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Read about this on CNX. A commenter pointed out that there are already lots of Arduino compatible boards available on Ebay.

Seems legit!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/512GB-...

And yet another top of the line card comes out at $1/GB more or less. With even the smallest cards going for $10 a Best Buy due to shipping and storage prices... can we find some better way of doing this? How about a box of 10 SD cards like floppies at the signoff price for floppies at $10/box?

Best Buy? LOL. Ever hear of eBay, grandpa? Here's 10 32GB microSD cards for $29.99 with free shipping, that works out to $3/card and less than $0.1/GB.

I'll chime in as another "$240?!?" voice here, because whittling that number down a bit can certainly be done. First off, you can purchase your own cable box outright. My cable company charges $20/month for a standard box, and $36/month for a DVR box. these boxes will pay for themselves in less than a year, and by law, your cable company must make a Cablecard available for you. If you're a DIY type like me, you can pick up one of these and use it with either Windows 7 (it's the only OS that supports all the DRM necessary for some of the ultra-premium channels) or Mythbuntu (free and formally supports that card) in a PC build. More expensive for sure, but even it will pay for itself in less than two years, especially if you have one Mythbuntu backend and use Raspberry Pis as frontends. Assuming three cable boxes and a DVR that are replaced with this setup and you buy new parts for the back end, you'll spend about $800 and two Saturday afternoons configuring it all, while my cable company would charge me $912 for the same service. The two caveats I'll fully admit is that the cable company's Video on Demand probably won't work, which may or may not be important to you - and I've got no idea how Pay-Per-View works (UFC fights, etc.), and also that the cable company may charge a fee to rent the CableCard (mine costs $2/month) while only providing support for the CableCard - you're responsible for the functionality of your own box.

Another thing I've done to save money is to get rid of their telephone service. Ooma costs me about $5 a month, plus $40 for the number port. They have their own handsets, or you can use units that will work with the base directly. They've been around for a while, and I couldn't be happier.

Finally, buy your own modem. That's $5-$10/month right there.

This has been Voyager529's guide on saving a bunch of money on your cable bill.

Yeah. I bought a solar powered fountain pump at harbor freight back in the good days when I thought I had a lot of money, wasn't sick and had no credit card debt. Still have it. The thing comes with a centrifugal pump that will pump water only about a foot high - I guess it's enough to aerate a pond, for free. The actual website description http://www.harborfreight.com/s... says peak output power is 1.2W. Yeah, 1.2W on a full sunny bright day, like they have in San Diego. You can probably get 0.5W power out of it. But let's keep that 1.2W number in mind.

Here is ebay $111 12V 100W solar panel selling like hotcakes on ebay from missouri wind and solar: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371071....
Here is ebay $45 12V 35W etc, http://www.ebay.com/itm/371418... that I have contemplated buying for LED TV, laptops and LED house lights off of. Of course on home made batteries, or at least car jumping powerpack, including an cigarette light socket inverter that makes 110VAC from 12VDC.

Compare those above prices for the more accessible and tangible to a customer harbor freight stuff:
Here is $200 12V 45W solar panel http://www.harborfreight.com/4... . Yeah it includes some gadgets like an inverter and some LED lights bling bling, that you can probably buy on ebay for like $25 directly from China. Still, $200 for 45W max? (on a bright sunny day at noon, 9AM or 5PM it's probably 10-20W, and on a cloudy day probably 1W.)

Wind power deals with similar price/watt issues, plus moving parts that fail faster than solar panels, so solar is kind of growing faster, especially in the bright sunny desert areas, compared to wind. But wind works on a cloudy day, and especially at night too. But as a home user expect to deal with 100W or so capacities under optimum (rare) conditions, once in a blue moon, not reliable, especially cannot be relied on now now when you need it now, especially without awesome storage.

