Considering Watercooling Your PC?
An anonymous reader writes "Thinking of taking the plunge into water cooling your PC? These guys have rounded up three systems ranging from cheap and cheerful, to stylish and pricey."
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I once thought peltiers would be great with water cooling but we read on /. the other day that these devices are 5% efficient so that's a no.
Water-cooling has a few kinks like electricity near water and corrosion - at least a few years ago that may be solved no days with Antifreeze but you still are at the mercy of the ambient room temperature. It's finicky enough that you couldn't build a machine with water cooling and leave it in a room for 3 years so that leaves a hole in reliability as I couldn't leave my machines on while going away for two weeks on vacation unless I didn't mind rolling the dice to seeing fire trucks at my home.
Considering Water-cooling Your PC? This was the leader I was until I saw a home made active cooling system. I first saw active cooling systems from http://www.vapochill.com/ (website down?) and have been waiting for someone to take an AC compressor and attach it to a computer case. It seems that were just on the verge of DIYers of achieving satisfactory results in active cooling systems; therefore, I will hang on to old reliable (the passive radiators) until I can muscle up the nerve to go the active cooling route.
OK, so water is cheap, but why not go for materials with better cooling properties (like in a fridge), which would be more efficient?
Something that is non-destructive to PCBs if it leaks would also be a bonus.
"She's furniture with a pulse"
Maybe it's a japanese one...
Super Lucky Best Cheerful Watercooler 100% !@#!@# ^_^
My sig is blank, I typed this by hand.
The major hangup I have about watercooling systems is fault tolerance. How the the whole system handle 1) pump failure, 2) water leak, 3) coolant loss, etc without destroying the PC, or worse, starting a fire.
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Only on /. could a watercooling system be called "stylish."
"Hey baby, check out my new Abercrombie watercooler!"
For those Do-It-Yourselfer's that want to measure the water pressure for PC cooling, take a look at this manometer which, while it doesn't look that dandy, works quite well as the principals of pressure are pretty simple.
Hulk SMASH Celiac Disease
Damn, if I'm going to pipe water through my PC, I want it to be reliable and effective. That's it.
Who the hell cares if it's neon?
skipping the pump and hooking directly into a low-flow water line? This would be the most expensive option (water bill), but eliminates the possibility of pump failure, and isn't reliable on ambient roomj temp (my water is quite cold when it comes out of the faucet, regardless of how hot the house is). Of course, if a hose leaks, a self-contained system would stop dripping when the reservoir was empty, while this would flood the whole house! Anyway, something to think about
That's right, I read at +2 and post at +1. Not even I care what I have to say.
It was fun, i only had one leak (that was my own fault) but it was expensive. These systems are not for real world computing. They are for hobbyists that want something to do. I chose to do mine semi-homebrew style. I fabricated some stuff myself, and bought the other parts.
The only reason i did it was that it was nearly silent. Of course, you can do that with conventional cooling nowadays.
Another interesting fact is that i got out of high performance PCs, and now my only computer is a 12" powerbook.
I saw a color tv floating in a tank of this at a trade show years ago, something about a running color tv floating in liquid is just wrong.
But I'm sure It would be much better than water for many many reason.
"Fluorinert FC-77, a specialty fluid from 3M, to cool the laser tube. It is a colorless, odorless liquid (just like water) and if you get some of it on your fingers, it is harmless, just wash your hands with clean water (according to 3M).
Here is the description from 3M web site:
"Heat Transfer Fluids
The wide liquid range of Fluorinert liquid FC-77 (-110C to 97C) makes it ideal for use in automated test equipment (ATE) and other semiconductor process equipment. Its high dielectric strength means it will not damage electronic equipment or semiconductor wafers, chips or packages in the event of a leak or other failure. In addition, FC-77 liquid is chemically stable, nonflammable and practically non-toxic".
- F1 NEWS
Man the site is already /.'ed .. Maybe they should look into water cooling they're routers to handle the hoard.
(yes I know it's more likey a bandwidth or server issue)
Thinking of taking the plunge into water cooling your PC?
Actually, no, I have zero interest in watercooling. It's expensive, not entirely safe, and marginally better than effective air cooling systems.
Nevertheless, I would like to see the article, but I can't. I'm betting the host where the article is located could use some water cooling right about now.
I have some experience with watercooling. With proper care, it's safe and a quiet way to cool your machine. For those of you who move your computers around though, becareful what materials you use. I built my computer in a warm dorm room which meant that my copper block to plastic piping worked fine. Then I took it home to my freezing basement and water went everywhere. I think the metal shrank while the plastic didn't, and water came out of the connections.
Other than that I never had any problems. I don't use it anymore because it's too heavy to carry around all of the time.
--------
It's OK to be social, just don't tell anyone about it.
Server Error in '/' Application.
W orkerRequest wr) +148
.NET Framework Version:1.1.4322.573; ASP.NET Version:1.1.4322.573
Server Too Busy
Description: An unhandled exception occurred during the execution of the current web request. Please review the stack trace for more information about the error and where it originated in the code.
Exception Details: System.Web.HttpException: Server Too Busy
Source Error:
An unhandled exception was generated during the execution of the current web request. Information regarding the origin and location of the exception can be identified using the exception stack trace below.
Stack Trace:
[HttpException (0x80004005): Server Too Busy]
System.Web.HttpRuntime.RejectRequestInternal(Http
Version Information: Microsoft
the noise of water vaporating when the slashdot effect hits their water cooled servers ...
