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Why Climbers Die On Mount Everest

Science Daily reports that researchers have conducted the first detailed analysis of deaths during expeditions to the summit of Mt. Everest. They found that most deaths occur during descents from the summit in the so-called "death zone" above 8,000 meters, and also identified factors that appear to be associated with a greater risk of death, particularly symptoms of high-altitude cerebral edema. The big surprise that the data indicate those deaths aren't primarily from avalanches or falling ice, as had long been believed.

417 comments

  1. Diving? by markass530 · · Score: 3, Interesting

    Is this related to the same health problems associated with diving (I.E The bends?)

    1. Re:Diving? by The+MAZZTer · · Score: 5, Informative

      Nope... bends is caused by nitrogen bubbles forming in your bloodstream, due to diving or rising too quickly.

    2. Re:Diving? by snl2587 · · Score: 5, Informative

      Not exactly. The bends come from fast decompression leading to gas bubbles within the body while the cerebral edema is an excess accumulation of water in the brain which comes from a leakage of fluid from capillaries (among other causes).

    3. Re:Diving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Where do we go from here?

    4. Re:Diving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      Is it down to the lake I fear?

      La la love plus one...

      ...

      I am truly sorry :(

    5. Re:Diving? by Bobby+Mahoney · · Score: 1

      The words are coming out all weird where are you now...

      --
      !#&*
    6. Re:Diving? by quenda · · Score: 2, Insightful
      Actually, it's more like sky-diving than scuba-diving.

      Its a little-know fact that most sky-diving fatalities occur within metres of the finish.

    7. Re:Diving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Nope. Radiohead does not rock, they suck.

    8. Re:Diving? by Falconhell · · Score: 1

      I imagine that the fatalities occour at the last few mmm when they hit the ground.

    9. Re:Diving? by geminidomino · · Score: 1

      Actually, it's more like sky-diving than scuba-diving.

      Its a little-know fact that most sky-diving fatalities occur within metres of the finish.

      Actually, I'm pretty sure that's quite commonly known. It's those last few meters where v rapidly approaches 0, after all.

    10. Re:Diving? by Justin+Hopewell · · Score: 1

      ...when I need you

    11. Re:Diving? by RedShoeRider · · Score: 1

      Yeah, it's not the falls that kills you....it's the sudden stop at the bottom!

      --

      Chris Knight is my hero.

    12. Re:Diving? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Er...replace bloodstream with body and think of it like a wet sponge with skin, off-gassing. The pain it causes is usually associate with the joints.

    13. Re:Diving? by msoori · · Score: 1

      No. I think its more related to this slashdot story http://science.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=08/12/15/1629245 Failure to recognize sarcasm. "Once we pass that death zone, its all down hill from there on"

  2. surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    Not for anyone who watched "Into thin air".

    1. Re:surprise? by Spy+der+Mann · · Score: 1

      Not for anyone who watched "Into thin air".

      Or Vertical Limit.

    2. Re:surprise? by ComaVN · · Score: 1

      Yes, the most likely way to die on a mountain is being blown to bits by nitroglycerine.

      God, that movie was awful.

      --
      Be wary of any facts that confirm your opinion.
    3. Re:surprise? by kobaz · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Not for anyone who watched "Into thin air".

      Or Vertical Limit.

      Vertical limit had as much fact about mountaineering as the movie "Hackers" had about computers.

      --

      The goal of computer science is to build something that will last at least until we've finished building it.
    4. Re:surprise? by wellingj · · Score: 1

      Or Cliffhanger...

    5. Re:surprise? by Yvan256 · · Score: 1

      "Hackers" was about computers?!

    6. Re:surprise? by genner · · Score: 5, Funny

      "Hackers" was about computers?!

      No that's just a myth started by the same people who thought Smallville was about Superman.

    7. Re:surprise? by Hurricane78 · · Score: 2, Funny

      Or Galactica about science fiction.

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    8. Re:surprise? by Hurricane78 · · Score: 1

      It was about rollerskates and payphones, wasn't it?

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    9. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sorry, wrong parent post. Should be one up. That's what you get for drinking the whole weekend...

    10. Re:surprise? by Fluffeh · · Score: 5, Funny

      H3y! I s4w Hackers and it was T3H Sh1T! Its r34lly cool! Just cause old people liek you dun get it!!!!!1!! dont dis what you dont g-3-t!!!!

      Goodness, I feel dirty just writing that :)

      --
      Moved to http://soylentnews.org/. You are invited to join us too!
    11. Re:surprise? by niktemadur · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Holy cow, I previewed my post and it came out huge, but I can't take anything out, it's my Cliff Notes version of "Into Thin Air", quite relevant to the topic at hand.

      Not for anyone who watched "Into thin air".

      Although I've never seen the movie, I highly recommend the book by John Krakauer.

      A pretty good climber and professional journalist, Krakauer was commissioned by National Geographic to write an article about attempting the summit of Everest, embedded into a group composed of a few world-class climbers, the Sherpa support team and a bunch of wealthy tourists, including a socialite or two.

      Krakauer relates some lethally incompetent things that went on up there, try this one on for size - there were three or four teams camping in the North Col, final camp for the summit assault and already above the "death zone". A member of the Taiwanese team came out of his tent wearing nothing but socks, to take a dump on the icy edge of the very high and steep Lhotse Face. Images of shit cascading down a Himalayan ice face aside, it's not only bad form (there can always be climbers making their way up) but also dangerous as hell. Well the dumb bastard slipped and tumbled over a thousand meters to his death, buck-naked except for his socks, on the frozen roof of the world. You can't make stuff like this up, seriously.

      Just a couple of hundred meters from the summit via the Lhotse route, there's a small but nasty vertical wall called The Hillary Step, which can only be climbed one person at a time. On the way up, Krakauer saw to his dismay that there was a bottleneck here, taking a few hours for everybody to make it past this final obstacle, time already against them. Once on the summit, the teams lingered in a daze even as the monsoon clouds were looming large.

      On the way back, the bottleneck was reversed, now there was a line to climb down the Hillary Step. By the time everybody had passed, it was already too late - the sun was setting, the canned oxygen supply was running out, the storm was already there and temperatures were plummeting, textbook description of a worst-case scenario.

      Every breath and step a battle that took every ounce of effort and concentration, Krakauer staggered down in zero-visibility conditions, passing some dying or dead comrades along the way, finally reaching the North Col at around midnight.

      Here's the thing - even with optimal visibility and mellow temperatures, severe fatigue (that inner reserve of energy was depleted in the final push for the summit) and lack of oxygen will impair the ability to think, reason, move and react in a place where any misstep can be fatal. Many climbers have passed dead colleagues on the way down and that information does not compute in their brains at the moment, personal survival overrides any other concern, only later do horror and regret coalesce and sink their hooks.

      Anyway, Krakauer collapsed in his tent and managed to sleep even while fighting for breath in the "death zone", finally awaking to tragedy unfolding around him, I believe it was eighteen people who died on the mountain that time.

      Well that's more or less how I remember "Into Thin Air". Give it a shot, it managed to be gripping even as I already knew the story.

      Finally, a great climbing movie and true story, done as a documentary with dramatizations, is "Touching The Void", in which two British guys climb a South American peak. On the way down (surprise surprise), one of them falls to certain death, off a cliff and into a crevasse - only he survives. Alone and with a shattered leg, he must drag his way back down the mountain before his distraught teammate abandons base camp, or be truly left for dead.

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
    12. Re:surprise? by rubah · · Score: 1

      Huh, I never knew that was a movie. Was that long long book a novelization or was the movie based off the book off the story?

    13. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 5, Insightful

      I climb. The highest peak I've climbed is 18,700 ft (Pico de Orizaba) and it was only -32 f at the summit (I've had 2 ascents) at the coldest.

      High altitude Pulmonary or Cerebral edema has been a major killer of excellent climbers - and you can climb to the same altitude a dozen times and show no signs - and die on the 13th.

      Nanda Devi Unsoeld - Willie's only daughter and Crag's sister died on the mountain she was named for in 1976. I'd met her in the Tetons in the early 1970s. She had climbed many peaks higher than her namesake - but passed away from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema while stuck at altitude due to a storm.

      Everest is 29,205 ft - Denali is the highest peak in the western hemisphere at 20,320 ft - but more people die from football injuries every year than climbing.

      As for Krakauer - he revels in writing about death - I despise his writing. He made his name writing about the death of Christopher McCandless - a man who thought he could overwinter Alaska in a converted school-bus. That's a tragedy - not "news." and the book, Into the Wild is as corrupt a bit of "if it bleeds, it leads" journalism as exists.

      I find Krakauer cheesy and a glorifier of death - a sick puppy where I come from.

    14. Re:surprise? by Brad1138 · · Score: 3, Interesting

      H3y! I s4w Hackers and it was T3H Sh1T! Its r34lly cool! Just cause old people liek you dun get it!!!!!1!! dont dis what you dont g-3-t!!!!

      Does Journey ever get credit for inventing Leetspeak?

      --
      If you could reason with religious people, there would be no religious people
    15. Re:surprise? by ComaVN · · Score: 3, Informative

      Denali is the highest peak in the western hemisphere at 20,320 ft

      Aconcagua (Argentina) is higher, and so are quite a lot of other Andes peaks.

      --
      Be wary of any facts that confirm your opinion.
    16. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      High altitude Pulmonary or Cerebral edema has been a major killer of excellent climbers - and you can climb to the same altitude a dozen times and show no signs - and die on the 13th.

      Actually, there are signs - for a cerebral edema, warning signs include - excessive use of dashes - so if you notice that on yourself - better be careful!

    17. Re:surprise? by houghi · · Score: 1

      but more people die from football injuries every year than climbing.

      Do you have any proof of this? I assume you are talking percentages, not absolute numbers.

      --
      Don't fight for your country, if your country does not fight for you.
    18. Re:surprise? by doti · · Score: 2, Insightful

      more people die from football injuries every year than climbing

      Yeah, and more people die from crossing a street than from being electrocuted.

      That's a common mistake while manipulating numbers for statistics. There are A LOT more people playing football than climbing. The number is only relevant as a percentage.

      --
      factor 966971: 966971
    19. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "I climb. The highest peak I've climbed is 18,700 ft (Pico de Orizaba) and it was only -32 f at the summit (I've had 2 ascents) at the coldest."

      I've walked up Kilimanjaro. That's 19,340 ft. It was a simple walk - good views, probably a good idea to wear good walking shoes and wear a vest.

      Why must Americans make an issue out of everything? Is it because they have nrarely done any cold weather exploration?

    20. Re:surprise? by Leafheart · · Score: 2, Funny

      "Hackers" was about computers?!

      I thought it was about Angelina Jolie's boobs and the evil of skateboarding and how roller skaters were much more in.

      --
      --- "When you gotta do something wrong. You gotta do it right. (Fighter)"
    21. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Denali is not the highest point in the western hemisphere, last I checked South America was still in the western hemisphere! There is at least 10 peaks higher than Denali in South America.

    22. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      why must people like you turn an issue with one person into a a trait of all americans?

    23. Re:surprise? by LanMan04 · · Score: 1

      HACK THE PLANET!

      Type "cookie", you idiot!

      --
      With the first link, the chain is forged.
    24. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      You are quite correct - I should have limited the range to the US.
      Denali, because of its location, is a harder climb.
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aconcagua

    25. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      Every year the American Alpine Club publishes "accidents in mounteering" and the figures show that both total numbers and per capita deaths are higher for football - from children all the way up to adult football players.

      Indeed, climbing doesn't make it into the top 15 - see, http://www.livescience.com/health/060614_sport_injuries.html

    26. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      I took stat - extensively. There are annual statistics published by the AAC - and per capita deaths for football players outnumber climbing deaths. We are comparing apples to apples here.

    27. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      How many technical climbers do you think there are, worldwide? 200,000?

      2,000,000 high school age boys play football in the United States. On the order of 10 of them will die, annually. If just one climber dies in a year, they've matched the death rate for football.

    28. Re:surprise? by jam244 · · Score: 1

      RISC architecture is going to change everything!

    29. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I climb. The highest peak I've climbed is 18,700 ft (Pico de Orizaba) and it was only -32 f at the summit (I've had 2 ascents) at the coldest.

      High altitude Pulmonary or Cerebral edema has been a major killer of excellent climbers - and you can climb to the same altitude a dozen times and show no signs - and die on the 13th.

      Nanda Devi Unsoeld - Willie's only daughter and Crag's sister died on the mountain she was named for in 1976. I'd met her in the Tetons in the early 1970s. She had climbed many peaks higher than her namesake - but passed away from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema while stuck at altitude due to a storm.

      Everest is 29,205 ft - Denali is the highest peak in the western hemisphere at 20,320 ft - but more people die from football injuries every year than climbing.

      As for Krakauer - he revels in writing about death - I despise his writing. He made his name writing about the death of Christopher McCandless - a man who thought he could overwinter Alaska in a converted school-bus. That's a tragedy - not "news." and the book, Into the Wild is as corrupt a bit of "if it bleeds, it leads" journalism as exists.

      I find Krakauer cheesy and a glorifier of death - a sick puppy where I come from.

      Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Western hemisphere (6985 m = 22900 ft)

    30. Re:surprise? by zentinal · · Score: 1

      but more people die from football injuries every year than climbing.

      Percentages please? Whatever form you please. Deaths per number of participants, deaths per hours participating in the activity, deaths per *something*, just so we can compare rationally.

    31. Re:surprise? by Bassman59 · · Score: 1

      Every year the American Alpine Club publishes "accidents in mounteering" and the figures show that both total numbers and per capita deaths are higher for football - from children all the way up to adult football players.

      Indeed, climbing doesn't make it into the top 15 - see, http://www.livescience.com/health/060614_sport_injuries.html

      One suspects that there are a lot more people playing football than climbing mountains.

    32. Re:surprise? by ivan256 · · Score: 1

      The article claims that the rate of deaths for climbing Everest is 1.2% over the last century.

      I don't know what the rate of death is for football injuries, but I'm certain that if it wasn't several orders of magnitude lower than 1.2% I'd either have heard a lot more about it in the news, or there would be a lot fewer people playing football.

    33. Re:surprise? by Chris+Burke · · Score: 1

      Does Journey ever get credit for inventing Leetspeak?

      I'm not in the habit of giving Journey credit for anything, deserved or not.

      --

      The enemies of Democracy are
    34. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      Elmes M, Barry D. Deliverance, Denial and the death zone: a study of narcissism and regression in the May 1996 Everest climbing disaster. J of Applied Behavioural Science. 1999;35:163â"87.
      Mountain survivor was first to fall. The Press (newspaper), Christchurch, New Zealand. April 15, 2004.
      The Climber. Saxon Print, Christchurch, New Zealand. Issue 47/Autumn; 2002: p13.
      Malcolm M. Mountaineering fatalities in Mt Cook National Park. N Z Med J. 2001;114:78â"80.
      Pollard A, Clarke C. Deaths during mountaineering at extreme altitude. Lancet. 1988;1:1277.
      Monasterio E. The Climber. Christchurch: Saxon Print; 2003:Issue 43/Autumn:p31â"2.
      Cloninger C, Przybeck T, Svrakic D, Wetzel R. The Temperament and Character Inventory: a guide to its development and use. Center for Psychobiology of Personality. St. Louis, Missouri: Washington University; 1994.

      http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/causes.asp
      http://www.americanalpineclub.org/americanalpineclublibrary
      http://www.penmachine.com/2003/02/damn-lies-statistics-and-fatality.html
      "The Everest numbers he mentioned (5%) roughly match the 4.3% high-mountain stats I quoted,"

      I am a member of the AAC and have been since the 1960's - and every year they publish their report on accidents in mountaineering. I don't have time to pull my copies and, in fact - I really have work to do. I have given you the best quick info I can find - but the AAC library is the best source.

    35. Re:surprise? by necro81 · · Score: 1

      Slight correction: Jon Krakauer was sent by Outside magazine, not National Geographic.

      "Touching the Void" was a book before it was a documentary.

    36. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      It is a, as I said, a "per capita" or per participant ratio. It doesn't matter that 10,000 climbers are dwarfed by 25,000,000 football players if, taken as a whole, the gross injury rates for football are well above climbing.

      It also takes a different kind of person to climb - one who enjoys the personal challenge and can quit if the route becomes too dangerous. The object of climbing is to climb - and mountaineering is to make the summit and return.

      Football is a contact sport where equipment is used to limit or protect against injuries in the ordinary course and scope of play. Climbers usually have a helmet as the sole "protective" gear aside from ropes, harnesses and appropriate clothing for the conditions.

      There is a theory - if you didn't fall - you didn't need the rope.

        And, indeed, people have "free climbed" (no direct aid, but roped) the nose route and the Salanthe Wall of El Capitan with an 80% success rate, See:
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Capitan

    37. Re:surprise? by el+americano · · Score: 1

      Not surprising for anyone! All of this was well known. That they already call it "The Death Zone" should have been a clue. Those familiar with mountaineering know that cerebral edema is a primary risk. Everything I've read on the subject focuses on the dangers of high altitude exposure and storms - not avalanches.

      Avalanche and ice fall? Who thought that?

      BTW, dying on the descent is true of rock climbing too. It's easy to lose concentration when you're tired and you've already finished the hard part. Don't let it happen to you.

      --
      Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others. -Groucho Marx
    38. Re:surprise? by trotski · · Score: 1

      I'd suspect that if you compared just high altitude mountaineering numbers to football deaths, you'd come to a different conclusion. A day clipping bolts at Smith != high altitude mountaineering.

      --

      "Entropy is the bad-guy, and he is everywhere"
    39. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      There is a link to a 4.3% High Altitude mortality figure in a prior post...

    40. Re:surprise? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hackers was about Angelina Jolie's teenage pouty lips in sexy outfits. I think her character used a laptop a couple of times.

    41. Re:surprise? by omfpe · · Score: 1

      I've done Pisco in Peru (5772m, 18,937ft), failed a summit of Orizaba and Chimborazo (made it over 20,000 feet but had splitting headache and felt really sick), and made it up Cotopaxi (5897m, 19,347 ft). I came close to dying on the way down Chimbo because i was a bit disoriented and really fatigued. Made a mistake and almost paid for it. It takes so much energy to climb in that low O2 air that you just lose everything. Most people aren't used to 12+ hours of any kind of exercise, much less carrying a decent amount of weight when your body isn't digesting food right and you can't retain water well. Add it all up, and you make mistakes or just slip at the wrong time. It's a dangerous sport. These are risks you take.