You can run a lot of small motors backwards, and may get 10-20W power via a handcrank or a windmill out of the larger ones from older heavy duty dot matrix printers or hand vacuum cleaners, if they are properly constructed DC motors, and car alternators are possibly the cheapest form of bulk power generators, but only if they are form a junkyard, not off the shelf where the price is not better than a windmill. Also car alternators they may be higher powered than what's possible to harvest via a small windmill, and only if you live near a steep slope river may they be economical, or you run a steam engine boiler on woodchip or corn pellet burner, or have means to put up one of them huger windmills on your property instead of a dinky 25W-100W one. Solar power is so much easier to just keep adding to your roof - buy 100W today, another 100W tomorrow, til you end up with 2000W-20,000W easy. You probably need a 20,000W peak power supply that runs at 5000W average if you want to cover air conditioner use and cooking (but don't forget about a possibly even greater cost of basement battery storage.)

Note that I presently get electric from the utility at $0.135/kWh (meaning 1000W for 1 hr costs me 13.5 cents , besides the tolerable $5 minimum charge.)

So let's compare that to household items:
https://www.daftlogic.com/info...

Hair dryer: 1800 W (maximum per wall socket allowed by UL, 120V x 15A, circuit breaker trips in basement at 20A.)
Typical microwave: 1000W-1500W.
Typical electric hotplate: 1000W (mine advertised at 1000W uses 900W as running, but cooks faster from better thermal contact than the old one at 1100W)
Typical window air conditioner unit: 1000W
Typical refrigerator-freezer: 150W-400W.

My water distillation rig: 180

Yeah. I bought a solar powered fountain pump at harbor freight back in the good days when I thought I had a lot of money, wasn't sick and had no credit card debt. Still have it. The thing comes with a centrifugal pump that will pump water only about a foot high - I guess it's enough to aerate a pond, for free. The actual website description http://www.harborfreight.com/s... says peak output power is 1.2W. Yeah, 1.2W on a full sunny bright day, like they have in San Diego. You can probably get 0.5W power out of it. But let's keep that 1.2W number in mind.

Here is ebay $111 12V 100W solar panel selling like hotcakes on ebay from missouri wind and solar: http://www.ebay.com/itm/371071....
Here is ebay $45 12V 35W etc, http://www.ebay.com/itm/371418... that I have contemplated buying for LED TV, laptops and LED house lights off of. Of course on home made batteries, or at least car jumping powerpack, including an cigarette light socket inverter that makes 110VAC from 12VDC.

Compare those above prices for the more accessible and tangible to a customer harbor freight stuff:
Here is $200 12V 45W solar panel http://www.harborfreight.com/4... . Yeah it includes some gadgets like an inverter and some LED lights bling bling, that you can probably buy on ebay for like $25 directly from China. Still, $200 for 45W max? (on a bright sunny day at noon, 9AM or 5PM it's probably 10-20W, and on a cloudy day probably 1W.)

Wind power deals with similar price/watt issues, plus moving parts that fail faster than solar panels, so solar is kind of growing faster, especially in the bright sunny desert areas, compared to wind. But wind works on a cloudy day, and especially at night too. But as a home user expect to deal with 100W or so capacities under optimum (rare) conditions, once in a blue moon, not reliable, especially cannot be relied on now now when you need it now, especially without awesome storage.

You can run a lot of small motors backwards, and may get 10-20W power via a handcrank or a windmill out of the larger ones from older heavy duty dot matrix printers or hand vacuum cleaners, if they are properly constructed DC motors, and car alternators are possibly the cheapest form of bulk power generators, but only if they are form a junkyard, not off the shelf where the price is not better than a windmill. Also car alternators they may be higher powered than what's possible to harvest via a small windmill, and only if you live near a steep slope river may they be economical, or you run a steam engine boiler on woodchip or corn pellet burner, or have means to put up one of them huger windmills on your property instead of a dinky 25W-100W one. Solar power is so much easier to just keep adding to your roof - buy 100W today, another 100W tomorrow, til you end up with 2000W-20,000W easy. You probably need a 20,000W peak power supply that runs at 5000W average if you want to cover air conditioner use and cooking (but don't forget about a possibly even greater cost of basement battery storage.)

Note that I presently get electric from the utility at $0.135/kWh (meaning 1000W for 1 hr costs me 13.5 cents , besides the tolerable $5 minimum charge.)

So let's compare that to household items:
https://www.daftlogic.com/info...

