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Making Your Own Board/Card Games?

wrinkledshirt writes "I've been growing interested in creating my own set of board games, and I was wondering if people knew of good resources for how to go about doing this? I'd love to know information on good places to get cards printed, manuals printed, plastic pieces manufactured, boards created, that sort of thing. Many companies online offer to do all of these things for you, but I'm considering doing it all separately in order to cut costs. Since I've never done this before, I'm also wondering about sources that'll give you good ideas to consider as well as gameplay pitfalls to avoid. I know google is my friend, but I'm also wondering about people's experiences in trying to do this stuff on their own...?"

280 comments

  1. I believe by Pingular · · Score: 1, Interesting

    Daf from #bhamcs on Quakenet ( irc.quakenet.org ) is currently making a board game, try him :)

    --

    When anger rises, think of the consequences.
    Confucius (551 BC - 479 BC)
    1. Re:I believe by Starrdanzr · · Score: 1

      I really have no clue how to reply directly to the original article. Thus, I'm piggybacking :)

      My SO is in the midst of creating a toy. Not the same route as games, but similar

      Do not let yourself get conned into one of those invention promotion (for ex. Invent tech) companies. They are a waste of money and some of them are frauds. Check out a few websites that will give you some basics of how to get going in this business

      Inventor's Headquarters is a good place to start to explain the various processes involved in invention and common pitfalls.
      Randy, the website owner, also has a link to Mattel's toy scout and a few reputable agencies on his Toy Page

      There are some aspects of game and toy inventing that are unique to that field. There is even a Toy Industry Association!
      I found an introductory article by William Maclean, a board game inventor to be quite good advice!
      About dot com has a game inventors area. She has an area specific to Board Games. Lots of luck to ya! :)

  2. Follow the Star Trek method by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Funny

    1. Get a popular show
    2. Have a popular character on the show make up some rules for a game (they don't need to make sense)
    3. Have determined fans make up rules that fit the above specified rules, yet provide some logical game play
    4. You now have your own card game

    1. Re:Follow the Star Trek method by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny

      5. Profit!!!

  3. Try Kinko's by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative

    I'm pretty sure they can print everything you want except a board.

    And if you get your board printed on nice glossy heavy duty paper, that should be hard to make (so long as you know how to spread glue out evenly and thinly).

    1. Re:Try Kinko's by silentbozo · · Score: 4, Informative

      so long as you know how to spread glue out evenly and thinly

      That's what spraymount is for. They sell it in spray cans, very popular with architecture and arts students on a super-tight deadline, who need to back a lot of paper very fast. Another alternative is to study some bookbinding techniques - you can use flour and pva glues with heavy card stock and thin leathers if you want an upscale look.

      If you want your board to last, consider laminating the printed portion before mounting it to the backing board.

    2. Re:Try Kinko's by applef00 · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Seriously, no joke. I've done some amazing stuff at Kinko's with heavy paper, a color copier, and lots of glue. Heck, I signed five artists to my repping business on the strength of a Kinko's-produced promotional materials.

    3. Re:Try Kinko's by Trejkaz · · Score: 1

      You can get sheets of double-sided sticky stuff from some newsagents too.

      The only real issue with making the board is if you want it to fold. I imagine then you would have to fit the printed sheet to the base and make sure it works both where it is, and folded. Notice that the seam in the board is the first thing to fuck up even with a good Monopoly set. :-/

      --
      Karma: It's all a bunch of tree-huggin' hippy crap!
    4. Re:Try Kinko's by supabeast! · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Kinko's is not a cheap option for printing up gaming items. The only thing kinko's does cheaply is bulk, high-speed copying. Everything else is just services sold at premium prices to people who aren't having enough done to enlist a print shop.

    5. Re:Try Kinko's by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Or you could go old school and do some woodwork. Lots of really old games were wood because it's durable and was once more available than molded plastic. Plus you get to paint and finish it.

    6. Re:Try Kinko's by alpha713 · · Score: 1

      A better method of making a draft board game is simply to find some white paint (or the like) and clear an already existing board game.This may not be useful for production purposes but if you are just mucking about at home with making some board games then it saves the trouble of actually creating a realistic board.

      One of the best board games that I have ever played, was made by my mum (mom). She is a school teacher and so is good at that kind of thing. She used a 1 Metre by 1 Metre (i think) piece of ply board and started from there. The figures that were used came from plastic figurine sets, the ones where the figures are about 3 cm/1 inch tall.It was a pirate game so I think she found some pirate ones. But there should be some for most types of games. Think warhammer/warhammer 40k

      The track for the players to follow was sketched onto the board and later put on with a black felt tip. The islands and the like were in the first version painted on, but a later version sported paper mache (probably spelt wrong).Most inkjet printers can print on thin cardboard, so making up your cards shouldn't be to much trouble.

      The game was not very portable, but when put on the kitchen table or lounge room floor, very very playable. Once you have designed your board it is simply a matter of getting a group of friends to sit down and test the game with.

    7. Re:Try Kinko's by Squonk01 · · Score: 1

      A friend of mine (honest) who was once a manager at Kinko's explained their prices are set so that each copy-job could be performed twice and remain profitable. The assumption was that the Kinko's employees (sorry, "team members") would probably screw up the request the first time.

  4. If you'd like to check out chesslike games by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    try www.chessvariants.com and www.zillionsofgames.com

  5. Here's what to do by Apreche · · Score: 4, Informative

    Making board games is like making books or video games. First you design the game and make it quality. Manufacture a few prototypes of the game. You can do this on your own with cardboard and an injet printer. If the game is quality get it published. There are a lot of board game publishers that will buy your game if it is quality. You can go all the way from Looney Labs (Fluxx and Nanofictionary) to Rio Grande (El Grande, Puerto Rico) to Milton Bradley (Hasbro, right?) If you don't want to publish your game commercialy (couldn't imagine why not) you will need to contact a professional printer. If you hadn't guessed that costs big money.

    --
    The GeekNights podcast is going strong. Listen!
    1. Re:Here's what to do by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Over here, we just get really drunk make anything into a drinking game. One time we even played scrabble (well junior scrabble) with steel reserve.
      Thats the gist!

    2. Re:Here's what to do by akaina · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I think we're talking more about homebrew board games, as in homebrew beer - not something you want Miller to start producing for you - just something of great quality for you to enjoy with good company.

      --
      Remembering that you are going to die is the best way I know to avoid the trap of thinking you have something to lose.
    3. Re:Here's what to do by gabec · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Right. A game publisher is more interested in playability and fun than looks anyway. Take Magic: The Gathering as an example. The developer of the game had a bunch of index cards with little photos taped on, but presentation aside, the game's playability shone through and a couple years later it's a phenomenon. :/

    4. Re:Here's what to do by famebait · · Score: 1

      If so, go for the unabashedly homemade look: just use your inkjet, normal art supplies, some sticky foil, and cernit or something for modeling peieces by hand (great fun BTW).

      --
      sudo ergo sum
    5. Re:Here's what to do by jtj608 · · Score: 1

      Well, these three companies are bad examples. Looney Labs only produces games by Andrew Looney and his friends. So, you'll have to move to Maryland and work on becoming a friend of Andy. Rio Grande exists to print English versions of European boardgames. I wouldn't say that Jay would never publish your game, but he's running a business by himself and probably doesn't have time to look at "over the transom" submissions. Hasbro will throw away your "over the transom" submission sight unseen, to avoid any legal problems. You'd better have an agent and past credits, or work on the staff of Hasbro to get published there.

    6. Re:Here's what to do by jtj608 · · Score: 1

      Also, Magic: the Gathering was commissioned. Peter Adkison asked Richard Garfield for a game that could be played in 30 minutes by two people in line at a convention after Richard Garfield had submitted Roborally. Of course, the submission did not quite fulfill requirements, but as they say, "The gameplay shone through." In this case, M: tG was not unsolicited, but it was the result of an unsolicited submission.

    7. Re:Here's what to do by JasonAsbahr · · Score: 1

      So who _would_ you go to?

    8. Re:Here's what to do by jtj608 · · Score: 1

      I guess I would start going to game conventions, where vendors display their wares, and try to get to know some of these people. Gen Con in Indianapolis in late July/early August and Origins in Columbus, OH in late June are the two biggest, and there are many regional conventions that may be worthwhile as well. Get to know the companies and people. Networking and market research.

  6. Ideas by grub · · Score: 3, Funny


    I've had an idea for a few years I'm getting ready to set up:

    Have a board in which people move their pieces (say.. a hat, train, etc) around a board with street names. Let the users buy the squares (or "properties") and build houses and hotels on them. If another user lands on the property then the owner can charge rent. Ohh... this just popped into my head, have a corner square labelled "GO" and give each user $200 when they pass it.

    I'm going to be a fucking millionaire over this one!

    --
    Trolling is a art,
    1. Re:Ideas by cryms0n · · Score: 0

      Also, include a hot cocoa sampler box with every purchase!

    2. Re:Ideas by stefanlasiewski · · Score: 1

      I'm going to be a fucking millionaire over this one!

      You're wasting you time! You'll never make a million dollars off of this game. You should just sell the game to Parker Brothers for $200 and be done with it.

      --
      "Can of worms? The can is open... the worms are everywhere."
    3. Re:Ideas by t0qer · · Score: 4, Funny

      Dude I got an idea that will totally blow yours away (warning, office space reference coming)

      See I want to make this mat, and printed on the map will be different "conclusions" You lay the map down, and you jump as far as you can. Depenending on how far you jump, determines your conclusion.

      I call it, jumping to conclusions.

    4. Re:Ideas by KoolDude · · Score: 1


      I've had an idea for a few years I'm getting ready to set up:

      Have a board in which people move their pieces (say.. a hat, train, etc) around a board with street names. Let the users buy the squares (or "properties") and build houses and hotels on them. If another user lands on the property then the owner can charge rent. Ohh... this just popped into my head, have a corner square labelled "GO" and give each user $200 when they pass it.

      Great idea! To attract more gamers, I suggest we change the "GO" square to the more familiar "Start" and name this game as Windows' Secret.

      --
      getSexySig(); /* returns sexy signature */
    5. Re:Ideas by D-Cypell · · Score: 1

      I just came up with the perfect name for your new game, unfortunatly the name that I thought of is already a registered trademark of Microsoft Corperation.

    6. Re:Ideas by timeOday · · Score: 1
      I'm going to be a fucking millionaire over this one!
      Maybe, if you count little yellow $100 bills.
    7. Re:Ideas by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Aww, the warning totally killed it :-(

    8. Re:Ideas by gnu-generation-one · · Score: 1

      "I'm going to be a fucking millionaire over this one!"

      Or a monopolist.

    9. Re:Ideas by ahudson · · Score: 1

      That is the worse idea I've ever heard in my life, Tom. -Michael Bolton

    10. Re:Ideas by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Damn, this meme has hit /. already and I'm not entirely sure where it started up on Fark (presuming it DID start on Fark in the first place)...

      Also, as memes go, it's crap.

    11. Re:Ideas by User+956 · · Score: 1

      Jumping to Conclusions?
      After you jump, do you have to swim back?

      --
      The theory of relativity doesn't work right in Arkansas.
    12. Re:Ideas by Bill_Royle · · Score: 1

      Yes, terrible. That is a terrible idea.

    13. Re:Ideas by assemblyline · · Score: 1

      Even better. A game called "Jump To Conclusions" In this game you have a mat with conclusions printed on it, and on your turn you stand in the middle, and Jump to them.

    14. Re:Ideas by assemblyline · · Score: 1

      Whoops, should have lowered my mod filter a little bit to see if my post had been beaten. And it had. Sorry

    15. Re:Ideas by hesiod · · Score: 1

      > I just came up with the perfect name for your new game [...] a registered trademark of Microsoft Corperation.

      You wanted to call it Clippy? That's stupid.

  7. Play on your own first. by Dlugar · · Score: 5, Informative

    It's really simple to grab together pieces from other board games you have lying around the house, sketch out a quick board on some simple paper, and try playing the game with a few friends. I've done this many times, and it helps you see what sort of game-play is fun and interesting, and what's not really, before you go to the trouble of making a more permanent set of cards/plastic pieces/game board. If you really do come up with a winner you think you can sell, I suppose that's the time you can go looking around for companies to manufacture it for you. And I think at that point you'd be better off going to a game company who knows what they're doing, rather than trying to farm out production to various different individual companies to save a buck, and then try to sell the game yourself.

    But really: a large piece of paper, a collection of plastic pieces from various board games, some dice, and a few cards can provide for many, many hours of fun and entertainment. You're limited only by your imagination.

    Dlugar

    --
    Computer Go: Writing Software to Play the Ancient Game of Go
    1. Re:Play on your own first. by aheath · · Score: 5, Informative

      National Public Radio had a 1 hour show about the history of Parker Brothers. Your suggestion sounds very similar to how Parker Brothers was started. "Parker Brothers got its start in the 1880s, when a 16-year-old George Parker, who loved playing games and had a knack for selling, tried to earn a few bucks on a card game he created called Banking. That was the start of Parker Brothers, which gave us Ping Pong, Sorry and Monopoly. Tonight, On Point: How Parker Brothers rose to the top of the game board." The show is available on-line. The guest was "Philip Orbanes, President of Winning Moves Games in Danvers, Massachusetts and author of "The Monopoly Companion." His newest book is "The Game Makers: The Story of Parker Brothers from Tiddledy Winks to Trivial Pursuit.""

    2. Re:Play on your own first. by xjimhb · · Score: 1

      Did something like this many years ago ... it's amazing how easy it is to come up with a real bomb. My friends and I were hooked on Monopoly, and one friend's brother had tried a variant that didn't work too well, so I figured I'd try it.

      First try, code-named "Monolopy", had a second loop inside the first, going the other way, and you changed loops by landing on a corner, or a few new Chance/CommChest cards. Just pasted a heavy piece of paper, hand-drawn, in the center of a regular Monopoly board. Didn't work, with a shorter inner loop the probabilities meant you spent almost all your time on the normal outer loop ... back to the drawing board!

      Second try, threatened to go on so long we called it "Monotony", was again done on heavy paper by hand and covered an entire 30x30 card table. Used three dice, two for distance and one a different color to select right (even) or left (odd) any time there was a choice ... paths wandered every which way, there was even a traffic circle in the center, if you threw "left" you kept going around and around, had to throw "right" to get out. There were stores where you had to buy something unless you had a "Browse" card. There was even a little "Shopping Center" loop (looked suspiciously like the paths on a "Careers" board).

      I think we played it about twice and gave up. But I've often had the idea of doing a computer version ... it would have to be strictly non-commercial, I hear Parker Brother's lawyers are more vicious than the pieces in Wizard's Chess.

      Never even thought about producing anything other than the hand-drawn version, way back then (way, way pre-PC)the task of producing something commercial were far more daunting.

    3. Re:Play on your own first. by po8 · · Score: 2, Informative

      Before you believe everything Parker Bros tells you, you might want to check out a revised history of Monopoly by the inventor of Anti-Monopoly. An excerpt on the site from a US Supreme Court ruling in the matter suggests that the game is actually 100% pirated.

    4. Re:Play on your own first. by DragonMagic · · Score: 1

      In case you're really interested, Cheapass Games http://www.cheapass.com/ have a system where they sell you the basic parts of a game, like just the rules, or the rules and a cheap gameboard, etc., and expect you to get pawns, dice, chips, etc., from other games.

      In case you don't have any others, or don't want to scavenge them for pieces, they sell an assortment of playing pieces and miscellaneous parts for doing this. If you want to design your own game and don't want to ruin any of your others, pick up a couple of these for all the parts you could need.

      --

      Human nature is the same everywhere; the modes only are different. -- Earl of Chesterfield
    5. Re:Play on your own first. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      "and a few cards"

      If your game takes more than a few cards, go to
      a regular (not PIP, Kinko's, etc). They will
      often just give you a stack of misprinted business
      cards. Or if you are into a more advanced stage
      of design, they will often cut you a stack of
      card-stock for a couple of bucks.

      Since they are cutting it off of leftovers from
      an earlier run, it costs them nothing but the
      time to put the stack in the cutter and chop it.

