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Oh, another Trumpkin who thinks Trump is a Jesus like beacon of morality and honesty in a dark swamp of corruption.

No, I consider Trump to be something unpleasant but useful. He's the Drano of politics. Nobody wants a glass of Drano on the dinner table, but if you keep a bottle of it under the sink you can use it flush all kinds of unpleasant shit and scum away.

Seems like that's not much of an issue: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart-40-Watt-Equivalent-B11-Candle-Dimmable-Energy-Star-Clear-Glass-Filament-Vintage-LED-Light-Bulb-Soft-White-3-Pack-FG-03128/303742219

I really want random underpaid drivers to have access to my garage, sure I do.

It would be better to just install a parcel drop box. This is essentially a mailbox that accepts and swallows packages. They can only be removed with a key. Any home that has a mailbox at the street can easily install one of these. There are also models for cluster mailboxes and apartments, though space can be an issue in those cases.

So I take it then you have chosen to remain ignorant.

You might need this for your foot.

Single-house locked mail boxes do exist. Here is one. They basically function just like the classic blue bins that you drop mail at and later the USPS picks up from.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ph...

The big problem with the dimable ones is that, iirc, you also have to replace your dimmer switches. That adds expense even if you know how to replace one yourself (the dimmers were like $20+ last time I looked), let alone if you have to call an electrician.

Probably still worth it in the long run for the energy savings, but it does change the equation.

It's getting hard to find non-LED compatible dimmers these days, but you can buy a cheap LED compatible one for $7:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Le...

> Disclosure: My Citroen burned like a fucking candle

Maybe someone was trying to keep the bugs away and got.confused.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Ou...

Spend four bucks. A wall wart is not at all the same thing as able-bodied folks taking up all the accessible bathroom stalls or parking spaces. If you can afford all your devices, you can afford some breakout cables.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/QV...

You really want to do some preparation since your situation improves considerably with it. Neither a standard wood frame house nor car is going to be much protection if you are in them, and remember the radiation would come from above as well. You want to be in the shelter for 14 days if possible to allow the radiation levels to drop. If possible you want to get at least a meter of soil between you and the radiation - in all directions, including above you. The radiation will be the worst at the beginning and then fall off over time.

If nothing else, you could dig a trench and park the car over it. Ideally the engine would be over you, and you could put sandbags on the floor.

Maybe you want to peruse the following.

General background is here:
Fallout Protection - What to Know and Do about Nuclear Attack
FEMA TR-87 Standards for Fallout Shelters

Plans for Expedient Fallout Shelters
Below Ground Corrugated Steel Culvert Shelter Model

There are, of course, companies that sell shelters.

You might even be able to use something like this for a starter, just put about 3+ feed of earth around / above it.

SafRoom 8 ft. x 8 ft. x 7 ft. Steel Tornado Shelter
8 ft. x 7 ft. 14 Person Underground Tornado Storm Shed

You really want to do some preparation since your situation improves considerably with it. Neither a standard wood frame house nor car is going to be much protection if you are in them, and remember the radiation would come from above as well. You want to be in the shelter for 14 days if possible to allow the radiation levels to drop. If possible you want to get at least a meter of soil between you and the radiation - in all directions, including above you. The radiation will be the worst at the beginning and then fall off over time.

If nothing else, you could dig a trench and park the car over it. Ideally the engine would be over you, and you could put sandbags on the floor.

Maybe you want to peruse the following.

General background is here:
Fallout Protection - What to Know and Do about Nuclear Attack
FEMA TR-87 Standards for Fallout Shelters

Plans for Expedient Fallout Shelters
Below Ground Corrugated Steel Culvert Shelter Model

There are, of course, companies that sell shelters.

You might even be able to use something like this for a starter, just put about 3+ feed of earth around / above it.

SafRoom 8 ft. x 8 ft. x 7 ft. Steel Tornado Shelter
8 ft. x 7 ft. 14 Person Underground Tornado Storm Shed

Number plate recognition can be defeated by this newfangled technology.

Actually, can go to a store and buy the additional square footage you need, as long as you don't live in it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Handy-Home-Products-Majestic-8-ft-x-12-ft-Wood-Storage-Shed-18631-8/202205311

In California you have to buy it at $6 a quart at a home improvement store. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tru...