Hair dryer: 1800 W (maximum per wall socket allowed by UL, 120V x 15A, circuit breaker trips in basement at 20A.)
Typical microwave: 1000W-1500W.
Typical electric hotplate: 1000W (mine advertised at 1000W uses 900W as running, but cooks faster from better thermal contact than the old one at 1100W)
Typical window air conditioner unit: 1000W
Typical refrigerator-freezer: 150W-400W.

My water distillation rig: 180

It's not e-ink, but thats why I got the nook 9" (for Text Books and game PDFs). Amazon's price is a little steep for the Nook HD+ 16GB (refurbished) , a little more than I paid for the 32GB refurbished 2+ years ago. EBAY has an 8GB Nook, for a semi-reasonable price (as they all have microSD slots).

I just read the spec. It might be more accurate to say this API allows USB devices to offer data of their choosing to whitelisted web scripts. The USB device decides what data it gives to whom; web sites can't do anything with random USB devices that don't explicitly offer web endpoints. At the end of the day, it actually doesn't effect security in a fundamental way at all - USB devices can ALREADY send arbitrary data to web pages, just in an ad-hoc way rather than a well-defined , standardized way.

In a way, it's a lot like first- party cookies , with the data on the usb device rather than on the hard drive.

The USB device defines:
https://login.ebay.com/ may ask me for "username".

No other web site can get anything from the USB device, and the whitelisted URL can only request the specified data item.

Security considerations are of course important. At the same time, JavaScript can ALREADY read your most important USB devices - it can see your keyboard presses and mouse movements. If a USB device wants to send data to a web page, it can already declare itself to be a keyboard and start sending keypresses. (Credit card readers have done exactly this for decades, pretending to be keyboards .) This API defines a standardized way for the USB device to send data in a more secure way than by pretending to be a keyboard.

Yes, one should consider security. With this, primary the security of the USB device- it's one other way for a malicious USB device to do bad things. But USB devices can ALREADY pretend to be a keyboard, use a hotkey sequence to fire up cmd.exe, and run any commands they want. Malicious USB devices are really bad with or without this new API, so the API doesn't increase risk by much.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/hammer...

Both? :-D

And I've read in a few places it costs around $15,000 or so to break on just this level; but I'm really confused as to why the FBI doesn't already own such devices since they seem to be for sale on Cellebrite's website. And their even on Ebay for only $256!

Ebay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shakes...

lifespan?

I found this. I used it for a project at work once.

on ebay

Ok in fairness, a Samsung Galaxy S4 isn't exactly a $100 phone, or it didn't used to be.

Is $150 close enough? Brand new S4!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsun...

The Galaxy S4 will do over 3 gigaflops, faster than the Cray Y-MP! :)

---

Consider the Cray came with up to 512MB of RAM (original model D), the Galaxy S4 comes with 2GB of RAM.

There is also the issue that the Galaxy S4 is *slightly* lighter and easier to carry around than the Cray Y-MP was. :)

---

As for "graphics is cheating!", it might be, but only just... if you have an application that can run on OpenCL and will run on AMD graphics cards, consider that the AMD R9 295x2 has over 11 teraflops of compute performance.

Consider that ASIC Red was powered by more than 9,000 CPUs, cost over $50 million, and only ended up with a max of 2.38 teraflops.

---

Anyway, wrist-slap taken. Next time I'll do a little due diligence...

Aww, I didn't mean it that harshly, I also get that there is more to the overall performance of a machine that just raw compute. I/O speed, RAM, storage, OS, etc. all play their parts.

And lets be honest, if you really tried to run a Galaxy S4 24/7 at full speed, it would probably melt. :)

Sounds like the kind of thing you'd get a lot more money for today because it's easier to find buyers using eBay. Looks like a first edition Wolverine is anywhere from $300-$4000 alone, depending on the particular magazine and grade. I guess a lot depends on the source of the collection, if they bagged mint editions it'll be worth much more than used magazines that then were collected for preservation. Pretty sure you did a good investment.

As I've told you before, social engineering the passcode wouldn't seem hard IF you think you have a TIME MACHINE.


