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Here in the UK I've never seen an HDTV CRT --- the push for HiDef came after the LCD/Plasma thing. I didn't realise there were such beasts as HiDef CRT TVs! ian

Extended life batteries are available here.

I hope people didn't take you seriously as Sears appears to be sold out right now of that LCD fixer tool. Well there is always http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBV Cookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00938395000&subcat=Ha mmers instead. That one should work better anyways hehe :) - XSS

Sears has the tool you need right here.

For me, a gift is about the only time I would buy clothing online. If it's for me I don't buy online, because you can't quite tell what it will look like or how it will fit. But as a gift, those problems are the same whether buying online or at a store.

HDTVs are less than $500. Get a 27 inch HDTV from Samsung at http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBV Cookie=Yes&vertical=ELEC&pid=05747075000&subcat=Fo r+Him
Sears.

I'm assuming that the through-the-window models won't help you, but one of the portable ones might. To pick one at random, consider this portable A/C unit. The advantage of something like this, as opposed to the window fans that some others have suggested, is that it should come with an exhaust hose that you can channel to either the furnace's exhaust pipes, or to some other appropriate outlet elsewhere in your home. Something like that ought do do exactly what you need here.

It is also interesting to see the most popular web sites. Start by typing www. into google suggest. The top 10 are:

1. www.yahoo.com - Search/Directory
2. www.hotmail.com - Email
3. www.google.com - Search
4. www.ebay.com - Shopping
5. www.msn.com - Portal
6. www.aol.com - Portal
7. www.ebay.co.uk - Shopping
8. www.irs.gov - Government
9. www.mapquest.com - Maps
10. www.amazon.com - Shopping

Typing one more letter shows you the top sites for that letter. Here is the top for each letter:

• a is for www.aol.com - Portal
• b is for www.bbc.co.uk - News
• c is for www.cnn.com - News
• d is for www.dictionary.com - Reference
• e is for www.ebay.com - Shopping
• f is for www.food.gov.uk - Government
• g is for www.google.com - Search
• h is for www.hotmail.com - Email
• i is for www.irs.gov - Government
• j is for www.juno.com - Internet service provider
• k is for www.kbb.com - Consumer information
• l is for www.lyrics.com - Music
• m is for www.msn.com - Portal
• n is for www.nick.com - Kids
• o is for www.orbitz.com - Travel
• p is for www.pogo.com - Games
• q is for www.qvc.com - Shopping
• r is for www.rotten.com - Information
• s is for www.sears.com - Shopping (sorry slashdot)
• t is for www.target.com - Shopping
• u is for www.usps.com - Government
• v is for www.verizon.com - Telephone service
• w is for www.weather.com - Weather
• x is for www.xanga.com - Blogs
• y is for www.yahoo.com - Portal
• z is for www.zappos.com - Shopping

This is some random commentary to make sure that my post has enough characters per line on average to get by the lameness filter. Just a few more words should do it. Then I will be over the limit. Maybe you would like to hear a bit about my projects: Attesoro - A internationalization editor for Java programs. Coinmill - A currency conversion website with many currencies, and features such as abilty to parse English sentences asking for currency conversion. Java Utilities - Utilities for common task in the Java programming language such as parsing CSV files and string manipulation.

most residences do not allow their tenants to cut holes in the screens to snake a tube to drain their trash cans. Also, I second anonymous said "That air conditioner is rated 530 watts. (Click on Product specs) Most places are wired for more than 4.9 amps." specs http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBV Cookie=Yes&vertical=APPL&pid=04274054000&tab=spe#t ablink

Kenmore 5150 BTU Single Room Air Conditioner $89.00 new http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBV Cookie=Yes&vertical=APPL&pid=04274054000&subcat=Si ngle+Room+Units I know students are poor, but really. You can probably pick up something like this at a garage sale for $20.

Here's one, albeit a bit on the heavy side. Oh, and you might have trouble pocketing it. Didn't see a belt clip option either.

There are two well-known, accepted methods for doing this.