Seems like no one ever consider using liquid metal coolant instead.
Lq metal like NaK are much more efficient then water. In combination with a MHD pumps, the whole system can be free of moving parts and noiseless.
*sigh*
.. pa-ra-bo-la, pa-ra-bo-la, 2 pi R, 2 pi R, where's your latus rectum, where's your latus rectum, 2 pi R
sounds like too much pr0n!
Damn slashdotted already. Which systems did they compare ? I have a corsair watercooling system and it does a great job with cooling and a breeze to setup too. The only negatives are its price (~200$) and noise. But the noise is not all that bad. Just a sort of humming sound of the fan. But its a bit more silent that all the case fans and cpu fans I used to have.
Their server is certainly not cheerful anymore...perhaps because their stylish water-cooling system could not handle the deluge of Slashdot clicks, leaving behind an electronic trail of tears and thus flushing any attempts to RTFA down the toilet.
Too bad all that cooling doesnt help IIS...
.NET Framework Version:1.1.4322.573; ASP.NET Version:1.1.4322.573
Description: An unhandled exception occurred during the execution of the current web request. Please review the stack trace for more information about the error and where it originated in the code.
Exception Details: System.Web.HttpException: Server Too Busy
Source Error:
An unhandled exception was generated during the execution of the current web request. Information regarding the origin and location of the exception can be identified using the exception stack trace below.
Stack Trace:
[HttpException (0x80004005): Server Too Busy] Version Information: Microsoft
Forget water cooling, someone grab a fire extinguisher... That server's toast.
~D
This sig has been enciphered with a one-time pad. It could say almost anything.
Why do you need a web page to tell you how to "build" a piece of hose?
Oh, I see...they used blue/green dye. I used red on my lpg manometer. Guess I did it wrong.
I decided this weekend to try and quiten my PC by following some other members lead and going down the water cooling road. The fans on my PC were really starting to drive me mad
The first thing that I did was to remove all the fans. The one on the processor and graphics card were no problem but the one in the power unit was a bugger to get out.
The most difficult part was sealing all the ventilitation openings in the PC case with silicon. I also put silicon all around the joints on the PC case. The smell of silicon was dreadful but when my wife complained I told her to be patent as it will be worth it when we have a completely silent PC.
Because I had completely sealed the PC case the only opening near top was the DVD drive. So I opened that and put the small hose I had purchased specially for the job into the DVD drive as far as it would go. With what I can only describe as great excitement and anticipation, I turned on the water. It really is amazing just how long it took before the case was complete full, and boy was it heavy. That didn't really bother me as I didn't intend to be moving the PC anyway.
Read on...
An Indian-American Hindu committed to non-violent thought/speech/action alarmed by the global explosion of radical Islam
A few months ago, i saw this clip which had some folks at Good Morning America showing off a liquid that doesn't get things wet. they had a tank of this stuff and put some (powered) electronics in them (laptop, LCD TV) and they operated just fine underwater. They put a book in this stuff and none of the pages got wet as they pulled it out. Check it out
anyway, it would be cool to find out if you can just put your whole computer in this stuff. cooling problem solved, right?
This sig contains repetition and redundancy.
You would probably be better off..
the heat transfer equation H=h*a*(delta T)
H=heat
h=heat transfer coefficient
a=surface area available for cooling
delta T=diff between temperature of device to be cooled and surrounding cooling fluid
shows that the easiest way to cool something is to reduce the temperature of the fluid that cools it..
If you lower the air temp in your computer case by 10c, the processer temp drops by 10c, assuming the fans all stay at the same speed.
Increasing "a" is limited by fin efficiency (which is what these water cooling systems are trying to get around, but a sealed evaporator/condenser would be smaller and more efficient, there is a metric buttload of patents now on sealed passive boilers/condensers), and as air speed increases, "h" rises less and less in proportion)
If you want more info, look at the free download of the heat transfer textbook I list in my journal.
If you're using water cooling for noise-reduction purposes, okay. But if you literally need it in order to keep your chip cool, there's something very wrong.
We should NOT be encouraging chip makers to continue avoiding power problems. It's environmentally irresponsible.
Last time I tried water cooling my computer, the pipe started leaking, there was a short circuit and I accidentally set my computer on fire, which needless to say was neither cooling nor cool... After that accident I gave up altogether and do you know what I did? Instead of overclocking my CPUs, I started to underclock them. I noticed that in many cases even a 15-20% lower c;ock speed may eliminate the need of having any fan at all, as long as there is a large radiator with good contact and a reasonable air flow in the case. Sacrificing those few percents of megahertzes might sound very "not elite" but guess what? It still can display websites faster than I can read.
Sincerely,
Pan Tarhei Hosé, PhD.
"Homo sum et cogito ergo odi profanum vulgus et libido."
I'm considering to put the cooling aluminum laptop
tray in the freezer overnight so I can get at least
30 min of work in the morining in my damn HP Pavillion ze4042 without the damn thing turning on the cpu fan that makes more
noise than my neighboors leaf-blower.
The laptop cooling trays are worthless.
- these are not the droids you are looking for -
How about computer-heating my pool?
Version Information: Microsoft .NET Framework Version:1.1.4322.573; ASP.NET Version:1.1.4322.573
Yeah, free Ipod! He is innocent!