    42. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      I was in excellent shape for both climbs - and I had the 12 steps, wait take 12 breaths - and repeat. Also I experienced tunnel vision at 18,700.

      On my first ascent of Orizaba my two climbing partners and I rescued a kid left behind by his own college climbing club...

      The second was more fun - we had a WEDDING at the edge of the caldera at 18,700.

      Peru and the peaks there (and, Baffin Island) have always intrigued me, but Peru's government scared the crap out of me.

    43. Re:surprise? by default+luser · · Score: 1

      Yeah. RISC is good.

      --

      Man is the animal that laughs.
      And occasionally whores for Karma.

    44. Re:surprise? by makohund · · Score: 1

      Nanda Devi Unsoeld - Willie's only daughter and Crag's sister died on the mountain she was named for in 1976. I'd met her in the Tetons in the early 1970s. She had climbed many peaks higher than her namesake - but passed away from High Altitude Pulmonary Edema while stuck at altitude due to a storm.

      Isn't her cause of death actually unknown?

      I thought HAPE was only one of few different potential causes, and one of the less likely of them. (As she hadn't shown clear symptoms of either cerebral or pulmonary edema.)

      I read the most accepted likely cause was Mesenteric Thrombosis. (According to expedition doctor Andy Harvard, after consulting with Charlie Houston and other high-altitude experts.) A clot in the artery supplying blood to the membranes around the intestines.

      Another theory was a heart attack. Supposedly induced by by a combination of anemia and high altitude, with the anemia brought on by gastrointestinal bleeding over the course of a few days. (She had just finished a bout of bloody diarrhea within a day or two, and had been laid up feeling weakened. She was pretty sick, and had already decided not to try the summit at that point.)

      Sorry to bring any of that up, but the Unsoeld/Nandi Devi story is one of the saddest mountaineering tales I've ever heard. I always thought it even more difficult because it wasn't any of the better known high altitude illnesses like HACE or HAPE, which are more recognizable and may have prompted an immediate decision by the others to descend.

    45. Re:surprise? by makohund · · Score: 1

      Eek. That should read "Nanda Devi", not "Nandi".

    46. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      It is a tragedy. No post was done - but all of the initial symptoms were HAPE and the storm prevented her from being carried down.

      Ultimately, when the body is as massively compromised as hers' was - one or more organ systems fail. HAPE seriously impaired respiration and that interfered with primary metabolic functions across the entire body. Throwing a clot or simply not having enough O2 to supply the pump is well within the realm of sequale from HAPE -induced hypoxia on top of the reduced partial pressure of O2 at altitude.

      There is an old saying - the body can recover from one major organ system pathology and sometimes two (in ICU) but not three.

    47. Re:surprise? by houghi · · Score: 1

      Where are these numbers of the American Alpine Club? The link only gives the abolute numbers not the relative numbers. Also I can imagine that a sprain enkle is written down with e.g. football and nothing is noted with alpinism.

      --
      Don't fight for your country, if your country does not fight for you.
    48. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      The Journal has detailed reports for every accident in every year since the club's formation. It is collected in the annual accidents issue.

      Join and you can search the library.

    49. Re:surprise? by againjj · · Score: 1

      Wikipedia claims 90 indirect fatalities and single digit direct fatalities per year for American football with an estimated 1.8 million participants, which is .00005%-.000005%. This is orders of magnitude different the 3.4% and 2.5% quoted in the article, so even if the numbers are off on Wikipedia by two orders of magnitude, the point stands. Further, the football death rates still can not be compared, since the rates for climbing are per climb, not per year, and there are many football games each year. We do not have a 2.5%-3.4% mortality rate for football players per game. Sorry, your statement of "more people die from football injuries every year than climbing" is nonsense, exactly in the way the GP describes.

      Oh, and I couldn't figure out what "AAC" means: the top ten Google hits don't seem to make sense in this context.

    50. Re:surprise? by Inthewire · · Score: 1

      And it's a terrible book. Informative, but boring as all hell.

      --


      Writers imply. Readers infer.
    51. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 2, Informative

      AAC=American Alpine Club.

      Your Wikipedia link refers to professional football.

      See, http://www.livescience.com/health/060614_sport_injuries.html
      for injury stats.

    52. Re:surprise? by mverley · · Score: 1

      You're right - "Into Thin Air" is a fantastic read. The scene at the end of the book where he has returned home and relives the horror of passing all his dead/dying hiking companions is gripping. Anyway, I read the book while climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania (not a technical climb, but still strenuous, and in fact, the highest peak in Africa.)

    53. Re:surprise? by eightball · · Score: 1

      Your Wikipedia link refers to professional football

      That is incorrect. From wikipdia:

      From 1931 to 2006, the National Center for Catastrophic Sport Injury Research has reported 1,006 direct and 683 indirect fatalities resulting from participation in all organized football (professional, college, high school, and sandlot) in the US

      and

      In 2006, with an estimated 1.8 million participants in organized football

      ("all organized football (professional, college, high school, and sandlot)" is supposed to be bolded and "sandlot" italicized, but it is not showing up in my browser)

      Note those fatality figures are for 75 years.

      Your original point was referring to deaths due to injuries, whereas the injuries link just shows gross number of any sort of injury, without reference to number of participants.

      Note also that "per capita" usually refers to the general population, not participants. For example, per capita spending values count people who are so unplugged, they don't spend money at all (though these are very small in number).
      Also note, I did not come to any conclusions as to who is right. I haven't seen apples to apples numbers yet, though I went to a few links.

    54. Re:surprise? by againjj · · Score: 1

      AAC=American Alpine Club.

      Thank you.

      Your Wikipedia link refers to professional football.

      Actually, it is all football. Please reread.

      See, http://www.livescience.com/health/060614_sport_injuries.html for injury stats.

      Okay, your link says 418,260 football injuries, without saying how many participants; absolute numbers are misleading (as doti said). Further, the topic is deaths, not injuries, which was what the linked article refers to.

    55. Re:surprise? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      The American Alpine Club, the British and Canadian Mountaineering associations all have more than 100 years of data.

      Have at it.

    56. Re:surprise? by F1re · · Score: 1

      Football is a contact sport where equipment is used to limit or protect against injuries in the ordinary course and scope of play.

      Maybe in american football. In Rugby Union or League when I played the only protective equipment I had was a mouthguard.

      --
      ...there is no sig...
  3. Damn by aaron+alderman · · Score: 5, Insightful
    That would suck balls. You manage to get all the way to the top only to die on the way down.

    Still, on the list of ways to kick the bucket, beats slipping in the shower any day.

    1. Re:Damn by HiVizDiver · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Maybe, maybe not. Very often climber's bodies are left on Everest because it's too dangerous to retrieve them. I guess that it's no big deal if you die up there, you're not using the body anymore, so who cares what happens to it. But its gotta suck for your family.

    2. Re:Damn by chill · · Score: 5, Funny

      This depends on who you were in the shower with and what you were doing at the time.

      The low temperature and lack of oxygen preclude any such interesting developments on top of Mt. Everest.

      --
      Learning HOW to think is more important than learning WHAT to think.
    3. Re:Damn by ChromeAeonium · · Score: 5, Funny

      Could be worse. You could make it all they way to the bottom and then die.

    4. Re:Damn by ragethehotey · · Score: 3, Insightful

      How selfish do you have to be to care about something like the retrieval of your body if you die doing something that is known to be this dangerous?

    5. Re:Damn by wellingj · · Score: 1

      Well there are ways to die trying to stay warm...

    6. Re:Damn by Thiez · · Score: 0

      Just send a helicopter. Getting on the Everest can probably be done in about an hour or two with a helicopter and some rope, assuming the weather is good. Retrieving a body shouldn't be that tricky once you know where it is, unless it ended up in some hole in the ground or under a lot of snow.

      YMMV, I have no experience climbing mountains.

    7. Re:Damn by jcnnghm · · Score: 2, Interesting

      It's not that easy, operating helicopters at that altitude is risky, to say the least. While a helicopter was able to land at the summit in 2005, multiple helicopters have crashed trying to land at the base camp, 10,000 feet below.

      --
      You don't make the poor richer by making the rich poorer. - Winston Churchill
    8. Re:Damn by Thiez · · Score: 1

      I was imagining using a rope to enter and exit the helicopter. No need for the heli to touch that mountain.

    9. Re:Damn by dexmachina · · Score: 5, Insightful

      Helicopters and mountains tend to not mix. The air is so thin that they can fail without warning and crash. The helicopter which supposedly landed on the summit that the sibling mentioned is supposed to have a ceiling of about 18 000 ft (Everest's summit is about 29 000 ft). I believe that landing's in dispute. Either way, Everest is well above the cruising altitude of your standard helicopter, and that's to say nothing of how dangerous landing (or even hovering) would be with the wind speeds up there.

    10. Re:Damn by HUADPE · · Score: 5, Insightful

      The problem is that the air is too thin. The area on the blades of a helicopter is much smaller than an airplane, and they depend much more on high velocity moving large volumes of air over those blades. There is very little air at those altitudes, and it is extremely difficult to control a helicopter. Correction for imbalanced weight is particularly difficult, and that's what you have when you try to pick up a body with a rope.

      --
      This sig has not been evaluated by the FDA. It is not designed to diagnose, treat, prevent, or cure any disease.
    11. Re:Damn by jcnnghm · · Score: 3, Informative

      The difficulty is that the air is very thin and the wind speeds can be quite high, with both updrafts and downdrafts, making the aircraft difficult to stabilize. The conditions may make it almost impossible to avoid touching the mountain.

      --
      You don't make the poor richer by making the rich poorer. - Winston Churchill
    12. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You'll never get a helo to that altitude. And if you could, the helo would never be able to maintain a hover, let alone perform a retrieval.

      The Chinook has a max ceiling of 18,000 ft and there's no option to hover that high up.

    13. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny

      This is Slashdot. You were alone in the shower, and whatever you were doing I don't want to think about.

    14. Re:Damn by turbidostato · · Score: 1

      "Just send a helicopter."

      Just have a look at operational celing of those helicopters and then come back with your suggestion.

      Hint: Helicopters do not fly so high (do not fly on such thin air, to be more precise).

    15. Re:Damn by lysergic.acid · · Score: 1

      that doesn't always work.

      (note: the above link is from a History Channel program about the Mt. Hood rescue chopper crash. here is a slightly higher quality (but shorter) version from a live news broadcast of the incident.)

    16. Re:Damn by genner · · Score: 1

      Well there are ways to die trying to stay warm...

      Nah...cold air creating shrinkage and all that.

    17. Re:Damn by genner · · Score: 5, Funny

      This is Slashdot. You were alone in the shower, and whatever you were doing I don't want to think about.

      This is Slashdot.
      Most of us have only seen pictures of a shower.

    18. Re:Damn by genner · · Score: 4, Funny

      Could be worse. You could make it all they way to the bottom and then die.

      Well doesn't that happen to everyone who gets to the bottom. I mean eventually.

    19. Re:Damn by Antique+Geekmeister · · Score: 4, Interesting

      Sounds like a job for Zepellin, customized to work near Everest. It would have to be big, and the weather probably would have to be ideal, but the maximum height for balloons is considerably higher.

    20. Re:Damn by denzacar · · Score: 1

      Still, on the list of ways to kick the bucket, beats slipping in the shower any day.

      Depends...
      If it is a warm shower with a hot girlfriend and you slip as you were stepping out to get some other flavor of syrup...

      --
      Mit der Dummheit kämpfen Götter selbst vergebens
    21. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      Just send a helicopter.

      IIRC, the upper reaches of Everest are well above the normal operating range for helicopters. Not to mention the weather doesn't lend itself to careful rescue operations. And mountain flying is dangerous enough for fixed-wing aircraft, much less for helicopters.

      Old joke among the pilots:

      Helicopters can't really fly -- they're so ugly the earth repels them.

    22. Re:Damn by ColdWetDog · · Score: 1

      It's been done, but it is by no means easy, safe or routine.

      --
      Faster! Faster! Faster would be better!
    23. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Tragically, this is how the vast majority of mountain climbers die.

    24. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Could be even worse. You could make it all the way to the bottom, survive for another 50 years and then die.

    25. Re:Damn by Hurricane78 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Additionally you get a ground effect at about 50-100ft (I think) and below, moving you away from the mountain and tilting you.

      It must really suck...err...blow...err... you know what I mean...

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    26. Re:Damn by Atlantis-Rising · · Score: 1

      I wonder whether you could send a MV-22B? Or, alternatively, a Harrier jumpjet?

      Or, even, for that matter, an F-35B?

      --
      "It is possible to commit no errors and still lose. That is not a weakness. That is life." -Peak Performance
    27. Re:Damn by d4nowar · · Score: 0

      News Reporter: "John C. Mountainclimber is about to return from his excursion to the top of Everest! There he is now on the last few steps of - oh no... It appears Mr. Mountainclimber has been attacked by rabid wolves! News at eleven!"

    28. Re:Damn by uberjoe · · Score: 1

      Since we are after all posting to slashdot, can I presume that that list might include 'furiously masturbating'?

      --

      The days of the digital watch are numbered.

    29. Re:Damn by timeOday · · Score: 1

      The problem is that the air is too thin.

      Seems like it should be possible to make larger, high-lift blades (that would have too much drag for use near sea-level).

    30. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'd say there's a pretty high chance of that for anyone who climbed Everest and survived.

    31. Re:Damn by piltdownman84 · · Score: 4, Insightful

      Very often climber's bodies are left on Everest because it's too dangerous to retrieve them

      I'd rather my dead body be up there than on the mountain in a hole in the ground getting eaten by worms.

    32. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      This is Slashdot.

      Slashdot? THIS! IS! SPARTA!

    33. Re:Damn by piltdownman84 · · Score: 1

      This depends on who you were in the shower with and what you were doing at the time.

      Having falled in the shower while doing it I would say it wouldn't be the way to go. I was embarrassing enough to take out the shower curtain and crash out into the floor. Her parents who we were staying with at the time were less than impressed.

    34. Re:Damn by Big_Monkey_Bird · · Score: 1

      Or they could be stabbed. At least mountaineering gets you into the open air.

    35. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      studies have shown that 100% of those who do successfully make it down DO DIE... often many days or even years after the climb. Clearly, climbing in any form is deadly.

    36. Re:Damn by zippthorne · · Score: 4, Insightful

      The thin air is only half the problem. The strong eddies being the other half. A helicopter has barely enough lift to stay aloft at the proper altitude. An airship has far less than enough maneuverability to avoid terrain.

      What they need is some kind of cog railway, strong tethers, and the opposite of a JIM suit.

      Or, y'know, just leave the bodies up there. The permafrost makes for pretty good preservation, and you could do worse for a tombstone than the rock that reaches furthest above sea level on the planet.

      What I find far more concerning is the oxygen bottles these guys are bringing up. Apparently, they're only certified for one use, so they just leave them after they're done. But.. Would you really trust a single-use can in a pack of dozens, ON YOUR BACK? These morons are lucky if no one's died from a freakin' compressed air bomb yet.

      --
      Can you be Even More Awesome?!
    37. Re:Damn by Perf · · Score: 1

      Sounds like a job for Zepellin, customized to work near Everest. It would have to be big, and the weather probably would have to be ideal, but the maximum height for balloons is considerably higher.

      Zeppelin. Like, duh.

      Of course Dr X uses a Zeppelin. Think about it - first, he has to search for a climber who is straggling, zap him or her with the death ray, then haul the body back to the secret base to feed the yetis. Do you think he is going to do all that on foot?

      ;-)

    38. Re:Damn by ceiling9 · · Score: 1

      Both of these may be able to fly as an airplane to this altitude, but would have the same problems when converting to hover. The harrier in particular has an extremly high disc loading (being a jet) and the V-22 has a higher disc loading than a traditional helicopter which decreases their hover efficiencies, and limits their ceiling more than other helicopters.

    39. Re:Damn by Fluffeh · · Score: 2, Funny

      This is CLEARLY a job for the Space Elevator!

      Get someone into space, enjoy a nice little elevator ride down to the summit of Everest, maybe have a hot chocolate in the bistro, then shoot on back up the elevator on the next ride and back into space to be brought down to earth safely with a big jet or re-entry capsule. Gawd, I can't believe no-one thought of this already.

      --
      Moved to http://soylentnews.org/. You are invited to join us too!
    40. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Slipping in the shower? I know a guy who choked on ham in the shower. That's right, he was eating a chunk of ham... in the shower. He came out and had a friend give him abdominal thrusts so he lived, but can you imagine? Choking to death in the shower... on ham.

    41. Re:Damn by Fluffeh · · Score: 1

      Hey, with the rate of global warming, your body would get chomped by wormies soon enough even up there, they just might have to wait for it to thaw out :)

      --
      Moved to http://soylentnews.org/. You are invited to join us too!
    42. Re:Damn by myth_of_sisyphus · · Score: 2, Informative

      A few years ago there was a Korean expedition to specifically remove the body of another Korean climber who died. These 6 climbers moved the body 100 yards in 5 hours then gave up.

      Moving a body is too hard.

    43. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      People are under the mistaken impression that getting to the top is the goal. Getting down is the real goal.

    44. Re:Damn by Atlantis-Rising · · Score: 1

      As far as I know, the V-22's service ceiling is only 500 feet below Everest's peak, far higher than most other helicopters.

      Both planes could easily make the altitude, the only question would be whether they could hover and land there.

      --
      "It is possible to commit no errors and still lose. That is not a weakness. That is life." -Peak Performance
    45. Re:Damn by toxicity69 · · Score: 1

      Among airplane pilots or chopper pilots? Because chopper pilots have a joke about airplanes:

      Why do airports have runways?

      So the disabled can fly.

      :)

    46. Re:Damn by zmollusc · · Score: 1

      This is going to sound stupid, but why is dragging something downhill so difficult?

      --
      They whose government reduces their essential liberties for temporary security, receive neither liberty nor security.
    47. Re:Damn by jelle · · Score: 5, Informative

      Well, I'm not an aviator, nor did I stay in a hotel last night, but the 'ceiling' you're quoting looks to be for the as350-b3 loaded with over 900lb on top of the standard 'empty weight', and the youtube video (that shows it sitting on the summit) shows only one person in it. The flight to return back down was very short, so they probably didn't have much fuel sitting in it at the moment that it was at the top either...