  8. RiSK! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Make your own Risk board :)

    My girlfriend made one, even made an army by cutting a piece of paper in ultra small squares and writing numbers on it. I mean just show your creative side!

    1. Re:RISK! by Cyno01 · · Score: 1

      Use risk pieces and rules, but make your own board. Use a US map and go by states, or any other sort of map with about 40 some sections.note:a standard risk board has 42 territories, 48 states works well, but less border strategy, also for continents, north east, south, south west, midwest, west coast and northwest, i think you get the idea...

      --
      "Sic Semper Tyrannosaurus Rex."
    2. Re:RISK! by shaitand · · Score: 1

      Better yet use your old AD&D world and make the different color pieces correspond to races that are relevant.

    3. Re:RiSK! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      God I hate that game. Axis and Allies is so much better. In Risk you can pretty much count on your strategy going down the toilet because of crappy dice rolls. At least in A&A, that can be mitigated by choosing the right units.

  9. The Slashdot Game by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I want to play the Slashdot board game. Someone post a link and you try to look at that link before the server is killed.

    1. Re:The Slashdot Game by flewp · · Score: 1

      Do you also get more points based on how close you are to a FP?

      --
      WWJD.... for a Klondike bar?
    2. Re:The Slashdot Game by CharterTerminal · · Score: 1

      Any player who rolls snake-eyes has to draw an "AC URL" card and flip it over (ever so carefully, to spare the other players trauma). If you're lucky, it's an Amazon referral link. More likely, it isn't.

  10. do it yourself! by ghettoreb · · Score: 5, Funny
    ok, looking through recent /. posts:
    • a guy made a USB menorah
    • a guy made a web interface to 4,000 xmas lights and a rotating camera w/ pan & zoom
    • guys are making spacecraft in garages by hand for xprize
    • ??? [and etc]
    And you are telling me you can't print your own manual and make your own little plastic figures? SHAME ON YOU!
    1. Re:do it yourself! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      • profit!
    2. Re:do it yourself! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      That's hardly fair. Publishing your own game involves originality. All the examples you cite are simply derivative of other people's efforts. Can you say, "standing on the shoulders of giants."

    3. Re:do it yourself! by billybob2001 · · Score: 1

      You should be making one of these.

      You might be able to figure how to implement some simple game or other, but hopefully, by the time you've finished building it, the holidays will be over anyways.

  11. Check your phonebook by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Informative
    • It's quite possible you've got a printer in the neighborhood without having realized it. Depending on the type of shop you could get most of your needs met there -- manual, cards, playing board, even the container.
    • For playing pieces, wood adds a touch of class that plastic can't match; check your local craft store and see what kinds of things they've got that you can glue together. You can do just about anything with a source of wood and a Dremel.
    • Another possibility for the playing board is to design your board on the computer and print it to an iron-on transfer, then iron that on to the cardboard. Or you could make a series of stencils you can spray-paint through (one for each color) for mass production.
    • Use dice. They're cheap and plentiful.
    Good luck. This sounds like it could be a rewarding hobby.
    1. Re:Check your phonebook by po8 · · Score: 5, Informative

      As someone who is just putting the finishing touches on the production of a homemade game I have put together for Christmas gifts, I found this topic hilariously timely. I'll second some of parent's ideas.

      About a year ago, friends and I put together a bunch of copies of an out-of-print board game. We built a mat-board board with a color-printed playfield glued on, made mat-board pieces, got wooden men from the craft store and painted them. A lot of work, but it was a lot of fun, and the results were quite nice. Some recommendations:

      • Craft punches, available at your local craft store, are quite useful.
      • Felt is also quite useful and easy to come by at craft or fabric stores. Pieces that move on a gameboard need felt bottoms.
      • Mat board is the basic board-making material for the hobbyist.
      • Rubber cement is a good glue for this work.
      • Seal things with a coat of oil-based varethane so they don't stain.
      • Parts like sand timers and dice are readily available at game stores.

      For my latest game, an original design, I just needed a Pinochle deck, some Poker chips, and the rules. Much easier to build. Recommendations on game design:

      • Understand some basic game theory, or find a friend who does. Game balance is hard.
      • Don't make the rules too complicated. Everyone loves games they can just pick up and play for the first time.
      • Don't confuse the paint (i.e. the flavor text and pictures, the game setting, etc.) with the game itself. A good setting can be fun, but it has to overlay a game that is good in its own right.
      • There is usually some kind of balance between luck and skill. Some people won't play pure skill games. Almost no one will play pure luck games, except for money.
      • Playtest, playtest, playtest.

      Above all, have fun.

    2. Re:Check your phonebook by Shadwell · · Score: 2, Informative

      For my latest game, an original design, I just needed a Pinochle deck, some Poker chips, and the rules.

      Check out Cheapass Games. They take a similar approach for their games. They ship you a board and the rules and you provide dice, pieces, etc. They also provide full packages of dice and pieces.

    3. Re:Check your phonebook by p3d0 · · Score: 1
      There is usually some kind of balance between luck and skill. Some people won't play pure skill games. Almost no one will play pure luck games, except for money.
      This is an interesting point I'd like to underscore. There are pure-skill games like Pente that I enjoy a lot, but the trouble with pure-skill games is that a better player virtually always beats a lesser player, making the game seem somewhat futile for the latter. If rank amateurs can win perhaps one in four or five games by luck, then it will be more fun for them.
      --
      Patrick Doyle
      I mod down every jackass who puts his moderation policy in his sig. Oh, wait a sec....
    4. Re:Check your phonebook by kfg · · Score: 1

      Google is great. Google is good. There is no Google but Google.

      But for some things you still want the Yellow Pages.

      Virtual reality still rests on a bedrock of good, old fashioned, real reality. Learn how to cope with it and all things go smoother.

      KFG

    5. Re:Check your phonebook by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Good suggestions above. One thought about those pieces...if you are making pewter or wooden game pieces, make them big enough so that a small child can't choke on them. Or, if you make them small, place a warning on the box or board somewhere. Once you sell this thing to one customer, you have product liability laws working against you (in the US anyway.) Best to pay an attorney for a few hours work to make sure your bases are covered.

  12. History of Monopoly by Skim123 · · Score: 4, Interesting

    Check out http://inventors.about.com/library/weekly/aa121997 .htm. It discusses the interesting history of the game Monopoly. Yes, Monopoly's success made it's "inventor" Charles Darrow a millionaire, but a quite similar game, titled Landlord, was invented nearly 20 years prior.

    --

    I could not justify my existence if I were a turkey farmer. Would I terminate myself? Undoubtably, yes.

    1. Re:History of Monopoly by gabec · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Well, that just proves that the phrase Timing is Everything really holds true. Recall, if you will, world events during the introduction of Monopoly: The Great Depression. People were obsessed with money because they had none. They also had a lot of time to sit around thinking about it because they had no jobs. Thus the insanely long-winded (and successful) Monopoly was born.

  13. 1,000 Blank Cards! by BTWR · · Score: 2, Informative

    1,000 Blank Cards! 1,000 Blank Cards! 1,000 Blank Cards!

    Those who know this game will swear it's the most fun they've ever had! Those who don't... anyone care to let them in on this?

    1. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by Sparr0 · · Score: 4, Funny

      The name of the game is 1000 Blank White Cards. Now, maybe its just as much fun with green cards, but that would be a completely different game :)

    2. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by King_TJ · · Score: 2, Funny

      Is that the deluxe version of "52 card pickup"?

      I never much cared for that game....

    3. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by Davak · · Score: 4, Informative
    4. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by marko123 · · Score: 1

      Ok. I'll play a card now.

      Here it is

      --
      http://pcblues.com - Digits and Wood
    5. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by AeiwiMaster · · Score: 1

      It looks like fun.

      I found this meetup site

    6. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by Coram · · Score: 1

      And here is my following move.

      --
      I say I ain't giving you no tree fiddy you goddamned Loch Ness monster, get yo own goddamned money!
    7. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by marko123 · · Score: 1

      Ouch, you bastard!

      --
      http://pcblues.com - Digits and Wood
    8. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hm... I find Hot Death UNO to be a pretty good beer-n-chips game. There's even a computer game version.

    9. Re:1,000 Blank Cards! by stoops · · Score: 1

      the name is "52 pickup"!

      the point is that you can ask your friend if they wanna play "52 pickup", and having no clue what it is, they'll agree to it.

      if you call it "52 card pickup", it's too obvious, and it won't work.

  14. It's a jump to conclusions mat by esanbock · · Score: 0, Redundant

    It's a mat that let's you JUMP to different CONCLUSIONS written on it.

  15. Manuals, money, paper products: Kinkos by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Kinko's will do wonders for printing up money, manuals, and other paper components...

    Your local hobby shop, in the minutures section, could supply the pieces and dice.

  16. A good source for basic game pieces is... by Biljrat · · Score: 5, Informative

    find your local (if you have one) school teacher supply store. They have all kinds of game tokens, dice, spinners & what-have-yous. A good paper store is handy for getting the game board backing.

    I print the game boards on multiple sheets on a colour printer, glue them to the backing and then laminate them a the local copy station.

    This works for simple board games for her grade 1-3 students. Should work fine for your prototyping stages. Custom plastic is going to cost you, though. You might want to look into paperboard cut outs if you want to make and distribute it yourself.

    1. Re:A good source for basic game pieces is... by deepvoid · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Injection molding can be done at home on the cheap. All you need is plaster of paris, molding wax, tools for shaping your models, a microwave oven, styrofoam cups, and some acetone, and you can make just about any plastic part. Of course you also need a smidgen of creativity, and enough common sense to know that the acetone NEVER goes into the microwave.

      --
      Fast machines, powerfull AI, impulsive invention,... All I lack is a good espresso machine!
  17. Aww, geez Tom. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 3, Funny

    Tom: The guy made a million dollars! Y'know, I had an idea like that once.

    Peter: Really? What was it, Tom?

    Tom: Well, all right. It was a Jump to Conclusions mat. You see, it would be this mat that you would put on the floor and it would have different conclusions written on it that you could jump to.

    Michael: That is the worse idea I've ever heard in my life, Tom.

    Samir: Yes, it is horrible.

    Tom: Ah, look. I, I gotta get outta here. I'll see you guys later, if I still have a job.

    *snicker*

  18. Pfft by Shky · · Score: 1

    Rules are for sissies.

    --
    CC Licensed Serialized Story and Podcast: Ingenioustries
  19. How to.... by mbstone · · Score: 1, Insightful

    1. Involve a patent/IP lawyer from the outset so's you don't get ripped off.

    2. I would self-publish and use places like WOTC, etc. only as distribution channels. The principles that apply to self-publishing of books (see "The Self-Publishing Manual") apply more or less equally.

    3. There are a number of Indian co's that make boxes, inserts, print cards, etc. But I would use them only in a way that you don't get pirated, e.g. for game pieces or other stuff that disclose the game sufficiently to allow piracy. I would use one or more local printers to do specific items such as cards, boards etc.

    4. All the above presupposes you have a good idea that does not infringe some existing product or copyrighted, etc. work.

    1. Re:How to.... by nametaken · · Score: 1

      And make certain to remove all instances of the letters
      "S", "C", and "O" in the manual or play cards. Just to be on the safe side.

    2. Re:How to.... by JM+Apocalypse · · Score: 1
      --

      - - - - - - -
      Orppf urp mf y.ppcxn. yflcbi otcnnov C am yflcbi yr n.apb Ekrpatv (Dvorak -> Qwerty)
    3. Re:How to.... by Allen+Varney · · Score: 4, Informative

      1. Involve a patent/IP lawyer from the outset so's you don't get ripped off.

      I have a mod point left, but there's no rating for "Amateurish Bad Advice." I often hear this paranoia about IP theft from unpublished writers, but in my 19 years as a professional game designer in paper and computer games, I've never seen any IP theft of any kind. It's a combination of (a) small stakes (at least in the paper game business); (b) wide reliance on work-for-hire contracts that let a publisher buy all rights anyway, legally; (c) a tight, clubby industry in which a bad rep would get around instantly; (d) generally small publishers who can as little afford a legal battle as you or I. Etc. If you think a printer has time or bandwidth to pirate game ideas, think again.

      As for "use places like WOTC, etc. as distribution channels" -- maybe you're confusing publishers (Wizards of the Coast et al) with distributors (Alliance, Diamond, et al), or maybe you're thinking of the Wizards retail stores. But in any case, this is misstated advice. A small publisher makes distribution agreements with regional distributors or, for very marginal operations, publishes in .PDF form for download from online sites such as the highly regarded RPGNow.

      A prospective publisher would do well to attend one of the big gaming conventions, like Origins, Gen Con, Toy Fair, or the GAMA trade show in the US, or the Essen fair in Germany -- the world's largest game show. Ask around, get the basics. It's not hard, and the advice will be a lot better quality than you'll get on Slashdot.

  20. Use whatever... by Cenotaph · · Score: 5, Informative

    One of the guys I work with does game design as a hobby. (Joe Huber, first published game Scream Machine by Jolly Roger Games) He buys poker decks in bulk from BJs and prints out stickers that cover the face of the cards. If the game uses a board, he usually just hand draws one on card stock. He's also purchased parts from the local science museum or used parts from widely available board games, i.e. money/markers from Monopoly, etc.

    It should be noted that these are prototypes and he's usually not making more than one copy of these games.

    --
    "You can put a man through school,
    But you cannot make him think."
    Ben Harper
  21. "standard" piece pack by Teach · · Score: 4, Informative

    I know that part of the fun in your case is creating the board itself, but without a good game behind it, you're wasting your money.

    Consider first creating or purchasing a standard "piecepack", which is to board games what a standard deck of cards is to more specialized card games like Uno. It's a board and standard set of pieces that you can use for dozens or even hundreds of different games.

    The piecepack website has rules for a bunch of different games that can be played with it (nearly eighty at the moment). You can browse through those to see what makes a good game and what doesn't, and even make up your own game and submit it for peer evaluation.

    Then, if your game seems fun and people like it, you could pony up the extra money to have custom boards made.

    Have fun! Families playing card and board games are rare nowadays, so my hat's off to you!

    --
    Graham "Teach" Mitchell, computer science teacher, Leander HS
    1. Re:"standard" piece pack by Cyno01 · · Score: 1
      Families playing board games may be rare, but what about geeks getting real drunk and playing risk or monopoly. disclaimer: i do NOT recomend playing monopoly drunk...

      "hey, how about a quick game before we get to work on the editing, its only 10"

      "sure" ... "man, what time is it?" "6" "shit!*throws board across room*"
      --
      "Sic Semper Tyrannosaurus Rex."
    2. Re:"standard" piece pack by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      "It's a board and standard set of pieces that you can use for dozens or even hundreds of different games.


      I would have said thousands. Millions even... What do you have against piecepack anyway ? If I didn't know any better I would have said you're a member of the BGAA (Board Game Association of America) ;-)
    3. Re:"standard" piece pack by Random832 · · Score: 1

      I would have said thousands. Millions even... What do you have against piecepack anyway?

      Just because he says "dozens or hundreds" instead of "thousands or millions" doesn't mean he has anything against them... given the posted number of 78, i'd say he was more correct than you (sure, there's probably lots more not posted there, but probably more like "hundreds" than "millions")

      --
      We've secretly replaced Slashdot with new Folgers Crystals - let's see if it notices.
    4. Re:"standard" piece pack by Teach · · Score: 1

      Okay, you got me. I am, in fact, a Parker Brother. And, believe it or not, a Has-bro, as we sometimes call ourselves.

      Or, actually, I was referring to the fact that rule sets for nearly a hundred games have already been posted, and probably more exist, but so far there aren't thousands of games already created. Of course, the potential is much greater, just as with a deck of cards.

      Well, I'd better get back to astroturfing for the BGAA.... did you hear about that new LOTR trilogy Monopoly game? I hear it's the most spectacular one ever!

      --
      Graham "Teach" Mitchell, computer science teacher, Leander HS
  22. Get in contact with other independent game makers by spideyct · · Score: 2, Informative

    For example, the guys (and gal) at invisible-city.com have been making their own games for a while now, and I'm sure they'd be happy to give you some advice if you dropped them an email.