1. Run a cool bath. 2. Strip, submerge. Make self depreciating Microsoft jokes now. 3. Make sure your hair gets wet. And not just a little! 4. Soap. Come on! 5. Towel off completely. 6. OK, get dressed! Mom made you cinnamon toast!
vicious, untreated political sewage...niche entertainment for the spiritually unattractive...worshipless pap
Go invent something. Go build something. Heck, even go break something while learning about it. Join you local tesla coil or ham radio club and learn something. Contribute a patch to an open-source project. build a watercooling system out of parts from Lowe's. Be proud of that.
Go buy something? Something that's largely non-functional, and unreliable? And bolt it on to your computer? Oh, yeah! You da man!
"Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, it doesn't go away." - Philip K. Dick
This sure is a graceful way to tell people that the server is too busy. On the good side, it is returned very quickly.
W orkerRequest wr) +148
.NET Framework Version:1.1.4322.573; ASP.NET Version:1.1.4322.573
Server Error in '/' Application.
Server Too Busy
Description: An unhandled exception occurred during the execution of the current web request. Please review the stack trace for more information about the error and where it originated in the code.
Exception Details: System.Web.HttpException: Server Too Busy
Source Error:
An unhandled exception was generated during the execution of the current web request. Information regarding the origin and location of the exception can be identified using the exception stack trace below.
Stack Trace:
[HttpException (0x80004005): Server Too Busy]
System.Web.HttpRuntime.RejectRequestInternal(Http
Version Information: Microsoft
Ihope if you use water, you put it in somekind of container. It could ruin your computer. I bought an iBreeze for my iBook (exteranl fans) but I guess I could have just got a hotwoater back (like for the back) and filled it with ice water and put the iBook on top of it. I know of a guy who runs water from his fish tank through his computer.
"With proper care, it's safe and a quiet way to cool your machine."
The thing is, i don't wanna HAVE to be careful. When these things ain't need no proper care nor love nor sissy feelings at all, THEN they will be ready to hit the masses.
I don't have a sig.
Sorry, but the 10% or so you get from over clocking isn't worth it.
"Have you ever thought about just turning off the TV, sitting down with your kids, and hitting them?"
Check it out in this video.
Cray's phase change uses Fluorinert, while the average PC uses Freon.
I went with an XP-90 to air cool my new Athlon 64. The heatpipes arguably make it passive phase change cooling.
To the admin. of /. Have you thought of turning the power of /.'s smoking servers into an additional income source? I mean, you could offer to "Load Test" some outfits new servers for a fee and then just post a link on /. announcing something like: free beer and women who love geeks-click here. If their servers could take that, then they could be assured that their servers could stand up to anything short of a direct hit from nukular WMD's!
Down With Slashdot BETA!!! I've been around the corner and seen the oliphant; you can only abuse me from your perspecti
All those fans to keep everything cool are quite annoying, especially in those quiet movie parts or long work sessions! So why not get rid of them for that reason instead of temperature?
It's finicky enough that you couldn't build a machine with water cooling and leave it in a room for 3 years so that leaves a hole in reliability as I couldn't leave my machines on while going away for two weeks on vacation
Since when is it necesary to leave a pc running that long without being around? If you want that, build a simple server and put it in a closet or another room to keep out the noise.
Water can only cool to the ambient temperature of the room, and not below as some people seem to think - which is why it is no better than air/fan solutions, except for lower noise.
You'd be better off cooling your room with AC, and getting the benefit of cooling yourself, not just your processor!
#include <sig.h>
The EER rating on air conditioners (a common heat pump) tell you the ratio of heat moved to power expended to move it. The units of EER are messed up though, it is BTU/HOUR divided by Watts, multiplied by some factor of 10.
http://www.tomshardware.com/cpu/20041015/index.htm l
I still wouldn't go with watercooling. It's mainly just to make you computer quiet and that HUM reminds me the copmuter is working.
The original points of this were:
it's easier to trace small leaks with neon or florescent dyes in use. Use opaque hose, and bring an actual black light near it, and you have one of the world's best cheap tests for system integrity.
Stock antifreeze is florescent green anyway, and it prevents some kinds of corrosion, so why not use it.
Now the case modders are going for the whole hobby effect, with transparent case windows to show off the glowing water inside, and built in UV sources to heat up that case they are trying to cool down (and even cold cathode lights produce some heat), so they are worrying more about apperance than substance. It's the geek equivalent of oversized exaust extensions on a rice burner. But originally, this was about being reliable and effective.
Who is John Cabal?
The whole tubes and pumps and such water cooling stuff does seem overly complicated.
I wanted to just mount the PC on a fishtank and put the heatsink in with the fish, but I worried about cooking the fish. So, no fish in the tank...
Heatpipes don't seem to be sold in arbitrailly long lengths -- I don't think I could go three feet to the top of the fishtank, then down to the bottom with consumer packages.
Has anyone ever seen someone try bagging the whole computer and immersing the bag? If you vacuum out most of the air is the water to bag to chip (and drive, I suppose) contact good enough to cool the CPU, GPU, Drives, etc.?
What about noise?
Sure you AC will cool the hell out of that PC (see vapochill products) but that's some noisy stuff.
Water cooling on the other hand is silent. Mostly since you can put large fan for the radiator. The largest the fan the slower it can run for the same CFM. All this generally meaning a lot less noise.
All of these systems seem to be based on the idea of bringing the water to the chip; couldn't you run a long peice of metal to the chip and then cool the end of that with water?
I've often looked at water cooled systems online but I live in south louisiana where we have extreme humidity... how big a threat would this humidity pose if I went for a water cooled system?