      Of course I could be wrong, but I'm convinced that they did it, with the machine they said they used...

      links:

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eurocopter_Ecureuil

      http://www.robertsaircraft.com/as350b3.htm

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhYG-IgsRJ0&feature=related

      --
      --- Hindsight is 20/20, but walking backwards is not the answer.
    48. Re:Damn by zmollusc · · Score: 4, Funny

      Meh, stuff the body in a zorb and pick it up at the foot of the mountain.

      --
      They whose government reduces their essential liberties for temporary security, receive neither liberty nor security.
    49. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Interesting

      http://www.everestnews.com/stories2005/everestcopter05272005.htm

      So it has been done but it is very dangerous. One of my cousins used to fly skiers to mountain tops. He got into a white out or unexpected fog and crashed the helicopter. He survived and continues to fly; but two of the skiers didn't. Also the helicopter might not be able to land anywhere near the climbing routes, and long lining at that altitude is not easy. Any bad weather, which there is a lot of, and no half sane pilot is going anywhere near the mountain, nor do the owners of the helicopter want to see it crash.

    50. Re:Damn by ldpercy · · Score: 1

      Sounds like a job for Zeppelin

      Ooh YEAH:

      So I've decided what I'm gonna do now
      So I'm packing my bags for the Misty Mountains
      Where the spirits go now
      Over the hills where the spirits fly

    51. Re:Damn by Antique+Geekmeister · · Score: 1

      Thank you for correcting my spelling. I meant really to get them _before_ they're dead: it's clear from the Everest articles that it's very difficult to rescue people in trouble on the downslope.

      The oxygen bottles have clearly been safely over-engineered: they're being exposed to extremes of low pressure, the abuse of extreme cold and the banging around of heavy use, and kept light for these mountaineers to use in extreme conditions where ounces matter. The designers have apparently erred on the side of caution: I find this reassuring. And also, what tends to fail is the valves, not the sides. It takes work to split an airtank in a way that causes it explode or even to thrust hard enough to hurt anything, from experience with compressed air in the lab, they tend to simply leak slowly.

    52. Re:Damn by bigjarom · · Score: 1

      That would go over like a lead balloon.

    53. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I vote we invent a helicopter with 10x larger blades and fan heaters blowing at them to solve this problem!

    54. Re:Damn by Lazarian · · Score: 1
      "Sounds like a job for Zepellin, customized to work near Everest. It would have to be big, and the weather probably would have to be ideal, but the maximum height for balloons is considerably higher"

      I don't think Robert Plant or Jimmy Page could make it to base camp these days, unless by "customize" you mean that we send them up with lots of dope. They got really high back in the day...

    55. Re:Damn by grolaw · · Score: 1

      Helicopters don't fly well at or above 18,000 ft - too little atmosphere for rotary wing aircraft. Add high winds and you can see why this method isn't a viable rescue technique - it works fine to evacuate an injured climber from a 14,000 ft basecamp - but manual rescue is all we have above about 18k ft.

    56. Re:Damn by ShakaUVM · · Score: 1

      >>Still, on the list of ways to kick the bucket, beats slipping in the shower any day.

      If you die climbing down from Everest, does that count as an Epic Fail?

    57. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That helicopter was a french one :-) made by Eurocopter in Marseilles. A friend of mine works there. She told me the story how they got an official complaint from the local authorities about it. Still it was worth the PR.

    58. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well, I don't think you need to slip.

      Taking a hot shower when you have hypothermia will kill you any day.

    59. Re:Damn by medraut · · Score: 1

      Actually the thought behind his comment is _selfless_ while the act could be seen as selfish. He was concerned about the loved ones of climbers who have perished. Not being concerned about dying on the side of the mountain could be construed as being selfish. Hell, climbing Everest is selfish. Whats the problem with a bit of selfishness though!

      Yay.

    60. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      wasn't this on /. at some point?

    61. Re:Damn by Rich0 · · Score: 2, Informative

      I think that was the parent's point - they can fly like an airplane at those altitudes, but they can't hover.

      When a VTOL craft flies like an airplane it relies on its full wing surface - at a considerable forward airspeed - probably at least 200mph relative to the ground. The faster you move forward, the faster a wing works.

      When it converts to hover mode, a rotary wing craft like the Osprey is just a big ugly helicopter (and less than a great one at that - it is a design compromise). Those blades have a lot less surface area than the wing, and they can only rotate so fast.

      A thrust-direction system like the F35 can only hover when its maximum engine power is greater than the weight of the aircraft. The problem is that the power output of a jet decreases with altitude. Normally this is more than compensated by the lower atmosphere density which reduces drag, but that only helps if you're trying to move the airframe through the air.

      The VTOL aircraft would be aided slightly by the fact that they do have fixed wings that could be pointed into the relatively high winds up there - that would give them extra lift. However, I doubt these winds are uniform near the mountain so now you add all kinds of crazy stalls as your orientation changes.

      I'm not aware of any non-rocket engine technology that can reliably handle hovering at 29k feet. Rockets would certainly work - you'd still need to deal with eratic winds but the rocket engine does not vary much in power as a function of external atmospheric conditions (in fact, it might perform better the closer you get to vacuum - not sure how significant an effect the air around the rocket has). Of course, a rocket-powered aircraft is going to have to carry a lot of oxidizer - I guess a really clever design could utilize atmospheric air to reduce oxidizer requirements (kind of like an O2-injected turbojet).

    62. Re:Damn by Falconhell · · Score: 1

      Helicopters are a triumph of engineering over common sense!

      But you get to wear a silly helmet!

    63. Re:Damn by Squeeonline · · Score: 0

      A Zepellin would be a good idea except for the massive bag would be buffeted by the constant strong winds at that altitude. It may be able to reach that height but stay still long enough to drop a stretcher like from a helicopter, probably not.

    64. Re:Damn by doti · · Score: 1

      you're not using the body anymore, so who cares what happens to it. But its gotta suck for your family.

      I must be genetically defective, or something.

      I care zero about a body of a dead person, even if it's a loved one. That, and I just can't manage to understand those who do. To me, a dead body is just meat and bones.

      --
      factor 966971: 966971
    65. Re:Damn by stridebird · · Score: 1

      Highly customised! The summit of Chomolungma is high enough that it often sits in jet stream winds...stability of a zepp in 200kph winds? And periods of calm weather are rare, don't last long, and change very quickly!

    66. Re:Damn by SupremoMan · · Score: 1

      Maybe, maybe not. Very often climber's bodies are left on Everest because it's too dangerous to retrieve them. I guess that it's no big deal if you die up there, you're not using the body anymore, so who cares what happens to it. But its gotta suck for your family.

      It feeds the Yetis.

    67. Re:Damn by Arkham · · Score: 1

      Maybe, maybe not. Very often climber's bodies are left on Everest because it's too dangerous to retrieve them.

      Don't they have gravity up there? The solution to this problem is quite obvious, if a bit gruesome.

      --
      - Vincit qui patitur.
    68. Re:Damn by SirGarlon · · Score: 2, Funny

      That's what happened to Sir Edmund Hillary. He climbed to the top of Everest, made it all the way to the bottom, and then died 55 years later.

      --
      [Sir Garlon] is the marvellest knight that is now living, for he destroyeth many good knights, for he goeth invisible.
    69. Re:Damn by elrous0 · · Score: 2, Funny

      Poor bastard probably thought he was out of danger too.

      --
      SJW: Someone who has run out of real oppression, and has to fake it.
    70. Re:Damn by elrous0 · · Score: 1

      That wouldn't be so bad. I really like ham.

      --
      SJW: Someone who has run out of real oppression, and has to fake it.
    71. Re:Damn by quarterbuck · · Score: 1

      Indian Army/Airforce routinely lands helicopters loaded with supplies on Siachen, which is well over 6000 meters. I believe they have managed to land higher in rescue operations. So if they can do it with their about-to-be-phased out helicopters, I would think someone at some point of time would succeed in landing on top of Everest.

      --
      http://slashdot.org/submission/1062723/Cheap-mobile-data-plan?art_pos=2
    72. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I agree. We are all going to die, despite how weird it is to think about too thoroughly. I'd much rather die doing something that I love doing than being in some random accident or act of violence. Maybe that's a little selfish because your family and friends have to live with it, but hey, they'll be dead in the relative blink of an eye anyway.

    73. Re:Damn by Antique+Geekmeister · · Score: 1

      Alright, it was just a thought. I knew that Everest weather was often nasty, but didn't realize the extent. Do you have a pointer to a good breakdown of overall weather there?

    74. Re:Damn by Bassman59 · · Score: 1

      Sounds like a job for Zepellin, customized to work near Everest. It would have to be big, and the weather probably would have to be ideal, but the maximum height for balloons is considerably higher.

      Oh, great ... make it even easier for unqualified rich fucks to attempt to summit Everest.

    75. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Most of us have only seen pictures of a shower.

      Yeah but only because there were girls in them. Girls are hot in the shower. I wish I knew a girl, then I would shower often with her.

    76. Re:Damn by NatasRevol · · Score: 1

      Epic fall.....

      --
      There are two types of people in the world: Those who crave closure
    77. Re:Damn by ckaminski · · Score: 1

      After the Luxor Al tank failures that spawned the whole electrical neck inspection craze, I keep saying the same thing every time I strap a SCUBA tank to my back. I'm walking in the water with a shit-ton of explosive power on my back in a steel/Al bottle that's an undefined amount of metal fatigue away from catastrophic failure.

      Oh well.

    78. Re:Damn by genner · · Score: 1

      Most of us have only seen pictures of a shower.

      Yeah but only because there were girls in them. Girls are hot in the shower. I wish I knew a girl, then I would shower often with her.

      Ah but you don't meet girls because you dont' shower. It's a vicous circle.

    79. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'd rather my dead body be up there than on the mountain in a hole in the ground getting eaten by worms.

      But what does it matter either way? Why would you care? You are dead, and no commonly-known belief system implies that there is any conciousness associated with a cadaver. Eaten by something, decomposing, frozen, pulverized; it's just dead matter.

      Not that I wouldn't agree with the part of leaving the corpse up there -- makes a nice statue, I suppose, although hardly visible to anyone. Maybe leave a radio tracker in there, so your relatives can know the location or something. You could do worse than that.

    80. Re:Damn by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      The Aerospatiale Lama is the helicopter you're going to want in the Himalayas. It still holds the record for highest ceiling in a rotor-wing aircraft.

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A%C3%A9rospatiale_Lama

      Anyhow, as for people dying on Mt. Everest, I guess that should be an assumed risk for being dumb enough to go up there in the first place. And I wouldn't blame anyone for leaving frozen climber carcasses up there either, unless they have heaps of money thrown at them by the climber's family for recovery.

  4. News flash... by fahrbot-bot · · Score: 5, Interesting

    They found that most deaths occur during descents from the summit in the so-called "death zone" above 8,000 meters.

    Um. If the chance of dying increases with time in the "death zone", and descents happen toward the end of your time in said zone, then duh. News flash: Chance of death increases proportional to time without adequate O2.

    --
    It must have been something you assimilated. . . .
    1. Re:News flash... by peragrin · · Score: 1

      That was exactly my thought as well. Death's on Everest is due to oxygen deprivation. next up death's while walking the Marinara Trench.

      --
      i thought once I was found, but it was only a dream.
    2. Re:News flash... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      They should rename it then.

    3. Re:News flash... by NotQuiteReal · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I propose the "recycling zone".

      --
      This issue is a bit more complicated than you think.
    4. Re:News flash... by at_slashdot · · Score: 2, Funny

      "next up death's while walking the Marinara Trench" -- I'd guess that would be caused by too much pizza ingestion...

      --
      "It is our choices, Harry, that show what we truly are, far more than our abilities." -- Prof. Dumbledore
    5. Re:News flash... by RudeIota · · Score: 2, Informative

      Marinara? heh. It's Mariana

      Yours sounds much more delicious though.

      --
      Fact: Everything I say is fiction.
    6. Re:News flash... by lysergic.acid · · Score: 4, Funny

      Marinara Trench? that sounds more delicious than deadly. or are the deaths caused by contracting food-poisoning at Sizzler?

      perhaps you meant Mariana?

    7. Re:News flash... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

      It's not just the altitude. Accidents happen all the time descending on lower climbs. You're coming down, you're tired, maybe it's late in the day. Perhaps you've made your goal and lower your guard a bit. You make a mistake...

      Certainly, the odds for this are higher on Everest, or any big himalayan peak; their scale is something you can't even imagine unless you've been on one. (No, sherpa Quigon Jin, Quicktime VR doesn't count.)

    8. Re:News flash... by poetmatt · · Score: 1

      Usually people spends months to years preparing and training for these excursions for exactly this reason.

    9. Re:News flash... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "next up death's while walking the Marinara Trench" -- I'd guess that would be caused by too much pizza ingestion...

      I just have to ask: Where do you live that they put marinara sauce on pizza? Because, that's just wrong, plain and simple.

    10. Re:News flash... by jellomizer · · Score: 1

      There is also an addition of probability that goes on too.
      >>> x=1.0
      >>> for y in range(8000): ... x=x*.9999 ...
      >>> x
      0.44931099011990128
      (Yes there is a better formula and I am too lazy to look it up again it has been a while)

      But say for every meeter you have a 0.01% of surviving by doing this activity 8000 times you improve your odd of getting killed with the activity
      Now Lets add physical labor involved + harsh and painful environment which creates an additive effect to the danger. So there are a lot of factors. Just placing a guy say aboce 8000 meters and have him start going up is much safer then him doing the full process.

      --
      If something is so important that you feel the need to post it on the internet... It probably isn't that important.
    11. Re:News flash... by HUADPE · · Score: 2, Funny

      Marinara Trench? that sounds more delicious than deadly. or are the deaths caused by contracting food-poisoning at Sizzler?

      Sizzler? They still exist?

      --
      This sig has not been evaluated by the FDA. It is not designed to diagnose, treat, prevent, or cure any disease.
    12. Re:News flash... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I'd rather know what the main cause of death while climbing Olympus Mons would be.

    13. Re:News flash... by siriuskase · · Score: 1

      It is only human to start celebrating a bit too soon. No matter how well trained and rational a climber might be, emotions can take over when you are on a natural high.

      --
      If you must moderate, please moderate as irrelevent, not something bad, because I'm sure someone will find this interest
    14. Re:News flash... by scotch · · Score: 1

      Try this "formula" on your calculator:

      0.9999 ^ 8000

      And just putting a guy at 8000 meters and having him start going
      up would most likely kill him.  There's a reason they spend so
      much time acclimating on their way up.

      --
      XML causes global warming.
    15. Re:News flash... by Hurricane78 · · Score: 1

      You would do it in a space suit. So duh.

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    16. Re:News flash... by poetmatt · · Score: 1

      And that's what darwin is here for, to remind you that being unprepared for something that can be not only life-threatening, but actually fatal tends to kill people. That preparation extends to mental capacity and being conscious of the situation.

      I mean sure, sucks for the family who loses a family member, but I wouldn't say the individual who elected to do said journey was innocent or without fault or deserving of sympathy.

    17. Re:News flash... by Fluffeh · · Score: 1

      I think they were shipped out here to Australia where they have been making poor quality foods and trying desperately not to go under? (No more puns about going under, down under).

      --
      Moved to http://soylentnews.org/. You are invited to join us too!
    18. Re:News flash... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Perhaps it's time to consider that the job of science is to report the facts, even if they are obvious. Or do you really think that you're so much smarter than everyone else that you don't think this had occurred to them?

    19. Re:News flash... by niktemadur · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Chance of death increases proportional to time without adequate O2.

      Reading this, the greatest of all mountain climbers, Reinhold Messner, comes to mind. Back in the early eighties, Messner astonished the mountaneering community by achieving the unthinkable - climbing Everest solo with no oxygen.

      The fact that he bypassed Nepal and did it from the far steeper and more difficult northern, Tibetan side, was impressive enough.
      But whereas basically all expeditions are during the fair weather months of April and May, this crazy, crazy dude did it in August, during the full blast of storm season.

      Nobody has even attempted to repeat the feat in the almost thirty years since.

      Initially, I thought that the guy had a full fledged death wish, but on second thought, there's a great method to his madness - one of the biggest logistical problems in a conventional climb is to haul enough oxygen tanks up there, for a huge team composed of western climbers and Sherpa guides, then the prolonged time it takes to do that also implies hauling enough food and drink, etcetera, not a pretty sight.

      Reinhold Messner was freed from those constraints. His support team consisted of a woman named Nena Olguin... and that was it. All he had to do was haul enough supplies for a few days. As it turned out, he was back at base camp only three days after he set out. He was in the "death zone" for only a day or two, no more.

      On an unrelated but fascinating note, Messner, who's climbed the world's top twenty peaks without the aid of oxygen, also acquired a bit of a reputation in mountaneering circles after a Sherpa "introduced him to the pleasures of smoking hashish at extreme altitudes". Take that with a grain of salt and make of it what you will, but like I said, that is one crazy, crazy dude.

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
    20. Re:News flash... by KDR_11k · · Score: 1

      Deadly radiation exposure during the trip there? Failing to deploy the parachute on the way down and hitting the surface of Mars with terminal velocity? No, definitely Martian rayguns!

      --
      Justice is the sheep getting arrested while an impartial judge declares the vote void.
    21. Re:News flash... by siriuskase · · Score: 1

      The sad thing is that most of the dying are really just rich tourists whose preparation consists of a spending spree at the outfitter and hiring a Sherpa. These aren't Mallory or Hillary. These are guys and gals who got rich overnight doing short mindset deals in business or wall street. Miller time comes much too fast in some professions. It's like struggling for years to invent a new computer only to be faced when the task of marketing the thing before you see any money. Slow gratification is only for engineers and mountain climbers

      --
      If you must moderate, please moderate as irrelevent, not something bad, because I'm sure someone will find this interest
    22. Re:News flash... by Muad'Dave · · Score: 1

      Funny (maybe) Sizzler story. I used to frequent one near Oceanport NJ. The cashier was a nice lady of Pacific Island heritage who always told us to "Enjoy your lungs". I'm pretty sure she meant "Lunch", but she might have been a representative of the American Lung Association, I don't know. In any case, she did make me stop and think about how much I appreciate my lungs on more than one occasion.

      --
      Tiller's Rule: Never use a word in written form that you've only heard and never read. You will end up looking foolish.
    23. Re:News flash... by kinnell · · Score: 1

      Obviously the best way to increase your chance of survival is to minimise your time in the dead zone, and this is the obvious solution IMO. Honestly, I don't know why nobody has thought of this before.

