised, it's only a temporary solution and non actively cooled chips produce better and better response characteristics, they'll approach the latitude of film (or even higher end scanning or single shot backs that are actively cooled) without the need to use pixels of different size.

      --


      Presently here, but not there.
  56. Re:You know by putaro · · Score: 1

    handing the guy the nominal 5 quid cover charge

    So he can pour them down the drain for you? Not having the chemicals to dispose of does seem just a wee bit easier, yes.

  57. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by Molt · · Score: 1

    You won't be able to adapt a generic zoom lens to work on a consumer camera like the s602z, the fact there's that fixed lens already on the front means any extra lenses need to take this into account when considering their optics or the focal length is all wrong.

    If you're thinking of playing with extra lens' beyond the two Fujitsu sell for the s602z series you'd be better looking at something like the Canon EOS-100D (Digital Rebel outside of the UK, I believe) which has been specially designed to accept an entire range of lenses for Canon's SLRs

    --
    404 Not Found: No such file or resource as '.sig'
  58. Man, why did I read that? by emorphien · · Score: 1

    If you're new to the digital world that's not a bad read. It covers the basics, and explains some important issues (color balance, metering, etc). However it doesn't separate some marketing which sways people.

    Constantly people will choose one camera over another based on things like how it segments the metering. While you can read over 1000 locations, there are plenty of instances where that means putting too much emphasis on point sources that deviate considerably from the rest of the image. I've seen situations where that can falter.

    On the flip side the lower end cameras from Canon for example may meter off 21 regions, which effectively ignores those things, however if you're metering a more complex scene it can start to slip. Obviously a little user input can go a long way towards compensating for these failures from both types of systems. More regions however simply does not mean better. It's like the whole Mhz thing, it depends.

    The issue with different sensor layouts is real. Fuji has the rotated array, Foveon is layered, Sony uses the Emerald filter, while most cameras are RGB with some exceptions. However an issue frequently ignored is sensor size. Sure, I can have a 2/3" 8mp sensor that might cost $200 (a la the new 8mp consumer cameras), or I can have an 8mp 1.4x sensor in a 1DMKII which probably costs nearly $2000. Clearly something is different, and it's not that one is CMOS and the other CCD, or that one's more expensive. Sensor size is everything, and if you've got two cameras with the same sensor size and comes in a 4mp and 5mp flavor, the 4mp camera may produce bigger enlargements with better quality simply due to the smoother, lower noise image. More isn't necessarily better, but it's hard to explain that to people.

    Foveon confuses things by layering. They get better color resolution, but because X and Y pixel density is lower, they lose some spatial resolution capabilities in some ways. Overall however it performs well. SuperCCD isn't too different, just rotated.

    --


    Presently here, but not there.
    1. Re:Man, why did I read that? by emorphien · · Score: 1

      Newer cameras are also giving the photographer more choices as far as saturation and tint, as well as the ability to output in sepia and black and white tones. I find the ability to see an image in black and white right after taking the shot a huge plus. Even though I have much greater control over color channels and digital filters for black and white images in Photoshop, my composition is best if I can see it when taking the shot.

      That's just stupid. Why waste shooting time processing the image in the camera. Besides if you shoot B&W, sepia or whatever in camera, you cannot go back and revert to color. It is better to just always shoot in color and do conversions in photoshop, the capabilities are much greater and you have much more control. If you can't compose a B&W image because you can't see it in B&W, that's a user problem, not equipment.

      I would like to see cameras have more features that cater to those of us who still love to shoot in black and white, such as digital color filters available during in camera processing.

      He will find himself with very little support from other photographers for this statement. If anything digital can give more control with minimum work than film would, because you're limited to one kind of film, or the color filter you chose when shooting.

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      Presently here, but not there.
  59. legit uses for digital zoom by seibed · · Score: 1

    just as an FYI:

    I have found digital zoom to be useful in odd lighting situations when I wanted to get the right aperture for a distant object. Think far away monkey in a tree with a bright background, if I click away, I won't see monky, I will see a dark outline of a tree. with the digital zoom it sets the light balance accordingly for the area in question. from there i could either lock the aperture, and zoom back out or just snap away and suffer the inadequacies of digital zoom. I suppose there are other ways to do it, but digi zoom is the quickest for me.

    Also Sonys new cameras have and "intelligent" digitial zoom where it will automatically crop a higher resolution pic down to the lower resolution that you are using (say you are taking a pic a 2 MP, it would automatically zoom in to the 5MP picture it just took and give you that portion of the picture), which may not be perfect, but handy on large trips where capacity becomes and issue.

    Another common misconception I, and many others, had was that you could just take a color pic and converrt it to black and white on my computer. I tested this multiple times in a darker setting and the original black and whites came out tons better than the colors that had been sampled back to black and white. I don't know if this is because the CCD is put in a more 'sensitized' mode of some sort, or if the cameras algorithms for dealing with dark situations is better with black and white, but there was no denying the difference.