The first is the non-destrucive method, which works well if the security of the data is merely important and not absolutely critical, and if the drive is functioning correctly. I think the easiest thing to do is keep a PC around with a Solaris x86 install, hook up the drive(s), run fdisk, and then run format and choose analyze from the menu. The analyze menu has several sub-commands which are destructive and write a series of bit patterns all over the disk. If you run format in multiple terminals (with xterm or screen or whatever), you can do as many disks at once as you desire, and you get a progress update in the form of cylinder numbers as well.

The other method is the destructive method, which is appropriate when the data is very sensitive, or when the drive has failed and you cannot use the software method. The method is very simple. You get a mask to make sure you don't inhale tiny particles, a pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes, a pair of vise grips to hold the disk platter firmly, and a bench grinder to ensure the bits are scrambled. You probably also want a canister vacuum cleaner, and work gloves will keep stuff off your hands but probably will not protect them much at all if you get flesh near the bench grinder. In some cases, it may be best to postpone the destructive method until you have some stress to blow off (provided this doesn't make you act sloppy and careless around the bench grinder). Whether you merely remove the surface or grind the whole platter down to dust is your choice.

There are two well-known, accepted methods for doing this.

The first is the non-destrucive method, which works well if the security of the data is merely important and not absolutely critical, and if the drive is functioning correctly. I think the easiest thing to do is keep a PC around with a Solaris x86 install, hook up the drive(s), run fdisk, and then run format and choose analyze from the menu. The analyze menu has several sub-commands which are destructive and write a series of bit patterns all over the disk. If you run format in multiple terminals (with xterm or screen or whatever), you can do as many disks at once as you desire, and you get a progress update in the form of cylinder numbers as well.

The other method is the destructive method, which is appropriate when the data is very sensitive, or when the drive has failed and you cannot use the software method. The method is very simple. You get a mask to make sure you don't inhale tiny particles, a pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes, a pair of vise grips to hold the disk platter firmly, and a bench grinder to ensure the bits are scrambled. You probably also want a canister vacuum cleaner, and work gloves will keep stuff off your hands but probably will not protect them much at all if you get flesh near the bench grinder. In some cases, it may be best to postpone the destructive method until you have some stress to blow off (provided this doesn't make you act sloppy and careless around the bench grinder). Whether you merely remove the surface or grind the whole platter down to dust is your choice.

There are two well-known, accepted methods for doing this.

The first is the non-destrucive method, which works well if the security of the data is merely important and not absolutely critical, and if the drive is functioning correctly. I think the easiest thing to do is keep a PC around with a Solaris x86 install, hook up the drive(s), run fdisk, and then run format and choose analyze from the menu. The analyze menu has several sub-commands which are destructive and write a series of bit patterns all over the disk. If you run format in multiple terminals (with xterm or screen or whatever), you can do as many disks at once as you desire, and you get a progress update in the form of cylinder numbers as well.

The other method is the destructive method, which is appropriate when the data is very sensitive, or when the drive has failed and you cannot use the software method. The method is very simple. You get a mask to make sure you don't inhale tiny particles, a pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes, a pair of vise grips to hold the disk platter firmly, and a bench grinder to ensure the bits are scrambled. You probably also want a canister vacuum cleaner, and work gloves will keep stuff off your hands but probably will not protect them much at all if you get flesh near the bench grinder. In some cases, it may be best to postpone the destructive method until you have some stress to blow off (provided this doesn't make you act sloppy and careless around the bench grinder). Whether you merely remove the surface or grind the whole platter down to dust is your choice.

There are two well-known, accepted methods for doing this.

The first is the non-destrucive method, which works well if the security of the data is merely important and not absolutely critical, and if the drive is functioning correctly. I think the easiest thing to do is keep a PC around with a Solaris x86 install, hook up the drive(s), run fdisk, and then run format and choose analyze from the menu. The analyze menu has several sub-commands which are destructive and write a series of bit patterns all over the disk. If you run format in multiple terminals (with xterm or screen or whatever), you can do as many disks at once as you desire, and you get a progress update in the form of cylinder numbers as well.