      --
      If I seem short sighted, it is because I stand on the shoulders of midgets
    24. Re:News flash... by elrous0 · · Score: 1

      I once had a really nasty case of Marinara Trench back during the war. Nasty business that.

      --
      SJW: Someone who has run out of real oppression, and has to fake it.
    25. Re:News flash... by necro81 · · Score: 1

      Correction:

      Messner first summitted Everest without oxygen from the Nepalese side - the southeast ridge route. An account of that is in his book Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate. That was as a part of a larger expedition.

      Later, so silence all who doubted that he had summitted without oxygen, he did the solo northeast ridge route from Tibet. This expedition is recounted in The Crystal Horizon.

      His accounts in these books, more than anything else, has convinced me that all that time at high altitude has cost him more than few brain cells. The guy's fascinating, but a little off.

    26. Re:News flash... by alys · · Score: 1

      one of the biggest logistical problems in a conventional climb is to haul enough oxygen tanks up there, for a huge team composed of western climbers and Sherpa guides, then the prolonged time it takes to do that also implies hauling enough food and drink, etcetera... Messner was freed from those constraints. His support team consisted of a woman named Nena Olguin... and that was it. All he had to do was haul enough supplies for a few days

      I'm not sure that makes sense, although I know nothing of climbing. :) If you have two climbers, you need supplies for two, and you have two people to carry the supplies. If you have ten climbers, you need supplies for ten, but have ten people to carry them. The workforce scales precisely with the load. How does increasing the number of people make it any more difficult? Can you explain further please? I'm interested.

    27. Re:News flash... by niktemadur · · Score: 1

      The workforce scales precisely with the load. How does increasing the number of people make it any more difficult? Can you explain further please? I'm interested.

      The main points here are the time and logistics needed for climbers to reach pre-supplied spots while slowly working their way up the mountain. A conventional expedition uses a large contingency of Sherpas to haul food and oxygen for many days. It takes several trips from lower to higher camps to haul the supplies, and of course they're consuming food and oxygen while they do it.

      Not using exact numbers by any means, consider that canned air has to be used every step of the way from Camp One onward. Let's say it takes the Sherpas four trips to haul two hundred oxygen tanks from Base Camp to Camp One, and here is where they put their masks on and turn on the spigots.
      Taking three trips and fifty tanks to haul supplies from Camp One to Camp Two, that leaves a hundred and fifty tanks. Two trips and fifty tanks from Camp Two to Camp Three, leaving a hundred tanks for the small group to acclimatize and attempt the summit assault.
      Now add to this the thousands upon thousands of calories that have to be consumed at those altitudes, imagine the amount of food that has to be transported also, and you begin to see just what a slow and messy process the whole enterprise is.

      In fact, the Nepalese side of Everest is for all intents and purposes a dump, littered with torn tents, empty oxygen tanks, food wrappers, human feces and yes, frozen bodies. In fact, a few years ago an expedition went up not to summit the peak, but to clean up the mountain as much as they could.

      Anyway, back to the logistics. During his solo trek up Everest, Messner was unencumbered by this gradual process. Exaggerating here, all he needed to take was nine sandwiches, a bowl for melting ice, a sleeping bag and climbing supplies. However, he did spend a month or two right at Base Camp to acclimatize, but that's standard procedure, and involved no logistics on the way up.

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
    28. Re:News flash... by niktemadur · · Score: 1

      Messner first summitted Everest without oxygen from the Nepalese side - the southeast ridge route.

      That was Messner and Peter Habeler in 1978. I should have also mentioned that instead of skipping and going straight for the 1980 solo feat. But I did do it on purpose, though, I guess just thinking about the lack of oxygen clouded my judgement :p

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
    29. Re:News flash... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Sizzler? They still exist?

      I think there's still one in Honolulu.

  5. Wrong premise. by PolarBearFire · · Score: 1
    "The big surprise that the data indicate those deaths aren't primarily from avalanches or falling ice, as had long been believed."

    Mountain climbing accidents like car accidents, usually happen because of human error. Anybody mountain climbing is just concentrating on not messing up on a second to second basis, they are NOT playing dodgeball with rocks. Climbers probably know all the gruesome statistics about each mountain and it's well known that most deaths occur on the descent.

    1. Re:Wrong premise. by Nasajin · · Score: 1

      Interestingly, the article links to another news item, dated 25th August 2006, which essentially states that a large proportion of deaths occur due to cerebral edema. In other words, this new research is just confirming what was apparently already known.

  6. What about death from dumbassery by antifoidulus · · Score: 4, Insightful

    There seem to be a lot of people who really shouldn't climb it because they aren't nearly as well trained as they think they are, and yet climb it anway..... Thats gotta rank up there for reasons why people die up there.

    1. Re:What about death from dumbassery by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Go read the book 'High Crimes'. It's a really amazing book about the greed, desperation and , simply put, evil that surrounds everest. Picture oxygen tanks stolen when a group makes its last ascent, knife fights, torn tents, etc..

    2. Re:What about death from dumbassery by aaron+alderman · · Score: 2, Funny

      Like biting peoples arms?

    3. Re:What about death from dumbassery by ciaohound · · Score: 1

      If effective treatments or antidotes for the medical causes of death are found, the dumbassery will only increase. Everest is already littered with empty oxygen bottles and other garbage discarded by arrogant twits who climb it for the bragging rights.

      --
      Oh, yeah, it's not easy to pad these out to 120 characters.
    4. Re:What about death from dumbassery by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Go read the book 'High Crimes'.

      Also see Krakauer's "Into Thin Air". Even the pros can get into trouble. The problem is compounded when the guides take on people who may have done some training, but are not really experienced mountaineers. These guys become "drag-ups" to get to the summit. Their main qualification for the climb is some $30K or so to blow on the trip.

    5. Re:What about death from dumbassery by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You all probably think some other person on your expedition is the dumbass.

    6. Re:What about death from dumbassery by Lavene · · Score: 1
      I saw this show on the Discovery channel about a group of amateurs 'climbing' Everest. Apparently you can pay this Australian dude a heap of money and he will get you to the summit... or not.

      Well, they were not the only group of unskilled 'climbers' on the mountain and at one point there were a virtual traffic jam while everyone was waiting in line to climb up a *ladder*!! And while waiting they used precious oxygen. Some even had to turn back because the wait was just too long.

      How is that for a pickup line: "I almost got to the top of Everest you know. It was just that I couldn't get to that dam ladder!"

      When you go to climb a mountain without understanding the risk, without proper climbing skills (so you can actually climb should it become necessary) and without proper training it doesn't matter what the medical cause of death is; you die because you are stupid!

      There are a lot of excellent candidates for the Darwin Award littering Everest.

    7. Re:What about death from dumbassery by Knackered · · Score: 1

      Go read Joe Simpson's "Dark Shadows Falling" for a thoughtful contemplation of the morality of the recent trend in guided high-altitude expeditions. In fact, go read any of Joe Simpson's books, they're well worth the time.

      I haven't read the article yet, but the result as summarised is exactly what I would have expected.

      --
      a.
    8. Re:What about death from dumbassery by niktemadur · · Score: 3, Informative

      Guides take on people who may have done some training, but are not really experienced mountaineers. These guys become "drag-ups" to get to the summit. Their main qualification for the climb is some $30K or so to blow on the trip.

      Talking about "Into Thin Air":
      Remember how the socialite piggybacked on a Sherpa, slowing them both down, therefore the whole group? Not to single her out here, but that is a perfect example of unacceptable behavior in the "death zone", unseen when only true experts climbed the peaks.

      The book clearly describes the dilemma for expert climbers who become guns for hire, pressured by his tourists who do not fully grasp the lethality of the place - "I paid you $30K (I think it's more than that) to get me to the summit, and you'd better deliver, buster, or you'll never work in this mountain again".

      In a rarefied environment that weakens judgment, the impatient and headstrong, used to getting their way, just might apply enough pressure for the guide to cave in, plenty of involuntary foolishness to go around. Imagine a tourist's temper tantrum after weeks above 18,000 feet, and a few days inside the "death zone", being told their attempt has been foiled only a few hours from triumph. I shudder at the thought.

      Whereas if the guide was only with fellow experts, I imagine his word is final and no questions asked, maybe next year in Annapurna, you know? Not unlike the lieutenant in a combat unit.

      --
      Lil' Thindime, lilting a lacrimose lament, krashes the kwaint konfines of Kokonino Kounty
    9. Re:What about death from dumbassery by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yeah, I have the great solution to this problem: stop climbing the friggin mountain, retards.

  7. That's true on MOST climbs of any height by gelfling · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Climbers die on the way down. It's more dangerous, you're more fatigued and your guard is down. You also tend to ignore clear signs of physical harm.

    1. Re:That's true on MOST climbs of any height by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Climbers die on the way down. It's more dangerous, you're more fatigued and your guard is down. You also tend to ignore clear signs of physical harm.

      There is also the difference in that you can't see behind you when you are going down, whereas you can see in front of you when you are going up. Also, when going up, you aren't looking down. There is a big psychological difference here. I've done rock/mountain climbing and going up you forget how high you are, it seems the same as climbing on a boulder 10 feet off the ground, no matter how high you are.

      Now, even with a rope around me, and I've climbed up a ways, its more difficult to make the jump off of a perfectly good mountain to belay down.

    2. Re:That's true on MOST climbs of any height by Mr.+Underbridge · · Score: 1

      Climbers die on the way down. It's more dangerous, you're more fatigued and your guard is down. You also tend to ignore clear signs of physical harm.

      While I'm sure that's true, in this case they found that physical harm was a relatively minor risk compared to the cerebral edema that they found to be prevalent. In this case, the mechanism seems to be that on the way down, you've already been up, and hence your brain has been subjected to very low pressures for a long time.

    3. Re:That's true on MOST climbs of any height by BradMajors · · Score: 1

      Hmmm... I am a climber and it looks like I might die very soon... should I go up or should I go down?

    4. Re:That's true on MOST climbs of any height by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Additionally, weather is often a factor. Weather can easily shift dramatically during a major summit (even small summits like most CONUS peaks are typically full-day climbs). I can't tell you how many climbing accidents I've read about where the climbers pushed on despite an approaching storm front, and got caught in it on the way down. It's generally worst on the climbers who go for speed and equip themselves correspondingly lightly (nothing wrong with that, as long as you recognize when the need to turn back arises). People who haven't climbed before would be mind-boggled to see how big and complex these peaks that appear so puny from an airplane really are. When visibility drops, it's easy to get lost, or even wander into a dropoff, plus there's the risk of hypothermia, rockfalls or avalanches, and normal hiking injuries that can slow down or incapacitate a climber.

      In the end, climbing mountains is dangerous, and that's frankly part of the appeal. A good climber doesn't flaunt the danger, however. They learn about it and mitigate it, and they also understand their limitations, so then their accomplishment is summitting the mountain based on skill, preparation, and good judgement rather than luck and money.

  8. Title is obvious. by Drakin020 · · Score: 1

    Because it's cold?

    --
    The greatest revenge in life is massive success.
    1. Re:Title is obvious. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      No, because they're high. Duh.

    2. Re:Title is obvious. by GrpA · · Score: 1

      I got to say, I thought that the title was rather obvious too... I guess this is probably important information I need to know in case I ever climb Mount Everest though...

      Perhaps they will top this with their next research assignment, "Top causes of death on Mount Kilimanjaro (presently believed to be heavy metal poisoning while driving back to the airport.)

      GrpA

      --
      Enjoy science fiction? "Turing Evolved" - AI, Mecha, Androids and rail-gun battles. What more could you want?
    3. Re:Title is obvious. by Telepathetic+Man · · Score: 1

      Damned hippies!

      Can't they stick to hugging trees while they're high?

      --
      Just because you can, does not mean you should.
    4. Re:Title is obvious. by knapper_tech · · Score: 1

      Is this some new attempt to link marijuana to unrelated deaths as to unfairly associate the plant with vice and decay in an effort to reinforce the cult of marijuana prohibition?

      I got news for you. People don't die on Everest because of weed. People reach nirvana on Everest and decide not to come down.

      We should leave their frozen bodies and perhaps hold pilgrimages to clear the snow from their eyes once a year.

      --
      "There are some people that if they don't know, you can't tell them." ~ Louis Armstrong
    5. Re:Title is obvious. by owlnation · · Score: 1

      Because it's cold?

      No. It's Yeti. Obviously...

    6. Re:Title is obvious. by Ian+Alexander · · Score: 1

      I think most of them smoke trees to get high.

    7. Re:Title is obvious. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Heavy metal poisoning or kenetic energy poisoning?

  9. Hypoxia by Renraku · · Score: 5, Informative

    The higher you climb, the harder your lungs have to work to extract enough oxygen from the air in order to keep you alive. If you don't get enough oxygen, you don't die immediately. Your brain starts becoming less and less efficient, since it cannot produce energy anaerobically, like the rest of your body can.

    Of course, this process is invisible to most people. Its comparable to how your brain isn't fully awake if you get woken up suddenly and feeling confused at the simplest tasks. Hypoxia also affects divers.

    The leakage of fluid from the vessels in the brain is caused by the same hypoxia, since the blood vessels need energy as well.

    The only solution is for climbers to take their own oxygen, or for someone to invent a mobile and low powered oxygen concentrator.

    --
    Job? I don't have time to get a job! Who will sit around and bitch about being broke and unemployed then?
    1. Re:Hypoxia by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

      The leakage of fluid from the vessels in the brain is caused by the same hypoxia, since the blood vessels need energy as well.

      I was about to post a sarcastic [citation needed] comment up in response to this, but checked what you said first and was pleasantly surprised to find myself entirely wrong. For anyone interested here's a link to info:

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HACE

    2. Re:Hypoxia by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Thank you sir AC. This is the sort of post I'd love to see more of on slashdot.

    3. Re:Hypoxia by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Invent a mobile and low powered concentrator? You mean like the Invacare XPO2 at 6lbs and 5lpm flow rates, or the range of others available on the market?

    4. Re:Hypoxia by lysergic.acid · · Score: 4, Interesting

      hrmm... while the Wikipedia article on cerebral edema supports your statement that HACE (high altitude cerebral edema) is caused by hypoxia, the actual HACE article suggests that HACE is a severe form of altitude sickness, for which the only cure is to descend to a lower altitude (an oxygen supply can help to stabilize a patient, but it isn't a cure). from the Wiki article on altitude sickness:

      The cause of altitude sickness is still not understood. It occurs in low atmospheric pressure conditions but not necessarily in low oxygen conditions at sea level pressure. Although treatable to some extent by the administration of oxygen, most of the symptoms do not appear to be caused by low oxygen, but rather by the low CO2 levels causing a rise in blood pH, alkalosis. The percentage of oxygen in air remains essentially constant with altitude at 21 percent, but the air pressure (and therefore the number of oxygen molecules) drops as altitude increases. Altitude sickness usually does not affect persons traveling in aircraft because modern aircraft passenger compartments are pressurized.

      also, don't most Everest climbers use oxygen when they try to summit? i'd be interested in seeing how many deaths were caused by inadequate oxygen supplies, or whether oxygen tanks actually have any effect on one's chances of contracting cerebral edema. and if the Wikipedia HACE article is indeed correct about high altitude cerebral edema usually occurring after a week or more at high altitude, then it would seem that acclimatization does not help prevent HACE.

      however, the altitude sickness article seems to give a different take on the etiology of high altitude cerebral edema:

      It is currently believed, however, that HACE is caused by local vasodilation of cerebral blood vessels in response to hypoxia, resulting in greater blood flow and, consequently, greater capillary pressures. On the other hand, HAPE may be due to general vasoconstriction in the pulmonary circulation (normally a response to regional ventilation-perfusion mismatches) which, with constant or increased cardiac output, also leads to increases in capillary pressures. For those suffering HACE, dexamethasone may provide temporary relief from symptoms in order to keep descending under their own power.

      though i'm not sure why a hypertensive like dexamethasone would be prescribed if HACE were the result of increased capillary pressure and vasoconstriction. seems like it would make more sense to prescribe a hypotensive like clonidine. lowering your blood pressure would help to alleviate capillary pressure and slow the spread of edema, though it would probably make you more tired & reduce your strength, so this would only be appropriate for stabilizing a patient if they're going to be carried down.

    5. Re:Hypoxia by kenrick · · Score: 1

      though i'm not sure why a hypertensive like dexamethasone would be prescribed if HACE were the result of increased capillary pressure and vasoconstriction. seems like it would make more sense to prescribe a hypotensive like clonidine

      Dexamethasone is a steroid. It's a stop-gap, not definitive treatment, for raised intercranial pressure. Generally you can use it once and it buys you around 6hrs.

      --
      Not a member of the General Public
    6. Re:Hypoxia by evanbd · · Score: 1

      Not quite the same as divers. AIUI, cognitive impairment while diving is a result of nitrogen narcosis (at extreme depths I believe helium behaves similarly). Cognitive impairment at altitude is from oxygen deprivation. Results are similar, but the mechanism is different. They share the common feature that it's very difficult to notice until your abilities return.

    7. Re:Hypoxia by Belial6 · · Score: 1

      Isn't it great when you learn something new BEFORE you make a dumb ass statement? I always consider that a win.

    8. Re:Hypoxia by afidel · · Score: 1

      I'll tell you from personal experience that available oxygen for the brain has a HUGE impact on altitude sickness. While climbing Mt Whitney in California I got to high basecamp (12,000 ft) without any real problems, just a minor headache. We were there for a few hours, setting up tents, securing our food in a way the Marmit's couldn't get to it, and filter water. Around sundown we finally got to eating dinner, about half way through the meal I started vomiting violently and my headache went from a dull ache to something worse then most migraines I have had. In addition my lips turned blue and my eyes became bloodshot. All of this was due to the fact that my stomach was using oxygen to digest food which took away from the supply available to my brain. We quickly broke camp and headed down, once I got below 10,000ft I was fine. It turns out it was fortunate I became sick because on the way down we ran into a father with two boys who had been day hiking and had vastly underestimated their task. They had no provisions and only one light between the three of them. We helped them get down through the more technical areas to where they could safely walk the path with just the one light source.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    9. Re:Hypoxia by RobertM1968 · · Score: 1

      Making it worse, is that it might also coincide with this: HAFE

    10. Re:Hypoxia by The+Creator · · Score: 1

      but rather by the low CO2 levels causing a rise in blood pH, alkalosis

      So oxygen + a small bag to breathe in and out of might improve the results?