--- If we knew half the things we shouldn't we'd stop wishing we knew it all
Comment removed based on user account deletion
I had the same concerns alot of people on here seem to have about watercooling. I shelled out around $900 for a Koolance case a little over 3 years ago and popped in a Intel MB w/ P4 1.7. I also have my 6 300GB HDs and GF FX Video card water cooled as well. I have been in the case quite a few times, and even upgraded it to a P4 3Ghz, new Intel MB, and new Vid card. I even had to replace my old socket 423 cooler for a socket 478 cooler and no probs. To this day (3+ years later) I have NEVER had a single problem with my case. No leaks, no overheating, no problems period. Yes, it only cools as much as the ambient temp in the room, but on a really hot day that is only 100degrees F. As I type this I am running at 92f.. during intense gaming (ie. Doom 3) The temp never exceeds 110f on the CPU (which is where the temp probes are). I have never been able to get my heatsink/fan CPUs to cool nearly this good under intense loads. Just thought I would share my personal experience with watercooling.
While most of the poeple using watercooling does so to gain performance (ie overclock) It wasn't why I did it.
:(
You see, my computer is located inside a closet. While being the quietest computer around, I can dry my clothes with that brand new Prescott 2.8E.
I needed a way to remove the heat from that closet, So I drilled holes in the walls and installed the pump / radiator in stair room going to the basement.
I do miss wearing those warm clothes on cold winter days...
Only San Pellegrino will do!
http://www.nyx.net/~smanley/watercool
You can get very good results if you engineer your own system - at least as good, if not better, than the commercial alternatives. To make it safe and reliable, use good quality hoses and fuel injection hose clamps designed not to pinch the line and are very, very secure. The other thing is to use a GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself if disaster does strike. If you use a ups, make sure to insert the GFCI -after- the UPS.
I got rid of it after I upgraded to a athlon, but the noise is getting back to bother me and I'll be installing it on my system again very shortly.
Make sure to mount the radiator externally if you can, that was one problem my installation suffered from.
..don't panic
I ran in to this problem when moving once. Having your liquid system FREEZE. That was unique. Luckily it didn't leak afterwards but since then I've been leary of liquid cooling.
I do security
Introduction
Despite a rather slow and shaky start, the water cooling revolution is well and truly under way. If the falling component prices aren't testament enough to this fact, the sheer number of kits being touted by a plethora of vendors surely is.
Nobody has ever doubted the advantages of water cooling as compared to air. Water is some twenty five times more efficient than air at conducting heat, which makes it an obvious choice for cooling all manner of hot running computer components. Unfortunately it also comes with several disadvantages too.
Perhaps the biggest hurdle water cooling has had to overcome is the natural fear in all of us that comes from pumping a fluid around the insides of an expensive, electrically powered computer. Common sense tells us we just shouldn't be doing it. Then there are the other dissuading factors such as high cost, tricky installation, bulk, weight, reliability and aesthetics - all of which have conspired to make water-cooling a fringe activity enjoyed by the elite and the brave.
However, things are changing. Water cooling is getting cheaper, safer, increasingly compact and more aesthetically pleasing with every passing day. The whole premise of liquid cooling your PC is now more viable than ever before, and with the trend for ever-increasing cooling requirements showing no signs of abating, it might be a case of when rather than if you make the switch to the wet stuff.
To help you make the plunge, we've decided to take a closer look at three different approaches to water-cooling, each theoretically suited to a different level of experience. Whether you're a LAN gamer who demands ease of transportation, an overclocker who needs top-notch performance, or even a case modder who values good looks as highly as good performance, there's something here for everyone.
Before we get stuck in, let's introduce the three kits on test: Asetek's WaterChill KT03A-L30, Eastar's Cool River Deluxe Version, and Koolance's Exos-Al.
--= I have the rest of the article copied if anyone wants me to post the rest =--
No wonder it needs cooling, they obviously forgot how much juice Microsoft IIS + ASP.NET uses.
I also find something suspicious about a domain named 'trustedreviews.com' using Microsoft products...
My PC at home has been watercooled for about a year now. I would definitely say it's more for tinkering than performance. I haven't read the article because it's been slashdotted, but watercooling isn't really anything new. (Consider Sony and Alienware's prebuilt systems with watercooling.) I've had one spill and that was really my fault and all my hardware survived (but it was a good excuse to buy new stuff anyways). Pros: It did allow me to overclock a bit more. It was much quieter. Fun to tinker with. Cons: I have to be paranoid about leaks. I have to check water levels once in awhile. I brought it to a LAN once and it wouldn't boot up because with the pump, it sucked more amperage than they allowed per socket.
*Your ad here*
So why not just use R-718 refrigerant? It works just like water.
now we need to go OSS in diesel cars
I wanted to chime in here. My friend and I put together HIS Zalman Reserator (not mine -- got no extra money for these things) and Antec Aria SFF PC a few weeks ago with tremendous results. The Zalman Reserator retails for $250 at Frys. Most online vendors charge more for it.
It's basically a 2.5' tall heatsink/radiator with a submerged pump. It includes a waterblock for your processor (Intel and AMD) and all the tubing/hardware you need.
You lose the ability to easily bleed the thing, although clamping off hoses and pouring nearly 3 liters of water out the top of a Reserator doesn't really seem all that troublesome to me.
Bottom line -- he dropped his idle temps by 20C and his load temps by a similar amount. This was a few weeks ago when it was slightly warmer here in Georgia. He now idles (running a P4 Prescott) at about 27C. It's pretty amazing.