  23. easiest and cheapest way... by Lumpy · · Score: 4, Informative

    After you design it and are sure it's both playable and fun.

    Go out and buy several board games that look like it has what you want as an element.

    A board game where the board folds the way you want and is about the right size.

    A board game with the generic pieces that are like what you want.

    finally when you get to wanting cards done, Kinkos can get you game-cards that are the quality of that in a Monoply game. if you want cards that are like a deck of playing cards, I.E. coated, do a search for playing card makers on google.

    finally after you get your graphics laid out for your board, Kinko's again can print it for you and then simply cut/glue it to the donor board, then buy the thin-sticky clear plastic to put over the board surfaces.

    I've had a version of Uno called Glastnost-UNO made (you have to love playing when you have a mutually assured destruction card! and other evil cards like last card multiply by 10 for use on draw cards.) made and we made a nuclear capable version of Risk (including little bomb pieces for nukes to deploy, and Pog style markers for dangerous country/no troops can move) for playing in college back in the 90's and we were able to get it looking 100% professional by having playing cards printed at a US game card house (I had to order 20 decks of cards, but hey the game was a blast!) and modifying existing games parts for my own use.

    --
    Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    1. Re:easiest and cheapest way... by blugu64 · · Score: 1

      Dude! I did somthing quite similar with some friends in high school! never got it professional, but it sure was fun! We had a little thing called the "UN" that each country had to donate troops to, and stuff. We also made a "political" risk, where you had to get elected and stuff (it was really involved and required a calculator)

      --
      "Personal ownership is a hallmark of conservative capitalism. And I don't believe I am entitled to anything that I did n
  24. Generic pieces by ChrisGoodwin · · Score: 1

    You can buy generic plastic pieces (pawns) at any specialty game store.

    --
    Pretend there is some witty statement here.
  25. Making Your Own Cards by Kent+Brewster · · Score: 2, Informative

    I've found that those laser-cut Avery print-your-own business card sheets work nicely for prototype cards. Templates already exist for most major word processors and layout packages, if you don't want to just hand-scrawl 'em.

    1. Re:Making Your Own Cards by Sparr0 · · Score: 1

      business cards, and most 'generic' card stock in general, suck for game cards. they dont shuffle well, they dont feel 'right' in your hands, etc. prototypes, sure, but NEVER manufacture a game with cards like this. thats the one downfall of most of the cheapest games from Cheapass Games, cheap card stock.

    2. Re:Making Your Own Cards by slim · · Score: 1

      You *can* get blank playing cards.

      One source in the UK is Tarquin -- primarily an educational supplier. http://www.tarquin-books.demon.co.uk/books/tarquin mathstime.html

      They (and companies like them) also sell dice in bulk, even blank dice, spinners, pawns etc.

      I don't know the ins and outs of printing onto a single blank card. My Epson inkjet has a special mode for printing cardboard (instead of using the sheet feeder, the card passes in a straight line under the print head), but I've never tried it with anything as small as a playing card.

    3. Re:Making Your Own Cards by Sparr0 · · Score: 1

      If you can get single blank cards then maybe a Photo printer would be good. They are made especially for small things (like photographs). Unfortunately they tend to be used for extremely high quality printing, making prototyping (or even mass producing) cards both tedious and expensive.

  26. Test first by jmichaelg · · Score: 4, Interesting
    Before you bother to produce anything, try your game out on friends and friends of friends. If it falls flat there, you're not out anything. What will more likely happen is, by watching carefully and just listening, you can see things that don't quite work the way you thought they would. So you revise and try again. Keep doing it until you hear people telling you they played the game even when you weren't around to watch them play.

    At that point, it's time to consider whether you want to self-publish or sell to a publisher. If you decide to self-publish, with a good game in hand, you're about 1/5 of the way to making money. Then you worry about production issues like you are now. Producing parts isn't tough unless you have to build molds in which case it can get expensive pretty quick. Boards, manuals, cards, boxes are all cheap to produce. Once you have physical product, you're about 1/3 of the way there. You still have to sell the game to resellers and to do that, you have to convince them that the game will move off their shelves better than what they're currently carrying. That's a tough road and requires a lot of patience and persistence to see it through. To get a feeling for the problem you have to overcome, put yourself in a game store and you see a new game on the shelf. Would you buy it if you know nothing about it? That's what a reseller is going to wonder and it's a fear you'll have to overcome.

    So you finally land your first sale. Except you're not there yet. Somebody like Walmart or Target is going to want to know that you'll take the game back if it dies on the shelf. That means you won't see money from them until the product shows that it's moving and they're ready to reorder. It's when the second and third re-orders start coming in that you know you've got a product that'll sell. Self-publishing is a rush but most of the time you're worrying about keeping product moving more than you're worrying about developing a great game. Been there, done that.

    1. Re:Test first by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      Yes, definitely play the game first before laying down cash. I found the best way to do this is to play the game virtually. I use www.ccgworkshop.com to playtest all my original games. Certainly, I need to program the cards and get it running on their engine, but that is just a bit more development time that goes into making the game great.

      Without the playtesting on ccgworkshop, a few of my games would never be printed. So far, I have only printed a select sub-set of my card game, Sandwich Shop, but with more successes, I will outsource to Yaquinto or other overseas printing. Kinko's is out, they are too expensive... and printing and then steel-rule die cutting was really expensive... I printed up 600 cards as promos for Origins and the cost was more than $0.50 per card...

    2. Re:Test first by JasonAsbahr · · Score: 1

      Which game did you do? And what were the positives and negatives of going with self publishing instead of working with a publisher?

  27. cheapass games by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    check out http://www.cheapass.com/index.html
    They specialize in cheap, low material board/card games. Unfortunately, they are not taking game ideas. But they have some clever designs without the need for fancy pieces or boards.

    1. Re:Cheapass Games by Propaganda13 · · Score: 1

      Cheap ass plug for cheapass.com

      Kill Doctor Lucky (board game) and Falling (card game) are just two of the great games they have to offer.
      They even have US Patent #1. A game where you and others have invented a time machine and race back in time to see who can get the first patent. "If you have a time machine, it really doesn't matter who invented it first. All that matters is who gets to the Patent Office first."

      An important thing to note is that they heavily test these games and get feedback from gamers to improve their games.

      You also might want to check out something like http://www.originsgames.com/ conventions

    2. Re:Cheapass Games by LauraW · · Score: 1
      Kill Doctor Lucky (board game) and Falling (card game) are just two of the great games they have to offer.

      Kill Doctor Lucky is definitely a good one. I haven't tried Falling yet. I'll have to get it now.

    3. Re:Cheapass Games by binarytoaster · · Score: 1

      I was at a convention when Cheapass was just starting out; they had a booth at Norwescon, with a single business card. It had instructions for how to play a tank game using only sugar packets (and maybe the business card; I forget.)

      There was a Denny's across the street. People would actually ask the waitress to hold their order while this game finished out. Others would work the food arriving into the game (plate landing on tank is instant death, or other mechanics)...

      Just like in video games, quality of "graphics" doesn't matter as much as the game itself. :)

    4. Re:Cheapass Games by Bohnanza · · Score: 1

      Brawl and Lightspeed are Cheapass "real-time" card games like Falling but are much better IMO.

      --

      -----

      Sorry, I'm only a 1336 h4x0r.

    5. Re:Cheapass Games by ClioCJS · · Score: 1

      Lightspeed is THE SHIT. And it's only $3.95 from funagain.com (vs $5 from cheapass).

      --
      -Clio
      Karma: Bad (mostly from not giving a fuck)
      Blog: http://clintjcl.wordpress.com
  28. Pitfalls: by Razzak · · Score: 5, Insightful

    Watch for the following pitfalls:

    Parts of the game are worthless.
    There are ways to do the opposite of what you're supposed to and benefit from it.
    If the game includes secrets, there need to be tools to encourage players to keep them.
    The game shouldn't "elminate" players slowly. Yes, I know monopoly does this, but those that are eliminated usually leave/sleep/watch tv and I think that's why games like Pictionary, Scattegories, or Trivial Pursuit are more popular.
    Different, but not revolutionary. Just like most video games, you're better off doing a variation of something most people are familiar with than something new and/or complex.
    You need to be able to sit down, read the rules, and understand the game in under 5 minutes.

    Good luck.

    1. Re:Pitfalls: by Spruce+Moose · · Score: 1

      Does anyone else think this sounds like Slashdot?

    2. Re:Pitfalls: by Chazmati · · Score: 1

      Different, but not revolutionary. Just like most video games, you're better off doing a variation of something most people are familiar with than something new and/or complex.

      Maybe if you're an established game company that doesn't want to take risks. Personally I'm more likely to check out something revolutionary than a rehash of recent games.

      Your other pitfalls sounded right on target, though.

    3. Re:Pitfalls: by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1
      You need to be able to sit down, read the rules, and understand the game in under 5 minutes.
      Actually German board games never take 5 minutes to understand, yet you can blindly pull a random game off of the shelf, & it'll be good. Obviously, certain games gel better with certain temperments, but you can still rest assured that they are good.

      As the other fellow said, your pitfalls are correct. My brother tried making a card game which had too many of those pitfalls.
    4. Re:Pitfalls: by !3ren · · Score: 3, Funny

      Hahaha
      What a game that would be
      i) Player would say something about the news
      ii) Next Player would say the same thing
      iii) Next Player would scream "FIRST POST FAGGORTZ!!!1!111!!!"
      iv) Players would then alternate between incredibly biased views on the subject, unrelated garbage or running jokes.
      v) At the end of each round, the players take turns patting each other on the backs and giving themselves imaginary ranking points, and then calling each other morons.
      vi) The first player to get hired to do so in real life wins.

    5. Re:Pitfalls: by scowling · · Score: 1
      Actually German board games never take 5 minutes to understand


      Puerto Rico is a notable exception. Even at the tournament level, most players of the game use a nearly random strategy.
      --
      www.kitchengeek.com -- Nosh for
    6. Re:Pitfalls: by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1
      Puerto Rico is a notable exception. Even at the tournament level, most players of the game use a nearly random strategy.
      I'm glad that you pointed that out, because my friend just bought that. When you say that it is a notable exception, do you mean that it literally took only 5 minutes to read the instructions & start playing the 1st time?
    7. Re:Pitfalls: by scowling · · Score: 1

      Don't get me wrong -- it's a great game, and it's easy to learn the basic mechanics, but it takes a lot more than five minutes -- or even five full games -- to understand it.

      It's one of those games where four experienced players can easily lose to a new player. The game strategies are often non-intuituve.

      Reviews at http://kumquat.com/cgi-kumquat/funagain/12491. GAMES Magazine did an in-depth article about the non-intuitive nature of the game strategy last year sometime.

      --
      www.kitchengeek.com -- Nosh for
    8. Re:Pitfalls: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hahaha,

      I been playing AH Squad Leader and Advanced Squad Leader for 20 years. Advanced Sqaud Leader will take you a month just to READ the rules. The whole thing is like 500 pages (200 rules, 300 notes and reference material) and about 80 board sections (8" x 22")

      FTWDK Squad Leader depicts WW2 Squad level infantry combat from Europe to Africa to the Pacific in a realistic, simulation manner.

      Sweet.
      JoeR

    9. Re:Pitfalls: by Black+Perl · · Score: 1

      you forgot:

      vii) ???
      viii) PROFIT!!!!

      --
      bp
    10. Re:Pitfalls: by japhmi · · Score: 1

      Give it an unique name, so people can Google it easily.

      --
      "Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys" P. J. O'Rourke
    11. Re:Pitfalls: by Aliencow · · Score: 0

      vi) ??
      Talk about biased...
      emacs) !

    12. Re:Pitfalls: by kermyt · · Score: 1

      The game shouldn't "elminate" players slowly. Yes, I know monopoly does this, but...

      Actually if you RTFR(read the frigging rules) to monopoly you will discover that the game is supposed to end when the first player goes bankrupt, and all players count up total values and compare peni^H^H^H^H bankrolls. many many people drag Monopoly out to the bitter end, I know. however you will find that there are more "house rules" for monopoly than actual printed rules.

      personally the only house rules I use are cash for free parking and $400 for landing on go.

  29. Game/Pieces by Boyceterous · · Score: 1
    Instead of little plastic pieces, here's your chance to save the world by doing something useful with all those AOL CDs!

    If you were truly geek, you could set up a linux box to (virtually) run the AOL install, and the game environment could be something in a virtual AOL world. Players could (virtually) swap files, get email, bypass parental controls, get sued by RIAA, become the target of slashdotting, etc.

    By the way, I've patented this, so be sure to call me if you get it working! I've also patented the concept of prior art, so if someone else has been doing this(or anything else) before I thought of it, you owe me, too.

  30. game inventor's guidbook by Adolphus · · Score: 5, Informative

    at amazon -- great book on the game industry, pointers at publishers and a few do-it-yourself tips...

  31. Why not do it yourself? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    I've made a few expansions to games I own, and
    I've worked on designing new games.

    Here's my $0.02:

    The real question is whether you intend to sell this game to other people.

    If the games are just for you and your friends,
    even if there are several copies, then my recommendation is to make everything using readily available parts:

    color printer +
    full sheet sticker paper +
    various thickness cardstock +
    laminate = cards, tiles, flat playing pieces

    glass beads (buy at Target, not at the
    gaming store, you'll get 10x for
    1/10 the price...) = money, counters, etc.

    wooden pieces from craft shop (usually used
    for decorating dollhouses) + paint =
    any specific shaped pieces you
    need, in a variety of colors.

    word procesor + printer + stapler = rulebook

    good friend who can draw well = illustrator for
    piece/boards

    pieces from other games (spares often
    orderable online) = if alse fails...

    With these, you can usually reach 95% of the quality of most games out there.

    If you really do want to sell your game, then you should really make a few test copies using the means at your disposal (see above), then have your friends test-play the thing to death, to work out the bugs. This is the hardest part of creating a new game, and you should do it before committing resources. The last this you want to do is invest in creating a game that you decide to change later!

    If you have a good game, then you can always redesign the pieces and either manufacture it yourself or sell it to a company that does this regularly. But note: New games typically sell 2,000 to 3,000 copies. The best games may reach 10,000 or more. But those are the only levels of manufacturing where it makes to. Otherwise, you'll most likely spend $1000 to make a few copies of a game that you might not enjoy next year.

  32. Cheapass Games by LauraW · · Score: 4, Informative

    Try what the Cheapass Games people did. Make the board out of big pieces of paper, swipe pieces from other games, print the cards on a laser printer using card stock, and so on. As long as the game itself is entertaining, the looks won't matter thatmuch. Once you're sure it's a good game and people want to play it, then you can think about getting fancy.

  33. Monopoly Creation Program by Ilan+Volow · · Score: 1


    Today, I was thinking about the customized monopoly game that I got last night ("NC Stateopoloy", an NC State version). As all monopoly games follow a general template (a "GO" you pass, utilities, etc), there's gotta be a way to write a program that lets you put in your own customized values for properties, community chests, etc and prints out on 6-8 sheets of high-quality paper a life-size monopoly board (as well as all the cards that you'd need).

    Of course, Parker Brothers law dept would have a field day with such an Open Source project. But one can always dream.

    --
    Ergonomica Auctorita Illico!
    1. Re:Monopoly Creation Program by absurdhero · · Score: 2, Informative

      Well, it already exists. There is a network monopoly server called monopd and there are gtk and qt based clients for it. The game is totally customizable and you can make all sorts of monopoly-like games with it. I don't think you can print out your custom made boards, but you can play them right there on the screen. You can play over the net, so go have fun :)

    2. Re:Monopoly Creation Program by dukeblue219 · · Score: 2, Informative

      There is such a thing called Make Your Ownopoly -- I think my brother or somebody got it for Christmas one year. http://store.thetech.org/mak.html Let's you make your own monopoly board, print out pieces and logos, etc.

      --
      -Ted http://www.freemathhelp.com/
    3. Re:Monopoly Creation Program by Ilan+Volow · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the suggestion. However, I think that part of the fun of monopoly is the tactile nature of the game. There's just something about handling the money the appeals to the greedy bastard in us all.

      --
      Ergonomica Auctorita Illico!
  34. Some info. by EvilMal · · Score: 5, Informative

    My dad owns a one man game company and his web site has a page about this.

