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Need... More... Power...

MikeDawg writes "After dealing with the headache of never having enough electrical outlets, not having a cable TV coaxial, not having a telephone hookup in the right places of my apartment, I found this article at CNN. It is nice to see that college dorm rooms are getting filled with outlets to provide students with enough hook-ups with for all their electronics. My question to you (renters/dorm-room dwellers) is does your dorm room or apartment have enough outlets, whether it be electrical, cable, telephone, or anything else you may need? What do you do in a situation like this? Do you load up each socket with a 10+ port power strip (or battery backup as it may be) and pray that you don't knock-out the circuit everytime you start burning a CD?"

437 comments

  1. Well... by JoeBaldwin · · Score: 5, Funny

    Remember that Slashdot story a while back, about the guy who made a fusion generator in his dorm room?

    He made it for fun: I NEED it :)

    1. Re:Well... by deragon · · Score: 0, Offtopic

      Yep, but just to correct you a little, it was a fission reactor, not a fusion reactor.

      Would he have built a fusion reactor, we would know is name by heart, as the rest of the planet, like we know Einstein.

      --
      Remember the year 2000? They promised us flying cars. They delivered the PT Cruiser...
    2. Re:Well... by another_henry · · Score: 5, Informative
      Incorrect. Fusion reactors can and are being made by amateurs. I'm making one myself at the moment, still in the design stages though :)

      None of these produce any usable power of course.

      --
      "Studies have shown that people who eat peanuts live longer than those who do not eat."
    3. Re:Well... by useosx · · Score: 4, Interesting

      My last apartment both my roommate and I would lose power (and thus our poor boxen would lose data) every time we used the microwave too high or too long. First solution: battery backups (10 bucks each with Staples rebates, g-d bless).

      So no more data loss, but still an annoyance. Then I was stupidly toying with the inside of the light switch for the living room and sparks flew and I blew the circuit. Lucky for us, this led me to discover that there was a 3rd circuit (yes, two circuits was not nearly enough*) for our floor dedicated to a single light bulb that must have been added years after all the other electrical stuff.

      So we ran to Home Depot (g-d bless you overpriced bastards) and back and hacked in a 4-port outlet and we were golden ever since.

      So the moral of the story: when you don't have enough outlets, make more. As a geek you have a instinctive understanding of electricity.

      *The ancient washer and drying in the basement would trip the other circuit if they ran together

    4. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      g-d? Wouldn't that be ^C, or if you prefer, ETX?

    5. Re:Well... by merdark · · Score: 1

      I seem to remember reading about this. I think it was in the same ballpark as those new energy devices. As in not real science.

      Fusion is undergoing serious research, and when we say fusion reactor, we mean a device which uses fusion to produce usable electricity. Regardless of whether these amature fusion devices actually fuse anything, the don't produce power and likely never will.

      Hence, they are not fusion rectors in the normal sense.

    6. Re:Well... by orangesquid · · Score: 3, Interesting

      Our dorm has something like six pairs of recepticles, and we have 11-outlet strips plugged into each and every one to power my many boxen. We're not allowed to use extension cords or piggyback surges strips, so we have to be careful and plan very well...

      I also haven't turned on all the machines at once, because I'm fairly sure it would kill the circuit. I used to have half of these machines spread in my basement, and the load they would generate if they all switched on simultaneously, as the drives and fans were spinning up, was enormous; it would trip the breaker every time.

      --
      --TheOrangeSquid Is it any wonder things seem so awry? We swim in a sea of confusion and don't have to think to survive
    7. Re:Well... by merdark · · Score: 2, Insightful

      So the moral of the story: when you don't have enough outlets, make more. As a geek you have a instinctive understanding of electricity.

      Umm. This is a dangerous suggestion man. Geeks may have an understanding of electricity, but certainly not instinctive. Unless a geek is an engineer or physics major, they probably shouldn't go fooling with building circuitry.

      Then again, if we rid the world of a bunch of geeks, then there will be less competition for those tech jobs eh?

      Weasly idea. Good one.

    8. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Make sure they are in graduate programs before they screw with live mains. It will improve the breed.

      Tell me why high-school dropouts can be trusted to build houses, cars, wire complex buildings and run heavy equipment; and PhDs can't figure out how to change a simple wall outlet or check the oil in their car?

      Don't believe me? go to any Big-box home improvement store and ask the long-suffering "experts"

    9. Re:Well... by thgreatoz · · Score: 1

      Regardless of what YOU are doing, the parent post is correct...the subject of his post was building a fission reactor, not a fusion one.

      --
      When their numbers dwindled from 50 to 8, the dwarves began to suspect Hungry.
    10. Re:Well... by H310iSe · · Score: 1

      " Do you load up each socket with a 10+ port power strip (or battery backup as it may be) and pray that you don't knock-out the circuit everytime you start burning a CD?"

      Short answer yes with an '...um', long answer definately with a *blush*. Now we just chain powerstrips together (only noticable impact - the lights in the house pulseate whenever the LaserJet 4 gets cranking) but this is much, much better than in college when my neighbor and friend had his outlets jury-rigged with one plug barely making contact hanging from the outlet and another plug (taped) across the exposed tongs of the first. Of course that guy rigged his car electircal system with paperclips and pennies (ressulting in a dramatic car-retiring fire in the student parking lot).

      Electricity is here to serve us. For Some it just has to work harder than for others.

      --
      closed minded is as closed minded does
    11. Re:Well... by Dun+Malg · · Score: 3, Insightful
      Tell me why high-school dropouts can be trusted to build houses, cars, wire complex buildings and run heavy equipment; and PhDs can't figure out how to change a simple wall outlet or check the oil in their car?

      They fancy themselves "intelligent enough" to figure it out on their own and don't expect it to be at all complicated because, after all, uneducated folks do it. They then get stuck in this mindset and won't listen to explainations that sound "complicated" because they've already decided it should be easy. My father, an electrical engineer, was surprised when I showed him my electrician's reference book containing formulas for things like load balancing. He thought, for big jobs, electricians worked off pre-made plans drawn up by someone "educated" who did the calculations for them. I imagine many PhDs think carpenters don't know anything about structural engineering, or that auto mechanics are totally ignorant of mechanical engineering. Ivory-tower arrogance can sometimes work just like thick-headed stupidity.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    12. Re:Well... by Josuah · · Score: 1

      Fusion reactors can and are being made by amateurs. I'm making one myself at the moment, still in the design stages though :)

      None of these produce any usable power of course.


      Well, I'm sure amateur nuclear physicist looks good on your resume anyway. :D

    13. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I seem to remember reading about this. I think it was in the same ballpark as those new energy devices. As in not real science.

      It's quite real, nothing magical about it. At least one company makes a neutron generator based on the fusor principle.

      Fusion is undergoing serious research, and when we say fusion reactor, we mean a device which uses fusion to produce usable electricity.

      Well, if you're going to change the definitions to prove your arguments, then nobody has ever built a fusion reactor because none of the experiments to date have produced any usable electricity.

    14. Re:Well... by Xerithane · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I think the people who are most guilty of this are the "geeks." I see a lot of this stuff happen all the time, where the computer literate attempts to make a simple concept much more difficult in effort to make themselves look good.

      It pisses me off when people choose to explain otherwise simple concepts in very complicated terms. Then, you have to deal with the aftermath, where people are so convinced that computers are a difficult thing.

      I was explaining a rackmount chassis to my girlfriend, and she kept saying, "I don't know anything about computers." I kept telling her, "What I'm talking about has virtually nothing to do with computers. I'm talking about a metal box that you screw to a rack. You know what a closet is, and a shoebox, just listen to what I'm saying."

      Took me forever to break down the computer==difficult wall, but she finally will actually listen, and understand that it really isn't all that difficult.

      --
      Dacels Jewelers can't be trusted.
    15. Re:Well... by Josh+Booth · · Score: 1

      Yeah, but geeks usually understand that "Hmm, my powerstip probably can't carry an infinite amount of electricity, so why don't I use another socket instead of daisy-chaining powerstrips." and maybe even know by experience: "The breaker kicked last time I tried to microwave a burrito, watch TV, toast toast, run the AC, and burn a CD." Many people wouldn't even realize the first thing, and even fewer probably have tried to do the second. And honestly, what geek (except art, lit, history, and philosophy geeks) don't already have a basic understanding of electricity?

    16. Re:Well... by UserGoogol · · Score: 2, Funny

      If I have to teach Lambda Calculus in order to tell people how to burn CDs, then so be it.

      --
      "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity." -- Hanlon's Razor
    17. Re:Well... by cheekyboy · · Score: 1

      Hang on, each PC would use 250watts, if you use a hair dryer thats 2400 watts, so you can easily power 10 PCs.

      As long as the whole load isnt above 10amps.

      Yes I hate having too many devices.... switch is powered,adslrouter,wifi has its own power plug, vcr,tv,laptop,pc,,mobiles charger,printers.

      its really a mess. Having a adsl-switch-wifi box would help.

      In future I might consider laptop only setups since they are getting great power now, with a kick-ass fileserver to help offset storage/burners issues and all the stuff laptops cant do.

      --
      Liberty freedom are no1, not dicks in suits.
    18. Re:Well... by merdark · · Score: 1

      True, but a basic understanding of electricity really doesn't equip one that well with working with wires. I know the first time that I tried to strip a wire it was quite difficult for instance. And if the wires are not spliced properly with some sort of protective covering (at least electrical tape) it could be a fire hazzard.

      Theory and practise can be very different sometimes. Any geek that tries to rewire their house should definatly go read some material that explains the practical dos and don'ts.

      Also, there are many regulations that need to be met. For instance I think the kitchen and stove needs an exclusive circuit or something. The bathroom also needs special outlets. In fact, there is a good chance that some of these apartments are wired illegaly if the stove can cause your the circiut that your computer is on to blow.

      And finally, a geek who is renting (most students do) is probably not even *allowed* to go messing with the building's electricity and could get in some trouble if they do.

      All in all, it's a pretty dangerous recommendation to make. I'd recommend that people talk to their land lord first. And *if* they are allowed to make modifications (and their land lord doesn't have to or won't), *then* make sure they read up on regulations, the practise of splicing wires, and really study the cirtuit layout. And adding a totally new circuit, well, I don't have any clue how one would go about doing that officially. I'm sure there must be rules.

    19. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      So the moral of the story: when you don't have enough outlets, make more. As a geek you have a instinctive understanding of electricity.

      Mod +5 Future Darwin Award Winner

    20. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Your girlfriend is stupid.

    21. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      At least he has one... :-(

      BTW, anyone want to sign this petition for a desktop Pentium M?

    22. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    23. Re:Well... by cloudmaster · · Score: 1
      For instance I think the kitchen and stove needs an exclusive circuit or something. The bathroom also needs special outlets.

      You're thinking about the requirement for GFCI outlets, probably. Most areas require that new instalations of outlets within some distance of a water source (usually about the length of the typical appliance cord) be GFCI-protected. Kitchens have sinks, and bathrooms have sinks 'n tubs, both of which have water in them regularly.


      You're probably right, though, that some geeks *don't* have an understanding of home wiring. The person causing sparks to fly when he was messing with a light switch, for example, clearly isn't aware that power should be turned off *before* working on a switch - not *by* working on the switch. ;)

    24. Re:Well... by McLoud · · Score: 1
      As a geek you have a instinctive understanding of electricity.

      Yeah, just green with green, blue with blue, red with red.... Hey! turn it off now cause its burning!!

      --
      sign(c14n(envelop(this)), x509)
    25. Re:Well... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      FYI, if you did that, and you're renting, you can get in trouble for that (lose security deposit at least) and you could forfeit insurance if something goes wrong...

      If you're too stupid to change a switch w/o checking the power first, then you're obviously not qualified to be deciding where to put, or install, recepticles.

  2. Serious answer by Pingular · · Score: 4, Funny

    have you considered using a bicycle generator? i.e where you have to pedal for 5 hours a week to charge up a battery which can supply enough power for a TV for an hour or so?

    --

    When anger rises, think of the consequences.
    Confucius (551 BC - 479 BC)
    1. Re:Serious answer by Randolpho · · Score: 1

      Heh... reminds me of Soylent Green. Before long, we'll be eating delicious Soulent Green crackers!

      mmmm! Yummy! I wonder what's in 'em?

      --
      "Times have not become more violent. They have just become more televised."
      -Marilyn Manson
    2. Re:Serious answer by Wolfier · · Score: 1

      Seriously, I consider hamster wheels a vastly superior form of power source than bicycles.

      1. You don't have to work it out.
      2. Hamsters are cheap.
      3. Excretions and dead bodies can be burnt for power.
      4. Geez, they're FAST!! Just take a look at how they work at the wheels and be excited at how much power they'll generate.

  3. Nope by Kadmium · · Score: 3, Interesting

    I must say that I don't have enough power in my room. There's only one outlet here and I run a PC, (musical) keyboard, guitar effects kit, DSL modem, clock, etc etc. I have a power strip plugged into another power strip. An interesting side effect is that when I turn on my fan, my USB hub reboots.

    1. Re:Nope by AllUsernamesAreGone · · Score: 2, Insightful

      It's also very dangerous, and may be against your institutions fire or helath and safety rules.

    2. Re:Nope by baryon351 · · Score: 1

      I've never had a problem. Yet.

      I do a basic count of how much power there is to use, and don't go over it. At the moment out of the 2400watts I can pull from a wall socket I'd use about 1800 if every device used its maximum power, and that's extremely unlikely.

      If I were to plug the 2 servers that I currently have in another room into this wall, then I could have problems, but apart from the power requirements the noise is a good enough reason for them to be off across the house.

    3. Re:Nope by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      > At the moment out of the 2400watts I can pull from
      > a wall socket

      Whoa there a minute. NO NO NO! I've heard numbers like this quoted and there is no WAY you can safely drag anywhere near 2400 watts, let alone 1800 from a wall socket.

      Either your counting is wrong, or you're damned near a fire hazard. I'd advice you to rewire things right NOW.

    4. Re:Nope by Mr+Smidge · · Score: 3, Insightful

      Ahh, I had a friend in much the same situation as you last year.. for an entire room, he had only two sockets in the wall. So he promptly daisy-chained together a couple of extension cables to accomodate his desktop computer (with 400W PSU, I might add), monitor, lamps, toaster, kettle, blender, laptop, 150W stereo hifi amp.. The room actually hummed, and similarly to you, the lights in the room would dim whenever he switched on too many things.

      I have 6 plugs to work with (compared to 4 this year), which is just about ample for me with a few extension cables. I had a rather worrying incident last year when my computer would randomly lose power and go off whenever somebody switched on too many appliances downstairs.. But the one time that I switched my computer on in the morning and heard a loud *BANG* (had to replace the PSU after that), I thought again about the power situation.

      Certainly in my case, there really should be more power in rooms.. and not only that but perhaps some safer wiring too - there are a lot of old buildings here that have electrical wiring that's just as old!

    5. Re:Nope by Fembot · · Score: 1

      Its kinda weird, we have a 60amp supply + an off peak supply to this house, and still one of the microwaves in the kitchen makes all the kitchen lights dim. Same with the water heater on the top floor too. As for sockets in my room I have no real complaints there. They're positioned fairly sensibly too, either side of my desk (which is huge). What i'd really like though is some cat5 cabling in the walls instead. Currently we have a switch on each floor and cables just running tucked up against the skirting board to the rooms themselves, and tied to the banisters on the stairs.

    6. Re:Nope by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      thats odd, cause i have my electric fan heater here thats 2200 watts.

    7. Re:Nope by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Informative

      Hi! Did you ever hear about .... OTHER COUNTRIES??? Oh I don't know, where they use 220 volts??????

    8. Re:Nope by Dr.+Evil · · Score: 3, Insightful

      People say that, but it doesn't make any sense. North American outlets are generally rated and have breakers/fuses for 15A. Breakers on power bars are generally rated for 10A. Plugging a power bar into a power bar into a power bar, and sucking a few watts here and a few watts there with silly fat transformers driving wimpy low-power devices shouldn't cause any problems at all.

      As soon as you hit 10A, your first breaker goes. As soon as you hit 15, the branch circuit breaker goes.

      How is this dangerous?

      Now if you're one of those nuts who's response to blowing a breaker is to put in a bigger breaker, then you'll heat up your wiring in the walls, make the insulation brittle and weak, until some day the insulation cracks, a short appears and that over-rated wire surrounded by dry, warm building materials bursts into flames.

    9. Re:Nope by OolonColluphid · · Score: 1

      That sounds like my apartment. I didn't realize until I started moving in that there is only one outlet in each room of this place, except for the kitchen and living room. The kitchen has what is the only new wiring (and only 3 prong outlets) on the entire floor. The rest is the original, although circuit breakers were put in at some point. The living room has three outlets, but one of them doesn't work. The power strip for the television and stereo is running off of a 20 foot appliance extension to the outlet on the other side of the room. In my room, I've got a computer, printer, speakers, a mixing board, guitar amp, DAT recorder, 8-track recorder, two cassette decks, a lamp and a wall fan running off one outlet. Needless to say, we'll be apartment hunting again when the lease is about to expire. We haven't tripped a breaker yet or blown a power strip, but the computers act a little funny sometimes.

    10. Re:Nope by calidoscope · · Score: 1
      At the moment out of the 2400watts I can pull from a wall socket I'd use about 1800 if every device used its maximum power, and that's extremely unlikely.

      What you mean is that you can draw 2400 Volt-Amps from your wall socket (watts = volt-amps x power-factor). If all of your loads are either resistive (incandescant lamps) or have PFC power supplies, then power will equal volt-amps.

      The 2400 VA figure implies that you have a 120V 20A circuit, bear in mind that 20A sockets are different from 15A sockets (instead of two straight connections, one looks like a sideways 'T'). Also bear in mind that a 15A socket is only rated for 12A continuous draw (about 1400 VA).

      If you're not in an area that follows North American power standards, you'll need to check with a local electrician to see what you can safely draw.

      --
      A Shadeless room is a brighter room.
    11. Re:Nope by dubiousmike · · Score: 1

      In my home office (I mean third bedroom) I have about 1000 watts of boxes running, a tv, cable box, printer, scanner, external cd burner and three monitors going on 2 outlets (in the same room, which in reality, is like one outlet if its on the same circuit).

      Whenever my wife vacumms (with our big tv, replaytv, vcr, dvd, and stereo going) she immediately trips a circuit.

      I think what is a bigger deal than a lack of plugs, is that most of us are using dirty power. If you aren't using a *good* battery backup that not only protects against surges but spikes, well, it makes me nervous to think about all of the wquiptment I have that is only using a $5 surge protector (which is likely only providing me with extra plugs and not protection.

      I had a Gateway computer that they replaced 5 times. Later I realized that the power was B-A-D. That's ok - I overpaid enough that I feel I made them jump through enough hoops to make up for it.

      I can't wait until I have my own house. Not only will I hopefully have clean power, but I can change to a higher amp breakers and a thicker gauge wire going from the electric box to the room(s) in question. I think most old houses have 10 amp circuits. 20 would be my personal minimum for a room with lots of computers/electrical equiptment.

      if your fan reboots your USB hub, there's a problem with your power strip. But that doesn't make it less funny. :)

    12. Re:Nope by operagost · · Score: 1
      But how many amps? W = V (A)

      Most circuits in the US are 15-20A. You'll usually have several 30A circuits for the heavier stuff like appliances.

      --

      Gamingmuseum.com: Give your 3D accelerator a rest.
    13. Re:Nope by CyberSlugGump · · Score: 1

      When I moved into one of my university's older dorms for my sophomore year (2001), the room only had 2-prong outlets!

      We were expected (but not told in advance) to bring 3-prong to 2-prong adapters. There was no way I was going to use those--my UPS unit in particular said it had to be plugged into a properly grounded outlet.

      Fortunately, I was able to get one of the maintenance men to update one of my outlets!

    14. Re:Nope by swankypimp · · Score: 1
      When I was in grad school, the only place I could afford was in a rooming house that had two outlets per room, with every two rooms sharing a circuit. This wasn't a problem for everyone in the house except for me, with my two mini-refrigerators, microwave, and three computers that ran 24 / 7 (hey, they were servers, I couldn't just turn them off...)

      Every once in a while the draw of opening the fridge (compressor kicks on) plus the HIGH microwave setting would blow the fuse. So whenever I wanted to eat something I either had to shut down the web server (yeah right) or check if the guy next door had saved whatever Microsoft Word document he was writing for class, just in case.

      --

      --All your stolen base are belong to Rickey Henderson
    15. Re:Nope by MerlynEmrys67 · · Score: 1

      maybe in dorms - however in my EE labs in college - the rooms were wired like this... if anyone did anything wrong - all the power strips would blow and the room would be "instantly" safe.

      --
      I have mod points and I am not afraid to use them
    16. Re:Nope by HalfFlat · · Score: 1

      I believe in Australia (240VAC, 50Hz) each outlet is typically rated for 10A (2.4kW) but each circuit is rated for a total of 30A. Power boards and the like with a breaker are generally set to trip at the 10A mark, give or take 15% :/

      I'd like to confirm these figures, but you have to pay for the standard, even in electronic form! grr! I think it's a bit rough to charge for access to legal standards m'self.

    17. Re:Nope by TiggsPanther · · Score: 1

      I don't live in a dorm, but my "computer room" at home was just as bad - originally.

      There was a room far too small be be of use as a real bedroom, so my parents let me use it as a computer/office room. But it also only had one double-socket available. I was having to daisy-chain my power-strips - much against my better judgement.

      I was eventually able to get more sockets put in. but it wasn't as easy as it oculd have been. Not only do I not (yet) know how to (safely) do the job myself, but we don't own our house. The church does (my dad's a minister).
      Finally my dad bullied the property-guy to get an electrician in. The room now has about 8 wall-sockets. Much better.

      OK, I still have to uise power-strips, but I can run them a lot safer now by...

      • Plugging the strips into the wall, not other strips.
      • Plugging the computers/monitors directly into the wall, using the strips for other items.
      Not perfect, but a whole lot better.

      It also freed up my 10-gang power-strip, which now sits in my bedroom meaning that I didn't have to daisy-chain the strips in there, either.

      Of course, when I finally get a place of my own, I'll make sure they all have enough sockets, and teh circuits are balanced well.
      And seeing that i might not still know enough myself by then, I'll defintely be getting advice from someone who does. (And that's usually how I start learning)

      Tiggs
      --
      Tiggs
      "120 chars should be enough for everyone..."
    18. Re:Nope by Ithika · · Score: 1
      If you're not in an area that follows North American power standards...

      Well, that could apply to the whole of the EU (230VAC) and Australia (240VAC I believe), so it's not outside of the bounds of possibility.

      - ithika.

    19. Re:Nope by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      So what'd he do just replace the box with a three pronger without grounding? Probably.

  4. *crackle-smoke* by Beardydog · · Score: 0

    Four screens, two boxes, wired through my stereo, cable modem, router, VCR running to one of the screens...

    I just realized I'm using 3 powerstrips, and I'm probably responsible for more powerdrain in my house than every other appliance combined...

    Meh.

  5. This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by The-Pheon · · Score: 3, Funny
    My question to you (renters/dorm-room dwellers) is does your dorm room or apartment have enough outlets, whether it be electrical, cable, telephone, or anything else you may need?

    Of Course not! I'm a geek :O)

    What do you do in a situation like this? Do you load up each socket with a 10+ port power strip (or battery backup as it may be) and pray that you don't knock-out the circuit everytime you start burning a CD?

    yes, of course!

    Dorm rooms and small apartments don't lend themselves to large power generators. Maybe you can get a excercise bike and hook up a line! :)

    1. Re:This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by jackb_guppy · · Score: 1

      You are right... The turbine a lone would take a floor. Then there is Wind Power was the warmth of the computer cause the air to raise.

    2. Re:This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What do you do in a situation like this? Do you load up each socket with a 10+ port power strip (or battery backup as it may be) and pray that you don't knock-out the circuit everytime you start burning a CD?

      yes, of course!


      What!? I thought all geeks were familiar with "plug and pray".

    3. Re:This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by JDWTopGuy · · Score: 1

      I don't live in a dorm, and this is not a rental.... but it's a tiny space (in a big house) AND IT'S ALL MINE! HAHAHHAHAAA! Oops, sorry.

      I've got an ancient UPS with four outlets connected to a four-outlet box, giving me 7 usable outlets off of that (one happens to be free because I'm not using two monitors at the moment). I also have a power strip with a 90MHz pentium box, it's modem, and my powerbook's A/C adapter.

      What's plugged into the UPS? One 17" monitor, an Athlon XP box with a 420 watt PS, an old Compaq Deskpro (soon to be two), a Performa 575 which I don't use too often (but the battery is shot, so it must be plugged in in order to keep the time), and an A/C adapter for my 8-port hub (four ports used right now).

      That adds up to five, so now I'm wondering WTF is hooked up to that other plug... probably a loose power cord with nothing connected. Oh, and there's one cord hooked into the same wall plate as the UPS, no idea what that is either. For all I know, I forgot a computer in here somewhere. *laugh track*

      Which is a bad thing, because that means it's not running distributed.net. *laugh track* I'll have to trace those cords later... *mission impossible theme*

      --
      Ron Paul 2012
    4. Re:This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      You have got to be the most annoying person I've ever seen on slashdot *crowd cheers and applauds in agreement*. You should be stoned *crowd starts throwing stones at you*. Please go back to the AOL boards you came from.

    5. Re:This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I don't live in a dorm, and this is not a rental...

      Translation: I am one of those losers that still lives with my mother.

    6. Re:This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by atheken · · Score: 1

      or,

      Just hook up an electric motor to the wall and the spindle to the bike-generator crank, and then batteries to the inductors on the bike, and Voila! unattended power generator.... er ... ah... hmm, nevermind.

    7. Re:This was an easy Ask Slashdot! by JDWTopGuy · · Score: 1

      Look who's talking.

      --
      Ron Paul 2012
  6. Good fire prevention policy by SexyKellyOsbourne · · Score: 5, Informative

    One of the reasons they're doing this is that students often tend to use multiple extensions on a single outlet, which is the second leading cause of fire deaths, according to this.

    In fact, the recent Moscow dorm fire that killed dozens and injured hundreds more was caused by such a fire, by a computer science student with dozens of electrical devices in his dorm. I suppose universities don't want such a thing to happen here.

    http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/nationworld/ 2001802164_dormfire27.html

    1. Re:Good fire prevention policy by maximilln · · Score: 0, Flamebait

      You're using socialist propaganda like "fire-extinguisher101.com" to support an argument about leading cause of fire deaths? It doesn't take an especially sharp scientist to know that those numbers are massaged in shameless self-promotion of that web-site.

      --
      +++ATHZ 99:5:80
    2. Re:Good fire prevention policy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      If they were trying to prevent this from happening then would the provide more circuits/outlets to prevent students from having to do this kind of thing?

      After that they would probably jack up the price in the name of safety.

    3. Re:Good fire prevention policy by nossid · · Score: 0

      I guess that is the reason there are no outlets in our wardrobes.

      As it is now we drill and fix our own outlets, any true computer science student (or any geek for that matter) will need a whole lot of outlets for the personal computer farm.

    4. Re:Good fire prevention policy by Minderbinder106 · · Score: 5, Funny

      Socialist propoganda? Why do socialists care if I put water on a grease fire or if I smoke in bed?

    5. Re:Good fire prevention policy by Jeff+DeMaagd · · Score: 2, Insightful

      I've heard about universities as much as ten years ago banning even just having a refrigerator because the wiring couldn't keep up with every room having a refrigerator.

      Rewiring old buildings is expensive, replacing them even more so, so people had to put up with restrictions. Many of these buildings may be several decades and possibly centuries old, so it may have been a while since the wiring has been given an update.

    6. Re:Good fire prevention policy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      It may be good policy, but not everyone is getting the benefits. Before I went abroad for the year I lived in an industrial fortress from the early 70s at 'The Big U'. Me and my roommate had to chose between stringing power strips together and risking death or swapping plugs manually depending on what we were using (ie either the printer or the tv but never at the same time). It's gotten rediculous.

    7. Re:Good fire prevention policy by humblecoder · · Score: 1


      One of the reasons they're doing this is that students often tend to use multiple extensions on a single outlet, which is the second leading cause of fire deaths, according to this.


      This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. The whole point of having a circuit breaker/fuse box is to limit the amount of current drawn on a particular circuit. If the current draw gets to be too big for the circuit to handle, then the breaker kicks in and power cuts off. I don't see where having multiple extensions would be any more of a fire hazard.

      By the way, the article on the Moscow dorm fire only states that fire officials suspect that the fire was caused by "electrical problems", which could mean that the wiring was old and fraying (the article states that the building was dilapidated so this isn't far fetched). Plus, the building had no fire alarms or sprinklers, and many residents used personal space heaters because the heat in the building was so poor. It sounds to me that multiple extensions was WAY DOWN the list of possible fire hazards.

    8. Re:Good fire prevention policy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      One of the reasons they're doing this is that students often tend to use multiple extensions on a single outlet, which is the second leading cause of fire deaths, according to this.

      Ummm, no, not according to that. The link says it's the third leading cause of fire deaths, with heating equipment as the second and smoking as the first.

    9. Re:Good fire prevention policy by Dun+Malg · · Score: 2, Informative
      This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. The whole point of having a circuit breaker/fuse box is to limit the amount of current drawn on a particular circuit. If the current draw gets to be too big for the circuit to handle, then the breaker kicks in and power cuts off. I don't see where having multiple extensions would be any more of a fire hazard.

      Max amp rating on a wall receptacle can be 20A. A cheap Wal-Mart extension cord is rated at 13A. Power 19A worth of load through a 13A cord plugged into a 20A receptacle and you can start a fire without tripping the breaker.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
    10. Re:Good fire prevention policy by zulux · · Score: 1

      Socialist propoganda? Why do socialists care if I put water on a grease fire or if I smoke in bed?