      --

      FRA: STFU GTFO
    11. Re:Hypoxia by lysergic.acid · · Score: 1

      some kind of rebreather system might be more efficient, though that might be a little heavy to carry up an 8km mountain.

    12. Re:Hypoxia by jimicus · · Score: 1

      Invent a mobile and low powered concentrator? You mean like the Invacare XPO2 at 6lbs and 5lpm flow rates, or the range of others available on the market?

      Great idea. The only problem is that it's only good for 5 hours, and that's with the optional extra battery. Which probably hasn't been tested at such high altitudes so how well it'll work is anybody's guess.

    13. Re:Hypoxia by swb · · Score: 1

      Isn't it amazing the crazy things people will do on the side of a mountain?

      My wife and I were camping in Colorado and went on a non-technical day hike to an alpine lake @ ~12,000 ft. It was July, but there had been very heavy snows that year and many parts of the trail were still 6 ft or more covered in snow, and the weather was usual mountain variable -- kind of cold when the sun wasn't on you, warm when it was, and of course it changed every five minutes.

      On our way up the trail we passed a family with two junior high aged kids. Dad was carrying a fishing pole and a tackle box, the kids had on the usual clothes you'd expect a lower-middle-class kids to be wearing at home -- baskeball-type shorts, tennis shoes, jeans jackets. I think mom might have even had flipflops or very flimsy tennis shoes on and was carrying a paper shopping bag. No half-sensible gear on any of them -- no coats, no backpacks, no sign of at least energy snacks, no water(!).

      We made it up to the lake, but it was totally frozen over and when we got up there the weather was turning much darker and colder. We passed them again on the way down and told the ranger station about them. It was a very non-technical hike that should have been low risk other than the trail requiring numerous detours due to snow pack, but I was really worried that these people would at a minimum run the risk of exposure should it rain.

    14. Re:Hypoxia by smellsofbikes · · Score: 1

      Antacids.
      The people teaching the wilderness medicine courses I've taken have said "I don't know if that would work" when I've told them my method of dealing with altitude sickness: lots and lots of Tums. They're calcium carbonate. They dissolve and get absorbed. That carbonate has to be going somewhere. I haven't ever gone up high enough to get altitude sickness, taken a bunch, then kept going up -- because that would be STUPID -- but I and my friends always take antacids and when we start experiencing the first symptoms of hypoxic hypoxia (there are four general types of hypoxia, caused by different things: cyanide poisoning, for instance, is a type of hypoxia that isn't caused by low atmospheric oxygen) we eat a bunch of them and start heading back down. The headache and dizziness goes away within a minute of eating the bicarb/antacids, even though I'm still at the same elevation, coz I can't walk that far in a minute. It takes about five or ten minutes for the onset of symptoms, so you're well into the symptomatic altitude range, and the relief is almost immediate once I take antacids. YMMV but I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else has tried this.

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    15. Re:Hypoxia by AngryMob · · Score: 1

      Wait, what? Why can't the brain produce energy anaerobically? Every cell can produce energy anaerobically, it's a prerequisite to producing energy aerobically. Maybe you meant the brain can't produce *enough* energy aerobically, since aerobic respiration produces about 20 times as much energy as anaerobic?

  10. Unsurprising it occurs during descent by syousef · · Score: 5, Insightful

    People exhaust themselves climbing up, but most when they do realize they are in trouble will turn back...or perhaps they realize they have enough and push on to get up there, but don't leave enough in reserve to come back down. Also there's a false sense of achievement - "I made it to the summit!" - but while making it back down alive is actually more improtant it may be anticlimactic and not as big a motivator when you're spent after the effort of reaching the top.

    --
    These posts express my own personal views, not those of my employer
    1. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by DiegoBravo · · Score: 1

      From TFA:

      "during descents, the mortality rate for climbers was six time that of sherpas"

      The article do not elaborates more. The summary's affirmation may be flawed.

    2. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by Hoi+Polloi · · Score: 5, Interesting

      I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume most readers have never climbed about 10,000 ft. I haven't been up any 8,000 meter peaks myself but my few times about 14,000 ft have taught me that the big danger isn't so much the direct low 02 pressure (pulmonary edema, cerebral edema) but the intense urge to just sit and "rest for a while". The body's ability to generate heat is hampered by the lack of O2, add to that a very cold environment, strong winds, and someone deciding to sit and rest and they may never get up again. Fatigue on top of a complete loss of motivation and disorientation is the big killer. Hypothermia alone will lead you to this state; low O2 combined with it is a doubled threat. Even if you don't lie down you make mistakes with gear, improperly tie knots, put crampons on wrong, etc.

      Most accidents happen on the way down regardless of the altitude. It is when people are their most fatigued, let their guard down, have gravity tugging them away from the slope, and are rushing to beat sundown. When you reach the summit people forget they are only 50% done. As the old saying goes, "Summitting is optional, descending is mandatory."

      As far as the sherpa vs nonsherpa death rate I'd say you have to take into account that sherpas grow up and live at high altitudes. They also are frequently used for many expeditions so they are in very good shape physically and are well trained. Compare that to someone who may have only been to high altitude a few times in their life and who's last major climbing trip may have been years ago. Sherpas, unlike the other climbers, aren't there expecting to summit. They frequently are manning camps, laying fixed lines at lower altitudes, setting up higher camps, etc. They don't have summit fever and if told to turn around will do so (remember, the clients on Everest can be paying $65,000 to be there). They can still get altitude sickness though. I have read about sherpas going to, say, coastal India for a while and then getting altitude sickness apon returning to high altitude.

      --
      It is by the juice of the coffee bean that thoughts acquire speed, the teeth acquire stains. The stains become a warning
    3. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by The+Bungi · · Score: 1

      Hypothermia can kill you even if you're not at 14K feet. There's a stage where you actually feel *warm*, like you're burning up. I've felt it. And while not as pronounced as the high/low you get from hypoxia, it can also leave you impaired to make wonderfully stupid decisions that can get you killed.

    4. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by jmichaelg · · Score: 1

      When you're low on oxygen, it's tough to know you're low on oxygen. You start making dumb choices and in an unforgiving environment, it can be fatal.

    5. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by Tablizer · · Score: 1

      but while making it back down alive is actually more important it may be anticlimactic and not as big a motivator when you're spent after the effort of reaching the top.

      Simple solution: a down-only elevator
           

    6. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by drew · · Score: 2, Informative

      "Summitting is optional, descending is mandatory."

      More than anything else, I think that this is the key. I've climbed a couple of 14,000 foot peaks and a number of 13,000 foot peaks. On the way up, if you know something is wrong, you can turn back. Some people get "summit fever" and ignore the impending problems. I've been guilty of this myself once or twice, and have gotten lucky. Others just don't recognize them because they don't have enough experience. However, intelligent and experienced climbers can often recognize many problems before they become critical, and take the appropriate action.

      However, once you've reached the top, there is no "go back". If something goes wrong your only option is to continue on your course until you get back to shelter. And of course, as somebody said earlier, it's also partly simple statistics- The longer you have been up there, the more time there is for something to go wrong. It's bad enough when you are dealing with 14,000 foot peaks, but the starting point of an Everest ascent, if I remember correctly, is around 16,000 feet. And, generally speaking, the number one rule in First Aid when you are above 16,000 feet is "Get below 16,000 feet." That's a lot of time for something to go wrong, and not a whole lot you can do about it if it does.

      --
      If I don't put anything here, will anyone recognize me anymore?
    7. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Many former Boy Scouts on /. have probably done Baldy in NM, at 12,441ft. I remember one thing distinctly, it got much harder to hike even at that altitude. Like you said, everyone wanted to take a breather every few minutes.

      As for being tired and dangerous on the way down, many opt to descend on the far side which is covered in sliding shale. Believe it or not, they do this for fun. I destroyed a $300 pair of boots doing that. Lord knows what would have happened to my head if I'd taken a real spill.

    8. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by TheSync · · Score: 1

      I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume most readers have never climbed about 10,000 ft.

      I found myself feeling "a little silly in my head" after driving up to the top of Pike's Peak (14,110 ft.) Definitely worth a trip!

    9. Re:Unsurprising it occurs during descent by Frank+T.+Lofaro+Jr. · · Score: 1

      Fatigue on top of a complete loss of motivation and disorientation is the big killer.

      Sounds like a typical day at Microsoft.

      --
      Just because it CAN be done, doesn't mean it should!
  11. Why people die on mount everest by neuromanc3r · · Score: 5, Funny
    1. Re:Why people die on mount everest by dabbaking · · Score: 0

      One of the coolest ways to go though.

  12. This is silly by beav007 · · Score: 5, Funny

    The reason that nobody Rs TFA is because the answers are so bleeding obvious.

    It has nothing to do with O2 - the deaths are caused by Yetis.

    Like many guard dogs, they will happily let you onto the property. They just don't let you back out again.

    1. Re:This is silly by Btarlinian · · Score: 1

      It has nothing to do with O2 - the deaths are caused by Yetis.

      Modded informative, really? Let me try. For all of those who didn't RTFA, yetis are often known as abominable snowmen.

    2. Re:This is silly by beav007 · · Score: 2, Funny

      yetis are often known as abominable snowmen.

      It is common knowledge that this is only because breath mints are difficult to find in the Himalayas.

    3. Re:This is silly by AragornSonOfArathorn · · Score: 5, Funny

      Yetis love Whoppers (the malted-milk ball candy). If you bring enough to share, they might let you live.

      --
      sudo eat my shorts
    4. Re:This is silly by Whiteox · · Score: 1

      abdominal snowmen?

      --
      Don't be apathetic. Procrastinate!
    5. Re:This is silly by Almahtar · · Score: 1

      I love the fact that this was modded informative.

    6. Re:This is silly by jibberia · · Score: 1

      We know they hate pies, though.
      (King's Quest V, anybody? Absence Makes the Heart Go Yonder)

    7. Re:This is silly by professorfalcon · · Score: 1

      Yetis are probably Whopper virgins.

    8. Re:This is silly by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I was told they like snowcones.

      Man, movies are BULLSHIT.

    9. Re:This is silly by Have+Brain+Will+Rent · · Score: 1

      Like many guard dogs, they will happily let you onto the property. They just don't let you back out again.

      Depends on the dog(s)... :)

      I awakened one morning - I still don't know exactly what made me wake up but I found there were four cops (looking for someone I knew) standing at my front door - which shouldn't have been, but was, now open - and there was my dog, a 120lb rotti cross, in the hallway about 4 feet from the door just sitting on his butt looking at them. No bared teeth, no barking, not the slightest bit of motion at all from him or the cops... but there was this noise coming from somewhere deep inside him... I guess none of the cops wanted to be the first one to move lol... I had to tell him I had a treat to get him to come away from the door before they did something dumb.

      Years before that I had two wolf/dog hybrids. One day this census taker comes wandering into the back yard - trying to take a short cut I guess - and I could see this from my desk inside the house... anyway the dogs started running in circles around him and this twit just kept walking further in. The further in he came the smaller they made the circle. The guy still kept coming... way high on the stupid-o-meter. I'd seen the dogs hunting together on the farm and decided I better get out there. I lost sight of things while I was going through the house. When I finally get out back there are the dogs and the guy... he had finally stopped moving because each dog had taken an ankle and wrapped their jaws around it. At least he didn't try to fight. I was really proud of them though because when I called them off and he looked at his ankles they hadn't even broken the skin... I guess they were just gonna hold him until I came along and decided what to do with him lol!

      The things is all these dogs were very gentle, happy and friendly creatures - they just knew when someone was somewhere that they weren't supposed to be.

      --
      The tyrant will always find a pretext for his tyranny - Aesop
    10. Re:This is silly by AragornSonOfArathorn · · Score: 1

      I was told they like snowcones.

      Man, movies are BULLSHIT.

      They do. Not yellow ones, though.

      --
      sudo eat my shorts
    11. Re:This is silly by bark76 · · Score: 1

      You should see how crazy they get when the coke condoms in their stomachs burst!

    12. Re:This is silly by WML+MUNSON · · Score: 1

      According to King Graham, killing a Yeti is easy as custard pie.

  13. You get bends going UP by EmbeddedJanitor · · Score: 4, Informative
    You get the bends when reducing pressure causes bubbling due to your tissue having more disolved gases than it can hold. Just like a soft drink fizzes when you reduce pressure, the dissolved gases come out of the liquid.

    Thus, you can only get the bends going up.

    --
    Engineering is the art of compromise.
    1. Re:You get bends going UP by lysergic.acid · · Score: 5, Insightful

      well, most Everest deaths do occur in the "death zone" (above 8,000 meters), so even though it happens on the descent, the pathology that would ultimately kill them (cerebral edema) could have began during their ascent to the summit, and there could simply be a delay between the onset of the disease and the actual time of death.

      but the article doesn't really say what induces the leakage of blood vessels which causes cerebral edema. so it could be the altitude, or it could be the extreme cold, or it could be a combination of the two.

    2. Re:You get bends going UP by mabhatter654 · · Score: 5, Informative

      it's the "opposite" effect going on. At high pressures extra gas adds to your fluids, just like bubbles added to really cold pop under pressure. Warm it up and take off the pressure and you get fizz... only inside your brain which is generally not good.
      In this case, the air pressure is so low the membranes that hold liquid don't work properly to hold it in... It's probably like a mild version of vacuum degassing used in manufacturing... in addition to the lack of oxygen.

    3. Re:You get bends going UP by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      You get the bends when reducing pressure causes bubbling due to your tissue having more disolved gases than it can hold. Just like a soft drink fizzes when you reduce pressure, the dissolved gases come out of the liquid.

      Thus, you can only get the bends going up.

      Hence, the treatment, once you're out of the water (where it might be possible to return to depth, given a sufficient supply of air), is to hustle you into a decompression chamber where you can be subject to great enough pressure to stop the bubbles, followed by decompression at a safe rate.

    4. Re:You get bends going UP by Hurricane78 · · Score: 3, Insightful

      It's the reduced pressure. That's why it's called leakage. :)

      --
      Any sufficiently advanced intelligence is indistinguishable from stupidity.
    5. Re:You get bends going UP by flappinbooger · · Score: 5, Funny

      I think it's because they are in the "death zone".

      If that were to be avoided.... Hmmmmm....

      Yep, that's my recommendation. Avoid the "death zone".

      --
      Flappinbooger isn't my real name
    6. Re:You get bends going UP by Analogy+Man · · Score: 5, Interesting

      Really the climbing at that altitude is an abuse of the human body. The people doing so are managing risk and doing a bit of personal extrapolation to sense whether with the current environmental conditions and how they feel will allow for a summit attempt.
      So it only makes sense that errors in this estimation process are going to be revealed in the later half (i.e. the descent).

      --
      When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
    7. Re:You get bends going UP by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 4, Funny

      "All the zones have names like that in the Galaxy of Terror."

    8. Re:You get bends going UP by pushing-robot · · Score: 1

      Yep, that's my recommendation. Avoid the "death zone".

      Oh, sure, wise guy.

      Here, YOU take the map and YOU find another route to the ancient temple which contains the mysterious artifact that will destroy the source of the evil overlord's dark power.

      --
      How can I believe you when you tell me what I don't want to hear?
    9. Re:You get bends going UP by KDR_11k · · Score: 1

      That's where we employ rule 11.

      --
      Justice is the sheep getting arrested while an impartial judge declares the vote void.
    10. Re:You get bends going UP by DeadPixels · · Score: 2, Insightful

      Or maybe because it's really freaking cold and icy. Only on /. do we question why people die on a freezing mountain...

    11. Re:You get bends going UP by CmdrGravy · · Score: 3, Insightful

      It could also be that when weather conditions or problems with their equipment, themselves or their fellow climbers turn hazardous and become the sort of conditions which can easily kill you most people may well have decided to turn around and begin their descent. Thus most people would be descending during the periods when they're most likely to die.

    12. Re:You get bends going UP by ultranova · · Score: 1

      Here, YOU take the map and YOU find another route to the ancient temple which contains the mysterious artifact that will destroy the source of the evil overlord's dark power.

      Actually, couldn't you just spread a rumour that you're going to the temple to retrieve the artefact, thus luring the evil overlord to the death zone while you're busy drinking and laughing it up at the inn ? If you want to be really clever, you could even have the party's rogue follow him, to learn of any secret route he might know.

      Put all your points to Bluff, and you'll never need to lift a finger.

      --

      Forget magic. Any technology distinguishable from divine power is insufficiently advanced.

    13. Re:You get bends going UP by smooth+wombat · · Score: 2, Funny

      Yep, that's my recommendation. Avoid the "death zone".

      It's just a name, like the Death Zone, or the Zone of No Return. All the zones have names like that in the Galaxy of Terror.

      --
      We will bankrupt ourselves in the vain search for absolute security. -- Dwight D. Eisenhower
    14. Re:You get bends going UP by geminidomino · · Score: 1

      *poke* It's a red herring. Check his safety deposit box... trust me on this. I know...

    15. Re:You get bends going UP by cleatsupkeep · · Score: 1

      Lisa: I thought you said it was just a name!!
      Advisor: What he meant is that Monster Island is actually a Peninsula.

    16. Re:You get bends going UP by omfpe · · Score: 1

      Also likely has something to do with alkalotic blood. As you breathe in high altitude, the pH of your blood rises.

    17. Re:You get bends going UP by Ash+Vince · · Score: 2, Interesting

      So it only makes sense that errors in this estimation process are going to be revealed in the later half (i.e. the descent).

      Partly, but there is another factor that comes to my mind as an experienced non-ice climber: Descending is actually harder then ascending.

      While downclimbing your head is at the wrong end so you cannot fully see where you are going. You have to place each crampon in the ice blindly then try and shift your weight to it and see how it feels. This is damn hard work and extremely scary. When I am was leading outdoors in the Alps last year (on solid rock) I went up something that scared me shitless simply because downclimbing the bit I had just done was far more scary at the time. Even on rock you cannot see what you just put you foot on so feeling is everything.

      Most climbers learn to trust their hands far more than their feet as you have more control over your hands. If my feet lose traction it is my arms that will do the recovering. Partly because snap loading my arms is less likely to fracture a bone and partly because it is easier to see something to grab as it flies past. On ice you smash your ice axe in to whatever looks solid and hope it holds long enough or slows you down enough to do the same with the other arm.

      I may tear muscle fibre but this is a hell of a lot less painful than a compound spiral fracture of one my shin bones or major dislocation of my knee joint. Also, if I trash an arm totally I may manage to get off the mountain and then walk back to civilisation, this is much harder if I cannot even walk when I get to the bottom. Climbers routinely practice snap loading their arms by letting go then catching a feature a few feet below before a major expedition or tricky climb.