Knowing McAfee, it would probably be in his hot tub.

You can find dumps of the last generation of open compute stuff on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Pri...

new username

Sure the guy is a scumbag, but anyone buying from him deserves to be taken advantage of.

People list things for far more than what they are worth all the time.

I was looking to buy a Model A and look what I came across this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-M...

The rusted out body of a Model A for 18K+ when you can buy a beautiful fully restored working Model As for as little 16,000

If you don't shop around expect to be taken advantage of.

In defense of that guy, a lot of people don't know what something is worth, or understand that they need to price their products at market level. If you get angry at overpriced Ebay listings, don't go shopping on Craigslist for anything with a steep depreciation curve. Sometimes the prices are laughable.

Sure the guy is a scumbag, but anyone buying from him deserves to be taken advantage of.

People list things for far more than what they are worth all the time.

I was looking to buy a Model A and look what I came across this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-M...

The rusted out body of a Model A for 18K+ when you can buy a beautiful fully restored working Model As for as little 16,000

If you don't shop around expect to be taken advantage of.

I got my pi2 a few weeks ago for 37.99 including shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261834...
took about 4 days to get here and have been having a blast with it. So yah it was worth the extra 2.99.

Yeah, it's just false advertising saying you can get it for $5. You can get them, they are available, but for more like $20 - $30. Example: ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raspbe...

You could use a OTG SD, or OTG cable and flash drive(s) for those times.

$2

Ubiquiti mPower 8-Port Power Strip Ethernet WiFi. Turn on or off any device from anywhere in the world. $98 for 8 devices = $12.25 per device.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121863...

Sadly I now want a collection of their patches. I do wonder if this is one though.

I don't pay any attention to fanless, but refurb Cisco and other high-end gear can often be had for a song.
Liquid-8 Technology has some deals. http://stores.ebay.com/Liquid-...

It's a T87. They still make them, but are no longer allowed to use the mercury switch.

Potassium chloride, aka salt substitute, in solution.

Install a large, 10cc syringe in the nose of a small drone, equipped with a tiny camera so you can guide it, JDAM style. Fly it high into the sky, so it can cut the noisy motor, glide over the target area, then silently dive out of the sun. You can make it out of plastic cardboard.

If you can hit, then the target is finished. No alarming explosions, no panic, no screaming. Silent death from the sky.

Don't you realize they're talking about two different things?

One is talking about lamps which have strings of tiny LEDs for "filaments". These LED lamps are particularly popular with people who like the look of traditional incandescent bulbs. Something like this.

The other is talking about LED strips. These are typically sold in 5m lengths, with 30 or 60 individual LEDs per meter. There are different fixed colors and also RGB strips with alternating red, green and blue LEDs or red, green and blue in each multicolor chip package. The most popular type uses 5050 size LEDs (5mm by 5mm). These LED strips typically wire three LEDs in series with a resistor to get the right current at 12V, so you can cut them after each group of three LEDs.

Don't you realize they're talking about two different things?

One is talking about lamps which have strings of tiny LEDs for "filaments". These LED lamps are particularly popular with people who like the look of traditional incandescent bulbs. Something like this.

The other is talking about LED strips. These are typically sold in 5m lengths, with 30 or 60 individual LEDs per meter. There are different fixed colors and also RGB strips with alternating red, green and blue LEDs or red, green and blue in each multicolor chip package. The most popular type uses 5050 size LEDs (5mm by 5mm). These LED strips typically wire three LEDs in series with a resistor to get the right current at 12V, so you can cut them after each group of three LEDs.

I'm guessing the $3 price is in volume (10k or 100k+). There are a number of eBay listings under $3, but I wouldn't rely on eBay as a steady supply stream or for good documentation and support.

My preferred hobby vendors (because they've been supportive to me over the years; I'm not affiliated with them) are SparkFun and AdaFruit. SparkFun has them for $6.95, while AdaFruit has a hacker-friendly version for $9.95 and a surface-mount version for $6.95.

CP/M machines are readily available on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html...

Click buy it now, whip out the credit card, wait for delivery.