      We all know fire prevention is a Socialist plot to keep you paying into the governemnt's coffers untill you die a nice old age and give anything to the big brother^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H uncle sam.

      Conservatives, like me, wish more people would spotaniously combust - MORE SPACE/STUFF FOR US!!!!

      BURN BURN BURN!!!!

      --

      Moneyed corporations, non-working 'poor' and criminal prisoners are turning productive citizens into tax-slaves.

    11. Re:Good fire prevention policy by penguin7of9 · · Score: 1

      One of the reasons they're doing this is that students often tend to use multiple extensions on a single outlet, which is the second leading cause of fire deaths, according to this.

      Extension cords and power strips are a fire hazard for two reasons. First, people walk over them, where they get frayed and create shorts. Second, they make it easier to overload the circuit, which means that you are then depending on the circuit breaker to work properly.

      But by themselves, extension cords and power strips don't cause fires. They are not substantially different from the wiring that runs in your walls. If you only plug your cell phone, laptop, PDA charger, and stereo into them and don't stress them mechanically, they should be no more likely to cause a fire than if you plugged all that into an outlet. In fact, many power strips have their own built-in circuit breakers, which give you extra protection. And if you are really worried, you can also get a circuit breaker that plugs into the wall socket, giving you extra protection against shorts in the cord itself.

    12. Re:Good fire prevention policy by doktor-hladnjak · · Score: 2, Informative
      I've heard about universities as much as ten years ago banning even just having a refrigerator because the wiring couldn't keep up with every room having a refrigerator.

      I lived in a building like that 5 years ago. I think it was built sometime in the 30s. We were allowed to have refrigerators, but microwaves, toasters, and space heaters were strictly forbidden. You could get in trouble (written up and somehow punished) if any authority figure saw your contraband. However, that didn't really stop a lot of people from not owning a microwave. All that it meant was that people would keep it in their closet and only take it out when they needed to use it.

      My impression of the problem wasn't so much that running a heater or microwave would cause fire or damage to the wiring in your room (there was 1 microwave in the building we all could use), but that if several happened to run at once there would not be enough power coming into the building. The legend we were always threatened with was that if the building loses power, university workers wouldn't come until the next business day to turn it back on!

      Apparently, there's an interesting story about why the building was not significantly upgraded at some earlier point. Originally, it was part of a school for the blind and deaf, which needed major renovation to meet some sort of building codes. Because this was going to be too expensive, the school sold the property to the nearby university and built an entirely new school in another city. The (state) university then (or so the story goes) lobbied the government to *change* the necessary building codes (or at least get some exception), so that the building could be converted into student housing for a lower cost. This combined with the fact that the buildings lie on an earthquake fault...

    13. Re:Good fire prevention policy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Only dorm fires i have seen at the stupid hippies that forget to put your their candles.

    14. Re:Good fire prevention policy by sys$manager · · Score: 1

      I've got a circuit at work drawing 17A through a 15A breaker. You're only supposed to draw 80% of the rated current through any given circuit, so that would be 13A.

      What's that about breakers tripping when the current draw is too high?

    15. Re:Good fire prevention policy by jpostel · · Score: 1

      My house, and the houses I lived at while in college, are 60-100+ years old. That was the last major building period in the towns. My house still has remnants of "knob and tube" wiring.

      I have had to rewire several areas of the house to get outlets where they were needed. I used to blow the circuits regularly when I used the vacuum cleaner until I started the rewiring. It was not terribley expensive because I did the work myself over a period of time, but it would have cost thousands to hire an electrician to do the whole thing.

      --
      Ummm, Jon, aren't you supposed to be dead...? - Otter(3800)
  7. I have plenty by jevring · · Score: 2, Interesting

    In my dormroom at uu.se, I have plenty of outlets and the are situated in good places around the room, like a 4 socket outlet on the wall next to the TP.

    --
    Move sig!
    1. Re:I have plenty by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      like a 4 socket outlet on the wall next to the TP.

      You have electrical Toilet Paper in Sweden?? Cool!!!

  8. Easy by clifgriffin · · Score: 5, Funny

    You'll need a few basic tools.

    Saw-zaw
    Screwdriver
    Wire Cutters
    Electrical Tape
    Cinnamon Rolls
    Gloves

    Using the sawzaw, carefull make an incision in a wall adjacent to the next dorm room. Put on the gloves and extremly carefully use the wire cutters, electrical tape, and cinnamon buns to wire in this "new found" power source.

    You may want to use some "mud" and sheetrock to restore the wall surface to its original state.

    Enjoy!

    1. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      a Saw-z-all (not a sawzaw) is the old messy way to do it.

      get a rotozip. faster,cleaner hole and less mess (it spirals into the wall pushing all the dust into the cavity.)

      Although, one thing I have noticed is that most "computer geniuses" are way too dim to understand basic electricity.

      thus making them dimwits in most of the worlds eyes...

    2. Re:Easy by clifgriffin · · Score: 1

      LOL...I've used the thing a million times... I guess it is one of those things that I learned wrong as a kid and it will be hard to break me now. :)

      If they can't do some simple rewiring, they need to get a book.

      Clif

    3. Re:Easy by clifgriffin · · Score: 1

      Wow, one guy's mistake makes "Americans" dumb. Brilliant.

      I've never bought one. Rarely used one. And if you haven't noticed before now...Sawzall and Sawzaw are pronounced very much the same.

      You're such a big man.

    4. Re:Easy by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Maybe in your neck of the woods, but here we say our w's and l's differently. Oh, sorry, "differentwy."

      (Not the original AC, but the concept of pronouncing it like that is truwy hiwarious.)

    5. Re:Easy by dagnabit · · Score: 1

      Um, that's a Sawzall...

    6. Re:Easy by standsolid · · Score: 1

      IT WORKED!

      --
      WTPOUAWYHTTOTWPA
      What's the point of using acronyms when you have to type out the whole phrase anyways?
    7. Re:Easy by Fjord · · Score: 1

      A Dremel with appropriate attachements is a lot easier to use for this kind of thing than a Sawzall. Just pencil in where you want to cut, and then "draw" the cut with the Dremel. Sawzalls are for cutting pipes and concrete.

      --
      -no broken link
  9. It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I "believe" that, in a campus, people shoul have thought of that, and having a powerstrip won't do much harm.

    B-sides, let's do the math

    Computer 250W + TV 100W + Sound Equipment 50W + Other Stuff 300W = 700W aprox 7 Amps (in 127V)

    It's not going to trip anything

    Unless you have an electric kettle = 2000W

    1. Re:It's not that complicated... by romanr · · Score: 1

      No, the math is pretty easy, the problem is that a single breaker can have up to 12 outlets on it.

    2. Re:It's not that complicated... by Lumpy · · Score: 4, Informative

      let's make some REAL calculations....

      Computer - From 350 to 550 watts. monitor? flat panel LCD - 20 watts. a 17 -19 inch regualr monitor? 170-200 watts. Speakers? from 30 watts to 200 watts or more.. PDA 20 watts charging.. usb hub 15 watts, small 100 base switch and/or your smc firewall to hide and protect 60 watts.

      now that is just a base computer. no printer (80 watts for a cheap inkjet 300 watts for a small laser printer)

      Let's add a cheap fridge.. a $59.00 cube fridge= 500 watts. almost every dorm room has one. as the crap 6 can fridge from think-geek is worthless for a dorm.

      my 9 inch TV here uses 160 watts on it's own.. and then you mention a stereo... maybe a cheapie boom-box will use 300 watts, a regular stereo uses from 500 watts to 3,000 watts depending on equipment, amp power, speaker load, etc....

      and your 300 watt misc load... is a bit low...

      anyways.. being conservative on the above figures.. I get 2070 watts drawn.. at 120 volts (average US voltage in the wall socket.)
      I get 17.25 amps... enough to completely hose and set fire to a cheapie power strip. (if you did not pay $50.00 to $100.00 for your power strip... it's a cheapie.)

      that will strain a 20 amp breaker (inrush current will be much greater than 20 amps.. more like 35 amps if you were to turn everything on at once.)

      and it is rare that contractors wired the place correctly with 12 gague copper and 20 amp breakers. most contractors cheap out and run 14 gague and use 15 amp breakers... betting that your dorm room is on one breaker for it's outlets and one for lighting, ahared with others..

      and from what I have found myself in the 80's in college, and my nephews now in college... this is true. each room is given 15 amps typically for 2 people to share. the above list is not a workable load and therefore usually the stereo get's chucked and they use the computer as a stereo.

      god help the students if they are geeks and have 2 computers.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    3. Re:It's not that complicated... by SW6 · · Score: 5, Insightful
      [ on power usage in dorm rooms ]
      anyways.. being conservative on the above figures.. I get 2070 watts drawn.. at 120 volts (average US voltage in the wall socket.)

      My quarterly electricity bill is approximately 45 all year round. The power costs about 5.6p/kWh, so anybody with a calculator can determine that the power draw of this house averages about 400W.

      Peak power usage for the house (excluding hardwired appliances, i.e. cooker, shower and washing machine) is less than 1kW. Perversely, I can draw 3kW from a single outlet (13A at 220v) - and there's four per room.

      However, what I really want to know is how a student in a dorm room requires two to four times the power of a house with two geeks, a half dozen computers, plus our other toys.

    4. Re:It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      god help the students if they are geeks and have 2 computers.

      Hah, last year I had a Pentium 4 PC, a ThinkPad laptop, an AMD K6-2 fileserver, a PIII 1U rack case gameserver, and a Sun Ultra 10, all in my dorm room, feeding off one outlet using 2 powerstrips. Then I had a Cisco Catalyst switch plugged into the single ethernet hole in the wall and was uplinking to the switch to distribute Ethernet to all the machines. I was even able to get public school-provided DHCP IP address on all the boxes.

      I was the alpha-geek on the floor. People ph33red me.

    5. Re:It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      let's make some REAL calculations....


      Computer - From 350 to 550 watts.

      Your post is too annoying to correct. You don't know how to rate a computer. I'll let you figure it out, since you are such a genius.

      Your calculations are wrong elsewhere as well.

      Nobody else correct this guy. His post is just too damn annoying.

    6. Re:It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      well cince you are too damned stupid to even understand what Lumpy was saying.... he is right. from 350 to 550 watts for a computer, tower/minitower model. this is not the low end crap that most students have, this is talking about geeks here.

      oh and the calculations are wrong? how the hell do you figure amps? the rest of the world and lumpy used Amps times Volts = watts. and he correctly devided the watts by the volts to give amps. only a complete dipshit like you that has ZERO clue wouyld say otherwise...

      how do you rate a computer? by the sticker on the back or correctly with a load meter??

      idiot.

    7. Re:It's not that complicated... by gl4ss · · Score: 1

      **Computer - From 350 to 550 watts. monitor? flat panel LCD - 20 watts. a 17 -19 inch regualr monitor? 170-200 watts. Speakers? from 30 watts to 200 watts or more.. PDA 20 watts charging.. usb hub 15 watts, small 100 base switch and/or your smc firewall to hide and protect 60 watts.**

      first of all, the computer doesn't suck up 350 to 550 wats(the psu doesn't run 100% all the time, and the stated power it can handle is just the maximum), it's more usual for the comptuer to take 150-200wats in normal operation, older comps get on by with under 100w. neither does your audio system run at 100% all the time. and you seriously do have some _CRAZY_ ideas about what an usual stereo system takes power(no, you don't just add up what the speakers could handle potentially driven to max stated on the box) unless you happen to live in some crazy dj campus. cheapo stereos eat something around 30 wats(and read 120w of 'music power' on the sticker, which is a blatant lie of course but people do fall for it) and a 3kw amp for home would be quite overkill(you'd be fucking deaf if you played at max in a dorm room and had the speakers to handle it), i'd imagine your neighbours might have their say about it too.

      not to mention who would run them all on one cheapo powerstrip? tv, fridge and 3kw music system?

      it's fucking idiotic to throw the stereos away and use the computers as stereos.. you're still using the same amount of power if you play at same volumes! granted, your computers audio system might just suck so much that it only takes 5wats peak like most multimedia speakers and uses just extra sensitive elements that sound like crap to make the sound. the usual speaker/amp combinations for computers are just few wats(3-10) and the top of the line 300-400$ 5.1 pc speaker systems are somewhere around 300-400w combined stated(which probably is a blatant lie that they behave well when really driven that far).

      --
      world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
    8. Re:It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Take that load meter, and measure at the line, not the rating on the label of the power supply like the genius is doing...

      Then take that load meter, and stick it...

    9. Re:It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Informative
      he is right. from 350 to 550 watts for a computer, tower/minitower model. this is not the low end crap that most students have, this is talking about geeks here.


      No, actually, he's/you're wrong. My Antec power supply is rated at 400 watts, and running two optical drives, raid 5, an additional hard drive, and over a dozen fans, and my line load at the outlet is no where near 400 watts last time I checked. Has been over a year since I checked, but I haven't changed the setup since then either.

      This also has been covered in articles where cost of running a computer has been discussed, and is also covered on some electrical utility web sites. Electrical consumption is rarely even close to what the power supply is rated at. Usually it is much less, often less than half.

      This also often applies to stereos and other electrical items.
    10. Re:It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Let's see, my nephew has a low end stereo at school. it when playing at a low volume draws 120 watts, his 100 disc cd player draws 80 watts, his audiotron draws 60 watts, his dvd player draws 70 watts, the 30 band EQ he has draws 30 watts then we have the old Laserdisc player I gave him with about 100 discs. and a vcr.... which I have no idea what they draw but the combined load together shows a 520 watt draw when on and running at a background listening level. his brother who thinks he is an audiophile and has seperate amps and preamp that is based on tube technology from McIntosh draws twice that much, but he only listens to albums and doesnt have any of the other goodies. my theatre system is not as good as the one nephews, but better than the other's and maybe cost me a total of $2000.00 which is low end and it draws when fully powered on and playing a move around 680watts... but I have a giant subwoofer (dual 15 inch woofers in a isobarik enclosure to get more thump and a much smaller cabinet.) and both of them at graduation 2 years ago got a pair of studio monitor speakers for their computer (fun to see a pair of coaxial powered speakers from guitar center blow away the best "computer speaker" setup you can buy at comp-usa/ bestbuy/ etc. for the same price)

      Both of them left the stereo at home as it's fucking idiotic to take a real stereo to school. they won't let you actually use it (what use is a pair of big speakers and a 1500watt RMS capable at 0.05%THD system in a tiny room? the computer as the stereo is a smart decision.

      if you drive 4 ohm's your watt useage is higher. E=I over R resistance has a big factor in the power draw... basic electronics facts. low ohm speakers are designed for more "thump" and rarely efficiency.. hell my 901's will blow away anything that is 8 ohms or less.

      you can speculate all you want. until you grab a load meter and look at the real numbers you are making guesses.

      I'm quoting measured and metered numbers.

    11. Re:It's not that complicated... by Beryllium+Sphere(tm) · · Score: 1

      To find out what your gadgets are drawing in real life, as opposed to their maximum ratings, try this:
      http://www.ccrane.com/kill_a_watt.asp
      $45, gives you instantaneous or cumulative readings.

      >that will strain a 20 amp breaker (inrush current will be much greater than 20 amps
      That's not really a strain, the breakers are designed for it. A second or two of overload isn't going to overheat anything, so the breaker will let it through until it's gone on so long that the breaker's thermal trip heats up. The quick-reaction magnetic trip may not fire until 400 amps. A Square D QO breaker for a 20-amp circuit is rated to interrupt a 10,000 amp short circuit. You're not going to "strain" a breaker with inrush current.

    12. Re:It's not that complicated... by gl4ss · · Score: 1

      but you're hardly quoting specs for a normal system.

      --
      world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
    13. Re:It's not that complicated... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      that's nothing,

      I'm in a dorm at the University of Washington.

      Between me and my roommate we have 4 computers, 2 laptops, a 27" TV, counter height fridge, a decent 5.1 surround system (not sure about specs), microwave, 3 printers, and of course an assortment of small power hungry devices.

      We've never had power problems. Whoever did the wiring in my dorm did a decent job, I was cocerned before I moved in about power problems, but I've never even heard of someone blowing the breaker at this place.

    14. Re:It's not that complicated... by Unknown+Lamer · · Score: 1

      ;3kw amp for home would be quite overkill(you'd be fucking deaf if you played at max in a dorm room and had the speakers to handle it), i'd imagine your neighbours might have their say about it too.

      No, you'd be FUCKING DEAD.

      That much power would put you quite a bit over the pain threshold (you'd have to drive something like 4 15" or 18" woofers and an equal number of 1" or 2" horns to use that much power continuously). So much over the pain threshold that you'd end up DEAD because of all the vibration.

      Naturally I am exaggerating a little (not about being over the pain threshold). My puny little PA cabs with their 1" Horns and 15" woofers connected to an RMX1850HD power amp (320W peak into an 8Ohm load when both channels are being driven over the entire signal bandwidth [before someone says "no! it is a 360W amp!" because it only does 360W at 1kHz when one channel is being driven...]) do fine in a mid-sized room (50x50 feet) for a nice sized crowd (100 people). And most of them come out of the show nearly deaf (it suuuucks when the mixing board has to go RIGHT UNDERNEATH one of the cabs).

      --

      HAL 7000, fewer features than the HAL 9000, but just as homicidal!
    15. Re:It's not that complicated... by nitehawk214 · · Score: 1

      Easy... does the 200 watt monitor and 350 watt computer run all the time? Unless you leave the fridge door open it isnt running all the time either.

      Really what he calculated is the peak wattage, which your system needs to be able to handle.

      --
      I'm a good cook. I'm a fantastic eater. - Steven Brust
  10. Found out the hard way by drac0linux · · Score: 1

    Shortly after moving into this house I'm in now, I found out that the house has 2 power circuits. I've got 8 computers up and running in my office and my wife tried to warm up some food in the nuke. Next thing I know I'm staring at a blank screen. I can't wait till I own my own place...

    1. Re:Found out the hard way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Funny

      You're married and you still live at home? I'm sorry but that's the saddest, lamest thing I've ever heard in my life. Oh, I see you use Linux as well.

    2. Re:Found out the hard way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My apartment(duplex) must have been build somewhere in the 60's or 70's. It still uses a fuse box. It is otherwise well designed but not a lot of work thought went into designing the circuits and incomplete remodling/upgrades have made things even worse. Their are actually four circuits and lots of wall plugs (I checked about this and broadband Internet availability before signing the lease.) The main problem is that three of the circuits service the kitchen alone. One circuit is responcible for suppling the living room, bedroom, and bathroom. These of course are the 10 outlets that I use the most. At some point in the buildings history a window air conditioning unit was added in the living room; but, instead of running a new circuit they just plugged it into the nearest wall outlet. They did this in spite of the bright orange warning still taped to the AC power cord. I have nine computers and four moniters running in the living room. When the AC compressor kicks in it drives them nuts. When it is running you will can't look at the moniters without getting sea sick. I ended up having to run an extension cord out of the living room window back into the kitchen and plugging it in their. I don't really know that this is too safe, but is much cheaper then having to by power conditioners for all of my computers to protect the powersupplies and boards from the edys. I have not figuired out what to do about the furnace blowers yet. They are attached to the same circuit. They only bother me when they come on or off and they don't seem to have too much effect on the computers. They do however create a loud POP from the speakers of my desktop terminal.

    3. Re:Found out the hard way by Ulven · · Score: 1

      Did you consider that perhaps he's only renting the house?

    4. Re:Found out the hard way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      He says he can't wait 'until he gets his own place'. That's what people living with their parents say. Having an apartment is having your own place. Millions of people live in apartments and they consider it their 'own place.' I'm afraid we just have a nerd here.

    5. Re:Found out the hard way by Jeremy+Erwin · · Score: 1

      If you are bound by various contracts not to upgrade the electrical wiring, it's not your "own place."

    6. Re:Found out the hard way by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Bound by a contract *not* to upgrade the wiring? What kind of landlord *forbids* tenants from contracting improvements? You sir, are an asshat.

    7. Re:Found out the hard way by Jeremy+Erwin · · Score: 1

      The lease agreement may limit the rights of the renter to make improvements for any number of reasons, including caprice and limitation of liability. While some landlords welcome improvements, others do not.

  11. Need power strip for surge protection by bluGill · · Score: 0, Insightful

    I'm "advising" (It is illegal for an intelligent /.er to help with electrical work, but he can do it himself) a guy building his house. He suggested putting a bunch of outlets along the wall where the enertainment center obviously will go. I talked him out of it, because all that equipment should be on a surge protector anyway. Sure you can get the type that goes in the breaker box (a good idea in fact), but that doesn't stop the same level of surgers as the power strip will. At least until the power strip's protection frys. (generally one year)

    1. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Obviously I can't "help" either, but I suppose I can share my home construction story. My father is building a new house, and to deal with the modern day electrical requirements will be ordering an extra 200amp feed from the electrical co, with its own dedicated circuits into the house for the "heavy equipment". Our current house lacks this extra supply, and any time the AC, a vacuum cleaner, or heck, even my monitor turns on, the lights dim (using a vacuum cleaner in my room causes both of my UPSs to switch to battery backup). Just for this, we're also going to run the ceiling lights and fans on a seperate circuit from the outlets. Also high-usage areas (the den) will be fed by more than one circuit (different outlets on different breakers), to handle whatever we throw in there.

    2. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by Lumpy · · Score: 5, Informative

      holy crap you are giving him bad advice.

      Sure you can get the type that goes in the breaker box (a good idea in fact), but that doesn't stop the same level of surgers as the power strip will.

      so your lack of knowledge is dooming this guy to have sub-standard wiring. Very Nice of you.

      most quality whole house surge supressors are at least 20 times more effective than the crap you can buy even for $100.00 as a plug in strip.

      My IsoBar whole house supressor with replaceable surge and filter modues was not the top of the line for whole house and still had ratings that were far higher than even the "audiophile" quality power strips.

      plus it's reaction time is at least 300% better so the power spikes dont get past it... unlike all power strips as they lack a solid ground to drop the surge to... they can be fast but they dont have a ground that is effective for dropping a 4000 volt spike.

      I really feel for people buiulding a house and taking advice from amateurs that really dont know what they are talking about.

      USE WHOLE HOUSE supression, period. if you have a home theatre, add a second whole house supressor and noise filter if you really think you need it.

      A properly designed electrical system in the home with the correct surge equipment at the front end (the electrical box) solves all these problems. from surges in the house from flipping on grandma's 40 year old stand mixer to nasty surges from the factory down the street.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    3. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by silentbozo · · Score: 1

      If you put in a Tivo, or ReplayTV (or anything else with a hard drive) then a UPS is a must. Otherwise, you're just waiting for the drive to crash due to random power fluctuations...

    4. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by silas_moeckel · · Score: 4, Interesting

      OK as somebody that can spec eletrical this is plain BS. Those cheap surge strips are not capable of dealing with large spikes due to poor grouding. Whole house units dont protect you from that 2000 watt hair drier (BTW you can not get 2000 watts out of a 15 amp plug per UL you should only draw 80% and thats 12 amps for 1320 watts max same for those vacume cleaners)

      Anyway enough ranting for a good home entertainment setup you would want at least one dedicated circut perferably 20 or 30 amps if you can use the 30 amp back 20 amp front recepticals in your building code . A single line surge or UPS unit might also be a good idea (something in the nice back APC RM line but thats over a grand in UPS) especialy for the Tivo and Replay users but also for the big screen TV guys. I say UPS simple because loosing power is hell on any device while it's working and the brownouts are also hell when you remember that modern eletronics are never realy off unless unpluged remotes and all that.

      --
      No sir I dont like it.
    5. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by Lord+Omlette · · Score: 1

      When the inspecters come along and decide what you're doing is a hazard, won't they order him to redo it, at cost?

      --
      [o]_O
    6. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      and any time the AC, a vacuum cleaner

      Are you suggesting, sir, that posting to slashdot without logging in consumes more power than usual? If that's the case I should get another breaker or something...

    7. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I run every electronic device off of an APC, it is the best way to protect my investment. Currently my house has 1 RM-1400, 2 RM-1000, 2 Pro 650's, and one backup 500. High draw non-critical devices such as subwoofers get put behind an apc surge-arrest. I cant express how many surges and spikes that we get that I am sure that my APC's are adding years to my equipment.

    8. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by bluGill · · Score: 1

      He is up to code. Doing exactly what a professional would do if he hired it out. My friend builds houses for a living, and sees plenty of finished ones) No problem with the inspector.

    9. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by bluGill · · Score: 1

      He isn't going to have a spcial home theator, just a standard living room TV like everyone else has running on their 15 amp outlets in their livingroom. Everyone is saying go above the code, which is nice, but not as much a gain as they seem to think. It catches edge cases and that is about it. All this work is inspected, and passes code. Not that inspectors know nessicarly know anything. (at least half the ones I deal with make up codes and requrie things that serve no purpose, but that is a different story and relates more to non-electrical work)

    10. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by jrockway · · Score: 1

      Just don't tell anyone that you're rewiring. Who invited an inspector in, anyway? Why does someone have the right to tell me what to do with MY house? That's right, it's MINE. If I want it to be a death trap for my family, well goddammit, it's my RIGHT. Besides, it's natural selection at work :)

      --
      My other car is first.
    11. Re:Need power strip for surge protection by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Loosing power might be hell, but so is losing power.

      Yes I'm lame, but you've angered my pet peeve and it demands satisfaction!

  12. Not close to enough power... by RLiegh · · Score: 2, Interesting

    However, I live in a trailer in the middle of the desert. (why? great view and it's cheap.) During the summer I can
    a) run ac and cook
    b) run my computer and ac
    c) run my computer and cook

    but not all three at the same time. (at least, not without having to take trips out to flip breaker switches).

    1. Re:Not close to enough power... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      a) run ac and cook

      Dude, if you're running the ac and you're still cooking, you should move to a cooler area.

    2. Re:Not close to enough power... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      I live in a trailer in the middle of the desert.

      At least you don't live in a van down by the river.

    3. Re:Not close to enough power... by sql*kitten · · Score: 4, Funny

      c) run my computer and cook

      You have an AMD, right?

    4. Re:Not close to enough power... by Una · · Score: 1

      Surely you mean Intel, right?
      Prescott set for 90-100W power draw - Intel

    5. Re:Not close to enough power... by Safrax · · Score: 1

      Don't you mean this:

      You have an Intel, right?

      Remember recent Intel processors run hotter than AMD processors!

    6. Re:Not close to enough power... by cloudmaster · · Score: 1

      You have an AMD, right?

      Forgotten all about Cyrix, haven't you?

  13. Circuit breakers by YeeHaW_Jelte · · Score: 1

    I don't know how heavy the circuit breakers in the states generally are, but I run all my electrical devices on two breakers, both of them 16 amps, mains voltage here is 220, and I've never had a power outage.
    16 amps @ 220 volts gives a power rating of 3520, a power consumation I won't ever reach with 2 computers and my lighting and stuff. The power intensive machines (washing machine, electrical oven and fridge) are on the other fuse.
    If I were in america, I'd probably consider using one of the 220 volt outlets found in the kitchen, take one phase and run it to my computer room, but still, I can't imagine computer equipment and electronics tripping a circuit breaker unless it's a really low amperage.

    --

    ---
    "The chances of a demonic possession spreading are remote -- relax."
    1. Re:Circuit breakers by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      American electrical code calls for somewhere around 15-20 amps per 110-125V circuit. The code for 220-240V lines is something like 30 amps or more.

      That's a hell of a lot of power.

      I run 4 computers, 2 monitors, 2 printers (incl laser), various hubs and switchs, a 200W stereo system, 1 TV, various firewire and USB devices, and the cable modem all on one 15 amp circuit.

      Most electronics hardly use any power at all (TVs and monitors kick hard when first turned on though). It's not like your computer's power supply is an arc welder.

    2. Re:Circuit breakers by jackb_guppy · · Score: 1

      That would equate to 32 Amps @ 110V. About 1/6 the average US House is wired for. If the house was built prior to 1960, with GAS stoves, then that would be equal about equal to total electrical power available.

      For the US the standard is 15 Amps @ 110V shared over 6 Outlets and / or Lights. So a single room may have 4 duplex outlets (8 plug points) plus the lights on a single breaker.

      In the house I am in now... 6 overhead lights, 12 Vanity Lights, 4 power outlets (8 plug points) all on 15 amps. No wonder the light bath lights go out when my wife plugs in the a blow dryer.

    3. Re:Circuit breakers by Lumpy · · Score: 1

      If I were in america, I'd probably consider using one of the 220 volt outlets found in the kitchen,

      Here in america, we use only one of those phases EVERYWHERE. it is extremely rare to find a 220 outlet anywhere except the washing room and never in a kitchen, except for an electric stove..and it's a 50-50 chance of having it there as most prefer cooking with gas and therefore use a gas stove and that 220 volt electrical outlet is not there.

      99% of the power used in an american home is the single phase 120.

      --
      Do not look at laser with remaining good eye.
    4. Re:Circuit breakers by bluGill · · Score: 1

      Not exactly. American code allows 120 volt outlets and fixtures to share a circuit of under 20 amps. Dedicated circuits can be 120 or 220 depending on manufacture, but in general 120 volt circuits go up to 20 amps and anything needing more power uses 220 because double the volts allows half the amps for the same power so wire sizes are smaller. (I have seen 30 amp 120 volt circuits, but that was a special case and I'm not sure it is legal anymore)

      American code (or standard?) defines outlets for up to 50 amps in 220, anything more than that is hardwired.

    5. Re:Circuit breakers by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I have seen 30 amp 120 volt circuits, but that was a special case and I'm not sure it is legal anymore

      Of course it's legal. The circuit requires a NEMA L5-30 twist lock plug (or receptacle). My company has a few 3000 VA UPSes that require that much power. They had a licensed electrican put in a few more circuits last month. They're big-ass plugs, with very thick cables.

      At this level of power, it may be worth going to 220 volt UPSes that have 120 volt outputs.