The other method is the destructive method, which is appropriate when the data is very sensitive, or when the drive has failed and you cannot use the software method. The method is very simple. You get a mask to make sure you don't inhale tiny particles, a pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes, a pair of vise grips to hold the disk platter firmly, and a bench grinder to ensure the bits are scrambled. You probably also want a canister vacuum cleaner, and work gloves will keep stuff off your hands but probably will not protect them much at all if you get flesh near the bench grinder. In some cases, it may be best to postpone the destructive method until you have some stress to blow off (provided this doesn't make you act sloppy and careless around the bench grinder). Whether you merely remove the surface or grind the whole platter down to dust is your choice.

Best Buy's service plans are a joke. We bought and installed an over-the-range GE microwave from Best Buy. The receipt and service plan specifically stated "in-home service". However, on both occassions where the microwave required servicing, they flatly refused to honor the "in-home" portion of the clause. On the first occassion, they told us to bring it to the store--not the store we got it from but a store 15 miles further away. They kept it for a week, never called us, and we returned to pick it up, found the box was tagged 5 days previous with "no service". It took 2 more days and many phone calls to find where we should take it for service plan work. When I demanded a refund, all they would refund was the service plan. They would not take return on the microwave, which I would never have purchased without a service plan.

My experiencs with Sears and Circuit City have been completely different and wholy satisfactory. Circuit City's replacement warrenty is Number One in my books: Even when my son's minidisc player was two years old and completely out of date, they gave us a full refund without question, which more than covered a new and greatly improved player.

Maybe a friendlier salesperson at Sears could help you.

I mean, what we are trying to run is ad-blocking software, so we are taking it upon ourselves to re-author copyrighted information ( i.e. a web page content ) on the fly.

So, to me, they have the same right to try to force me to see the ad as I have to try to not see it. The ultimate decision is : do I even look at that web page or not.

I think this whole condrundrum is just like the RIAA's condrundrum. Yeh, you can pull lawyers into the fray and spend lots of money, but I do not think that will alter much of anything in the outcome. People will do mostly what they want, technology permitting. There will always be the cat and mouse game.

I am noting some sites fighting back against pop-up blockers by making content as well as ads as a popup. And hosting the ad on their server in the same directories as the content so you can't rely on your cached list of ad-servers to cull it out for you. Frustrating, as you really can not really identify until you have personally inspected the content if you wanted it or not.

I normally run java off because of all the annoyances ( and crashes ) I get as webmasters find sneaky javascript tricks to slip onto their pages. Although these tricks may work for some browsers, they may have quite different results on others. Especially older ones such as mine. From reading this article mentioned, a lot of people are running some sort of blockers, so it behooves the commercial business webmasters to steer clear of things on their site that mimic or use extended techniques.

The most recent example I have is I was looking for some data on washing machines. I visited www.sears.com to see the latest in Kenmores. Hmmm. blank page. I wasn't in the mood for examining source code and fishing the addresses from it, so I just visited Google. I ended up with lots of alternate sources that worked. I note that a lot of large businesses use weird stuff on their pages which trips up my system. But not all. Wal-Mart so far has had very clean pages that don't send me funny stuff that trips me up. I flat do not know why commercial webmasters slip funny proprietary stuff in that trips up peoples stuff. Its kinda like having a parking lot full of dog shit.

And while I am on this, why do commercial sites use proprietary stuff like .ra audio files or .rm video, when just about everything out there happily plays .mp3 or .mpg formats?

Sears carries one for $600... And thouugh you'll need a tad more square footage to put it, it's ripe for some great extreme case mods.

Perhaps this is relevent because Sears is based in Chicago, IL and Ford Motors is based in Dearborn, MI. So it would be significant if these companies were fully adhearing to laws that they may not be subject to at all of their various locations.

Good point. I guess what is needed then is for these claims by the industry and the validity of the DMCA to be tried in the courts.

Sears doesn't have to stop selling wrenches when someone bashes someones head with a craftsman wrench so what is so different about the digital age where people can get presumed guilty and shut down on the basis of one party's complaint without any judge or jury?