    Here.

    His games have made it into Games Magazine's top 100 games list more than once, so he might have some reasonable advice. :]

    1. Re:Some info. by BadmanX · · Score: 1

      Holy Toledo, your DAD designed Wiz-War?!

      Um...that's a good game. Although I never win because all my friends know all the spells and the most effective spell combinations. Still, a very good game.

  35. Oh man that looks awesome. by ShortSpecialBus · · Score: 3, Informative

    I just googled it.

    Here's a site

    It looks like the most fun I will ever have in my life. I need to get a bunch of friends together and play a few games of that.

    --
    //FIXME: Bad .sig
    1. Re:Oh man that looks awesome. by keyshawn632 · · Score: 1

      Been slashdotted :D [damn geocities]

    2. Re:Oh man that looks awesome. by 198348726583297634 · · Score: 1

      It's actually pretty boring. If you like sitting around talking and joking with your friends, do that. This game doesn't really add anything that you won't get in a good conversation, but it does take away from it.


      No, not trolling..yes, I've played it. it gets old quickly.

  36. Re:Do what everyone else does! by anteater424 · · Score: 1

    You've probably left it too late for a Xmas present. Particularly if you want it shipped from China.

  37. Here is how one does it by Twitch@lwf · · Score: 3, Informative

    Tom Jolly, creator of Wiz-War, has some good information.

  38. hexagonal chess by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 5, Interesting

    I came up with the idea (long ago), of a three player chess game based on a board of hexagons instead of squares. I even tried to market it through one of those invention marketing companies (waste of good money.) Then I joined the Air Force and got stationed, of all places, at the Pentagon. One of the first things I did was hop on the Metrorail to Crystal City and do a patent search of chess games based on hexagons instead of squares... I found at least twenty design patents for such games. And since the WWW has come into existence I've found at least 20 more such games. So much for my idea. =P

    Turns out, creating a chess game based on hexagons instead of squares that has the same "flavor" as regular chess is no easy task at all. I am still trying to find the right combination of boards/piece arrangements.

    1. Re:hexagonal chess by Sparr0 · · Score: 1

      Duchess is an awesome chess-based game for 2-6 players. The board is warped so that 'straight' (normal moves) paths actually curve away from the center of the board. It also uses a few custom pieces with weird moves and/or special powers, but you can leave those out if you really want just the originality of a strange board.

    2. Re:hexagonal chess by Snarfangel · · Score: 1

      Check out www.chessvariants.com. They have (almost) every version of square and hexagonal-based chess version you can imagine. If they don't, you can put your game on the site so others can admire it.

      --
      This tagline is copyrighted material. Please send $10 for an affordable replacement.
    3. Re:hexagonal chess by hexatron · · Score: 1

      I designed & wrote hexagonal rogue and it also isn't as much fun as rogue.

  39. Independant game companies by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Check out Loony Labs, I know they would give you some advice www.wunderland.com

  40. LEGO! by mjander · · Score: 1

    Hi,

    Some years ago, my brother and a friend build a table like game with LEGO. The board was very big, and had some "mechanical" features that made it specially funny. Only the cards needed by the game had to be made by hand, but the most important matter was fun of course.
    Indeed we enjoyed it very much for several weeks, but finally, like any LEGO things you build, they get disassembled.

  41. Geeks R Us by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It's located in the hammock district.

  42. Design it and they will come. by flogger · · Score: 2, Insightful

    It all comes down to your game design. Design your game. Write up your rules make your own gamne board by printing out what you design and pasting it on top of a peice of cardboard. Use checkers/bottlecapps for pieces. WHen you design how the game works, looks don't matter.

    What matters: Is it fun? Teach others to play it. Let strangers play it. Sit in a College Student center and give away beer to those that play it. Tweak the game. MAke it more fun. I made a card game that I use in the classes I teach and following the habbit of making everyone play it and provide feedback (What did you like/dislike, I must have clocked thousands of hours of play testing.

    After you have designed the game. Sell it if you are in it for the money. Game companies can market, produce and sell these things more successfully that you will out of your own basement. (Don't take it persoannly, I can't do it either).

    By your question, it seems that you won't mind outsourcing everything. Maybe that will work. But it will be hard to find people to advertise it and stock it on shelves. If you are going to go stricktly mail order, how in the world am I going to find out about your game? Will you place an ad on slashdot, just like the think-geek BB-shooting-tank ad that I am ignoring at this moment?

    Anyway. Good luck!

    --
    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
    "First things first -- but not necessarily in that order"
    -- The Doctor, "Doctor
  43. plenty of people doing that by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

    you checked out Cheapassgames or any of the GamesWorkshop games?

  44. As for the content of the game... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    ...I'd recommend this site. Although I'm hardly an expert at RPG and card/ board game making, I liked this web site.

  45. As for the contents of the game... (2) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    ...I'd recommend this site. Although I'm hardly an expert at RPG and card/ board game making, I liked this web site.

    (2nd post, this time the link works...)

  46. These things aren't too hard. by shaitand · · Score: 4, Informative

    The cards you just need a few heavy duty laser printers for. You need to decide if you need colored stock or colored print. If it's colored print your looking at decidedly higher costs. You can also contact a large printing company, the smallest they'll fire up the presses for is going to cost you about $1000-$5000 but that will get quite a few full color cards on good stock cut and ready to go on a palette.

    Your next tackle is game pieces, where you go for this is a bit trickey, it depends on your pieces. Decide if they are something you can design and make a physical impression of yourself or if you need an artist to do it for you. Either way contact a few plastics companies FIRST to find out what they will require of you. You can find information about completely doing this yourself on the web, what your wanting is information about molds and injection of plastic in molds, the base equiptment to create hundreds of figures can be has for under $1000 but you have materials on top of that, and still have the problem of likely needing an artist for the design and cast of your pieces.

    As for the boards, your not going to be able to run them through printing presses, what you need to do is find the stock for your boards. If you can find a company that will do the boards lock stock and barrel great, you'll likely want to go with that (you will of course need to design or have an artist design your board), otherwise you'll need the stock. If your game can be played on a basic rectangular or square board that doesn't need folded that will make your life easier, otherwise you will have to get someone to play ball or do it yourself. Could get pretty tedious depending on how many of these you intend to produce. Then you'll need to refer back to the presses for stock that will stick the boards, or simply print on cheaper glossy stock and then you can use cold laminate or laquer to adhese them to the physical boards, there are laser printers that are designed for wide stock as well and could be used for when you need it and/or aren't using segmented boards where your image could be chopped up into multiple sheets you could use your regular laser printers for.

    As for the packaging, there are numerous companies that do this relatively inexpensively if you are producing these in any quantity.

    If you go the route of getting the equiptment yourself then of course the advantage is that it can be reused (although running thick card stock on a regular basis through laser printers will result in a fuser change or a new printer every 3-6months, at that point toner flecks will start to appear on prints).

    If you go the route of industrial style companies they front all the equiptment and labor for the task they perform, however they will have minimum runs (it's expensive to fire up a press or make molds). If you go that route remember a couple things, at this level of the game you CAN negotiate, your not walking into a grocery store where there is a price tag on everything and that's how much it costs. Repeat business is great, but sell them on concept of repeat business on other products (later boards), they will generally want to do as much as possible in a single run (since the expense for them is setup to produce your item, and running off a few more later means setting up all over again). It's better to do 5000 now than 1000 each month, and cheaper for them so your talking down will yield more fruit.

    1. Re:These things aren't too hard. by happystink · · Score: 1

      "As for the packaging, there are numerous companies that do this relatively inexpensively if you are producing these in any quantity."

      Vague much?

      Also, doing 5000 up front is better than doing 1000 per month, obviously, that's no big insight. But take a real tip, and in that situation, do 1000 up front to test the concept and marketability, and THEN do the 5000 at once if need be. Setup fees hurt, but over-producing something in a field where products live or die based on consumer whims has a large element of gambling to it, and it's safer to spend the extra few hundred bucks (or whatever the setup fee is, since we are being as vague as humanly possible here) rather than waste thousands and have 4974 copies of your game in your basement for the next 50 years.

      --

      sig:
      See the "..for smart people" banners Wired runs here? Look elsewhere guys.

    2. Re:These things aren't too hard. by shaitand · · Score: 1

      I wasn't aiming to do his research for him. I was aiming at giving enough information that he could do it himself. Obviously he needed that since there is an ask slashdot on it.

      Ask slashdot is about getting the feedback of a mass number of people to compensate for ignorance. NOT about that mass of people doing your shit work for you.

  47. Open Source Board Games by bokmann · · Score: 1, Insightful

    A while ago, I was enthralled with German board games (settlers of Catan and the like). I thoght it would be a cool idea to create a game that used commonly available pieces from other games (monopoly, chess, etc). and release the rules as an 'open source' project... and see what kind of variations it would spawn.

  48. Helpful Hints by couldntthinkupagoodn · · Score: 2, Insightful
    I'm 5 or so years into the making of my board game, so I have a bit of experience under my belt. Here's a few tips:

    • First, expect it to take a while. A long while.

    • Expect many, sometimes drastic, changes to the game. My game started out on a checker board with two players, now it's on hexagons with 4 players and teams.

    • Also, test it a lot. Play it with friends and write down ideas and suggestions. When you've got the final rules of the game, write up instructions, and give the game to a friend & his/her family to play for a week or two. Have them play the game from the instruction without your help, so they can evaluate clarity. Have them write up other questions/comments too.

      For the board, I just printed it out with our home inkjet and pieced the pages together on a piece of corrugated cardboard. For the pieces, I just used pieces from RISK. Everyone has some extra dice somewhere, and for cards, I just used a regular deck of playing cards and associated each card with the card it's supposed to be. (e.g. Aces are a "Gain piece" and 3s of Spades are "Move ahead 3 spaces") I'm planing on sending my game to Milton Bradley or some other company and requesting payment in royalties.

    1. Re:Helpful Hints by Kickstart70 · · Score: 1

      Dude...5 years?

      If I did anything for 5 years I'd be A) sick to death of it and B) pretty much giving up on any chance of selling it.

      Not meaning to disillusion you, but geez...get it moving or just leave it in the basement.

  49. gameplay pitfalls by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Casually know a guy who was once considered promising by game companies, flown to brainstorming symposiums and such quite a few years ago. He grew disgruntled. One goal above all others:

    Make it dumb.

    Remember, the name of the show Paris Hilton starred in will be a crucial packet of American history shortly. Bin Addel, ladel, label, who?

    But it does point out that you want a pleasant group experience for people with 100 IQs and no sense of textbook history, science, or math but considerable time before a TV. Carve that away and you have yok/zonument to gaming.

  50. Board Game Designers Forum by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

    Here's a fine site dedicated to all part of board game creation. It's been going on for over a year now and it's filled with great informations and helpful people.

  51. Educate Yourself: Game Theory by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I would suggest reading up a bit on game theory, the monster work is by John Von Neuman and Oskar Morganstern (I think?) --it is heavy on abstract math in the later chapters but you can skip them--; it explains the basics of game decisions in the early chapters and presents the 72 that Neumann detirmined to exist. A lot of games, particularly computer games (and I know that's not what is proposed but anyway) only really look different--they play alike and have lousy gameplay because they present one or two of the same decision situations over and over. If you analyze classic games you tend to find a variety (4-5+) of different game decisions. [end]

  52. Plastic pieces? by Refrag · · Score: 1

    Why plastic? Why not make wooden pieces?

    --
    I have a website. It's about Macs.
  53. Don't worry about the plastic pieces just yet by Daikiki · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Making a boardgame, or any other type of game, is about 90% playtesting. Once you have a concept for the flow of play and the game elements, you can use pretty much anything to represent them during the testing phase. Don't put too much effort into the bits and pieces though. They'll change often during the development of the game. During development consider using whatever stock elements you have lying around. Playing cards with index stickers on the back are great. A whiteboard makes an easily changeable game board, and beads are great game elements during development and testing.

    When setting about your game design, ask yourself foremost "What do I want the game experience to be like?". Important things to consider are the number of random factors and their effect on the game. Almost any game has random factors of some sortl; chess is a marked exception. The difference lies in the effect the random factors have on the game. Childrens games are often won or lost entirely by the luck of the draw, whereas adults usually require a game won by skill, not luck. In order to achieve this, you'll have to either minimize the random factors to the point where they don't influence the outcome of the game too heavily (drawing 'event' cards in a strategic game, for example), or make them so integral a part of the game that they'll become statistically predictable (production in 'the Settlers of Catan").

    Another important factor to consider in your game design is the gaming experience. Ideally a game will have elements built in that retard the progress of players who are closer to winning. Often, in games involving negotiation, the retarding factor is the players themselves.When given the option, players will often turn down the opportunity to do business with an opponent who may well win the game as a result of his actions. If your game contains no such human element, consider using some form of exponential maintenance to slow the progress and make the playing field more exciting. Failure to do so can result in the winner of a game being decided very early in the game. This makes for an unplleasant gaming experience for all involved.

    Most important rule of game design is KEEP IT SIMPLE. Anybody who's played computer games is used to a complex gaming environment, but such an environment does not translate to board or cardgames. Complicated maintenance tasks should be avoided, as should factors or variables that are complicated to calculate or whose effect on the gamestate isn't instantly clear. Remember, the best games are easy to learn, but hard to master.

    Most of all, enjoy yourself! Designing board and card games is a fun, if challenging pasttime.

    --
    I want the fire back.
  54. Tips from Tom Jolly by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    Look at his Manufacturing or Marketing a Game page. For some games it is good to look for small plastic toys to use as parts.

    Wouldn't it make more sense to ask this question on BoardGameGeek?

  55. Re:MODS ARE ON CRACK by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Pinball is already dead.

  56. All you need is Photoshop and Kinkos by nexu56 · · Score: 1

    We were brainstorming cool stuff to put on a website for our band, RSMinc. Inspired by the Star Wars monopoly set, we decided to come up with our own branded board - RSMinc Monopoly. Just set the resolution really high in Photoshop so you can print it really large, add your band photo to the centre of the board, et voila. We had a contact at Kinkos who printed it up on A2 and laminated it for free. We just use the standard notes from another monopoly set for the cash. You can see this flagrant infringement of intellectual property here.

  57. Why not just skip some steps & program it up.. by ivi · · Score: 1

    Solitar started its life as a card game, &
    now [AFAIK still] comes with every Windows
    op sys under the sun (or doe Asian versions
    come with Mah Jong or the like? They should,
    but I digress...)

    Why not save dread trees, et al. &
    skip the paper stage... go directly
    to digital.

  58. Publish it online by j235 · · Score: 1

    Us over here at http://www.ccgworkshop.com are constantly looking for people to join up. We use a (windows only :'( ) program called gEngine to play card games online, and have recently started porting over board games too. If you have an idea for a board game, get on the forum and post your idea on the forum (under The Primordeal Pool) and we'll see if we like your idea and will get the development materials out to you. We use XML and object pascal/vbscript (eww, i know, but it works) to represent games for use in gengine. Generally any programming knowledge is a big plus :) j235 Creator of the Sempiternity Card Game -- Coming soon to a gEngine near you :)

    1. Re:Publish it online by j235 · · Score: 1

      Sorry about the bad formatting... longtime slashdot reader, first time slashdot poster... gotta use plain old text next time

  59. pray... by Sparr0 · · Score: 1

    that your game doesnt require pieces that HAVE to be fabricated. anyone can give cheap suggestions for generic pieces (just use pawns!), but when youre playing a game where the shape of the pieces matters like say, Tangrams, or Pentominoes, but with non-trivial shapes, then youre in for some hard work before you can even begin playtesting. i just recently came up with an idea for a connection game (think Traxx, Trellis, Visavis, etc) but it needs pieces that I cant fabricate. i am reduced to wandering a hardware store looking for something that just happens to be the right shape.

  60. Linux Trival Pursuit by Camel+Pilot · · Score: 0
    I always thought a trival pursuit game based on Linux would be very popular at least within a certain subculture and obviously there is no lack of material.

    So instead of questions like:

    What year was "Gone with the Wind" released?