Yeah, creimer can reach every part of his body with his special reaching tool for obese people with limited mobility.

This one comes in especially handy when he gets a little randy and needs to... let off a little heavy cream.

From their ads:

Creimer writes in to say, "Reaching around my massive gut to pleasure himself used to be such a bother, but now it's as easy as 1-2-3 with my patent-pending Medline 31 inch Reacher! Thanks, Medline!"

This is wrong. The long dipole "rabbit ears" elements are for VHF frequencies and broadcasters still use VHF frequencies for HD TV (at least the higher frequencies.) Antennas with "rabbit ear" elements are available today, and will likely be for a long time; not all broadcasters have abandoned VHF bands and have no reason to do so.

If you don't like how they look, unscrew the wall plate, shove the cable into the wall, and replace the wall plate with a blank one. That's a helluva lot cheaper and less labor-intensive than pulling the cable out.

Unless you are asking for raw cut those will also be .125 planed and .25 inch joiner each side so they will be .75 X 5.5 or .75 X 7.25 (they take a little extra on the stuff 8 and over to square it) and it's maked on the website and in the store if you can find the label.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bui...

As a guy who has a woodshop in his garage and very much enjoys building cabinets and the like on the weekends I can tell you that not only is 2x4 ripped to that dimension then planed .25 on each side and it has been that way for as long as I can remember.

More importantly common size and actual size is right on the home depot website when looking at lumber and if you can find the labels it's also marked in the store.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-i...

They are in fact advertised as 2 inches by 4 inches. Here's some shitty 2x4 from home depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-i...

Notice it is called "2 in. by 4 in.", though also note it is clearly marked as "Actual dimension: 1.5 in. x 3.5 in. x 10 ft.".

I'm really not sure how they managed to miss it.The actual dimensions are clearly marked both on the website and in store.

Elongated bowls don't bang male-parts when you scoot forward a bit. They're seen as a luxury option for this purpose, but only by men, and not necessarily by all men. It's also easier to pee standing up.

Good point on the round toilet fluid dynamics.

The limits of our fluid dynamics technology (and fluid dynamics in general--there's only so much energy in a gallon of water that's not elevated 6 feet above the bowl) remain close to 20 years ago; the general understanding of and ability to manufacture to tolerances required for good fluid dynamics has spread, so cheaper toilets have improved faster than upper-end toilets. Until they start coating them with low-friction ceramics, this will remain true.

There are $50 toilets at Home Depot sometimes, when they're woefully overstocked. Typically, you can get a good (but not top-end) Toto around $200-$250 off Amazon; their MSRP is like $450. You can get the $600-$800 models for like $450. I like the highest-end models because they have smooth sides instead of the ridiculous crevices and pipe designs: a trapezoidal monolyth is a flat surface to wipe down, rather than a bunch of nooks and crannies to dig at with a pick brush for 40 minutes. Being able to not have my toilet covered in dust and yellow film without spending an hour every weekend cleaning it is worth the $450. Meanwhile, your generic toilet does typically cost over $100 if you don't catch some extreme overstock clearance bullshit, so yeah... the $200 thing is actually priced competitively.

So here's a $989 toilet at $600 on Amazon. If you're buying a $1,000 toilet, you should expect that I guess. You can see what I mean about the sides, though. Flat sides like that have become somewhat popular, versus this kind of shit that's impossible to clean. You're getting a vanilla top-down flush if you're not paying a few hundred, though; that Toto "Tornado Flush" has a steep price tag. As I said: I'm willing to pay in the upper end for something that's going to outlast the bathroom itself.

Good points, though.

You don't need that. I can make a plasma a lot easier than that.

Just gonna attack these in order.

1: For the trenched cable, do yourself two favors
* A: Don't just bury the cable bare. Consider dropping a conduit of either suitable PVC or corrosion-resistant metal. Seal all the joins a
* B: While you have things open, take the opportunity to drop SEVERAL runs of cable through this trench/conduit. This way, if a problem develops with one of the pieces of cabling, you've already got spares in place. Also, run a piece of wax-coated string through the conduit too. So if you ever need to perform a COMPLETE swap (future cabling upgrades), you can simply pull a new piece through without having to yank out your existing cable infrastructure first.