DVD+R/W has some big supporters behind it, although the discs are about twice the costs of -R/W discs. If you're curious if it will work in your player, you might check out the Compatibility List at dvdrhelp.com. It's also a good place to find out which player to buy.

My votes go to the Koss KD305 available for $49.99 at Sears (plus option $7 service plan, unlike $30 at Best Buy) or the Norcent DP300 which is $39.99 at Amazon ($49.99 at Walmart). Both play darn near anything you can throw at them, and they're CHEAP!

I own the Koss 305 and simply love it.

Instead of buying a single Kenmore 15,100 BTU Room Air Conditioner for $US380 (39.7 BTUs per dollar) why not buy three Kenmore 5,250 BTU Room Air Conditioners for US$99 each (53.0 BTUs per dollar)? Install each of the three units in different sections of the house or appartment. Some of the benifits of this solution are as follows:

-> More uniform distribtion of power leads to greater effiency
-> Slightly lower equipment cost
-> Multipule "zones" (at night, or whenever you sleep only one "zone" needs to be cooled)
-> Smaller units are usually quieter leading to a quieter "zone"
-> A few more BTUs total
Just a thought.

--adam


"Go back to bed America... your government is in control." --Bill Hicks

Instead of buying a single Kenmore 15,100 BTU Room Air Conditioner for $US380 (39.7 BTUs per dollar) why not buy three Kenmore 5,250 BTU Room Air Conditioners for US$99 each (53.0 BTUs per dollar)? Install each of the three units in different sections of the house or appartment. Some of the benifits of this solution are as follows:

-> More uniform distribtion of power leads to greater effiency
-> Slightly lower equipment cost
-> Multipule "zones" (at night, or whenever you sleep only one "zone" needs to be cooled)
-> Smaller units are usually quieter leading to a quieter "zone"
-> A few more BTUs total
Just a thought.

--adam


"Go back to bed America... your government is in control." --Bill Hicks

We're purchasing the Kenmore 15,100 BTU Room Air Conditioner for $380. This is why I like it:

* Highest BTU A/C that runs on 115 volts
* Isn't a no-name brand
* Is cheap.

I researched a *lot* of a/c's and that's what I came up with.

(If anyone else has found a better one, let me know!)

If you don't have a lefthand drill bit (most people don't), go to your local sears and buy a screw-out set. They go in your drill or 1/4" hex screwdriver - you put your drill (or hand) in reverse, push on the stripped screw, and the screw comes out. There is *nothing* in a computer case that's stronger than one of those screw extractors, so you should be fine. :)

Actually, I'd advise getting the 10-piece set, but since the 3-piece set is only $20, you should be set. The drill-out things are easier to use, but either one will be easier than drilling a hole in the center of a little machine screw and then getting a screw extractor in that hole.

If you don't have a lefthand drill bit (most people don't), go to your local sears and buy a screw-out set. They go in your drill or 1/4" hex screwdriver - you put your drill (or hand) in reverse, push on the stripped screw, and the screw comes out. There is *nothing* in a computer case that's stronger than one of those screw extractors, so you should be fine. :)

Actually, I'd advise getting the 10-piece set, but since the 3-piece set is only $20, you should be set. The drill-out things are easier to use, but either one will be easier than drilling a hole in the center of a little machine screw and then getting a screw extractor in that hole.

Yes, I leave it on all the time. I used to use an air cleaner much like this one. With it on, it sounded something like a box fan set at a medium speed.
It used about 200watts of electricity, and I ended up changing the filter every month or so, at a cost of 30-45$ to me. It worked great, but it was somewhat expensive in the maint. department.

I kept seeing ads on TV about the SharperImage Ionic Breeze. I get their catalog, and in one was a testimonial from a user who had one running when the attack on the World Trade Center happened.
He said that when he came back, he had the EPA guys come in and check the air in his apartment (about a block from the WTC) and it was a lot cleaner then the surrounding air in the city, almost pure!
So I said, hell, I'll give it a shot and plunked down the 350$ for it - and love it.
It cleans just as well as my old one (maybe even better) and instead of a filter to change and a prefilter to wash every month or so, I simple pull out a 'collection grate' and wipe it off. Wait for it to dry, plug it back in, and I'm good to go - 5 minutes or so, and at the cost of around 0.05 cents in water. Plus, it only uses 15watts of power and is silent. SO I keep the big one in the living room on low and leave the ionic breeze in the office.