  60. What clever function? by airbete · · Score: 1
    What function is this guy talking about?

    Middle of the 3rd page:
    "Nikon's D70 has a clever function that emulates the use of a fill flash when processing the image, without actually using a fill flash. The virtual fill flash adjusts the exposure level of darker parts of the image in order to show more detail that would otherwise be lost in shadow. Although the same effect could be produced through post-shooting manipulation, it's nice to see the effect immediately after capturing the frame."

    He's talking about virtual fill flash in-camera function. But I never found such a function on my D70. Am I missing something or did he have another cam in mind?

    AB.

    1. Re:What clever function? by Daffy_Duck_cb · · Score: 1

      I'm pretty sure he is referring to a function of some software that comes with the D70 that does basically the same thing as Photoshop CS's new Shadow/Hightlight tool does which brightens darker areas without too negatively affecting contrast.

    2. Re:What clever function? by StateOfTheUnion · · Score: 1
      Middle of the 3rd page: "Nikon's D70 has a clever function that emulates the use of a fill flash when processing the image, without actually using a fill flash. The virtual fill flash adjusts the exposure level of darker parts of the image in order to show more detail that would otherwise be lost in shadow. Although the same effect could be produced through post-shooting manipulation, it's nice to see the effect immediately after capturing the frame." I also have a D70 . . . this guy is full of bunk.

      There's no feature in the camera to do this . . . And there's no feature in the software to do this either . . . Perhaps he's talking about general editing features in Nikon Capture 4, but the D70 only comes with a 30 day trial of this software, and the software is camera independent . . . but its not a specific feature . . . I did a search of the Nikon Capture pdf manual for "fill flash" and came up with nothing. I actually have no idea what the author is talking about . . .

      It's quite apparent in the article that the author has little idea what he's talking about and has never handled or used many of the cameras that he mentions. The article looks like a mish-mash of stuff that he found on other websites and cobbled together into a useless chimera of an article that pretends to be informative.

      I would be curious to see what photography credentials "Joe" (the author gives his name as "Joe") actually has. Whatever they are, they certainly don't include using a Nikon D70.

  61. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by KilobyteKnight · · Score: 1

    Digital Photography Review lists two* SLRs for under $1000. Click here and select SLR / under $1000. Select under $2000 and you open your options up to nine*.

    I plan to buy the Canon 300D soon. Though it is a somewhat crippled (with some uncrippling hacks available) version of the 10D, it is still an exceptional value.

    *The HP Photosmart doesn't belong on the list. It's not actually a SLR so I am not including it in my count. Looks like an error in the site's database.

    --
    When will Windows be ready for the desktop?
  62. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by carlos_benj · · Score: 1

    Expect to pay several thousand pounds.

    Dang! I'm going to have to gain some weight. I thought they only cost an arm and a leg which for me is well under a hundred pounds....

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    --

    As a matter of fact, I am a lawyer. But I play an actor on TV.

  63. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by GTRacer · · Score: 1
    Jacksonville BBS Scene? In the 80s-90s

    GTRacer

    --
    Defending IP by destroying access to it? That makes sense, RIAA/MPAA. Go to the corner until you can play nice!
  64. Umm. Vuescan? by JerryKnight · · Score: 1

    I too tried dcraw and among other things (file size?), I never really liked the white balance afterward.

    Vuescan on the other hand, is very well built. It has a linux version and was made for film and flatbed scanners (some of which have little to no linux support otherwise), but it can also scan from CRW files (canon raws). It still has all the flexibility you get with film scanners when you scan from raws (gamma, white balance, etc), and it does ICC profiles, too. You can even calibrate using your IT8 target if you have one.

    Sure it's not free, but I think they deserve $60-$80 for their work.

    --

    Catapultam habeo. Nisi omnem pecuniam tuam mihi dabis, ad tuum caput saxum immane mittam.
  65. Tech-specs means nothing. by missing_boy · · Score: 1

    Photography is 90% composition and 10% tech-specs of your camera! Learn to find something to shoot at before you get all tech-revved.

  66. Everyone's Thinking it... by Anti_Climax · · Score: 1

    But no one has said it.

    What does this mean for Pr0n?

    --
    Even people that believe in pre-destiny look both ways before crossing the street.
    1. Re:Everyone's Thinking it... by RetroGeek · · Score: 1

      What does this mean for Pr0n?

      MEGA -> LARGE

      So in the p0rn industry you want more MEGA.

      Ooohh, yes, baby.....

      --

      - - - - - - - - - - -
      I am a programmer. I am paid to produce syntax not grammar. Deal with it.
  67. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by Digital11 · · Score: 1

    100D? AFAIK, the Digital Rebel's product number is 300D internationally... In the US its known as the Digital Rebel, everywhere else the 300D.