2: For network cabling inside, again, recommend running through conduit for ease of replacement (rather than through bare wall). And always run a string and at least one extra run per drop point for the same reasons outlined above.

3: If you're wiring for power from scratch, talk with your electrician about installing a whole-house surge suppressor.

http://techomebuilder.com/emag... (Sorry about the absolute craptastic site design. But the info's still good.)

While you'll STILL want to use a UPS/surge suppressor between the outlet and your equipment, and HHSS can prevent a surge from turning your nice UPS unit into expensive slag and add a layer of protection for your equipment.

4: Now, I don't know where you're at, but I'd recommend insulating the walls, floor and ceiling as well.

5: Yes. Double-up on your 2x4 walls (normally called "sistering"). Also, unless the floor is ALREADY 3/4 inch plywood, you're going to want to add another piece of sheathing at half inch plywood for strength. Also, you can use this opportunity to insulate the floor. Drop down a lattice of half inch strip, and some foil-faced foam board. Then drop the top piece of half inch ply over the top.

If this is a shed, it's probably using 2x4 trusses with cheap tacks or nail-plates. DEFINITELY reinforce these. Sister at LEAST a 2x6 for the bottom stringer of each truss.

Also nail/screw pieces of 2x4 between each truss (to the trusses themselves) to create some additional lateral strength.

Also, this structure needs to be sitting on a concrete slab with proper footings that extend below the frost line (to keep the slab from heaving in the winter).
If this structure is just sitting on raw earth, forget about it all. The added weight will require a slab to keep the structure from settling in. Not to mention issues with rot.

6: When you build the area for your rack, DEFINITELY look at sound-dampening insulation and construction. Also, consider putting in a fan-driven wall/ceiling vent to help evacuate heat from the rack area.

7: If you're going to carpet, use the standard flat-ish office carpeting. For your desk area and the rack area, consider tile. Not the expensive stuff, but something like Linoleum. Pick a decent grade, because you're going to be rolling a chair over it and you don't want to wear through.

8: When they're talking about a stronger door, they're talking about something like an insulated steel security door. So this isn't something you're going to put a padlock on. Buy a quality lock and do all of the following.

1: Replace every one of the default screws used to secure the door, lock and hinges to the structure and replace them with 3 inch steel screws. The short default (usually brass) screws will tear out if someone puts a boot to the door for long enough.

2: Don't just have the company double up the wood for the door frame. That DEFINITELY helps. But wood still breaks. Have them reinforce the door frame on both the lock and hinge sides with some steel sheet metal. Or use a reinforcement kit like:

http

I just want to bend sheet metal.

Why? A better product has been around for decades.

http://www.jm.com/en/building-...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mas...

Literally decades. I'm outing myself here, but just yesterday, we de-Commodore64'd and old duct-board groover machine (it makes the grooves that you see in some of those pictures).

The machine still works, it just doesn't need a C64 to run through size implementations (that part of the machine has been falling apart and mostly inoperable).

Anywho, you can groove with hand tools and get a product that is cheaper than insulated sheet metal (maybe not wrapped sheet metal ... don't know). It's quieter! Generally more energy efficient.

Klingon Hammer: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dea...

Do you have to use a commercial mailbox at all? Maybe you could just build a big box with a door or something, and paint "MAIL" on it.

They do seem to have commercially-available ones too, though they're a bit pricey:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/dVa...

One of these might be good if you can get your neighbors to share the cost and your local postmaster approves it:
http://www.steelmailbox.com/ht...

Looks like no more than about $70 because other wise I will just pound a slotted screw drive into the lock and attach a pair of vice grips to the screw drive and shear the pins in the tumbler. Then again I wouldn't buy a smart lock either.

Untrue. A quick search finds I can go lower than $20 for a simple model. This one is $15, and several other models were under $20.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lux...

I genuinely don't understand why I can't get a power reading from every single light AND socket in the house ... I understand it should cost more to do and it's more complicated but again, 2016!