    You would have

    What is the name of the command to see the ports open on a (remote) machine?

    and for the 2020 edition you might have questions like

    What company folded (whose CEO was ultimately indited) in 2004 after attempting to hijack the Linux IP?

  61. Card Game Prototyping by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Here's a very quick and cheap way to create cards for prototyping.

    Just get a few boxes of card sleeves from a local hobby store (the kind CCGers use to keep their cards pristine). Put some old unused cards into the sleeves for rigidity. Then just print out your cards on regular printer paper and slip them in front. You don't even really have to cut straight. It might look like crap, but it's great for cycling through a large number of cards in early testing phases of the game.

  62. Re:Monopoly (as in Parker Brothers) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    You have FAILED IT, you fucking gibbon.

  63. Design by colmore · · Score: 4, Interesting

    What kind of game are you making? I'd caution you against book-full-of-charts war/tactics/role-playing type games. They were popular in the 70s, but computers have more or less killed people's patience for that sort of thing.

    The best games can be learned in 30 minutes, have no dice, or a very small chance element, can be easily portable, and play best with about 4 people.

    Settlers of Catan (simple version, no expansion packs) is the best board made in the past thousand years. Chess & Go win in their respective epochs. If you aren't familiar with all three, you should take a pause before doing any further designing.

    Other honorable mentions: Poker (some states allow poker gambling, but not other forms, since it's a game of skill and not luck) Bridge, Diplomacy, Nomic (not a really fun game, but useful as a designer to get you thinking about games)

    Monopoly and Risk are terrible games. They both last about two hours longer than is actually fun. Their strategy is about three inches deep, and they rely *heavily* on luck.

    Also, if you can come up with the next Asshole, the world will be in your debt. We always need more drinking games.

    --
    In Capitalist America, bank robs you!
    1. Re:Design by HeltenHelge · · Score: 1

      The best games can be learned in 30 minutes, have no dice, or a very small chance element,[...] I disagree on the dice/chance part. Remember that a shuffled card deck is large chance element.

    2. Re:Design by rockmanac · · Score: 1

      Also, if you can come up with the next Asshole, the world will be in your debt. We always need more drinking games.

      Please! Somehow I always wind up as the asshole.... (But no one will ever top "Boat Races"... Best Drinking Game EVER!!! (plus it's all skill!))
      -A
    3. Re:Design by colmore · · Score: 1

      What I meant by that was, it shouldn't be Craps, where chance is the *only* element. Most games have chance, but in the good ones, the chance element merely provides a varying stage upon which a game of skill is played.

      That's the reason I mentioned Poker and Bridge. Both of them are heavily chance based, and luck can go so far as to determine the outcome of a single hand. But the best players will win a large majority of hands, because skill still dominates.

      --
      In Capitalist America, bank robs you!
    4. Re:Design by mr.+mulder · · Score: 1

      I beg your pardon. Although Monopoly may appear to be a game largely decided by luck; an adept Monopoly player knows that strategy plays a much larger role.

      Knowing how, when and with whom to partner with in Monopoly can defeat the luckiest of players. Albeit, these such games can last for well over 24-hours, die-hard Monopoly fans understand the importance of strategy and anti-luck tactics that can be employed throughout a game.

    5. Re:Design by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Satan!

  64. Jump to Conclusions.. by villain170 · · Score: 1

    I had an idea. Make a big cloth board that has certain conclusions on it and then have people "jump to" them..
    Either that, or start selling pet rocks or chia pets.

    --

    I am over here... now I am back over here!
  65. Spray Mount is a gift from god. by hurtstotouchfire · · Score: 4, Informative
    Hmm, I just noticed that I instinctively capitalize Spray Mount but not god. Ah well.

    Spray mount is definitly your solution. What you want to do (cost-efficiency-wise) is make the interim drafts of your game using spray mount and a sheet of heavy cardboard. Now by heavy cardboard, I do not mean 'hack the side off of a moving box'. Larger stationary stores sell well-compacted, pre-cut sheets of cardboard. So you get one of those, and you wrap the back in paper (christmas present style, folding in around the corners) and then slather on some spray mount. When you put your front on you want to line up two corners and use a ruler to press it across.

    Sure once you've got a well-designed game that flows, you can probably afford to put out for a pro job, but cards and the board front can be pretty easily made with a nice color printer (go to a copy center if you have a crappy one).

    As far as plastic molds, I'd just hit a second hand store and buy orphaned peices for a while. No use getting nice ones made till you're doing a final draft.

    Note: it's really easy to make pewter or tin figures. I mean you can melt that stuff with a candle. Make a nice mold using plaster, rubber, or fine clay and make some metal peices a la Monopoly or Clue.

  66. Simple method by El+Cabri · · Score: 3, Funny

    1 - Buy the exclusive right for a Harry Potter board game for $500M to J.K.Rowling's publisher
    2 - Replace the street names in Monopoly with Potter stuff .
    3 - Have it manufactured by 12 years olds in the Phillipines (their small hands are good at grabbing the small game pieces and put them in the box)
    4 - Profit.

    I LOVE capitalism.

  67. About funny money for the game (i.e. Monopoly) by ciurana · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Hello,

    This is slightly off-topic but I thought I'd bring it up. A friend gave me the Monopoly 60th Anniversary Edition in 1995. That's the one with the nice board, brass tokens, ivory dice, wooden houses and hotels instead of plastic, etc.

    Sometime in mid-1996 I was discussing the currency exchange between the dollar and the Russian ruble. The person I was with said something like "sounds and looks like Monopoly money" when I showed him a 500 ruble bill. To make a long story short, on my next trip to Russia I exchanged enough US dollars (around $40) to get real bills and coins for almost all the bill denominations for the game. For some (i.e. $1) we use the bills that came with the game.

    Now, when we play Monopoly, we play with real money. That might be an interesting twist if you can find a currency that makes this affordable.

    Cheers!

    E

    --
    http://eugeneciurana.com | http://ciurana.eu
    1. Re:About funny money for the game (i.e. Monopoly) by Jerf · · Score: 1

      In a similar vein, I would someday like to become a millionaire... in some currency or other. Just to be able to say, "Yes, I'm a millionaire."

      (Might also be useful distraction if you get mugged by an idiot. "Why would you want these twenties when you can have these hundred thousands?")

    2. Re:About funny money for the game (i.e. Monopoly) by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Try Romanian "Lei". Last time I was in Bucharest, there were about 30,000 Lei per $US. So, US$33.33 would buy you (use Dr. Evil Voice) "ONE MILLION LEI".

      BTW, for pronunciation, LEI rhymes with "HAY" and "BAY", which is also fun to say, 'cause it sounds naughty!

    3. Re:About funny money for the game (i.e. Monopoly) by dowobeha · · Score: 1
      Go to Turkey. My wife and I and all of our immediate family are now millionaires!

      Check http://www.xe.com for exchange rates...

      --
      I am concerned about any program, any piece of hardware, any treaty, any law that treats me as a consumer, not a citizen
  68. Spray Mount is Evil by sfled · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Spray Mount is to art production as Hummers are to commuting. The amount of shit you are putting into the air is absurd. Use rubber cement and a brush. Yes, it takes five fucking minutes longer. What, your art project didn't take days to design?

    --
    I'm not really a web designer, I just play one on the Internet.
    1. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by blugu64 · · Score: 1

      except that hummers *don't* get you anywhere faster....uless your going to the middle of nowhere....miata all the way

      --
      "Personal ownership is a hallmark of conservative capitalism. And I don't believe I am entitled to anything that I did n
    2. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by McShazbot · · Score: 2, Informative

      Do you realize you've made no point whatsoever? You compare using Spray Mount to commuting in a Hummer -- and that's supposed to establish one or the other (or both) is evil. But you've provided no proof of either point. Are you assuming the rest of us will assume you're self-authoritative?

      In all the web, you couldn't find a single link -- even to an environmentalist advocacy site to support your arguments? (Information from environmentalist sites might be considered questionable because of bias -- but at least it's something.) Sure, it takes five minutes longer to do that -- but it makes your arguments credible, at least prima facie.

      As a side note, using uncivilized words like "shit" and "fucking" are often a sign that the issuer doesn't really have an argument -- the same type of person will usually simply try to "shout down" their opponent when they run out of ideas. You may have a very solid point, but it's impossible for the rest of us to know because of the way you've presented it.

      --
      When life gives you lemons, make lemonade. But when life gives you crap, please don't make a beverage out of it.
    3. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Excuse me. The point was well made.

      "Spray Mount is to art production as Hummers are to commuting. The amount of shit you are putting into the air is absurd."

      This statement asserts that Spray Mount puts much more "shit" into the air than other art production tools like Hummer vehicles put much more, even an "absurb" amount of "shit" into the air compared to other transportation choices.

      The use of "shit" to decsribe pollution is as far as I'm concerned a quite accurate description.

      As far as environmental websites having potential bias. As long as it is a fact it does not matter what the source is.

      Other than that I don't see any problems with it.

    4. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by PCM2 · · Score: 1
      The amount of shit you are putting into the air is absurd. Use rubber cement and a brush. Yes, it takes five fucking minutes longer.
      But of course, the correct technique for using rubber cement is to apply it to both surfaces, let it cure, and then take advantage of rubber cement's property of sticking to itself. You don't just slop it on there and then mash the two pieces of paper together. You let it dry on both surfaces, then put a slip shit made of something like tracing paper in between them while you position them, then pull out the slip sheet, press, and voila! A venerable, time-honored technique, but I'm afraid it does take a little more than five minutes longer than spray adhesive.

      While not really sharing your political stance, though, I agree that anybody playing around with spray adhesive should have lots of ventilation and respiratory protection.

      --
      Breakfast served all day!
    5. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      hmm puts crap in air? much easier to use and spreads MUCH more even ,f the brush, not nearly as evenly spread, a little bit of ozone isnt worth the hours of frustration

    6. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Kickstart70 · · Score: 0, Offtopic

      I dunno. Hummers always get me moving pretty damned quick.

      Please mod this off-topic.

    7. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by gujo-odori · · Score: 1

      Actually, the point wasn't well made at all.
      Please consider:

      Spray Mount, being a spray glue product (I gather; not being involved in art production, I'd never heard of it before), probably puts some glue particles in the air. Whether or not it puts significantly more in the air than rubber cement (used to cement rubbers, I suppose ;-) has not been established at all. It may be true, it may not; at this point, we don't know. Having used rubber cement, I can tell you that it puts out a lot of fumes. The question, then, is how much more fumes would Spray Mount put out? The next question is, how harmful is it, really? Are the things released from rubber cement and spray mount persistent, or do they break down pretty quickly? If they're non-persistent, then it really doesn't much matter which you use, except a spray can is a bigger piece of garbage when empty.

      The biggest problem with this argument, though, is the statement about Hummers. I find them to be ugly and also too large to be practical, and wouldn't want to drive one even I could have it for free. However, no one has established that a Hummer puts out significantly more emissions than, say, a picup truck or other SUV, or if it puts out any more emissions at all. I live in California, which has the toughest vehicle emissiosn standards in the United States, and Hummers pass California standards.

      In light of that, I think the criticism is quite valid: he has not shown that Hummers pollute more than a pickup truck or other SUV, or that Spray Mount is a source of significantly more pollution than rubber cement. Both of those things may well be true, but no one has established that.

      Plus, he couched it in language that would make a person just want to go out and use Spray Mount to spite him. Never a good move.

    8. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by sfled · · Score: 1

      "Whether or not it puts significantly more [glue] in the air than rubber cement...has not been established at all."

      I could be wrong, I frequently am. Conduct an experiment in a closed room. Instead of spray mount, use spray paint to coat an 8.5" x 11" surface. Observe the amount of paint suspended in the air. Note that it can be inhaled. Note also that the smell of volatiles in the air is overwhelming.
      Now, instead of rubber cement, use brush-on paint to coat an 8.5" x 11" surface. Note that there are no particles of paint in the air. Note that the smell of volatiles is not unbearable.
      Yes, this is non-rigorous qualitative observation. Perhaps one of the science majors among us would like to perform a more quantitative procedure with accurate instruments. Go with your nose and eyes for now.

      Plus, he couched it in language that would make a person just want to go out and use Spray Mount to spite him.

      My choice of of words conveys how vehemently I oppose the use of toxic sprays for something as simple as mounting artwork. It is as inefficient and wasteful as using a Hummer (or any other vehicle with a large-displacement internal combustion engine) for commuting. Hopefully you will refrain from either in spite of me.

      --
      I'm not really a web designer, I just play one on the Internet.
    9. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by mhesseltine · · Score: 1
      But of course, the correct technique for using rubber cement is to apply it to both surfaces, let it cure, and then take advantage of rubber cement's property of sticking to itself. You don't just slop it on there and then mash the two pieces of paper together. You let it dry on both surfaces, then put a slip shit[sic] made of something like tracing paper in between them while you position them, then pull out the slip sheet, press, and voila! A venerable, time-honored technique, but I'm afraid it does take a little more than five minutes longer than spray adhesive.

      I know that's just a typo, but it makes for an interesting set of instructions. What exactly is the recommended way to make slip shit?

      --
      Overrated / Underrated : Moderation :: Anonymous Coward : Posting
    10. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by gujo-odori · · Score: 1

      Well, paint is not spray mount, so it would be best to conduct the experiment using the materials under discussion.

      In either, case, the the experiment should not be conducted in a closed room. If the instructions for spray mount are anything like the instructions for spray paint, you should use it in a well-ventilated area, with respiratory protection.

      You've ignored one central issue which I raised, which is the question of whether or not the solvents released when spraying spray mount are persistent. If they are persistent and harmful, then that is a factor. If they are not persistent (that is, they quickly degrade into non-harmful components), then spraying is no big deal, and it's main drawback would be that a spray can is a larger piece of waste and does not lend itself well to recycling.

      I do not know the answer to the question of persistence, and I don't know if you do, either. If you do, no evidence for it has been presented. I think that's what the other poster was getting at, that if you want people to take your arguments seriously, they either need to be accompanied by evidence that you have expertise in your own right on the topic (and you may well have it), or you need to point to the evidence of third-party sources who would be accepted as expert, but you did neither, and the result is that while you may be right and may know of solid evidence to back up your claim, no one who isn't already convinced will be likely to side with you.

      I don't much care for SUVs as commuting vehicles either, but my gripe is that they're so darned big and the people who drive them so darned inconsiderate, and most of them don't need the fscking things, they just drive them either to intimidate people in four-cyclinder economy cars (like me) or to make up for something else that isn't big enough. If I had a real need for an SUV (pulling a boat, carrying camping gear or hunting gear, etc.) I might get one and then be forced to commute in it because like most people, I can't really afford to keep a spare vehicle around. Most SUVs, I suspect, have never pulled a trailer, gone off road, carry camping hunting or fishing gear on a seldom or never basis, especially in California, and are just generally unnecessary. I find a four-door economy car to be large enough for myself, my wife, and two small kids, and that's the largest cargo most SUVs every carry.

    11. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Paradise+Pete · · Score: 3, Funny
      The amount of shit you are putting into the air is absurd.

      You misspelled trivial.

    12. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You modded down a moderator posting as AC? This is how you use your points?

      Idiot.

    13. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by sfled · · Score: 1

      "Well, paint is not spray mount, so it would be best to conduct the experiment using the materials under discussion."

      Spray mount is nearly transparent, paint is visible. Easier to observe in our non-rigorous experiment. Obviously a science major with the proper instruments would want to use spray mount and rubber cement.

      "I do not know the answer to the question of persistence, and I don't know if you do, either. If you do, no evidence for it has been presented."

      The toxicity of the ingredients in spray mount should be your immediate concern, although I applaud your foresight when wondering of the persistence of these chemicals. Unfortunately, I was unable to find persistence data for some of the chemicals. I choose two of the more common chemicals (Hydrotreated Light Naptha and Acetone), since they are found in spray products other than spray adhesives. Persistence data is included after the toxicity description.

      Spray mount contains:
      1) Hydrotreated Light Naptha
      "Hydrotreated light petroleum distillates (hydrotreated kerosene) are used as an inert solvent...This solvent has caused skin tumors when applied to the skin of laboratory mice.
      Hydrotreated heavy naptha (white spirits) is also used as an inert solvent...It is damaging to kidneys and the nervous system. In a recent laboratory study, the offspring of animals exposed to white spirits developed "long-lasting and possibly irreversible changes" in brain cells. This damage to the brain was caused by an inability to maintain normal calcium concentrations."