For more information, see here:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=783557
IronChefMorimoto
Anyway, now I can overclock my P4 from 1.8 to 2.4 with no problem... and anytime I start getting lock-ups, I just throw in a few more ice cubes from the freezer.
Meh.
You (hopefully) brush your teeth with flourine everyday (stannous flouride). There are huge differences between chemical combinations using a certain element, just look at carbon in HCN (hydrogen cyanide) and CO2 (carbon dioxide).
After i did a few calculations and "wonderings" of my own i decided to just build my system around a better heatsink similar to the design of the radiator found in most normal watercooling systems. Most people use watercooling for performance, but there are others who use it for stability and the noise factor. The problem is that the manufacturers will tell you that watercooling is better because:
1.) better cooling
2.) less noise
3.) less vibration
The fan that is currently installed on my copper based heatsink is realatively quiet and i can control it with the rheostat i put on the front of the computer. What most computer "hobbiests" don't realise is that a watercooling system must include a fan that is larger then the fan used on most modern heatsinks.
What watercooling systems do is transfer the heat away from the CPU quickly. However because the water has to cool before being recycled, to the "plastic" resevoir so common in today's designs, it must be pushed through a large metal maze similar to the radiator on most cars. This radiator must be cooled by a fan, and more often then not the radiator is placed outside the case to achieve maximum performance and airflow. So in conclusion if your looking for performance, go straight to vapor cooling (that's real quiet). But if your looking for silence stay away from watercooling.
Most DIY watercooling systems run the water through some kind of radiator or heater core, usually taken from a car. And instead of blowing a fan on the CPU itself, they blow the fan across the radiator to cool the water down in the loop.
*Your ad here*
Asetek WaterChill KT03A-L30
Price £186.83
(Inc. 17.5% VAT)
Manufacturer Asetek
http://www.asetek.dk/
Supplier Chillblast
http://www.chillblast.com
Overall
Perhaps the reason the WaterChill is so popular among enthusiasts is that it's a kit in the loosest sense of the word. In essence what you get is a box that contains all the items you need, apart from the coolant, to configure and build an efficient liquid cooling system much as you'd get if you went out and hand-picked all the components yourself. Fortunately, having the components supplied for you in this fashion doesn't mean you're settling for second best, as everything from the radiator to the cooling blocks are of the very highest quality.
Asetek's WaterChill kit is probably the least suitable candidate of the three for the inexperienced user. Not because it's difficult to assemble, but because of the complexity involved in finding a suitable location for the large radiator and its two 120mm cooling fans. In the vast majority of cases this radiator will need to be mounted externally unless you want to embark on some extensive internal case re-engineering. For the hardcore PC user this is a small price to pay but for those whose needs are a little less extreme this may be a deal breaker. On the plus side, Asetek also supply single radiator kits which are much more manageable but, as you might expect, slightly less efficient.
As for the water blocks, these have been redesigned from earlier units although they still possess their distinctive, very thick, clear Plexiglass lids that have become synonymous with Asetek's blocks.
Unlike their previous single-feed, single-return design, Asetek has taken a different approach with its new Antarctica blocks in that water is fed to them through a single, centrally located feed pipe. The heated water is then fed back out through dual return pipes, one on either side of the block, before a Y-shaped piece combines the flows into a single line again to be fed on to further cooling blocks or returned to the radiator. Asetek's method for increasing internal surface area involves using small channels machined into the back of the base which you'd imagine would be more prone to sludge up than Koolance's spikes when used in poorly maintained systems. However, in practice they'll probably be kept sufficiently clear by the force of water being fed directly through them from the central water feed.
The new blocks are a perfect example of how little coolant needs to be in a block at any given time. There seems to be little room for more than five or 10ml of coolant in the actual block itself, though it's obviously circulating quickly and being replaced at a rapid rate.
The kit we were supplied with came with only a CPU block, although Asetek does offer additional blocks suitable for VGA and chipset cooling too. If clearance with standard lid becomes an issue with the layout of some AMD platform motherboards on the market, there's an additional smaller Plexi lid that can be used instead.
The pump is a relatively huge Hydor L30, which boasts a capacity of around 1200 litres/hour. The suction cup mounting option gives a bit of a clue to its aquarium origins. It also explains the slightly clumsy way the reservoir attaches to it using an almost improvised bracket that clearly had to be designed around the pump. It works though and that's what counts.
The reservoir is a cylindrical affair that's primarily constructed from Plexiglass giving easy visual confirmation of coolant level and condition. The feed and return nozzles are at 90 degrees to each other which somewhat limits its possible mounting locations.
Surprisingly, Asetek states a rating of "at least 200W" which sounds a little conservative when compared to Koolance's claimed 300W capacity for its kit.
--= I have the rest of the article copied if anyone wants me to post the rest =--
except that the main purpose of antifreeze is to lower the freezing temperature of the water in your car so it doesn't rupture the radiator. by itself, antifreeze isn't a very good coolant, which is why you need to mix it 50/50 with water.
water=good coolant/high freezing temp
antifreeze=low freezing temp/bad coolant
The only reason I would consider a water cooled system is to run silent. Does anyone know of an inexpensive solution thats well sealed and completely silent?
As someone who uses watercooling, I thought I'd address some of the comments mentioned here.
"Pump failure means watercooling isn't reliable"
-Fans fail too! If a pump fails in a watercooling system, you'll have more time before system failure than if a fan fails in an air cooling system. Although pumps typically do fail more often than fans, they can last a long time if kept within operating conditions. Also, there will likely be signs that pump failure is imminent.
"Watercooling can only get the processor down to room temp, so it's no better than air cooling!"