    6. Re:Circuit breakers by DRACO- · · Score: 1

      Math:..

      If I remember correctly:
      Higher voltage = less amperage required = smaller lines required and a plus is you can trasmit further

      the reverse is true but sad.

      This is the reason why the automotive industry is talking about start/geneorator systems running charge voltage at 24 volts or more. They know we are operating more crap on our vehicles. More uber internal and external lighting, dvd players, tv screens, cell phones, gps, stereos (big power sucker there)

      DRACO-

      --
      Consider yourself blessed if you are sneezed on by a dragon and only get wet, it could have been a fireball.
  14. Well, i have a... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Well, i have a grand total of 4 connectors of any sort in my room. 2 x power, 1 x phone, and 1 x lan.
    the lan connection being the sole reason they are forgiven for giving me next to no power points.

    i'm running my pc (and all the trimmings) on one multi plug. It hasn't gone down at all due to it's own power usage, but when when one of my flatmates hooked up a bouncy castle to his said bouncy caslte took out my pc, and everything else in the flat. *mutter grumble* he'd gone out and left his door locked so i couldn't unplug it and re set the breaker.

  15. 15PC Kettle by prodangle · · Score: 1

    I've got heaps of kit all plugged into a single good ol' brittish 240V outlet. I have 2 extension leads, 3 4-way trailing sockets, a 6-way and 2 3 way adaptors. Right now I have 16 items plugged into it all. I've never blown a fuse yet, and the house seems to find enough power without any problems. I've got a circuit breaker at the socket, and it has never tripped. I can't be arsed doing the maths, but I'd be very surprised if my entire room uses as much power as a single kettle. It's all fairly low rated stuff, like TV, Tivo, hubs, 2 PCs, digibox, amp etc. I wouldn't chance plugging an electric fire in here though .

    1. Re:15PC Kettle by prodangle · · Score: 1

      If you're confused by the subject line in my above post, I forgot to make sure the less than sign wouldn't get stripped out
      <<<<<<<<<<<<&l t;

  16. Dorm room, how about a house? by talieos · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I shopped for a house with electricity in mind, and even then it was difficult. I had to get a house built in the mid eighties or later (true grounds, no aluminum wiring), and I wanted 150 amp or more service.

    Even then I ended up running additional circuits to the garage for tools and lights, basesmet for tools, network, and server. The upstairs room I picked for the desktops had randomly been assigned two different circuts for the wall outlets.

    I don't know what I'd do for power in a 10x15 dorm room, and probably as importantly air conditioning! Plus, at my university, I'd be afraid of the power. The u's electricians seem to have a habit of reversing hot and neutral, and in my machine room a new outlet's ground to neutral was -50 VAC. So power strips wouldn't be enough, you'd need a multimeter as well. heh.

    1. Re:Dorm room, how about a house? by goofy183 · · Score: 1

      "The u's electricians seem to have a habit of reversing hot and neutral, and in my machine room a new outlet's ground to neutral was -50 VAC. So power strips wouldn't be enough, you'd need a multimeter as well. heh"

      There is no such thing as a Negative AC voltage. Current flows in both directions through the conductors in an AC circut. This is not saying that getting the hot & nuetral mixed is not a bad thing. I have seen some poorly constructed equipment where you may be able to contact what is supposed to be the nuetral lead. If the wiring was backwards you'd get shocked. Other than that from an electrical standpoint there is no difference which way it is wired.

  17. In the closet by melvin22 · · Score: 1

    My dorm room consists of a bedroom (with a small closet), a bathroom, and a little study room. There are 4 outlets in the bedroom, 2 in the bathroom, and 2 in the study room. However, THERE ARE 10 OUTLETS INSIDE THE CLOSET. And, no, it is not a walk-in closet. So any sparks that may fly in there are right next to that nice nylon winter jacket. It's not like THAT's a fire hazard, right?

    1. Re:In the closet by Ianoo · · Score: 1

      That's just freakish. What kind of strange electrician would put 10 outlets in a closet? Maybe they were running short on funds and got the engineering department to do it?

    2. Re:In the closet by silentbozo · · Score: 3, Funny

      Get a cabinet and put your clothes in there. Then take all your electrical appliances and stick them in your closet. If you're worried about sparking, line the closet with tin first.

      A large ABC rated fire extinguisher might also be a good idea...

    3. Re:In the closet by jackb_guppy · · Score: 1

      But how many circuit? 10 Outlets - 5 duplexs, can still be only 1 circuit @ 15 amps. Then again it could be part of the bathroom or kitchen or .... So it is evenless if you want to eat or groom.

      Groom:Geek oxymoron?

    4. Re:In the closet by eyeye · · Score: 3, Informative

      Sounds like they had a weed grow :-)

      --
      Bush and Blair ate my sig!
    5. Re:In the closet by Patrik_AKA_RedX · · Score: 1
      THERE ARE 10 OUTLETS INSIDE THE CLOSET.
      hmm, I wonder what was there first: the closet or the outlets?
  18. Back when I was at college. by SkiifGeek · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I only had two double point outlets in my 9' X 12' room, and used two surge protected power strips to run everything (6 and 4 port).

    With this, I managed to run a stereo, clock radio, fish tank, desk lights, computer, TV, VCR, powered internal aerial and PlayStation, with sufficient flexibility to be able to run a fan and other various electrical items on the spare ports. This was a pretty standard load for the rooms in the college, although some people had some fairly fancy kit setups (like major tropical fishtanks and home entertainment setups).

    Of more interest is that I managed to fit all my gear into the room for three years (all clothes, toiletries, computer, books and books and books, hundreds of CD's, pictures, all notes and textbooks, software boxes, videos, playstation games, beanbag, guitar, music stand, fishtank, foldaway massage table) and still have room for the bed, desk and student chair and at least 80% of the original floor space still free of crap.

    1. Re:Back when I was at college. by rizzo420 · · Score: 1

      wow, when i lived in a 9x12 room, i had a strip on each of the side walls with about 5 outlets each. that made it nice, but i still needed a couple power strips based on where my electronics were located. i lived there when they first opened up the dorm for students (it was an old overflow/guest housing place). if 2 people on the floor had microwaves going, the power died for the floor.

      when i lived in a larger room (a double, the first was a single), i had a similar setup with even more outlets on each side of the room, and then we had a standard double outlet by the door which was perfect for plugging in a phone or answering machine (or both). never had problems here with too much power being used, and both places were engineering dorms, so you could imagine the power being used...

      --
      please me, have no regrets.
  19. PC Power for Peripherals by G4from128k · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Because most computer peripherals use either 5 VDC or 12 VDC, why not have a small array of 5V and 12V jacks in the back of PCs? That way, your peripherals can be powered by the PC and automatically turned off when you shut down your machine. This solution would let you dump a bunch of wall-warts and probably be more energy efficient too.

    --
    Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do.
    1. Re:PC Power for Peripherals by gl4ss · · Score: 2, Informative

      well.. usb kind of does this.

      -

      --
      world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
    2. Re:PC Power for Peripherals by Ianoo · · Score: 2, Interesting

      You used to be able to get these, actually. I ran my 6V DC speakers off a jack in a free expansion slot for years... it was just a small PCB that connected to a molex inside the machine and had a transformer plus extra resistors/capacitors on it.

      The problem is, I guess, that because so many devices use different voltages, and draw different amounts of power, it might be difficult to provision for every possible device, and you might need a huge PSU. I am not sure whether a normal PSU would be able to supply the PC, my TFT, scanner, PDA cradle and printer without some extra wattage.

    3. Re:PC Power for Peripherals by Jellybob · · Score: 1

      If you know what you're doing, some machines will do this... my server has a molex connector on the back of the power supply facing out to the world at large.

    4. Re:PC Power for Peripherals by Matthias+Wiesmann · · Score: 1
      As another poster mentioned, USB and Firewire kind of do this, many peripherals (scanners, small disks) can now draw power from the computer, thus avoid both transformator and unnecessary cabling. I like the idea of the Apple's ADC connector, basically, it contains video, USB, and power. Thus, the LCD screen only needs one cable, acts as a hub and draws it power from the machine.

      I think the reason many components use different voltages is mainly because they can. I doubt that the fact that USB only provides a given voltage poses unsolvable problems. The PSU is real power guzzler anyway, compared to the power used by the cooling, the CPU, the graphic card and the disks, the power requirements of most peripherals are probably negligible.

      If you think about it, it is funny: the digital hub is also turning into a power hub.

      One area where I hope things will improve is local networking. I have currently on my home network a ADSL router, a switch, a localtalk bridge, those components, along my trusty laser printer are on most of the time. Each network component has its own crappy power supply that produces heat and clutter and eats up power. My hope is that Power over ethernet takes off. This would mean a single power supply that injects power on the ethernet, and all network components would draw their power off it. Now if my laptop could draw power out of the ethernet link, it would really be nice

    5. Re:PC Power for Peripherals by lucifuge31337 · · Score: 0, Flamebait

      If you think about it, it is funny: the digital hub is also turning into a power hub.

      Get a life.

      My hope is that Power over ethernet takes off. This would mean a single power supply that injects power on the ethernet, and all network components would draw their power off it. Now if my laptop could draw power out of the ethernet link, it would really be nice.

      What do you mean, takes off? It's avaialble now. But you can't power printers and laptops off of it for very obvious reasons: LOOK AT THE GAUGE OF CAT5. It's a low power solution only: phones, access points, etc.

      --
      Do not fold, spindle or mutilate.
    6. Re:PC Power for Peripherals by Chris+Tucker · · Score: 1

      So G4from128k sez:

      "...when you shut down your machine>"

      I don't understand, your words confuse me.

      Please! Tell me more of this "when you shut down your machine>"!

      --
      Guaranteed! This comment 100% Anthrax free!
    7. Re:PC Power for Peripherals by Matthias+Wiesmann · · Score: 1
      But you can't power printers and laptops off of it for very obvious reasons: LOOK AT THE GAUGE OF CAT5. It's a low power solution only: phones, access points, etc.
      Actually, if you look at the specs, you will notice that you could power a laptop using ethernet power. The average power requirements of a 887 Mhz Powerbook is 12 Watt while the maximum power provided by ethernet is 12.95 Watts, you would need the battery to buffer the average consumption and obviously some laptop consume way more, but for some, it could work...
  20. the low power devices.. by gl4ss · · Score: 1

    hardly matter at all(razor, cellular charger, usb hubs, switches). you just need those extra plugs so that you don't need to be switching back and worth which device is plugged in at a time, for conviences sake.

    i live in a 'cell' apartment(share the kitchen and wc with 2 other guys), and have around ~6 plugs around the room. 3 computers would go to them just fine, but switch, charger, tv, dreamcast, amplifier & etc take few sockets as well even if they don't pull all that much. none of them really take that much power though(computers maybe max 500w total if they by some streak of luck are all pulling max that they would at the same time) and i have to keep this room warm somehow don't i? the fuse isn't even near going out and all the outlets in this room are behind the same fuse anyways.

    -

    --
    world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
    1. Re:the low power devices.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      What the hell is a "wc"? Walkin closet? You loser Canadians really get on my nerves - this is America - talk like an American.

    2. Re:the low power devices.. by gl4ss · · Score: 1

      haha.. that's the best!!!
      canadians. hjaahahaaha
      i'm from Finland and you're the loser(besides, why don't you speak spanish then if it's the america?).

      --
      world was created 5 seconds before this post as it is.
  21. LAN Party Power by LordoftheFrings · · Score: 2, Informative

    I have similar problems when I host large LAN parties (IE, over 40 people at a hall). What I have found is that you can work everything out pretty well, and it will reduce problems. In Canada, the standard rating for an electrical circuit is a maximum of 10 amps. When you increase resistance in parallel, you increase the overall amperage. So, you have to watch how many computers you plug into a single circuit. It doesn't matter if it's a new SOCKET, you have to be certain that it's another CIRCUIT. In the US of A, the standard rating is 15 amps (or so I've heard) and so you can run a few more computers. Here in Canada, I find the magic number is 7 computers (that's a random survey of computers, and LANners like to have 400 watt PSUs and tricked out boxes with cold cathodes and the like). I hope that helps. :D

    1. Re:LAN Party Power by devnullify · · Score: 1

      Weird...where in Canada are you?

      In all the buildings I've ever had access to the fusebox in, 15A breakers have been standard (not that that's a whole hell of a lot...), in commercial buildings it's generally been 20A or 30A.

      That's around Vancouver and Edmonton...but mostly newer buildings...perhaps you're in an older area?

    2. Re:LAN Party Power by LordoftheFrings · · Score: 1

      I live in ontario, and I'd LOVE to have 15 amp breakers, but I've tested all mine, and have inquired, and they are all 10. Heh, consider yourself lucky. :D

  22. It's not just the number of outlets by Emperor+Skull · · Score: 1

    Its the amperage of the devices. Lots of dorms have one 20A breaker on a circuit that feeds all the outlets in multiple rooms. Plug in an iron and a hotplate and the breakers blow. In order to accomodate all these additional outlets the supply transformers and the electrial runs to the rooms need to be upgraded or replaced as well in addition to the panels and circuit breakers. The additional expense just isn't worth it in some buildings and Universities find it more cost effective to tear them down and start from scratch.

    ES

    - If I had all the money I spent on cars, I'd spend it all on cars.

    1. Re:It's not just the number of outlets by adrianbaugh · · Score: 1

      Sounds like another good reason to use 250VAC to me. More power for your amp.

      --
      "'I pass the test,' she said. 'I will diminish, and go into the West, and remain Galadriel.'"
      - JRR Tolkien.
  23. It depends where you are... by Realistic_Dragon · · Score: 1

    In my dowm room I draw about 20A continuously, and no one notices. I have 8 power sockets (extended with UPS and 4 power strips).

    However in the old rooms, the infrastructure can only handle 5A per room, and the whole flat (6 people) only gets 25A. Someone turns on a hair dryer and everything trips off :o)

    --
    Beep beep.
    1. Re:It depends where you are... by slim · · Score: 1

      20A? Continuously? What the hell are you doing?

      My university accommodation c.1993 had a 3A power supply (at 240V). All I needed to to do avoid tripping the circuit was to avoid switching both PC and monitor on at once (as in, flick the switches simultaneously: monitors take quite a lot of power as they start up, but then settle down to quite a low drain).

      Obviously we didn't plug in hairdriers or electric fires (hairdriers and vacuum cleaners got plugged into the 13A sockets in the hallway).

      If you're always using 4800W, you should think long and hard about your impact on the environment.

    2. Re:It depends where you are... by fishnuts · · Score: 1

      Holy shit. 20A at 240V? You're dissipating about 4800W of heat there. Does that 20A also include the current for an _air conditioner_ to keep the room cool?

  24. More outlets = good by Kulic · · Score: 1

    I moved house a few years back, and the guy who built my current house definitely knew about the wisdom of never having too many outlets. Every single electrical outlet in the house is a double outlet, and each room has at least two of them. The kitchen, the lounge room and the game room have 3 each. They're very handy. We also have a gas outlet in each room, which we haven't used too much, but are also handy on the odd occasion we need one (useful for gas lamps during blackouts).

    The two complaints I have are that there aren't enough tv aerial connections (only two in the whole house), and that there isn't cat 5/6 throughout the house.

    If I had to build a house now, I would definitely recommend going overboard with the electricity, gas, aerial and cat 6 cabling. You may not use it now, but better to have too many outlets than not enough. Besides, who knows what you'll be running in a few years?

    Um, to try and stay a bit more on topic, I'm surprised that this hasn't happened earlier in college dorms. Personal computers and stereos and a million other electrical goods have been around for a while now...

    1. Re:More outlets = good by silentbozo · · Score: 4, Insightful

      If I had to build a house now, I would definitely recommend going overboard with the electricity, gas, aerial and cat 6 cabling.

      It's good advice. I regret not doing extra drops (cat 5e at the time) when remodeling. I have a minimum of 3 ports per room, and I find that I'm always running short. Coax for the television is even worse - the electrician who did that drop only did one drop per room. This is very inconvenient if you want to put the tv on the side of the room opposite the coax outlet.

      The most important thing if you're doing new construction is when doing the blueprints, design the house so that all of your water, cable, and electricity runs are accessible, and centralized. Residential contractors build so that you won't want to do maintainance - they staple wires in place, embed pipes in concrete, and do other things to discourage you from "upgrading" your house. Don't forget to put electrical, networking, and cable in cabinets (you'd be surprised how handy that can be - I wish I had done it), and give your garage/attic/basement a double-helping of everything, plus a main feeder big enough to supply another sub-panel/subnet worth of power/bandwidth. In this case, I told the idiot architect to give me a 80amp run to the attic (don't ask me why, just run it), but he ended up omitting it and not telling me.

      By coordinating all of your runs via a central location, and making sure that you can access it, you can leave room for future expansion. Better yet, locate all your networking equipment there also, and soundproof the sucker. I sort of have this arrangement now (centralized location), but all the runs are embedded in drywall :(

      Remember, if you hire a contractor, YOU MUST CHECK THE WORK. If you hire an architect/general contractor to implement things, YOU MUST CHECK THE WORK. This is year 3 of living in this house, and I'm still fixing electrical problems, correcting defects in cabinetry, patching walls and stucco, and replacing worn out plumbing. No, I didn't hire these guys, if I had, I would have kept a closer eye on em.

    2. Re:More outlets = good by maximilln · · Score: 1

      -----
      I'm surprised that this hasn't happened earlier in college dorms
      -----
      I see college dorms to be a lot like apartments with absentee landlords. There's no real concern over students who don't ground the 3-2 prong adapter and then line it with a daisychain of 6-strips which may or may not have a built-in circuit breaker. If the dorm burns down then insurance will cover it. If the dorm doesn't burn down then there's no need to refurbish it.

      It's all good simple business sense.

      --
      +++ATHZ 99:5:80
    3. Re:More outlets = good by silentbozo · · Score: 2, Interesting

      Don't forget to put electrical, networking, and cable in cabinets (you'd be surprised how handy that can be - I wish I had done it),

      By this I mean, if you build storage cabinets, put outlets and network jacks in them, in case you want to put in a microserver, or a ReplayTV/Tivo. Extra speaker wires are also nice, in case you want to hook speakers to a central MP3 player, connected to that power and network in your cabinet. Power outlets in cabinets are also handy for keeping battery rechargers out of sight.

      Last bit of advice, locate power outlets/network jacks at least 1.5 feet above desk height if you want to use them with a desk or bookshelf, so that you can still access power/network even with a full set of books on the shelf.

      If this is new constructions, also consider running separate waste lines for toilet vs. washbasin/bath. Certain areas are experimenting with using grey water(ie washbasin water) to flush the toilet in order to conserve drinking water. It wouldn't hurt to have separate lines to have the option of converting in the future if need be.

    4. Re:More outlets = good by jfholcomb · · Score: 1

      mostly good advice, however if you are running cat5/6 cable with your electrical cables you might get noise. If you still want a central "channel" to run the cable in. Here is what you can do, put the low voltage wires in one conduit and the house voltage wires in a 2nd one. Then you can run the conduits parallel. I think 8" should be enough space between conduits. Anyone else have a comment on this?

      YMMV

      ITOH if you are happy with 10baseT do what ever you want with the cat5 :)

      Peace

    5. Re:More outlets = good by bluGill · · Score: 1

      Wires are stapled because code requires it in new construction. Wires must be supported every 4 feet, and stapled within 8 inches of the box. There is an exception for remodeling, which clearly doesn't apply to new construction. Contractors would love to save the $.20 per staple. (after labor, figgure 300 in a house and ad it up)

    6. Re:More outlets = good by silentbozo · · Score: 1

      When I ran cat5 as a student, the rule told to me was, at least 6" between parallel runs of electrical and network cable, and if you need to cross electrical conduits, do it at right angles to minimize inductive interference.

      Also, never bend network cable at sharp angles (give it a radius so the wires don't kink), and make sure you leave slack, so when the house flexes (ie, during an earthquake) your wires flex instead of breaking. If you're running wires in your attic, make sure they're supported (ie, on hangers) and out of the way, so you don't step on them when you're up there.

    7. Re:More outlets = good by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Certain areas are experimenting with using grey water(ie washbasin water) to flush the toilet in order to conserve drinking water.

      Ugh, bad idea. Gray water must never be allowed to sit around or it'll spoil and become black water in no time. Best to send it on its merry way and use it for irrigation of ornamentals and fruit trees, saving on water for external use. Plants don't need drinking quality water... Heck, just use a composting toilet while you're at it, no water required.

  25. There can never be enough outlets... by Anime_Fan · · Score: 1

    Nope... I have way too few outlets in my apartment.

    I have one telephone outlet. In it, I have the ADSL, a phone and a wireless phone connected.

    I have no grounded electrical outlets. I had an electrical shock when plugging my S-VHS cable to the GFX card (without having the computer on, but having my speakers connected and turned on).

    I have four (2x2) electrical outlets. Two in the kitchen and two in the living room (both on the side opposite the computer). I have 10+ metres filled with cables for extra outlets. I think I have somewhat close to 30 units connected to one root outlet. Of course they're all on the same fuse.

    I've had 3 monitors, two computers (both at 340W), one TV and the micro running at the same time. But yeah, every time I burn a CD I'm scared I have to put another random metallic object in as a fuse as the normal fuses give up.

    On a side note, the TV only has one SCART outlet, but I have 4 units that all want to occupy the slot ^^.

  26. Build your own by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    My home has 3x48amp circuits (Europe, so 240v), so a total of 33kw consumption in the house.

    I don't often get overloads.

  27. Uni room by Gorgeous+Si · · Score: 1

    My room comes with 8 power sockets, aerial socket (although the reception isn't great), phone socket and a 100Mbps connection to the uni network! It covers all my needs (with the use of 2 4-way strips).

  28. Lovin by Octorian · · Score: 1

    Yup, I definitely pushed the limits... Thankfully they revamped the electrical system in the dorm I lived in before I moved in there. I'm one of the few people who actually took the time to map out the outlet-to-breaker-circuit mapping for the room. Hey, I had to make sure the refrigerator/microwave used a different circuit than my computers. Before I did that, I found that if I had all my monitors on (including one that was normally off), and my roommate microwaved something, the breaker tripped.

    Of course, I also push the limits on how much power one uses for computer equipment. The height of my computer power draw was probably my sophomore year. At the end of that year, I borrowed an ammeter and took some measurements. One favorable thing I discovered was that most computers generally use nowhere near as much power as their power supplies are rated for. However, I still managed to max out my load at 14.5A (approx 1740W) continuous draw. Thank goodness I wasn't paying directly for that off the meter ;-)

    Of course in those days I was running like 8 computers and 3 monitors. Now that I pay for my power, I have cut down a bit on the amount of 24/7 stuff I'm running, though I still manage to use quite a bit of electricity. Then again, now that I live in Florida, I'll bet that a lot of my juice goes too power the A/C.

    1. Re:Lovin by AndroidCat · · Score: 1
      I'm one of the few people who actually took the time to map out the outlet-to-breaker-circuit mapping for the room

      I guess it's just the way we think. One of the first things I did when I moved into my apartment was to map the circuits and tape a diagram to fuse box. (At least with a fuse box I could substitute a slo-blo fuse on circuit that took the airconditioner in the summer.)

      --
      One line blog. I hear that they're called Twitters now.
  29. Outlets are a start.... by Feren · · Score: 5, Informative

    ...but hopefully the colleges are putting a little thought into their designs for the dorms. While it's true that outlets are usually in short supply, you can still be up an electrical creek without a paddle if all the outlets are on the same (underpowered) circuit.

    A lot of apartments suffer from this problem as well no matter what their age... I have lived in an apartment that was over 20 years old, and it had a total of three ten-amp circuits for the entire place (not counting the circuits for the appliances which are pretty much dedicated). This was not exactly optimal for supporting five PCs and their peripherals along with a SUN Ultra 450. I've lived in newer (5 years old or so) apartments that had the exact same problem.

    It's my opinion that the best thing you can do is go to Radio Shack and invest in one of those Circuit Detectives. Use that to determine what outlets correspond to which breaker, and how much power you have through that breaker (the ratings are printed on their for your sanity). Once you have that figured out you can begin learning the fine art of load-balancing on your outlets. "Let's see, I have 2 amps for my PS2 here on circuit A, and 3 amps for my TV on circuit B, and 2 amps for my PC on circuit A...."

    1. Re:Outlets are a start.... by noda132 · · Score: 1

      Heh. My apartment has two 25-amp circuits -- appliances included.

      My three computers are on the same circuit as the fridge, microwave, toaster and popcorn popper. If we run any three (or sometimes even two) of these appliances at the same time, the fuse blows.

      Blown fuses are especially common during the summer, when I have to add on an air conditioner.

    2. Re:Outlets are a start.... by Jeff+DeMaagd · · Score: 1

      Somehow, I don't think most apartment dwellers are faced with the problem of running five PCs and a SUN machine.

      When I built my loft, I had numerous circuits going everywhere. I think each wall in each room had its own 20 amp line (with appropriatly rated wiring) and each outlet is rated for 15 amp service.

      I'd suggest investing in a few UPS boxes as well.

    3. Re:Outlets are a start.... by Ktulu_03 · · Score: 2, Informative

      In our house, we had one circuit that basically powered half the house. One circuit for the garage, two bedrooms, half the living room and half the kitchen. My wife and I each wanted a bedroom for an office, and we needed more juice. I ran a new circuit to each room, bringing it from 2 to 5 outlets each. I also grounded the existing outlets by running a ground wire to the nearest cold water pipe (check with your inspectors to see if that is allowed). If you can't ground existing 2-prong outlets, you can replace them with a GFCI 3-prong outlet, as long as you mark them NG (no ground).

    4. Re:Outlets are a start.... by MikeDawg · · Score: 1

      I disagree, while I am a poor college student/apartment renter, I do own several computers, that I like to keep on, while this isn't what your typical renter does, I think it could be quite common for the computer nerd. My boxes aren't high end or anything, but they help me with my web page development, and server uses. While I don't necessarily NEED to have all the boxes running at once, I generally do.

      At my old house (I rented the basement) I constantly had 4 computers on, and one monitor. I was stringing a 80' (didn't need an 80' but had it none the less) extension cord from my TV and XBox in the main area all the way to one of the bedrooms, I also had network cable running from the XBox to my bedroom, where the computers/router were situated.

      --

      YOU'RE WINNER !
      Another lame blog

  30. Why Don't They MAKE A BRICK... by mother+pussbucket · · Score: 1

    That supports multiple devices!? Instead of an 18 inch power strip with widely separated 3 prong recepticles, an 8 inch block with 12+ single hole power plugs.

    I'd even stick with one manufacturer if they offered a single power unit across their product line.

    4 firewire drives from the same manufacture == 4 fscking bricks on my power strip! Makes baby jeebus cry.

    --
    Yes, it's true. This man has no dick.
    1. Re:Why Don't They MAKE A BRICK... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Hear hear! I've been wishing the same thing for years. But I think the problem is that everyone requires slightly different specs. If you look at those 4 firewire bricks, chances are they all have different voltage and current ratings.

  31. Re:yeah..they all need more double adapters by caston · · Score: 0, Offtopic

    Sure a spaghetti mess of powerboards and double adapter is all good and well until you blow a fuse.

    --
    Beings aspergers AND pulling chicks... I enjoy the challenge!
  32. Why are plugstrips so expensive? by Futurepower(R) · · Score: 1


    Please post any links you have to reasonably priced plug strips. (They are also called power strips.) I don't see why 12 outlets should cost about 2 dollars per outlet.

    Note that a plug strip should have the outlet orientation that allows plugging in three outlet adapters without the adapter outlets interfering with each other.

  33. fuel cells by ShadowRage · · Score: 1

    you can always use a fuel cell and rewire the apartment.

    however, hydrogen is hard to come by.

    or, save up your money and go by a townhouse, or condominium, or buy a real house. one or the other.. the latter is probably the best solution

    1. Re:fuel cells by mmontour · · Score: 1

      you can always use a fuel cell and rewire the apartment.

      For example, this one.

    2. Re:fuel cells by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      sure, Ballard - Coleman/Powermate was going to sell this fuel cell generator/backup device but pulled out and abandoned retail sales. All they sell now are the same old gas powered generators.

      You just cannot buy these things yet anywhere. They are still the stuff of product research in labs - I've been looking at this thing for the past two years and waiting - I think I'll be waiting another ten years before we see useful fuel cell generators available to anyone, let alone the general public.

  34. Oh yeah, I blew a circuit by jonhuang · · Score: 1

    I blew a power circuit in my dorm room last week. Took out all the plugs on the left side, which I then learned were connected to each other. Also learned that my primary UPS is a bit slow to switchover..

    At the time: Computer, laptop, 19 and 17 inch tubes, klipsh speakers, 200watt-second studio strobe, slave light, and rice cooker.

    What's to be done? I ran an extension cable from the other side of the room. A few days later, they reset the breaker and everything worked again.

    I am sooooooo clever.

  35. Fuse... Box.... by In-gin-eer · · Score: 1

    Our problem isn't necessarily to few outlets, but fuse size. In the city where my fine university is located (Kalamazoo, MI), most student rental houseing qualifies as "Historic". This means that there are a lot of houses full of cloth insulated aluminum wiring attached to fuse panels and fuses with small ratings. Plus the circuits don't make a bit of sense. You blow a fuse using an outlet in a room on the back side of the house and the lights in a room on the opposite side go out, while the room right next door stays intact.

  36. Re:yeah..they all need more double adapters by An+Economist · · Score: 2, Insightful

    Many dorm rooms can draw only a small amount of power, no matter how many plugs you add. A TV, PC, Seperate Amp, desk light, fridge (popular beer coolant device in college) and have them all on and BOOM! You've blown the fuse for your room which most likely takes out the entire corridor/stairblock. I've experience many power outages from someone overloading the stairblock, seen cables banded between rooms via windows (aerial cables, ethernet to a single connection shared between 20 etc).