There is nothing magic about 2016. Yes, I understand, "it's a modern world". But it will cost a lot more to do that, and it will require a lot of smarts to configure this all. How do you manage four things plugged into a power strip? Does each thing report its data, does each socket on the strip report, or do you just monitor the socket in the wall and say that's good enough? How do you tell how much that cable set-top-box is using vs. the TV plugged into the same strip? And then you turn on the lamp plugged into the same strip and ...

So, either you have fine-grained monitoring and a headache managing all the connections and data (which nobody is really going to want to do and nobody is going to want to pay for the ability to not bother doing). Or you monitor at the wall socket level with the headache of managing the data about what is plugged into each one. Or you monitor at the circuit level or house level, which is much easier.

I'm actually kind of glad I'm not well off enough to afford a house, because it would frustrate me to own my own place or build my own place and not be able to easily do that yet.

Oh, you can do it if you want to. You can put these or these all over the place and come up with a wireless mesh data collection network using $3 Arduino Nano knock-offs and a $2 wireless module connected to each. They're all plug-in devices, so you can even do it in the apartment you rent, or in the worst case, your parent's basement (kidding.)

And you are three years late, or one year late, with "it's 2016". Here's one from 2013, and one from 2015.

It will cost more and will be complicated, but yes, it's 2016 and it can be done if you want to do it.

Meh, that stuff is weak. When my sinks clog I use fuming hydrochloric acid.

I'm not kidding.

So what alternatives do you suggest?

Here's one solution...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Economy-Heat-Cool-Manual-Thermostat-CT31A/100400017

A fancier option is...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lux-Digital-Mechanical-Thermostat-with-Light-DMH110-010/204356282

I see no reason to have my thermostat connected to anything other than power and HVAC.

So what alternatives do you suggest?

Here's one solution...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Economy-Heat-Cool-Manual-Thermostat-CT31A/100400017

A fancier option is...http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lux-Digital-Mechanical-Thermostat-with-Light-DMH110-010/204356282

I see no reason to have my thermostat connected to anything other than power and HVAC.

Not really weighing in on the making clothes analogy, but if you wanted a thermostat to control without the cloud. The Vera Lite controller can work independent of the Internet.
http://getvera.com/controllers...

While their site provides conveniences like easier connectivity without port forwarding, the entire setup can be done without any connectivity to their site. Then couple that with Z-Wave devices like this Honeywell Z-Wave Thermostat I looked up (I haven't used it, but have a Trane Z-Wave thermostat and a 2GIG Z-Wave Thermostat):
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hon...

Personally, I've been writing my own node.js based z-wave controller using a Z-Wave USB stick plugged into a Raspberry Pi. But that's only by choice. I ran the Vera Lite for a couple years and it worked fine. Admitted, this is a 2 part solution, but the Vera Lite would be your Z-Wave controller for other devices such as light switches and such. For something you can buy at Lowe's or Home Depot:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_650029...

I guess you could in theory have a power socket that allows USB too.

They do exist.

From The Fine Article;

... ultimately improved the efficiency of the bulb to 6.6% ...

6.6% is 45 lumens per watt.
Pardon me while I yawn.
This tech might lead to something interesting, but so far, not so much.

The commercially available Cree soft white 4-flow A19 bulb is 12% or 82 lumens per watt.

There are LED modules for sale that are over 200 lumens per watt.

In the lab, 303 lumens per watt (44%) has been achieved.

You certainly thought things through, but I think you missed a few things.

While taxing/regulating the primer is certainly one way to achieve such ends, I don't think you are aware that your local Home Depot sells them: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ram...

They are actually a very useful part when driving a nail into concrete.

What's interesting about the idea of taxing ammunition is that it has a fairly small effect on those that are somewhat casual owners, but has a very large effect on those that desire to own large numbers of disparate firearms and lots of ammunition for each weapon.

Why is that a goal?

A person with a single 9mm pistol for self-defense that puts a couple of magazines' ammunition through every month to keep in-practice won't feel it very much, but a person that wants to purchase thousands of rounds of ammunition and dozens of guns would be fairly greatly impacted.

While true, why? More often than not, your average guy who goes on a single or multiple-person killing spree doesn't have a dozen different guns? More so, what's wrong with having a few thousand rounds of ammunition? Sometimes it's fun to go to the range and fire off a few hundred rounds in an afternoon... which often requires one to keep a look out for good prices during the year.