      Persistence - There was no data available on persistence in water or soil.
      Source - http://216.239.39.104/search?q=cache:iWXioTWo744J: www.pesticide.org/PyrethrinsPyrethrum.pdf+persiste nce+of+Hydrotreated+Light+Naptha&hl=en&ie=UTF- 8

      2) Acetone -
      "Breathing moderate- to-high levels of acetone for short periods of time, however, can cause nose, throat, lung, and eye irritation; headaches; light-headedness; confusion; increased pulse rate; effects on blood; nausea; vomiting; unconsciousness and possibly coma; and shortening of the menstrual cycle in women.

      Swallowing very high levels of acetone can result in unconsciousness and damage to the skin in your mouth. Skin contact can result in irritation and damage to your skin.

      The smell and respiratory irritation or burning eyes that occur from moderate levels are excellent warning signs that can help you avoid breathing damaging levels of acetone."

      Persistence - In air, about one-half of the total amount breaks down from sunlight or other chemicals every 22 days.It moves from the atmosphere into the water and soil by rain and snow. It also moves quickly from soil and water back to air. Acetone is broken down in water and soil, but the time required for this to happen varies.
      Source - http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts21.html

      So long, it's been fun. Stay out of the way of moving SUVs & deranged artists brandishing spray cans this Holiday Season.

      --
      I'm not really a web designer, I just play one on the Internet.
    14. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Yet the amount you are putting into /. isn't?

    15. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      Most of us understood his point quite easily. Perhaps you're just a moron? Here's some scientific analysis for you:

      1. How the hell do you think the glue comes out of the can? Magic? Here's a hint: it's called aerosol. Ass.
      2. You don't need to study the emissions of a Hummer to know it's going to pollute more than your average automobile. It's fucking huge. Big vehicles require big engines, which in turn require more fuel. Now I know it's hard for you to connect the dots, so I'll finish it for you...an engine that burns more fuel puts more shit in the air. Once again... Ass.
      3. There was nothing wrong with his fucking language. There is, however, something wrong with my fucking language...and if you ahve a problem with, you can suck on my big, hairy nuts.


      4. In conclusion, you're fucking retarded. STFU
    16. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Shut the fuck up, you fucking pussy. Uncivilized, my ass. You're just too fucking dense to understand his point. It's not hard to understand that both aerosol and car exhaust are pollutants. Go shove your head back up your ass.

    17. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by CharterTerminal · · Score: 1

      This is either the weirdest troll of all time, or the honest truth. If IHBT, then congratulations on a job well done. Otherwise, a thank you is in order. I never knew there was a right way to apply rubber cement. My whole life, I've been slopping it on there and then mashing the two pieces of paper together. I honestly never realized there was a better way.

      Not that this is, you know, a life-changing revealation, or anything, but still. Good to know.

    18. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Well at least you weren't cursing this time around. Too bad I don't have points today, I'd mod you up for this informative post.

      Your Moderator.

    19. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by gujo-odori · · Score: 1

      Yeah, I would mod him up too, if I had any mod points, but despite my good karma, I've only gotten mod points once. Ever.

      It makes me think that guy who said they track what you do when you post anonymously and will get you for it is not just whistling dixie, because once or twice I have been a logged in troll posting anonymously, if that's not an oxymoron :-)

      In light of that experience, I think his recommendation was probably very good advice: Use a different browser to post any trolls or controversial stuff, and if you can, get a new dynamic IP (mine is static). If you don't use a different browser, delete all your /. cookies. Clearing the browsr cache probably isn't a bad idea, either.

    20. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by gujo-odori · · Score: 1

      You're talking about other people's intelligence? Excuse me while I empty the contents of my stomach.

      There, now I feel a bit better.

      First, no one was wondering about how the glue gets out of the can, although I'm sure you find things like that extremely difficult. The discussion was about levels of toxicity and persistence, for which no evidence was presented. I apologize for using big, confusing words like that, but perhaps someone will explain them for you. I'm making this as simple as I can for you, because I know you're what it's PC to call "mentally challenged" these days. Please note that non-persistent agents are not particularly harmful to the environment, and many aerosols are not at all harmful to use without respirators (paint and glue do not fall into that category, but that was never at question; the whole question was one of persistence). You may want to reconsider who is suffering from RCIS (Recto-Cranial Inversion Syndrome) here, since you seem incapable both of comprehending what you read and of expressing yourself in writing at a level beyond what one commonly sees crudely spraypainted on freeway signs, or more commonly, scribbled on the bathroom wall.

      Secondly, no one ever compared Hummers with average automobiles. The discussion was Hummer versus pickup trucks or other SUVs. No one has even now stated or even suggested, let alone present actual evidence, that a Hummer pollutes more than a pickup truck. Full-size pickups, like Hummers, typically have fairly large V-8 engines and weigh a lot. You also seem rather unfamiliar with the whole field of vehicle emissions, because otherwise you would know that there is far more to pollution levels than engine size. Without even pulling in engines that use other fuels such as diesel, propane, or natural gas, I will direct your attention to, say, a vehicle that has a four cylinder or small six cyclinder engine, but which is 20 - 25 years old. I guarantee that a brand new Hummer H2 produces lower emissions in all categories, larger engine notwithstanding. And not only lower emissions by percentage, but lower absolute numbers. That's how far emissions technology has come. An H2 might even beat a smaller vehicle that was only 10 - 15 years old Once a gun, you may want to consider the anatomy of your own cranium and whether it bears a striking resemblance to your nether regions. It's difficult to imagine that it does not.

      Finally, what makes you think you have big, hairy nuts? I'm quite certain that if you ever had any to begin with, they were long ago removed when your parents brought you home from the county animal shelter. The nice people had the good sense to realize that while it was unlikely you would ever be able to reproduce outside of a laboratory, they couldn't take the chance. Unlike yourself, the person to whom I was replying has shown himself to be a person of consideration and intellect who just spoke overly passionately about something in which he strongly believes. You, on the other hand, are just a zitty, pre-pubsescent /. troll who hasn't the courage to post logged-in because he's a gonadless karma whore who sits in his mother's dark basement desperately wishing he could masturbate to porn all day but sadly unable to because of the aforementioned unfortunate experience at the animal shelter.

      That, my friend, is how you insult someone. Four-letter words just don't cut it, although I'm sure if you can find your way back and read this, you'll unleash even more of them than before. Too bad it doesn't matter, because you've already proven to everyone who read your little tirade just what a fool you are. You have a lot to learn.

      Now, the only question remaining is "Should this be modded a Troll or should this be modded flamebait?" I rather like flamebait, but who knows? It might wind up being Insightful after all. You, at least, might gain some insight from it if you take time to consider the lesson behind the verbal and mental buttwhipping you've just had.

    21. Re:Spray Mount is Evil by tubs · · Score: 1

      Eat lots of plums?

      --

      try to make ends meet, you're a slave to money, then you die

  69. Solo Euchre by gumbysworld · · Score: 1, Interesting

    A game I invented in high school.

    http://www.Viragotech.com/solo_euchre.gif

  70. check out cheap ass games by websensei · · Score: 1

    cheapass.com

    these guys understand games and just sell you what you need. (my personal favorite is 'kill dr lucky' -- hilarious, with high replay value)

    anyway this doesn't directly address your question but it's relevant, and you could get some good ideas wrt saving materials costs etc...

    --

    La via sola al paradiso incommincia nel inferno
  71. Try Poleconomy. by eugene+ts+wong · · Score: 1

    There is a Canadian game called, Poleconomy. It has 2 variations. 1 is economics based. The other is politics based. Unfortunately, the latter can be hard to play because of the complexities of politics, plus feelings might get personal.

    Also, there are 2 tracks in this game. Just like your game, the inner track gets rarely used.

    There would have to be some kind of special bonus in there to lure people into inner tracks.

  72. I'm interested in working on this... by UncouthRanting · · Score: 2, Informative

    Hey,

    I've got a small project management company I'm trying to build up and I've got connections to a decently priced printing company. They do not do board games and the like, specifically, but I can check with them.

    However, I'm not trying to whore my services--I'm truly interested in seeing what sort of ideas you have and maybe we can pool resources.

    -----

    --
    "And he raised his hands high and said unto the crowd 'Close your eyes and ye shall never fear again...'"
  73. Finding that perfect formula by ro_coyote · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I too have been interested in creating board games myself, at least in a digital form... I never honestly considered actually designing them into actual retail games...

    However, I agree... creating original games that people will want to play and enjoy, even board games, is a really difficult thing to do... to find something that hasn't already been done. I've come up with plenty of board game concepts in the past, and with many revisions/sub-creations from other ideas... and while the game formulas do work, are very original, and are actually fun (to myself at least), I often question what kinds of minds beside my own would play them - would you have to be a strategist, a math whiz, have a high school diploma at minimum, or what? Often I find my ideas are very great, but its hard to find something that a broad variety of people would want to play, as opposed to targeting a small, limited audience... and with such limitations, would the game actually be noticed and/or sell?

  74. Book on board game design... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

    Herbert Kohl wrote a nice little book on designing games called (I think) "Math, Writing and Games in the Open Classroom ". His take on it is not really commercial. He was more interested in the possibilities of allowing kids to make up their own games. But it is probably an interesting resource for someone looking at designing their own board game.

  75. Computer Game on AOL 10+ years ago? by blugu64 · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I remember back in the day I downloaded a game from AOL where you were a computer company, and you had to get new technologies, and sell computers...anyone remember it? You could download it and print it out, it was quite a blast IIRC.

    --
    "Personal ownership is a hallmark of conservative capitalism. And I don't believe I am entitled to anything that I did n
  76. Companies by PlainBlack · · Score: 3, Informative

    I've made hundreds of small games, and have even had a few of them professionally produced. For book type games (like RPGs), I go with Documation. They're inexpensive, will do small runs, and do a great job. For card game printing, I send my stuff out to India to a place called Print Masters.

    1. Re:Companies by JasonAsbahr · · Score: 1

      How is it to work with Print Masters? Any snags or quality control issues?

  77. You can have my game by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    It just uses a regular pack of cards. It's called 'Game Developer'.

    Jack - A great artist
    Queen - A great marketer
    King - A great tester
    Ace - A great programmer
    Joker - a wildcard - more later

    All other cards are bumbling useless employees.

    Each player starts off with 100 points. A dealer shuffles and deals four cards to each player. If you get one each of Jack, Queen, King, and Ace, you publish a successful game and make 100 more points in sales. Anything else and you lose 50 points in wasted salaries. If you reach 0 points, you're out of money and the game is over for you.

    If you get the Joker, you automatically make a successful game (cf: Jeff Minter and Llamatron).

    The point of the game is to make me depressed about my occupation.

  78. Beware: I took the plunge. by Yekrats · · Score: 4, Informative

    (I hope this doesn't come across as a gigantic free textad on Slashdot. :-)

    Hi there, I'm Scott Starkey, designer of the card game "The Mother Lode of Sticky Gulch." My game was honored by the GAMES 100 this past year, a lifelong dream I accidentally hurdled. I would be happy to dispense a little bit of advice.

    If you're just starting out, probably the "home-publishing" method could probably work for you. There's a few companies out there that are doing print runs at Kinko's and lovingly hand-cutting their product and selling it. Advantage: Very small cash outlay at the start. Disadvantage: Product might seem a little "cheap." (Cheaper than Cheapass?) Also takes a lot of energy to do each deck.

    Secondly, there's the method that I tried. If you're insane, and you've got a few thousand dollars that you'd just like to say goodbye to, you can have your cards professionally printed. There are a few printers around that will do small print runs of 1000 units or so. I went with Delano Service, because of them being geographically close to me, and they seemed to have excellent customer service. My good pal Jim Doherty of Eight Foot Llama seems to get good service in Canada at Quebecor. Fact is, there are several places you could get a game printed at, and there's no obligation to get a quote if you know what you need. In fact, it's rather fun to get quotes. :-)

    I don't want to discourage you too much, but creating a game is somewhat of a pain in the ass. You've got to compile a metric buttload of art, design each of the cards, lay it out in a way that's pleasing to the eye, design an attractive package, write clear and consise rules. Most games are designed by a team. Me, I was lucky, because I was already an artist, but it was still an uphill battle. Then once you compile all of the artwork, you might find out that the printer needs all of your art to be 300 dpi CMYK instead of 60 dpi RGB, and have to do it all over again, like I did.

    Of course, I didn't realize, after getting the game printed... printing the game is the easy part. Yeah, I'm designing games as a hobby. But now I have to become a marketer, promoter, and salesman. Fact is, I'm a horrible salesman, and I don't like pushing my game in people's faces. Also, if you're running a business, you've got to keep voluminous records of travel, expenses, taxes. It's all mind-numblingly boring, for something that was supposed to be fun!

    You might go to a convention and expect to sell a bundle of games. Don't kid yourself. I dropped $500 on half of a GenCon booth last year and sold a scant few decks. Chatting with some of the other boothites, it seems that most companies that go to a convention do not make back their investment at the convention. However, it does serve as good advertising. Having a presence at a convention puts a product in the public eye, which is good. But it doesn't really add up in many direct sales, unless you're Wizards of the Coast in 1992.

    I might never make back what I invested. Sales haven't been spectacular, despite having been honored by GAMES. It doesn't really matter, though. It's a wild ride. I am now a game designer with a mote of prestige. I've fulfilled a lifelong dream. It's my biggest gambit of all: I wagered a few thousand dollars that there are 1000 people out there that would buy my game. I get the feeling that very few people make a profit at this game. However, if I justify it as a "very expensive hobby," it takes the sting out somewhat. :-)

    You might check out the Board Game Designer Forum, where a bunch of folks of a similar mindset to you and me hang out and talk about the process of creating games. We critique each other's works, and have weekly chat sessions about various topics about the craft of game desi

    --
    Ceci n'est pas une pipe.
  79. Avalon Hill games by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Id love to be able to get some nice scans of some old out of print avalon hill games some of them are hard to get.

  80. Business or Pleasure? by MightyJB · · Score: 2, Informative

    Are you doing this for the "fun" or do you think it would be something that you would eventually market?

    If you think you will eventually market/sell it you need to becareful how you go about it. I know someone who came up with some original stuff and started to take it to "agents". (No No, not that Smith guy!) These are gaming agents who review your stuff. If they like it, they connect you with "industry". Anyway, he got totally shot down. To add insult to injury, some time later, he sees his stuff on the shelf in a store.

    I think he might be heading to court, but I'm not sure. He tells me that if he does go to court, he will lose any chance of getting published. Taking one of the big boys to court gets you flagged. No one will touch you again.

    Two-edged sword.

  81. Do *NOT* Use Kinkos! by weston · · Score: 4, Interesting

    I've worked as a project manager for a graphic design company -- brochures, business cards, letterhead, postcards, folders, book covers, whatever. And I can tell you that by far, I have had the absolute worst luck sending customers to Kinko's. They don't have equipment for doing die cuts or full-page printing. Often they don't have staff who know what Pantone Colors are or the difference between CMYK and RGB or what an EPS file is (or any vector artwork, for that matter). They're an overgrown copy shop with delusions of grandeur, not a printer. Any real printing services they offer, they outsource, and in either case, you're paying more.

    We've had much, much better luck sending customers to Sir Speedy, Alphagraphics, and PIP. If you need to photocopy something, or you're printing a B&W PDF, by all means, go to Kinkos. If you need quality printing, don't touch them.

    (And I might also note: don't even set foot in the building with the file. Mail them a PDF with your order, and come in a few hours later. Every time I've tried to use one of their computers to print something, there's been some sort of configuration problem that turned a 5 minute task into an hour. Every time I've given one of their staff a disk with a file on it, a similar event has ensued -- as recently as last night, I took a friend to a Kinkos where she had a three page Word Doc she wanted printed out. We left 45 minutes later with no printed document in hand, and eventually just drove back to my house (half hour away), used antiword, and had the thing in 5 minutes. I don't understand why this is -- I'm sure that we're not the first folks to walk in there with a Word Document, and most of my friends who've gotten jobs at Kinko's have been pretty sharp. But anytime I've done anything other than copy something, I've had a bad experience there.)