      Lowering off using ropes is frequently out of the question since you probably do not have enough gear to leave an anchor point left on the mountain every 60 metres or so. To do this on everest would probably require carrying hundreds of icescrews but I cannot be bothered to work out an exact number since carrying 10 or 15 each is about your limit with all the other gear you need. You will leave some on the mountain, but you have to choose the places you use them on the descent very carefully. (On the ascent your second can collect them as he climbs the bit you have just lead)

      Disclaimer: I have never seriously injured myself half way up a mountain. This is all theoretical and I hope it stays that way.

      --
      I dont read /. to RTFA, I read /. to offend people in ignorance.
  14. Lack of Oxygen to the Brain = Definition of Death by Zymergy · · Score: 1

    I thought that "Lack of Oxygen to the Brain" was the root cause and standard 'Definition of Death'?
    (Of course, I am excluding those who blow themselves up with high explosives, fall to their deaths from great heights [or any who may ride thermonuclear bombs as they fall to earth] ...and any other such instantaneous trauma deaths.)

  15. Easier to walk up than down by EmbeddedJanitor · · Score: 0, Redundant

    It is very hard to walk downhill and keep your balance etc. It is far easier to walk uphill. With reduced cerebral function it is far more likely for someone to loose there balance and take a bad fall going down than up.

    --
    Engineering is the art of compromise.
    1. Re:Easier to walk up than down by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      more likely for someone to loose there balance

      That's why I always hold onto my balance with both hands when walking downhill. No loosing there!

    2. Re:Easier to walk up than down by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well.. why doesn't the summit have a zip line, then. That would be one awesome ride...

  16. Obligatory mangled Futurama quote by Exatron · · Score: 4, Funny

    It's just a name, like the Forbidden Zone or the Zone of no Return. All the zones have names like that on the Mountain of Terror

    --
    "I think so, Brain, but 'instant karma' always gets so lumpy." - Pinky
    "Decepticons FOREVER!!!" - Ravage
  17. Avalanches and falling ice? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Now what serious climber really believed those were the primary causes?

    1. Re:Avalanches and falling ice? by UltraAyla · · Score: 1

      exactly. Having studied Everest for a class, it sounds to me like this study simply confirms what every climber knew (which is still useful). It happens on the descent because the weather is good enough in the morning that climbers say "I can make it" and then they reach the top, a storm whips up quickly (which happens there) and on the descent, the edema sets in and the weather is worse. Many of them simply die wandering around in whiteout conditions, literally freezing to death.

    2. Re:Avalanches and falling ice? by afidel · · Score: 1

      Weather picking up quickly happens on ALL tall peaks, even in beautiful Hawaii you can die from a sudden snowstorm on the volcano's.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
  18. It's part of the risk/fun! by schnikies79 · · Score: 1

    A chance of death or not, climbing Everest is still #1 on my list of things to do before I die.

    --
    Gone!
    1. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by aaron+alderman · · Score: 5, Funny
      Make it the last thing you do.

      Just in case

    2. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by snowraver1 · · Score: 1

      You never feel more alive than when you are flirting with death. Dare to dream.

      --
      Copyright 2010. All rights reserved. This comment may not be copied in any way including, but not limited to caching.
    3. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by proselyte_heretic · · Score: 1

      You DON'T want to know what death does when you get him in bed...

    4. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by EastCoastSurfer · · Score: 1

      Same here. Was supposed to start with Kilamanjaro last summer, but they had a little civil war in Kenya at the time I was trying to book the trip. Maybe next year tho.

      Next on my list is to base jump off the Perrine bridge :D

    5. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by turbidostato · · Score: 1

      "A chance of death or not, climbing Everest is still #1 on my list of things to do before I die."

      If your "schnikies79" nick has something to do with your age and you don't "own" at least some "seven thousands" by now, then climbing Everest is not in your count of things to do before you die, but in the list of things that will make you die instead.

    6. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by Garganus · · Score: 1

      Convenient.

    7. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by schnikies79 · · Score: 1

      It's my birth year.

      --
      Gone!
    8. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by afidel · · Score: 1

      Yeah war kept me from doing Kilamanjaro several years ago as well, that part of Africa sure has a lot of violence =(

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    9. Re:It's part of the risk/fun! by Kagura · · Score: 1

      Any sign of last year's expedition? They were going to build a bridge between the two peaks of Kilimanjaro.

  19. Avalanche? Ice? First I've heard of that... by MikeV · · Score: 5, Informative

    I have never seen anyone claim that the primary cause of death on Everest is avalanche or falling ice - I'm not sure where that fiction came from. It is common knowledge that the primary cause of death up there is directly related with complications from being in the dead zone, combined with the complications of frequent blizzards that hamper the attempts to get out of the dead zone. Climbers run out of oxygen and also get lost. Some have to be left behind by others because all are under distress and unable to help the straggler. It's a very deadly place to go and is foolish in that one in ten end up dying up there.

    1. Re:Avalanche? Ice? First I've heard of that... by greedom · · Score: 1

      I'd have to agree with MikeV. If someone told me ice falls and avalanches were the main cause of death on Everest, I would've laughed in their face.

    2. Re:Avalanche? Ice? First I've heard of that... by guanxi · · Score: 2, Informative

      Per the actual research, the primary cause of death (above basecamp) is indeed physical trauma. The table is here:
      http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content-nw/full/337/dec11_1/a2654/TBL2

      The actual article is here:
      http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/337/dec11_1/a2654

    3. Re:Avalanche? Ice? First I've heard of that... by hughk · · Score: 1

      This is a bit like saying that most old people die because their heart stops.

      When you are fatigued, rope work becomes complicated - even at low (Alpine) altitudes. People can simply forget to belay properly or to clip that karabiner on. So add to this the problems of high-altitude sickness and the difficulty around the Cornice going up from the South Summit (easy, just don't fall either side or step on unsupported snow) and then Hillary Step as well as the cold. Now just add to this a sudden drop in visibility (some climbers have even been forced to use GPS) and you can see how easy it is to make a mistake, not have adequate safety and fall off the mountain.

      --
      See my journal, I write things there
  20. "death zone" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    most deaths occur during descents from the summit in the so-called "death zone"

    Well, there's your problem! Just name that part of the mountain something else!

    1. Re:"death zone" by Provocateur · · Score: 1

      Or put a sign saying 'Congratulations! You've made it past the Death Zone!'

      And if you absolutely hate some guy in the other team so bad, you'd place that sign right before the 'Just Kidding!' sign, on the downward slope.

      --
      WARNING: Smartphones have side effects--most of them undocumented.
  21. i was thinking about this recently by circletimessquare · · Score: 4, Interesting

    when it came to cheaters in sports, they'll do things like dope with epo

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erythropoietin

    and blood bank: inject their own previously extracted, concentrated red blood cells back into themselves before the run/ bike (with the subsequent increase in clot risk, of course)

    of course, why can't climbers do this as well? take all of the illegal things they do in sports and apply it legally. of course, they are raising their risk of death with some of these body modifications, but at a lower, controlled risk than that from climbing a mountain without any body preparation at all

    regardless, any climber should spend time running marathons in the high alps or the high sierra to increase red blood cell production naturally, if you are not genetically a sherpa

    --
    intellectual property law is philosophically incoherent. it is your moral duty to ignore it or sabotage it
    1. Re:i was thinking about this recently by turbidostato · · Score: 1

      "of course, why can't climbers do this as well?"

      Because there's no (big) money on it. People still climb the Everest (and that's even truer for mountains with not such a big name) because the sake of it.

      I can reach higher altitudes any day by paying (almost) pennys on any commercial flight. If any, I'm not surprised climbers not using EPO an such; I'm surprised by how so many climb Everest with oxygen support.

    2. Re:i was thinking about this recently by afidel · · Score: 1

      Climbing Everest without oxygen is incredibly difficult, only 60 people of ~3,000 that have summited have done it without supplemental oxygen. 2% of people who have accomplished one of the toughest human feats have done it while making it even harder, that's a pretty elite group.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    3. Re:i was thinking about this recently by hughk · · Score: 1

      You would have to be careful not to over-thicken the blood. This can cause problems too at high altitude.

      --
      See my journal, I write things there
    4. Re:i was thinking about this recently by hughk · · Score: 2, Informative

      Because there's no (big) money on it. People still climb the Everest (and that's even truer for mountains with not such a big name) because the sake of it.

      You still spend serious money climbing everest, add to that the gear so dropping an extra $10K-$20K on high-altitude adaptive treatments wouldn't be a problem..

      --
      See my journal, I write things there
    5. Re:i was thinking about this recently by lena_10326 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Nit pick. Doping in sports isn't illegal if you're referring to the law (at least in USA). The most common, steroids and EPO, are not illegal compounds.

      --
      Camping on quad since 1996.
    6. Re:i was thinking about this recently by CallMyCards · · Score: 1

      when it came to cheaters in sports, they'll do things like dope with epo

      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erythropoietin

      and blood bank: inject their own previously extracted, concentrated red blood cells back into themselves before the run/ bike (with the subsequent increase in clot risk, of course)

      of course, why can't climbers do this as well?

      Actually people eat drugs to prevent and adapt better to HA-sickness. The most common is Acetazolamide (Diamox, Ã-demin where I live). It makes blood more acidic, google for more details.

      It works great, I used once to climb 16000 feet in 2 days. The only problem is small side-effects, it changes your taste a lot. Most liquids taste odd or bland, except water. And it also causes odd sensations in your feet and arms, like there's been interruption in your circulation, tingling and loss of feel.

    7. Re:i was thinking about this recently by smellsofbikes · · Score: 2, Informative

      The problem with the so-called dead zone is that there isn't enough air pressure to force oxygen into your blood, across the lung cells. You can have all the red blood cells you want, but if they can't get oxygen in, you have a problem.
      The ValSalva Maneuver is a way of coping with this, to some extent: you suck in air and then compress your lungs like you're a kid trying to make your face red. That increases the air pressure.

      There are different kinds of hypoxia. One is not having enough red blood cells (or poisoned red blood cells, as seen in smokers or cyanide victims.) Another is not having enough oxygen pressure to get air into those cells. Epo treats the wrong problem here. Bicyclists are running into limits getting oxygen from the air jammed through their blood and into their muscles, and epo helps with that. (However a little bit of dehydration and your blood turns to jello -- something like half the Dutch national cycling team died in two consecutive years back in the early '90's because they were overdosing on epo and having heart attacks from blood cells jamming up their capillaries.)

      --
      Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
    8. Re:i was thinking about this recently by turbidostato · · Score: 1

      "Climbing Everest without oxygen is incredibly difficult"

      Yes I know, but since it's possible, I really don't see the point on doing it any other way.

      "2% of people who have accomplished one of the toughest human feats have done it while making it even harder"

      No, no, no: 98% acomplished it by making it easier, which it's quite different. I can understand Mallory or Hillary going there with oxygen because the challenge by that time was "being there" by any means (within alpinism limits); I can even understand that going for a peek by anywhere but the easiest path (except when talking about walls, that's another kind of beast by itself) can truly be considered "loop the loop" and a form of "making it harder", but specially after Messner's feat I really can't understand any other way to go after eigth-thousands but without oxygen.

    9. Re:i was thinking about this recently by afidel · · Score: 1

      Some people do it to compete with others, some do it to compete with themselves and against the mountain and mother nature. If you know you wouldn't be able to do it without oxygen but you think you have a shot with it, it might be the toughest thing you ever do and so it might be worth doing. Besides that Everest isn't anywhere the most difficult so by your logic it's not worth doing, K2 is MUCH more difficult for instance. Personally I can't do 5km peaks very well (I'm a moderately out of shape flatlander) so I know I will never see the summit of an 8km peak.

      --
      There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
    10. Re:i was thinking about this recently by turbidostato · · Score: 1

      "Besides that Everest isn't anywhere the most difficult so by your logic it's not worth doing, K2 is MUCH more difficult for instance."

      That's certainly "guts feeling" but, by my very logic it doesn't result Everest being not worthing. My "logic" was applied to *how* to climb, nor what. Even if there were peaks not worthing being climbed, Everest wouldn't be one of them, cause:
      1) It still is "the highest peak" (yeah, yeah, I know about Mauna Loa; that's good for Asimov, not for alpinism)
      2) It still follows Mallory's idea: why is it Everest worth climbing? Because it's there.

      I'll say even more: there's no peak not worthing being climbed. Even if someone already had all the eight thousands without oxygen and alone, he still would feel, say, Mont Blanc worthing to be climbed if it were not already. It is because of the mountain (any mountain), because "it's there".

  22. Re:Lack of Oxygen to the Brain = Definition of Dea by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    My definition of death: unable to determine 1+1=2.

  23. genius by binaryseraph · · Score: 4, Funny

    Hmm why do climbers die on everest? wweellll jeeez, its a giant mound of rock and ice that humans are not designed to be climbing on naturally. Thanks for the clarification science!

    1. Re:genius by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hmm why do climbers die on everest? wweellll jeeez, its a giant mound of rock and ice that humans are not designed to be climbing on naturally. Thanks for the clarification science!

      Humans aren't designed to do a lot of things. For example, humans certainly aren't designed to move at 150 mph in small metal boxes, yet many do every day, and it usually works out quite well - insofar as that if there are casualties, they're not directly linked to moving at that speed as such.

      Still, back when railroads were first built, there were many who thought it'd be dangerous, even deadly, for a human to move at a speed greater than what could be attained, say, on horseback.

      It's not quite the same, maybe, but looking into why something happens - or doesn't happen - is exactly what science is about - and saying "X is dangerous because humans aren't designed to do X" is fallacious, anyway, as the above example shows.

  24. Everest: Beyond the Limit by xRelisH · · Score: 1

    I was watching past seasons show a few months ago and it shows pretty raw first hand accounts of what it's like to attempt to climb Everest. The show also makes a good effort in recognizing the true climbers on the mountains -- the Sherpas, who assist and often save the lives of climbers.

    1. Re:Everest: Beyond the Limit by myth_of_sisyphus · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I was surprised at the basic ineptitude of most of the climbers. There were logjams at ladders because people didn't know how to negotiate them and other climbers are literally yelling at others "you incompetent fuck!" etc. etc...

  25. Nope, not the same. by DrYak · · Score: 1

    Not exactly.

    The lack of oxygen to the brain and several key organ is defined as "shock". (Not enough blood flow reaching said organs - Most of the type of shocks due to a drop of blood pressure arriving at said organs).

    Death is currently defined to be lack of ability to sustain basic life support functions without a machine assistance, and is tested by checking a series of reflexes. Those reflexes don't actually check the brain, but the brain stem actually.

    Once upon a time death used to be defined as a cardio-respiratory arrest. But as techniques in resuscitation and artificial life support have advanced that definition doesn't cut it anymore.

    --

    disclaimer: The explanation I'm giving here is an over simplification. See the wikipedia articles linked for more accuracy and more details. Although IAAMD, the above descriptions are not to be taken literally.

    --
    "Sufficiently advanced satire is indistinguishable from reality." - [Tips: 1DrYakQDKCQ6y52z6QbnkxHXAocMZJE61o ]
    1. Re:Nope, not the same. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "Death is currently defined to be lack of ability to sustain basic life support functions without a machine assistance, and is tested by checking a series of reflexes."

      I claim the two Bs: Big Bullshit. Would you say a concious man attached to an artificial lung is dead as it is implied by your definition?

    2. Re:Nope, not the same. by aadvancedGIR · · Score: 1

      Your definition is the clinical death, wich is only a legal threshold based on the medical constatation that this state is most likely irreversible. But on a biological point of view, the tissues are still alive until after the patient is unplugged.

      Doctors need that kind of codified definition because the grey area between a functional body and a rotting corpse (and particulary the no return point) are not that well understood.

      and BTW, in some cases (for example drowning in cold water), people can seem dead but still be resurected quite a long time (half an hour) after they stop breathing thanks to the lack of oxygen going to their brain (it causes a kind of "emergency shutdown" that delays cell destruction).

  26. And there you have it... by refactored · · Score: 1
    climbing Everest is still #1 on my list of things to do before I die.

    Silly sods know they have one chance, and probably realise at about the 60% mark they should give up and turn around, but know if they do they will die without having achieved #1. So they push on, already behind, already over exerting, hit the top too late, and yes, it was the #1 and #omega thing they did before they died.

    So why is anybody surprised by these results?

  27. The big surprise that the data indicate those deat by Bonobo_Unknown · · Score: 1

    I'm surprised that this is a big surprise. I thought it was common knowledge that oxygen deprivation and the effects of altitute were the most deadly factors...

    --
    We don't believe in radical loony monotheistic religions from the middle east -- we're Christians.
  28. Because people are assholes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Climbers die while descending Mount Everest because even though hundreds of people capable of rescuing them pass, all of those people have paid upwards of $25,000 to have a chance to summit the peak, and none of those assholes are willing to risk their precious experience to save someone's life.

    Every year there's another couple of these utterly avoidable fatalities.

    1. Re:Because people are assholes by CohibaVancouver · · Score: 4, Informative

      Climbers die while descending Mount Everest because even though hundreds of people capable of rescuing them pass, all of those people have paid upwards of $25,000 to have a chance to summit the peak, and none of those assholes are willing to risk their precious experience to save someone's life.

      Well, Anonymous Coward, that's not entirely true. While I'm not a climber, I've read numerous books on climbing Everest, as well as watched several documentaries and talked to some climbers about it. As I understand it, once you're in the death zone, *every step* is an ordeal. You literally think about it, lift your foot, move it, and put it down, then think about the next one. Apparently it's like trying to walk with a 200 pound backpack on. In many cases, if you're climbing Everest and you come upon someone in need of assistance, even if you want to, there's nothing you can do. You can't carry someone in the death zone, there's no sled to put them on, no ski patrol with a helicopter. Basically, all you can do is give them your oxygen bottle, make them comfortable, and then get back to trudging. Tragic, but true.

    2. Re:Because people are assholes by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      At that altitude your resting pulse is the same as your max pulse so you are maxed out just sitting there, much less trying to carry 150 lbs of gear + yourself up the mountain.

      Also, what is this obsession with retrieving bodies. Unless they are in the way or somewhere they will cause disease, I don't see why anyone really cares.

  29. Another unexpected way... by NerveGas · · Score: 3, Funny

    One of my friends went to hike Everest... he didn't make it very far up. Eating food from some of the natives made him very sick (projectiles from both ends), and he was drug off to a hospital. He didn't die, but it was a possibility in his condition.