-Although watercooling and air cooling have the same theoretical limit, this means nothing in the real world. I'm using a 2.4A Prescott in my system. With the stock cooler (which is actually pretty decent), idle temps are in the mid 30's, load temps mid 40's. Overclocked to 3.2Ghz, idle temps are mid 40's, load temps are in the 50's. At an unstable 3.6Ghz overclock, load temps exceed 60. With watercooling, stock idle temps are in the hig 20's. Load temps are exactly the same! Overclocked to 3.6Ghz, idle temps are low 30's, load temps are high 30's. I think these numbers speak for themselves. By switching to watercooling, my temperatures dropped by as much as 30C!
"Water and electronics don't mix! Leaks scare me!"
-If you take time building your system, leaks should never occur. If you hack together a ghetto system from Lowe's, don't be surprised if you find leaks. I'm using Tygon tubing and stainless steel hose clamps, and I haven't had a single leak problem. The first few days I was cautious, but I now have no reservations about leaving the system unattended.
I'm not saying watercooling is perfect. It is definitely expensive. However, the price delta between crappy performance and high performance is surprisingly small. There's really no reason to spend money on these little compact easy to use systems. The performance is no different than air cooling, and it costs more! But spend a few extra bucks for good parts and you'll see the performance skyrocket.
The trouble with pure water is that it's a very powerful solvent (it even burns when you drink it, not badly, but you still don't want to drink a lot of it...).
It wouldn't remain pure for long, at the expense of everything it came in contact with.
DNA just wants to be free...
Despite the hype on the "enthusiast" sites thermal paste typically has good thermal conductivity compared to other semi liquid meterials.
I've been doing my own water cooling systems for a few years now and have come to the conclusion that if you aren't a complete idiot you'll never have any trouble.
r essed.jpg
Here's my first project:
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1009/index.asp
I finished my second last September and have been using it since. I built the whole case from stainless steel tubing. One side of the case is pressurized for water distribution and the other side is a reservior. Here's a pic:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/zackbass1/IMG_0023comp
The great thing about is that I'm able to run my little 2.4C at over 3.4Ghz (I built it in Sept 2003, so it was a big deal) completely silently. The radiator is large enough that it doesn't need any fans. The only noise that comes from the case is the hard disks spinning.
You gotta find first gear in your giant robot car
... for a good time and not even thinking about going back.
Now, mod me down freely. My karma can't get any worse...
Hehehe, that's really funny! Poor bastard! heheheh
Why not peltier cool the air being drawn into the system.... much in the same way those 12v travel coolers keep things cool.
In actuality, water's a superior refrigerant so long as you're not trying to cool down below freezing and can come up with a compressor with the right volumetric capacity under vacuum. When water boils, it pulls roughly 2700 BTUs out of the surounding environment per liter boiled. At 6 bar, water will readily boil at somewhere around 40deg F, dragging that much heat out of the environment as quickly it can be absorbed by the water under those conditions. The big issue is that it's volumetric rate (how much volume you have to pump out of the low-side of the system...) is roughly double any other possible refrigerants out there. There's currently not that many vacuum pumps that can actually DO this sort of thing and the ones that do are typically rather expensive- so we don't currently use water as a refrigerant.
Now, as to why water's used instead of refrigerants is that it's cheap (An R-134a system would set you back a solid 500 or so, a watercooling rig will set you back only $150-250 and does a better than adequate job (especially if you're looking for normal operation with less noise and less CPU heat...), and it has a heat capacity that makes for a very nice thermal transfer medium. It's why you water cool cars and trucks.
I am not merely a "consumer" or a "taxpayer". I am a Citizen of the State of Texas
Why would you need to water cool that metal, if it could just fan out into a large surface some inches away from the chip? How much cooling surface do we need for current CPUs?
I'm actually wondering why the large metal case of most MIDI towers ain't used as dissipation surface in the first place.
cpghost at Cordula's Web.
This would depend entirely on whether you exceed the heat-pumping capacity of the refrigerator. If you don't exceed the amount being pumped out of the space, it will cool down, the rate being dependent on the rate of thermal transfer above and beyond the heat source's generation of heat.
I've seen active refrigeration systems coupled with water cooling that were based off of mini-fridges (There was one that won a case-mod prize at QuakeCon 2003...). The CPU was cooled down below ambient and he was able to keep Bawls and Cokes cold in the thing.
I am not merely a "consumer" or a "taxpayer". I am a Citizen of the State of Texas
That is what I do. I have the ghetto set up in that I used a (new) dryer exhaust hose that directs air from the window AC unit to the back of the computer. I left the enpansion port covers off and have the end of the dryer hose blowing cool air between my video card and sound card (the cable for each work great in wedging the flexible metal tubing in place). When running, it works well enough in that I can feel cool air even coming out of the power supply exhaust fan.When it is warm enough for the computer to benefit from it, I would have already switched on the unit.
What you're doing when you add anti-freeze to a watercooling rig is trying to offset corrosion effects (it's water after all- it's going to have anodic effects on the waterblocks, radiator, etc..) and to prevent mildew and algae buildup in the thing.
I am not merely a "consumer" or a "taxpayer". I am a Citizen of the State of Texas
I tried this a while back. I took my laptop into the shower with me and turned on the cold water. While it did cool off my lap as well as the laptop I quickly got the blue screen of death.
Apparently Microsoft didn't test their OS very well and it apparently crashes in close proximity to water. I've reported this problem, hopefully we'll see a water proof service pack soon, maybe SP3.