    1. Re:Do *NOT* Use Kinkos! by PCM2 · · Score: 1
      And I might also note: don't even set foot in the building with the file. Mail them a PDF with your order, and come in a few hours later.
      Actually, I get best results when I show up with a PowerBook and print it myself. They'll usually have a CD-ROM available with drivers for their printers. You can install those, plug your laptop into an Ethernet jack, and send your file to the Fiery or whatever. If it comes out crappy, you have the satisfaction of knowing it was your own damn fault. Added bonus: When you bring your own laptop, you don't have to worry about the money you're wasting on workstation fees. You can hang around as long as you want, until the prints come out right.
      --
      Breakfast served all day!
    2. Re:Do *NOT* Use Kinkos! by Ironica · · Score: 1

      I don't understand why this is -- I'm sure that we're not the first folks to walk in there with a Word Document, and most of my friends who've gotten jobs at Kinko's have been pretty sharp.

      I could tell you... but I'd have to kill you. ;-)

      Seriously though, I worked at Kinko's for five years, mostly running Computer Services departments at my store. And I was the person that the other folks running CS departments called when things went wrong. And the person my regional called when a store needed help with something (like reinstalling every machine in a store because they were switching server OSes).

      And the biggest problem is a disconnect between the people making up the policies and the people trying to carry them out. They have all these training programs, and the idea is, they can hire people at $7-8 an hour and teach them to do digital output, and it's all good. In theory, that's true. In practice, the stores are chronically understaffed, so they can never send anyone to training. You never can get caught up enough to send folks for training because those untrained people are messing up every job, so the managers are working 12 hours a day redoing everything for them. Then, the managers get chewed out by the regionals for clocking all that overtime.

      But there are places it works. There's one store I will go to around here... coincidentally it's the one I started out in, but basically they just know what they're doing. They have some of the same folks working there that I was with in 1996. And this is because they do a ton of business, so folks with high school diplomas (and sometimes less) take home fat profit-sharing checks every month, and have a nice middle-class lifestyle. In return, they keep it working by making sure they know what they're doing and keep people happy.

      My advice for the original poster was going to be that Kinko's might be a good place to get some promo stuff done, but definitely not where he needs to go for any big runs. He needs an offset printer for that, and there, volume is king. Getting 2000 items printed with offset is only a fraction of the cost more than 1000, since a lot of the cost is creating the plates (which, by the way, you should make sure you get... pay the extra cost for metal plates, and have them in hand when you're done). Also, if you keep it to two or three colors rather than going full-color, you'll save a bundle. Try to lay things out with at least .125" border, and you'll avoid full-bleed charges too.

      Mostly, find someone who speaks with confidence about what they do. Someone who makes suggestions about ways to do things (because there's ALWAYS more than one way to do things). Someone who insists on seeing the job before they quote you any price, but after seeing it knows right away what needs doing. Don't rely on them being big or small or anything... just see who has the time and information you need.

      --
      Don't you wish your girlfriend was a geek like me?
  82. ideas and pitfalls by supabeast! · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Think about doing a "Cheapass" game. Unless you plan of doing some incredibly beautiful board/pieces, there's no need to do anything special. Just hire a print shop (A real one that does cheap bulk jobs, not Kinko's.) to do it on cardboard and sell it out of zip-loc baggies. If that one does well, invest in cardboard boxes for the next one.

    Pitfalls to avoid in boardgames:
    -Make a game that can handle at least four players, because very few people look for new games for less than four players.
    - Don't make it take a long time-stay under two hours. There are some people who like eight hour games, but those people are few and far between, and they already own Risk and everything from Eagle and GMT.

  83. Yo Motha Fucka by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

    You think I don't see your Racism? Think again.

    1. Re:Yo Motha Fucka by 1iar_parad0x · · Score: 1

      Racism is hardly that subtle.

      Secondly, I don't know if I would call that racism, as much as I would call it misguided isolationism. Is the rest of the world racist for not even allowing foreigners to work on their soil? It's not like I can go to India to get a job.

      That's the problem with language. Racism used to be the belief of a superiority of a group of people by color. Now, if you say anything remotely mentioning a person race, it's racism. When we loose our language we descend into barbarism.

      I also really can't tell if the parent is even referring to the H1B Visa issue.

      --
      What do you mean my sig is repetitive? What do you mean my sig is repetitive? What do you mean....
  84. cheap ass games by autumnpeople · · Score: 1

    I'm not sure if they are still in business, but they had the best business model. They sell you the cards, a board printed on a few sheets of heavy paper, and that's it. The theory is that you have all the rest of it, just get it out of some other game. The games cost about $5 and are a lot of fun...

    -awl

  85. Strangely enough by Kickstart70 · · Score: 1

    Last night I put the finishing touches on the first playtestable version of my board game :)

    KS

  86. cards by Johnnienumlock5 · · Score: 0

    I don't know about cost but Bycicle cards of Cincinnati does all types of cards, not just playing cards. You have to ask and it is much more professional.

    --
    http://www.users.muohio.edu/reamsjp/donate.html
  87. Spraymount is fired. Kinko's is more fired. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative

    Spraymount Is not good for long term solutions. Spraymount breaks down (Oxidation?) over time. I have used it in a lot of applications and over time, especially with paper products, it will become brittle and as the two layers of materials expand and contract at different rates, you will get ripples, warps, and peeled up edges. This is the exact problem you will run into with images printed on papers spraymounted you cardboard based applications. You can get things drymounted, but that is more expensive.

    Kinko's is notorious for screwing things up. They have poorly maintained equiptment because they run the equiptment on the ragged edge to keep margins up. Try a real printer. There are a lot of them out that that specialize in this type of work and can probably get you better rates on bulk. Besides a real printer would probably know the best way to mount the images to a material in a durable application.

  88. Tiles by Tim+Evans · · Score: 1

    If you're making a game that requires a lot of tiles (ala Scrabble) then buy small seramic or glass wall tiles, as used for bathrooms and kitchen walls. They go down to about 1" square, look good, and a whole sheet/box of them is quite cheap.

  89. Gaming piece design info by Ivan+the+Tolerable · · Score: 2, Informative

    I work doing Cad/Cam design, cutting molds, and casting processes. I would recommend white metal castings in a rubber centrifugal rig as being the most cost effective with very little startup cost.
    In the beginning, the metal pieces will be far, far cheaper than plastic.
    If you are not going to be going into full production immediately (200,000 + units), plastic pieces are actually quite a bit more expensive than metal.
    Plastic injection molding dies are referred to as "tools", and even a simple one is US$ 30,000 +.
    Many are in the six figure range. Each plastic unit manufactured from the tool may only cost a few cents, but you have to amortize out the initial cost of the tool.
    Per-unit cost for metal pieces is higher, but the initial setup costs are only a few hundred dollars, sometimes less.

    I can do CAD/CAM master/mold cutting and get you in touch with a casting facility in your area if you are in need of one.

  90. zillions of games by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    check out the software zillions of games. it will allow you to rapid prototype electronic versions of your designs. http://www.zillions-of-games.com/

  91. Here's the bible for wargames - free :) by leftie · · Score: 1

    The Complete Wargames Handbook 2nd Edition. by James F Dunnigan Copyright (C), 1997, James F Dunnigan. Dunnigan's the alpha and omega for the old paper map and counter wargame grognard crowd. He founded SPI and headed it until TSR bought them out. SPI published hundreds of titles including the infamous "War in Pacific" (single ship, company level, week-by-week turns for the entire Pacific Theater in WW2. Over 5000 paper counter and a map that would cover the living rooms of most houses.) Anyway, here's Dunnigan's tome on designing wargames. A third eition is out, but the 2nd edition is here linked free. http://www.strategypage.com/search.asp?target=d:\i netpub\strategypageroot\prowg\wargameshandbook\con tents.htm&search=James%20Dunnigan

  92. feelies by emullin · · Score: 1

    My understanding is that the technical term game board goodies is "feelies"... there's an awesome collection of game pieces, etc., available for ordering from feelies.org. You can browse the offerings and price list at http://www.feelies.org/prices.php

    Hope this helps!

    Eileen

  93. The point is by Skim123 · · Score: 1

    Monopoly was invented 25 years prior. Read the article - it's was created to demonstrate the benefits of a particular land tax system the game's creator was in favor of...

    --

    I could not justify my existence if I were a turkey farmer. Would I terminate myself? Undoubtably, yes.

    1. Re:The point is by gabec · · Score: 1

      Exactly my point, though instead of saying "introduction of monopoly" I should have said "the sudden full-on success of monopoly". If the game was around for 25 years before the great depression (in whatever form/fashion/name) and wasn't known for dick and then the great depression hits and all of a sudden it's a smashing success, THAT PROVES MY POINT. (*wooo... too much coffee*)

  94. From someone whose hobby is arts and crafts by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I read through some of the posts and many people are correct about the printing aspects. The heavy cardboard that many are referring to use as a game board is called Book Board. Its higher quality than standard press board and you can get it from an art supply store (the big chains don't usually carry it as its a bit more pricey) but the advantage is its durable and acid and lignin free.

    Acid and lignin are what are naturally occuring in paper products and cause things to yellow and deteriorate (think old newspaper). You want to chose your adhesives and your papers carefully to make sure you have a high quality product.

    As to the adhesives, spray mount is ok because although it smells and needs venilation it is safe for paper. RUBBER CEMENT IS NOT A GOOD CHOICE. There are some now that are a little better but the standard formula will eventually deteriorate paper. Check the scrapbook section of a large craft chain or a rubber stamping store for large selections of paper adhesives. Also check out book binding sites for glue choices also.

    For the pieces there is something out there known as Polymer Clay (better known by the brand names fimo or sculpey to some). Its a colored oven bake clay that is great for sculpting, molding etc. Would be great for prototyping your pieces after which you could have professional molds made and have them cast. Try doing a searh for Polymer Clay you will find lots of information and sites about it. And do research into the brands because some are stronger and more stable than others. FIMO, PREMO are the two stronger clays availabe.

    -Cecelia

  95. Great first step by Tingler · · Score: 1

    Log onto www.richdad.com . There you will find the game that Robert Kiyosaki made. He goes into detail how he made the game in the cd/tape series "You Can Choose To Be Rich." Mr. Kiyosaki explains what process he went though to get his books & game published. He and his advisers discuss what steps were taken from a business point of view. I think you will find the information this product contains very useful on many levels.

  96. WTMF by minusthink · · Score: 1

    Jesus christ, don't look on google or something. Just write into slashdot and wait for people to tell you.

    I'm so sick of this, if I could turn off Ask Slashdot I would. No I'm not looking it up, I'm waiting for Ask Slashdot: How do I turn off ask slashdot.

    Anyway, my best guess would be a printers. Good luck with your game.

    --
    "when life gets complicated, I like to take a nap in a tree and wait for dinner" - Hobbes.
    1. Re:WTMF by TiggsPanther · · Score: 1

      Errrm, you already can remove it from your homepage settings.

      --
      Tiggs
      "120 chars should be enough for everyone..."
  97. 50 Quatloos... by Greyfox · · Score: 1

    To the first fizbin reference!

    --

    I'm trying to teach myself to set people on fire with my mind... Is it hot in here?

    1. Re:50 Quatloos... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have the complete Fizzbin Rules! It was in an issue of the "Star Trek Poster Book"! I subscribed to that for its entire two-year run. I guess that makes me socially unacceptable.

  98. Or better yet... by Tokerat · · Score: 1


    ...create a simple program to prototype the game, which will save the costs of creating pieces and cards and all that until you've got the rules down and you know everything works and is fun. Then, once you know it's worth it, go and have your game manufactured.

    --
    CAn'T CompreHend SARcaSm?
  99. Early testing options by stuartkahler · · Score: 2, Insightful

    There are already lots of good posts on how to do a professional run at 1000+ copies. Before you get to that point, you should do a few dozen copies to test with friends and strangers at game cons using techniques like what Cheapass Games does.

    For decks of action or play cards, print on pre-perforated blank business card sheets. If you have a board that you play on, use the heaviest cardstock that you can run through your printer (8.5x11 probably). If you want a bigger board, use multiple sheets. Set up interchangeable board elements to hide the fact that you can't print one huge board (like the random placement of RoboRally boards). Use generic glass beads for tokens. For unique pawns, fold pieces of paper into an upside down 'V' shape with a picture on them.

    Until you really fine tune the game to point where random people like it even with the Ghetto(tm) pieces, you shouldn't bother with anything pricey, like die cut decks, full color anything (unless it comes out of your own inkjet), or custom designed pawns. Board games tend to be very pricey to produce. Richard Garfield came to Wizards of the Coast with RoboRally and several other board games back in the early 90's. They told him that the board games were far too costly to produce. Eventually he came back with something much cheaper called Magic: the Gathering. It required over 300 different pieces of artwork, but only cost about $1 per deck, or $0.25 per pack to manufacture. Their wholesale price was about 4x that. Once Garfield's net worth hit 8 figures, he was able to produce the board games he originally wanted to do. Keep this in mind when you're trying to decide if the professionally produced decks and die cut pieces are worth investing in.

    Anyone making heavy-weight perforated hexagonal sheets would be awesome, but that's probably too much to ask. It would significantly speed my dream of a Nuclear Winter of Catan game. :)

  100. Partner with a professional by cedneve · · Score: 1

    My neighboor does this for a living. He imagines the game and then the gaming company(ies) he is working for reviews it and eventually goes on to produce it. I would advise you to meet/get in touch with such a guy. If you want to get in touch with my neighboor, send a mail to cedneve@swing.be.

  101. start by... by _newwave_ · · Score: 1

    I was wondering if people knew of good resources for how to go about doing this

    Get more game than Milton Bradley.

  102. some advice from a self-editing game author by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I found the advice found on Doris+Frank's
    page quite helpful. Especially they stress how
    important it is to be a graphical designer, or, failing that, being married to one :-).

  103. Go to the Esen Game Fair by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Once you have play tested your game, are happy with the rules, and have a good quality physical copy, you are going to want to sell it.

    The standard way to do this is to visit the annual Game Fair held in Esen in Germany, as all the major companies send representatives there and you can demonstrate your game to them.

    But be warned - they get very busy, so you are best off contacting the companies a few months before the fair to arrange appointments during it at specific times.

  104. Learn what's out there first by salmacis2 · · Score: 1

    So many people think typical boardgames are like Risk, Monopoly or Scrabble. This is because they don't know any better. Before designing a game, familiarise yourself with the best games that are currently available. If nothing else, they will likely make the shortcomings of your design obvious. I would recommend the following: Settlers of Catan, El Grande, Tigris & Euphrates, Carcassonne, Ra, Puerto Rico, Bohnanza, Through The Desert, Tikal, Age of Steam, Amun Re, Medici, Loewenhertz etc, etc. If you have any interest in boardgames, the mechanics of some of these games will open your eyes.

    1. Re:Learn what's out there first by SargeofNY · · Score: 1

      I could not have said it any better. This is excellent advice!

  105. Mod article down by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    "New for nerds, stuff that matters"

    It isn't news. It sure doesn't matter. Why did this article get selected?

  106. Publishing Online by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I work with a company that allows any game to be published to their engine for play online. I have already put up one original game and many more are to come. They were originally designed to bring old CCGs online to revive the games.

    http://www.ccgworkshop.com

    If you are willing to learn the language (modified xml/Pascal) you can do almost anything online. Playing games is relatively free (a small charge for playing more than 30 games / month). The only current issue is that the software has not been ported to other platforms, though it does work under VirtualPC for MAC and WINE for Linux pretty well...

    1. Re:Publishing Online by JasonAsbahr · · Score: 1

      XML/Pascal? What the heck?? : )

  107. Re:Why not just skip some steps & program it u by Bohnanza · · Score: 1
    "Why not save dread trees, et al. & skip the paper stage... go directly to digital."

    Maybe because some people actually prefer getting together with friends instead of sitting around by themselves staring at a computer screen. There's more to gaming than "awesome grafix!!!!"

    --

    -----

    Sorry, I'm only a 1336 h4x0r.