    But yes, you're right, the Rebel would be a MUCH better choice since its compatible with ANY Canon EF lense (so pretty much every modern Canon Lense). Its absolutely the best prosumer camera for the buck right now. For anyone who doesn't believe it, just take a look at some of the pics.

    --
    I am a leaf on the wind. Watch how I soar.
  68. Remember the area math by deuterium · · Score: 1

    I think that a lot of consumers think that there will be a signifigant difference in the rectangular dimensions of an 8MP image versus a 5MP. They don't consider that as the area expands, exponentially more pixels are needed to gain, say, another inch in height and width (i.e. the pixel count increases as the square of the dimensions), so that a 5MP image would represent an image side of 2236.1 pixels, while an 8MP image has 2828.4 pixel sides, a ~26% pixel increase per side from 5MP, where the user was thinking of a straight ratio (60%) increase.

    1. Re:Remember the area math by Mocenigo · · Score: 1
      I think that a lot of consumers think that there will be a signifigant difference in the rectangular dimensions of an 8MP image versus a 5MP. They don't consider that as the area expands, exponentially more pixels are needed to gain, say, another inch in height and width (i.e. the pixel count increases as the square of the dimensions), so that a 5MP image would represent an image side of 2236.1 pixels, while an 8MP image has 2828.4 pixel sides, a ~26% pixel increase per side from 5MP, where the user was thinking of a straight ratio (60%) increase.

      It is a polynomial increase in file size (in particular, quadratic), not an exponential one...

    2. Re:Remember the area math by deuterium · · Score: 1

      Doh! I thought that the area of a square was the very definition of logorithmic (sides increase as the sqrt of the area). So what's the proper descriptor for the falloff in gravitational force with increasing distance? I've probably been saying that wrong for years as well.

  69. Digital Camera "shutter speed" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Is there any standard product labeling system out there that lets you know how fast a digital camera captures a picture? I got a a 3MP camera last christmas for my father and it's worked great, but naturally, the higher the resolution the longer it takes to process the photo. It doesn't bug him, but you do have to keep it in mind when switching between taking pictures of landscapes vs pictures of pets. A low resolution of an action scene comes out with little to no blur while the full 3MP photo is quite blurred.

    Before buying a camera for myself it would be nice to know how fast the camera takes a picture at each of it's different MP levels.

  70. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    ...and I remember seeing an article in pop photo a few years ago where they gave a half dozen professional photographers disposable cameras and let them loose in NYC. The photos they took were absolutely amazing, even though all they had to work with was a camera with a cheap, plastic, fixed focus lens, and no flash. The moral of the story is that the equipment doesn't matter so much as the skill and experience of the person wielding it.

  71. Use Cinepaint instead of Gimp for that. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    Also, as much as I like GIMP, the GIMP can't take full advantage of RAW, as it can only handle 8 bits per color (not 12).

    You should rather use Cinepaint (formerly called Film Gimp) for such images. Cinepaint is based on an early fork of Gimp.

  72. Why zoom? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    uninformed consumers think that larger aperature and bigger zoom = better camera

    I prefer fixed focal length lenses with a really large aperture. They are lighter, smaller and sharper than the zooms. I really care about sharpness and contrast, focusing ease and the ability to take clear pictures in low lighting.

  73. Re:My camera -- Ink Jet Resolution WASTED! by Nom+du+Keyboard · · Score: 1
    Printing on a cheapie inkjet has 300 DPI. Printing on a high-quality but still consumer-level laser printer tops out around 1200 DPI.

    Dpi has NOTHING to do with the color resolution of an inkjet printer, unless you are printing black and white line art. If you feel you need a 1200ppi image to print at the full capacity of your 1200dpi printer, you are:

    1: Sadly mistaken.
    2: Working with huge images unnecessarily.
    3: Probably spent much more on your camera than you needed to do.
    4: Are spending a lot of time watching your computer transmit these huge images to your printer, which is merrily throwing away much of the data sent it.

    A single dot of color, does not a color cell make. If so, you'd have a limited color pallette of black, white, and subtractively created single tone RGB.

    Example: An HP large format printer (say a Design Jet 2000 series) prints at 600dpi. That means it can put down an individual ink dot every 1/600th of an inch. And most of them don't overlap the adjacent one, as some printers claiming insanely high horizontal resolutions do. In order to create a wide spectrum of color, this printer builds a 4x4 color cell of 16 dots. Depending on which colors are placed in this cell in which order (yes, dots can be placed on top of each other, and this ordering is significant), you get a wide variety of results. What this means to the image however is that the maximum resolution of this printer is 150ppi. There are 150 color cells per inch horizontally and vertically. Any resolution higher than that is discarded as the image is downsized in the printer to 150 pels (picture elements) per inch. And the results are gorgeous!