As for dust, I've had very little accumalation now. Used to need to clean the TV every month or so with a pretty thick layer of dust; now I can wait 6 months and there isn't much dust at all on anything, so I would safely assume it cuts down on that as well hehe.

I smoke. My wife USED to smoke, and we have a plethora of cats.

Several PCs in the house, and you can imagine the ickyness that gets in there.

Tried fan filters, there fine and well for a single PC, or a couple, but at times I've had a half dozen + machines running in here, and cleaning all those filters is almost as bad as blowing out the case without filters.

I went out and bought a high quality HEPA Air Cleaner and haven't had a problem since. My bitchbox, a lowly celeron 366 which I use to test new cards and such I build has been running for 6 months straight with the cover on. I just opened it up, very little dust inside - not even enough to worry about.

I use a cleaner similar to the link up there, it's made for multi-room use, so I calculated it cleans the air in my 15x15 office about 38 times an hour. I breathe better, the air just smells cleaner, and I have 1 filter to worry about, not 2 dozen.

Actually, a lot of toasters nowadays ARE electronic.

Just as an example, take a look at http://www.sears.com under housewares -> small kitchen appliances -> toasters.

Even if they don't have "digital" or "electronic" in the name, if you dig into the specifications, at least half of them have electronic controls, maybe more.

If TCP became a problem, I'd be happy to sell them a raft of these to take care of all their problems...

I don't care either way but if e-commerce transactions are going to be taxed then it should be more consistant - not just willy nilly taxation when a company feels like it.

In woodworking a router is a device that is used to cut a channel or groove out of a solid block of wood. You can see some from Craftsman here, they are generally held with the cutting blade down, the cutting blade is in the center of the bottom of the device, and dragged around along your desired line or edge. Its use very similar to the triming of a large whole with a dremel, but designed to leave a better line than I can do with a dremel, there are hundreds of bits to leave various edges.

Here you go right here


Here's another one

Here you go right here


Here's another one

That's all well and good for people/companies with high-speed connections. The problem is that, just like with Flash and other bandwidth-hogging technologies, this has the potential to be used for Evil as well as Good.

Sears.com has an online parts ordering system that's pretty slick. It incorporates Java to bring up schematics for power tools and such. Cool idea, but it sucks at dial-up speeds. I needed a rebuild kit for my lawnmower last year. I was able to order it, but I cursed them the whole way because they didn't give me an alternative to their slow-as-molasses way of doing things on their web site.

Now, will bandwidth eventually catch up? Most likely so but, in the meantime, this has the potential to negatively impact the web experience for many.

I didn't know that DirecTV leased hardware. I was under the impression that subscribers bought their hardware, and then subscribed to the service to make their hardware useful. I know our Sony receiver came from Best Buy (not that I'll go back there... Ick), and was bought. My in-laws' receiver was bought.

I'm pretty sure Dish Network works the same way, since their hardware is available at Sears and Radio Shack.

This is just an example, of course, but perhaps sears (and the like) should think about _why_ people would come to their website. All the fluff in the world won't mean anything if I as a consumer don't find what I am looking for.

Let's see, you can but dishwashers and clothes washers at lots of places, including Sears . To jack off, go to any "adult entertainment" store or website . ;-)

Amazingly enough, there are now robots that wash dishes and do the laundry. Science marches on!

Maybe I'm missing something, but the idea of imprinting sounds a lot like what my garage door opener does now.

I've got one of those rolling code models from Sears where you have to hold the opener to the remote while pushing a button on each. The door can then be opened by the remote which itself can be programmed to handle three different openers. (Maybe you have more garages than I do. *shrug*). Seems to me that it fits the model discussed here a bit.

Can someone let me know if I've got this or not?