Yeah, .22 casings would make sense. Think of the nailgun used to put a nail in concrete, not your typical wood nailgun.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ram...

I have heard it called 're-mesh'.

Here's one that claims 1460 W, so it's not _too_ far off base (look at the specs page).

I said "That's about 2 secs for an average microwave" meaning 2 secs x 1000 W is 2000 W-secs. I mixed up my units, I know.

Covering over black so that it doesn't show isn't easy. It can take a surprising number of coats to do the job. Sometimes you can strip all of the paint off the wall and start fresh; other times you're better off going with wallpaper. Still, I agree with you that the father deserves an A++ for understanding that it was an accident.

I haven't come across anything that this won't cover:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/KIL...

Not even when the tenants thought it would be cool to paint a hexagram on their bedroom wall in black paint.

If it is frequent but not frequent enough to drive every day there are better options. I traded in my Jeep Grand Cherokee for a Ford Fiesta and the money I am saving in gas actually pays the car note. If you just need a truck for a few days a month you could easily afford the rental fee in gas savings.

That takes care of the first 20%... but what about the cheap AC->DC transformers that sit between your house wiring and your devices? I'd love to be able to switch each outlet I have between 110VAC/15a, 12VDC/3-5a and 9VDC/500Ma-2a, and do away with wall warts altogether.

You already can come close, since these are products. As more and more devices switch to USB power ports, you'll want more and more wall outlets with USB ports and fewer and fewer with AC ports (of the various and sundry flavors in use worldwide).

It's a little depressing to realize that the one thing that will make AC power in the home hang on long after it should be dead and buried is the humble vacuum cleaner.

Use what makes sense for the application. I'd never try to run my *entire* house on DC. But between my modem, router, access point and VOIP box I have 5 separate 120V -> 12V rectifiers. I would love if I could just plug them into a separate 12V plug.

I have a 8 port USB charger to charge all the different things in my house that run on 5V. I've replaced a few outlets in my house with 4-Port USB outlets. I've seen bars and restaurants put them in because people charge things with 5V these days.

I'd say half of my house could run on DC without a problem. AC Generation->AC->DC->Use is still more efficient than AC Generation->AC->DC->AC->DC-> Use. And for people off grid you can get by with DC Generation-> Use

Err - no.

That number on the Digikey page isn't lumens per watt (I've no idea what unit mw/W is supposed to be).

If you look at the datasheet that LED is a max of 139 lumens with a forward voltage drop of 2.9 at 350 mA, or slightly less than 140 lumens per watt (under ideal conditions).

By definition there are 683 lumens per watt of radiant power at a wavelength of 555 nm.

The highest announced efficiency LED to date is "only" 303 lumens per watt - http://cree.com/News-and-Events/Cree-News/Press-Releases/2014/March/300LPW-LED-barrier
303/683 = 0.44 or 44%

The best LED I can actually buy is still under 200 lumens per watt, less than 30%

The 4flow, which is pretty close to the best consumer LED light bulb you can get is only 85 lumens per watt.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cree-60W-Equivalent-Soft-White-2700K-A19-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-with-4Flow-Filament-Design-BA19-08027OMF-12DE26-3U100/205597078

All much better (efficacy) than a CFL or incandescent, but no where near 48%

LED Daylight bulbs for $5.97 ea. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Phi...

Home Depot carries the best little set I've owned:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hus...

I have probably bought half a dozen of them as they are super handy. If you take out the little plastic insert in the handle, you can put all the bits in the handle also.

Erm, so you define efficiency by the percentage of gas that is burned? Or what is your breathing argument supposed to mean?

Consider that an Electric range is going to be wasting a huge amount of the heat anyways. So in that case, for stove, yeah, it's pretty much how efficiently it's burning the gas.

Or, to put it another way, how many kWh does a electric stove use compared to how many kWh equivalents does the NG stove use? Then figure that if the NG is being burned at a power plant to produce the electricity, the power plant is only 50% efficient. So as long as the NG appliance is more than 50% efficient at producing usable heat, it's more efficient than the electric one.

For heat retention, as for a furnace, my standard is indeed heat retained.

Far over 50% of the heat is just wasted through the exhaust, unless you have high efficient heating systems where you might approach 75%-80%, I really doubt americans have that.