    Dorm rooms were wired with only low requirements in mind. These days of consumer electronics overload capacity. RTFA etc etc etc.

  37. Economy of usage... by Denyer · · Score: 1
    ...get extension blocks which you can switch on/off as needed. Throughout uni, I rarely found myself using more than a few peripherals or other electrical appliances at a time.

    Of course, I have no real use for more than one PC, so I may not qualify as much of a geek in this respect... ;)

    --
    Ph-nglui mglw'nafh Gates M'dna wgah'nagl fhtagn.
  38. Better idea by Kludge · · Score: 1

    Power conversion should be done at a central location in the building. There should be standard 12V DC plugs and strips as well as the higher AC voltage all over the building.

    1. Re:Better idea by silentbozo · · Score: 1

      Power conversion should be done at a central location in the building

      The main problem with this is the voltage drop in the line. If the conversion point is too far from the usage point, you're wasting a lot of electricity in heat, pushing extra current to your device, unless you use oversize wires.

      The other problem is that you need to size a transformer big enough to handle maximum load. As you well know, even when there's nothing on the other end (ie, your cell phone), the wall wart and associated transformer are still putting out heat, due to the inefficiencies in pushing electrons around an iron core. Your big-enough transformer would be putting out heat continuously, whether you were using it or not - not very efficient.

      Ideally, if you want to consolidate power usage, get a bigger psu and chain devices off of it. Runs of no longer than 30 feet are recommended. Either that, or buy peripherials that don't use wall warts.

    2. Re:Better idea by Kludge · · Score: 1

      Yes, one would need to install better wiring and better transformers than those cheap, shitty little bricks use. But by spending money on a single quality transformer with some intelligent electronics, rather than lots of little shitty bricks (some of them are REALLY bad), you could get a product that saves you energy and is a lot more convenient.

  39. Dorm Outlets? by Raynach · · Score: 1

    Yeah right. There's 4 two socket outlets between my roommate and me, and we still need 3 power strips to power all our stuff, not counting the ridiculous thing that comes with the desk that's as wide as the desk, but only comes with 3 outlets.

    --
    - A
  40. What I did for my home office... by opti6600 · · Score: 3, Informative

    This summer we decided that having a 1' deep cable pile over half of my bedroom wasn't a wise idea. So we renovated the old guest bedroom into an office for me. We quickly came to the conclusion that my bedroom was about "-" that close to an electrical fire as-is, so we made sure that there was enough E running to the room for peak power demand of all the systems.

    We currently have one 15-amp circuit (120) and three 20-amp (120) circuits run in here. That's about 9 kW of power if I need it. I strongly recommend with all computing projects that you never, ever, ever scrimp on your electrical budget - it will serve you well.

    Oh yeah, and major points for adding a battery backup - they own.

    -Jordan

  41. Never had the problem by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Having just trodden on a standard British 13Amp plug my son thoughtfully left sitting in the middle of the room, I'm currently a little brassed off with the self righting - pins upwards - design.

    But having a fuse in the plug seems like a good idea. I've never come close to blowing my ring-main's main 20Amp fuse, no matter how much I've cascaded off extension leads.

    1. Re:Never had the problem by Firethorn · · Score: 1

      Why? I have circuit breakers. If I blow the fuse in the plug, I have to have a replacement. This can be a real annoyance. Though I will admit, as isolated as a plug-fuse would be, it should only trip if something goes wrong with the device.

      --
      I don't read AC A human right
    2. Re:Never had the problem by xA40D · · Score: 1

      Why? I have circuit breakers. If I blow the fuse in the plug, I have to have a replacement. This can be a real annoyance.

      Two levels of protection and the annoyance of finding a fuse when one blows versus the convenience of blowing an entire ring main - and the annoyance of resetting all the clocks which are now flashing "00:00... I know which I'd prefer.

      Fused plugs are also great for winning arguments with clueless electricians who claim you're pulling more power than the wiring is designed for.... "No... I can't pull more than 2 Amps... See, a 2 Amp fuse.. so if it's a fire risk then your wiring sucks..." (when I was at college my room had a 2Amp ring main, so I would have this argument at least once a month).

      --
      Do you mind, your karma has just run over my dogma.
  42. humming out of the speakers by johoho · · Score: 0

    well, in my apartment I have two power outlets. Since I have about 4 running machines, a dvd set, a fridge, etc. and everything connected somehow together I have a weird hum in my speakers. That's the only thing that's distrurbing. Other things can be handled with 10+ connectors

  43. Above all else... by smcv · · Score: 1
    I thought of this issue the first time I heard:

    "... the race of Men, who above all else desire power."
    -- Prologue, The Fellowship of the Ring film version

  44. My experience so far..... by Elusive_Cure · · Score: 1

    Well, its my third and last year in a "halls of residence" of the many types there are available for students here in the Uk..All three accomodation agencies prior to renting the room promised plenty of "features" while they all had basic or crippled facilities. For example, one had a contract with a telco to provide phones operated by "pay as you go" top up cards, and no internet alternative...So i was stuck for a year with 56k over pay as you go.... fsking expensive for a student. Now, in another accom. agency, i have no broadband availability (thanx to the terms&conditions that don't allow 3rd party installations), and every time my flatmates turn on the oven my room goes pitch black...Topping that, i have to pay a fsking tv licence, although i don't own a tv(hate tv - not interactive), but there is one pre-installed in the flat...how stupid is that...Well at least i found out how useful an AOL cd can be when it comes to saving money on internet access...

    --
    Roses are red, violets are blue, most poems rhyme, but this one doesn't... ;^)
  45. DIY for fun and profit by jakedata · · Score: 1

    DIY is the only way to fly.

    My apartment was an outbuilding with no cable TV and all underground wiring.

    So, I bought a 100 foot fish tape and a roll of RG6qs. I was able to pull cable and ethernet thru 1 inch wide conduit under the parking lot to the basement of the main house.

    Got my cable modem, and used the ethernet to share the Internet service back to the main building. The 4 tenants paid for my service.

    Lived there for 5 years before I bought my castle.

    Other projects included installing cable, phone and ethernet in every room. The landlord was psyched.

  46. Multi device plugs by Moderation+abuser · · Score: 1

    4 devices on the 1 plug plus cable tidy round the cables going to one set of devices, i.e. computer base and monitor.

    http://www.standsunique.com/accessories.html

    --
    Government of the people, by corporate executives, for corporate profits.
  47. No way, man! Fight for your rights! by Pollux · · Score: 1

    Hey, it should be everyone's right to have a file server, workstation computer or three, television, dvd player, vcr, and don't forget that 30,000 watt stereo system, all runnin' 24-7! That's what we're paying the college for, right? I mean, if they can't handle the drain on their grid, that ain't my fault, cause I already them what they asked for, and that includes the electric bill, gosh darn it!

  48. Not just Dorms... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Hey, my 3-bedroom *house* was built in 1967. Upstairs, my computer room (one of the two larger bedrooms) and the bathroom are one circuit, 15A I believe. The other two bedrooms are another circuit.

    Now, I'm smart enough to know that my computer room with 3 PC's running (and a Cisco 2924 switch, DSL modem, etc) can't do everything. So, for the most part, the three Alpha's, two HP735's, Sun E250 and A1000, SGI's, etc, all are powered off most of the time.

    I plan on setting them all up in the basement, but thats worse. The "family room" (finished basement) and the garage share *one* 20A circuit. God forbid I try and run my electric welder, I pop the breaker regularly if I do that. On the bright side, running new outlets to the garage will be much easier.

  49. never enough outlets by __aaitqo8496 · · Score: 0

    I have power outlets about every 6 feet in my apartment/dorm (more of the former than the latter). Normally this would be enough, except not all my electronics are spread evenly throughout the room. For example, by my bed, I have a cellphone charger, phone, caller ID, and lamp all plugged in.
    Oh yes, let's not forget my precious computer's need; however that is handled by the battery backup.
    The only thing I really long for is multiple ethernet and cable jacks. Right now, I only have 1 of each and my computer and TV are confined to thier seperate corners.

  50. good thing unlimited power is included in tuition by zumbojo · · Score: 1
    Despite my non-computer related major, I am known for having more electronics than a Silicon Valley pawn shop crammed into my room. The greatest energy suckers are:

    desktop P4 computer with four drives

    dual 17" flat CRT monitors

    laser printer (the lights dim when I print stuff)

    20" CRT TV

    VCR

    500W digital surround system

    40W stereo (my alarm clock) standalone subwoofer

    Xbox (I suppose it sucks about as much power as a laptop)

    crappy little microwave (now that I think about it, this thing probably uses the same energy as a calculator)

    dorm fridge (medium sized)

    LOTS of Christmas/rope lights

    two blacklights

    two halogen desk lamps

    two little fans (another pair, even though I am without a roommate)

    phone, hub, lava lamp, chargers, external drives, other little stuff yadda yadda yadda

    I've managed to ghetto-rig another two outlets out of the room's built in 60's style light fixtures through the use of light-bulb socket adapters (ungrounded of course, so they just get used for fans and of course rope lights).

    Still, with my extra outlets I still only have a total of 10 - not nearly enough as to get away with plugging stuff directly into the walls. All I can do is try and distribute the load using good power strips and limiting the total of end connections on each outlet. This results in some cables reaching in strange directions, but it keeps the dorm from burning down.

    Related story: another non-CS friend is known for his 6 feet long steel industrial power strip. Ridiculous but necessary.

  51. gaah by peteran · · Score: 1

    Here in sweden/lulea, I live in a quite small apartment nearby the University. I have 6 outlets on approximately 25 square meters, but none of them are ok. instead i use the extra one under my "kitchen-sink-light" that happens to be the only one with three wires (=grounded) and from that i take all the power I need (through a large surge protector, never trust anyone) for my elecronics. Granted, I take power through the other outlets also, but the main issue here (this being slashdot) is for electronics(in one form or other). So I would say here in Sweden, atleast, the amount of outlets with three wires is limited. And that is really what you want. I seem to recall that quite many electrical appliances are out side their terms of warranty (including computers) if installed to an electrical outlet without three wires.

  52. Tsk tsk. Kids today... by lhpineapple · · Score: 2, Funny

    Porn still comes in paper form, you know.

    Zing!

  53. no probs in german by zal · · Score: 1

    Well, this really isnt an issue around here.
    While my dorm Room only had 3 usable power outlets i put powerstrips on all of them, one of the powerstrips had 2 monitors and 3 puters (dual athlon, p2, powerbook plus accessories (dts5.1, printer, external usb disk, regular desktop speakers, ipod, zire) hooked up to it.
    Even in the case of parralel reboot (aka power outage) this didnt trigger the breakers.
    In Germany the specs for how good the wiring has to be are so high its VERY unlikely youll ever manage to trigger something with regular electronics.

    --
    -- never underestimate someone who overestimates himself
    1. Re:no probs in german by 23 · · Score: 1
      He, unless they completely fuck up the wiring....

      I guess I had a rather blank look of incomprehension on my face 2 months ago, when the whole fucking appartment went dark because ..... I connected audio-out of my computer to my stereo. yup. nothing more to add. And no I didn't learn (I guess I didn't want to believe), I tried it again, and there went my cordless phone. Must be some totally unbelievable random short somwhere.

      God bless German specs...

  54. Minimalism by arekusu · · Score: 1

    I know this goes against the grain of most geeks, but how about just getting by with LESS STUFF?

    Powerbook? Check.
    Guitar? Check.
    Library card? Check.

    All the rest of the electronics can go to Goodwill.

    1. Re:Minimalism by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0


      Powerbook? Check.
      Guitar? Check.
      Library card? Check.

      Spoken like a true music major
      *rolls eyes*

  55. Solved this problem by living at home..... by NoMercy · · Score: 1

    Where I opened out the ring-main, and stuck two double sockets side by side, giving 4 points on the ring right by my desk, one feeds into a UPS which splits it 8 ways, and two more to 4-way splitters, the last one is a seperate for my lamp.

    Giving me 17 electrical points..., alas I'm running out :)

  56. Computers could take a hint from automotive by Tau+Zero · · Score: 4, Informative
    Because most computer peripherals use either 5 VDC or 12 VDC, why not have a small array of 5V and 12V jacks in the back of PCs?
    To start with, what happens when you run out of jacks in the computer?
    This solution would let you dump a bunch of wall-warts and probably be more energy efficient too.
    Or possibly not. If you need something like 8 volts in a peripheral (to run a CD drive's motors, to give just one example) you couldn't get it easily from +5, so the most likely solution is to use a 3-terminal regulator to get it from +12. This throws away 33% of the power as heat. To get really efficient requires switching power supplies (which I think are great, but they are nowhere near as simple and cheap as a 3-terminal regulator).

    In practice you'd like a power bus fed by some big central PS that doesn't depend on the computer. This PS would provide for standby power to peripherals, like the ATX standard. Compliant peripherals would take a trickle of power from the bus during "sleep", and wake up (turn on their main power supply, reset and boot) on some electrical command. Some other command, or a sustained period of inactivity, would set them back to the sleep state.

    This is pretty much what many cars have today, using the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. CAN modules "sleep", some with their RAM powered on and all with their comm chips running, on less than a milliamp. The speed is not up to computer specs (0.5 mbit/sec or so), but the techniques could easily be adapted to something like FireWire if the will existed or one manufacturer had the pull to create a de-facto standard. With something like this you could have a "power strip" like a laptop brick, putting out 12-14 VDC for a host of peripherals and maybe the computer as well. You might not get rid of all the wires (though a combined power/data bus could do that too), but you'd certainly get rid of all the wall-warts. It would make backup pretty trivial, too (just hook in a deep-cycle battery). Who wouldn't want that?

    --
    Time is Nature's way of keeping everything from happening at once... the bitch.
    1. Re:Computers could take a hint from automotive by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      maybe but
      most external cd drives are internal drives in boxes

      so most likley do have a supply inside that provides 5 and 12 to the drive (most likely from a single 12v in from the wall wart)

    2. Re:Computers could take a hint from automotive by calidoscope · · Score: 1
      In practice you'd like a power bus fed by some big central PS that doesn't depend on the computer.

      Why not feed the computer off of that same central PS?? 48V may be a good compromise - as it is the standard for Telco's and there are a lot of DC-DC converters with 48V inputs.

      'Nudder advantage of that central PS, the AC/DC converter can float charge some batteries (or Ultra-Capacitors) and act as its own UPS. Just doesn't make a whole lot of sense for a UPS to convert DC to AC when that AC is going to be converted back to DC.

      --
      A Shadeless room is a brighter room.
  57. Here's my little story by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'm not in school, and I own a lot less stuff than most self-proclaimed 'geeks' would find normal, however, I do have two computers and a large 1960's oscilloscope which will draw 600-700W.
    I live in a crummy 100 year old apartment built in a worker-class community in Montreal. The apartments were built before electrification, so they have no provisions for outlets, and even running water is a miracle.
    So when they rebuild these things, they can't wire in the walls because the walls are made of solid timber. So they slap on the drywall about 3 inches away from the main walls and ceiling, and wire everything there.
    This makes it easy to add the missing phone, network and coax cable because all I need to do is remove the mouldings, whack the wires into the empty space behind the drywall, and run the wires into the different rooms.
    It was pretty simple, passing from one room to the other just required drilling a largeish hole in the back of a closet to get to the other room, but the final drop into the 'hobby' room was messy, but now I have rooms with those faceplates with 6 holes that you can whack different jacks into.
    2 phone jacks, ethernet jack, and coax.
    So now I can connect two ends of the apartment together, and the scope is on its own breaker, with a computer and LCD monitor for the electronics hobby stuff.

  58. AC Adapters by XNuke · · Score: 1

    What really irritates me is that most AC-DC adapters have the prongs directly on the body of the adapter and almost ALWAYS cover more than one outlet.

    1. Re:AC Adapters by fishnuts · · Score: 1

      Enter the "wide-spaced, rotated-socket power strip". One of these babies makes my DSL bridge, radio and cell phone chargers, and speaker wall transformers all very happy to be plugged in near eachother.

  59. Lots of power! by kf4lhp · · Score: 1

    Oddly enough, in my apartment at UTC, we have a double outlet on its own 20 amp circuit, and three other outlets on a second 20 amp circuit in each bedroom, plus a 100 mb lan and a telephone plug in each room.

    Only bad thing is there's only one cable TV jack, and it's in the living room. Easily solved with about 50 feet of coax and plenty of splitters...

  60. What i do by jjshoe · · Score: 1

    I ask the landlord for permission. I pull all the cable i need. I subtract cost from rent.

    --
    -- botsex is {grep;touch;strip;unzip;head;mount} /dev/girl -t {wet;fsck;fsck;yes;yes;yes;umount} {/de
  61. Scale back... by supabeast! · · Score: 2, Insightful

    I used to have a room full of computers. My apartment could handle it, at least after I ran CAT 5 along the walls to each of the desks, but after a while it all just got sort of silly, and I decided to start cutting back on the computer lab that was my life.

    First, when a previous employer laid me off, I gave their extra computers that I had been storing (Really, we were storing equipment because the company couldn't afford storage space.) back. When I showed up with the stuff they all thought that I was nuts.

    Then, I stopped doing contract work on weekends. Now I don't ever have tables covered with Sun systems laying around.

    After that, I got sick of dealing with hard disk issues on the Ultra-60 I never used and sold it.

    When my college-student sisters desktop started croaking, I gave her my old 700mhz Athlon machine.

    After I finally gave up on trying to keep driver and Direct X versions compatible with my games, I stopped using my Windows box for anything but the occasional blackboad.com login, so it sits cold all day.

    Most recently, a storm finally wiped out my poor little firewall, after four years of R2D2-like service, and I haven't fixed or replaced her yet.

    So now I'm down to just using my iBook most of the time. Makes life nice and simple, and honestly, I don't really mind the silence that comes with all of those other computers being turned OFF.

  62. The woes of college electricity by DarkLox · · Score: 1

    Last year when I lived at UPenn's dorms, myself and 3 roommates had a suite. Each one of us had a refrigerator,tv, vcr, at least one computer (myself and another had an additional laptop), a console, a few lights, and the normal things such as alarm clocks, etc.

    In addition, to share among ourselves we had a microwave, toaster, coffee maker, and a george foreman grill.

    To accomodate all those things, was not a problem, the amount of sockets was sufficient. However, since the fridges, computers, etc were always running....when we turned on the micowave we would ALWAYS blow a breaker.

    Eventually we figured out what was goin on and we learned to turn off some stuff before cooking, but it only goes to show that they underestimate the power needs of the technologically advanced college society.

    --
    Momma told me that sigs are for the devil
  63. Virginia Tech Tower of Power by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I'll never forget being at Virginia Tech in one of the old dorms. We have 2 electrical plugs not including the 1 by the sink. We plugged power strips into them both and ran 2 computers, 2 monitors, 1 SCSI external driver, Microwave, Fridge, VCR, TV, and Nintendo. Whats funny is all the electronics sat next to or on top of each other because we had no where else to put them. So the Radio was on top of the TV which was on the microwave which was on the desks an inch above the VCR which was on the fridge. We called it the tower of power because when you moved a monitor next to it the screen on that side would display wrong.

  64. Designed for connectivity - and still not enough by iiioxx · · Score: 1

    When I built the house I am in now, I wired the hell out of it. Every room has 3 CAT5 drops and an RG-6 (coax) drop. My office has 6 CAT5 and 2 RG-6 (because at the time I had cable modem service, now I have DSL). Even my kitchen and dining room are wired with CAT5 drops (just in case). All of this wiring runs back to a central patch panel in the garage.

    So am I set? Not really. It's funny how when you build a house, you think you know how you are going to use each room. Then you move in and change your mind. The room I designated as an office is fine, but it's right across from the bedroom and we get to listen to the hum of many fans as we drift off to sleep at night. There is a room downstairs that I later realized would make a great office, but it isn't wired with enough drops (because it was supposed to be just a sitting room).

    I contracted out the network cabling through a company I used to work for, so I got exactly what I wanted and for cheap. The electrical wiring was done by a contractor hired by the builder, and I had much less control and had to make a lot of compromises (rather than spend a fortune in custom "upgrades"). As a result, I have only 8 outlets in my office, and they all run off the same circuit. All of my equipment in that room is powered by my APC 3000 UPS, with a power strip plugged into each of its 8 outlets. That UPS was modified to run on a 15A 120V circuit (basically by swapping out the 30A locking plug) and aside from a few lamps around the room, is the only draw on that line.

    Right now, I've got the load at around 40% of the UPS's designed capacity, which is about 80% of the circuit's capacity. And that's with my rack of Cisco gear powered off. I power that rack up to do some lab work, and I am right at the max. I usually work in the dark, simply because I'm afraid that if I power on a lamp, I'll throw the breaker.

    Moral of the story: even when you design for capacity and connectivity, you still run into brick walls eventually. I've actually given thought to the idea that the next house we build will not have wiring fished through the walls, but instead use this wiring raceway I saw on a home improvement show a couple of years ago. It is exposed and easily accessible to facilitate upgrades to power and cabling. Need another outlet? Just snap one in.

  65. Use less? (Slightly OT) by saynte · · Score: 2, Insightful
    There are quite a few people here saying that they don't have enough outlets to run all of their "stuff". While this is a valid point, I think maybe that there is another problem here: too much luxury. I'm not going to say that people don't have a right to their electricity, or that they can't run gadget A, or appliance B. I just think that, if when you take a look at all the things you have, you probably don't really need all of it. Now I'm speaking with regards to dorm-rooms here, not so much apartment buildings where less is provided for you.

    Why don't people just either

    a) not bring so much stuff to school (where in theory you should be working most of the time anyway)

    or b) just UNPLUG one thing, then plug another in! (you don't really need to run everything concurrently)

    To me at least, it just seems that people are starting to jump to the "how do I expand my current limits" solution, when maybe the "how do I conserve power" solution might be better in some situations. I am not saying this holds true for everyone, some people have to be able to watch a video and decompose the effect of the background on the overall composition of the..(well you get the idea), but in GENERAL conservation should be used before expansion.

  66. Rewire to 220 volts by morcheeba · · Score: 2, Funny

    You can double the amount of power that you can use in your room by simply switching to 220 volts. It doesn't require a transformer to do this; just wire your outlets the same way a 220v dryer is wired.

    A friend had a dorm mate that had brought a 220v stereo from overseas... they found that half the room was on one 110v circuit and that the other half was on another. So, they connected the stereo to the "hot"s of each circuit, and they had 220 volts total. Or something close enough.

    Ok, it's not to code at all and is dangerous because some appliances (like lamps and toasters) will have electrified enclosures. But, it would work as long as no appliances touched each other, you, your dog, or a real ground.

    1. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by DarkLox · · Score: 1

      While this would work in terms of voltage, you have to remember that in 110v outlets we get double the amperage that 220v outlets do...so theoretically the amount of power (V*A) is the same.

      --
      Momma told me that sigs are for the devil
    2. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by morcheeba · · Score: 2, Interesting

      I guess I confused the ways of implementing it...

      The way the friend wired the stereo wouldn't get you more power in the room; you get double the power to your device, but you also use double the outlets.

      But, if you were to go back to the breaker box and rewire your outlets there, you'd get double the voltage at each outlet.. the amperage won't go down (unless you plan on rewiring the wires in the wall and replacing the sockets), so you'll have double the power.

      True, countries that use 220v can get away with thinner wires to deliver the same amount of power.

    3. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by fishnuts · · Score: 1

      But he's suggesting pulling power from -two- 110volt legs. Two 110v/15a legs will give you 3300watts maximum (+/- adjustment for load factor). Same amount of power available on a 220v/15a single circuit.

      The amount of power would be the same for each of the two 110v legs, measured individually.

    4. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by adrianbaugh · · Score: 2, Interesting

      thinner wire

      Also potentially lower risk of fire in various situations.

      --
      "'I pass the test,' she said. 'I will diminish, and go into the West, and remain Galadriel.'"
      - JRR Tolkien.
    5. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      Also potentially lower risk of fire in various situations.

      Such as?

    6. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by adrianbaugh · · Score: 1

      Running excessive current through a thin wire isn't too clever an idea. Put some wire wool between the terminals of a car battery if you want a nice demonstration. In a dorm this might apply if many kettles are run off the same ring main and a circuit breaker fails.
      Note, I did say "some situations". 250V is much worse (due to increased spark risk) if you have lots of volatile petrochemicals around (for example..)

      --
      "'I pass the test,' she said. 'I will diminish, and go into the West, and remain Galadriel.'"
      - JRR Tolkien.
    7. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      steel wool and a 9-volt battery works well, too.

    8. Re:Rewire to 220 volts by qtp · · Score: 1

      110v AC power is not derived from 220vAC by using a transformer, but by using only one phase of available 220v AC two phase power (the phases are 180 degrees out of synch) which gives you the same current at half the voltage.

      You are correct that if the power remains the same, then the device will draw twice the current, or trip the breaker (which is more likely in the given situation).

      --
      Read, L
  67. Yeah, we have quite a few. by sailor420 · · Score: 1

    In the dorms in my school (UNC), next to every desk in the dorms are 4 outlets. This is generally enough to run all the computer equipment you can throw at it (I am running two boxes, a laptop, a monitor, a stereo setup, my switch, an external HDD, my printer, two lights, and still have one of them open to use for things like charging my cell phone). In addition, there are two sets of two plugs elsewhere in the room. I did make sure to plug the refrigerator and the microwave onto different plugs (thank goodness for extension cords). There are also 2 gigabit ethernet ports and a coax cable port. It *is* a pain to run the ethernet cables around the floor of the room to get to the far desk, but its not too bad. The dorms are also all wireless, but the reception on the fringes of the dorms, where my room is, is a little less than stellar, so I just use wired ethernet.

    So far we havent really had any problems with power going out. Someone tripped one of the breakers a couple of months ago, but apparently only the two sets of two plugs were on them--both of the quad plugs still had power.

  68. I don't think the students are to blame by Hoplite3 · · Score: 2, Insightful

    "It looks like Circuit City in some of those rooms," said Dan Bertsos, director of residence services at Wright State University near Dayton, Ohio.

    And also:

    They power a color TV, stereo, compact disc and DVD players, video game player, desktop computer and laptop, printer, scanner, refrigerator, microwave and two fans. Then there are rechargers for a cell phone, hand-held computer, camera, electric razor and toothbrush.

    Yeah, but I bet Dan has all of these things at home too. Most of these new appliances are a result of college policies and planning. The computer is obvious. It is at minimum the new typewriter. The printer and scanner come along when the college doesn't provide these services in a convenient place or charges too much for them. The stereo has been around for a while in dorm rooms. You need one because the shitty radio isn't going to cut it. The TV and the DVD player are in each room because there's no communal space for reasonably sized groups (4-8 students). If they had a place with their friends, these things could live out in some sort of small living room. The microwave and refrigerator are in response to colleges jacking up board costs to pay for fundraising activities (a very common practice). They are also not new: my mom was boiling water on a hotplate in here dorm room -- much less safe than a microwave. Again, some communal space could reduce the number of microwaves a fridges.

    Most dorms try to provide communal space in living rooms that are public to some 12-20 students. This is far too large. There's too much sharing of responsibility for the accidents in the microwave to ever get cleaned or for food in the fridge to be safe from hungry fingers. You need a space that the small group feels ownership over.

    --
    Use the Firehose to mod down Second Life stories!
    1. Re:I don't think the students are to blame by ONU+CS+Geek · · Score: 1

      I was at WSU yesterday.

      The three dorm rooms that I had the pleasure of being in had about 6 outlets. 2 by their computer/RJ45/Coax/Phone Outlet, 2 by their sink, and 2 by their bed.

      Take, by contrast, my former employer/ala mater, who just built 250 new dorm rooms...and they have around 8 outlets in them per bedroom, and their own surge supression systems on the line.

      Yeah...boring, I know...but WSU's problem is the fact that their dorms are old, and not up to today's "electronic" standards. Hell, even their Gai-Tronics phones on campus are programmed with the default password, and their telecommunications staff seem to have problems finding out which pairs are blue/blue white.

      When you're in that situation, do what any other self-respecting geek would do. Go, grab a box of Cat 5E or Cat6 Cable, some RG11, and wire the damn outlets yourself. If you need cable someplace, put cable someplace. If you need TelCo someplace, put Telco someplace. If you need Data outlets somewhere, plug them in yourself. Get yourself a nice punchdown block, terminate everything, and only use what you need. It may be cool to have every coax outlet in your house "hot," but, when the local cable company sweeps for signal loss, your house may be shut off because it's leaking signal.

      --

      I disable sigs...do you?
  69. My dorm power problems by gregsv · · Score: 1

    Back when I lived in the dorms (I'm still in college now, but have since moved to an off-campus apartment) they had outlets for two rooms on the same circuit. My room had 5 computers and associated monitors, printer, refrigerator, microwave, fans, etc. and the guys next door had 6 or 7 computers, monitors, stereo, refrigerator, micorwave, fans, etc. We blew the fuse (that's right, no circuit breakers in this dorm) all the time. A few weeks after the semester started, we reached an agreement that neither of us would use our microwave until we alerted the guys next door so we could power down our monitors, printers, and other unnecessary hardware (of course we never wanted to power one of the computers down).

  70. When tenants left, this is what we did: by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    Here's the electrical/computer description portion of what was done to the second floor 3 bedroom apartment:

    Plenty of electrical outlets for computer/tv/cable/vcr/tivo/dvd/gaming & other electronics. Separate air conditioner lines in every room. Bedrooms, living room, dining room have CATEGORY 5E ethernet lines for possible gigabit ethernet computer connections (this is the better 350 Mhz Cat 5 Enhanced, not the 100 Mhz cheaper wire), multiple RG6 coaxial lines for cable/dvd/video/gaming in bedrooms, living room and dining room, and multi-line telephone jacks in each room (total pre-wired for 4 telephone lines, 3 line jacks installed, 1 telephone line installed at demarc line). Telephone lines use CATEGORY 5E wiring. All wiring behind walls and professionally terminated. If you need speaker wire or custom low voltage audio/video wire installed behind walls, this can be done if you pay for labor and materials.