  108. Research! by raelimperialaerosolk · · Score: 1

    I worked with a guy that created games as a hobby/second income. He used to bring his prototypes into work and have people mess with them. One I remmeber was a sort of chance/propability type game sending a marble through an array of nails to see which slot it landed in.

    I do know that he sold several of his games and does in fact get royalty checks every once in a while. I had heard through the grapevine that he hit it big on one game and sold it in a 6 figure deal.

    The point of this post is this: Do your research. He had been talking about this game that he'd been working on for months. Some sort of hockey game, and I didn't pay attention. One day he brings it into work and it was stand up hockey players sandwhiched between two sheets of plexiglass. You control the players with magnets from top and botton. You should have seen the look on his face whenI told him that I had owned a similar game as a kid called "Phil and Tony Esposito Action Hockey". He was really bummed.

    At any rate, dunno how you go about marketing/selling a game...but I do know that you don't have to work for Mattel to make a few bucks off it.

    --
    A good friend will help you move. A really good friend will help you move a body.
  109. Aha! I can pretend to be an expert! by Thedalek · · Score: 2, Informative

    This is actually an area in which I have a reasonable amount of experience.

    For card games:

    You have two options for getting a good looking deck made cheaply. You can buy a pack of 250 sheets of cardstock ($7.00 - $10.00 depending on where you go) and have that precision cut someplace like Kinko's or CopyMax (in OfficeMax). Standard playing cards are usually 2.5" x 3.5", although some are 2" x 3". At any rate, you should be able to get at least 10 cards from each sheet, possibly more, giving you about 2500+ cards.

    Alternatively, you can go to your local print shop and have them precision cut some 12-point semi-glossy stock for you. It will look a lot nicer, and shuffle better, but it will cost you much more (I paid $20.00 for 300 cards).

    Before you print, you should make sure your card graphics are going to print at the right size. I did things the hard way in Paintbrush, which generally prints at 96dpi, so each card had to be 240 x 336 (for 2.5 x 3.5). More powerful paint programs are capable of resolution scaling and size specification. YMMV.

    Now you're ready to print. Arrange your card graphics in page layouts. I generally use 8 cards per page so that there's room between them. Print out a page on regular paper. This is going to be your carrier page.

    Get some semi-adhesive sticky notes. Cut the sticky part off and tape it, sticky side up, in the middle of each card graphic on the carrier page. Stick a card on each sticky note so that it completely covers the previously printed area. Print the page again, making sure to have it oriented such that it prints the right way on the cards. Peel the cards off, stick blank ones on, print the next page of cards. Repeat.

    You'll probably want to get a corner-rounder punch from your local crafts/scrapbooking store. Do not get the one offered at Wal-Mart for $3.00. It will wear out after about 200 punches. Expect to have a sore thumb by the end of all this.

    Pawns: Bearwood sells pre-painted pawns in a wide variety of colors, as well as a wide assortment of cubes, disks, and other potentially game-related items, all at a reasonable price. Note: Only the pawns come pre-painted.

    Boards: I was lucky enough to find 8.5" x 11" thick cardboard sheets at the worst job I've ever had. They were being used in a shipping warehouse as padding material for heavy books. I absconded with several dozen, but I haven't seen them elsewhere.

    If, however, you are wanting to make your board out of modular pieces, such as hexagonal or square tiles, your best bet is to find a game which already uses the same size and shape tile, and then print out, cut, and spray-mount your own graphics onto those tiles.

    For hexagonal tiles, a copy of The Settlers of Catan gives you 38 3-inch diameter tiles for about $20.00 - $38.00 (depends where you buy it). Some places have been liquidating an old Fantasy Flight game called Thunder's Edge for $10.00, and it contains 30-50 Catan-sized tiles(I don't recall the exact count). Lastly, Fantasy Flight sells a game called Maelstrom for $20.00. It contains 150 hexes, but they are smaller than those previously mentioned. Check this pdf to see just how big they are.

    For square tiles, a copy of Carcassonne has 84 1.75-inch tiles if it contains the River Expansion (72 if it doesn't), at a cost of about $20.00. Larger tiles may be available in other games, but I lack knowledge of them.

    For circular tiles in a variety of sizes, nothing beats a good big set of Diskwars or Range Wars, going cheap at most of the places that sold it. Check

    I still think that there wou

    --
    Happiness is relative, Based upon the way we live.
  110. Re:Aha! I can pretend to be an expert! by Thedalek · · Score: 1

    I hit submit a wee bit too early, it seems.

    Regarding Diskwars and Rangewars, I meant to say: "Check ebay, or the Boardgamegeek marketplace for the best deals."

    --
    Happiness is relative, Based upon the way we live.
  111. Join the Board Game Designers email list by docbrown42 · · Score: 1

    here

    Lots of useful information, links, and feedback.

    --
    Ed Wedig
    Graphic design services
    docbrown.net
  112. Making them yourself by moofrank · · Score: 1

    There are really three sane ways to go: I've done two of them so far, and REALLY like the idea of the third. 1. Sell to a publisher. You almost have to know someone who knows someone. The money is tiny, TINY, the big plus is that there just isn't much work involved. The danger is of course that they might screw up the design or production. 2. Print 1000-2000. Delano and Quebecor are both reputable companies. Jolly Roger uses Altenberger in Germany which has produced great stuff for my games. The price in Germany used to be GREAT, but the dollar and euro exchange rate has mostly screwed that up. The problem here is that you have to work out how to sell that many copies BEFORE you start producing the game. Attend GAMA. Call distributors, repeatedly pester online retailers. Even 1000-2000 copies will take you 2 years to sell through unless you get very very lucky. 3. Make about 100 copies by hand. I've seen some very impressive ways to do this. db spiele in Germany hand makes their games from foam bits, hand laminated and colored cardstock, and lots of time. Yungames may have the best model. He gets generic black boxes, laser prints rules and color labels on the boxes. Then he uses wooden tiles with laser printed labels for EVERYTHING. The end result is nice, heavy games that look nice. All of the wood makes them a bit pricey, but not that bad. And, you can use weirder bits in your games. I wrote an article about some of my game prototypes here: http://www.thegamesjournal.com/articles/GroovyProt otypes.shtml

  113. Also working on a game by kdbarrett · · Score: 2, Insightful

    This is a great discussion and very timely for me! I'm working on getting a ccg published independently. I've already gotten lots of good info. Check the website: http://www.magewarfare.com. Here's the story so far: My son (who's almost 17) created his own ccg after getting bored with the existing ones. He came up with all the rules and the gameplay and I helped with some cards. When we had 500, we figured it was time to try it out. Our first step was to playtest. We put the cards in a database and used Word's mail merge to produce a whole lotta pages neatly arranged in tables with card-sized cells. We had that printed and cut at Kinko's (more on them below), put them in card holders (using cards from those other games for backing :-) ) and took them to our local comics/card shop and with the owner's support, enlisted some local gamers. We've been taking feedback and streamlining the rules (it was pretty complicated at first), while at the same time enlisting artists through word-of-mouth, our website and artist forums. It's been about a year and we know have about 40 artists, 80+ pics (more coming in all the time) and a growing number of players eager for the first release. Thanks to a state-funded non-profit agency (http://www.microcreditnh.org), we also have access to some funding. We're still using "homemade" cards - though they look better now - but we had an "official" demo, with local press coverage. We're working towards a spring release of a 280-card subset of the 500+ cards we now have. The reason for this is to keep production costs down. We did get an estimate for a full production run, including tuck boxes, etc., and that was in the $40,000 - $50,000 range, depending on how many deck variations we wanted. So, we're going with the subset and we will assemble decks and shrinkwrap them for sale locally, through stores on consignment. We will not be selling them ourselves; our job is to promote the game, not get into the retail business. Revenue from this will bring in enough to go into full production. As for Kinko's, we've found the quality of service to depend primarily on who we deal with. There's one employee who can't even open files from a disk, so when she sees us coming, she passes us off to someone else. There are a couple of employees who've gotten to know us and our project and are very helpful and go out of their way to do good work. Plus, the regional manager has recently started helping out as well. They've already said they can't handle the commercial version, but for our home-made stuff and the posters we've done so far, they've been very good. And besides, they're open when I'm not working, which most other printers/copiers are not. So, if you've taken the time to read THIS much, then perhaps you can offer suggestions, advice, thoughts...? Thanks!

    --
    Kevin Barrett Mage Warfare http://www.magewarfare.com
    1. Re:Also working on a game by Pyphracket · · Score: 1

      Nice Game! Seems the beginning is a little complicated to start (mostly keeping track of Flesh and the other stuff - energy?) anyway. You may find it hard to sell because the flesh and stuff is hard to keep track of on paper - perhaps would be better if you found a different way of keeping track of flesh or whatever (eg. Magic the Gathering, pokemon, etc. use Land cards that you tap... perhaps something similar? or something else totally different)

    2. Re:Also working on a game by kdbarrett · · Score: 1

      Hey, thanks for taking the time to look it over! We actually have received very similar feedback and have streamlined the rules considerably. They should be posted next week. Thanks again!

      --
      Kevin Barrett Mage Warfare http://www.magewarfare.com
  114. Not really... by Skim123 · · Score: 1
    If the game was around for 25 years before the great depression (in whatever form/fashion/name) and wasn't known for dick and then the great depression hits and all of a sudden it's a smashing success, THAT PROVES MY POINT.

    I disagree. I could invent a neat product today, but if it didn't get applicable funding and marketing for twenty years, it might be that long before it becomes a commonplace in the home. If you read the article I linked to in the grandparent - you have read it, no? - you'd see that the "inventor" of Monopoly didn't have his success until a family member of the Paker family, who ran the Parker Bros. game company, happened to play it and recommend it to the higher-ups at Parker Bros. Had this person not had the chance opportunity to play Darrow's Monopoly, the game might never have become big. Likewise, had Parker Bros. had a chance to pimp this game in the 1910s, perhaps it would have become big then instead.

    People always want to play games where they accumulate wealth, regardless of the country's economic situation.

    --

    I could not justify my existence if I were a turkey farmer. Would I terminate myself? Undoubtably, yes.

  115. Re:Try Kinko's -- or better yet, try PopCopy! by Spamlent+Green · · Score: 1

    Better yet, try Pop Copy!

    "... and if they have Apple and PC disks, tell them muthaf*ckers we use Linux!"

  116. Allen's right... by freeBill · · Score: 1

    ...about IP paranoia, as one would expect from an experienced professional.

    I do have a story that is more humorous than informative: In the early '80s one of the major game companies encouraged prospective designers to submit games to them as a way of applying for a job. I did so, using a working title which I thought was "not commercially viable." They lost the prototype I sent them and subsequently published a warning that no one should send them games (without even acknowledging they had been encouraging it for years). Then another game company announced a game with the same title as mine. I went in to complain and was hired. Go figure.

    When the other company's game came out, it had no resemblance to my game whatsoever (although the title did prove to be every bit as nonviable as I had imagined).

    As far as the distributors/publishers confusion, publishers are often guilty of blurring this line. WOTC and Games Workshop are famous for it. And both of them also operate retail stores. "Game Trade" magazine is a good source for this side of the business, although I don't think Mike Stackpole is still writing his highly informative column for them.

    A lot of good ideas have been posted in answer to the original question (especially about forums and web sites dedicated to the subject). Here are a few less-than-obvious suggestions from a professional game designer:

    • Lumping card games and board games together suggests the original poster has not thought sufficiently about which market he (or she) is interested in. Card games are different from collectible card games. Both are different from traditional board games (Clue, Monopoly, etc.). All of these have virtually nothing in common with Chess and Go. To say nothing of Catan, Cheapass Games, wargames, miniatures rules, Diplomacy and other multiplayer games, D20 supplements, RPGs (which are an entirely different publishing problem from Open Game License products) and probably a bunch of others I haven't thought of. Are we talking mass market? Niche market? Kids games? Educational games? You want custom-made playing pieces? Parker-Brothers-style plastic pawns? Play money? Every one of these questions produces an entirely different answer to the basic questions the poster has asked. Answer them first, and then ask your question (preferably on a specialized forum).
    • The original poster mentions cards. There are a number of issues revolving around cards. First is, "Do they need unreadable backs?" If people need to lay them face-down on the table without the other player[s] knowing what they are, you almost certainly need a specialty playing-card printer. Most printers have not thought through the issues involved here and will promise you they can do it. But they cannot. The slightest variation in ink density on the Ace of Spades will get someone shot in a poker game. Second question is, "Are they "collectible"? This brings up all kinds of issues about randomness and fairness and packaging that even an expert playing-card printer may not understand.
    • Your rules will be read by two vastly different audiences: Some people will read them trying to interpret them as you intended; some will deliberately try to misinterpret them to gain some advantage in the game. Massive unhappiness will result if you don't write with both in mind. (This is why some game rules read like IRS instructions. Both have to be written with loophole-hunters in mind.)
    • Testing is obviously important, but some things about testing are less obvious:
      • Blindtesting is different from playtesting. Both are important. In playtesting, the developer sits down with the playtesters for weeks (or even months) at a time and plays the heck out of the game. Blindtesters should have no other contact with the designers except to receive a mock-up of what the purchasers of your product will receive. You need to know if they can figure it out from that. And you need to know if they end up playing the same game as playtesters who are getting subtle h
    --
    Eternal vigilance only works if you look in every direction.
  117. Some of the best resources I know of... by Mr.Mustard · · Score: 0

    I know I'm a day late to this question, so this will probably be lost, but I hope it is useful.

    the board game designer's forum has a lot of information.
    http://www.bgdf.com/index.php

    deck of boards talks about game systems and using them for design. at the bottom there are several links to places that sell bits.
    http://www.di.fc.ul.pt/~jpn/gv/dob.htm

    The Games Journal has a lot of useful information.
    http://www.thegamesjournal.com/Archi ves.shtml

    printable graph paper
    http://www.incompetech.com/beta/plainGraphP aper/

    those are just some random links i had on hand. good luck. i would also encourage you to remember that there are many people that like to play games that are color blind. it's not a bad idea to run your color selections past a few color blind guys (different types) to make sure that they can play without too much difficulty. oh, and playtest playtest playtest. you can't do too much playtesting, and make sure you vary the people you playtest with.

    --
    fnord
  118. Not "GameTrade" by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Game Trade Magazine is a promotional and preorder mag from Alliance Distribution, and wouldn't be a good place to get info on being a publisher. You are thinking of "Comics and Games Retailer" from Krause. Stackpole still does a column there.

    But that's only a concern if this guy wants to get into the game publishing *industry*, not if he just wants to publish a game. Going into the market is a whole different can of worms, and not for the casual. Like any business having a good idea means nothing to this market, you have to implement a strategy and work your tail off. Since the margins are low and the market smaller than the rightoff for most major motion pictures, it usually doesn't make sense.

  119. RPGnet "Industry" Community by herderofcats · · Score: 1
    There is a very active game publishers and designers forum at RPGnet in the "industry" section.

    There you can find lots of advice on game design, manufacturing of games, distribution issues, etc.

    -- Herder of Cats

  120. Where to pitch a game... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    KublaCon in the Sillicon Valley had a board game designer competition that was attended by one of the biggest names in game design (Reiner Kzinsa, I believe... pardon the spelling). The winner, in part would get the opportunity to pitch their notion to a very open-eared gaming company (or two, or three). Fantasy Flight Games is publishing a host of "$20" quick little games, but I haven't heard if they are solliciting any applications, or are mostly translating lesser-known games by big named designers overseas. I know they've been taking a lot of chances and expanding outside of their usual roleplaying books and Game of Thrones CCG.
    The gaming market is getting more open to newcomers and smaller companies, it seems (even after the big D20 System boom has subsided, the smaller companies have stuck around... many of them trying very hard to diversify into traditional games!). Another GREAT way to break into the game publishing/designing business is to be in attendance at GAMA - the annual roleplaying/hobby tradeshow in Las Vegas. Everyone who is anyone in publishing/producing shows up for it, and it is just for industry folks, so there isn't the overhead of fanboys that you have to deal with at GenCon.
    My $0.02 ;-)

    - Danielle
    knows_wills_dares@yahoo.com
    Game*Alot in Santa Cruz, CA