If you make handcuffs, don't expect any business from me.

I wanted to post an article about companies making handcuffs and then turning it around and saying "aha! you buy other stuff from this company", but I came across this:

HANDCUFF COLLECTING-Why collect them?-How to spot fakes
It includes gems like

Union Hardware-Tower Handcuff Company became the "Ford" of handcuffs and Bean cuffs were the "Chevy".

If an available cuff is described as "Old West" or "Slave Shackles" and said to have been found in an old barn from the Deep South or the seller's Great Grandfather was a Sheriff in Dodge City and used to lock up someone like Billy the Kid, use caution.

It is fact that cuffs made in the early 19th and 20th century were beautiful works of art and were precise as well as smooth. The junk being past off these days as real are crude and rough.

Another area to use extreme caution in is the Ball and Chain.

I'm sure once I hit 50, I'll grow up.

I appreciate the spirit of what you are writing, but....

This wrench is non-sparking Be-Cu and is pretty cheap!

Actually, this pretty much already exists. Go buy a $1 OTG USB cable and a $25 wired Xbox 360 controller and it just works. Or, you can get something like this for $12.
 
It's not that there's lack of controller support in terms of hardware or the OS. It's just that game companies aren't rolling out support for them.

He/she/it needs an ABCDE keyboard... http://www.ebay.com/itm/BigKey...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/PC-Des...

Or ny other place yo by second hand stuff.

I'm neither delusional nor a hand-me-down moocher.

I didn't spend a lot of time searching for an example because I don't need to waste hours to prove a point. Here is a 6 core in the ballpark of the stated price. If you spend some time, you can find listings that weren't well described, scratch and dent, short sale, and a ton of reasons why they sell for crazy cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/381478...

That's just a quick example. I regularly locate much more capable machines at lower prices. If you believe you must pay market value for everything you buy, perhaps it is you that is delusional, sir. There are people that make millions buying low and selling high. If you spend less time insulting random people on slashdot, perhaps you'd have more time to find better deals.

Get one of these for around a hundred bucks and overclock the shit out of it to get within a hair's breadth of one of these for a fraction of the price.

Also, read this for details.

Get one of these for around a hundred bucks and overclock the shit out of it to get within a hair's breadth of one of these for a fraction of the price.

Also, read this for details.

One guy sold a pretty new 2014 S85D on eBay for $70,000 and here are listings for quite a few more

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html...

or you can get one through the company's certified pre-owned listings at http://www.teslamotors.com/mod...

You piqued my curiosity so I plugged the part numbers for the ICs into eBay and got back the same thing for ten bucks shipped. If I were already doing a newegg order, though, I might well toss one in from them so as to get it this month.

We had 2000' of string and flew it once in a dust storm.

Timex Ironman 50 lap watch:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timex-...

That watch trained me through at least 10 marathons and a couple Ironmans. I had a Garmin GPS watch + Heartrate monitor for a while, but I found myself paying more attention to it than just paying attention to my body.

50 splits so I can get splits for each mile of the marathon. The "Flix" backlight was handy for night runs so a flick of the wrist turns on the light. Battery lasts for years, and the watch is 100% waterproof (which is more than I can say for the Garmin - I had to send it back for repair twice when water got inside)

You can find new old stock UK-layout Amiga 1200 keyboards on eBay for a reasonable price. All that's missing is the Help key, and the Power/Floppy/HD LEDs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-...

For $2,500, you can buy a whole Slurpee machine.

No, there isn't. Each generation of Ultegra has different and totally incompatible name plates. It's a well-known Shimano "thing".

I have the early 9 speed Ultegra ST-6510. The only parts on eBay are 3D printed by some dude, and I ain't paying 30$ US (that's like 40$ CDN) for something that looks like THAT:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shiman...

I'd rather spend winter learning 3D CAD modelling and get them made in aluminum.

Or white

$2.26

> Seriously I see a 16 gig class 10 card on alibaba for $1 in bulk

Those are actually borderline useless 128MB microsd cards with the filesystem tweaked [1] to show up as 16 or 64GB

[1] http://www.ebay.com/gds/All-Ab...