    Not specified in the ad, but the master bedroom has about 28 outlets, in groups of 6 or 8, the other bedrooms are similarly equipped, as are all the other rooms. Next to one set of 8 outlets on 2 opposite walls, there are 2 to 3 ethernet outlets, 1 to 2 three-line telecom outlets, and 1 to 3 coaxial outlets, all using leviton 6 position faceplates.

    It was a complete gut renovation, so all the telecom wiring is all new, behind walls, and easily accessible/changeable from the attic.

    If the future tenants supply a gigabit switch, they'll have a gigabit ethernet network at no additional charge to them, as well as multiple telephone outlets in every room, and cable/dish connections in every room as well.

    Now if the job situation would only turn around in NYC, we'll finally be able to rent the apartment. What gets me is that of the couple of potential tenants that came to see the apartment, none of them were interested in the connectivity and power available. And craig's list hasn't really provided any responses with interest to the ethernet and telecom wiring. Everyone seems to think they can apartment shop without seeing the apartments.

    We used close to 1000 feet of ethernet wire (including telecom), over 600-700 feet of coaxial wire, and a large number of Cat 5e, coaxial, and 3 line telecom jacks, plus all the related hardware in a single 3 bedroom/6 room apartment.

    Did we waste our time and tremendous effort (and money) getting ethernet/telecom/coaxial wiring behind every wall in every room?

    Nobody seems to care.
  71. I'm a University of Wisconsin Madison student... by herrvinny · · Score: 1

    In the dorms, they provide us with one ethernet port, one telephone, and three electrical sockets per student. Enough, in my opinion. But they don't let us plug in more than one computer into the network.

  72. Alternative to high-voltage AC outlets? by Ed+Avis · · Score: 1, Interesting

    I doubt there's been a sudden surge in student usage of toasters, kettles, electric heaters or other appliances drawing a large amount of power. All the electonic devices that have recently become popular are low-voltage - 12V or less. So why is the answer to put in more high-voltage AC outlets, requiring a trained electrician? It would make more sense to run a 12V or 5V power supply within the building, if there were some way to connect devices to it.

    --
    -- Ed Avis ed@membled.com
    1. Re:Alternative to high-voltage AC outlets? by Indy1 · · Score: 1

      the argument you make is one that was debated between Edison ( a low voltage dc fan) and the various people (telsa and a few others i believe) backing a high voltage ac system. THe high voltage ac people won for 2 reasons.

      A: With Ac, you can use transformers to adjust the voltage to whatever level you need.

      B: Because its higher voltage, you can carry a given amount of power (watts) at a lower amperage, which means you lose less power to line resistance. At 12v, you'd lose so much current over the power lines it would be useless.

      --
      Lawyers, MBA's, RIAA? A jedi fears not these things!
    2. Re:Alternative to high-voltage AC outlets? by tim_mathews · · Score: 2, Insightful
      OK, let's have an example of this. Say you need 100A @ 12V for all your stuff. This isn't an unreasonable number if you have a couple of computers, an LCD or two, a heater(?!), that's crazy, but I'll bite. To get that to run 500' (again, not an unreasonable number if it has to come from some central supply in the building), you need 1000' of wire. Remember we have to make a return trip. You want 12V to be available at full load. Which means you'll need a regulator in your room (minor detail really).

      To carry 100A, engineers recommend at least #4 wire (0.232" dia.) so that it doesn't get too hot. As we will see in this example #2/0 (two-aught) (0.414" dia) or bigger is a better choice.

      The resistance of #2/0 is 0.15ohms/1000ft. Our run is 1000 feet (500 each way). For that length run at 100A, the voltage drop is 15.4V, so to get 12V we need a powersupply that outputs at least 27.4V. Our efficiency here is 43.79%. That sucks!

      We'll try again with a bigger wire. 4/0 (0.552" dia) this time. The resistance is 0.049ohm/1000feet. Now we only need a 21.8V power supply and our efficiency is up to 55%. This still sucks compared to AC. Now imagine wiring a whole building like this. Perhaps we need 10,000A of DC power, we'd have to give up using copper and go to something with a lower resistance (silver for example). At $5.36/oz (current market price) that's just not feasable.

      Sorry you loose.

    3. Re:Alternative to high-voltage AC outlets? by Ed+Avis · · Score: 1
      A: With Ac, you can use transformers to adjust the voltage to whatever level you need.
      But for a low-power, low-voltage power supply you can use a resistor.
      B: Because its higher voltage, you can carry a given amount of power (watts) at a lower amperage, which means you lose less power to line resistance.
      I hoped that this would not apply for wiring a single building but another poster showed that it still does.
      --
      -- Ed Avis ed@membled.com
    4. Re:Alternative to high-voltage AC outlets? by Ed+Avis · · Score: 1

      100A x 12V is 1.2kW, that's a huge amount for a computer. Even today's overheated Pentium monsters use only about 400W (if the power supply ratings are to be believed - and I don't know whether that refers to the power drawn from the mains or supplied to the motherboard). My two-year-old LCD says on the back that it draws 3A at 12V DC.

      More likely a PC would continue to be plugged in to the standard mains outlets, as at present. It's all the other electronic gizmos that have proliferated that cause the problem. So 10A per person should be plenty. It seems wasteful to install a full mains socket for each one of those when it draws only a fraction of what that socket is designed for. Still, I suppose students can easily get one of those multi-socket adaptor thingies if they know that each device draws only a little current.

      Still, you're right about the wiring - I hadn't really considered just how long it would need to be.

      --
      -- Ed Avis ed@membled.com
    5. Re:Alternative to high-voltage AC outlets? by Ed+Avis · · Score: 1

      I meant to say - 1.2kW is a huge amount for consumer electronics, even including a PC (which is surely the most power-hungry item).

      --
      -- Ed Avis ed@membled.com
    6. Re:Alternative to high-voltage AC outlets? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      All the electonic devices that have recently become popular are low-voltage - 12V or less.

      They've become popular because it's so much easier for the manufacturer to get them certified. Usually, only the power brick needs to be certified. If the device takes 120v directly, the whole device needs to go through the process.

  73. apartments & dorm rooms by zapp · · Score: 1

    The dorm I was in during college was built in the 50s, but did have a 4-plug outlet on 3 of the 4 walls. With a few powerstrips it was enough.

    My apartment also has (nearly) enough outlets. Our major complaint is that it is a 2 bedroom and 1 bedroom has a TV outlet (used for cable modem and mythtv). The other room has a phone outlet.

    --
    no comment
  74. Fire Hazards by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    Folks, before you start rewiring as someone has suggested, keep in mind that you can die if you get shocked. You might not keel over immediately, but it's possible that you go to sleep that night and never wake up because your heart stops.

    Don't daisy chain power strips. If you do and the first in the chain can't handle, you will blow fuses or melt insulation. The conductor essentially becomes a filament and just gets red hot.

    Most importantly -- you can destroy equipment or shorten the life by using incorrect voltages.

  75. A lot of electronics don't use too much power... by Jearil · · Score: 2, Interesting

    I had a situation at my school last year where our power kept going off because our circut was overloading and the breaker would go off. We learned how to reset it from the box that was down the hall, but it was really annoying that it kept going off. What was stranger was it never had this problem before, so finally we had the maintence department of the school come up and check it out and I learned a bit about how much power devices consume.

    Our room was one of 3 doubles set up on the same circut. We were the only ones around, so we couldn't do much about the other rooms power, but we could look at ours. The circuts cut after 20 amps. When we turned everything on in our room, the circut breaker went off and broke the circut, but we found out that it wasn't our stuff causing me majority of the problem. We had in the room 3 computers, 4 monitors, 2 TV's, 2 Xboxes, 3 lamps, 2 alarm clocks, 2 phones, 2 speaker systems, 1 sperate stereo, a dozen accessories for various computers (printers, scanners... etc). and a few other things that I can't remember.

    When we had all of our stuf off, the breaker was still reporting 11 amps being drawn from the other rooms. He went into one and found an illegal (per college rules anyway) space heater in there on with no one around. He turned just that off and we were down to 2 amps being drawn. After turning all of our stuff back on, it went up to 12.

    One space heater was using almost as much power as 2 people's worth of electronics. Moral of the story: don't use space heaters in college dorms 'cause power outages every 30 mins suck.

  76. older houses - freakin nightmare by Al+Al+Cool+J · · Score: 1
    One of the reasons I chose my last basement suite was that there were good grounded outlets all over the place. However, it was still a 90-year-old house and obviously the wiring wasn't up to snuff somewhere, because the landlords were doing renovations upstairs which resulted in a couple of nasty power surges in my suite. The first one killed my primary and backup hardrive, and the second one a couple of months later destroyed almost every piece of electronic equipment of mine that was plugged in at the time. My primary computer escaped the carnage because I was staying at my mom's at the time as she had become very ill. She is now in hospital, and I've given up my apartment and moved back home to look after the place.

    This too is an old house and the wiring here is archaic. Most of the outlets are only two prong, and most of three prong outlets aren't properly grounded. There are a grand total of two sets of grounded outlets in the entire house that don't trigger a reading of "wiring fault". One set is down in the basement, and the other is on the upstairs stove.

    I couldn't keep an eye on mom from the basement, so my entire home office system is plugged into the stove, via 100 feet of yellow outdoor extension cord which snakes halfway around the house, and into the biggest UPS I could find. Hardly ideal, though it is kind of funny that the stove is now a point of failure in my computer system.

    So a warning kiddies: avoid old houses. Even if the rent is low, they ain't worth it.

  77. dorm specs(?) by y0bhgu0d · · Score: 1

    well, in my room there is 1 coax connector, 2 ethernet ports, 1 phone jack, and probably 7 or so power jacks (though they are in odd places).

    really the only thing we need more of is the power jacks... and the ethernet ports need to be on the other side of the room. o_O

  78. Re:No way, man! Fight for your rights! by fishnuts · · Score: 1

    Careful. It's actually quite easy to implement per-circuit power metering (as they do in colo facilities) One day they're going to realise that charging for excessive power usage would be practical and profitable.

  79. Back when the crust first cooled by frankmanowar · · Score: 1

    There were two 10/100 ethernet ports in a jack that was always located in the center of the wall on one side of the room in all of our dorms... This always led to the buying of enormous ethernet cables and boxing/duct tape to run across the floor ;)

    As far as electrical outlets, they were never a problem, although myself and fellow technologically enabled were known to have more than two power strips (NO, we didn't plug them into each other!). Never really found a need for more outlets in our dorms, just more ethernet!.

    Frank
    --

    "Other bands play, but Manowar KILLS"
  80. Depends on who you ask by IcEMaN252 · · Score: 1

    In my dorm room, my roomate and I each have 6 electrical outlets, a phone jack, and an ethernet port. According to the university, that should be plenty.

    But, between the Microfridge, 3 fans, 2 lights, telephone, cell phone charger, vcr, and computer, I find myself using two extensior cords, a powerstrip, and a 1000VA UPS.

    My point? You can never have enough outlets, and they are never in the right places. I have to run an extension on my cat3, and a 25 foot cat5. Never mind the fact that my Microfridge is running through a lamp socket.

    I'm home for thanksgiving break now, I hope there's not a fire while I'm gone.

    --
    CitrusTV (http://www.citrustv.net): the Nation's Oldest & Largest Entirely Student-Run Television Station
  81. Need ... more ... power! by thskyt · · Score: 1

    I live in Denmark, in a rented flat, where we "only" have a 32 Amps, 400 Volts line going in. We've got three bedrooms and two bathrooms running on a single 16 Amp, 230 Volts breaker and the living rooms share a single 16 Amp breaker, which is still puzlling me. I would have preferred a little more power to my room - the kitchen has its own 16 Amp, 400 Volts line, only needed for the stove, washing machine and fridge. In all rooms we have like 4 dual outlets with breakers at floorlevel and a single one with breaker next to the door, one meter above the floor. I would have liked some grounded outlets in the rooms, but fortunately we do have "HPFI"-relay thingies (surgeprotectors on the mainline with very fast reaction to human interference in the circuit). I'm just glad we don't have to power AC overhere ... 7 computers per person is enough power consumption :)

  82. Try the traditional approach by chunkwhite86 · · Score: 4, Funny

    Just daisy chain like fifteen surge strips together. You end up with tons of usable outlets. Use extension cords + more power strips to get juice to other parts of the room.

    Hint: Hide all of this under a pile of clothes or under your bed so the fire inspector doesn't see it.

    --
    I'd rather be a conservative nutjob than a liberal with no nuts and no job.
    1. Re:Try the traditional approach by flink · · Score: 0

      He-Haw He-Haw He-Haw
      I'm a rock 'n roll outlaw!

    2. Re:Try the traditional approach by geekoid · · Score: 1

      I hide mine under my old newspapers and kindling.

      --
      The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
    3. Re:Try the traditional approach by chunkwhite86 · · Score: 1

      Nice! You're the first to catch my Clutch lyrics!

      --
      I'd rather be a conservative nutjob than a liberal with no nuts and no job.
    4. Re:Try the traditional approach by flink · · Score: 1

      They are one of my favorite bands... I've been into them for about 10 years. Totally awesome to meet another Clutch fan!

  83. Try for greater power efficiency? by Brian+Stretch · · Score: 1

    Anyone try one of these yet? (Bottom of the page, Super Silencer retail box .pdf) Seasonic is claiming significantly greater efficiency than your average PC power supply. I've got one on order (less waste heat ==> less fan noise, and I want QUIET, dammit!), I'll see if it makes a difference on my UPS's load meter. Anyone already have one?

    LCD monitors. If you have the money (yeah, big if) and don't have a really good excuse for running a CRT, buy one. 19" panels are the best bang/buck. Samsung is my favorite brand at the moment. Get a TV tuner card (or one of those ViewSonic N5 convertor boxes so you can shut the PC off) and ditch the separate TV.

    Athlon 64. AMD's Cool & Quiet works very well, I think it was enabled by default in the ASUS K8V BIOS. It drops to 800MHz when you're not doing much and the power consumption goes way down. Even under full load it burns much less power than high-end P4s (65W vs. 100W?). AMD has made substantial progress on transistor leakage, Intel hasn't. The upcoming Intel Prescott "Blast Furnace Edition" (over 100W) ought to be banned from dorms.

    Yes, you could go with a notebook, but they're just not the same...

    Anyhow, since an awful lot of students have a lot more money than I did as an undergrad (WTF is with all the cell phones?!), maybe some of this is useful?

    1. Re:Try for greater power efficiency? by MSTCrow5429 · · Score: 1

      Don't ever get Samsung products. Sure, if they work they work nicely, but chances are you're going to get a defective unit and then they will churn their "refurbished" (read other defective) units as a replacement. They will do this at least eight times and not give you a working unit. See http://www.trenton.bbb.org/nis/newsearch2.asp?ID=1 &ComID=0221000012001552. They don't do that for just one or two pissed off customers.

      --
      Slashdot: Playing Favorites Since 1997
  84. Darn adapters by owlstead · · Score: 2, Interesting
    I do not need more power; I need more outlets. These two are not the same. Currently my whole room has been filled with adapters; get ready for the list.
    • Mobile phone
    • DECT phone
    • Printer
    • Scanner
    • Computer speaker set
    • USB HUB
    • Laptop
    • VIA EPIA external power adapter (ok, in design, so leave it out for now)
    • MIDI keyboard
    • Switch
    • ADSL modem
    • 54Mbit wireless access point
    This is all excluding the normal devices (which I will leave out).

    Question to you techies out there. Is it not possible to device a standard for these kind of devices? It would be nice to have an (upgradable) 12 V DC adapter in the house. Currently almost none of the adapters take just one outlet. Note that I am on 230V since I live in NL (europe). Not that that matters too much, I expect you are experiencing the same problem.
  85. its not about the number of outlets by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    its not about the number of outlets in a room, you can always just split 'em. It is about how much power you're getting (i.e. the fuse threshold) since your dorm room is on one or two breakers max.

    its not uncommon for breakers to go, infact my suitemate's room loses power every other day, and all they have is a TV and two computers.

  86. Had the landlord run new circuits by WuphonsReach · · Score: 1

    Nah... since I'm on good terms with the landlord, I just had them run 3 new circuits to my office (it's an old building) when they re-wired the main panel.

    Otherwise, I think I'd be focusing on Mini-ITX gear and laptops.

    --
    Wolde you bothe eate your cake, and have your cake?
  87. In Technology Quarters by FooAtWFU · · Score: 1

    Living on the so-called "second most-wired campus" in the nation, I found that the room had about 5 electrical outlet spots with two plugs each. Add alarm clocks, microfridge, two laptops, two printers, cordless phone, two PDA cradles, TV, DVD player, PS2, my beautiful 300 watt surround sound system, a spare lamp or two (mmm)... There are about 3 big-old power strips which are just packed full.
    What disappointed me is despite the 10mbps line to the Internet, there were only two outlets. If I use one and my roommate uses one, where do I plug in the old 486 I converted to NetBSD last week? I'm going to have to get some sort of cheap hub, and that means money. If I had money, I'd be using something better than a 486 as my personal web-server/slave machine.

    --
    The World Wide Web is dying. Soon, we shall have only the Internet.
  88. Re:Appliances, WHY? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The four of you shared an electric razor? That's kinda gross, dude.

  89. Own Less Stuff by deaddeng · · Score: 2

    Or leave it at home. Do you really *need* a TV, PC, laptop, 500W sound system, dvd player, PS2, Xbox, etc. in your dorm room?

    Put a TV+FM tuner card and a DVD in your PC and a decent sound card. Get better-quality 5.1/6.1 surround speakers for the PC. One device replaces many, and with an LCD uses little power.

    You'll still *need* the PS2/Xbox I suppose.

    --
    --- .085 as cool; proving that a little knowledge is dangerous
  90. Someone mod this guy up by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
    Currently almost none of the adapters take just one outlet.


    This is one of the biggest problems. Someone needs to get on Underwriters Laboratories' backsides, and get them to require that adapters only take one space.

    The renovation done to the tenant's apartment includes 4 duplex outlets, for a total of 8 plugs, yet I can't stop them from using power strips due to the surge protectors. We tried using the individual surge protectors, but even with 8 plugs, only 2 individual surge protectors fit, because they won't fit one on top of the other, and if placed in the outside left plug, the next plug to the right is useless, the third plug to the right is available, plug a second surge protector in there, and the fourth plug can't be used, and the top row of four plugs can't be used either. With a computer plug and monitor plug, that leaves the scanner, printer, speakers, and other equipment unprotected.

    The same situation exists without computers. The CO2 detector takes two spaces left or right, and the plugs above are useless as well. Three previous cell phones use power adapters that take more than one space. The latest cell phone adapter actually takes only one space, which really surprised me. The same with a battery charger for a flash light, as well as other battery chargers, and a plug in door chime. All take at least two spaces, and usually also block the top plugs, therefore taking four spaces for one plug.

    Anyone working for UL reading this, you need to fix this baloney.

  91. Power problems by danc256 · · Score: 1

    I just moved into a house with circa 1960 wiring. All my gear is in one room. When I found out the outlets weren't even grounded I refused to plug anything in. Had an electrician come in and run a new wire from the breaker panel, and told him this was for computer gear (didn't make any difference). Yes I only have 15A for the entire room, but I do try to not turn on everything at once. In addition to that, other stuff I've done: - Everything is run through a pair of 1KVA APCC UPS's - If I need more outlets (I can hear the cringing) I have an APCC power strip plugged into the UPS (more or less just for the heavy-guage wire). This is primarilly for "wall worts" (hub, firewall, PAD cradle, etc.) - All monitors are LCD - Inkjet printer, no laser printer - Anything w/an AC motor (air cleaner, vacuum cleaner, etc.) is either pluggin in the hall or run when everything else is off. - Try to get devices that can be powered off the USB or Firewire hub or off the computers themselves rather than have yet another power connection Despite this, I'm sure I'm "pushing it" with regard to the load on the circuit.

  92. Underpowered dorms GOOD! by joe170 · · Score: 5, Funny

    When I was living in a dorm, the substandard wiring had a hidden benefit. Every room and half shared a circuit- I was in a "half" room- one wall shared the circuit with the entire room next door, and the other wall shared with the room on that side. This gave me final veto authority over either of my neighbors' (usually poor) choice of music. I had a cut of lamp cord with the wires twisted together inside a big ball of electrical tape. Plug it in, it shuts off your neighbor's stereo (and everything else!). One semester I had a neighbor who liked to blast "Freebird" every afternoon. After the sixth or seventh time I used my "remote", he was out in the hallway swearing about the lousy dorms. A girl walking by innocently suggested that maybe his stereo was blowing the fuse. She didn't know how right she was!

  93. over-loaded by MiSTa'+CHRiSTiE! · · Score: 1

    The res I lived in was built in '67, it had little slender desks capable of supporting a type writer and I think six (3x2) outlets total per room. Unfortunately the circuits were shared between rooms nearest I can tell and it turned out that I could not power both my monitor and computer on the same circuit, had to run an extension cord around the room just to use my monitor without it looking like the surf on a beach.

    I got over the power, it was the squirrels that were the real problem!

  94. Minimalism? by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    OK, I'm officially old. I went to school in the mid '80s and, IIRC, my roommate and I had maybe 10% of what the Miami-Ohio guy had. (An Atari 5200 was among the equipment, btw.)

    Really, though, do you youngins' *really* need all that stuff? :)

  95. Slashdot Needs ... More ... Power .... by sydneyfong · · Score: 1

    Who read it as such?

    I was thinking... woah, another Slashdot server upgrade??

    --
    Don't quote me on this.
  96. At CWRU by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    We only get about 4 individual outlets in the desk area, and 2 over next to the bed, and one next to the door. I needed to put two power strips on the desk and one next to the bed.

    There's also this annoying fluorescent desk lamp right above the desk that is just low enough that you can't slide your computer underneath, and so are forced to put it on the floor (and hope your cables are long enough to go around the side of the desk), lay it on its side on the desk, or put it on one of the shelves above the desk like I do.

  97. 20 Years old is nothing... by HeaththeGreat · · Score: 1

    My past two apartments were 50 and 80 years old respectively. The 50 year old building had only two outlets per room, but we had a really great circuit (15A), so our only problem was that we ran extension cords everywhere. Our manager was even nice enough to let us drill through the walls and string our own RJ-45 cable for the network.

    However, in my second apartment, we had plenty of outlets, it was just that they had only 2-prongs. It was the crappiest of crappy wiring systems. It had 15A that had to also be shared with the refridgerator and A/C. It left something like 6A for the rest of the house. You'll be happy to know that I only blew a circuit once.

    -Heath

  98. Power supply rarely pulls its rating by rebelcool · · Score: 1

    Most PSU's are only capable of drawing less than their rating anyway..I have an antec 350 watt here, but on closer inspection of the label can only pull 328 watts reliably.

    Few computers will ever come close to pulling that amount. The processor takes up the most watts at around 70 for a new powerful one, followed by harddrive (~15), CD (when running), and video card (25 for std. AGP, up to 50 or even 110 for high powered stuff). There will be some draw on the other components but it won't amount to more than a few watts. I'd venture that most computers used in a dorm are only pulling 150 or so regardless of their PSU's rating.

    --

    -

    1. Re:Power supply rarely pulls its rating by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      My last electric bill says I used 827kWh in a 29 day billing cycle. If I did the math right, that averages to about 1200 W/h. This is my TOTAL electrical usage, but even assuming that it was all used for my computers I am still a little below the 80% continuous draw guideline for the 15A 120V circuit in my computer room. I was running as many as 11 computers at a time during this period: 4 Sun SS20s (one Hypersparc at 166mHz and three dual Supersparcs), 2 1.3gHz Athlons, a 1.5gHz Athlon, and 3 1.6gHz Durons, all running at 100% cpu doing OGR or Folding@Home, plus a P166 firewall. I only use one monitor (17") using KVM switches and serial ports to keep tabs on everything. I think I can say with some degree of certainty that computers don't draw their maximum rated current very often.

      I had actually been a little worried lately that I was probably pushing my luck, but I feel a little safer now that I've looked at the numbers. I just have to keep in mind that although my apartment building is less than two years old, there is every indication that they went with the minimum requirements for everything, so chances are that I have 14G wiring.

  99. Power in Haggett Hall by EconomyGuy · · Score: 1

    I lived with a guy for many years who was constantly frustrated with the lack of electrical outlets in our room. For the first year we strung extension cords everywhere... which was really the only option given ONE outlet for the two of us (both computer geeks... with dozens of things to plug in).

    The next year we moved into a triple with another guy, but power was still scarce. To add injury to insult, there was a panel above a desk that was clearly meant to be an outlet but had never been wired. Well... eventually my roommate snapped and decided he was going to fulfill the panel's destiny.

    With the juice running the whole time, my roommate successfully wired a two outlet panel to the wall without shocking himself... except at the very end when he managed to create great arks of light that blew the power on half the floor. Thankfully we were good friends with the RA and had, on other more legitimate projects, blow the power before. Once we flipped the breakers back on, the juice was flowing and he had successfully wired a new outlet.

    We made a number of "improvements" to that room over the year, but I think that one was the best

    --
    Only 120 characters... who can summarize their entire world understanding in 120 characters?!
  100. Just do the math by darco · · Score: 5, Informative

    Just do some simple math and you can avoid overloading a circuit.

    1) Determine the rating of the circuit -- I imagine each dorm room will have one circuit. (Maybe two)
    2) Determine which outlets go to which circuits. If outlets are close together, then they are probably on the same circuit.
    3) Calculate the amps of everything you are plugging into the circuit.
    4) Add them all up.
    5) If they are close to or over the amp rating for the circuit, then you have a problem, and you will have to unplug stuff.

    Important points to remember:

    * Don't forget to check the rating on any power strips that you use! Most are rated at 15 amps, which is probably the same as the circuit you are plugging into.
    * Circuit breakers can momentarily handle more than their rated amps. ie: it might be able to handle 17 amps for, say, 30 seconds before tripping. The higher the amps, the faster the trip. A direct short will (er, should) instantly trip the breaker.
    * Not everything has the amps listed -- some devices only list the watts. You can calculate the amps by dividing the watts by the voltage. ie: your 400 watt computer running on 120 volts will have a max amps of 3.33.
    * If you are in a situation where you have two circuits near your computer, and you overload one, keep this in mind: It is generally a Bad Idea to plug some peripherals into one outlet and others into another. Subtle differences in voltage and phase can lead to a net difference in voltage between your equipment and lead to permanent damage.
    * This may be unfounded (someone correct me if I am wrong), but I always think that it is more dangerous to overload a power-strip than an outlet--meaning that I trust the circuit breaker in the closet more so than I trust the power strip.

    I hope this helps. If you read this and go kill yourself, it's your own damn fault. Use at your own risk. Use common sense, and remember that this IS slashdot.

    --
    — darco
  101. Hmm... I wonder what the load limit in the UK is.. by Zegnar · · Score: 0

    I have 4 sockets here... Running 4*PC, 3*Monitor, Countless USB/Network hubs, TV, VCR, Lighting, Fridge, Clock/radio, countless portable chargers (palmtop/phone/battery/etc), Mofo of a speaker system, and other stuff which is still running in that huge pile of crap which has several cables snaking out to turned on power sockets :) Now, what was the address of that site that posted on slashdot if you didn't sign in for x days, again? :~

  102. Power Consumption by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 5, Informative

    have you considered using a bicycle generator? i.e where you have to pedal for 5 hours a week to charge up a battery which can supply enough power for a TV for an hour or so?

    I've thought of that before. You know, it's a great idea for a few reasons:

    • all those hours of inactivity are turned into exercise
    • makes watching TV a lot more work than doing the studying you really should be doing, so your marks will improve
    • saves you from watching The Matrix for the 700th time when you could be doing more productive things like drinking beer with friends

    I do have to wonder about how bad this dorm room power crisis really is. Let's consider appliances with realistic maximum power consumptions:

    • Computer - 350 watts
    • Monitor - 250 watts
    • Computer speakers - 50 watts (note that this is less than the output "ratings" from the marketing department - your "350W" computer speakers must be violating the laws of conservation of energy)
    • Laser printer - 300 watts
    • Wall-warts for PDA, cellphone, clock-radio, small switched hub or router - 30 watts total
    • Boom box - 50 watts (see Computer Speakers)
    • TV set - 250 watts
    • VCR/DVD player - 50 watts
    • Beer fridge - 300 watts
    • Lights over desk, etc - 200 watts

    Note that many of these loads are intermittent or mutually exclusive. Most laser printers only pull any amount of power when the printer is actually fusing a page. The boom box probably won't be playing loudly at the same time as the computer speakers. And, unless you like to leave the door open, the beer fridge's compressor should be off most of the time.

    And some of these appliances will become duplicates in a shared dorm room, so the realistic likelihood of them being on at once is small.

    1830 watts is the total power consumption for the list of appliances above. In my jurisdiction, commercial buildings (including University residences) have one outlet per 1500W circuit. Most circuit breakers are thermal (takes time to heat up a bimetallic strip in the breaker) and therefore act like slow-blow fuses. And unless you're printing a massive pile of course notes while playing the boom box and computer speakers loudly and doing it with the beer fridge door jammed open, the loads are probably going to be too transient to trip the breaker. So you may have a whole load of power bars plugged into that one outlet, but in reality, it's likely to be perfectly fine.

    On the other hand, dorm rooms are small. It's in the students' best interests - forget power consumption - to slim things down:

    • Computer - 350 watts
    • Monitor - space-saving LCD - 60 watts
    • Computer speakers - 50 watts
    • Laser printer - 300 watts
    • Wall-warts for PDA, cellphone, clock-radio, small switched hub or router - 30 watts total
    • Boom box - play MP3/Ogg/CDs from computer - 0 watts
    • TV set - video card with TV features, preferably not ATI because their software sucks - 0 watts
    • VCR/DVD player - play DVD on computer, and if you absolutely have to rip some video off-air, do it with the computer - 0 watts
    • Beer fridge - 300 watts
    • Lights over desk, etc - 200 watts

    Noting that this scheme is merely a common-sense approach to giving you more space in your dorm room (and making moving at the end of the year that much less painful), your maximum consumption will only be about 1260 watts. Which means that if you've got a circuit, you're fine.