I just have a garden hose running through the window...whenever I think the computer might be getting hot I hose it down. It doesn't seem to complicated or expensive...and nothing says stylish like a garden hose running through your window.
please keep it coming :)
you could take a look at my site
http://www.surfbaud.co.uk/news.php
which details experiments with peltiers and water cooling.
For those who can't be bother it boils down to this.
1/ water cooling is OK if done properly, but all the commercial "home" watercooling products are absolute shite
2/ peltiers work, but add huge heat loads to the system overall, and should never be directly interfaced to silicon.
Hopefully in the next few weeks (having just bought a vacuum pump) I can get around to playing with large scale home made heat pipes and report on those.
HTH etc.
http://slashdot.org/~GuyFawkes/journal
Actually, it's less efficient than H2O, as the thermal conductivity and thermal capacity is considerably worse in anti-freeze. The only reason to use it is in sub-zero chillers.
I think people use anti-freeze for the anti-corrosive (and a lack of understanding of its thermal properties), but there are better solutions for anti-corrosion. I use 15% Hy-perlube in my system - and in my car!
with some water additive for your distilled water, you don't have to worry about corrosion or rusting.
Actually, some systems have two types of metals (copper, aluminum) which can cause galvanic corrosion, so an anti-corrosive is a good thing. Also, there is the bacterial issue, so it's good to have something in there to kill the nasties, lest they take over your PC and use it for evil.
Slashdot "libertarians": Small government for me, big government for those I disagree with. -1, I disagree with you
So you're saying the Brits hack the language worse than the Asians?
heat of fusion of water is ~6.02kJ/mol
one mole of water is ~18g
one joule is ~0.24 calories
specific heat of water is ~1 cal./(g C)
so it would take about 80x as much heat to boil (e.g. from 100l-100v C @ 1atm) water as it would to raise that same amount of water from 98-99 C.
in other words -- yeah, it's possable, but in boiling, the water absorbs a lot more energy than it does in just warming up.
You can buy Fluorinert it in 250cc or 1L bottles here:
http://www.parallax-tech.com/fluorine.htm
I am a viral sig. Please help me spread.
Ok I'm not a hardware techie kind of girl, but if you guys are afraid of leaks why not have the CPU/GPU on top and the water pumping hazard below? Then if you have a leak it will only wet your desk?
Of course this is too easy but... Just use a standard Window AC Unit and put the PC in a box...
Flourinert FC77 costs $450 for a 14 lb can, which is about 1 litre...
(Fluorocarbons are HEAVY)
Go ahead and buy that vapo-chill system.
When i was in the US Navy nuclear power program, heat transfer and fluid flow came up every now and then.
Let me just say this; If your cooling system doesn't have the fluid changing state (liquid to gas, gas to liquid) then don't even TALK about it. Latent Heat of Vaporization is probably the second most important idea ever created (behind Language).
Look, you are reading slashdot, you are a nerd, you want your hacks to be elegant and efficient... so make use of your friend... LHOV.
Thanks.
PS: ERUL, commence 10k operations, align freshwater to #1 RFT, then to #1 PWT forward.
hey I built a water cooling system outta parts from Lowe's and I am proud of it! I bought a 1990 Honda Accord radiator on ebay for $30, lots of different sized tubes from Home Depot for a total of near $50 I think. I spend at least $50 on stupid little hose adapters to fit everything properly, $80 for two 500gph pump from Petsmart (I wanted two for redundancy, but one will work just fine), 2 Zalman cpu waterblocks, 2 Zalman gpu waterblocks, and a $2 jug of pre-mixed radiator coolant from Walmart. The radiator was so big, I didn't need a fan to cool it off! The whole system pumps 1.5 gallons around cooling 2 processors and 2 video cards across 4 computers. Works pretty well... wish I had pictures to back up my comments with though...
. . . came factory installed, you insensitive clod! Even handles two processors. Yet another $200+ feature that never seems to get factored in when people compare platforms.
The fan on my iBook (that only went on twice since XMas 2003) is perfectly adequate.
Who TF wants to carry around a whole fridge anyway???
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product _id=2134418
Stick your PC in it and it will stay Cool, not only that you still have room for your BEER.
I have little to say, but even less to lose by saying it.
You forgot to rinse after you soaped.
I am a watercooler. I built a dual Xeon workstation because I needed to run VMware for studying and playing with stuff for my work. After I built it, the damn thing was so loud I couldn't stand to have it on.
Solution #1: Dynamat. Most of the noise was being caused by the CPU fans being exactly the same, and turning on at the same time, causing sympathetic vibrations through the aluminum case. A little Dynamat here, and a little there, and all the vibrations were gone.
Solution #2: Water cooling. It was still damn loud due to the amount of fans in there. So, I got some copper water blocks, and some tubing from my local Home Depot, and some hose clamps. Combine those with a 12V inline pump at the bottom of the case, and you've got yourself a nice little system. It almost runs as quiet as my PowerBook.
However, if you are to build your own system, be smart about it. Don't use tap water unless you want a leak to destroy your entire box; it's not water that conducts, it's the minerals it carries. Go spend the $1 on a gallon of distilled water - not the kind you buy to drink - reverse osmosis distilled water. Cut that with your standard ethylene glycol anitfreeze about 1:1 and you will have a non-corroding coolant that will work great for years.
BTW - I have a brother that is an auto mechanic that got fired up when he saw what I did, so version 2 will probably feature bent copper tubing that will be soldered from the radiator to the water blocks to the pump. Then I really will have something we'll be proud of, because I can't imagine anyone would go through that process unless they already have all the tools and know-how...