    THAT would suck... travel half-way around the world, to be taken down by tourist food.

    --
    Oh, you're not stuck, you're just unable to let go of the onion rings.
    1. Re:Another unexpected way... by binaryseraph · · Score: 1

      Or even worse, to be taken out by frozen projectiles from your sick friend. What a way to die on Everest.

  30. Oooh! I know! by jollyreaper · · Score: 0, Redundant

    They die because it's cold and the air's thin.

    --
    Kwisatz Haderach
    Sell the spice to CHOAM
    This Mahdi took Shaddam's Throne
  31. I know why... by duffbeer703 · · Score: 0, Flamebait

    Climbers die on Mt. Everest because they are frickin idiots. There is no good reason to go up there, and they should leave the bodies up there to serve as warnings to other idiots.

    --
    Conformity is the jailer of freedom and enemy of growth. -JFK
    1. Re:I know why... by turbidostato · · Score: 1

      You are *absolutly* true: there's no good reason to go up there.

      Except that from Mallory: "because it's there".

      And that's all about climbing mountains. You get it or you don't.

    2. Re:I know why... by AragornSonOfArathorn · · Score: 1

      Climbers die on Mt. Everest because they are frickin idiots. There is no good reason to go up there, and they should leave the bodies up there to serve as warnings to other idiots.

      They do leave the bodies up there. It is WAY too dangerous to try to retrieve them. I think there have been some exceptions, but most people who die on Everest stay on Everest.

      --
      sudo eat my shorts
    3. Re:I know why... by jlehtira · · Score: 1

      Yea, you're right. Just like there's no good reason for having sex with contraceptives. Ha! Only dumb idiots cannot realize what they're doing is in vain. Too bad it seems we're all idiots.

    4. Re:I know why... by duffbeer703 · · Score: 1

      That's a pretty lousy analogy.

      People climbing Everest are in the top 5% of mountain climbers. They typically know (or at least think they know) what they are doing.

      Yet the overall death rate is between 1-2% -- a very high number for skilled people performing a single activity. This doesn't even get into the injuries that people suffer either.

      The "I climb mountains because they are there" stuff is macho nonsense. If you want a thrill with a 2% death rate and higher injury rate, fling yourself off of a 15 foot wall and enjoy the ride.

      --
      Conformity is the jailer of freedom and enemy of growth. -JFK
  32. Re:Lack of Oxygen to the Brain = Definition of Dea by kenrick · · Score: 1

    Not necessarily - depends where you are. In Britain, death is defined as absence of brain stem _activity_ (IANAL/IANAD)

    --
    Not a member of the General Public
  33. Score one for Captain Obvious!! by computerchimp · · Score: 1

    "Everest Beyond the Limit" was the Discovery channel reality show that was on several years ago. It was made clear that it was known that most climbers die on the decent in the "death zone" from reasons other than "avalanches or falling ice". The primary cause was "high-altitude cerebral edema".

    What is next? A slashdot article on "when flipping a coin heads actually shows up 50% of the time!"

    Computer Chimp

  34. Re:The big surprise that the data indicate those d by LanceUppercut · · Score: 1

    LOL. You could've just said "the effects of altitute" is the deadly factor, because oxygen deprivation is an effect of altitude anyway (it's "altituDe", BTW).

    Have you actually read the article?

  35. WHy do people die on Everest? by frank_adrian314159 · · Score: 1

    To paraphrase the late George Mallory, "Because they're there."

    --
    That is all.
  36. Everyone knows....its the gun violence by computerchimp · · Score: 3, Funny

    Gun violence and cancer are the 2 killers on Everest. How could they miss this?

  37. Good book on the problem by dbIII · · Score: 2, Informative
    "White Limbo" by Lincoln Hall is about a 1984 Everest expedition where there were problems with very severe frostbite and cerebral edema. They all survived by alternatively going down as quickly as possible, turning back early when things looked risky and one climber kept his damaged hands frozen outside his sleeping bag so that he could still hold an ice axe and make it down alive at the cost of his hands.

    He also wrote "Alive in the death zone" after his 2006 expedition when he was thought dead and left overnight by his fellow climbers after suffering a cerebral edema on the way down. I haven't read that one yet.

    The writer may sound a bit accident prone but consider the time between those two dates :)

    1. Re:Good book on the problem by Fluffeh · · Score: 1

      He also wrote "Alive in the death zone" after his 2006 expedition when he was thought dead and left overnight by his fellow climbers after suffering a cerebral edema on the way down. I haven't read that one yet.

      Suffering a cerebral edema, then writing a book you say? I get the feeling it might read somewhat like an incorrectly filled crossword or one of those newspaper letter games that no-one ever does?

      --
      Moved to http://soylentnews.org/. You are invited to join us too!
    2. Re:Good book on the problem by dbIII · · Score: 2, Informative
      People recover from cerebral edemas as long as they come down to a low altitude quickly enough (eg. Tim McCartney Snape in the 1984 expedition and Lincoln Hall in 2006).

      Writing a book without fingers and toes however does sound pretty difficult to me, and that's what Lincoln Hall did for the book about the 2006 expedition.

      Anyway, I recommend "White Limbo" and reviewers liked the other book.

    3. Re:Good book on the problem by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I would have enjoyed watching him trying to write that book without any hands...

  38. Anonymous Coward by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Nice job! Thanks for your information.

    ------------------
    I know some wow gold in wow, cheap wow gold farmed by man.

  39. The actual research report in BMJ by guanxi · · Score: 3, Informative

    You can read the actual research for yourself in British Medical Journal:

    http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content/full/337/dec11_1/a2654

  40. Comment removed by account_deleted · · Score: 5, Funny

    Comment removed based on user account deletion

  41. The answer is simple by DJRumpy · · Score: 0, Flamebait

    Stupidity...

    Why anyone would participate in such a dangerous 'sport' begs for natural selection to step in and perform it's function. Nuff said.

    1. Re:The answer is simple by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So you never get into a car, right? That's a dangerous pastime as well and thousands of people die every year in cars ;p

    2. Re:The answer is simple by DJRumpy · · Score: 1

      I can drive my car thousands upon thousands of times and never have an accident. I would challenge any mountain climber to say the same. It is inherently more dangerous and comparing the two as equally risky is silly.

  42. So, where do ... by PPH · · Score: 1

    ...Yeti attacks fall on the list?

    Q: Why do mountain climbers rope themselves together?
    A: To prevent the sensible ones from going home.

    --
    Have gnu, will travel.
  43. Why do... by Jimbob+The+Mighty · · Score: 1
    Why do people climb it? Because it's there.

    Why do people die climbing it? Because they're there

    1. Re:Why do... by Jimbob+The+Mighty · · Score: 1
      Let me elaborate:

      Any time a human body is placed into a situation or environment that it was not evolved for (such as moving 200mph, being in a vacuum, being really, really deep underwater, being above a certain altitude without a pressurized room), and equipment fails, there WILL be a chance that people will die.

    2. Re:Why do... by spire3661 · · Score: 1

      Let me elaborate:

      Any time a human body is placed into a situation or environment that it was not evolved for (such as moving 200mph, being in a vacuum, being really, really deep underwater, being above a certain altitude without a pressurized room), there WILL be a chance that people will die.

      I normally dont do this but...... Fixed.

      --
      Good-bye
    3. Re:Why do... by Jimbob+The+Mighty · · Score: 1
      Let me take it one step further:

      Any time a human body does anything, there will be a chance that it could die.

    4. Re:Why do... by Reziac · · Score: 1

      Good point. It isn't *necessary* that equipment fails; it's only necessary that there be a chance that the human body will fail under the stress.
      Frex, all the bottled oxygen in the world won't help you if your body is no longer able to absorb and/or retain that oxygen, and at that point it doesn't matter how perfectly that oxygen bottle performs.

      --
      ~REZ~ #43301. Who'd fake being me anyway?
  44. Ooo, Ooo...I know! by certain+death · · Score: 1

    HYPOXIA!!

    --
    "My immediate reaction is "WTF? What kind of moron doesn't make things 64-bit safe to begin with?" Linus
  45. Why climbers die on mount everest by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Hubris. What else?

  46. I had to do this.. by blitziod · · Score: 2, Funny

    because it's there!

    --
    The only way to bust a doper--is when you yourself become a smoker!
    1. Re:I had to do this.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      First!

      Sincerely,
      Sir Edmund Hillary

    2. Re:I had to do this.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I beg to differ...

      Sincerely,
      Sherpa Tensing

  47. Deaths at base camp? by ryry · · Score: 1

    The article says:

    "Of a total of reported 212 deaths on Everest from 1921 to 2006, 192 occurred above Base Camp, the last encampment before technical (roped) climbing begins."

    Does this mean that 10% of climbers die at (or below) base camp? That's a little scary, because in early October this year, I spent a night at a tent hotel near base camp on the Tibetan side. The altitude is 5200m. I had pretty bad headaches and stomach weirdness from the air pressure differences. Two of the three people I was with had trouble breathing; one even vomited after waking up in the morning. Now I'm glad we didn't go up any higher.

    I got some amazing photos though and, well it's Mount Frickin' Everest!

    --
    -ryry
    ::insert witty .sig here::
    1. Re:Deaths at base camp? by jlehtira · · Score: 1

      Yea, that's what it means, and it's really telling. The base camp height is already serious business. People have died of altitude sickness in heights of 3000 meters and up.

      Well, some would probably have died of other illnesses, accidents etc. And of injury they suffered higher up, but then got down before dying.

  48. Go look at some tech specs. by Joce640k · · Score: 1

    The problem is that helicopters simply don't go that high. The air's too thin.

    If they did you can bet there'd be tourist flights to the top of Everest.

    --
    No sig today...
  49. Stories of challenge... by PhotoGuy · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I have mixed feelings on the Everest thing. I guess I can understand people wanting to test their limits, and push themselves. And the isolation and harsh environment can be intruiging.

    However, the stories of loved ones, wifes and children, left behind when someone screws up and dies, really make these acts seem selfish at times. (Stories such as the adventurer calling the loved ones on the satellite phone before their inevitable deaths make for good drama, but don't change the fact that it's horribly unnecessary risk for someone with a family...)

    If I'm were well enough off to have $65,000 to plunk into a hobby, I think one of my main goals in life would be to stay *alive* and enjoy it :) ("Okay, I made it, I'm succesful; now let's not screw it up and die!")

    I have somewhat more sympathy for folks like Steve Fosset who took fairly calculated risks with a lot of safety measures included (and ironically didn't die doing anything particularly dangerous), and potentially pushed some technological research in his quests.

    To wax philisophical for a moment, perhaps it's because there aren't a lot of life-risking activities that can greatly advanced mankind these days, as in the days of the explorers. Maybe the same mentality of Columbus (or insert-your-favorite-explorer-here), just doesn't have a satisfying role in today's society, where all the exploring is pretty much done, so these people find these substitue quests to pacify them. ("Deep space astronaut" might be a good calling for these folks, but there's not exactly a lot of openings.)

    Or perhaps I just personally don't see the lure of mountain climbing; it's likely other folks I admire, such as more modern transatlantic sailing adventurers (e.g. Joshua Solcum) could be considered to be in the same class, achieving things that tested their limits, but in the end didn't really advance mankind, other than providng some great tales. (See "Sailing around the world alone.")

    (Even more off-topic, for a bizarre story about business/financial/PR pressures for a sailing circumnavigation, and the ensuing cheating and resulting insanity, check out Deep Water. A fascinating story, and good documentary on it.)

    To each his own, I guess. Intentionally risking hypoxia doesn't sound like that much of a kick to me (although I hear hypoxia is fun, for the few minutes before you die).

    --
    Love many, trust a few, do harm to none.
    1. Re:Stories of challenge... by tabrnaker · · Score: 1
      Sometimes you have to advance the individual man to further advance mankind.

      I always thought climbing mountains was a bit useless. Then i went to Nepal :)

      Haha, of course i didn't climb Everest. haha, i had altitude symptoms just from landing at Kathmandu!!(~800m). A few days later, i had trouble walking 10m at 1200m without huffing and puffing. haha, a little embarassing as the little kids zoom around you :) However, climbing to 4000m taught me just how much the body can regenerate and adapt. Haha, i used to have trouble walking and doing any sort of physical activity. I wasn't/couldn't participate in phys ed in school, shin splints, arthritis, and couldn't see without glasses.

      Most important thing i learned? Use both lungs, it makes life so much easier. That and try and avoid paralysis from polio vaccines that make it really hard to use both lungs.

  50. why climbers die on mount everest... by Atriqus · · Score: 1

    ...to ensure there's never a shortage of darwin award recipients.

    --
    Hey, look! It's Bono's brother.
  51. Only non-indigenous climbers suffer by shlepp · · Score: 1

    This only effects those who are not used to the climate, the Sherpa trek up and down that mountains as guides etc.. without much effort when compared to the foreigners who attempt to climb.

  52. What? "David Manning" loved it! by Mathinker · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Did you manage to get your share of the class action refund?

    Thanks for bringing yet another episode of Sony sliminess to my attention.

  53. Re:Mod parent up by Cochonou · · Score: 1

    The full PDF of the article is available from the link given by the parent. In spite of the summary given by TFA, it shows that people die primarily from trauma.

  54. It is not the fall that kills you... by gemada · · Score: 1

    it is the sudden stop when you reach the ground.

  55. SlimG by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    There are two reasons for climbers dying on Mount Everest:
    http://www.smbc-comics.com/comics/20081212.gif

  56. None of this is remotely surprising to climbers. by SecurityGuy · · Score: 1

    In fact, it's common knowledge that more fatalities happen on the descent and that HAPE and HACE are the biggest dangers.

    Maybe it's news that someone outside the climbing community actually did a study and confirmed what we've known all along, but there's nothing new here. Move along.

  57. Ok, you've convinced me. by jcr · · Score: 1

    I won't stand on the peak of Everest until there are helicopters that can operate at that altitude.

    -jcr

    --
    The only title of honor that a tyrant can grant is "Enemy of the State."
  58. ... to get to the "other side"? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    ka-ching!

  59. This is *not* news. by Qbertino · · Score: 5, Interesting

    This isn't news at all. Mount Everrest actually is a mountain for sissies, technically speaking. The standard route to the summit is more of an extended hike than an actual climb compared to 'real' mountains such as the Cerro Torre. At sea level it would be a more like a walk in the park, literaly.

    The difficult part with Everest is taking your time to aclimatise - which can take up to half a year. Which most people don't do. Others take O2 with them. Yet O2 only means you won't die inmediately in the death zone if your gear doesn't fail, it doesn't mean making the summit is a sure bet. Most people die on Everest because the lack of O2 gets to their brain and they start doing stupid things. Meaning more stupid things than going up there unprepared in the first place. That's why the standard route is littred with corpses.

    If it were a real mountain that required actual high-profile tech-climbing skills, we'd have much less idiots dying up there, simply because they couldn't reach the death-zone.

    --
    We suffer more in our imagination than in reality. - Seneca
    1. Re:This is *not* news. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Slashdot: not just geek snobs but mountain climbing snobs, too!

    2. Re:This is *not* news. by milkmage · · Score: 1

      what? Cerro Torre is only 10k feet. ONE THIRD the height of Eversest. Everst doesn't even start to get dangerous until about 15k feet (that's a MILE higher than the peak of Cerro Torre). @15k feet, you're only HALF way to the summit. the death zone on Everest STARTS at 26 thousand feet. the summit attempt starts at 1AM, because you have to be out of the death zone by sundown.. yeah. sundown. that's how long it takes to climb the last 6000 feet (summit and back)

    3. Re:This is *not* news. by pyrr · · Score: 1

      I think you may be missing the point the OP was attempting to make, which was the assertion that climbing Everest is not terribly technical and could probably be done by scramblers if not for the treacherous lack of oxygen due to its altitude, whereas Cerro Torre is a more technical climb.

      Clearly, though, the altitude presents a different set of technical challenges, even if the actual climbing component doesn't require much mountaineering skill. It seems like judgment and preparation are the major skill areas required on Everest.

    4. Re:This is *not* news. by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

      This isn't news at all.

      All news is not news, to some narrow group of people.

      --
      My God, it's Full of Source!
      OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
    5. Re:This is *not* news. by snowwrestler · · Score: 1

      The funny thing is that Cerro Torre, while a striking mountain, also has a relatively easy "standard route." That's because an Italian went up there with a compressor drill a few decades ago and installed a bolt ladder up the headwall. Also, it's much more of a straight "rock climb" and less of a "big mountain climb"...K2 is a much better comparison to Everest. Or Makalu. Or Gasherbrum IV. These are big Himalayan-style peaks that take much more technical prowess than Everest.

      Everest should not be discounted though...much of what makes it easy is not the mountain itself, but the infrastructure that the guides install. Without them, summit day on Everest would require traversing a knife-edge ridge and then climbing a 20 foot vertical step, all above 27,000 feet and without a rope. There's a reason it took decades of trying to make the first ascent.

      --
      Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night. Set him on fire, and he's warm for the rest of his life.
  60. Climbing very tall mountains is not a sport. by randyleepublic · · Score: 0

    It is macho foolishness. What if Everest projected out of the atmosphere? Would people try to climb it without a space suit? You are deliberately placing your body into an environment in which it is not capable of surviving, to what? See if it survives anyway? No, I guess it is a little more subtle than that: to see if you can manage your imminent death effectively enough to get to the top and back without dying first. Swell. Death Sport 2000.

    It's like the prisoners at Guantanamo vying with each other for bragging rights on waterboarding records. "I went under 8 times before I started lying!" "That's nothing, I went under 10!" "Noobs! I went under 15 times, and the 15th time, when I came up I spat on Sgt. Duffy!" "You spat on Duffy?!" "Hey, check these scars." "God, I think he's telling the truth!"

    Fortunately people don't think this way about it or it would be *illegal* to climb.

    --
    Social Credit would solve everything...
  61. Altitude + storm = bad? by jlehtira · · Score: 3, Interesting

    It just occurred to me that air pressure depends on two things, altitude AND weather :). Usually during storms the air pressure would drop significantly even on the sea level, and similar could be expected on the mountain. Maybe that time altitude + storm meant lower air pressure than her previous higher altitudes in good weather?

    I climb and study meteorology. You've given me a very nice question to think about :). What you say about edemas is probably very true, but maybe this is an additional reason to take storms extremely seriously?