    I'd suggest to universities that they point out in their residence brochures something along the lines of "Moving into and out of residence can be unpleasant. For that reason, we suggest that students attempt to travel as lightly as possible. LCD monitors and video cards with TV inputs will save you space by avoiding having to carry around bulky CRT displays." Maybe offer a small rebate to students who use an LCD monitor and TV-in video card to replace a CRT-based monitor and TV set.

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
    1. Re:Power Consumption by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0
      makes watching TV a lot more work than doing the studying you really should be doing, so your marks will improve

      I hate to be the one to break it to you college kids, but you're wasting your time. Once you get out of college you'll be launched into the unemployment pool with the rest of the losers. It won't matter if you have a 1.0 or a 4.0 grade point average. You'll still be living at home in your parents' basement.

    2. Re:Power Consumption by edhall · · Score: 1

      You forgot a microwave, toaster oven, coffee maker -- all essential dorm-room gear; it's easy to draw 2000 watts during breakfast with these three things alone. Also, don't forget that this is /., so it's unlikely that there's just one computer.

      -Ed
    3. Re:Power Consumption by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      I hate to be the one to break it to you college kids, but you're wasting your time. Once you get out of college you'll be launched into the unemployment pool with the rest of the losers. It won't matter if you have a 1.0 or a 4.0 grade point average. You'll still be living at home in your parents' basement.

      Depends what you're taking. We've got a perpetual shortage of engineers; we can hire 'em as fast as they get their iron rings. Other than the ring, all we care is that they can write a resume.

      On the other hand, if they took had a BA in English Literature or something, they'd probably be able to write a good resume but would have no useful skills once hired.

    4. Re:Power Consumption by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

      You forgot a microwave, toaster oven, coffee maker -- all essential dorm-room gear; it's easy to draw 2000 watts during breakfast with these three things alone. Also, don't forget that this is /., so it's unlikely that there's just one computer.

      Didn't forget that; in school, we weren't allowed any heating appliances in the dorm rooms. Even hair dryers and soldering irons were bad.

      The computers - yeah, I know. But it comes down to real estate - where are you gonna park 2+ computers in your dorm room and still have a flat work surface to do your math homework? I did know a couple of people in res who brought more than one computer, but none of them actually still had them set up after the first week. (Maybe a headless Linux machine off in the corner, but I seriously doubt many students would actually do that.)

      --
      Fire and Meat. Yummy.
    5. Re:Power Consumption by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Didn't forget that; in school, we weren't allowed any heating appliances in the dorm rooms. Even hair dryers and soldering irons were bad.

      In my first dorm there were 5 outlets, 1 of which was ungrounded (above a mirror). We were allowed hair dryers, but if both you and your neighbour used a hair dryer at the same time, a fuse would blow and both rooms would lose power. We weren't allowed heating appliances, but many people had toasters and coffee makers - it was no secret, but the rule was never enforced. People would use their kettles in the hallway because it was the only free grounded outlet they could find.

      But it comes down to real estate - where are you gonna park 2+ computers in your dorm room and still have a flat work surface to do your math homework?

      I have one on the floor (actually a few inches off the ground on a raised stand) with the monitor on the desk, and a laptop on the desk beside the monitor. The desk is about 20cm from the wall so the CRT can be pushed back as far as possible (the base is at the edge of the desk, and the back almost touches the wall). The keyboard and mouse are on a roll-out tray, so there's lots of room to work.

      Last year I had a huge dorm room. It was a single room, but the same size as a double room (but with two people stuffed in there, there wouldn't even be room for a small fridge). It had 20 electrical outlets, all in good locations - including 6 behind the desk, and 6 where the other desk would be located if two people lived there. The wall with my computer desk was so empty I could have fit a couch in there (which might explain why several couches go missing every year).

    6. Re:Power Consumption by swankypimp · · Score: 2, Funny
      where are you gonna park 2+ computers in your dorm room and still have a flat work surface to do your math homework?

      It's called The Library. Not only are there desks there, but you don't have to block out the ambient noise of three idling computers in an enclosed concrete 10' by 8' space.

      --

      --All your stolen base are belong to Rickey Henderson
    7. Re:Power Consumption by atheken · · Score: 1

      it's a steel ring, not iron, I believe..

      On topic:
      At Ohio State University, many of the dorms on North Campus were constructed more then 40 years ago. They are in the process of upgrading the wiring, but one needs to be mindful of what students had at the time..

      Probably more no more than a lamp, small radio, and hairdryer, not the power draw that is mentioned above...

      Furthermore, NEVER, EVER underestimate the ability of college freshmen to consume power.

    8. Re:Power Consumption by Skweetis · · Score: 1
      Good info here. Just a couple of comments on your wattage ratings:
      • Computer: I don't know exactly how much the average computer pulls, but I do know that an average server at work, with 2 processors, 2-3 SCSI drives, a couple of fans, pulls about 40 watts while in operation. The startup surge is 350-400 watts easily, is that what you meant?
      • Monitor: My 19" here is rated at 80 watts. Your assessment that an LCD would be more efficient is right on the mark, though.
      • Computer Speakers: Output watts are watts RMS, a different animal than input current, though certainly related. The average amplifier pulls a little less than a third of its output rating.
      Just one thing to add: Lights could use CF type bulbs, cutting power usage significantly if one can stand the light spectra.
    9. Re:Power Consumption by clymere · · Score: 1

      You're making the mistake of assuming common sense. The setup you described is of your typical college student...not your typical slashdot reader. Another post on this thread had a student cramming something like 10 computers in his dorm room, with an unkown amount of displays. Admittedly, he had never dared to turn them all on at once. I would imagine that a lot of slashdot reading dorm dwellers have come very very close to blowing fuse or tripping a breaker in their dorm.

      --
      once you go slack, you never go back
    10. Re:Power Consumption by CatPieMan · · Score: 1

      I used to trip a surge protector every time I would try to print something with my laser printer if I had everything else on. Then I realised that I had two complete computers plugged into one surge protector (and the protector was about 10 years old). I soon switched it out for a better one and didn't have any trouble with it (it has since been taken apart).

      -CPM

      --
      ---You're all I need, When the water runs deep, You're all I need, Now I cry my soul to sleep -- Collective Soul, Needs
    11. Re:Power Consumption by dave3138 · · Score: 1

      KVM switches anyone?

    12. Re:Power Consumption by weiyuent · · Score: 2, Informative

      Note for comparison that various experts have estimated Lance Armstrong's sustained power output to be about 450W. Mine (with my fit but still typically geek-like physique) is more on the order of 180W, as measured recently on an ergometer. Elite sprinters, of course, put out far more but for only a brief interval.

    13. Re:Power Consumption by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      Lights over desk, etc - 200 watts

      Great Jebus, what is he doing, running an airport landing strip?

      That's five 40W incandescent bulbs. Or no less than fifteen 13W flourescent bulbs which is the equivalent of over 900 watts of incandescent bulbs. Nobody would light an entire room like that, let alone a corner computer area.

      Same for all the rest of the stuff. Have you ever tested a 350 watt computer power supply? I have, and they never actually pull that much power unless they are about to die. Even at full load they don't pull that much.

      TV's to not pull 250 watts. Maybe when you first turn it on (a fraction of a second), but it will never pull that much power normally. Not ever.

      Same with the various speakers you have listed. They will never pull that much power because you'd burn them up overdriving them. Those "watt" ratings are not even close to true power consumption. They're all for selling the products to consumers who think "more is better" (note: it's easy to increase power consumption or "watts" by just using inefficient, crappy components).

    14. Re:Power Consumption by AllenChristopher · · Score: 1
      One halogen lamp can be 200W on its own. Two halogen lamps, one for writing, one for general work-area illumination, can certainly be 200W.

      Normally you'd use smaller halogens on a desk, but if you have a problem with the sun coming through in just the wrong spot in your room and making it hard to read a 100W halogen may be just the ticket.

      This is one of the reasons dorms BEG students not to use halogen lamps.

    15. Re:Power Consumption by karnal · · Score: 1

      I don't think that there's any way that your server is operating on only 40 watts... unless the drives are spun down, and the processors (2) are doing absolutely nothing.

      If I recall, an Athlon can dissipate up to 80 watts of power, depending on the model. So, since this is a server, it's probably in the 50-80 watt range -- per processor, running full tilt. So the processors take more than just 40 watts themselves to run....

      Also, the average amplifier pulls a little less than a third of it's output rating? Meaning when it's not maxed? As far as any type of amplifier is concerned, you can't amplify an input signal without having loss of input power.

      --
      Karnal
    16. Re:Power Consumption by Skweetis · · Score: 1
      This'll probably never be seen, but oh well...

      I don't think that there's any way that your server is operating on only 40 watts... unless the drives are spun down, and the processors (2) are doing absolutely nothing.

      I measured with an "amp clamp" around the mains coming into the circuit, then divided by the number of machines (they all have similar specs). The drives were spun up, and under active use, processors were probably at less than 5% (most server tasks are I/O bound). Draw your own conclusions here. I do know that my desktop at home (800 MHz Athlon, 2 10GB IDE drives, DVD, CDRW, 512MB RAM, TNT2, SBLive!, couple of fans) pulls 15-20 watts at 120V, depending on load. My machine has a 300 watt power supply. This means it is rated for a maximum of 300 watts at 12 volts, which would be a draw of 30 watts at 120 volts (assuming it is maxed). If nothing else, I'm not stressing my power supply that much.

      If I recall, an Athlon can dissipate up to 80 watts of power, depending on the model. So, since this is a server, it's probably in the 50-80 watt range -- per processor, running full tilt. So the processors take more than just 40 watts themselves to run....

      Your Athlon dissipates 80 watts at 3 volts or something (I'm not sure what the actual voltage is on a recent Athlon). That translates into 2 watts at 120V (assuming 3 volts - modify for what it really is, also assuming no power usage or drain in between the wall and the processor, which is a pretty big assumption - I'm only off by a watt or two either way though). Remember, watts = volts / amps. My servers are Xeons, but I imagine they are similar to Athlons in power profile.

      Also, the average amplifier pulls a little less than a third of it's output rating? Meaning when it's not maxed? As far as any type of amplifier is concerned, you can't amplify an input signal without having loss of input power.

      See my earlier comment about the input watts being only tangentally related to the output watts.

    17. Re:Power Consumption by JsTwO · · Score: 1

      no idea what u r saying. but power has nothing to do with voltage. u need 1000w for a sec to raise 1 lite water 1c, either it's by gas, 100v or 10v.

    18. Re:Power Consumption by Yottabyte84 · · Score: 1

      Watts = Volts * Amps

      80W / 3V = 26.7A
      80W / 110V = 0.73A

      I am not sure what the realation between watts of heat output and watts of power is, though. Someone care to explain?

    19. Re:Power Consumption by shepd · · Score: 1

      >This means it is rated for a maximum of 300 watts at 12 volts, which would be a draw of 30 watts at 120 volts (assuming it is maxed).

      There's your error.

      Watts are a measurement of power. Volts are a measurement of "pressure". Amps (not mentioned) are a measurement of speed.

      100 Watts at 120 volts, 12 volts, or 1 volt will provide exactly the same amount of power.

      Considering a modern athlon computer is likely to blow up a 200 watt PSU, and work OK on a 300 watt PSU, I'd say a safe guess is about 250 watts of output power used on a personal PC. Which means, counting in inefficiencies, about 300 - 350 watts of power drawn from the outlet.

      >Remember, watts = volts / amps

      Sorry, resistance = Volts / Amps... :-)

      If you used a clamp on Ammeter, you need to multiply the figure displayed by your local voltage (probably 120 volts) to get watts.

      --
      If you could be told what you can see or read, then it follows that you could be told what to say or think - BoC
    20. Re:Power Consumption by Skweetis · · Score: 1
      Watts = Volts * Amps

      Completely correct. Careless error on my part. No clue on the relationship between heat watts and regular watts :).

    21. Re:Power Consumption by Skweetis · · Score: 1
      100 Watts at 120 volts, 12 volts, or 1 volt will provide exactly the same amount of power.

      Considering a modern athlon computer is likely to blow up a 200 watt PSU, and work OK on a 300 watt PSU, I'd say a safe guess is about 250 watts of output power used on a personal PC. Which means, counting in inefficiencies, about 300 - 350 watts of power drawn from the outlet.

      Okay, as you mention later on, since one needs to multiply amps by volts to get watts (watts = volts / amps was a careless error on my part), watts must therefore vary in relation to volts. Therefore, assuming a constant current, the 300 watts at 12 volts (what the rating on your computer's power supply means) is going to be 30 watts at 120 volts coming out of the wall (probably with a small drain for AC->DC conversion, I'm not very familiar with power conversion though, maybe you can help out here).

      If you used a clamp on Ammeter, you need to multiply the figure displayed by your local voltage (probably 120 volts) to get watts.

      That's exactly how I arrived at the original 40-watt figure. Allow for some margin of error on the exact figure, as I checked at the mains coming into the circuit, got 6.6 amps (at 120 VAC), and divided by the 20 machines on the circuit (all have fairly similar specs, the variation is just RAM and disk sizes) to get 39.6 watts per machine (which I rounded up to 40, so sue me :)).

    22. Re:Power Consumption by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      [Y]ou don't have to block out the ambient noise of three idling computers in an enclosed concrete 10' by 8' space.

      I call that sound my "comfort zone." It feels really creepy being alone in a room without the sound of actively cooled electronics.

      No, I don't get out much. What makes you ask?

    23. Re:Power Consumption by Mr+Z · · Score: 1

      "Heat Watts" are "regular" Watts. If you dissipate 1000W for 1 second, that means you've put 1000 Joules of energy somewhere. Possibilities include:

      • Raising the temperature of something (increased its internal energy),
      • Making something move (increased its kinetic energy),
      • Generating light/radio waves (electromagnetic energy), or
      • Triggering a chemical process (such as charging a battery--increasing its potential energy).

      Most of the energy we put into computers eventually comes back out as heat and electromagnetic radiation. (RFI and light from the monitor are both EM.) Even the mechanical energy in HD platters eventually dissipates as heat.

      --Joe
    24. Re:Power Consumption by shepd · · Score: 1

      >Therefore, assuming a constant current, the 300 watts at 12 volts (what the rating on your computer's power supply means) is going to be 30 watts at 120 volts coming out of the wall (probably with a small drain for AC->DC conversion, I'm not very familiar with power conversion though, maybe you can help out here).

      No problem.

      Watts are just usable power. If you were to compare it to kinetic energy, think of it this way:

      Wether you lift a 100 LB stone to the top of a cliff quickly or slowly, the amount of energy available from that stone falling is identical. This is like your power/watts. When you drop that stone, it's going to fall at the same rate and cause the same amount of damage wether you've lifted it with a forklift or a block and tackle.

      Therefore, if a device uses 100 watts, it will use 100 watts at 10 volts, or 100 watts at 100 volts. The current will vary to suit the equation.

      That means 300 watts at 12 volts (which uses 25 amps) would use, assuming perfectly efficient power coversion (not likely, but no sense making this more complicated than necessary) 300 watts at 120 volts (which uses 2.5 amps). A device cannot "take" more current than it is designed to. A device will, however, always use all the available voltage (it has to).

      That's why hooking up a ghetto blaster to a car battery is just as safe as using AA batteries. The car battery can't "force" more current into the device. The only way to do that is to increase voltage.

      Hope that helps.

      >That's exactly how I arrived at the original 40-watt figure. Allow for some margin of error on the exact figure, as I checked at the mains coming into the circuit, got 6.6 amps (at 120 VAC), and divided by the 20 machines on the circuit (all have fairly similar specs, the variation is just RAM and disk sizes) to get 39.6 watts per machine (which I rounded up to 40, so sue me :)).

      Okay. Well, I would say either the meter isn't displaying the correct current usage, or you are a special case... Which is totally possible. Computers do tend to use less current when idle, but 40 watts seems low considering a laptop battery holds up to 6 AH at 6 volts (that's a life of 1 hour at 36 watts draw). I sorta doubt a desktop machine uses the same power as a laptop, but anything is possible! :-)

      --
      If you could be told what you can see or read, then it follows that you could be told what to say or think - BoC
    25. Re:Power Consumption by Skweetis · · Score: 1
      Well, one last reply to this thread, then I'm done...

      Okay. Well, I would say either the meter isn't displaying the correct current usage, or you are a special case... Which is totally possible. Computers do tend to use less current when idle, but 40 watts seems low considering a laptop battery holds up to 6 AH at 6 volts (that's a life of 1 hour at 36 watts draw). I sorta doubt a desktop machine uses the same power as a laptop, but anything is possible! :-)

      Hmm. I dug up my old beginning EE textbook from college, and looked up some stuff. You, and a couple of other posters, are correct. Watts remain constant, amps vary. I was incorrectly assuming constant amps.

      Assuming my earlier test to be inaccurate, I decided to do some more (Thanks to the techs at work for humoring my curiosity and letting me play with their machines and spare parts!). I got two more multimeters from different manufacturers (in case one was inaccurate) and tested a few machines:

      1. Individual server from the earlier test: 0.4 amps. (Note: Differences between the two multimeters were negligible.)
      2. Another server in the rack: 0.3 amps. (I tested all of them in the end (see why below), they were all in the same general range as these two.)
      3. An average desktop (Athlon XP 2000+, 512 RAM 80GB HDD, GeForce 4, DVD, CDRW): 0.3 amps.
      4. My laptop (Dell Latitude D600). Didn't register on two meters, hit 0.1 amps briefly on another. (I wish I had a meter with better than 0.1 resolution). Note here that the battery was fully charged at the time, so the power supply may have been idle (take this with a grain of salt, I don't know how this really works).
      I messed about with the Athlon a bit more, as I was interested by someone's earlier comment that they can dissipate 80 watts, and the machine was only using 36 watts. Someone else had a theory that an Athlon would blow a 200 watt power supply. For a quick test, I swapped the 350 watt supply in the machine for a 120 watt supply from the spare parts bin. The machine worked fine, still registered 0.3 amps, but got a little warmer as the fan in the smaller supply didn't move as much air (still reasonably safe temperatures though).

      I did note that if all my servers were in the same range as the first two, the total draw would be more than my initial test showed. I tested the rest of the servers. The total on those added up to 7 amps even. The clamp meter on the mains still shows less. I chalk it up to inaccuracy of the clamp meter, although it served its intended purpose fine, which was to tell me that I could add ten more machines to the 40 amp circuit without any problem. I don't have another clamp style meter to test this theory any further.

      Conclusions? Nothing solid. I learned some EE stuff I had forgotten from college. I don't think computers use nearly as much power as is generally thought (can't say conclusively, I could have a lot of bad multimeters too :-)).

  103. Use a generator by CapnCarrot · · Score: 1

    How about a gasoline generator kept in your dorm room? It's benefits are twofold. Firstly, you get more power. Secondly, you'll have no problems getting to sleep. Once. My post college apt has ethernet in every room, I was instantly sold on it. It could have been next to a pig farm & I still probably would have signed the lease. My college dorm though definetly didn't have enough outlets. We just snaked extension cords, power strips, and ethernet cables from whatever outlets weren't getting used. That worked, but you did NOT want to walk around in the dark.

  104. another problem... by mr_burns · · Score: 1

    Grounding. Right now I'm in an apartment where the only path to gound is through the cable tv/internet coax. So ground is reversed in the cable modem. If I unplug the cable I have no ground on my other devices. Sometimes the grounding light on my surge protector(s) "pulses".

    I'd gladly trade some of my outlets for properly grounded power.

    --
    "Let him go, Ralph. He knows what he's doing." --Otto Mann (simpsons)
    1. Re:another problem... by JK+Master-Slave · · Score: 1

      It's non-standard and probably illegal, but by god you need to be safe. If you have metal pipe plumbing in your apartment, get some heavy braided cable (doesn't need to be insulated) and establish a ground. Externally patch it into your power strips and outlets. Make sure you use a high quality grounding clamp to establish the ground to the metal pipe. Don't connect anything with just twisted ends. It's unsafe to not have grounded circuits in your wiring, and while a makeshift ground isn't really good, it's better than nothing.

  105. well... by Dreadlord · · Score: 1

    I actually had a similar problem before, my room in the apartment I used to live in had only 2 outlets, I had to use extensions for my countless electronic devices, later, when I moved to my new apartment, I made sure I had many outlets everywhere in my room, even if it was very unlikely to use, just to make sure not to use extensions, I don't worry about cable hassle any more.

    --
    The IT section color scheme sucks.
  106. Make your own by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    When I lived in the dorms we just wired up an extra outlet from the wall A/C unit. Before that we didn't have enough outlets though.

  107. Geeks Make Bad Floormates by Vagary · · Score: 1

    Back when I was in residence the students who had TVs in their room tended to be both asocial and pampered. Those with microwaves were finnicky eaters. And those with printers required copious tech support (from geeks down the hall like myself).

    Maybe these students should grow up and learn to live without every little electronic device? Leaving your room and talking to someone instead of one more vibrator session in front of your Star Trek DVDs will probably make you a more interesting person. You might meet someone cool while standing in the lab printing out your F-quality essay. And learning how to brush your teeth with a manual brush will be indispensible after the revolution.

  108. Location, location, location by ottffssent · · Score: 1

    The problem is not the paucity of outlets, per se. The problem is the need for a lot of power in one place.

    Along three linear feet of wall, I have plugged in:
    4 computers, 1 monitor, one switch, one wireless access point, one battery backup (requires a 20A socket - adapted to use 2 15A sockets, which is OK since it's a 20A circuit behind them), one laser printer, and one lamp. That represents just under half the electrical devices in my room which need plugging in, and probably about 80% of the total power requirements.

    This is the sort of problem that leads students to plug one power strip into another one (that, and their penchant for buying cheap extension cords), and overload circuits. Having four times as many outlets in the room would only help if there were more outlets within a few feet of what needs to be plugged in.

  109. my dorm room... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    ... didn't have anything grounded when i first entered it. it also used 10-amp glass fuses.... the microwave used 8.8A of that, which makes using my computer for CS240 a bit difficult. I got an electrician to fix it though.

  110. Renovations - electrical and gray water by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 3, Informative

    A properly designed electrical system in the home with the correct surge equipment at the front end (the electrical box) solves all these problems. from surges in the house from flipping on grandma's 40 year old stand mixer to nasty surges from the factory down the street.

    Agreed. But there's still more to it than that.

    Surge suppressors on the power entry, just after the main switch. *Large* breaker box.

    And if you're building the house - or doing extensive work involving the removal of lots of drywall anyway - rewire the whole house. Build it to commercial specs, even if your residential requirements are lighter.

    My suggestion is to use conduit for all wiring, and make sure that you put in extra conduit all over the place so that you can fish network and phone cables into any room as required. Put each duplex outlet on a separate 15A circuit (20A circuits are against code in residences in most jurisdictions). GFI outlets aren't just for bathrooms - they're not very expensive, so put them everywhere - they can save your life and your electronics from damage (say your stereo has a ground leak and you connect it to your computer). And make sure that you have an outlet at least every 10 feet in every room.

    While you're doing all that, of course, you should be installing a residential sprinkler system. (Why? Sprinklers massively improve the fire safety of a house or commercial building. And it's a lot easier to clean up water damage than fire damage.) The reduction in your insurance rates over a few years might well pay for your entire renovation costs, and talk to your insurance company about the fact that the building is wired to commercial standards for another potential savings.

    Other things to consider: While you've got the house apart, insulate the piss out of it, whether you're in a warm or cold climate.

    You might also want to install a gray water system for the toilets. It's against code in my jurisdiction, but I don't really care because it's a good idea. The premise is simple: my toilet is almost 50 years old. It's not one of those stupid "water-efficient" toilets that takes 6 flushes to get rid of dark matter. And I don't like urinating in perfectly clean water - there's no point. So I put a 55 gallon drum in the basement. The bathtub U-trap (unscrew the washout nipple and find a piece of pipe of the same thread, make sure you still have a bend in the hose for a three-way U-trap) and washing machine now drain into the barrel. Using bleach in a cotton white cycle not only keeps your shirts blindingly white, but also keeps algae out of the barrel. Near the top of the barrel is an overflow pipe which takes excess stored water to the drain. A burglar alarm magnetic switch on the toilet's float now controls a relay which turns on a small pump. Gray water is pumped through a small hose up into the toilet tank, using a fountain pump with 15 feet of head.

    Since I live in a cold climate and like hot showers, not only am I reclaiming the water, but I'm also reclaiming the heat. The water in the barrel cools down slowly, releasing its heat into the house. Saves me over $200 a year in heat and water costs.

    A fringe benefit is that warm soapy water in the toilet dissolves stuff better than cold tap water, so the toilet doesn't need to be cleaned as often.

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
    1. Re:Renovations - electrical and gray water by axelbaker · · Score: 1

      While your at it consider running more energy efficient lighting, as well as redoing all your door and window seals so you have less influx of hot or cold air straining your HVAC system.
      And some one mod this guy up.

    2. Re:Renovations - electrical and gray water by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

      While your at it consider running more energy efficient lighting, as well as redoing all your door and window seals so you have less influx of hot or cold air straining your HVAC system.

      Yeah, replace all windows that are more than about 20 years old; at the very least, install outside storm windows if you don't have them.

      Sit down and carefully compare your heating costs based on the projected efficiency of your furnace and the costs of energy. In my case, it's cheaper to heat electrically than by oil or gas, so energy efficient lighting isn't a concern - every watt wasted by tungsten is serving to heat the house, so it's okay with me. (Besides, I hate fluorescent lighting.)

      And some one mod this guy up.

      Thanks!

      --
      Fire and Meat. Yummy.
    3. Re:Renovations - electrical and gray water by bluGill · · Score: 1

      Why bother with conduit when the house you just descibed will last at most 3 years before it is unlivable due to mold? Insulation sounds good, but modern hosues are so tight already that contractors consider themselves luck to have most survive, and there is much more effictive insultaition then the minimal they are putting in that will only make the problem worse.

    4. Re:Renovations - electrical and gray water by alexburke · · Score: 1

      Christ, Lawrence, you never cease to amaze me. If you're ever in Kingston, drop me a line.

    5. Re:Renovations - electrical and gray water by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 2, Funny

      Ok, so you've got bleach in the tank...

      Bleachy water pumped back into the toilet bowl...

      You go for a massive shit...

      While dropping a huge depth-charge, you get bleachy splash-back on your ringpiece...

      I'm not convinced...

  111. In school .... by tim_mathews · · Score: 1

    I had everything plugged in to one 15A circuit, that's all we got. "Everything", is a 19" CRT (probably used the most power), two Dual-CPU systems with several hard drives each, and about a half dozen pentium based machines. I never had any issues, even with the microwave running. I'm sure it was close though. I'm not sure if the lights were on the same circuit or not, I think it was just bad shielding in the stereo that made it hum when the lights were on.

  112. Solving the wrong problem. by IGnatius+T+Foobar · · Score: 1

    They are absolutely solving the wrong problem. I was in college from 1988 to 1993 (yeah, the old five year plan) and I only had limited access to computers while I was there. I brought one along to type up term papers and make the occasional long-distance call to my BBS at home, but for the most part I didn't spend much time at the keyboard, even though I pursued a CS minor.

    And you know what? I'm really happy about it. So many different experiences transpired during those five years. Horizons broadened, friendships deepened, memories were made. All because I wasn't spending all my time behind the keyboard.

    With lots of power and lots of connectivity, will today's university students have the good sense to leave the dorm once in a while? The average geek who got picked on by everyone in high school is suddenly going to realize that in college, the stigma is gone, and finally come out of his or her shell ... but only after getting out from behind the keyboard.

    --
    Tired of FB/Google censorship? Visit UNCENSORED!
  113. I live in a triple dorm... by Peterus7 · · Score: 1

    Or at least a dorm where they shoved 3 people where there was only meant for there to be two. The thing is we don't really have problems with power outlets as we all have a lot of surge strips, but it's the Lan ports that run short. Still, I find that there's usually enough power running around when I activate the human power cells installed in our beds. (Become a human battery, pay for college.)

  114. Yah. Finally! by amix · · Score: 1

    Yesss, finally someone who can respect my decision to equip all my rooms with redundant power-, coax- (TV+FM) and phone-outlets.

    Though, I ripped the phone-outlets and replaced it with CAT5e, HARHARHAR!

    My appartment was being renovated completely in 1999. And I *knew* oh so exactly what will happen. I knew it, I just knew it !

    So I instructed the architect to equip each room with two phone-outlets and redundant power-outlets, I got even TV+FM coax in the kitchen.
    I also added, that I want networking, to which he replied: "Sure, your appartment will be modern for the next ten years." Hmm...

    I went to hospital, Mom supervised them. One day I got a call from Mom and the electrician was right at place. So I told him: Network! Network. E-T-H-E-R-N-E-T. He answered: "Yeah, yeah, network. Computer. Internet. I know. Dadidadi-Dumm."

    Somehow I had a strange feeling about that guy.

    When I came back I found /his/ network: None! He though: Since I am going to have phone-lines anywhere I will be able to simply plug in a modem and call my ISP.

    God, how awfull. Sadly I never managed meeting him in the dark on a lone street...

    Anyway, I tore the phonestrips out (who needs them anyway these days with wireless DECT-phones) and replaced all by CAT5e, which I split, so I got two LAN ports per room. It would have been possible to keep one as phone-line, but as I said, I have a DECT.