Slashdot still doesnâ(TM)t support Unicode after it was added to the HTML standard in 1997.
4: devotes a much smaller amount of space to heating/cooling system
5: designed for a low duty cycle most of the time (previously stated).
6: better insulated inside, only relevant if you're trying to keep the CPU below ambiant.
A large refridgerator would probably be able to do it. A chest deep freezer would probably work better, and take up less space. Designed to keep stuff colder, so probably has a beefier moter.
I don't read AC A human right
Well I guess the site got slashdot'd:
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Description: An unhandled exception occurred during the execution of the current web request. Please review the stack trace for more information about the error and where it originated in the code.
Exception Details: System.InvalidOperationException: Timeout expired. The timeout period elapsed prior to obtaining a connection from the pool. This may have occurred because all pooled connections were in use and max pool size was reached.
Source Error:
An unhandled exception was generated during the execution of the current web request. Information regarding the origin and location of the exception can be identified using the exception stack trace below.
Stack Trace:
[InvalidOperationException: Timeout expired. The timeout period elapsed prior to obtaining a connection from the pool. This may have occurred because all pooled connections were in use and max pool size was reached.]
System.Data.SqlClient.SqlConnectionPoolManager.Ge
System.Data.SqlClient.SqlConnection.Open() +384
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Version Information: Microsoft
Sure, that's great and all, but it's still not going to be as efficient as a minimalistic ambient temperature watercooling system, and it's all too likely to be a helluva lot nosier... And it's not likely to gain you anything unless you plan to overclock like crazy.
From my perspective, watercooling is great if you want to do a couple things, those being cool your computer a bit better without using more fans (cooling drives, bridges, whatever in the process), or to make a very quiet (nearly silent) computer (using larger fans at lower RPMs, etc)
Real Men (TM) use these
of course you also need this
to run it and this to keep your system from shorting out!
(Make Tim PROUD of you! grunt grunt grunt...) };-)
The U.S. really needs an English to Wisdom dictionary.
Is this the stuff that mouse was submerged in as part of marketing? There was somespeculaton that it could be used by divers for delivering oxygen under very high pressure with mix easier to manage.
If this was the stuff and anyone has / knows of a phot of the submerged mouse paddling around, Id love a copy. Video of moue going in, bubbles, swimming, coming out, draining and going back to breathign air would be wonderful.
I would guess I saw this on TV back in the early / mid 60's.
TNX
UL usually tests complete systems or assemblies, not component parts.
Mea navis aericumbens anguillis abundat
But originally, this was about being reliable and effective.
I seem to remember water cooling was originally about overclocking the hell out of Pentium II's and K6's. Now it's normal people fighting the heat created by today's processors and video cards running at their spec'd speeds. I'd say now they need to be more reliable than ever. If I was to water cool my system, I would want several years (atleast) of reliable service. An overclocker who constantly tweaks his system would be more likely to put up with constant maintance and repairs than I would.
this has been used to cool large systems1 .htm
http://www.c-f-c.com/specgas_products/r1
(of course the E)A might get you
Diplomacy is the art of saying "Nice doggie" until you can find a rock. Will Rogers
Why couldn't you run mineral oil instead of water in an enclosed system. I ran the numbers and it looked like it should be able to pump about 200W using a 2 Gpm pump. Copper block and radiator sufficent to dispose the heat to ambient (assumes a 10C differential in temp). Has anyone ever tried to run mineral oil through a pump intended for water does the increased viscosity shorten the life, or will it handle it alright? Seems like most of the mineral oil set ups I've seen discribed use immersion which seems like considerable overkill. Mineral oil seems like a fine solution until processor power goes considerably higher. The heat transfer class I took was an aweful long time ago so please point out any errors in my back of the envelope calcs.
Degaussing scares the bad magnetism out of the monitor and fills it with good karma.
Remove subscriptions for reading and I may.
Innovatec products are well made, easy to install and work very well. So "all" commercial home WC products are NOT shite.
You might try to review one - I'm sure you'd change your mind.
... which is why I'm building an air-cooling solution.
Step 1: Pick up cheap LAN rack. In my case, enclosed, but any will do.
Step 2: Buy a big fan. Bathroom vent style. Mine is 200CFM, and I slapped a dimmer switch on there to moderate the speed as required. Enclose it in a big wood box to cut down noise, and have the only inlet as a standard 2" pvc tube. An outlet might be a good idea too.
Step 3: Build enclosed cases. Have 1 hole on top, connecting to the 2" tube from the fan. Inlets on the far side of the case. My cases are 3-4U high, thick wood.
Now, we have well-vented cases that cool to room temperature.
The kicker:
Step 4: Connect all your case inlets via flexible tubing to another box on the bottom of the rack, with your choice of cooler... peltier, standard A/C, bar fridge, bucket of ice cubes, whatever. Poof! Room temperature just became 10C.
I live in Alberta, so I'll just run the tube outside... ahhh, refreshing -40C air. That won't hurt the PC, right?
With a mega-size rad on your CPU, you'll never have an overheating problem again, it's quiet, it doesn't matter if one part of the system fails, because standard thermal dynamics will keep things going the right way until it's fixed. It won't leak, short out my PC, get me wet, break if my cat chews it...
So, I say again... BAH! Water!
If I knew the wedgies I gave you back in 6th grade would have resulted in this . . . I might have taken a moments pause.