For your information, I'm pretty sure it'd be illegal to sell a heating system that's wasting 50% of the heat up the pipe in the USA. You have this picture of Americans being energy wasters, but in my experience while we do have our crappy homes, we're a lot closer to Europeans than most think.

"Might approach 75-80%"? My boiler isn't the best, but when I bought it it was the best in my size range. It's 85%. And I'm about 10% less efficient than the 'best' products because, again, at the time, they simply didn't make a small enough condensing unit that can take the acidic condensation from oil.

And yes, that means that, at least during normal operations, it's pulling 85% of the heat from the burned oil into the water. Any higher and I'd have condensation, which adds some complexity, especially with oil and such due to the acid.

As for water heaters, even the crapiest one I could find has an energy factor of .59, and the energy factor includes standby losses! So if it's almost 60% efficient at delivering BTUs worth of hot water when you include standby and circulation losses, it has to be better at getting the heat into the water in the first place. Wrap it with a insulating blanket and the EF will go up.

So, personal example, 85%. BTW, my boiler also provides my hot water as well as heating my house, so that's my 'overall' efficiency. Crappiest water heater I could quickly find: .59. Best I found: .68 - A larger tank, more insulation, equates to more efficiency.

Erm, so you define efficiency by the percentage of gas that is burned? Or what is your breathing argument supposed to mean?

Consider that an Electric range is going to be wasting a huge amount of the heat anyways. So in that case, for stove, yeah, it's pretty much how efficiently it's burning the gas.

Or, to put it another way, how many kWh does a electric stove use compared to how many kWh equivalents does the NG stove use? Then figure that if the NG is being burned at a power plant to produce the electricity, the power plant is only 50% efficient. So as long as the NG appliance is more than 50% efficient at producing usable heat, it's more efficient than the electric one.

For heat retention, as for a furnace, my standard is indeed heat retained.

Far over 50% of the heat is just wasted through the exhaust, unless you have high efficient heating systems where you might approach 75%-80%, I really doubt americans have that.

For your information, I'm pretty sure it'd be illegal to sell a heating system that's wasting 50% of the heat up the pipe in the USA. You have this picture of Americans being energy wasters, but in my experience while we do have our crappy homes, we're a lot closer to Europeans than most think.

"Might approach 75-80%"? My boiler isn't the best, but when I bought it it was the best in my size range. It's 85%. And I'm about 10% less efficient than the 'best' products because, again, at the time, they simply didn't make a small enough condensing unit that can take the acidic condensation from oil.

And yes, that means that, at least during normal operations, it's pulling 85% of the heat from the burned oil into the water. Any higher and I'd have condensation, which adds some complexity, especially with oil and such due to the acid.

As for water heaters, even the crapiest one I could find has an energy factor of .59, and the energy factor includes standby losses! So if it's almost 60% efficient at delivering BTUs worth of hot water when you include standby and circulation losses, it has to be better at getting the heat into the water in the first place. Wrap it with a insulating blanket and the EF will go up.

So, personal example, 85%. BTW, my boiler also provides my hot water as well as heating my house, so that's my 'overall' efficiency. Crappiest water heater I could quickly find: .59. Best I found: .68 - A larger tank, more insulation, equates to more efficiency.

OR...a titanium dioxide shield on your house, to raise its albedo and counteract your family's carbon footprint:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEH...

This ceiling fan A15 bulb puts out 500lm. Incidentally Home Depot claims 60W equivalence. You'll find that the "standard" lumens for a given wattage of incandescent bulb vary with the style and size of the bulb. 810lm is the output of an A60 incandescent 60W bulb, but other styles give less light, which is immediately obvious when you consider the amount of light absorbed by the relatively bigger lamp base of a smaller bulb, for example. Particularly for ceiling fan bulbs, higher vibration tolerance probably means thicker filaments and lower efficiency as well, so you are probably getting 60W equivalence with that bulb, but A15 60W, not A60 60W. Buying a small LED bulb with the same lumens as the highest output incandescent bulb, regardless of size, will probably get you a significantly brighter light than you were shopping for.

You'll have to be more specific about the reading light, or is this what you're looking for: Sylvania 72677 PAR16 LED 8W 120V dimmable.