    I am sooo satisfied now. I can bring the girls home ! I switch on the STB (Linux, of course) in my bedroom and we watch the news, that get streamed from the MediaServer I have built and which is in the living-room. Chicks are not really interested in how it works, but I don't mind. It would be much worse to start each time over: "No, darling, the cables can not be torn away, the *need* to be on the floor, since this is *how* we watch TV.
    What ? I have done stupid ? Why I do not do it like the other guys ? Using a TV with antenna ?" Huahuahua.

    *I* *won* ! :-)

    Just...I am short on power-outlets again. I have really a lot, but I already have started adding extendors. Too bad. But I did not know four years ago, I would have three computers in my living-room. And what I saved by dumping the HiFi, SAT-box and VCR is now being consumed by two servers, a force-feedback joystick, the switch and misc-equipment.

    Now all I'd need would be good surges. Not those el-cheapo ones. I mean, real surges with line-conditioner, computed up to the joule.

    BTW: Anyone got that formula, how to compute the surge ? One must check the Joule and... Please post, thanks :)

    --
    Hello?? Fred?! Is this you?
  115. dorm power by wolf_m16 · · Score: 0

    start out w/cheap power strips on all outlets. For the computers + clocks I use an APC UPS. I generally have 2-3 heavy duty 25-50 foot extension cables running around the edges of the rooms and under carpets. for the phones I use APC surge strips (the APC stuff is insured, if stuff gets fried they buy me new stuff).

  116. Blowing circuts with computers? by axelbaker · · Score: 1

    You are whining about blowing circuits with your computer? I have to turn off everything in my house every time I plug in my welder to a dedicated 220 in the garage. If I don't i blow the main for the house every time. If I turn the welder up I can draw 220v at 70 amps. It doesn't help that its an 80 year old house.
    But on a more realistic note, I would hate to have you peoples power bills. Has it occurred to you that maybe you should think about using a little less power? Out here in CA we have had rolling blackouts because of idiots who can't turn off the 45 appliances in their house they aren't using, and still have a 30 year old electric hot water heater. Maybe you should go check out Energystar.gov

  117. Re:A lot of electronics don't use too much power.. by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    We had two space heaters in my dorm room. They were called Slot-A Athons. 65 watts apeice for the CPUs, plus what the rest of the computer hardware put out. One of my roomates even printed up a little "Heat by AMD" placard to stick in the window.

  118. Re:15PC Kettle by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    The UK system is also somewhat unique, in that the plugs themselves are fused. You can daisy-chain as many 4-way adaptors as you like, secure in the knowledge that should you exceed the 13A maximum rating for the outlet the fuse in the first 4-way's plug will blow. This also allows for the ring-main architecture of wiring in the walls that makes adding additional outlets to an existing system a lot less of a headache than it is on a purely spur-based system.

    Of course running at 220/240V (or '230V' as it's know known) inherently makes for lower currents than the somewhat scary levels the leftpondians are talking about.

  119. Dorm outlets by Tojo-Mojo · · Score: 1

    Two years ago the dorm room I lived in was made for two people and had six outlets. Unfortunately, all six outlets were right next to each other, and stuck on the front of the heater (somehow) below the windows so they weren't very useful... Ethernet/phone/coaxial were all together coming out of one spot so in the end there was a group of two extension cords, one phone, one ethernet, and one coaxial cable carrying everything through my half over to my roommate's half of the room.

    This year I have an air conditioner-grade extension cable into a 1-3 adapter which has three surge protectors plugged into it, all of which are completely filled (total of about 6 std plugs and 7 adapters)... and that's only my computers, the tv/ps2/etc is all on the other side of the room.

    So if there's any outlet adding, it's not happening at my school. But then again what is?

  120. Lack of big power strips by phr2 · · Score: 1
    One thing that's always annoyed me is the difficulty of finding power strips with lots of outlets, like 10 or more. Six-outlet strips are everywhere, 8-outlet ones are available at CompUSA for 20 bucks or so. I know a guy with a 12-outlet one in his workshop and I'd dearly like to get one like it, but he doesn't know where it came from. I end up using several 6-outlet ones plugged together, which is a big mess.

    Running out of power really isn't an issue, since most of the devices I want to plug in are low powered (dsl router, cell phone charger, etc). On the other hand, many of them are powered by wall warts, which means the power strip needs to have some space between the outlets so the wall wart doesn't cover two outlets.

    Any suggestions?

    1. Re:Lack of big power strips by dacetone · · Score: 1

      I found a *huge*, industrial power strip at Fry's Electronics. It reminded me of the ones that you find mounted in science labs at school, with ~12 ports, seperated by ~3 inches on each side. It looked perfect, as I have the same problem as you.

      --
      Just follow the day, and reach fo
    2. Re:Lack of big power strips by sik+puppy · · Score: 1

      Grainger, or Greybar. You can get 12' 24 outlet strips from them - be prepared to drop $75-$100 though.

      I use these all the time in racks, 1 for primary power, 1 for generator backed supplies.

      --
      The first thing we do, let's kill all the lawyers. Shakespeare, Henry VI, Part 2, Act 4, Scene 2
  121. Blackout when burning a CD? by dfung · · Score: 1

    I *never* want that to happen. That's why I run my computer on a 3000VA UPS.

    And I never accidentally make a CD coaster. Even when the UPS goes active to top off it's charge and flips the breaker for the rest of the building. :-)

    1. Re: Blackout when burning a CD? by tkajstura · · Score: 1

      Plugging appliances in in my room isn't a big problem. My roomate and I have 10 power plugs, only need one phone, and have two ethernet plugs (which is enough when you hook up a wireless 802.11g hub in (which everyone in the dorm in turn thanks you for doing). My dorm has also never had problems with using too much power at once.
      As luck would have it however, I have had a blackout when burning a CD - as the wind does pick up pretty well at flat Oberlin, Ohio.
      I do assure you however, the (now) coaster is serving me well keeping me from paying fines for stained furniture.

  122. Imagine a Beowulf cluster of these... by dbirchall · · Score: 1
    But not for cases where "these" equal power strips.

    And not in your dorm room.

  123. Tons of Plugs by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    and they still arent enough, I have about 10 things plugged into every jack. I routinely nock out the circut and have to call Physical Plant to go reset em. They should just give me a key.

  124. thoughts. by themusicgod1 · · Score: 1

    ok, what i say isn't completely relevant, because i wasn't accepted into my local dorms until this past fall, when i had allready landed a killer living arrangement in my old boss's basement.

    but when i was living on my own in an apartment, i saved power. i mean this. i used leftover candles for light(and usually lived in the dark, worked or slept during dark hours, used sunlight during the day.) i had one computer,(a 386), which i used only when i had at minnimum two things that simply HAD to be done(usually replying to email, which wouldn't take too long). i used cold water to "cook" my noodles in, and cooked coffee when i needed to with a drip-pot(wish i would have thought of what i use now, a drip-pot with a thermos beside it :D)...but anyway, since at the time i hadn't really tried using my fridge or stove, my power should have been at pretty much nothing. i had no heat whatsoever(this is in saskatchewan, canada, mind you...so things got kind of cold...)..didn't vaccuum,and that was it.

    what did i find? i lost a lot of time. mabye not quite as much time as i would have spent on the internet reading slashdot, but i lost a lot of time. i was constantly tripping on things in the dark, my diet was horrible, so i was continually fainting from not eating enough, because i had no internet access/a shitty computer i have not really gone as far as i would have liked to by now in the computer science feild---if i spent half as much time wasted living in the dark reading Linux HOWTO's id be a power user by now, instead of still pretty much a noob. i used a record player for music...etc...i wasn't exactly living a luxorious life.

    now? i have three computers, two running, one for backups and hard drive space, the other for my webserver/workstation...the third for experiments...and another computer coming in the mail. the load average of both computers are pretty much constantly > 1.0, and most of my hard drives are 98+% full.

    because i use a walkman with rechargable batterries i don't have to flip records every 20 minutes, which is really, really nice. whats' nicer is internet radio...after all, why break from concentration of study to change a cd? why change from the concentration of study to unplug/plug something in? i am sitting here, to the front is my internet monitor/keyboard, to my right is my math study/pile...whenever my mind strays from math i just reach over and google it...if i get hungry, i walk upstairs, microwave something, and go back downstairs... there is so little distraction i have gone upwards of 14 hours of constant, productive work, without so much even noticing that the time was going by...no interruptions, because everything works, and is automated, allowing me to spend more time studying...and that's the goal here. i can figure a way to save money, and be green with electricity when i have a degree.

    what is the point here? don't waste your time plugging/unplugging things, if you can afford it. go for a low power solution, but be aware of your needs, and what would be enough power to live comfortably on. not everyone needs a geek's level of electricity, but a geek does.

    --
    GENERATION 26: The first time you see this, copy it into your sig on any forum and add 1 to the generation.
  125. Surge Protectors by cgenman · · Score: 1

    Start every power chain with a surge protector... preferably one with a small fuse that can be tripped by too much draw. Spread out anything heavy-draw and constant (airconditioner gets its own circuit), and put intermittent things on opposite circuits. If possible, use a power brick.

    Consolidate your electronics. a TV card in a computer is good, a TV card in a laptop is better. Unless you are a DJ, your amplified stereo equipment is really overkill in a 5'x7' room. Your neighbors will thank you if you get a good pair of Lansing computer speakers for music. All dorms have a communal VCR / DVD player, and it is more fun to watch with everyone. Hair dryers should be used in the bathroom, not on your PC's circuit. A printer in your room may be convienient, but the PC lab down the hall has one that is cheaper, and whose output looks better than yours ever will.

    Flourescent lighting is your friend, not those nasty Halogen things. Get translucent blinds (in addition to the regular ones), so that you can get some natural lighting. Remember, if it's filtered through plastic it won't burn your skin.

    Just some battle-won ideas.

  126. Sheesh by donutello · · Score: 1

    Older houses and apartments were built to older building codes - you know the ones that let you have single-paned windows, asbestos insulation, lead-based paints?

    Modern building codes require that there be an outlet no more than 6' away from every corner and on long walls there be an outlet within 6' of every point on the wall. They also specify a much higher amperage on every circuit.

    Older houses/buildings/dorms were built to the requirements of their day. New ones are being built to newer standards and some older ones are being updated to newer standards (more outlets, double-paned glass, etc.) Nothing new here.

    --
    Mmmm.. Donuts
  127. Fight over the hall outlet! by jago25_98 · · Score: 1

    Well some people I know don't have any... :p

    But my way of fixing was -

    Fight over the hall outlet!

    Least soutlets I've had is 2. Landlord in UK seem to cater well for students as long as the rooms are new.

  128. outlets by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    At Lousiana Tech, our dorm only had 2 prong outlets. This was the honors dorm, also, so we had a much larger amount of electronic equipment than regular students.

    Last year, the dorm caught on fire.

    Officially, it was due to the Air Conditioner.

    But it was only a matter of time before something happened, due to the chaining of surge protectors, all leading back to ungrounded outlets.

    Oh, and another official report stated that the fire alarms were going off. As someone with first hand knowledge, running out of the dorm, there were no fire alarms. So you cant always believe the "official" reports. Most sudents believe the crappy wiring was at fault, and not the AC.

  129. My dorm was built over 50 years ago by zaffir · · Score: 1

    We have four outlet plugs. Two near where the bed is for alarm clocks, two near our desks. Needless to say, with our fridge, gamecube, xbox, TV, two computers + monitors, cell phones, palm pilots, and other items, we have to string together a ton of power strips. I think i'm using 2 just for myself, and my roommate has two for him, and we 'share" one for our lamps and alarm clocks when reading. Our "network" jack is actually a Cat 11; we had to spend $20 on a cable that'll go from Cat 11 to Cat 5. And we only have one jack, so we had to provide our own hub. It's really bad, and the giant rennovations that are slated for my room will only address the network problem, which means i bought a $20 cable for 3 months of use.

    --
    "Upon attaching the waterblock to my penis, I began to notice that I know nothing about computers." -- JRockway
  130. The real trick to rooms with few power outlets is: by gte910h · · Score: 1

    Buying several 4 socket UPS units and putting them on each real socket(2 per outlet), except for perhaps one you run a mini-fridge off of. Then, most of the power fuctuations you're going through are buffered by that capacitor+battery system, and in the off chance a breaker does blow, only the fridge will shut off. You also get hella good protection for your electronics as far as surge protection goes.

    You can get 5-6 socket ones for $39 on pricewatch. Its well worth it. And when you do blow a breaker, all the UPS's will "sing" to you as my girlfriend calls it.

    In any case, you should get renters insurance no matter HOW you use your electronics in your room. You neighbors aren't being that safe, and can destroy all your stuff in the blink of an eye.

    And I have no clue if the power management this guy has works with linux servers. I don't set that up on any of my computers.

    --
    Want to see every step I took to start my company? http://www.rowdylabs.com/blogs/pitchtothegods
  131. Nit: all single phase by bluGill · · Score: 1

    All the power in a US house is single phase. It is incorrect to refer to 220 in the US as two phase. Two phase means that the two phases are 90 degrees apart. 220 is single phase, 120 is half of 220. (for historical reasons US power is refered to as 220 and 120 volts, one half the other, it doesn't ad up so don't try) Two phase power is extreemly rate, I'm told it exists but I don't know where or why. Three phase is common in industry, and a few home shops have it (to run cheap surplus industrial equipment).

    1. Re:Nit: all single phase by calidoscope · · Score: 2, Informative
      The American residential electrical service traces its roots to Edison's Pearl Street station in 1882 - DC at plus/minus 120V. Single phase service simply replaces the +/- with 0/180 degree phases. The 110/220, 115/230 and 120/240 refer to the min/medium/max expected voltages in a residence.

      In the US, three phase installations tend to be 120/208 wye connected for office and light industrial and 460 delta connected for the heavier stuff. In Sweden, virtually all houses have three phase delivery, 220/390.

      There were some two phase systems in the early days of the electric power industry, typically these are where you need three conductors and where on conductor is at ground potential. The turbo-electric plant on the Lexington and Saratoga (CVA-2 and CVA-3) were two phase since the hull served as the grounded conductor.

      As for frequency, the US standardized on 60 Hz as a reaction to Europe standardizing on 50 Hz, although Southern California Edison didn't make the switch until 1947/48. Some communities had 25 Hz power, and one had 133 Hz. DC was available in some cities until very recently. Homes on windmills in the 30's and 40's usually had 32V power which was also used by the majority of US RR passenger cars.

      --
      A Shadeless room is a brighter room.
  132. Power outage by anon*127.0.0.1 · · Score: 1

    We lived in a duplex that was built in the 30's. Our problem was a lack of grounded outlets. There were plenty of two-prong outlets in each room, but only one grounded outlet per room, and they were in some odd places, like in the closet of the master bedroom. To get everything hooked up and plugged in, we had some nice bright orange heavy-duty extension cords snaking across the living room and down the hallway.

    I was surprised that we never blew a fuse, even when we had two space heaters going, so I checked the fuse box. I guess someone else did have some problems, because every receptacle in there was filled with a 40 amp glass fuse. I asked an electrician friend about it, and he said that the wires in the walls would burn up before those fuses popped. So I complained to the landlord.
    She dismissed me, told me I didn't know what I was talking about and that her son had put the 40 amp fuses in the and everything was fine.

    So I did a little more investigating, and figured out that three of the fuses in our box actually controlled some of the lights and outlets in the other side of the duplex. It was empty, and the landlord was showing it nearly every day, so I just unscrewed those fuses and left them out. Sure enough, half the lights didn't work, and she started promising the prospective tenants that she'd get them fixed. I screwed the fuses back in before her idiot son came over, so everything was working fine when he tested it. Then I unscrewed them again next time she tried to show the place.

    She finally broke down and hired an electrician to look at things. He wound up rewiring about half the outlets, putting in new circuit breaker boxes, pretty much redoing the whole system. Probably cost her a lot of money, but I sure slept better at night.

    --
    I am NOT a man!
    I am a free number!
    1. Re:Power outage by iggymanz · · Score: 1

      I saw a 120VAC circuit fused at 30A that vaporized a half inch off the end of a #2 phillips screwdriver. you were nice to her; I would have had the fire department look at what her son had done & she would have been in a world of doo-doo. If she owns any other buildings, you might want to talk to the tenants to ensure she didn't do the same stupid thing somewhere else - that could get alot of people killed

    2. Re:Power outage by Large+Green+Mallard · · Score: 1

      Hehe.. well done :) I'll have to remember that ;)

  133. Programmers - Need to find status of parallel port by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

    Why bother with conduit when the house you just descibed will last at most 3 years before it is unlivable due to mold? Insulation sounds good, but modern hosues are so tight already that contractors consider themselves luck to have most survive, and there is much more effictive insultaition then the minimal they are putting in that will only make the problem worse.

    Mold isn't a problem where I live; the climate is generally cold and fairly dry.

    Probably the most important things to help out are proper dryer and bathroom vents. A dryer will suck a surprising amount of household air out the vent. If the air is already humid because your house is well-sealed, the drying time for your clothes will be longer, but it still gets rid of humid air in your house.

    In my case, I want the humidity so that the house is comfortable - about 30% relative humidity. So I don't turn on the bathroom fan when I have a shower. The heating system circulates it. My dryer is electric (don't do this with gas!), so in the winter, I move the output to an air intake in the furnace. The furnace fan runs constantly, even when I'm not heating with oil or gas, and it takes the warm humid air from the dryer all through the house. Of course, I have to change the furnace filters a little more often (lint), but I get the nice smell of Bounce sheets all over the house. None of the lint seems to get to the electrostatic filters that a previous resident installed.

    My house is small - 30'x40' bungalow with a basement. Everything is well insulated, even the basement walls. Overall, I can heat the house in the dead of winter (0F with wind) using nothing more than my usual electrical loads (computers, TV, lights, internally-vented dryer, etc) and a pair of 1.5kW electric baseboard heaters in the same room as the furnace. Usually, the baseboard heaters have a short duty cycle, and the furnace fan draws their heat throughout the house. You need a sweater sometimes, but there's about half a tank of furnace oil which has been sitting unused for a couple of years now.

    I've been mulling over the idea of replacing the baseboard heaters with a stack of computers, simply because the electricity might as well be working on something productive like SETI@Home units on its way to becoming heat.

    The real problem that I have is a lack of programming skills - I'm *not* a programmer. I want to be able to start and stop SETI@Home based on the status of a line on the parallel port.

    I can easily whip up the electronics to bring high or low the Paper_Out line on a parallel port based on what the thermostat says. If the Paper_Out line is high, I want to start the SETI@Home task, and if it's low, I want to stop the SETI@Home task, leaving the processor idling (halted in a Pentium or better with power management enabled). Of course, the computers will continue to consume power in this state, but not as much. The power consumed in the idle state will simply decrease the duty cycle the processors have to do to keep the house warm.

    I can easily write a shell script which will start and stop the SETI task, but I need an executable which will return the status of the port - 1 for Paper_Out high, 0 for Paper_Out low. Would like to be able to have it run on just about any Intel hardware, because I don't know what sorts of junker machines I can score for this project. Don't care if it has to run as root. Few dependencies are good - some of these machines might have very small hard disk drives, requiring small Linux installs. No X, perhaps an older distro, don't know.

    Could do it with any conveniently readable line on either the parallel (Paper_Out, device_ready, etc) or 9-pin serial ports (CTS, etc.).

    Anyone got any ideas? Am I simply missing something I can do easily with lpd or similar?

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
  134. wiring costs, voltage reg over branch circuits by name_already_taken · · Score: 1
    It's not cheap to double wire a house, which is what you're talking about - DC wiring in addition to standard AC wiring (copper is not a cheap metal, and labor isn't cheap).

    On top of that, your intelligent power supply might produce nice clean 5V and 12V power at its output terminals, but what about at the end of a branch circuit with varying loads? Circuit voltage would go up and down as different devices use more or less power. 4V or 10V might not be enough for a particular device. You'd have to supply a higher voltage, say 20V (or hey, why not go for 120V or 220V!) and then use a voltage regulator at the points of use to ensure your devices get the voltages they really want. Some devices need both positive and negative voltages (+/-12V, etc)... All of a sudden you need a switching power supply running from your low voltage outlet (hey, wait a minute why not use power that's already AC and can be run through a cheap transformer and rectifiers to make +/- DC power?)...

    Thomas Edison tried to sell the world on DC power distribution on a large scale, and the same voltage drop issues that plagued Edison's DC power distribution system will be evident in a low voltage household DC distribution setup too.

    Sure, you could just use really fat DC power wires, but have you priced heavy gauge wire lately? It's really expensive.

    --
    Putting moderation advice in your .sig lowers your karma!
  135. my dorm room by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    while I lived on campus:

    4 20 amp outlets each side in front and back
    (total 16)

    2 eathernet ports each connected to a switch
    (needed more to have a file server)

    1 phone line
    (who needs that when everyone im's eachother)

    1 2 light rapid start wraparoud
    (magnetic balist so enjoy that 60hz flicker)

  136. UCF is a powerhouse by aestheticus · · Score: 1

    I go to UCF and have 12 outlets for our two person room. We've still had to add 2 6-outlet surge protectors tho.

  137. Re:Solving the wrong problem:Therory vs. practice by elal1862 · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Reality-corrected version
    The average geek who got picked on by everyone in high school is suddenly going to realize that in college, the stigma is gone, and finally come out of his or her shell ... but only to realize (after wasting years of desperate searching) that the damage is done, most people already have a life and won't care about yours! Completely disillusioned, the average geek returns to his trusty place behind the keyboard.

  138. Power strips are against the law. by JK+Master-Slave · · Score: 1

    I don't know about the situation in all localities, but in the City of Minneapolis, extension cords and power strips are against the law in rental housing.

    I ran into this at the last place I rented, before I went out and bought a townhome.

  139. Lack of Outlets by mishan · · Score: 1

    I have a pretty serious lack of outlets in my room.. I live in an apartment with four other people and I have to share my room with two guys; note that my room was originally built as a double, though..There are only two sets of outlets I've noticed, although there might be a third hiding somewhere. The biggest pain is that there are only two RJ-45 ports, so I have to share my internet connection with my switch. I've been burnt by this before as my roommates use Windows and have had virii on their computers that led to the ports I used being turned off and myself left without Internet access..

    Anyway, on the subject of power outlets, my desk alone is currently using three power strips (completely full), an extension cord (for my blacklight), and one of those things that screws onto an outlet to provide 6 outlets instead of 2. I haven't really had much problem with accidentally disconnecting hardware.. My only advice is to screw on that thing that provides 6 outlets otherwise you get screwed ;) I've accidentally turned off my computer before but that's due to the power cord in the back being loose.. That said, I worry about this problem all the time since one of my roommates is not a very careful person, but he hasn't caused any trouble yet. The living room area with the TV also uses its fair share of power with two power strips completely filled up with adaptors from the four game consoles attached to the TV. I hope that the new apartments my school is building will have a greater complement of power outlets and RJ-45 ports.

  140. no problems by Beowulf_Boy · · Score: 1

    I live at Shawnee State University, in Portsmouth, Ohio.

    The suites I stay in are brand spanking new, having just been built the summer before hand.

    I have...6 plugs on my side of the room, plus 2 ethernet jacks, and a phone jack. I have 2 power strips, 1 with a minifridge and a microwave plugged into it, and the other with my computer, 17" monitor, 300watt klipsch speakers (which are on high ALOT), laptop charger, and a shitload of wall worts.
    I've never blown a breaker, and if I do, I just walk over to the breaker box in my roommates room, and flip it back on.

    Our suite has a few problems though. There weren't enough coax jacks ran, just one per each side of the room in the bedrooms, and one was tossed at random into the living room. The obvious place for the TV is in the corner, yet the jack is halfway up the wall, in the center of the room.

    They also didn't put in big enough Air Conditioners, because me and my roommates have frozen ours up all the time when it was hot out, then you have to leave it off all day, to way for it to warm/cool off, or whatever it does.

  141. My situation, new and old by AlGaeN · · Score: 1

    Last year, my dorm was still on the original wiring from the late 50's when the building was built. I had one outlet by my desk and a second outlet on the other side of the room. About once a week, the girl next door to me would dry her hair and trip the breaker. It was incredibly annoying since it would usually happen early in the morning and my alarm would end up not going off. They did some electrical upgrades this summer and now I 7 outlets but they are all above my desk, so I'm forced to run surge bars (since nothing else is acceptable) over my room to power my fridge and microwave and especially my alarm clock. By hey, at least the power isn't going out every week. The dorm my sister lived in had one outlet up near the ceiling above the bed and that was it. It was pretty hard to get things set up well when you are running power strips all over the place. It makes the room look horrible. Obviously it is expensive for the electrical systems to be upgraded but it is just a matter of time before rows of power strips cause a fire and cost students their lives. Then some universities will ban any type of outlet extending device and we will be screwed...

  142. Not just Dorms by Johnathon_Dough · · Score: 1
    i live in a house that was built in the early 40's, and have been recently running into both outlet and good power issues.

    Our Living room has two seperate power outlets. This is used to run the following:
    3 Lamps
    TV
    Receiver
    Pre-Amp
    Record Player
    Cd Player
    Sub Woofer
    VCR
    DVD
    Tivo
    Sattleite box
    PlayStation
    and the girfriend INSISTS on x-mas lights...year round.
    We haven't put up the tree yet either.

    The problem I have seen is that since the power system in the house is so old, I am having to make either or choices in my usage. Want to listen to music and play the PlayStation? No Problem, but, someone walks in the room and turns on a lamp, and you can actually see every thing flicker. At this point I am terrified that the electronics industry is going to come up with the next device I must have, and I am going to have to give something up.

    Also, the problem carries through to the rest of the house. I am constanly having to check to see what the GF is doing before I go in the basement and use any power tools (different circuit)

    After talking to an electrician friend, my only solution apparently is to re-wire over half the house with a more robust system.

    Can't afford that.

    But, on the plus side, it does mean that we are getting better and not leaving un-necessary things on.

    --
    If you are one in a million, then there are six thousand people who are just like you.
  143. Re:I'm a University of Wisconsin Madison student.. by Beowulf_Boy · · Score: 4, Insightful

    thats why you buy a router, use the MAC address on it from your computer, and plug in as many damned machines as you wish.

    Yeah, I hate my schools network policy too.

  144. Extension cords and current limits by rcw-home · · Score: 2, Informative
    Can you really?

    A 13 amp extension cord is usually 16-gauge, sometimes 14-gauge for the longer ones.

    19 amps running through 16-gauge wire (4.094 ohms per 1000') converts about 1.48 watts per foot to heat.

    You'd have to run this extension cord through some amazingly perfect thermal insulation (carpeting won't do it) before anything could get to flashpoint.

    Standard amperage limits are based off acceptable voltage drops, not heating.

    1. Re:Extension cords and current limits by Dun+Malg · · Score: 2, Interesting
      Standard amperage limits are based off acceptable voltage drops, not heating.

      True. I was leaning more towards a point based on susceptibility to damage of cheaper cords; I've never seen a 12ga extension short out from being closed in a door. I have, however, seen cheap extension cords heat up enough soften the insulation. Stick it under a metal table leg and an extension cord with soft insulation doesn't HAVE to heat up to flashpoint to cause a fire. Besides, citing what the gauge of a cheap cord should be doesn't mean much if the conductors are undersized for their stated rating. Optimal conditions are great for electrical theory, but in the field you sometimes can't even trust your wiggy or your multimeter.

      --
      If a job's not worth doing, it's not worth doing right.
  145. Location, Location, Electrocution by Flwyd · · Score: 1

    I've lived in 7 different rooms at the University of Colorado. I've never had a problem with the amount of power -- we have an on-campus power plant with lines under ground, so we even keep power during town-wide blackouts. The problem is that the architects (in the '30s-'60s, mind) thought the best places for outlets are natural places to put dressers. (Hmmm. Electrical dressers. There's a concept!)

    On several occasions I've had power strips suspended in the air, plugged into an inconvenient outlet on one end and connected to a hopelessly short lamp cord at the other.

    --
    Ceci n'est pas une signature.
  146. Re:I'm a University of Wisconsin Madison student.. by JK+Master-Slave · · Score: 1

    You mean, of course, that they don't let you plug more than one NAT router into the network, correct?

  147. Those Pesky Ungrounded Outlets in Bathrooms by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 4, Informative

    In my first dorm there were 5 outlets, 1 of which was ungrounded (above a mirror). We were allowed hair dryers,

    Heh... Note that those ungrounded outlets built into bathroom light fixtures are normally for electric razors only.

    What's different about them?

    When they say "RAZOR ONLY" beside the outlet, the outlet is usually on a small 1:1 power transformer. It's called an isolation transformer, and in those applications, they're usually only built to handle something under about 50W. Don't plug a hair dryer into it!

    What does it do?

    Ordinary outlets have a "hot" side and a neutral side. The neutral side is tied directly to ground at the distribution transformer and usually (depends on local electrical codes) at the fuse box. The hot side is connected to a winding on the distribution transformer which is putting out 120V with respect to ground. The power is then referenced to ground - usually to a cold water pipe which comes directly into the building through the earth.

    Outlets also have a wide blade and a narrow blade. The wide blade is supposed to be connected to neutral, the narrow blade is supposed to be connected to hot.

    Theoretically, you should be able to touch the wide prong and the ground (round prong) at the same time without getting a shock. The whole point of this is to allow you to accidentally touch the large part of a light socket base without getting a shock. Back in the day, lots of radios and TV sets used a "hot chassis" which was tied directly to one side of the power line - this should have been the neutral. (Most of them also predate polarized power cords, so depending on which way you had it plugged in, you had a 50% chance of the chassis being at 120V or neutral with respect to ground. Be careful!)

    The isolation transformer removes that reference to ground, the potential difference exists only between the prongs of the outlet. This is good if you accidentally drop your electric razor into a sink full of water, because there will be no ground current through you - the only current would be from one wet point within the razor to another wet point within the razor.