    1. Re:Altitude + storm = bad? by grolaw · · Score: 1

      Without a doubt. The most well-equipped expeditions now carry an inflatable plastic chamber that can hold a climber at higher partial pressures than his/her present altitude and can be supplemented to 21% O2. A Physician is necessary for use of this device.

  62. Might not just be the hypoxia/edema setting in by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It's not that uncommon for people to push themselves way over the line to do a certain task, and once they're done they just flop over and die.

  63. ask nasa for some space gloves by cheekyboy · · Score: 1

    Surely someone has invented some gloves with oil based veins that pump through your hands and back up under your arm or perhaps with the aid of a battery with solar charger. Is it also possibly to inject some natural fish based derivative anti freeze, or use some chemical based heater.

    Expensive perhaps, but better to be safe, then you can sell it to the next expedition.

    --
    Liberty freedom are no1, not dicks in suits.
    1. Re:ask nasa for some space gloves by LingNoi · · Score: 1

      Yeah, I don't get why you can't have heaters on the palm of your hands leaving your fingers free to climb however ensuring you still have your fingers at the end.

    2. Re:ask nasa for some space gloves by dbIII · · Score: 1
      At least in one case writing on the palms saying "put your gloves back on you oxygen deprived idiot" is the technological solution, but I don't know if even that would work. I've never been in that situation so I'm just going by what's in the book.

      For the other case the writer was left for dead overnight on Everest and still had his gloves and boots on but still got cold enough to lose fingers and toes. He's a legend for coming back down the mountain after his death had been announced.

  64. Think of the handicapped! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

    I think there should be a cable carriage or a vertical tunnel with elevator inside that takes to the top of Mt. Everest.

    Currently there is a discrimination against the ill, disabled or elderly persons, who are not able to visit the summit, because they are unable to climb up there.

    The UN Declaration of Human Rights codifies people have to right to travel where-ever they want. Technology does allow for mechanized transport service for the Mt. Everest, therefore it should be provided, just as wheelchair ramps are prescibed by law for public institutions and shopping malls.

    1. Re:Think of the handicapped! by milkmage · · Score: 1

      Mark Inglis reached the summit. HE HAS NO LEGS. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0883680/

  65. A climber's answer by jlehtira · · Score: 4, Interesting

    A climber intentionally risks many other things, like falling into a crevasse on a glacier, getting caught in a storm on a mountain, etc. I climb, and for me it's very satisfying to manage these risks by making good decisions and surviving in good health from something that is serious business. It's an adventure, and even when it's not a large step for the mankind, it's a kind of personal exploration. Doesn't matter so much if other people charted the glaciers and summits before me, I'm still learning very much about the planet we live on.

    The risk management is not unlike driving a car. While driving fast there's a significant risk of death which we manage. People drive cars even when many die while doing just that. Of course it's much more satisfying to do something a bit less mundane in tremendous surroundings. I don't know why, but after my first trip to Himalayas I've had this calling.. It's not something that existed before that, though.

    You probably shouldn't equate climbing with the Everest so much. People who go to Everest are the types who want to climb the highest mountains - as if that was the superior achievement. And Everest is relatively easy too, it's only challenging because of the height. Most climbers are happier on lower hills. Most climbers never risk hypoxia. And some climbers still climb mountains that have never been climbed by anyone.

    Climbing today might not advance the humanity as a whole very much, but advances still happen. At least the equipment used in climbing and professions who use ropes has developed a great deal during the last decades. It's actually so fast that during my three years of climbing, I'm already seeing technological advances. Also, thanks to the climbers, there's a lot of science done on which knots are the best in saving lives, and which others occasionally fail. This might not get you excited, but it does that to me ;).

    1. Re:A climber's answer by maxume · · Score: 1

      How manageable is the risk on Everest?

      The different death rates for climbers and sherpas at least suggests that a lot of climbers don't get it right.

      --
      Nerd rage is the funniest rage.
    2. Re:A climber's answer by jlehtira · · Score: 1

      How manageable is the risk on Everest?

      The different death rates for climbers and sherpas at least suggests that a lot of climbers don't get it right.

      My own risk management, simplified, is as follows: rope up at any occasion when there's a significant chance of a significant fall. Stop and/or turn around whenever not feeling healthy.

      A lot of climbers don't get it right. Some think it's okay to leave their tent unroped and die from accidental slipping. Some think it's okay to continue even when they experience the first signs of mountain sickness. Some think it's okay to abseil without stopper knots and die when they run out of rope.

      More generally, some think it's okay to be scared - I disagree. Whenever I'm scared, there's a safety issue I'm not focusing on enough and my instincts are telling me about it. If I'm scared about whether a rope will hold me to the rock, I'll make sure it will, or if I can't, find another route.

      My explanation is that people get overly anxious about climbing Everest. They've paid a lot, the monsoon is coming, they might not get another chance. And they're focused on the summit, not the climbing. Climbing is great fun even without summiting. Many a time I hear stories about people really pushing themselves to get to the summit, and once they're there, they feel miserable and their only thought is getting a few pics and going back.

      I think it's a failed climb if I feel like that at the summit. Or anyone else climbing with me.

      That, and for many, Everest is probably the only really high peak they ever attempt. So they might think it's not essential getting it absolutely right, if only they get to the summit and down.

      At least what many climbers do is spend a lot of time learning about other climbers' accidents and sharing their own accident stories and concerns. Very many rather detailed stories can be found online :).

  66. The real question for ./ readers by OricAtmos48K · · Score: 1

    What if we get up to the second floor from the basement ?

  67. Errr... what? by Angostura · · Score: 1

    The big surprise that the data indicate those deaths aren't primarily from avalanches or falling ice, as had long been believed.

    That's a definition of "surprise" of which I have previously been unaware.

  68. Re:None of this is remotely surprising to climbers by ambrosen · · Score: 1

    I thought the article said that HAPE wasn't seen as the danger it was thought to be.

  69. Obligatory Sun Tzu quote by Majin+Bubu · · Score: 1

    On difficult ground, press on.
    On encircled ground, devise strategies.
    On death ground, fight!

    --
    Ander

    @=

  70. well known most high altitude deaths are on decen by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    this is because climbers push on beyond their "turn around time". If you are climbing everest and 200 meters from the top and you hit your turn around time, or the weather turns south, you need to give up. If you are behind schedule and push on, it is likely that you will run out of bottled oxygen on the decent. Everest can be climbed without oxygen, but if you take someone climbing with oxygen and suddenly take that away from them they become extremely fatigued and can barely walk in the death zone, this is because their body is not conditioned to be operating at that altitude without bottled oxygen. Also on the way down you are tired. You may have left high camp at 11:00 PM the night before, and it is probably afternoon by now. It is easy to make a mistake.

  71. Not just Everest... by M-RES · · Score: 1

    I think you'll find that statistically speaking most deaths tend to be on the descent of ANY mountain.

    It's not just a medical condition, but quite often down to general lapses in concentration.

    When you're pushing for the summit you're absolutely focussed on your goal and pay attention to every little detail. Once you've topped out and experienced the elation of making it it's very easy to let your mind relax as you descend, and combined with the tiredness it's more likely you'll make a mistake that can lead to a fall or other accident such as taking the wrong route - this happens to a lot of people on Ben Nevis where the route down isn't so obvious in winter.

  72. Re: +1 Krakauer by TaoPhoenix · · Score: 1

    I read the book.

    In that season the deaths were not really the ones from the article, but people becoming fatally exhausted and making mistakes, then getting unlucky enough for the reaper to seal the deal.

    --
    My first Journal Entry ever, in 8 years! http://slashdot.org/journal/365947/aphelion-scifi-fantasy-horror-poetry-webzine
  73. Why Climbers Die On Mount Everest by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Because they can.

  74. Mod Parent Informative by mpapet · · Score: 1

    Having gotten myself into a bit of altitude sickness hiking up to 14,000 feet too quickly, parent post calls it exactly right. The signs that your body isn't adjusting to the altitude begin hours before the trouble sets in.

    Most of these personalities climbing Everest have made quite a bit of money ignoring warnings/taking risks. They either don't know their bodies well enough, summiting Everest is a catered affair, or intentionally ignore their body's warnings. They are more inclined to die simply because they want the prestige of summiting(sp?) Everest.

    --
    http://www.maxineudall.com/2010/02/should-economists-be-sued-for-malpractice.html
  75. Never Thought You'd Ask. by mpapet · · Score: 2, Informative

    1. "Downhill" is not like skiing or rapelling downhill. 80% down and 20% up makes that 20% downhill *days* worth of extremely hard effort.

    2. Physical issues. Having camped above 10,000 feet, I can tell you the amount of water required for drinking so you don't get dehydrated is crazy. Medium physical efforts at that altitude leave you breathless. Imagine trying to move ~200 lbs dead weight around clothed like the Michelin Man.

    3. Hostile environment. Lack of oxygen, extreme and unpredictable weather, and water and food delivery requirements all add up to a l-o-n-g time up and down the mountain.

    It all adds up quickly to a months-long effort to retrieve a body.

    --
    http://www.maxineudall.com/2010/02/should-economists-be-sued-for-malpractice.html
    1. Re:Never Thought You'd Ask. by zmollusc · · Score: 1

      Ah, having never been up a mountain my mental image is of a very large pyramid/cone with snow on the top. I assumed that it would be a continuous uphill slope. Point taken about dragging dead weight through snow on the level, let alone uphill.

      I take it there are also good reasons why my brilliant idea of hang-gliding down the mountain to reduce oxygen/food requirements is not commonplace :-)

      Regarding point 2, I must confess to no sympathy with the 'medium physical efforts at that altitude leave you breathless' as my extreme lack of fitness leaves me breathless when typing an ellipsis.

      --
      They whose government reduces their essential liberties for temporary security, receive neither liberty nor security.
  76. An elite and exclusive group by PeeAitchPee · · Score: 1

    Some people say it's the men who have walked on the moon. Personally, though, I think that probably the most elite club out there consists of those who have summited all 14 8000m peaks. An even smaller group would be those who have done it without supplemental oxygen.

  77. Why ? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Because it's there ... and so are they.

  78. not surprising by spikeham · · Score: 1

    Though not a hardcore climber, I've summited numerous 14,000+ ft peaks in Colorado.

    The fact that most Everest climbers die from altitude effects while descending is not surprising. Altitude sickness hits gradually and most of them realized they were ill (or their more lucid companions did) and were in the process of trying to get down when they died. At such heights oxygen deprivation kills you before you have time to freeze to death.

    More than falling, exposure, altitude, or any other specific risk, "summit fever" is the single greatest danger of mountaineering. When people are fixated on summiting regardless of conditions (including physical exhaustion) they place themselves at an elevated and unnecessary risk of death. Everest expeditions involving gung-ho newbies who have paid large amounts of money for a single-shot attempt inevitably leads to a high death rate, since these sacrificial victims are both maniacally obsessed with reaching the top and incapable of objectively evaluating the situation.

    Everest climbs should be limited to those who have proven high-altitude mountaineering experience. Guides who profit by leading inexperienced tourists into extreme danger should be villified, especially those who have the gall to come down unscathed while leaving behind the frozen corpses of their clients. They're the ones creating Everest's culture of death.

    - Paul
    http://3.paulhamill.com

  79. "into thin air" by smellsofbikes · · Score: 1

    One of the many things I found interesting about that book was his matter-of-fact description of just how hallucinatory and out-of-touch everyone was, including him. He wrote (as I recall) about being caught in the blizzard and talking to one of the other climbers for twenty minutes, and the next day when he was down lower, realized that the other climber he'd been talking to hadn't been there -- he'd either imagined the entire conversation or he'd been talking to someone completely different than he thought he was speaking to. He had no idea what had actually happened during that time, in other words, and at the time he felt fine, if scared.

    I'm a pilot and I've seen video of people who are deeply hypoxic, and completely unaware of what they're doing. They're talking nonsense or thrashing around, without any signs of consciousness. There is a very creepy video of some people filming themselves on a mountain flight, and going increasingly loopy and losing touch with reality, before the plane crashes into a mountain. They never have a clue that they've all gone completely crazy.

    --
    Nostalgia's not what it used to be.
  80. Thinning the herd? by grikdog · · Score: 1

    Disposable income becomes locked in ice as more overconfident straw dogs flood Discovery channel with tax deductible vacation footage of themselves turning blue on trails blazed with discarded oxygen cylinders, dropping themselves off the Yeti haunted trails into the increasingly commonplace blizzard of high altitude footnotes, Sherpas laughing all the way to their own romantic banks. Heaven is implacable. Heaven does not care.

    --
    ``Tension, apprehension & dissension have begun!'' - Duffy Wyg&, in Alfred Bester's _The Demolished Man_
  81. A way out of the death zone. by GargamelSpaceman · · Score: 1

    Climbers should begin carrying a parachute. I envision a steerable sort. That way, when they summit, they need only open their parachute and steer themselves for a quick ride to base camp ( or another low-altitude location if winds are not favorable, they should carry an EPRB too ) before they get the disease.

    Some may say parachute technology is for wusses, but it's extra weight for the sherpas to carry, so it does come with a penalty that makes it less wussy. And climbers don't seem to be averse to using other high tech gear such as O2 tanks, and Gore-Tex ( Probably Gore-Tex is passe nowadays, the pro-climbers prolly wear some new fadbric now. )

    --
    ...
  82. in the spirit of Edmund Hillary by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    In Soviet Tibet, the bugger knocks YOU off!

  83. it's simple... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    because lung physiology told them to.

  84. Altitude, weather...and latitude by snowwrestler · · Score: 1

    The partial pressure of oxygen depends on altitude, weather...and latitude, since the Earth's atmosphere is not evenly thick. It thins toward the poles. I've heard the partial pressure of oxygen on the summit of Denali (~20,000 ft, but near the Arctic Circle) is about the same as the partial pressure of oxygen on the summit of a 24,000 ft peak in the Himalaya (near the equator).

    --
    Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night. Set him on fire, and he's warm for the rest of his life.
  85. Krakauer by snowwrestler · · Score: 1

    Among the climbers I know, Krakauer made his name with Eiger Dreams, which to my recollection did not overly focus on death. And, keep in mind that Krakauer did not go to Everest to cover a tragedy. He went to write an article on what's it's like to be on a guided climb of Everest.

    --
    Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night. Set him on fire, and he's warm for the rest of his life.
    1. Re:Krakauer by grolaw · · Score: 1

      He is a jerk. He is fascinated with death. His latest book is about Pat Tillman - and he is throwing a snit because the publisher wants to edit more than Krakauer wants.

      NO CLIMBER THAT I KNOW THINKS ANYTHING OF Krakauer.

      You want to read about the Eiger - from my library:

      Hiebler, Toni, NORTH FACE IN WINTER, Barrie & Rockcliff, London, 1962; Lippincott, Philadelphia, 1963. An account of the first winter ascent of the north Face.
      Gillman, Peter; Haston, Dougal, EIGER DIRECT, Collins, London, 1966; DIRETTISSIMA, THE EIGER ASSAULT, Harper & Row, New York, 1966. An account of the first ascent of the Harlin Route on the north face. (The book by the German team on the climb is entitled EIGER, KAMPF um die DIRETTISSIMA, Chr. Belser Verlag, Stuttgart, 1966.)

      And, The White Spider....

    2. Re:Krakauer by snowwrestler · · Score: 1

      He soloed the Devil's Thumb--nothing to sneeze at. He's not a climber anymore, but he was once.

      Eiger Dreams is a collection of stories, not just about the Eiger. You should give it a chance; it's pretty good. And there's hardly any focus on death IIRC. FWIW I have not read Into the Wild or the Mormon book so I could be missing the jerkiest parts of his career.

      --
      Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night. Set him on fire, and he's warm for the rest of his life.
    3. Re:Krakauer by grolaw · · Score: 1

      That's the problem with solos - nobody to back up your story.

      I have been to one - just one AAC event with Krakauer - and he isn't much more than a book-seller.

    4. Re:Krakauer by snowwrestler · · Score: 1

      I'll tell you what--when you climb the Devil's Thumb you can point out where his description was falsified. That ridge is now generally known as the Krakauer Route. See for example the Hoyt story in 2006 AAJ.

      Not to be a big defender of Krakauer--I don't know him--but I think you're crossing a line. What climber doubts another climber just because he doesn't like his books? Grow up dude. They're just books.

      --
      Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night. Set him on fire, and he's warm for the rest of his life.
    5. Re:Krakauer by grolaw · · Score: 1

      I've met him. He makes Reinhold Meissner seem humble. He also has been there for death on mountains (albeit, not his brother) and makes money from tragedy.

      I've climbed most 14'ers in the US (BTW The Devils Thumb has no apostrophe). I've also done the Mooses Tooth. That's not a trivial Alaskan climb.

      My name is in the summit registers - Krakauer's isn't. Why not?
      Go back and read Summit or Off Belay! (long out of print) and you will find many others who question Krakauer.

    6. Re:Krakauer by snowwrestler · · Score: 1

      AAJ uses the apostrophe (I'm looking right at it).

      My Score: -1 Pedantic :-)

      Congrats on the Moose's Tooth, that is far more hardcore than any climb I've done. But I've pretty much given up climbing for whitewater kayaking. The boating is way better in DC than the climbing.

      cheers

      --
      Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night. Set him on fire, and he's warm for the rest of his life.
    7. Re:Krakauer by grolaw · · Score: 1

      Your climbing opportunities in North Carolina are excellent. Watch the current Last of the Mohicans for some excellent views of Chimney Rock State Park.

      Check out the Wikipedia entry on that apostrophe....

  86. Oxygen bottles by snowwrestler · · Score: 1

    I think they're certified for more than one use. They're just heavy, and not needed for the (already very dangerous) descent. So climbers just leave them. It's not unknown for climbers to leave their tents either; if they've been up there any amount of time, the UV has cooked the nylon too much to be used again anyway.

    Of all the various problems surrounding Everest, personally I put the left-behind bottles pretty low on my list. They are inert, frozen, and basically there is no ecosystem in the death zone for them to harm anyway. And the only people who are going to see them are other climbers, most of whom are carrying/leaving their own oxygen bottles.

    --
    Build a man a fire, he's warm for one night. Set him on fire, and he's warm for the rest of his life.
  87. Re:The big surprise that the data indicate those d by Bonobo_Unknown · · Score: 1

    There are other deadly effects of altitude, when you get too high you're no longer able to have a decent hot cup of coffee in the morning, no matter how long you boil the water for...

    --
    We don't believe in radical loony monotheistic religions from the middle east -- we're Christians.