    Example: An Epson 1440dpi printer actually prints about 240 color cells per inch. A higher resolution image will not print any sharper.

    Important thing to remember #1: Dots per Inch figures for inkjet printers are nothing more than advertising hype and garbage.

    Important thing to remember #2: Your eye can't see much more than about 100dpi anyway from more than a few inches away. And most people don't hang the image on their nose to view it.

    Important thing to remember #3: The very hard to find color cells per inch figure is the true printer resolution, and the manufacturers don't make this easy to find because they like to advertise big numbers. People also like to buy big numbers.

    Important thing to remember #4: The only way to get a good printer is to view samples of your work on the various printers you are considering buying, and pick the one that is most pleasing to you. It's a lot like wine -- the kind you drink.

    --
    "It's the height of ridiculousness to say for those 9 lines you get hundreds of millions."
  74. Re:The Camera for a Serious Amateur by demonbug · · Score: 1

    I've got a Tamron 28-300 (effectively (or rather 35mm-equivalent) something like 45-480 I think - 1.6x magnification on the Rebel, right?) for my Digital Rebel. Don't remember what it cost, somewhere around $350 I think. Not too bulky, either, although I certainly don't carry it around all the time. So yeah, getting 10x zoom for the Digital Rebel can be done, and not too incredibly expensively, but it isn't as portable as some other options (but then outside of an Elph or equivalent that is really small, it doesn't make too much difference - If I have to carry a camera bag around, I might as well carry my DSLR).

  75. MEGApixels? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Pan-STARRS (pan-starrs.ifa.hawaii.edu) is building a GIGApixel camera.

  76. Interchangeable Lenses (sorta OT) by angst_ridden_hipster · · Score: 1

    So I have a Nikon D70, which uses all the same lenses as my N80. Excellent!

    But now I'm going travelling, and want a very capable lens. I figure an 14mm-440mm zoom, with a constant 2.0 aperature would be just fine, although I'd prefer a constant f/1.8. Absolutely no less than 0.95 MTF at 10 lines/mm. Oh, and it needs to do 1:1 macro at ranges of about six inches.

    I aked for a lens like this at the local high-end lens manufacturer. They said "no problem!" They wheeled out a small truck to transport it, since it comprised 750lbs of glass.

    So I guess I'm in the market for a different travel lens. (Actually, the Nikkor 28-105/3.5-5 is pretty decent, but I'd love a brighter version).

    --
    Eloi, Eloi, lema sabachtani?
    www.fogbound.net
  77. Most digital camera newbie's problems by Mordaximus · · Score: 1

    From personal observation, cannot be solved with megapixels. 9 out of 10 times, people have their camera on low - mediums quality settings "so they can take more pictures." Of course, they get more pictures that have no prayer of being printed because of compression artifacts, bit it's useless explaining that. To most people, looks good on screen means it will print well.

    My father asked about a digital camera today. He was thinking in the 4-6MP range , mostly because I recently bought a D-Rebel and rave about it. (That's because I love RAW format, and the extra breathing room for tight crops more than anything. It does feel "crippled" compared to my ELAN 7 though.)

    My suggestion to him : Buy a good, comfortable 3MP camera with a GOOD LENSE on it and a flexible feature set and spend the money you saved on a decent amount of storage. Set the camera to it's highest quality setting, and leave it there. A 3 megapixel image will produce a decent 4x6 to 8x10s without a problem, IF you use a proper quality setting.

    Remember folks, you CAN'T go back to take the picture again. Make sure you have the best quality you can the first time around!

  78. SLRs don't provide LCD viewfinders... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Because the SLR mechanism precludes it. That's the whole reason.

    LCD viewfinders keep getting better and better. And they already can give info that an SLR viewfinder cannot, like exposure preview and such.

  79. Re:You know by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I admire your green credentials! Using a digital camera made of wood and recycled paper... not plastic and silicon doped with toxic metals. That can't be recycled.

    It's okay... so long as the toxic gunk is being tipped into a river in a third-world country, you don't have to worry about anything.

    By the way... most photographic chemicals are pretty benign. Your body produces waste that's just as bad, and in far greater quantities.

  80. Re:I've advised several friends on digital camera. by whereiswaldo · · Score: 1

    I've got a Kodak DX4900 and my biggest gripes are the LCD screen is washed out in bright sunlight and the rechargeable battery is almost useless - go with non-rechargeable or you'll only get a few pics before the camera shuts off. Nice camera otherwise, though.

  81. Re:Problem with images by Explo · · Score: 1

    My Canon Powershot G3 can take several hundreds of photos with one charge of the battery with the LCD on, and I don't think the custom battery is *that* much superior to set of "normal" AAs..?

    --
    Everyone who makes generalizations should be shot.