    Isolation transformers are a very important safety feature. Personally, I like them better than ground fault interruptors. The biggest problem with isolation transformers is that making one which will handle the current of a hair dryer or other large (power-wise) appliance requires a lot of heavy iron laminates and copper (expensive).

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
    1. Re:Those Pesky Ungrounded Outlets in Bathrooms by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

      " The wide blade is supposed to be connected to neutral, the narrow blade is supposed to be connected to hot."

      then wouldn't you only get 1/2 phase?

    2. Re:Those Pesky Ungrounded Outlets in Bathrooms by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 2, Informative

      " The wide blade is supposed to be connected to neutral, the narrow blade is supposed to be connected to hot."
      then wouldn't you only get 1/2 phase?

      Nope.

      Neutral is tied to ground, it serves as a reference point. The hot side alternates between +120V and -120V with respect to neutral.

      It's like the body in your car - it's "ground", and the +12V from the battery is referenced to it. In the case of a car, it's not for safety reasons, but for convenience - to power a light, all you need to do is run one wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the light, and then connect the light's other terminal to the body.

      If you were to reverse the battery in your car (connect the positive terminal to ground), then the -12V would be referenced to ground. Current would still flow quite happily - although it would destroy all electronic devices in your car, exactly the same as accidentally putting the batteries into your Walkman backwards.

      On ships, they don't reference 120V AC power to ground, they reference it to the center tap of the distribution transformer. In other words, with respect to ground (ie. connecting your Fluke 77 DMM to the ship's steel), you have +60V and -60V at each blade during one half of the cycle, then -60V and +60V at each blade during the other half of the cycle. Of course, between the blades, the difference is still 120V. This system is used on ships because rather than having a 50% chance of a potentially lethal shock if you accidentally touch a broken wire, you have a 100% chance of a significantly less dangerous shock. In a moist environment, this is a good idea.

      Note also for the sake of clarity that I've oversimplified a few things - RMS voltages from wall sockets, charging system voltages in cars tend to be around 13.8V, etc.

      --
      Fire and Meat. Yummy.
    3. Re:Those Pesky Ungrounded Outlets in Bathrooms by CharlieG · · Score: 1

      Also the fact that a lot of ships have 400hz running around (think large grey ships), and a lot of 3 phase DELTA instead of 3 phase WYE

      Memories of building power AC and DC power supplies for said large grey ships

      --
      -- 73 de KG2V For the Children - RKBA! "You are what you do when it counts" - the Masso
    4. Re:Those Pesky Ungrounded Outlets in Bathrooms by Mr+Z · · Score: 1

      You get a full 360 degrees of sine wave on the hot side. It's "1 phase" current.

      If you look at the two outputs of the isolation transformer, you'll see two sine waves, 180 degrees apart, at half the magnitude. If you happen to tie one of the sides to ground, you'll get the same situation as the grounded outlet -- 1 phase at full magnitude.

      In the end, it's only the potential difference between the two prongs that matters to the appliance.

      --Joe
    5. Re:Those Pesky Ungrounded Outlets in Bathrooms by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

      Also the fact that a lot of ships have 400hz running around (think large grey ships)

      Heh... Yeah. Just think of the savings we'd have if the line frequency was higher... smaller transformers, for one.

      Personally, would love to see an AC frequency at 880Hz. The harmonics would be musical notes so they'd be less intrusive when they get into audio systems.

      Of course, phase control at power plants would become that much more of a challenge due to the greater frequency...

      --
      Fire and Meat. Yummy.
    6. Re:Those Pesky Ungrounded Outlets in Bathrooms by WhiteDragon · · Score: 1

      I was living in this older house with a couple of friends for a few months, and noticed that when I plugged in my power strip (Tripp-lite iso-tel (which is a mighty fine power strip, btw)) and the site wiring fault light lit up. I borrowed a nice fluke meter from my boss at work, and checked out the voltages. I had 120 between hot and neutral, so far so good. I checked between hot and ground, and only had 85. I checked between ground and neutral, and had 35 volts. Alarm bells started going off in my head, and I started investigating. Come to find out, the cable tv provider (Tele-Cable/TCI/ATT/@home/Mediacom) had disconnected the house's grounding rod (which was just a piece of copper stuck in the dirt) from the electrical box to use as their own ground for the cable hookup. All that 35 volts to neutral was apparently coming through their box. Since the house was a rental, I didn't mess with it, just plugged in my ups and hooked up all my computers etc to the ups. This worked, except the ups was continuously making a 60Hz square wave type buzzing sound.

      --
      Did you mount a military-grade, variable-focus MASER on an unlicensed artificial intelligence?
  148. my house by pixitha · · Score: 1

    my living room has 22 power outlets... my bedroom has 6 and its a tiny ass room! the people that built this house were insane...

    --
    "an eye for an eye only makes the whole world blind"
  149. Maybe they shouldn't bring so much sh*t by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 1, Insightful

    Colleges could always make the argument that providing infinite numbers of amps and outlets raises their costs and hence tuition, and suggest that students leave some of the crap at home...and perhaps even coordinate between roommates so there's no dupes. A computer monitor and a TV card can replace the TV completely, and for a small dorm room a decent set of PC speakers can replace the stereo with no trouble.

  150. I really can't imagine by Elfan · · Score: 1

    I can't imagine having that much shit. I mean you need a computer, a clock, a light, and maybe some chargers for razors or cell phones. The computer takes care of any form of electronic entertainment needed, and you are in college so you shoudn't need that much.

  151. CNN Dorm Power article by tkajstura · · Score: 0, Redundant

    Just in time for our discussion... CNN releases this article on increasing power needs of students in college. Good quick read related to this thread.

  152. daisychain by davebarz · · Score: 1

    Easy solution: Daisy chain.

  153. Re:Programmers - Need to find status of parallel p by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    This might help you get started but the full coffee maker howto is what you want to look for.

    http://linuxselfhelp.com/HOWTO/mini/Coffee.html

  154. Ahh Australian power :) by Centauris · · Score: 1

    After spending about a year in California, I have come to the conclusion that a lot of things that Americans do re: electricity are pretty dangerous, and would be downright illegal in Australia. I've noticed in several places people using "grounding adapters" as a way to get around that pesky grounding pin not quite fitting in that ancient 2-pin socket. Not to mention the adapter states "connect tab to grounded screw", i.e. use them on a wall plate with a grounded box (yeah right - how often does that happen?). Also, those extension cords with wires the thickness of my clock radio with the three outlets on the end - in my opinion - VERY dangerous, and they're just itching to have "grounding adapters" used with them. While the houses I have been in had plenty of outlets (3-4 duplex outlets per room), the internal wiring and circuits were simply too small. 2 bedroom house had 3 15 Amp circuits, one for the fridge, microwave, washer and dryer, another for 2 bedrooms, the bathroom and the light circuits, and the other for the outdoor receptacle, the lounge room (tv, cable box, dvd, 3-4 floor lamps, heater). Performing daily chores is an exercise in balancing circuits, let's see. I can't do the washing if the fridge is going to be running, so, turn the fridge thermo right up, do the washing, do the drying (stop both if you need to microwave something), then turn the thermostat in the fridge back to it's normal chill level. Otherwise, expect circuits to trip. In Australia we commonly use 3-4 20A, 240V/50Hz circuits in most houses for power, 2x 10A (sometimes 16A) circuits for lights and ceiling fans, dedicated 20A circuits for air conditioners, 32A circuits for electric stoves and ovens, and 20A circuits for fridges. Really old houses will use 16A power circuits and 8A light circuits, but it still provides more power (at 240V, not 220) than most relatively new installations in the US. A few shockers: http://deschutes.no-ip.com/usapower.jpg Quality :) http://deschutes.no-ip.com/usapower2.jpg

    1. Re:Ahh Australian power :) by Brianwa · · Score: 1

      Wow... Look at that awesome shitch in the first picture. I noticed the color scheme is just like my house, and I seem to remember that we had an upgrade of our electrical system a long while ago... I will start looking for something like that ;) I do agree that older houses seem to have bad electrical systems, probably mostly in America. It is somewhat worrying when all the lights dim when the monitor/TV turns on...

    2. Re:Ahh Australian power :) by afroborg · · Score: 0

      It gets worse than just "grounding adaptors"... I live in New Zealand. Our company ships products to the States, and it has recently come to our attention that the official statistics have the number of american homes without an earth connection at around 20%.

      I don't know about you but that scares me more than a little.

      --
      my sig could kick your sig's arse...
    3. Re:Ahh Australian power :) by Centauris · · Score: 1

      Yeah, it's pretty scary. What's more - they don't really care (or seem to). Grouding is merely an afterthought. I believe the AU/NZ outlet type (the arrow shape) is a lot safer than the "neutral blade" slot of american outlets. Also, I think that 20% without ground seems a bit low. It's probably higher than that. I laugh at those people who plug surge protection strips into those outlets.... One other thing: the wiring itself - the hot wire is.. BLACK?? The neutral is white. Seems kinda counter-intuitive, especially in a country where any hillbilly can do and often does their own wiring (local codes permitting). Australian (and probably new zealand) code is ACTIVE (hot) = RED/BROWN, NEUTRAL = black/blue, EARTH= Green/Green+Yellow. Those photos were taken in Escondido, CA. First photo was the switch panel of an old 40A knob-and-tube service installed circa 1925 that had some romex cable installed at a later date. Second shot was of a house build after WW2 (probably early 50s) and was slightly better, but not by much. Not a single grounded outlet in either house.

    4. Re:Ahh Australian power :) by Brianwa · · Score: 1

      I'm sorry, I was up late last night... I do agree that many electrical systems are unsafe, and far too many people simply don't care.

  155. Outlets can support a lot of tech equipment by Kris_J · · Score: 1
    A standard electric blow heater on high uses 2400W of power, at least here in Australia it does. That's 10A at 240V. That's what every standard wall outlet is rated to in Australia. Every peice of AV, computer and video game equipment I have, together, would be pushed to add up to 2400W. Sure, power boards can be annoying and messy, but you're not going to be knocking anything out just by using your CD burner.

    Worry about morons using two heaters off the same power board first.

  156. My dorm room by Xeo2 · · Score: 1

    I got to Olin College of Engineering, and our dorms are pretty well outfitted. There are two major wall panels in the room (it's a double). Each one has 2 fiber ports, 4 Cat6 ports, 1 coax cable TV and 4 power outlets. Even so, I have a power strip hoooked up.

    I think people are going to fill whatever capacity they're given...

    --
    ___ alwaysBETA.com - Hey, you've got nothing better to do.
  157. No Grounds! by LinuxThis · · Score: 1, Interesting

    Yea so much for not having enough outlets, try having half the outlets in your dorm not having ground plugs (a random half might I add). Tech service guys distribute those plugs that have a fake ground that you're supposed to hook up with a wire to a real ground (but who does?). Its always nice to have your tv, computer, dvd, ps2, dreamcast, and stero on a strip that doesnt really have a ground. And the fun with our network is, they block all traffic between local machines due to 'security' and 'virus' concerns. Sucks that to play lan games we have to run our own network cables between dorm rooms!

  158. Next on Slashdot... by ksemlerK · · Score: 0, Flamebait

    What do you do when you run out of gas at when driving down the highway? Do you walk, or do you just sit there?

  159. Heh... by darkpurpleblob · · Score: 1

    We've recently had an extra team move downstairs to our floor at work, and we've had the circuit trip twice now because the higher load. The floor is getting upgraded from a one phase to a three phase supply this weekend. IIRC, the toaster was the culprit of the blackouts as it drew 8 amps or so and pushed the circuit past its limit!

  160. Postsmart Apartments by eabell · · Score: 2, Interesting

    Post Properties are big when I live in Atlanta. I admit, when I was moving the lure of their PostSmart apartments was fairly high.

    Basically, their new apartments are built wired to support home networking (wired), surround sound, and multiple phone lines. The outlets, however, were fairly ugly -- huge wall units like you'd see in a business. But there were network drops in every room and plenty of outlets and, most appealing to me, audio wires for surround sound and multiple speakers. I hate wiring for surround sound in the living room every time I change apartments. Here, you just plugged into the wall behind the TV, and then the wires came out the other side of the room and even on the patio.

    Ultimately, despite the high geek factor, I didn't go with the properties with this feature. The rent was pretty steep compared to what I could get elsewhere, and wireless was already on the scene so I figured the networking wouldn't be too crucial. I'm also wondering if they opened the electrical system to support such a wired household. Hrm. I haven't heard of any burning down lately, I suppose...

  161. Clemson on-campus apartments by St.+Arbirix · · Score: 1

    Our 4 person, 2 bedroom apartment is barely larger than three dorm rooms but it's new and therefor the power outlets were not spared at all.

    Living room / kitchen: 16 power outlets, 2 tv jacks, 2 network connections, and 12 phone jacks.

    Each bedroom: 8 power outlets, 2 tv jacks, 2 network connections, and 4 phone jacks.

    Having 36 power outlets (4 in bathroom) and 12 phone lines at our disposal is really nice. Having only 6 network connections with all those wall plugs makes it a sin.

    --
    Direct away from face when opening.
  162. Enough power? How about modern wiring? by beaverfever · · Score: 1

    Most of the apartments I ever looked at in San Francisco lacked grounded outlets - this was something I paid attention to. Luckily I ended up living in a recently renovated house which had a room (office) rewired specifically to be computer-friendly. It could have used one or two more outlets, and it was only one room, but I appreciated it nonetheless.

  163. Plenty of outlets... by DennyK · · Score: 1

    My apartment has plenty of outlets (5 in the bedroom alone), and a sound electrical system, but the main issue I notice is with the placement of sockets. Of those five outlets in the bedroom, three are unused, and one is just used for my DSL modem (since it's next to the phone jack). The other one gets to hold all of my primary computer equipment. Out in the living room, one socket has a couple lamps and a cordless phone on it. The other has a TV, VCR, DVD player/home theater system, stereo, computer system, three videogame consoles, and (now) a Christmas tree plugged into it. The problem is that all the electronic stuff gets put in the same part of the room. It'd be nice to have an extra outlet or two along that wall in these rooms...

    DennyK

  164. my story by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    we got extension cords runnin into our rooms from the kitchen circuit cause we overloaded our bedroom and becareful when turning on 19" crt's cause it cut's both rooms off hehe

  165. gray water by geekoid · · Score: 1

    Wow, what a good idea. It pisses me off to no-end that this didn't occur to me on my own.

    --
    The Kruger Dunning explains most post on /. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
  166. Change to 240Volts by unic1 · · Score: 1

    Iv'e always wondered why you yanks use 120V. In Aus we have 240V 10amp sockets as standard. A lot more power 2500Watt, less current, wire costs and less fire hazzard.

    --
    Red eye's at night, Hackers delight. Red eye's in the morning, Professors Warning.
  167. Rewire to 240 volts by unic1 · · Score: 1

    Iv'e always wondered why you yanks use 120V. In Aus we have 240V 10amp sockets as standard. A lot more power 2400Watt, less current, wire costs and less fire hazzard.

    --
    Red eye's at night, Hackers delight. Red eye's in the morning, Professors Warning.
  168. Crazy power requirements by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    I have what I think may be a unique situation, or at least close to it:

    My studio is in our basement (nothing unusual about that I suppose). I've got a Mac and a PC, each with a CRT and the usual crop of peripherals. Then there's a fair amount of audio gear -- a 120-watt and 80-watt amp, an electric piano, a synth module, a small mixer, and a few other bits. And of course, a TV in case I get stir crazy with no windows (that is to say, glass-covered holes in the walls -- Windows XP doesn't do much to help with the blues).

    Then throw in a 1500-watt space heater which has to run at least at the lowest setting at all times, since I live in Boston, and in the winter, without the heater, the temperature in the basement gets down to around freezing.

    Now, all that is doable until the wife comes down to DO THE LAUNDRY. That's right -- there's a washer and dryer right near my desk. Yes, I know there are a million probably serious dangers lurking around this setup, but of most immediate concern to me is the fact that I can't work while the dryer is running -- combined with everything else, it usually pushes the circuit over the edge.

    It's a bummer...

  169. Re:Programmers - Need to find status of parallel p by joggle · · Score: 1

    Try the ACE classes. It will work on any platform, even embeded ones (at least with the serial port). (the classes you would be interested in are ACE_DEV_IO and ACE_DEV_Connector).

  170. Re:Programmers - Need to find status of parallel p by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

    This might help you get started but the full coffee maker howto is what you want to look for.
    http://linuxselfhelp.com/HOWTO/mini/Coffee.html

    Thanks; I checked it out, but both the mini and full HOWTO seem to have exactly the same text.

    They both tell me how to make the computer control a device.

    I want the device to control the computer!

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
  171. Not in older homes... by cabingirl · · Score: 1
    My last apartment was in a early 20th century duplex with some of the original loop wiring. We had 2 circuits for an entire floor of the house. There was only one outlet in each room. How we didn't burn down the place I'll never know. My favorite moment was blowing a fuse while the air conditioner was running merely by opening the refrigerator door and having the fridge light come on. Oh, and did I mention that none of the outlets were grounded?

    But, yea, we used 10-outlet power strips anyway.

    --
    I could kill you, sure, but I could only make you cry with these words
  172. Not bad ideas by Tau+Zero · · Score: 1
    Two problems I'd have with a 48 VDC system:
    1. Storage batteries are not widely available in 48 VDC, so battery backup becomes a lot more expensive (a 12 VDC system can use any old deep-cycle battery, which is what I got to re-power my UPS when its gel cells died).
    2. Linear regulation for low-power, low-cost devices becomes far less efficient; the alternative is to make the cheapest power supply a lot more expensive.
    Aside from that there is no strong reason to prefer either voltage for running low-power devices. As for powering the computer off an external PS which also runs outside peripherals, I think that the needs of the computer vary so much between types of units that a one-size-fits-all power brick would cause too many problems with the tradeoff between capacity and expense. The computer is a big enough load to merit its own PS (though it might share the backup battery with the peripheral brick).
    --
    Time is Nature's way of keeping everything from happening at once... the bitch.
  173. No Holes! by AndyCanfield · · Score: 2, Informative

    Standard construction in Thailand, where I live, has one [1] two[2]-holed electrical outlet per room, right next to the light switch by the door. Lots and lots of extension cords. In our bedroom the previous tenant had an air conditioner; we spliced the leftover power wires to an extension cord to create an outlet on that side of the room. Unless you have an electrician install the wiring, and watch him carefully, nothing is grounded, even if it's got three holes.

  174. Enough? by lelnet · · Score: 2, Informative

    Well, mine does have _enough_ of them...but they're almost all _on the wrong side_. (The side with lots of outlets, including the cable TV feed and all the phone jacks, is the one which hosts the sofa and the lamps, while the one with all the computer and A/V hardware that so desperately wants to be fed power and bits has a measly two wall plates for power. Due to the odd geometry of the place, reversing the furniture arrangement would make it impossible to walk.)

    I solve it by running long cables across the room, held above head height by wrapping them around the rafters (it's a loft).

  175. re: enough electrical outlets ... by Anonymous Coward · · Score: 0

    When I was a [fulltime] student (5 years ago) my room in halls of residence had a single socket. But that's ok because the only thing I had to plug in was a desk lamp.

    Why on earth does anyone need, like, 5 computers and a fridge in their bedroom?

    I used the purpose built computing facilities (24hr access, nice and warm in winter too!) and the communal "kitchens".

    Set the computers up at home and use ssh if you must.

    To me this questions is like this: "I've got 15 cars, I'm having trouble garaging all the porsches and the ferrari, how can I get my university to pay my garaging bills?"

    Anyway, end of rant.

  176. Especially for College Students by bill_mcgonigle · · Score: 1

    Take it from a guy who had far too much distracting crap in his dorm room, get rid of everything. Get a laptop and a telephone and leave everything else home. No TV, no stereo, no CD's, no DVD, no Playstation, no microwave, no fridge. They're all a waste of time and space in the end, and you have to move them many times up and down several flights of stairs.

    Keep the posters down to a minimum and bring enough clothes for 2 weeks, 1 casual dress outfit and maybe a suit if you're going to go to formals.

    Go to the mess hall, it's really faster than cooking. Study in the library and learn to just sleep in your dorm room. You're there to learn and get grades, not to build a temple to Jim Morrison.

    --
    My God, it's Full of Source!
    OUTSIDE_IP=$(dig +short my.ip @outsideip.net)
  177. I'd like a solution too please by BestNicksRTaken · · Score: 1

    I have 6-way power strips coming from every outlet in my apartment, and of those, I think one socket is free.

    I need one more coax outlet in my apartment (the one I have is already split between cable modem and 2 TV's) and could even do with another telephone socket.

    Some patch panels would be nice too, so that the entire bottom half of my apartment doesn't have to be on wireless.

    Oh and can someone fix the quality of the wiring so that my X10 devices work reliably?

    I guess I really need to buy my own house and have the electricians in....

    --
    #include <sig.h>
  178. Christmas lights etc by glassesmonkey · · Score: 1

    I saw this on the local news just yesterday. How annoying this whole discussion is.. The recommendation was to only use the available sockets = safe?! The news was saying don't put more than 6 sockets in a six socket power-strip. Now /.'ers are saying "don't chain power-strips" and "I only have two free sockets in my room".

    It is very simple for geeks to do all the necessary computations involved here..
    Power(W) = Volt(V) * Current(A)
    RMS is not same as AC is not the same as DC, but power ratings pretty much are
    In the dorms, avoid halogen lamps and large CRTs (especially turning on and off)
    Christmas lights (indoor-type) use very little wattage and you can chain tons of them together.
    Your circuit breaker in a modern building WILL trip before you ever have a problem, so use as many power-strips until the power goes out.

  179. W vs. VA? by g0at · · Score: 1

    Perhaps this is an appropriate discussion in which to ask: Can somebody explain the difference between Watts and Volt-Amps?

    (You give the example of a 400 W computer running on 120 VAC consuming a max of 3.33 A. While your math makes sense to me, UPS manufacturers always rate their gear in VA instead of W. Why?)

    1. Re:W vs. VA? by darco · · Score: 1

      When a UPS refers to a "VoltAmp", they are referring to it's surge-load. Bizarre and confusing, because a watt is defined as a volt amp. They really should be the same thing.

      But yeah, the VoltAmps are the surge-load, sustainable only for a short period of time(ie: time enough to spin up motors, charge up the electron guns, etc). Whenever they say "watts", they are talking about the sustained-load. I have two UPSs, and both list the load capacity in VoltAmps and Watts--and the numbers are different.

      As a general rule of thumb, the sustainable-load is 80% of the surge-load.

      BTW: Random note, a computer almost never draws the full watts listed on the power supply.

      --
      — darco
    2. Re:W vs. VA? by g0at · · Score: 1

      Does this have something to do with the fact that the 120 VAC we get from the wall is measured RMS? So presumably at the peak of the 60 Hz sine wave, which would be +/- 170 V, the load would be instantaneously greater?

      Or am I demonstrating the dangers inherent in having an incomplete understanding of a subject and trying to talk about it. ;)

      -b

    3. Re:W vs. VA? by darco · · Score: 1

      Naa... Good try though. ;)

      Most devices take more power to start them up than it takes to run them. The VA rating simply reflects this.

      A while back I had the same questions as you and I googled around and found a really good page that explained it all. Unfortunately, it seems to escape me at the moment.

      This article seems to come pretty close, although it beats around the bush a bit.

      --
      — darco
    4. Re:W vs. VA? by g0at · · Score: 1

      Thanks for the link.

      Interesting, but he sure does beat around the bush. Essentially, it seems that he is trying to say the power factor is simply a measure of efficiency of the transformer. Is that true? That the UPS may consume 650 W but only deliver 410 W?

      -ben

    5. Re:W vs. VA? by darco · · Score: 1

      Yeah that is true for the most part. But it's not just the transformer, the capacitors also influence the power factor.

      *remembers back to highschool physics*

      In alternating current, you have both the voltage AND the current oscillating. In the most ideal situation, the voltage and current are in sync, giving you a power factor of 1. However, when you introduce something like a transformer or a capacitor into the circuit(to, for example, increase the voltage), the current and voltage get out of sync. You can correct for this by using the correct capacitor.

      A power factor of 0.5 implies that they are not correcting the phase-shift of the voltage&current after the transformer. This is probably because (from what I understand) it would be prohibitively expensive(we are talking about a very large capacitor). However, the power company uses them routinely to improve their power factors, which saves them thousands of dollars in energy costs. Some power companies will even print the power factor on the bill. (It changes depending on various conditions such as temperature. As it gets hotter, the power lines expand, thus changing the power factor. Power companies compensate for this by making slight adjustments to the power frequency, but I digress)

      So you end up loosing around %30 of your power to heat on your UPS. With UPS's (and inverters) so cheap these days, just remember that you get what you pay for. If you want a UPS with a better power factor (and, thus, longer battery time and increased ability to handle large loads), you'll have to shell out that extra money for the components to do that.

      Honestly, it's not that big of a deal that it is so inefficient, because it is going to be used so infrequently anyway. If you used that inverter all the time, then you might have a problem. :)

      Unfortunately he didn't talk much about Volt-Amps Vs. Watts, which is what you asked... I'm sure if you google around enough you'll find out more.

      --
      — darco
    6. Re:W vs. VA? by g0at · · Score: 1

      Cool. Well, thanks for taking the time to expound on this, I've learned something. :)

      -b

  180. Re:Programmers - Need to find status of parallel p by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

    Try the ACE classes. It will work on any platform, even embeded ones (at least with the serial port). (the classes you would be interested in are ACE_DEV_IO and ACE_DEV_Connector).

    Thanks for the heads-up, but this is way beyond me. I've looked at the header files doxygen documentation, but I still can't see how to integrate it into something like:

    #include "$EVERYTHING_SO_THAT_gcc_SHUTS_UP"
    void main() {
    if (ttyS0.flags("CTS")){
    cout << "1";
    } else {
    cout << "0";
    }
    }

    Heh... I don't know much about programming, besides what I've read in K&R and the courses I had to take in university. And when I have to code, my style is so much brute force and ignorance that Microsoft keeps on trying to hire me to join the Outlook team.

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
  181. Re:Programmers - Need to find status of parallel p by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

    Found it! A great little program which will report the status of pins on serial ports. http://www.linuxquestions.org/questions/history/86 223

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
  182. Blue Collar != Stupid by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

    My father, an electrical engineer, was surprised when I showed him my electrician's reference book containing formulas for things like load balancing. He thought, for big jobs, electricians worked off pre-made plans drawn up by someone "educated" who did the calculations for them.

    Heheh... must have blown him away to learn that you can do almost all AC circuit analysis without having to take the square root of a negative number even once... and still have the circuit work!

    I imagine many PhDs think carpenters don't know anything about structural engineering, or that auto mechanics are totally ignorant of mechanical engineering. Ivory-tower arrogance can sometimes work just like thick-headed stupidity.

    I agree completely. Some of the engineers I've worked with have had the same mentality. One in particular, a very recent top-of-his-class graduate from a respectable mechanical engineering school, had a particular need to try to spoon-feed a machine shop full of guys who'd already had a decade of experience before he was born.

    While the guy I'm thinking about is a particularly stellar example, to a lesser extent, I know lots of people from university whose career choices were made because, "Well, the guidance counsellor said that I was good at math and physics, so I should do engineering".

    These are people who never played with Lego, and didn't ask for tools for Chrismakkah. To me, that's a more important engineering prerequisite than calculus, since calculus can be learned; mechanical/electrical/etc aptitude simply cannot.

    Engineering is a tough course. I know first-hand. But it doesn't make you more intelligent, or more creative - education cannot do that (if anything, education seems to stifle creativity - look at PhDs). All it does is teach you a lot of stuff, show you a new way of thinking about problems, and work you nearly to death.

    Lots of the smartest guys I've known are the blue-collar guys who build, install and service the stuff I design. We hang around together, drinking beer, shooting the shit, and working on each others' vehicles. I like hanging around on the floor, working alongside them, learning from their experience, and I like when they hang around in my office, looking over my shoulder and trying to understand a pile of math or seeing OrCAD on my monitor. The janitor hated all the oily bootprints on my carpet, so I picked up a runner.

    I expect them to tell me when they think a design or procedure can be improved. They help me make a product more reliable, more durable, cheaper to assemble or easier to fix.

    For the most part, a good (wo)man with relevent skills (electrician or technician, machinist, structural ironworker, etc.) can do by eyeball ("Yup, that'll hold") most of the work of an engineer.

    When surrounded by good people, the work of the engineer is to optimize and certify the design through careful mathematical analysis. And a good engineer will bridge the gap between white-collar management types and the blue-collar guys who actually build the company's products.

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.
  183. Want silent PCs? Stick 'em in an old fridge. by BigBlockMopar · · Score: 1

    It's called The Library. Not only are there desks there, but you don't have to block out the ambient noise of three idling computers in an enclosed concrete 10' by 8' space.

    Meant to do this for a while, but never got around to it.

    I have a great old 1950s Quik-Frez fridge which I updated a long time ago with a new (R-134) Amana compressor, new insulation, homebuilt electronic thermostat, little bit of Bondo to fill the dents, and a fresh coat of paint. Looks brand new, works even better.

    The problem is, as much as I love it, I can never get around to defrosting it (no way to easily add defrost heaters to the ice box). And it's a little small for food and stuff.

    The sound of my computers drives me insane, but I'm not going to go to the silent PC trouble, or water cooling, etc. So what I've been meaning to do is put a small hole for wires in the bottom of the fridge and install the computers inside it. With the door closed, it would be silent (I stuck a power supply connected to a pair of old Seagate ST-225 5.25" hard disks inside to try). The thermostat could be set to keep the interior about 50F, or turned off altogether if the interior temperature doesn't get out of hand.

    The only real problem is the accessibilty of the backs of the machines for cables and stuff.

    It's not an issue right now, though. Most of my computers now live in a laundry/furnace room on the other side of a wall from my monitor and keyboard, so hopefully this will give someone an idea of what to do with a cool old fridge.

    --
    Fire and Meat. Yummy.